Jewelry Making for Beginners: 32 Projects with Metals

Metals

Several inexpensive metals, both in sheet and wire form, can be used to make interesting jewelry. For the beginner, copper and brass are recommended because of their low cost, but even advanced jewelers who work almost exclusively in sterling silver frequently use copper and brass for variety and color.

As far as construction is concerned, all the metals named can be used interchangeably for the jewelry included in this book. When the beginning craftsman becomes more skillful he may want to work more often in sterling silver which, although it costs a little more, is a fine adaptable metal.

The different metals vary in hardness. Annealing is a heating process which is given to the metal to make it soft and pliable. Most of the metals used for the following projects may be purchased annealed. If the metal has to be annealed, lay it on a screen and hot plate until the heat turns it a glowing red, then set it aside to cool or plunge it into water for quick cooling. Use only annealed sheet and wire for the following projects.

COPPER is used in its pure metallic state. Its reddish-brown color gives it a warm outdoor quality. Cold rolled and annealed sheet is smooth and easy to work. It can be polished and lacquered for a permanent finish.

BRASS is an alloy of copper and zinc, harder than copper. It is gold in color. It takes a high polish and is lacquered to preserve the luster.

STERLING SILVER is an alloy of pure silver and a small percentage of another metal, usually copper, to harden it. It is a more precious metal than copper or brass, it is easy to work and can be finished in several different ways; polished for a soft luster, given a high polish, oxidized for depth of color and then polished for highlights.

IRON is taken from iron ore and, when treated, is both tough and flexible and can be pulled into wire. The black iron binding wire referred to in this book is used not only to hold pieces together for soldering, but also for a chain of iron units held together with silver links. If lacquered, the iron will not rust and its dark color and dull texture contrast well with the other metals used.

TIN has the whiteness of silver and is used in many important alloys, among them being solder. We employ tin only for solder, in pure state or alloyed with lead.

Bench equipment

Bench vise, used to hold various tools during working operations.

Steel anvil block, a hammering surface on which to smooth or flatten metal.

Lead block, used for many cutting and doming processes.

Clamps, to hold the bench pin in place.

Metal gauge, for measuring the thickness of wire and flat metal.

Bench pin, a wedge shaped block of wood held to the bench to support work for sawing or filing.

Tools

Essential tools for the beginner include those here and those on the following four pages. A variety of articles can be made with a small set of good tools; in fact, some of the pieces are made with only two or three of the tools listed. All tools should be kept clean and protected from pressure that may bend or dull them and from moisture which will cause corrosion or rust. A good workman takes care of his tools.

CARE OF TOOLS

Keep the working surface of the steel hammer and steel surface plate free of scratches and dents by using coarse and fine abrasives depending upon the depth of the dent or scratch.

The steel burnisher must be kept well polished and wrapped in chamois skin when not in use.

The file and handle come separately. Only the small files, such as the needle files, have a handle as part of the file. The teeth of the files will become dull if allowed to rub against each other, or against other steel tools. Clean the files with a file brush, and