The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today's Meat

Table of Contents

Title Page

Table of Contents

Photo

Copyright

Dedication

Photo

Introduction

BEEF AND BISON Recipes

Great Meat Dishes of The World: Steak House Grilled Rib Eye with Flavored Butter

Iceberg Wedges with Blue Cheese, Buttermilk, and Scallion Dressing

Twice-Baked Potatoes with Sour Cream and Parmigiano Filling

Broccolini with Pecan Brown Butter

Flavored Butters

Marinades, Spice Rubs, and Spice Pastes for Steaks

Flank Steak Carne Asada Padilla

Steak Sandwich with Caesar Mayo

Guinness-Marinated Bison Rib-Eye Steak Sandwiches with Mushrooms and Grilled Onions

Pan-Seared Grass-Fed Porterhouse with Porcini and Rosemary Rub

Pan-Broiled Beer-Marinated Hanger Steak

Two-Step Pan-Broiled Double-Thick Steak

Beef Fillet Paillards with Arugula, Mushrooms, and Parmesan (Steak Tagliata)

Pan-Seared Fillet Steaks with Irish Whiskey and Cream Pan Sauce

Steak with Porcini-Shallot Sauce

Sauteéd Steak with Rockefeller Pan Sauce

Wood Oven–Roasted Steak

Standing Rib Roast with Porcini-Spinach Stuffing, Toasted Peppercorn and Whiskey Sauce, and Horseradish Cream

Standing Rib Roast with Bacon and Rosemary Jus and Yorkshire Puddings

Great Meat Dishes of The World: Rosa Di Parma (Whole Beef Fillet Stuffed with Prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano)

Herb-Salted New York Strip Roast with Morel Sauce

Beef and Bison Roasts for Everyday Meals

Grill-Or Oven-Roasted Tri-Tip with Spanish Adobo Rub

Beef Cross-Rib Roast with Garlic-Herb Marinade

Spinach and Gorgonzola-Stuffed Flank Steak

Roast Bison Sirloin

Roasted Ginger-Orange-Glazed Prime Rib Bones

Beef Kebabs

Thai Green Curry-Marinated Beef Kebabs

Ground Beef and Bison

Barbecue Sauce-Glazed Meat Loaf

Spicy Middle Eastern Bison Meatballs with Cilantro-Yogurt Sauce

Italian Wedding Soup (Italian Meatball Soup)

Turkish Pasta with Bison Sauce

Valette Family Stuffed Whole Cabbage

Filling Options for Stuffed Cabbage

Jamaican Beef Patties (Spicy Beef Turnovers)

Smoky Bison Cheeseburger

Calabrese Burgers

Italian Burger Subs

Beef and Bison Pot Roasts and Braising Steaks

Curry and Guinness-Braised Chuck Steak

Braised Beef Steak with Tequila, Tomato, and Orange

Spanish-Style Braised Bison or Grass-Fed Beef Brisket

Mustard and Bourbon-Glazed Pot Roast

Pot-Roasted Grass-Fed Beef Chuck with Winter Root Vegetables

Rump Roast Braised in Ale

Irish Corned Beef and Vegetables with Dill Pickle-Horseradish Cream and Guinness-Mustard Sauce

Beef and Bison Stew Meat, Short Ribs, and Other Gnarly Cuts

Hungarian Goulash

Jeff’s Daube (Provençal Beef Stew)

Feijoada (Brazilian Black Bean Stew)

Bison Cottage Pie

Mexican Beef Brisket and Winter Squash Chili

Braised Montana Coffee-Marinated Bison Short Ribs

Lazy Man’s Short Ribs

Grill-Braised Vietnamese Short Ribs with Sweet Vinegar Glaze

Great Meat Dishes of The World: Cocido from Castilla-La Mancha

Chinese-Style Braised Oxtails with Baby Bok Choy

Italian-Inspired Braised Oxtails with Fried Capers and Sage Leaves

Peposo Alla Fornacina (Baker’s Peppery Beef Shanks)

Friuli-Style Braised Beef Cheeks

Irish Beef-Cheek Pie with Stout

Beef Tongue and Liver

Mexican-Style Poached Beef Tongue Tacos

Mexican Pickled Vegetables

Beef Liver with Chorizo, Fresh Pimientos, and Sherry

PORK Recipes

Flavor Brines for Pork Chops

Pork Chops, Steaks, Cutlets, and Medallions

Mustard and Savory-Marinated Pork Chops with Cornichon Butter

Salsas, Chutneys, and Sambals

Grilled Boneless Pork Chops Stuffed with Fontina, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, And Prosciutto

Plum-Marinated Pork T-Bone Loin Chops

Malaysian Marinated Blade-End Pork Chops with Green Papaya Salad

Baked Pork Chops with Bacon, Pomegranate, and Pine Nut Relish

Panfried Pork Chops Stuffed with Prunes and Westphalian Ham

Pork Chops with Leeks in Mustard Sauce

Seared Pork T-Bone Loin Chops with Sautéed Apple

Pork Cutlets with Pear and Sherry Vinegar Pan Sauce

Pork Tenderloin Medallions with Roasted Pepper and Cherry Pepper Pan Sauce

Carlos’s Grilled Chile-Marinated Thin-Cut Pork Soft Tacos

Soft Tacos

Pork Kebabs

Caribbean Pork Kebabs with Sweet Potato and Pecan Relish

Grilled Scallions Wrapped in Pork Belly

Spanish-Style Pork Burgers

Vietnamese Pork Sandwiches (Banh Mi Thit)

Mexican Tortas

My Guacamole

Pork and Apple Dumplings (Pierogi)

Great Meat Dishes of The World: Hanoi Rice Noodles and Grilled Pork (Bun Cha Hanoi)

Thai Pork Salad (Laab)

Great Meat Dishes of the World: All-Pork Cassoulet

Gary’s Heirloom Tomato Sauce

My Neapolitan Cabbie’s Baked Ziti with Broccoli Rabe and Hot Italian Sausage

Pork Roasts

Pork Tenderloin Stuffed with Porcini Mushrooms with Tomato Salsa Verde

Prosciutto-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin

Spanish-Style Roasted Rack of Pork with Pan-Roasted Romesco Sauce

Pancetta-Herb-Flavored Pork Loin with Rhubarb Sauce

Double Rack of Pork, Honor-Guard Style, with Morel Pan Sauce

Morel Pan Sauce

Chestnut, Bacon, and Corn Bread Stuffing

Melt-in-Your-Mouth Pork Shoulder

Dry-Salted Fresh Leg of Pork

Ham

Baked Ham with Glaze and Sauce

Glazes and Sauces for Baked Ham

Country Ham with Maple, Tea, and Cardamom Glaze and Sauce

Ham Leftovers: Ham in Port and Raisin Sauce

Bourbon, Stout, and Sweet Potato Waffles with Ham and Maple Sauce

Greens, Fresh Peas, and Ham Soup

Gammy Brown’s Deviled Ham

Pork Stews, Pot Roasts, and Other Braises

Cuban-Style Pork and Rice

Pork Stew with Fennel and Butternut Squash

Carcamusas (Spanish-Style Pork Stew with Chorizo and Paprika)

Pork Stew with Hard Cider, Baby Onions, and Potatoes

Wine and Vinegar-Braised Picnic Shoulder

Beer and Tequila Carnitas Tacos

Chile-Braised Pork Belly

Stinco (Braised and Roasted Pork Shanks)

Thai Braised and Glazed Pork Neck

Ham Hocks with Leeks and White Beans

Pork Ribs

Grill-Roasted Cherry-Glazed St. Louis Ribs

Grilled Back Ribs in Smoky Chile Marinade

Baked Spareribs with Lemon Confit Rub

SAUSAGES, PÂTÉS, POTTED MEATS & CURED MEATS Recipes

Maple and Sage Pork Sausage Patties

Sweet Italian Sausage

Thai Pork Sausage

Kale and Garlic Sausage

Semidried (Semicurado) Spanish Chorizo

Basic Mexican-Style Chorizo

Italian Country Terrine

Smooth Lamb Liver Pâté with Vin Santo

Pork Liver Mousse

Tongue Mousse

Ham and Goat Cheese Terrine

Pork Confit

Star Anise-Flavored Pork Rillettes

Shannon Hayes’s Lard

Basic Wet Brine

Home-Cured Bacon

Smoked Pork Loin (Canadian Bacon)

Smoked Boston Butt

Dick Vennerbeck’s Overnight Ham

Home-Cured Ham

Home-Cured Corned Beef and Pastrami

Petit Salé Pork (Brined Pork)

Pickled Beef Tongue

LAMB AND GOAT Recipes

Lamb and Goat Chops

Grilled Lamb Chops

Marinades and Pastes for Lamb Chops

Sautéed Lamb Chops With Tomato-Eggplant Vinaigrette

Mushroom-Stuffed Lamb T-Bone Loin Chops

Tandoori Lamb Shoulder Chops

Sauteed Goat T-Bone Loin Chops with Pecorino and Toasted Almonds

Lamb and Goat Roasts

Roast Leg of Lamb with Rosemary-Scented Potatoes

Two Lamb Sandwiches

Thyme And Fennel-Rubbed Roast Rack of Lamb

Provençal Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Olive Crust

Porcini and Artichoke-Stuffed Leg of Lamb

Slow-Roasted Lamb Shoulder with Rosemary-Pancetta Paste

Crown Roast of Lamb

Bulgur Mint Stuffing

Grill-Roasted Goat Shoulder

Lamb and Goat Kebabs

Moroccan-Style Lamb Kebabs

Spicy and Smoky Mexican Goat Kebabs

Ground Lamb and Goat

Lebanese-Style Lamb and Bulgur Burgers

Sicilian Lamb Meatballs Braised with Eggplant, Bell Pepper, and Tomatoes

Loni’s Pastitsio (The Ultimate Greek Mac and Cheese)

Lamb and Goat Stews, Pot Roasts, and Other Braises

West Indian Goat Curry

Mexican Braised Goat with Chiles (Birria de Chivo)

Thai Goat and Noodle Soup (Khao Soi)

Turkish Pomegranate-Glazed Lamb Shoulder Chops and Carrots

Florentine Lamb Pot Roast with Black Olives

Great Meat Dishes of The World: Pakistani Feast-Day Lamb With Lime And Fresh Cilantro

Lamb Biryan

Grill-Braised Moroccan Lamb Shanks with Honey Glaze

Sami’a Stuffed Lamb Breast

Diamond Lil’s Lamb Riblets

Lamb Riblets with Asian Tamarind Glaze

Lamb Tongues Escabeche

VEAL Recipes

Thai Marinated Veal Chops with Chile-Lemongrass Dipping Sauce and Skewered Eggplant

Pan-Grilled Veal Chops with Tomato-Blue Cheese Butter and Cherry Tomato Salad

Veal Cutlets with Scotch Whiskey Pan Sauce

Other Pan Sauces for Veal Cutlets

Sicilian-Style Involtini

Roasted Herb-Marinated Veal Racks

Ground Veal

Veal Yakitori Patties

Veal Stews and Other Braised Dishes

Pot-Roasted Veal on a Cloud

New Orleans Veal Grillades with Cheesy Grits

Great Meat Dishes of The World: Veal Breast Stuffed with Mushrooms, Chard, and Parmesan

Provençal-Style Braised Veal Breast Ragú

Jeff’s Osso Buco with Artichokes

Veal Offal (Calf’s Liver, Tongue, and Sweetbreads)

Calf’S Liver with Four Lilies and Sun-Dried Tart Cherries

Olive Oil-Poached Veal Sweetbreads

Crispy Panfried Sweetbreads

Sources

Acknowledgments

Recipes by Category

Index

About the Author

Footnotes

Copyright © 2012 by Bruce Aidells

Photographs copyright © 2012 by Luca Trovato

All rights reserved

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book, write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company, 215 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10003.

www.hmhbooks.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available.

ISBN 978-0-547-24141-8

Food styling by Rori Trovato

Prop styling by Jennifer Barguiarena

Meats in photographs courtesy of Golden Gate Meat Company, San Francisco, California, and Preferred Meats, Oakland, California

Cover photograph: Standing Rib Roast with Porcini-Spinach Stuffing, Toasted Peppercorn and Whiskey Sauce, and Horseradish Cream, [>]

eISBN 978-0-547-61752-7

v1.1012

Illustrations on [>], [>], [>], and [>] © 1998 by Mary Newell DePalma.

Photographs of Angus beef on [>], [>], [>], and [>] courtesy of Certified Angus Beef® Brand. Used by permission.

All other beef and veal photographs courtesy of The Beef Checkoff, used by permission.

Photographs of country hams on [>] courtesy of Edwards of Surry, Virginia. Used by permission.

Pork photographs courtesy of the National Pork Board, used by permission.

Lamb photographs courtesy of the American Lamb Board, used by permission.

Photographs on [>] courtesy of USDA/AMS, used by permission.

Some of the recipes were previously published in slightly different form in the following magazines: Bon Appetit, Cooking Pleasures, Cooking Light, Eating Well, Fine Cooking, Food & Wine, Gourmet, and Real Food.

To my wife, Nancy Oakes, who gets up each day to make her patrons happy by striving to cook food to the highest standard.

You are my inspiration.

Introduction

In the sixteen-plus years that have passed since Denis Kelly and I wrote The Complete Meat Cookbook, the world of meat cookery has changed. Back then, we visited our local supermarket, selected the cut we needed, and into the basket it went. The conditions on the farm, the breed, and other such factors were rarely, if ever, a consideration. Maybe we paid attention to whether the meat was Prime or Choice and how tender it would be, and perhaps we thought about the price, but that was about it.

Today best-selling books, TV and movie exposés, and numerous magazine and newspaper articles have heightened our awareness. As a result, a growing number of food lovers have decided that they no longer want to buy meat produced in industrialized feedlots or other confinement systems and instead opt for sustainably raised meat. In addition to concerns about the detrimental effects that factory farming has on animals and the workers, as well as the environment, many people prefer to avoid meat from animals that have been pumped full of antibiotics and growth promotants. And others are simply looking for more choices in flavor and texture than commodity (i.e., supermarket) meat offers.

With the rising number of farmers who have returned to traditional methods and sell their meat at farmers’ markets, through Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs, and over the Internet, a truly diverse supply is available to anyone willing to search it out. It’s also led to a host of new terms: heirloom breed, pasture raised, humanely raised, grass fed, grass finished, grain finished, raised without antibiotics or growth promotants, natural, USDA Certified Organic. What do these labels mean and how are they regulated? And how do we cook the meat displaying these claims? The Great Meat Cookbook will help you make sense of the confusion.

Whether you buy meat from a farmer or at the supermarket, you need to know how to choose great cuts and match them to the best cooking method. Lean beef and pork are still the norm in America, as they were when we wrote The Complete Meat Cookbook. But in addition to this commodity beef and pork, you’ll now find lean grass-fed beef, bison, pasture-raised lamb, goat, and veal in the marketplace. The techniques and recipes in this book will give you delicious results no matter what meat you choose.

If you’re like me, you’re looking for new and exciting ways to spice up your meals. Grilled steaks with Spanish Sweet Pepper and Chorizo Butter ([>]), Thai Green Curry-Marinated Beef Kebabs ([>]), and Pork Stew with Hard Cider, Baby Onions, and Potatoes ([>]) are just a few of the recipes in this collection that will bring excitement to your table. You will also find many recipes that pair small portions of meat with larger amounts of vegetables or grains.

The Great Meat Cookbook isn’t just about common cuts. I’ve included lots of recipes for underappreciated parts of the animal—shoulder, shanks, neck, and leg, for example. Using these lower-priced cuts, you can make some of the world’s great meat dishes without breaking the bank. And by so doing, you help the farmer who needs to sell every part of his or her animals.

I have also delved into the fine art of charcuterie and elegant classics like pâtés and cured meats. In addition, I’ve given you simple recipes for making your own bacon, ham, and corned beef.

Since turning leftovers into creative and delicious new dishes is also important when serving meat regularly and on a budget, you will find a multitude of ideas and recipes to make sure that leftovers will never be boring in your house.

Sustainable Meat

Buying Local. One way that we as consumers participate in sustainability is by buying meat locally, whether at a grocery store that carries local products or at a farmers’ market.

You can also become a supporter of a meat CSA program. CSAs are ideal for purchasing grass-fed beef, bison, lamb, goat, heirloom pork, and pasture-raised veal—and they give you the opportunity to contribute to the success of a local farm. You pay a fee in advance and receive a weekly or monthly allotment of meat directly from the farmer. In this way, you’re essentially investing in the farm and sharing some of the risks and benefits. The meat usually has been quick-frozen, and I provide you with tips on the best ways to thaw it safely so it remains juicy.

Pasture-Raised Beef, Bison, Lamb, Goats, and Veal. Inherent in sustainable meat production is the premise that cattle, bison, sheep, and goats are raised as nature intended—out in the pasture, where they are allowed to graze and forage. Because all grazing animals spend the first part of their weaned lives eating grass, it’s important to verify that farmers making grass-fed claims actually keep their animals in pasture for their entire lives and finish them on pasture and forage only. Farmers who follow sustainable practices also should move their animals continuously from one pasture to another so the animals don’t overgraze the land and so their natural fertilizer stimulates new growth and viable pasture, which readies the area for the next feeding rotation.

Meat producers who adhere to these practices may mention it on their labels or in their marketing materials, using such terms as grass fed, pasture raised, or raised outdoors. Although all these words imply the practice of allowing animals continuous and unconfined access to pasture throughout their life cycle, only grass (forage) fed is verifiable by the USDA Agricultural Marketing Service.

Pasture-Raised Pork. Pigs need a variety of foods—grains (corn or barley), soy, nuts, acorns, and even milk products like whey—to provide ample nutrients. The terms pasture raised and pastured mean the animals are raised outdoors where they belong, not crammed into cement buildings on a CAFO (concentrated animal feeding operation) pig farm.

Using This Book

In this book I’ve tried to supply you with knowledge about all the major cuts no matter what type of meat you choose. Within each chapter, I’ve organized recipes by type (steaks, roasts) and by the basic cooking method, with dry-heat methods followed by the slower moist-heat methods.

Each recipe is tagged with key words to help you to quickly identify the one that fits your needs. You may be cooking for your family or for a crowd. Sometimes you’re interested in comfort food; other times you want a recipe that’s fit for company.

If you’re in a hurry, you’ll find recipes here that take 30 minutes or less. There are also recipes for dishes that keep well, rewarm well, freeze well, and make great leftovers. Two-for-One recipes are designed to turn leftovers into a completely different dish. Recipes labeled Meat as a Condiment use less than 3 ounces of meat per portion. Other recipes were developed specifically for heirloom breeds—particularly heirloom pork—or for lean grass-fed beef, bison, lamb, and pasture-raised veal. (See [>] for lists of recipes by category.)

At the end of most recipes, brief notes give you ideas for flavorings or ingredients to substitute, serving suggestions, and occasionally, side dishes. Each recipe comes with alternative cuts that can be used instead of the one called for in the recipe.

And then there are the recipes that I call Great Meat Dishes of the World—important classics from various ethnic cuisines. Most of these are worthy of a special occasion and often include additional recipes for side dishes to make the experience complete. These—like all the recipes in this book—are a great way to share great meals with friends and family.

Buying, Storing, and Safe Handling

Seventy years ago—when our great-grandparents bought their meat at butcher shops—there would have been little need for a book telling them how to buy great meat. All they had to do was ask their butcher to recommend something good. If they weren’t happy, they would let him know or they’d take their business down the street to another shop.

As supermarkets became the place where most meat was sold, the neighborhood butcher shop was driven almost to extinction. Recently, however, butcher shops are making a comeback. These are not the butcher shops of old: instead they cater to folks looking for more than they might find at their local grocery store. Many of them specialize in grass-fed beef and lamb, pasture-raised pork from heirloom breeds, and more exotic meats, like bison and goat. Some sell organically raised meats as well. The butchers who own these shops are often chef types who got into meat cutting more as a passion than a trade. Because there are so few master butchers to learn from, most are self-trained. Often referring to themselves as artisans, they practice the time-honored ways of butchery, forming relationships with farmers and buying whole carcasses (especially pork and lamb). And though artisan shops are not the place to shop for budget packs of eight pork chops, you can ask these butchers for something good, just as your great-grandma did.

At the supermarket, though, getting advice from a knowledgeable butcher is becoming increasingly difficult. That is where this book can really help.

Judging Meat Quality

Appearance. In general, meat should have a consistent color: no purplish spots, no blemishes, and no discolored areas. Keep in mind that many service butcher cases use lights that make meat look particularly good. Make your assessments when the meat is out of the case. It should be well trimmed. A ¼-inch layer of fat on steaks, chops, and roasts is just right. Excess liquid in the Styrofoam tray indicates that the meat may have been frozen and thawed or, in the case of pork, it could also mean that the animal was improperly processed. With pork and some beef, it may mean that the meat has been pumped with a saltwater-phosphate solution. Or the package may have been sitting around too long.

Read the Label. If the meat has a store label, check it. The label won’t provide information about the grade, supplier, and other issues of quality, but it will help you to identify the cut and the area of the carcass, called a primal cut, that the piece of meat came from, so you can determine a suitable method of cooking.

It will also include the sell-by date. Do not buy meat beyond that date.

ABBREVIATIONS USED ON MEAT LABELS

Smell. Smell is the most important indicator of freshness. Fresh meat should smell fresh, with only a mild aroma. Meat packaged in a vacuum-sealed bag will have a stronger smell when removed from the bag, but it should not have any ammonia odors.

Touch. Meat should be firm to the touch, not soft and flabby. Soft meat may mean that the muscle fibers were damaged by improper freezing and/or thawing and are leaking moisture.

Storing Meat

Meat is very perishable, and it must be kept cold (32°F to 40°F) at all times. Particularly critical is the time between dropping the meat into your shopping cart and getting it into the refrigerator at home. Meat should be the last thing you add to your shopping cart. If it will take more than 20 to 30 minutes to get it into your refrigerator, bring a cooler and ice.

Meat stored at 38°F will keep longer than that stored at 42°F (most home refrigerators operate at 38°F, which is fine). If meat and other perishables are spoiling frequently in your refrigerator, use a thermometer to measure the temperature and adjust your thermostat accordingly. The temperature in your refrigerator should not exceed 40°F.

Store meat in the meat compartment, in its original packaging, for no more than 2 to 4 days. Make sure it sits below raw foods like lettuce, so it doesn’t drip on these foods.

Use meat that has been diced or ground—and organ meats like liver and sweetbreads—within 1 to 2 days. The sooner you cook the meat, the better. If you are not going to use the meat within these storage times, freeze it immediately.

Cooked meat will keep in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days.

Thawing Meat

Meat purchased at farmers’ markets, CSAs, over the Internet, or by mail-order is usually frozen. Keep it frozen until you’re ready to use it. After thawing, cook steaks, chops, and roasts within 2 days; cook ground meat within 1 day.

Thawing at room temperature on a counter is not safe, nor is thawing meat in hot water. There is much too high a risk of bacteria proliferating on the surface before the interior is thawed.

The Refrigerator. Frozen meat should be thawed as slowly as possible—i.e., in the refrigerator—to minimize cell damage and loss of juices. This involves some advance planning.

Individually wrapped steaks, chops, ground meat, and ribs need about 24 hours to thaw.

Roasts (as well as steaks and chops packed in large packages) take longer: A 4-pound roast or package of meat will take about 2 days; a big 5-bone prime rib (about 12 pounds) will take 4 to 5 days.

If time does not allow for refrigerator thawing, there are two other ways to safely thaw meat.

Cold Water. You can thaw meat in cold water. Make sure it is in a leakproof container such as a sturdy zipper-lock bag. Immerse the meat in a lot of cold water (I use a sink) and change the water every 30 minutes so that it doesn’t warm. With this method:

A 1-pound steak or 1-pound package of ground meat will take about 1 hour to thaw.

A 3- to 4-pound roast will take about 3 hours.

For larger roasts—5 pounds and up—allow about 30 minutes per pound.

Meat thawed in cold water should be refrigerated immediately and cooked the day it is thawed.

The Microwave. You can thaw small packages of meat (under 2 pounds) in the microwave, but it will thaw unevenly and there will be areas that become warm or even start to cook. Before thawing in the microwave, remove the meat from its packaging and place it on a plate or in a microwavable container. Use the defrost function and check the meat frequently.

Meat thawed in a microwave should be cooked immediately.

Freezing Meat

The more quickly meat is frozen, the less chance there is that ice crystals will form, and less damage will be done to the muscle tissue.

Meat is frozen commercially in special quick freezers that maintain a temperature of -20°F to -40°F. Home freezers operate at about 0°F to 10°F, so they will never be as effective as commercial ones, but you can do a few things to freeze meat successfully at home:

Remove the meat from its packaging.

Put steaks, chops, and ribs in individual zipper-lock freezer bags, being sure to squeeze out as much air as possible, or seal them in vacuum bags. Airtight packages help prevent freezer burn. (Freezer burn is characterized by dry, brown, leathery patches on the meat’s surface. The meat will not taste good and it should be discarded.)

Label and date the packages.

Don’t stack the packages when you place them in the freezer. Ideally, each one should be on its own shelf, so the cold air can circulate around it, but in a pinch, you can put a new package on top of a frozen one. Once all the meat is frozen, you can stack the packages.

Meat does not last forever in the freezer. It will lose quality, and the fats will oxidize and taste rancid.

Use frozen ground meats and raw sausages within 3 months.

Use frozen steaks, chops, ribs, and other small pieces within 3 months.

Use frozen roasts within 6 months.

Use frozen ham, bacon, and smoked sausages within 3 months.

Use frozen cooked meats within 3 months.

Refreezing Meat

You can refreeze meat that has been thawed in the refrigerator as long as it has been kept cold at all times and is refrozen within 2 days (preferably less) for solid meat, or within 1 day for ground meat. There will be a loss in the quality because some moisture will be purged from the meat fibers, but the meat will be safe to eat.

Cooking Frozen Meat

In a pinch, you can cook smaller pieces—such as steaks, chops, and pre-formed burger patties—from frozen, especially if you don’t mind well-done meat. The outer edges of the meat will be very well done by the time the center thaws and begins to cook. And cooking times will be about 50 percent longer.

Don’t try to cook larger pieces, like roasts, from the freezer.

Safe Handling

Because meat is perishable and can have bacteria on its surface, basic rules of cleanliness and hygiene should be observed.

Clean Your Work Surfaces. Bacteria left on surfaces that raw meat has touched can contaminate other foods you prepare (salad greens, for example), so always clean your work space after preparing meat. Get a separate cutting board that you use only for meat and that you scrub diligently after every use, or—better still—buy a cutting board that you can run through the dishwasher to sanitize after every use. Sponges and towels are great vehicles for spreading bacteria, so make sure they are well washed in hot soapy water after coming in contact with meat or the cutting board. I always run my sponges through the dishwasher, and I use paper towels to clean up meat juices and debris.

Your hands count as a surface, too; wash them well with soap and hot water before and after handling raw meat.

Cook Meat Thoroughly. The USDA defines a minimum safe internal temperature of 145°F for cooked steaks, chops, and roasts and 160°F for cooked ground meat. I don’t always agree with this advice. At 145°F, meat is cooked to medium doneness, which not everyone, myself included, cares for.

If you let meat come to room temperature before cooking it—as I recommend in my recipes—surface bacteria can grow, but when you sear and brown it, any surface bacteria will be destroyed. However, if you prefer to err on the side of caution, you can cook the meat directly from the refrigerator.

Take Special Care When Cooking Ground Meat. This is another story. Here, each individual particle of meat and fat has been exposed to the germ-filled environment of the butcher shop or packinghouse where it was ground. While the surface bacteria on a steak is destroyed by cooking, bacteria in the interior of a hamburger can still be viable and dangerous. The USDA recommendation of 160°F internal temperature, or well-done, ensures safety.

If you are a fan of medium-rare burgers, grind your own meat (see [>]); it will reduce the risk of bacterial contamination.

Keep Cooked Food Hot. The danger zone is between 40°F and 140°F, so don’t let cooked meat sit on a buffet for more than an hour. A better solution is to keep it in a chafing dish, where the temperature will exceed 140°F at all times. Don’t take chances: When in doubt, throw it out. The damage done by spoilage bacteria is not reversible; reheating will not help.

Handle Marinades Safely. Many of my recipes use marinades to flavor the meat. Any bacteria present in the meat will transfer to the marinade as they sit together. You have two options if you want to use a marinade to baste meat or make a sauce:

Set some of the marinade aside before it comes into contact with raw meat.

Bring used marinade to a full boil before using it again.

Cooking Flavorful Meat

My guess is that you bought this book so you could learn to prepare flavorful meat dishes. My goal is not to disappoint you. In each chapter, you’ll find recipes that use the full arsenal of cooking methods to achieve consistently tender and delicious meat dishes inspired by cuisines from all over the globe.

Dry-Heat Versus Moist-Heat Cooking

There are two basic ways to apply heat to meat: dry heat and moist heat.

Dry-heat cooking methods, in which heat is applied directly to the meat, include grilling (not barbecuing), broiling, pan-broiling, sauteing, panfrying, stir-frying, deep-frying, and roasting (including indirect grilling, which is also called grill-roasting, and spit-roasting).

Dry heat is the ideal way to cook tender cuts such as steaks, roasts, chops, and cutlets as well as burgers and sausages. Most of these come from the middle of the animal, although a few are found in the shoulder and hip (sirloin). Since water and fat get squeezed out of the muscle as it cooks, lean meats such as grass-fed beef, veal, bison, and commodity pork, will become drier and tougher as they become more well done.

Dry-heat cooking makes meat flavorful because it allows the surface to brown. The browning causes a series of chemical changes (called the Maillard reaction) to occur, adding robust, meaty flavors. To contribute even more flavor, the meat can be seasoned with a spice rub, spice paste, or marinade.

Moist-heat cooking methods include braising, stewing, pot-roasting, pressure-cooking, steaming, poaching, barbecuing, and slow-roasting. Moist-heat cooking is ideal for tougher cuts such as brisket, neck, shanks, ribs, and shoulder. Moisture in the form of steam or hot liquid softens tough collagen and turns it into soft gelatin. The softening begins at 160°F. At well-done temperatures, water is expelled from muscle tissue as well, and the meat can dry out unless there is ample intramuscular fat or connective tissue to provide a moist mouthfeel. Well-marbled cuts make for a juicier moist-heat-cooked dish than do lean cuts. However, some cuts that are rich in collagen but lack a lot of intramuscular fat—such as beef shanks or shoulder cuts of bison—can also yield tender and succulent results.

Although barbecuing and slow-roasting don’t involve adding water, they are considered moist-heat cooking because the low temperatures (between 200°F and 250°F) keep the moisture within the meat itself, where it gently transforms the collagen to gelatin.

Moist-heat cooking doesn’t allow for the surface of the meat to reach the temperature necessary for a full Maillard reaction, but there are other ways to create great taste. The meat is usually browned first, which does impart a deep flavor to the exterior. Then the meat is slowly cooked in a seasoned liquid, where its flavors commingle with the cooking liquid, resulting in dishes as subtle as veal ragu or as intense as lamb curry.

Grilling and Barbecuing

Today there are many great choices for both charcoal and gas-fired grills. Provided I have the time and energy, I prefer my trusty kettle-style charcoal grill, because I like the extra-smoky flavors that charcoal imparts. I always use hardwood charcoal rather than briquettes, because it burns hotter and longer. (Where I live, mesquite is the most common and popular hardwood.) But if I’m feeling lazy or am in a hurry, I fire up my gas grill, which works fine for chops, steaks, and burgers. The drippings hitting the flames provide adequate grilled flavors, and it’s easy to regulate the heat source. Best of all, there are no ashes to clean out and dispose of. All the grilling recipes in this book can be made with either a charcoal or gas grill with excellent results.

MY TIPS FOR GRILLING

Wear shoes, not sandals. Embers can pop through vents and burn your feet.

Buy some welder’s gloves; they’re great for handling hot items.

Invest in restaurant-quality spring-loaded tongs. I like the Rosle brand. (Avoid Father’s Day grilling tool sets; they’re too flimsy.)

Build a fire with varying areas of heat intensity and move the meat if flare-ups occur.

If the meat is cooking too fast, move it to an area with less intense heat. Turning and moving meat around is what grilling is all about. Burned meat is the hallmark of an inexperienced griller.

Never judge doneness by color. Instead, measure the internal temperature with an accurate meat thermometer. Steaks thinner than ½ inch thick are too thin to reliably test with a thermometer, so make a little nick into them with your knife to check.

Always let steaks rest for at least 5 minutes before serving.

How to Direct-Grill

On a Charcoal Grill

Create a fire of varying degrees of intensity by layering the coals once they are glowing. Areas that are two or three layers or more thick will have intense heat, while areas one layer thick will produce moderate heat. Leave an area with no coals to which you can move meat if flare-ups occur.

To test the intensity of the high-heat area, hold your hand just above the grate. You should be able to hold it there only to the count of 2. If the coals are not hot enough, wait for them to heat a bit more or pile on more coals.

Continue to heat until the grate is very hot, 3 to 4 minutes, then oil the grill by moistening a paper towel with vegetable oil and, using tongs to hold the towel, rub it all over the grate. Make sure the vents in the bottom and the lid of the grill are fully open. (You can grill directly without using the lid, but I prefer to use it, because it helps reduce the risk of flare-ups.)

Lay the meat over the high-heat area and immediately cover the grill. If flare-ups occur, close the vents in the top of the grill, which will cut off the airflow. If the flames continue, move the meat to an area with less-intense heat and wait for the flames to die down. Return the meat to the intense heat and reopen the vents. Grill the meat for about 2 minutes per side, or until deeply brown but not charred. (If the meat begins to char before 2 minutes, flip it.) Check the internal temperature with an accurate thermometer (see [>] for my recommendations). If the meat is not done to your liking, move it to a less-intense area and continue to grill until it reaches the desired temperature. Always let the meat rest so that the carry-over, or residual, heat completes the cooking and the juices are reabsorbed.

On a Gas Grill

For gas grills with three or four burners, preheat all the burners, then adjust them so you have one section at full heat, another at moderate heat, and a third with no heat. Follow the same method as for charcoal, moving the meat if it cooks too quickly and chars. After searing the meat, if it’s not done, finish cooking it over moderate heat with the grill closed. For two-section grills, set up a high-heat section and a moderate-heat section and move the meat if flare-ups occur. If flare-ups continue, shut off one section and move the meat there. When the flames subside, move the meat back over the area of high heat to finish cooking.

How to Indirect-Grill (Grill-Roast)

On a Charcoal Grill

Spread two or three layers of hot coals over half of the grill. For smaller cuts, such as steaks or chops, sear the meat. (It is not necessary to sear large roasts, because the meat will be on the grill for long enough to brown.) Bank the coals on opposite sides of the grill and center a drip pan underneath (or between the coals). Place the meat over the drip pan, so that there is no fire directly under it. Insert a cable-type digital continuous-read meat thermometer (see [>]) into the center of the meat, making sure the cable is not over direct heat.

Cover the grill and follow the recipe for timing to your preferred level of doneness. You may have to add more coals for larger roasts. Control the temperature of the grill by opening and closing the bottom and top vents. During the roasting, add soaked wood chunks or chips to the fire to give the meat a smoky flavor if you wish. If the meat is to be glazed, move the coals so they cover half of the grill, brush on the glaze or sauce, place the meat directly over the fire, and sear until the sauce forms a bubbly glaze. For larger cuts, such as hams or a large roast, you can simply brush the glaze onto the meat for the last 15 to 20 minutes of its grill-roasting time.

On a Gas Grill

Indirect grilling is much easier on a gas grill than on a charcoal grill. Preheat all burners on high for about 15 minutes. For two-burner grills, shut off one of the burners. For three- or four-burner grills, leave the outer burners on and shut off the middle burner(s). Set smaller cuts, such as back ribs, rack of lamb, or tri-tip, directly over the fire and sear all over. Larger cuts don’t need to be seared. Place the seared meat in a roasting pan and center it over the unlit section of the grill. Insert a cable-type digital continuous-read thermometer into the center of the meat, making sure the cable is not over direct heat, and close the grill. If you want a smoky flavor, add soaked hardwood chips to the smoke box if your grill has one; otherwise, place the chips in a clean tuna can and, using tongs, set the can over a burner. Replace the soaked chips periodically as they are used up. Adjust the burners so that the temperature of the grill is between 325°F and 375°F, or whatever the recipe specifies.

To glaze larger pieces of meat, such as ham or Boston butt, apply the sauce or glaze during the last 15 to 20 minutes of cooking and turn up the burners to create a grill temperature of 400°F. To glaze small pieces, such as a slab of back ribs or rack of lamb, apply the glaze and then cook the meat over direct heat until the glaze is bubbly and browned.

How to Barbecue

A slower form of indirect grilling, true barbecuing is actually a type of moist-heat cooking. Barbecuing is best done in the range of 200°F to 275°F: The internal temperature of the apparatus should not exceed 275°F. With gas grills, it may be difficult to maintain such a low temperature, so consult your owner’s manual or test the grill by letting it run (without the meat) for an hour or more to see if you can keep the temperature that low.

If you plan to do a lot of barbecuing, I recommend purchasing an apparatus designed for low-temperature cooking. Good choices are a water smoker, Big Green Egg, or a Texas barbecue (see Sources), where the heat source is off to the side.

To use a kettle-style grill, set it up as you would for indirect grilling, but use only about 30 briquettes. Place a roasting pan between the two banks of coals and add 2 to 3 inches of water. Wrap 2 to 3 cups of soaked wood chips or chunks in aluminum foil, puncture the packet with lots of holes, and set over the coals. Put in the grate and set the meat over the drip pan.

Cover the grill. If your grill does not have a thermometer, place a dial-type instant-read thermometer (see [>]) in a partially closed vent hole.

At first the internal temperature may be 300°F, but it should settle down to between 200°F and 250°F after 30 minutes. If it’s still too hot, partially close the lower vents of the grill. As you barbecue, add more coals as needed and, when the smoke packet is used up, add two or three more packets, one at a time, depending on how smoky you want the meat. A slab of spareribs should take 3 to 4 hours, while a 6-pound Boston butt (pork shoulder butt) will take 8 to 10 hours.

Flavor Steps

The cooking method helps make meat flavorful, but it is the seasonings and marinades that give meat its unique taste profile and produce countless delicious dishes. Almost every recipe in this book begins with a flavor step. The most basic is a good sprinkling of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add more herbs and/or spices, and you have a dry rub. Moisten the seasoning with oil, lemon juice, wine, yogurt, or other liquid ingredients, and you’ve got a spice paste. Combine spices, soy sauce, vinegar, olive oil, beer, fruit juice, or other liquids, and you have a marinade. Make a solution of water, salt, sugar, and other ingredients, and you have a flavor brine.

WHEN SHOULD YOU SALT?

Some books say you shouldn’t add salt to meat before cooking because salting it can draw out the juices. It’s true that salting the meat and letting it sit for a day or so will eventually cause it to release moisture. But when you add salt just before cooking, it combines with the compounds produced when the meat is browned and helps highlight those wonderful savory flavors. Salting the meat after cooking it, on the other hand, has the effect of just adding a layer of salt, and the result is a less complex flavor profile.

How to Judge When Meat Is Done

Knowing how to tell when meat is done to your liking is the most important lesson you can learn from this book. If you have been relying on time tables to determine when a piece of meat has reached your desired level of doneness, Stop! Time-based criteria for determining doneness are just plain unreliable.

Four factors determine how long it takes for a piece of meat to cook:

The internal temperature of the meat when you begin cooking it.

The vagaries of your heat source (ovens aren’t reliable; just because you set your oven thermostat to 350°F doesn’t mean the oven is in fact at 350°F).

The shape of the piece of meat you are cooking (diameter is more important than length).

The composition of the meat: lean meat cooks more quickly than fattier meat.

Doneness is accurately determined by one variant: the internal temperature of the meat you are cooking. To measure this, you need an accurate thermometer. There are many choices, and I have my favorites (see below). Some cost less than $10, while others can be more than $100. For $15 to $30, you can purchase a thermometer that will be more than adequate for getting the job done. But please, don’t cheap out: You will regret it. All it takes to learn this lesson is to ruin one expensive Christmas prime rib.

Thermometers

Continuous-Read Thermometers

Often simply called meat thermometers, these are meant to be left in the meat as it roasts in the oven, continuously showing the internal temperature. One type is made of all metal and has a dial. Most are hopelessly inaccurate and don’t even begin measuring temperature until 140°F, well beyond rare and medium-rare. Another type is made of glass; these are inaccurate, break easily, and get coated with burnt-on grease. If you have one of these, throw it away.

If I were to recommend only one thermometer, it would be a digital continuous-read thermometer with a wire cable that allows you to monitor the meat without opening the oven door. Sometimes these are called digital oven-cord thermometers. The thermometer allows you to preset the internal temperature you want. When it is reached, an alarm sounds. Some even have a remote unit you can carry with you so that you can hear the alarm in another room. Most of these include a timer as well. You can also use these thermometers outside the oven to check thinner pieces of meat. The probe needs to be inserted only ½ inch into the food. There are several brands, and most cost $30 or less.

A couple of caveats:

The cable probes don’t last forever and can break if they come in contact with direct heat (such as the flames of a gas or charcoal grill), so make sure to buy a couple of replacements.

Some come programmed with settings for rare, medium-rare, and the like. These are based on USDA recommendations and should be ignored. Instead, use the temperatures I suggest in the recipes.

These thermometers break easily if dropped.

Instant-Read Thermometers

Dial-type instant-read thermometers have a plastic cover and cannot be left in food while it cooks. They require 15 to 20 seconds to get a reading. The probe must be inserted 3 inches into the food, so they don’t work well with thinner pieces of meat. They are not always accurate and may be off plus or minus 5°F. But they are inexpensive (about $8) and sturdy and usually survive being dropped.

Made of metal and plastic and battery-driven, digital instant-read thermometers cannot be left in food while it is cooking, either. They require only about 10 seconds to get a reading. The sensing thermistor is right at the tip of the probe, so it needs to penetrate only about ½ inch into food to get a reading, and it can be used for thin as well as thick cuts of meat. These thermometers do break easily if dropped, and some models require hard-to-find batteries. Look for models with an on/off switch.

I prefer the digital instant-read to the dial-type instant-read thermometer because it’s more versatile (can be used for thin and thick cuts of meat), easier to read, and usually more accurate. It costs only a few dollars more than the dial-type.

If you want a thermometer that works very quickly and gives great results, thermocouple digital thermometers are the way to go. These, too, have a plastic cover and cannot be left in food while cooking. They are very accurate and fast, requiring only 2 to 5 seconds to register a reading. They have a very thin probe right at the tip and so need to be inserted only ¼ inch into thin cuts. Because of their speed, they are ideal for checking the temperature in several locations to make sure food is cooked evenly, which is very useful for large cuts, such as rib roasts, pork legs, and legs of lamb. The drawbacks are that they are expensive and often very large. However, there are some pocket ones (see opposite page).

MY FAVORITE MEAT THERMOMETERS

Thermapen by ThermoWorks (about $90): You can’t beat this one. Although it costs more than most digital instant-reads, it is sturdy and won’t break when dropped. Moisture resistant. Quicker and more accurate than other digital instant-reads.

ThermoWorks Original Cooking Thermometer/Timer (about $19): The heatproof cable allows you to leave this digital continuous-read thermometer in the meat throughout cooking. Holds up well and functions reliably.

Digital instant-read thermometer (about $15). I don’t have a favorite brand, but the ThermoWorks pocket digital thermometer is reliable.

How to Use a Thermometer

Measure the temperature at the coolest part of the meat, which is at the center, or half the distance of the diameter. Avoid placing the probe next to the bones. For large roasts, take several readings along the central axis at various points. Check thin cuts, such as chops, steaks, and burgers, by pushing the probe through the side; you’ll get much more reliable results. Lift the piece of meat out of the pan or off the grill so that you can stick the probe at least 2 to 3 inches into the meat without burning yourself.

If you are using a cable-type continuous-read thermometer, set it to the desired temperature. Insert the probe into the center of the roast and make sure it is not touching any bones. Once the alarm goes off, use the probe to check a couple other areas to make sure they have come up to temperature. The probe will be quite hot, so use insulated gloves or a pot holder to grab it.

LETTING MEAT COME TO ROOM TEMPERATURE

Many recipes for cooking meat with dry heat tell you to let the meat rest on the counter until it comes to room temperature. I decided to see exactly what that means, because I too subscribe to letting meat warm to ensure even cooking and reduce cooking time. I compared two relatively small roasts, weighing 3.78 pounds and 2.24 pounds, allowing them to warm in a 70°F room after removing them from a 38°F refrigerator. After 3¾ hours, the smaller roast had reached an internal temperature of only 60°F—10 degrees less than room temperature.

Even though the meat will probably not warm up to room temperature, it’s still very important to let it sit at room temperature. Follow the times that I’ve given in the recipes. The interior may warm to only 50°F or so, but the meat will cook more evenly and the cooking time will be shorter.

CONVECTION OVENS

Many new ovens come equipped with a convection option. Convection ovens have a fan in the back to move hot air around. As a result, they are more efficient at cooking food than radiant-heat (nonconvection) ovens set at the same temperature. Also, because the hot air is constantly moving, convection ovens heat food more evenly. All this is good news, especially for roasting. The truth is I almost never use anything but my convection oven for roasting. However, because there was no way for me to know if you have one in your home, I tested all the recipes in this book using a nonconvection oven.

ADAPTING MY RECIPES TO CONVECTION OVENS

Experts recommend that if using a convection oven, you lower the temperature by 25°F and expect things to be done a little faster. I don’t do this.

For a small roast (such as rack of lamb, tri-tip, and beef tenderloin), I roast at 400°F.

For a larger roast, weighing 5 pounds or more (such as leg of lamb, prime rib, and top loin roast), I roast at 350°F for the entire time.

For a relatively lean roast (such as pork loin, leg of pork, beef sirloin tip, cross-rib, and top sirloin), I roast at 325°F.

For low-temperature cooking (200°F to 250°F), as in recipes intended to allow lean grass-fed beef and bison to cook evenly with a minimum of moisture loss, I cook at the recommended temperature and check for doneness sooner.

For pot roasts and other braises, I cook at the temperature recommended in the recipe and check for doneness sooner.

In all cases, roasts are done more quickly in a convection oven. Since cooking times vary widely—from as little as 15 minutes for a rack of lamb to 2 to 3 hours for a large prime rib—I can’t give you good advice for how much less time meat will take in a convection oven. I absolutely recommend that you invest in a cable-type digital continuous-read thermometer (see [>]) and set it to alert you when your roast is done. If you are using an instant-read thermometer, begin testing earlier than recommended in the recipe.

Letting Meat Rest and Heat Carryover

It is very important that meat be allowed to rest after being removed from the heat source. Two things happen: Juices are reabsorbed from the surface to the interior, and the carry-over heat causes the internal temperature to rise 5 to 20 degrees.

Large pieces of meat have greater carry-over heat because they hold their heat longer than smaller pieces of meat. Additionally, the hotter the heat source is when the meat is cooked, the hotter the surface of the meat will be and the greater the heat carryover. Meat cooked in a 250°F oven will have only 5°F or less heat carryover, while meat cooked in a 450°F oven may have as much as 20°F of heat carryover. If you roast in a convection oven, there will be more carry-over cooking.

The resting times suggested in each recipe allow for the cooking to be completed and the meat to be still hot when served. For large roasts (8 pounds or more), I recommend resting times of up to 40 minutes. These roasts will hold their heat even longer than that. So, if you are not quite done cooking the rest of the meal, just make sure your roast is tented with aluminum foil while you finish everything up, and it will still be sufficiently hot when you serve it.

About Ingredients

Fats

Oil. An inexpensive olive oil is fine for cooking and sauteing; a good extra-virgin is best for dressings and condiments. When it comes to vegetable oil for pan-frying and deep-frying, I prefer mild-flavored oils like peanut or canola.

Lard. Lard is excellent for panfrying and deep-frying. Never use hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated brands like Armour; hydrogenated fats are bad for you. Either make your own (see [>]) or buy nonhydrogenated lard, which you can find in ethnic markets (particularly Mexican markets that may even make their own) and farmers’ markets.

Bacon Fat. Some of my recipes, such as those for braises and stews, call for you to reserve the bacon fat because it adds great flavor. You can also substitute bacon fat for lard or oil when browning meat. But because bacon fat has already been cooked at a high temperature, it isn’t stable enough for deep-frying.

Butter. I prefer unsalted butter, because I like its taste. If you use salted butter, reduce the salt in the recipe. I never use margarine (I don’t like the taste or the mouthfeel); you shouldn’t either.

Herbs

Most of my recipes call for fresh herbs, which are now available year-round in most markets. I never use dried rosemary, parsley, cilantro, or chervil, because I don’t like the taste. If you can’t find them fresh, leave them out.

If you must substitute dried herbs like thyme, oregano, or marjoram, use half as much. Dried herbs lose most of their flavor in about a month, so it’s best to purchase small quantities; store them in airtight jars and replace them frequently.

Salt

I cook with Diamond Crystal kosher salt, which is lighter by volume than Morton kosher salt or table salt. Here’s how it plays out: 1 cup of Diamond Crystal weighs 5 ounces; 1 cup of Morton kosher salt weighs 8 ounces; and 1 cup of regular table salt weighs 10 ounces.

If you use Morton kosher salt, reduce the recipe’s amount by 25 percent.

If you use table salt, reduce the recipe’s amount by 50 percent.

Spices

Black Pepper. Ground black pepper loses its potency after a few hours. Always grind it fresh.

Other Spices. For best flavor, buy spices like cumin, coriander, allspice, and fennel whole and grind them fresh for each recipe. Once ground, most spices lose their flavor and potency quickly. Ground spices should be replaced after 2 to 3 months. I usually buy spices from a spice dealer (see Sources) or an Indian, Middle Eastern, or Mexican market that offers lots of spices and turns its inventory frequently.

Stocks and Broths

Homemade stocks are best. You’ll find a recipe for Basic Meat Stock on [>]. If time doesn’t permit you to make stock from scratch, use canned low-sodium chicken broth (Swanson works well). Canned stocks or broths all contain salt in varying amounts, so when making a sauce, don’t add additional salt until the sauce has reduced and reached the correct viscosity; taste before adding.

Remember: Good cookin’ is worth livin’!

BEEF AND BISON

Recipes

STEAKS

Great Meat Dishes of the World: Steak House Grilled Rib Eye with Flavored Butter [>]