Cosmetics

These are substances used to enhance

the appearance or odour of the human
body. Cosmetics include skin-care
creams, lotions, Powders, Perfumes,
Lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail
polish, eye and facial makeup, colored
contact lenses, hair colours, hair
sprays and gels, deodorants, hand
sanitizer, baby products, bath oils,
bubble baths, bath salts, butters and
many other types of products.
A subset of cosmetics is called "make-
up," which refers primarily to colored
products intended to alter the user’s
appearance. Many manufacturers
distinguish between decorative
cosmetics and care cosmetics. The word
cosmetics derives from the Greek word
κοσμητική τέχνη (kosmetikē tekhnē),
meaning "art of dress and ornament",
from κοσμητικός (kosmētikos), "skilled
in ordering or arranging" and that from
κόσμος (kosmos), meaning amongst
others "order" and "ornament".
The manufacture of cosmetics is currently
dominated by a small number of
multinational corporations that originated in
the early 20th century, but the distribution
and sale of cosmetics is spread among a
wide range of different businesses.

The U.S. Food And Drug Administration

(FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the
United States defines cosmetics as:

"intended to be applied to the human body

for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance
without affecting the body's structure or
functions.“

The FDA specifically excludes soap from

this category.
Cosmeceuticals represent the marriage of
cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Examples of
products typically labeled as cosmeceuticals
include anti-aging creams and moisturizers.
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with
biologically active ingredients purporting to
have medical or drug-like benefits.

An important distinction lies in the delivery

method. The "cosmeceutical" label applies
only to products applied topically, such as
creams, lotions, and ointments. Products which
are similar in perceived benefits but ingested
orally are known as nutricosmetics.
The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics
usage was found in Egypt around 3500 BC
during the Ancient Egypt times, the Ancient
Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The
Romans and Ancient Egyptians used
cosmetics containing poisonous mercury and
often lead.
The ancient kingdom of Israel was influenced
by cosmetics Jezebel painted eyelids—
approximately 840 BC.
In the 19th century, Queen Victoria publicly
declared makeup improper, vulgar, and
acceptable only for use by actors.

Make-up was in general especially during the

1870s when social etiquette became more
rigid.
Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of
years. The absence of regulation of the
manufacture and use of cosmetics has led to
negative side effects, deformities, blindness,
and even death through the ages. Examples of
this were the prevalent use of ceruse(white
lead).

The worldwide annual expenditures for

cosmetics today is estimated at $19 billion. Of
the major firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which
was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as
the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company
(now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 26% and
Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is traded
publicly).
Like most industries, cosmetic companies resist regulation by
government agencies like the FDA, and have lobbied against this
throughout the years. The FDA does not have to approve or review
the cosmetics, or what goes in them before they are sold to the
consumers.

The FDA only regulates against the colors that can be used in the
cosmetics and hair dyes. The cosmetic companies do not have to
report any injuries from the products; they also only have voluntary
recalls on products.

COSMETIC SAFETY VEDIO

Numerous published reports have raised
concern over the safety of a few surfactants.
SLS causes a number of skin issues.

Parabens can cause skin irritation and contact

dermatitis in individuals with paraben allergies,
a small percentage of the general population.

Prolonged use of makeup has also been linked

to thinning eyelashes.

Fragrances are made of many ingredients

which cause allergic reactions.
€ Hair Care: Shampoo & Hair Colour
€ Lipstick, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner and lip
boosters.
€ Foundation used to smooth out the face and cover spots or
uneven skin coloration. Usually a liquid, cream, or powder.
€ Powder, used to set the foundation, giving a matte finish, and
also to conceal small flaws or blemishes.
Mascara is used to darken, lengthen, and thicken the eyelashes

Eyelid glue, eye liner, eye shadow, eye shimmer, and glitter eye
pencils as well as different color pencils used to color and
emphasize the eyelids (larger eyes give a more youthful
appearance).

Nail polish, used to color the fingernails and toenails.

Concealer, Makeup used to cover any imperfections of the skin.

Lip stain is a cosmetic product that contains either water or a

gel base.
Make-up remover is the product used to remove the make-up
products applied on the skin. It is used for cleaning the skin for
other procedures, like applying any type of lotion at evening
before the person go to sleep.
 Eye shadow being applied

Broadway actor Jim Brochu applies make-up before the opening night of a play.

The chin mask known as chutti for Kathakali, a performing art in Kerala, India is
considered the thickest makeup applied for any artform.
Also included in the general category of
cosmetics are skin care products. These
include creams and lotions to moisturize
the face and body which are often
formulated for different skin types per
range, sunscreens to protect the skin from
UV radiation and damage, skin
lighteners, and treatment products to
repair or hide skin imperfections
(wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.),
tanning oils to brown the skin.
While there is assurance from the largest
cosmetic companies that ingredients have
passed quality tests and official
regulations, and are therefore generally
safe to use, there is a growing preference
for cosmetics that are without any
"synthetic" ingredients, especially those
derived from petroleum.
Ingredients' listings in cosmetics are
highly regulated in many countries.
EEC 76/768
Organic and natural ingredients
Even though many cosmetic products are
regulated, there are still health concerns
regarding the presence of harmful chemicals
within these products.

With many new products released into the

market every season, it is hard to keep track of
the safety of every product. Some products
carry carcinogenic contaminant.

Many cosmetic companies are coming out

with "All natural" and organic products. All
natural products contain mineral and plant
ingredients and organic products are made
with organic agricultural products.
The cosmetic industry is a profitable business for most
manufacturers of cosmetic products. By cosmetic products, we
understand anything that is intended for personal care such as skin
lotions or sun lotions, makeup and other such products meant to
emphasize one's look.
The cosmetic industry has not only grown only in the United
States, but also in various parts of the world which have become
famous for their cosmetic. Some of these include France, Germany,
Italy and Japan. It has been estimated that in Germany, the
cosmetic industry generated sales of EUR 12.6 billion at retail
sales, in 2008 which made of German cosmetic industry the 3rd in
the world, after Japan and the United States. Also, it has been
shown that in the same country, this industry has grown with
nearly 5 percent in one year, from 2007 to 2008.
The European Commission and the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) are the two bodies making legislation in what
concerns cosmetic industry and its various aspects within the
European Union, respectively in the United States. In the European
Union, the circulation of cosmetic products and their safety are law
subjects since 1976. One of the newest amendments of the directive
concerning cosmetic industry comes as a result of the attempt to ban
animal testing.
 A professional make-up artist servicing a client

A beauty adviser provides product advice based on the client's

skin care and makeup requirements. Beauty advisers can
become certified through the Anti-Aging Beauty Institute.
 Supermodel Alek Wek receiving make-up from a professional.

Professionals in cosmetics marketing careers manage research focus

groups, promote the desired brand image, and provide other
marketing services (sales forecasting, allocation to different retailers,
etc.).

Supermodel Alek Wek receiving make-up from a professional.

€ Acne
Acne is an inflammatory skin disease that’s made evident by
pimples that can appear on almost any part of the body, but are
usually on the face.
€ Acrylic
Something that’s acrylic has the property of being able to repel
water or moisture.
€ Allergen
An allergen is something that produces an allergic reaction.
€ Allantoin
Allantoin, extracted from a plant, is used in creams and skin
preparations to heal and soothe.
€ Beeswax
Beeswax has been used in cosmetics for centuries, mostly for its
emulsifying properties.
• Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera is a plant that has wonderful healing and softening
properties. Many people have an Aloe Vera house plant, because
you can break off a piece and use the extract from inside to soothe
and heal cuts, burns and abrasions. It’s a very common ingredient in
cosmetics because of it’s softening properties.
• Astringent
An astringent, as part of the facial cleansing system, is commonly
known as toner, and it controls oily skin and lowers the pH of the
face after cleansing. Basically, it draws tissues together.
• Almond oil
Almond oil is vegetable oil made with almonds. It’s used in
cosmetic products that soften the skin.
•. Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is a common ingredient found in acne treatments,
used for its antibacterial properties.
• Bergamot
The Bergamot tree is grown predominantly in southern Italy. The
Italians make an oil from the rind of the bergamot tree’s citrus fruit,
which is good as an antiseptic, a cleanser, and a deodorizer.
• Blackhead
A blackhead is a type of pimple that forms when the pores of the skin
get clogged with oils and impurities..

• Bronzers
Bronzers are products that darken the skin to make it look naturally
tanned.
• Buffer
A buffer is a pH-balanced cleanser that makes the skin shinier and softer.
• Butcher’s Broom
Butcher’s Broom is a plant extract that’s used to “sweep away” redness in the
face.

• Ceramides
Ceramides is a substance that protects the skin against moisture loss. It’s also
synthetically-reproduced in skin care products.

•Citric acid
Citric acid has many uses. It’s used in skincare products as an astringent and an
antioxidant.
• Clarifying
Clarifying lotion is the toner part of a cleansing system that balances the pH of the
skin after cleansing.
• Eczema
Eczema is an inflammatory condition that causes the skin to
become red, scaly and itchy.
• Elastin
Elastin is used in cosmetics to protect the skin from getting dry.

• Emollient
An emollient is something that soothes and softens the skin.
• Emulsifier
An emulsifier is a substance added to a product to thicken it.
• Epilation
Epilation is the process of removing hair from beneath the surface
of the skin.
• Esthetician
An esthetician is a professional trained to give beauty treatments like
facials, manicures, and pedicures.
• Evening primrose
Evening primrose is a natural substance used as a toner or
moisturizer.

• Glycerin
Glycerin can be found in moisturizers; it holds water particles
together.
• Glycolic peel
A glycolic peel is a method used to exfoliate or remove dead layers of
skin.
• Hydrate
When you hydrate skin, you add moisture to it.
• Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a white crystalline compound used in skincare
products as a bleaching agent.
• Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition caused by ultraviolet light
from the sun, which darkens the skin.
• Jojoba
Jojoba is a multi-purpose substance, used as a moisturizer, as well
as to reduce wrinkles and stretch marks.
• Lactic acid
Lactic acid is a natural ingredient in the body that moisturizes the
skin.
• Lanolin
Lanolin is a fatty substance made from wool, that moisturizes and
emulsifies, as well as absorbs water.
• Malic acid
Malic acid comes from raw fruit, like apples, cherries and tomatoes,
and is used as a glycolic agent.
• Mallow
Mallow is a softening agent made from plants, that helps reduce
inflammation, age lines, and eye swelling.
• Melanin
Melanin is the dark pigment in hair and skin.
• Panthenol
Panthenol, or vitamin B5, is used as a moisturizer.
• Petrolatum
Petrolatum is another word for petroleum jelly. It’s used in creams
as a lubricant, to soften and soothe the skin. It also seals in moisture.
• Photoaging
Photoaging is damage to the skin caused by too much exposure to the
sun.
• Photosensitivity
Photosensitivity is a skin condition, manifested in rashes or swelling,
that results from applying or eating certain chemicals or foods, then
exposing the skin to sunlight.
• Phytocosmetics
Phytocosmetics are cosmetics that are made with natural ingredients
from plants.
• SPF
SPF is an acronym for sun protection factor. Sunscreen products have
an SPF; the higher the SPF, the more protection you get from
sunburn.
• Sunscreen
Sunscreen is a product, usually a cream, that’s applied to the skin to
protect it from getting sunburned. The amount of protection is
governed by its SPF.
• Sunblock
Sunblock, as opposed to sunscreen, is a lotion that actually blocks the
ultraviolet rays of the sun. It’s more effective than sunscreen.
• Surfactant
A surfactant is an ingredient that promotes an efficient mixture of oil
and water.
• Tartaric acid
Tartaric acid comes from apples and is used to promote the texture
and tone of the skin.
• Tea tree oil
Tea tree oil is a natural preservative that’s used in soap, shampoo and
skin care products to clean and disinfect.
•
• Vitamin A
Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin. A deficiency in vitamin A can
cause toughening and hardening of the skin.
• Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin. It’s used in anti-aging creams
because of it’s preservative and antioxidant properties.

•Vitamin D
Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin. It promotes strong bones and
teeth, but can be detrimental if collected in the skin as a result of too
much exposure to the sun.
• Vitamin E
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin. Its antioxidant properties make it
useful for promoting healthy skin and hair.
• Wheat germ oil
Wheat germ oil, an ingredient found in natural cosmetics, aids in
renewing skin cells. It also has a large quantity of vitamin E in it.
• Zinc oxide
Zinc oxide is a chemical compound that was originally used as a
whitening face powder around the beginning of the 20th century.
It’s quite often found in sun protection products because of its
ability to protect. It also soothes and heals the skin.
 SKIN CHEMISTRY
A composition that is applied to
healthy, intact skin will partially
absorb into the stratum corneum
(SC) and its components will
partition into the bricks-and-mortar
structure of the SC depending on
their chemical and physical
properties. In addition, the vehicle
or formulation can affect the SC
either by lowering its resistance
and thus accelerate penetration, or
by providing additional strength
and protection to retard
penetration.
Although not designated as such, many
materials are included in cosmetic
formulations as permeation enhancers and
these hold the potential to affect skin barrier
integrity. For example, ethanol, oleic acid
and some surfactants are known to affect the
thermodynamics of intercellular lipids in the
SC, changing their organization from rigid
gel crystalline to liquid.1 This process
accelerates penetration of the enhancers and
other components in the formula.

Two similar formulations containing the

same percentage of active compound, but
differing in vehicle, can exhibit different
penetration profiles into and through the
skin.
The End
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 SATISFACTION

MARKETING
CUSTOMER
CUSTOMER

R&D
PRODUCT &
SERVICE
SUPPLY CHAIN
(PLANNING & WAREHOUSING)

SUPPLY CHAIN MANUFACTURING

DISTRIBUTION Production/Testing
Marketing is the activity, set of institutions, and processes
for creating, communicating, delivering, and exchanging
offerings that have value for customers, clients, partners,
and society at large.

It generates the strategy that underlies sales techniques,

business communication, and business developments. It is
an integrated process through which companies build
strong customer relationships and create value for their
customers and for themselves.
The Marketing Mix, also known as the 4 P's of Marketing, is the
combination of product, price, place (distribution), and
promotion.
Customer
Focus
Product → Solution

Price → Value

Place → Access

Promotion → Information
Business Strategy vs Marketing Strategy

Positioning Strategy

Segmentation

Go to Market Strategy

Go to Market Options
{Advertising & Promotions, Telemarketing, Internet}

Face to Face Alternatives

{Independent Sales Agent, Reseller, Integrators,
Alliance}
 Orientation Profit driver Period Description

Relationship Building and Emphasis is placed on the whole relationship

marketing / keeping good 1960s to between suppliers and customers. The aim is
Relationship customer present day to provide the best possible customer service
management[9] relations and build customer loyalty.
In this context, marketing takes place between
Building and businesses or organizations. The product focus
Business
keeping lies on industrial goods or capital goods rather
marketing / 1980s to
relationships than consumer products or end products.
Industrial present day
between Different forms of marketing activities, such as
marketing
organizations promotion, advertising and communication to
the customer are used.
Similar characteristics as marketing orientation
but with the added proviso that there will be a
Social Benefit to 1990s to
curtailment of any harmful activities to society,
marketing[9] society present day
in either product, production, or selling
methods.
In this context, "branding" is the main company
2000s to
Branding Brand value philosophy and marketing is considered an
present day
instrument of branding philosophy.
Research can be defined as the search for knowledge, or as any
systematic investigation, with an open mind, to establish novel
facts, usually using a scientific method.

The primary purpose for applied research (as opposed to basic

research) is discovering, interpreting, and the development of
methods and systems for the advancement of human knowledge on
a wide variety of scientific matters of our world and the universe.
Scientific research relies on the application of the scientific
method, a harnessing of curiosity. This research provides
scientific information and theories for the explanation of the
nature and the properties of the world around us. It makes
practical applications possible. Scientific research is funded by
public authorities, by charitable organizations and by private
groups, including many companies. Scientific research can be
subdivided into different classifications according to their
academic and application disciplines.

Artistic research, also seen as 'practice-based research', can

take form when creative works are considered both the research
and the object of research itself. It is the debatable body of
thought which offers an alternative to purely scientific methods
in research in its search for knowledge and truth.
€ Research & Development Stages
• Working on new Products & Development of Concurrent
Products

• Development Planning

• Development Input

• Development Output

• Review, Verification & Validation

• Design Development Changes

 Source of Formulation
• Current Product

• Competitor Product

• Supplier

• Magazine

• Internet

• Relationship

Lab vs Pilot
 L’OREAL R & D FACTS
3,313 employees of 60 different nationalities working in 30 different disciplines

€ 609 million dedicated to cosmetic and dermatological research in 2009

18 research centers across the world and 13 evaluation centers in the world

1/3 of the R&D budget devoted to Advanced Research

5 000 formulas developed each year

674 patents filed in 2009

100 active cooperation agreements with leading academic and research

institutions

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The End

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Supply chain management (SCM) is the management of a
network of interconnected businesses involved in the ultimate
provision of product and service packages required by end
customers.

Supply chain management spans all movement and storage of

raw materials, work-in-process inventory, and finished goods
from point of origin to point of consumption (supply chain).
 Warehouses &
Suppliers Manufacturers Distribution Centers Customers

Transportation Transportation
Costs Costs
Material Costs Transportation
Manufacturing Costs Inventory Costs Costs
59
 Plan Source Make Deliver Buy
Plan Source Make Deliver Buy

Suppliers Manufacturers Warehouses & Customers

Distribution Centers

Transportation Transportation
Material Costs Costs Costs Transportation
Manufacturing Costs Inventory Costs Costs

60
€ Inventory and back-order levels fluctuate considerably
across the supply chain even when customer demand
doesn’t vary
€ The variability worsens as we travel “up” the supply chain
€ Forecasting doesn’t help!
Multi-tier
Suppliers Wholesale Consumers
Manufacturer Distributors Retailers

Sales

Sales
Sales

Sales

Time Time Time

Time

Bullwhip Effect
61
 INTERMEDIATE
F SUPPLIERS COMPANY F
CUSTOMERS
I I
N N
Value
ValueCreation
Creation(Product/Service
(Product/ServiceDevelopment)
Development)Process
Process
A A
L L
Information/Demand Flows
C C
O O
Sourcing Operations Logistics
N N
S S
U Value
ValueDelivery
Delivery(Order
(OrderFulfillment)
Fulfillment)Process
Process U
M M
E Value
ValueMaintenance
Maintenance(After
(AfterSale
SaleService
Service&&Support)
Support)Process
Process E
R R
S S
 Judgment Methods
Market Research Analysis

Panels of Experts

• Internal experts
• External experts
• Domain experts • Market testing
• Delphi technique • Market surveys
• Focus groups

Time-Series Methods Accurate

Forecasts
Causal Analysis

• Moving average
• Exponential smoothing
• Trend analysis • Relies on data other than that
• Seasonality analysis being predicted
• Economic data, commodity data, etc.

64
6M Strategy

• Man
• Machine
• Materials
• Method
• Measurement
• Maintenance
Role of Machine (Input vs Output)

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AUTOMATION - MANUFACTURING

AUTOMATION – SHAMPOO

AUTOMATION – HAIR COLOUR

 € Raw, Packing Materials, Bulk & FG Testing
€ Testing of water
€ Product Testing

• Appearance
• Colour
• Odor
• pH @ 25 oC {2.85 to 8.5}
TOC Analyzer Liquid Particle Counter • Viscosity @ 25oC {10,000 to 75,000
cps}
• Specific Gravity {0.80 to 1.0}
• Stability Test 48 Hour at 50 oC
• Microbial Bioburden Test
No Pathogenic organism
€ Specification & Testing Methods
€ List of Instruments
Viscometer & pH Meter
€ Hair Colour Testing
€ Torque Testing
€ Tube Leakage
€ Supplier Qualification (Open vs Close) & COAs
€ Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
€ Sampling Technique (ISO 2859)
€ Compliance of Lab., requirements
(ISO/IEC 17025)
The End

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