Dress Making - Drafting and Pattern Making

I. SHIRT-WAIST

I. Drafting the Pattern

REGULATION MEASURES

Length Measures—

(1) Length of back 15″

(2) Length of front 15½″

(3) Length of underarm 7½″

Width Measures—

(1) Width of back 14″

(2) Width of chest 14½″

(3) Bust 38″

(4) Waist 26″

(5) Neck 13½″

Individual measures are taken as described in the preceding chapter.

The shirt-waist pattern is composed of two pieces, one half the back and one half the front. These may both be made, side by side, on one sheet of drafting-paper about 36″ in length. The back is drafted first.

BACK

In the upper left-hand corner of the paper two lines at right angles and of indefinite length should be drawn. The work then proceeds as follows:

(1) To Determine the Foundation Lines:

(2) To Determine the Neck Line:

(3) To Determine the Centre Back Line:

(4) To Determine the Shoulder Line:

(5) To Determine the Underarm Seam:

(6) To Determine the Armseye:

(7) To Determine the Basque:

(8) To Determine the Curve of the Shoulder Seam:

FRONT

Extend the line A of the back of the waist across the sheet and draw a line at right angles to it in the upper right-hand corner. The work then proceeds as follows:

(1) To Determine the Foundation Lines:

(2) To Determine the Neck Line:

(3) To Determine the Width of Chest:

(4) To Determine the Shoulder Line:

(5) To Determine the Underarm Seam:

(6) To Determine the Armseye:

(7) To Determine the Waist Line:

(8) To Determine the Centre Front Line:

(9) To Determine the Basque:

(10) To Determine the Curve of the Shoulder Seam: