Fashion Photography: A Complete Guide To The Tools and Techniques of The Trade
Fashion Photography: A Complete Guide To The Tools and Techniques of The Trade
By:
Michaella Hammersberg
INTRODUCTION
Fashion photography is one of the most exciting and
competitive fields in photography
Fashion is about beauty, energy and creativity.
If your images make people stop and look at them
you will be successful in your industry.
Creating good photographs isn’t just about the size
of your digital files, it is about the content in the
images.
To be a good fashion photographer you need to
learn far more important things than the latest
technical developments.
EQUIPMENT
Your equipment is important.
Your camera, lenses, lighting and software
are the tools of your trade. You must know
how to use them to be successful.
What the author uses:
Medium format
Large format
Portable hard drive
Photoshop
Mac Computer
General gadgets
Filters
Mono pod/ tripod
Scissors
Tape
String
Batteries/chargers
Safety pins
Location Lighting
Mustbe portable and convenient
Generally use a battery powered kit
Studio Lighting
There are two main types
Monobolic flash heads that run on outlet power.
Generators/flash heads.
TEAM BUILDING
Every image taken is a combined effort between
the photographer and his/her team.
Make-up, hair and styling will make or break your
image so having a crew for styling is your best
option to achieve your objectives.
Fashion protocols
Informal rules for acceptable ways of behaving and
dealing with people in the business.
Casting for models
Never give model indication that you will use them in the shoot
until you are certain.
Features of the model should never be discussed in a
derogatory manner.
Respect your model.
Styling
To photograph models at their best you must have a styling
team.
Must give stylist precise instructions
If planning on shooting on location make sure that styling is
done before arrival at shoot.
Responsible for style and mood of entire photo shoot and
making that image come to life.
Assistants
Assistants are a vital part of a team
Must have the right personality for the photo shoot
Must be organized
Must have knowledge in the photography field.
Testing Models
Gives models practice in front of the camera
Is generally a trade off for photographers experience and
models portfolio images.
Sourcing Models
Model agencies, casting agencies etc.
You must find the right model for the job (i.e. looks, attitude
etc.)
Places to try
Modelmayhem.com
Net-model.com
Onemodelplace.com
PRE-PRODUCTION
Fashion photography is all about creating a fantasy.
Organizing a fashion shoot
Firstdecide why you are taking the images.
Select model
Research a studio or location for the images
Get the equipment needed put together
Find assistants
Find a stylist
Find people to do hair and make-up
Set up the lighting
Set up background
What is the image being used for?
Times of day to shoot
Late Afternoon
Late Morning
Mid Morning
Warmth in the shot
Bright and crisp lighting
Mid day
Worst time
Natural light
Early morning
Late afternoon
Researching your ideas
Take a look at fashion magazines to get inspiration.
Get tear sheets from magazines.
Select images that appeal to you and your style.
Studio
Photography is not about shooting it is about what you
are trying to create.
There is no better shooting space than a studio space
with natural light streaming in on a sunny day.
Outdoor locations
Offerenormous possibilities for a photo shoot.
When choosing a place to shoot you will need to keep in
mind how the outfit will look within the image itself.
Indoor locations
Must fit atmosphere of image.
Can use location finding companies
Preparing for a shoot
Getting the clothing
Have a purpose and a theme
Have a story board
Briefing
What order will you shoot in?
LIGHTING
Photography is all about lighting.
There are many ways to light your fashion
images.
Clean white backdrops
Every fashion photographer needs to know how
to set up a clean white backdrop.
Once set up you can light the subject any way
you would like.
Studio Flash
Total control over flashes
Shooting in shade
Today’s DSLR’s allow to shoot at higher ISO settings
without sacrificing much quality.
Gives a slightly blue colored hue to image
Check white balance
Direct sunlight
Can use as side light, front light or backlight.
Can use a diffuser for a better look and tone in the
image.
Front-lit sunlight
Use only at beginning and end of the day.
Side-lit sunlight
Only use at beginning and end of day
Back-lit sunlight
Can give an eye catching and sometimes dramatic effect to your
images.
Watch out for flare and silhouetting.
PRODUCTION
Know your market.
What is the purpose of this image going to be?
How will it be used?
E\What type of composition does the client like/want?
Will you need to allow for text room?
Day of shoot
All garment pressing should have been done the previous
day.
Be on time because if you are late it could mean loosing
light and ruining the shoot.
Make-up artist should set up there kit and get to work.
Stylist should make sure the clothing looks good.
Take time to think about the shooting order.
Types of fashion shoots
Clients Direct
Advertising
Editorial
Catalog
Directing your model
One of the most important parts of the photo shoot.
Most important words are of encouragement as well as
enthusiasm.
Avoid interrupting the shoot.
If you want to have the model show the emotion you
want to see then they will have to feel it themselves.
POST PRODUCTION
Photographers now need to know how to get the
best out of their work in Photoshop.
Nip and tuck
Used to make a garment more flattering.
Quick selection tool
New layer
Liquefy filter
Duplicate original layer
Clone stamp tool
Cosmetic Photoshop
Healing brush
Patch tool
Last resort should be the clone stamp
MARKETING
Fashion photography is a highly competitive business
therefore you need to know how to market well.
It doesn’t matter how good of a photographer you are
if no one gets to see your prints.
You can use model testing for companies as a way to
get your portfolio out there.
Develop your individual style!
Book appointments with people.
Market yourself
Directories
Websites
Z-cards
Also known as comp cards
INSPIRATIONAL PHOTOGRAPHERS
David Lachapelle
Barry Lategan
Perou
Rankin