Geography Notes- Half Yearly 2011.

Coastal Management
General Notes: o Many people are concerned with the coast due to the 500,000 people living there and a future 21 million will live there. o The coastal zone is the coastal hinterland and the inner continental shelf as well as everything in between such as beaches and estuaries. It needs to be sustained for future Australians. Environments found are: - Mountain ranges - Flood plains - River and lakes - Rainforests - Mangroves - Estuaries - Beaches - Coral reefs - Seagrass beds - Continental plate o Sustainable development means that our use of coastal resources must meet the needs of the present population without endangering the ability of our future generations to meet their own needs. o The majority of Australia's World Heritage sites are located in the coastal zone. Many Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander heritage sights are also located there and include things such as identification and preservations of middens, art sites and etc. Coastal Landforms o 85% of Australias population lives in coastal towns and cities. o Coastal features were formed in the last 6000 years. Landforms are formed by two main processes erosion and deposition. o Common landforms from erosion are: (27% of landforms are produced by erosion) - Cliffs - Rock platforms - Headlands - Caves - Blowholes - Stacks and arches o Common landforms from deposition are: (73% of landforms are produced by erosion) - Beaches

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Spits Dunes Estuaries Lagoons Winds and waves transfer energy. Destructive waves form when winds are strong and waves are large and can lead to rock eroding and sediment being removed. Just means the waves take everything like sand from the beach. o Constructive waves are smaller and contain far less energy. They deposit material. It just means they build the beaches instead of destroying them. o Sand dunes are formed by the wind when dry sand is blown to the back of the beach and trapped. Grasses and other vegetation trap the sand. Therefore it makes the foredune and backdune. Coastal Processes Landforms are formed by two main processes erosion and deposition. Ocean Processes o Ocean covers 71% of the Earths surface and has a major influence on the coastal zone. o Impact is felt through waves, tides, currents, water temperature, salinity and tectonic forces. Formation of waves o Waves are formed in the ocean and originate thousands of kilometres from the beach. o The size is determined by wind velocity, the length of the ocean over which the wind blows and duration of the wind. o The largest waves are produced by strong winds that blow for a long time over a wide expanse of ocean. o Waves vary over time and space and this seasonal variation in size, character and direction is called wave climate. When Waves Hit the Shore o o o o Water particles orbit within the wave Movement is interrupted at the seabed as the wave moves into shallow water. Base of the wave is slowed by friction against the seabed. Top of the wave continues at the original speed, making the waves higher until it breaks. o Offshore topography determines how the wave breaks. o Spilling waves- occur when the seabed rises gently. o Plunging waves- (tubing waves) curl over at the crest of the wave because the seabed rises steeply.

o Surging waves- occur where the waves run up a very steep slope without appearing to break. Longshore Drift o Waves approach at an angle o The swash travels up the beach in the same direction as the wave but gravity pulls the backwash straight down the beach to sea carrying sediment with it. The material is then transported along the beach in a zigzag movement in the direction of the prevailing wind. Rips o Rips move sediments in localised, fast flowing currents towards the sea. o They are caused by height and duration of waves and the shape of the seabed. Tides o They are due to the gravitational force of the moon and sun acting on the rotating earth. o Tides move a lot of sediment into and out of bays and estuaries. o The plant and animal life of tidal wetlands rely on this steady stream of water to survive. Storm Surges o Storm surges are a rise in sea level from an intense storm. o Cyclonic spinning winds whip up the ocean surface and create low pressure on the sea, allowing the surface to rise. o If this occurs at the same time as an incoming tide or the discharge from a flooded river. It can cause severe damage. (e.g QLD floods) Processes of Coastal Erosion o Three main ways that sea can erode land are: 1. Hydraulic action- the sheer force of the waves hitting the shore. 2. Corrasion- when waves hurl material such as sand or rocks against the shore or when waves roll particles back and forth across the shore. Sand and rock particles are very effective tools for abrading (or wearing down). 3. Corrosion- when weaker layers of rock dissolve in sea water or disintegrate because of salt crystallisation. o When wave energy is high for example in storms you get more erosion but in deposition you get it in calm conditions, the wave energy is too low. o Headland formation is when the waves erode the softer rock and it wears away slowly to create a headland. o As waves approach the coast, the wavefront bends to reflect the shape of the coastline. This bending of the waves is called refraction.

Natural Processes Affecting the Coast o The three stages in the formation of a wave are: 1. The wind form ripples. 2. Then form wavelets 3. Then the wave o A fetch is a distance the wind travels over the ocean. It is important because it determines the size of the wave, the smaller the fetch the smaller the wave and vice versa. o Open ocean waves differ from waves closer to shore because they move in an up and down motion causing a swell and the waves that are closer to shore take energy from the wind from them. o Wavelength is how long the wave is from crest to crest. o Wave height is how high the wave is from trough to the crest. o Wave breaks are when the wave release all their energy and forms a surf and swash zone. Case Study: Coastal Management of Gold Coast o o o o Many tourists (80,000 per day), this are famous for its beaches and theme parks. 6th largest city in Australia and fastest growing. There are a number of coastal processes including storm surges, long shore drift. Big developers have targeted the immediate forefront of beaches (view, beach access etc) o In 1968 Beach Protection Act passes by QLD government. o Two strategies were used to protect beaches- rock walls i.e. groynes and beach nourishment.

Managing the Coastal Environment

Groynes

An artificial structure Traps sand and maintains designed to trap sand the beach. being moved by longshore drift, therefore protecting the beach. They can be built using timber, concrete, steel pilings and rock. Structures placed parallel to the shoreline to separate the land area from the water. Prevents further erosion of the dune area and protects the buildings.

Sea Wall

The base of the sea wall will be undermined over time. Visual eyesore. Will need a sand nourishment program as well. High initial cost. Ongoing maintenance and cost. Destroys surfing amenity of the coast. Requires large boulders in large quantities. Cost would be extremely high. Loss of revenue to the local council. Possible social problems with residents who must move. Exposes the backdune area which will need protection. Cost will be extremely high. Does not solve sand loss.

Offshore breakwater

A structure parallel to the shore and placed in a water depth of about 10 metres.

Waves break in the deeper water reducing their energy at the shore.

Purchase property Buy the buildings and remove structures which are threatened by erosion.

Allows easier management of the dune area. Allows natural beach processes to continue. Increases public access to the beach.

Waste Management