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Chapitre 4 Chapitre 9
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Other documents randomly have
different content
the fabrication, and again when we were seeking the spiritual
meaning of the design; by these two widely different lines of
evidence we were led severally and independently to infer a British
rather than a foreign origin for the Figure[29].
This inference was further confirmed by a third evidential process,
arising out of the sympathy of meaning which appears to unite the
enamelled Figure with the engraved device upon its back-plate. This
led us to question the long-established doctrine of duality of origin
which rested upon the authority of Sir Francis Palgrave, and to infer
that the whole composition of the Jewel had been projected and
devised by a single mind.
Finally, we found reason to think that all these features harmonized
well with the mind and character of a person with whose name the
Jewel is already connected by the Epigraph; and if anything was yet
wanting to complete the identification of that person, it seems to be
supplied by certain traces of inward affinity between the symbolism
of the Jewel and that of the epilogue to the translation of the
Pastoral Care, one of the surest monuments of the mind of king
Alfred.
The western boundary of Wessex had for centuries been the Great
Wood of which the ancient name still survives as a specific element
in the historic designation of Frome Selwood.
This great wood was also called Wealwudu, a very natural and
appropriate name, because it had long been the barrier between the
Saxon and the Welsh populations. Here lies the most fitting scene for
the story of Denewulf. In the time when the king was a fugitive, he
found this man keeping swine in the forest, and he discovered in him
a great natural capacity and aptness for good, and after his return to
power he educated Denewulf, and made him bishop of Winchester.
This story does not run on all fours, because according to the best
authorities Denewulf became bishop of Winchester in 879, and if he
was keeping swine in 878, being already of mature age, it smacks
rather of hagiology than of history. But it may be that the marvel has
been enhanced in transmission; or if we choose the lowest estimate
and call it mere fiction, still it is worth while observing what manner
of stories were invented about king Alfred.
Behind this barrier the Danes had never been able to get a footing.
As if aware how greatly this was needed for the success of their
designs upon Wessex, they had made several attempts. Two great
efforts which imply this aim were made at the end of the reign of
Ecgberht. The force of thirty-five ships which that king repelled at
Charmouth, on the coast of Dorset, seems to indicate something
more than merely a plundering incursion.
In 835, a great naval armament (micel sciphere) came to the
Cornish coast and were joined by the West Welsh, and they
gathered in force at Hingston Down, where they probably intended
to fortify themselves; when Ecgberht appeared with an army, and
dispersed them.
The next recorded attempt of the kind was in the year 845, in the
reign of Æthelwulf, when the Wicengas entered the mouth of the
Parret, and were met by the posse comitatus of the two shires,
Somerset and Dorset, under their two ealdormen, and Alhstan the
warlike bishop of Sherborne.
Only in the very last year (877) their land-force had, by a perfidious
surprize, seized Exeter, acting in concert with a fleet of one hundred
and twenty ships, which were to sail up the Exe and co-operate with
them—but they were wrecked in a storm off Swanage [30]. This
disaster, combined with the promptitude of the king in assault, had
compelled them to capitulate, and had dislodged them from Exeter.
Of the same nature and motive was the attempt of this spring on the
coast of Devon at a place which Asser calls Cynwit, with a force of
twenty-three ships, which were wintering on the opposite coast of
the Severn Sea. The repulse was complete and the blow decisive,
but the name of the English leader is not given by the contemporary
annalist. A hundred and twenty years later, Ethelwerd calls him Odda
the ealdorman of Devonshire. The reticence of the Chronicle
suggests that this achievement was conducted by Alfred while he
was keeping in the background, lest the place of his retreat should
become known.
Gradually and by the spontaneous action of natural causes, the
western barrier of the Saxon was moved from the line of Selwood to
the fenland of Pedrida. This barrier was deeper bedded in the soil,
was harder to pass, and has left behind it memories more indelible.
The first explicit notice of this virtual transfer of the western
boundary meets us seventeen years later than the epoch with which
we are now engaged, and it may be worth while to go so far out of
our way in order the better to realize the import of Pedrida.
In the last decade of Alfred’s reign, when he was in the agony of
that supreme crisis which tested the value of his institutions, a great
muster of force was called for, and the extent of the contributing
area is sketched by the annalist as matter of amazement. ‘There
gathered Æthered aldorman and Æthelm aldorman and Æthelnoth
aldorman, and the king’s Thanes who were then at home in the
fortifications, from every garrison east of Pedrida (whether west of
Selwood or east), likewise also north of Thames and west of Severn:
—moreover some part of the Welsh nation[31].’
Here we mark the startling novelty that the Welsh in 894 are seen
aiding the Saxon against the Dane; and we can hardly forgo a
passing cry of wonder and pleasure at this signal token of the
imperial success of Alfred’s policy. But our present concern is with
the recognition of Pedrida as the westernmost limit of Wessex
proper instead of Selwood, and the implication that the change was
recent. We see that Selwoodshire (as the intervening district was
popularly called) was by 894 quite assimilated and included in the
military administration of Wessex, but that beyond Pedrida some
other rule was operative at that time. Such a fact reflects back an
illustrative light upon the year 878, and helps us to estimate the
situation of Alfred when he was in Somerset beyond Pedrida.
The political division here indicated has left traces which may still be
recognized, particularly in the dialect and in folk-lore. Of the dialect
we have a remarkable monument in Mr. Elworthy’s works, The
Dialect of West Somerset, and his West Somerset Word-Book.
Especially to be noted is the ‘u’ of the West Country, which is
radically one with the Welsh ‘u’ and with the French ‘u,’ while at the
same time it has a very distinct local character of its own. Every
Englishman who is conversant with the French language knows how
hard it is to acquire the utterance of the French ‘u’ after the age of
infancy. A like strangeness is experienced by English people born
east of Pedrida, when they attempt to reproduce the western ‘u.’ In
fact, this vowel-sound is Keltic; it is a legacy from our British
predecessors.
Not that this British ‘u’ is absolutely confined to the western
promontory: it may be occasionally heard in other parts of the
country by a cultivated and observant ear. Mr. Mayhew once told me
that he had heard it in the Corn Market at Oxford. But though not
confined to the lands west of Pedrida, it is in a peculiar manner
concentrated there. It is chiefly in Devonshire that this peculiar
vowel has wakened wider attention, but this is simply because that
county has been the most frequented as a place of holiday resort.
The so-called Devonian ‘u’ and its contiguous sounds have been
described many times from first to last, but it has been mostly in
that perfunctory vein which contents the summer tourist. It is rare to
catch such a plain and solid illustration as the following, which is
quoted from the preface to Mr. Elworthy’s West Somerset Word-
Book:—‘I was a passive listener at Brandon’s while a bonnet was
being discussed, and when making the payment ventured to remark
to the young lady, “You must have been a long time in London.” “Oh
yes, ten years; but why do you ask?” “Only for information,” said I.
“And did you come straight from Teignmouth?” With much surprise
at my supposing she came from Devonshire, she said at length that
she was a native of Newton Abbott. I could not pretend to define the
precise quality of her two, but it was only in that one word that I
recognized her locality.’
If the vocabulary of this dialect were minutely examined by a
competent Welsh scholar, some British words might be detected.
Among those which would deserve early attention are plum (soft, as
a bed), pilm or pillum (dust), welt (to beat, thrash).
Another local characteristic of the West Welsh promontory is this,
that it is the peculiar haunt of a race of whimsical or mischievous
sprites called Piskies or Pixies. In South Devon and Cornwall any one
whose conduct is strange and unaccountable is said to be pisky-led.
This is a branch of the numerous kindred of that versatile Puck,
whose memory is kept fresh by the Midsummer Night’s Dream. In an
Anglo-Saxon perambulation of land at Weston by Bath, we meet with
a Pucan Wyl, Puck’s Well[32]. The English Dialect Dictionary
preserves the name of Aw-Puck for Will-o’-the-Wisp or ignis fatuus, a
compound which imports that he is the most dangerous of the
species. This name was current in Worcestershire, but is now
obsolete [33].
These are the more obvious extant traces of the long isolation of the
trans-Pedridan world: others there are which have attracted inquiry,
such as peculiar customs, implements, songs and song-tunes, which
latter have been investigated by Dr. Bussell and the Rev. S. Baring-
Gould.
The Somerset to which Alfred retired was widely unlike the Somerset
of to-day. In this respect three points may be taken: (1) Differences
in the distribution of land and water; (2) differences in the trees and
woods and game; (3) differences in the political aspect of the
population.
1. West Somerset was separated from East Somerset by wide inland
waters: the beds of the Brue and Parret were lakes in the winter,
and only passable in summer to those who knew the ground.
Pedrida was regarded as a natural limit, like the sea itself, dividing
nations; it was spoken of in like phraseology. Thus we read in 658
how Cenwalh warred against the Welsh and drave them even unto
Pedrida[34]; and, in 682, how Centwine drave the Bret-Welsh even
unto the sea[35].
The cause of that expanse of water and large area of fenland
happened far back beyond historical chronology, and we can only
date it by using the geological method of reckoning time. Far back in
the sub-glacial era a subsidence of the land took place which
affected the coast of Somerset and North Devon. Proof of this is
found in a submarine forest extending along the south coast of the
Severn Sea, which has long been known. ‘That portion of it visible at
Porlock was described in 1839 by Sir Henry de la Beche, and more
recently by Mr. Godwin Austen in an essay read before the
Geological Society in 1865[36].’
Subsequently the Rev. H. H. Winwood and Professor Boyd Dawkins
verified the discovery by a thorough examination of the forest-bed.
Near Minehead the forest consists of oak, ash, alder, and hazel,
which grew on a blue clay. An ancient growth of oak, ash, and yew
is found everywhere underneath the peat or alluvium in the
Somersetshire levels. Throughout this wide area the trees were
destroyed by the growth of peat, or by the deposits of the floods,
except at a few isolated spots, which stand at a higher level than
usual, in the great flat extending between the Polden Hills and the
Quantocks. One of these oases, a little distance to the west of
Middlezoy, is termed the Oaks, because those trees form a marked
contrast to the prevailing elms and willows of the district. In the
neighbouring ditches, that gradually cut into peat, and then into silt,
prostrate oaks are very abundant[37].
Subsidence of the land at a remote geological period was the cause
of the impassable state of these levels in the time of king Alfred, and
the modern system of drainage which was carried out at a later date
has been the cause of the improved condition which we see now,
and which has made the Vale of Taunton Dean proverbial as the
Garden of England.
2. In Alfred’s time the eye was greeted by a variety of trees which
are not observable now. The elm predominates all over the plain. I
asked the occupier of Athelney Farm about the trees on his land, and
he said there was hardly anything but elm. Of other kinds he had
only two ash-trees and one beech; ‘but (he added) we find bog-oak
in the moors, and it makes good gate-posts.’ The elms have driven
out both oak and ash, and whatever other sorts they touched in
their ‘wrastling’ progress. These sombre grenadiers dress up their
lines so close as to leave little room for other trees. They suck the
fruitful soil more than any other tree, and they repay their costly
nurture with timber of inferior value. Introduced by the Romans to
serve as stakes and props in the culture of the vine, they have
overrun the land like the imported rabbits in some of our colonies. In
Alfred’s day these hungry aliens had not yet usurped the field, and
there was still room for the display of the rich variety of nature—oak,
ash, beech, fir, maple, yew, sycamore, hornbeam, holly, poplar,
aspen, alder, hazel, wych-elm, apple, cherry, juniper, elder, willow,
mountain ash, spindle-tree, buckthorn, hawthorn, wild plum, wild
pear, service-tree, &c. But now, the fair places of the field are
encumbered by the tall cousins of the nettle, and the most
diversified of English counties is muffled with a monotonous shroud
of outlandish and weedy growth.
In the animal world, likewise, the lapse of a thousand years has
brought change. In the pastures the most frequent animal is the
cow, and only on rare occasions, as we view the moors from some
elevated ‘tump,’ have we the chance to see a little company of
antlered deer careering over the open plain, clearing the rhines with
an airy bound. In Alfred’s time too, cow-keeping was a stock
industry, and we read of the king as entertained incognito by one of
his own cowherds (apud quendam suum vaccarium).
But the proportion of wild to domesticated animals was far greater
then than it is now. The whole stretch of country from Pedrida to the
end of Exmoor, fifty miles long and twenty miles wide, was then
almost a continuous forest, abounding with game of all kinds, but
especially with red deer, which still continues, though in diminished
numbers. This noble creature is thus described by Bewick:—
‘The Stag or Red Deer. This is the most beautiful animal of the deer
kind. The elegance of his form, the lightness of his motions, the
flexibility of his limbs, his bold, branching horns, which are annually
renewed, his grandeur, strength, and swiftness, give him a decided
pre-eminence over every other inhabitant of the forest[38].’
The red deer still lives and breeds along the southern coast of the
Severn Sea, and this is I believe the only part of Great Britain in
which this right royal animal still ranges at large in all the freedom of
nature. I am informed by my friend Mr. Townshend that in Ireland
they are kept as an ornament in some gentlemen’s parks, but that in
a free state of nature they survive only in the mountains of Killarney.
Here it will be useful to read Leland’s notes of travel across the
lowlands of Somerset, especially as they touch some places with
which we are concerned. (I quote from the Proceedings of the
Somersetshire Archæological and Natural History Society, No. xxxiii,
‘Leland in Somersetshire, 1540–1542.’)
All this history was known to Alfred and went to swell the stream of
his meditations, which tended to assure him that he had a fresh and
promising field before him, and to mature in him the purpose of
exerting himself to win the hearty attachment of this well-affected
but still half alien population.
Between Twelfth Day and Easter Day of the year 878 there were
barely eleven weeks, for Easter fell early that year, namely on March
23. Of Alfred’s doings in that interval we have no information, except
in so far as it seems to be indicated that the affair of Cynwit was not
conducted without his intervention. And we may add the traditional
story of the cakes, a story which probably dates from Alfred’s day, as
we have reasonably good evidence that it was current in the tenth
century. Nor may we omit his espial of the Danish camp in minstrel
guise, a legend which, though not found in early authorities, yet
does claim some credit from the book in which it is narrated, namely
the Book of Hyde—a book in which we might expect to find some
early traditions of New Minster, one of king Alfred’s foundations.
But while we desire to make the most of these items, it must be
admitted that they constitute an inadequate furniture for eleven
weeks of Alfred’s time in the most intense crisis of his life. At any
other point in Alfred’s career, the silence of so many weeks might
not provoke remark, but at this moment it makes a sensible void. If,
however, we rightly apprehend the situation of the fugitive king, his
hopes and his fears, his aims and his resources, we may (in the light
of the great result) indulge a sober imagination without fear of
considerable error.
Among the pieces of genuine tradition which seem to greet the
explorer in Asser’s Life, there is perhaps none on which we may
more confidently lean than a certain fragment in the paragraph
beginning ‘Interea tamen rex[42].’
The drift of this context is that with all his wars and frequent
interruptions, Alfred ruled his kingdom, and ‘practised every branch
of the craft of venery; directed his goldsmiths and all his artificers;
did moreover instruct the falconers and hawk-catchers and dog-
trainers; and by his own novel engineering constructed buildings
beyond all former wont, statelier and more costly; had Saxon books
read to him, and commanded others to learn Saxon poems by heart,
&c.’
In this passage I seem to recognize a true historic note; and I think
that in this picture of the range of his powers, and the roll of his
accomplishments, his vast activity and versatility, we have some
genuine reminiscences of the personality of Alfred. In the emphasis
here laid on hunting, we may recognize the king who, some years
later, sent a present of wolfhounds to the archbishop of Rheims, and
such dogs, too, that their quality and breed was accentuated by the
receiver in his grateful acknowledgement[43]. And when to this we
add that he could make and sing a song, could tell a good tale,
could make choice of men and win their confidence, we need little
aid from imagination to perceive how this mysterious visitor might
captivate the British hearts of all Somerset like one man, and
perhaps set them wondering whether it could be their own ideal king
Arthur come back to them again.
During nearly three months of that eventful year his aim was to
cultivate closer relations with the people of that outlying territory,
desiring that they might become attached to him with sentiments of
loyalty and friendship. To devote himself to this undertaking was at
once his duty, his interest, and his delight. For such an achievement
as this he had advantages both natural and acquired. Apart from
war, there is nothing like hunting for making comrades, if a man
have a genial soul and be himself a mighty hunter. Alfred was a
mighty hunter and a genial soul, and close at hand there was one of
the finest hunting-grounds in the world.
Immediately from the Pedridan swamp the ground began to rise to
north and north-west towards a run of hilly and woodland country
forty miles long, and from ten to twenty miles broad; a country
which remains singular to this day for its natural breed of red deer
and its chase of the great game. This royal sport survives on Exmoor
and in the Quantocks, and there are Minehead people who can tell
you that they have seen the stag-hunt scamper through their main
street in full cry.
At the entrance of this country, at a point which is conveniently
situated for uniting activity inland with a constant observation of the
line of Pedrida, is a village which is now called North Newton, with
which Petherton Park had been so long and closely linked that it
went by the popular name of Newton Park. I am led by a number of
small indications to infer that this is the place where Alfred had his
chief residence during those early months of the year 878.
When Easter came, his action began to be overt; he dropped
personal disguise, and stood forth as Ælfred cyning. ‘When Easter
came, king Alfred, with a small force, constructed a fort at Athelney,
and out of that fort was warring against the invading host, he and
the men of Somerset, that portion of them which was nighest[44].’
This is the action of a commander who has made sure of his
following, and is now beginning his operations against the enemy.
He fortifies himself on the east side of the bridge, where a conical
hill offers an opportune position; and from that basis he opens a
guerilla warfare with the invaders. He does not show his hand: he
rather wants to be thought weak. This naturally draws away from
head quarters more and more of the hostile force, who think that
they shall presently deal a last blow to the Saxon resistance. And so
with a petty and apparently futile display of military force, he
continues to amuse and distract the enemy for the next six weeks.
The impression made on the mind of the people by these events is
traceable in two names: Athelney, which now represents Æthelinga
Eig, the island of princes; and Borough Bridge, which means the
bridge at the fortification. The fort which Alfred made in 878 is well
preserved, the entrenchments occupying the summit of a conical hill
near the east end of the bridge which spans the Parret, after its
junction with the Tone.
How the king had employed the unrecorded months is manifest in
the result. His muster-roll at Brixton Deveril, in the words of a
contemporary, is brief yet eloquent: ‘Then in the seventh week after
Easter he rode to Ecgbrihtes Stân, on the eastern side of Selwood,
and to meet him at that place came the men of Somerset, all of
them, and the Wiltshire men, and of Hampshire the part that was on
the hither side of the sea; and of him fain they were.’ This passage
of the Saxon Chronicle seems to render a satisfactory account of the
manner in which the king had employed his time from Epiphany to
Easter in the year 878.
Absorbed in this supreme effort, where his all was at stake, he may
well have found no time for recovering his buried Jewel, and he may
never have revisited the spot until his marks were all obliterated.
From the land beyond Pedrida, which had hitherto counted to the
crown of Wessex only as a recent territorial acquisition, now started
up around the fugitive king an army of devoted warriors, who
resolutely threw their weight into the scale, and rescued the dynasty
of their conquerors.
Such was the nature of the force which Alfred now with a swelling
heart perceived to be entirely at his disposal, and he buckled to the
task of employing them to the best advantage. From the entrenched
hill by Borough Bridge he prosecuted the war against the Danes,
whose basis was at Chippenham, and this he continued for six
weeks. This he could do with a small force, as he had great
advantages of position. Between him and the foe lay the fenny
channel of the Brue, which he and his people were expert in
crossing. So it was comparatively easy for him to harass them and
retire to his fort.
This kind of warfare, continued for six weeks, must have had the
designed effect of drawing off from the strength of the foe in
Wiltshire, and causing them to concentrate their attention upon this
feigned line of attack. For all this was only to amuse and distract the
enemy, and so to facilitate the execution of a very different project,
which the king was preparing. What was passing in Alfred’s mind
may (in all essentials) be read in Lord Roberts’s narrative of his
preparations for attacking the Afghans, when they were entrenched
on the Peiwar Kotal in December, 1878[45]. By making display of
reconnoitring parties and other preparations as for a front attack,
carrying this on to the extent of raising batteries and mounting guns,
till he had caused the enemy to make counter dispositions
accordingly, he with the utmost secrecy by a circuitous night march
made a flank attack, taking them unprepared, and promptly
dislodged them from an apparently impregnable position. So Alfred,
while waging the six weeks’ war, had his trusty messengers abroad
all through Wiltshire and Hampshire, preparing for the tryst at
Ecgbrihtes Stân.
Well may we exclaim with Sir Walter Besant—‘What follows is like a
dream!’ Yea, verily, like a dream in its sudden transformation of the
whole face and prospect of things, and equally unaccountable too;
for no attempt to explain it by natural causes will ever match the
stupendous result. It is not in order to dispel an illusion that we seek
to trace the plan and the process—the illusion cannot be dispelled.
No, rather it is in order to penetrate further into the action of a life
that has kindled our admiration. Of that life we have a mirror in the
enthusiasm with which his presence had fired the Welsh of Somerset
beyond Pedrida. It is surely no mere accident that in the
memorandum of that resolute force which mustered for his
restoration, the first item should be—Sumorsæte alle.
Soon after the expiration of which term Sir Thomas Wrothe, son and
heir of the last-named Robert, purchased of Edward VI the fee of
Petherton Park and the Manor of Newton Regis. The office of
Forester had now fallen into decay and the ancient glory had
departed, and the transfer of this property appears to have been
governed by the ordinary considerations. In the time of Queen
Elizabeth the descendants of Sir Thomas pulled down the park
house, and carried the materials to a lodge called the Broad Lodge,
which (said Collinson in 1791) ‘the late Sir Thomas Wrothe improved
to a handsome dwelling. The whole park[47] is now converted into
farms.’ The improvements of Sir Thomas Wrothe, here mentioned,
have a probable connexion with our subject.
Such is the remarkable history of the Manor which has been at
different times known as Newton Forester, Newton Placey, Newton
Regis, and Newton Wrothe; and this history ministers occasion for a
surmise that the distinction which attended this Manor may have had
its roots considerably further back, inasmuch as the extant records
do not offer an adequate account of that peculiar prerogative which
made it so famous and so dignified.
I venture to suggest that the beginnings of this place, which has
been so eminent, and which is now known by the comparatively
obscure name of North Newton, may have been connected with the
retreat of the king to Athelney, that this may have been a spot of his
own selection. It is reached from Athelney by simply following the
rise of the ground, it is well placed for keeping an eye on the Parret,
the side from which a surprize was most to be apprehended, and it
was the approach to the fine hunting-fields of Quantock and Exmoor.
What more natural than that he should take a liking to the place and
judge it convenient for a hunting-lodge? And I venture to throw out
a surmise for consideration. May it not be that the prefix ‘New’ was
set by the king himself, who gave the name of New Minster to his
foundation at Winchester[48]?
The name of Newton properly belonged only to the Manor, but as
the lordship of this Manor was long coupled with the custody of
Petherton Park, and as the two were habitually associated in men’s
minds, the latter came to be spoken of as ‘Newton Park,’ and this
title is simply a colloquial variation and equivalent for Petherton Park.
The correct name of Petherton Park is constantly used by Leland in
the extract from his Itinerary which is given in the previous chapter.
So that when the Alfred Jewel is said to have been found in Newton
Park, this is only a popular way of saying that it was found in
Petherton Park. The discovery occurred in the time of Sir Thomas
Wrothe, who was also the enlarger of the mansion, and it is a
probable inference that it was found in the excavations which were
required for this work[49].
FAIRFIELD HOUSE.