The Skin Boss: A Guide to Skin Sciences for the Skincare Enthusiast

THE

SKIN

BOSS

A GUIDE TO SKIN SCIENCES

FOR THE SKINCARE ENTHUSIAST

COURTNEY SYKES

Copyright © 2024 Courtney Sykes.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or by any information storage retrieval system without the written permission of the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

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The author of this book does not dispense medical advice or prescribe the use of any technique as a form of treatment for physical, emotional, or medical problems without the advice of a physician, either directly or indirectly. The intent of the author is only to offer information of a general nature to help you in your quest for emotional and spiritual well-being. In the event you use any of the information in this book for yourself, which is your constitutional right, the author and the publisher assume no responsibility for your actions.

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ISBN: 979-8-7652-5476-9 (sc)

ISBN: 979-8-7652-5475-2 (hc)

ISBN: 979-8-7652-5474-5 (e)

Library of Congress Control Number: 2024916917

Balboa Press rev. date: 10/21/2024

CONTENTS

Today’s Skin Bossi

Chapter 1 Skin Histology

Chapter 2 Active and Functional Ingredients

Chapter 3 Skin Conditions

Chapter 4 Skin Care Treatments

Chapter 5 The Care Plan

Chapter 6 Hormones + Skin Health

Chapter 7 Nutrition + Skin Health

Chapter 8 Mindset + Skin Health

About the Author

TODAY’S SKIN BOSS

Maybe you are a licensed skin therapist or simply a skin care enthusiast. This book is for you! Every aspect of the contents of this chronicle is the culmination of my history in the industry as a licensed esthetics instructor and founder of the largest nationally accredited esthetics, wellness, and health sciences education institution in the United States. Skin care is rooted in self-love and respect for one’s own internal and physical well-being but is oftentimes misunderstood through varying opinions scouring the internet and social platforms in today’s society. Understanding the skin from scientific facts and knowledge of skin sciences has always been the root of my education philosophies—and I can’t wait to share it with you in an organized and easy-to-understand format that will blow your mind as well as intrigue you along the way. Science can be fun, and I’m here to bridge the gap between consumer-minded understanding and scientific fact, in a way that will make you yearn to learn more! By providing a deep-dive education in skin histology, active and functional ingredients, skin conditions and concerns, skin care treatments, care plans, hormones and the endocrine system, and more, you will visualize the circle that intertwines all science facts, which is connection.

My history in skin care began in my mother’s electrolysis clinic in the mid-1990s. Etna Griffin was an independent woman of the times with an inventive mindset for providing consumers with permanent hair removal in a private and educated setting. Her background in nurse anesthesia, beginning in 1981, was the perfect blend of medical understanding paired with the new and trending market of esthetics. Watching her start a business, along with simultaneously working in a busy hospital setting on a strict operating schedule, imprinted the entrepreneurial genes within me from a young age. Women can do anything they set their mind to! Moving into her medical spa era, my mother began to purchase lasers for other skin conditions such as laser hair removal for hirsutism, reduction of pigmented lesions, treatment of telangiectasias, and more. She even went as far as to attend trainings in cosmetic injectables, after expanding into a larger space with multiple treatment rooms, and truly began the cosmetic injection genesis within our small town in South Carolina. This was new and exciting in the late 1990s/early 2000s—and it created a new path for consumers wanting nonsurgical change in their skin to produce real results and elevate confidence levels. Somehow, this challenged the norm of the hair salon for beauty treatments and set a tone for blending medicine with skin care. It was a new and innovative time that I recognized immediately as a mindset-altering moment for humanity.

The medical spa industry, an enthralling fusion of medical esthetics and traditional spa services, underwent significant transformations during the 1990s and early 2000s. This period marked the advent of innovations that fundamentally altered the landscape of cosmetic treatments by blending relaxation and luxury with cutting-edge medical procedures. The introduction of cosmetic injectables, cosmetic lasers, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, and the early use of nanotechnology played pivotal roles in shaping the future of medical spas. The 1990s heralded the rise of cosmetic injectables with the FDA’s approval of botulinum toxin type A (Botox) in 1989 for eye muscle disorders. It wasn’t until the late 1990s that its cosmetic potential was realized and approved. This discovery revolutionized the anti-aging market, offering a minimally invasive solution to wrinkles and fine lines. The introduction of Botox paved the way for other injectables, including dermal fillers, to correct volume loss and redefine facial contours without the need for surgical intervention.

Laser technology experienced significant advancements in the 1990s and early 2000s, expanding the possibilities for nonsurgical skin treatments. Laser hair removal, skin resurfacing, and photo facials for pigmentation and vascular issues became popular procedures in medical spas. These technologies offered tailored treatments for various skin concerns, promoting skin rejuvenation with minimal downtime, which appealed to the growing consumer demand for effective, yet noninvasive options. Microdermabrasion and chemical peels emerged as staple procedures in medical spas during this era, each providing a solution to refine skin texture and tone. Microdermabrasion, introduced in the United States in the mid-1990s, utilized fine crystals or a diamond-tipped wand to exfoliate the skin, paving the way for newer, healthier skin cells. Chemical peels, which had been used for decades prior, gained popularity for their ability to treat a wide range of skin issues, from acne scars to age spots, by removing the outermost layers of the skin using a chemical solution.

In the early 2000s, I managed my mother’s medical spa business while going to college and simultaneously, attending esthetics school. This was an innovative time for me, as I was learning to calculate payroll taxes by hand prior to the implementation of a payroll company as well as learning how to become a leader and manage employees. One of my favorite pastimes and escapes, however, was sitting on the floor in my mother’s laser room while the engineer would come on site to service the lasers once per year and watch these experts take apart the device. Inside were the inner workings of my laser physics lectures today. I was fascinated by the integration of mirroring systems, the optical resonator cavity, and the generation of photonic energy (the harnessing of particles of light that human beings can actually create!). This spurred my interest in cosmetic laser technology, and I was lucky enough to be able to see varying types of technologies throughout my budding career. Not only was I able to see these machines in action, I was able to interact with the clients that enjoyed their results. I would work alongside my APRN mother as she put together treatment plans for all Fitzpatricks for laser hair removal, electrolysis, and cosmetic injectables—all at a time when medical esthetics was new for everyone. Lasers, specifically, were of special interest to me, and looking back, I was lucky enough to watch the variances in technology change over the years.

Although in its nascent stage in the early 2000s, nanotechnology began to influence the medical spa industry by enhancing the delivery of active ingredients into the skin. This technological advancement allowed for more effective skin care treatments and products, promising deeper penetration and, therefore, more significant results than traditional topicals. As one of my favorite topics to lecture on, active ingredients and functional ingredients applied topically to the skin in today’s esthetics world are still mind-boggling regarding the efficacy and results seen with specific pH levels and percentages of actives delivered. While alpha hydroxy acids and retinol began to make their debut on the scene in the 1990s, nanotechnology began changing the game of how active ingredients could actually penetrate bioactive ingredients into the deeper layers of the epidermis. The introduction of nanotechnology could actually control the release time of these ingredients by prolonging their resistance time. This was a game-changing time in the topical skin care industry and really paved the pathway for medical-grade skin care lines that permeated the medical spa industry. I saw this firsthand with the amount of skin care representatives and sales consultants that came through our doors. It was a magical time!

One of the more notable memories I have of the early 2000s’ medical-grade skin care boom was the introduction of a skin care line that found amazing results in postsurgical skin and wound healing by integrating the use of fetal stem cells from a one-time donation from an aborted fetus through an atopic pregnancy into their skin care products. While it worked very well for anti-aging and skin rejuvenation, it was deeply questioned by the public due to its clear ethical concerns. After years of moving on in my career, I looked back on the skin care line in question, and they had moved on to growth factors and peptides within their products instead of the fetal stem cells as the nanotechnology that fueled their results. Today, consumers will not find fetal-based stem cells in their skin care products but will find plant-based stem cells that oftentimes are paired with peptides and growth factors for new cell growth, antioxidant protection, and skin tightening effects. Notably, new research has found that human stem cells, in fact, cannot survive outside lab conditions or their natural habitats. Plant-based stem cells are actually more of an antioxidant-support to the skin in today’s skin care environment; therefore, what’s next? Growth factors are signaling proteins produced by stem cells in the skin and used as a communication tool between cells. Growth factors are recognized by our body and can activate different processes in the skin for repair and healing. Already, we are finding the connection between science and skin care!

The growth of medical spas in the 2000s signifies a transformative shift in the beauty and wellness industry. This era saw an increased demand for noninvasive procedures, driven by advancements in technology and a desire for more personalized, holistic care. Medical spas have successfully bridged the gap between traditional spa services and medical treatments, offering clients a unique blend of relaxation and clinical efficacy. As we move forward, the integration of innovative therapies and a continued focus on individualized client care will likely propel the industry to even greater heights.

This shift toward medical spas has also had a significant impact on the job market, creating new opportunities for professionals in both the spa and medical fields. Medical spas require a skilled team of licensed estheticians, registered nurses, PAs, and physicians to provide a diverse range of services. These roles often require specialized training and certifications, further elevating the standard of care provided at these establishments. Furthermore, the rise of medical spas has also brought about collaborations between different industries. Traditional day spas have started incorporating medically focused treatments into their services while medical facilities are beginning to incorporate more wellness-oriented offerings. This cross-pollination not only benefits clients by providing a diverse range of services under one roof but also creates symbiotic relationships within the industry.

The transformations during the 1990s and early 2000s set the stage for the medical spa industry’s explosive growth. The introduction of groundbreaking procedures and technologies during this period not only made esthetics treatments more accessible but also broadened the scope of what could be achieved in a spa setting. By combining medical precision with spa-like pampering, medical spas carved out a unique niche in the beauty industry that continues to evolve. This era was characterized by a shift toward more personalized and preventive skin care regimes, facilitated by technological innovations. Consumers’ increasing desire for noninvasive, quick-recovery procedures propelled the medical spa industry into the mainstream. The legacy of these years is seen in the widespread acceptance and popularity of medical spas today, where the blend of health, beauty, and wellness continues to thrive.

The journey of the modern-day Skin Boss is multifaceted and complex, yet both thoughtful and magical. The Skin Boss mindset includes an appreciation of the industry’s past as well as a massive interest in skin histology and ingredient knowledge. Having a keen eye for skin conditions of all kinds and an understanding of multiple skin care treatments is paramount. The Skin Boss also knows how to formulate a successful and detailed care plan per skin condition while also harnessing a deep understanding of the endocrine system and nutritional connections regarding skin health. To top it off, the mindset of a true Skin Boss is critical—displaying attributes of an industry leader through organization and consistency. With these traits and educational acumen within your toolbelt, you too can become a Skin Boss. Let’s dive in!

CHAPTER 1

SKIN HISTOLOGY

Welcome to the ever-changing beauty- and science-focused esthetics industry! The true nuts and bolts of the skin care industry lie in a strong understanding of histology, the study of the microscopic structure of tissues. Consumers are more aware than ever before about the nuances of skin care and what’s available on the market. Whether you’re a licensed skin care therapist, a skin enthusiast, or a blend of the two, to truly understand skin care itself, you must dive into the deeper levels of skin from a scientific perspective to help explain the why factor. This is the magic sauce and true pathway to long-term success in understanding.

My hope is to inspire you to become a scientific thinker, a wonder seeker, and a creator. Becoming a licensed esthetician was one of the highlights of my entire career and opened pathways that I never knew I wanted to explore! If you become inspired to attend an incredible esthetics training opportunity through a wellness- and science-focused education center, you will be inspired to provide amazing consultations and postservice education moments to your guests. You will be able to use your expansive knowledge of the inner workings of the skin layers to explain and recommend professional skin care treatments and home care recommendations. The future of amazing skin care is in your hands—and you have the superpowers available through expansive knowledge of science and ingredients to take your mind (and the minds of others!) to a place of skin care enlightenment! What’s better than uplifting your own confidence levels through wellness management and education, while also uplifting others and sharing this information you harness in a big and inspirational way?

As I’ve always shared with my students, science can be fun. Science, often perceived as a realm of rigid formulas and complex theories, unveils an enchanting side when it intersects with beauty! Imagine delving into the world of botany, where the intricate designs of flowers reveal the elegance of nature’s symmetry and patterns. Or consider the marvels of chemistry, where experimenting with different compounds can result in vibrant colors and captivating reactions, transforming a lab into a canvas of artistic expression. Even physics, with its principles of light and optics, can elucidate the stunning phenomena of rainbows and auroras. For you, our skin care enthusiasts, exploring the beauty in science transforms learning into a delightful journey, where the quest for knowledge is as visually and emotionally enriching as it is intellectually stimulating. It’s a reminder that the pursuit of scientific understanding can be both a rigorous and a profoundly beautiful adventure.

Science and beauty might seem like two separate realms, but when they converge, the result is nothing short of magical. When we focus on the beauty inherent in scientific phenomena, learning becomes a captivating experience, filled with wonder and endless curiosity. Skin care lovers, be amazed by the intricate detail of the skin and the structures that make up what you see as epithelial tissue. You will become enlightened in a whole new way in your skin care journey!

Structure of the Skin

The skin is the largest organ of the body. It has three main layers, the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous layer (adipose tissue, fat). The epidermis is an elastic layer on the outside that is continually being regenerated.

Healthy humans regenerate skin cells every twenty-eight days. As we become older and free-radical damage comes into play, our cell turnover rate (cellular regeneration rate) slows down. This is the reason why consumers want to see an esthetician and focus on treatments that produce cell turnover.

The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin and is composed of stratified squamous epithelium. It serves as a protective barrier against environmental stressors, preventing water loss, maintaining body temperature, and protecting us from ultraviolet (UV) radiation and other harmful agents. The epidermis also contains specialized cells such as keratinocytes that produce proteins that make up our hair, skin, and nails. Additionally, it houses nerve endings, which allow for tactile sensation. The epidermis is constantly renewing itself through cell division in its lower layers to replace dead cells on the surface. This renewal process helps maintain healthy skin by replacing old damaged cells with new ones.

The epidermis is composed of five distinct layers, beginning with the outermost layer known as the stratum corneum. It is made up of dead keratin-filled cells called corneocytes and provides an effective barrier against environmental stressors. The second layer, the stratum lucidum, consists of clear flattened cells that allow for the passage of UV rays. Next is the stratum granulosum, which is composed of cells that produce keratin and fats to further protect and lubricate the skin. The fourth layer, the stratum spinosum, consists of cells with many projections called desmosomes, which help bind them together creating a strong barrier between layers. Finally, the stratum basal, or stratum germinativum, is the innermost layer and primarily consists of stem cells that continually divide to generate new epidermal cells. These layers combined with sudoriferous glands (sweat glands), sebaceous glands (oil glands), and hair follicles form the epidermis and are essential for healthy skin.

A Focused Understanding of the Five Layers of the Epidermis

1. Stratum Corneum: The Outermost Barrier

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis. It consists of dead keratin-filled cells known as corneocytes. These cells are tightly packed and form a robust barrier that protects the underlying layers from environmental stressors, such as pathogens, chemicals, and physical abrasions.

Functions

•Barrier protection: Prevents the entry of harmful microorganisms and chemicals.

•Hydration regulation: Controls the amount of water loss through the skin, maintaining proper hydration levels.

•Desquamation: Facilitates the shedding of dead skin cells, aiding in the natural regeneration process.

2. Stratum Lucidum: The Clear Passageway

Beneath the stratum corneum lies the stratum lucidum, a layer composed of clear, flattened cells. This layer is most prominent in thick skin areas, such as the palms of the hands and soles of the feet.

Functions

•UV light passage: Allows UV rays to penetrate deeper into the skin, enabling the synthesis of Vitamin D.

•Additional barrier: Provides an extra layer of protection, particularly in regions subject to high friction and pressure.

3. Stratum Granulosum: The Keratinizing Layer

The stratum granulosum is characterized by cells that begin to produce large amounts of keratin and lipids. These cells contain granules filled with keratohyalin, a protein that promotes the aggregation of keratin fibers, further strengthening the skin’s barrier.

Functions

•Keratin production: Essential for the formation of the skin’s protective outer layer.

•Lipid secretion: Lipids released in this layer help to create a waterproof barrier, preventing excessive water loss.

4. Stratum Spinosum: The Strengthening Layer

The stratum spinosum, also known as the spiny layer, contains several layers of keratinocytes. These cells have many projections called desmosomes, which act like rivets, binding them tightly together.

Functions

•Structural integrity: Desmosomes provide mechanical strength, ensuring the skin remains resilient against physical stresses.

•Immune response: Contains Langerhans cells, which play a role in the skin’s immune defense by identifying and fighting off pathogens.

Advanced knowledge: Did you know? Eczema is a malformation of desmosomes (cytoplasmic plaque that holds the corneocytes in place) in the stratum spinosum—therefore, the cells rub together via friction and cause redness and irritation!

5. Stratum Germinativum (Stratum Basale/Basal Layer): The Regenerative Layer

The innermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum basal (or stratum germinativum), is primarily composed of stem cells that continuously divide to generate new epidermal cells. This layer is also home to keratinocytes, baby or fetal skin cells, and melanocytes, which produce the pigment melanin that gives skin its color.

Functions

•Cell generation: Stem cells in this layer ensure the constant renewal of the epidermis by producing new keratinocytes.

•Pigmentation: Melanocytes produce melanin, which protects the skin from UV radiation and contributes