Refrigerator Troubleshooting Guide

Use this chart to find out what is causing a problem with your refrigerator.
Look up the symptom and then review some of the possible causes. Follow
links from the possible causes to articles on how to verify the cause and how
to repair the problem.

Symptom Check
Click on underlined items for further information

Refrigerator does not

run and the light does  Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in securely
not work
 Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker

 Test the power outlet for current

 Inspect the electrical cord for damage

 Eliminate use of an extension cord, if any is being
used

 Check the outlet voltage

Refrigerator does not

run but the light works  Check the temperature setting
 Make certain there is a three inch space outside of the
refrigerator between the walls and the back and sides
and at least a one inch gap above, to allow for air flow

 Clean the condenser coils

 Unplug the refrigerator, wait two hours and plug it in. If
you hear it running, a problem is causing the
compressor to overheat

 Test the temperature control

 Test the evaporator fan

 Test the defrost timer

 Test the compressor relay

 Test the overload protector

 Test the compressor motor

Refrigerator light does

not work  Replace the bulb

 Test the door switch

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 Refrigerator or freezer
is not cold enough  Check the temperature setting
 Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the
refrigerator or freezer

 Check for air flow restrictions in vents

 Test the temperature control

 Clean the condenser coils

 Check the door seals

 Test the door switch

 Test defrost heater

 Test defrost timer

 Test evaporator fan

 Check for a clogged drain tube

 Check for refrigerant leak

Refrigerator or freezer
is too cold  Check the temperature setting
 Test the temperature control

Refrigerator is noisy
 Hissing and popping is normal on frost free
refrigerators, it is the defrost heater
 Check that the refrigerator is level

 Check the drain pan

 Check the condenser fan

 Check the evaporator fan

 Inspect the compressor mounts

Refrigerator runs
continuously  Defrost the freezer

 Clean the condenser coils

 Check the door seals

 Test the door switch

 If you recently adjusted the temperature control,
loaded the refrigerator or are in a humid location, it is

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 not uncommon for a refrigerator to run for 24 hours or
more before getting cool.

Refrigerator starts and

stops frequently  Clean the condenser coils

 Check the outlet voltage

 Test the condenser fan
 Test the compressor relay

 Test the overload protector

 Test the compressor motor

Freezer does not

defrost automatically  Test the defrost timer
 Test the defrost heater
 Test the defrost thermostat

Refrigerator has an
unpleasant odor  Remove spoiled food
 Clean refrigerator interior with a solution of hot water
and baking soda

 Clean the door seals

 Remove breaker strips and check for wet insulation

Water on floor outside

of refrigerator  Check the drain pan
 If you have an ice-maker, check the water supply hose
going into and coming out of the water inlet valve

Water inside the

refrigerator  Clean the drain tube
 If you have an ice-maker, check refrigerator and ice-
maker for level

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How To Check a Fuse Box

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing
or repairs.

Located inside or outside of your home is a fuse box that contains a fuse
for each of your home's circuits. A fuse provides protection for each of your
electrical circuits by stopping the flow of current if an overload or fault
occurs. When an electrical short occurs or the load on your circuit
becomes too great, the fuse on that circuit burns out and breaks the circuit;
this is what is referred to as a "blown fuse." If your home uses circuit
breakers instead of fuses, click here.

Before electricity can be restored, the fuse must be replaced with a new
fuse. However, even before you replace the fuse, you must take steps to
ensure that it is safe to do so. Turn off or unplug all of the devices that are
plugged into the circuit. Make certain that no dangerous condition exists
before restoring power.

Replace the fuse with a fuse that is of the proper rating for the circuit. For
instance, if the circuit is rated for 15 amps, use a 15 amp fuse. Never use
anything other than a fuse of proper rating.

When removing or inserting a new fuse, NEVER touch the metal parts of
the fuse. If your fuse box is equipped with a master switch to cut power to
the fuse box, cut the main power prior to replacing the fuse.

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How to Reset a Circuit Breaker
Located inside or outside of your home is a circuit breaker panel
(sometimes called a fuse box) that contains circuit breakers for each of
the circuits in your home. Some homes have more than one circuit
breaker panel, there may be a main panel plus one or more sub panels
in other locations.

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any

testing or repairs.

A circuit breaker provides protection for each of your electrical circuits

by stopping the flow of current if an overload or fault occurs. When an
electrical fault occurs or the load on your circuit becomes too great, the
breaker on that circuit trips and interrupts the flow of current to that
circuit. A tripped circuit breaker is still sometimes referred to as a
"blown fuse" in reference to the older technology that circuit breakers
replaced. If your home uses an actual fuse and not a circuit breaker,
click here for information on fuse boxes.

Instructions To Reset a Circuit Breaker

Before electricity can be restored, the circuit breaker must be reset.

However, even before you do that, you must take steps to ensure that it
is safe to do so. Turn off or unplug all of the devices that are plugged
into the circuit. Make certain no dangerous condition exists before
restoring power.

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A circuit breaker which has been tripped will either be in the middle or "OFF"
position. Locate the tripped circuit breaker and reset it by pushing it all the way to
the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position. Often when you can't
cannot reset the circuit breaker, it is because it must be turned all the way to the
"Off" position first.

Electricity should now be restored to the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips again
before you have turned anything on or plugged anything in, the breaker itself may
need to be replaced or a serious wiring fault may exist. Immediately consult a
qualified electrician.

If the circuit breaker trips after plugging in or turning on a device, that device may
have a short or may be placing too much of a load on the circuit.

If no circuit breakers were tripped and you still do not have power at an outlet,
there may be a wiring fault, the outlet may be defective or it may be on a GFCI
controlled branch circuit. Refer to the guide for checking a GFCI outlet.

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What is a GFCI Outlet - How does a GFCI Work?

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or
repairs.

A GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlet is a device that adds a greater
level of safety by reducing the risk of electric shock. Most building codes now
require that a GFCI outlet be used in wet locations such as bathrooms

, kitchens, laundry rooms and outdoors.

A GFCI outlet monitors for a current imbalance between the hot and neutral
wires and breaks the circuit if that condition occurs. A circuit breaker usually
will trip if you receive a shock, but it may not act fast enough to protect you
from harm. A GFCI outlet is more sensitive and acts faster than a circuit
breaker or fuse and is thus an important safety feature.

A GFCI outlet may be wired in a branch circuit, which means other outlets
and electrical devices may share the same circuit and breaker (or fuse).
When a properly wired GFCI trips, the other devices down the line from it will
also lose power. Note that devices on the circuit that come before the GFCI
are not protected and are not affected when the GFCI is tripped. If the GFCI
outlet is improperly wired, none the other loads, upstream nor downstream
are be protected.

If you have an outlet that doesn't work, and the breaker is not tripped, look
for a GFCI outlet which may have tripped. The non-working outlet may be
down line from a GFCI outlet. Note that the affected outlets may not be
located near the GFCI outlet; they may be several rooms away or even on a
different floor.

GFCI outlets
REFRIGERATOR should be testedGUIDE
TROUBLESHOOTING periodically, at least once a year. A GFCI 9/45
outlet has a "Test" and a "Reset" button. Pressing the "Test" button will trip
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the outlet and break the circuit. Pressing the "Reset" will restore the circuit. If
pressing the test button does not work, then replace the GFCI outlet. If the
How To Test an Outlet for Voltage

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any
testing or repairs.

You can test an outlet

to determine if current can flow with a voltage tester. Always test

your test equipment for proper operation before use. If you don't
have a voltage tester, simply use a shop light or other convenient
electrical device. Start by making sure the tester is working and plug
it into a circuit you know is working. Note that if you need to test a
220V outlet, these instructions do not cover that test.

There are a variety of testers to choose from, the most basic is pictured
below. It has two probes, insert one into each slot and if voltage is
present, it will light up. Be sure to test both outlets, sometimes each is
wired separately or only one of the two is working. To test whether the
outlet is properly grounded, follow this link to the article on grounding.

If there is no voltage, make certain that the outlet isn't controlled by a

switch. Try all nearby switches and check whether the tester lights up.

If you are troubleshooting an outlet that isn't working, some possibilities

include:

 The fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped. Click on the
following links for more information on replacing fuses and resetting
circuit breakers.
 The outlet may be in a circuit with a GFCI outlet (ground fault circuit
interrupt). If the GFCI outlet has tripped, it may cause other outlets on
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and "Reset" button. They are often located near water such as in a
bathroom or kitchen. If the outlet has been tripped, unplug anything
that may have caused the fault and then press the "Reset" button.
How To Check an Electrical Cord
Caution: Before inspecting a potentially damaged electrical cord,
unplug it from the outlet, if it is safe to do so. Otherwise turn off the
power at the circuit breaker or fuse box

A device may cease to function or operate sporadically if the electrical

cord is damaged. Inspect the cord for any of the following damage.

 Is the wire shielding pulling away from the plug?

 Is the cord secure where it connects to the device?
 Are there black smudges or burn marks on the outlet, cord or anywhere
the cord comes in contact?
 Are there cracks in the shielding or exposed wire?
 Has the cord been pinched or bent so that the wire inside may have
broken?

If the answer to any of these questions is "yes", then the cord should be
replaced.

How To Test Outlet Voltage

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous. Testing voltage output requires
working with electrical current. Do not attempt this measurement without the proper tools and
safeguards.

To measure the voltage at an electrical outlet requires the use of a multimeter. Always test your
test equipment for proper operation before use.

Set the multimeter to AC voltage. The markings may appear as VAC, AC V, or a V beneath a
wavy line. Choose the AC voltage closest to the voltage you will measure. Standard current in
home and businesses in the USA is in the range of 110 to 120 volts. Some circuits used for
equipment such as dryers, air conditioners

, electric stoves, ovens and other large equipment may use voltage in the range of 220 to
240 volts. These heavy-duty circuits can be identified by their non-standard outlet plugs.

While grasping the insulated portion of the probes (never touch the metal

conductor during testing) place one probe into each of the two terminals. The multimeter will
display the voltage.

Carefully remove the probes, being careful not to touch the metal part of the probes to anything or
each other.

The voltage should typically test in the range of 108 to 121 volts for most circuits. If voltage is
higher or lower, professional electrical service may be required.

How To Check the Temperature

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 In most refrigerator freezers
, the refrigerator gets its cold from the freezer. The evaporator fan circulates air over the coils
in the freezer and cold air circulates into the refrigerator through vents. If the vents are
blocked or closed, then the fridge will not get cold enough but the freezer will. If neither is
cold enough, then the number of possibilities increases.

Lowering the freezer temperature will increase the cooling cycle activity. Setting the
refrigerator temperature may have little affect on the cooling cycles because it simply
changes the vent opening size. Decreasing the fridge temperature opens the vents more and
increases air circulation from the freezer.

The temperature can be adjusted using the controls found inside the refrigerator or freezer.
The ideal freezer temperature is about 0 to 5 degrees (F) and about 38 degrees (F) for the
fridge.

Measure the temperature by placing a cup of water with a cooking thermometer into the
refrigerator for about 2 hours or more. To test the freezer, substitute alcohol or cooking oil.

How To Clean the Condensor Coils

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before cleaning the condensor coils, unplug the refrigerator to avoid a shock hazard.

The condensor coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your
refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop
completely as a result of an overheated compressor.

Rear-Mounted Coils

You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning.
Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a
refrigerator without an assistant.

Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean
them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.

Floor Level Coils

You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before
cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils.

Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment
to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and
possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for
screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

How To Test the Temperature Control

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before testing the control, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

Most refrigerator-freezers have a control that adjusts the operation of the cooling system of
the freezer only. In such appliances, any control for the refrigerator is simply a mechanical
system of opening or closing vents between the refrigerator and freezer to let in more or less
cold air.

Remove the temperature control dial or housing. Pull the dial straight away from the wall.
Remove the temperature control. If there is a housing, it either snaps into place or is held in
place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small
screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring.

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The control will be connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the control before disconnecting
the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connector (do not
pull on the wire) off of the control's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove
the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they
should be replaced.

Test the control for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe
on each terminal. Turn the control to warmest setting or off. The multitester should display a reading of
infinity. If the control does not have an off position, the reading should be near the infinity end of the scale.
Now change the control to the coldest setting and retest. The display should read zero ohms. If the control
does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

If there is a separate control for the freezer and refrigerator, test the other control in the same way.

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How To Use a Meter to Test Continuity

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any
testing or repairs.

This test should be done when current is NOT present. Always

unplug the device or turn off the main circuit breaker before attempting
a continuity test. Always test your test equipment for proper operation
before use.

A continuity test is done to determine whether a circuit is open or

closed. For example, a wall switch is closed when it is turned to the
"on" position and it is open when it is turned off. An open circuit cannot
conduct electricity. A closed circuit has continuity.

To test the continuity of a circuit requires the use of a multimeter (also

called a multitester) or a continuity tester (a simple device that lights up
to indicate continuity).

Set the multimeter to the ohm setting. The symbol for ohm is , the
Greek letter omega. If there is more than one ohm setting, choose X1.
An analog meter, like the one pictured below, uses a needle to indicate
the measured value. A digital meter performs the same test functions
as an analog meter, with the key difference being that a digital meter
provides a numeric reading instead of using a needle.

Note that while the probes are not touching anything, the multimeter will
indicate a reading of infinity. A reading of infinity means that the circuit
is open. When you touch the two probes together, the reading changes
to zero. A reading of zero indicates that the circuit is closed or
complete. A complete circuit is one that can conduct electricity; an open
circuit cannot.
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How To Test the Evaporator Fan
Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before testing the fan, unplug the refrigerator

to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove
obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear
inside panel of the freezer.

The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or
depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver.

Remove any screws that secure the fan or fan housing so that you can access the fan's
wiring. Typically two screws secure the mounting bracket in place (labeled "A" below). It may
be easier to remove the entire rear panel if the mounting brackets screws are inaccessible.

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The fan is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement on the fan before disconnecting the
wires. The wires are connected to the fan with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connector off (do not pull
on the wire) of the fan's terminal. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the
connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they
should be replaced.

Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the movement is not smooth, the motor should
be replaced.

Test the fan for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on
each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the fan does not pass this test, it
should be replaced.

How To Test the Defrost Timer

A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the freezer. In
older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours,
cuts power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost
heater. In newer models the timer advances only while the compressor
or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer
continues to advance, power to the heating element is cut and power is
restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the
appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in,
respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any

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 testing or repairs.

Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an

electrical shock hazard.

The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the
refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the
refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the
refrigerator near the compressor.

To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the
advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This
advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in
defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has
left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor).
If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire
timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can
follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.

The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the
screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring
connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking
it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires
because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only
one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms
setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should
be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal
coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.

Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the
other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should
display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one

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pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should
show no continuity (infinity).

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the
timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly
two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one
of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and
one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not
pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

* We have received two reports of cases in which only one pair of terminals
shows continuity and when the timer is advanced, the same pair still shows
continuity. For these isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct operation
of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this case. This may indicate
a specific model or models that use a different wiring configuration than
discussed in this article. Also, note that this article applies to mechanical defrost
timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.

How To Test the Compressor Relay

The compressor
relay's purpose is to start the compressor. A faulty relay can result in the
compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower
rear of the refrigerator. In the photo
below the compressor is labeled "A", the relay is located in the terminal
box which is located at the position labeled "B".

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing
or repairs.

Before testing a compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an

electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it must

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 be discharged first to avoid the risk of electrical shock.

The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover

box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.

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Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay (labeled "A" below), overload protector (labeled
"B") and the electrical terminals of the compressor motor.

Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.

Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.

With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multitester
should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light
up).

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With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch
engaging. The multitester should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).

Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal
labeled "L".

The multitester should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the
reading should change to infinity.

With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled
"M".

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The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the
same, zero ohms.

If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced.

Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the
connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed
wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires
specialized equipment for testing.

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How To Test the Overload Protector
The overload protector is designed to protect the compressor motor
from damage. The location of the overload protector is with the start
relay on or near the compressor. The compressor is found at the lower
rear of the freezer, with the exception of the high-end, built in style
refrigerator-freezers on which the compressor is usually on top.

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any

testing or repairs.

Before testing the compressor motor, unplug the freezer to avoid an

electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it may
contain a lethal electrical charge. Do not touch the terminals until you
have discharged the capacitor.

The overload protector is accessed from the lower rear of the

refrigerator. The compressor is labeled "A", the overload protector is
located in the terminal box which is located at the position labeled "B".

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 The overload protector can be accessed by removing the terminal
cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.

The overload protector (labeled "B" below) is connected by two wires. One wire connects to the
compressor

relay (labeled "A") with a slip-on connector. Pull the connector firmly off of the relay terminal (do not pull
on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connector. Inspect the
connector for corrosion. If the connector is corroded it should be replaced.

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The overload protector is held in place with a round spring clip. Using a screwdriver, pry open the spring
clip and remove the overload protector.

Test the overload protector for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.

Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the overload
protector does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

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How To Test the Compressor Motor
Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before testing the compressor motor, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical
shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it may contain a lethal electric
charge. Do not touch the terminals until you have discharged the capacitor.

The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor is
labeled "A", the terminal box is located at the position labeled "B".

The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover
is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.

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Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay (labeled "A" below), overload protector (labeled
"B") and the electrical terminals of the compressor motor.

Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.

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Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the
connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the
connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Test the compressor motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.

Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The
multitester should display a reading of zero ohms.

Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe.
Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe.
Every test should have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does
not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service.

Now test the compressor for ground. With the multitester still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on
the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch
the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn.

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None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a
reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor
will require professional service.

How To Test the Door Switch

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before testing the switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch.
When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off (yes, it really
does) and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch
malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the
evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light.

Locate the switch and remove it by removing the retaining screw (if any) or by prying it with a
putty knife. Place a piece of masking tape over the blade of the putty knife to prevent
damage to the refrigerator. Gently pull the switch from its housing and expose an inch or two
of wire.

The switch will be connected by two wires (four wires if it controls additional features). Label
the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to
the switch with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connector off of the switch terminal (do not
pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors.
Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they
should be replaced.

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Test the switch for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe
on each terminal. The multitester should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch
the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change
back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

If there are four terminals, touch the probe to one terminal and then test each of
the other three terminals with the other probe one at a time. Touching one of the
three terminals should cause the multitester reading to change from infinity to
zero. Those two terminals are a pair. Depress the switch with the probes still
touching the terminals and the reading should change back to infinity. Now test
the other two terminals. If either pair of terminals fails the continuity test, the
switch should be replaced.

How To Check the Temperature

In most refrigerator
freezers, the refrigerator gets its cold from the freezer. The evaporator fan circulates air over
the coils in the freezer and cold air circulates into the refrigerator through vents. If the vents
are blocked or closed, then the fridge will not get cold enough but the freezer will. If neither is
cold enough, then the number of possibilities increases.

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 Lowering the freezer temperature will increase the cooling cycle activity. Setting the
refrigerator temperature may have little affect on the cooling cycles because it simply
changes the vent opening size. Decreasing the fridge temperature opens the vents more and
increases air circulation from the freezer.

The temperature can be adjusted using the controls found inside the refrigerator or freezer.
The ideal freezer temperature is about 0 to 5 degrees (F) and about 38 degrees (F) for the
fridge.

Measure the temperature by placing a cup of water with a cooking thermometer into the
refrigerator for about 2 hours or more. To test the freezer, substitute alcohol or cooking oil.

How to Check the Airflow

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any
testing or repairs.

Best cooling results are achieved when the air is free to circulate
around items stored in the refrigerator or freezer. When items are
packed closely together, the air cools the outermost items but the
center items will not be thoroughly cooled. Cool air never reaches the
center items and they will not be properly chilled.

May sure that air can flow over and between the shelves as well as
over the items stored there. Overfilling the refrigerator or freezer will
result in inefficient and inadequate cooling.

An underfilled refrigerator also will not cool as well. As items cool down,
they have thermal mass; a tendency to stay cool. When the refrigerator
is empty, there is little thermal mass and so it warms up quickly when
the door is opened.

How to Check the Airflow Restrictions

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any
testing or repairs.

Before checking for airflow restrictions, unplug the refrigerator or

shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an
electrical shock hazard.

The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it
vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer
and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In
most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes
these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the
vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air.
An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other
cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To
remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher
setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip
onto the hair dryer.

In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control

console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with
screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips
with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A
freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the
vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove
the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

How To Check the Door Seals

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

The door to the refrigerator has a flexible seal that prevents cold air from escaping when the
door is closed. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case.
When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more
frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper
temperature.

To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the
seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension
as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal.

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 You should also inspect the door seal for cracking or a lack of flexibility.

If the door seal does not seal properly, the door may need to be realigned or the seal
replaced. Also, the door seal should be periodically cleaned to aid in the prevention of odors
and to maintain the seal's flexibility.
How To Test the Defrost Heater
Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before testing the defrost heater, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock
hazard.

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of
a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer,
freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.

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 The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress
the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to
remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky
-never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking.
Warm it first with a warm, wet bath towel.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod
covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in
the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the
connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers
to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are
corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and
infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we
can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad
and should be replaced.

You may get a reading between those extremes and the element may still be
bad, you can only be certain if you know the correct rating of your element. If you
can find the schematic, you may be able to determine the proper resistance
rating. Also, inspect the element as it may be labeled.

How To Clear the Drain Tube

Caution: Before clearing the drain tube, unplug the refrigerator or shut off the power at the
fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

Your refrigerator has a drain that leads to the exterior drain pan beneath the refrigerator.
Occasionally this drain can become clogged resulting in standing water inside your
refrigerator. A similar drain exists in the freezer, which when clogged results in ice build up
on the floor of the freezer.

The drain is located either on the floor of the refrigerator, beneath the vegetable crisper, or in
the wall behind a drain funnel.

Clear the drain by forcing a solution of water and bleach or water and baking soda into it with
a basting syringe. If the solution will not flow through, slide a length of ¼ inch flexible tubing
into the drain tube to push the clog through to the drain pan. Remove the tubing after clearing
the clog.

How To Deal with a Refrigerant Leak

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Most gases used as refrigerants pose health risks if inhaled. If you suspect a refrigerant

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 leak, provide adequate ventilation and contact a qualified service technician.

A refrigerant leak can cause a freezer to fail to get cold enough; however, leaks are very
uncommon. Also, unlike some automobile air conditioners, it is never necessary to "top off"
the refrigerant. The refrigeration system is a closed system and the addition of refrigerant is
rarely called for.

Never attempt to chip away ice in your freezer. Even the slightest nick of the cooling coils can
result in a very expensive repair or even the total loss of your appliance

A refrigerant leak can be repaired only by a qualified service technician. If you have ruled out
all other possible causes, have a technician inspect your freezer.

In theory, if you can locate the leak, a cold weather epoxy seal could be used to patch the
hole. However, these patches will often fail after only a year or two. Once a patch is made,
then the system must be recharged with refrigerant. Recharging the system can only be done
by a qualified technician.

Leveling a Refrigerator
Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before leveling, unplug the appliance to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Never tip a
refrigerator or freezer, it is very heavy and can fall causing damage or injury.

It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close
properly and may not seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as
might the ice making cycle. The appliance was engineered based on it being installed in a
level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level installation, the appliance
will operate at its best when properly leveled.

Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the
door may not be aligned with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from
side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is level from front to back.

If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are
bolts that can be turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your
fingers, use a crescent wrench or pliers.

If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the
refrigerator. An icemaker that is out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer.
It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting it for level and then
retightening the screws.

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How To Clean or Adjust the Drain Pan

Caution: Before removing the drain pan, unplug the refrigerator

or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.

The drain pan should be removed and cleaned at least once a year. The drain pan is located
at the bottom of the refrigerator behind the front grill. Remove the grill, which snaps into
place. Grasp the drain pan while pulling slightly upward and forward.

Clean the pan with warm soapy water or warm water and baking soda.

If the pan rattles when it is replaced, it is too close to the compressor. Simply reposition the
tray.

How To Test the Condensor Fan

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before testing the condensor fan, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock
hazard.

The condensor fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an
access panel to reach it.

Clean the fan. If the fan blade is damaged, it can be removed from the fan motor and it
should be replaced.

Spin the fan blade, it should move smoothly and freely. If the fan does not move smoothly,
replace the fan motor.

If the fan motor cannot be accessed for testing, remove the motor now. The fan motor is held
in place with screws and possibly a mounting bracket. Remove the bracket and the screws

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 and pull the motor back away from the housing.

The fan motor

is connected by two or three wires. Label the wire placement on the motor before disconnecting the wires.
The wires are connected to the terminals with slip-on connectors or a plug. Firmly pull the connectors off
of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the
connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they
should be replaced.

Test the fan motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X10. Place a
probe on each terminal. In the photo below there are three terminals, the middle one is for ground and
does not need to be tested. The multitester should display a reading approximately mid-way between
infinity and zero ohms. If the motor does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

How To Inspect the Compressor Mounts

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Before inspecting the compressor mounts, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical
shock hazard.

The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb
vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate.
When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator and it can be
noisy. Replacing the mountings is easy to do.

The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get
to the compressor.

Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip (labeled "A" below) of just one
of the compressor mounts (labeled "B"). Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to
slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but
not rigid. If the mount is crumbly or hard, it should be replaced. Replace and tighten the
compressor mount.

Repeat this step for each of the compressor mounts.

How To Defrost the Freezer

If your freezer has an automatic defroster (frost-free) but does not defrost, return to our
troubleshooting guide and look under "Freezer does not defrost automatically".

If your freezer does not have an automatic defrost feature, you will have to defrost it
manually. Some freezers have a manual defrost setting on the temperature control

or a push button. If your freezer has no defrost feature at all, you can defrost it by unplugging
it and placing a defrost heater into the freezer or by unplugging it and leaving the door open.

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How To Test Outlet Voltage

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 Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

Working with live electrical current can be very hazardous. Testing voltage output requires
working with electrical current. Do not attempt this measurement without the proper tools and
safeguards.

To measure the voltage at an electrical outlet requires the use of a multimeter. Always test your
test equipment for proper operation before use.

Set the multimeter to AC voltage. The markings may appear as VAC, AC V, or a V beneath a
wavy line. Choose the AC voltage closest to the voltage you will measure. Standard current in
home and businesses in the USA is in the range of 110 to 120 volts. Some circuits used for
equipment such as dryers, air conditioners, electric stoves, ovens and other large equipment may
use voltage in the range of 220 to 240 volts. These heavy-duty circuits can be identified by their
non-standard outlet plugs.

While grasping the insulated portion of the probes (never touch the metal conductor during
testing) place one probe into each of the two terminals. The multimeter will display the voltage.

Carefully remove the probes, being careful not to touch the metal part of the probes to anything or
each other.

The voltage should typically test in the range of 108 to 121 volts for most circuits. If voltage is
higher or lower, professional electrical service may be required.

How to Remove the Breaker Strips

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 The breaker strips are located just inside the front of the refrigerator
case, near where the door seal makes contact. If the breaker strips are
warped or cracked, they may allow moisture to get into the insulation
between the inner and outer walls of the refrigerator.

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any

testing or repairs.

Before removing the breaker strips, unplug the refrigerator to avoid

an electrical shock hazard.

To remove the breaker strips it is important to bring them up to room

temperature first. If they are too cold they will be brittle and may crack.
To warm the strips you can open the freezer and allow it to come up to
room temperature (wait 2 to 4 hours) or you can soak a towel in warm
water and hold it against the strips to warm them.

How to Remove the Breaker Strips

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 continued from page 1

Determine whether anything must be removed (such as the control console) before the
breaker strips can be removed. Attempt to remove the strip by pulling it away from the
refrigerator case. If that does not work, gently slide a putty knife under the strip. Instead of
prying the strip (which may damage the case or strip) slide the knife along the seam, rocking
it where necessary to separate the strip. Some breaker strips are held in place with a sealant,
which will have to be cut with a utility knife.

If the insulation is damp or has an unpleasant odor, leave the strip off to allow the insulation
to dry. You may alternatively use a hair dryer set on low to dry the insulation.

Replace the breaker strip using a food grade sealant as necessary.

How To Check the Water Inlet Valve

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.

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 Before testing the water inlet valve, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock
hazard.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming
into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply
line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet
valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on
connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may
need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors
and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have
built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to
replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).

Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if
available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should
display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal
the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be
replaced.

Also refer to our Icemaker section for more information

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How To Test an Outlet for Ground

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 The wiring in your home consists of the "line" or "hot" wire, the neutral
wire and in for at least the past couple decades, a ground wire. In the
United States the common color coding for these wires are black or red
for the hot wire, white for the neutral wire and green or bare wire for the
ground wire.

Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any

testing or repairs.

To test whether an outlet is properly grounded, you will need an

inexpensive tool called a circuit tester (you can also use a multimeter
set to AC voltage appropriate for the outlet you are testing). Standard
outlets have a large slot, a small slot and a "U" shaped hole. In a
properly wired outlet, the smaller slot is "hot", the large slot is neutral
and the "U" shaped hole is ground.

Insert one probe of the circuit tester into the small slot and the other
probe into the large probe. If the circuit tester lights up, you have power
to the outlet. Now place one probe in the small slot and the other probe
into the "U" shaped ground hole. The indicator should light up if the
outlet is grounded. Test both outlets because they can be wired
separately. The fact that one is properly wired does not guarantee that
they are both properly wired.

If the tester does not light, then place one probe into the large slot and
the other probe in the ground hole. If it does light, then the outlet is
grounded but the "hot" and neutral wires are reversed. If it still does not
light, then the outlet is NOT grounded. If the outlet is mis-wired or not
grounded, TROUBLESHOOTING
REFRIGERATOR it should NOT be used
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