Lonely Planet Pocket Nice & Monaco
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About this ebook
Lonely Planet's Pocket Nice and Monaco is your guide to the city's best experiences and local life - neighbourhood by neighbourhood. View masterpieces in the Musee Matisse, enjoy the glittering Casino de Monte Carlo and explore Vieux Nice; all with your trusted travel companion. Uncover the best of Nice and Monacoand make the most of your trip!
Inside Lonely Planet's Pocket Nice and Monaco:
Full-colour maps and travel photography throughout
Highlights and itineraries help you tailor a trip to your personal needs and interests
Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices
Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
Convenient pull-out Nice and Monaco map (included in print version), plus over 8 colour neighbourhood maps
User-friendly layout with helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time
Covers Vieux Nice, New Town and Promenade des Anglais, Cimiez, Libération and Vernier, Le Port-Garibaldi, Monaco and more
FThe Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Pocket Nice and Monaco, an easy-to-use guide filled with top experiences - neighbourhood by neighbourhood - that literally fits in your pocket. Make the most of a quick trip to Nice and Monaco with trusted travel advice to get you straight to the heart of the region.
Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet's France guide for a comprehensive look at all that the country has to offer.
About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and phrasebooks for 120 languages, and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, videos, 14 languages, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more, enabling you to explore every day.
'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' New York Times
'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves; it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' Fairfax Media (Australia)
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Lonely Planet Pocket Nice & Monaco - Chrissie McClatchie
Contents
Plan Your Trip
Welcome to Nice & Monaco
Top Experiences
Dining Out
Bar Open
Treasure Hunt
Outdoors
Museums & Monuments
For Kids
Festivals & Events
Showtime
Under the Radar Nice
Responsible Travel
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Nice & Monaco Neighbourhoods
Explore Nice & Monaco
Vieux Nice
New Town & Promenade des Anglais
Cimiez, Libération & Vernier
Le Port-Garibaldi
Monaco
Worth a Trip
Admire the Views from the Three Corniches
Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Nice
Getting Around
Essential Information
Language
Behind The Scenes
Our Writer
Welcome to Nice & Monaco
No longer living off its reputation for beaches and sunshine, Nice has undergone a complete refresh in the last decade with a recent Unesco World Heritage status gifting the city a new swagger. In neighbouring Monaco, the glitz is still as pervasive as ever, but is now increasingly balanced out by local experiences — and flavours — that add a side serve of the principality’s real identity and culture.
jpgVieux Nice | ROSTISLAV GLINSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco
Top Experiences
1 Stroll along Promenade des Anglais
jpgNEIRFY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Browse at Cours Saleya markets
jpgBELLENA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Admire artistic genius at Musée Matisse
jpgANDREI ANTIPOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Tour the magnificent Casino de Monte-Carlo
jpgS-F/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Climb the staircases to Colline du Château
jpgMARCO RUBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Dive into the Musée Océanographique de Monaco
jpgGRUTFRUT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Admire the views from the Three Corniches
jpgLONGJON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Daydream at Musée National Marc Chagall
jpgEQROY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Nice & Monaco Top Experiences
1 Time travel at Musée Masséna
jpgSAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Dining Out
From street-food stalls to Michelin-starred restaurants, Nice is a foodie’s dream. Traditional Niçois cuisine, influenced by the Mediterranean, the mountains and neighbouring Italy, still holds centre stage. Yet, as befits the French Riviera’s culinary capital, contemporary bistros and international restaurants inject endless variety into the mix.
jpgHEMIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
Mediterranean Roots
Niçois cuisine has its roots in the city’s uncommonly mild climate. Olives and wine grapes, which grow easily on the Alpes-Maritimes’ sun-drenched hillsides, have been cultivated here since ancient times, along with Mediterranean classics such as tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, courgettes, Swiss chard and aromatic herbs.
Adding zest to the mix are locally grown lemons, oranges and other citrus fruits.
International Influences
Neighbouring Italy’s impact on Niçois cuisine can be seen in favourite street-food snacks, such as socca, a thin, chickpea-flour pancake closely related to Liguria’s farinata, and in the popularity of Italian desserts such as tiramisu, panna cotta and gelato.
Restaurants around town feature a variety of other international flavours, from Asian to Middle Eastern to North African.
Best Budget Eats
Chez Palmyre Bargain-priced, three-course menus served in an intimate dining room with wonderful neighbourhood character.
Acchiardo Long-time local favourite for Niçois cuisine in a convivial stone-walled setting. (pictured)
Socca du Cours Niçois street-food specialities served in the Cours Saleya markets.
Kalōs Mediterranean pitas busting with fresh ingredients and flavours on Nice’s hippest street.
Kiosque Chez Tintin Beloved hole-in-the-wall near the Libération market, where locals queue for coffee and pan bagnat (classic Niçois tuna sandwich).
Best Bistros & Brasseries
La Femme du Boulanger Open-faced sandwiches and bistro classics, plus scrumptious desserts.
Le Bar des Oiseaux Vintage nightclub decor contrasts with modern cuisine at this perennial Vieux Nice favourite.
Lavomatique Inventive small plates to share in an old Vieux Nice laundromat stylishly converted into a dining room.
La Rossettisserie Roast meat and veggies in a former bakery remodelled with retro flair.
Peixes Sit at the counter and watch the chefs at work at Vieux Nice’s popular seafood superstar.
Best Veggie & Vegan
Koko Green Raw, vegan and vegetarian fare from around the globe, and heavenly vegan cheesecake.
Badaboom Beloved vegan restaurant and juice bar in the trendy port district.
Best Fine Dining
Flaveur Seven-course menus (set meals) of inventive modern cuisine served in a dining room hung with contemporary art.
Jan A star chef works wonders with his creative fusions of flavours.
Worth a Trip: Mirazur, Menton
Superb cuisine and sensational Mediterranean views converge at Mirazur (mirazur.fr), a 1930s villa with a trio of Michelin stars footsteps from the Italian border in Menton. Chef Mauro Colagreco’s masterpieces include ingredients from his own citrus orchard and vegetable patch along the road. Take the train to Menton Garavan station (50 minutes from Nice).
Bar Open
Whether you’re greeting the day with coffee on a cours Saleya terrace, cooling off at a beach bar along Promenade des Anglais, sipping aperitifs and prowling the backstreet pubs of Vieux Nice, or hopscotching among the wine and cocktail bars of the trendsetting Petit Marais, Nice abounds in atmospheric drinking spots.
jpgHEMIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
Vieux Nice
Vieux Nice is nightlife central, with a nearly unbroken series of bars running parallel to the waterfront along rue St-François de Paule and cours Saleya. Other good bar-hopping streets include rue de la Préfecture, rue Benoît Bunico and rue Rossetti.
Le Petit Marais
A youthful crowd congregates in this bohemian neighbourhood between place Garibaldi and Port Lympia. Everyone’s favourite bar-hopping street is rue Bonaparte, but the surrounding side streets and the sidewalks facing the port are also packed with revellers.
New Town & Beyond
The waterfront along Promenade des Anglais is lined with beach bars on the Mediterranean side, with cafe terraces and hotel bars across the street.
A few blocks inland, the pedestrian zone along rue Masséna is another popular spot for a drink, as is place du Général de Gaulle in Libération.
Best Cafes
Café du Cycliste You don’t need to be a passionate cyclist to appreciate the coffee at this portside bike cafe.
L’Altra Casa Greet the day at this strategically placed cafe beside Libération’s bustling market.
La Ronronnerie Cats clamber overhead as captivated children share hot chocolate with their parents.
Best for Beer
Beer District Pick a tap, any tap: 16 draught beers, constantly rotating, and free tastes to boot!
Brasserie Artisanale de Nice Artisanal beer with an unexpected, traditional Niçois ingredient: chickpeas!
Ma Nolan’s A good old-fashioned, rollicking Irish pub near the Cours Saleya markets and also in Le Port.
Best Drinks with a View
Rooftop Monsigny Sunset over the city never looked so pretty as from this rooftop bar.
La Movida Scores one point for the cocktails and 10 points for the full-on waterfront views.
Les Distilleries Idéales Soak up the atmosphere of Vieux Nice’s narrow streets from the pavement tables. (pictured)
Best for Cocktails
Hôtel Amour Hip hotel bar with an indoor courtyard and cocktails named after famous couples.
Le Café des Chineurs Prime people-watching at the corner of place Garibaldi and rue Bonaparte.
Best Wine Bars
La Part des Anges Snack and sip wines selected by a true aficionado.
Rouge Exquisite small plates selection paired with natural wines from small producers.
Les Beaux Joueurs Wines and a side of board games. Need we say more.
Best Streets for Bar-Hopping
Hit these streets for your pick of fun drinking spots:
A Rue Bonaparte, Le Port-Garibaldi
A Rue St-François de Paule and cours Saleya, Vieux Nice
Treasure Hunt
Shopping hotspots range from Vieux Nice’s vintage boutiques and the New Town’s designer fashion temples to the antiques shops and contemporary galleries on the hip streets near place Garibaldi. For quintessentially French gifts, head to Vieux Nice, where you’ll find gourmet treats, Provençal soaps, locally made perfume and more.
jpgLINDASKY76/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Epicurean Pleasures
When it comes to food and drink, you’re spoiled for choice in Vieux Nice.
Wander down virtually any street and you’ll find shelves and display windows stocked with enticing products from all over southern France and the Côte d’Azur: chocolate, candied fruits, cheeses, olive oil, wine, jam...the list goes on.
From Boutiques to Antiques
Big-name designer brands or vintage threads with a personal touch; Nice offers fashion for every taste and budget.
High-end shopping is concentrated in the New Town’s Carré d’Or neighbourhood, while funkier and more casual boutiques abound in Vieux Nice and the port district. The latter is also home to an abundance of antiques shops.
Best Markets
Cours Saleya Food Market Fruits, veggies, cheeses, olives, baked goods and street snacks from dozens of local producers. (pictured)
Cours Saleya Flower Market Roses, mimosas and miniature citrus trees make this Vieux Nice’s sweetest-smelling square.
Marché de la Condamine This outdoor fruit and veg market offers a rare slice of local life in