Boat Building Simplified - Being a Practical Guide to the 'Ashcroft' Method of Building, Rowing, Sailing and Motor Boats

Boat Building Simplified

BY

the late HERBERT J. ASHCROFT.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY

WORKROOM.—The present editor built the first of his boats in a bedroom, the second in an attic, and the third in a shed. Any place inside of suitable size or (provided it is or can be sufficiently covered and lighted) in the open, will answer. The average dinghy is not deep and, carried on its side, will pass through any ordinary door or passage.

The space required will be at least four feet longer and four feet wider than the proposed boat, exclusive of width of bench.

Bench.—Useful but not vital. It is, however, easy to make a rough one, or you can often buy one second-hand or get one knocked up at an old timber yard for a few shillings. It is well worth while.

Tools.—A screwdriver, saw, hammer, small plane, oil stone, spirit level, a few drills (best to buy a Miller’s Fall tool), spokeshave, cutting pliers, bevel and a couple of chisels are probably all that are essential. Some tools (e.g., bow-saw or key-hole saw) can be borrowed as occasion requires. Some cheap metal clamps are desirable. A dozen wooden clamps and wedges are essential and must be made as explained hereafter. Keep your cutting tools well sharpened and oiled. The best rule is to sharpen little but often. Blunt tools not only involve more trouble but often spoil good material. A vice is desirable.

Terms.—For the sake of the novice, I explain the following:—

Stocks.—The fixed base on which the boat frame rests while building until the planking-up is finished.

Moulds.—The shaped wooden frames made full size from plan to the section of the boat at intervals which frames are firmly secured across the stocks. The boat is built round these frames in order to ensure the right size and shape. The moulds are knocked out after the boat is planked-up. (See p. 7).

Keel.—The strip of hard wood (about 4 ins. wide in the boat to be described) running along outside the bottom centre of the boat from end to end. This is put on after planking-up.

Keelson.—A similar strip running inside the bottom of the boat. The planking or skin of the boat is fastened diagonally to the keelson plank by plank, and finally the keel is fastened through the planking to the keelson.

Beam.—The extreme width of the boat.

Stem.—The main timber forming a pointed bow.

Apron.—A piece of hardwood fastened behind and to the stem to give additional strength and a better bearing for the ends of the stringers and gunwales.

Skeg.—The triangular piece of wood fitted aft underneath along the centre of the flat keel from ’midship to stern to act as a deep keel and help the boat to keep a straight course.

Gunwales.—These are the broad strakes of wood—one pair on each side of the boat—between each of which pairs the ends of the planks are housed. The gunwales go round the top of the boat from bow to stern.

Gunwale Capping.—Two thin strips of wood fastened over the top of the gunwale strakes to hide the plank ends—one strip on each side of the boat.

Stringers.—These form the permanent ribs of the boat and consist of six long strips of wood running at intervals from stem to sternboard on each side of the boat. They rest in joggles or notches cut out of the moulds, and form, together with the keelson, the framework over which the double planking is laid diagonally and to which the planking is nailed.

Planking.—The skin of the boat—put on diagonally in two parallel layers—inner and outer planks.

Riser.—The first stringer on each side of the boat next to the gunwales. They are slightly larger than the remaining stringers because eventually the thwarts rest on and are screwed to them.

Thwart.—The name given to any seat in a boat—bow thwart, mid or main-thwart, stern-thwart.

Spline.—A flexible wood, celluloid or other strip used in drawing curves.

Knee.—A triangular piece of wood for holding fast together two other pieces of wood—e.g., to fasten stem and gunwales forward (called the breast-hook), gunwales and sternboard aft (called quarter-knees), also thwarts to gunwales and sternboard to keelson.

Rabbet (or Rebate).—A groove cut in one piece of wood to house another piece of wood, e.g., along the stem to house the planking.

Joggle.—A notch cut in one piece of wood to permit of the insertion of another piece of wood.

Stem Dinghy.—One with a pointed bow.

Pram Dinghy.—One having a flat semi-circular bow, something like the stern-board (or transom) but much smaller, and sloping about 45 degrees to the water.

To Clench a Nail.—First note that the hole bored must be smaller than the nail so that the nail fits fairly tightly. After drilling the hole and driving the head flush, turn the projecting end over so as to form a staple and, while a helper holds a heavy iron against the head, drive the point over into the wood. It is not enough to turn the end at right angles. The point also must be curved over so as to re-pierce the wood if clenching is to be effective. Clench with the grain and not across it. Personally I turn the points over, before clenching, with round-nosed pliers. It saves time in the long run, and makes a better job for the novice.

To Rivet Copper Nails Over Burs or Roves or Rooves.—Drill your hole smaller than the nail, and drive the nail fully in. Put the roove over the point, and, while a helper holds a heavy iron against the head, drive the roove on as far as it will go by means of the rooving-iron. Cut off the part of the nail projecting beyond the roove with cutting pliers, leaving about 1/16 in. Then, while the helper again holds the iron weight against the head, tap the projecting piece with numerous light taps rather than blows with a light hammer till it spreads nicely over the roove. If the weight is not firmly held, the nail is knocked out backwards—and heavy blows tend to bend the nail. Do not be afraid to cut off close to the roove. If you leave too much stump to rivet it will go sideways. A proper riveting hammer (called a ball-paned hammer) has one end rounded instead of flat, but though useful, is not essential. Do not use rooves smaller than 3/8 in. diameter.

Rooving Iron.—A small punch made for the purpose. It is a piece of iron about 3 ins. long and 3/8 in. in diameter, with a hole drilled in one end. You can either buy this or easily make one out of a small piece of, say, 3/8 in. gas-piping plugged with hardwood. After plugging, bore a small hole about 1 in. up into the centre of the wood core.

Screwing.—It may help a novice to say that in screwing two pieces of wood