Instruction Manual

Welcome to quality Model Rocketry!

XP Series
Congratulations on purchasing one of QModeling's XP Series model rockets - the XP-RAPTOR. The XP Series is QModeling's original line of top quality sports class model rockets. The XP-RAPTOR was designed to leverage existing and extra parts to produce a sleek and unique original kit. Resembling a Nike-Ajax the XP-RAPTOR is a based on a BT-60 size main body tube tapering to a BT-55 parachute compartment. The XP-RAPTOR is over 37 inches tall and its slender profile and light construction makes for spectacular high flights. QModeling's XP-RAPTOR is a 24mm motor design enabling the use of C, D, E, and F 24mm rocket motors creating low an incredible high altitude launches. It may seem a bit early to speak of performing a count down, but with QModeling's high quality laser cut parts and easy step-by-step instructions your own XP-RAPTOR will be blasting to new altitudes in no time. QModeling's engine mount, primary fin design, and professional recovery system not only helps to ensure correct construction for a successful first flight, but also increases durability for long lasting enjoyment

Before beginning assembly please take a moment to read through the entire instruction manual and study the different figures. It won't take long. Doing so will make assembly easier and contribute to a successful first flight. Remember to work slowly and follow the instructions as shown. Check off boxes for each step have been provided to keep track of completed steps. .WARNING!!! A MODEL ROCKET IS NOT A TOY, IT IS CAPABLE OF CAUSING SERIOUS BODILY INJURY AND PROPERTY DAMAGE. IT IS THE BUYERS RESPONSIBILITY TO BUILD THIS KIT CORRECTLY AND LAUNCH IT UNDER THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF ROCKETRY SAFETY CODE.

Model Raptor
Skill Level 2

Version 4.0

207 Mill Valley Rd, Middleburgh, NY 12122 Phone: (518) 827-3107, Fax: (518) 827-3007

Decal and Paint Scheme Renders

White Nose Cone

Short Stripe Decal

White Upper Body Tube

/" 4

8"

CG Loaded Decal (2X)

180

White Secondary Fin

Test Conn Decal (3X) Black Transition Long Stripe Decal (2X)

180 US Army Decal (2X) Center Decal between stripes Gray Lower Body Tube

/" 4

/" 8

Gray Retro Rockets (optionally paint Red) Gray Primary Fin

Primary Fin Decal (3X) Note it is a two part decal that overlaps

Forward of Rocket
Parachute Compartment C-Ring Shock Cord Bumper Main Nose Cone w/Eyelet

Unpack your XP-RAPTOR and check to make sure all parts are accounted for. If parts are missing contact QModeling by sending an e-mail to [email protected]. The (#X) designator indicates how many of a given part there should be, for example Primary Fins (3X) indicates there should be 3 Primary Fins. Please note any part labeled with a MF designator is a "Make From" part. This means you will be making the part from the material supplied, for example the Launch Lugs.
Parachute w/Shroud Lines Heat Shield

Upper Main Body Tube Snap Swivel Secondary Fins (3X) Kevlar Shock Cord

Launch Lug (MF) Transition Cone Wrap (shown formed)

Lower Main Body Tube Transition C-Ring (3X)

Transition Cone Tab Fin Bulkheads (6X)

Primary Fins (3X)

Engine Hook FFD Antennas (3X)

Support Brace (3X)

XP - C.G. LOADED WEIGHT 4247 LBS. XP - C.G. LOADED WEIGHT 4247 LBS.
TEST CONN. TEST CONN.

Forward Centering Ring

TEST CONN.

Engine Mount Tube

Fin Brace (3X)

Please note the Parts Ordering form in your kit. Use this form to order replacement or additional parts.

Decals Thrust Rings (2X) Hex Rings (4X)

Additional Items Needed

r Brain r Scissors r Hobby Knife r Pencil r Ruler r Paint Brush r Long Cotton Swab Sticks (not Q-Tips) r(i.e., ZAP) CA Glue r Wood Glue r 220-400 grit Sandpaper, r Sanding Block r Sanding Sealer

Rear Centering Ring

Rear of Rocket

rLight Gray Primer Spray Paint White or r Enamel Spray Paint Gloss White r Enamel Spray Paint Gloss Gray r Enamel Spray Paint Gloss Black

Assembly Tip
Read all instructions and locate all parts before beginning assembly. Find or procure all additional items. Organize a suitable work area and layout parts and tools in front of you. Test fit all parts together during each assembly step before applying any glue, especially when using CA. If any parts don't fit sand as needed to ensure precise assembly. Don't rush, work methodically through each step ensuring you complete the previous step before moving onto the next step.

Forward versus Rear

It is imperative you understand the difference between the FORWARD and REAR ends of a rocket to fully comprehend the instructions. The forward end is towards the Main Nose Cone and the rear end is towards the Engine Hook. Refer to the exploded view on page 3 and note how certain parts are labeled based on their relative location to the Forward and Rear ends, for example the Forward Centering Ring.

Working with CA Glue

Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue is both a blessing and a curse. It bonds and hardens very quickly enabling you to proceed from stepto-step, but the fast drying time also minimizes the amount of time you have to adjust the position of parts. The key to working with CA glue is to make sure you understand the steps and test fit all parts prior to gluing. Don't use an accelerator. Most CA glues (i.e., ZAP) come in a variety of drying times. We recommend a mid-drying time (i.e., ZAP, Green 5-10 seconds) for general purpose use. Be careful to avoid getting glue on your fingers and skin. Should you accidentally glue your fingers together use nail polish remover to soften the CA. ONE FINAL NOTE, CA GIVES OFF FUMES WHICH CAN IRRITATE EYES AND LUNGS. MAKE SURE YOU USE CA WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION.

Assembly Attack Strategy

It is always a good idea to have an attack strategy when building a model and is one reason we stress reading the entire manual first. The instructions are broken into four main sections - Engine Mount Assembly & Installation, Upper & Lower Main Body Tube Assemblies, Finishing, and Final Assembly, The easiest assembly strategy is to simply start with the Engine Mount Assembly & Installation and perform each step in sequence through all four main sections. To speed up the process during times when glue needs to dry, other steps can be done in parallel, for example preparing the Main Nose Cone. Understanding fully all steps could also help identify other steps that can be done in parallel. What ever your strategy is make sure you understand the entire assembly process, check off steps, and ensure any parallel assembly doesn't effect other assembly steps. All time estimates are based on performing the assembly one step at a time.

Weight, Weight, Weight !

Watching weight goes beyond your own belt line. Rockets shouldnt become Glue Bombs. There is a tendency to think more glue is better, it is not. Excess glue simply adds unnecessary weight and therefore decreases a rockets performance. The XP line of kits have been designed to be rugged kits for Sports Class Rocketry. Yes they are not designed for the high performance dudes, but are high quality kits for the fun- fly crowd. We encourage you to control weight and performance by limiting the amount of glue used for fillets, applying thin coats of primer and paint, sanding and shaping fins, and sanding down nose cones. There are thousands of great internet sites and forums to help with construction techniques, check them out!

Blowin in the Wind !

Upscale kits are great, but are typically more exposed to such real phenomena as Wind Cocking. Upscales are heavier and depending on the thrust spike of the motor used(i.e., D12, E9, etc.) they typically have lower take off speeds. The lower take off speed makes them more vulnerable to the wind. Proper engine sizing, flying in appropriate weather, using longer launch rods, and respecting the NAR Safety code will help stop you from Blowin in the Wind. We highly recommend Harry Stines book, Handbook of Model Rocketry to learn more about rocket flight dynamics.

Cleaning Plastic Molded Parts

We create our plastic parts using a two-part plastic modeling process that uses aluminum molds. The molds are split molds. The halves are clamped together and a two part liquid plastic is poured into the cavity. A core is then inserted squeezing the liquid plastic upwards between the cavity and the core. To prevent the mold cavity and core from sticking to the plastic as it hardens mold release is used. The mold release can interfere with finishing paint. To properly clean the plastic parts first wipe them down with a clean soft cloth. Apply isopropyl alcohol to a second soft clean cloth and wipe the parts thoroughly. Let parts dry and repeat the alcohol wipe down. Finally buff parts one last time with a dry soft cloth.

Its a Manual not a Bible!

We take pride in our manuals, but there is no way to convey years of modeling experience from a huge knowledge base of model rocketeers. We highly suggest searching the web for building techniques, joining a forum to help answer questions, and/or becoming a member of a club. Remember the best aspect of any hobby is sharing ideas, telling stories, and laughing with co-hobbyist.

Engine Mount Assembly and Installation (60-75 mins)

1. r the Engine Mount Tube end edges Lightly sand
(see figure) smooth using 220 grit sandpaper. Using a pencil and a ruler mark the locations for the Engine Hook and Rear Engine Mount Ring on the Engine Mount Tube as shown. Also create an Engine Hook guide line down the center of the Engine Mount Tube. Cut a 1/8 inch wide by 1/2 inch long slot into the tube starting at the Engine Hook location and moving forward using a hobby knife as shown. This slot enables the Engine Hook to be extended and retracted. By retracting the Engine Hook the finished XP-RAPTOR can be stood on its rear end.

Sand edge smooth

Engine Hook guide mark Engine Hook 1/8" Slot #2 Engine Mount Ring mark
1

/" 2

3 3/" 8

1 7/" 16
Sand edge smooth

2. r the Engine Mount Tube level or (1) Keeping

tilted slightly back towards the forward end, us a cotton swab stick to carefully run a bead of Wood glue around the inside diameter of the tube just to the rear of the Engine Hook slot. (2) Slip one of the two Thrust Rings into the tube and use a spent E-Size Rocket Motor or proper sized dowel to push the ring down into the tube until it hits the edge of the Engine Hook slot opening. DO NOT ALLOW ANY GLUE INTO THE NO GLUE AREA AS INDICATED IN STEP #4!

Forward End

Engine Hook Slot Opening Push down tube

1
Glue Bead 1st Thrust Ring Rear End

3. r #2 to install the 2nd Thrust Ring. Repeat step (1) Again keep the Engine Mount Tube level or tilted slightly back towards the forward end, us a cotton swab stick to carefully run a bead of Wood glue around the inside diameter of the tube just to the rear of the 1st installed Thrust Ring. (2) Slip the 2nd Thrust Ring into the tube and use a spent E-Size Rocket Motor or proper sized dowel to push the ring down into the tube until it hits the 1st installed thrust ring. DO NOT ALLOW ANY GLUE INTO THE NO GLUE AREA AS INDICATED IN STEP #4!

Froward End

Engine Hook Slot Opening Push down tube

1
Glue Bead 2nd Thrust Ring Rear End

4. r From the forward end run a fillet of Wood glue around the 1st ring and tube interface. Stand tube vertically on rear end allowing the glue to dry throughly (10-15 min) before moving onto the next step. DO NOT ALLOW ANY GLUE INTO ENGINE HOOK SLOT OR THE NO GLUE AREA AS INDICATED!

No Glue in Engine Hook Slot No Glue Area Run a glue fillet inside tube around Thrust Ring Double Thrust Ring

5. rEngine Hook to the Engine Hook Slot Align the opening and put the hook in place as shown. Test the movement of the Engine Hook in the slot by moving it back and forth. The hook should move freely when aligned with the Engine Hook guide mark created in step #1. If necessary trim the slot opening with a hobby knife until the hook moves freely. Note: the hook stops against the forward edge of the Thrust Rings.

Move hook back and forth

Align hook to slot Guide Mark

Place hook into slot

6. r end of the Engine Hook into the slit. Insert one

Align the notch in one of the four Engine Mount Rings with the Engine Hook and then slide ring down the Engine Mount Tube until it touches the pencil mark created in step #1. THIS RING IS THE SECOND AFT RING. Please note touching the mark will recess the Engine Mount Tube approximately 1/8 forward of the Main Body Tube. Ensure ring is square with Engine Mount Tube and then tack glue with CA in place at location shown. DO NOT COMPLETELY GLUE THE ENGINE MOUNT RING IN PLACE AT THIS TIME!

Ensure Ring is square and tack glue it here

Align Ring Notch 2

Slide Ring down tube to marked location

Remaining Rings

7. r align and slip on the remaining three Carefully

Engine Mount Rings (#1, #3, and #4) as shown. The #1 ring is slipped on from the rear and the #3 and #4 rings are slipped on from the front. Note previous installed ring #2 in step 5 is highlighted, failure to observe this ring as ring #2 can lead to building the Engine Mount assembly incorrectly.. DO NOT TACK GLUE THE RINGS AT THIS TIME!

4 3 3 2 1 Align Engine Hook notches in Rings before placement 2 Slide Rings on carefully

8. rEngine Mount Rings aligned With the temporarily install the three Fin Braces (FB1, FB2, and FB3) in place as shown. Note the 60 relationship difference between the Engine Hook and the Fin Braces. THIS RELATIONSHIP MUST BE CORRECT TO ENSURE CORRECT FINAL ASSEMBLY AND ALIGNMENT OF RACEWAY, LAUNCH LUG ASSEMBLY AND TUBE WRAP DECALS. Ensure all rings are square and then tack glue each ring to the Engine Mount Tube in three different spots around the tube using CA. DO NOT GLUE THE FIN BRACES AT THIS TIME!

Temporarily install Fin Braces to align Rings FB1

Note Hook in relation to Fin Braces

FB3 FB3

60 FB1

FB2 FB2 Tack Glue Spots around each ring

CAUE
GL

9. rthe Fin Braces and permanently glue Remove all rings to the Engine Mount Tube using Wood glue by running a fillet around each joint as shown. DO NOT GLUE ENGINE HOOK TO ENGINE MOUNT TUBE AND DO NOT RUN A FILLETS ON THE OUTER SIDE OF THE REAR ENGINE RING. Let glue set (10-15 min) before moving on to next step.
Run glue fillets along these joints

OD WOLUE G

Don't run glue fillet on outer joint

Don't glue Engine Hook to tube

them to all Engine Mount Rings using CA.

Glue Fin Braces in place Permanently install Fin Braces

Install Support Braces

12. r of Wood glue around the face of Apply a ring

the Rear Centering Ring as shown. Make sure the Rear Centering Ring notch is aligned with the Engine Hook and then slide it onto the front end of the Engine Mount Tube. Push ring up the tube until it meets with the rear Engine Mount Ring. Press ring firmly and let glue set (510 min). DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY GLUE ENGINE HOOK TO ANY SURROUNDING PARTS OF THE REAR CENTERING RING. IT MUST FREELY MOVE WITHIN NOTCH AND SLOT.
Align notch with Engine Hook Apply glue ring around inner face

D WOO E GLU

13. r of Wood glue around the forward Apply a ring

end of the Engine Mount Tube as shown. The bead should be roughly 1/8" from the tube end. Slip the Forward Centering Ring onto the forward end of the tube noting alignment of the Shock Cord attachment hole. Ensure the ring is square and let dry (10-15 min). DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY FILL SHOCK CORD ATTACHMENT HOLE WITH GLUE.

Forward Centering Ring

Shock Cord attachment hole

/" 8

Engine Mount Tube

CAUE

11. rSupport Braces and glue them Install all permanently into place using CA.

Apply glue ring around Engine Tube

GL

10. rthe Fin Braces and permanently glue Replace

CAUE
GL

Glue Support Braces in place

14. r Apply a bead of Wood glue as shown around

the Centering Rings and Engine Mount Tube to form a fillet. AGAIN DO NOT ACCIDENTALLY GLUE ENGINE HOOK OR FILL IN SHOCK CORD HOLE.

Apply glue bead as a fillet around each joint

Don't glue Engine Hook or Shock Cord hole

15. r Shock Cord around the Engine Wrap the Mount Tube and tie a double knot near the Shock Cord hole in the Forward Centering Ring. Tighten knot and apply a drop or two of CA glue onto the created knot. Finally thread the Shock Cord through the hole in the Forward Centering Ring and pull the remaining cord through it.
Apply Glue

Wrap Shock Cord around tube Tie Knot

GL A UE

Thread Shock Cord through Ring

16. rShock Cord into the Engine Mount Stuff the

Tube as shown in preparation for the next step. This will keep the Shock Cord out of the way. Hint: Use cotton balls to help keep Shock Cord in tube.
Stuff Shock Cord into Tube

17. r Engine Mount Assembly into the Test fit the Lower Main Body Tube. Note how the Engine Mount Primary Fin holes line up with the Lower Main Body Tube Primary Fin holes and how the Engine Mount Assembly is recessed about 1/8 of an inch into the Main Body Tube. Apply Wood glue to a cotton swab stick and create a bead of glue around inside of the Lower Main Body Tube approximately 5 " from rear as shown. Align the Lower Main Body Tube Primary Fin holes with the holes in the Fin Braces on the Engine Mount Assembly. Insert the Engine Mount Assembly into the Lower Main Body Tube keeping the Primary Fin holes aligned. MOVE QUICKLY TO NEXT STEP.

Apply glue to swab

D O O E W LU G

Align Fin Holes

App ro

xim a

tely

5 12 /"

Temporarily install Primary Fins Engine Hook

19. r Lower Main Body Tube Assembly Place the upside down (Rear End up) on the Lower Main Body Tube. Run a fillet of Wood glue around the Rear Centering Ring and the Lower Main Body Tube interface. Again let the glue dry throughly (10-15 minutes) before going to the next step.

OD WOLUE G

Apply glue fillet around Rear Centering Ring

Congratulations on a job well done!

Upper & Lower Main Body Tube Assemblies (75-90 mins)

1. r if you choose this is a good time to fill Optionally the spirals of the Upper and Lower Main Body Tube (illustration shows Lower Main Body Tube Assembly. Use hobby putty (i.e., Elmers Carpenters Wood Filler) to fill the spirals. You may need to thin down the hobby putty to the consistency of peanut-butter for easy application. Use a popsicle stick to apply putty to the spirals. Use a single edge razor blade to squeegee off excess and let dry thoroughly. Sand spirals smooth with 320 grit sandpaper. Apply additional coats and sand smooth as necessary. 2. r Find the paper Upper Main Body Tube Fin
Template on the back page of the manual. Hint: Optionally make a copy of the page to preserve the manual. Follow the instructions to cut the Fin Template out and assemble it around the Upper Main Body Tube. Mark the Upper Main Body Tube Secondary Fin locations as noted on the template with a pencil. These marks will be used to draw alignment lines for the Secondary Fins.

Apply Hobby Putty to spirals

Squeegee off excess

Sand smooth

Mark Upper Main Body Tube Secondary Fin line locations

C A UE

L G

18. rthe Lower Main Body Tube vertical to Keeping allow the glue bead to settle temporarily insert the Primary Fins in place as shown. Adjust the Engine Mount Assembly as needed to ensure the Primary Fins fit and are square to the Lower Main Body Tube. Using CA tack glue Engine Mount assemble into place around Rear Centering Ring as shown. DO NOT GLUE PRIMARY FINS INTO PLACE! Carefully remove the Primary Fins and place the Lower Main Tube Assembly upright on a flat surface and let the glue on the Forward Centering Ring applied in step #16 dry throughly (1520min).

Tack glue Engine Mount in place

Align and square Primary Fins

Let glue dry

Stand up on end

Hobby Putty

3. r Using a pencil create the Forward Upper Tube C-Ring marks on the Upper Main Body Tube through the slot in the Fin Template as illustrated. Slide the Fin Template off the Upper Main Body Tube revealing the three line marks and the Forward Upper Tube C-Ring marks. 4. r the Lower Main Body Tube assembly Now take and using the edge of a desk or door jam create a single Secondary Fin Alignment Mark by aligning a Primary Fin hole to the edge of the desk as shown.

Mark Forward Upper Tube C-Ring location

Align fin hole to desk edge

Create a single Secondary Fin Alignment Mark

5. r Create Secondary Fin Alignment Lines on the Upper Main Body Tube by aligning each mark created in step #2 to the desk edge and drawing a light pencil line up the tube approximately 3 inches. Repeat the process to create the other Secondary Fin Alignment Lines. Extend one of the lines down the length of the tube to the rear edge. This line will be used to align the Upper and Lower Main Body Tubes.

Desk Top Edge

Align Secondary Fin alignment mark

Create Secondary Fin alignment lines

Desk Top Edge

6. r Upper Tube C-Rings and slide two of Locate the them unto the Upper Main Body Tube. Slide the forward ring down to the mark created in Step #3. The rear ring should be flush with rear of the tube. Keeping rings square to the tube glue rings in place with CA. Let the glue dry thoroughly. Using Wood Glue apply fillets around the tube only the inside joints as shown.

Slide Upper Tube C-Rings unto Upper Tube Slide forward ring to mark

Add glue fillets to inside joints only

OD WOLUE G

7. r Using a cotton glue stick and Wood Glue apply

two rings of glue around inside surface of the Lower Main Body Tube assembly at the C-Ring locations as illustrated. Ensure the Lower Main Body Tube assembly Secondary Fin alignment mark and the extended Upper Main Body Tube assembly Secondary Fin alignment line are aligned. Push the Upper Main Body Tube assembly into the Lower Main Body Tube assembly until forward C-Ring is flush with forward edge of Lower Main Body Tube assembly. Keep alignment marks aligned and ensure the Upper and Lower tubes stay parallel lengthwise to each other.

Apply glue to inside tube C-Ring locations

Align marks Push tube in place

Keep marks aligned and forward C-Ring flush

10

CA E

Glue rings in place

U GL

8. r third Upper Tube C-Ring and apply a Locate the

film of Wood Glue to its face. Flip the C-Ring so the glue side is facing forward towards Lower Main Body Tube assembly and slide it down the Upper Main Body tube. Press the C-Ring firmly against the Forward Upper Tube C-Ring and let the glue dry. This ring will provide a gluing edge to the Upper Main Body Transition Cone.
Align ring glue face first to tube

Slide ring down tube and press in place

9. r CORRECT GLUE TYPE AT EACH USE THE STEP, FAILURE TO DO SO MAY CAUSE SHRINKAGE ISSUES. Locate the Transition Cone Wrap and the Transition Cone Tab. Apply a film of White glue to the top half of the tab as illustrated. Align the top half of the tab to the wrap as shown and press into place. Make sure the tab is centered side-to-side to ensure equal gaps between the tab and the wrap as shown. LET THE GLUE DRY THROUGHLY. Hint: This a good step to do as a parallel step.

Apply film of White glue to tabs top half

Find and test fit Tail Cone Wrap and Tail Cone Tab

Tab Gaps

10. r Start forming the Transition Cone assembly by

pulling it sharply across a table edge to stretch and precurl the wrap. Use a plastic pipe or similar item approximately 3/4 - 1 in diameter to help form the Transition Cone Wrap assembly. TAKE YOUR TIME AND DONT CREASE THE CONE. Be extra patient in forming the assembly around the tab area. Check the form of the assembly and ensure the seam will lay as flat as possible. Construction Hint: Use two paper clips to hold the assembly in its final shape and let the assembly sit for several hours. Go see a movie.
Use a dowel to form wrap assembly

Patience is a virtue

Draw across table edge

11

ITE WHLUE G

11. r of White glue to the other half of Apply a film Transition Cone Tab as illustrated. Align edges of the Transition Cone Wrap to form a perfect seam. Hold assembly in place with paper clips or tape until glue is throughly dry. Apply a film of glue on the back of the tab from inside the cone covering the tab to wrap joints and again let the glue dry throughly.

W GL HIT UE E

Word to the Wise: Constructing the Transition Cone requires patience and time. Dont attempt construction on a bad day, for example coming home from a miserable day at the office only to find the dog got into the garbage. Take your time and let glue dry throughly. Oh yeah and pet the dog.

W G OO LU D E

Apply a film of wood glue on C-Ring face

Align tab to wrap and press into place

Check the form of the wrap assembly

Align wrap edges and hold in place

12. r Transition Cone by sliding it down Test fit the the Upper Main Body Tube. Check the fit around the CRing and the tube. Using a pencil mark the rear location of the Transition Cone on the tube. Remove the cone and apply a bead of glue around the body tube, just forward of the mark location, and the C-Ring edge. Slide the Transition Cone back down the tube and into place. Wipe off any excess glue. Let the assembly dry thoroughly.
Construction Hint: This is good time to finish the seams on the Transition Cone. Apply appropriate amount of Hobby Putty and sand smooth. Repeat application of putty and sanding until desired result is reached.

Test fit the cone by sliding it into place Steps Mark rear location of cone

Slide cone into place

Apply beads Slide antennae into place

14. r recommend sanding and sealing We highly

the Fin assemblies balsa wood surfaces now by purchasing Sanding Sealer from your local Hobby store. Apply sealer to Primary Fin and Secondary Fin assemblies, balsa surfaces with a brush accept on the root edge and Primary Fin tab surfaces as noted (See illustration). Hint: cover root and tab surfaces with masking tap to protect them. This is very important since these areas are the gluing surfaces. Let sealer dry throughly. Lightly sand sealed surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper. Use a sanding block on flat surfaces when possible. Apply additional coats as needed to obtain desired finish. AGAIN DO NOT SEAL THE NOTED AREAS DURING APPLICATION OF THE SEALER!

DO NOT SEAL ROOT EDGES AND TAB AREAS

Apply Sealer

g Sandin Sealer

NOTE - PERFORMING THIS STEP IS NOT PART OF THE SECTION CONSTRUCTION TIME ESTIMATE! WARNING - ONLY USE AND APPLY SANDING SEALER IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND NEVER NEXT TO OPEN FLAMES!!!

12

CA E

GLU

CA E

GLU

13. r Fin Bulk Heads and FFD Antennas Test fit the to their associated Secondary or Primary fin. NOTE THE BULKHEADS AND ANTENNAS ARE DIFFERENT WIDTH. The bulkheads are wider then the antennas. The bulkheads are centered width wise with the fin root edges. They should protrude equally on either side of the associated fins. The antennas are smaller then the fin thickness. Like the bulkheads they should be centered so there is an equal gap on either side of the fin faces. Optionally these gaps can be filled with hobby putty. Apply a thin film of CA to the center of a Fin Bulkhead or Antenna as shown. Quickly align to appropriate fin and press in place. After the glue sets apply a thin CA bead to fin and bulkhead or retro rocket joint. DONT OVER GLUE!

Apply glue

Align to fin

D O O E W LU G

Apply rear and forward glue beads

Press in place

Apply on side tab face and notch edges Keep fins square

16. r Secondary Fin assemblies in place Test fit the by locating the alignment lines on the Upper Main Body Tube. The Secondary Fins assemblies start flush forward of the Transition Cone. Note keep them on the same side of the alignment line as the Primary Fins. Apply a bead of CA glue to the root edge of a Secondary Fin and the face Fin Bulkhead as shown. Ensure Secondary Fin assembly is aligned to alignment line and the associated Primary Fin and then press Secondary Fin assembly in place. Hold Secondary Fin assembly square until glue dries (20-25 seconds). Repeat process for remaining two Secondary Fin assemblies.

Apply glue to root edge

Secondary Fins are flush forward of Transition Cone

Apply glue fillets

13

WOOD GLUE

17. r glue apply glue fillets to one set Using Wood of Primary Fins and Secondary Fins to Main Body Tube joints. Once the glue has set (10-15 minutes) rotate the rocket assembly 120 and apply the next set of fillets. MAKE SURE FILLETS DO NOT RUN ONTO THE MAIN BODY TUBE, FIN FACES OR BULKHEADS. DON'T RUSH!

G LU

A
G A LU E

15. r Take a Primary Fin assembly and apply CA as shown to all surfaces that will contact the Engine Mount Assembly and Main Body Tube. Keeping the Primary Fin assembly square, insert the fin into one of the Main Body Tube Primary Fin holes and press firmly in place. Hold the fin square until glue dries (20-25 seconds). Repeat the process for the other two Primary Fins assemblies. Optionally use thicker CA glue if more assembly time is needed since thicker CA dries slower.

Apply on fin edges

Alignment lines

18. r supplied Launch Lug tubing and Locate the

using a hobby knife cut the tubing in half. Determine the Primary Fin Launch Lug location by noting relationship to the Engine Hook. The lug should be aligned on the same side as the Engine Hook. Apply a light film of CA glue on one side of lug as shown. Align lug to the lead edge of the Primary Fin and against the Fin Bulkhead as shown in the cameo and press in place until glue sets. Ensure lug remains parallel with the Lower Main Body Tube.
Apply glue

Note lug is against bulkhead

CAUE
GL

Launch Lug

Note Engine Hook location

19. r the Secondary Fin Launch Lug Determine location by noting how it is NOT AGAINST the Fin Bulkhead but rather a distance away from it to remain parallel with the Primary Fin Launch Lug. This is required due to the difference in diameters between the Lower and Upper Main Body Tubes. Use a proper length straight edge (ruler) to maintain the parallel relationship. Apply a light film of CA glue on one side as in step #18. Align lug to the trailing edge of the Secondary Fin as shown in the cameo and press in place until glue sets. Ensure lug remains parallel with the Primary Fin Launch Lug.
Launch Lug

Note lug is not against bulkhead

Straight Edge

Apply Wood glue to cotton swap Apply glue bead inside tube Push down tube and into glue bead

Use Hobby Knife to cut notch Align C-Ring to Main Body tube and Shock Cord

Shock Cord V-Notch

21. rC-Ring to the Upper Main Body Tube Align the and the C-Ring V-Notch to the Shock Cord. Slide the CRing into the tube and push it down the Upper Main Body Tube until contacts with the glue bead. Apply additional glue as needed. Set the rocket right side up (on fins) and let glue dry throughly.

14

OD WO E GLU

20. r a parachute compartment first push To create the Shock Cord forward out of the Engine Mount Tube and through the Main Body Tube. Cut a Shock Cord VNotch into the outside edge of the supplied C-Ring using a Hobby knife as shown below. Apply a bead of Wood glue carefully to the inside wall of the Upper Main Body Tube about 8 inches down tube as shown using a cotton swap stick attached to a longer stick (i.e., a dowel). KEEP THE GLUE AWAY FROM THE SHOCK CORD AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

Forward end

CAUTION: USE ADEQUATE VENTILATION FOR THIS STEP, SINCE THE CA GIVES OFF FUMES WHICH IRRITATE EYES AND LUNGS.
Test fit Nose Cone into Main Body Tube

Apply CA and smear to coat inside of tube

23. r Nose Cone into the top of the Test fit the Upper Main Body Tube. Lightly sand as needed with 220 grit sandpaper to ensure a slip fit. A good test is to hold the rocket nose-down. The Nose Cone should remain in place, but should come loose with a solid shake. DO NOT OVER SAND OR SAND SHOULDER LIP !!!

26. r The XP-RAPTOR has been designed to

produce a Center of Gravity (CG) 6.75 to 7.75 inches from the Primary Fins as illustrated. Test the CG by temporarily placing the parachute, heat shield, and snap swivel into the parachute compartment. Temporarily install a E9-6 engine and attached the Nose Cone. Find the point where the rocket balances. If the CG is too far back (tail-heavy), add weight to the nose using molding clay or epoxy. If the CG is too far forward (noseheavy), reduce the weight of the Nose Cone by sanding it or adding weight to the tail (engine tube recess area).

Place parachute, heat shield and, snap-swivel in parachute compartment.

6.75 - 7.75 Center Gravity

Add or reduce nose or tail weight as needed

Making a D-Engine Spacer

1. r a spent D-Engine and E-Engine and Take both set them side-by-side ejection charge end up. Using a pencil mark the height of the D-Engine onto the EEngine as shown. 2. r Using a razor saw cut the E-Engine at the mark to produce the spacer. 3. r and body of the spacer. Test fit into Sand edges Engine Mount Tube. Spacer should be loose for easy insertion and retraction.
E-Engine Cut off Spacer using razor saw

E-Engine D-Engine

Mark Spacer on E-Engine

15

CA

the forward end of the Upper Main Body Tube with CA. Use a finger wrapped in a plastic bag to smear CA evenly. Let dry and repeat process. After the CA has dried, sand the inner surface smooth with sandpaper 220 grit or finer.

G LU

22. r Soak approximately 1 of the inside surface of

Sand lightly as needed

Sand edges and body

Finishing
Now that your XP-RAPTOR is assembled it is time to add the finishing touches. Some modelers view model finishing - sanding, painting, and decaling as torture. Finishing enables you to bring out your personal signature or expression. There are many different finishing techniques that can be researched and implemented. The internet is full of web sites containing model finishing techniques and we encourage you to explore. How your XP-RAPTOR is actually finished is entirely up to you. Some rocket enthusiasts may finish their XPRAPTOR using our original color scheme, while others may add their own flare (no pun intended) by using a rainbow of colors. However you decide to finish your XP-RAPTOR the point is to finish it! The following steps will illustrate how to finish your XPRAPTOR using our original paint and decal scheme.

Lightly sand off any plastic flash or bumps

Check slip fit of Main Nose Cone sand if necessary

Ensure glue fillets are applied to Secondary Fins

Lightly sand Secondary Fins to remove any rough edges

Ensure Launch Lug is open

1. ryour Raptor start by ensuring all glue To finish fillets are in place, all plastic flash or mold bumps are removed from the plastic nose cone, any rough balsa edges are removed, and any nicks are repaired. Review the instructions and recheck all glue fillets, fix any problems. Using 220 grit sandpaper lightly sand off any remaining plastic flash or bumps on the nose cone. Use a sanding block and 220 grit sandpaper lightly sand balsa areas and remove any rough spots. Seal balsa areas as necessary. Check the Transition Cone seams and Fin Bulkheads and Retro Rocket joints. Repair any nicks using hobby putty and then sand smooth. Be careful not to over sand any area. Take your time. The time you spend on this step will be the greatest contributor to your final finish. BE DILIGENT AND THOROUGH!!! 2. r illustrations on page #2 to understand Study the the paint scheme of the Raptor before moving forward. Note you will be painting the Transition Cone using traditional masking and painting techniques.
It is important to allow paint to dry properly between coats. Improper drying time can cause previous paint layers to crinkle and/or peel. Follow the directions on the spray can regarding drying times. WARNING - ONLY USE AND APPLY SPRAY PAINT IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND NEVER NEXT TO OPEN FLAMES!!!

Ensure glue fillets are applied to Launch Lug Assembly Ensure glue fillets are applied to Primary Fins

Lightly sand Primary Fins to remove any rough edges

Move Spray Can quickly to avoid paint runs

e Lit ay r er G m i Pr

3. r White or Lite Gray Primer from a local Purchase Hardware or Hobby store. Set the rocket over a sheet of plastic to protect your work surface and make sure surrounding work area won't be affected. Apply an even coat of primer to the entire rocket. Keep the spray moving to avoid runs. Let primer dry throughly and then apply a second light coat. Again let primer dry and then lightly sand using 300-400 grit sandpaper. Repeat coats of primer and light sanding until you are satisfied with the coverage and overall finish.

Protective Plastic Sheet

16

4. r masking materials (i.e., Sheet Using hobby

stock and Tape) mask off the Lower Main Body Tube assembly roughly mid way down the Transition Cone. Purchase White Enamel Spray Paint from a local Hardware or Hobby store. Again set the rocket over a sheet of plastic to protect your work surface and to make sure surrounding work area won't be affected. Lightly apply an even coat of White Enamel Paint to the Upper Main Body Tube assembly. Keep the spray moving to avoid runs. Use a series of light coats to build up your desired finish instead of one heavy coat. Let paint dry throughly between coats.

Move Spray Can quickly to avoid paint runs

W En hite am el

Mask off rocket assembly as shown Protective Plastic Sheet

5. rMain Nose Cone over a sheet of Hold the

plastic to protect your work surface and to make sure surrounding work area won't be affected. Lightly apply an even coat of White Enamel Paint to the entire Nose Cone. Keep the spray moving to avoid runs. Use a series of light coats to build up your desired finish instead of one heavy coat. Let paint dry throughly between coats.
ite Wh mel a En

6. r masking materials (i.e., Sheet Using hobby stock and Tape) mask off the Upper Main Body Tube assembly just above the rear of the Transition Cone as shown. Purchase Gray Enamel Spray Paint from a local Hardware or Hobby store. Again set the rocket over a sheet of plastic to protect your work surface and to make sure surrounding work area won't be affected. Lightly apply an even coat of Gray Enamel Paint to the Lower Main Body Tube assembly. Keep the spray moving to avoid runs. Use a series of light coats to build up your desired finish instead of one heavy coat. Let paint dry throughly between coats.

Mask off rocket assembly as shown

Move Spray Can quickly to avoid paint runs

G En ray am el

Protective Plastic Sheet

7. r apply a ring of masking tape Carefully

completely around the forward and rear edges of the Transition Cone as shown to mask it off. Using hobby masking materials (i.e., Sheet stock and Tape) mask off the Lower and Upper Main Body Tube assemblies. Purchase Black Enamel Spray Paint from a local Hardware or Hobby store. Again set the rocket over a sheet of plastic to protect your work surface and to make sure surrounding work area won't be affected. Lightly apply an even coat of Black Enamel Paint to the Transition Cone. Keep the spray moving to avoid runs. Use a series of light coats to build up your desired finish instead of one heavy coat. Let paint dry throughly between coats.

Carefully mask off cone via tape

Mask off rocket assembly as shown

ck l la e B am En

17

8. rthe sheeting protecting the rocket Remove

assembly and carefully remove the masking tape to reveal the finished painted rocket assembly.

Finished painted XP-RAPTOR

9. r renders on page #2 to understand the Study the

placement of decals. The renders represent a complete 360 view of the Raptor. Use these different views to determine the exact location of each decal. Find each decal on the supplied decal sheets and understand its orientation. It is important to have a plan of attack. We recommend starting from the bottom and working towards the top. Whatever attack plan you use, take your time, and check the renders often to ensure proper placement.

Cut decal out of supplied decal sheets

Place decal in a warm dish of water

10. r cut out each decal using a hobby Carefully knife and/or a pair of scissors. Place the decal in a dish of warm water to remove the backing. Damp the surface were the decal will be applied with water thoroughly. Orient the decal to the model and slide it off the backing and onto the model. Pat and rub the decal down and use a soft cloth to remove any excess water.

11. r decals to ensure proper placement Check all and that all edges and surfaces of the decals are flat. Let decals dry thoroughly. Optionally apply an appropriate non-destructive clear coat to the entire rocket to protect decals and paint scheme.

Dampen surface first with water

Place decal on model and dry off excess water

Congratulations - on completing your QModeling XP Model RAPTOR!!!

18

Final Assembly (10-15 mins)

1. r Shock Cord Bumper and drill a Locate the
Shock Cord hole through the center. Pull the Shock Cord tautly out of the Main Body tube and thread it through the created hole of the bumper. Push the bumper down the Shock Cord until it is located approximately 1/4 from the forward end of the Upper Main Body Tube when the cord is taught. Use CA to glue the bumper permanently to the Shock Cord.

Thread Shock Cord through Bumper Drill Shock Cord hole

CAUE
GL

Glue in place

2. r Pull the Shock Cord tautly out of the Main Body

tube and thread it through the corner attachment hole located on the Heat Shield.
Thread Shock Cord through Heat Shield

Swivel as shown and secure it with a knot past the Heat Shield two-thirds of the way up the Shock Cord from the Main Body tube. Apply a drop or two of CA on the knot after pulling it tight.

Attach Snap Swivel beyond Heat Shield and 2/3 up Shock Cord

4. r Shock Cord through the Main Nose Thread the Cone Molded Hook and tie a knot around the Molded Hook. Place a drop or two of CA on knot to secure the Shock Cord to the Molded Hook.
Tie Shock Cord onto Eye Hook

5. r Parachute Shroud Lines together Group the forming a set of loops at one end. Ensure the Shroud Lines are not tangled. Unclasp the Snap Swivel and attach the Parachute loops to the Snap Swivel. Reclasp the Snap Swivel to secure the Parachute.

Clasp

Unclasp

6. r assembly by lightly wrapping the Finish final

Shroud Lines around the Parachute. Pack the Parachute, Heat Shield, and Shock Cord into parachute compartment of the Main Body Tube. Push the Main Nose Cone onto the Main Body Tube. Place completed XP-RAPTOR on flat surface and step back.
Attach Parachute onto Snap Swivel

TAKE A BOW OR TWO FOR SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETING ALL THE STEPS !

19

CA U E L

3. r Shock Cord through the Snap Thread the

Thread cord and form a knot

Pull knot tight apply CA

2/3

1/3

Apply CA to secure knot

GL A UE

National Association of Rocketry

Model Rocket Safety Code
1. Materials: I will use only lightweight, non-metal parts for the nose, body, and fins of my rocket. 2. Motors: I will use only certified, commercially-made model rocket motors, and will not tamper with these motors or use them for any purposes except those recommended by the manufacturer. 3. Ignition System: I will launch my rockets with an electrical launch system and electrical motor igniters. My launch system will have a safety interlock in series with the launch switch, and will use a launch switch that returns to the "off" position when released.

Remember only you can prevent Safety Hazards!

4. Misfires: If my rocket does not launch when I press the button of my electrical launch system, I will remove the launcher's safety interlock or disconnect its battery, and will wait 60 seconds after the last launch attempt before allowing anyone to approach the rocket. 5. Launch Safety: I will use a countdown before launch, and will ensure that everyone is paying attention and is a safe distance of at least 15 feet away when I launch rockets with D motors or smaller, and 30 feet when I launch larger rockets. If I am uncertain about the safety or stability of an untested rocket, I will check the stability before flight and will fly it only after warning spectators and clearing them away to a safe distance. 6. Launcher: I will launch my rocket from a launch rod, tower, or rail that is pointed to within 30 degrees of the vertical to ensure that the rocket flies nearly straight up, and I will use a blast deflector to prevent the motor's exhaust from hitting the ground. To prevent accidental eye injury, I will place launchers so that the end of the launch rod is above eye level or will cap the end of the rod when it is not in use. 7. Size: My model rocket will not weigh more than 1,500 grams (53 ounces) at liftoff and will not contain more than 125 grams (4.4 ounces) of propellant or 320 N-sec (71.9 pound-seconds) of total impulse. If my model rocket weighs more than one pound (453 grams) at liftoff or has more than four ounces (113 grams) of propellant, I will check and comply with Federal Aviation Administration regulations before flying. 8. Flight Safety: I will not launch my rocket at targets, into clouds, or near airplanes, and will not put any flammable or explosive payload in my rocket. 9. Launch Site: II will launch my rocket outdoors, in an open area at least as large as shown in the accompanying table, and in safe weather conditions with wind speeds no greater than 20 miles per hour. I will ensure that there is no dry grass close to the launch pad, and that the launch site does not present risk of grass fires. 10. Recovery System: I will use a recovery system such as a streamer or parachute in my rocket so that it returns safely and undamaged and can be flown again, and I will use only flame-resistant or fireproof recovery system wadding in my rocket. 11. Recovery Safety: I will not attempt to recover my rocket from power lines, tall trees, or other dangerous places

National Association of Rocketry

Launch Site Dimensions
Installed Total Equivalent Motor Minimum Site Impulse (N-sec) Type Dimensions (ft.) 0.00--1.25 1.26--2.50 2.51--5.00 5.01--10.00 10.01--20.00 20.01--40.00 40.01--80.00 80.01--160.00 160.01--320.00 1/4A, 1/2A A B C D E F G Two Gs 50 100 200 400 500 1000 1000 1000 1500

20

Pre-Launch Check List

1. r appropriate 24mm rocket engine. Select an
The table shown are engine recommendations that have been tested in the XP-RAPTOR. The actual 24mm engine selected from the availably 24mm engine market is solely the responsibility of the user. ACTUAL ENGINE SELECTION SHOULD FOLLOW NAR GUIDELINES INCLUDING FINAL CONSTRUCTION WEIGHT AND WEATHER CONDITIONS.

Motor C11-3 D12-5 E9-6

Delay 3 5 6

Approx Altitude 200-300 500-600 900-1000

2. r the descent rate, reef the Parachute To control

based on the selected engine and the flying conditions. Reefing a parachute restricts how far the Parachute opens and thus the decent rate of the rocket. To reef the Parachute tie the Shroud Lines together in a knot at the appropriate location.
Low Shroud knot Low Reef Chute Slow Decent

High Shroud knot

High Reef Chute Fast Decent

3. r Coil the Kevlar Shock Cord forward of the

Snap Swivel Parachute attachment into the Main Body Tube as shown.

Wind Shock Cord into Main Body Tube

4. r Parachute with talcum powder. Powder the Softly fold the Parachute and loosely wrap the Shroud Lines around it length wise not cross-wise (See illustration below). Length wise wrapping produces a springing action helping to deploy the Parachute upon ejection. Stuff the Parachute into the Heat Shield and close Heat Shield around it, like a burrito.

Powder

Fold

Wrap

Stuff

Close

Ta Po lcum wd er

Incorrect: Cross-Wise wrapping of shroud lines

Correct: Length-Wise wrapping of shroud lines Place Nose Cone onto Tube

5. rHeat Shield/Parachute into the Main Slide the

Body Tube. Coil the remaining Shroud Lines and Shock Cord on top of the Heat Shield/Parachute. Place the Main Nose Cone onto the top of the Main Body Tube making sure not to accidentally capture a Shroud Line or the Shock Cord.

Stuff Heat Shield & Parachute into Tube

Install Igniter

6. r rocket engine by installing an igniter Prepare a

per manufacturer's igniter installation instructions (the illustration shows a typical Estes style of igniter).

Install plug or wadding to hold igniter

Bend over leads

21

Engine

Engine

Engine

7. r using a D size engine first install a DIf you are Engine Spacer (Refer to page 15 for instructions on how to make one) by slipping it past the Engine Hook. Lift hook as needed to slide the spacer into the Engine Mount Tube. 8. r Install engine into rocket by slipping it past the
Engine Hook. Lift hook as needed to slide the engine completely into the Engine Mount Tube.
Optionally install D-Engine Spacer Lift away Engine Hook Lift away Engine Hook Slide Engine into place Installed Engine

Your XP-RAPTOR is now ready to launch!!!

Launching
Prior to launch read the entire National Association of Rocketry Safety Code (NAR) on page 20. Follow the code and "remember only you can prevent safety hazards". WARNING - BEFORE PLACING YOUR XP-RAPTOR ON YOUR LAUNCH PAD MAKE SURE ALL SAFETY DEVICES AND INTERLOCKS (I.E., IGNITION SYSTEM) ARE IN PLACE For more information about launching model rockets please visit the NAR website - www.nar.org. We highly recommend joining the NAR to receive updates and learn more about the exciting hobby of model rocketry.

3/16 Heavy Duty Launch Rod

6-12V Battery

Ignition System w/key safety lock

Ignition Wires

Launch Shield Launch Pad

Thank you!
The staff at QModeling would like to thank you for purchasing our XP-RAPTOR and hopes it will bring you hours of enjoyment. Please visit or web site at www.qmodeling.com and send us feedback on the kit and instructions. Also tell us what unique design aspects you would like to see in the next XP Model.

Specifications
Scale: 1:1 Height: 37.00 Main Body Tube Diameter: 1.637 Fin Span Diameter: 5.75 Weight: 4.5 oz Center of Gravity: 6.75 to 7.75 from Primary Fins Launch Lug Size: 3/16 Engines: C, D or E (Recommended C11-3, D12-5, E9-6) Average Altitudes: C11-3 250, 550 D12-3, 950 E9-6 Recovery System Parachute: 18 Octagon, Ripstop Nylon, Orange Shroud Lines: 24 Nylon Shock Cord: 9 Kevlar , 200 lb test, Shock Cord Attachment: Engine Mount Parachute Attachment: Snap Swivel #7, Black Oxide Heat Shield: 6 Nomex Shock Cord Bumper: Neoprene Rubber

22

Nose Cone Attachment: Molded Ring

Fin Template

P E SF FORWARD

P E

SF

C-RING ALIGNMENT SLOTS REAR

SF
Main Body Tube

T A
Fin Template Assembly

SF = Secondary Fins

T A

Cut out the above Fin Template

Fin Template Assembly

1. r Secondary Fin Assembly Template Cut out the
using a pair of scissors.
Roll Fin Template around tube

2. r C-Ring Alignment Slots on the Cut out the Template using a hobby knife and straight edge. 3. r Roll the Secondary Fin Assembly Template around the Upper Main Body Tube flush with one end and align the template edges. 4. r Secondary Fin Assembly Template Secure the
together by applying two pieces of tape as shown.
Secure Assembly with tape

23

Form a loop using a knot

C A UE L
G

Pull knot tight apply CA Ensure Retainer Ring is square and tack glue it here

CA
GLUE

Press glue side against inside wall of tube

Tie Knot Apply Glue

Insert Shock Cord

Carpenter or Wood
Fold Over Fold Over Completed Mount

ay Gr mer i Pr

P E
UPPER AND MAIN LOWER FIN CUT OUT

P E

SECONDARY LOWER FIN

UPPER AND MAIN LOWER FIN CUT OUT

SECONDARY LOWER FIN

UPPER AND MAIN LOWER FIN CUT OUT T A T A

SECONDARY LOWER FIN

W G OO LU D E

W G OO LU D E

W G OO LU D E

WOOD GLUE

14. r Apply

D OO W LU E G

1-2

Pull Shock Cord through tube

GL A UE