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Auto Detailing Guide

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Wash and Dry

Overview
Washing and drying is the foundation of any detail, whether it's simply maintaining your vehicle with a wash and dry or the start
of a long detailing process. It's often overlooked that properly washing and drying your vehicle is the single most important step
in any detailing process. This is due to the fact that most imperfections (swirls, scratches, water spots, etc.) are added to your
paint during the washing and drying phase. With the proper tools, products and technique, you can easily minimize adding
imperfections to your paint. There are various methods you can use to properly wash, which will be explained below in detail.

Frequency
We recommend washing once every week or two.

Pre-wash Setup
There's a few things you want to do to get setup prior to any wash using a hose as your source of water. Properly preparing
everything before you start your wash process will help things go smoother, which can help cut down on the time it takes to
wash your vehicle. Being able to properly wash quickly will cut down on the chances of water spots forming on your vehicle,
which can require a lot of time and effort to remove. To further eliminate any possibility of adding water spots to your paint, you
can invest in a water purifier system, which removes any minerals from your water making it nearly impossible for water spots to
form.

Recommended Setup Procedure Prior to Washing

Step 1: Attach your hose to your water source

Optional Step: Set up your in-line water purifier for a mineral free wash
Step 2: Unwind the hose and walk it around your vehicle and ensure you can easily spray and rinse every panel
Step 3: Attach the shut-off valve to the end of your hose (make sure the valve is closed)
Step 4: Turn on your water source
Step 5: Attach your spray nozzle to the shut-off valve coupler
Step 6: Place the Grit Guard insert into your designated rinse bucket
Step 7: Turn your shut-off valve to open
Step 8: Fill each bucket up about half way up with water
Step 9: Soak your wash media in the clean rinse bucket until you are ready to wash

Pre-wash Degreasing
When heavy contamination has built up over time, you may want to utilize a stronger cleaner than just your shampoo, such as a
degreaser, to help break up and loosen dirt, tar, sap, bird droppings, and other stubborn forms of contamination. It's usually best
to degrease prior to shampooing your vehicle, so that as you shampoo your vehicle, it ensures there is no degreaser remaining
on your vehicle. It's important to note that most degreasers will usually remove protective layers of sealant or wax, so use as
needed. It's important that you know you'll need to re-apply your coat(s) of protection.

Note: Always read the directions of your product first and follow their recommendations when outlined. Also, check to make
sure the product you are using is safe to use on the surface you plan on degreasing.
Step 1: Choose your desired strength of the degreaser, many products can be diluted, while maintaining effectiveness
Step 2: Starting with the lower portion of your vehicle working upwards, mist the degreaser onto your vehicle
Step 3: Let the product dwell on your vehicle (usually 30 seconds - 5 minutes) as it works to break up and loosen the
contamination from your vehicle
Step 4: Choose a wash media to use and soak it in the clean water for a few seconds
Step 5: Working in small areas, wipe the area you are degreasing with the wash media, using as little pressure as possible
Step 6: Rinse the wash media in a separate rinse bucket, running your mitt or sponge over the Grit Guard insert to release
as much contamination as possible
Step 7: Repeat steps 2 through 6 until each area on your vehicle you degreased has been agitated with the wash media
and water
Step 8: When finished degreasing, clean out your two buckets and fill them up with fresh water
Step 9: Proceed to wash and dry your vehicle

Traditional Two Bucket Wash

Using the two bucket wash method is one of the safest ways to maintain your vehicle while minimizing the possibility of adding
imperfections to the paint. It's very beneficial to master this technique as it can be used in conjunction with various other
washing methods, such as washing with a foam gun and using a rinseless shampoo.

Traditional Two Bucket Wash How-To

Step 1: Follow the Pre-wash Setup Procedure
Step 2: Pour roughly an ounce (or as directed on the bottle) of shampoo into your non-rinse bucket
Step 3: Spray the bucket with shampoo to generate some lather and suds
Step 4: Take your wash mitt or sponge from the rinse bucket, and dunk it into the bucket full of suds
Step 5: Starting from the top of your vehicle, gently glide your wash mitt / sponge across a section of your vehicle, using
little to no added pressure
Step 6: Clean your wash media in your rinse bucket, running your mitt or sponge over the Grit Guard insert to release as
much contamination as possible
Step 7: Repeat steps 4 through 6 until your entire vehicle has been washed
Step 8: Thoroughly rinse off the suds from your vehicle
Step 9: Turn the shut-off valve to the off position and remove your spray nozzle
Step 10: Turn the shut-off valve back on and use the free flowing water to perform the sheeting method
Step 11: Proceed to drying your vehicle

Incorporating a Foam Gun

Using a Gilmour Foamaster II Foam Gun in conjunction with your two bucket wash method can further minimize adding
imperfections to your paint, as well as add some fun to your wash process. The main benefit is that you can pre-soak your
vehicle with shampoo without the need to touch your paint. This allows the surfactants in the shampoo to start lifting
contamination from the surface of your vehicle, which can also speed up the wash process.

How-To Wash using a Gilmour Foamaster II Foam Gun

Step 1: Follow the Pre-wash Setup Procedure, making sure you use the Gilmour nozzle that comes with the Foamaster II
Step 2: Pour roughly an ounce (or as directed on the bottle) of shampoo into your non-rinse bucket
Step 3: Spray the bucket with shampoo to generate some lather and suds
Step 4: Pour the appropriate amount of shampoo into the foam gun reservoir and add water if desired (we like 4 - 6 ounces
of shampoo with 4 - 6 ounces of water)
Step 5: Adjust the dial to the appropriate dilution setting (we like Setting E for maximum suds)
Step 6: Shake the foam gun tank to mix the shampoo and water, which helps generate more suds
Step 7: Attach the foam gun tank to the foam gun nozzle
Step 8: Starting from the top of your vehicle, cover your entire vehicle in suds with the foam gun
Step 9: Take your wash mitt or sponge from the rinse bucket, and dunk it into the bucket full of suds
Step 10: Starting from the top of your vehicle, gently glide your wash mitt / sponge across a section of your vehicle, using
little to no added pressure
Step 11: Clean your wash media in your rinse bucket, running your mitt or sponge over the Grit Guard insert to release as
much contamination as possible
Step 12: Repeat steps 7 through 9 until your entire vehicle has been washed

Step 13: Remove the foam gun and thoroughly rinse off the suds from your vehicle
Step 14: Turn the shut-off valve to the off position and remove your spray nozzle
Step 15: Turn the shut-off valve back on and use the free flowing water to perform the sheeting method
Step 16: Proceed to drying your vehicle

Note: There is no one right dilution ratio for a foam gun and any shampoo combination. We recommend you experiment with
different ratios to see what you like best. If you provide a richer concentration expect more suds and a slicker surface while
washing, but if you want a great value try diluting it more.

Sheeting Method
The sheeting method is a simple process that allows you to dry most of your vehicle without ever needing to touch the paint with
a drying towel. The main idea behind the sheeting method is to create a cascading effect where the water flowing onto the car
combines with the water already on the surface, pulling it down off of the vehicle. Simple physics states that like particles stick
together, which is why this method is so successful. When done properly, especially on a vehicle with a sealant or wax on it, you
are left with only a few drops of water on each panel, which can easily be absorbed with your drying towel.

How-To Perform the Sheeting Technique

Note: This should be performed after you vehicle has been properly washed following the recommended steps. Also, make sure
your hose is dispensing free flowing water prior to starting.

Step 1: Starting from the top of your vehicle moving left to right, flood the roof until water is pouring off the edge
Step 2: Quickly lower the hose a little to "catch" the water falling from the roof, this time moving right to left
Step 3: Lower the hose again and continue in the opposite direction moving left to right
Step 4: Continue this technique until you reach the lowest panels of your vehicle
Step 5: Finish drying your vehicle

Drying Your Vehicle

One of the most common mistakes people make when detailing is improperly drying their vehicle. This is often a major cause of
adding imperfections to your paint. Before putting a towel to your paint, if you have access to a blower, we recommend blowing
out panel gaps, trim pieces, lug nuts, between mirrors and glass, and lights. This helps prevent the continuous drip from these
common areas which can be a pain when you are performing other detailing steps. For a drying towel, we highly recommend
using a microfiber waffle weave drying towel for removing any water left behind (after performing the sheeting method of
course). Waffle weave towels are textured so that it can help pull remaining contamination away from the surface rather than
dragging it across the paint like a chamois (such as The Absorber or Shamwow). It's also much softer than a cotton bath towel,
and can hold more than 5x it's weight in water.

How-To Properly Dry Your Vehicle

Step 1: If you haven't already, be sure to perform the sheeting technique to remove a majority of the water
Step 2: If you have access to a blower, blow out panel gaps, trim pieces, lug nuts, between mirrors and glass, and lights to
stop any dripping
Step 3: Starting from the top of your vehicle working down, blot dry (avoid dragging as much as possible) any remaining
drops of water with your waffle weave drying towel.

Note: If you are performing a maintenance wash and don't plan on doing any steps afterwards, we recommend going over your
paint with a quick detailer and a plush microfiber towel to remove any tiny droplets of water and to enhance your paints finish. If
you are moving on to claying or Polish, a few tiny drops remaining on your vehicle are OK, as the next steps will remove them.

Rinseless Wash
The latest in wash technology allows you to wash your car without the need of a hose for rinsing afterward. You still need water
of course, but simply one or two buckets full will do. This allows you to wash your car in your garage, in an apartment complex
or condo, or virtually anywhere you can fill up a couple gallons of water. Watch as Optimum No Rinse or Chemical Guys Hose
Free Eco Wash encapsulates dirt and other contamination and lifts it from the surface for safe removal. Keep your car clean and
save the environment at the same time with this paint safe, eco-friendly style of washing.

Rinseless Wash How-To

Step 1: Insert your Grit Guard insert to the bottom of your bucket
Step 2: Fill your bucket with 3 to 4 gallons of warm water
Step 3: Pour in 1 oz. of Optimum No Rinse per 2 gallons of water in your bucket
Step 4: Soak your wash media in the water and ONR solution
Step 5: Wash the surface using little to no added pressure and allow the ONR to lift contamination off of the surface
Step 6: Rinse your wash medium and glide it across the Grit Guard insert to help release as much contamination as
possible
Step 7: Repeat steps 4 - 6 until your entire vehicle has been washed
Step 8: Blot dry using waffle weave drying towels
Step 9: Follow up with your choice of quick detailer and a plush microfiber towel to ensure no streaking or water is left
behind

Note: On heavily contaminated vehicles, we recommend pre-treating the panel you are working on with a mixture of ONR in a
spray bottle, prior to washing. This will help lift the contamination prior to touching your vehicle, helping minimize adding any
imperfections to the paint.

Waterless Wash
This is the perfect step to use a day or two after a wash when there is simply a layer of light dust on your paint. Waterless wash
options are simple, quick and effective. These products are like quick detailers, loaded with cleaners and surfactants to help
remove light contamination without marring your finish. Our two most popular products are Poorboy's Spray & Wipe and
Chemical Guys Go Green! Waterless Wash. They are best used with plush microfiber towels. Please know that this does not
replace traditional washes. On heavily contaminated vehicles, you will add marring and swirls to the finish, waterless washes
are designed to remove a layer of light dust safely.

Waterless Wash How-To

Step 1: Mist the waterless wash product onto the surface you are trying to clean
Step 2: Let product dwell for 30 seconds to a couple of minutes
Step 3: Using a plush microfiber towel, gently wipe the surface clean
Step 4: Using a second plush microfiber towel, buff away any streaks
Step 5: Repeat steps 1 - 4 until the entire vehicle has been cleaned

Note: For added lubricity, you can mist the microfiber towel prior to wiping the dusty surface.

Facts and Tips

Use as little pressure as possible with your wash medium

Allow the shampoo to do most of the cleaning, not your force
Using a foam gun to pre-soak your vehicle can help minimize adding imperfections
It's always best practice to wash and dry in the shade, out of direct sunlight
Always use two wash buckets, one with shampoo and water, and one with rinse water
Using a Grit Guard insert helps release contamination from your wash mitt
Use a separate wash media for your wheels and tires, heavy contaminated areas, and lightly contaminated areas
Pre-treat heavily contaminated areas of your vehicle with a degreaser
Rinse your wash media as frequently as possible (every panel or so)
The more contaminated your vehicle is, the more often you should rinse your mitt or sponge
It's good practice to wash weekly or every two weeks
Using a shut off valve allows you to quickly remove a hose nozzle without getting wet or running to the water source
You can use a second Grit Guard insert in each bucket with shampoo and water
Some shampoos can be used to strip off previous coats of protection when used in high concentration
Using a Grit Guard insert helps trap contamination on the bottom of the bucket
Utilize the sheeting method to remove most of the water from your vehicle
A waffle weave drying towel is the safest product to use to dry your vehicle
Instead of wiping with your drying towel, blot the paint to minimize adding imperfections
Using a blower can help remove water between panels, mirrors, gaps, lug nuts and other hard to reach areas
Optimum No Rinse is an excellent wash option for people without access to a hose

Related Articles

Here are a few articles related to Washing & Drying from our Ask-a-Pro Detailer Blog:

How To Properly Wash and Dry a Car

2006 Acura TL in Nighthawk Black Pearl - Part 1
Wash and Wx in 60 Minutes Featuring Optimum No Rinse
Spot Free Washing and Drying With CR Spotless
My Wash Process for Maintenace Washings
Winter Washing with Optimum No Rinse (ONR)
How to Safely Wash You Car in the Winter
Safely Removing Pollen Will Save Your Paint
Product Review: Detailed Image Waffle Weave Drying Towel
The Grit Guard 2x4 Wash Method

View all Washing & Drying articles

What's Next?
After you've properly washed your vehicle, the next step in the entire detailing process is to clay your paint to remove embedded
contamination that was not removed during the wash. If this was simply a maintenance wash, consider adding a coat of sealant
or wax, or even use a quick detailer to enhance the gloss and depth.

Clay Bar

Overview
Using a clay bar will remove embedded surface contamination that still remains after a maintenance wash. Sometimes the
contamination removed is not always visible on the paint to the naked eye. After using a clay bar on your paint you will be left
with a surface that is as smooth as glass and properly prepped. It is now ready for polish or for you to apply layers of protection.
Not only can you clay your vehicles paint, but glass, wheels, lights and more. A common misconception about using a clay bar
is that it has an impact on removing swirls and scratches, it does not.

Frequency
We recommend using a clay bar roughly twice a year, or before details where you plan on polishing the paint. If your car is
subject to industrial fallout or heavily contaminated areas, using a clay bar more often may be required.

Prior to Use
Before using a clay bar, your car should be washed and dried to remove a majority of contamination on your vehicle. The more
contaminated the paint is the more likely imperfections can be added during the clay bar process.

Choosing a Clay Lubricant

There are two common types of clay lube, quick detailers and a combination of water and shampoo solution. The clay bar
lubricant provides a slick surface for you to glide your clay over. If you use the clay on paint without clay lube, you'll notice that
the clay won't slide across your paint and you can easily add marring and leave behind pieces of clay on your paint which can
be a pain to remove.
Many detailers use a quick detailer as their clay lube. We recommend using one that has some cleaning power and little or no
protective properties. This helps loosen the embedded contamination from the paint and yields great results. Poorboy's Spray &
Wipe is a good clay lube because it's a great cleaner and creates a slick surface to work on.
Another popular option is to use a mixture of Optimum No Rinse and water. It has cleaning agents that help lift contamination
from the surface, provides a slippery surface to glide your clay over and cleans up nicely. Simply add 2 ounces of ONR to a
gallon of water and you have yourself a great clay bar lubricant.

How-To Clay

Step 1: Wash and dry your vehicle

Step 2: Break off a small piece of clay that you will be working with and shape it into a flat surface
Step 3: Working in small 18" x 18" sections, mist the clay bar lubricant over your working area, so that every square inch is
covered in clay lube

Step 4: Gently glide the clay bar over your working area using overlapping passes going left to right or up and down. Note:
You do not want to rely on a lot of downward force to clean the paint. You should allow the clay to absorb the
contamination. Stubborn contamination can require a good amount of time, clay lube and passes to remove.
Step 5: Continue working on an area until all contamination is removed. You can tell this has happened because the clay
will slide effortlessly across the paint and you will not hear any contamination being picked up by the clay.
Step 6: Wipe off the excess clay lube with a microfiber towel
Step 7: Continue steps 3 - 6 until the entire car has been properly clayed

Note: Reshape your piece of clay after each section so that there is a clean fresh surface exposed. If you cannot reveal a fresh
surface, break off a new piece of clay. To increase the life of your clay bar, spray the bar with a clay lube and store it in a clay
bar storage container.

Facts and Tips

If you drop a piece of clay, throw it away!
Working on a small area ensures that your clay lube will not dry up too fast
Do not use too much pressure when gliding a clay bar across the lubricated surface
Using a quick detailer that leaves behind a slick surface is often good as a clay bar lubricant
For most vehicles, we recommend using a fine grade clay bar
A medium grade clay bar will almost always leave behind some marring that needs to be polished to remove
Optimum No Rinse mixed with water is a common clay bar lubricant amongst professionals
You can often tell if there is contamination still on the surface by listening closely as your clay
Avoid using a clay bar in direct sunlight so that your clay lube does not dry up quickly
Cutting your clay bar into small pieces helps preserve your clay in the event you drop a piece
Always try to reshape your clay to expose a fresh, clean piece of clay
When storing your clay bar, mist some of your clay lube in the bag or container to keep is soft and flexible
It's good practice to re-wash your vehicle after using a clay bar to remove any loosened contamination and to remove
excess clay bar residue
Clay not only works well on your paint, but also your glass, wheels, plastics and other surfaces

Related Articles
Here are a few articles related to Clay Bars from our Ask-a-Pro Detailer Blog:

How to Properly Use a Clay Bar

Why Claying is Vital
2006 Acura TL in Nighthawk Black Pearl Part 2
Stoner's Tarminator Not Just For Removing Tar
Product Review: Dodo Juice Born Slippy
Tutorial: How to Prep a Car For Polishing
Video: Fiat Show Car Saved From Paint Overspray
Envious Detailing 23 Hour Lamborghini Gallardo Reconditioning
Envious Detailing Giving a BMW 328 a New Life
Auto Detailing Maintenance Schedules

View all Clay Bar articles

What's Next?
After your paint has been clayed it is good practice to give the car a re-wash before proceeding to the next step, which is
polishing your paint. Re-washing your vehicle can ensure that any loosened contamination is removed and that all of the clay
bar lubricant is removed. The wash should go much quicker since there should be nearly no contamination on the vehicle and
you should be able to sheet dry very effectively since your paint will be ultra smooth. After the re-wash, then you want to polish
your paint.

Polish

Overview
Polishing is the step in the detailing process that yields the most dramatic difference in your paint's appearance. The objective of
polishing is to remove imperfections in the clear coat that cause the paint to look dull. Surface imperfections can include swirls,
scratches, water spots, etchings, industrial fallout, oxidation, etc. These surface imperfections cause light to fragment instead of
passing directly through the clear coat yielding less gloss and depth. When these imperfections are removed, you will reveal the
true potential of your vehicle's paint.
A swirl mark is a very thin and shallow scratch on the surface of your paint, that often comes from washing and drying
improperly. Waxes, sealants and most glazes will not permanently remove these surface imperfections at best they will hide
them temporarily. To eliminate these imperfections safely and permanently you want to polish the surface starting with a less
aggressive polish and using more aggressive polishes as needed. The chemical polishing agents and/or the polishing particles
will safely remove the extremely fine imperfections.

Frequency
We recommend only polishing as needed, which is typically around one to two times per year during a full detail. After a
thorough multiple step polishing process has been completed you can maintain the finish properly using the correct washing and
drying products and techniques. Keeping the paint in good condition will ensure it needs less frequent polishing.

Why Use a Buffer?

While you can polish by hand, it is highly recommended to use a quality buffer for maximum results. When you remove
imperfections in your paint, you are working in polishing particles thoroughly and evenly. To do this by hand, you need to use a
fair amount of pressure while moving the pad rather quickly. To put it in perspective, the standard in the industry for buffers is
the Porter Cable 7424 XP. This buffer can generate 6,800 oscillations per minute at full speed very safely and effectively.
Imagine trying to move your arm 6,800 times per minute for hours on end, all while exerting 10 - 15 lbs of pressure on the
applicator pad. It's impossible to duplicate by hand and it can be tiresome to do a small fraction of this work by hand.
Another main advantage of a buffer is its ability to work with various pads that help increase the polishing power. For example a
blue pad is extremely soft so it's used for extremely fine polishes, but if you use an orange pad it's more dense and can work in
a medium cutting polish extremely well. Best of all these pads all use the same hook and loop backing so you simply slap them
on and pull them off with ease and no tools are needed. Below we will outline some of the most popular buffers for detailers and
what pads and polishes they work great with. There is no one best buffer and there is no one best combination of pad and
polishes, however our recommendations come from years of experience and consistently yield excellent results.
To see a comparison of the technical specifications between buffers please check out our Buffer Comparison Chart below.

Buffer Comparison Chart

Buffer

Type

Speed Dial

Random orbital

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Comes With

2,500 OPM
3,400 OPM
4,200 OPM
5,000 OPM
5,900 OPM
6,800 OPM

6" Pad w/permanent

backing plate
Instructions manual
Side handle
Built in 6"
counterweight
Wrench for backing
plate

Specifications

4.5 Amps
2500 - 6800 OPMs
5.75 lbs
Spindle Thread
5/16-24
Speed Dial (1 - 6)
90 day guarantee, 1yr
mfg & 3yr parts
warranty

Compatible
Backing Plates &
Pads

Backing Plate Random Orbit 3" - 6"

Buffer Pads - 3" - 6.5"

Porter Cable 7424XP

Random orbital

1,700 R.P.M. - 4,200 R.P.M.

Built in 6" backing plate

Rupes LHR 21ES 21MM

Random orbital

1,700 R.P.M - 4,800 R.P.M.

Built in 5" backing plate

Rupes LHR 15ES 15MM

Random orbital

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

1,800 opm
2,800 opm
3,800 opm
4,800 opm
5,800 opm
6,800 opm

Meguiar's canvas bag

W68DA Soft Buff 2.0
DA 6"" Backing Plate

Meguiar's G110v2

Random orbital

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

2,500 OPM
3,360 OPM
4,220 OPM
5,080 OPM
5,940 OPM
6,800 OPM

6" DA backing plate included

Griot's Garage 6" 3rd Gen.

500 watt output

Stroke size: 10.5mm
offset, created a
21mm orbit diameter
Machine weight: 5lbs 8
oz
Spindle Mounting hole:
8mm x 1.25mm female
thread
Soft Start guarantees
an acceleration ramp
to prevent accidental
dispersion of
compound unwanted
New ergonomic front
handle
The electronic
feedback control
maintains speed
constant in all
applications

500 watt output

Stroke size: 7.5mm
offset, creates a 15mm
orbit diameter
Machine Weight: 5lbs
5oz
Spindle mounting hole:
8mm x 1.25mm female
thread
1 year warranty
Made in Italy

5.5 lbs
Thread size: 5/16" - 24
45 degree exit cord
Easy side-port access
for quick brush
changes same as
most professional
rotary buffers
Upgraded extended
wear brushes
New rubber cord with
upgraded cord
assembly
Internal feedback
circuit increases
torque when
downward pressure is
applied

Powerful 7-Amp,
850-Watt Motor
2,500 - 6,800 Orbits
Per Minute
Variable Speed, Wider
RPM Range
Wider 5/16" orbit
pattern for faster and
better results
Ergonomic Adjustable
Handle
Available with 10' or
25' cord
Lifetime Warranty from
Griot's

Backing Plate - Rupes

5" - 6"
Buffer Pads - 5" - 6.5"

Backing Plate - Rupes

5" - 6"
Buffer Pads - 5" - 6.5"

Backing Plate Random Orbit 3" - 6"

Buffer Pads - 3" - 6.5"

Backing Plate Random Orbit 3" - 6"

Buffer Pads - 3" - 6.5"

Random orbital

3,500 to 10,000 OPM's

3" DA backing plate included

Griot's Garage 3"

Forced random orbital

Flex XC 3401 VRG

Rotary

1. 3,200/160
OPMs/RPMs
2. 4,500/200
OPMs/RPMs
3. 5,800/270
OPMs/RPMs
4. 7,000/330
OPMs/RPMs
5. 8,300/400
OPMs/RPMs
6. 9,600/480
OPMs/RPMs

600 - 2100 RPMs

Instructions manual
5.5" backing plate
Handle
Alan wrench

Side handle included

240 Watt motor

3,500 to 10,000 OPM's
Soft start, constant
speed feature
An ergonomic built-in
grip at the head of the
unit
Heavy duty cord
Steel bevel gear drive
for smoother operation
A standard style
backing plate with a
5/16" shaft
Lifetime Warranty from
Griot's

7.5 Amps
3200 - 9600 OPMs
(160 - 480 RPMs)
5.75 lbs
Variable speed trigger
Lock-on button locks
the trigger
1 year mfg warranty

10 Amps
880 Watt
Tool Fixture: 5/8"
5.6 lbs
Speed without load:
600-2100 rpm
Overload protection
1 year mfg warranty

Backing Plate Random Orbit 3"

Buffer Pads - 3"

Backing Plate - Flex 4

3/8" - 5 1/2"
Buffer Pads - 5" - 6.5"

Backing Plate - Rotary

3" - 6"
Buffer Pads - 3" - 6.5"

Flex PE 14-2 150

Rotary

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

600 RPMs
900 RPMs
1,500 RPMs
2,100 RPMs
2,700 RPMs
3,000 RPMs

Makita 9227C
Wool and blended pad
6" backing plate
Makita nylon tool bag
Bail and side handle
Hex wrench &
centering post

10 Amps
600 - 3000 RPMs
Spindle thread 5/8" 11 UNC
6.6 lbs
Variable speed trigger
w/lock on button
1 year mfg warranty

Backing Plate - Rotary

3" - 6"
Buffer Pads - 3" - 6.5"

Makita 9227C-X3

Porter Cable 7424

The Porter Cable 7424 XP (PC 7424 XP) is often referred to as the standard in the auto detailing industry. We've yet to come
across a buffer at a lower price point that has enough power to effectively work in polishes like the Porter Cable 7424 XP can.
This is one of the main reasons why the PC 7424XP is our best selling buffer.
The PC 7424XP is great for both experienced professionals and first time users. The first benefit many detailers notice is the
lower price point which makes it affordable to just about all. It is also incredibly easy and safe to use so brand new users can
expect excellent results with their first detail. The PC 7424 XP is a random orbital buffer, which means it oscillates rather than
spins. This helps reduce the amount of heat generated on the paint and is very safe to use. Even at full speed, the risk of
damaging your paint is virtually zero.
Pros:

Low cost compared to other quality buffers on the market

Very safe to use at any speed
Easy to control and maneuver
Can be used with almost any hook and loop pad

Cons:

Can not remove some scratches and deeper imperfections

Backing plate not included

Flex XC3401VRG
The Flex XC3401VRG dual action buffer uses a revolutionary design that really changed detailing when it was first released.
The XC3401VRG has the ability to correct imperfections nearly as fast a rotary buffer, but is totally safe to use and you won't
burn the paint with it. The Flex is a true dual action buffer, meaning it oscillates as well as utilizes forced rotation. This creates
even more power while keeping it safe and easy to use. It has plenty of polishing power to remove many surface imperfections
quickly and effectively. The ergonomics of the buffer and unique features make it easy to operate, even for first time buffer
users.
Pros:

Fast correction of swirls, scratches, water spots, oxidation and more

Powerful motor that will not bog down under pressure
Up to 9,600 OPM and 480 RPM at full speed
Variable speed trigger allows you to reduce the speed on the fly
Professional like results nearly every time you polish
Can be used to apply a compound, polish, glaze, sealant or wax

Cons:

Up front cost of the buffer

Makita 9227C
The Makita 9227C is a rotary buffer that is perfect for the high end detailing enthusiasts or professional detailer. Rotary buffers
can correct paint imperfections faster than a random orbital or a dual action buffer, however, they take lot of practice to master
and have a higher risk of damaging the paint when used incorrectly.
The 9227C uses the standard 5/8" - 11 UNC spindle thread that most rotary buffers utilize, so finding a backing plate is not a
chore.
Pros:

Standard in the industry for professional paint correction

Fast correction of swirls, scratches, water spots, oxidation and more
Slow starting RPM speed of 600

Cons:

Not recommended for beginner detailers due to the risk of damaging the paint
No variable speed trigger
Does not include a backing plate

Choosing a Backing Plate

Every buffer requires some form of a backing plate that allows you to attach pads to the buffer. Each buffer may have a different
requirement for what type of backing plate is needed so make sure you get the correct one. The backing plate may come
pre-assembled but many will screw in or otherwise attach to the buffer. It will stay there no matter what type of pad you use as
long as it's the same size. The face of the backing plate is hook and loop (similar to Velcro) which very easily attaches to the
back of the hook and loop pads. You simply just center the pad on the backing plate and press it down securely and you are
done.
If you are not sure what size backing plate to get please see the Smaller vs Larger section. Below is a list of backing plates that
work with each buffer and the corresponding pad size:
Porter Cable 7424 XP and Meguiar's Dual Action Polisher G110v2* (*comes with a 6" Backing Plate)

Lake Country Porter Cable 7424 Backing Plate used with 4" pads
Lake Country 5 Inch Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 used with 5.5" pads
Lake Country 6 Inch Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 used with 6.5" pads

Meguiar's Backing Plate 3 Inch with Adapter Kit used with 3" pads and 4" pads
Meguiar's Professional DA Polisher Backing Plate W67DA used with 5.5" pads
Meguiar's DA Professional Backing Plate used with 6.5" pads

Makita 9227C-X3 Rotary Buffer and Flex PE 14-2 150 Rotary Buffer

Lake Country Rotary Backing Plate used with 4" pads

Lake Country Rotary Hook & Loop 5" Backing Plate used with 5.5" pads
Lake Country Rotary Hook & Loop 6" Backing Plate used with 6.5" pads
Chemical Guys Evolve 4R Rotary Backing Plate used with 5.5" pads
Meguiar's Solo Easy-Buff Rotary Backing Plate W66 used with 6.5" pads

Flex XC 3401 VRG

Lake Country Flex XC 3401 Backing Plate System used with 4" and 6.5" pads
Flex XC 3401 4 3/8 Backing Plate used with 5.5" pads
Flex XC 3401 5 1/2 Backing Plate used with 6.5" pads

Hand Polishing
As previously stated a buffer is generally more effective at applying a polish or compound because it can provide more passes
and pressure than a normal hand application. The added pressure and passes will work the polish in more thoroughly and
effectively removing more of the surface imperfections. However, if you are not able to use a buffer you can still apply polishes
by hand and make you're vehicle look noticeably better. Hand applications are generally completed with one of two methods.
The traditional method is a generic hand applicator usually made of foam or microfiber. Another option is to use a product like
the Polishing Pal and Lake Country four inch pads to work in the polishes.
The Polishing Pal is a huge help for those who prefer a hand application because of two main advantages over a traditional
hand application. The Polishing Pal makes it is easier to distribute the pressure through the entire four inch pad instead of just
where your finger tips press. Secondly you can use any of the four inch pads from Lake Country which are a huge help with the
polishing process. For example you will get more polishing power with an orange four inch pad and the Polishing Pal versus the
same application with a traditional foam applicator. The Polishing Pal can be used with various pads so you use it to apply any
compound, polish, glaze, sealant and wax. Many detailers believe the Polishing Pal feels more comfortable to work with and
less tiresome.

Choosing Polishes
With so many polish options available, it can be difficult to choose which product will work best for your needs. Each polish has
their pros and cons, while a few excel in almost everything. Polishes can vary from a non-abrasive chemical cleaner to a very
abrasive compound. The overall objective of polishing is to rid the surface of imperfections. In an ideal world, you would always
use the least aggressive polish and pad combination to get the results you are looking for. The problem with going this route is it
can be very time consuming to test lots of polish and pad combinations and it can be costly to stock up on multiple polish and
pad combinations. As you become more experienced, you will be able to assess your paint and have a good idea what level
polish you will need.
As a detailing enthusiast, it is recommended to have at least one polish of each level on hand to tackle any type of imperfection
that may come your way. Listed below are the various types of polishes and what each polish is typically used for.

Compounds
Compounds are the most aggressive type of polish and should be used only as needed. Compounds are commonly used on
severely neglected vehicles and to clean up wet sanding marks. Compounds will almost always leave behind some marring,
hazing, or holograms and should always be followed up with a finer polish and pad combination.

Cutting Polishes
Most polishes that correct moderate paint imperfections fall into the category of a cutting polish. They are less aggressive than
compounds in terms of cutting power and usually do not finish down as well as a finishing polish. On most paint, it is
recommended to follow up a cutting polish with a finishing polish to remove any micro-marring, hazing or holograms as well as
increase the depth and gloss. Some cutting polishes are capable of finishing down very nicely on certain paint finishes, but to be

safe we recommend a light pad and polish be used afterward.

Finishing Polishes
The point of most finishing polishes is to remove very minor imperfections in the paint, such as micro-marring, hazing and
holograms. Finishing polishes typically will not remove imperfections deeper than a very light swirl. They are also used to
burnish the paint to achieve an exceptional level of gloss and depth.

Paint Cleaners
Paint cleaners are designed to enhance the depth and gloss while properly prepping the paint for a sealant or wax. Sometimes
paint cleaners can have micro abrasives or they can be non-abrasive. They typically will not remove imperfections that require
leveling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.

Choosing Pads
When it comes to selecting the proper pad for polishing, you want to always make sure you match the aggressiveness of the
polish with the aggressiveness of the pad. A mismatched combination can create unnecessary work while wasting your time and
product, so take the time to ensure you have the right pad and polish for the job.

Most Aggressive to Least Aggressive

Our current pad offering in order from most aggressive to least aggressive looks like this:

Purple Foamed Wool

Yellow Cutting Pad
Orange Light Cutting Pad
Pink Very Light Cutting Pad
White Polishing Pad
Black Finishing Pad
Blue Finessing Pad

Purple foamed wool pads are one of the more aggressive pad we offer. These are typically used on rotary buffers, but can also
be used on a dual action buffer or random orbital. What makes them so effective on a rotary buffer is that it offers lots of cutting
power with less risk of damaging the clear coat. Because of the air between the wool fibers, the paint remains cooler at high
speeds, compared to a foam pad with similar cutting ability. We always recommend following up with finer polish and pad
combinations to achieve maximum results when using a purple foamed wool pad.
Yellow cutting pads utilize a very dense foam pad, making them very aggressive in terms of cutting ability. The yellow cutting
pads are commonly used for heavy correction using a compound on neglected vehicles. Yellow cutting pads are often used
instead of a purple foamed wool pads when looking for maximum cut on a random orbital or dual action buffer. We always
recommend following up with finer polish and pad combinations to achieve maximum results when using yellow cutting pads.
Orange light cutting pads are one of the work horse pads for many professional detailers. They are most commonly used to
apply medium cutting polishes and do a very good job removing swirls, scratches and other imperfections in the paint. We
always recommend following up with a finer pad, such as a white polishing pad or black finishing pad whenever using an orange
pad. The cyan pad is used in the same manner as the orange pad.
Pink very light cutting pads are becoming more and more popular, especially with the advancements in polishes. They are
typically used to apply medium cutting polishes or finishing polishes, when imperfections are not too deep. Pink pads are unique
in the sense that you can get good correction out of them, but you also have the potential to finish down nicely. If you decide
you want even more depth and gloss, we recommend following up the pink pad with a black finishing pad.
The white polishing pad is one of our most versatile polishing pads. It is commonly used to apply medium cutting polishes,
finishing polishes, and chemical polishes. White pads have the ability to finish down nicely without the need of a finer pad,
however, you may opt for a finer pad to get the maximum depth and gloss. The tangerine pad is used in the same manner as
the white pads.
Black finishing pads are commonly used to get increased depth and gloss with a finishing polish. They are also used to apply all

in one products, paintwork cleansers, glazes, sealants, and liquid waxes. A very versatile pad that should be in any detailers
arsenal.
Blue fine finishing pads are our softest and most porous pad. They are commonly used to apply last step products as they have
virtually no bite to them. Blue pads are sometimes used to burnish the paint with the finest polish, Menzerna PO85RD, to bring
out the maximum depth and gloss. These pads are also commonly used to apply a sealant or liquid wax. The crimson pad is
used in the same manner as the blue pad listed here.

Smaller vs Larger
Different pad sizes can have an impact on how well the buffer works in a polish, control, maneuverability, and how fast you can
cover an area.
Smaller pads in general will offer you more control with any buffer. Smaller pads also make it easier to maneuver buffers in
tighter areas, around corners and closer to trim pieces. On the downside a smaller pad will fill up with product faster than a
larger pad. For maximum results, especially when polishing, it's best to swap the pads out for fresh ones more frequently,
especially with the smaller pads. We recommend changing the pad out for a fresh one every couple panels, so you may use 4 6 pads per coat. In general, the fresher the pad, the better the results.
Larger pads can cover a larger surface area in less time. This is particularly helpful with a sealant or wax which only needs to be
spread nice and thin. We recommend using 2 - 4 pads per coat so you get maximum results while polishing. The downside to
this larger surface area is that it's slightly less effective when trying to thoroughly work in a polish.
With random orbital buffers, such as the Porter Cable 7424 XP, the smaller the pad, the more effective you'll be able to work in
polishes. This is due to the fact that you are concentrating more of the buffers energy over a smaller area. Larger pads on a
random orbital do not break down polishes as effectively as smaller pads because the energy is distributed over a larger area.
With a rotary buffer, the opposite holds true. Smaller pads offer less polishing power versus a larger pad. On a rotary buffer, the
outer edge of the pad is spinning the fastest. The larger the pad is, the more cut you are going to get out of a rotary buffer. This
can correct imperfections faster than smaller pads, however the risk of leaving behind hazing or holograms is much higher with
larger pads on a rotary buffer.
There is no one right size pad, it just depends on your specific goals and the buffer you choose. In general if we have to pick
one size we recommend the 5.5" pads as they are a nice happy medium. The 5.5" pads provide enough corrective power while
covering plenty of surface area to complete the detail in a timely manner.

Popular Polish & Pad Combinations

As you polish you will learn what works best for you and your particular vehicle(s) but that takes some time and experience.
After years of experience and feedback from other expert detailers we've compiled various recommendations below that work
great together to help get you started.
Popular 2 Step Combinations:

Step 1: Menzerna SI 1500 on orange pads

Step 2: Menzerna PO106FA on white pads

Step 1: Menzerna SI 1500 on pink pads

Step 2: Menzerna PO85RD on black pads

Step 1: Optimum Spray Compound on orange pads

Step 2: Optimum Spray Polish on white pads

Step 1: Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 on orange pads

Step 2: Poorboy's World SSR 1 on white pads

Popular 3 Step Combinations:

Step 1: Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on orange pads

Step 2: Menzerna PO106FA on white pads
Step 3: Menzerna PO85RD on black pads

Step 1: Menzerna Power Gloss on yellow pads or purple foamed wool pads
Step 2: Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on orange pads

Step 3: Menzerna PO106FA on white pads

Step 1: Meguiar's M105 Compound on orange pads

Step 2: Meguiar's M205 Polish on white pads
Step 3: Menzerna PO85RD on black pads

Step 1: Poorboy's World SSR 3 on yellow pads or purple foamed wool pads
Step 2: Poorboy's World SSR 2.5 on orange pads
Step 3: Poorboy's World SSR 1 on white pads

How-To Polish
Properly polishing your paint to remove imperfections can take lots of practice to master, but if you follow these steps as closely
as possible, you'll get the best results in the shortest amount of time. Before you polish your vehicle, the paint should already be
washed and clayed for maximum results.

Proper Lighting
In order to know if you are getting the results you are looking for when polishing, it is extremely important to invest in quality
lighting. One of the most cost effective light sources you can purchase is a handheld light gun by Brinkmann. Using the proper
lighting will reveal imperfections in your paint and give you a clear understanding if the polishing combination you selected is
going to give you the results you'll be looking for. Read this indepth article on the differences between the two Brinkmann lights
for more information.

Caring for Pads

As you polish and your pads become saturated with product, you are going to want to swap them out for fresh pads after every
couple of panels. To maximize the life of your pads, it's highly advised to keep a 5 gallon bucket of water with some Snappy
Clean solution mixed in. As you are done with a pad, simply put it in the bucket to begin soaking to release and dissolve the
polish right away. This will help keep your pads in like new condition without much work. When you are done letting the pads
soak in the solution, take them out and blast them with a stream of water from your hose or pressure washer. Allow them to
completely dry and store them in a labeled Ziploc bag with the product you used with the pad. It is best practice to only use 1
product per pad.

Taping
To help reduce the risk of damaging any part of your vehicle, it is best to tape off the areas you want to protect. By properly
taping, it also allows you to get as close to trim pieces as possible without damaging them. There are many quality options on
the market but we recommend the Meguiar's Professional Masking Tape. This will release easily from your paint with little to no
residue left behind and is easy to clean up. We recommend taping off any area you do not want to polish or get any product on.
Common areas to tape are your trim pieces, around emblems, headlights, tail lights, around clear bras, and more. When in
doubt, tape it up, it's better to prevent a problem than to create one.

Porter Cable 7424

Step 1: Attach the appropriate backing plate to the Porter Cable buffer
Step 2: Center your pad on the backing plate
Step 3: Apply several pea sized drops of polish on the outer edge of the pad (apply a few extra drops to a fresh pad
Step 4: Visualize your working area, starting with a small 12" x 12" box on a horizontal surface
Step 5: Trace your working area with the polish on your pad with the buffer off
Step 6: Turn the buffer on a low speed setting (1 - 3) and spread the polish evenly through the entire 12" x 12" working
area
Step 7: Turn the speed dial of the buffer up to 5 or 6 and start in a corner of your 12" x 12" working area
Step 8: Begin to apply roughly 15 - 20 lbs of pressure on the head of the buffer
Step 9: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at a pace of 1" per second while exerting the 15 - 20 lbs of
pressure
Step 10: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass
by approximately 50%
Step 11: Continue this pattern until you have polished your entire 12" x 12" working area

Step 12: Polish the area again, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to
top the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 13: Polish the area the same as you did the first time, but this time use slightly less pressure
Step 14: If the polish is broken down (usually looks like a clear milky haze), shut the buffer off
Step 15: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the broken down polish from the paint
Step 16: Assess your work with your light source to ensure you have achieved the results you were looking for
Step 17: Repeat steps 3 through 16 until the entire vehicle has been polished

Note: After every couple of panels, replace your pad with a fresh one for maximum results. If you are working with a limited
number of pads, clean out the pad after every few sections using a medium bristled toothbrush and the buffer on a low speed
(do this away from the car as it can potentially dust quite a bit).

Flex XC3401VRG
Step 1: Center your pad on the backing plate of your Flex XC 3401 VRG buffer
Step 2: Apply several pea sized drops of polish on the outer edge of the pad (apply a few extra drops to a fresh pad
Step 3: Visualize your working area, starting with a small 12" x 12" box on a horizontal surface
Step 4: Trace your working area with the polish on your pad with the buffer off
Step 5: Set the speed dial to your desired working speed (between 4 and 6 is recommended)
Step 6: Using the variable speed trigger, spread the product around your 12" x 12" working area at a low speed
Step 7: Starting in one corner of your working area, pull the trigger to full speed and lock in your speed
Step 8: Begin to apply roughly 15 - 20 lbs of pressure on the head of the buffer
Step 9: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at a pace of 1" - 2" per second while exerting the 15 - 20 lbs
of pressure
Step 10: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass
by approximately 50%
Step 11: Continue this pattern until you have polished your entire 12" x 12" working area
Step 12: Polish the area again, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to
top the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 13: Polish the area the same as you did the first time, but this time use slightly less pressure
Step 14: If the polish is broken down (usually looks like a clear milky haze), shut the buffer off
Step 15: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the broken down polish from the paint
Step 16: Assess your work with your light source to ensure you have achieved the results you were looking for
Step 17: Repeat steps 2 through 16 until the entire vehicle has been polished

Note: After every couple of panels, replace your pad with a fresh one for maximum results. If you are working with a limited
number of pads, clean out the pad after every few sections using a medium bristled toothbrush and the buffer on a low speed
(do this away from the car as it can potentially dust quite a bit).

Makita 9227C
Step 1: Attach the appropriate backing plate to the Makita buffer
Step 2: Center your pad on the backing plate
Step 3: Apply several pea sized drops of polish on the outer edge of the pad (apply a few extra drops to a fresh pad
Step 4: Visualize your working area, starting with a small 12" x 12" box on a horizontal surface
Step 5: Trace your working area with the polish on your pad with the buffer off
Step 6: Turn the buffer on the lowest speed setting and spread the polish evenly through the entire 12" x 12" working area
Step 7: Turn the speed dial of the buffer up to a comfortable working speed (between 1000 - 1500 RPMs is common)
Step 8: Very little pressure is needed when using a rotary buffer, try to use just a hair more than the weight of the buffer
Step 9: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at a pace of 2" - 3" per second while making sure you always
keep the buffer moving
Step 10: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass
by approximately 50%
Step 11: Continue this pattern until you have polished your entire 12" x 12" working area
Step 12: Polish the area again, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to
top the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 13: Polish the area the same as you did the first time, but this time use even less pressure
Step 14: If the polish is broken down (usually looks like a clear milky haze), shut the buffer off
Step 15: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the broken down polish from the paint
Step 16: Assess your work with your light source to ensure you have achieved the results you were looking for
Step 17: Repeat steps 3 through 16 until the entire vehicle has been polished

Note: After every couple of panels, replace your pad with a fresh one for maximum results. If you are working with a limited
number of pads, clean out the pad after every few sections using a medium bristled toothbrush and the buffer on a low speed
(do this away from the car as it can potentially dust quite a bit).

Hand Polishing

Step 1: If you are using the Polishing Pal select the desired pad and center it on the Polishing Pal
Step 2: Apply a few pea sized drops of polish to the face of a clean pad (when the pad is new you can apply a few extra
drops)
Step 3: Spread the product over a 18" x 18" area or less with extremely light pressure to distribute the product evenly
Step 4: Work the polish in with medium to firm pressure in a circular motion
Step 5: Overlap each pass by 50% working left to right and then up and down
Step 6: Remove the excess product immediately or within a few minutes with a clean microfiber towel
Step 7: Assess your work with your light source to ensure you have achieved the results you were looking for
Step 8: Repeat steps 1 through 7 until the entire vehicle has been polished

Upon completion the paint should have less swirls, oxidation and other surface imperfections. With a more optically clear
surface you will now get a deeper gloss and a better shine. Additionally your sealant or wax used afterward will bond to this
cleaner and smoother surface better so you can expect increased durability from the protection.

Facts and Tips

The smaller the section you work in, the better your results will be
Do not rush the polishing process, it is very time consuming but the results are worth it
When using a random orbital or dual action buffer, apply roughly 15 - 20 lbs of pressure
Always match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad
Swap out your pad for a fresh one every couple of panels for maximum results
Keep a bucket of water and Snappy Clean solution by your side to soak your pads as soon as you are done
Using the proper lighting when polishing is important to assess your results accurately
Smaller pads offer you more control and can get in tighter areas
Larger pads can spread products quickly, which is great when applying a sealant
Rotary buffers should be used by experienced detailers and professionals
Tape off your trim, glass, and any other area you do not want polish to potentially damage
Use 3 pea sized drops of polish per working area, many detailers use too much product

Related Articles
Here are a few articles related to Polishing from our Ask-a-Pro Detailer Blog:

Polishing How to With Meguiars m105 & m205

Ask-A-Pro Removing Water Spots From the Paint
Tutorial: How to Prep a Car for Polishing
Polishing With the 4 Spot Pad for Better Results
1 Step, 2 Step, The various Types of Polishing Process
Full Wet Sanding of 2005 Acura RL in Nighthawk Black Pearl to Reduce Orange Peel
How Much Polish Should I Use on My Pad
Meguiars DA Microfiber Polishing System
Assessing Paint Condition and Deciding on a Correction Process
Video: Surbuf Pads, m105 and the Porter Cable 7424xp

View all Polishing articles

What's Next?
After polishing your paint to your liking, the clear coat is more optically clear and you'll get a much deeper reflection. It should
look more vibrant and feel smoother to the touch. After that, your next step could be to use a glaze, sealant or wax. These
products will help enhance the appearance of the surface and the sealant and wax can protect it.

18

Glaze

Overview
A glaze is often an optional step of the detailing process, but when used correctly can help add an additional layer of gloss and
depth to the paint. Glazes are essentially polishes that leave behind oils, kaolin clay or some other substance that is designed to
increase the depth and gloss while being able to mask or hide some minor imperfections in the paint. Glazes are great products
to use right before a car show as it can help increase the depth and gloss, especially on lighter colored vehicles where this is
often hard to accomplish. One of the downsides of using a glaze is that it may reduce a sealant or waxes ability to bond to the
paint with it's maximum potential. The sealant and wax will still protect very well, it just may not last quite as long as it would if it
was used on the bare paint.
Many people's expectations are often too high when it comes to a glaze filling in minor imperfections. If your car is filled with
swirls and scratches, you are much better off investing in a polish to remove the marks, which is also a permanent fix, the
results from a glaze are temporary. Your car should be washed, clayed, and polished prior to using a glaze for optimal results.

Frequency
It's never absolutely necessary to apply a glaze so it can be done as little as you would like or as much as you would like. For
best results we recommend applying a glaze during a full detail, therefore it would be after washing, clay and polishing and
before your sealant and/or wax. At a minimum make sure the vehicle has been freshly washed, apply the glaze and lastly apply
the sealant and/or wax of your choice.

How-To Apply a Glaze

When using a buffer to apply a glaze, we recommend using a black finishing pad.

Porter Cable 7424 XP

Step 1: Center your black pad on the backing plate
Step 2: Apply 3 pea sized drops of glaze in a triangular pattern towards the outer edge of the pad
Step 3: Visualize your working area, something between 18" x 18" and 24" x 24"
Step 4: Trace your working area with the glaze on your pad with the buffer off
Step 5: Turn the buffer on a low speed setting (1 - 3) and spread the glaze evenly through the entire working area
Step 6: Turn the speed dial of the buffer up to approximately 4 and start in a corner of your working area
Step 7: Begin to apply a light amount of pressure (approximately 5 lbs) on the head of the buffer
Step 8: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at controlled pace (approximately 3" - 5" per second)
Step 9: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass by
approximately 50%
Step 10: Continue this pattern until you have applied the glaze to your entire working area
Step 11: Repeat this process, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to top
the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 12: Once the glaze is worked into the paint, shut the buffer off
Step 13: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the glaze from the paint
Step 14: Repeat steps 2 through 13 until the entire vehicle has the glaze applied

Step 1: Center your black pad on the backing plate

Step 2: Apply 3 pea sized drops of glaze in a triangular pattern towards the outer edge of the pad
Step 3: Visualize your working area, something between 18" x 18" and 24" x 24"
Step 4: Trace your working area with the glaze on your pad with the buffer off
Step 5: Set the buffer to your desired work speed (usually between 2 - 3 is recommended)
Step 6: Using the variable speed trigger, spread the product around your working area at a low speed
Step 7: Begin to apply a light amount of pressure (approximately 5 lbs) on the head of the buffer
Step 8: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at controlled pace (approximately 5" per second)
Step 9: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass by
approximately 50%
Step 10: Continue this pattern until you have applied the glaze to your entire working area
Step 11: Repeat this process, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to top
the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 12: Once the glaze is worked into the paint, shut the buffer off
Step 13: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the glaze from the paint
Step 14: Repeat steps 2 through 13 until the entire vehicle has the glaze applied

Makita 9227C
Step 1: Attach the appropriate backing plate to the Makita buffer
Step 2: Center your black pad on the backing plate
Step 3: Apply 3 pea sized drops of polish in a triangular pattern towards the outer edge of the pad
Step 4: Visualize your working area, somewhere between 18" x 18" and 24" x 24"
Step 5: Trace your working area with the polish on your pad with the buffer off
Step 6: Turn the buffer on the lowest speed setting and spread the glaze evenly through the working area
Step 7: Turn the speed dial of the buffer up to a comfortable working speed (between 700 - 900 RPMs is common)
Step 8: Very little to no added pressure when applying the glaze
Step 9: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at a pace of 5" - 6" per second while making sure you always
keep the buffer moving
Step 10: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass
by approximately 50%
Step 11: Continue this pattern until you have polished your entire working area
Step 12: Polish the area again, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to
top the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 13: Once the glaze is worked into the paint, shut the buffer off
Step 14: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the excess glaze from the paint
Step 15: Repeat steps 3 through 14 until the entire vehicle has the glaze applied

Hand Application

Step 1: Dispense about 2 pea sized drops in the center of the foam hand applicator pad
Step 2: Outline your 18" x 18" working area
Step 3: Gently spread the glaze thinly and evenly in your working area
Step 4: Using light pressure work the glaze into the paint using overlapping circular motions
Step 5: Wait 2 - 5 minutes then use a clean microfiber towel to remove the excess glaze
Step 6: Repeat steps 1 through 5 until the entire vehicle has the glaze applied

Facts and Tips

Glazes can help increase the depth and gloss in the paint
The filling of light imperfections is only temporary and will return over time
Do not expect a glaze to fill in too many imperfections, only the slightest imperfection can be masked
Glazes typically cannot be layered, so only one coat is necessary for maximum results

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Product Guide and Review: Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze KSG
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What's Next?
After applying the glaze to your paint, the next step is to protect the exterior paint. This can be done with a sealant or wax or a
combination of both. If you want to apply both apply the sealant first and layer the wax on after.

21

Sealant

Overview
The primary purpose of a sealant is to properly protect your vehicle from the elements. Sealants are designed to bond to your
paint and provide roughly 3 to 6 months of protection. This is significantly longer protection than what a carnauba wax offers,
which is typically 3 to 8 weeks. The barrier of protection that sealants provide help minimize contamination from embedding in to
your paint and makes maintaining your vehicle significantly easier. Another benefit of a sealant is that it will enhance the look of
your paint by giving you sharper reflections and more depth and gloss.

Layering and Cure Times

Applying multiple coats will increase the strength of the protection and durability of the protection. The most important thing to
note is that when you want to apply more than one coat, you have to let the previous coat cure. Each sealant's cure time will
vary and environmental conditions (i.e. temperature, humidity, etc.) can impact cure times. Most sealants will cure within 1 - 24
hours and the vast majority of any sealant will be cured within the first hour. If you have the time waiting 24 hours is ideal to be
absolutely certain but if you are in a rush waiting a minimum of one hour should still work very well for most sealants.

Frequency
In general, sealants typically last between 3 to 6 months. There are many factors that go into determining how long a sealant will
last. Some of the major factors are if your car is stored in a garage or outside, how many miles are driven, the type of weather
conditions your vehicle is exposed to, how well your paint was prepped prior to applying the sealant, the frequency of washing
your vehicle, and type of shampoo. The key is to reapply your coat of protection before the previous coat runs out. As you
maintain your vehicle, keep an eye out for how well the water beads and sheets off your paint. If water begins to pool on your
paint, then chances are there is little to no protection remaining and it's advised to apply another coat of sealant. A good rule of
thumb is to reapply a coat of sealant once a season (4 times a year).

How-To Apply a Sealant

The key when applying a sealant is to stretch the product as thin and far as possible. The saying "less is more" definitely applies
to any quality sealant. We do not recommend applying a sealant with a rotary buffer, but it is fine to use a random orbital or dual
action buffer using a soft foam polishing pad. Hand applications also work very well and help you get in to tight spaces more
effectively.

Porter Cable 7424 XP

Step 1: Center your blue pad on the backing plate

Step 2: Apply 2 pea sized drops of your sealant on the pad (fresh pads may require a few extra drops)
Step 3: Visualize your working area, since you're spreading the product as far as possible, it can be as large as a panel
Step 4: Trace your working area with the sealant on your pad with the buffer off
Step 5: Turn the buffer on a low speed setting (1 - 3) and spread the sealant evenly through the entire working area
Step 6: Turn the speed dial of the buffer up to approximately 3 and start in a corner of your working area

Step 7: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at controlled pace (approximately 3" - 5" per second) using
no additional pressure
Step 8: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass by
approximately 50%
Step 9: Continue this pattern until you have applied the sealant to your entire working area
Step 10: Repeat this process, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to top
the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 11: Once the sealant is spread thinly and evenly over the paint, shut the buffer off
Step 12: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the sealant from the paint
Step 13: Repeat steps 2 through 12 until the entire vehicle has the sealant applied

Flex XC 3401 VRG

Step 1: Center your blue pad on the backing plate
Step 2: Apply 2 pea sized drops of your sealant on the pad (fresh pads may require a few extra drops)
Step 3: Visualize your working area, since you're spreading the product as far as possible, it can be as large as a panel
Step 4: Trace your working area with the sealant on your pad with the buffer off
Step 5: Turn the buffer on a low speed setting (1 - 3) and spread the sealant evenly through the entire working area
Step 6: Turn the speed dial of the buffer up to approximately 3 and start in a corner of your working area
Step 7: Working from one corner to the next, move the buffer at controlled pace (approximately 3" - 5" per second) using
no additional pressure
Step 8: Once you reach the opposite corner, follow the same path back to where you started, but overlap your first pass by
approximately 50%
Step 9: Continue this pattern until you have applied the sealant to your entire working area
Step 10: Repeat this process, but this time use the opposite direction (if you were working top to bottom then bottom to top
the first time around, change it to left to right and right to left overlapping movements)
Step 11: Once the sealant is spread thinly and evenly over the paint, shut the buffer off
Step 12: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the sealant from the paint
Step 13: Repeat steps 2 through 12 until the entire vehicle has the sealant applied

Hand Application

Step 1: Dispense about 2 pea sized drops in the center of the foam hand applicator pad
Step 2: Outline your working area, since you're spreading the product as far as possible, it can be as large as a panel
Step 3: Gently spread the sealant as thinly and evenly in your working area
Step 4: Using light pressure spread the sealant on the paint using overlapping circular motions
Step 5: Wait 10 - 20 minutes then use a clean microfiber towel to remove the excess sealant
Step 6: Repeat steps 1 through 5 until the entire vehicle has the sealant applied

Facts and Tips

In general, sealants last somewhere between 3 to 6 months

When applying a sealant, it's best to spread it as thin as possible
In general, you should give each coat of sealant at least 1 hour to cure and bond to the paint
Sealants can be layered to increase the depth and gloss as well as protection
Sealants can be topped with a wax to get the best of both worlds in terms of looks and durability

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The Multi Purposefull Klasse AIO, Why You Need a Bottle

Product Guide and Review: Klasse High Glosse Sealant Glaze KSG
Product Review: Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant
Product Review: Menzerna Power Lock Sealant
Product Review: Optimum Opti Seal Spray Sealant
Cure Times for Sealants and Waxes
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Field Test on Wifes Car With Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109

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What's Next?
After applying a sealant, it's best to let the coat cure for at least one hour before applying a second coat or a wax. You may opt
to top your sealant with a carnauba wax to help increase the depth and gloss in the paint. Natural carnauba waxes also tend to
bead water better than sealants, so maintaining your vehicle is slightly easier when it is protected by a carnauba wax.

24

Wax

Overview
Carnauba waxes are a great way to protect your vehicle against the elements. Carnauba waxes often offer stronger protection
than sealants do, but will not last as long. Waxes typically last 3 to 8 weeks, where a sealant can last up to 6 months. Carnauba
waxes often bead water better than sealants, which makes your vehicle easier to maintain. Carnauba waxes are what you want
to use when you want the absolute wettest finish possible.

Layering and Cure Times

Applying multiple coats or layers of wax can add more protection, gloss and shine to the surface. When you want to apply more
than one coat, you have to let the previous coat fully cure. Assuming you apply the wax nice and thin, the cure times will range
from 1 - 24 hours. The exact time will vary depending on the specific wax, how it was applied, temperature, humidity, etc.

Frequency
In general, carnauba waxes will last anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks. There are many factors that go into determining how long a
wax will last. Some of the major factors are if your car is stored in a garage or outside, how many miles are driven, the type of
weather conditions your vehicle is exposed to, how well your paint was prepped prior to applying the wax, the frequency of
washing your vehicle, and type of shampoo. The key is to re-apply your coat of protection before the previous coat runs out. As
you maintain your vehicle, keep an eye out for how well the water beads and sheets off your paint. If water begins to pool and
look flat on your paint, then chances are there is little to no protection remaining and it's advised to apply another coat of wax. A
good rule of thumb is to re-apply a carnauba once a month (12 times a year).

How-To Apply a Paste Wax

Step 1: Using a clean foam applicator pad, gently wipe it across the top of the paste wax (for a harder paste wax you may
need to exert more pressure in a circular motion)
Step 2: Make sure you only have a very thin amount on your applicator pad
Step 3: You can apply the wax with light pressure in a circular, back and forth and/or up and down motion, remember to
stretch the wax nice and thin
Step 4: Wait 10 - 20 minutes before you buff off the excess wax with a clean microfiber towel
Step 5: Repeat steps 1 through 4 until your entire vehicle has been waxed

Facts and Tips

Carnauba waxes typically last between 3 to 8 weeks

Apply your wax as thin as possible, only a microscopic layer of wax actually sits on your paint, excess wax is just wasted
In general you should give each coat of wax 1 to 24 hours cure time
It is best to work in the shade when applying and removing a wax
Most waxes can benefit from 2 to 3 layers for maximum depth and gloss
When your paint stops beading water, it is time to reapply a coat of wax

Related Articles
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What's Next?
After applying your wax, it is best to allow the coat to cure for 1 - 24 hours before topping it with another coat of wax. If you are
done applying the wax congratulations on completing your detail work! Mark on your calendar when you completed this detail
and create a maintenance schedule for yourself. You can now move on to the interior, exterior trim, wheel and tire care or the
engine bay care section.

26

Microfiber

Overview
Microfiber products are absolutely essential to high quality detailing for both the interior and exterior of any vehicle. Microfiber
towels, applicators, wash mitts and pads are used in virtually every area of detailing. You may use microfiber products to clean
the paint, leather, wheels, glass, interior and so much more. The uses are literally endless so you can never have enough top
quality microfiber products.
People often will splurge on their wax but spend far less on microfiber products when they are truly the backbone of a good
detail. Investing in quality towels and caring for them will greatly increase your results while saving you time and money in the
long run. The life of your microfiber products will vary based on the quality of the towel and how well you care for them. Not all
microfiber towels are created equal so low quality towels may feel nice at first but they often break down rapidly with just a few
washes. At DetailedImage.com we take great pride in selecting only top quality towels that will last for years with good care.
Microfiber is made up of a unique blend of materials with an innovative weave and fiber designs made of ultra fine synthetic
yarn. The synthetic yarn is usually comprised of 70% - 80% polyester with 20% - 30% polyamide depending on the specific
towel. Each strand is approximately 0.2 denier, which is equivalent to 1/20th of a strand of silk or 1/100th of a human hair. The
cross section of a microfiber strand resembles an asterisk (*), which allows them to collect and trap particles whereas traditional
towels push particles around or temporarily collect them. On dry surfaces the microfiber towels use electrostatic energy to easily
lift and collect large amounts of dust, dirt and other particles in to the micro-wedges of each fiber.

Microfiber Care
Generally we recommend you maintain three groups of towels, storing them in separate containers. The first group is the
pristine new towels that you use on the most sensitive surfaces such as the exterior paint, gages, navigation screens, etc. The
second group are towels still in great condition but may be a bit worn, which we use for interior cleanings, glass care, leather
treatments, etc. All other towels in the third group may have visible stains and be noticeably worn down. Use these towels for
your dirty jobs like cleaning the exhaust tips, engine bay detailing, door jambs, etc.
When you receive your towels you should wash them just to ensure they are clean and free from any contaminants they may
have come in contact with while in transit. Before washing any microfiber make sure you have removed any stickers or labels
that come on some new microfiber towels. Never wash microfiber towels with any other fabrics as the microfiber towels will
collect the lint, which can greatly reduce the effectiveness of any microfiber product. Microfiber is virtually free of lint so you can
wash them with other microfiber products only. Do not use any detergent with fabric softener or bleach in it. Using fabric
softener will deposit a coating on the microfiber strands that clogs the pores, which reduces absorbency, cleaning ability and
can lead to streaking. If you are not sure what to use you can pick up the DI Microfiber Micro-Restore Microfiber Detergent
Concentrate, which has no fabric softener, bleach or added scent. If you are looking for additional cleaning power you can add
one teaspoon per towel of distilled white vinegar.
When you are done washing the towels you can air dry them to be extra cautious, however many detailers need the help of a
dryer due to time constraints which is generally fine. Do not use any dryer sheets and make sure you have cleaned the lint filter
and removed any other lint particles. Again the microfiber towels will collect lint from other fabrics so do not dry it with other
fabrics. Try to use just enough heat to dry the towels and do not overheat the towels. Excessive amounts of heat can harm the
long term health of the towel.
As mentioned above the towels should be separated and stored according to their condition and we generally recommend three
groups. Put them in an air tight storage container like a zip lock bag (i.e. DI Accessories Reclosable Storage Bag) or a

rubbermaid container that is labeled to avoid dust and dirt settling on your recently cleaned towels. Remember micorfiber
products have a natural electrostatic charge and will literally pull contaminants in so it's very important to store them properly.

Facts and Tips

Always remove any tags on microfiber products to minimize the risk of marring the paint
Always wash new microfiber towels prior to using them for the first time
Never use fabric softener when washing or drying your towels
Group your towels together, such as paint safe towels, wheel and tire towels, interior towels, etc.
Adding distilled white vinegar to your rinse cycle can help further clean your microfiber
If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to dissolve product and reopen the pores
Store your clean microfiber towels in labeled microfiber storage bags
Always wash your microfiber with microfiber, avoid mixing them with other fabrics

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28

Wheel and Tire

Wheel Care Overview

Wheels can drastically change the appearance of any vehicle, which is proven by the huge after market offering. Having wheels
covered in brake dust is a complete eye sore and can take away from the overall look of any vehicle. Wheels that look brand
new, on the other hand, can turn heads and really show off your car. Properly caring for your wheels is not difficult or time
consuming when maintained on a regular basis.
Caring for your wheels consists of properly removing contamination, polishing them to a high shine, then protecting them to
make maintaining your wheels significantly easier. Stubborn brake dust can often be difficult to remove, but usually can be
restored to a like new finish with the proper products and tools.

Wheel Care Frequency

We recommend maintaining your wheels with a basic wash of soap and water with a dedicated wash mitt, every time you clean
your vehicle (1 to 2 weeks). Thorough cleaning of your wheels and adding layer(s) of protection should be done every 2 to 3
months.

Wheel Care How-To

When caring for your wheels it is important that you have the proper products and tools. It is also important to know what type of
wheels you have so you use the proper products on them. If you have factory alloy wheels, chances are they have a layer of
clear coat on your wheels. This makes things easy because you can use a variety of wheel cleaners without worrying about
oxidizing your wheels finish. You can also treat them like you would your clear coat on your paint, which means you can wash,
clay, polish and protect your wheels. After market or upgraded wheels that have a high polished finish or bare metal need to be
treated carefully, otherwise you may oxidize the finish and potentially damage your wheels.
Your wheels should be completely cool when you start to clean them. If you have been out driving, even just a little bit, give
them ample time to cool down before using any cleaner on them. You can spray them down with water to help them cool down
but it may take some additional time for them to reach air temperature so you can begin cleaning. Clean the wheels in the shade
whenever possible to avoid water marks or rinse them frequently while in direct sunlight.

Clean and Maintain

The best way to clean and maintain your wheels is by using some automotive shampoo and water with a dedicated wash mitt.
This is safe for every type of wheel finish and also means you are not spending money on wheel cleaners. This is a very
effective way to care for your wheels if you follow two things 1) maintaining your wheels on a regular basis 2) you have a coating
of protection on your wheels.
Soap and water will help remove loose contaminants and clean wheels that are well maintained but often times stubborn build
ups will require a wheel cleaner. The safest bet is to use a pH balanced (aka pH neutral) wheel cleaner, such as P21S Gel
Wheel Cleaner or the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect. They can be used on any type of wheel finish and you can increase
the cleaning power by letting the product dwell for several minutes if you are in the shade. Acidic wheel cleaners are highly

effective but they can easily oxidize or tarnish polished wheels and other sensitive wheel finishes. Acidic wheel cleaners should
only be used on factory wheels with a thick clear coat on them. When you are done rinse the wheels with a steady stream of
water, be especially thorough near the lug nuts. If you see any remaining stains spot treat them with the same cleaner and a
soft cloth or a wheel safe brush. Using a nylon brush or a brush with very stiff bristles can add swirls to the finish of the wheel,
so look for brushes with very soft bristles or natural fibers. If you still have some remaining stains try a quality metal polish,
which can generally be applied to most bare metals and clear coated wheels, see below (Polishing Wheels) for more
information.
To effectively clean the inner barrels of your wheels, we highly recommend investing in an EZ Detail Brush. If you have
protected your inner barrels with some protection (chances are you needed to do this with the wheels off of the vehicle) then
you can dip the brush in soap and water and brake dust should come off very easily. If your wheels were not protected, spray
some wheel cleaner on the inner parts of your wheels as well as your EZ Detail Brush to get a deeper clean. We recommend
cleaning the inner barrels of your wheels first because when you pull the bristles back out, it can transfer some dirt and
contamination on the face of your wheels.
Using a clay bar on your wheels is an effective way to properly prep the surface and remove stubborn brake dust. Be careful
using one on high polished wheels as you could add micro-marring or swirls that can be difficult to remove.

Polish
Polishing your wheels can help increase the depth and gloss of your wheels as well as remove minor surface imperfections. If
your wheels have a clear coat on them, then you can treat them the same as you would polishing your paint. If your wheels
consist of bare metal, such as the lip of your wheel, you can polish them using a metal polish to increase gloss and depth and
remove minor imperfections.
How-To Polish Wheels

Step 1: Dispense a pea sized drop of metal polish on a foam applicator pad
Step 2: Using as little pressure as possible, spread the polish thinly over the area you wish to polish
Step 3: Starting with light pressure work the polish into the wheel, increasing pressure as needed
Step 4: Continue working the polish into the wheel until the polish turns to a clear milky haze
Step 5: Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the broken down polish
Step 6: Repeat steps 1 through 5 until the entire wheel has been polished

Note: Always test your polish on a small inconspicuous area before polishing your entire wheel.

Protect
When it comes to keeping your wheels looking like new for long periods of time you want to make sure your wheels are always
protected. While you can use a sealant or wax to protect your wheels, there are some products that are designed specifically for
your wheels. Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant is our favorite wheel protectant as it is easy to apply and remove, leaves behind a
super slick surface so brake dust slides right off, is designed to withstand high temperatures that brakes produce, increases the
depth and gloss of your wheels and makes cleaning your wheels a breeze.

Wheel Care Facts and Tips

Maintain your wheels with shampoo and water with a dedicated wash media
Keeping a coating of protection on your wheels will make maintaining them significantly easier
Always use a pH balanced wheel cleaner when dealing with after market wheels
Acidic based wheel cleaners can easily oxidize a high polished finish
Using a clay bar can effectively prep your wheels for polishing and protecting
Polishing your wheels can increase the depth and gloss as well as remove some imperfections
Protecting your wheels with a sealant is the key to easy maintenance on your wheels

Tire Care Overview

Caring for your tires means more than just slapping on some tire dressing and calling it a day. A lot of detailing enthusiasts do
not understand the importance of properly prepping your tires before applying a dressing. Properly prepping your tires can help
increase the durability of your dressing and minimize tire dressing sling.
There are various types of tire dressing on the market: water based and silicone based. Water based tire dressings get

absorbed into your rubber and can actually nourish your rubber keeping them soft and flexible. Silicone based tire dressings
mainly sit on the surface of your tire, which often leads to tire dressing sling. Silicone based dressings can dry out your rubber
and also brown it over time. Silicone based dressings are typically glossier than water based dressings.

Tire Care Frequency

We recommend dressing your tires after each wash (every 1 to 2 weeks). The condition of your tires will determine if they need
to be cleaned and prepped. If you wash your tires and there is still dirt and contamination, we recommend using a degreaser on
your tires to clean them and strip off any previous tire dressing. If you have high polished wheels, make sure the tire cleaner is
safe for your wheel finish, in case you get product on them.

Tire Care How-To

Cleaning your tires is pretty simple. We recommend using a dedicated wash mitt or sponge (foam media tends to work better
since it's more durable) for your wheels and tires. Wash them with soap and water and assess if they need a deeper cleaning. If
you are looking to get the most out of your dressing, we recommend cleaning your tires with a degreaser, such as P21S Total
Auto Wash, and a firm brush. Soak your tires with the degreaser and allow it to penetrate for a couple of minutes. Scrub your
tires with the brush to remove the heavy contamination.
Applying the tire dressing is pretty straight forward. Simply dispense some tire dressing onto an applicator pad and work it into
your tires. You want to use as little product as possible to prevent sling onto your paint. You are better off applying multiple thin
coats of tire dressing than one thick coat. For complete even coverage, move your vehicle forward or backwards to apply
dressing on the part of the tire that was closest to the ground.

Tire Care Facts and Tips

Silicone based tire dressings have a higher tendency to sling up onto your paint
Water based tire dressings get absorbed into your tires and nourish your rubber
Properly prepping your tires prior to applying a dressing can increase durability and prevent tire dressing sling
Always apply your tire dressing in thin, even coats
Drive your vehicle a few feet forward after applying the first coat of dressing so you can get an even application on the part
of the tire that was closest to the ground

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31

Exterior Trim

Overview
Your exterior trim is constantly exposed to the elements, but it often doesn't receive the same care you provide your exterior
paint. We encourage you to make sure you do not neglect this area as it is very important to the end result. When the trim is
cleaned and protected it helps create a sharp contrast with your paint for a stunning appearance when you are done. Paying
attention to these areas is what helps separate a good detail from an outstanding detail.

Frequency
If you maintain your vehicle on a regular basis the trim should be relatively clean to begin with. Every one to three months we
recommend using a light degreaser to ensure it's thoroughly cleaned. For protection we normally recommend re-applying the
protectant every one to two months. The cleaner will help remove stubborn build ups and the protectant will provide a beautiful
finish with UV protection. If you haven't cared for the trim in a while spend a little extra time cleaning the surface with at least
one to two passes. If the trim looks severely neglected you may want to consider using one of our products designed to restore
the trim.

How-To Treat Trim

Caring for the trim starts off with a cleaning and then you should assess the condition of the trim afterward. Most trim is vinyl,
plastic or rubber so you can generally use the same type of cleaner on all three of these surfaces. Always clean the trim first
while washing the vehicle with your shampoo and wash mitt. For a deeper cleaning spray a light degreasing solution on a
microfiber towel and wipe the trim with medium pressure. The P21S Total Auto Wash is a popular choice because it's citrus
based degreaser that is very gentle yet highly effective. When you are done the trim should look and feel much cleaner. If you
still have stubborn build ups you can use a brush to work in the degreaser, but be careful you don't brush the surrounding paint.
If you have dried polish, sealant or wax on your trim (vinyl, plastic and rubber) try restoring it with the Poorboy's Trim Restorer.
It's a deep cleaning formula that also dresses the trim with a dark and rich glow. Apply a few drops no larger than the size of a
nickel to a microfiber towel or applicator and work it in to the surface with medium pressure back and forth. It will help remove
the stubborn stains and leave a dark and shiny finish behind.
If your trim is clean but looks dull try using a product that will actually re-apply some of the lost color. The TUF SHINE Black
Restore Kit or the Black WOW are both great options that will help restore the trim to like new. Each of them are powerful
formulas that can help bring back that like new appearance that really lasts. They are both popular on vinyl, plastic and rubber
surfaces.
For well maintained trim you will only need to use a protectant on it that you simply wipe on. A good protectant will provide
strong UV protection and a fresh appearance to the trim. The 303 Aerospace Protectant offers superior UV protection and a
nice dark finish that is not glossy or oily, so it's very popular amongst detailing enthusiasts. Spray a light coating on a clean
applicator or towel and wipe the trim back and forth. A nice light coating provides the best results and within minutes it will be
dry to the touch. The 303 Aerospace Protectant and most protectants can be applied to vinyl, rubber, plastic and more.

Facts and Tips

Having properly cleaned and dressed trim creates more contrast with your paint
For best results, degrease your trim prior to applying a dressing
Make sure you are using a dressing that provides UV protection to prevent fading
Using a brush can help provide a deeper cleaning to your trim pieces
Old wax build ups can be removed with a degreaser

Related Articles
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Ask A Pro: How to Remove Excess Polish From Crevices

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Headlight Restoration Process
How to Remove Dried on Wax from Textured Black Plastic or Rubber Moldings
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Removing Polish and Wax From Rubber Trim
Exhaust Tip Detailing

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33

Glass

Overview
Caring for your glass is not only important for aesthetics but it's also critical for driving safely. If too much glass cleaner is left on
the glass you can expect to see streaking and hazing which can be a detriment to your vision. This can be especially dangerous
when driving in the evening so make sure you take the time to clean your glass properly. We understand that streaks are
common and very frustrating but don't worry we'll show you the products and techniques needed for streak free glass cleanings.

Frequency
You should care for your glass on an as needed basis to ensure you always have the best visibility when driving.

Interior Glass How-To

To get the most out of your glass cleaning both for the exterior and interior, the first thing you should do is roll your windows
down a couple of inches so you can clean the very top of the glass effectively. Many detailers forget to do this step and if you
drive with the windows partially down afterward you may see this area you missed. Follow the same technique that is outlined
below for best results. We also recommend that you spray a light degreaser (i.e. P21S Total Auto Wash) on a cloth and wipe the
inside and outside edges of the window seal to ensure that it is clean.
When caring for interior glass you are usually dealing with different problems than your exterior glass. Interior glass can be
subject to bodily oils from people touching windows, product over spray from treating your trim pieces, smoke residue and most
commonly moisture from simply breathing inside the vehicle. While reaching certain parts of interior glass may be difficult, caring
for the glass is pretty straight forward.
One of the most common mistakes we see in detailing is people using too much glass cleaner. Use just enough cleaner to
remove contaminants and residue on the glass. The more product you use the more you need to buff off in the latter steps. We
recommend using a total of 3 microfiber towels to care for your glass. One all purpose towel to apply the glass cleaner, a
second all purpose towel to buff off visible residue and a third, low nap, glass specific microfiber towel to buff to a streak free
finish. If you use just one towel you are almost guaranteed to see streaks afterward. We fold each one of these towels (16" x
16") in fourths and expose a fresh surface for each section of glass you are working on. This is especially important for the
second and third towel so you can effectively remove the excess glass cleaner. Folding the towel in fourths gives you eight fresh
surfaces and increases the value of any towel by utilizing the entire surface area instead of overusing just the middle section.
Another common mistake we see is working on the glass in direct sun. You must care for glass when it is cool and in the shade,
otherwise you greatly increase the chances of leaving behind some streaking.
After you have put the vehicle in the shade the first step is to mist a small amount of glass cleaner on a microfiber towel folded
in fourths. Avoid spraying your glass directly to prevent yourself from getting over spray on the trim pieces. It's actually best to
spray the product onto the towel outside of the vehicle. Remember to use just enough glass cleaner to clean the glass, you can
always mist your towel again if you need more product. Using the slightly misted towel apply some moderate pressure, slowly
working the product into the glass while keeping the towel flat. Pass over each area multiple times to ensure you clean the glass
from different angles. Take your second microfiber towel and buff off the excess product as best you can right after. Work in a
logical pattern up and down and then side to side to ensure you don't accidentally miss any areas. Complete slow overlapping
passes with moderate pressure while holding the towel flat. Finally, take your glass specific microfiber towel and repeat the

same process to ensure no streaks have escaped.

The process listed above is pretty easy however reaching every corner of the glass can be challenging. We recommend using a
Stoner Invisible Glass Reach and Clean Microfiber Mop Tool to effectively clean and reach the corners of your windshield
effortlessly. Without a tool like this, it is difficult to apply pressure in to the lower corners of the front and rear windshield. Follow
the same basic process listed above applying just enough cleaner to one microfiber bonnet and use the other glass microfiber
bonnet to buff off the left over product. You can also simply wrap microfiber towels around the head of the mini-mop to get the
same effect. Another tip when treating the front windshield is to sit on the passenger side of the car when cleaning the drivers
side glass. This helps you get behind the steering wheel a little bit easier.
If you have tinted glass make sure you use a tint friendly cleaner that does not use ammonia or harsh chemicals. The Stoner
Invisible Glass and the Chemical Guys Window Clean are two great choices that are completely safe on the tinted surfaces.
If you have fog forming on your front windshield make sure you turn off the recirculate mode from your heating and cooling
system. The recirculate mode recycles the air currently in your cabin which contains more moisture. Moisture will often cling to
the cooler glass forming a fog, which can reduce your visibility. Turning off the recirculate mode will help but if you are still
having a problem try using the Glass Science Fog Clear after you have thoroughly cleaned the interior glass. It forms an
invisible barrier on your glass that prevents moisture from being able to cling to the glass, which in turn helps you see clearly
and drive safely.

Exterior Glass How-To

Your exterior glass is exposed to various elements as you drive and even when you are parked. Caring for your exterior glass is
somewhat similar to caring for your paint, but remember glass is actually much harder. You want to thoroughly clean it and then
protect it from the elements. To clean the glass you can wash, clay and even polish it so it is truly clean and clear. By protecting
your exterior glass afterward with a sealant your maintenance will be much easier and you can improve your visibility during
poor driving conditions.
If your glass needs just a basic cleaning, wash it as you would the rest of your vehicle. When you are done, follow the same
cleaning steps as you would for your interior glass (see above), using multiple microfiber towels and just enough glass cleaner.
To give your exterior glass a deeper cleaning, you may want to consider using a clay bar. A clay bar can help remove
contaminants trapped on top of the glass and in the micro-pores of the glass. The process here is virtually identical to the way
you use a clay bar on the paint.
If you have very faint water marks on your glass distilled white vinegar is a good home remedy. Unfortunately some water mark
etchings are too deep for the vinegar solution to remove, so in these situations we highly recommend using the Glass Science
Glass Scrub. This is a unique cream glass polish designed to dissolve mineral deposits and remove light etchings, sap, road
grime and more. Even if you think your glass is clean the Glass Scrub will make it look noticeably cleaner and moisture will roll
off easier instead of clinging to contaminants. The Glass Scrub needs to be applied to a wet surface, so the best time to use this
product is just after washing and before drying. With the glass wet apply a dime sized drop to a wet foam applicator and buff it in
with medium pressure in a circular motion. Use more product as need be but try not to use an excessive amount because the
Glass Scrub needs to be thoroughly rinsed off when you are done.
After your glass is clean and clear you can protect it with a sealant. This will help moisture (i.e. rain, sleet and snow) form small
beads that roll right off with ease. It will also help prolong the life of your wipers since you won't have to use them as often and
there is less friction. You can use a glass specific protectant such as the Glass Science Rain Clear or a sealant used on the
paint. The Rain Clear is a gel based formula that needs to be applied thin and buffed off with medium pressure and a clean
microfiber towel. A traditional sealant like those used on the paint can also be used to protect the exterior glass. Both options
will help repel the moisture and make driving much simpler no matter the weather.

Facts and Tips

Use as little glass cleaner as possible to minimize streaking

Never use ammonia based glass cleaners on tinted windows
Use multiple towels to clean your glass, this will help reduce streaking
Always clean your glass when it is cool to the touch and out of direct sunlight
Protect your exterior glass to reduce maintenance and to improve visibility during poor weather conditions
Using a glass polish or distilled white vinegar can help remove water spots on glass
Before cleaning the glass roll down the window and clean the very top of the glass and the window seal

Related Articles

Here are a few articles related to Glass Care from our Ask-a-Pro Detailer Blog:

Product Review: Sonax Glass Cleaner

Ask A Pro: Household Glass Cleaners vs Car Specific Glass Cleaners
Couple of Quick Tips Vacuuming and Glass Cleaning
Ask A Pro: Deep Cleaning of Glass
The Multi Purposefull Klasse AIO: Why You Need a Bottle
How Do I Get Streak Free Windows
Ask A Pro: Cleaning Interior Windshield
2008 z06 Chevy Corvette
How to Determine Your Microfiber Needs
Ask A Pro: Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover

View all Glass Care articles

36

Interior

Overview
Caring for your interior is just as important as your exterior. You spend the most time inside your vehicle and your passengers
often take notice of how clean, or not so clean, your interior is. It's important to protect your interior trim and leather from harmful
UV rays that can potentially dry out and fade your interior. Keep your interior looking like new so you enjoy getting into your
vehicle each and every time.

Carpet Care
Caring for your fabrics is pretty simple, but unfortunately your carpets often see the most wear and tear since you are constantly
bringing in dirt, debris and contamination from your shoes. First off remove your mats and be careful not to dump dirt and
pebbles on the mat on to the carpets while removing them. A quick vacuum will help remove the obvious build ups if you haven't
cleaned the carpets and mats recently, but don't get fussy you'll vacuum them again later in this process. A firm bristle brush is
one of the most underrated tools in detailing and can be used next to loosen debris embedded in the carpets. Start brushing in a
corner and work your way towards one mid point from all corners and sections. Once you've made a pile of debris, use a
vacuum to remove it. Continue this same process for each fabric section and if you have fabric seats start with them and move
on to the carpets and mats second.
After making an initial pass with the brush and vacuum, spot treat any stains with a fabric cleaner. Most cleaners should dwell
on the fabric for 1 - 2 minutes, then scrub them again with a bristle brush in multiple different directions with medium pressure.
The brushes bristles will get in between the carpet fibers and help bring contaminants to the surface. At the same time the
bristles will break up stains and build ups on the surface. If stubborn stains persist spray them again with your cleaner and dip
your brush in a tray of hot water before scrubbing them again with medium to firm pressure. When you are satisfied with the
cleaning, use the vacuum if needed to remove any visible debris.
Once your carpet has completely dried, we recommend protecting your carpet. The 303 High Tech Fabric Guard is a great
example of a fabric protectant. This will help prevent stains from forming in the future and will make cleaning your fabrics easier
in the long run. Simply mist some product onto your carpet, mats and upholstery for a barrier of protection and you are done.
The carpets will continue to look and feel completely natural but they will resist moisture and stains

Interior Trim
Most interior trim (dashboard, console, doors, etc.) consists of a combination of vinyl, plastic, rubber and leather, which can be
cared for with many of the same products, so there is no need to get a product for each material. Some products are strictly
meant for cleaning, some are just for protection and others have a combination of both. In general products strictly meant for
cleaning or protection are more effective than options that do both. If you need a serious cleaning then we highly recommend
picking up a separate cleaner and protectant. Even if your vehicle is relatively clean we recommend at a minimum of 1 - 2 times
per year you use just a cleaner on the interior for a more thorough cleaning. If your vehicle is well maintained than you may be
able to use a cleaner and protectant in one bottle for maintenance cleanings.
For the vinyl, plastic, rubber, carpets and mats the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover is a great product. It's a highly effective and
very versatile formula that is very gentle. If you want some outstanding protection afterward the 303 Aerospace Protectant is a
great choice for rubber, leather, vinyl, plastic, etc. It leaves a nice dark finish that is not glossy or greasy while providing
outstanding UV protection. If you want a cleaner and protectant in one the Einszett Cockpit Premium is a great choice for
rubber, plastic, vinyl, etc. It has some light cleaning agents but also leaves UV protection that looks stunning with zero oily

residue left behind.

Leather Care How-To

Beautiful leather is synonymous with clean leather and when the leather is looking its best it is a source of tremendous pride for
automobile owners. Leather seats are one of the very first things we notice when entering a vehicle and dirty seats not only look
bad but it can harm the long term health of the seats. Modern day leather can be comprised from a variety of natural and
synthetic materials. Very few vehicles actually use just raw leather and many of them have a coating on them to help protect
against wear and tear. All of these material are prone to drying out and breaking down over time so regular maintenance is
essential.
Caring for virtually any type of seat involves the same basic steps which are cleaning, conditioning and protection. Inevitably
over time dirt, dust, human oils, etc. work themselves deep in to the seats and can be quite challenging to remove. A good
leather cleaner should be able to safely separate those contaminants and help bring them to the surface for removal. A quality
leather conditioner can help keep the leather soft and flexible yet strong and durable. Cleaners and conditioners should not
leave a glossy or oily finish behind. Lastly some protection can help prevent UV fading while preserving the color and finish for
decades to come. With proper care the seats will look and feel outstanding year round while increasing the resale value.
In general products that clean and condition in one bottle are not as effective as a separate cleaner and conditioner. The trade
off with using separate products is that it can cost more and they may take more time to apply. If interested in just a leather
cleaner we recommend the Leatherique Prestine Clean or the Connolly Leather Cleaner. For conditioning the Leatherique
Rejuvenator Oil and the Connolly Hide Care Leather Conditioner are two top notch choices. If you want to clean and condition in
one bottle the SONAX Leather Foam and Einszett Lederpfledge Leather Care are some of the many great choices we have
available. For protection afterward the 303 Aerospace Protectant is always a favorite for it's world renowned ability to block UV
rays.

Leatherique Leather Care Application

Leatherique leather care products are some of the best in the industry. They have been the product of choice for the Bentley
and Rolls Royce Owners Clubs. Leatherique can restore faded, hardened and neglected leather but it can also maintain brand
new leather in great condition. They work extremely well on synthetic leathers "leatherette", coated leathers, vinyl seats and so
much more! Both products use all natural active ingredients with no dyes to provide high quality leather care. The process
leaves the seats feeling completely natural without a greasy or oily residue. The application is a two step process consisting of
the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Leatherique Prestine Clean. If you are working on seats that have not been well cared for
recently you can expect to use more product, but well maintained or newer seats will need less product. The application of these
products is unique in that the conditioner is applied first and the cleaner is applied second.
Start off using the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil, which will penetrate the surface and condition your leather top to bottom. Apply
the product liberally on your leather seats with either your bare hands or a soft applicator pad (i.e. terry cloth applicator). You
can use a leather brush to help work the product deeper into the leather's pores if desired. Don't forget to do the head rests,
back of the seats, sides, bolsters, arm rests and really work it in to creases and folds. If the product readily absorbs in to the
seat you can apply more product until there is some visibly left on the surface. Each seat may need anywhere from .5 ounces to
2 ounces. When you are done back your vehicle into direct sun and if it's not sunny out you can use a hair dryer or turn on the
heated seats. The heat will help open the pores of the leather and thin out the Rejuvenator Oil so it can penetrate in to every
crevice of the leather. Ideally, you want to let the Rejuvenator Oil sit for a full day but a minimum of one to two hours still works
very well. If none of these heat sources are are available to you don't worry the product will still work well on it's own, just let it sit
the minimum of one to two hours.
After you've let the product sit on the leather for as long as possible, the surface may be a bit tacky to the touch, which is a good
sign. At this time the Rejuvenator Oil has removed many of the embedded contaminants and forced them up to the surface.
Now you will apply the Prestine Clean directly on top of the surface with a clean applicator pad (i.e. terry cloth applicator) or
clean microfiber towel. Apply anywhere from .5 to 1.5 ounces per seat, working it in thoroughly with light pressure. Let the
Prestine Clean sit on the leather for another 15 to 30 minutes. Take a slightly damp towel, using warm water, and remove both
products from the leather with light pressure. Immediately follow up with a dry towel to remove any visible moisture. The seats
should now look and feel incredible with no greasy or oily mess left behind at all. The leather will have a completely natural
finish and be well nourished to help prevent future problems.

Professional Leatherique Application Guide

See how one of the top professional detailers in the US uses Leatherique to restore neglected leather.

Facts and Tips

A clean interior shows you take pride in your vehicle
Cleaning and conditioning your leather on a regular basis will keep the leather looking great year round
Protect your leather with a product that blocks UV rays
Leather seats should never feel greasy or oily and avoid any product that adds a shine to the leather
A scrub brush is arguably the most important tool to clean any fabric
Microfiber towels are great for interior cleanings because they collect and trap dust particles
As you exit the vehicle try to not twist on the seat, over time this can remove material from the surface
Make sure you and your passengers don't have any sharp buttons, belts, etc. on your bottom side that can harm the
leather
Keep the interior clean by removing any wrappers, bottles and trash as soon as possible
Adding an air freshener is an easy way to create a smile

Related Articles
Here are a few articles related to Interior Care from our Ask-a-Pro Detailer Blog:

Leatherique Leather Care How To

Product Review: Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer
Product Review: Metro Vac n Blo
Simple Yet Effective Interior Cleaning
Product Review: The Many Uses for Meguiars D101 All Purpose Cleaner (APC)
How to Clean Scuffs from Door Sills and Door Panels
2006 Acura TL in Nighthawk Black Pearl Part 3
Product Review and Guide: 303 Aerospace Protectant
Dog Hair Removal Technique
Product Review: The Many Uses for Meguiars D101 All Purpose Cleaner

View all Interior Care articles

39

Engine Bay

Overview
Detailing the engine bay can often seem overwhelming and potentially scary but in reality it's one of the easiest areas to care
for. Many owners fear they will ruin some part of the engine with a simple cleaning, but the truth is the modern day engine bay is
so well protected it's hardly a concern anymore. With minimal effort you will be amazed at how easy and affordable it is to make
your engine bay look like new again. You only need a degreaser, protectant, protectant applicator and a cloth or brush to work
in the degreaser. The process should only take 20 - 45 minutes depending on how dirty the engine bay is.

Frequency
The engine bay should be detailed every 3 - 6 months to keep it clean and well protected.

Prep Work and Precautions

While the vast majority of vehicles are extremely easy and safe to work on we'll go over some basic precautions that apply to
some select vehicles. If you are working on a classic car or any older model (mid 1990's and older) you may want to be extra
cautious. Electrical components are generally well covered, but if you have any visible avoid hitting them with a high pressure
water flow. They are meant to resist moisture but it's possible to get water in there if you were careless or if they were defective.
To be conservative wrap exposed electrical connections in tin foil. The air intakes are usually protected but avoid hitting them
with a direct stream of water, if needed cover them with a plastic bag because you don't want to flood the air intake with water. If
you have an exposed aftermarket air filter make sure it's covered by a plastic bag. If you have any exposed belts or fans cover
them up with a plastic bag or tin foil. After you have checked off these areas you are ready to begin detailing. Again most of
these areas are not of concern to the modern day vehicle but you should check just to be safe.

Engine Bay Detailing How-To

Step 1: Prior to starting, the engine bay should not be hot but it's okay if it's just barely warm. Some detailers will turn the
car on for 1 - 2 minutes just to get it a little bit warm.
Step 2: Mist a light degreasing solution across the entire engine bay including the flipped up hood. Many light degreasers
will work but the P21S Total Auto Wash is a common choice as it's a citrus based degreaser that is gentle yet powerful. Let
it dwell for at least 1 - 2 minutes.
Step 3: Agitate visible build ups with a brush or rag. A small brush like the Mini EZ Detail Brush is very helpful as it get's in
to those tough to reach areas with ease.
Step 4: Apply a fine mist of water starting top down to rinse away the dirt and contaminants.
Step 5: Spot treat any remaining areas and re-rinse the engine bay down with a fine mist of water.
Step 6: Dry the engine bay top down with a microfiber towel and you should see a noticeable improvement already. If
needed, use compressed air beforehand to help remove any small pools of water that may be hard to access.
Step 7: If any of the vinyl, plastic, or rubber are faded use a product like the Chemical Guys Black on Black or the TUF
SHINE Black Restore to bring a darker and richer appearance back. If the material is not faded but you'd like to provide a
darker appearance and protection, apply your favorite protectant to the surface. The 303 Aerospace Protectant is a popular
choice as it leaves outstanding protection and adds a like-new finish to anything vinyl, plastic and rubber. Do not apply the
protectant or cleaners to any mechanical pieces like moving belts and fans.
Step 8: Remove any plastic bags or tin foil you used and start the engine just to be certain you are all set.

Upon completion the engine bay should look outstanding and be protected for months to come!

Facts and Tips

Many fear cleaning the engine bay when it's actually one of the easiest areas to care for
It can take as little as 20 minutes to clean and protect the entire engine bay
The modern day engine bay is so well protected it's quite easy and safe to care for
A degreaser, protectant and cloths are all you need
Generally speaking water will not harm the engine bay, it's designed to resist moisture
Don't use WD-40 or Windex to clean the engine bay
Clean and protect the engine bay at least twice per year
Don't forget to care for the hood that gets flipped up
An EZ Detail Brush can help you reach down in to the engine bay

Related Articles
Here are a few articles related to Engine Bay Detailing from our Ask-a-Pro Detailer Blog:

2006 Acura TL in Nighthawk Black Pearl Part 1

How to Detail Your Engine Bay
Product Review and Guide: 303 Aerospace Protectant
Why You Need a Bottle of the Multi Purposefull Klasse AIO
Product Review: DI Boars Hair Detailing Brush
Product Review: Chemical Guys Fade 2 Black
2008 m6 in Black Sapphire Metallic
Product Review: Mini EZ Detail Brush
Ferrari f40 60 Hour Restorative Detail by Todd Cooperider and Craig Reed
Learn Something New, Don't Read the Instructions

View all Engine Bay articles

41

Index
Title Page .............................................................................................................
Wash and Dry ......................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
Pre-wash Setup ..............................................................................................
Pre-wash Degreasing .....................................................................................
Pre-wash Degreasing How-To ..................................................................
Traditional Two Bucket Wash .........................................................................
Incorporating a Foam Gun .............................................................................
Sheeting Method ............................................................................................
Drying Your Vehicle ........................................................................................
Rinseless Wash ..............................................................................................
Waterless Wash .............................................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
What's Next? ..................................................................................................
Clay Bar ...............................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
Prior to Use ....................................................................................................
Choosing a Clay Lubricant .............................................................................
How-To Clay ...................................................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
What's Next? ..................................................................................................
Polish ...................................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
Why Use a Buffer? .........................................................................................
Buffer Comparison Chart ..........................................................................
Porter Cable 7424 .....................................................................................
Flex XC3401VRG .....................................................................................
Makita 9227C ............................................................................................
Choosing a Backing Plate ..............................................................................
Hand Polishing ...............................................................................................
Choosing Polishes ..........................................................................................

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Compounds ..............................................................................................
Cutting Polishes ........................................................................................
Finishing Polishes .....................................................................................
Paint Cleaners ..........................................................................................
Choosing Pads ...............................................................................................
Most Aggressive to Least Aggressive .......................................................
Smaller vs Larger ......................................................................................
Popular Polish & Pad Combinations .........................................................
How-To Polish ................................................................................................
Proper Lighting .........................................................................................
Caring for Pads .........................................................................................
Taping .......................................................................................................
Porter Cable 7424 .....................................................................................
Flex XC3401VRG .....................................................................................
Makita 9227C ............................................................................................
Hand Polishing ..........................................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
What's Next? ..................................................................................................
Glaze ...................................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
How-To Apply a Glaze ...................................................................................
Porter Cable 7424 XP ...............................................................................
Flex XC 3401 VRG ...................................................................................
Makita 9227C ............................................................................................
Hand Application .......................................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
What's Next? ..................................................................................................
Sealant .................................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Layering and Cure Times ...............................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
How-To Apply a Sealant .................................................................................
Porter Cable 7424 XP ...............................................................................
Flex XC 3401 VRG ...................................................................................
Hand Application .......................................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................

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Related Articles ..............................................................................................

What's Next? ..................................................................................................
Wax ......................................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Layering and Cure Times ...............................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
How-To Apply a Paste Wax ...........................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
What's Next? ..................................................................................................
Microfiber .............................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Microfiber Care ...............................................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
Wheel and Tire ....................................................................................................
Wheel Care Overview ....................................................................................
Wheel Care Frequency ..................................................................................
Wheel Care How-To .......................................................................................
Clean and Maintain ...................................................................................
Polish ........................................................................................................
Protect ......................................................................................................
Wheel Care Facts and Tips ............................................................................
Tire Care Overview ........................................................................................
Tire Care Frequency ......................................................................................
Tire Care How-To ...........................................................................................
Tire Care Facts and Tips ................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
Exterior Trim ........................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
How-To Treat Trim .........................................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
Glass ....................................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
Interior Glass How-To ....................................................................................
Exterior Glass How-To ...................................................................................

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Facts and Tips ................................................................................................

Related Articles ..............................................................................................
Interior ..................................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Carpet Care ....................................................................................................
Interior Trim ....................................................................................................
Leather Care How-To .....................................................................................
Leatherique Leather Care Application ......................................................
Professional Leatherique Application Guide .............................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
Engine Bay ..........................................................................................................
Overview ........................................................................................................
Frequency ......................................................................................................
Prep Work and Precautions ...........................................................................
Engine Bay Detailing How-To ........................................................................
Facts and Tips ................................................................................................
Related Articles ..............................................................................................
Index ....................................................................................................................

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