Flat Out Delicious: Your Definitive Guide to Saskatchewan’s Food Artisans

Flat Out Delicious

Your Definitive Guide to Saskatchewan’s Food Artisans

Jenn Sharp

Photography by Richard Marjan

For my Grandma Reg and Grandpa Bert. You are always with me.

For all those in Saskatchewan passionately helping to build a thriving local food system.

Table of Contents

Cover

Title Page

Dedication

Table of Contents

Introduction

Northern Saskatchewan

Northern Saskatchewan Artisans

Northern Saskatchewan Farmers' Markets

Northern Saskatchewan Watering Holes

Saskatchewan’s Wild Rice

West Central Saskatchewan

West Central Saskatchewan Artisans

West Central Saskatchewan Farmers' Markets

West Central Saskatchewan Watering Holes

On the Hunt

Saskatoon

Saskatoon Artisans

Saskatoon Farmers' Markets

Saskatoon Watering Holes

East Central Saskatchewan

East Central Saskatchewan Artisans

East Central Saskatchewan Farmers' Markets

Chanterelle Mushrooms

Southeast Saskatchewan

Southeast Saskatchewan Artisans

Southeast Saskatchewan Farmers' Markets

Southeast Saskatchewan Watering Holes

Harvest on the Farm

Regina

Regina Artisans

Regina Farmers' Markets

Regina Watering Holes

Southwest Saskatchewan

Southwest Saskatchewan Artisans

Southwest Saskatchewan Farmer's Markets

Southwest Saskatchewan Watering Holes

Fruit in Saskatchewan

Acknowledgements

Recommended Resources

Introduction

Saskatchewan is called the Land of Living Skies because sunrise and sunset on these vast prairie landscapes are like nothing you’ve seen before. Some may call us flat and boring, but if you take the time to truly feel and experience Saskatchewan, this land will become part of your soul.

Growing food in the province is closely tied to that light. Animals have adapted and plants have evolved to thrive during hot summers where the sun sets after 8 pm and during the cold, short winter days. So too have the people. Everyone who visits us agrees: Saskatchewanians are the friendliest people in Canada. We have to be nice to each other in part to make it through -40°c! I also think our welcoming spirit comes from living in a place where the land feels limitless and your nearest neighbour might be miles away. While today the cities are home to the majority of the province’s population of just over a million, many have rural roots that trace back generations—to a time when you always helped your neighbour especially during a frozen winter or a summer drought. (My great-grandma’s family was fortunate to have a deep well of clean spring water during the Great Depression and didn’t hesitate in sharing that liquid gold with people in need.)

Saskatchewan has a rich Indigenous history. Archaeologists have dated the first human settlements to 9,500 bce. In the late 1700s, when the first European contact happened, there were four groups of inhabitants: the Cree, the Assiniboine, the Salteaux, and the Dene. Their descendants live on today, many of them working tirelessly to maintain their traditional ways of life for their families and communities.

Unfortunately, there aren’t (yet) many places to explore authentic Indigenous cuisine. The best spot in Saskatchewan is at Wanuskewin Heritage Park, where the executive chef works with elders to create modern dishes that respect and incorporate traditional ingredients—some of which are foraged from the surrounding Opimihaw Valley.

Over the years, Saskatchewan has welcomed newcomers from many regions of the world, from Eastern Europe and Asia to Central America and Africa. You’ll see evidence of those diverse cultures throughout the province, especially in our ethnic eateries. Here, you can find Indian curry, Vietnamese spring rolls, Ukrainian borscht, and Mexican tamales. Nearly every Saskatchewan small town has a Chinese restaurant where you can order ginger beef alongside dry ribs and fries. The first Chinese immigrants began arriving in the 1880s, travelling east from bc after the Canadian Pacific Railway was completed. These immigrants helped establish towns along the new railway, many opening restaurants and laundries.

For a truly authentic Chinese dining experience, visit Jin Jin Cuisine Dumpling in Saskatoon, where the owner will encourage you to try the homemade dumplings and spicy chicken with chili peppers.

When I first talked to TouchWood Editions about this project, I hoped I would be able to find a hundred food artisans to profile. I had written about food in Saskatchewan for several years, focusing mainly on chefs and farmers in and around Regina and Saskatoon. I didn’t know a lot about what was happening outside of those centres. So I started researching, asking chefs about their suppliers, talking to other food writers, and talking to farmers who then told me stories about their neighbours.

I began mapping out a big road trip, close to 20,000 kilometres all told, that would take photographer Richard Marjan and me as far north as Dore Lake and as far south as Minton on a heart-opening journey across this flat-out gorgeous province.

I launched a social media project, Flat Out Food, as a place to share the stories I learned along the way, to help promote small-scale producers and as a resource for consumers. I also began telling those stories through my column of the same name in the Saskatoon StarPhoenix and the Regina Leader-Post, along with regular features for cbc Saskatchewan and Eat North.

Local media was incredibly supportive of Flat Out Food. During the summer of 2018, I did several radio and TV interviews about the road trip and subsequent book. Thanks to that exposure, I had calls and emails from across the province from people recommending I stop in Wadena for a Boston cream doughnut or at the Osler Restaurant, a prime example of Saskatchewan’s eclectic multiculturalism and likely the only place you can order butter chicken, cheese fondue, and a plate of kielke.

It boggled my mind. And my fears about not being able to find a hundred artisans quickly turned to an overwhelming feeling that I’d gotten myself in over my head. As it stands now, Flat Out Delicious, has 167 food artisan profiles. There could have been over 200 but I couldn’t include everyone. I visited each person in this book, ate each chef’s food, got to know each farmer’s animals, and felt the dirt in each vegetable garden. It’s for those reasons that I can personally recommend you support the artisans included in these pages.

Saskatchewan has an unbelievable number of people quietly doing their thing and contributing to a vibrant local food system. People here are known for their humbleness; bragging and boasting won’t take you far in Saskatchewan. But that’s part of the reason we’re sometimes overlooked on the national scene when it comes to our culinary accomplishments. Beyond being the bread basket of the world or so flat you can see your dog running away for three miles, what does the rest of the country know about us? And perhaps more importantly, what do we know? These are some of the questions I sought to answer.

Flat Out Delicious is about reconnecting us with our food, where it comes from and who is growing it. We weren’t always separated from our food; farm-to-table was the norm for most of our grandparents. But these days many communities are overflowing with chain restaurants serving cheap, prepackaged food made off-site and chock full of preservatives and dyes. And many of us aren’t sure where to even start in finding foods grown by local farmers. It’s time to return home.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned while writing this book, it’s that your diet—whether you’re vegan or carnivore—is not the determining factor when it comes to health, environmental, and economic impacts. What matters more is the way your food was grown and raised, and how far it had to travel to get to your plate. The bonus to buying food grown close to home is that it’s often more nutritionally dense, which equals more bang for your buck. Meat producers usually offer affordable bulk buying options, too.

It’s difficult for small-scale producers in Saskatchewan to compete with grocery stores’ prices and buying power. It’s expensive to grow food here and it’s expensive to pay a living wage to agricultural workers. That’s why food shipped here from Central America is so cheap—farmers there are paid next to nothing. It’s the definition of modern-day slavery. There is always a cost behind cheap food.

Melanie and Kevin Boldt own Pine View Farms (page 85). Melanie says their prices are higher than in large grocery stores and explains why: We price our meat based on what it costs us to raise that animal, process it, put it in the bag, pay all our expenses, and pay ourselves a living wage. You’re getting the true cost of your food. Because something always pays for cheap food—whether it’s the environment, the farmer, worker standards, or government subsidies that make food cheaper—and the taxpayer pays for that in the end.

I encourage you, dear reader, to get curious. Ask questions. Think of the food you’re eating as being as important as your choice of doctor or your children’s school. The best part about it is that you have the power to support a food system that will benefit Saskatchewan. The more money you spend at the farmgate store, the local farmers’ market, on a community supported agriculture (csa) subscription, on value-added prairie food products, at local grocers stocking Saskatchewan ingredients, and at independent restaurants doing their best to support Saskatchewan farmers, the more you will help build a robust local food system to be proud of.

To those readers who live in Saskatchewan, I hope these stories will make you proud. I think it’s time to trade a little of our quiet humbleness for some well-earned bragging! To readers from farther away, I hope this book will change some of your assumptions about Saskatchewan. We are anything but flat and boring.

HOW THIS BOOK IS ORGANIZED

During the summer and fall of 2018, photographer Richard Marjan and I travelled all over Saskatchewan, visiting the artisans you’ll read about here. And we barely scratched the surface of what our province has to offer. If you’re coming to Saskatchewan to visit, be prepared to come back again and again once this expansive, soulful place and its welcoming people have pulled you in. From the clean northern lakes to some of the world’s last remaining native grasslands in the south, we’ve got it all. Each region has a rich history and cultural gems to discover, along with unique food and restaurants.

Flat Out Delicious is divided into five regions: Northern, West Central, East Central, Southwest, and Southeast, along with a dedicated section for both Saskatoon and Regina. Each section’s artisan profiles are organized alphabetically with maps telling you where to find the ones that welcome visitors. You can also page through the book in search of specific foods or experiences: artisan products; baked goods; tea and coffee; farmers’ markets; foragers; fruits and vegetables; grains, seeds, and pulses; meat and poultry; cooking schools; and specialty foods.

You’ll find eateries featured in association with chefs and restaurateurs. And each region has a watering holes section that lists fruit wineries, meaderies, distilleries, and breweries.

SASKATCHEWAN TERROIR

Terroir is a French term that means earth or soil. It also means a taste of place and can be traced to French winemakers attempting to understand the differences in wines through physical characteristics like the soil, climate, location, sunshine, and altitude.

The term is also used to describe food. It can come across as uppity but it doesn’t have to. Saskatchewan’s terroir is unique, and we are just beginning to understand and appreciate that. Our harsh climate has meant only the strong survive. The plants and animals that have evolved to thrive here embody a distinct taste-of-place.

Bison are a perfect example. Their story dates back to the ice age, when bison herds dominated North America. They successfully adapted to a warming climate and over thousands of years provided food, shelter, tools, and fuel for the Indigenous people, who revered them. These herds also played an integral role in the regenerative cycle that maintained grasslands and soil health.

In 1800, it’s estimated over 60 million animals roamed from as far south as Mexico to as far north as Alaska. After European settlers arrived, a combination of overhunting and disease spelled disaster for the bison. By the turn of the century, less than a thousand animals remained.

Today, thanks to vigorous conservation efforts, there are about 225,000 bison in Canada and 250,000 in the United States. The wild herds, which number roughly 8,000 animals, live in parks and public lands. A leader in bison conservation, Les Kroeger, is profiled in this book (Rosedale Bison, page 87).

Saskatchewan is likely the coldest climate in the world where berry and fruit breeding thrives (via the University of Saskatchewan Fruit Program). Saskatchewan’s wild mushrooms, like chanterelles and morels, are beloved for their small size, robust colour, and flavour. Fruits and vegetables taste sweeter here. Ancient grains grown here, like Red Fife wheat, spelt, and kamut, have a depth of flavour not found outside the province. Our mustard is strong, our alfalfa honey is floral, and our lentils earthy.

Our taste-of-place is also thanks to the legions of immigrants who have settled here during the last century, bringing their foods and cooking styles and integrating those with Saskatchewan ingredients. Saskatchewan truly is a multicultural melting pot, a place where you can taste your way around the world.

Each artisan in this book will help you further explore exactly what Saskatchewan terroir is all about.

WHO IS IN THIS BOOK AND WHY?

AND WHAT EXACTLY IS A FOOD ARTISAN?

The word artisan is a somewhat trendy term, in relation to food, and one that I was at first skeptical of. But when I thought about what it means, crafting food by hand, with attention to detail and time-honoured traditions, I realized Saskatchewan was built upon food artisans—from the Indigenous people who first inhabited these lands to the pioneer settlers. Whether they’re fishing, brewing, distilling, foraging, or making chocolate, they all have one thing in common: the discovery that doing things a bit slower, the right way the first time, is what builds long-lasting success.

It wasn’t possible to include everyone here, and I gave special consideration to those growing our food. They receive the least amount of the spotlight and deserve it the most. The farmers I included are using regenerative and organic techniques to rebuild soil health. They’re raising animals holistically to ensure both the animals’ health and that of the people who will consume the meat. These farmers—our stewards of the land—can save this planet. I believe regenerative and holistic agriculture is the way of the future and can make great strides in combatting our carbon footprint and climate change. If you’re interested in learning more, I included educational resources at the end of the book.

While some of those producers are certified organic, many follow organic practices but aren’t certified. It can be pricey and time-consuming, especially for vegetable growers who need to document each varietal to meet certification requirements. As I mentioned earlier, it’s expensive to grow food here and the added cost of organic certification is simply not realistic for many growers. That’s why it’s always a good idea to talk to the people growing your food when you’re able. Ask them how they raise their animals and how they grow their produce. Trust and a handshake go a long way. Or take the kids out for a visit to the farm. (All the places listed on each section’s map accept visitors; just call ahead.)

The artisan makers and chefs in this book do their best to support the province’s food producers. Since Saskatchewan’s culinary scene varies widely outside Regina and Saskatoon, so too did my qualities for defining an artisan. This book features many professional chefs, most of whom honed their talents in larger centres before making their contributions to the province’s culinary scene.

But I would be remiss if I left out the self-taught who are running bakeries, cafés, and restaurants in small towns. The ones who learned in their grandmas’ kitchens are just as much artisans as those who studied abroad. They’re all making food from scratch, with quality ingredients and devotion to method at the forefront, along with supporting the local food system and economy.

For me, this book has been an inspiring journey home. My family’s agricultural roots run deep; both sides farmed in Europe and the United Kingdom before immigrating to Canada in the early 20th century and continuing the tradition of growing food. Today, my brother and his family run a grain operation with my dad in southeastern Saskatchewan. They use both organic and regenerative agricultural techniques, and I could not be prouder of their commitment to growing healthy, nutrient-dense food for people.

In 2015, I left my career as a journalist in Saskatoon and moved to Spain, working at horse training facilities for two years. Ultimately, it wasn’t the right career for me. I thrive in creating connections with people, writing, and storytelling. Plus, I missed my home too much. Yes, Spain’s great but it’s got nothing on this province! Creating Flat Out Delicious has made me fall newly in love with Saskatchewan. I am so excited to share it all with you.

Disclaimer: It’s likely that by the time this book is published, things will have changed for some of the artisans I’ve profiled. That’s the nature of the business, especially for the chefs, who tend to move around a lot. If you feel that a person or product deserves to be in a future edition, please get in touch!

Facebook.com/flatoutfoodsk

Instagram.com/flatoutfoodsk

Twitter.com/JennKSharp

Northern Saskatchewan

Air Ronge

Big River

Christopher Lake

Dore Lake

La Ronge

Loon Lake

Meadow Lake

Nipawin

Prince Albert

Shell Lake

Spruce Home

St. Walburg

Waskesiu

Note: Only artisans and producers who welcome visitors on site are shown on this map.

TRAVEL TIPS

The St. Walburg Wild Blueberry Festival is always the fourth Saturday in August: blueberryfest.stwalburg.ca

Lac La Ronge Provincial Park is one of the largest in the province and is a nature-lover’s dream. It’s nestled in the heart of the Churchill River system and has close to a hundred lakes, over thirty canoe routes (many of which follow old fur trade routes), world-class fishing, hiking, and cross-country skiing.

The beautiful Nistowiak Falls are where Lac La Ronge drains into the Churchill River. The falls are accessible via float plane, boat, or by a twenty-kilometre canoeing route on the Churchill River that begins in Stanley Mission. Private operators offer boat tours from Stanley Mission.

Put simply, Northern Saskatchewan is pure magic. It’s a wild, largely untamed, and untouched region of the province. If you think Saskatchewan is flat, you haven’t been to the north!

For the purposes of this book, the region covers everything north of Prince Albert. It’s home to lakes and breathtaking boreal forest, lying partly on the northern part of the Great Plains and partly on the Canadian Shield. Head to Lac La Ronge Provincial Park to take in the beauty and see the exposed Precambrian rocks. Campsites are situated on the shore and overlook the lake’s islands.

Beautiful as the landscape is, it’s difficult to grow food in the Northern region. Instead, Northerners are adept at fishing, foraging, hunting, and trapping. Traditional diets focus more on wild game and less on cultivated vegetable and cereal crops. Native berries have always been an important part of northern diets, and you can get your fill at the St. Walburg Wild Blueberry Festival.

Wild rice harvesting is prevalent here and Saskatchewan’s organic wild rice is exported to markets throughout the world. The lakes and rivers are full of fish and quotas are closely followed to ensure the species’ future health.

Chefs like Kevin Tetz, who ran the Boreal Bistro and Underground Supper Club in Prince Albert for years, strive to feature northern ingredients, from spruce bark crackers to wild morel mushrooms. Kevin now runs Executive Chef Services.

In recent years, several Indigenous communities have started market and community gardening initiatives, both to provide employment and to ensure food sovereignty in regions where it’s expensive to bring in produce. Gardening consultant and northerner Murray Gray has helped many communities set up successful ventures, teaching them how to establish gardens in grow tunnels.

FOOD ARTISANS OF NORTHERN SASKATCHEWAN

Amy’s on Second

Diana Bird

Big River Farmers’ Market

Bison Café

Boreal Heartland

The Dam Smokehouse

The Dimond Family Farm

Family Bakery

Flying Dust First Nation

Fonos Fish

Forest Fringe Orchards

Jessy’s Garden

Lazy Plum Farm

Loon Lake Farmers’ Market

Mabel Hill Farm Kitchen & Marketplace

Meadow Lake Farmers’ Market

My Place Bistro

Naturally Nice Orchard & Market

Nipawin Farmers’ Market

Prince Albert Farmers’ Market

Heidi O’Brodovich

Curtis Reid

Restaurant Pietro

Route 26 Coffee House

Robertson Trading Ltd.

The Spice Trail Restaurant

St. Walburg Farmers’ Market

Tunnel Vision Gardens

Yellow Fender Coffee House and Eatery

Bison Café

1210 Central Ave, Prince Albert | 306-763-9095

The Bison Café holds dear memories for owners Danielle and Edward Revale. Both immigrated to Alberta from the Philippines and