Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Wrocław
No. 34, September - December 2015

inyourpocket.com
No. 34 - 5zł
 Contents

Feature Leisure 74
Nadodrze 6
Shopping 78
Arrival & Transport 8
Directory 84
City Basics 12
Basic History 14
Hotels 86

Culture & Events 16

Maps & Index
Street Index 93
Restaurants 22 Listings Index 94

Cafés 42 Features Index 95

City Map 96
Nightlife 44
City Centre Map 98
Sightseeing 52
The Old Town 54
Ostrów Tumski 64 IN PRINT
Gnomes 67
Centennial Hall & Parks 68 ONLINE
Jewish Wrocław 72 ON YOUR MOBILE

Seek out this phantom train station North of the River in Nadodrze.

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 3

 Foreword
If this is your first time in Wrocław, prepare to get starry-
Publisher
eyed – this dame has it all, from high breeding and good IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
looks, to cultural clout and an up-for-anything attitude. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków
Reared at the crossroads of Europe and endowed with [email protected]
equal parts Austrian Hapsburg charm, Prussian pride, www.inyourpocket.com
Polish playfulness and Bohemian rhapsody, it’s easy to
Company Office & Accounts
see why every duke, emperor and chancellor in the land
General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676
was ready to wage a war or two just to share a table Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
with this Silesian lady. Situated sublimely on the Odra
River, Wrocław easily holds its own with the likes of not- Circulation
distant neighbours Vienna, Kraków and Prague in terms of 15,000 copies published 3 times per year
postcard panoramas and cultural offerings. Here you’ll find
Editorial
more bridges than anywhere in Central Europe, a market Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing writer: Janina Krzysiak;
square second only to Kraków’s in size (p.56), an entire Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Cathedral Island of awe-inspiring architecture (p.64), and Kalina Klimaszewska;
a one-of-a-kind UNESCO-laureled engineering marvel (p. Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak,
68), not to mention a full calendar of festivals and events Emily Meadows; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket
unless otherwise stated; Cover Janina Krzysiak
(p.16) and over 30,000 university students pushing the
local nightlife (p.44) to unhinged heights. Soon to be Sales & Circulation
crowned ‘European Capital of Culture 2016,’ Wrocław is Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager:
ready for its close-up, so put this guide securely in your Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
pocket, go out and feel the Wroclove. Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643
Poznań/Wrocław Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642
Gdańsk/Malbork Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824

FEATURE Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note

Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
With such rich cultural offerings elsewhere in the ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
city, the northern neighborhood of Nadodrze has reproduced in any form without written permission from the
gone unnoticed by locals and tourists for many years. copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
That’s changing fast. This once derelict district is now license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
buzzing with creative energy and artistic action. Street tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
art, galleries, boutiques, trendy cafes, cutting edge from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
restaurants, oh my! Come along as IYP give you a ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
behind the scenes tour of Nadodrze, starting on page 6. responsibility for changes and errors.

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 Nadodrze

A huge
hugee st
stree
reett aart
ree rt mural
a welcomes visitors to this niftyy neig
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Head uptown, north across the wide murky band of crowded Main Square or to take a break from museum-
the Oder River, and you will encounter a city quarter hopping and ticking off all the obligatory Wrocław sights.
seemingly in the midst of an identity crisis, where So don’t be shy, dip underneath one of the nondescript
decorative nineteenth-century architecture shares urban archways to any of the spacious courtyards (true feats
space with squats and concrete utilitarian buildings. of 19th-century urban planning) and see what’s been
Crumbling abandoned structures stand side by side with brewing in this off-the-radar area.
brand spankin’-new playing fields and freshly-painted
facades, while a power plant looms over neatly-trimmed If Nadodrze landmarks are what you’re really after, there
greenery. Not grimy and grungy enough to satisfy the are a couple things you want to keep an eye out for: the
odd thrill-seeker, and lacking any true historical landmarks stunning-yet-derelict 1868 train station, designed in the
that could help it contest the Old Town, at first glance it German historicist style by Hermann Grapow; an above-
might seem that Nadodrze doesn’t have all that much ground air-raid bunker (located where ul. Św. Wincentego
to offer potential tourists - but dig around a bit and you’ll merges into ul. Ołbińska); a monument to Poles exiled
find a lively art scene, young cultural initiatives, unique to Siberia, located on Skwer Sybiraków; and the power
workshops, charming cafes, and some of the city’s best plant - you won’t need a map to find that one. For the most
eats. authentic experience, we would recommend visiting some
of the inner-building courtyards, which harbour many of
This 19th-century artisan district, severely damaged during the district’s outstanding street art murals. Indeed, a mural-
WWII and plagued by poverty and alcoholism in the post- safari might be a great way to spend a couple hours - at
war years, has been the target of a huge revitalisation/ last count, there were 29 works of art gracing various walls
overhaul project during the past decade. From a notoriously around the neighbourhood (all are marked on the map in
dangerous and grim neighborhood, it has emerged as a the back of this guide)
firmly-established artistic district drawing creative minds
from around the city and spawning new places of interest If you’re in need of a pleasant stroll or some bench-time,
left and right. With a whole army of enthusiastic, efficient the river-side Józef Zwierzyniecki Boulevard is the most
NGOs dedicated to improving every aspect of Nadodrze charming spot, but the district also has plenty of parks and
life, from renovating buildings and courtyards to breathing green squares for you to rest in - the most inviting and
life into the cultural landscape to tackling socioeconomic expansive of which being the bucolic Plac Św. Macieja
issues, impressively much has been done here - and it (St. Maciej’s Square). However if you truly want to get to
seems the winds of change are blowing ever stronger. the heart of Nadodrze and feel the pulse of this buzzing
Tourists and Wrocław-dwellers are finally starting to bohemian borough, you should seek out the funky cafes,
appreciate the grand transformation the district has been bistros, galleries and resto-bars (the line is often blurred)
undergoing and slowly viewing it as a place to escape the that have been popping up like mushrooms after a storm.
6 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Nadodrze
Below we’ve highlighted the top 3 must-visit cafes and the previous extensive choice of lunches has given way
restaurants in Nadodrze, but these are just the tip of the mostly to alcoholic concoctions, with a modest side
iceberg. This is the perfect district to get lost in on a sunny selection of tarts, quiches, and sandwiches; meanwhile,
afternoon. Who knows what you might discover in the the cafe’s vibe has remained far more brunchy than
courtyard round the corner. boozy. Here’s hoping for a healthy food comeback!QF-2,
ul. Św. Wincentego 21, tel. (+48) 884 380 050, www.
wincentego21.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (12-29zł). T6
CAFÉS UVGSW
NEW
BISTRO NAROŻNIK
This laid-back, pleasantly dim corner cafe/bistro attracts RESTAURANTS
both young parents with month-old babes and the punk NEW
teenager kind. Apart from coffee and alcohol, they serve MANGO MAMA
fancy daily lunches and all-day weekend breakfast in three Don’t let the inexpensive decor fool you - Mango Mama
styles: Polish, English, and French. Sit at one of the window makes some mean Indo-Asian food, and expats from the
tables and watch Nadodrze life go by.QB-1, ul. Rydygiera Asian continent are a regular sight here during lunchtime.
30. Open 11:00 - 24:00. T6EGSW The reasonably-priced menu offers some of everything, be
it pad thai, phuket spice, samosas, chicken tikka masala,
NEW sushi, or chilli men, and the portion sizes should fill you up
MACONDO no problem.QG-3, ul. Jedności Narodowej 77, tel. (+48)
535 65 36 92. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-50zł). TVG
SW

NEW
OD KOOCHNI
Full to the brim during lunchtime, this cozy and friendly
hole-in-the-wall restaurant offers ever-changing vegetar-
ian and omnivore meals of the day, plus delicious coffee
and cake. The open kitchen lets you sneak a peek at food
prep, and the layout (long table + windowside counter
seating) compels to get friendly with fellow diners. If you
If you’ve ever wondered what stepping into a Gabriel get thirsty, grab a glass and fill it up with water from the
García Márquez novel would feel like, here’s your chance to conveniently located tap - Od Koochni is taking part in an
find out. Named after the One Hundred Years of Solitude initiative to popularise the consumption of Wrocław’s safe
town, Macondo is a magical realism haven in the heart of and clean municipal water (and it’s one of the only Pol-
Nadodrze. Part curio/artisan shop, part cozy cafe, this white- ish food establishments where you don’t have to pay for
washed, Latin-American-esque nugget of literary-inspired your H2O).QG-3, ul. Oleśnicka 7A, tel. (+48) 603 88 63
respite not only serves an enticing array of coffees (from 98, www.odkoochni.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 -
banana to orange to cinnamon), but it also hosts assorted 18:00. Closed Sun. (24-29zł). TGS
artsy events including concerts, poetry evenings, and
communal Thursday dinners. The only drawback here is the NEW
shady people who occasionally peer into the back garden. POWOLI
Instead, you might want to follow the narrow sky-blue steps With a name that means „slowly” in Polish, this pleasant
to the mezzanine, which features a comfy couch for two. breakfast & lunch spot has latched onto the slow lifestyle
QA-1, ul. Pomorska 19, tel. (+48) 530 08 83 04. Open trend, offering carefully made, unfussy, healthy food in
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 6EGBS an interior decorated in a style we’d like to call „homey
minimalism”. Perhaps the best thing about this lil’ place
WINCENTEGO 21 is the community atmosphere you feel right through
This place has a lot going for it - after all, it’s got all the the door, with locals hanging around reading, having a
decade’s „hip ‘n cool” indispensibles like plywood flooring, morning cup of tea, and/or discussing medical problems
whitewashed brick, exposed light bulbs, and wooden (the hospital located right across the street is especially
shipping crates acting as furniture. And yet, it seems that conducive to this). Powoli offers a daily selection of twists
most of the time the locale is deserted, contrary to the on popular Polish dishes, like pierogi, potato pancakes,
owners’ vision of the region’s first true club-cafe, where crepes, casserole - all made with unorthodox, nutritious
hours should fly by on animated discussion, laptopping, or ingredients - and we gotta say the food is delicious. Plenty
book reading. Maybe it’s the location, or perhaps the reason of vegetarian options, too!QB-1, ul. Rydygiera 25/27, tel.
is the apparent mismatch between menu and setting. If the (+48) 732 52 34 07. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
hip ‘n cool blackboard above the counter is to be believed, Closed Sun. (7-16zł). T6UGSW
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 7
 Arrival & Transport

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Wrocław is on the up and up as regards transport. Served orange-yellow paint - and while not necessarily the colour
by it’s own airport (with a new 3-storey terminal) only 13km we would have chosen, it certainly makes an impression.
from the city centre, a gorgeous, recently-modernised train Looking like a grandiose palace, a public square dotted
station and one of the country’s only major highways with benches and two playful fountains now flanks the
connecting it to Berlin to the west and Kraków to the east, front entrance. Inside, all the elegant architectural details
it’s never been easier to get to or from Wrocław. Several of the original design have been brought back to life, while
trains depart to Germany and Czech Republic each day, the new digital displays give you all the arrival and departure
city is a hub for Polski Bus, and also boasts a comprehensive info you need. Modernised to be completely handicap
and easy to use tram system. In this section you’ll find all accessible, there are even handy conveyors to put your
you’ll need to know about getting to and getting around luggage on if you chose the stairs. Other amenities include
Wrocław. 24-hour ticket windows, automated ticket machines inside
and out, an information desk (open 07:00 - 21:00), lockers
and a left luggage service, ATMs (bankomat), currency
BY TRAIN exchange offices (kantor), comfortable waiting rooms, and
Wrocław is well-designed for train travel, boasting a a plethora of shops, restaurants and cafes. Overall it adds up
gloriously renovated main train station that was at one to the most convenient, comfortable, and easy to navigate
time the largest in Europe. Fully modernised in 2012 before train station in Poland.
the Euro Cup, today Wrocław’s Dworzec Główny is arguably Visit the Polish railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl - which
the nicest train station in Poland, making a wonderful has limited but effective English language functionality -
impression on all those who arrive via the rails. Located just to check the departure times ahead of travelling, and the
south of the market square, from here it is possible to catch large digital display board in the station for the number of
quick domestic connections to Kraków (3.5hrs), Warsaw the platform (peron).
(4hrs) and Poznań (2.5hrs), but international destinations As for getting into town, you are basically in it, with most
like Berlin and Prague require a changing of trains. Miłej of the city’s hotels and hostels within 15mins walking
podróży! distance. You can take a tram two stops north to Galeria
Dominikańska to get a bit closer to the market square (head
WROCŁAW MAIN TRAIN STATION west from there), or hop in one of the taxis waiting of front
Recently the beneficiary of a massive 293 million PLN of both station entrances.QB-6, ul. Piłsudskiego 105, tel.
investment, Wrocław’s main train station has never (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.
looked better. Completed in 1857, this grandiose Neo- rozklad.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system
Gothic building, with its decadent exterior of turrets maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00
and crenellations, has been given a fresh blaze of bright to 01:00.
8 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Arrival & Transport
BY PLANE
Wrocław can boast one of Poland’s most efficient and
modern airports, thanks to the shiny new terminal built
a few hundred metres from the old one and opened in
March 2012. Completed ahead of the Euro 2012 Football
Championships the new terminal can handle over 3 million
passengers annually and is Ryanair’s first hub in Poland.

WROCŁAW AIRPORT
Wrocław’s modern airport does a fine job of ushering
people in and out of the city. Just 13km west of the city
centre you should be through passport control and
baggage claim rather quickly, at which stage you will
probably start thinking about local cash. We recommend
using an ATM (‘bankomat’) as the airport’s currency
exchange desk offers what we might politely call ‘NOT
the best exchange rates in town.’ At the airport you’ll also
find press stores, tourist and airport information desks, a
restaurant, bars and a coffee shop.

The city is finally developing a rail link between the airport

and the Old Town, but at the moment the most sensible
way to get to the centre is via bus 406, which runs roughly
every 20mins from 05:13 - 23:44 between the airport and
the train station (B-6), with central stops also at Pl. Orląt
Lwowskich (E-4) and Renoma (A-4). Night bus 249 departs
the airport for the centre at 00:20. Bus tickets cost 3.00zl
during the day, 3.20zł at night, and can be bought from
the press store inside the terminal building or from the
machine next to the bus stop. The journey takes 30-40mins.

Alternatively, you can jump into one of the taxis sitting

outside the terminal and expect a 20min ride to the centre.
Pick-ups are restricted to three vetted firms (but others are
waiting nearby): ZTP Radio Taxi (tel. 71 196 22), Taxi Plus (tel.
601 70 07 53) and Partner Taxi (tel. 71 196 27). The tariffs are
similar, but Partner Taxi seem to have the best rates: about
50zł weekdays, 70zł weekends.

For live arrival and departure information call the number

given or visit the airport’s excellent website.Qul. Graniczna
190 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 358 14 10, www.airport.
wroclaw.pl.

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 9

 Arrival & Transport
BY CAR BY BUS
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, A stop on the Eurolines international coach network,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure Wrocław is also a hub for Polski Bus (polskibus.com), with
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road connections to Kraków, Prague, Łódź and Warsaw.
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in TEMPORARY BUS STATION
the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country. Set-up to temporarily serve as Wrocław’s bus station until
Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in 2017 while the city’s original PKS station gets a much-
front, rub those rosary beads and God speed. needed renovation, this make-shift station is performing
its function admirably. Located in the parking lot of an
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities administration building directly behind the platform access
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside tunnel of Wrocław’s train station, only 100 metres from the
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/ former bus station, the temporary station is well-marked
hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights and travellers should find navigating the inconvenience
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, created by the construction both simple and speedy. Most
first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker ticket windows are open 06:00 - 22:00, but an international
and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland ticket desk and Polski Bus window are open 24 hours.
also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum Toilets, a cash machine and a few food vendors are also on-
blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single hand for your gastro and gastral needs, and more services
beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences can be found across the street in the train station. A 24-
as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when hour infoline has also been established: call 703 400 444
driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the from domestic numbers and (71) 373 28 46 internationally.
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find Overall, we’d call the temporary arrangements an
their licences technically invalid (though this has never improvement over the former station, with the exception
been a problem for anyone we know). of limited waiting room space when it’s raining.

One of the only major highways in the country, the A4 Most hotels and hostels are within a 15min walk, but to
connects Wrocław with Berlin (via Legnica) and Kraków catch local transport to the centre you’ll need to walk back
(via Opole and Katowice). Much of Wrocław’s centre is towards the old station and the ‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ stop
pedestrianised, and one-way and permit-only streets only (A-6) from which tram 15 will take you as close to the market
help to make driving in the centre an absolute nightmare. square as possible (get off at ‘Rynek’); or walk through the
Poor planning and limited traffic patterns mean congestion train station for more options from the ‘Dworzec Główny’
is a major, major problem as well; call a cab and it might stop (B-5). Alternatively, jump in a Partner Taxi (71 196 27)
take as much as twenty minutes to get to you, though it’s to avoid the fuss.QB-6, ul. Joannitów 13.
only a few blocks away. As such, we suggest you ditch your
vehicle at the first opportunity, which raises the question
of where to put it. CAR RENTAL
Parking lots are marked on the map in the back of our Internationally trusted service
print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, offering a range of vehicles
though some hotels have limited parking spaces; check from sedan to mini-vans. Avis
when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily also has a desk at the airport but you must arrange in
recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware advance to pick up or drop off a car there.QA-5, ul.
that a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ Piłsudskiego 49-57 (Scandic Hotel), tel. (+48) 601
(not sure which universe that sign is from). Pay via the 35 48 11, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00; Sat, Sun
automated ticket machines; in the city centre it’s 3zł for the open on request.
first hour, 3.60zł for the second hour and 4.30zł for the third.
Thereafter you’ll be forking out 3 zeds an hour.
A wide range of cars from
24HR PARKING the baby Fiat Panda to the
Monitored parking for cars and buses near the Racławice spacious Mercedes E220 CDi
Panorama.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 728 97 90 70. station wagon. All cars are equipped with power assisted
steering. Satellite navgation systems are also available.
CENTENNIAL HALL PARKING Special rates offered to those who order through the
Above and below ground guarded parking for passenger Joka website.QB-5, ul. Kościuszki 34 (Pałacyk), tel.
cars and buses in front of Centennial Hall.QI-4, ul. (+48) 601 54 53 69, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 -
Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel. (+48) 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Sun open on request.
71 346 14 22, www.parkinghalastulecia.pl.
10 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Arrival & Transport
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Wrocław’s public transport system is easy to use and
fairly extensive, with 120 bus lines and 23 tram lines.
You’ll rarely need trams or buses to get around the Old
Town, but many affordable hotels and some sights (like
Centennial Hall) are located outside the centre. Major
hubs for trams and buses include the main train station
(B-6), Pl. Dominikański (C-3), and Pl. Jana Pawła II (E-4).
Buses and trams run roughly from 04:00 to 00:00, with
night buses running less frequently after that.

Tourists should have no trouble using the English option

on the ticket machines now stationed at most transit
stops and on all trams and buses. Note, however, that
while ticket machines at transit stops accept coins and
cash, those on board trams and buses only take plastic. A
single fare ticket is 3zł, but be aware that night buses cost
3.20zł. ISIC or other non-Polish student IDs are valid for a
significant student discount, but you must carry your ID.
Most importantly, remember that tickets are not valid
until you stamp them once inside the tram or bus.
Sneaky plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel the lines
handing out hefty fines to those without valid tickets;
being a foreigner will not excuse you, it will only mean
you’ll have to pay in cash on the spot.

Schedules posted at each stop tend to be right on the

money. ‘W dni robocze’ means Monday through Friday
and ‘W dni wolne’ means Saturday and Sunday. For

SPECIAL WEEKEND
route planning, check out the super helpful website
www.wroclaw.jakdojade.pl.

TAXIS OFFER FOR YOUR

LUX TAXI
CAR RENTAL.
Comfortable and reliable,
Lux Taxi prides itself on its
competitive rates, clean cars ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,
and well-mannered drivers, all of
whom speak English or German, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD
and some are even licenced tour AND EXPLORE POLAND
guides. 6-8 person taxi vans are available, and you can
conveniently pay with by credit card.Qtel. (+48) 71
WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL
196 23, www.luxradiotaxi.pl. PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.

PARTNER TAXI
Partner’s high-quality service
make them your best bet for * NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED,
a cab in Wrocław. Operating ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.
clean cars of the same
distinctive make, from Partner CONTACT:
you can request an English-speaking driver or child’s tel: +48 22 572 65 65
www.avis.pl
car seat, and when you’ve blown all your cash at the
bar you can pay with a credit card to get home.Qtel.
(+48) 71 196 27, www.partner-taxi.pl.

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 11

 City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES MARKET VALUES
Territory Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and increases over the last couple of years particularly in
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus products and prices. Market values as of August 20,
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), 2015 based on €1 = 4.13zł
the shady Russian enclave of Kaliningrad (210km), McDonald's Big Mac 9.70 zł € 2.35
Lithuania (103km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine
(529km). Snickers 1.55 zł € 0.38
Wrocław has an area of 292.82 square kilometres, and is 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 29.90 zł € 7.24
the largest city in Lower Silesia (Dolny Śląsk). 0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.72
Longest River 0.5ltr beer (bar) 8.00 zł € 1.94
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at Loaf of white bread 3.39 zł € 0.82
1,047km and flows through Kraków and Warsaw before 20 Marlboros 15.00 zł € 3.63
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Wrocław
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.23 zł € 1.27
sits on the Oder (Odra) River which flows 854km through
western PL and forms 187km of the Polish-German Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.00 zł € 0.73
border before reaching the Baltic at Szczecin, PL.

Highest Point of some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by

The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the
Mountains along the country’s southern border with notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private
Slovakia. clinics can also be found in the Directory. Further help can
be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which
Population (2014) can also be found in the Directory.
Poland - 38,502,396
Warsaw - 1,729,119
Kraków - 759,800 LAW & ORDER
Łódź - 708,554 In general Wrocław is safer than most West European cities,
Wrocław - 633,105 and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
Poznań - 546,829 employ common sense. Perhaps the biggest danger in
Gdańsk - 461,935 Wrocław is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans
who can be heard coming a mile away and easily avoided.
Local Time Petty crime does exist, so don’t leave your belongings
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone laying around while in public places (like bars), and be
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Wrocław it’s 6:00 am in mindful of pickpockets. Robberies on overnight trains are
New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin also not unheard of, especially on the routes connecting
and 19:00 in Tokyo. Wrocław with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or
sleeper cabin and keep an eye on your things.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
HEALTH & EMERGENCY easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in
or ER. From a land-line or public phone dial the following: front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997. of geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to
English, German and Russian speakers have separate complete prats who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable to
lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48 drop their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain -
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can have tested the patience of local law enforcement, which
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. do may well be treated to a trip to the drunk tank, where
The lines are active year round with later hours during the you can expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and
high-tourist season. the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants; not to
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency mention a hefty fine.
Rooms can be found in the Directory section of this guide. Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops is by riding public
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport, Public
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories Tranport), and (silly as it may seem) jaywalking. If you are
12 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 City Basics
from a country which doesn’t have or respect jaywalking
laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people standing LANGUAGE SMARTS
obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change.
The reason for obeying this seemingly silly rule is the fact Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by being
nonetheless smooth your time in Wrocław and may even
a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and your win you friends and admirers.
non-residency means you will be forced to pay the fine
on the spot. On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of
the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
MONEY Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments. Basic Pronunciation
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will often ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
provide better value than the banks in your home country ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘
or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist sites. ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
Shopping around will reward you with the best rate. For a list ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
of kantors in Wrocław that won’t rip you off, see Directory. ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
destination, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
the country less of a bargain than it was five years ago. ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
venues and transport still remain comparably cheap in ‘r’ is always rolled
contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically Polish Words & Phrases
costs 15-25zł, while admission to most museums usually Yes Tak (Tahk)
costs between 5zł and 15zł. No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)
RELIGION Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on Please Proszę (Prosheh)
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
fighting against pagan invasions and looking to religion Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Church for solace; during the communist era, underground Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may do domu. doh-moo.)
find the Polish enthusiasm for religion a bit unnerving at Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Tourists should remember while visiting Wrocław’s many Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 13
 Basic History
Wrocław has always been the During the War of Austrian Succession, the Kingdom of
dominant capital of Silesia, a Prussia laid claim to much of Silesia and Prussian troops
region whose story begins entered what was then known as ‘Breslau’ without a
with the establishment conflict in 1741. Though heavily taxed and having lost
of a stronghold along the the self-rule the city had enjoyed since the Middle Ages,
Amber Road and Via Regia Protestants could now express their faith freely in the
trading routes on what is new kingdom and Prussian authorities allowed for the
today Ostrów Tumski by the establishment of a Jewish community. After the demise of
Slavic Ślęźanie tribe in the 8th the Holy Roman Empire, Breslau capitulated to Napoleon’s
century. Absorbed into Czech army in 1807; led by King Frederick III of Prussia - who
Bohemia, the expanding lived in Breslau - the city was the centre of the liberation
fortress was first recorded in the 10th century under the movement against Napoleonic rule. The tearing down of
name ‘Vratislavia,’ thought to be derived from the name Breslau’s defensive fortifications by the French allowed the
of the Bohemian duke Vratislav I. In 990, however, the Piast city to begin expanding and state reforms helped it prosper
duke Mieszko I conquered the region and by 1000AD the in the 19th century as it grew into a major administrative,
city had expanded to 1,000 inhabitants, prompting Polish ecclesiastical, military, industrial and science centre. Over
king Bolesław I to establish Silesia’s first bishopric on the the course of the century the population increased 8-fold
site of today’s Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. (including the third largest Jewish population in Germany)
and Breslau grew into the second largest city in Prussia;
Over the next century, religious and political conflict saw when the German Empire was consolidated in 1871,
the region pass back forth between Poland and Bohemia Breslau entered as the third largest city after Berlin and
numerous times, before finding some stability under the Hamburg. The construction of the Centennial Hall in 1913
Silesian Piast dynasty who ruled the area during the so perhaps best represents the ambition and achievement of
called ‘Age of Fragmentation’ (1138-1320) when Poland was this part of the city’s history.
divided into autonomous principalities. A Mongol raid in
1241 devastated the city, but it was rebuilt under Magdeburg By being behind the frontlines of WWI, Breslau avoided
Law with city planners expanding it to incorporate many of damage and was even able to recover quickly from the
the outlying settlements, shifting the city centre away from economic impoverishment that came with the end of
Ostrów Tumski (which became the city’s religious centre) to the conflict. In 1930 it was chosen to host the ‘Deutsche
the other side of the river, building a moat and defensive Kampfspiele’ - a showcase of German athletics after Germany
walls around it, and laying out the market square as it was banned from the Olympic Games. The Nazi Party
appears to this day. Settlers flocked to the city, and ethnic developed one of its largest support bases in Breslau, which
Germans soon became the most dominant demographic. played a large role in voting them to power in 1933. In 1938
state-organised persecution against the city’s minorities,
The Piast line petered out in 1335 when Duke Henryk VI died particularly Poles and Jews, began in earnest and those
without an heir and earlier treaties dictated the transfer of the who did not escape were killed or sent to the network
region to Bohemian rule once again. Under the Luxemburg of concentration and forced labour camps set up around
dynasty the city generally prospered, but the dominance Breslau, where many would die later. Safely removed from
of the merchant class, which controlled the Town Council, the frontlines of WWII, Breslau became a haven for refugees
lead to strife with the church and lower classes resulting in and its population swelled to close to one million. In August
outright revolt in 1418 when guildsmen stormed the Town 1944, with the Soviet Army approaching, the city was
Hall and beheaded the mayor. Printing with movable type declared ‘Festung Breslau’ - a closed fortress to be held at all
began in 1475, with many variations of the city’s name costs. When Nazi Commander Karl Hanke lifted a ban on the
appearing, including Wretslav, Wratislav, Prezzla, Presslay and evacuation of civilians in January 1945 it was too late: railway
Bresslau. By 1526 - when Bohemian King Louis Jagiellon’s connections had been destroyed or were overcrowded and
death ended prolonged fighting over Bohemian succession tens of thousands froze to death in minus 20 degree ice
and transferred the city to the Austrian Habsburg storms. Some 200,000 civilians remained in the city as the
dynasty - the Reformation had reached the Silesian capital Soviet siege began in February; the Siege of Breslau lasted 82
and Protestantism had become the dominant religion. days before capitulation occurred on May 6th, 1945. It was
During the Thirty Years War (1618-48), the city fought one of the last German cities to fall, outlasting Berlin by four
to maintain its Protestantism, and though occupied, days and the war in Europe officially ended only two days
eluded physical destruction, emerging from the conflict as after Breslau’s defeat. 50% of the Old Town was in ruin and
one of the only Silesian cities to remain Protestant under the western and southern suburbs were 90% obliterated.
Habsburg rule. However plague and war had taken their Tens of thousands had died defending it.
toll on the population, cutting it in half. During the Counter-
reformation, many Catholic orders were encouraged by the Under the terms of the Potsdam Conference, Lower Silesia
emperor to settle in Silesia’s capital, including the Jesuits who passed to Poland and its largest city became known as
founded the Wrocław Jesuit Academy in 1702, which would ‘Wrocław.’ Poles began arriving immediately as forced
later grow into today’s Wrocław University. deportations from Eastern Polish lands annexed by the
14 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Basic History
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
990: Piast Duke Mieszko I seizes Silesia, incorporating
it into Poland
1000: A bishopric is established on Ostrów Tumski
1163: The city becomes capital of the Duchy of Silesia
1241: Mongols devastate the city, the market square is
laid out, Germans become the dominant ethnic
group
1335: Silesia is incorporated into the Kingdom of
The flood of 1997. Photo by Piotr Hawałej Bohemia
Soviet Union and the forced expulsion of Wrocław’s 1418: The city’s guilds revolt, beheading the mayor
German population took place simultaneously, leading to and six members of City Council
a huge influx of Eastern Poles into Wrocław, particularly 1453: John of Capistrano leads inquisition against
from Lwów (now L’viv, Ukraine); Polish cultural Jewish population who are executed or forced
treasures from Lwów came with them including the to convert to Christianity
Fredo monument on the market square, the Racławice 1526: The Austrian Habsburg dynasty absorbs
Panorama painting and the collection of the Ossolineum Bohemia, including Silesia
library (see Sightseeing). A long period of reconstruction 1702: Founding of the Jesuit Academy, today’s
followed, characterised equally by Polonisation and de- Wrocław University
Germanisation; all German monuments and inscriptions 1741: Breslau becomes part of Prussia
were removed and Wrocław’s non-Jewish cemeteries 1807: Napoleon captures the city and its medieval
were destroyed. At the same time Sovietisation was also defences are destroyed
beginning: businesses were nationalised, Polish political
1871: Unification of the German Empire; Breslau enters
and religious leaders were imprisoned and following
as its third most prominent city
rigged elections the full communist takeover of Poland
was complete by 1948. The Communist authorities took 1913: The Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) is built
full credit for restoring Lower Silesia and boasted of their 1933: The Nazis comes to power in Germany
success rebuilding the city and incorporating it into the 1938: Kristallnacht - Jewish synagogues torched,
Soviet system; this was typified by Wrocław’s hosting homes looted and burned
of the propaganda parade known as the Recovered 1944: Festung Breslau - the city is declared a closed
Territories Exhibition in 1948. fortress and prepares for Soviet bombardment
1945: Breslau capitulates on May 6th, WWII ends and
By the late 1950s Wrocław had returned to its former Lower Silesia becomes part of Poland
population level and established itself as one of Poland’s
1947: Communists consolidate power after rigged
main urban, economic, cultural and academic centres
elections
despite being hamstrung by the political and economic
conditions of the People’s Republic of Poland. In August 1948: Wrocław hosts the Recovered Territories
of 1980, Wrocław’s workers joined the general strike Exhibition
called by Gdańsk’s Solidarity Trade Union led by Lech 1980: The Solidarity trade union initiates strikes across
Wałęsa. Martial law went into effect from 1981 to 1983, Poland
and Wrocław remained a centre of anti-Communist 1981: The Polish military imposes Martial Law.
opposition throughout the 80s until Communism Solidarity activists are arrested and interned
crumbled in 1989 and Wałęsa became Poland’s first 1983: Martial Law lifted
freely elected president since WWII. In 1990, Wrocław’s 1989: First free post-war elections in PL
first post Communist city council restored the city’s 1997: The Odra and Oława rivers overflow flooding a
historical coat of arms, symbolising the city’s acceptance third of downtown Wrocław
of its entire history (even the German bits). In July 1997
the city sustained the worst flooding in post-war Central 1999: Poland joins NATO
Europe when the Odra River overflowed its banks leaving 2004: Poland joins the EU
one third of the city under water. Poland joined the 2010: President Lech Kaczyński and 95 other Polish
European Union in 2004 and Wrocław has emerged as delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
one of the country’s leading cities, attracting significant Russia
foreign investment. The city was chosen to host matches 2012: Wrocław hosts the Euro 2012 Football
during the 2012 European Football Championships, is to Championships
be European Capital of Culture in 2016 and host the 2016: Wrocław will be European Capital of Culture
World Games in 2017.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 15
 Culture & Events

Mia Ar
A t Gallery
alllll ryy

NOWE HORYZONTY
ART GALLERIES QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel. (+48) 71 786
FOOD ART GALLERY 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15
QA-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, lok.1, tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04, minutes after last show. Tickets 11-28zł.
www.foodartgallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
PHILHARMONIC
MIA ART GALLERY NATIONAL FORUM OF MUSIC
Mia is a bright and modern art gallery that recently popped QA-4, Pl. Wolności 1, tel. (+48) 71 342 20 01, www.nfm.
up on Wrocław’s cultural map thanks to the “All That Art!” wroclaw.pl. Box office open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun two
Foundation. The exhibitions here are constantly changing, hours before the event. Tickets 10-100zł.
with a new one opening every 2-3 weeks. The gallery also
aims to connect art and business by hosting special lectures,
training courses, and presentations.QF-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja BALLET
61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www.miaartgallery.com. 19.12 SATURDAY
Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. MOSCOW CITY BALLET - SWAN LAKE
This timeless and well-known performance, with its costumes,
POLISH POSTER GALLERY music, and fantastic story that has been choreographed so
QE-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, flawlessly, needs no introduction. It is with dexterity and
www.polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed perfection that the dancers of the Moscow City Ballet bring
Mon, Sun. Admission free. U Peter Tchaikovsky’s fantasy “Swan Lake” back to life once more.
Briefly, the story is of girls that have been turned into swans
and live on a lake of tears - a curse that can only be broken by
CINEMAS a prince’s love. But even if you know the story, the world class
LOWER SILESIAN FILM CENTRE performance by the Moscow City Ballet is enough reason to
QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 64a, tel. (+48) 71 793 79 00, attend a second time.QA-4, National Forum of Music, Plac
www.dcf.wroclaw.pl. Box office open depending on Wolności 1, www.makroconcert.com. Event starts at 19:00.
repertoire. Tickets 10-26zł. Tickets 125-165zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
MULTIKINO
QA-5, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2-4 (Arkady
Wrocławskie), tel. (+48) 71 758 32 24, www.multikino. What’s going on?
pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket
last showtime. Tickets 19-35zł.
16 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Culture & Events
CONCERTS
27.09 SUNDAY
JAMES ARTHUR
The X Factor winner James Arthur is a spunky, if vacant-
gazed 27-year-old from Middlesbrough, England. His
debut single “Impossible” came out in 2012, soon after
the reality show finale, and went on to sell an impressive
2.5 million copies, winning an NRJ Music Award along
the way. Arthur’s debut album, named after himself,
came out in November of 2013, drawing critical reviews
but peaking at no. 2 on UK charts.QA-3, Eter Club, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 19. Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 110-150zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00).

10.10 SATURDAY
CONCHA BUIKA
Concha Buika got her start in the music-industry as a
bassist and drummer, but after struggling to get hired as
a female drummer, she turned to singing, and the rest is
history. Born in Spain, a daughter to Equatoguinean African
refugees, Buika draws influence from a wide range of
genres, including jazz, pop, flamenco and more. A unique
element of this award-winning singer’s concerts is the
use of a cajón, a wooden box drum native of Peru.QA-4,
National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1. Concert starts
at 19:00. Tickets 60-120zł. Available at www.eventim.pl
and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00).

27.10 TUESDAY
CHRIS BOTTI
American smooth jazz trumpeter and Grammy award
winner Chris Botti evidently likes visiting Poland, having
toured here eight or so times before - welcome back.
Throughout his career he’s collaborated with Sting, Aretha
Franklin, Bob Dylan, Diana Krall, Rod Stewart, and countless
others, while Andrea Bocelli, Mark Knopfler, and Vince Gill
are all featured on his (newest) 2012 album Impressions.
QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1. Concert starts
at 18:00. Tickets 129-249zł. Available at www.eventim.
pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00).

13.12 SUNDAY
VIENNA MOZART ORCHESTRA
What would Vienna be without its Mozart Orchestra? Well,
all right - the city would still be great with its abundance
of cultural wealth, but the truth is that the Orchestra has
been a fixture of Viennese concert life since its foundation
in 1986, and it’s difficult to imagine its lack. Now they are
bringing the magic of Mozart to the Wrocław Congress
Center - just in time for Christmas, too.QI-4, Wrocław
Congress Center, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.
com. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 159-239zł. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 17
 Culture & Events
15.12 TUESDAY
GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA
The Glenn Miller Orchestra was founded in 1938 by
- you guessed it - Glenn Miller, but the man died six
years later when the plane he was flying in was lost
over the English Channel. The band continued under
new leadership; in 1953 Hollywood released The Glenn
Miller Story, greatly boosting their popularity. Sixty
years later, the orchestra is still touring (with all new
members, naturally).QI-4, Wrocław Congress Center,
ul. Wystawowa 1, www.makroconcert.com. Event
starts at 19:00. Tickets 125-185zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 -
21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).

EXHIBITIONS
19.09 FRIDAY  30.09 WEDNESDAY
INTERACTIVE EXHIBITION - EXTERNALIZER -
PATRYCJA MASTEJ
Envisioning the museum as a snail’s shell, protective
of the outside world, but also sheltering those inside,
Patrycja Mastej has built an interactive exhibit that will
allow museum visitors to enter a space where they
can break through the shell and express themselves.
Immersed in sound, and seated in chairs that surround
the body, this exhibit is truly an experience, as the
landscape of body parts breaking the shell is revealed.
QWrocław Contemporary Museum, Pl. Strzegomski
2a (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 356 42 67, www.
muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Mon
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 10/5zł, family ticket
15zł. Thu admission free.

19.06 FRIDAY  27.09 SUNDAY

ZVI HECKER. PAGES OF THE BOOK
Zvi Hecker, a Kraków-born Israeli architect, is known for
his geometric, polyhedron-rich creations including Bat
Yam City Hall, Dubiner’s residential building and the Spiral
Apartment House in Ramat Gan, the Heinz-Galinski Jewish
school in Berlin, and the Kristallnacht memorial in Berlin.
Pages of the Book is a retrospective exhibition showcasing
the best of his work.QC-3, Architecture Museum, ul.
Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78, www.ma.wroc.
pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 10/7zł, Wed free.

03.09 THURSDAY  11.10 SUNDAY

IAIN PATTERSON OUT WEST
A lecturer at the School of Drawing and Painting at the
College of Art in Edinburgh, Iain Patterson has been
actively engaged with teaching and working with student
organisations for 30 years. Now retired, he has begun to
focus on his own work and gallery. Visit the exhibit on
opening night to hear Patterson’s lecture “Architecture
without Architects”.QC-3, Architecture Museum, ul.
Bernardyńska 5, www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Wed 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Tickets 10/7zł, Wed free.
18 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Culture & Events
08.09 TUESDAY  25.09 FRIDAY
MANFRED DÖRNER GUITAR FESTIVAL
Manfred Dörner will visit Poland, for the first time, in order
to gain a better understanding of the country, while 02.10 FRIDAY  07.10 WEDNESDAY
showing his works at the mia Gallery. By profession, Dörner WROCŁAW GUITAR FESTIVAL
is a locksmith and dental technician, but his passion is Poland has a great music scene and we defy anyone
art. Born in Wiesbaden in 1945, he eventually moved to with an ounce of musical interest to not get excited by
Freiburg, Germany. It was there that he ventured into the the Wrocław Guitar Festival. The festival, in its 19th year,
creative world, pursuing sculpture. And upon moving to will be focused on the talents of females this year. The
Berlin in 1991, his passion for painting was discovered and deep sensitivity, extraordinary talent, electrifying energy
explored. His paintings have brought him both happiness and finesse of interpretation of the artists featured for this
and freedom, and he uses them to find sensitivity, courage, year’s Wrocław Guitar Festival GUITAR + Ladies will surely
and the pursuit of harmony.QF-4, Mia Art Gallery, ul. impress any audience. Still going strong after all these
Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 601 30 22 55, www. years, the festival will combine classical styles, including
miaartgallery.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, flamenco, world music, finger picking and much,
Sun. Admission free. much more. While the focus is on guitar, the festival
encompasses a wide variety of sounds, instruments and
12.11 THURSDAY  31.01 SUNDAY other art forms, including film, art and dance. Not just one
CHAIRS, STOOLS, ARMCHAIRS. for the ‘musos’ - the Wrocław Guitar Festival is something
A BRIEF HISTORY OF SEATS that can be enjoyed by anyone into alternative culture.
Enjoy an exhibit revolving around seats, and their place in 7 concerts will showcase the most outstanding female
the history of furniture. Learning about the evolution of artists from Austria, Bulgaria, Spain, Canada, Germany,
the chair, along with its related counterparts, visitors will Poland, and the United States.
have the opportunity to learn and explore the evolvement Friday 02.10 Lagrimosa Beltà
of armchairs, stools, sofas, chaise lounges etc...Pieces Classics and Greek vocals
have been taken from the collections of the National Wrocław Main Train Station, Concert Hall, ul.
Museum, which boasts one of the largest collections of Piłsudskiego 105, B-6
antique furniture in Poland.QD-3, National Museum, Concert starts at 19:00. Admission free.
Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51 50, Friday 02.10 CARisMA
www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Vangelis, Einaudi, Chopin...
Closed Mon, Tue (except the last Tue of the month). Wrocław Main Train Station, Concert Hall, ul.
From mid-October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Piłsudskiego 105, B-6
Closed Mon, Tue (except the last Tue of the month). Concert starts at 20:30. Admission free.
Admission 15/10zł. Saturday 03.10 Felice Quartet, Martha Masters
The first classic guitar in USA
Wrocław Main Train Station, Concert Hall, ul.
FESTIVALS Piłsudskiego 105, B-6
06.09 SUNDAY  19.09 SATURDAY Concert starts at 17:30. Admission free.
WRATISLAVIA CANTANS Saturday 03.10 Susan & Martin Weinert Synergy Duo
Celebrating its 50th anniversary, the Wratislavia Cantans The explosion of energy and jazz
event is still considered the most important festival of Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant, ul. Oławska 13, B-3
classical music in this part of Europe. To celebrate this Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 20-40zł.
historic year, the festival will feature performances from Sunday 04.10 Beata Będkowska-Huang
the very first concerts in 1966; as well as, special events Bach and Spanish music
including the performance of Handel’s Alexander’s Feast, Wrocław Main Train Station, Concert Hall, ul.
conducted by artistic director Giovanni Antonini (see full Piłsudskiego 105, B-6
schedule on website for all performances). A member of Concert starts at 17:00. Admission free.
the European Festivals Association, the Wratislavia Cantans Sunday 04.10 Julia Malischnig & Jacques le Roux
festival offers something for everyone and is well worth Magic of Southern Africa
a look.QA-4, National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, Wrocław Main Train Station, Concert Hall, ul.
www.wratislaviacantans.pl. Tickets 30-150zł. VIP tickets Piłsudskiego 105, B-6
80-300zł. Available at www.bilety.nfm.wroclaw.pl, www. Concert starts at 18:30. Admission free.
eventim.pl, Empik (Rynek 50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Wednesday 07.10 Niña Pastori
Sun 11:00 - 21:00) and at the venue before the concerts. Sing Flamenco
National Forum of Music, Pl. Wolności 1, A-4
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 69-249zł.
Qwww.gitaraplus.pl. Tickets 20-249zł. Available at
vine.co/inyourpocket www.tbox24.pl and before the concerts.

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 Culture & Events
20.10 TUESDAY  25.10 SUNDAY
AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL
Now in its sixth year, the American Film Festival, aims to break
down the stereotype that all American films are commercialised
mass-productions by presenting films that would not typically
make it to Poland. From small unknown directors, to films
that were first screened at Sundance, the festival will include
screenings, seminars, panel discussions, and lectures meant to
go beyond film and into the larger topics of culture and politics.
QA-3, Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21,
www.americanfilmfestival.pl. Tickets 20zł, festival pass 175-
200zł. Available at www.kinonh.pl.

MISC. EVENTS
13.09 SUNDAY
MAMAVILLE
For just one day, Mamaville presents a gathering of
designers, brands, and companies that are all related
to pregnancy, maternity, or parenting. Whether you are
expecting, a new mom, or already have a full brood of little
ones, there will be something for everyone at this event.
Learn about the latest products, take part in workshops
or presentations, there will be a section for exhibitors,
an educational zone, and even a cooking area!QBrowar
Mieszczeńki, ul. Hubska 44, www.mamaville.pl.

BAZAR SMAKOSZY
Every Sunday join the fun at the Bazar Smakoszy, to enjoy gourmet
foods both locally and regionally sourced; as well as, appearances
of deliciousness from within Poland and internationally. Expect
everything and anything related to food!QG-6, Browar
Mieszczański, ul. Hubska 44. Open 10:00 - 16:00.

OPERA
25.11 WEDNESDAY
CHOPIN - GIACOMO OREFICE
Sure, you know that Chopin was a brilliant Polish composer, a
master of the polonaise, mazurkas, and nocturnes. But did you
know that the great pianist inspired an opera as well? In 1901
Italian composer Giacomo Orefice finished his work entitled
simply Chopin, a somewhat magnified retelling of Frederic’s life
and times. Though the opera was not a huge hit, it is obligatory
viewing for true Chopin fans.QA-4, Wrocław Opera, ul.
Świdnicka 35, tel. (+48) 71 370 88 80, www.opera.wroclaw.
pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 20-80zł. Available at Wrocław
Opera Box office (open 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00).

SPECIAL EVENTS
20.11 FRIDAY  22.12 TUESDAY
CHRISTMAS FAIR
Every year, there is a Christmas Fair organised on Wrocław’s
Market Square. Starting at the end of November and running
up to December 22, the annual fair does a charming job
of filling the city’s gift boxes and socks above the fireplace.
Entertained by the “Bajkowy Lasek”, a place where they can
hear and see some Christmas stories, children will be too
20 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Culture & Events
busy to notice one of their parents slip off to choose the
best on offer and grabbing some additional bites like grilled
‘oscypek’ sheep cheese from the Polish mountains and
a mug of mulled wine. Its a great way to start or end your
Christmas shopping, and a fine alternative to overcrowded
shopping malls.QA/B-3, Rynek/ul. Świdnicka/ul. Oławska,
www.jarmarkbozonarodzeniowy.com. Open 10:00 -
21:00. Admission free.

SPORT
13.09 SUNDAY
WROCŁAW MARATHON
In its 33rd year, the Wrocław Marathon will host over
5,000 runners. The race will start from Al. Paderewskiego
and finish 42.195 kilometres later at Olympic Stadium.
Sign up to run, or just go out and cheer the participants
on!Qwww.wroclawmaraton.pl. Event starts at 09:00.
Registration fee 120-150zł.

THEATRE
17.10 SATURDAY  24.10 SATURDAY
INTERNATIONAL THEATRE FESTIVAL
In its 8th year, the Dialog Festival will cover 8 days and many
stages to present the theme of wandering, with the hope
that this wandering will lead to discoveries and experiences.
This year the festival presents the motto “The World Without
God”, and creates a discussion about humankind’s never
ending need for happiness and fulfillment.QEvent takes
place in various locations, www.dialogfestival.pl. Tickets
35-100zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek
50, B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).

15.11 SUNDAY
NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE IN HD - HAMLET
The National Theatre brings the stage to the big screen
again with the showing of Shakespeare’s “Hamlet”,
starring Academy Award Winner Benedict Cumberbatch.
As we all know, the classic story of revenge, tragedy, and
war takes centerstage in this ageless production.QA-3,
Nowe Horyzonty, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 19a-21, tel.
(+48) 71 786 65 66, www.kinonh.pl. Spectacle starts at
18:00. Tickets 40/30zł. Box office open from 09:00 to 15
minutes after last show.

21.12 MONDAY
LORD OF THE DANCE
The Irish music/dance show extraordinaire is on tour again.
Produced and directed by the multi-talented Michael Flatley,
whose lightning-quick footwork set two Guinness World
Records for tapping speed (28 and 35 taps per second, if you
were wondering), the musical tells a classic tale of good vs evil
based on ancient Irish folklore. If you miss them in Wrocław,
the troupe will also be performing in Warsaw, Katowice and
Gdańsk.QI-4, Centennial Hall, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.
makroconcert.com. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 125-
195zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Rynek 50,
B-3; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00).
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 21
 Restaurants

Start
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The diversity and quality of restaurants in Wrocław is ever CHEAP

improving - as is the quality of service - and the city’s Wrocław is full of cheap eats. Try BLT & Flatbreads
respectable number of international restaurants reflects its (American), and see our Quick Eats section (p.27) for local
status as a thriving urban centre. While In Your Pocket once highlights like Las, and Patelnia. If it’s Polish you’re after,
tried to list every eatery in the city centre, the expansion head to Chatka Przy Jatkach or Konspira, and later on hit
of the market and sheer redundancy of many restaurants any Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.48) for a late night refuel.
now make that pursuit impractical. In our dining section
you’ll find reviews of the most noteworthy and high-profile LADS
establishments in town, from those well-hidden places you Bernard (International) offers litre steins of exclusive Czech
shouldn’t miss, to prime locations you should swerve. While beer and plates piled high with hot snacks for sharing, while
our print guide carries a large selection of restaurants, if you the costumed gents of Pod Fredra (Polish) will keep you
can’t find it here you’ll most certainly find it on our website plied with beer and brats all day and night. Alternatively,
(wrocław.inyourpocket.com), where we list dozens more head to The Winners Pub (p.49) for precision steaks with
reviews and encourage you to leave your own comments a view of the match.
about the places you’ve visited.
COUPLES
All IYP reviews are completely subjective, unsolicited and See our picks under ‘Splurge,’ all of which will impress with
updated regularly to ensure accuracy at press time. The their high quality food, or go for dinner and a concert at
figures we quote in brackets represent the least and most Vertigo (International). Boats also routinely score high
expensive main courses on the menu. The hours we list are romantically, so moor up at Barka Tumska (International).
not necessarily the opening hours, but rather the times
between which you can expect the chef to be working. FAMILIES
Below are some specific recommendations depending on The kids will get a kick out of dining on the water in Barka
what you might be looking for. Smacznego! Tumska (International), where they also get their own
menu and play area, or discovering the ‘secret room’ in
SPLURGE Konspira (Polish), which also boasts a play area, cheap
By common consent JaDka remains Wrocław’s best Polish food, and a lovely garden.
restaurant, while Le Bistrot Parisien (French), Brasserie
27, and relative newcomers Food Art Gallery and SPECIAL DIET
Sukiennice 7 (all International) round out the city’s top 5 Vegans have it good in Wrocław, just see our Vegetarian
(in our esteem, anyway). For fine dining in an unforgettable section (p.39). Vega is right on the market square, raw
location head to the Monopol’s rooftop Restauracja foodies have Machina Organika, and fine gluten-free
Acquario (International). dining can be found in La Maddalena (Mediterranean).
22 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted

B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled

S Take away X Smoking room available Get to know the original and chic
character of French cuisine
V Home delivery W Wi-fi connection

E Live music

AMERICAN
BLT & FLATBREADS
This upscale American-inspired (free ketchup without
asking! large sodas!) sandwich and salad bar deftly balances
a somewhat grimy dive-bar location (that’s a good thing)
with a sharp, clean, high-ceilinged interior to great effect.
The menu would hardly be inventive if not for the fact
that a decent sandwich is a rare thing in this country; as
such it’s a revelation. Choose from a wide range of quickly-
served variations on the burger, BLT and Philly cheesesteak. ul. Nożownicza 1D
The pizzas are delicious, the salads served on flatbread are 071- 341-05-65
creative, the presentation is top notch and the prices are fair [email protected]
and affordable across the board. Open late, so you’ve got time www.lebistrotparisien.pl
to get a couple cheeky ones in with the crowd stumbling past
the window before stopping by, or just do your drinking here.
QA-3, ul. Ruska 58/59, tel. (+48) 71 796 33 44, www.blt.
wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (19-28zł). GBSW

NEW
MOABURGER
Like most things from New Zealand, Moaburger is very
proud, making it clear from the kiwi iconography all over
the interior that this is a NZ take on the classic American
burger and shake shack. As far as the food goes, they’ve 29.99
certainly super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a ZŁ
plate just wouldn’t do) piled high with the topping of your
choice, and you might even consider splitting one with a
friend if you have any other meals planned later in the day.
Easy to eat and darn enjoyable, though you’ll discover it’s
not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries, and
drink coming in over 30zł.QA-3, Pl. Solny 10, tel. (+48) 71
330 74 82, www.moaburger.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (11-28zł). T6G
BSW GET TO KNOW THE TASTE

ROCK BURGER OF TRADITIONAL

Aiming to make the now commonplace experience of POLISH CUISINE
eating a burger a ‘transformative’ one, Rock Burger curiously

KONSPIRA - CAFE RESTAURANT CLUB

combines classic rock attitude with Eastern philosophy
to set themselves apart from the growing pack. Grilled
on volcanic rock and prepared in the spirit of the Five Pl. Solny 11, Wrocław | konspira.org
Transformations, these tall, jaw-busting burgers are named
after rock’n’roll anthems and feature delicious flavour
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 Restaurants
combinations. The small nook they’re served in is plenty
hip, with its alt-rock soundtrack, and light fixtures made
from cassette tapes and empty bottles. Non-meat options
are also available, and if you’re lucky you might catch a local
speed eating contest. In two words...Zen Halen?QB-3, ul.
Szewska 27-27A, tel. (+48) 733 53 09 17. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (14-24zł). T6VGBSW

RODEO GRILL STEAK HOUSE

Hardly the kitsch cowboy cuisine you might expect from
the name, this steakhouse maintains the high standards
of Galeria Italiano - Wrocław’s modern restaurant corridor.
Burgers are sequestered to only a brief requisite mention
at the end of the placemat menu, which is primarily a
range of steaks including T-bone, porterhouse and rib-
eye, prepared in the open kitchen in the corner. Our
roast beef was commendable, but if you want your meat
other than medium rare, make sure you say so (no one
asked us). An excellent beer list includes Svyturys Baltas,
La Trappe, Bishop’s Finger, Opat and others specifically
selected to complement steak. The simple, airy interior is
neither too classy nor too casual and has a friendly family
atmosphere that keeps its tables as full as its patrons.
QA-2, ul. Więzienna 21 (Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71
343 20 71. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-99zł). 6GBS
W

SOCZEWKA
A wide and nuanced assortment of delicious gourmet
burgers on the market square, including the guac- and
nacho-loaded chipotle burger, a chorizo burger, beet
burger, salmon burger and more. Couples can order the
mini-burger set for 52zł, or plonk down with your friends
for a platter of worldly whiskies. There’s also a wide array of
mojitos and beer cocktails, and seating opposite the Town
Hall, or in the sharp interior. When we’re going through
cheddar cheese withdrawal, this is our sanatorium; in fact,
it’s hard to over-praise this place - it’s just that good.QA-3,
ul. Rynek 20/21, tel. (+48) 516 01 51 65, www.soczewka.
wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:30,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Note that opening hours are
subject to change. (27-83zł). TUGBSW

SZTRASS BURGER
Though elusively located, the word is definitely out on
the cleverly-named Sztrass Burger, which stays packed all
afternoon with students, hipsters and families alike, eager
to get their mouths around Wrocław’s tastiest burgers. The
menu is curt and creative; be bold and try a ‘Karolburger’
whose beef patty comes mixed with anchovies, blue
cheese and chives, and comes topped with arugula,
carmelised pear with ginger, and a pepper-lemon sauce.
Burgers conveniently come in two sizes for varying
appetites, vegetarians have some killers options as well,
and don’t miss the sweet potato fries and homemade apple
cider. With a simple interior free of the feeble attempts to
be American that other burger places make, this is pure
Wrocław; bear in mind, however, that Sztrass is so busy, you
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 Restaurants
may have to wait not only for your food, but also for a table.
QA-3, ul. Psie Budy 7/9, tel. (+48) 503 93 79 87. Open
12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 21:00. (14-22zł). 6UG
BSW

FRENCH
LE BISTROT PARISIEN
One of our local favourites for a long time running, this
casual modern bistro openly pays homage to Paris with
framed period photography, fine wines and a lunch menu
redolent of dining in the French capital. The food - from
the steak in Roquefort sauce to the fresh mussels and
creme brulee - is of exceptional quality across the board,
making the relaxed atmosphere all the more refreshing.
A perfect place for convincing your company that you
have good taste, Le Bistrot is a popular congregation point
for ex-pats as well. The staff are very friendly, flirty and
accommodating, and therefore in no way reminiscent of
the eating out experiences we’ve had in the real Paris. We’d
rather be here.QA-2, ul. Nożownicza 1d, tel. (+48) 71 341
05 65, www.lebistrotparisien.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (29-
59zł). GBSW

GREEK
AKROPOLIS
Wrocław has a surprisingly sizable Greek population,
which explains the number of upscale Greek restaurants
right around the Rynek, Akropolis foremost among them.
No breezy seaside villa decor here - Akropolis is all dark
wood, wine-warm elegance almost compelling you to buy
an obligatory bottle of red. The atmosphere is a bit of a
throwback and has a certain Cosa Nostra appeal, with well-
dressed patrons wining and dining their dames in what is
still one of the best ethnic restaurants in the region. The
menu of seafood and Greek meats from the grill hits the
mark - we ordered lamb and were not disappointed.QA-3,
Rynek 16/17, tel. (+48) 71 343 14 13, www.akropolis.
wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-60zł). GSW

INDIAN
MASALA INDIAN RESTAURANT
Well-positioned just off the market square, Masala does
traditional Indian food in a more contemporary European
style as Indian chefs work in plain view behind two long
bars in the offbeat granite grey interior full of comical,
conical hanging lamps, pop art elephants and colourful
seat cushions. The 22-35zł Express Lunch (served 12:00
- 15:30, Mon-Fri ) fills the seats and represents not only a
great bargain, but a great deal of delicious food. The regular
menu hits all the marks and portions are larger than most
places, earning our earnest recommendation. For those
travelling with little ones, note that a babysitter is on hand
12:00 - 18:00 on weekends.QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 3, tel. (+48)
71 302 69 49, www.masala-grill.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-70zł). TUGBSW
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 Restaurants
INTERNATIONAL
AQUARELLE
The flagship restaurant of Wrocław’s Radisson Hotel,
and famed for its immaculate breakfast buffet (Mon -
Fri 06:30 - 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00). Elegant and
extremely professional, ala carte diners can choose
from a diverse menu of dishes ranging from the pricey
but proven veal tenderloin, to fish and pasta, and will
notice a good selection of cheap, simple kid’s dishes
(all priced around 20zł): a rarity in Poland. A seasonal
courtyard terrace complete with lawn is also an
added bonus for families searching for somewhere
to eat.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 10 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Wroclaw), tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www.radissonblu.
com/hotel-wroclaw. Open 06:30 - 23:00. (24-95zł).
TUGBW

BARKA TUMSKA
Nestled between the proliferation of islands and bridges
just near Ostrów Tumski, this fantastic river barge offers
no less than five unique dining rooms over three levels,
including the Captain’s mess and the outstanding upper
deck - ideal for taking in the sights and sunshine. The
diverse menu of breakfast eats (served all day from 09:00),
budget sandwiches and seasonal Mediterranean-inspired
cuisine (the menu changes every 3 months or so) makes
Barka ideal for brunch, stowing away with a hot date, or
bringing the entire family: kids get their own menu and
play area and will love exploring the corridors of this
unique river diner.QC-1, ul. Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48)
71 322 60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Open 13:00 -
23:00. (25-38zł). TUGB

BERNARD
We’ll go along with the crowd and admit that this
trendy brewery/restaurant is one of the most alluring
locales on the market square. A stylish, airy, three-level
interior with a long inviting bar, Bernard is characterised
by closely arranged tables which don’t offer any privacy
but contribute to the casual atmosphere where the
menu is your placemat and it’s perfectly acceptable
to just enjoy a drink without eating. To that end, they
have their own beer in dark and light, as well as bottled
choices including a decent amber and four alcky-free
flavours which we wouldn’t know anything about;
enjoy their draughts in glasses growing from 0.4 to
2 litres. The food is nothing to overlook with a menu
ranging from nachos to Polish classics like golonka and
the upper level tables in the window are a great place
to take your date, but reserve ahead.QB-3, Rynek 35,
tel. (+48) 71 344 10 54, www.bernard.wroclaw.pl.
Open 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:30. (31-83zł).
T6UEGBSW

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26 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

 Restaurants
QUICK EATS
For more fast dining options, get away from the fast
food franchises and get adventurous by visiting a milk
bar (p.40), Polish Snacks & Shots Bar (p.48), or one of
the fantastic local institutions listed below.

LAS/ZUPA
Building off the runaway success of their soup kitchen
at ul. Szewska 24/26 (B-3), Zupa has opened a second,
more proper location to purvey their delicious soups
- this one featuring more tables, an expanded (but
concise) menu of entrees, and open later. Dubbed
‘Las’ (Forest), the interior offers plenty of nice design
touches and a mezzanine, but the space is somewhat
poorly organised, and its popularity means it can be
just as packed as the original location. It’s not hard
to understand why - the food is cheap and delicious,
and there’s a certain camaraderie between the clients
and staff that makes you feel like you’re supporting
your friends just by being here. Note that the soups (5
veggie, 5 with meat) are served till they run out and
after 17:30 they are half price!, the rest of Las’s menu
is served until midnight. Recommended.QA-3, ul.
Igielna 14, tel. (+48) 733 87 33 07, www.zupa.
wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
24:00. (4-16zł). 6GSW

PATELNIA
This tiny food hatch dishes out some of the finest
cheap, fast food in Wrocław. The menu isn’t just burgers
(for a change), but also quesadillas, dosa (a stuffed
Indian-style pancake), and amazing ‘rilettes’ - a ciabatta
stuffed with your choice of stewed pork, turkey or wild
boar meat (seriously, you gotta try it). The gluten-free
crowd can also rejoice thanks to the pure corn-flour
tortillas and rice flour pancakes. Screw table service,
this is gourmet street food that you’ll love, and it’s open
late on weekends.QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29A, tel. (+48)
503 55 10 57. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
24:00. (8-20zł). GS

ZZ TOP
The ‘Z’s stand for ‘zupa’ (soup) and ‘zapiekanki’ - a filling
Polish fast food specialty that is essentially the bottom
half of a baguette with mushrooms, cheese and the
additional toppings of your choice. This is definitely
the place to try one, as the bread and other ingredients
are actually fresh, not frozen (sadly, this is not the norm
elsewhere). As for the soups, they change daily and
can be ordered in 3 sizes; during our visit spicy chilli,
apple-onion, split pea, and bean-bacon were on offer.
Wrocław’s fast food culture is steadily improving, and
this is one of the places leading the charge.QA-3, ul.
Kazimierza Wielkiego 25/1A, tel. (+48) 518 29 42 74.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
NS

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 Restaurants
BRASSERIE 27
Fancy and indeed flavoursome, this place is owned by the hotel
Europeum but worthy of its separate entrance. A mega modern,
glass fronted appearance is complemented by designer hanging
lights and dark woods. The reassuringly short menu starts with
Italian and spans steak and also fish dishes, staying mostly within
the bounds of Mediterranean cuisine. Friendly service and an
award winning chef make this one of the better places in the city
to eat.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a (Europeum Hotel),
tel. (+48) 71 371 44 71, www.brasserie27.com. Open 07:00 -
10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (30-72zł). UGBSW

CZARY MARY
Inside the new Ibis Styles hotel, the design of this charming
restaurant is modern and somewhat minimal, enhanced by
high contrast colours, floor to ceiling windows looking onto
the train station across the street, and - most of all - delightful
Alice in Wonderland murals by local artist Szur Szur. The service
is classy and the menu is a concise list of beautifully presented
entrees that combine unique flavours into creative creations like
the duck breast with young beets and carrots, radish, snake garlic,
ruccola, green beans and a potato puree. For such a seemingly
casual, almost whimsical, environment, this is surprisingly upscale
dining, and a great choice for planning meetings or a meal
immediately upon arrival by train.QC-5, ul. Plac Konstytucji 3
Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48 20, www.czarymary-restauracja.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-74zł). TUGBSW

DOBRA KARMA
This health-minded and socially conscious slow food
eatery turns out popular whole-meal pizzas and delicious
dinners that differ each day, depending on the season.
Though not strictly vegetarian, caveman diet deniers will
have plenty to choose from, and there’s always at least one
vegan and gluten-free entree. In accordance with the name,
good vibes abound, and you’re likely to find it packed with
students, young families and hipsters from the Nadodrze
neighbourhood.QA-1, ul. Cybulskiego 17, tel. (+48) 517 65
67 50. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (18-30zł). T6GBSW

FOOD ART GALLERY

Plenty of restaurants use their wall space for ‘promoting
young artists,’ but Food Art Gallery’s high-art earnestness
ensures that this sophisticated contemporary art gallery is
also one of the most exclusive restaurants in town. Though
the simple and refined decor aims to keep your attention
on the painted canvas above your table, the artists probably
feel upstaged by head chef Maruisz Kozak’s outstanding
presentation of mouth-watering dishes like honey glazed
barbarie duck breast, wild broccoli, cherries, oatmeal biscuit
and Porto jus. The food is both minimal and imaginative, with
over-riding local and French influences, and the wine list and
service are unimpeachable. Located in a modern apartment
complex on the Oder with two seasonal terraces, FAG is the
perfect place for impressing and conveying seriousness to
potential partners, be they in business or bedroom matters.
QA-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, lok.1, tel. (+48) 885 51 54 04,
www.foodartgallery.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. (36-89zł). T6EGBW
28 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
LE CHEF
One of the hippest looking locales on ul. Więzienna thanks to
the beach chairs all over the pedestrianised street in summer,
this small locale has reinvented itself as a fashionable tapas
and cocktail destination, offering daily lunch specials, finger
foods, salads and mixed drink pitchers for the committed.
From our experience, the chefs certainly know what they’re
doing, as do the bar staff - who have invented several
signature cocktails anyone would be proud of. With few tables
inside the slick interior, most of the space is outside in nice
weather, and this is the perfect place to people-watch and
be seen while also getting off the market square. Note that
the opening hours we list are for the kitchen, but the bar at Le
Chef stays open later.QB-2, ul. Więzienna 31, tel. (+48) 667
45 85 09. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 -
23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-49zł). T6UGBSW

LWIA BRAMA
One of the few places you’ll actually find anything to eat if
you’re strolling Ostrów Tumski, Lwia Brama offers some great
sidewalk seating in the warmer months from which you can
enjoy a drink or a meal while waiting for the lamplighter to
come round and perform that most romantic of Wrocław
rituals - the daily lighting of the district’s gaslamps. In winter the
historic underground cellars aren’t as sprawling as you might
expect, but they’re certainly kept warm by the pizza oven and
also serve as a gallery for local artists (all paintings are for sale).
The menu here sticks to Polish and European standards, with
some dishes prepared in the sous-vide method.QC-2, ul.
Katedralna 9, tel. (+48) 880 00 27 42, www.lwiabrama.pl.
Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (26-69zł). GBSW

MARINA
Seafood and pasta on Wroclaw’s mini-marina, with a small
terrace offering views over the canal. They’ve re-styled the
interior into more of an upscale bar/lounge and the outdoor
garden area is great in the evening for pleasant views and
quiet conversation plus a new exclusive VIP room. If the
weather is too chilly head inside for a cosy cocktail and pay
close attention to their wine list as bottles are available for
take away as well.QB-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48)
502 13 08 93, www.marina.wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(33-72zł). TUIGSW

NEW
OK WINE BAR
Elegant, glitzy, and located right on the waterfront - this
place has everything you’d be looking for in an upscale
wine bar and more. The decor is bright and modern, with
floor-to-ceiling windows letting in lots of natural light or a
nighttime city shimmer so perfect for a business meeting
by day or romantic dinner by night. The wine list is likewise
relievedly short but resoundingly robust (with glasses
beginning from 10zł), but OK also operates as a shop with
over 2000 world vintages. Also on offer: hors d’oeuvres and
a daily three-course lunch from 12:00-16:00 for 36zł (or limit
it to two courses for 29zł).QB-3, ul. Księcia Witolda 1, tel.
(+48) 71 714 21 26, www.okwinebar.com. Open 12:00 -
22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. 6UEGXW
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 Restaurants
POD PAPUGAMI
BREAKFAST Long known as a default Wrocław drinker, it shouldn’t be
forgotten that ‘the Pod’ - in the plummest of plum locations
on the Rynek - serves up some rather good food too. Take
advantage of the three-course 28zł lunch menu, served
Mon-Fri until 17:00, or wait until evening when the terrific
pork steaks will set you up very nicely for a night of cocktails
and live music inside this classy tourist-friendly venue full
of classic movie memorabilia.QA-3, ul. Sukiennice 9a,
BARKA TUMSKA tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.podpapugami.com.pl.
One of the best breakfast menus in town, served all Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (36-80zł).
day, on a boat - can you beat it? Choose between TEGSW
several full breakfast platters (which include tea or
coffee), pancakes, drop scones, eggs your way, bread PRZYSTAŃ (THE HARBOUR)
and cheese platters, porridge, toasted sandwiches and Decked with tall blonde wood chairs and tables and
more.QC-1, ul. Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 decorated with old nautical illustrations and knot-
60 77, www.hotel-tumski.com.pl. Breakfast served tying charts, Przystań nonetheless remains thoroughly
09:00 - 22:00. (8-39zł). TUGB modern matching the design of the well-placed new
BEMA CAFE building it occupies. Across the river from the main
Simply a fabulous place to start the day (or spend an university building, the real reason to dock in this
entire one), the breakfast menu may not bowl you over harbour is the deck seating over the water which
but it’s served all day and includes muesli, oatmeal, offers great views and actually feels like you’re on a
omelettes, breakfast sandwiches, salads and more. Plus, boat. The concise menu offers pastas, risottos and
their amazing coffee is included in the tiny price.QC-1, gorgeous salads - including the very brave chicken
ul. Drobnera 38, tel. (+48) 71 322 02 12. Breakfast liver salad with apple, avocado, orange and parmesan.
served 08:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (11-19zł). QA-2, ul. Księcia Witolda 2, tel. (+48) 502 13 08
93, www.przystan.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat
BREADWAY 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30-78zł). T U
While the rest of the market square is still sleeping, this GSW
bunch is up baking fresh bread, baguettes, pastries and
other sweet and savoury treats to start your day. Enjoy RESTAURACJA ACQUARIO
a coffee and a croissant, or fresh-squeezed orange juice The upscale restaurant on the rooftop terrace of the
and a plate of tapas, in their outside terrace across legendary Hotel Monopol, Acquario offers an enticing,
from the Town Hall, and watch Wrocław slowly wake eclectic menu with a special flair for seafood and innovative
up before your eyes.QA-3, Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 532 06 tasting menus with 3, 5, 7 or 9 dishes to choose from. If
21 89, www.breadway.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 - you’re anything like us, however, you’ll be just as interested
22:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 - 22:00. GBSW in the world-class wine list. There’s really no better way
to relax than with a bottle of red enjoying the fabulous
CENTRAL CAFE views over Wrocław through rose-tinted glasses.QA-4, ul.
This American-style bakery and cafe is open early for Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37
breakfast, offering pastries, cupcakes, quiche, yoghurt, 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open 18:00
oatmeal and over a dozen bagel sandwich possibilities; big - 23:00. 3 dishes(120zł), 5(150zł), 7(210zł) and 9(290zł).
appetites can also order eggs their way and even pancakes. UGBW
QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 794 96 23,
www.centralcafe.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 - 14:30; Sat, RESTAURACJA EUROPEJSKA
Sun 09:00 - 14:30. (8-20zł). TUGBSW This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of
the Hotel Europejski has gone through a similar rebirth.
GISELLE FRENCH BAKERY CAFE The classic environs are highlighted by the same
One of the best breakfast menus we’ve seen in PL, and inviting orange and warm wood tones of the hotel
it’s served all day. Choose from a range of tasty egg which match the modern Polish and transcontinental
concoctions (like fried eggs on toast with avocado, European menu perfectly. The mix of classic dishes
tomatoes, olives and almonds), quiches, pastries and transcends the usual Hotel Restaurant fare and the
French specialties like Croque Madame, Monsieur and presentation and service is truly exceptional. Even
their own excellent Croque Giselle. The delicious coffee if you’re not a guest we suggest stopping in for their
comes in huge mugs and all the bread is baked fresh on continental comprehensive breakfast buffet (6:30-
site daily. Unbeatable.QB-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 10:00) is a great way to start your day!QB-5, ul.
71 725 55 62. Breakfast served 08:00 - 20:00, Sun Piłsudskiego 88 (Europejski Hotel), tel. (+48) 509
10:00 - 19:00. (15-20zł). T6GBSW 35 67 92, www.europejskiwroclaw.pl. Open 06:30 -
21:00. (12-59zł). TUGSW
30 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 SET LUNCH MENU
DINING VENUE BUSINESS MEETING SPOT
(12:00 - 16:00)

OK WINE BAR
WINE BAR / RESTAURANT / SHOP
Wrocław, ul.Księcia Witolda 1 | tel. 71 714 21 26 | www.okwinebar.com
 Restaurants
RESTAURACJA PATIO
An absolutely excellent restaurant, well worth visiting
whether you’re staying in the upstairs hotel or not; in fact
walk-ins would be wise to take advantage of the business
lunch (served Mon-Fri, 12:00-16:00), which offers a
delicious meal that shows off the skill and craft of the chef
and is worth much more than the 28zł you pay. Choose
between two dining areas - the bright, open building
atrium, or the more elegant burgundy and black dining
room with arm chairs and creative glass chandeliers adding
a bit of class. Also they now offer gluten free dishes and a
kids menu. Recommended.QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25,
tel. (+48) 71 375 04 17, www.restauracjapatio.eu. Open
06:45 - 22:30. (30-100zł). TUGW

STARY KLASZTOR (THE OLD MONASTERY)

Though rebuilt after the war, this former Dominican
convent dates back to the early 14th century and was
previously the site of a very upscale restaurant - a fact
which hints at the ‘wow’ factor of its interior. Full of
gorgeous architectural details and high arching ceilings,
it’s a bit like dining in a cathedral, but don’t be mistaken
- you won’t be cloistered off from society here. Aimed at
Wrocław’s student population, there’s an eclectic concert
dY7V¢adPaXVQT]?`]N¢Kf schedule with live music three nights a week on average
cQY in the gothic cellars (check their FB page for details), and a
Qd`]^QWaXVf`]NYKf^Y`QacKd`K[c large beer garden in summer. On top of that, the full menu
of European eats is quite good and the beer selection is
great. If you’re really pinching pennies, the attached Bistro
Nowy Targ is super cheap. Worth investigating for eats,
TIPPING TRIBULATIONS drinks and hijinks.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 1, tel. (+48) 519
89 47 69, www.staryklasztor.com.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00.
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for (10-89zł). 6EGBSW
foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal
to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, SUKIENNICE 7
you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the Certainly one of the most elegant, upscale dining
word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an establishments to open in Wrocław in some time,
indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. Sukiennice 7 offers an outstanding menu of modern Polish
This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and and Mediterranean culinary creations served on slabs of
expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does slate or thinly-sliced tree trunks. A certain theatricality
their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed exists here as the chefs in their funny hats put on a show
for asking for your money back, or conveniently in the open kitchen (surrounded by a long bar), and the
disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be waitresses scurry about wearing in something akin to folk
careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for costumes, while a pianist plays in the evening - during
the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we which time you can expect this place to be packed despite
advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when the ample size of the modern interior. A great place for
handing back the bill and the payment. large group reservations, keep costs down Mon-Fri 12:00
Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid - 16:00 with their lunch specials.QA-3, ul. Sukiennice 7,
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more tel. (+48) 71 342 74 56, www.sukiennice7.pl. Open 12:00
than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner - 24:00. (26-69zł). TUGBSW
may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT
when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually How about dinner and a concert? Head to the best jazz
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because venue in the region for a sophisticated evening of rhythmic
waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you music, killer cocktails (none of which are called ‘Hot Sax’)
won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have and a range of modern fusion-influenced European dishes,
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your like the swingin’ guinea fowl breast on pear-potato puree
server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. with raspberry-balsamic-green pepper mousse - whoa,
Daddio. Concerts begin at 19:00 Tuesday to Thursday,
32 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
and 20:30 on Friday and Saturday (check online for exact
details); reservations recommended.QB-3, ul. Oławska
13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www.vertigojazz.pl. Open
13:00 - 24:00; Sat, Sun 17:00 - 24:00, Mon closed. (22-
45zł). UEGBW

WODNIK RESTAURANT
Within walking distance of the Zoo, the restaurant of the
Wodnik Hotel certainly isn’t a bad option in an area where
choices are limited (and therefore crowded). In keeping
with the nautical theme of the hotel, the emphasis here is
on fresh fish, which they prepare in their own smokehouse
and enhance with herbs from their own garden. Enjoy
tempting dishes like salmon teriyaki or the exotic halibut
lasagna with mussels, shrimp, marinara sauce, capers
and zucchini in the white-scrubbed interior or sunny
seasonal terrace. Get there by taxi, or by walking across the
Zwierzyniecka Footbridge from the south side of the Zoo
(I-5).QH-5, ul. Na Grobli 28 (Wodnik Hotel), tel. (+48) 71
343 36 67, www.wodnik-hotel.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (42-68zł). T6GBW

ITALIAN
CAPRI RISTORANTE PIZZERIA
Found inside the Galeria Italia complex the style here is clear
and simple, with visual distractions essentially limited to the
streetside views and the theatrics of other diners. Choose from
an ambitious range of Italian dishes, with the real emphasis
placed on spaghetti, while the proprietors’ Italian origins are
unmistakable in their influence on the end product. Prices
remain pegged at sensible levels, providing prospective diners
with all the more reason to visit.QB-2, ul. Więzienna 21
(Galeria Italiana), tel. (+48) 71 343 20 71, www.capripizza.
pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (11-120zł). T6GBSW

NEW
LA DOLCE VITA
This new intimate Italian restaurant oozes authenticity, but
you don’t need us to tell you that, your nose knows best.
Although its official name is La Dolce Vita, locals refer to it
as Giovanni’s place - after the charismatic owner and head
chef. He has a lot of specialties but his thin crust pizza with a
wide range of fresh imported toppings will blow you away.
They also have a great selection of seafood and pasta dishes
plus a great wine selection, but it’s the pizza that is truly
perfecto!QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 16, tel. (+48) 71 319 45
59. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (25-60zł). T6GBSW

LA SCALA
Tried and true La Scala enjoys a big reputation amongst
locals, despite revved-up Rynek prices and uneven service
from the bow-tied staff. That’s down to the food no doubt,
with arguably the best Italian in town in the exclusive
upstairs eatery, while the ground floor trattoria offers guests
a cheaper, more concise incarnation of the menu amongst
red-chequered tablecloths, pictures of rural Italy and strings
of garlic.QA-3, Rynek 38, tel. (+48) 71 372 53 94, www.
lascala.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (20-150zł). TBXS
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 Restaurants
JAPANESE
DAREA SUSHI KOREAN - JAPANESE
RESTAURANT
A huge open plan space that does little in the way of décor,
but plenty for the reputation of Korean food. Overseen by
a Korean chap who settled in Poland over a decade ago
Darea offers a cracking menu of both Japanese and Korean
dishes including tangsuyuk (sweet and sour beef baked in
pastry), bulgogi and five grill options where the cooking is
left to the patrons. Highly recommended and a confirmed
favourite of Wrocław’s expats. Take-away on offer at a 15
percent discount.QB-2, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45, tel. (+48) 71
343 53 01, www.darea.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (20-100zł).
TVGBSW

MAHI MAHI
Diverging from Wrocław’s other Japanese establishments,
Mahi Mahi offers a vast menu of hot Japanese and Thai
dishes, including choice steaks, seafood, teppanyaki,
curries and pan-fried noodle dishes (and sushi of course).
Though the diversity of the full menu is admirable, for the
less initiated it may well be overwhelming; fortunately, the
lunch menu (offered Mon-Fri 13:00 - 16:30) provides an
easier decision. Perfect for business and exceeding popular,
the fact that freshly ground wasabi root can be requested
reveals that Mahi Mahi isn’t messing around - this is
authentic Asian cuisine at its best.QB-3, ul. Świdnicka 5
(entrance from ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich), tel. (+48) 71
729 93 95, www.mahimahi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00; Fri,
One of the most prestigious
sushi restaurants in Poland.
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. From
A temple of taste, in a classic November open 12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
Japanese style, gathering 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (15-450zł). T6UG
many loyal customers. SAKANA Sushi Bar SW
Ul. Odrzańska 17/1a
A unique place, perfect 50-113 Wrocław
for an intimate party or tel./fax 071 343 37 10 SAKANA SUSHI BAR
exquisite supper. www.sakana.pl Arguably regarded as the best sushi in the capital, the
Sakana team have expanded to cover Wrocław and the
CATERING AND DELIVERY natives appear to be loving it. Expertly prepared raw fish
TO YOUR HOTEL ROOM AVAILABLE floats by on small boats inside a pleasant white interior
decorated sparingly with bamboo bits and bobs. Definitely
Mos

a one of the addresses to be seen dining in, as proved by

t Po

dzk
ska

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Szew

the crowds of fashionista who prop up the bar.QA-2, ul.

m or

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Plac
ski

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Odrzańska 17/1a, tel. (+48) 71 343 37 10, www.sakana.

Kuź ni

bary Uniw
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Gar
200 meters from
e cka pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-50zł).
Świat
Nowy the Main Square Plac Bis
kupa N T6VGSW
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a

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ska
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Located near the White Stork Synagogue and Jewish

za
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k
Community Centre, Sarah can make as claim as Wrocław’s
Kiełb

Wita
Rusk S two
a Sukie sza
most Jewish restaurant, for whatever that’s worth. The
Krowia

nnic
e
Kurzy budget menu is not kosher, but features traditional Jewish
Psie

Plac So Targ
lny
Bu

dishes, and though reports of their quality and that of the

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service is a little uneven, this is still a great place to spend
Bisku

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la S
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time in our opinion. With plenty of atmosphere thanks to
Świdni

ich

earthy colours, menorah candlelight and loads of antiques,

Sarah is reminiscent of the cafes found in Kraków’s old Jewish
34 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
district and teams with Mleczarnia to create one of the best
seasonal beer gardens in the city.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5,
tel. (+48) 609 99 01 97, www.sarah.wroclaw.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (13-32zł). 6UGBS

STEINHAUS
Endeavouring to capture the scholarly, sophisticated
spirit of inter-war society, the main feature of Steinhaus’
smart dark wood interior is the large chalkboards, casually
scribbled with daily specials, mathematical equations and REAL ITALIAN FOOD
humorous quips attributed to the restaurant’s long-beaked
namesake - Hugo Steinhaus - a well-known Polish-Jewish
mathematician, professor and aphorist. In his honour, the
owners have created a place where the humanities, science
and humour gather at the same table to share some
conversation, libations, and outstanding Jewish Galician
dishes like lamb shank with porridge and dumplings.
Appropriately placed in the District of 4 Denominations,
this multi-faceted venue has character to spare.QE-4, ul.
Włodkowica 11, tel. (+48) 512 93 10 71, www.steinhaus.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (16-58zł). UGBSW

MEDITERRANEAN La Dolce Vita

LA MADDALENA ul. Wita Stwosza 16
With a great location next to the Mleczarnia beer garden, and tel. 71 319 45 59
including seasonal outdoor seating overlooking the White / ladolcevitawroclaw
Stork Synagogue, La Maddelena offers upscale dining in
Wrocław’s former Jewish, currently hipster district. The creme-
coloured, conservatively elegant interior includes homely
touches like wicker lampshades and quilted seat covers, and
can accommodate large groups as well as couples looking FLOWER POWER
for a more intimate date destination. An enticing menu of
Mediterranean dishes, ranging from light tapas to expertly Lads, listen up. In concert with the societal consensus
prepared pastas, makes the art of deciding a challenge and that Polish women are beautiful, the country’s daughters
with the big emphasis on presentation you may be tempted have been dutifully trained to wield their sex in the form
to take out your camera when they arrive. Portions are small of elaborate and flirtatious gender games, and you will be
but delicious, and you’d never guess that 80% of the entrees expected, if not helpless, to play along. One of the most
are gluten-free.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 782 60 important Polish courting rituals involves the presentation
90, www.lamaddalena.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 of flowers to your muse and her mother at almost every
- 23:00. (29-79zł). TUGBSW opportunity. The rules of this game are arbitrarily complex
and antiquated but transpire to the effect of what follows:
VA BENE TRATTORIA Always give an odd number of flowers (or stems) unless
Looking to rise above the recent rash of upscale Italian the occasion is a solemn one, and make sure to remove
restaurants all across the country, Va Bene has diversified to the paper before you arrive. Red is for love; pink is for
offer more Mediterranean dishes and a seasonal menu to potential mothers-in-law and also a good neutral fall-
continue their credible claim as some of the best food in town. back colour when you’re unsure of protocol; yellow is
The interior is suitably sharp and features the original ceiling, for envy and should probably be avoided. You can’t go
which is worth taking a peek at whether you’re hungry or not. wrong with roses, chrysanthemums are for the dead and
Sneak in for the 23.90zł daily lunch menu, and in summer carnations are unpopular due to lingering communist
enjoy people-watching from their market square patio.QB-3, connotations. The rest is on you; good luck and welcome
Rynek 51, tel. (+48) 71 343 83 50, www.vabenerestauracja. to the 18th century.
pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, In Wrocław the tradition of bestowing flowers on local
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (26-78zł). TGBSW beauties is so strong that there’s an entire square - Plac
Solny (A-3) - devoted to their sale. Located just off the
main market square, Plac Solny’s flower market is open
every day of the week and well into the wee hours for
pinterest.com/inyourpocket you late night Lotharios.

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 35

 Restaurants
Wrocław, ul. Kuźnicza 43/45
reservation tel. (071) 343 53 01
[email protected]
korean - japanese restaurant www.darea.pl

THE BEST SUSHI IN THE CITY

POLISH DWÓR POLSKI

ART RESTAURACJA & KAWIARNIA One of the most regal-looking restaurants on the Rynek,
A hotel restaurant that would thrive even without its captive Dwór Polski is stuffed full of stuffed falcons, Hussar wings
audience of hotel guests. The vaulted interiors of Art come and enough medieval armour and weaponry to start a
decorated with light colours, timber beams and wicker museum. Those looking for a royal feast however, may be
chairs, while visual distractions include a well, local artwork disappointed. Despite the upmarket prices and palatial
and potted shrubbery in every conceivable form. The interiors, the food - mostly game dishes like pheasant, hare,
menu does the rest with a strong line in maritime delights boar and venison carved up with pewter cutlery - doesn’t
and regional Polish cuisine in addition to well-presented always live up to expectations. Gamey indeed, and if you’re
modern Italian dishes.QA-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) a vegetarian, get away quickly.QA-3, Rynek 5, tel. (+48)
71 787 71 02, www.arthotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, 71 372 48 96, www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 -
Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (32-78zł). 6UGBSW 23:00. (30-65zł). T6GBS

CHATKA PRZY JATKACH JADKA

This small, popular Polish eatery, across from the ul. Jatka Faultless modern and traditional Polish cuisine with a
gallery stalls, achieves the trick of appearing like a rustic village Lithuanian influence served inside an ornate, imperial
cottage if you don’t notice the ceiling ductwork. Enhancing backdrop featuring vaulted brick ceilings, timber and starched
the illusion is the genuine Bolesławiec folkware on the tables linen. The concise menu won’t bowl you over, but the class
(begging to leap into someone’s handbag), stout wooden and quality will. Choose from roasted duck with apples, black
tables, timber fittings and a thatched awning over the bar. currant sauce, potato dumplings and fried beetroot, or seize
The menu - conveniently available in Polish, English, German the moment by ordering wild boar. Expect an expansive wine
and Spanish - features all the Polish classics, but take note that list, professional service and a commitment to excellence.
almost everything on it is fried. Despite the average food, it One of the few world class dining options in the city.QA-3,
can be hard to score a table in this veteran chow house, which ul. Rzeźnicza 24/25, tel. (+48) 71 343 64 61, www.jadka.pl.
makes a fine place for a fast, local lunch, or late evening meal Open 13:00 - 22:00. (27-92zł). T6GSW
if you were busy drinking when the dinner bell rang. And they
conveniently accept Euros.QA-3, ul. Odrzańska 7, tel. (+48)
71 342 72 20, www.chatkaprzyjatkach.eu. Open 12:00 - @InYourPocket
23:00. (10-30zł). GBS
36 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
KARCZMA LWOWSKA
Translating to ‘Lviv Tavern’ and dedicated not only to that
formerly Polish city now lost in the wilds of the Ukraine, but
also to that thought-to-be lost Polish ideal of a simple country
lifestyle, this nostalgic restaurant’s immaculately decorated
interior is decked out in rustic, rural artefacts, antiques, old
photos and seems to have a stuffed pheasant on almost every
table. Designed for day-long feasting, the menu of traditional
Galician specialties looks like an outstanding bargain before
you notice that all side dishes are charged separately,
however the result is still a decent value and evidence that
not everything on the market square is a tourist trap.QA-3,
Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 343 98 87, www.lwowska.com.pl.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (30-80zł). T6EXW

KONSPIRA
Recreating the 1980s with newspapers, political cartoons,
posters, and other communist era imagery, Konspira calls itself
a ‘Centre for Historical Education’ illuminating Wrocław’s role
in the Solidarity movement. With some English info it could
do a better job, but as a restaurant it’s absolutely brilliant with
enormous portions of tasty local grub and absurdly cheap prices
seemingly straight from the old days. The killer location includes
a huge garden full of gorgeous trees(!), a historical exhibit (Polish
only, unfortunately) and even an outdoor play area for kids. Make
sure you ask to see the ‘hidden room’ - a clever artefact-laden
recreation of what a Polish apartment might have looked like in
the mid-80s. Completely unique, worth checking out and worth
the bill twice over.QA-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel. (+48) 796 32 66 00,
www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
23:00. (10-30zł). TGBSW

PIEROGARNIA STARY MŁYN

Taking pierogi - a traditional staple of Polish cuisine - and
turning them into a tourist-fleecing cash crop, Pierogarnia
Stary Młyn specialises in baked dumplings, as opposed to
your traditional steamed variety. The menu is a meandering Karczma Lwowska
visual mess, but offers a range of savoury, sweet, meat or
veg fillings, with your choice of sauces on the side. Choose
from overpriced sets of 3, 5 or 9, where adding an additional
individual ‘pierog’ costs an absurdly exact 8.96zł (baked) or
5.46zł (steamed). To their credit, the dumplings are very large
(start with 3) and tasty, but hardly traditional. The textbook
definition of a tourist trap, there are dozens of other places
in Wrocław where you can taste your first pierogi.QA-3,
Rynek 26, tel. (+48) 71 344 14 15, www.pierogarnie.com/
wroclaw. Open 11:03 - 22:57. (13-32zł). TGBSW

PIWNICA ŚWIDNICKA
Seems things have gone downhill a bit since this place was
opened over 700 years ago, making it the first beer cellar in :URFãDZ5\QHN
Europe. Named after the Schweidnitz (Świdnica) beer brewed
in the basement back in those days, today it serves primarily 5H]HUZDFMH5HVHUYDWLRQV
as an effective tourist trap where the labyrinth of historic Town 
Hall vaults lure unwitting visitors into ordering rather average
overpriced traditional food served by uncaring staff. Nonetheless [email protected]
an Old Town landmark, and well worth a look at the very least.
QA-3, Rynek-Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 369 95 10, www.
www.lwowska.com.pl
piwnicaswidnicka.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-75zł). G
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 37
 Restaurants
POD FREDRĄ
POLISH FOOD A perfect introduction to traditional Polish cuisine, from a
perfect location inside Wrocław’s medieval Town Hall, Pod
Fredrą ably covers the spectrum of Polish classics and even
boasts its very own onsite smokehouse. The music, walls,
and meaty menu combine to create the appearance of
an old Polish village and the staff will dutifully serve you
in at least three languages (Polish, German or English). The
extensive country fare is complemented by a large and
international wine list, and you need not worry about your
eyes being too big for your stomach as they’re quite happy
to doggy-bag whatever you’re unable to put away of the
large portions.QA-3, Rynek - Ratusz 1, tel. (+48) 71 341
13 35, www.podfredra.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł).
Placki T6UBXS

Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the QUCHNIA POLSKA

world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the Obviously upmarket when you enter, this place aims to
following to the test: combine innovative international cuisine with classic Polish
ingredients and additions. A cosy interior with warm colours
Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no
should be the law in Poland with those biting winters - this
standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made
place fits the bill perfectly. Attractively restored features of the
using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever
old building, including (almost) flawless coving. It was a first
else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days.
for us, but the dish of another diner in the restaurant looked
If you have second helpings then consider yourself a
so good that we just had to have the same; the chicken with
Pole by default.
mushroom sauce is excellent alongside cooked spinach and
Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite pan fried potatoes. Flawless food for sure. Located on the
dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with main square, with fittingly exceptional views.QA-3, Rynek
beef, onion and rice before being baked and served 20-21, tel. (+48) 71 343 56 17, www.quchniapolska.pl.
with a tomato or mushroom sauce. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (20-60zł). GBSW

Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish RESTAURACJA MONOPOL

delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be Known under communism as the most exclusive restaurant
served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. in Wrocław, queues would stretch outside the revolving
Go caveman. doors as the staff shooed away anyone not wearing a tie,
and menus and tableware frequently disappeared into the
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an pockets of souvenir hoarders banking on the Monopol’s
enormous variety, made from everything from turkey rep as a culinary masterpiece. With the historic building
to bison. renovated and under the savvy stewardship of Likus, today
Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with that excellence is back in place with master chefs preparing
potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and a wide range of traditional Polish dishes, and an inspired
cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will breakfast smorgasbord starting each day. A modern
find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate classic, just leave the cutlery when you go.QA-4, ul.
or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37
served almost everywhere. 80, www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Open 06:30 -
10:00, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:00.
Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very (65-75zł). UGW
similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash
on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also
a tried and true hangover cure. SPANISH
TAVERNA ESPAÑOLA
Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz Six types of paella, a good range of tapas and tortillas, fish
and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be in abundance, a superb veggie selection and a coveted
served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or location (including terrific Rynek-side seating in season)
with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it all ensure that this Spanish eatery stays stoked with happy
‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye patrons. Inside you will find a vaulted room full of gloomy
soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg corners and a scary mannequin dressed like a matador.
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl. QA-3, Rynek 53/55, tel. (+48) 71 344 65 62. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (23-50zł). TGBS
38 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
UKRAINIAN
HORTYCA
With the historical and cultural connection that post-war
Wrocław shares with Ukraine, you would expect Ukrainian
food to be more prevalent locally, but we’ll happily settle
for Hortyca. With a radio playing from behind the bar and
a simple menu of traditional dishes, this casual, cheap and Polish Cuisine
tiny restaurant offers a surprisingly authentic experience of
Ukrainian dining, enhanced by the folksy decor, flatware,
and dress of the plump-faced waitress. If you’re not well-
versed in Ukrainian food, it’s basically what you might have
surmised: a blend of Polish and Russian cuisine; as such, the
short menu is populated with dumplings, blinis and borscht.
Our Plov - a rice dish with meat and ‘traditional seasonings’
- was delicious, and we capped it off by toasting PL’s eastern
neighbours with a shot of Nemiroff.QB-2, ul. Więzienna
18/1, tel. (+48) 71 318 75 66, www.hortyca.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (10-20zł). T6GBSW

KNAJPA KRES
‘Kres’refers to the former eastern provinces of PL lost after WWII
(today in Lithuania, Belarus and Ukraine), though they seem
to be using the term more liberally here, with Czech beers,
Georgian wine, although the food is decidedly Ukrainian
with the house specialty being Chicken Kiev. The menu may
Rynek 20/21
pose a challenge for those unfamiliar with obscure Eastern tel. 71 343 56 17
dishes, but the staff will help you figure out that most of the www.quchniapolska.pl
food is fairly familiar. Though primarily a cheap restaurant,
the atmosphere here is that of an alternative bar/cafe with
a young crowd and more hipster hallmarks (unfinished
floors, plywood bar, neon sign) than interwar nostalgia. With
frequent events and film screenings, Kres wants to be a bit of
everything, but it’s surprisingly friendly for a place that exudes
cool.QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 884 15 10
45. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 -
21:00. (10-25zł). 6EGBSW

VEGETARIAN
NEW
AHIMSA RESTAURANT & CLUB
Okay, first things first: these people really do know their
spices, and it’s hard to believe that someone can inject
this much flavour into lowly tofu. You won’t leave hungry,
either; the all-vegan menu offers huge portions of veggie
sizzlers, masala dosa, stir-fry vegetables in peanut sauce,
thali and sushi of the day, falafel, and veggie burgers. While
the delicious smell might just be the deciding factor when
choosing to dine here, the warm minimalist ambience
entices to sit a while longer.QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 23,
tel. (+48) 71 344 55 22, www.ahimsa.com.pl. Open 11:00
- 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 -
21:00. Closed Mon. (14-27zł). T6GBSW

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 Restaurants
BASZTA
MILK BARS Centuries ago (eight of them to be exact), this gloomy
brick tower was part of the city’s medieval defensive
A lot has changed since fortifications, and today it houses one of the most
communism got knee- unique alternative hang-outs in town. Offering an
capped and Poland outstanding menu of vegan and vegetarian food,
joined the EU. While choice from outrageously cheap curries, pad thai,
many of the old ways of tempeh and tofu satay, ramen and other Pan-Asian
the old days have dis- delights, plus a range of vegan and gluten-free
appeared or become desserts. Baszta also doubles as a gallery for surreal
slightly disneyfied in graphics over its three ancient storeys, and achieves
today’s tourist-laden a low-key, romantic, bohemian vibe perfect for bean
Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-Western: the bag conversation or burying your nose in a book.
Polish milk bar, or bar mleczny. These steamy caf- Getting there is an adventure, and you’ll surely make
eterias serving proletariat cuisine to an endless queue an impression on anyone you navigate through the
of tramps, pensioners and students provide a grim dark courtyard behind Hala Targowa to Baszta’s door
glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and have all the at- (most easily achieved from ul. Piaskowa). Seek it out.
mosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas station rest- QC-3, ul. Kraińskiego 14, tel. (+48) 603 51 08 35,
room. We love them. For the cost of a few coins you can www.baszta.wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri
eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00.
well-fed one. Put the Racławice Panorama on hold, a Closed Mon. T6 G BSW
visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country. MACHINA ORGANIKA
Beyond simply vegetarian, this exciting organic vegan
As restaurants were nationalised across the country by eatery/cafe across from Pasaż Niepolda offers very
PL’s communist authorities after WWII, milk bars appeared creative cuisine and a different menu every day. When
in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based meals to we dropped in it was ‘avo-mango-carrot soup with
the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently); in tomatoes, thyme and sunflower seeds’ (how can you
fact meals at the local milk bar were often included in resist giving that a try?). In addition to the original vegan
a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage entrees, salads and desserts, the drinks list goes beyond
cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered great coffee and local beers to include a range of enticing
omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods creations like avocado cocoa with almond milk, mango
like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism lassi and watermelon tonic. Set over three levels (the
that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to downstairs of which is decidedly more loungy), Machina
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning you’ll Organika also features a lovely interior with timber
notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes ceilings, a long L-shaped bar, wire light fixtures, plenty of
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic potted plants and colourful tiles work that almost gives it
cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken a bit of a hacienda feel. Recommended.QA-3, ul. Ruska
by ashen-faced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), 19, tel. (+48) 733 53 72 10. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00
and the food is as inspired as ever - the only difference - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-20zł).
being that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. T6UGSW
With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny
went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums NAJADACZE.PL
were saved and continue to be kept open through state Wrocław now has enough alternative eating options -
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off most of them excellent - to send tourists on a veritable
as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. vegetarian food crawl. This small, likeable and exclusively
vegan eatery is certainly worth seeking out as well,
JACEK I AGATKA offering a concise menu of Arabic and Indian cuisine
QB-3, Pl. Nowy Targ 27, tel. (+48) 71 344 24 55. that’s also conveniently available in English. The falafel
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. burgers (13zł) are a big hit, while other highlights include
(3-10zł). NG the humus, tofu cheesecake, tofu dumplings, kofta and
more. There’s a range of fair trade coffees, teas, sodas
MIŚ and even a few choice beers, the food comes out of
No doubt named after the classic Polish comedy film the kitchen fast, and costs almost nothing. Eat well and
which caricatured milk bars during the communist era. spend little - that’s what it’s all about no matter what
QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 48, tel. (+48) 71 343 49 63. Open your diet.QB-2/3, ul. Nożownicza 40, tel. (+48) 71 344
07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (5-14zł). 55 11, www.najadacze.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00
NG - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (6-20zł).
6VGBSW
40 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
NALANDA
Hit up this quiet cafe and bookstore to eat healthy veggie,
vegan and gluten-free food, and pick up all the alternative
lifestyle info you could possibly need while in town. The
kitchen follows the principles of the five transformations
and portions are big, so if that doesn’t match your
appetite ask them for a half-portion. The books are on
every new age-y subject you can imagine from astrology
to numerology, tarot-reading to Eastern Philosophy, and
though not many are in English, you’ll still find a rather
international crowd of academics, intellectuals and
activists coming here to work, meet and eat well while
indie rock darlings like Bon Iver and Grizzly Bear play in the
background. The organic interior features a mezzanine,
random furnishings and fibre art and hosts regular events
of everything from Amnesty International get-togethers
to belly dancing and sitar concerts.QA-5, Pl. Kościuszki
12, tel. (+48) 508 33 00 79, www.nalanda.com.pl. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (13-20zł). T6U
NGBSW

VEGA
This veteran establishment earns honours for being the
the first in the country to commit to going all vegetarian
when it opened way back in 1987. Now, following a
needed renovation, Vega has upped its own ‘anti-’ by
going 100% vegan. Set over two floors right on the
market square, the modern makeover has done wonders
for the interior and the food is good as ever, especially
the amazing cakes, desserts and vegan ice cream. Enjoy
daily specials, meatless cutlets and Eastern-inspired
dishes, with plenty for diabetics, those going gluten-free
and even raw foodies. Full of flyers and activist info, this
place is a veritable counter-culture centre, and probably
the cheapest, most alternative place you can eat on the
market square of any major city in Poland. Way to go,
Wrocław.QB-3, ul. Sukiennice 1/2, tel. (+48) 71 344 39
34, www.barvega.wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Fri
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (7-
25zł). T6GBSW

ZŁE MIĘSO (EVIL MEAT)

After some rather nomadic beginnings, Evil Meat (bless
its tofu heart) has dropped a squat deep in a courtyard
off of ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich and looks inclined to stay.
Featuring plenty of home-made tattoos, dreadlocks, DIY
decor (milk crate light fixtures, mural art) and always a
dog or too, this place has remained an underground
institution, and is one of the city’s best vegetarian
eateries. Despite being a gathering place for the Great
Unwashed, enticing smells hit you as soon as you step
inside; choose from daily specials, curries, casseroles,
veggie cutlets, falafel, pizza, tofu and two things we’ve
never seen before in PL - seitan and tempeh(!). Hard to
find, and even harder to believe how good it is, look for
the green neon sign and go veg out.QA-3, ul. Ofiar
Oświęcimskich 19, tel. (+48) 667 94 78 04, www.
zlemieso.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00.
(15-23zł). T6NGBS
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 41
 Cafés

How
H ow ab
about so
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me aro
aroma
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maTy
maTy??

AMORINIO BEMA CAFE

This colourful Italian cafe offers enough sundaes, Probably the nicest cafe north of the Odra, we aren’t the only
shakes and other sweet treats to make all the teeth of ones gushing about Bema Cafe, which was nominated for the
a shark fall out in ecstasy. Seriously, the sheer variety ‘Ale Lokale 2013’ award. A rather industrial interior design of
of desserts available here is awe-inspiring and makes coarse concrete and bare bulbs is offset by large display cases
deciding a challenging conundrum (don’t worry, there’s and plenty of natural light, and the terrace boasts perhaps
no incorrect choice). The modern design is eclectic, the only parasols in town devoid of corporate emblems.
but smart, with exposed bricks, wallpaper disguised as Open early for breakfast (served all day!) and offering plenty
tile mosaic, and a subtle angel theme that gets less so of yummy sweets and lunch eats, absolutely delicious fresh
when applied to the cute teenage girls in vintage red juices and amazing coffee drinks prepared with a variety of
dresses working here, while the clientele is largely their alternative brewing techniques, we find ourselves using this
peers and grandmothers. A great place to take the kids, hip, neighbourhood cafe so often as an office, that it’s actually
if you’ve overdone the sweets there are also a range starting to feel more like...well, home. Heartily recommended.
of savoury soups, quiches and crepes.QB-3, ul. Wita QC-1, ul. Drobnera 38, tel. (+48) 71 322 02 12. Open 08:00
Stwosza 1-2, tel. (+48) 71 346 29 44, www.amorinio. - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 6UGBSW
pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. TG
BSW BUŁKA Z MASŁEM
This fantastic venue succeeds at being a casual restaurant,
NEW trendy cafe and after-hours hangout all at the same time, thus
AROMATY making it a trick for us to categorise, but a joy to drop by any
Part cafe, part china shop; stopping here for a cup of time of day. In addition to daily specials, the simple, laminated
tea will feel like visiting your fashionable granny. With a menu offers affordable eats: all day breakfast, burgers and club
roomful of mismatched furniture and warm splashes of sandwiches, plus a concise list of cocktails and shakes served
color on the walls, ARomaTy (“Aromas”) is a cozy, tucked- in classic milk and jam jars. While the moody upstairs and
away place where everything is on sale, just name your soft-lit downstairs are both cool and casual, this venue is really
price. Great space to organize events (up to 25 people) rooted in its outstanding, ivy-covered garden. Achieving that
just check their FB before you drop by as their opening rare feat of mass appeal and hipster approval, Bułka z Masłem
hours are subject to change.QPl. Stanisława Staszica makes the shortlist of must-visit Wroc venues whether you
12 (Nadodrze), tel. (+48) 501 62 65 85, www.aromaty. want a coffee, beer or bite to eat.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 8A,
wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. tel. (+48) 503 47 62 41. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
6GSW 24:00. 6GBSW
42 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Cafés
CAFE BORÓWKA
Standing like a welcome centre at the frontier of
the Old Town, this amiable cafe dispenses coffee to
go, cookies, cakes and ice cream sundaes along the
riverfront promenade where the city’s medieval walls
once stood, and features a fabulous rooftop terrace
when the weather is inviting. American in attitude,
Borówka roasts its own beans, brews its own organic
fair trade joe, and makes an ideal pit stop en route COFFEE ICE CREAM CAKES
to the bustle of the Rynek.QA-4, ul. Świdnicka 38a,
tel. (+48) 71 343 12 25, www.cafeborowka.pl. Open
07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. T 6 G B
SW

CHARLOTTE CHLEB I WINO

Bucking the city’s craft beer obsession, Charlotte is focussed
on fresh baked bread, pastries, French classics like Croque
Madame and creme brulee, and gourmet cheese and meat
platters - all accompanied by great coffee or wine (no
beer!). As such, it’s great for breakfast, whether in the sunny
patio or spacious, stylish interior. The hipster quotient of
the clients here is off the charts, and only outmatched by PANCAKES TARTS SOUPS
amorinio - ice cream
the staff, who look like they’re posing for a Paris-themed
street fashion shoot while you wait for your order, or even
a place to sit. It took Kraków’s Charlotte some time to get & grand cafe
their act together, and we assume they’ll get over their
growing pains here as well, but by the looks of it, Charlotte XO:LWD6WZRV]D:URFãDZ
is an instant success.QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż www.amorinio.pl
Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 608 64 69 66, www.bistrocharlotte.
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 -
01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. T6UGBSW and has become a favourite place for puffers as it
represents the last place on the market square where
COCOFLI you can smoke since the ban. Now they’ve also got a
The name is a strained acronym for coexistence, little something going on in the kitchen with lunches
cooperation, friendship, love and identity, but we would served Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 (21zł). Shame that the music
have gone with something along the lines of ‘cobobaga’ sometimes lets the show down, or we would spend most
(coffee, books, bar and gallery) to better get at the of our time there.QA-3, Rynek 56/57, tel. (+48) 71 341
many facets of this friendly establishment. Culture should 80 13, www.kawiarnialiteratka.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
probably be in there somewhere as well, since this place 6BXW
has become a bit of a meeting place for it. Creating an
antiquated intellectual aesthetic thanks to a mish-mash VINYL CAFE
of furnishings including a wall-length bookshelf, old This groovy little cafe is an obvious labour of love, and
telephone switchboard, and unique decorative art with old school audiophiles will literally feel right at home
portraits of luminairies from Wrocław’s Jewish past, Cocofli’s with the living room arrangement around the hi-fi
selection of comics and children’s books will make you wish record player. Full of cosy armchairs, crates of vinyl LPs
you spoke Polish. Here it’s possible to get your coffee with and shelves of books, come in, pick out a 45, curl up
rice, soy or almond milk, or enjoy a glass of wine or a local with a coffee or beer and a book and you’ve got yourself
microbrew.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 756 99 the perfect afternoon. The sound system is state-of-
90. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. GBW the-art, their extensive record collection ranges from
Dizzy Gillespie to Devendra Banhart, and bonus points
KAWIARNIA LITERATKA for the policy of making sure a side plays all the way to
A splendid cafe/bar on the main square, patrons can be the end before it gets changed. The coffee comes in big
seen and seem book-smart under the outside awning in mugs, sweets are on hand, there’s a strong selection of
good weather, or retreat into the two-floor interior filled Czech beers, wine and cider, and you can also buy and
with framed portraits of literary luminaries and ceiling trade records here. A second home to many.QB-3, ul.
to floor shelves straining under the weight of Polish Kotlarska 35-36/1a, tel. (+48) 508 26 02 88. Open
hardbacks. Decorated with dark wood furnishings, red 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00,
drapes, chandeliers and an illuminated globe, Literatka’s (Opening hours are subject to change so check their
artsy elegance outclasses most market square options, FB page). T6UGBSW
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 43
 Nightlife

Grabb yourrself
Gra self a cr
crafty brew or two and divee into Wr
Wrocl
oclove
ove’ss heaadyy Nig
Nighhtlife.

Wroclaw bars are flexible - no matter what the official CRAFT BEERS
closing times are, most will stay open until the last Microbrews are all the rage in Wrocław these days, so
customer has crawled out. The lion’s share are concentrated there’s no excuse for drinking bad beer. Discover the
around the market square, but for more alternative depths of Polish beer culture in Kontynuacja, Marynka,
drinking destinations also check out the divey tippler’s Szynkarnia and Pod Latarniami.
strip below the ul. Bogusławskiego train tressle (F-5),
and destinations west of the market square, namely the hip STUDENTS
cafe/bars of Pasaż Pokoyhof (A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4) As beer prices go up, cheap shot bars (p.48) are appearing
and ul. Włodkowica (E-4), and the hedonistic courtyards all over, sustained by Wrocław’s student population. Wicar’s
off ul. Ruska, including Pasaż Niepolda (E-4, ul. Ruska has a definite frat party appeal while Szajba and Manana
51). Recently, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich (A-3) has also (Clubs) are the best locales for spontaneous booty-shaking.
emerged a one of the city’s most happening alternative
streets. For clubbing, the main hedonist hangouts are ul. LADS
Św. Mikołaja (A-3) and the famous Pasaż Niepolda (E- Winners is the civilised choice for football, food and beer,
4), where the parties last until morning even if you don’t. but you can do that at home. Instead, make friends over Pro
Expect cover charges of anywhere from 5-20zł at the door Evo in Padbar, challenge the locals to foosball in Wicar’s,
on weekends, and don’t expect to find toilet paper in any of and don’t miss trying one of the Polish Snacks & Shots
the bathrooms after 22:00. (p.48) spots in town like Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa.

Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so visit COUPLES

our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com (of which Show off by starting the night with a fancy drink in Papa
there’s also a mobile version) - to read reviews of almost Bar or the Monopol’s Sky Bar, or enjoy a classy jazz concert
every drinking locale in town, and leave us your comments at Vertigo (Live Music, p.50). Continue the conversation by
about all of those which you’ve visited. Read on for some candlelight in Mleczarnia, or take a turn on the dance-
recommendations to start you on the path to drunken floor in Nietota.
delinquency. Na zdrowie, and happy hangover.
ALTERNATIVE
COCKTAILS Regular presentations on how to be a Polish hipster are
Shake it up in Wrocław stalwarts Papa Bar and Pod given in Szklarnia and Do Jutra; Nietota (Clubs) has a
Papugami, while Grey, Domówka and PRIV (Clubs) are darker side, Neon Side illuminates the city’s edgy urbanity,
currently the most exclusive catwalks for celebrity spotting and Art Cafe Kalambur (Clubs) is the heights of opiatic art
and being seen. nouveau decadence.
44 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky
ul. Rzeznicza 28-31
G No smoking N Credit cards not accepted 50-130 Wroclaw
Openin
n g in se
e ptember 2015!
6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled [email protected]
X Smoking room available
www.Barmax.pl
E Live music
www.domwhisky.pl
B Outside seating W Wi-fi connection
t a il s
f r u it c o c k
L e g e n d a r y sh and exxotic fruits
m ad e w it h f re
BARS & PUBS
COCTAIL BAR MAX & DOM WHISKY
Building off their success on the beaches of Sopot, Cocktail
Bar Max now aims to raise the standard of mixed drinks in
Wrocław when they open this new location in September.
Known for their top shelf liquors, expansive range of
colourful cocktails laden with fruit, and the skill with which
their staff shakes them up, we’ll be heading here this fall to
see if the results live up to the reputation preceding them.
QF-4, ul. Rzeźnicza 28-31, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00
- 05:00. UBXW

DO JUTRA
election
st whisky s
Pasaż Pokoyhof has exploded with new bars, and Do Jutra
The Bigges
in Poland
is definitely the best of them. With a long bar and low
lighting courtesy of dangling retro lightbulbs and bits
of neon, the interior has a creased, unpolished, sawdust
saloon appeal, while pallet-chic patio furniture extend
this divey drink tank outside. Everything a Polish hipster
could ever want is available here, including craft beer on
draught and in bottles, creative cocktails, bearded barmen,
and a solid, affordable menu of eats, plus daily specials
and a separate late-night menu. Skip the neighbours and
park your pony here.QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4 (Pasaż
Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 883 50 21 02, www.dojutra.com.
Open 15:00 - 01:00, Thu 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 -
05:00. GBSW

KONTYNUACJA
Wrocław might be the best beer city in PL, and this is its best
craft beer house. With 26 beers from PL and abroad on draught
(including two hand-pumps), the ales are inscrutable, though
the atmosphere isn’t always there. Here you won’t find the
loud din of a beer hall, but low music and a discerning, overly
civilised crowd of connoisseurs. What exactly it’s missing,
we’re not sure, but the modern, minimal decor with a few
street art touches is apparently neither alternative nor cosy
enough to create the buzz you’d expect from the bar with the
best brews in town. Still, if you want to find praise for Polish
beer - this is the place.QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 17,
tel. (+48) 792 40 00 84. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 16:00 - Kazimierza Wielkiego 50A
02:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. UGBW Wrocław
Tel.: +48 71 715 60 60
www.setkabar.com
vine.co/inyourpocket / setkabar Bar Polski Ludowej

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 45

 Nightlife
this is a refined place for beer lovers to relax without the
snobbery you might associate with connoisseur culture.
Worth seeking out.QA-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 39,
tel. (+48) 504 31 49 01. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. GBW

MLECZARNIA
We’ve been mainstays at this dusky, back-street, candlelit
pub since our first days in town. Hidden in an enchanting
courtyard with the White Stork Synagogue and a glorious
oak tree, the summer beer garden is fantastic, while the
sepia interior of wobbly furnishings and framed sketches
captures an ethereal, nostalgic atmosphere better than
anywhere else in Wroc’s former Jewish district. A bohemian
mix of local academics, hipsters and hostelers drink
through the debate topics of the day while an excellent
mix of ethnic and indie music (always played at just the
right level) drifts through the air. Honestly, Mleczarnia is the
kind of place we could live in, and some regulars appear to
actually do so. With a hostel upstairs, you can too.QE-4,
ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 788 24 48, www.mle.pl.
Open 08:00 - 04:00. BXW

NEON SIDE CLUB & GALLERY

This passageway between ul. Ruska and ul. Antoniego is
now not only a living gallery for street art, but also salvaged
neon art from the Soviet era. Not only is the interior of this
alternative venue densely laden with neons (in various
states of condition and working order), but the facade is also
hung with historic neon signs, thus making the entrance
KRVN rather hard to miss. Part bar/club and part museum/
Shorthand for ‘Karavan’ (obviously), this odd and amiable gallery, inside Polish speakers will find some info about
bar/bistro combines a smart post-modern aesthetic with the history of each sign alongside where it shines down on
a street art edge and deliberate traces of urban decay: the retro furnishings of this hipster clubhouse with choice
think steel doors and subtle neon, plus strange Sharpie beers, weekend DJs, and a general counter-culture vibe.
scribbles on unfinished walls. In the evenings it’s a total Absolutely worth seeing, even if just for a look around in
hipster hangout full of fanny packs, plug earrings, ironic the evening.QE-4, ul. Ruska 46C, tel. (+48) 604 26 12 20.
moustaches and fast electronic music. The drinks menu Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. UGBW
is unique, inventive and nothing short of excellent, with
a long list of original cocktails and hot concoctions for NIEBO CAFE
weathering the long Polish winter. By day natural light As long as you keep drinking, Niebo will stay open, and
filters through the street-side windows and KRVN is more this has become an after-hours cult classic packed with
of a bistro with a great menu of hot sandwiches, Polish students obliterating scholarships well after dawn; when
pancakes, burgers, pasta and salads (served until 22:00, Fri- one drops off there’s three more to replace them. A long,
Sat 23:00). An ideal place to pretend you’re not a tourist, this dog-eared, scarlet and blue bar full of random art photos
is essentially the perfect Wrocław hangout.QE-4, ul. Św. and oddities, Niebo is the start and finish point for many
Antoniego 40/1A, tel. (+48) 881 63 04 95, www.krvn.pl. neighbourhood pub crawls, so you’ll have to step over a
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GBSW few casualties on your way to the dance-floor, pumping
your fist to the classic rock and 90s anthems.QE-4, ul.
MARYNKA PIWO I APERITIVO Ruska 51b (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 342 98 67.
Marynka essentially takes the idea and atmosphere of a Open 13:00 - 05:00, Mon 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 -
wine and tapas bar and applies it to choice ales. Here you 08:00. UBXW
can select from upwards of 75 beers from all over the world,
including 8 regularly changing taps, while snacking on OLD HAVANA CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE
tasty appetisers (which come free with your beer between For those who enjoy ‘the finer things in life’ - whiskey and
18:30 and 21:00!), and they’ve now added delicious wood- cigars, of course (and probably a third thing we must be
fired pizza to their bag of tricks thanks to a cooperation forgetting) - Old Havana offers a haven where good ole boys
with Happy Little Food Truck parked out back. Hidden in an can sit back, swirl some cognac in a glass, grip a cigar in their
obscure courtyard behind Graciarnia near the Royal Palace, grin and enjoy some common discourse. This small shop
46 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
and lounge with a walk-in humidor offers hundreds of rolled
Cubans, cutters, ashtrays and other accessories, plus a wide
selection of whiskies, cognacs, port and rum - all of which
you can enjoy on the premises, or take with you. The staff
are very knowledgeable and eager to have your company
in one of their leather armchairs.QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24,
tel. (+48) 790 80 22 81. Open 10:00 - 22:00. XW

PADBAR
With a beer in one hand and a joystick in the other, Padbar
is a concept club for gamers (not gay men, sorry for the
confusion). The investment here obviously went into
equipment, not decor, which consists of black sofas, bean
bags, plywood tables...and dozens of flatscreen TVs where
you can play seemingly every video game, for every gaming
system, ever created. But Padbar isn’t limited to video games
- there are plenty of board games as well, plus the obligatory
Warhammer and Magic: The Gathering crowds. With stencil
art of Rambo and Einstein holding game consoles, and a
cocktail menu with names like ‘Princess Zelda’ and ‘Crash
Bandicoot’, this place is impressively thought out, wildly
popular and loud with laughter. Perfect for making new
friends, getting nostalgic and having a blast, few places are
as fun and friendly as Padbar. Game on.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 1, tel. (+48) 883 75 17 14, www.padbar.pl.
Open 18:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. UGW

PAPA BAR
One of Wrocław’s most stylish and chic bars, how much you
favour Papa Bar really depends how much you fancy yourself
a fit with the jet set. Filled with foreign and local hotshots
in collars and cufflinks beside blonde beauties and botox
cougars drinking cocktails and single malt whiskeys around
an endless rectangular bar, grand colonnades support the
ceiling while red carpet shots of smiling Hollywood hunks
and starlets dress the walls. The space is enormous and has
been entirely given over to smokers, with the exception of
a small corner. Though the tedious house music is hardly
original, Papa Bar still provides many of the comforts other
places lack - including competent mixologists, sports
on the flatscreen and a menu of great eats served late.
Recommended.QA-3, ul. Rzeźnicza 32/33, tel. (+48) 71
341 04 85, www.papabar.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00
- 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. UBXW

POD LATARNIAMI
A warm, elegant, yet perfectly casual pub with a retro
turn-of-the-century interior full of mirrors, marble and fine
woodwork, including a long bar fitted with lanterns. In
addition to great atmosphere, there’s are 8 craft beers on
draught, rows of bottled ales and whiskies, and a mercifully
short menu of local specialties and grilled meats (including
a very good breaded pork chop), which are not only
tasty, but represent a great value. One of the few places
in Wrocław to earn mass approval from high-collared
businessmen, British tourists, wind-creased geasers and
first-dating students. We like it too.QA-3, ul. Ruska 3/4,
tel. (+48) 71 344 03 24. Open 10:30 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
10:30 - 04:00. UGBW
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 47
 Nightlife
POD PAPUGAMI
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS Packed with wasp-waisted blondes Pod Papugami still
rates as one of the top venues in town for terrific food,
AMBASADA smart drinks and live music. Squeeze among the local
Everything here costs a slim 5zł coin, making Ambasada stars to knock down complicated cocktails amid film reels,
so packed at night that you might not even get a projectors and vintage movie memorabilia. Champagne-
glimpse of the slightly upscale interior covered in old voiced chanteuses take the stage most nights, and the
travel agency adverts and transatlantic posters. High performances are usually very good indeed.QA-3,
ceilings, soft lighting and a long bar, this embassy draws ul. Sukiennice 9a, tel. (+48) 71 343 92 75, www.
a slightly older crowd and the high volume makes podpapugami.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
new acquaintances that much more attainable.QA-3, 12:00 - 01:00. EGW
ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 337 38 18. Open
24hrs. UGBW SZAJBA
Hidden one courtyard east of Mleczarnia, this large,
PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA versatile high-ceilinged club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s
Franchising its way across PL, this place has the formula large demographic of hipsters who create happenings. Old
down and its presence on both the market square and 50s and 60s radios with glowing gummy bear lamps atop
now in Pasaż Niepolda make it one of the most popular them line the walls above old framed advertisements and
bars of its creed. Essentially your cookie-cutter communist prints by local artists. The furnishings, as you can guess,
nostalgia snack bar, Pijalnia’s walls are papered in old news are more of the same attic antiques you find in many such
clippings with a few propaganda posters and photos places, with candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty
of the pointless queues prolific during the period this of room for large groups. Seasonal outdoor seating, an
place attempts to evoke. Drinks for 4zł and food for 8zł, eclectic alternative playlist, extensive exotic drink list and
the atmosphere is lively and if you’re feeling bold you can free wifi are just a few more of the reasons Szajba is a great
order the ‘niespodzianka’ (surprise).QB-3, Rynek 13/14, place to pass time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying
tel. (+48) 533 17 14 10. Open 24 hrs. UGBW themselves, as our coffee came with a near-complete tic-
tac-toe board drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the
SETKA - BAR POLSKI LUDOWEJ winning stroke. A great find.QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4
For those who miss the Communist system in Poland (Pasaż Pokoyhof), tel. (+48) 660 40 42 70, www.szajba.
and those who simply missed it altogether, Setka (the wroclaw.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
Polish name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) recreates UGBW
the spartan simplicity of a Communist bar or diner.
However, instead of just a dreary room of empty shelves, SZKLARNIA
grey walls, and unsmiling patrons, you’ll find a veritable Ofiar Oświęcimskich Street has exploded with hip new
homage to all things Communist. The time-warp motif venues to become one of Wrocław’s most exciting
covers most of the 20-foot high walls as well as the bar, streets - and this may be its most popular hangout at
tables and decorations, which include tiny iconic fiats the moment. Bearing all the hallmarks of hipster paradise
(Maluch) for you to dine in inside and out. Even the - pricey craft beers, cool cocktails, groovy music, DIY
menu is a typically large, imposing and inflexible tribute design and good eats - they’ve basically taken all the
to Communists days although the mouthwatering tangy best aspects of their neighbours and combined them
ribs are worth the trip alone. There’s more ambience here. There’s even a club in the basement on weekends.
than there should be for a real historical re-enactment, Dubbed ‘Greenhouse’ (as Szklarnia translates in English)
but the low prices and completely casual dress do an old thanks to a glass ceiling, this large space features a long
Communist watering hole justice.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza wrap-around bar, lots of natural light, and plenty of
Wielkiego 50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar. plywood and pallets (naturally). A delight by day, things
com. Open 10:00 - 06:00. UGW get crowded in the evening when it basically turns into
a urban lifestyle blog.QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich
19, tel. (+48) 503 56 56 71. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 05:00. GBW

SZYNKARNIA
Another in a recent flurry of craft beer houses in Wrocław,
Szynkarnia is a hog of a different colour, however. Doing
unique double-duty as an ale house and deli counter
stocked with fine meats and cheeses, this place is
more of a low-key neighbourhood hangout than party
headquarters, despite a location bookending Pasaż
Photo by Karol Grzenia Niepolda. In addition to the 14 craft brews on draught,
try the tasty ‘podpłomyki’ - a healthy wrap made on their
48 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
own bread and filled with the local deli fixings of your
choice - delicious! The white-washed timber-fitted space PASAŻ NIEPOLDA
features a cosy antresol and basement as well, and the
breakfast and lunch specials warrant return visits to this
completely original and relaxed establishment at all times
of day.QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 733 80 81
34, www.szynkarnia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
UGBW

THE WINNERS PUB

As far as sports bars go, this is the best in Wrocław. A nice
balance is struck between the intimate, modern interior
of creme-coloured booths, all with a good view of one
of the 10 flatscreens (they also have a projector), and the
antiquated black and white sports photo wallpaper and
outdated athletic equipment on the walls. There’s also
a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of modern
American food, with the specialty being steaks fried on a This raucous courtyard (or ‘passageway’) five minutes
hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes from from the market square is one of Wrocław’s most
young ladies who are clearly runway models on their off popular and legendary clubbing destinations. Packed
days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack with over a dozen bars and clubs inside a space of
of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well less then 50 metres, you almost expect it to be fair
as a share of Wrocław’s best beer garden in front of the game to take your drink with you as you go door to
White Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative, door exploring each one (it’s not). While the venues
we’d say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily. here change often, some mainstays like Niebo and
QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 519 54 18 94, www. Bezsenność have been highlights of the city’s drinking
thewinnerspub.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. BXW scene for what seems like forever.

WICAR’S PUB Once a somewhat offbeat alternative to drinking

Located underground in the catacombs of Partisan Hill, on the market square, in recent years this historic
this is one of the most unique venues in Wrocław, not only passageway has been renovated and gone full
for its singular location, but the plethora of pursuits they mainstream with banners that welcome tourists and
offer in addition to pizza and 70 types of beer (as if you young girls who seem to have forgotten to finish
need more). A wonderland for lads (and ladies too), Wicar’s dressing handing out leaflets. An obvious effort to
features 6 flatscreen TVs streaming matches, 7 free foosball keep some order and crack down on outside drinks
tables and 2 free electronic dart boards. On top of that they is also now being made; to this end gates have been
host concerts and karaoke nights, have an outdoor grill in installed at both ends, where you can expect guards
warm weather, and there was a large group poker game to tell you to lose that vodka bottle, and even frisk
going on when we dropped in. Foosball tournaments take your purse for whatever else you’ve got squirrelled
place on Sundays and workshops for honing your skills are away. As a result, the neighbouring space in front of
on Wednesday. Get your game on.QB-4, ul. Piotra Skargi the bank at the corner of ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego and
18A, tel. (+48) 887 56 66 65, www.wicars-pub.pl. Open ul. Ruska (A-3) has become a total free-for-all of pre-
16:00 - 01:00, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. entry binge drinking.
GBW
If you favour a quiet drink in sophisticated
WIĘZIENNA PUB surroundings, you’ll want to stay as far away from this
During this space’s brief stint as a children’s cafe (in a hedonist haven as possible; Pasaż Niepolda parties all
medieval prison? really?) this cult bar with its fantastic night, sustaining an unprecedented level of energy,
beer garden (shared with Motyla Noga) was sorely missed. noise and sloppiness all the way through to morning.
Honestly, you simply can’t ask for better atmosphere than It’s a spectacle that has to be witnessed, though
the courtyard of a 14th century prison, but the interior is may not be to everyone’s taste, particularly since the
cosy and perfect for catching up with good company quality of bars here has declined of late. Officially
if you can get a table. Unique in that half of the taps are addressed at ul. Ruska 51 (E-4), Pasaż Niepolda is
devoted to wine and cider, you’ll also find some choice just west of the centre in a courtyard connecting
bottled beers, and the barstaff are friendly and competent. Ruska and Św. Antoniego Streets. To find it make
Welcome back, old buddy.QB-2, ul. Więzienna 6, tel. your first left off Ruska after crossing ul. Kazimierza
(+48) 693 56 26 20. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 Wielkiego (A-3).
- 02:00. GBW
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 49
 Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
ART CAFE KALAMBUR
All venues that can claim to offer live music are marked An artsy bohemian headquarters by day, this tiny
with a saxophone icon E, but in addition to those Seccessionist space becomes one of the sloppiest, most
below, Stary Klasztor (p.32), Pod Papugami (p.48) and unhinged student clubs in Wrocław on weekends, with
Nietota (p.51) are particularly worthy of investigation. the party going on until dawn o’clock. As drunken revellers
To find out what specific concerts are happening when bump into the DJ booth, the masses writhe to skipping
you’re in town, check our Events section (p.17). recordings of everything from classic MJ to the Doors to
ETER CLUB Goran Bregovic. So chock-a-block with shimmying students
If you’re sick of brick cellars, head to this thoroughly and hipsters that dancers obstruct the door, so start testing
modern marvel for a lesson in grand dance-club your moves on the approach ‘cause you’re going right into
design. One of the city’s top venues, Eter looks the part the frying pan, friend.QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza 29a, tel. (+48) 71
with dazzling professional lighting and an incredible 343 92 68, www.kalambur.org. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
sound system - put to good use while hosting some of Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UNXW
Wrocław’s best concerts and events. Spread over two
underground levels with four(!) bars, chill out on the BEZSENNOŚĆ (INSOMNIA)
splendid upstairs mezzanine overlooking the stage/ Pasaż Niepolda’s longest tenured club and arguably still
dance-floor sofas before heading down into dance- its best. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles gather amid a
floor carnage with an unpretentious crowd determined decadent background of comfy sofas, stark concrete walls
to take full advantage of the night. Check their website and thrift-store furnishings that balance the romanticism
to see what’s on.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of an
19, tel. (+48) 796 62 29 11, www.eterclub.pl. Open underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance
hours depend on the event. For concerts open 20:00 parties, while work days are more low-key with everything
- 03:00, for clubbing open 21:00 - 05:00. UEG from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers,
as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s
RAGTIME top concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go
This veteran venue has grown some grey hairs, but out of their way to try and play in. A must visit.QE-4, ul.
remains an engaging endeavour that refuses to follow Ruska 51 (Pasaż Niepolda), tel. (+48) 570 66 95 70, www.
fashions and retains a charismatic personality of its bezsennoscklub.com. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
own. Vermilion walls are home to all manner of visual 19:00 - 05:00. UEBX
diversions, from framed pics of jazz gods to musical
instruments. A wrought iron mezzanine allows the DOMÓWKA
opportunity to admire all the clutter and the regular If you come on a popular night Domówka is not so much a
Wednesday and Thursday jazz concerts are free to enter club, but an experience. Once you’ve gotten past the face-
and not to be missed.QA-3, Pl. Solny 17, tel. (+48) 71 control, entrance, security and coat-check you’ll stroll into a
343 37 01, www.ragtimecafe.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, packed ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. EXW elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a
bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s
VERTIGO JAZZ CLUB & RESTAURANT eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices. The
This esteemed music entertainment outfit boasts tile and brick wall styling is somehow cheesy and chic at
its own record label, and finally its own venue for the same time, and the coordinated light displays that
hosting almost nightly jazz concerts. Modern in its continually scan the room will leave you mesmerised on a
slick design and acoustic precision, but classic in its Friday or Saturday night. Bring your camera, your weekend
intimate atmosphere and Cotton Club appeal, Vertigo wallet, and dancing shoes, and Domówka will deliver you
is the best jazz club in the region and a nirvana not to dance party paradise.QA-3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508
only for earnest jazz enthusiasts, but also the players, 15 69 12, www.klubdomowka.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00,
who are complimented with a high-profile ‘Artists’ Thu 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Tue,
Lounge’ at stage left. The cocktail prowess of the bar Sun. XW
staff is almost over-the-top, and there’s a nice menu of
creative European eats to accompany the live music, GREY MUSIC CLUB
which generally begins at 19:00 Tuesday to Thursday, Wrocław’s most exclusive nightclub, and well worth the
and 20:30 on Friday and Saturday (check online for payout and pretension required to get inside, no expense
exact details); most concerts are free, and while has been spared here in terms of lighting, sound and
reservations aren’t necessary, they would be wise. design. Grey’s modern minimal space features a fantastic
QB-3, ul. Oławska 13, tel. (+48) 71 335 21 29, www. glass atrium space at its centre, perfect for mingling with
vertigojazz.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00; Sat, Sun 17:00 - the cocktail devouring eye candy all around you, while
24:00, Mon closed. UEGBW some of the best DJs from PL and abroad annihilate the
mature crowd’s ability to do anything other than move
50 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
on the large dance floor. If you’re not convinced that Poles
are the most beautiful people in the world, this place will
change your mind - if you don’t lose it in an explosion of
epileptic ecstasy.QA-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8, tel. (+48) 887
55 55 22, www.greymusicclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only
21:00 - 05:00. XW

MAÑANA CAFE
Reckoned by many to be the best night out in Wrocław,
Mañana is certainly reliable for a raucous weeknight rave-
up and well-loved by all those who live for long nights.
Don’t let the lack of a proper dancefloor prevent you from
doing your Travolta - spontaneous outbreaks of disco
fever are rife and encouraged. The scruffy furnishings, red
lighting and cheeky photos on the wall exemplify the
balance between sexiness and silliness embodied by the
randy retro-chic clientele, and Mañana’s down-to-earth
attitude and funky playlist of favourites from the last 50
years make it one of the most appealing places in the city
to squander your brain cells. With the addition of a VIP room
and the opening of the large summer terrace there’s now
even more space to investigate the lineup of Wrocław’s
lookers.QE-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 343 43
70, www.mananacafe.pl. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00
- 05:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 07:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. GB

NIETOTA
One of Wrocław’s most original venues, Nietota is a
place for artsy discourse, self-destructive decadence and
debauchery. An awful lot of time has gone into the decor
with almost every surface covered in highly-illustrative
original artwork that gives the space a grotesque, creepy-
cool nacht-cabaret atmosphere where concerts and
theatre troops take the stage between weekend DJ nights.
Completely unique in style and atmosphere, the drinks
list is also exceptional with Lindeman’s cherry lambic to
candy the lips of the ladies and delicious Czech Litovel on
draught. Well worth seeking out.QA-3, ul. Kazimierza
Wielkiego 50, tel. (+48) 664 00 76 10. Open 10:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 02:00. EGW

PRIV
The scene of some of the hottest weekend parties in
Wrocław at the moment, the newly renovated PRIV directly
collaborates with a network of clubs in London, resulting
in the regular appearance of some of the biggest names in
the UK’s club scene handling the DJ decks. Of course it can
feel a bit unfriendly at the door, but once inside you’ll find
an intimate club with a modern greyscale design, amazing
sound, VIP room (for up to 20 peeps), lights and eye-candy
convulsing on two dance floors - one devoted to house
music, and the other R’n’B.QB-3, Rynek 36/37, tel. (+48)
609 66 96 96. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. XW

Where’s the party?

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 51

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Wrocław Sightseeing
Built upon dozens of islands, the river is never far away - nor is an eye-opening
view (see above). From ancient architecture to modish murals and Soviet-era
neons, Wrocław has it all and more; so put that drink down and go discover all
there is to see and do in this incredible city.
 Sightseeing
Of all the cities in Poland, Wrocław possesses perhaps
the most convoluted and turbulent history of them all. THE ‘MALUCH’
Known under dozens of different names as it was passed
repeatedly between four countries (and the numerous
kingdoms that preceded them), Wrocław was one of
the most culturally and architecturally diverse cities in
Central Europe before being reduced to rubble a mere 65
years ago. As the city proudly and painstakingly rebuilt
itself, the post-war period saw a new wave of migrants
from today’s western Ukraine enrich not only Wrocław’s
ethnic makeup, but also its cultural wealth as many
cultural treasures from Lwów were transplanted here.
Since shedding the yoke of communism in 1989 and
being ‘rediscovered’ by the west, Wrocław has firmly
established itself among Prague and Kraków as one of Like the Czech Škoda and the East German Trabant, the
Eastern Europe’s top tourist destinations and one of the Polish Maluch has served several purposes during its
undisputed highlights of Poland. lifetime; a taste of ‘freedom’ for families behind the Iron
Curtain, a source of amusement for smirking foreigners,
and now as a cult icon for nostalgics. Through the
WHAT TO SEE years Polish exports have won world acclaim, from
If we think about Wrocław’s city centre in terms of districts, hand-painted pottery to dangerously delicious vodka,
there are three essential areas that visitors shouldn’t so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels is something of
allow themselves to miss. The first is obviously the Old an unlikely hero of Polish engineering. Manufactured
Town, with the marvellously restored Market Square at between 1973 and 2000 in factories in Bielsko-Biała
its centre and its maze of cobbled streets, canals, bridges and Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian
and church spires. Essentially bound by the Odra River Fiat license with its official title being the Polish Fiat
to the north and the Fosa Miejska - or city moat - to the 126p. Its diminutive size earned it the moniker of
south, this area that was once encircled by the city’s ‘Maluch’ (Little One), a name so widely used that the
medieval defensive walls is where you’ll find the bulk of manufacturers officially re-christened the brand in
Wrocław’s historical monuments and museums, as well 1997. When the first one rolled off the production belt
as many beautiful University buildings, soaring churches, in June 1973 it was priced at 69,000zł (approximately
and the city’s infamous gnomes. The Old Town also three times the average annual wage), and became the
includes the ‘District of Mutual Respect’ (E/F-4) - a unique first popular family car in Poland, despite being the size
neighbourhood southwest of the market square which of a small refrigerator. Throughout communist times
includes almost side by side the places of worship of four the car could only be purchased by joining a waiting
different denominations, including the city’s only surviving list, which at times had a backlog of several years,
Jewish synagogue. though diligent workers would often be rewarded with
special vouchers allowing them to jump the queue
(naturally). By the time production came to a halt in
instagram.com/in_your_pocket 2000 over 3.2 million had seen action on the roads of
Poland. Today the conveyor belts may have ground to
a halt but the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a
The Old Town may be the heart of Wrocław, but its soul is remarkable staying power, and you’ll still find scores of
in Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2). This ‘Cathedral Island’ within them coughing smoke as they zip around Polish cities.
easy walking distance northeast of the market square was Today a used Maluch in working condition will retail for
the first part of Wrocław to be settled by Slavic tribes in the as low as 1000zł (you can get one in ‘car show condition’
9th century. Since a bishopric was built there in 1000AD for under 6,000zł), so there’s little stopping you from
it has remained an important place of royal and religious becoming a proud owner yourself.
significance, and home to the city’s most important
Cathedral.

Finally, no visit to Wrocław is complete without a trip

east of the Old Town to Centennial Hall (I-4). The city’s
only UNESCO World Heritage site, this outstanding piece
of architecture turned 100 in 2013 and is surrounded by
beautiful parks and gardens, including Wrocław’s Zoo and a
spectacular multimedia fountain (see p.68 for more). Enjoy
exploring Wrocław. A souped-up Polski Fiat

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 53

 The Old Town

The market square and Town Hall © Gosiek-B, istockphoto.com

If there’s room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your Stairmaster for some time. Only a block north from there
schedule, you’ll find no more rewarding experience than you’ll find Wrocław’s smallest and most engaging street -
meandering around the Old Town. While you’re at it, Stare Jatki (A-2, p.62) - en route to the stunning University
keep your eyes peeled for Wrocław’s adorable and elusive (B-2, p.58), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush
gnomes (p.67); there are over 300 of these little rascals for grotty students; don’t move on before seeing the
running about the city centre, but you’ll only spot them if University Church (yes, even the university has a church),
you’re paying attention. Kids love them so if you want to Aula Leopoldina - the grand Baroque ceremonial hall, or
keep the little ones engaged as you explore the city, set the panoramic city views from the Mathematical Tower.
them to gnome-hunting.
From Plac Uniwersytecki take a walk east to investigate
The first port of call in Wrocław, and that which the entire the Baroque majesty of the Ossolineum palace
city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek and gardens (B-2, p.62) - home to one of the most
(A/B-3, p.56). This is not only the city’s municipal centre, important libraries and national archives in the country
but also the social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a (and open to the public) - before dog-legging on to
place of happenings, concerts and performance art, lined Plac Nankiera (B-2). This lovely street (not ‘plac,’ as you’ll
with terraced cafes and restaurants. Note that while the notice) is lined with churches and leads you straight to
Rynek was originally built in the 13th century, much of Wrocław’s amazing indoor marketplace, Hala Targowa
what you see today is in fact a façade, quite literally. The (C-2, p.79). Here you can pick-up fresh produce and
square was ravaged by fighting in World War II and had sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy bargain bric-
to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s. Though strict a-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping needs
attention was given to original details, particularly those of you have while getting a colourful look at locals living
the frontage, much of what lies behind them experienced their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap
understandable updating (though a medieval cellar never pierogi (what, your radar’s not going off?).
stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly square-shouldered
in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a miraculous From there, locals will not forgive you for missing out on
survivor from the 13th century and the city centre’s defining the Racławice Panorama (C-3, p.60), especially after all
landmark. After exploring the three passageways packed the trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A
with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall you 140m-long canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and
should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3) - known short-lived) victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of
these days as the Flower Market, and always a bright sight the only remaining panoramic paintings in the world - a
thanks to the scores of flower sellers on call here twenty- genre that was actually quite popular in the 19th century.
four hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, If you follow the Fosa Miejska - the remnants of the Old
ready to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos. Town’s medieval moat - you’ll end up at Partisan Hill
(B/C-4, p.61), a spooky windswept ruin that once made
From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. up part of Wrocław’s defensive fortifications. Follow it a bit
Elizabeth’s Church (A-3, p.56), the city’s tallest. Stunning further and you’ll end up just behind the restored Royal
views of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that Palace (A-3, p.60) - Wrocław’s most modern and essential
the climb can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a museum.
54 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
GUIDED TOURS WAIT, WHERE AM I?
FREE WALKING TOUR FOUNDATION
This outfit offers free English-language walking tours of
the Old Town every day at 10:00, and ‘Jewish Wrocław’ every
Monday and Wednesday at 14:00, Fridays and Sundays at
17:30 (from Novermber tours run only on Mon. and Weds.
All tours leave from beside the Fredro monument on the
market square, or nearby in front of Bank Zachodni WBK
(Rynek 9/11) if the monument is obstructed; just look for
the ‘Free Walking Tours’ sign and have some cash ready to
tip these fine people at the tour’s conclusion. Additional
Woodcut of ‘Bressla’ from the Nuremburg Chronicle, 1493
tours are also available, so check their website.Qtel. (+48)
513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com. As a city under constantly shifting rule, Wrocław has
been known by many names throughout its history. In
WRATISLAVIA TOUR fact, the national status of Wrocław has changed more
This outfit organises airport transfers, walking tours often than any other city in Europe. Passing hands
and also golf cart tours of the Old Town. Tours around from the Polish Piasts (1000-1335), to the Kingdom
Lower Silesia and out of town are also available, as are of Bohemia (1335-1526), to the Austrian Habsburgs
less traditional tours and activities like shooting, laser (1526-1741), to the Kingdom of Prussia (1741-1871),
tag, culinary workshops, bird watching and much more. into the German Empire and Third Reich (1871-1945),
Reservations can be made by phone or online.Qtel. and finally back to Poland (1945-today, and hopefully
(+48) 793 15 43 30, www.wratislaviatour.com. Tours in tomorrow as well), Wrocław cannot be claimed as
English, 350zł. the by-rights homeland of any one nation or people
(despite the past efforts of politically motivated
WROCŁAW CITY TOURS revisionist historians to prove otherwise. The city’s
With over 30 different tours of Wrocław and Silesia makeup has always been culturally and religiously
available, these folks can arrange golf cart tours, river diverse, with Poles, Germans, Bohemians, Austrians and
cruises, whatever you want. Tours available in English, Jews all making significant contributions to Wrocław’s
Spanish, German, Russian and Polish starting at 219zł. development. With so many influences and upheavals,
Call one day in advance.Qtel. (+48) 513 94 69 46, www. Wrocław (as we know it today) has seen more than
wroclawcitytour.pl. its fair share of names used in common parlance
throughout the years, including Vratislava, Wrotizla,
WROCŁAW - SILESIA TOURS Wretslaw, Vraclav, Vretslav, Prezlav, Presslaw and
Demonstrating Wrocław’s diversity with theme tours that Bresslau (to name but a few).
trace the city’s different cultures and religions, Wrocław It’s not uncommon today to still see and hear
Silesia Tours offer tours around the city in golf carts, mini- Wrocław referred to by its old German name, ‘Breslau’,
vans, historic trams, or on foot. They can also take you to particularly by and for the German nostalgia tourists
places a bit further afield such as Książ, Świdnica, Jelenia who come here to seek their roots. The Polish name
Góra or Auschwitz. Tours available in English, German, ‘Wrocław’ apparently predates the German name, and
Spanish and Portuguese. Call one day in advance to is thought to have been derived from the name of the
negotiate prices.Qtel. (+48) 509 96 00 34, www. Czech sovereign ‘Vratislav’. Variants of the German name
wroclawsilesiatours.pl. began appearing in documents shortly after Poland lost
control of the region in 1335. Some sources claim that
Frederick the Great changed the city’s name to Breslau
in 1741, though this is subject to historical dispute.
The problem of Wrocław’s complex titular nomenclature
was a challenge historian Norman Davies tackled when
writing his thorough history of the city; Davies eventually
settled on ‘Microcosm’ as the title of his excellent book in
acknowledgement of the city’s standing as a constant
crossroads for Eastern European cultures and concerns,
and the unfairness of putting such a wide-ranging study
under a title with a limited representation of its history.
And while the temptation to re-title this little tome
‘Microcosm In Your Pocket’ is ever-present, we’ve got
Michał Filarowski - tel. +48 793 154 330 enough connotative problems as it is…
office@ wratislaviatour.com - www.wratislaviatour.com

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 55

 Sightseeing
MARKET SQUARE CHURCHES
ST. ELIZABETH’S CHURCH
Among the oldest churches in Wrocław and the tallest
buildings in the Old Town, St. Elizabeth’s is unmistakable. A
church has stood on this site since the 12th century, but the
current Gothic structure dates to the 14th century. This is not
the luckiest church in the world: it was destroyed in 1529 by
heavy hail, suffered severe damage in WWII and then was the
victim of a mysterious fire in 1976. Today the church serves as
a military garrison church. Inside you’ll find impressive Gothic
and Renaissance altars and over 100 tombs of once prominent
citizens. From April to September (weather dependent), the
highlight is the 91m tower (the original tower was 128m), but
don’t underestimate the climb of over 300 steps. The view
© Patryk Michalski | dollar photo club from the top is more than worth the arduous journey and 5zł.
QA-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety 1/1, tel. (+48) 71 343 16 38, www.
While you’re taking in the medieval majesty of the kosciolgarnizon.wroclaw.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 13:00
Wrocław’s market square (Rynek), bear in mind that it - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
was almost totally rebuilt from a pile of ruins after the
Siege of 1945. Such was the remarkable dedication to ST. MARY MAGDALENE’S CHURCH
detail of Wrocław’s ‘pioneers’ - those who resettled here This massive church was the second to be built on the
from the east after WWII - that today tourists can even left bank of the Odra River, after St. Adalbert’s. During the
admire a replica of the stone pillory (south east of the Reformation it was taken over by the Protestants and was
Town Hall, B-3) used to flog people from 1492 to well not returned to the Catholic Church until after WWII. It’s
into the 18th century. In the post-war period the statue most striking features are the 12th-century Romanesque
of famous writer Aleksander Fredro (seated southwest portal that was moved here from the Benedictine Abbey -
of the Town Hall, A-3) was also brought from L’viv in 1956 considered to be Wrocław’s most valuable relic from that era
to replace the statue that had previously occupied the - and the unique ‘Penitants’ Bridge’ spanning the two soaring,
space up till the end of the war - that of Kaiser Wilhelm. yet stunted towers whose cupolas were never replaced
after WWII. Though there’s restoration work at the church,
Wrocław’s market square and much of the urban grid the tower is open (11:00 - 18:00, 5zł), and you can get some
around it was laid out by city planners in 1241. It was thrilling views of the Old Town while traversing the open-air
then and remains even now one of the largest squares bridge 46m above ground.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, www.
of its kind in Europe, and the magnificent Town Hall mariamagdalena.wroclaw.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun
(Ratusz) at its centre is a masterpiece of medieval 10:00 - 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
architecture. Work began on the city’s administrative
seat in the late 13th century and continued for 250 UNIVERSITY CHURCH
years, resulting in the eclectic edifice covered in OF THE BLESSED NAME OF JESUS
decorative embellishments that we see today. Today This Late Baroque church has
the beautiful ensemble contains the Museum of been ranked among the most
Burgher Art, as well as numerous restaurants, cafes beautiful in Central Europe,
and bars. and makes a worthwhile visit.
Built by the Jesuits as part of
Ranging from Gothic to Art Nouveau, the impressive the university complex in the
facades of the townhouses lining the market square late 17th century on the site of
also deserve closer inspection, one notable exception the Piast castle, a section of the
being the drab ten-storey office building at Rynek 11. original castle structure can still
Completed in 1931 the structure was designed by be seen in the northern sacristy
Heinrich Rump and offers a glimpse of how the market - the alcove at the far end of the
square may have looked had a ludicrous project to church. The interior, painted to imitate marble and gilt, is
modernise the historic centre come to fruition. It was very well preserved and most of the furnishings are original.
the idea of Max Berg - creator of the concrete bliss Look up to see the fresco on the vaults; the figures are 18th-
called Centennial Hall - to demolish the buildings century depictions of natives from the Americas, Africa,
surrounding the Rynek, replacing them with 20 Asia and Europe. Visitors are even given an audioguide
storey concrete towers. After much deliberation city which is available in seven different languages. Donations
authorities abandoned the plan, in the process saving suggested, but not required.QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel.
the Wrocław loved by all today.QA/B-3. (+48) 71 344 94 23, www.uniwersytecki.archidiecezja.
wroc.pl. Open 12:00 - 15:00 and by prior arrangement.
56 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
MONUMENTS TOURIST INFORMATION
MONUMENT TO THE VICTIMS
OF THE KATYŃ MASSACRE INFOWRO JATKI WROCŁAW
Anyone who has an unindoc- QA-2, ul. Jatki 24, tel. (+48) 71 344 41 16. Open
trinated knowledge of World 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. From November
War II history or who has 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
spent more than 15 minutes
in Poland, is probably familiar LOWER SILESIAN CULTURAL INFORMATION
with the subject of this me- CENTRE
morial which remembers the QA-3, Rynek - Ratusz 24, tel. (+48) 71 342 22 91,
22,000 Polish military officers, www.dcik.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
policemen, intelligentsia and
POWs murdered by the NKVD TOURIST INFORMATION
on Stalin’s orders in 1940. QA-3, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 71 344 31 11, www.
Designed by Warsaw sculp- wroclaw-info.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. W
tor Tadeusz Tchórzewski, the
striking monument depicts the sword-wielding Angel of
Death on a high pedestal over the figure of Katyń Pieta - the
Matron of the Homeland despairing over the body of a mur- SKY TOWER
dered prisoner of war. Symbolic granite walls/graves flank
the scene, with the names of the POW camps and places of Completed in 2012,
mass murder inscribed on them. Anguished, terrifying and Wrocław boasts the tall-
gruesome in turn, with detail down to the bullethole in the est building in Poland,
back of the fallen officer’s head, this evocative monument which rises some 212m
was unveiled in 1999 and can be found in the park next to into the atmosphere.
the Racławice Panorama.QD-3, Słowacki Park. Comprising a small city
in and of itself, with resi-
THE ANONYMOUS PEDESTRIANS dential apartments, of-
When you’re tired of gazing at Wrocław’s multitude of fices, shops, restaurants,
cherubs, gargoyles and bearded national heroes clutching entertainment and more
important pens and looking frightfully serious, hike on over its 50 floors, tourists
down to this intersection to have a look at an entirely have plenty of reasons to
different take on public art. The wonderfully lifelike bronze visit this modern archi-
statues descending into the earth are a memorial to the tectural marvel, includ-
introduction of martial law on December 13, 1981, and the ing the largest pool hall
hordes of people who disappeared (‘went underground’) in PL, a 24-lane bowling
in the middle of the night courtesy of the militia. The work alley (see Leisure), an
of Jerzy Kalina, the 14 statues were erected here in the over-sized Salvador Dali sculpture, and an amaz-
middle of the night in 2005 on the 24th anniversary of the ing interactive installation of 60 screens that react
introduction of martial law, though the prophetic moulds to the movement of visitors as they engage the
were actually made several years before the events they 40m2 exhibit on the first floor (note though that
commemorate.QA-5, Corner of ul. Piłsudskiego and ul. this isn’t always running). The highlight, however, is
Świdnicka. the year-round indoor viewing point on the 49th
floor. At a height of 200 metres, this is the highest
THE NAKED SWORDSMAN panoramic view point in Poland, and accessed by
The University of Wrocław presents plenty of superb an elevator which whisks you to the top in less than
photographic opportunities, but the most popular has to a minute. Located only minutes from the Old Town,
be the naked swordsman proudly exhibiting himself at the take trams 7 or 20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QE-6, ul.
entrance of the main building. The work of Hugo Lederer, Powstańców Śląskich 95, www.galeria.skytower.
the splendidly anatomical sculpture was erected in 1904 pl. View point open Mon-Thu 09:00 - 20:30, Fri-
and prompted complaints from parish priests that students Sat 09:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Access is
would be morally corrupted by the statue’s naked form. granted every 30mins on the :00 and :30 marks.
Early grumblings were countered by the legend that the View point admission Mon-Fri 11/6zł, Sat-Sun
statue represents an extravagant gambler who squandered 15/8zł; children 3 and under free. Ticket office
all but his sword in drunken card games - thus serving as an on level +1; clearly marked signs will guide you
example to the university’s 30,000+ students. Town mayor there. N
George Bender agreed and the statue has stood ever since.
QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki.
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 Sightseeing
WROCŁAW UNIVERSITY MUSEUMS
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Like all the best museums in Poland, Wrocław’s
Archaeological Museum is located inside a building
that’s a museum in itself. In this instance the city’s former
15th-century Arsenal plays host to the usual suspects
found lurking in most museums of its type. There are
English captions now for many exhibits, while others,
such as the gargoyles and the reconstructed thatched
house fascinate without the need to know more. With
© Paweł Mruk | dollar photo club four free permanent exhibits - Stone Age and early
Founded by the Jesuits in 1670, the magnificent Baroque Bronze Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age and Medieval Silesia,
main building of Wrocław University and the adjacent displays include everyday objects from these times such
Church of the Blessed Name of Jesus (see Churches) as weapons, ornaments and tools; note that temporary
were built on the former site of a derelict Piast castle exhibits sometimes require an additional paid ticket. In
after a land grant from Emperor Leopold. In 1811, Prussia the same building you’ll also find the Military Museum.
secularised all church property and took over administration QA-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96,
of the university. The dying days of WWII saw the university www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
library turned into a makeshift HQ for the occupying Nazis, Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent
and at the war’s end the German faculty were all but exhibits. U
exiled, with the replacement professors arriving from the
University of Lwów forming the first Polish faculty to teach ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM
here. The University still functions as an academic building, Located inside a gorgeous 16th century monastery,
and past professors include Alois Alzheimer (the man who the city’s ‘architecture museum’ is actually more of a
gave his name to the disease) and Robert Bunsen (who decorative and applied arts museum, with much of
didn’t invent the Bunsen burner but improved it to such a the collections consisting of decorative details from
degree that it was named in his honour). Since the start of the built environment that were lost during WWII.
the 20th century, the university has produced a remarkable Permanent displays include beautiful examples of
9 Nobel Prize winners and today over 40,000 students are stained glass from the 12th century to the Art Nouveau
enrolled with 9,000 graduating each year. era, a collection of tiled ceramic stoves, intricate door
Despite its ongoing function as an academic institution, handles, a selection of truly ghastly gargoyles, and a
the main university building is open to tourists. Three large model of the city as it was in 1740, which clearly
tickets are available, giving you access to 2, 3 or 4 shows its status as a fortress surrounded by water.
university rooms, and all of the rooms are now equipped Keeps your eyes peeled for occasional temporary
with free audioguides in English, Polish, German, Russian, exhibits as well, which usually require an admission fee.
Spanish and Italian. We recommend you splash out for all QC-3, ul. Bernardyńska 5, tel. (+48) 71 344 82 78,
four to avoid any later confusion and consternation. Be www.ma.wroc.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 -
aware, however, that the areas accessible to tourists are 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free
laid out over four floors and there is no elevator. for permanent exhibits. U
The first of the University Museum’s two main highlights is
undoubtedly Aula Leopoldina. In true Baroque style, the ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
ceremonial hall is a virtual explosion of cherubs and swag. Located outside the Old Town in the gorgeous 18th-
The painting on the ceiling depicts the apotheosis of God’s century Neo-Baroque summer palace of Wrocław’s
wisdom. The portraits ringing the walls depict the founding bishops, this under-appreciated museum traces Silesian
fathers of the University; some years ago four of them were folk culture and customs. The best part may be the top
stolen and two have yet to be returned. Winding upstairs floor where life-sized dolls are arranged in quaint scenes
past the odd exhibition and a line in the floor demarcating of life in the region before 1945. It won’t take you long
the 51st parallel - which runs right through the building to see it, but the national costumes and farm equipment
- your visit to the museum ends on the terrace of the offer a glimpse of life you won’t find in urban Wrocław.
university’s ‘Mathematical Tower’ which affords great And the museum’s strange fondness for the definite
photo opportunities and panoramic views of the Old Town article in the English labels is worth a giggle. To get there
and Odra River.QB-2, Pl. Uniwersytecki 1, tel. (+48) 71 375 take tram 3 from ‘Rynek,’ getting off at ‘Pl. Zgody.’QH-5,
26 18, www.muzeum.uni.wroc.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:30. ul. Traugutta 111/113, tel. (+48) 71 344 33 13, www.
Closed Wed. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. muzeumetnograficzne.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu
Durion lectures and certain special events the Aula 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł, children
Leopoldina is also closed to visitors. Admission 10-12/6- under 7 free, groups of over 10 pay 2zł per person,
8zł depending on how many rooms you wish to visit. N Sat free. Admission free with a ticket to the Racławice
Panorama. UN
58 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
MILITARY MUSEUM
The other half of the 15th-
century arsenal that houses
the Archaeology Museum
is, appropriately, the Military
Museum. Not surprisingly,
the medieval halls are filled
with arms and weapons
of all sorts, many of them
dating to the 18th century. Helmets, swords and guns are
the forte here, and you probably know better than we do
if it’s worth the hour of your time it’ll consume. Note that
temporary exhibits sometimes require a paid ticket.QA-2,
ul. Cieszyńskiego 9, tel. (+48) 71 347 16 96, www.mmw.
pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission free for permanent exhibit. N

NATIONAL MUSEUM
Wrocław’s National Museum houses one of the largest
collections of Polish art. Before the 18th century this means
almost exclusively religious art: altarpieces, urns for relics, FEEL THE HISTORY!
busts of saints and the like. Later parts of the collection See how Wroclaw fought against communism.
also include applied arts and quite a few pieces on national Ask about the possibility of seeing the hidden room!
themes (uprisings and saints figure heavily in Polish history).
By far the most interesting bit is the 20th-century collection.
Innovative installation artists like Magdalena Abakanowicz
KONSPIRA - CAFE RESTAURANT CLUB
and Józef Szajna make this an exciting period in Polish art. Pl. Solny 11, Wrocław | konspira.org
QD-3, Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5, tel. (+48) 71 372 51
50, www.mnwr.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon, Tue (except the last Tue of the month).
From mid-October open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon, Tue (except the last Tue of the month). KONSPIRA
Admission 15/10zł, students under 26 (with ID) 1zł,
children under 7 free, Sat free for permanent exhibitions, In addition to being a fantastically
groups of over 10 people 5zł per person. Admission free cheap Polish restaurant, Konspira
with a ticket from the nearby Racławice Panorama. U is a self-declared ‘Centre for
Historical Education.’ The interior
POST & COMMUNICATIONS MUSEUM is designed to emulate the 1980s,
Housed inside 1929’s former Central Post Office, this magnificent while giving guests a glimpse into
building was one of the first high-rises in Wrocław and is the Soviet era via newspapers,
easily recognisable from the Old Town thanks to the crown of posters, political cartoons and
satellite dishes on its roof. Today it houses one of the city’s most other iconography on the walls. None of this would
idiosyncratic and fascinating museums, displaying the complex be particularly useful to naive non-Polish speakers,
history of Poland’s postal service and the development of but Konspira has another rabbit in its hat that’s
communications technology from the 16th century to the worth revealing. One of the restaurant’s wardrobes is
present day. Over two floors you’ll see a wealth of paintings and actually a secret passageway into a hidden room that
graphics, postage stamps, mailboxes, mail carriages, uniforms, recreates an ‘80s Polish apartment, filled with everyday
decorative letter scales and other instruments including early household items, toys, appliances, and even police
telegram machines, telephones, radios and computers. The batons and riot gear from the martial law days. It’s a
unique and engrossing experience even includes information unique look into the past, and the fact that the staff
in English and is a great way to change your attitude towards isn’t that forthcoming about it (you might have to ask)
PL’s postal service from one of frustration to admiration and almost makes the act of entry feel cooly clandestine.
wonder. Visiting takes about 1 hour and is recommended. This entire establishment is a bit of a museum, and
English language guided group tours are available if arranged though you’ll get more out of it with a local guide,
in advance.QC-3, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 65, even without one it’s worth investigating; and the food
www.muzeum.wroclaw.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Wed 10:00 is certainly worth staying for.QA-3, Pl. Solny 11, tel.
- 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/6zł, Sun (+48) 796 32 66 00, www.konspira.org. Open 12:00 -
free, Weds 15:00 - 17:00 2zł; family ticket 15zł. Groups over 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
10 people 5zł per person. N
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 Sightseeing
THE ROYAL PALACE, HISTORY MUSEUM
RACŁAWICE PANORAMA
This unique 15 by 140m panoramic painting depicts
the first battle of the Kościuszko Uprising, in which
General Tadeusz Kościuszko orchestrated and led an
armed peasant rebellion against Russian rule in a heroic
bid for Polish independence in 1794. Kosciuszko’s
rag-tag scythe-wielding troops won the day, but the
Uprising was ultimately doomed and Poland wouldn’t
be truly self-governing until the 20th century. That
hasn’t stopped the short-lived victory from being an
enduring source of Polish pride to this day, however. The main branch of the Wrocław City Museum, housed
inside the renovated Baroque Royal Palace, is Wrocław’s
The Panorama was created in a burst of patriotic fervour most modern, most essential, and, quite frankly, best
by Jan Styka and Wojciech Kossak in Lwów over 9 museum. Purchased by Frederick the Great of Prussia
months, and completed in 1894. Their work, displayed in 1750, the palace was converted to become the royal
in a rotunda built especially for it, was a popular - residence of the Prussian Hohenzolern kings - a function
and financial - success. After WWII, the Soviet Union, which it served from the 17th to 20th century. Badly
which absorbed Lwów (now Lviv, Ukraine), sent the damaged during WWII, only half of the structure survived
painting to Wrocław. Its subject, however, was a bit too and now houses four free permanent exhibitions: ‘1000
nationalistic for the local Communist authorities, who Years of Wrocław’, tracing the complex history of the
rejected several bids to display it. The current building Lower Silesian capital from the Middle Ages to the
was completed in 1967, but the Panorama itself was modern day through its art and artefacts; The Gallery
not installed for display until 1985. Unfortunately of Art in Wrocław; the meticulous recreated royal
almost nothing has changed since then, and the over- apartments; and the unique Beyersdorf Room, decorated
priced attraction is run in the same manner it was 30 entirely in Dutch tiles from the 17th century. It takes the
years ago. Still, an unbelievable 1,600 people (including better part of a day to see it all, but there’s a nice cafe
dozens of school groups) file through each day, so when you need a break, and make sure you don’t miss
don’t expect to just walk right in; admission occurs the regal Baroque gardens behind the palace.QA-3,
every half-hour and you’ll very likely have to wait. The ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35, tel. (+48) 71 391 69 40,
painting is augmented with lights and artificial terrain www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
to make the experience more ‘real’ as you are narrated Closed Mon. Admission free. English-speaking guided
through the battle by a taped lecture on your own tour 400zł. Audio guides in English and German 10 zł.
private headset which is available in an astounding 17 U
languages (including Esperanto). Poles will consider it
their patriotic duty to come here, but the experience TOWN HALL, MUSEUM OF BURGHER ART
may resonate less positively with other tourists, unless The first thing you’ll probably notice about the Town Hall
you’re a fan of obscure and forgotten genres of 19th (Ratusz) is that it seems to be patched together from bits
century art.QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 11, tel. (+48) 71 344 and pieces of a dozen different buildings, and in many ways
23 44, www.panoramaraclawicka.pl. Open 09:00 it was. Construction began at the end of the 13th century
- 17:00. Admission 25/18zł, family ticket 18zł per and continued - through all the changing political and
person, children under 7 free. U artistic forces - for about 250 years. The Town Hall was the
centre of city life up until the early 20th century, housing
the Town Council, merchants’ stalls and (most importantly?)
a beer cellar. The building escaped relatively unscathed
after World War II (an estimated 10% was damaged). After
reconstruction work, it was re-opened as the Museum of
Burgher Art (Muzeum Sztuki Mieszczańskiej). Inside you
can see the remarkable Gothic interiors, a collection of
silver and other city artefacts. Unfortunately these exhibits
are poorly marked and finding your way around can be a
bit of a stab in the dark. For us, the most fun part of the
Town Hall is exploring the elaborate exterior decoration;
see if you can find scenes from Aesop’s fables, or grotesque
scenes of medieval pub life.QA-3, Rynek, tel. (+48) 71
347 16 90, www.mmw.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00
Detail of Kościuszko directing his rag-tag army. - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free for permanent
exhibits. U
60 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
WROCŁAW CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM
This old air raid shelter just west of the Old Town has been STREET ART
resurrected as a place for contemporary art in Wrocław. The
round and concrete above-ground bunker has been cleverly
adapted with an elevator at its centre which whizzes you up to
the fantastic 6th floor cafe, which features a terrace and great
views, and may just be the highlight of visiting here. As for the
art, the permanent exhibit focuses on contemporary art from
the 20th Century with a strong Wrocław presence and they
have numerous temporary exhibitions (see our Culture & Events
section to see what’s on). The most striking pieces in the whole
collection are outside the museum itself. Local artist Stanisław
Dróżdż’s Hour-glass on the facade of the building and the
amazing and enormous Train to Heaven sculpture of a vertical
locomotive nearby will make you get your camera out. To get
there, hop on trams 3, 10, 20, 23, or 33 (quite a bit of choice there)
at the „Rynek” stop, getting off 3 stops later at „Pl. Strzegomski.”
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary location - a new
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art
museum headquarters is set to spring up on ul. Purkyniego, near
(check out Wrocław’s Polish Poster Gallery at ul.
the Racławice Panorama, the Museum of Architecture, and the
Św. Mikołaja 54/55, E-4, if you want proof ), but when
Academy of Fine Arts.QPl. Strzegomski 2a (Fabryczna), tel.
it comes to public street graffiti, too often it steers
(+48) 71 356 42 67, www.muzeumwspolczesne.pl. Open
closer to ‘vandalism,’ rarely graduating beyond slurs,
12:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free
gang signs and football allegiances. Thanks to a strong
for permanent exhibit; temporary exhibits 10/5zł, family
underground art community, however, visitors to
ticket 15zł, Thu admission free. U
Wrocław will encounter plenty of urban space that has
been elaborately decorated with street art that strives
PLACES OF INTEREST to be just that: art. In fact, thanks to its own initiative
of embracing rather than rejecting the trend, Wrocław
BASZTA NIEDŹWIADKA (BEAR TOWER)
has made itself a veritable destination for large-scale
One of the only surviving fragments of the medieval defensive
street art. Today the city is decorated with dozens of
walls that once circled Wrocław’s Old Town, this obscure tower
highly visible murals in public space, and with that
hidden right in the centre was first built in the 13th century
number growing all the time, urban art has emerged
to protect the city from Mongrel mayhem, acquiring the
as a legitimate attraction in the city.
basic appearance it retains today a century later. As Wrocław
expanded, Niedźwiadek Tower quickly lost its military Formerly a strictly underground art form, things started
importance and became hemmed in by residential buildings to change in 2008 when the curators of the city’s
- the close proximity of which spared it from being razed vanguard Galeria Awangarda organised Poland’s first
along with the rest of the city’s fortifications under Napoleon’s street art festival (dubbed ‘Out of Sth’) by inviting 20 of
orders in 1807. 75% destroyed during Festung Breslau, the Europe’s biggest names in urban art to do installations
historic tower and its surviving stretch of wall were rebuilt throughout Wrocław. A year later cult culture hangout
during restoration works in the 1950s and it was then that the Niskie Łąki helped organise the first Pink Piknik
weathered stone sculpture of a ‘bear’ (though historians tend Festival, filling the entire courtyard between ul. Ruska
to believe it’s a lion) discovered near ul. Łaciarska was placed in and ul. Św. Antoniego (E-4) with colourful art. Further
the tower’s south-east corner, thus giving the tower its name. editions of Out of Sth followed in 2010 and 2012, and
Today the interior of the tower hosts Baszta - a hip hangout with Wrocław University and the city itself (as part
for coffee, beer, and cheap veggie eats. To find it look in the of its European Capital of Culture 2016 programme)
courtyard just south of Hala Targowa between ul. Piaskowa also contributing commissions, Wrocław has strongly
and ul. Kraińskiego.QC-3, ul. Kraińskiego 14. secured its status as Poland’s street art capital.
PARTISAN HILL Those with an interest in street art will have no problem
If you’re walking along ul. Ks. Skargi it’s impossible to miss tracking down some of the city’s finest examples and
the grandiose crescent-shaped structure rising above Most we’re making it even easier. In the maps of our print
Skargi. One of the few remaining ancient fortifications that guide you’ll find many of Wrocław’s most visible murals
once protected the Old Town from invasion, Partisan Hill was marked with spray paint can icon so you can
built between 1594 and 1598, and originally awarded the literally use them to give yourself a self-guided tour of
name ‘Bastion Sakwowy’ (Saddlebag Bastion). The buildings the city’s mural art. We encourage you to do just that
you see today date from the 19th century, however, when and check out some of Wrocław’s alternative artistic
the area was redeveloped as public recreational space. A visions.
fearsome tower designed by Berlin architect Carl Schmidt
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 61
 Sightseeing
was added in 1867, though this was demolished during
NEON WROCŁAW WWII to prevent advancing Russian troops from using it as a
reference point for artillery shelling. At the start of the Siege
of 1945 the subterranean bunkers and catacombs were
used as HQ by Nazi high command, though they relocated
in March 1945 as the Red Army drew closer. After the war
the hillock was oddly re-christened ‘Partisan Hill’ and the old
cellars temporarily housed a museum. Sadly sold to private
investors in the 1990s, and having since been occupied by
beer gardens, strip clubs and restaurants, today the area lies
in complete disarray, forlorn and forgotten - a once gleaming
Communist Poland typically calls to mind a cold, colourless construction littered with smashed bottles and spray can
landscape of uniform concrete drabness - essentially the squiggles. At the moment a fence feebly attempts to cordon
antithesis of energetic and illuminated Times Square off the crumbling arcades, while two bars keep parts of this
or Las Vegas, the very pinnacles of capitalist decadence complex accessible to the public - Wicar’s Pub in the cellars,
and indecency. The little known irony here, however, and Colloseum Jazz Club in the old observatory at the top.
is that neon signage - which is most closely associated Partisan Hill’s legends of Nazi tunnels and medieval torture
with American commercialism and consumerism - was chambers, combined with the creepy, wind-swept loneliness
actually prolific in the People’s Republic of Poland during of the site today, make this place a must for those who enjoy
the Cold War era. After Socialist Realism died with Stalin the thrill of urban trespassing.QB-4, ul. Ks. Skargi.
in the late 50s, a new, less restricted period of creative
expression began in Poland, and neon rather oddly STARE JATKI
became the favoured medium of city authorities looking
for an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban
landscape and create a veneer of economic prosperity at
a time when stores shelves were practically bare. During
the ‘neonisation’ programme of the 1960s and ‘70s, the
country’s most gifted architects and graphic designers
were commissioned to create unique neon advertising
for everything from Polish products and state-run
companies to cultural landmarks like cinemas, theatres,
nightclubs and train stations. Vibrant, stylish and often
incredibly creative neon signs were an integral part of the
urban landscape of communist Poland. © stepmar, Dollar Photo Club
Though the collapse of the communist economy meant One of Wrocław’s most engaging streets, ul. Jatki is no more
the plug got pulled on the country’s neons back in the late than one city block long, connecting ul. Kiełbaśnicza with ul.
‘70s, today neon is back in vogue and the country’s signs Odrzańska. It’s picturesque charm is no doubt due to the fact
are being restored. Wrocław is still home to some of PL’s that it has retained its medieval character throughout the ages;
most iconic and most photographed neon signs. Neon though most of the structures on Stare Jatki date from the
greets visitors immediately upon arrival throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, the line of low level buildings were
Wrocław train station (B-6), and the famous ‘Dobry constructed on medieval foundations and some elements
Wieczór we Wrocławiu’ (Good Evening in Wrocław) from the 13th century are still visible on the south side of the
sign across the street is there to welcome you as soon street. Though in past times the principal industry here was
as you step foot outside (B-5). Other famous Soviet-era meat - butchered beasts filled the wooden stalls, today the
neons include the entrance gate of the Wrocław Zoo alleyway is home to numerous artists’ studios and souvenir
(I-4) and the animated antics of the burglar atop the PZU stalls. The defining feature of Stare Jatki is the collection of
building on Plac Kościuszki (A-4), while the modern, cast iron farm animals at the start of the street. Sculpted by
hand-scripted sign of the Academy of Fine Arts (ul. Piotr Wieczorek and erected in the 1990s this ‘Memorial to
Traugutta 19/21, C-4) encapsulates the comeback this Slaughtered Animals’ was funded by the local government,
art form has made in recent years. The opening of Neon and in addition to being one of Wrocław’s most photographed
Side Club & Gallery (E-4, p.46) now gives visitors the attractions, also serves as an obstacle course for party casualties
opportunity to admire dozens of salvaged neon signs pouring out of Klub Na Jatkach.QA-2, ul. Jatki.
all in one place, while directly connecting neon to local
hipster culture. On our website you’ll find all of Wrocław’s THE OSSOLINEUM
most electrifying neons listed with GPS coordinates This stunning Baroque palace complex on the Odra riverbank
so you can use the mobile version of our website was rebuilt to its late 17th century designs after being
(m.wroclaw.inyourpocket.com) on your smartphone damaged heavily during WWII and is today one of the most
to easily go out and get your ne-on. outstanding works of Baroque architecture in PL. Originally a
hospital and convent, later a college, today the magnificent
62 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
grounds are home to the Ossolineum Library - an important
research centre and national archive, the country’s oldest WROCŁAW IYP ONLINE
still-running publishing centre and one of its largest library
collections. Established in 1817 by Józef Maksymilian Ossoliński Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re
when he began collecting Polish manuscripts and cultural actually only able to publish a fraction of all the excellent
documents in his Vienna flat, recognising their importance to content we have on Wrocław and the surrounding
national culture after Poland was wiped from the world map, region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit our website
Ossoliński’s private library became a national institute and - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just how much
was eventually moved to L’viv where it expanded generously. of the country we cover, and to download guides to
After post-war border changes the collection was moved Warsaw, Kraków, Gdańsk, Poznań, Katowice and
to Wrocław, however communist authorities confiscated other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
over 80% of it which presumably remains in L’viv today. The sampling of great Wrocław-related content we didn’t
collections of the Ossolineum are some of the most valuable have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find
in the country and include manuscripts by Polish bards Adam it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, writings by Copernicus, and
drawings by Rembrandt and Durer. The site of regular free GROSSROSEN
exhibitions, the Ossolineum is otherwise worth a look around Located 65km from Wrocław,
for the building itself, with the library and inner and outer the small village of Gross-
courtyards all accessible to the public.QB-2, ul. Szewska 37, Rosen (today Rogoźnice) was
tel. (+48) 71 344 44 71, www.ossolineum.pl. Open 08:00 - the site of one of the largest
15:00; Mon, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From October concentration camps in the
open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Third Reich, famous even
then for its harsh conditions
WATER TOWER and high mortality rate.
Modelled on a medieval castle, Today the site is a museum and memorial to the
this architectural masterpiece victims; learn more here:
only a short tram ride south iyp.me/grossrosen
of the centre shouldn’t be
missed. Originally designed by THE BEER WAR OF 1380
Karl Klimm, an eminent Breslau In the city’s early Bohemian days, a quibble between
architect and the brains the Church and City Council over beer sales blew up
behind the Zwierzyniecki into a Chicago gangland-style turf war, with absurd
Bridge (J-4), the 63m tower and disastrous results: Ostrów Tumski burned,
was completed in 1905 and the mayor was lynched, and beheadings were
supplied water to the residents rife. Learn the bizarre and fascinating story of the
of southern Wrocław, with the Vretslav Beer War:
base of the building used to iyp.me/beerwar
house employees. From its THE RED BARON
beginnings this fairytale tower was equipped with an electric Born in Breslau/Wrocław,
lift to whisk visitors to the top for panoramic views; costing Manfred von Richthofen
10 pfennigs, a clear day would afford sightseers uninterrupted was the top fighter pilot in
views of the Sudety Mountains 100kms away, and a red flag the aerial dogfights of ‘The
would wave from the top whenever viewing was deemed Great War.’ A legend in his
particularly good. The sculptors Taschner and Bednorz own time, he was awarded
added several intricate carvings to the sandstone, including Germany’s greatest military
medieval style bas reliefs depicting winged beasts engaged honour after his 16th kill
in gruesome scenes, and a spectacular fountain spouting en route to upwards of 75, and his death remains
water from the underground spring below the building. controversial. Learn more in our feature:
During the 1945 Siege of Breslau the tower served as a iyp.me/redbaron
military observation point, and in spite of heavy shelling in the
immediate vicinity survived largely unscathed. Up until the FESTUNG BRESLAU
‘80s it continued to function as a water plant, though black In 1944 Hitler declared Breslau a ‘closed military fortress’
with soot and pockmarked with bullet holes. In 1995 it was to be defended from the advancing Soviet army at
purchased by Stephan Elektronik Investment and restored it all costs. The ensuing siege lasted for 80 days, cost
to its former glory. Unfortunately there’s no viewing platform thousands of lives and left the city a smouldering heap
at the top today, but if you make the trip you can dine inside of ruins. IYP tells the full story, including where to see
at the Wieża Ciśnień bistro and restaurant. To get there hop traces of wartime Breslau in Wrocław today:
on tram numbers 2, 6 or 7, getting off at the ‘Pl. Powstańców iyp.me/festungbreslau
Śląskich’ stop.QE-7, ul. Sudecka 125a.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 63
 Ostrów Tumski

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Playing soul to the Rynek’s heart, Ostrów Tumski is the gem city has sadly seen its share of floods since then as well).
at the centre of Wrocław’s crown. This, after all, is where Seemingly miles from the bustle of Rynek, perhaps the real
the city began, making it one of the most historically joy of Ostrów Tumski is its other-worldly feel. Katedralna and
significant parts of town, in addition to its most archaically Idziego Streets both provide cobbled reminders of the past -
picturesque. The district’s history has always been closely Idziego especially, though it lacks the postcard worthy sights
tied to Catholicism and today you’ll find an incredible of Katedralna, is a particularly gorgeous street, still lit today
concentration of religious buildings across the river, making by original gas lamps and providing the perfect frame for a
it an incredibly peaceful place to explore and relax. picturesque, romantic evening stroll. Keep your eyes peeled
at dusk for the district’s famous lamplighter as he goes about
During the latter part of the 9th century what is now known his daily duty of lighting Ostów Tumski’s gas lamps by hand.
as Ostrów Tumski (the name means ‘Cathedral Island’ in
Polish) was settled by a Slavic tribe, the Śleżanie, who
considered the island impregnable. The first bishopric in WHAT TO SEE
Lower Silesia soon followed in 1000, and for the next two and A visit to this lovely, peaceful part of Wrocław rightly begins
a half centuries Ostrów Tumski was the centre of Wrocław at Most Piaskowy (Sand Bridge, C-2). This is the oldest
before the marauding Tartars proved they could indeed bridge in Wrocław, built in 1861 and an engineering marvel,
make it pregnant (so to speak); pregnant with fire and ruin, if no great shakes on the design front. The original bridge,
that is. After its destruction, the city’s nucleus shifted across built back in the 11th century, was part of the ancient trade
the river where its development would be less restricted by route - the Amber Road, which led from the Baltic Sea to
rivers. Ostrów Tumski, meanwhile, became a place of almost Vienna, and thence to Venice. As you walk along ul. Jadwigi
exclusively religious and royal (the Piast Dynasty built a you will pass the Russian Orthodox Church of Sts. Cyril and
castle here in the 1260s) significance. With a few exceptions Methodius, the Baroque-era University Library, and the
it remains primarily a place of worship and reflection to this Gothic Church of the Blessed Virgin on the Sand, famous
day; as such, there are few shops, dwellings, cafes, bars and for its 16th century icon of the Virgin Mary in the northern
restaurants, and the Wrocław Archdiocese occupies almost all nave. From here the beloved, iron, 1890-built Most Tumski
of the beautifully maintained classical buildings you will see. (Tumski Bridge, C-2) leads you across to the oldest part of
the city; look out for the statues of St. Jadwiga (Hedwig),
One of the first things observant visitors may notice is that Silesia’s patron saint, and John the Baptist, Wrocław’s
though Ostrów Tumski is indeed accessed from central patron, at the head of the bridge. Also of note are the
Wrocław by bridge, it is not actually an island. It was until padlocks placed on the bridge by newlyweds to symbolise
the 19th century, but persistent flooding led town planners the unbreakable bond they share going forward in life
to fill in one of the Odra’s tributaries in 1810 (though the together.
64 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Ostrów Tumski
Following ul. Katedralna from there you’ll find the beautiful
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, famous for its THE LAMPLIGHTER
stunning stained glass windows and for its 16th century
altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedral’s main portal is the
Archbishop’s Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum (the
Archbishop lives elsewhere these days). Not to be missed
either is the Church of the Holy Cross, a rare two-level
church with two separate parishes. For those looking for a
sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on crosses, head north
to the city’s Botanical Gardens - one of the finest, most
picturesque, and sadly overlooked, places for spending
time in Wrocław.

CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL

Crossing Tumski Bridge from Wyspa Piasek (Sand Island),
this is the first church you’ll encounter on Ostrów Tumski.
Original construction of this Gothic brick church took nearly
50 years between 1404 and 1452, only to see it destroyed
by two fires, rebuilt, and then 40% obliterated during
Festung Breslau. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the accuracy
of the interior has since been disputed. Though you’ll find
the front doors open in the summer, you won’t get past
the inner gates to see the church in detail, and generally
it is closed to the public.QC-2, ul. Katedralna, tel. (+48)
71 327 13 33.

ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH

This tiny and somewhat irregularly shaped brick church is
all that remains of the Piast dynasty’s 13th-century Royal Lamplighter has to be one of the world’s most
Castle, which once stood on the island. St. Martin’s too, charmingly antiquated, unique and romantic
however, was largely rebuilt in the 15th and 20th centuries. occupations, right up there with town crier, court jester,
Before WWII the church was a centre of Polish culture in a lighthouse keeper, castle drawbridge operator and…
primarily German city. Poles gathered here to hear sermons well, IYP editor, of course. Up until and even throughout
and sing hymns in their own language. The last Polish mass the 19th century, when candle or gas streetlamps were
under Nazi oppression was held here in 1939. A plaque still the norm, lamplighter was a prolific and well-
outside reads in part, “We are Poles... A Pole is a brother to a respected job. In those pre-Edison days it was the
Pole... Poland is our mother, we cannot speak badly of our lamplighter’s job to go around town at dusk igniting a
mother.” Outside St. Martin’s stands a massive monument city’s streetlamps, and then extinguishing them again
to Pope John Paul II, placed here in 1986.QC-2, ul. Św. at dawn; while on patrol, the lamplighter often served a
Marcina. Open only during mass (Sundays at 10:00). dual role as town watchman. Today having a degree in
lamplighting won’t do much for your CV; in fact, to our
CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS / knowledge, Wrocław is one of only two cities in Europe
ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S that still employs a lamplighter (the other being Brest,
One of Ostrów Tumski’s most beautiful and iconic structures, Belarus). The first gas lantern was lit in Wrocław in 1846
thanks to a 70m steeple and impressive entry staircase, this and gas streetlamps were common throughout the city
curious sanctuary is actually two churches in one. Split over even after the war and up until the 1960s when they
two levels, the building comprises the shorter windows were replaced in the Old Town. Fortunately those on
of the Church of St. Bartholomew beneath the soaring Ostrów Tumski – Wrocław’s Cathedral Island – survived
windows of the upper level Church of the Holy Cross. The modernisation and the tradition of the Wrocław
first two-storey church in Silesia, and one of only a few in all lamplighter is carried on to this day. 365 days a year this
of Europe, the church was completed in 1295 as an act of gentleman can be seen at dusk in his unique cape and
reconciliation ending a long dispute between Duke Henry top hat lighting the 103 gas lamps in the district. With
IV and Bishop Thomas II. For centuries the sarcophagus a butane cartridge discreetly hidden under his cloak,
of Henry IV was housed in the upper Church of the Holy the lamplighter uses a pole to ignite the lamps and a
Cross, however today it can be seen on display in the hook attachment to extinguish them each morning.
National Museum. Standing outside the church is a large Catching him in the jolly act is not only easy to do if
sculpture of John of Nepomuk dating from 1732.QC-2, you’re exploring the area in the evening, but also a
Plac Kościelny, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74. Currently closed prerequisite for camera-wielding tourists.
to the public for renovations.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 65
 Ostrów Tumski
CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST
One of Wrocław’s most enduring icons, the elegant double-
spires of this Gothic building stands like a sentinels at the
end of ul. Katedralna, and its elaborate portal one of the
most valuable medieval artefacts in Wrocław. What we see
today is in fact the fourth church to be built on this site. When
construction began in 1244, this was the first brick building in
Poland. Cathedral-building being what it is, work continued
for five more centuries. The centrepiece of the rich, Gothic
interior is the altarpiece, painted in Lublin in 1522, showing
the Virgin Mary having a nap. You’ll also see the largest organ
in Poland, which prior to the war was also the largest in the
world. The real highlight of the Cathedral, however, is the
panoramic view from one of its towers, which can be yours
for 5zł during the warm months (weather dependent); unlike
the arduous climbs required for Wrocław’s other church
towers, here an elevator takes you to the top where you’ll
find a small exhibition in addition to the wonderful views.
QD-2, Pl. Katedralny 18, tel. (+48) 71 322 25 74, www.
katedra.archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:45 - 17:30, Sun
14:00 - 16:00, No visiting during mass please.

ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM
To the right of the Cathedral is the stunning Archdiocese
Museum, a do-it-yourself museum that throws rooms full
of religious art at you and you’re left to decide for yourself
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist © efektstudio80, Dollar Photo Club
what to make of it. Much of the art is recent - the work
of local religious orders, but the largest room is filled
with invaluable medieval works from around Poland. Art
‘POLISH VENICE’? historians will no doubt find plenty of interest.QD-2, Pl.
Katedralny 16, tel. (+48) 71 327 11 78, www.muzeum.
Built upon twelve islands the city of Wrocław is archidiecezja.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.
surrounded by rivers and canals. No-one seems to agree Admission 10zł. N
on an exact number, but you’ll find approximately 130
bridges within the city boundaries, a figure that only BOTANICAL GARDEN
four other European cities can beat (Hamburg, Venice, To complete a thorough tour of Ostrów Tumski you should
Amsterdam and St. Petersburg). not miss the charming Botanical Gardens. The gardens
Though not Wrocław’s most beautiful bridge began life as a scientific pursuit, but have become a
(that honour arguably goes to Most Tumski - the favourite retreat for Wrocław’s residents. The garden was
pedestrianised, padlock-covered bridge leading into built from 1811 to 1816 on the riverbed where the Odra
Ostrów Tumski, C-2), the daddy of them all has to be once flowed around Ostrów Tumski. The grounds include
Most Grunwaldzki (H-3) - Poland’s longest suspension a huge diversity of plant life, aquariums, sculptures, a plant
bridge at 112 metres. Completed in 1910 and opened shop and cafe, and a large pond with picturesque bridges.
by Emperor Wilhelm II himself, according to local legend On some days your peace and quiet could be marred by
the chief engineer committed suicide on the eve of its noisy groups of schoolkids, but the beautiful manicured
unveiling, convinced that the structure would collapse. landscapes include enough nooks and crannies that you
should have no trouble forgetting you’re in the centre of a
big city. Highly recommended.QD-2, ul. Sienkiewicza 23,
tel. (+48) 71 322 59 57, www.ogrodbotaniczny.wroclaw.
pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00 in September. From October
garden will be open 08:00 - 17:00 and will stay open
through November, weather permitting. Admission
15/5zł. UN

Explore more of
Ostrów Tumski online:
View from the tower of Wrocław Cathedral.
© Michał Ludwiczak/istockphoto.com wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

66 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

 Wrocław’s Gnomes
After the eventual fall of communism in Poland, gnomes
remained a symbol of Wrocław, repurposed by the new
government to be a tribute to the Orange Movement, as
well as playful, family-friendly ambassadors of the city.

The first gnome statuette was Papa Krasnal (the largest

of his progeny), who was placed on the corner of ul.
Świdnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego (A-4), where Orange
Alternative demonstrations often took place, to celebrate
the history of the Orange Alternative in 2001. Things really
took off in 2005, however, when local artist Tomasz Moczek
- a graduate of the Wrocław Academy of Fine Arts - was
commissioned by Wrocław City Council to create five more
gnomes. The little devils proved so popular that envious
local businesses quickly got in on the game by contracting
other local artists to produce more, and in almost no time
Photo by Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,
at all gnomes had proliferated around Wrocław to the point
Muncipality of Wrocław
that they now constitute a veritable ‘sub-population’ of the
One of Wrocław’s most popular, memorable and iconic city. The little buggers are currently rumoured to be running
attractions is not a cathedral, castle or monument, but rampant to the score of over 300(!), making it literally
a legion of little people: gnomes, or ‘krasnale’ (in local impossible for us to try and keep track of them, or for visitors
parlance), to be precise. In Wrocław’s city centre these to try to find all of them on their own. Seeing how many
merry munchkins are simply ubiquitous - dotting doorways, gnomes you can spot while you’re in Wrocław, however, is
alleyways and street corners; constantly underfoot but an incredibly fun alternative to traditional sightseeing, and a
only seen by the observant. You may well overlook the great way to keep the kids involved while tramping around
first dozen or so that cross your path, but inevitably - town. To help you out we’ve included 25 of our favourite
and often literally - you will stumble upon these popular gnomes on our website, with the exact address and GPS
local residents. Keep your eyes peeled and you’re bound coordinates of their location, which means you can use In
to notice the little fellas engaged in a variety of activities Your Pocket’s mobile platform (m.inyourpocket.com)
about town - from guarding public space to passed-out on your smart phone to easily find some of the city’s
drunk. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, and the object most popular gnomes. [Those with an iPhone can also do
of more photos than the towering Cathedral, these prolific the same with our free mobile application.]
pranksters have become the unlikely symbol of one of PL’s
most picturesque cities. If that’s not enough, you can also pick up a special map
from tourist information (Rynek 14, A-3) showing where to
Although it sounds like little more than a twee tourist find 30 of the most centrally located gnomes, and there is
gimmick, Wrocław’s gnomes actually have a direct even a special, dual-language (Polish and English) website
correlation to the political climate of the 1980s. Under dedicated to Wrocław’s gnomes - www.krasnale.pl
communism gnomes became the absurdist calling card - where you can find their history, photos and other
of the ‘Orange Alternative’ - an underground protest information, including downloadable maps of their various
movement that used absurdity and nonsense to stage locations. Spend an afternoon as a gnome-watcher and see
peaceful, yet subversive protests. Armed with paint cans how many of these mischievous miscreants you can spot as
and led by Waldemar ‘Major’ Fydrych, an artist and you stroll around town. Happy hunting!
student at Wrocław University, the group started out by
ridiculing the establishment’s attempts to censor public
space. During communism, any anti-establishment graffiti
or public art was quickly painted over by the militia; upon
seeing fresh daubs of paint, the pranksters of the Orange
Alternative quickly painted over them yet again...with
gnomes. As the cheeky movement gained popularity,
gnomes began to appear in demonstrations as well, with
Major Fydrych handing out iconic peaked orange gnome
hats to passing pedestrians and leading nonsensical
marches for gnomes’ rights. The resulting arrests of orange-
clad and ridiculous-looking gnomes, plus dozens of
bystanders detained for also wearing red, often made the
nightly news and succeeded in making the authorities look
idiotic. The movement caught on across the country, and Marcin Wiktorski, courtesy of City Promotion Office,
soon gnomes were appearing in other major cities as well. Muncipality of Wrocław

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 67

 Centennial Hall & Parks

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Once you’ve finished ogling the Old Town and Ostrów surrounding Szczynicki Park and the Centennial Exhibition
Tumski, there’s one more district of this fine city that visitors Complex, including Wrocław’s only UNESCO site, the
will be poorer heading home without having seen. Just country’s oldest zoo, the Japanese Garden and the city’s
east of the city centre lie a clutch of outdoor attractions latest ‘tell-me-that-you-love-me’ tourist lure, the Pergola
Fountain. Intended as a city showpiece since its creation,
the area east of the Odra long held a somewhat lukewarm
GETTING THERE public standing thanks to dubious historical connotations
and debatable aesthetic appeal; however recent
renovations, the UNESCO nod and the addition of the
magnificent multimedia fountain (operating May-October)
have made it a favourite place of locals and cemented its
place as a Wrocław must-see.

WROCŁAW ZOO
Cross the picturesque Zwierzyniecki Bridge and you find
yourself immediately alongside the cagey enclosure of
the Wrocław Zoological Gardens. A product of the city’s
The easiest way to reach the Centennial Exhibition dynamic development in the late 19th century, Wrocław’s
Complex is via public transport. Tram 10 can be caught zoo dates back to 1865 (celebrating 150 years in 2015!) and
from the ‘Rynek,’ ‘Świdnicka’ and ‘Galeria Dominikańska’ became the oldest in the country when Poland inherited it
stops, or take buses 145 or 146 east from the train after World War II. Suffering severe wartime damage, many
station, getting off at ‘Hala Stulecia.’ The area is also of the zoo’s elegant historic buildings were reconstructed
easily accessible by car, with parking available right in and can be found in the southern part of the park; also don’t
front of Centennial Hall. miss the splendid Soviet-era neon sign at the entrance.
CENTENNIAL HALL PARKING Brand-new to the zoo is the impressive African aquarium
Above- and underground ground guarded parking for complex - or ‘Afrykarium’ - three levels of exhibits
nearly 800 passenger cars and 20 buses, right in front focussed on the diverse water environments of Africa,
of Centennial Hall, within easy walking distance of the including hippos, sharks, manatees, crocodiles, penguins
Zoo, Wrocław Fountain and Japanese Gardens.QI-4, (in Africa? Who knew?) and more. With over 12,000 critters
ul. Wystawowa 1 (entrance from ul. Kopernika), tel. of some 1,100 different species, the zoo is one of Wrocław’s
(+48) 71 346 14 22, www.parkinghalastulecia.pl. most visited attractions (don’t be surprised by long entry
queues on sunny weekends) and also provides foreigners
68 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Centennial Hall & Parks
with an opportunity to pick up a few phrases from one of in becoming heroes of the enormous media spectacle. In
the only Polish-speaking macaws in the world.QI-4, ul. 1964, the spire was reduced by 10 metres for safety reasons.
Wróblewskiego 1-5, tel. (+48) 71 348 30 24, www.zoo. During Martial Law, another daredevil climbed the tower
wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. and attached a Solidarity flag to its zenith. Today the ugly
From December 09:00 - 16:00. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. ribbed structure continues to stand outside Centennial Hall
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 40/30zł. and is probably one of the tallest pieces of useless bolted
A family ticket (valid for up to 2 adults, 3 kids) is also metal in the world.QI-4, Hala Stulecia, ul. Wystawowa 1.
available for 120zł (Mon 80zł).
CENTENNIAL HALL & DISCOVERY CENTRE
IGLICA (SPIRE) With Wrocław developing rapidly in the late 19th century
Leaving the animal house antics of the zoo, turn onto ulica it was determined that the city required an exhibition hall
Wystawowa (Exhibition Street) and you’ll soon find yourself and the hundred year anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat
staring down the Centennial Hall promenade, including at the Battle of Leipzig (1813) was deemed a timely
the ivy-covered columns leading to the towering ‘Iglica’ occasion for an expensive, over-the-top exhibition hall
monument and with monolithic Centennial Hall behind it. that would figuratively flex the architectural muscle of the
The iconic 96 metre tall steel spire was erected on the German Nation. Max Berg, who had been appointed as
Centennial Hall exhibition grounds in 1948 as part of the official city architect in 1909, quickly set about designing
propagandic ‘Recovered Territories Exhibition.’ Meant to his career-piece, and (what-do-ya-know?) his proposal
symbolise the soaring achievements of the country’s newly was chosen over 42 others by city council despite abject
acquired western territories since they were ‘returned’ to objection from almost everyone who laid eyes on the
Communist Poland, like many of the Party’s ideas, this one design, which resembled a colossal concrete hatbox and
quickly went wrong. Originally 106 metres, Iglica’s peak would cost an enormous 1.9 million Reichmarks. Teaming
was adorned with a spinning contraption of mirrors which with eminent architect Hans Poelzig, the two personally
would create a dazzling ‘umbrella of light’ at night. The oversaw the project which was completed in 1913 and has
apparatus was ominously struck by lightning only hours endured to become hailed as one of the most important
after completion with much of it crashing to the ground architectural monuments of the early 20th century. With
in dazzling catastrophe; the remaining dangling bits posed an inner diameter of 69 metres, a height of 42 metres and
quite a hazard to the expected thousands who would a 10,000 person capacity, the Jahrhunderthalle (as it was
attend the exhibition. To the rescue came two college then called) became the highest structure of its type in the
students who were part of a climbing club and volunteered world; that type being a gigantic multi-purpose structure
to dismantle the top of the structure for free after the of radial reinforced concrete ribs unlike anything the world
military proved unable to sort the situation due to the had ever seen. Though routinely left off lists of the world’s
inclement weather. Scaling the Iglica took 24 hours and 15 most attractive buildings, one thing is undeniable: the
minutes, dismantling it another six, but the boys succeeded Centennial Hall is an engineering marvel.
Building a structure of such size out of steel and concrete
was both revolutionary and extremely daring; in fact the
workers that helped build the behemoth were afraid to
go inside, so certain were they of its eventual collapse. On
the contrary, the Centennial Hall has inexplicably survived
two world wars and hosted countless large scale events
including monumental operas, concerts and sporting
events. It was here that Adolf Hitler held rallies and Pope
John Paul II held services during his famous visit in 1997.
Renamed ‘Hala Ludowa’ (the People’s Hall) following World
War II, the structure and surrounding grounds were the site
of the People’s Republic of Poland’s ‘Recovered Territories
Exhibition’ - the most expensive and publicised propaganda
event in the history of Poland. Added to the UNESCO World
Heritage List in 2006, until its total renovation in 2010,
the Centennial Hall complex hadn’t really lived up to its
reputation for locals and tourists alike, with busloads of the
latter often standing in front of the concrete monstrosity
wondering how difficult it would be to get the pants
they’re wearing to qualification for the once exclusive list.
However, that’s no longer the case; Centennial Hall has been
scrubbed clean and features an interior exhibit that not only
transforms the structure from a dubious photo-op to a bona
fide tourist attraction, but also does much to explain and
justify its reputation as a modern architectural masterpiece.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 69
 Centennial Hall & Parks
Known as the Discovery Centre (Centrum Poznawcze), Wrocław Fountain even has pyrotechnic capabilities with
this exhibition gives visitors an overview of Centennial fireworks and lasers implausibly shooting out of the large
Hall’s construction, its history and its place in the pantheon semicircle basin next to Centennial Hall. The result is one
of modern architecture. Most of the information is of the most dazzling, delightful displays of light, sound
conveyed via nifty touch-screen displays covering topics and water you’ll ever see; in fact only a few such fountains
as varied as Breslau architects, skyscrapers, various world exist in the world (although those show-stealing jerks in
exhibitions, Polish UNESCO sites, and a lot more related Warsaw recently got themselves one). Certainly nothing
to architecture and Wrocław specifically. In addition to the puts a stamp on the end of communism like indulging
permanent exhibit, Discovery Centre includes a gallery for in some outrageously expensive gadgetry; the cost of
temporary exhibitions and the option of a light and sound running this show on a regular basis must be enormous,
show under the dome. Using video-mapping technology, but you can see it for free from May until the end of
the dome of the Hall comes to life with a stunningly October (weather permitting). The fountain comes to life
complex light show that emphasises the uniqueness of hourly starting from 10:00 (the timing of the last show
the structure and is creatively choreographed to original changes each month), and performances vary from 3.5 to
music. Between the light show, the computerised displays 18 minutes with a short or long programme of classical
of the permanent exhibit and the adjacent Wrocław music (Wagner, Beethoven), ‘modern’ music (Apocalyptica,
Fountain - there is some serious multimedia wizardry in Faith No More), or ‘pop’ music (Daft Punk, Madonna). The
this corner of town that is sure to delight architect buffs real stunners, however, happen just after dark on Fri, Sat
and technophiles alike. Despite its size (the permanent and Sun, when the full functionality of the fountain is on
exhibition only covers two small rooms), there is much to display, including lights. View the daily schedule in detail
learn and discover, so allot almost two hours for your visit. (and in English!) online.QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, www.
QI-4, ul. Wystawowa 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 51 50, www. wroclawskafontanna.pl.
halastulecia.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
From November 09:00 - 17:00. Closed the first Monday JAPANESE GARDEN
of every month. Admission 12/9zł, permanent exhibit
plus gallery 14/11zł, permanent exhibit plus gallery and
light show 19/15zł.

WROCŁAW FOUNTAIN
Just left of Centennial Hall’s main entrance you’ll find the
‘Pergola’ - a colossal, semi-circular, ivy-covered colonnade
winding around one of the city’s most popular attractions
- the multimedia fountain. Unveiled in June 2009, in
honour of the 20th anniversary of the first free elections
in post-war Poland, Wrocław’s fountain projects water
up to 40 metres high through an array of 300 different
nozzles which have the ability to rotate, gyrate, pulse
and even create a 700 square metre screen of water on
which animated projections can be displayed; all the while
music orchestrates the show through the park’s speakers.
Equipped with 800 lights of varying size and strength, the
© satori | dollar photo club
Just north of Centennial Hall behind the ‘pergola,’ the
Japanese Garden was established in 1913 as part of the
Artistic Gardening Exhibition which accompanied the
centennial celebrations and was originally the work of
Count Fritz von Hochberg and Mankichi Arai. Despite its
own share of devastation, including the particularly cruel
flood of 1997 which occurred only two months after a
long restoration project (thanks in part to the generosity
of the Japanese Embassy in Warsaw), the arrangement of
the garden and its system of small streams are part of its
over one hundred year old legacy. Two symbolic water
cascades which merge into one large pond comprise the
main attractions of these small, but exquisitely manicured
gardens - one of the most tranquil escapes in the city.QI-4,
ul. Mickiewicza (Park Szczytnicki). Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed From November. Admission 4/2zł.
70 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Centennial Hall & Parks
SZCZYTNICKI PARK
A stroll away from the colonnades of the pond area puts you
in Szczytnicki Park, the oldest and largest recreation space
in the city. Covering 115 hectares and laid out in 1785, the
once well-groomed former estate park suffered devastation
during the Napoleonic Wars and WWII and today largely
resembles a natural landscape within the city borders. While
there, keep your eyes peeled for the small Church of St.
John of Nepomuk - a marvellous 14th century wooden
church moved to the park from the Opole region and
miraculously undamaged during the war.QI-3/4.

RECOVERED TERRITORIES
In 1948, Wrocław’s Centennial Hall played host to the largest,
most organised propaganda event in Poland’s history: The
Photo courtesy of Museum of Architecture
Recovered Territories Exhibition. An official term coined
by Poland’s post-war communist authorities, the ‘recovered In concert with the Recovered Territories Exhibition, the
territories’ denoted those lands re-appropriated to Poland ‘International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence
as compensation for territorial losses in the east which had of Peace’ was organised in August 1948 with much the
been absorbed by the Soviet Union. The Party’s underlying same propagandist aims - international luminaries were
aim was to construe the country’s new western territorial invited based on their perceived susceptibility to the
acquisitions – of which Wrocław (formerly ‘Breslau’) was the Soviet message. In all, high-profile representatives of
largest city - as belonging to a Polish Piast tradition that 46 countries attended the Congress including Graham
dated to medieval times; centuries of German presence in Greene, Bertolt Brecht and Pablo Picasso, who was flown
Silesia was explained as evidence of unyielding German in on a special plane provided by the People’s Republic and
aggression, and Poland’s repossession of the resource- was apparently so charmed by the display of Polish folk
rich region, which had repeatedly fed the German war costumes that he bought one to take home. However, not
machine, would ensure world peace in the future. Poland’s everyone in attendance was endeared; in fact some guests
post-war generation was actually educated to believe were downright outraged and the Congress became a
that the Potsdam Agreement had returned the country well-publicised scandal. Constantly searched and hounded
to its rightful boundaries and 1948’s Recovered Territories by Secret Service agents, many of the ‘intellectuals’ found
Exhibition aimed to propagate the same message to a blatantly doctored message from Albert Einstein and
everyone in attendance. several speeches condemning western culture all too
transparent; some left the conference while others took
Originally intended to be held in Poznań, one look at their objections to the press. Despite being a mockery,
Wrocław’s Centennial Hall must have made Poland’s however, in the end the resolution drafted by the Congress
communist leaders change their minds; a more glorious which nonsensically condemned the “war preparations of
piece of grey concrete could not have been dreamed a handful of greedy war profiteers in Europe and America
up by even the Soviet Union’s best-rinsed brains and the who have adopted the ideas of racial superiority from
monumental structure was immediately renamed ‘People’s fascism…” went unsigned by only 20 of the 357 gathered
Hall’ (Hala Ludowa). The preparation of the exhibition participants, and the Party was well-pleased with itself.
centre included the calamitous construction of the Iglica
Spire, as well as 48 pavilions portraying the glory of life in
Silesia since it had been ‘polonised’: among them were a
barn full of cows where guests were invited to drink fresh
milk, and a long conveyor belt around which miners from
Wałbrzych pretended to produce coal. Hala Ludowa’s
main exhibition space was reserved for the real heroes of
the People’s Republic: the workers. Here 200 photos and
biographies presented the region’s super socialist achievers,
among them Wincenty Hajduk - a miner extraordinaire
whose efficiency was 571% above his peers, and Legnica’s
Maria Lewin who apparently could knit at +401%. All told,
the exhibition cost a whopping 700 million PLN and was
visited by 1.5 million people during its run from July 21st to
the end of October 1948; workers across the country were
even given days off specifically for organised trips to visit
the exhibition. Photo courtesy of Museum of Architecture

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 71

 Jewish Wrocław

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Wrocław’s Jewish community is one of the oldest in today’s a gradual transition from tracing the past to plotting the
Poland, dating back to the 12th century when the city was future which culminated in May 2010 with the symbolic
an important trade centre along the Amber Road. Though reopening of the White Stork Synagogue.
consistently confronted with persecution, Jews have
steadily played a role in the development of the city. By NEW JEWISH CEMETERY
the end of the 19th century, in fact, the Jewish community Located northwest of the centre, the New Jewish Cemetery
was so well integrated into Breslau society that many Jews was founded in 1902 when the Ślężna Street cemetery
had achieved leading positions in academic and scientific became too small, and is still in use by Wrocław’s Jewish
circles; at the time, these men were not considered any community today. That hasn’t saved it from the ravages of
less German than they were Jewish. Breslau (as it was time however, and like the cemetery it succeeded, it stands
then known) possessed the second largest synagogue in in sharp contrast to the well-kept Catholic cemeteries
Germany and its Jewish community was the third largest in across Poland. Comprising 11 hectares and approximately
the country with numbers that had risen to 30,000 by the 8,000 graves, this is the fifth largest Jewish cemetery
time Hitler came to power. in Poland, and as such carries an even more powerful
aura of secret beauty among its maze of ivy-coved
It doesn’t require much detail from us to know what headstones and crumbling vaults. Likewise registered as
befell Breslau’s wartime Jewish population. The city’s an historical monument for its rich diversity of aesthetic
once magnificent main synagogue - torched on and architectural styles, the most noteworthy tomb here
Kristallnacht (November 9, 1938) - says enough, with is dedicated to the Jewish soldiers of the German Army
only a small memorial remembering where it once who fought and died in WWI; their 432 names are etched
stood at ul. Łąkowa 6 (A-4). What less people are aware into the top of the monument. The cemetery is currently
of is that after the war when German Breslau became the subject of slow renovation work and is only open
Polish Wrocław, the city’s Jewish population actually to the public from mid-April to mid-November, on
increased dramatically beyond its pre-war levels as the Wednesdays (14:00 - 17:00) and Sundays (09:00 - 13:00),
city accepted some 70,000 Jews displaced by the war - with parts of the cemetery cordoned off altogether. Still,
many from the Soviet Union. Ironically, Wrocław’s Jewish about 80% (this place is huge, remember) is accessible,
population reached its peak immediately after WWII; with about 50% having already undergone restoration. We
however, the anti-minority politics of the Soviet Union advise that you contact the Jewish Information Centre / CIŻ
slowly shrank their numbers until they had been forced Cafe for updated information. To get there catch trams 10,
out of Poland completely by 1968. Since the fall of the 33, 20 or 3 from Pl.Jana Pawła II and get off at ‘DH Astra;’ it’s
Soviet Union that number has been resurgent again and about a 12min ride.Qul. Lotnicza 51 (Fabryczna), www.
today there are some 1,000 Jews living in Wrocław, part of wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Admission 8zł.
72 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Jewish Wrocław
OLD JEWISH CEMETERY
Established in 1856, this 4.6 hectare cemetery is perhaps
the most well-preserved testament to the former strength
of Breslau’s pre-war Jewish community, with over 1200
gravestones. Closed in 1942, the cemetery quickly fell into
deep neglect: in 1945 it was turned into a fortress by the
Nazis and saw fierce fighting as evidenced by the eerie
bullet holes in many of the gravestones. Preservation began
in the 1970s and in 1991 it was opened as the Museum of
Jewish Cemetery Art in tribute to the craftsmanship of its
sepulchral art. Indeed the beauty and diversity of styles
and symbols on display is perhaps unmatched anywhere.
Many noteworthy figures are buried here, including the
renowned biologist Ferdinand Cohn, the historian Heinrich
Graetz (author of the first complete history of the Jews),
Clara Immerwahl (first female PhD student at the University was here that members of the Jewish community were
of Breslau, and wife of Fritz Haber, who committed suicide rounded up for deployment to the death camps during
in objection to her husband’s work developing chemical WWII. Badly damaged, but not set ablaze (thanks only
warfare), Ferdinand Lassalle (founder and leader of the to its proximity to residential buildings), the synagogue
first labour party in Germany, killed in a duel), and the was literally left to rot after the war, before the Jewish
parents of Edith Stein; using old records some of their community was finally able to recover it from the
tombstones are slowly being restored. However, despite Polish government in 1996 and initiate restoration. Re-
these modest efforts the Ślężna Street Cemetery remains opened in May 2010, the synagogue now serves as a
a completely mysterious and evocative sanctuary of worship space, cultural centre and branch of the Jewish
decaying vine-covered monuments, the broken pieces of Information Centre, with a new multi-functional hall in
which are stacked against each other, giving shelter to stray the synagogue’s basement and two exhibition spaces on
cats and shade to wildflowers. Well worth a visit, a highly the balconies. One houses a permanent exhibition about
informative accompanying booklet (in Polish, English or the History of Jews in Wrocław and Lower Silesia, while
German) makes it even more so, despite being overpriced the second balcony is for temporary exhibitions. Guided
at 15zł.QE/F-7, ul. Ślężna 37/39, tel. (+48) 71 791 59 04, tours takes place every Sunday at 11:00 in Polish (5/10zł)
www.mmw.pl. Open 09:00 till dusk. Admission 10/7zł, and at 13:00 in (10zł).QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 7, tel. (+48)
Thu free. 71 787 39 02, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00
- 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 -16:00. Closed Sat.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing.

TOURS & INFORMATION

CIŻ CAFE
After renovations, the Jewish Information Centre has
reopened as CIŻ Cafe - a kosher coffeehouse, bookshop
and tourist info centre. In addition to being a new
venue for Jewish-related lectures, workshops and other
events, this outfit also arranges Jewish walking tours of
Wrocław. While you’re there enjoy coffee, tea, cakes and
muffins.QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 9, tel. (+48) 71 787 39
02, www.wroclaw.jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Fri 09:00 until dusk. Closed Sat. GBW
THE WHITE STORK SYNAGOGUE THE BENTE KAHAN FOUNDATION
The only synagogue in Wrocław to escape the torches of Founded in 2006 to accomplish the renovation of
Kristallnacht, the White Stork was built in 1829, taking its the Synagogue, this outfit organises the monthly
name from the inn that once stood in its place. Following events that take place there, including exhibitions,
the design of prominent German architect Karl Ferdinand film screenings, workshops, lectures, language
Langhans, it is ironically considered a sterling example courses, concerts, theatre performances and more.
of 18th century Protestant sacral art. Discreetly hidden For info about Jewish events in Wrocław, start here.
from view in a courtyard between ul. Antoniego and QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71 782 81 23,
ul. Włodkowica, today the surrounding grounds are full www.fbk.org.pl.
of beer gardens, bohemians and tourists; however it
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 73
 Leisure

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Known as one of Poland’s greenest cities, Wrocław offers LE MANS

plenty of recreation opportunities on top of its great This is an awesome 850m long go-kart track inside
architecture, nightlife and culture. With a scenic location Wrocław’s immaculate football stadium. Offering 30 karts
on the Odra River and its many tributaries, the city boasts for adults and 12 for kids, if you can prove it’s your birthday
copious kilometres of river boulevards and bike lanes, as they’ll even give you an 8 minute go for free. Getting
well as kayak rentals and river cruises in summer. Locals there is easy via tram 31, getting off at ‘Stadion Wrocław
flock to the Botanical Gardens (p.66) and Japanese (Królewiecka).’ A second, but shorter 450m track at ul.
Gardens (p.70) when the sun is out, and there are plenty Czekoladowa 5-22 (Bielany Wrocławskie) is also open every
of city-centre public parks to relax in from Ostrów Tumski day 10:00 - 22:00.QAl. Śląska 1, tel. (+48) 800 90 00 00,
(p.64) to Partisan Hill (p.61). The Municipal Swimming www.tornastadionie.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. 10 minutes
Pools are a hidden gem and the Water Park is one of the 25-32zł, 22 mins 50-64zł, 35 mins 75-96zł, 65 mins 140zł.
best in the country. Football fans also have the chance to
see one of Poland’s biggest clubs - Śląsk Wrocław - in the
new state-of-the-art Wrocław Stadium. Whatever your BIKE RENTAL
interest, the area has something to offer you, so use the BIKE & SCOOTER RENTAL
listings below to stay active in every season. This bike rental service cooperates with the tourist information
office on the market square where they keep a small corral of
bikes, which is why we list their address (inquire inside); but
ADRENALINE SPORTS actually they’ll deliver a bike or motorised scooter (think Vespa)
ACTIVE POLAND straight to your hotel, or wherever you want - just call the
Active Poland organises group activities including go- number listed here. Prices are 30zł for up to 3 hours or 60zł/day;
karting, paintball, shooting, rafting, hovercraft rides, scooters 130zł/day only. Accompanying audioguides of the
kayaking and naughtier evenings out for the boys.QB-4, ul. main tourist sights in Wrocław are also available in 7 languages
Kazimierza Wielkiego 87, tel. (+48) 71 344 51 51, www. for 20zł.QA-3, Rynek 14 (Tourist Information), tel. (+48) 534
activepoland.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 10 07 80, www.bikerentalwroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Bikes and Scooters available for rent until October 1.
KWATERA GŁÓWNA
Organised laser tag in a specially designed maze arena for BIKE CAFE
2-10 person groups. Reservations recommended.QC-1, During the spring/summer, Bike Cafe backs up their talk
ul. Sienkiewicza 8a, tel. (+48) 531 63 80 00, www. by being one of the most reliable places in Wrocław for
kwateraglowna.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. 40zł per person getting a pair of wheels under you. And the bikes aren’t all
per hour. identical either, but a random assortment of vintage urban
74 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Leisure
bikes in good working condition that don’t scream “I’m a
tourist!” when you take them for a cruise. A 100zł deposit
is required and prices are 7zł/hr, or 40zł/day Mon-Thu; 8zł/
hr, or 50zł/day weekends.QF-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 8, tel.
(+48) 71 346 15 34. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

BOWLING & BILLIARDS

SEZAM
Just off the main square, this billiards bar covers 600m2
with 17 professional pool tables, one professional snooker
table and plenty of beer and spirits.QB-3, ul. Kuźnicza
10, tel. (+48) 71 344 85 46, www.sezambilard.pl. Open
10:00 - 24:00. 10-26zł/h.

SKYBOWLING
Full of shiny surfaces, planetary paintings and a unique
colour changing ceiling, this enormous, new state-of-the-
art bowling alley on the 2nd floor of Sky Tower features 24
lanes, plus a restaurant/bar and VIP room. Pricing is quite
complex and depends on the time of day and day of the
week, ranging from 20zł Monday mornings to 90zł Friday
nights per lane for an hour of play (shoe rental included).
QE-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 73-95 (Sky Tower), tel.
(+48) 71 712 83 33, www.skybowling.pl. Open 08:00 -
24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES
BOBOLANDIA
Located just north of the city centre, Bobolandia is the largest
family amusement centre in Poland, offering 3000 square
metres of fun and attractions. Pretty much every kid’s dream,
this family funhouse includes all kinds of plush and inflatable
play areas and jungle gyms, trampolines, ball pits, slides,
sandboxes and more, plus pool tables, air hockey and arcade
games. There’s also a restaurant. As you could probably
spend all day here (and your child will no doubt want to),
tickets are sold at a flat day rate of 29zł per kid on weekdays
(19zł if you arrive after 17:00), 32zł per kid on weekends (21zł
after 17:00). The nice part is adults only pay 5zł and are likely
to have a great time also.Qul. Jana Długosza 59-75 (Psie
Pole), tel. (+48) 71 793 77 44, www.bobolandia.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

SPA & BEAUTY

CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE
Improve blood and limphatic circulation, release physical
and mental tension, strengthen the immune system,
improve joint flexibility and remove toxins from your body
with an authentic Thai massage, performed solely by
highly qualified Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple
in Bangkok. The offer includes classical Thai massage,
herbal compresses, oil massages, feet and legs reflexology,
back, shoulder and head massages, and more. Note that
reception is only open until 20:00.QA-3, ul. Ruska 35, tel.
(+48) 667 75 53 87, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open 12:00 -
22:00. Massages 120-300zł.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 75
 Leisure
MONOPOL SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE
BOAT RENTAL Descend beneath the grandeur of the Monopol hotel to
& RIVER CRUISES find one of the city’s premier spa and wellness centres
including a gym, counter-current swimming pool, fountain
FUNBOAT and jacuzzi, dry sauna, aromatherapy steam bath and salt
This slick little catamaran not only offers 40min/25zł and iodine cave. Massages, face and body treatments are
sightseeing cruises departing from Przystań also available.QA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2 (Monopol
Uniwersytecka (B-2) every hour on the hour, but it’s also Hotel), tel. (+48) 71 772 37 50, www.monopolwroclaw.
available for private hire, which we’re telling you now is hotel.com.pl. Spa open 09:00 - 21:00; Wellness Centre
a winning idea for company parties, stag groups, or any 06:00 - 22:00.
group of up to 14 people. Decked out in leather sofas,
furnishings include a BBQ grill on the sun deck, a bar with
a fridge, karaoke machine, TV and wifi. It’s also cleared to
SWIMMING
poodle around after dark, so put the party lights on and MUNICIPAL SWIMMING POOLS
turn the music up. Kind of like a stretch limo on the water, This gorgeous complex in the very centre of Wrocław
Roger Waters rented it out when he was in town; you housed the city municipal baths built between 1895-
want to be like Roger Waters, don’t you?QB-2, Przystań 97. Over one hundred years later, today it maintains its
Uniwersytecka, tel. (+48) 885 50 25 02, www.funboat. function as a therapeutic swimming complex, and is one
pl. Available for rent through the end of October. of Wrocław’s most important architectural monuments
Prices for private hire: Sun - Thurs 400zł for 1 hour, from the 19th century (included on the National Registry
300zł for each additional hour. Fri, Sat 500zł for 1 hour, of Historic Monuments). A beauty from the outside, the
900zł for 2 hours, each additional hour 300zł. interior ornamentation of the four pool complex includes
sculpted sandstone, stained-glass windows, artistic ceramic
PASSENGER CRUISES tiles, polychromatic vaulted ceilings, two-level arcades and
(ŻEGLUGA PASAŻERSKA) colonnades inspired by the ancient hot baths of Rome.
So elaborate are the Odra waterways around Wrocław’s Currently serviced by SPA Centre Wrocław, full spa services
Old Town that this outfit offers an array of river routes are also on hand so if you plan on taking a dip or lying down
from four different harbours aboard five different for a massage in Wrocław, you’d be crazy not to do it here.
vessels. 55, 50 or 40 minute panoramic river cruises are Club and school reservations make it a bit tricky, but the
available leaving from the Przystań Cypel harbour on website regularly updates its posted reservation schedule,
Słodowa Island (B-2), Przystań Kardynalska on Piasek which you’d be wise to check before thonging down to the
Island (C-2), Przystań Zwierzyniecka (ul. Wróblewskiego pool.QB-4, ul. Teatralna 10-12, tel. (+48) 71 341 09 43,
1, I-4), and the Wrocław Zoo (I-5) for the reasonable rate www.spa.wroc.pl. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00,
of 15-23zł (depending on length); note that a minimum Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 15-16.50zł.
of 10-15 people are required to cast off. On Fridays,
Saturdays and Sundays, hour-long evening cruises also WROCŁAW AQUAPARK
depart from Przystań Kardynalska with entertainment; Completed in 2008, Wrocław’s water park is easily one of
tickets 25zł. All vessels are also available for private hire the finest in the country and makes for a nice respite from
with prices negotiated by phone. Kayaks, canoes and the city’s confoundingly complex history and high-minded
other small boats are also available to rent.QC-2, ul. cultural attractions. And it’s probably the only place your
Wróblewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 609 20 08 67, www. kids will tell their friends about from their trip to Wrocław.
statekpasazerski.pl. Boat rental is open till October While the main attractions are surely the indoor and
and day and evening cruises will run through mid- outdoor recreational swimming pools with their water
October but call ahead to be sure. slides (including the most recent addition - a multimedia
slide involving lights and music to distract you as you
SZLAK GONDOLI plummet), wave machines, ‘wild river’ and other wonders,
One of the most clever things you can do on a sunny adults will appreciate the Wellness & Saunarium spa area
day in Wrocław is prepare a picnic, head here and rent with saunas (saunas ladies-only on Tues), massage services
yourself a kayak (14zł/hr), rowing boat (25zł/hr) or and more. Also on hand is a fitness centre, restaurant, cafe,
motorboat (80zł/hr). They also operate four water trams bar and shop, making a trip to the Aqua Park a full day’s
through the tiny canals of the Old Town. These run from outing, just south of the train station. From the city centre
12:00 - 20:00 weekdays and 10:00 - 20:00 weekends you can take trams 8, 9, 15, 31 or 32, and bus numbers
between Zatoka Gondoli (C-3), Wyspa Słodowa (B/C-2) 113, 145, 146 or 612.QF-6, ul. Borowska 99, tel. (+48) 71
and the Zoo (I-5), and tickets cost 15zł for 30min trips, 771 15 11, www.aquapark.wroc.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
25zł for 55min trips.QD-3, ul. Purkyniego 9 (Zatoka Fitness Centre, Wellness & Spa, saunas and sport pool all
Gondoli), tel. (+48) 791 12 28 58/7390 122 858, have independent hours. Check the website for exact
www.gondole.eu. Open from 10:00 till dusk until times. Admission 19/17zł per hour, 60/49zł for a day
the end of October. pass on weekdays; 22/18zł per hour, 67/55zł for a day
pass on weekends.
76 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Shopping

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Retail opportunities have come a long way since the days of OLD HAVANA CIGAR SHOP & LOUNGE
queuing around the corner for the off-chance of buying a This small shop offers hundreds of cigars from Cuba and
crust of bread. Today Wrocław’s shop-fronts are stocked with elsewhere, cutters, fancy ashtrays and other accessories,
everything you’d expect to find in a cosmopolitan metropolis, plus a wide variety of whiskies, rum, wine, port and
with bountiful pedestrian shopping opportunities around the cognacs. The staff is very knowledgeable and happy to
market square, ulica Świdnicka and ulica Oławska. Odrzańska, help you make a decision, or why not stay and sample
Kiełbaśnicza and Mikołaja streets are home to upmarket the selection on-site? Well versed in the finer things in life,
boutiques and galleries, while the popular Jatki (A-2) is known they also have great coffee.QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24, tel.
for its row of artisan galleries and souvenir stalls. For familiar (+48) 790 80 22 81. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
international labels and big brands, look no further than one
of Wrocław’s glistening new shopping malls - there are no less PIWOCZAS
than five comfortably within the city centre. Lastly, don’t miss A convenience store for beer connoisseurs, here you can
visiting Hala Targowa (C-2) for a truly Polish cultural experience deliberate over your decision as long as you like, and take
while catching a bargain. As this is PL, remember most shops as many beers home with you as you can fit under your
close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether. arm (or in your suitcase). There are over 600 choice brews
from Poland and abroad, and they stay open late on the
weekends so you can have a nightcap in your room when
ALCOHOL & TOBACCO the bars wear you out. Second location at ul. Tęczowa 22
You may have noticed that here in PL, it’s a bit of a drinking (E-4).QE-4, ul. Św. Antoniego 27/29, tel. (+48) 506 16 28
culture; more of a national pastime, really, compared to the 42, www.piwoczas.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
country’s success at football. Indeed, nothing says ‘I’ve been - 03:00.
to Poland’ like a suitcase of vodka (a new bride being the
second hottest commodity). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can AMBER & JEWELLERY
make a legitimate claim as the spirit’s primordial homeland. As Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. For
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if it’s centuries amber drew craftsmen, traders and thieves to
not to your taste. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands Central Europe and the Baltic. While the thieves may be
you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison gone, amber and its enthusiasts remain, and today Poland
grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), Żołądkowa is renowned for its craftsmen who handsomely shape the
(herbal stomach liqueur) and Goldwasser with its signature fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery.
gold flakes. Wrocław is also one of the best beer cities in PL, Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic
so don’t miss trying a variety of microbrews before you leave. Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
78 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Shopping
GALERIA SCHUBERT
Located in the Town Hall, World of Amber has an MARKETS
impressive and reasonably priced array of amber-themed
jewellery and pieces. For those less keen on amber, they HALA TARGOWA
also offer other precious stones and metals and took
a page out of the Bohemian book with a small section
of crystal-ware. If amber is on your Wroclaw to-do list,
Schubert will do nicely without killing your travel budget
or drawing you away from the heart of the city.QB-3,
Rynek-Ratusz 20/22, tel. (+48) 71 343 95 51. Open
09:00 - 19:00.

ART & ANTIQUES

Antiques are a popular commodity in Poland and you’ll
find no shortage of antiquated oddities in Wrocław. As you Designed by Max Berg, the same innovative concrete
walk about town keep your eyes peeled for signage with engineer behind Wrocław’s UNESCO-listed Centennial
the inscriptions ‘Antyki,’‘Antykwariat’ and ‘Starocie’ (junk); ul. Hall, this unique market hall has a handsome,
Kiełbaśnicza (A-3) is a good place to start. Knowledgeable traditional-looking facade, while the interior is a
dealers offer prices comparable with the rest of Europe, but concrete cathedral of elliptical arches. Worth a look
there are still plenty of bargains and undervalued treasures from an architectural, cultural and practical standpoint,
to be found. Bear in mind that if you intend to take art that in Hala Targowa you’ll find earnest locals hawking top
is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value quality fruit and vegetables on the ground floor, as well
out of the country, you’ll have to get some papers in order as a wide selection of local cheese, salami and hams.
first. Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away, Upstairs is a bewildering array of bric-a-brac, nylon
but you may want to check before opening your wallet. underwear and plastic kitchen utensils, and a set of
For artisan galleries in Wrocław, head straight to ul. Jatki surprisingly clean and modern public toilets. To your
(A-2). In addition to being Wrocław’s oldest, most narrow, right as you enter the market is one of the city’s best
and most charming street, this row of former medieval little no-name, no-fuss pierogi bars. Essential.QC-2, ul.
butcher stalls is today home to numerous artist studios and Piaskowa 17, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 31. Open 08:00 -
galleries. For non-commercial art gallery listings, visit our 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Culture section.
PLAC TARGOWY ŚWIEBODZKI
ANTYKI PRZY SZEWSKIEJ If you want a real cultural adventure that you’ll
A very professional and absolutely gorgeous antique shop remember for a long, long time, head to the no-man’s-
uniquely located under the Gothic arches of St. Mary land behind the Świebodzki train station on a Sunday
Magdalene’s Church. With over 5000 items for sale from afternoon and check out this unbelievable open-air
all over the world - including furniture, lamps, paintings, flea market sprawling endlessly west over the train
graphics, porcelain, glass silver and more - it’s also the tracks. A truly mind-blowing scene, the size and scope
largest antiques salon in Wrocław. All items also available of this market is almost hard to comprehend; from the
for sale online - visit the website.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. main entrance near Plac Orląt Lwowskich it unfolds
(+48) 71 341 81 84, www.antykiszewska.pl. Open 14:00 through an endless maze of blue and white striped
- 19 00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. tents, before devolving into acres of rubbish laid out on
dirty blankets over the train tracks or the muddy, barren
earth. Here you can buy literally anything under the sun
-10% at prices about 50% lower than those you might expect
with
this to find anywhere so audacious as to have a floor or a
guid
e roof. Some of it is perfectly legit, of course, some of it
quite dodgy, and most of it complete rubbish. We’re
not mentioning it for the shopping though; amateur
photographers and cultural anthropologists will have a
field day here. Surprisingly close to the market square,
get there while you can, because the city authorities
intend to eliminate this ‘blemish which spoils the
image of the city.’QE-4, ul. Robotnicza 2, tel. (+48)
71 717 12 54. Open on Sundays only; working hours
vary, but most vendors arrive before 08:00 and are
ul. Szewska 10, Wrocław
packing up by 15:00.
tel. +48 508 890 044 - antykiszewska.pl

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 79

 Shopping
POLISH POSTER GALLERY
POLISH VODKA Poland has a proud tradition of graphic art design for film
and theatre, which has basically developed into its own
genre. This fantastic gallery is the place to check it out
by browsing through binders full of hundreds of designs,
many of them in stock and others available to order. Find
alternative film posters you never knew existed for your
favourite flicks, plus amazing propaganda and theatre
posters. A great place for souvenirs and gifts, if you aren’t
into travelling with a poster tube, check out the amazing
postcard collection. Anyone who appreciates graphic art
will be glad to discover this place; recommended.QE-4,
ul. Św. Mikołaja 54/55, tel. (+48) 71 780 49 11, www.
polishposter.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka Sun.
since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two SHOPIQ
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be If you’re interested in checking out some local art and
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any supporting the local scene, drop by this very cool
alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing gallery full of graphics, photos, illustrations, screenprints,
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally paintings and more by local artists. They also have quite an
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of assortment of new and used records to peruse, which you
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most can trade for your own if you happened to leave home with
popular of which we describe below. some of your least essential records in your suitcase.QE-4,
ul. Św. Antoniego 28, tel. (+48) 512 48 22 94, www.
WIŚNIÓWKA shopiq.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in DE’ MOLIKA
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit The closest thing in Wrocław to the indie record store you’ve
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright always wanted to open. Run by two devoted owners, this
red monogamy cure. tiny shop has all the new and vintage vinyl you won’t find in
the ‘megastores,’ plus tonnes of CDs.QB-4, ul. Kazimierza
ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA Wielkiego 65, tel. (+48) 71 346 89 26, www.demolika.pl.
Due to its very name, which translates to something like Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of EMPIK MEGASTORE
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka This massive store selling books, music, movies, video
flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly games, coffee, greeting cards and more, also has the best
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. selection of foreign papers and magazines in town, though
you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up for the privilege.
KRUPNIK Dictionaries, phrase books, maps and a limited English
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of language fiction section are also inside. Other locations
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t in Magnolia Park, Pasaż Grunwaldzki and Renoma (see
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a Shopping Malls).QB-3, Rynek 50, tel. (+48) 22 451 04 62,
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and www.empik.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
mulling spices added.
TAJNE KOMPLETY
ŻUBRÓWKA Wrocław’s finest bookstore, located right in the Town Hall.
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, With a bit of an alternative bent, and a surprisingly good
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since English language selection, Tajny Komplety is the kind
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific of place you could spend the entire day nosing through
to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each comics, art books and even vinyl records. It twins as a cafe,
bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild so don’t expect to be the only one there taking advantage
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as of the free wifi, coffee, tea, cakes and more.QB-3,
it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined Przejście Garncarskie 2, tel. (+48) 71 714 23 80, www.
with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ tajnekomplety.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
80 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Shopping
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
FU-KU
Located inside Galeria Na Czystej - a small modern building
hidden behind the Renoma shopping mall - you’ll find
one of Wrocław’s best swag shops for the fashionable
young urbanite. Peruse the piles and racks of fannypacks,
handbags made from vinyl records, LEGO earrings, zipper
jewellery, asymmetrical sweaters and so much more - all of
it totally trendy, hip, hand-made and designed in Poland.
QB-5, ul. Czysta 4, tel. (+48) 795 27 88 39, www.fu-ku.
pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

MOHER VINTAGE & DESIGN

Located in a highly enviable retail space just off the
market square down ul. Więzienna, this large and
beautiful boutique/’concept store’ features upscale vintage
clothing, designer shoes, signature furnishings, hip fashion
accessories and more. Come to browse the racks, stay for
a coffee, conversation and style tips from the fashionable
young ladies working here.QB-3, ul. Igielna 14/15
(entrance from ul. Więzienna), tel. (+48) 71 341 80 77,
www.moher.com.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 16:00.

FOOD & SWEETS

SŁODKIE CZARY MARY
A small, charming hand-made sweets shop on the Rynek,
where you watch the candy being made right before
your eyes. Most of the interior is occupied by the long
work counter where young ladies are busy rolling out the
colourful candies that cover the shop shelves as children
and their parents watch in wonder. Proper candy-making
demonstrations are conducted at 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00
weekdays, and every hour from 12:00-17:00 on weekends.
Not only a great local gift idea, but a unique experience
for children, choose from a range of reasonably-priced
lollipops and hard candies that come in dozens of flavours
from rhubarb to whiskey-cola.QB-3, Rynek Ratusz 27, tel.
(+48) 601 46 15 61, www.slodkieczarymary.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

It’s only natural to want to have a reminder of your visit to
Poland and leave with some tangible evidence to show all
Gifts
those folks back home who have no idea what or where the & Souvenirs
country is. And if you plan on staying with a Polish family
while in the country, it’s common practise to arrive with Geschenke
a gift. Wrocław being an established tourist destination, Regalos
you’ll find souvenir stalls selling chintzy rubbish all around
the Old Town; while that’s all well and good, most of this Подарки
merchandise probably wasn’t made in Poland, just like
most of the Mexican food in Poland isn’t prepared by
Mexicans. Here, and throughout this section, we’ve made RYNEK 3 MAIN SQUARE
an attempt to identify unique shops in Wrocław that sell
local or Polish products so we can all feel good about WROCŁAW
where you’re spending your złoty.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 81
 Shopping
SHOPPING MALLS
vine.co/inyourpocket
ARKADY WROCŁAWSKIE
One of Wrocław’s
CEPELIA
most centrally located
For over 55 years, this well-recognised company has been
shopping malls, find
promoting and preserving Polish folk art and handicrafts
Arkady Wrocławskie
with a wide selection of ceramics, wood carvings, knitwork,
tucked not far behind
wickery and much more. A lot of it’s touristy rubbish, but
the train station. With
we’ve always fancied the folk costumes (our birthday’s
110 stores across 30,000
coming up). This shop is huge and seamlessly conjoined to
square metres, brand highlights of this upscale retail
a folk art gallery. Also at ul. Wita Stwosza 55 (B-3).QB-2, Pl.
centre include Marks & Spencer, Benetton, H&M, New
Biskupa Nankiera 5/6/7, tel. (+48) 71 343 59 79, www.
Yorker, Alma (the country’s upscale grocer) and more.
cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun
Other diversions you can seek out are the restaurants
10:00 - 14:00.
and cafes, Multikino cinema, cushy children’s playpen
and a truly impressive two-storey aquarium. Within
UPOMINKI
walking distance of most places and easily accessed
Large and perfectly placed on the market square, it’s no
by tram, once you’re inside Arkady Wrocławskie,
surprise that this is one of the longest-running and most
good luck making your way out again.QA-5, ul.
successful souvenir shops in town. With all manner of local
Powstańców Śląskich 2-4, tel. (+48) 71 776 11 22,
Wrocław and Polish souvenirs, including an impressive
www.arkadywroclawskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
collection of amber and other jewellery, gnome figurines,
10:00 - 20:00.
photo albums, t-shirts, bags, magnets, mugs, keychains,
postcards, paintings and more, there’s even a couch for taking
a rest when all those shopping bags start weighing you down. GALERIA DOMINIKAŃSKA
QA-3, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 27 74. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Wrocław’s most accessible and well-known retail monolith,
Galeria Dominikańska is a mere five minutes east of the
VENA POTTERY (GALERIA VENA) Rynek, meaning you’re likely to cross paths with it by
If you aren’t familiar accident and you’re probably going to get sucked in.
with the universally- Among the 100 shops (including Zara, Pull & Bear, Max
loved Bolesławiec style Mara, VAN GRAAF, Media Markt and an iSpot) you’ll also find
of Polish ceramic, which some restaurants (Pizza Hut, Ohh! Sushi & Grill), a beauty
hails from a little town salon (ManiPedi), and we don’t even need to tell you what
not far to the west of else because you’re already inside, you’re on an escalator,
Wrocław, then make sure you’re making eyes with a mannequin, you want to touch
you drop into this shop everything, taste it, try it on. The guide is going back in your
on the market square and educate yourself. Hand-painted pocket, the wallet is coming out...QC-3, Pl. Dominikański
in traditional folk motifs, Vena produces pottery that not 3, tel. (+48) 71 344 95 17, www.galeria-dominikanska.pl.
only looks unique and beautiful, but is also practical for Open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
everyday use. This is one of the best collections we’ve seen
anywhere and a foolproof gift-giving plan for anyone with GALERIA HANDLOWA SKY TOWER
a kitchen.QA-3, Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 71 344 43 70, www. You may have noticed Wrocław has beefed up its skyline,
vena-ceramika.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. realising the arrival of its first bona fide skyscraper with
Sky Tower, the sparkling 212m three-tiered behemoth you
see looming over the city just minutes south of the centre.
Comprising a small city in and of itself with residential
The Global Blue Card apartments, office and retail space, the ‘podium’ level alone
boasts three floors full of boutique shops, restaurants,
Your Passport to Great Savings, cafes, services and sports facilities. Here you’ll find over
The World Over (more information at gb’s website) 80 top name brands, over a dozen restaurants and cafes,
1. You are a non-EU traveler
a supermarket, fitness centre and spa, Banda Club - the
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN largest billiards club in the country, a 24-lane bowling alley,
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU and plenty more. The design is flat gorgeous and features
an incredible interactive wall gallery on the first floor and a
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE surreal Salvador Dali sculpture outside the front entrance.
SHOPPING SERVICE Park your vehicle in one of the 1500 spots or take trams 7 or
20, getting off at ‘Wielka.’QE-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich
www.globalblue.com 95, tel. (+48) 71 738 31 11, www.galeria.skytower.pl.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
82 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Shopping
RENOMA
When completed in 1930, this
consumer showpiece repre-
sented interwar Wrocław/Bre-
slau’s prosperity and splendour:
a towering monument of Euro-
pean modernism, Renoma was
the largest, most cutting-edge department store in this
part of the continent selling high quality goods unavailable
elsewhere. Designed by Berlin architect Hermann Dern-
burg, and initially known as ‘Wertheim’s’ after the Berlin
family that owned the company, the building was added
to the Register of Historical Monuments in 1977 and has
now been restored and modernised for today’s retail mar-
ket. The unique facade of ceramic tiles and gilded heads
has been returned to its former glory while inside you’ll
find today’s most cutting-edge brands, plus a third floor
restaurant that offers fine views of the Old Town with the
Opera House in the foreground. Along with the original
building’s refurbishment, a new modern wing was added
on Plac Czysty which connects to the original structure via
a glass atrium. Easily outclassing the city’s other shopping
malls and smack in the centre, if it was in our disposition
to call a shopping mall a must-see attraction, this would
fit the bill.QA-4, ul. Świdnicka 40, tel. (+48) 71 772 58
20, www.renoma-wroclaw.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 83

 Directory
CURRENCY EXCHANGE CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
AUSTRIAQul. Gagarina 34, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 841
Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find 00 81, www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
in Wrocław, but as with any international destination,
it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t BULGARIAQAl. Ujazdowskie 33/35, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never 22 629 40 71.
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To DENMARKQul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve 22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.
assembled a list of well-located exchange offices that
won’t rip you off, and don’t take a commission. FRANCEQul. Piękna 1, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 529 30
00, www.ambafrance-pl.org.
KANTORQE-4, ul. Legnicka 58 (Magnolia Park), tel.
(+48) 71 338 53 65. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 GERMANYQC-4, ul. Podwale 76, tel. (+48) 71 377 27
- 20:00. 00, www.breslau.diplo.de.

KANTORQB-3, ul. Oławska 2, tel. (+48) 71 344 10 MEXICOQAl. Jerozolimskie 123A, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
78. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 22 311 29 00, sre.gob.mx/polonia.

KANTOR CENTQB-3, ul. Świdnicka 3, tel. (+48) 71 NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
372 35 02, www.centkantor.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00, 22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525
81 10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.
24HR PHARMACIES
KATEDRALNA SWEDENQul. Bagatela 3, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 640 89
QD-1, ul. Sienkiewicza 54/56, tel. (+48) 71 322 73 15. 00, www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.

POD LWAMI UKRAINEQAl. Szucha 7, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 622 47

QA-2, Pl. Jana Pawła II 7, tel. (+48) 71 343 67 24. 97, poland.mfa.gov.ua.

UNITED KINGDOM
24HR SHOPS Qul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00, www.
DELIKATESYQA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27. gov.uk/government/world/poland.

DELIKATESY 24
QA-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 72, tel. (+48) 71 794 77 68. DENTISTS
DENTAL ARTQA-6, ul. Komandorska 53a/3b, tel.
DELIKATESY REWEX (+48) 71 373 22 66, www.dental-art.pl.
QA-5, ul. Bogusławskiego 69, tel. (+48) 71 367 06 81.
PRESTIGE DENTQB-3, ul. Oławska 9, tel. (+48) 663 67
77 77, www.prestigedent.com.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
BRITISH POLISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QE-4, ul. Legnicka 51-53, tel. (+48) 71 733 13 75, www.
bpcc.org.pl. EMERGENCY ROOM
4 WOJSKOWY SZPITAL KLINICZNY
LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Qul. Weigla 5 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 261 660 373,
QA-4, ul. Świdnicka 39, tel. (+48) 71 344 78 25, www. www.4wsk.pl.
dig.wroc.pl.
DOLNOŚLĄSKI SZPITAL SPECJALISTYCZNY -
THE LOWER SILESIAN CHAMBER OF CRAFT CENTRUM MEDYCYNY RATUNKOWEJ
QA-3, Pl. Solny 13, tel. (+48) 71 344 86 91, www.izba. QH-5, ul. Traugutta 116, tel. (+48) 71 789 02 00, www.
wroc.pl. szpital-marciniak.wroclaw.pl.

WESTERN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

QA-3, ul. Ofiar Oświęcimskich 41/43, tel. (+48) 71 795 @InYourPocket
06 56, www.zig.pl.
84 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Directory
INTERNET CAFES
CZATERÓWKA
QB-3, ul. Szewska 75/77, tel. (+48) 609 57 53 34. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

INTERMAX
QA-3, ul. Psie Budy 10/11, tel. (+48) 71 794 05 73, www.
imx.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, 4zł/hour.

POST OFFICES
POCZTA POLSKA
What’s going on
in Poland?
QB-3, Rynek 28, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 38, www.poczta-
polska.pl. Open 24hrs.

POCZTA POLSKA
QC-3, ul. Krasińskiego 1, tel. (+48) 71 347 19 81. Open
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Polish News

PRIVATE CLINICS and

Entertainment
Friday 7th August 2015 Issue 26 (316)

LUX-MEDQE-4, ul. Legnicka 51/53, tel. (+48) 22 332

28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Poland welcomes new President
Andrzej Duda
sworn in this week
MEDICOVER
T
hursday morning saw Andrzej

QE-6, Powstańców Śląskich 7a, tel. (+48) 500 90 05 00,

Duda sworn in as the sixth Presi-
dent of the Third Polish Republic.
Shortly after 10 o’clock, those at the
National Assembly (Lower House) and the

www.medicover.com. Sejm (Upper House) stood to observe the

national anthem and watch the Law and
Justice (PiS) politician take his oath.
Taking over from former President
Bronislaw Komorowski, Mr Duda took
time to thank his colleagues and those
that had supported him by stating, “Dear
VITA CLINICQB-3, ul. Oławska 15, tel. (+48) 71 343 35

© TVN24
compatriots. I am very touched. Thank you
very much.” He also thanked the late (and
former President) Lech Kaczynski and Mr Duda addresses the public for the first time as President

56, www.vita-wroclaw.com.pl. declared he would “do everything” to keep

his election promises and not disappoint
the public.
submit draft legislation to lower the age
of retirement. “I have not forgotten about
President Lech Walesa, one noticeable
figure that was absent was President of
Reading from the Polish Constitution, these issues,” he said. the European Council (and former PM)
he stated, “Assuming, by the will of He also asked for mutual respect between Donald Tusk.
the Nation, the office of the President those of differing opinions, stating, “We A government spokesmen told reporters,
of the Republic of Polish, I solemnly must respect the rights of others without “As head of the European Council, Donald
swear to be faithful to the provisions imposing our opinions upon them ... We Tusk has not received an invitation from

RELIGIOUS SERVICES of the Constitution. I will steadfastly

safeguard the dignity of the Nation, the
independence and security of the State,
and the good of the Homeland and the
must know how to have respect for each
other. And I say this especially here today
in the Sejm. Polish politicians must be
able to say this to themselves. I would like
the president-elect and this decision should
be respected.”
When quizzed on the decision, Donald
Tusk’s Political and Communications
prosperity of its citizens shall forever us to build a mutual respect as that is the Advisor Pawel Gras told TVN Mr Tusk

ROMAN CATHOLIC PARISH OF ST. CHARLES remain my supreme obligation.”

Following on from the official ceremony,
Mr Duda went back over some of his pre-
cornerstone of a community. Only once we
have that cornerstone are we able to start
repairing Poland.”
was, “First and foremost the Head of the
European Council, not just the former PM.”

BOROMEUSZ election promises and vowed to honour

them. Amongst the most important
were his pledges to devise a bill aimed
While a number of high-profile names
were present at the event including former
Prime Ministers Jan Krzysztof Bielecki
Send comments and letters to
[email protected]
at increasing the tax-free bracket and to and Kazimierz Marcinkiewicz and former

Home of the Pastoral Centre for English Speakers, St. Charles

Boromeusz in Fabryczna is essentially the headquarters of Jewellery
Ua^\‰ 

Wrocław’s international Catholic community. English- 2[^cWX]VUa^\‰%

language masses take place Sundays at 16:00. The parish 5^^S3aX]ZUa^\‰& www.gdansk.findlocalgift.com
1^^ZbUa^\‰ $

also offers confession and priest services in English, English-

language wedding ceremonies, etc. Visit their website for
more information.Qul. Krucza 58 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48)
71 361 52 65, www.pastoralcentre.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES
UNIVERSAL EXPRESS RELOCATIONS Get a round-up of the
International moving company (household goods,
personal effects, office equipment).QAl. Jaworowa 14/2, major Polish news, business,
tel. (+48) 71 357 17 87, www.uer.pl. entertainment and sports
in English each week by
TRANSLATORS
subscribing free to our PDF.
& INTERPRETERS
EXPRESS Visit us at
Translates to and from most of European languages. www.newpolandexpress.pl
QE-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 92, tel. (+48) 71 344 76 65, www.
tlumaczy.pl.
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 85
 Hotels
No matter what end of the price spectrum you’re able to RADISSON BLU
entertain, in Wrocław you have plenty of options from QC-3, ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. (+48) 71 375 00 00, www.
5-star presidentials to budget boarding houses, boutique radissonblu.com/hotel-wroclaw. 162 rooms (13 singles,
B&Bs to boisterous hostels, historic apartments to business 144 doubles, 5 apartments). PH6UFKD
suites. The market is positively flooded with hotel rooms hhhhh
(well over 3,500), with several new options opening each
year. On our website - wroclaw.inyourpocket.com - we SOFITEL WROCŁAW OLD TOWNQA-3, ul. Św.
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and Mikołaja 67, tel. (+48) 71 358 83 00, www.sofitel-
around the Lower Silesian capital, with full descriptive wroclaw.com. 205 rooms (189 singles, 173 doubles,
reviews, photos, reader comments, GPS mapping and 15 apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
more. Unfortunately space constraints in our print guide
no longer allow us to include all of that content here as THE GRANARY LA SUITE HOTEL WROCLAW CITY
we once did, however we still provide an updated list of CENTER
reputable hotels, apartments and hostels below. Sleep well. QB-4, ul. Mennicza 24, tel. (+48) 71 395 26 00, www.
thegranaryhotel.com. 46 rooms (39 singles, 39 doubles,
7 apartments). PH6UFKw hhhhh
CREAM OF THE CROP
MONOPOL
QA-4, ul. Modrzejewskiej 2, tel. (+48) 71 772 37 77, UPMARKET
www.monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. 121 rooms ART HOTEL
(107 singles, 107 doubles, 14 suites). PH6UF QA-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 20, tel. (+48) 71 787 74 00, www.
KDXCw hhhhh arthotel.pl. 80 rooms (17 singles, 55 doubles, 6 suites,
1 apartment). PH6UFLKX hhhh
PLATINUM PALACE
Qul. Powstańców Śląskich 204 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 327 BEST WESTERN PRIMAQA-2, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 16-19,
06 00, www.platinumpalace.pl. 46 rooms (41 singles, tel. (+48) 71 782 55 55, www.bestwestern-prima.pl.
41 doubles, 5 suites). PH6UFKDw 78 rooms (77 singles, 65 doubles, 1 apartment). PH
hhhhh 6UFLKD hhhh

DWÓR POLSKI
QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 2, tel. (+48) 71 372 34 15,
www.dworpolski.wroclaw.pl. 28 rooms (24 singles,
22 doubles, 4 apartments). H6K hhhh

EUROPEUM
QA-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 27a, tel. (+48) 71
371 44 00, www.europeum.pl. 36 rooms (36 singles,
33 doubles). PHUFKDw hhh

HOTEL JANA PAWŁA II

QC-2, ul. Św. Idziego 2, tel. (+48) 71 327 14 00,
www.hotel-jp2.pl. 45 rooms (1 single, 43 doubles,
1 apartment). PHULKD hhhh

HOTEL ORBIS WROCŁAW

QE-6, ul. Powstańców Śląskich 7, tel. (+48) 71 361 46
51, www.orbis.pl. 294 rooms (41 singles, 248 doubles,
5 apartments). PH6ULKX hhhh

HP PARK PLAZA
QB-1, ul. Drobnera 11-13, tel. (+48) 71 320 84 00,
www.wroclaw.hotelepark.pl. 177 rooms (156 singles,
156 doubles, 19 suites, 2 apartments). PH6UK
Dw hhhh

MERCURE WROCŁAW CENTRUM

QC-3, Pl. Dominikański 1, tel. (+48) 71 323 27 00, www.
mercure.com. 151 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles,
7 apartments). PH6UKw hhhh
86 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Hotels
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted

T Child-friendly H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre U Facilities for the disabled

K Restaurant L Guarded parking on site

D Sauna w Wellness

6 Animal friendly X Smoking rooms available

C Swimming pool

PARK HOTEL DIAMENT WROCŁAW

Qul. Muchoborska 10 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 735
03 50, www.hotelediament.pl. 132 rooms (127 singles,
115 doubles, 5 suites). PH6UFK hhhh

PURO HOTEL WROCŁAW

QE-4, ul. Włodkowica 6, tel. (+48) 71 772 51 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 102 rooms (102 singles, 97 doubles).
PH6ULK hhh

QUBUS HOTEL WROCŁAW

QB-3, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. (+48) 71 797
98 00, www.qubushotel.com. 83 rooms (83 singles,
62 doubles, 3 apartments). PH6UFKDC
hhhh

SCANDIC WROCŁAW
QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. (+48) 71 787 00
00, www.scandichotels.com. 164 rooms (164 singles,
164 doubles). PH6UFKDX hhhh

SLEEPWALKER BOUTIQUE SUITES

QE-4, ul. Św. Mikołaja 61-62, tel. (+48) 733 35 55 35,
www.sleepwalker.pl. 12 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles,
9 apartments). PHU

MID-RANGE
BUGATTI
Qul. Kosmonautów 328 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 349
35 23, www.hotelbugatti.pl. 20 rooms (17 singles,
17 doubles, 3 triples). PH6K hhh

CAMPANILE WROCŁAW STARE MIASTO

QA-1, ul. Jagiełły 7, tel. (+48) 71 326 78 00, www.
campanile-wroclaw.pl. 110 rooms (109 singles,
109 doubles, 1 apartment). PH6UK hhh

CENTRUM DIKUL
QA-2, ul. Cieszyńskiego 17-19, tel. (+48) 71 796 77
66, www.dikul.pl. 32 rooms (22 singles, 9 doubles,
1 apartment). PU hhh
facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 87
 Hotels
DUET
QA-3, ul. Św Mikołaja 47-48, tel. (+48) 71 785 51 00,
www.hotelduet.pl. 39 rooms (34 singles, 34 doubles,
5 apartments). PH6K hhh

EUROPEJSKI
QB-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 88, tel. (+48) 71 772 10 00, www.
europejskiwroclaw.pl. 95 rooms (19 singles, 64 doubles,
12 apartments). PH6UK hhh

IBIS STYLES WROCŁAW CENTRUM

QC-5/6, ul. Plac Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 71 733 48
00, www.ibis.com. 133 rooms (133 singles, 108 doubles,
21 triples). PH6UL hhh

NOVOTEL
Qul. Wyścigowa 35 (Krzyki), tel. (+48) 71 339 80
51, www.accorhotels.com. 145 rooms (145 singles,
145 doubles). PH6UK hhh

PATIO
QA-3, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 24-25, tel. (+48) 71 375 04 00,
www.hotelpatio.pl. 50 rooms (42 singles, 20 doubles,
8 apartments). H6KX hhh

MONOPOL HOTEL

A pleasant stay Standing on the former

site of a 14th-century
Franciscan church &
LQ:URFĠDZpV monastery at ul. Modrze-
2OG7RZQ jewskiej 2 (A-4), illustri-
ous banker Wallenberg-
Pachaly and architect
Karol Grosser tore down the crumbling ruins in 1890
qBNMUDMHDMS and built a neo-Baroque hotel and neo-Renaissance
location trading house here, officially opening it as the ‘Hotel
qBNLENQS@AKDENQ Monopol’ in 1892. The decades that followed saw the
Monopol become the most famous hotel in town with
VNQJ@MCQDK@W@SHNM Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and even Hitler himself
qEQDDVH j staying here; a special balcony was added to room 113
qVDKBNLDO@BJ@FDHMD@BGQNNL so that Der Fuhrer could use it to address the crowds
below. In 1948, Pablo Picasso came to town for the
q35VHSG"@M@K ‘International Congress of Intellectuals in Defence of
qQDRS@TQ@MSRDQUHMF/NKHRG Peace’ and painted ‘Dove of Peace’ in his room. Zbig-
@MC(MSDQM@SHNM@KBTHRHMD niew Cybulski - the Polish James Dean - also shot sev-
eral famous movie scenes in the hotel.
qBNMEDQDMBDR SQ@HMHMFR Closed in 2006 and sold to the Likus Hotel & Restau-
@MCA@MPTDSR rants Group, the Monopol was thoroughly renovated
and reopened in 2009. Rooms are immaculately deco-
rated with turn-of-the-century antiques, and the build-
ing features two fabulous restaurants (Acquario and
XO-DJLHŕŕ\:URFŕDZ Monopol), as well as two seasonal rooftop terrace bars
7HO)D[ (La Terazza and Sky Bar). Once more the most exclusive
ZURFODZ#FDPSDQLOHFRPZZZFDPSDQLOHZURFODZSO and luxurious hotel in town, if you can afford to sleep
in this historic locale you’ll find that the experience is
worth the money.

88 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

 Hotels
POLONIA
QA-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 66, tel. (+48) 71 343 10 21, www.
poloniawroclaw.pl. 107 rooms (28 singles, 79 doubles).
6UK hhh

QUALITY SYSTEM HOTEL WROCŁAW

QH-1, Al. Kromera 16, tel. (+48) 71 364 97 00, www.
quality-hotels.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 77 doubles,
7 apartments). PH6UKDCw hhh

SOFIA
QB-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 104 (entrance from ul. Gwarna
23), tel. (+48) 71 372 32 00, www.hotelsofia.pl. 31 rooms
(31 singles, 31 doubles). PH6UKDw hhh

TUMSKI
QC-2, Wyspa Słodowa 10, tel. (+48) 71 322 60 99, www.
hotel-tumski.com.pl. 57 rooms (14 singles, 38 doubles,
3 triples, 1 apartment). H6UK hhh

WODNIKQH-5, ul. Na Grobli 28, tel. (+48) 71 343 36 67,

www.wodnik-hotel.pl. 18 rooms (9 singles, 7 doubles,
2 suites). HK hhh XO3RPRUVND:URFâDZ
tel./fax 71 793 86 82
BUDGET [email protected]
AKIRA BED & BREAKFASTQF-2, Pl. Strzelecki 28,
tel. (+48) 71 323 08 88, www.hotelakira.pl. 21 rooms
(21 singles, 17 doubles, 2 triples). 6U

B&B HOTEL
QB-4, ul. Piotra Skargi 24-28, tel. (+48) 71 324 09 80,
www.hotelbb.pl. 140 rooms (140 singles, 140 doubles,
2 triples, 2 quads). PH6X hh

BOOGIE HOSTEL DELUXE

QA-3, ul. Białoskórnicza 6, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www.
boogiehostel.com. 13 rooms (12 singles, 12 doubles,
1 quad). 6

CILANTRO BED & BREAKFAST

QA-1, ul. Pomorska 32/26-29, tel. (+48) 71 793 86 82,
www.cilantro.pl. 9 rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 3 triples).
6L

HOTEL PIAST
QB-5, ul. Piłsudskiego 98, tel. (+48) 71 343 00 33, www.
piastwroclaw.pl. 92 rooms (80 singles, 74 doubles,
12 suites). H6UK hh

IBIS BUDGET WROCŁAW STADION

Qul. Lotnicza 151 (Pilczyce), tel. (+48) 71 353 84
48, www.ibisbudget.com. 122 rooms (118 singles,
118 doubles, 4 triples). P6U h

youtube.com/inyourpocket

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 89

 Hotels
SAVOY
QA-5, Pl. Kościuszki 19, tel. (+48) 71 344 30 71, www.
savoy-wroclaw.pl. 26 rooms (20 singles, 17 doubles,
4 triples). 6

APARTMENTS
ART APART
QD-4, ul. Walońska 7/1, tel. (+48) 667 71 71 71, www.
artapart.pl. 50 apartments. 6

EXCLUSIVE WORLD APARTMENTS

QB-3, ul. Krawiecka 6/4, tel. (+48) 515 13 81 77, www.
exclusiveapartments.pl. 65 apartments. P

LEOAPART
QB-2, ul. Więzienna 21, tel. (+48) 71 330 71 21, www.
leoapart.com. 55 apartments. 6LK

NEW
LUCKY APARTMENTS
QB-3, ul. Wita Stwosza 15, tel. (+48) 730 89 99 88, www.
luckyapart.pl/en. 20 apartments. 6GW

SILVER APARTMENTS
QB-3, ul. Krawiecka 3, tel. (+48) 698 68 83 44, www.
silverapartments.pl. 29 apartments. P6

HOSTELS
ABSYNT HOSTEL
QA-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 15, tel. (+48) 691 40 54 05,
www.absynthostel.pl. 124 rooms (2 singles, 17 doubles,
5 triples, 4 quads, 86 apartments, 20 dorm beds).

BOOGIE HOSTEL
QE-4, ul. Ruska 34, tel. (+48) 71 342 44 72, www.
GUEST ROOMS, APARTMENT, HOSTEL boogiehostel.com. 20 rooms (19 singles, 19 doubles,
19 triples, 2 quads, 8 dorm beds). P6
The Dairy, Die Molkerei, La Latteria, Le Lecheria, La Laitearie.

CINNAMON
QB-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 67, tel. (+48) 71 344
58 58, www.cinnamonhostel.com. 10 rooms (3 singles,
3 doubles, 44 dorm beds). 6

GRAMPA’S HOSTEL
QF-3, Pl. Św. Macieja 2/1, tel. (+48) 71 321 92 40, www.
grampahostel.com. 9 rooms (2 singles, 2 doubles,
48 dorm beds).

HOSTEL BEMMA
QF-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 15, tel. (+48) 531 53
15 98, www.hostelbemma.pl. 17 rooms (11 singles,
11 doubles, 25 dorm beds). 6
ul. P. Włodkowica 5, 50 – 072 Wrocław
tel./fax +48 71 787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl HOSTEL KOMBINAT
e-mail: [email protected] QA-4, ul. Świdnicka 24/4, tel. (+48) 71 344 66 77, www.
hostelkombinat.pl. 5 rooms (2 doubles, 1 triple, 13 dorm
beds:).
90 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
 Hotels
HOT BEER?
There are a number of ways to survive the winter in
Poland, and we’ve tried them all, from dressing up like
an Eskimo to staying in bed and refusing to get dressed
at all. Of all the methods known, however, none rewards
as much as a pint of ‘grzane piwo’. That’s hot beer in
layman’s terms - essentially a frothing hot pint spiced
with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other
mulling spices. For some an acquired taste, for others an
early Christmas present and others still an utter profanity,
but an invention necessary for everyone to try at least
once. There are a couple things to consider with regards
to hot beer: Firstly, it takes a while (5-10 minutes) to
properly heat the drink without exploding it, so prepare
to wait and be patient. Secondly there is a tendency to
immediately stab a straw into the glass to mix the syrup
at the bottom throughout the drink. If the beverage is too
hot this will result in it erupting all over you. This common
rookie mistake is an event many twisted bartenders wait
for with relish; you can avoid it by simply letting your
drink cool slightly and gingerly testing its reaction to the
straw. [We’re telling you this to save you some face. Ours
has had egg on it too many times.] Similarly popular is
‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the
all the places selling it during December’s Christmas
market. A popular brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you
enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to
discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and
easily prepare it at home as well.

MLECZARNIAQE-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48) 71

787 75 70, www.mleczarniahostel.pl. 8 rooms (4 singles,
4 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 34 dorm beds).

MOON HOSTELQA-3, ul. Krupnicza 6-8 (entrance

from Kazimierza Wielkiego 27), tel. (+48) 508 77 72 00,
www.moonhostel.pl/wroclaw. 26 rooms (10 doubles,
7 triples, 4 quads, 2 5-person rooms, 2 6-person room, 1
HOTEL | CONGRESS CENTRE | RESTAURANT
8-person room). 6L

THE ONE HOSTELQB-3, ul. Rynek 30, tel. (+48) 71

337 24 02, www.onehostel.pl. 20 rooms (6 singles,
6 doubles, 2 quads, 112 dorm beds). H

WRATISLAVIAQC-5, ul. Komuny Paryskiej 19, tel.

(+48) 71 360 08 22, www.hostel-wratislavia.pl. 33 rooms
(2 singles, 5 doubles, 3 triples, 16 quads, 10 apartments, www.terminalhotel.pl
40 dorm beds). 6U

AIRPORT HOTEL
TERMINAL HOTEL
Qul. Rakietowa 33 (Fabryczna), tel. (+48) 71 773
55 75, www.terminalhotel.pl. 52 rooms (52 singles, XO5DNLHWRZD}:URFĠDZ
52 doubles). PH6UK hhh tel.: + 48 71 773 55 75, [email protected]

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 91

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 Street Register
Al. Armii Krajowej F-7, H-7 Gwarna F-5 Łazienna F-4 Plac Katedralny G-4 Stawowa B-5
Al. Boya-Żeleńskiego H-1 Hauke-Bosaka G-5 Ledochowskiego D-1 Plac Legionów E-5 Strażnicza A/B-2
Al. Kochanowskiego I-3 Haukego-Bosaka C/D-4 Legnicka E-4 Plac Nowy Targ B-3 Stysia E-5
Al. Kromera H-1 Henryka Brodatego F-3 Lelewela E-5 Plac Orląt Lwowskich E-4 Sucha B/C-6
Al. Matejki G-3 Henryka Pobożnego F-3 Leszczyńskiego A-3 Plac Polski G-4 Sucha F-6, G-6
Al. Słowackiego G-4 Henrykowska G-7 Lniana G-7 Plac Powstańców Śląskich E-7 Sudecka E-7
Anny, św. C-2 Hercena C-5 Łódzka F-6/7 Plac Powstańców Warszawy G-4 Sukiennice A/B-3
Antoniego, św. A-3 Hercena G-5 Łokietka Władysława B-1 Plac Powstańców Wielkopolskich Św. Anny F-3, G-3
Arrasowa B-4 Hlonda, kard. D-2 Lubuska E-5 F-2 Św. Antoniego E-4, F-4
Bałuckiego A-5 Hoene-Wrońskiego H-4 Łukasińskiego D-5 Plac Rozjezdny E-5 Św. Doroty F-4/5
Bałuckiego F-5 Hubska C-6 Łukasińskiego G-5 Plac Słowiański G-2 Św. Ducha C-2
Barlickiego G-2 Hubska G-6/7 Macieja, św., pl. B-1 Plac Solny F-4 Św. Ducha G-4
Barycka D-1 Chemiczna H-3 Małachowskiego C-6 Plac Strzelecki F-2 Św. Jadwigi G-3/4
Barycka G-3 Chudoby H-6 Małachowskiego F-5, G-5 Plac św. Krzysztofa F-4 Św. Józefa G-4
Baudouina de Courtenay I-2 Idziego, św. C/D-2 Malarska A-2 Plac św. Mikołaja E-3 Św. Katarzyny F-4, G-4
Bema G-3 Igielna A/B-3 Marcina, św. C-2 Plac Teatralny F-5 Św. Mikołaja E-4, F-4
Bema, gen. C-1 Igielna F-4 Marii Magdaleny, św. B-3 Plac Uniwersytecki F-4 Św. Wincentego F-2/3
Bema, gen., pl. C-1 Inowrocławska E-3 Marsz. Piłsudskiego E-5, F-5 Plac Westerplatte H-3 Świdnicka A/B-3/5
Benedyktyńska F-3, G-3 Jadwigi, św. C-2 Matejki, al. D-1 Plac Wróblewskiego G-5 Świdnicka F-5
Berenta H-1 Jagiełły E-3 Mazowiecka D-3/4 Plac Zgody H-5 Świebodzka E-5
Bernardyńska C-3 Janickiego C-3 Mazowiecka G-4/5 Podwale A/C-3/5 Świętokrzyska C/D-1/2
Bernardyńska G-4 Janickiego G-4 Mennicza A/B-4 Podwale E-4, F-3, G-4/5 Świętokrzyska G-3
Białoskórnicza A-2 Janiszewskiego H-4 Mennicza F-5 Podwórcowa F-3 Świstackiego D-6
Biskupia B-3 Jatki A-2 Miernicza D-5 Polaka H-4 Świstackiego G-5/6
Biskupia F-4 Jęczmienna E-5 Miernicza G-5 Polski, pl. C-3 Swobodna A-6
Bogusławskiego A/B-5 Jedności Narodowej B/C-1 Mieszczańska A-1 Pomorska A-1 Swobodna E-5, F-5/6
Bogusławskiego F-5 Jedności Narodowej F-3, G-2/3, H-2 Mieszczańska E-3, F-3 Pomorska F-3 Szajnochy A-3
Bohaterów Getta, pl. A-3 Joannitów B-6 Mieszka I C-1/2 Poniatowskiego G-3 Szajnochy F-4
Bolesława Chrobrego F-2/3 Joannitów F-6 Mieszka I G-3 Poniatowskiego, ks. C-1 Szarzyńskiego H-3
Borna, pl. A-1 Jodłowa B-3 Michalczyka E-3 Portowa E-2 Szczepińska E-4
Borowska A-6 Joliot-Curie D-2/3 Mikołaja, św. A-3 Powstańców Śląskich A-5/6 Szczytnicka D-2
Borowska F-6 Joliot-Curie G-4, H-4 Miła H-3/4 Powstańców Śląskich E-6 Szczytnicka G-4, H-4
Bożego Ciała A/B-4 Józefa, św. D-2 Minkowskiego H-3/4 Powstańców Warszawy pl. D-3 Szewska B-2/4
Bożego Ciała F-5 Kamienna E-7, G-7 Młoda H-6 Prądzyńskiego G-5, H-5 Teatralna B-4
Braniborska E-4 Kanonia C/D-2 Młodych Techników E-3 Prądzyńskiego, Igancego, gen. Teatralna F-5
Brodatego Henryka B-1 Kapistrana, św. C-3 Modrzejewskiej A-4 D-5/6 Teatralny, pl. A-4
Browarna G-1/2 Kapitulna D-2 Modrzejewskiej F-5 Pretficza E-6/7 Traugutta C/D-4/5
Brzeska D-6 Kard. Hlonda G-3 Muzealna A-4 Probusa F-3 Traugutta G-5, H-5
Brzeska H-6 Kard. Wyszyńskiego G-3/4, H-2/3 Muzealna F-5 Probusa Henryka B-1 Trzebnicka B-1
Bulwar Dunikowskiego G-4 Kaszubska F-3 Myśliwska F-3 Prosta E-5 Trzebnicka F-2/3
Bulwar Włostowica G-4 Katarzyny, św. B/C-3 Na Grobli H-5 Prusa C/D-1 Ukryta H-3
Ciepła F-6/7 Katedralna C/D-2 Na Niskich Łąkach H-6, I-6 Prusa G-3, H-3 Uniwersytecka B-2
Cieszkowskiego I-2 Katedralna G-3/4 Na Szańcach C-1 Przejście Garncarskie A/B-3 Uniwersytecka F-4
Cieszyńskiego A-2 Katedralny, pl. D-2 Na Szańcach G-3 Przejście Żelaźnicze A/B-3 Uniwersytecki, pl. B-2
Cieszyńskiego F-4 Kazimierza Jagiellończyka F-3 Nabycińska E-4 Przeskok D-1 Ustronie G-2
Curie-Skłodowskiej H-4, I-4 Kazimierza Wielkiego A/B-3/4 Najświętszej Marii Panny C-2 Przeskok G-3 Walecznych H-3
Cybulskiego A/B-1/2 Kazimierza Wielkiego F-4 Namysłowska G-2 Ptasia F-3 Walońska D-4
Cybulskiego F-3 Kaznodziejska B-3 Nankiera, bp., pl. B/C-2 Psie Budy A-3 Walońska G-5
Czerwonego Krzyża I-3 Kiełbaśnicza A-2/3 Nasypowa A-5 Psie Budy F-4 Warzywnicza C-1
Czesława, bł. B-3 Kiełbaśnicza F-4 Nasypowa E-5, F-5 Pszenna E-5 Wąska A/B-1
Czysta B-4/5 Kilińskiego C-1 Nauczycielska H-4 Pułaskiego G-5/6 Wesoła F-6
Czysta F-5 Kilińskiego G-3 Nehringa H-4 Pułaskiego, gen. C/D-4/6 Widok B-4
Czysty, pl. A/B-4 Kleczkowska F-2 Niemcewicza C-1 Purkyniego, Jana Ewangelisty Widok F-4/5
Dąbrowskiego G-5 Kluczborska G-2 Niemcewicza G-2/3 C/D-3 Więckowskiego H-5/6
Dąbrowskiego, gen. C-5 Kniaziewicza C-5 Nobla F-3 Rakowiecka I-5/6 Wieczysta F-7, G-7
Daszyńskiego G-2, H-2/3 Kniaziewicza G-5 Norwida H-4 Reja H-3/4 Wierzbowa B-4
Dawida G-6 Kolejowa E-5 Nowa B/C-4 Rejtana B-5 Wierzbowa F-4/5
Dębickiego F-2 Kołłątaja B-4/5 Nowa F-5, G-5 Rejtana F-5 Więzienna B-2
Długa E-3 Komandorska A-5/6 Nowowiejska H-3 Reymonta F-2 Więzienna F-4
Dmowskiego E-3 Komandorska F-6 Nowy Świat A-2 Roentgena H-3/4 Wita Stwosza B-3
Dobra E-4 Kominka, kard. D-2 Nowy Świat F-4 Roosevelta G-2/3 Wita Stwosza F-4
Dobrzyńska D-4 Komuny Paryskiej C/D-5/6 Nowy Targ, pl. B-3 Rostafińskiego B-1 Wita, św. B-3
Dobrzyńska G-4 Komuny Paryskiej G-5 Nożownicza B-2/3 Rostafińskiego F-3 Witolda, ks. A/B-2
Dolna G-2 Konstytucji 3 Maja, pl. B/C-5/6 Nożownicza F-4 Rozbrat H-3 Władysława Łokietka F-3
Dominikański, Pl. C-3 Kościelny, pl. C-2 Nyska G-7, H-7 Ruska A-3 Włodkowica E-4
Doroty, św. A-4 Kościuszki A-5 Odrzańska A-2/3 Ruska E-4, F-4 Wodna B-2
Drobnera B/C-1 Kościuszki F-5, G-5 Odrzańska F-4 Rybacka E-4 Wolności, pl. A-4
Drobnera F-3, G-3 Kościuszki, pl. A/D-4/6 Ofiar Oświęcimskich A/B-3 Rydygiera B-1 Worcella C/D-4/5
Druckiego-Lubeckiego A-4 Kotlarska A/B-3 Ofiar Oświęcimskich F-4 Rydygiera F-3 Worcella G-5
Druckiego-Lubeckiego F-5 Kotlarska F-4 Oławska B-3, C-4 Rychtalska G-2 Wróblewskiego, pl. D-4
Drukarska E-6/7 Kraińskiego C-2/3 Oławska F-4, G-4 Rynek A-3 Wrocławczyka H-4
Drzewna E-4 Krakowska H-6, I-7 Ołbińska G-2/3 Rynek F-4 Wybrzeże Conrada-
Dubois A/B-1 Krasińskiego B/C-3/4 Oleśnicka G-3 Rzeźnicza A-2/3 Korzeniowskiego F-2
Dubois F-3 Krasińskiego G-5 Orzeszkowej H-2/3 Rzeźnicza F-4 Wybrzeże Słowackiego H-4/5
Dworcowa B/C-5 Kraszewskiego F-2 Otmuchowska G-7, I-7 Sądowa E-5 Wybrzeże Wyspiańskiego H-4
Dworcowa G-5 Krawiecka B-3 Otwarta A-1 Siemieńskiego F-2 Wygodna G-2
Dyrekcyjna B/C-6 Kręta F-2, G-2 Otwarta F-3 Sienkiewicza C/D-1 Wyspa C-2
Dyrekcyjna F-6 Krowia B-3 Owsiana E-5 Sienkiewicza G-3, H-3, I-3 Wyszyńskiego, kard. D-1/2
Elżbiety, św. A-3 Krowia F-4 Pabianicka F-6 Sikorskiego E-4 Zachodnia E-3
Flisacka E-2, F-2 Krupnicza A-3 Pasterska E-1, G-1, H-2 Skargi F-5 Zakładowa F-2, G-2
Franciszkańska A-4 Krupnicza F-4 Paulińska A/B-1 Skargi, ks. B-4 Zaolziańska A-6
Franciszkański, pl. A-4 Krzysztofa, św., pl. B-4 Paulińska F-3 Składowa A-1 Zaolziańska F-6
Frycza-Modrzewskiego C-2/3 Krzywa H-3 Pawła Włodkowica E-4 Składowa F-3 Zapolskiej A-5
Gajowa C-6 Księcia Witolda F-3 Pawłowa E-5 Skwerowa A-6 Zapolskiej F-5
Garbary A/B-2 Kurkowa A-1 Pestalozziego G-3 Ślężna A/B-6 Zaporoska E-5/6
Garncarska C-3 Kurkowa F-3 Piaskowa C-2/3 Słodowa C-2 Zaułek Wolski A-5
Gdańska H-3 Kurzy Targ B-3 Piaskowa G-4 Słowackiego, al. C/D-3 Żeromskiego D-1
Gepperta A-3 Kurzy Targ F-4 Piastowska H-3/4 Słowackiego, wybrzeże D-3/4 Zgodna H-5
Gliniana F-6, G-6 Kuźnicza B-2/3 Piłsudskiego, marsz. A/B-5 Słowiańska G-2 Zielińskiego E-5/6
Gnieźnieńska E-2 Kuźnicza F-4 Piwna H-4 Smoluchowskiego H-4, I-4 Żiżki E-3
Górnickiego H-3 Łaciarska B-2/3 Plac Bema G-3 Śniadeckich I-3 Zyndrama z Maszkowic A-1/2
Grabiszyńska E-5 Łaciarska F-4 Plac Borna F-3 Solny, pl. A-3 Zyndrama z Maszkowic E-3, F-3
Grodzka B/C-2 Ładna H-3/4 Plac Dominikański G-4 Sopocka H-3, I-3 Żytnia E-5
Grodzka F-4, G-4 Łąka Mazurska H-1, I-1 Plac Franciszkański F-4 Srocza F-3
Grunwaldzka H-3/4, I-3 Łąkowa A-4 Plac Grunwaldzki H-4, I-4 Środkowa E-4
Grunwaldzki, pl C/D-3/4 Łąkowa F-5 Plac J. Szeli E-5 Śrutowa B-1
Gwarna B-5 Łazienna A-2 Plac Jana Pawła II E-4 Staromłyńska C-2

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 Index
Absynt Hostel 90 Restaurant 34 HP Park Plaza 86 Mahi Mahi 34
Active Poland 74 De' Molika 80 Ibis Budget Wrocław Stadion Mañana Cafe 51
Ahimsa Restaurant & Club 39 Dobra Karma 28 89 Mango Mama 7
Akira Bed & Breakfast 89 Do Jutra 45 Ibis Styles Wrocław Centrum Marina 29
Akropolis 25 Domówka 50 88 Marynka Piwo i Aperitivo 46
Ambasada 48 Duet 88 Iglica 69 Masala Indian Restaurant 25
Amorinio 42 Dwór Polski 36, 86 Infowro Jatki Wrocław 57 Mercure Wrocław Centrum 86
Antyki przy Szewskiej 79 Empik Megastore 80 Jacek i Agatka 40 Military Museum 59
Aquarelle 26 Eter Club 50 JaDka 36 Miś 40
Archaeology Museum 58 Ethnographic Museum 58 Japanese Garden 70 Mleczarnia 46, 91
Archdiocese Museum 66 Europejski 88 Karczma Lwowska 37 Moaburger 23
Architecture Museum 58 Europeum 86 Kawiarnia Literatka 43 MOHER Vintage & Design 81
Arkady Wrocławskie 82 Exclusive World Apartments 90 Knajpa Kres 39 Monopol 86
ARomaTy 42 Food Art Gallery 28 Konspira 37, 59 Monopol Spa & Wellness
Art Apart 90 Free Walking Tour Foundation Kontynuacja 45 Centre 76
Art Cafe Kalambur 50 55 KRVN 46 Monument to the Victims of
Art Hotel 86 Fu-Ku 81 Kwatera Główna 74 the Katyń Massacre 57
Art Restauracja & Kawiarnia 36 Funboat 76 La Dolce Vita 33 Moon Hostel 91
Barka Tumska 26, 30 Galeria Dominikańska 82 La Maddalena 35 Municipal Swimming Pools 76
Baszta 40 Galeria Handlowa Sky Tower 82 La Scala 33 Najadacze.pl 40
Baszta Niedźwiadka 61 Galeria Schubert 79 Las/Zupa 27 Nalanda 41
B&B Hotel 89 Giselle French Bakery Cafe 30 Le Bistrot Parisien 25 National Museum 59
Bema Cafe 30, 42 Grampa's Hostel 90 Le Chef 29 Neon Side Club & Gallery 46
Bernard 26 Grey Music Club 50 Le Mans 74 New Jewish Cemetery 72
Best Western Prima 86 Hala Targowa 79 Leoapart 90 Niebo Cafe 46
Bezsenność 50 Hortyca 39 Lower Silesian Cultural Nietota 51
Bike Cafe 74 Hostel Bemma 90 Information Centre 57 Novotel 88
Bike & Scooter Rental 74 Hostel Kombinat 90 Lucky Apartments 90 Od Koochni 7
Bistro Narożnik 7 Hotel Jana Pawła II 86 Lwia Brama 29 OK Wine Bar 29
BLT & Flatbreads 23 Hotel Orbis Wrocław 86 Machina Organika 40 Old Havana Cigar Shop &
Bobolandia 75 Hotel Piast 89 Macondo 7 Lounge 46, 78
Boogie Hostel 90
Boogie Hostel Deluxe 89
Botanical Garden 66
Brasserie 27 28
Breadway 30
Bugatti 87
Bułka z Masłem 42
Cafe Borówka 43
Campanile Wrocław Stare
Miasto 87
Capri Ristorante Pizzeria 33
Cathedral of St. John the
Baptist 66
Centennial Hall & Discovery
Centre 69
Centennial Hall Parking 68
Central Cafe 30
Centrum Dikul 87
Cepelia 82
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 75
Charlotte Chleb i Wino 43
Chatka Przy Jatkach 36
Church of Saints Peter & Paul
65
Church of the Holy Cross / St.
Bartholomew's 65
Cilantro Bed & Breakfast 89
Cinnamon 90
CIŻ Cafe 73
Cocofli 43
Coctail Bar Max & Dom Whisky
45
Czary Mary 28
Darea Sushi Korean - Japanese
One of the colorful characters you’ll meet in Nadodrze (see page 6).

94 Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com

 Index
Old Jewish Cemetery 73 St. Elizabeth's Church 56
Padbar 47 St. Martin's Church 65
Papa Bar 47 St. Mary Magdalene's Church
Park Hotel Diament Wrocław 56
87 Sukiennice 7 32
Partisan Hill 61 Szajba 48
Passenger Cruises 76 Szczytnicki Park 71
Patelnia 27 Szklarnia 48
Patio 88 Szlak Gondoli 76
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn 37 Sztrass Burger 24
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 48 Szynkarnia 48
Piwnica Świdnicka 37 Tajne Komplety 80
PiwoCzas 78 Taverna Española 38
Plac Targowy Świebodzki 79 Terminal Hotel 91
Platinum Palace 86 The Anonymous Pedestrians
Pod Fredrą 38 57
Pod Latarniami 47 The Bente Kahan Foundation
Pod Papugami 30, 48 73
Polish Poster Gallery 80 The Granary La Suite Hotel
Polonia 89 Wroclaw City Center 86
Post & Communications The Naked Swordsman 57
Museum 59 The One Hostel 91
Powoli 7 The Ossolineum 62
PRIV 51 The Royal Palace, History
Przystań 30 Museum 60 Who needs a stairway to heaven when you can take the train!
PURO Hotel Wrocław 87 The White Stork Synagogue 73 © sidbradypus | dollar photo club
Quality System Hotel Wrocław The Winners Pub 49
89 Tourist Information 57
Qubus Hotel Wrocław 87 Town Hall, Museum of FEATURES INDEX
Quchnia Polska 38 Burgher Art 60
Racławice Panorama 60 Tumski 89 Breakfast 30
Radisson Blu 86 University Church of the Currency Exchange 84
Renoma 83 Blessed Name of Jesus 56 Facts & Figures 12
Restauracja Acquario 30 Upominki 82
Flower Power 35
Restauracja Europejska 30 Va Bene Trattoria 35
Restauracja Monopol 38 Vega 41 Hot Beer? 91
Restauracja Patio 32 Vena Pottery 82 Konspira 59
ROCK Burger 23 Vertigo Jazz Club & Restaurant Language Smarts 13
Rodeo Grill Steak House 24 32, 50 Live Music 50
Sakana Sushi Bar 34 Vinyl Cafe 43 Market Square 56
Sarah 34 Water Tower 63
Savoy 90 Wicar's Pub 49 Market Values 12
Scandic Wrocław 87 Więzienna Pub 49 Milk Bars 40
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej 48 Wincentego 21 7 Monopol Hotel 88
Sezam 75 Wodnik 89 Nadodrze 6
Shopiq 80 Wodnik Restaurant 33 Neon Wrocław 62
Silver Apartments 90 Wratislavia 91
SkyBowling 75 Wratislavia Tour 55
Pasaż Niepolda 49
Sky Tower 57 Wrocław Aquapark 76 Polish Food 38
SleepWalker Boutique Suites Wrocław City Tours 55 Polish Snacks & Shots 48
87 Wrocław Contemporary Polish Vodka 80
Słodkie Czary Mary 81 Museum 61 Polski Venice? 66
Soczewka 24 Wrocław Fountain 70
Quick Eats 27
Sofia 89 Wrocław - Silesia Tours 55
Sofitel Wrocław Old Town 86 Wrocław University 58 Racławice Panorama 60
Stare Jatki 62 Wrocław Zoo 68 Sky Tower 57
Stary Klasztor 32 Złe Mięso 41 Street Art 61
Steinhaus 35 ZZ Top 27 The Lamplighter 65
The Maluch 53
Tipping Tribulations 32
Not listed here? Wait, Where Am I? 55
Wrocław Historical Timeline 15
More listings online: Wrocław IYP Online 63
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com Wroclaw University 58

facebook.com/WroclawInYourPocket September - December 2015 95

 Jewish cemetery
view point

street mural
water equipment rental
marina