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THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

FOR THE HOME GARDEN
THIRD EDITION

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COPYRIGHT, COPYRIGHT, COPYRIGHT,

1914,

1915, 1916,

BY BY BY

J. B. J. B. J. B.

LIPPINCOTT COMPANY LIPPINCOTT COMPANY LIPPINCOTT COMPANY

PUBLISHED NOVEMBER, 1914 SECOND EDITION APRIL, 1915 THLRD EDITION JANUARY, 1916

PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS

PHILADELPHIA,
U. S. A.

THIS BOOK

18

AFFECTIONATELY

DEDICATED TO

DR.

ROBERT HUEY
FIBST INSPIRATION IN

WHO QAVE ME MY

BOSE GROWING

FOREWORD
The
concise

author believes that there

is

need for a short,

work on the

best outdoor roses for our

rules for

American climate, with practical working

their culture.
It is his

aim to supply

this

need in

three ways:
First,

by plain and

carefully thought out rules,

for

which have proven successful

actual practice.

many

years in

Second,

by a

list

of roses

made

only after the

entire catalogue

list

of varieties has

been systemat-

ically tried for years in this

country in testing beds.

Third,

by

illustrations in color

reproduced from

autochrome color photographs made from the varieties tested.

In addition, chapters devoted to general infor-

mation are added as of

further
into
detail

interest,

and books going

on the various subjects are

suggested.

The

rules

and arguments leading to

their use, as

herein set forth, have, as a base, rose growing in

the approximate climate of the Middle Atlantic

States,

where the extreme temperature

in winter

does not often go below zero and the

summer heat

FOREWORD
seldom exceeds 95 degrees.
changes,
all

This climate has rapid

life,

damaging to plant

and

it

will

readily be understood that, with the exception of

climates where there

is

a more intense cold or heat,

hold good.

the

list

and

rules, as hereafter given, will

Suggestions are

made

for

growing roses farther

north and farther south.

In England and parts of Europe
flourish

many

roses

which when

tried in

America

fail utterly.

We

have used the words "failure" and "weak

growers" to mean that our experiments in America

with these varieties have been unsuccessful.

Under

more favorable conditions such

well.

varieties

may do

This book does not pretend to be in any sense a

complete
scientific treatise

on the rose or the more

intricate details of its culture, such as hybridization,

budding, grafting,
rose grower

etc.,

which the average amateur

in standard works.

would not care to undertake and which

wishes to acknowledge, with great

are well

and amply covered

The author

appreciation, the help of Dr. Robert

Huey

in all

phases of his work.

Thanks are due

ing

to Messrs.

Philadelphia, for their help in importing

Henry A. Dreer, Inc., and securon roses

new

varieties,

and

also for giving data

tested

by them.

FOREWORD
The
aid of Messrs.

Williams,

Brown

&

Earle,

Philadelphia,

made possible

the taking of the colored

photographs.

The Japanese Multiflora which we recommend

certain varieties

for

was

first

brought to our notice by

the stock of George H. Peterson, of Fair Lawn,

New

Jersey.

G. C. T.,
September, 1914

Jr.

FOREWORD TO SECOND EDITION

The
this
first

edition has been exhausted, necessitating

second edition.
effort

Every
times;

has been

made
is

to keep abreast of the

new information

added, and a few minor

in the text.

changes and corrections

made
new

In spite of the European war

plants of most of the

we have secured
and have
keenly

foreign roses

over five hundred varieties in our testing beds.

The

reception accorded to our book

it is

is

appreciated and

our ambition to merit this by

tests.

continued thorough and careful

March, 1915

G. C. T.,

Jr.

FOREWORD TO THIRD EDITION

In bringing out
unnecessary to
this

Third Edition

it

has seemed

make any

radical changes.
still

The lists

and methods as given are

of

the best practice.

Some new information has been added where deemed moment, and the newer roses which have done
G. C. T.,
January, 1916.

best through 1915 have been described.

Jr.

CONTENTS
CHAPTEH
I.

PAOE

The Propagation op Roses The Best

Varieties, witii their Characteristics.
...

15

II.

33
67 72

III.

Some 1915 Developments

Climbers Location and Preparation

IV.
V.
VI.
VII.

86 97
106
115
131

Ordering
Planting

VIII.

Pruning
Cultivation

IX.

X.

Some General Information and Hints on Hybridization 145

Index
157

ILLUSTRATIONS
COLOR PLATES
Testing Home klllarnet brilliant Reversion of Mrs. Harkness

Beds Author's

PAGE
Frontispiece

26 28
42)

Sixteen Best Roses (Following Page Frau Karl Druschki Madame Jules Bouche

Antoine Revoire Ellen Willmott KlLLARNET Jonkheer J. L. Mock Madame Leon Pain Lady Alice Stanley

Robert Huey General MacArthur Laurent Carle Gruss an Teplitz Harry Kirk Duchess of Wellington Betty Mrs. A. R. Waddell
Christine Wright Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria Aviateur Bleriot and Gardenia Testing Beds on Dr. Huey's Place First Bloom of a Hybrid Tea Seedling

No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No.

2 3 4 5 6
7

8
9 10
11

12 13 14 15 16

74 76 82 88
151

Following Last Page of Volume, in Alphabetical Order

Alex. Hill Gray Alice Lemon

Annie Besant Beaute Inconstantb

11

ILLUSTRATIONS
British

Queen

Cardinal Carine COMTESSE FELICIE HoTOS COMTE8SE MaGQI STARZYNSKA (On same plate with Mrs. Hubert Taylor) Countess op Derby (On same plate with Gartendirector Hartrath) Charles J. Grahame Creme Simon
C.

W. Cowan
(On same plate with Elizabeth)

Dean Hole
Dorothy Page Roberts Dorothy Ratcliffe Duchess of Sutherland Duchess of Westminster Earl of Warwick Edward Mawley
(On same plate with Eugene Boullet) Elizabeth

Eugene Boullet Evelyn Dauntesey Farben Konigin Freiherr Von Marschall

Patzer Gartendirector Hartrath Geoffrey Henslow
F. R.

George

C.

Ward

(On same plate with Lady Battersea)

George Dickson Hermosa Hugo Roller

Joseph Hill Kaiser Wilhelm II (On same plate with Charles

J.

Grahame)

Lady Lady Lady Lady

Ashtown Barham
Battersea de Bathe
12

ILLUSTRATIONS
Lady Greenall
(On same plate with Comtesse
Felicie

Hoyos)

Lady Helen Vincent Lady Hillingdon Lady Katherinb Rose

(On same plate with Lady Helen Vincent) Lady Margaret Boscawen Lady Moyra Beauclerc Lady Pirrie Lyon

Mabel Drew Madame A. Tupinteb Madame Charles Lejeune Madame Edouard Herriot Madame Ldcien Picard
(On same plate with Creme Simon)

Madame Madame Madame Madame Madame

Melanie Sodpert Paul Rouchon Second Weber Vermorel Wagram, Comtesse de Tdrennb Mademoiselle Marie Mascurand Mademoiselle Simone Beadmez Mary, Countess op Ilchester (On same plate with Lady Battersea) Mary, Countess of Ilchester
Miss Alice de Rothschild Mrs. Arthur E. E. Coxhead Mrs. Charles Custis Harrison Mrs. Charles E. Allan Mrs. Hubert Taylor Mrs. James Craig Mrs. Joseph H. Welch Mrs. Leonard Petrie Mrs. Richard Draper Mrs. Wallace H. Rowe (On same plate with Madame Charles Lejeune) Mrs. Walter Easlea Natalie Bottner Odette Pedriolle
13

ILLUSTRATIONS
Ophelia Pharisaee President William Howard Taft Prince de Bulgarie Radiance

Senateur Mascurand Souv. du President Carnot

St.

Helena White Klllarnet W. R. Smith

HALFTONE PLATES
PAGE

Rose Carrara Ready for Planting Hybrid Tea and Manetti Foliage Seedlings Showing Varied Growths Hybrid Tea Rose, Not Pruned but Allowed to Develop Same Rose Properly Pruned Rose with Petals Removed, Showing Stamens and Anthers Same Rose with Most op Stamens and Anthers Removed Seed Pod on a Hybrid Tea Rose which has been Hybridized
.

18

21 29 122 122
152 152

154

THE PRACTICAL BOOK OF OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

I

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

ESTABLISHED VARIETIES
In
this chapter it is

aimed to give the reader such

general information as will enable

him

to compre-

hend the main

rose.

principles of the propagation of the

In order that he

may

fairly

understand the
of the

following chapters,

and the general scheme and the ordering

be read carefully.

selection of varieties
this chapter should

of the same,
It is not our

intention, as explained in the introduction, to puzzle

the

home

rose grower with all the scientific details

of each phase of rose culture;

but

it is

believed that

the following paragraphs will give a good working

idea of the methods employed.

For those who

may

care to follow out such matters to their utmost

conclusion the names of exhaustive works are given.

Established roses are propagated mainly by the

following methods
tings,
:

seeds, layering

and suckers

cut-

budding and grafting, the

last three

being the

principal methods.
15

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

SEEDS
In order to secure established varieties seeds are
used only in special cases, because they can only
relied upon to reproduce when they are taken from

be

plants of their

own kind
Seeds

original species.

of hybrids are useless for this end, as their seedlings

do not conform to the parent stock.

In other words,

hybrids do not come true from seeds, and their

seeds are only useful for

new

varieties.

"Experi-

ments with Plants," by Osterhout, goes further

into

the scientific
seen.

treatment of seeds than any

book we have

LAYERING

Many
that
is,

plants and

some

roses increase

by

layering,

throwing out a branch which becomes rooted

and

in turn sends out its branches to root themselves of increase.

and carry out nature's work

is

Layering

not practised to any great extent, as

it is

a longer

process than the others and requires not only

more

time to accomplish

results,

but also more space

either in greenhouse or nursery.

Layering

is

now only used

for

some

varieties

which do not root well from cuttings.

cites Persian
It is

Ellwanger

Yellow as one of these.

is

a simple and easy operation, and

accom-

plished

by bending down a

rose cane of a growing

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

plant, scientifically notching it with a knife (technically

known

as tongueing),

and then putting the

Roots are

tongued portion into prepared ground, after which

it is

held in place by various methods.

formed at the break and eventually the part so

treated

may

be detached from the original plant,

itself

and becomes

a complete plant.

Pemberton

in

"Roses

Their

History, Develop-

ment and

Cultivation," gives very clear and explicit

instructions

on layering.

SUCKERS
Pemberton's description of suckers we quote as
follows

"Many

of the species, such as

Rugosa, Alpina,

Spinosissima and Ltjcida, together with Provence

and Damask hybrids,

suckers, springing

etc.,

increase

by throwing out

up at some

distance from the

parent plant, and forming roots at the place where

they bend upwards.

These rooted suckers, after

being separated from the plant, should be pruned

back to a foot or even

ordinary plants."

less,

and then treated as

CUTTINGS
Cuttings are
slips

taken from plants which, when

placed in sand and

soil,

grow roots

of their

own and

become

in turn rose plants, giving the

same bloom

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

as the plants from which they were cut.

Very often
is

they are given greenhouse care and while this

not necessary,
results.
it

obtains, perhaps, surer

and better

In experimental work, cuttings have been

carried so far that they

fully
is

have been made success-

even from rose leaves, although this method

of

no practical

use.

No

doubt

many

persons

who have
cuttings

followed us to this point understand

in roses

and have employed them not only

but in other plants, such as carnations and geraniums, which are propagated
cuttings.

almost entirely by

In their proper place (the greenhouse) cuttings

as used in rose culture

may

be relied upon, but

beyond

this sphere their use is

open to debate,

as,

in the opinion of nearly all the best authorities,

they

are not as satisfactory as budding.

for their failure is that

many

of our
of

are

weak growers and cannot

fight for existence,

The main reason new varieties their own accord

most

win the

even under favorable

conditions.

As conditions
on
its

in our climate are

uncertain only the exceptionally hardy plant succeeds of

itself

own

roots.

Cuttings are useful, however, when expense must

be considered with certain of these hardy

It

varieties.

would be easy

for

any one to make cuttings

of his

own, and this could be successfully done with the

Fig.

ROSE CUTTING READY FOR PLANTING

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

hardier kinds of roses, thereby saving the expense
of purchasing.
If roses are

purchased,
plants,

we

strongly
slight

recommend buying budded

as the

extra outlay would be fully justified.

While there are many good

articles

on cuttings,
it

we

consider that Pemberton's

is

the best, as

treats

of cuttings

under glass and also cuttings

in the open.

BUDDING
In budding roses a strong stock
variety selected
is is

secured and the

budded upon this

of
it.

stock, eventually

becoming a part
budding
is

The
off

actual operation of

merely to cut
it is

the dormant

bud from

the variety which

cutting a
slit

desired to perpetuate and,

in the

bark of the stock, to introduce

the

bud
it

into the same.

When

the bud so transall

planted becomes somewhat established,

growth

above

is

removed and the whole

is

vitality of
it

proved stock

thrown into the bud, giving

the

nourishment which a tried constitution insures.

In England the two stocks most
are

commonly used

Manetti and Briar.

is

In the case of roses with

a preponderance of Hybrid Perpetual blood the

Manetti stock
ing

generally used; for those contain-

much Tea blood

few growers in

the Briar has been found the

better stock.

this

country are trying Japanese

19

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Multiflora,

and with some

varieties secure stronger

and better stock than that grown from the

stocks as generally used.
is

ordinary-

Sometimes Rugosa stock

Molly Sharman

used for budding and a very few roses do quite

it,

well on

the most noted of which

is

Crawford.

Undoubtedly the

ideal stock for all roses has not

yet been discovered, and a great advance should be

made

in this

most important section

be

of rose culture.

In order to secure a perfect rose

different stocks should
tried.

list,

budding on
only are

If cuttings

employed, very
for

many

roses will not succeed as well

outdoor culture.
roses.
First,

There are two objections to budded

they occasionally break
off at

the bud, but this has

so seldom occurred with us in actual practice that

it is

not worth consideration.

is

The second and main own below

the bud,

reason

that the stocks upon which the roses are

of their

budded throw up shoots

which,
roots
if

left,

take the entire nourishment of the

it

and check the budded growth by crowding

its light

out and taking

and sunshine.

These shoots from below the bud

easily detected

may

be very

upon

their appearance, because they

come up from the ground outside the plant and

as they do, seven

also

because of their different habit of growth, containing,

and sometimes nine leaves on each

HYHKII) TEA
At
left,

AM) MANETTI WLIAGE

on each
r

ordinary Hybrid Tea foliage showing five leave:

later,l.

On
al*

laterals.

Note

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

lateral, instead of three

and

five as in

most budded
is

varieties.

(Note

illustration.)

The

foliage

of

much
plant

lighter

shade of green than the shoots from

the bud
is

itself

and

its

point of junction with the

It
is

below the bud.

very easily removed

it

by

carefully digging
its

up the ground, cutting

off

with a knife at

union with the plant below the

In

bud, and rubbing some earth over the cut.

addition, this

main reason
plants,

is

not a valid objection,

because
of the

it

only happens with about one per cent,

budded

and can even then be

easily

detected.

To keep this percentage down, roses must be

soil,

planted with the bud two to three inches below the surface of the
as hereafter advocated.
If

planted

less

deeply they will throw a greater number of suckers.

Fewer suckers develop from Multiflora than from

Briar or

Manet ti.

Very often cuttings have only greenhouse growth

when shipped. At best they are generally propagated under glass and have not had much outdoor growth, whereas budded plants are budded in the summer
out-of-doors,

and have even as yearlings a whole

season's outside growth before being sold.

We

have tested the own root plants, as cuttings

are called,

and

in

one particular instance made the

following experiment which decided us once

all

and

for

as to the merits of the two methods.

21

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

One bed was made, and over fifty roses on their own roots and fifty budded roses were planted in it
side

by

side, all of old

and established

varieties, and,

in the case of the

own

root plants, purchased from a

grower
first

who advocates their use. At the end of the summer the difference was plainly apparent
in favor of the

and was strongly

budded

plants.

At the end

of

two years there was no possible doubt

as to the result; the

budded plants were

far superior.
this

Experiments with other roses have endorsed

result,

and budded roses are recommended

for all

outdoor work for the majority of roses contained in

our main

list,

whether Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Per-

petuals, or Teas.

In the case of climbers and some few very strong

growers no doubt the

own

root roses would give

good

results,

but as a working rule they cannot be

In our garden are budded roses

recommended.
from our

originally planted in the

first

autumn

of 1900

and moved

home
still

to our present place in 1907.

These plants are

original lot less

strong and healthy and of the

than two per cent, have died in over

thirteen years.

We know
certainly

of

one case where budded roses planted

still

over thirty years ago are

flourishing,

and

this

shows that their length

of life

is all

that

can be expected.

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

In our testing of new roses the great majority has
been budded plants and the percentage of deaths has
naturally been greater in these
established kinds.

new varieties than

in

We have annually imported from

new varieties, and
all

three hundred to a thousand roses of

yet twenty plants a year would cover

the deaths
Ordinarily,

even of these new and untried kinds.

from one to two per cent, a year would more than

cover the deaths of varieties marked " A " and
in our

"B"

main

list,

under the column of "hardiness."

In other branches of horticulture budding and

grafting have been tried with the greatest success;
for example, apples, pears

and peaches give very

seem that a
tried

much
stock

better results for the reason that the kind of

is

stock desired
is

supplied.

It does

better than a different stock with each plant,

viz., its

own.
will

Undoubtedly better stocks

certain roses which

be discovered for

do not do well on the regular

it
is

stocks; but surely

inferior roses

going backward to grow

roots

on

their

own

and be

satisfied

with them, rather than by experimenting to ascertain the best stocks.

While

all

the better

known

rose books deal quite

thoroughly with descriptions of budding, the "Nursery Book,"

by

L.

H. Bailey, should
23

certainly be

read by any one contemplating such work.

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

For many strong growing plants and
budding
not necessary.
trees,

where

perfect results are obtained on the stock of the plant

itself,
is

With strong grow-

ing roses amateurs can take cuttings easily and increase their

number

of plants.

GRAFTING
Grafting
is

a modification

of budding,

and

is

process which

may

give as good a result in the end

first

with some outdoor roses; but for the

year,

after planting outside, the plant does not

much

progress,

and our death-rate

make as has been much

budded
plants.

greater with grafted stock than with

Unfortunately grafts do not take very well on the

Briar, therefore grafters use the

Manetti which, as

explained above,

is

not the best stock for Teas and

Hybrid Teas.
Grafting
which,
if

is

mostly used to increase new varieties

budded, would necessarily have to be

operated upon in the late summer, the bud not

developing until the following spring; whereas, in
grafting, a part of the plant desired to be propagated
is

grafted

upon the stock

is

selected

and growth at

once begins; this

a very much quicker operation,

but not so sure of success as budding for outdoor

roses.

Grafting requires great

skill

and

is

used to obtain

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

quick results.
Seedlings
to

be tested are often

grafted and a verdict quickly arrived at.

There are
but the
is

numerous methods employed

principle
spliced
is

in grafting,

the same in

all;

the variety required

on the stock and, as

in budding, the strength

of the stock all goes into the variety desired.

Graft-

ing roses

is

usually done under glass and requires

expert handling, both during the actual operation

and

thereafter.
for cuttings

The books mentioned

and budding

give the best articles on grafting, in addition to

which "Parsons on the Rose" contains good, clear

and

explicit information

on

all

these subjects.

NEW
New
by
sports

VARIETIES
two ways:

varieties of roses are developed in

and

seedlings.

SPORTS
Sports are purely a matter of chance, and occur

when any given

variety shows a

bloom or habit

of

growth different from the accepted plant.

occurs propagation of the
or grafting establishes the

When this

wood by cuttings, budding new variety.

two following are

As
well

illustrations of sports, the

known and

are changes from the parent stock

in the color of the

bloom

itself:
25

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

La
France, color silver rose, sported with Paul

&

Sons, near London, in 1888,

of Albany, called

and gave the Duchess

rich,

dark La France, a

deep pink.
is

This was propagated and Duchess of Albany

a well-established variety.

now

Camoens, pale rose color with the base

the

of the

petals yellow, sported with Boytard, in 1907,

and

new rose was called Ecarlate, a With these two new varieties the
it

brilliant scarlet.

habit of growth

of the plants

remained practically the same as their

parent plants;

was only

in the color of the rose

itself.

that the change manifested

In the past few years the old

sported a

rose, Killarney,

has

number

of

times,

giving

among

others

Killarney Brilliant, a rose of a deeper shade of pink;

WLite Killarney, a
beautiful white;

rose, as the

name

implies, of a

and Double Killarney, a rose

of

greater substance in petallage than the parent stock

from which it sprang. These new roses will, no doubt,

take their places in the
list if

they do as well as the

is

old established Killarney, which there

to believe they will do.

every reason

Before so

many

hybrids were cultivated,

when

roses were not

and grown to as great an extent as

less frequent.

now, sports were naturally

varieties

Of course

which are

crosses,

such as the hybrids of

likely to give different

today, are very

much more

KILLARNEY BRILLIANT
Hybrid Tea
Alex. Dickson

and Sons, 1914.

See List.

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

growth or different bloom than the old
which were not so
species.
varieties,

far

removed from the

original

Changes

in

habit of growth occur as well as

changes in bloom, and a great

many

of the

Hybrid

Teas and some Polyanthas have produced sports

which have much more
of a climbing habit

than the

dwarf bush from which such new varieties originated.

The bloom
is

in

form and color

is

practically identical

with the parent stock, although

usually shorter and
its

its

period of flowering

bloom

less profuse.

There

is

one very interesting illustration of a rose

which sported, the new growth of which when propagated reverted to the original form of
stock.
its

parent

Heinrich Schultheis,

a Hybrid Perpetual

rose of deep, rosy pink, sported with Paul

of

&

Sons,

London, and produced Paul's Early Blush, a

silvery

light

pink.

Again

it

sported with Alex.

Dickson

&

Sons, in Ireland,

and produced another

silvery pink,

known

as Mrs. Harkness.

Both

of

these

new

roses were perpetuated

and became quite

popular before the Hybrid Teas came into general

notice.

In the year 1913 Dr. Robert Huey, of

still

Philadelphia,

had plants
It

of Paul's Early Blush

speci-

and Mrs. Harkness.

was remarkable that

mens

of both these plants partially reverted to the

old form of Heinrich Schultheis, throwing

27

up shoots

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

with rose-colored blooms.
agated,
If these

had been prop-

some

slight difference

between them and

Heinrich Schultheis might have been shown, but as

the color and form of these roses were practically
the

same as specimens

of Heinrich Schultheis

growing
tried.

in the

same garden, the experiment was not

which advantage
is

Very often sports occur which are not noticed

and

of

not taken.

Recently,

while talking to the owner of a rose garden

we were

informed that one of her Killarney bushes had

thrown out a red

rose.

There

is

a possibility that
misplaced,

a plant might in some

way have been

but the grower in question was quite sure that the

red rose was a Killarney and that on one side
it

gave a flower of different

color.

We told her to watch

the plant very carefully the coming spring, as she

might have the pleasant experience of being the

introducer of a

new

variety.
this that sports
all

We

do not wish to imply from

are of frequent occurrence, for in

the years
all

we

have grown

roses,

and notwithstanding

the care

we have

lavished

upon them, we have never had a

sport manifest

itself.

SEEDLINGS
Seedlings, as the

name

implies,

come from

seeds

hybridized either by chance or by man's handiwork.

REVERSION OF MRS. HARKNESS

Note deep rose-colored blooms of Heinrich Sehultheis on right and Silver Pink of Mrs. Harkness on left. Prior to 1913 this plant gave nothing but the silver pink blooms of Mrs. Harkness.

Fio. 3

SEEDLIMiS SHOWING VARIED GROWTHS

the left-hand side seedling of a Hybrid Tea. On the right-hand si Wichuraiana. Both these plants are of the same age and have received ident different habit of growth even at this early stage in the life of the plants

On

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

Nearly
all

the older rose growers gathered their heps

containing the seeds in the

autumn

of each year

and planted great numbers

great

of these in nursery rows,

hoping to secure new varieties; in this manner a

many

of the

Hybrid Perpetuals were discovered

However, of
late years the

and introduced.

com-

mercial rose growers of Europe have hybridized

different varieties of roses,

and by

careful selection

and breeding
their

for several generations are securing

new

varieties.
is

In Europe this work

large scale.

maintained on a very
of seedlings

Thousands upon thousands

are raised each year, and only a very small percent-

age are of any practical use. a few

In this country only

men have achieved any great success in introducing new varieties John Cook, of Baltimore, Maryland; E. G. Hill, of Richmond, Indiana; M. H. Walsh, of Woods Hole, Massachusetts; Dr. Van Fleet and W. A. Manda, of New Jersey. Cook
introduced

My

Maryland and Radiance, and

Hill

has given us quite a number of good roses, the best

perhaps for outdoor culture being General MacArthur, which

is

one of the

finest all-round

outdoor

red roses grown in America today.

Walsh,

Manda

and Van Fleet have been

developing

particularly successful in

new Hybrid Wichuraiana

Walsh's most

notable being Excelsa, Hiawatha, Sweetheart and

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Evangeline,
all

excellent additions

and ranking with

the best Wichuraiana climbers.

Father George Schoener, of Portland, Oregon,

doing some very fine work, not only in
of roses, but also in

is

new

varieties

new

stocks for budding.

In

addition,

he

is

making

crosses

between different
His seedlings won
It

members
a
is

of the Rosaceae genus.

silver

medal at Portland

in the fall of 1915. his novelties will

hoped that ere long some of

be

on the market.

Following will be found a tabulated record of the

breeding of the main varieties in which the Hybrid
Perpetuals and Teas figure.
It

has not been ar-

ranged at

all in

conformity with the usual botanical

analyses of species and sub-species, but the information

given has been taken from such books as

Pemberton's and placed together so that the history

of the breeding of the different varieties

may

be

seen at a glance.

There are several authorities

that the exact breeding of the
is

who have noted

Hybrid Perpetuals

to

some extent problematical.

Hybrid Perpetuals' im-

The

roses

named

as the

mediate ancestors are generally accepted as such,

but some few other varieties were used in the gradual

evolution of this class from the
first

Hybrid Per-

petual until the

list

was completed.

At the present

time there are fewer Hybrid Perpetuals bred, as the

Hybrid Teas have

entirely superseded them.

THE PROPAGATION OF ROSES

Yellow ^Luteae

80me\ ( Damai

/Damask
Perpetual 1812

Pernetiana Pernet-Ducher, 1900

b r i d / 1 Hybrid .Parpetuals/ V China \Ps

tionsupposedly

Hybrid Perpetual.
Laffay, 1830.

Bourbon Perpetual

Held sway 1890

between China and Red Four Seasons, 18171822

till

\Hybrid Chii

1600

X
I

China

/Tea Indica Odorata

Introduced from China, 1810-1824.
First

improved

in

France where the climbing teas were bred

Later Noisettes.

! China Common

Blush

X
Musk Rose
(Rosa Moschata)
31

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

The work
of hybridization
is

a most interesting
scientific scale it is

one, but unless carried out

on a

almost entirely a matter of chance whether or not

anything of value

may

be secured.

No

doubt any

one cultivating roses to a large extent would greatly

enjoy trying to introduce a new variety of his
breeding.

own

To

hj-bridize roses properly

it is

one must have a

greenhouse and

astonishing what results

may

be obtained in a very small one.

Books on

this subject

which we have found to

be most interesting and practical are:

"Plant Breeding," L. H. Bailey.

"Plant Breeding, Experiments of Nillson and

Burbank,"

De

Tries.

"Plant Life and Evolution," Campbell. "New Creations in Plant Life," Harwood.

"Fundamentals
In Chapter

of Plant Breeding," Coulter.

will

IX

be found a few hints on

hybridization taken from our

own

experiments.

n
THE BEST VARIETIES WITH THEIR
CHARACTERISTICS
The
rose has been the

Queen

of

Beauty among

flowers as far back as records go.

Down

the ages
India,
rest of

she has held

her position unchallenged.

Persia, China, Japan, Greece, Italy

and the

Europe

all
is

pay her homage

a native of
all

in

verse and story.

The

rose

these countries,

and those

of the twentieth century are the gradual evolution

from the original types to our almost perfect flower.

At

first this

evolution was slow and greatly due to

chance.

Hybridization was neither understood nor

practised.

New roses came from seed, or from some new variety thrown out by an old stock and
Nature's friend, the bee,
did most of the crossing of varieties, but such progress did not suit rose growers, and from the gambling

noticed and propagated.

methods
increased

of chance seeds systematic hybridization

of the day.

became the order

At once the

rose

list

by

leaps

and bounds,

for the field

was

of

extreme fascination and boundless

possibilities.

Without going into the history

steps,
it
is

of all the various

sufficient to

say that about 1825 the

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Hybrid Perpetual began to take
rose world.
first

place in the

Perfectly hardy, of fine growth, having

its

a longer period of bloom than

equal growth and beauty,
popular,
it

predecessors of

became more and more

about 1890.
Its dis-

and held
its

its

sway

until

advantage was

short period of bloom compared

with Teas and Chinas which, while very

smaller in growth, were

much

more constant bloomers and,

Hybrid Perpetuals

as a general rule, superior to the

in

perfume and

foliage.

Tea
from

roses

had

existed in

England and France

century,

early in

the

nineteenth

and yet
China,

after the cross of the

Damask and Hybrid

first

which gave the rose world the

petual,
it

Hybrid Per-

was not

until 1867 that the first cross of

merit between the Teas and the Hybrid Perpetuals

made
tained

its

appearance.
it

At once the
desired,

rose world ob-

what

had so long

combining in a

seedling the best of both parents, a rose as hardy, or

nearly as hardy as the Hybrid Perpetual

that bloomed practically as often as the

rose

Tea and
rose, the

that had fine foliage and perfume.

first

This

of the great

army

of

Hybrid Teas which was to

fils,

follow,
its

was La France, introduced by Guillot

being

parents

Madame

Bravy.

Madame Victor Verdier and Madame Victor Verdier was a

in 1863,

Hybrid Perpetual, introduced by E. Verdier

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

and
of

Madame Bravy was

in 1848.

a Tea raised by Guillot,

Pont Cherin,

The next Hybrid Tea

the test of time

that appeared and stood

raised

was Reine Marie Henriette,

from

by Levet,

in 1878,

Madame

Berard

(of Gloire
first

de Dijon) and General Jacqueminot; the

of

Tea

blood,

and the second a Hybrid Perpetual.

in English catalogues of

This rose

is listed

today in

the climbing section as a Hybrid Tea, although

still

considered by some as a Tea, and so listed in

the

Dutch Rozennaamlijst

of 1909.

After the introduction of these two roses,

La

France and Reine Marie Henriette, the work went

on

still

further

and

cross

breedings

of

hybrids

obtained by hybridization soon began to swell the

list

of

new

roses.

Roses so obtained are known as pedigree roses

and very seldom

it

is

their breeding given, although

seems an open secret that three generations are

often required before a

new

rose of merit

is

secured.

The
and
ods

breeders and introducers of

new

roses naturally

guard their breeding secrets with the greatest care,

little
is

or

no information as to
This secrecy

their special
is

meth-

obtainable.
it

really eminently
effort, care,

proper, as

has taken years of patient

to bring out

and great expense

new

varieties.

It is

the breeders' stock in trade; they are entitled to

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

hold the information they have acquired, and due
credit should be given

them

for the wonderful strides

list.

they have

made towards
is

the perfect rose

therefore,

While

it

impossible,

to

give

the

breeding of the various pedigree roses, nevertheless

a few examples of roses discovered by hybridization

and cross breeding

interest.

of one generation

may
it is

be of

In looking over the obtainable data

at once

noted that certain roses seem to stand out as having

been the most successful parents, and of these

Caroline Testout ranks

among

the

first;

bred with

Souv. deM. Verdier, Aimee Cochet was obtained;

with Merveille de Lyon, Frau Karl Druschki was

obtained; with Fisher Holmes, George Laing Paul

was obtained; with Viscountess Folkstone, Konigin

Carola was obtained; with Bridesmaid, La Detroit

was obtained; with Ferdinand Jamin, Madame Edmee Metz was obtained.
In addition to this Caroline Testout has produced
quite a

number

of sports,

most noted

of

which are

Admiral Dewey and Mrs. Longworth.

Another rose which stands out prominently

is

Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, a pedigree rose introduced in 1882, and one of the parents of Caroline Testout.
In 1894 this rose with Dr. Grill produced Antoine
Revoire, a rose that
is

holding

its

own among

the

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

newer Hybrid Teas
best rose of
its

of today,

and

is still

by

far the

shade in this country.

Crossed with

La France,
Mrs.

in 1894,

Lady Mary Fitzwilliam gave

still

W.

J.

Grant

(syn. Belle Siebrecht), a rose

popular; Kaiserin Augusta Victoria resulted

when

she was crossed with Coquette de Lyon.

Kaiserin

Augusta Victoria

is

unique in color and must be

included in any large collection.

Ellwanger's chapter on "Seed Parents of Leading

Roses," in his book

"The Rose,"

gives

some very

interesting data on this subject.

About
out of

1890, owing to its longer period of bloom,

the Hybrid
first

Tea had pushed the Hybrid Perpetual

place in popularity, and from that time
class.

on has held sway as the premier

first

While at

much was
is

to be desired in

some

of the

Hybrid

Teas, gradually they have become improved, until

today there

no question about

their being the

best outdoor garden variety; yet, in so deciding on

them

as the

most useful

class,

many must be

dis-

carded as worthless in the climate of the Middle

Atlantic States.
Perpetuals,
list

and

also others,

The best of the Teas and the Hybrid must be included in a

which purports to include the best outdoor

roses.

In addition to the hardy growth and long period

of

bloom common to the best

of the

Hybrid Teas,

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

many
erect
of

them have the long double bud on the

in roses,

stiff

stem so much desired

and the best

varieties

open slowly and keep well after being cut;

therefore in the

main

list

which follows we have

put the best of the Hybrid Teas and have also

included other roses which
standard.

come up

to a certain

In addition to these there are a great

for large gardens should not

many which
looked,

be over-

some

of

them among the Perpetuals and

also

Teas, and

we have
list.

added these

varieties to

our main

Unfortunately,

it

is

almost impossible to find

many

roses absolutely perfect for our climate.

The

winters are

more severe and the summers hotter

have been accustomed, so that
flourish in

than the conditions to which imported roses and

their forbears

many

of the roses

which

Europe are worthless

Hybrid Perpetuals,
in

with

us.

The main
as dwarfs

classes include the

Hybrid Teas and Teas, and are grown

two ways,
differ

and as standards.

Standards

from

dwarfs or bushes (ordinary form), in that they are

budded or grafted on strong

briar
feet

and other stocks

from the ground.
easily

from two and one-half to four

They

are most attractive

and some are more

all of

reached than the dwarfs, as the blooms grow about

the level of the eye, while

them

are adapted

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

to formal gardens

and landscape work.

However,

we cannot recommend them

protection
is

unless absolute winter

given,

and

this is best

accomplished
it

by-

placing boards around the plant, encasing

from
with

the ground to above the

earth.

bud and

filling

in

In the case of some of the climbers, which are

used as standards, an attractive

effect is

produced

by allowing the trailing shoots grow downwards, more or less

willow
tree,

of such plants to
like

the weeping

and these are

called

weeping standards,

otherwise they are the same as the regular standard.

In the case of some of the Teas, which are grown

very close to the ground in this way, they can be

moi'e thoroughly protected in cold winters than they

could be

if

grown as the usual standard.

Teas are especially
prolific

It

is

be-

lieved that
in this

when grown

manner.

One

well

known

writer states that

he has seen such a Tea with seventy-five blooms on

it

at one time.

Standards require very

dwarfs, and this
is

another reason
If

planted so extensively.

much more room than why they are not used we would strongly

recommend for them the roses contained in our main list. Dwarfs are budded close to the root of the stock and the bud is planted below the ground level, hence they are hardier and much more easily

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

handled in winter than standards.
In our experito be

ments with standards we have found them

most uncertain, sometimes they
years and again fully
of ten per cent,
fifty

last

for

several

per cent. die.

An

average

would be a conservative estimate

for winter loss, unless

most thorough winter pro-

tection

was

given.

Every year the commercial rose growers in England

and the Continent bring out

their

new

varieties;

before a satisfactory verdict can be given as to their

adaptability to this country they must be tried for

at least

two
year

years.

In

many

cases

new

varieties

are shipped as such small grafted plants that for

the

first

it is

almost impossible to test them

later larger plants

properly,
tried

and a year

must be
risk

again.

Very probably these small plants

would do well abroad, but here they run the

of being passed

upon as worthless when many may

be

first-class varieties.

Owing

to the difference in our climate, even the

color of imported roses

may vary somewhat from

The average
owing to
is

the European catalogued description.

rose
is

generally

somewhat

lighter in color,

our extreme heat in summer.

tion which proves this rule.
in the

Killarney

an excep-

This rose

is

catalogued

European

lists

as "Flesh-shaded white, sufit is

fused pale pink"; in this country

solid light

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

pink, the shade depending

on the

sunlight, being

deeper in bright, hot weather.

In the early spring

and
is

in the

autumn

the color of most roses with us

darker than in the summer, some varieties that

usually have a slight yellow tint becoming almost

pink under frosty nights and

for the first reason given
it is

warm

days.

Mainly

a lottery for the aver-

age rose grower to order new varieties; the greater

part will prove utter disappointments, a waste of

money, space, time and

description

care,

and the catalogued

must be more than discounted. This book should guide the American purchaser
which
will give
list

to order those roses

results.

him the

best

To

secure a perfect

of such roses,

we

have carefully tested every variety found

best of European catalogues,

in the

and
to

in

our

list

at the

end

of this chapter there has

been included every

variety which has

come up

a certain standard.

Those which we have excluded have not proved

successful after a test in

which

all

had the same

chance.

SIXTEEN BEST ALL-ROUND ROSES

In order to be of the greatest practical aid to the

home

rose grower

we have made a

selection of the
tests to

sixteen roses which

have proved by our

be

the best adapted in beauty and usefulness to outdoor

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

growing.

A
is

color-plate with

an accompanying

full

description

given of each of these roses.

This selection includes one white, one white with

center shaded primrose or lightest blush,
colored

two

flesh-

one

shaded peach to

lilac

and the other

shaded

shell pink.

Four pinks: one

light pink,

one dark to imperial

pink, one flesh to light salmon pink,

and one

silver

pink to dark salmon

sometimes coral pink.

crimson
cerise, bright

Four shades
son, brilliant

of red:

crim-

carmine and scarlet crimson.

of yellow
:

Four shades

light yellow, yellow-orange,

coppery rose and reddish bronze.

In this following selection of sixteen roses

we have
Their

included the best rose of each main shade.

qualities

have been noted

in the description
is

which

accompanies them; there

no doubt, from our

absolute satisfaction.

experiments, that these are the best outdoor roses

for our climate

and

will give

We have given

this list

and
list

their descriptions before

coming to the general

There are roses
in

because

we

particularly

wish to emphasize their value.

the main
list

under No. 2

heading which are better than some in the above

selection,

but they are of different shades.

The

best rose of each

this sixteen.

main

color

is

the one specified in

48

1.

WHITE
Fratj Karl Druschki. (MeRVEILLE DE PETUAL.

LtON

Hybrid PERLambert; 1900. X CAROLINE TESTOUT)

A very strong growing rose, foliage light solid green; long, erect stem; long, pointed bud, opening into a perfect flower of great substance and of great lasting quality (color, white sometimes palest pink blush at center); in good quantity in June, shy in summer, moderately in autumn. Farther north it naturally comes into

later and, as the season of bloom is shorter, blooms longer one period only. Farther south blooms earlier and later, with Plant 30 inches center to center. Prune to 6 less summer bloom.

bloom
for

eyes (buds).

2.

WHITECENTER SHADED PRIMROSE OR LIGHTEST BLUSHVARIES

Madame Jules
Botjche.

Croibier

&

Fils; 1911.

Hybrid

Tea Of medium

of wonderful substance

good to very good foliage, into a medium-sized flower and great lasting qualities. A splendid bloomer in spring, good in summer and remarkably good in fall. The best new rose since Duchess of Wellington and by all means
to large growth, very hardy;

long, erect stem; long

bud which develops

the best white to blush rose.

Plant 18 inches center to center.

Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

MADAME

Croibier

JULES BOUCHE Hybrid & Fils inn

Tea

3.

FLESH TO CREAMYELLOW PEACH CENTER, SOMETIMES WITH LILAC SHADING

Antoine Revoibe. Pernet-Ducher; (Dr. Grill X Lady Fitzwilliam)
1896.

Hybrid Tea.

Of medium growth, very hardy;

foliage blue-green leathery, long

erect stem; beautiful bud, opening into

medium

to large

bloom

of

gardenia form, fine substance, many petals, lasts very well after cutting. Blooms well in June, quite well in summer, quite well in

autumn.
its

rose which has stood as the best of this shade since

production.

Plant 15 inches center to center.

Prune

to 4 eyes

(buds).

4.

SILVER FLESH TO SHELL PINK

Ellen Willmott.
Bernaix;
1898.

Hybrid Tea

Medium
size;

to strong growth, very hardy; splendid leathery green

a good erect stem, opening into a bloom of medium very fine bloomer in spring, good to very good in summer and autumn; this rose is a stronger grower and has a better stem than Souv. du President Carnot although not quite as beautiful in bud form, but is placed first on account of its reliability as a summer and autumn bloomer and its better growth and foliage. Plant 18 inches center to center. Prune to 4 eyes (buds).
foliage; quite

5.

LIGHT PINK
Killarney.

Dickson

& Sons;

1898.

Hybrid Tea

mildew in wet seasons towards autumn, but Killarney has the red tea foliage, especially in young growth, which is so beautiful in many teas;
to large growth, very hardy; foliage liable to
long, fairly erect stem, beautiful pointed bud, not of great petallage

Medium

but very beautiful, although not a very long keeper; a wonderful Plant 18 inches center to center. bloomer from frost to frost. Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

6.

IMPERIAL PINK
Jonkheer
J.

L.

Mock.

Leenders; 1909.

Hybrid Tea

Very large growth and very hardy; only fair foliage, extremely long stems; long bud and large bloom of great substance; not a proline but, considering the length of stems, a fine bloomer from frost to frost and a long keeper. Absolutely necessary to secure in twoyear-old plants; yearlings do not appear to transplant with any success. Plant 20 inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

7.

SILVER FLESH TO PEARL SALMON PINK CENTER

Mme Leon Pain. Guillot; 1904. Souv. de Catharine Guillot)

Hybrid Tea.

(Caroline Testout

Of medium to large growth, very hardy;

stem;

foliage per-

fect leathery green to reddish tea; long, erect

medium

to large

bud, opening into a bloom of substance, full, double, and of good lasting qualities; blooms very well in spring, summer and autumn.
is the best of the lightest salmon pinks and a fine, reliable, Mme. Segond Weber is a more brilliant salmon than Mme. Leon Pain and of more perfect form, but not as reliable a bloomer in the summer and autumn. Plant 18 inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds). [The rose at the left is La Detroit, a fair rose but inferior to the newer pinks.)

This

all-round rose.

8.

TWO-SHADED PINK
Pink to Dark Salmon, Sometimes Approaching Coral Rose; Outside of Petals Dark Shade, Inside, Silver Pink
Silver

Lady Alice Stanley.

McGredy;

1909.

Hybrid Tea

hardy and very fair foliage; long, stiff stem; large bloom of great substance and petallage; a fine keeper; blooms most prolifically in spring, and quite well in summer and autumn. Undoubtedly a great rose and the best of the solid pinks of two shades, of which Lady Faire and Mrs. Hill were the forerunners. Plant IS inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds).
to large growth; very

Medium

9.

WARM CRIMSON
Robert Huey.

CERISE-EDGED PINK

Dickson

&

Sons; 1911.

Hybrid Tea
foliage, light

Medium
medium
well in

to large growth, very hardy; very

good

green

in color; fairly long, erect stems; beautiful long, pointed bud; a

bloom of great substance and petallage; blooms the spring and does remarkably well in extremely hot summer
to large

weather; a good keeper but only a fair autumn bloomer. 18 inches center to center. Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

Plant

10.

BRIGHT CRIMSON
General MacArthur.
Hill; 1905.

Hybrid Tea.

(In-

troduced bt an American Grower)

Medium

to 'large growth, very hardy; fine leathery foliage,

good

stems; fairly long bud, opening into medium-sized bloom of fair

substance; a very fine keeper and good bloomer from frost to frost. Not as large as Huey or Carle. Plant 18 inches center to center.

Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

11.

BRILLIANT CARMINE

Laurent Cable. Pernet-Ducher; 1908. Hybrid Tea Medium growth, very hardy; fairly long, erect stem, good foliage, long, pointed bud; medium to large flower of good substance and
beauty.

Blooms

well in the spring, fairly well in the

summer, and

quite well in the autumn.

to 4 eyes (buds).

Plant 18 inches center to center. Prune

12.

SCARLET CRIMSON
Geschwind; 1897. Hybrid Tea. Gruss an Teplitz. (Usually Classed with the Climbing Section). (Paxton X Fellemberg) X (PapaGontier X Gloiredes Rosomanes)

Very large growth, extremely hardy; good foliage, short stems (often weak); bloom, which opens flat, nevertheless one of the best blooming roses existing today; a mass of color from spring till after frost; while not of perfect form for cutting still such a profuse and constant bloomer that it is included in this first list. Plant 27 inches center Cut out dead wood. to center. Prune lightly.

13.

LIGHT SULPHUR YELLOW Harry Kirk. Dickson & Sons;

1907.

Tea

Classed as a Tea but with the habits of the largest Hybrid TeaB; large growth, very hardy; fine foliage, long stem; long, pointed bud,

and which does not

which opens into a bloom of medium to large size, but not double, last well; should be cut before the dew is off, or

late in the afternoon before the

splendid in spring, good in

center to center.

bud is open. A great bloomer, summer and in autumn. Plant 20 inches

Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

14.

YELLOW TO ORANGE
Duchess op Wellington.
Dickson & Sons;
1909.

Hybrid

large growth, very hardy; fine foliage, fairly long erect stem; long, pointed bud, medium to large flower, but not of great petallage; only fair keeper but a wonderful bloomer from frost to
frost; the best

Tea Medium to

yellow rose beyond

all

question.

Plant 18 inches
size.

center to center.

Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

less

Note.

Illustration considerably

than actual

15.

COPPERY
This
is

ROSEOVERSPREAD YELLOW
Dicksons' description.

WITH

GOLDEN
the

With

us, particularly in

and summer, the rose verges more from cream to orange-salmon. In the autumn it more nearly approaches
late spring

Dicksons' description.

Betty.

Dickson

&

Sons; 1905.

Hybrid Tea

Large growth, good foliage; very hardy, long stem, but not always erect; long, pointed bud; a poor keeper; opens quickly and with no great petallage; its blooming qualities, wonderful in spring and autumn, good in summer, secure it a place in the first list. Plant
18 inches center to center.

Prune to 5 eyes (buds).

16.

COPPERY SALMONREDDISH BRONZE

Mrs. A. R. Waddell.

Pebnet-Ddcher;

1908.

Hybrid

Tea Medium spreading

growth, fine foliage; very hardy,

fair

stem; pretty
keeper.

bud, but opens somewhat single; in

summer not a good

Undoubtedly the best of its color, and a wonderful bloomer in spring, moderate in summer and very good in autumn. Plant 18 inches center to center. Prune to 4 eyes (buds).

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

A Main
In the main
list

List of Roses
1,

the numbers

2 and 3 appear in

column marked "List."

No.
1
is

for the sixteen roses

which have just

sufficient for

been described, and they should be

any one desiring from twelve to

fifty roses.

The

roses listed

No. 2 are those which have stood

which have been discarded
requisite standard.

the tests very well; they have surpassed the great

main body
as not
is

of varieties

coming up to the
of honor

No. 2

list

and

is

for good, all-round roses,

with the faults plainly noted under the various

headings.
list

Before putting these roses in this No. 2

hundreds of roses have been carefully tested,

and these are the ones which have been found most
suitable for our climate
varieties.

and conditions as all-round

of all-

For a person wishing a greater variety

round roses than
is is

included in the No.

1 list,

No. 2

recommended.

If

one prefers more pink

roses, for
list,

instance, than the four

named
will

in the first

other

pink roses under No. 2

supply the want.

The

roses listed

No. 3 are special roses and should

col-

be mainly ordered either for large gardens or

lections,

or

by persons thoroughly understanding

all

their

failings,

of

which are noted under the

various headings.

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

It

would be easy to make

list

No. 3 very much

only the best

larger; for instance, in the case of the single Irish

roses,

we have
If

included in this

list

of this type.

one of these roses

is tried,

and the
is

person so experimenting wishes more,

easy for him to order others.

it

very
list

Originally our
it

was very much

the theory that

larger,

but we have cut

down on

we wish every
For
it

rose contained therein

to be the very best of its kind, or to

special merit.
this reason there
will

have some
be some

may

few roses which

be thought we should have

included, and, no doubt,

we

could have included

more which might do

well under certain conditions;

but for average conditions, and particularly for the

amateur rose grower, who does not wish a very

large

number

of roses, this list will

be found more

than

sufficient,

and

this

book

is

especially written

for such persons.

All the best

list

Hybrid Perpetuals are included

in the

No.

3,

the only Hybrid Perpetual being put in

Nos.

1 or

2 being Frau Karl Druschki.

will

No

other

Hybrid Perpetual
bloomer,
for,

compare with Druschki as a

the

as

rule,

Hybrid Perpetuals
It is true

bloom only

in

June

for a short season.

that occasionally a flower or two will

make

its

appearance in the autumn, but these blooms cannot be counted upon.

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

In
list

No. 3 we have also included some weak-

growing roses which have beautiful blooms; they

are not perfectly hardy and, in addition, are

weak

growers, but are so distinct in the beauty of their

bloom that they should be included

collection, particularly

in any large by a person understanding

their failings.

As an example

of these roses Joseph

It is

Hill

is

perhaps the best known.

of
distinct
its

a wonderful
with
it is

flower,

and beautiful

coloring,
it,

nothing of

shade to compare with

it

but

such a weak grower that

to include
it

would be hardly right

it

in list

No. 2; to place
such as
list

in

list

No.

would be doing an
good all-round
to contain.
single roses
rose,

injustice to those
list

who wish a
1 is

No.

designed

Also in
which,

No. 3 are placed some

the average in the
in-

while good bloomers and of

robust habit, are so

much below
3.

form

of their

blooms that they should not be

list

cluded in any
It has been

but No.

aimed

to cover,

under the columns of

the main

list,

the principal points of each rose.

of headings the letters

Under the greater number

"A"very good, "C"fair, "X"failure, "B"good, "D"poor,

are used to describe each variety.

Under the heading "Form

tion
45

of

Rose" the abbreviais single.

"Si" indicates that the rose

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Under the heading "Size
It will

of

Bloom" "L"

large,

"M"medium, "S"small.
be readily understood that under "Growth,"
for example, all the roses

marked "A" are not abbut for

all

solutely the

same

in growth,

practical

purposes they form an approximate class under

"A,"
ard.

all of

which would come up to a certain standall

This principle applies to

headings.

It

would be impossible, without using very many more

classes,

to

define

the

small

differences

existing

between the roses marked "A," "B,"

but for
all

"C"

or

"D,"

approximate purposes, and for general

information, each letter or letters will divide the

varieties into

class of nearly the

same merit under

each particular heading.

In order to secure the data

for so classifying each rose,

ings, careful notes

under the various headfor years,

have been taken

and

the average of each rose so tested has been noted.

As an example,

Killarney, in

list

No.

1,

is

marked

"C"
very

as to foliage.

The reason

for this is that in

damp weather
is

of long duration the foliage of

Killarney

more
if

liable to

mildew than that

of

many

varieties, or

Killarney

is

watered late in the day

mildew occurs. In ordinary seasons, and with proper

watering and other care, the foliage of Killarney
will

do

well,

but mildew

is

a failing of this very good,

all-round rose

and should be noted.

46

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

Under
to be of
size of

bloom

all

the roses under

"M"

(which stands for medium) could not be expected

a uniform

size,

but approximately they are

the same.

Concerning the blooming, as designated

it

by the

letters,

will

be appreciated that, under

fall

certain conditions, roses will exceed or

below the

averages which

we have decided upon.

list

It

would be
of

impossible to give a

all

the

subdivisions

which would be absolutely correct under any and

all

conditions; but for

list will

all

average working condi-

tions our

be found to be accurate, and by

going over the same carefully, the reader should be

able to decide just exactly

what he may expect

for hardiness indicate
kill

from any given

rose.

The
to

roses

marked

"A"

that as a rule the

wood does not winter

enough

prevent their being pruned as recommended.

the Hybrid Perpetuals, the canes in the

Among

spring will be less winter killed than the Hybrid

Teas; but as you are pruning to at most six or

seven eyes in the very strongest of the Hybrid Teas,

and as low down as two or three

that in the varieties

eyes,

you

will find

marked "A,"

as to hardiness,

the

wood

will

be living beyond this point; and,

therefore, while in reality the

Hybrid Teas marked

"A"
as

are not as hardy in the

amount

the

Perpetuals, nevertheless

of wood left we mark them

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

"A"
tion,

because the plants do not because there

is

die,

and, in addi-

enough wood

for us to cut to

the proper

number

of buds.

Those marked
kill

"B"

are roses which are likely to

back below the proper pruning mark, and someare roses

times show a death here and there, while those

marked "C"

among which you may

killing.

expect

to find a few deaths

and more winter

in the list

There are no roses

low as

which are down as

is

"D"

for hardiness.

Hardiness

of the first

moment, and we do not include any

not fairly hardy.

roses

which are

Roughly speaking, under

"A" you

should not lose over one per cent, from winter killing;

under

"B"

from two to three per

cent.,

and under

"C"

from

five to ten per cent.

Last year with a

chiefly

new

varieties,

new shipment of a thousand roses, we have lost in our entire rose

cent.,

garden about twenty plants, or one per

and

some

of the

new

plants were very small

is

and weak.

This immunity from deaths

due to the fact that

we

hill

up our

roses every

autumn, as described in
blooms in our main

the chapter "Cultivation."

The
list

color descriptions of the

are

taken from the catalogue of Alexander

Dickson
is

&

Sons, Ltd.

We

have noted where there

list

a very marked difference between this

48

and our

flowers.

BEST VARIETIES WITH CHARACTERISTICS

In marking for "stem"

we

refer to the carrying of

is

the flower; a long strong stem

marked "A," short

stems and those not able to sustain the weight of

the bloom are marked "B," etc.

"Form" has been

of the

marked
and
size

for the length

and beauty

bud and

also for the substance of the

open flower; petallage

have both been considered; short buds and

flat

blooms which open singly or

etc. ties

are

marked "B,"
keeping quali-

"Lasting"

refers entirely to the

both before and after cutting.

is

"Color"

marked

for the clearness

and beauty
if

of

the color of each rose;

rose
is

"B"

or

"C"

are used

the
solfirst

either

somewhat muddy or verges on a

which
is

ferino shade,

not considered of the

beauty in

roses.
letters are

Where two
instance:

used

it

will

be understood
for
etc.

that the description in question will range,

from

"B" good to "A"

very good,

The

last

two right-hand columns are a handy

reference for planting

for planting

and pruning, and the distances

be understood after the

may

be followed implicitly.
will

The pruning column

chapter "Pruning"
is

read;

"D. W."

in this

column

stands for dead wood.

The Main List
referred to will be

found on

the following pages.

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times

R. Note
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4,vier

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IS

IS

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SOME
roses

1915

DEVELOPMENTS
and
in these cases

During the season of 1915 a number of newer

improved
their records,

we

have changed

their

marks

in the

Main

List.

In a

few other instances minor changes have been

after the old records
results.

made

were compared with the 1915

The

following older roses have

shown

sufficient

merit to be described:

Comtesse Du Cayla. Good growth; hardy; fine

form, but opens
color

P. Guillot, 1903; China.

foliage; fair

stem; blooms

continuously throughout the season; beautiful in bud

"reddish carmine,

somewhat

singly;

most attractive

tinted orange."

Helen Good.

Good-Reese,

1908; Tea.
fair

Good
fair

growth; hardy; very good foliage;

stem;

form; bloomed fairly well throughout the season;

lasts

well;

does best on Multiflora; color

"pale
Good

yellow,

mixed with pink."

Welter, 1910; Polyantha.

Louise Welter.

growth; good foliage; hardy; blooms continuously

throughout the season; a splendid bedder; "veined

67


OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING
rose; large, regularly

formed panicles"; with

us, light

cream to
stiff

flesh

very often coming singly on a good

;

stem.

Robert Heller. Heller Bros., 1911 Hybrid Tea. Good growth; hardy; good foliage; good stem;
blooms well throughout the season; good form;
well; does well

on

its

own

roots; color

"deep golden

lasts

yellow"; towards
Smith.

fall

greatly resembles William R.

Souvenir
good
foliage;

De Gustave

Prat.

Pernet Ducher,

1910; Hybrid Tea.

Fair to good growth; hardy;

size;

good stem; medium

good form;

blooms best
does best

in the spring; very

on Multiflora; color

"light sulphur yellow."

lasts well;

In a few cases 1912 roses have improved to such

an extent that we mention them as follows:

Alex. Dickson; Hybrid Tea. C. W. Cowan. Good growth; hardy; good foliage; fine stem; medium size; good form; fair lasting qualities; color

"warm carmine
1915.
Tea.

cerise"; tea rose perfume; 30

blooms

Mrs. David Baillie. Hugh Dickson; Hybrid Good growth; very hardy; fair foliage; good

stem; spring blooms large; perfect form; lasts well;

color

"madder carmine";
the

52 blooms

1915.

Among

Dwarf Polyanthas may be noted: Ellen Potjlsen. Poulsen. "Dark brilliant pink."
68


SOME
1915

DEVELOPMENTS

Rodhatte. Poulsen. "Clear cherry red." The following introductions of 1913, not included in the Main List, have given the best results for 1915. Nicola Welter; Hybrid Tea. Elli Hartmann.
Very good growth; very hardy; good
stem;
foliage;

good

medium

size;

blooms

well; fair form; lasts well;

tea perfume; color "old golden yellow."

Killarney Queen.
same
characteristics.

Hybrid Tea.

Sport of the

well-known Killarney; slightly brighter, but having

Lady Dunleath. Alex. Dickson; Hybrid Tea. Good growth; hardy; good foliage; fair stem; medium
size;

color

"ivory cream white to egg yolk";

Tets.

blooms

well; beautiful in

bud form;

lasts well;

delicately

perfumed.

Mevrouw Dora Van

brid Tea.
tinct

M.
fair

Leenders;

Hy-

Hardy;

fair

growth;

form; most dis-

shade of "deep velvety crimson."

Alex. Dickson;
fair foliage;

Mrs. Forde.

Hybrid Tea.

Good

growth; very hardy;

good stem; medium

lasts well;

to large size; blooms well; fragrant; color

"deep carmine

good form;
rose,

on

delicate rose

pink, clear

chrome yellow at base of

petals."

Mrs. T. Hillas.
Fair growth; hardy;
size; fair

Pernet Ducher; Hybrid Tea.

fair foliage;

good stem; medium

bloomer; beautiful form; lasts well; color

"chrome yellow."

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Pkimerose. Soupert&Notting; Hybrid Tea. Fair
growth; hardy; good foliage; good stem; large
color distinct

"melon yellow during summer,

size;

early

spring and

fall

having apricot shadings"; beautiful

form; lasts well.

The

novelties of 1914 which promise best are:

Cecile Custers.

M.

Leenders;

Hybrid Tea.

"Lilac rose to deep rose pink."

Countess Clanwilliam. Hugh Dickson; Hybrid

Tea.
red."

"Delicate peach pink, edged with deep cherry

Dolly Varden.

Paul

&

Son; Hybrid Rugosa.

"Light apricot pink to yellow."

Frau Bertha Kiese.

"Pure golden yellow."

Kiese

&

Co.; Hybrid Tea.

Frau Math. Noehl. "Lemon yellow."

Josephine.
flesh to

N. Welter; Hybrid Tea.

Son; Hybrid Tea.

Paul

&

"Rosy
Sport of

salmon yellow."

Killarney Brilliant.
the well-known Killarney;

Hybrid Tea.

much

darker in color, and

should have nearly the same characteristics.

Lady Plymouth.

Alex. Dickson; Tea.

"Deep

ivory cream, faintly flushed."

Margherita Croze.
"Carmine
deep rose pink."

Ketten Bros.; Hybrid Tea.

purple, changing to purple rose, shaded

70

SOME

1915

DEVELOPMENTS
E. J. Hicks; Hybrid Tea.
soft

Mrs. Charles Reed.

yellow."

"Pale cream, tinted deep peach, to

golden

Urania.

M. H. Walsh; Hybrid
Scarlet.

Perpetual.

"Bright crimson."

Waltham
"Crimson

Paul

&

Son; Hybrid Tea.

scarlet."

We have tested some few 1915 roses for six months.

The most promising are: Jacque Poscher. Pernet Ducher; Hybrid Tea. Good strong growth; light yellow in color. Madame Colette Martinet. Pernet Ducher;
Hybrid Tea.

Very beautiful color

"old

gold yel-

low, shaded orange yellow."

It will

be realized that the roses of 1913-1914-1915,

suffi-

described above, have not been tested for a

ciently long time to render their records as conclusive as those of the older well-tried varieties.

IV

CLIMBERS
In the
list

which we have just given

in the pre-

ceding chapter
roses, as

we have not included any climbing we desire to take these up separately.

is

Unfortunately there

not at

this

time any

good, all-round climbing rose which blooms through

spring,

summer and autumn with

great reliability.

There are climbing roses which are advertised so to

bloom, but although we have tried out all of these, we cannot recommend any for the Middle Atlantic
States

and

farther north as having this very desir-

able habit

to

a marked degree,

combined with

other necessary merits.

There are dwarf climbers which bloom quite well

through the summer, but they are so very small
that they are only useful as borders to large beds

and we do not include them.

For the same reason that we have cut down our

main

list

to the

most dependable

varieties,

we have
which
to

also cut this climbing list

down
It

to those roses

we know

will succeed.

would be very easy

include a great

many more which we have

72

tried

CLIMBERS
and found
list

fairly successful,

but we

shall confine the

will

to those climbers

which we know

prove

most

reliable for the person desiring

a few of this

class only.

In order to

make

the subject as clear as possible,

we

shall divide all the various climbers into

two

classes; this is

an absolutely arbitrary division and

not at

all in

accordance with the ordinary manner

of classification.

In our

first

division

we

shall include

Climbing

Hybrid Teas and some other climbers whose blooms

have the general shape and
rose.
size of the

Hybrid Tea

Hybrid Tea climbers are mostly, as has been

roses. They do not bloom as profusely Hybrid Teas nor as constantly. They may be
in the spring,

explained heretofore, sports from very well-known

Hybrid Tea
as the

depended upon to give good blooms

and a few other blooms mainly

in the

autumn,

al-

though these are so scattered that they cannot be

called continually-blooming roses.

In addition to

these

we have

included one or two other roses which,

as stated before, have the

Hybrid Tea form

thereafter,

of

bloom;

unfortunately they bloom only in the spring and

have practically no bloom

included

but we have

them because

of their great beauty.

Ards Rover.

Hybrid Perpetual Climber; Alex.

Color
73
is

Dickson and Sons; 1898.

crimson shaded

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

maroon; medium
size,

good form; blooms in the

short stems; has a fair

spring only; flowers

petallage
in the

come on

and

is

very fragrant.

hardy rose but

North

it is

advocated that the canes should

be given winter protection.

Christine Wright.
of

Hoopes Bros, and Thomas,

Cross between Caroline

West Chester, Pa.

1903.

Testout and a Wichuraiana seedling.

Placed with

Hybrid Tea climbers on account

flowers are large
clusters;

of the fact that its in

and double; borne singly and

good form, with a perfect bud and good

is

petallage; color
tion
in
;

wild rose pink; requires no protecin spring.

blooms best

A few scattering flowers

Hybrid
Primrose

autumn.

very satisfactory climbing rose.

Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria.

Tea; two firms claim introduction; 1897.
of

same form and

color as the dwarf rose of the

same

name; very

beautiful, but

only gives

scattering

blooms throughout the season.

winter protection.

Requires heavy

Climbing Lady Ashtown.

1910.

Hybrid Tea Bradley

;

Salmon pink, not quite as good form as the dwarf rose of the same name; gives fair amount of
bloom
in spring

and an occasional bloom during

Requires heavy winter

summer and
protection.

early autumn.

74

CLIMBING ROSE CHRISTINE WRIGHT ON DR. HUEY'S PLACE

'

to

1
jl

>2

1
-'
.

'il

-HAT

I x*fib

t^v* fi^SSfri .^to

CLIMBERS
Climbing Mrs. W.
J.

Grant.

Hybrid Tea;
fairly well in

William Paul and Son; 1899.

Imperial pink; me-

dium

to large

and good form; blooms

the spring with scattering blooms in the

summer and

autumn.

Requires heavy winter protection.

Climbing Richmond.
to the ordinary

Hybrid Tea; Alex. Dickform only

son and Sons; 1912. Pure red scarlet; bloom similar

dwarf Richmond;
the

of fair

and blooming

less freely in

autumn and summer

than in the spring. Requires heavy winter protection.

Dr. Van Fleet.

Peter Henderson

&

Co.; 1910.

Reported to be a cross between a Wichuraiana and

Souv. du President Carnot.
raiana, but
It is

a Hybrid Wichuof the

on account

of the

form

bloom we
is

put

it

with the Hybrid Tea climbers.

This rose
is

more hardy than the Hybrid Tea climbers and

of

a soft flesh tint shading to delicate peach pink; gives

a bloom on somewhat longer stem than the average

climber; blooms well in the spring

and scattering

blooms thereafter.

Foliage very good.

Dr. Van Fleet has brought out through Lovett of Little Silver, N. J., another Wichuraiana Hybrid named "The Mary Lovett Rose," cross between a seedling Wichuraiana and Kaiserin Augusta a Victoria and termed a White Dr. Van Fleet. Although not yet tested by us we believe it will prove an important addition.

Reine Marie Henriette.

1878.

Hybrid Tea; Levet;

Gloire de Dijon)

Madame

Berard

(of 75

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

General Jacqueminot.

Deep cherry

red;

blooms

prolifically in the spring, the flowers

being of good

form and petallage and fragrant;

it

later in the season

occasionally gives blooms in

summer and autumn.

sports,

Requires winter protection in the North only.

There are other Hybrid Tea climbing

there
is

but

very

little

to choose between
is

any

of them.

Madame

Hector Leuillot
its

a yellow climbing
kill,

Hybrid Tea but

canes winter

and we comMelanie

sider it a collector's rose.

During the past year Climbing

Soupert has been brought out by

Madame
J. Burrell

& Com-

pany, and Climbing Grass an Teplitz has been

brought out by the Conard

&

Jones Company.

These promise to be important additions.

In our second division we have placed
all

the other

climbing or rambling roses which have given the

best results, most of

them being Hybrid Wichuraiana.

Tea
a

Except where noted they are absolutely hardy and

of

much more

vigorous growth than the Hybrid

climbers, though as a rale they only

bloom

for

short season in the early

summer and a few have

flowers.

some autumn or summer

Cecile Brunner.
three-year-old plants
tection,

Polyantha Hybrid; sprays;

This
rose, if secured in

beautifully formed, small.

and given heavy winter pro-

has proved in our experience the best bloomer

CLIMBING KAISERIN AUGUSTA VICTORIA

CLIMBERS
among climbing
eightroses.

It is

not as vigorous a climber

as the Wichuraianas,
to

but makes good growth of

ten-foot canes,

on which

its

miniature,

perfectly-formed flowers appear in sprays.

is

The color
must not

flesh

cream with a shell-pink center.

It

be confounded with the dwarf Polyantha of the

same name.
it is

On

account of

its

blooming qualities
it

our

own

favorite climbing variety, as

may

be expected to bloom splendidly in the spring, quite

well in

summer, and

also in

autumn.

There are a

few other climbing Polyanthas already catalogued,

and

several

new

roses of this class

have been

intro-

duced during the present year.

Another climbing Polyantha which has done well for some Unfortunately our plants is Climbing Clothilde Soupert. of this variety have winter killed badly; but with special winter protection it should live up to its reputation as a constant bloomer, and south of Philadelphia it will do well. The blooms are double,
growers
the color silver flesh to shell pink.

Aviateuk Bleriot. Hybrid Wichuraiana Fauque

;

et Fils;

1910.

Clusters: saffron yellow, center gol-

den yellow.

Dorothy Perkins.
kins; 1902.

Hybrid Wichuraiana.

Per-

Trusses, single, light pink.

Eliza Robichon.
1901.

Hybrid Wichuraiana. Barbier;

Trusses, single, rose, shaded old gold.

Evangeline.

Hybrid Wichuraiana. Walsh; 1907.

carmine pink.

Single, white, tips of petals

77

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Excelsa.
with good

Hybrid Wichuraiana. Walsh; 1909.

Crimson Rambler

Trusses, double, brilliant scarlet.

foliage.

Gardenia.
pretty in

Hybrid Wichuraiana. Manda; 1899.

form.

Clusters, bright yellow, paler as flowers expand; very

bud
it

Foliage very good.

Do

not

confound

with Gardenia of Soupert

with us.

&

Notting,

which

is

inferior

Hiawatha.

Hybrid Wichuraiana. Walsh; 1905.

pure white to cream.
Said to be a cross between Rosa

Single, crimson, center

Silver Moon.
Wichuraiana

Cherokee.

Extra

large, single, silver

white with golden yellow stamens, of remarkably

strong growth; very distinct.

M. H. Walsh, Woods

Hole, Mass., catalogues the

:

following unique or late bloomers

Coquina.

"Shell

pink; base of petals creamy white; produces bloom

in September."
freely in July

Debutante.
in

"Soft pink.

Blooms

and

September and October."

La

Fiamme.

"Flame-colored."
is

In Massachusetts the season

us and a rose

shorter than with

may bloom
its

there in September which

farther south ends

season in August.

greatest development in climbers, if the catalogue descriptions may be relied upon, are the following new additions, brought out in 1913-14-15, but not yet thoroughly tested by us:

The

Le Mexiqtjb, Wichuraiana;
and one grower
tells

color "pale silvery rose; clusters"; has

us that

it

introduced by Schwartz in 1913; been tested in this country, gives scattering blooms until fall.

78

CLIMBERS
Moonlight and Dan^e, introduced by Reverend
J.

H. Pember-

ton in 1914, are listed as Hybrid Teas and catalogued as continual bloomers from June until autumn. We are testing both of these; the growth is similiar to a Wichuraiana, but less vigorous; they bloom
in clusters.

Dans, "yellow," has not flowered; Moonlight, pure

white; single has given scattering blooms throughout the entire

season, the last one being noted in November.

A one year's

test

is,

of course, not conclusive as to the value of these varieties.

This year Pemberton

is

introducing three other ramblers, for

is

all

of which perpetual blooming

claimed.

is

William Paul & Son are bringing out Cordelia, which they claim a " perpetual flowering climbing rose; buds coppery yellow changing

to

lemon yellow, produced

in clusters."

M. Leenders
climbing rose" in

&

Company, of Holland, list an "ever-blooming Blanche Frowein. Color, "copper overlaid with

golden yellow."

Lambert also catalogues several ever-blooming climbers. would seem from these introductions that the long-looked-for hardy ever-blooming climbing rose may at last be a reality.
P.
It

For climates in which there

is

little

or no frost

we are glad to recommend the following climbers. With the exception of Shower of Gold, which is a
Hybrid Wichuraiana, they

may

be expected to give

blooms quite well through the season.

Celine Forestier

(Noisette).

Trouillard; 1842.

Fairly free flowering; old gold.

Cloth of Gold
Gloire
est of the

(Noisette).

Coquereau; 1843.
large'double.

Sulphur yellow, deeper center;

De
Tea

Dijon (Tea).
climbers.
(Noisette).
full,

Jacotot; 1853.

Buff,

orange center; large and double.

Perhaps the hardi-

MarechalNiel

Pradel; 1864. Bright

fine form.

rich golden yellow; large,

79

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Madame Alfred Carriere
Schwartz;
pillar rose.

(Hybrid Noisette).
free;

1879.

Pure white, very

a good

W.

A. Richardson (Noisette).
small,

Ducher; 1878.
very showy and

Very deep orange-yellow;

distinct.

Shower of Gold.
and Son; 1910.
only; foliage
fair.

Hybrid Wichuraiana.

Paul

Light cream to pale yellow; spring

In addition to the above, the Banksian and Cherokee roses give fine results for this section.

For hedges we recommend the following

sections with the

roses, for

same winter temperature as

Phila-

delphia:
in

Caroline Testout (grown

in this

so successfully

Oregon

manner) and Gruss an Teplitz.

We

would advise that these be budded on Japanese

Multiflora.

Undoubtedly there are other strong

will

growing Hybrid Teas which

do

well,

but these

have been tested

effective hedges

for this use.

Rugosas make very

and are absolutely hardy.

PLANTING CLIMBERS
In planting climbers the bed should be prepared
in exactly the

same way as
it

for

an ordinary bed,
smaller, but the

excepting that

should be

much

roots of the climbers will naturally take

up more

space underground

than the roots of the dwarf

80

CLIMBERS
bushes,
extent.

and climbers should have a bed

This
is

of

some

particularly necessary for the

Hybrid

Tea Climbers; Wichuraianas are

will

so hardy that they

do very well

if

given even a fair start.

of the

The

bed should be made

same depth and drained

feet

as the average rose bed noted under "Preparation."

For each plant the bed should be about two

wide and not
less

than four

feet in length.

In planting climbers, especially the Hybrid Teas,

it is

hardly necessary to say that they will not do

well

on the north

side of

any arbor or

wall.

Roses

must have the sun

in order to flourish and, besides,

many

climbers on a north wall would be winter

killed to

a very great degree.

all rustic

It

would be easy

in

the case of

benches, with rustic tops and

arbors running east and west, to plant roses on their

southern, eastern

and western
six-foot

sides

and secure
rustic top

plants which would entirely cover the structures.

For an ordinary

bench with a

the same length, one good climbing rose planted on

the southern side would be sufficient to cover the
entire structure.

raianas would

The very hardiest of the Wichumake a brave effort to do well on a

is

north wall, but unless this

space

the only available

use.

we would

not advise

its

There

is

one

exception to north wall planting, as explained later.

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

PRUNING CLIMBERS

Wichuraiana Climbers.
July or the
season
is

About

the

last

of

first
it is

of August,

over,

well to cut

when the blooming out some of the oldest

better opportunity to
of the

canes; this gives

new wood a

develop and

it

becomes the flowering wood

following season.

The

older

wood on Wichuraiana
it

blooms to some extent but not as well as the growth

of the previous year.
will hardly

After this August pruning

be necessary in the following spring to

do more than cut out the dead wood and keep the
plant within the prescribed bounds, which

may

be

determined by the arbor or

grown.

trellis

on which

it is

The new canes

grown

springing

from the base

season

which have

during

the previous

should remain untouched, excepting that the ends

or tops of the longest canes should be

somewhat

shortened.

The same

process used in pruning re-

cently planted Hybrid Teas applies in the case of

newly-planted Wichuraiana, and especially weaker-

growing
viz.,

climbers

planted

the previous autumn,

pruning back "wickedly" in the spring to a

This gives the roots
less

few eyes.

work to do and
summer, but at

insures good growth for the following year. It gives

no chance

for flowers during the first

best the blooms on a newly-planted climber would be

poor; the great point

is

that such cutting back gives

82

AVIATEUR BLERIOT AND GARDENIA

The two
flowers at the left are of Aviateur Bleriot, a Hybrid Wichuraiana, introduced by Fauque et Fils in 1910.

CLIMBERS
the plant a better chance to become established and
secures good flowering
thereafter.

But,
first

if

you

wood the second year and insist upon trying for some
stock, be

flowers the

summer on newly-planted

sure that such climbers as

well-established

you do not cut back have

root systems with fibrous feeding

roots

and that they were planted the previous autumn,

having been noted at that time.

their root systems

Under no circumstances should we advise allowing the canes to remain uncut on any imported
climbers of winter or early
spring planting,

and

we cannot recommend
though
if it

the course above suggested,

it

succeed with any variety

should do
three-year-

so with the Wichuraiana.

With two- and

old

dormant American field-grown plants

its

of

Wichuraan even

iana or

strong growing hybrids there

is

chance of success.
to give such plants

Most

certainly

it

would be well

special care, for example, the

use of liquid
It
is

manure

as suggested in "Cultivation."

not necessary except in the extreme North to

give winter protection to the canes of Wichuraiana;

however,

if

you

find that they die back,

in the future
in.

bend them

down

to the

ground

and cover with

earth before the severe frosts set

In "Roses and Rose Growing,"* Miss Kingsley

suggests for special effect cutting out
* "

all

the old

Roses and Rose Growing," by Rose G. Kingsley (The Mac-

millan Co.).

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

wood on Wichuraiana and
Undoubtedly very pretty
training the pliant,

new

canes over wire frames in the shape of arches.

effects could

be obtained

by this method. She also states that the Banksias, some of the Multifloras such as Crimson Rambler,
and one Noisette, Fortune's Yellow, "only flower
on the
sub-laterals,
i.e.,

on wood three years old."

We

knew

that Crimson Rambler needed practically

only thinning, but were ignorant of the interesting

fact regarding the sub-laterals.
It will

be readily

understood

how

easily

the above-named climbers

could be spoiled by unintelligent pruning.

Hybrid Tea and Hybrid Perpetual Climbers (other

than sports) and Polyantha Climbers should be
treated on

somewhat the same

principle as
is

the

Wichuraiana Climbers.

The

difference

that their
thin-

wood winter

kills

more

easily,

and therefore no

ning out of old canes should be done before spring,

and then only when such canes crowd the new

growths.

The

laterals

on the main canes should be

cut back to from two to four eyes.

Climbing Sports of dwarf

roses,

Tea Climbers and

sparingly.

Noisettes should be pruned

more

Old

canes should only be removed as they become profitless, laterals

but slightly shortened unless they are

all

crowded.
will

In the case of
if

climbers better results

be obtained

they are carefully and system-

CLIMBERS
atically trained

and fastened
Noisettes,

in place.
all

Most Hybrid

Tea Climbers,
For
all

and

the Teas need

winter protection, as above described.

climbers,

on account

of the greater

evapo-

ration due to their larger growth,

is

much more water

necessary than for dwarfs.

We

strongly

recommend

for

them the peat moss

mulch, noted

later.

LOCATION AND PREPARATION

Every one cannot have an
roses, yet given

ideal
it is

location

for

enough sunlight

astonishing

what

fine results

may

be obtained in a small bed

bordering on a path or road should no lawn space be

available.
sults

Too much shade

will

not give good re-

and the roots

of trees are very detrimental to

rose growth.
if

Unless the trees overhang the beds,

will get direct sunlight at

you believe your plants

day

least half the

there being no other place availgeneral rule a tree sends out roots
its

able

the

chances are that your bed will succeed,

but you must protect the rose roots from the roots
of the trees.

As a

in

a circumference the radius of which equals

height, but

the roots near the outer edge of the

circumference are small and can be cut without

injury to the tree; nevertheless where tree roots

once grew they

will

come back

again,

and

it is

im-

perative that the roses be protected from them.

simplest and cheapest

The
only

way

is

to line the outside of

it is

your rose bed with boards, but as these rot

a question of time before the tree roots

will

again

LOCATION AND PREPARATION

force their

way

into the space reserved for the roses,

so the boards

must be renewed.
will protect

The

best

way

is

to put in a small wall of concrete four inches in

thickness,

which

your bed

for all

time

from

this interference of tree roots.

Providing your roses get at least half a day's sunlight

and the

tree roots

do not

interfere, the

bed can
ideal

be successfully made as above proposed.

location
is

The

a south to southeast exposure, especially

with a windbreak on the north and northwest sides

from which the coldest winter winds come.

breaks

Windany-

may

be in the form of

trees, houses, or

thing which will stop the direct force of the cold,

bleak winds.
slope
if

Roses

will

do well even on a north

for.

they get the sun and are properly cared

Worse than a north slope is low land, which is not and cannot be easily drained, and where roses will
get

more

late frost

than they

will

on the exposed
selected, in

hillside.

Having looked over your ground and

accordance
with
the
general

working directions

given above, the most suitable place for your roses,

consider next the shape of the bed, the extent of

space to be given to
it

it

and the number

of plants

will

accommodate.
is

Unless formal or landscape

gardening

desired the

most

practical

form

of

bed

for roses is

one three feet wide (the proper width

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

for

two rows of

plants),

and long enough to accom-

modate the number

center to center.
will

of plants desired

when they

are

spaced at an average distance of eighteen inches,

Some

of the

weaker growing roses

do better

if

set only twelve inches apart, while

the stronger growing varieties should be placed as

far apart as three feet;

but for a working

rule, unless

you expect

to order only the very largest roses,

an

allowance of eighteen inches each will be found to

give roughly the
will hold.*

number

of plants

which your bed

Having decided on the number

of plants

which

you want before proceeding with the actual ordering of the varieties, instructions for which will be

found in the following chapter, consider what steps

are necessary to

make

the beds properly and have

them

in absolute readiness for the arrival of the

plants.

They should be made some weeks

if

before

planting to allow for settling and

settled too
soil

they should have

much below

the ground level additional

may

be added, although to conserve moisture

the actual finished level of the bed should be from

one-half to one inch below the surface of the adjacent

ground.
Rose Growing," by Wright, gives four very"Gardens for Small Country Houses," by Gertrude Jekyll and Lawrence Weaver, would be a great help to any one desiring to do more than lay out a few beds.
clever sketches for formal rose gardens.
* "Pictorial Practical

TESTING BEDS ON DR. HUEY'S PLACE

LOCATION AND PREPARATION

The matter
soil,

of soil, or of the best composition of

for the rose

bed

is

a very interesting one, and

when a person wishes

large
scale beds

to go into rose growing on a

should be constructed for each

particular kind of rose.

Pemberton goes most thoroughly

of soils
;

into this subject

any one contemplating the planting of several

will

hundred roses
soils.

do well to study
roses',

his

chapter on

He

advocates for

where autumn blooms

are desired, from forty to seventy per cent, of clay

in the bed,

and

this

statement of his has been borne

soils.

out by our experiments with different

The most complete and technical book on this subject which we have found is: "Soils," Lyon and
Fippin; L. H. Bailey, editor.

A rule which
is

seems to be endorsed by

all

rosarians

that Hybrid Perpetuals and the stronger Hybrid

in clay,

Teas do better

and the weaker Hybrid Teas

in soil containing

and Teas are more certain to thrive

some sand.
Until his death, the late

Mr. Frederick W. Taylor,

of Philadelphia, conducted a great

many

interesting

and exhaustive experiments with

soils,

different kinds of

particularly in relation to the growing of grass

roses.

but to some extent in testing

beds have been

Some

of his

made up
89

in

most complicated and

expensive ways, and while good results have been

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

secured, nevertheless, from careful comparison be-

tween

his roses

and those

in

our ordinary beds,

gained
to

we

cannot see enough advantage

warrant

our recommending his beds for general use, primarily

on account of the expense and trouble involved in

their construction.

No

doubt some one

will

event-

ually discover the best beds for each given type of

rose,

changes in the beds being

made

in accordance

with the different habits of growth of the plants.

When
their

these

new beds

are developed

it is

hoped that
rose
It
is

originators will bring

them before the

felt

growing public and supply a long

want.

our opinion that for the average rose lover

who

wants to grow his few dozen plants, such experiments, while interesting, would not as yet be practical

and would certainly be very expensive.

in the regular beds,

It is far

better to order the best roses as carefully tested

and

to construct beds
results
is,

from which

good all-round and practical

at a moderate cost.

may be obtained
new
we

There

however, one

feature of

Mr. Taylor's experiments which seems

is

very practical and useful and

so simple that

take great pleasure (with his permission) in recom-

mending
This

it

for rose beds,

i.e.,

the covering of the

bed in the spring with a blanket of peat moss.

is

a non-conductor of heat and

cold,

and

will

not only keep the moisture in the ground by pro-

LOCATION AND PREPARATION

tecting
it

from the sun's absorbing rays but also

greatly reduce the actual temperature of the bed.

In July and August the ground temperature of

beds covered with this mulch

is

from

five to six

degrees lower than adjacent beds.

Later,

when the
it

average ground temperature

is

is

below seventy, there

little

if

any

difference.

In addition to this

prevents some seeds of weeds from germinating, so

that this cover practically eliminates constant weeding.

It also gives the

beds a neat and most attracbest time to put on this peat

tive appearance.

The

moss
to

is

as yet an undecided point, but

we are inclined

recommend placing the moss on the beds after the frost is well out of the ground and before the days become very warm. Undoubtedly after this year, in which we shall try covering different beds at different times, this new operation will be better
understood.

This peat moss

may

be secured from any nursery,

and

it

should be ground fine by a machine, then

it is

sprinkled with water before

to keep
it

placed on the beds,

from blowing about.

By putting on

six-

inch blanket you will secure the depth required of

from three to four inches.

In order to avoid breaking the rose canes the
safest

way

to pack the

moss properly
It will

into place

is

to trample

on

it

carefully.

be found that the

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

roses so covered will give

bloom about

as early as

plants left unprotected

by moss, and during the

moss renders watering
less

hottest weather the covered plants will thrive to a greater degree while the

necessary, and thereby

somewhat prevents the

likeli-

hood

of mildew.

tested with and without moss show that the covered plants bloom only one day later, but hold the bloom much longer.

The beds we have

In some of our beds

we

are putting a four-inch

layer of peat moss at each side of the bed

and at

the ends, which should the temperature low.

sary,

still

further act in keeping

this necesof long

We

do not think

but in

districts

where dry, hot weather

duration occurs, and in seashore planting, where

soil

must be imported, and where the

soil

existing, ex-

tremely sandy

surrounding the rose bed becomes

very hot, such side protection should be of great

benefit.

the bottom of the bed and

The moss should go from make a

the surface to
four-inch wall
it.

between the bed and the hotter ground around

Where cement
unnecessary.

or boards have been used to keep

is,

out tree roots, this side protection

of course,

Peat moss

is

worth about fourteen dollars a ton

will

by the carload and one ton

hundred yards

cover over one

of rose beds, averaging three

and one-

LOCATION AND PREPARATION

half feet in width, the finished level of the

moss being
would

over three inches; in other words, two hundred

pounds, at a cost of

less

than two

dollars,

protect ten yards of rose bed, or about forty plants.

The hundred-pound
than the carload

price

is

little

more expensive
itself.

rate.

To

return to the composition of the bed

We

have found that there are two most important

first,

things necessary to insure success:

the bed
of

must underdrain,
will

to get rid of

any great surplus

water, so that in very

damp

seasons the rose roots

not be too wet; second, the bed must, on the

other hand, retain moisture to a certain extent so

that in very dry seasons the roots will not be too
dry.

To
is

obtain the drainage

it is

necessary in

soil

which

greatly composed of clay to underdrain

layer of crushed stone; where the soil

the beds
is

by a more open,
if

gravelly or sandy, this

is

not needed.

The bed should be made two and

depth
underdrainage
is

one-half feet in

necessary, with about six

inches of crushed or broken stone put in the bottom;

small crushed stone

lies

evenly,

and the earth does

not

sift

through

it

enough to clog the drainage.

Large or uneven stone should be covered by something to keep the earth from sifting through.
the bed
face
is

If

made

in a

lawn the turf cut from the suris

and turned upside down

a good expedient,

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

or a couple of inches of fine cinders will be found all

that

is

required.

Fine stone
is

is

really the best.

Of

course, for a location which

gravelly or sandy, this

stone will not be needed and a depth of two feet will

be

sufficient.

We

will

now

consider that

we have dug a

trench,

the bottom either covered or not covered with stone

to the depth of six inches, as the case

may

be,

but

which

is

now two

feet

deep from the ground

level.

It should

be noted that in digging this trench for

soil

the bed the top

should be placed in one pile

and the
about

subsoil in another.

The top
is

soil is

the

soil

on the surface, which runs to

six

different depths, usually

inches,
of

and which

composed

for the

most part

decayed vegetation from the roots of

It contains

many

generations of grasses, etc.

a per-

centage of

humus and

is,

therefore, very valuable as

it is

food to the rose roots.

Usually

darker in color

than the subsoil and can easily be noted.

In

soils
it

where there
will

is

a large percentage of clay or loam

not be necessary to use subsoil other than that

taken from the trench, as far as one-third of the

mixture to be put back into the bed

is

concerned;
it

but where

soil is

very gravelly or sandy

would be

best to secure

some heavy loam or clay

to

make

the

proper kind of bed.

one-third top
soil,

The

finished

bed should be

one-third heavy clay subsoil, and

LOCATION AND PREPARATION

one-third

cow manure.

There

will

not be enough

top

soil

taken from the trench to supply the one-

third necessary for the bed,

and more must be

provided.

In localities where there

is

no heavy clay or loam

which
a very

there will often be found heavy, dark soil which

contains decayed leaves, roots,

etc.,

is

good substitute.

Subsoil containing sand in

any

quantity should have loam and clay added and top

soil soil

containing

much sand

should have other top

added.

Reverting to what we have said before,

clear, it will

and so as to make our objects perfectly

be remembered that the
soil

should be heavy enough

to hold moisture, be rich

enough for sustenance, and

yet must drain at the bottom, as otherwise in wet

seasons the plants will be too damp.

The
all

ideal

way to mix the top

soil,

clay

and manure
for

in three equal parts

would be by machine, but

practical purposes
all

we have found
is

the following

procedure to be

that

necessary:

Cover the

bottom

of the trench

with a given number of wheel-

barrow loads
the same
soil,

of the rich, darker top soil, then

add

number

of loads of the lighter, clayey subof loads of

and then an equal number

manure,

after

which the whole bed should be forked together

After this
first

thoroughly to mix the ingredients.

layer
is

thoroughly mixed, proceed as above with the

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

wheelbarrow loads of each ingredient and mix again.
After each mixing the bed should be thoroughly

rammed, otherwise
finished.

it

will settle too

much

after

it is

In addition to the above, we would advocate adding,

for every twenty-five feet of bed, the following:

one

bucket of lime, evenly distributed, to be added after

the
first

layer

is

mixed, and one bucket of bone meal,

evenly distributed, to be added before the last layer

is

put

in.

When making

beds for autumn planting

it

would

be well to realize that very often roses imported

from the other side are delayed.

leaves not
frosts

The season may

be very late with the European growers, and the

fall

from the plants until after our heavy

(which

may

be early ones) have frozen the

ground.

For

this reason,

when the beds

are

made

the ground conditions

must be

carefully watched,

and

if

frost appears
litter.
if

they should be covered with a

heavy
so that

This will usually protect the ground

the roses do not arrive until well into the

still

autumn they may

inches of

be planted.

We

have sucsix

cessfully planted roses after

hard freezing and

snow

in

December, our beds having been

litter

covered with a heavy

before the

snow

fell.

When

planting

we removed snow and

96

fitter

and the

following year our roses did well.

VI

ORDERING
Having gone
ties"

carefully over the chapter

lists

on " Varie-

and considered the

of roses, the reader will

It is believed that the

be ready to order his plants.

suggestions hereinafter given will aid in avoiding

many

of

the errors and disappointments usually

connected with this necessary work.

Ordering
is

indeed one of the most important

features to be considered;
insures success,

when properly done

it

it is
is

and when improperly done

sure to bring disappointment

and to secure what

not desired.

An
all

understanding of the conditions

which beset
age

nurserymen would do much to help

towards success.

The main

trouble

is

that the aver-

man
if

does not properly specify just what he

it,

wants and when he wants

nor what he desires

filled

done

the

order cannot

be

exactly with

each variety ordered.

stitution.

He

does not consider sub-

The nurseryman
clerks, his

receives his greatest

number

of
his

orders in the spring

and autumn when he and

packers and his entire force are over-

worked.
7

He

has only so
97

many

varieties

and only

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

so

many

plants of each, and his roses are in a cer-

tain condition, which

may

or

may

not be good.

Therefore the
fying exactly
of securing

man who

sends his order early, speci-

what he wants, stands the best chance

desires.

what he

Later orders, unless

very

specific,

naturally are

filled

from what stock

is left,

not always with what was desired, and the

fault does not rest with the

nurseryman.
request
is

If

the
for
re-

order
its

is

properly

made out and

and the

immediate

filling,

made nurseryman who

is

ceives the order advises that he

unable to ship,

then the purchaser has an opportunity to place his

request elsewhere; but
if

the order

is

not properly

made out and does not

tions the

specify regarding substitu-

shipment

may

not be satisfactory.

At the end
and which

of this chapter

we supply

a form of

order blank which thoroughly covers the matter

will greatly aid the reader.

In ordering roses the following requisites should be specified:

possible
field-grown, two-year-old stock or
if

three-year-old

stock;

budded
stock.

stock,

not

grafted or own-root roses, except perhaps in case of

some climbing

varieties;

dormant

In addi-

tion instructions should be given for substitutions.

Ordinarily dormant
either spring or

roses are

much
if

better for
roses are
it is

autumn

delivery; but

ordered after the growing season has started

ORDERING
impossible to get dormant plants.

In our opinion

plants which have started growth are uncertain but

with care
If

will often

do

well.

the ordering

is

done

in the fall

and the roses

frozen hard

are so late in coming that although the beds have

been covered with

to

litter
it is

the ground

is

some depth and

impossible to plant them,

do not, under any circumstances, have them kept

indoors during the winter; for they will then generally

sprout and,

if

planted early, will be set back by the

if

late frosts, or

kept until later will be set back on

account of their change after growth has started.

It

would be wiser to heel the plants

is,

in the

open

ground; that

dig a trench deep enough to cover

the roses half-way up the canes and place the plants

therein, filling in with

dry earth.

As we

believe that the greater

number

of

budded

roses can be properly secured

from almost any large

nurseryman, the nearest one would perhaps be the

best from
Alex.

whom

to order.

The

roses

budded by
every

Dickson

&

Sons,

of

Ireland,

whom
feel,

nurseryman knows, are as good as any foreign roses

and
that

will

include

most

varieties.

We

after
roses,

having planted

many

of Dicksons'

budded

we can

safely

recommend them, though by

so

doing we do not wish to condemn the budded foreign

roses of

any other grower; we simply have not

tried

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

them
been
to

any great extent because we have always

with Dicksons' stock, Dr. Robert
it
it

satisfied

Huey having used

also having tested

for over thirty years

and we

for nearly fifteen.

Recently, as

there have been

tried

we have mentioned in "Propagation," some American firms who have

budding on Japanese Multiflora.

of these plants for

We

have

grown some

a number of years

past and have had very good success with them.

In ordering from such growers the planter has the

advantage of securing stock more or

less acclimated,

and does not run the

risk of

having the heat of the

is

steamers sprout plants directly imported; he

dealing with firms close at

hand and

is

also aiding

an American enterprise.

We,
ties

therefore, suggest that

when

the desired varie-

may

be secured, the same can be obtained from

the following growers,

who
There

are budding on the

Japanese Multiflora.

may be may

other firms

unknown

to us

who

are using this stock, but at the

present time these budded plants

be secured
J.;

from George H. Peterson, Fairlawn, N.

Bobbink
first

&

Atkins, Rutherford, N. J.

Peterson was the

it

to our

knowledge to grow

to

any

extent,

and

while

it is

not mentioned in his catalogue as "Jap-

anese Multiflora,"
used.

we understand
100

this is the stock

ORDERING
The budding
tainly
of roses

by American

firms

is

cer-

a great advance in rose culture and of

to our rose growers.

inesti-

mable value

ble to secure the varieties desired,

Where it is possiwe recommend

nurserymen.

American field-grown
of-doors

plants,

budded and grown outof

by any well-known firm

large
collections

when American fieldgrown stock cannot be obtained, we would suggest that budded stock as grown by Alex. Dickson &
For
all

Sons, of Ireland, be ordered from the nearest nur-

seryman.

When making

inquiry or ordering

we

advise the use of blanks similar to those suggested

by

us.

Out-of-doors a few roses budded on the Multiflora

do not give as perfect color as those budded

stocks,

on other
to be the

and we believe an example of this Lyon Rose. In our greenhouse the Lyon
results,

Rose on Japanese Multiflora gave splendid

but outside the color was not always perfect; the

Lyon Rose on other

outdoor culture.

stocks does not succeed well in

This bears out the statement in

the chapter on "Propagation" that different stocks

should be used for different varieties, and that the

best stocks for
all

roses

have not yet been

definitely

decided.

We

particularly wish the reader to understand

that the care which

we have used
101

in going into the

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

matter of ordering and our remarks pertaining
thereto are not

meant

in

any way
of

to reflect

upon

nurserymen, through
ceived orders
relations

have

whom we have reproperly filled, and with whom our been most pleasant. On the contrary,
many

we show

the purchaser the conditions under which

the nurserymen labor and point out a practical

way
will

in

which ordering

may

be done, so that there

be no disappointments to the purchaser, and

that pleasant relations will be maintained between

him and the grower

or importer.

We

believe this

explanation of conditions will help the nurseryman

as well as the purchaser, for

we

are of the opinion

that the errors which occur are generally the fault

of the

man who

orders.

In closing,

we wish

to

add a few words regarding

of the

the different times of the year in which planting

may
in

be done.

The temperature
is

ground

is

as important as the time of year,

and the condition

which the plant

success

received has
either.
is

more

to

do with

future

than

Unless the growing

season has begun and

well under

way

plants

must be received

in

a dormant condition.
all

We

ourselves have planted roses at

times of the year

and have found that

dition

if

the plants were in proper con-

and properly handled they have nearly always

if

done

well;

plants were not in proper condition, no

102

ORDERING
matter
tically

how much

care

was used,

failure

prac-

always resulted unless plants received green-

house care.

The advantage
is

of planting roses in the

i.e., if

autumn
if

that

if

they are dormant,

growth has stopped

for the year prior to their shipment,

and

they

have not been subjected to heat during shipment

causing growth
to

recommence,

they will

when

planted become more or

less fixed in their position,

and

little

fibrous roots will

have

in

most instances

commenced growth before spring. Roses so planted and which have become so established will start off
well in the spring,

much

better than a rose which

has only been in the ground a short time.

Our advice
of replacing
this:

to all planters with

is

whom

the expense
is

dead plants
to

not of

much moment

From October

May

plant your roses as

soon as you have decided that you want them.

Undoubtedly, you

will lose

some

if

you plant
if

after

the growing season has begun; perhaps

you plant
in

the last of the winter you will not secure as good

roses as
if

you

set out perfectly

dormant plants

the late autumn, but no doubt a great

many

of

them

will

following

come through and be better plants the year than if you had waited, say from the
autumn.
In addition
is

early spring to the following

to this there

the pleasure of having the roses.

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

SUGGESTED FORMS FOR INQUIRY AND ORDER BLANKS
Can you supply
dormant
following roses:
(LIST
in two- or three-year-old

field-grown,

budded plants the

OF ROSES)
all

In the event of not having

varieties,

the above
substitute

what plants can you

which comply with the above requirements?

On what

date can you ship?

using
enclosed

Kindly answer at once,

addressed and stamped envelope

If
if

answer

is

to

hand by

I will,

satisfactory, at once place order; other-

wise I will not consider same.

This

is

an inquiry

NOT an order

Note:

In ordering climbing varieties other than Hybrid

104

Teas leave out the word "budded."

ORDERING
When
a satisfactory reply
is

received the order

is

should be placed and the following form

Please place
roses, as per

suggested:

my

order for the following

(date)

my inquiry of
of

and your reply

(date)

(LIST
I

OP ROSES)

understand that the above-named roses

are two- or three-year-old dormant field-

grown, budded plants; that there are to

be no substitutions;
that they are to be shipped
(LIST
I

me on

(date)

OF CLIMBERS)

understand that the climbers are own-

root plants, otherwise they are as above

specified.

VII

PLANTING
Let us suppose
morning
it

that your beds are ready, your

shipment has been ordered, and on one eventful

has arrived.

You

naturally take great

pains to unpack carefully and to see that the varieties

received

check

off

properly with

the order

given.

Sometimes one or more mistakes

in a large shipment,

may

be

made

but as a usual thing

great care has been exercised both in the selection

and packing

of

your order, and

it

should arrive in

good shape and the varieties should be as ordered.

Very
for

often the nurseryman will add a plant or two

good measure.

The

plants should be unpacked

inside

some

building, unless perfect weather condiviz.,

tions

prevail,

a damp, moist day

neither
off,

cold nor hot.

After having been checked

the

plants should be carefully covered so that the roots

will neither

be frozen nor dried out by too

much
is

wind or heat.

Usually the roses come packed in

left

moss which should be

on them.

If there

no

moss, cover the roots with

damp

earth,

and when
sacks; or,

taken outside keep them protected with any kind

of wrapping, such as burlap or

gunny

better

still,

keep them in buckets or tubs of water,

PLANTING
except in freezing weather,
plant.

when you should not

This

is

most important so that the roots

may

be placed in the ground in proper condition.

Before taking the roses to their beds you should

have made a small plan

to plant them;
this
if

of just

how you propose

effect

for

a formal or landscape
all

has no doubt been

arranged beforehand to

suit

your

taste.

If,

however, you are merely planting

them

in the ordinary

form of bed

it is

a very simple

matter to have your bed arranged for their reception.

You know what

roses are coming,

you have the

distance apart in which they should be planted

(covered in our main

list),

and you should decide

on the order
Personally
order, as

in

which you wish to place them.

and that

we prefer planting roses in alphabetical we find that nature's colors never conflict it is the easiest way of telling where any
is

particular rose

located.

Your bed should be three feet wide for Hybrid Teas and Teas. For Hybrid Perpetuals and very
strong growers four feet
is

better.

You

plant your

roses ten inches from the edge of the

bed and eigh-

teen inches apart,

and you do not plant them

exactly opposite to one another; in other words,

you "stagger" them.

one row you plant the

You have two rows

first

of plants,

each row ten inches from the side of the bed.

107

With

rose nine inches from the

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

end of the bed; with the other row you plant the
first

rose eighteen inches from the

same end
in

of the

bed.

This does not bring the plants opposite one

trifle

another and gives them a

to grow,

more room

which

making them eighteen inches apart each

way.

For our own beds we make a drawing, as

indicated
to correct

by sketch below, which we

from time to time
if

find very easy

is

a rose dies or

taken

out for any reason and another substituted.

pose, for example,
roses

Sup-

you have decided to put

following:

in four

each

of

the

Antoine

Revoire,

Duchess of Wellington, General MacArthur, Killarney,

and two each

Hill.

of Souv.

du President Carnot

and Joseph

AADDGGJKKP AADDGGJKKP
DDuchess of Wellington GGeneral MacArthur JJoseph Hill KKillarney PPresident Camot..'
AAntoine
Name
Revoire
Introducer

Bed

Date

Color

Notea

PLANTING
Make a compass drawing as outlined so that there may be no question as to which end of the bed you refer.
This plan
is

suggested because labels are a delusion

last,

and a

snare,

do not

and

also

become misplaced,

so that while

we keep
is,

labels in our beds

we depend
It is

upon our written plan

to

for positive information as

what each rose

its location, etc.*

but

the matter of a few

moments

to

make

this record

and the time so occupied Having run two

of the bed,

will well

repay you.

lines ten inches

from each side

other,

and from one end to the

off

you can

then space
is

the proper point at which each rose

to be planted

by a

stake,
line.

which can be measured

roses

with ordinary rule or

The

which we have

given are to be placed eighteen inches apart, with

the exception of Joseph Hill, President Carnot, and

Antoine Revoire, which are to be placed twelve and

fifteen inches apart.

Before starting work put on a

pair of gloves to protect your

hands from the thorns.

Bring out but a few roses at a time, and, in order to

avoid any possible mixing of the plants, each variety
should be kept absolutely separate and planted at one

time before the next kind

*The most
white lead
practical label

is

placed in the bed.

label with white lead paint.

is fresh.

outdoor varnish.

is made as follows: Cover a wooden Write on label with a soft pencil while Allow the white lead to dry and then cover with Labels received with new stock will be rendered

more

lasting

by the use

of varnish.

109

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

Sometimes rose roots are injured
in
in the shipment,
off

which case

it will

be necessary to cut
of

the broken

ends.

good pair

pruning shears and a sharp

for this work.

knife are the

two best implements

Cuts should be sharp and clean and the roots should

be cut
off

above the break.

It will only take

it is

a minute

to examine each plant before

to cut off broken roots

actually set
in

and

and any suckers

which

growth

may have

started.

The

thing to be most carefully considered, and

in planting roses, is to dig

most important

a hole
is

about eighteen inches deep, the center of which

approximately the center of the mark for the

rose.

The

earth should be taken out with a spade from

it,

this hole and, before finally placing the earth in

two things should be carefully noted:

roots spread out at the

that

the

bottom and do not

cross one

another.

The more you spread out your

will get,
little

roots the

more sustenance the plant

and the more

It is

room

there will be for the

fibrous roots.

particularly difficult to spread out the roots of pot-

grown
and

plants, as they

become curled

in the pots;

this is

one reason

why pot-grown

plants are
is

not recommended.
that the bud,
i.e.,

The

other important point

the point at which the variety has

will

been budded to the stock, which you

easily

note, should be at a certain given distance below

no

PLANTING
the ground level.

On

these

two

factors

depend

the size of your excavation.

The bud should be

This

not

less

than two inches and not more than three

inches below the finished level of the bed.

seems
if

like getting
is

down
it is

to very exact planting, but

the bud

higher

not sufficiently protected in

if it is

winter,
lower.

and the rose does not do as well

planted

The

hole being properly dug, place your rose in

it,

carefully spreading out the roots so that they

do

not cross or touch one another at any point.

will

This

take some time and care, but

it is

of the greatest
it

importance to the future growth of the rose that

be properly done.

Two

persons can do the work

much

better than one.

In our

own

planting
soil

we
and
also

always have a small bucket containing top

bone meal

finely

powdered

in equal parts

which we

lightly sprinkle at the

bottom

of the hole

and

on the roots; we have found

to their growth, because
of
it

this to

be very helpful

precludes the possibility

is

any manure touching the roots (manure which

and not well rotted
will

too fresh

burn them) -and

promotes the growth of the very much to be desired fibrous feeding roots.
is

After this preparation

soil

put

in,

we have our
a
little

helper shovel in the

fill

carefully,

at a time, to
it

up the

hole.

As

he puts

it in,

we tamp

firmly with a stick, and,

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

as the hole gradually
fills,

we take
is

particular care

that there

is

no space

left just

underneath the main

root of the plant, for air space

to the growth of the rose.

most detrimental
filled

Having

up the

hole to the ground level of the bed,

rose to be planted,

we

consider the

and proceed

to the next.

When
it

the

first

hole

is

dug, remove the earth and put

beyond the stake

for the last hole, then use the earth

fill

from the second hole to

around the

first

plant

and so on

this saves

much work and

insures keeping

the entire bed the same level.

An

easy

way

to get your approximate

two and

one-half inches below the ground for your

bud

is

to have a lath or other straight piece of wood, in

the center of which a two and one-half inch measure

is

nailed.

This

will enable

you

to secure
It

an exact
if if

and proper depth

this operation

for

your bud.

seems as
it is,

should be very simple, and

the main points, as enumerated above, are carefully

and absolutely carried

These
cess of
First,

out.

rules are so important for the future suc-

your plants that we again enumerate them:

unpack indoors unless weather conditions

are absolutely perfect.

Second, keep the roots well covered, preferably

with moss with

if

they have been packed in

it,

otherwise

damp

earth, or coverings, or water.

PLANTING
Third, have your bucket containing a mixture of

equal parts of top

soil

and bone meal to place

around the

roots.

Fourth, take plenty of time in digging the hole to

get
it

large

enough and wide enough at the bottom

the roots cross one another.

to spread the roots properly.

Fifth,

do not

let

Sixth, plant carefully

and

slowly,

tamping down
raising
air

the earth with a stick, making sure

by gently

and lowering as the earth is filled in that no space remains below the main part of the root.
Seventh,

do not place the bud more than three

inches or less than two inches from the finished

surface of the bed.
If it is

impossible to finish your planting in any

roses.
is

one day take particular care of the remaining

Keep them heeled

so late that

in

damp
soil.

earth, or
this,

if

the season

you are unable to do

keep them well

covered indoors with

It is

very easy to cover

litter

the finished beds with a heavy

of
If

manure
a quanfor use,

and straw

to keep the frost from them.

tity of soil is

mixed and kept indoors ready

holes can be

dug and the plants

this

set in this soil as

has been suggested in "Location and Preparation."

We
late

have used

method
it is

successfully in the very

If plant-

autumn and

at the end of the winter.

ing in the late autumn,

well to protect the plants

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

as

much

as

you can.

The

best

way

to

do

this is to

add a few wheelbarrow loads

after planting

of soil to the beds

plant, hilling

and make them up as

little
it

were,

mounds around each and then covering

litter

these with

litter.

If this is

done the coarse

should be removed in the early spring and the fine

manure remaining should be forked

summer.

carefully into

the bed, as this will be a good fertilizer during the

In autumn planting you will generally

find that rose plants

have been cut back to about a

foot from the ground,

and

if

this is the case leave

them
full

as they are.

If,

however, they have the long,

growth they had when taken up or a large part

cut back to a foot and a half.

of

it,

Hybrid Teas and Teas budded on Multiflora need

more room than when budded on Briar or Manetti.

Under the heading "Distance

in the
all

to Plant in Inches,"

Main

List,

allow four inches additional for

Multiflora.

plants

budded on

VIII

PRUNING
Pruning
is

one of the most important parts of

it is

rose culture; just as

most necessary

to prepare

the ground properly and to plant intelligently, so

also should

one be certain to prune systematically.

plant
is

The whole growth of the manner of its pruning.

Under climbing
their proper care
varieties

changed by the

we have

given rules for

and

in this chapter

we

will

take

up that pruning which tained in our main list.

theory of
it is

applies to all the roses conIt is

an easy matter when the

Perhaps the simplest

understood.

and
on

clearest illustration

which could be given would

fifteen

be to suppose a rose cane has

it;

buds or eyes

from these buds or eyes spring the shoots

which afterward become the flower stalks of the

plant.

Now,

if

you did not prune at

all

but

left

the entire cane, the sustenance received from the

roots would be divided into fifteen parts.

As a

matter of fact the greatest amount would go to the

end or top of the cane and to those buds nearest

the top, for in
all

plant

life it is

more

difficult to

get

the sap to break the buds nearest the base, especially

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

if

there

is

too great a distance from that base to the

top of the lateral, limb, or cane.

Roses
growers

will

differ

in

growth and the strongest

In addition

will naturally

throw out more buds on any

given length of cane than the weaker.

to this, plants of low spreading growth,

whose canes

grow more or
as

less parallel to

the ground, do not

send their sap as quickly to the ends of the growth

do plants whose canes are more upright.

For

this

reason different varieties require somewhat different

pruning, and in our
of eyes or
list

we have

given the number

buds to which each variety should be cut

back, provided, of course, the

wood has not been

Returning
illustration of the

winter killed below the point indicated.

to the theory of the sap

and the

cane with fifteen buds: we cut

off,

say, ten of these

buds from the cane and the

receive just so

five

remaining

will

much more

sap and there will be that

much more chance

of the lowest
If the

buds breaking and

cane were not cut

sending out their shoots.

the greater part of the sap would go to the few top

buds and the lower buds would be

late in growing,

some possibly not breaking at

the weaker varieties
their

all.

Nature prunes

by

killing

back a portion of

wood, thus causing them to throw up strong,

canes.

new

It will readily

be understood that the larger the

PRUNING
cane and the hardier and more vigorous the plant,
the more buds could be
left

with

still

a chance for

their breaking; conversely, the

weaker the variety

less

and the smaller the cane the and grow shoots

is

sap would be

contained therein and the fewer buds would break

in

any given length

of cane.

This

the main theory of pruning roses, provided that

it is

reasonable quality, and not quantity without

much quality, that one wants. The average rose plant in its second year
variety,
if

should

give from fifteen to fifty blooms, according to the

it
is

cut back on this principle.

fifteen

Shy

bloomers
greater

will

not give

flowers

and the

number

of these will be borne in the spring.

Usually a good bloomer will have three or four

flowering periods, the

most profuse being

in the

spring and early

are as follows:

fall.

Some

of our records for 1914

Duchess

of Wellington:

June, thirteen flowers;

July, eight flowers; August, ten flowers; September,

sixteen flowers; total forty-seven.

Madame Leon
six flowers;

Pain: June, eleven flowers; July,

August, eight flowers; September, eight

flowers; total thirty-three.

Lady

Alice Stanley will give twenty-five flowers;

Killarney a few more;

Mock

not over twenty;

General MacArthur twenty-five.

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

These figures are made from average plants, not
lected specimens,
se-

and the

late

bloom

is

not included.
fair

In counting blooms only those with

considered and the usual
If

stems are

amount

of disbudding done.

you

desire

more blooms
also

of poorer quality

you

should not prune your roses as far back as suggested

below.

They

will

require a certain

amount

of thinning out after the

growing season starts so

that the various shoots do not crowd each other too

much.

Except

for the strongest varieties of roses

i.e.,

which are so pruned they should be staked,

fasIf

tened to a stake driven firmly into the ground.

you so prune and stake do not use wire but

bushes to the stakes with soft woolen string.
latter course of

tie

the

This

pruning

is

usually carried out with

roses of the bedding type,

on which the blooms are

seldom

fine

enough

for cutting; but so treated the

plants form a

mass

of color

and are used

for this

reason for garden decoration.

The

best

and usually accepted way

is

of pruning

roses for cutting

to

prune for the

finest

blooms.

As a general working
ties to five

rule

prune the strongest variesix to ten inches,

buds or eyes, about

on

the main strong canes, the small weaker canes being

cut to three or four eyes, about six inches.

You
leads

can always
direction

make your

plant grow in whatever

to a

you wish by cutting

bud which

PRUNING
in the

desired direction;
if

e.g.,

in

order to spread

your plant,

the

fifth

eye

is

on the inside of plant,

cut to the eye above

it if is

a large cane, for the eye

if

above
is

is

on the outside of the plant; or

the

wood

somewhat smaller and weaker than the other

canes on the plant cut to the outside eye below.

In this

way your
all

plant will be spread out and the

shoots will not

crowd together on the

if

inside, as

would be the case

special cases

you cut

to inside eyes.

It is

always better to cut to an outside bud; although in

where you wish to throw a shoot in

direction cut to the
fill

some other desired

bud nearest

the space you wish to

with the new growth.

With weaker

varieties cut to three

and four eyes on

of these
stalks.

the stronger-growing canes, and to two and three

eyes on the very

left

weak

ones.

Each

buds

on the cane should throw up flower

In addition to this main theory, there are one or

two other points which

pruning plants.

it is

necessary to consider in

They should not be too much crowded and the best way to prevent this is by cutting out the weakest growths. At first it may
be somewhat
difficult for

one to be sure which cane

should be removed, but by watching the plants

after

growth

is

started this will soon be readily

understood.
the

An

absolute rule cannot be given for

to

number

of canes

be

left,

but there must

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

not be too

much

crowding,
All

particularly

in
also

the

center of the plant.

dead wood should

it

be

removed.

This can be easily detected and

live

should

be cut back to the

wood, care being taken not

to injure the bark of the latter

and

to

make

a clean,

sharp amputation.
Quite a number of varieties have the unfortunate
habit of throwing out one or perhaps two very large

growths on one side of the plant, the opposite side

being correspondingly immature and weak.

In such

cases, in order to balance the plant, particularly for

succeeding years, cut back the one or two large

growths very "wickedly," one or two eyes being the

proper distance.

Cut out

all

but the best of the

remaining weaker stems, and after growth has com-

menced do not allow the stalks on the strong canes This treatment will serve to get beyond control.
to equalize the growths on such plants.

In England,
far,

where the cold does not

kill

back the canes so

the Hybrid Teas are pruned to a greater

eyes.
line

number

of

Pemberton, for example, advises leaving Carofeet,

Testout from two to three

but in our climate

this rose

would be

killed

back to from four to eight

inches

and

in the north to
is

an even greater degree.

Pruning
frost

usually done after the

main body

of

has

left

the ground.

Where

frost does not

occur the pruning should be done at the season of

120

PRUNING
the year

when

the buds
is

commence
no

to break

even in

climates where there

frost roses will

have a
to

dormant season, and the time the buds begin

break
ities.

will

be the proper time to prune in such

local-

Usually in such climates the dormant season

is

of the rose

the time during which

is,

it

does not get

any water, that

further growth.
in

during the dry season.

With the

return of the rains the dormant plant

commences
no

This
is

refers, of course, to climates

which there

practically

no winter,

i.e.,

frost.

When

the buds begin to push out on

all

the living

wood, the operator can more readily see exactly

how much wood

is

dead and which needs to be

thinned out, and just

how much wood

is

is

living

on

each cane; therefore this

the best time in which

to prune roses in all climates.

In the spring pruning

it

will

sometimes be found

that canes of the weaker varieties have died back

after a very severe winter to a smaller

number
list,

of

buds than above noted or given

these exceptions should be rare.

in

our
If

though

the

wood has
be

died back to any extent you

forced to prune to the
first

will, of necessity,

good bud or eye below the

winter killed portion without reference to the

ber of buds, even
left
if

numis

the cane

is

shorter than that

by the usual system.

121

This information

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

general working rule.

There are some few

varieties

which, on account of their peculiar growth, should

be pruned
thoroughly

differently,

and to cover
in our

this

point

we have noted

main

list

the

num-

ber of eyes to which each variety should be pruned,

the

number

so given referring to the strongest canes;

will, of course,

on the weaker ones you

cut to a less

number
pruning

of eyes.

In order that the rules which we have given for

may

be more thoroughly understood the

system

is

illustrated in Figs. 4

and 5 herewith

given.

The
in

first is

a Hybrid Tea rose which was not pruned

the spring but was allowed to develop.

is

The
it

second

the same plant properly pruned.

Fig. 4

shows the plant photographed after

was

taken from the ground.

it

On stem "A,"

in particular,

will

be noted that none of the lower buds have

pushed but that the top buds are well developed.

This carries out exactly our theory that on a long,

weak stem the sap

will

go to the top buds only.

it

To

properly prune this weakest stem

is

should be

cut off to two buds as

shown

in Fig. 5.
it will

On stem
be noted

"B," which

is

somewhat

stronger,

that the lower buds have pushed, owing to some extent to the fact that this stem
Fig. 5
is

not so long.

shows that we have pruned stem

"B"

to the

third bud,

which

is

on the outside.
122

The

first

bud

Flo. i

HYBRID TEA ROSE, NOT PRUNED

l!CT

ALLOWED TO DEVELOP

SAME ROSE

AS FIG.

PROPERLY PRUNED

PRUNING
is

dormant and does not show

clearly in the illustra-

Cane "C" on Fig. 4 should be pruned in exactly the same way, cut to the third bud on the
tion.

outside,
Fig.

and
is

this is

done

in Fig. 5.

Cane

"D"

in

undoubtedly the one which should be

it

removed, as
in Fig. 5 this

crowds the center of the plant, and

stem has been cut out.

is left

You

will

note

how much more space

"E."

for the balance of the

growth, particularly for the strong lowest shoot of

"E"
is

in Fig.

4 should be cut to the fourth

bud on the

outside,

and

this is

shown

in Fig. 5.
its

"F"

undoubtedly the strongest cane and on

whole length the young shoots have started vigorous spring growth.
in Fig. 5.

You

cut "

F"

to five eyes as

Had

this plant (Fig. 4)

been pruned in

the early spring the

lower buds on

dormant buds on "A" and the "B" and "C" would have been

forced into growth, but as the stems were left long,

the sap went to the top of these weaker growing

canes.
If

cane

and "B," "C," and

smaller canes than

"F" had been somewhat larger, "E" had been as small or

"A," the plant would have been
it

too one-sided and

would have been necessary

to its lower

to

have cut
is

"F" back
;

certainly to the third bud, which

on the outside, possibly

bud

to equalize

the growth but in this instance the three remaining

canes in the center, "B," "C," and "E," are nearly

123

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

as large as

"F," and the cane

"A" by

being cut

back to

its

second eye should throw out strong

all

growths, as the two buds remaining will secure

of the sap of this stalk.

These instructions are given

secure the greatest
rally, if

for general

work to
Natu-

number

of fine blooms.

a person wishes exhibition blooms, such

roses as he could exhibit with a chance of taking a

prize at a rose show,
fied

and he

is

willing to be satis-

with only a few of these,

we would

suggest

after

growth has started and the shoots have broken,

that he again go carefully over his plants and cut

out

all

ing shoots of the

weak growths, keeping only the most promismost vigorous canes. It will
back to two shoots, but with a particularly

generally be necessary, in order to secure this result,

to cut

vigorous and promising growth you

in

may
off

leave more,

which

case,

however, you must cut

the weaker

growths below
first

in other words, following

out our

theory, the fewer buds the

more sap

to each.

The English custom

general rule,
is

for exhibition varieties, as

to wait until the flowers have been

formed and then to cut out such growths as are not

required, mainly because they are not promising,

and

to allow all the vitality contained in the sap to

left.

go to the blooms which are

receiving
all

Such blooms,

the nourishment, tend to be larger and

Hi

PRUNING
more
to

perfect than the average flowers.

However,

they do not surpass the average bloom recommended

any marked degree, and they cut down the numthey entail except for exhibition purposes.
carefully
rules

ber of flowers so greatly that they are not worth the

sacrifice

The bush should be

additional

and thoroughly
given

pruned according to the

cut ought to be

above,

an

and very necessary point being that the

made not
it.

less

than one-quarter of

an inch above the bud and not more than one-half

of

an inch from
is,

The
will

cut should not be straight

across, that

parallel with the ground,

but should

be slanting.

This

keep the water from rotting

out the wood too quickly before the bud starts

and the shoots are established.

a roof on a miniature house.

In other words,
off

one might say that the cut would drain

like

water

The

cut should

be clean.
shears
is

An

ordinary pair of gardening pruning

the best implement for this work.

These

shears must be kept sharp, otherwise they leave rough

edges and bruise the bark, which then will not heal.

The most comfortable way

to

in

which

to

prune

is

have a heavy square

of carpet placed

on the
It is

ground on which one

may

either

sit

or kneel.

impossible to do any great

amount

of pruning unless

some such method is used; to keep the dampness from coming through the carpet should be doubled
125

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

over at least once.

Persons having trouble with

their eyes should be very careful to use their glasses

in this work, as

more minute attention

is

required

than one would think.

apply mainly to a large

The foregoing suggestions amount of pruning, but even

it

where the plants are few

would perhaps be best to

In

employ

this

method, as the operation would certainly

all

be much more comfortable.

pruning a pair of

heavy gloves
cut

will

be found a necessary protection.

is

In the autumn the only pruning necessary

to

down

the bushes so that the fibrous feeding

roots will not be broken

by the thrashing about

of

the tops in the heavy winter winds.

It is quite

easy to cut

down

to

an approximate height

until

the early spring pruning, and

when
to

the plants have

done blooming and the

frost

has set in severely we

would suggest that they be cut

growing kinds and climbers.

an approximate

height of one foot and a half, except in strongest

Do not cut to less. The

if

buds
in a

liable to

break are upper buds, and

forced

warm,

late

autumn

or early spring, after breakkill.

ing they will certainly winter

If left

short there

are not enough buds remaining below to carry out

the scheme of pruning;

if left

longer,

no harm

is

done.

Under pruning
the bloom.

it is is

well to include the cutting of

is

This

a part of rose culture which

usually neither considered nor understood.

It is

PRUNING
not easy to regulate by actual rule but
is
if

the principle
is

understood the proper cutting of roses

a very

easy matter.

In

this,

as in spring pruning, the

method
is

to be

employed depends entirely upon what

off

desired.

Cutting

the blooms insures more.

will

If

they are not cut

new growth
it is

not start so

quickly.

For

this reason

advisable to pinch off

left

any blooms which may have been

varieties

on the
all

plants.

This should be particularly noted with

bedding

which are kept for garden decoration and

If

are not usually cut.

a stem

is left

and the seed

pod forms

it

takes the greater part of the nourishshoot, the sap going to the top as has

ment on any
the greatest

been previously noted.

Nature thus provides

for

amount

of
if

sustenance going to the

seed pod.

By autumn,

blooms are not cut but

pinched, you will have a very

much

larger plant

than

if

the blooms had been cut, and the plant has

perhaps somewhat better foliage.

cutting of flowers
to
is

But with us the

like

a great pleasure and we

have them

in the

house as well as to see them

of our

on the bushes, so that the great majority

blooms are cut and, after the method of pruning

which we have advocated, mostly with long stems.
If this is

what you want you must be a

little

careful

in the cutting of

your stems to leave enough buds

127

below the cut on the shoot from which you are

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

taking your flower to provide other shoots, which
will later in the

season give you more blooms.

On

the stronger varieties in the June blooming season,

on a Hybrid Tea rose or a rose which you expect

to

bloom

further,

you should leave enough buds

to

give shoots for

Therefore in

summer and for autumn bloom. such cuttings we would suggest leaving
varieties three buds, always

never

less

than two buds at the base of the shoot,

and with very strong

seeing that the
If

bud you cut back

to

is

a strong one.

you cut leaving a long stem you may, perhaps,

get

more

flowers but they will not be

will

on such

stal-

wart stems, nor

If

they produce as fine blooms.

you are cutting from a Hybrid Perpetual, or from

will

a rose from which you do not expect to secure more

bloom, to cut to one bud
cutting of blooms, the

be

sufficient.

In this

same

as in pruning,

you can

follow the well-known theory that on a

weak growth

you can cut farther back than on a strong growth.

Approximately on an average growth we would
leave, as

above stated, two buds on the constantlyvarieties.

blooming

In late

fall

cutting

it will

be

unnecessary to leave any buds below the cut as

there will be no

more bloom
frail,

after frost.

In the

weak

kinds, with the

drooping stems, perhaps

you do not wish

all of

the stem cut to remain on

it

your bloom, but you certainly do not wish

to

PRUNING
remain on the plant; therefore cut harder on the

weak growths and afterwards reduce the length of Unless you have the stem to suit your fancy.
hybridized, or wish to try raising seed from chance
fertilization,

you do not need the seed pods or heps

if

to develop,

and

twice a week during the blooming

all

season you pick

old blooms from your plants

you

will

not only keep the beds in better order but

flowers thereafter.

secure

more

Spring pruning as given here applies to roses

after the first year.
all

For the

first

year they should

be cut back to three eyes on good wood and one

This gives the young, unestabto

eye in weak wood.

lished roots less
for

work

do and provides more time

the

them

to prepare for the following year.

list

In pruning varieties not mentioned in our

main work to be done is always to cut out all the dead

wood.
This, of course, also applies to the
list.

Rugosas, Austrian Briars, Chinas and Bourbons

require practically
of

no pruning excepting the removal

tends to the devel-

dead wood and necessary thinning to prevent

If

crowding.

pruned severely

it

opment

of

wood

instead of flowers, especially in the

Austrian Briar.

To go over the main points, the theories which we have tried to bring out in this chapter are: prune when the new growth can be plainly noted;

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

for

medium

fine

blooms prune the strong

five

varieties

on the strongest canes to

and

six eyes;

weaker

canes to a smaller number.

ties

On

the weaker varie-

prune to three and four eyes on the strong canes;

ones.
If

two and three eyes on the weaker

you wish

more blooms and do not care

desiring the bushes to be
tion,

so

much

for quality,

more
far

of a

garden decorathe canes.

If

do not prune quite so

down

you want only a few exhibition blooms, cut harder,

and, later in the season, thin out unnecessary and

unpromising growths.

For

all

plants cut out dead

wood. In cutting roses during the spring and summer

never leave
less

than two eyes on any stem which

you

cut.

This gives you summer and autumn

blooms.

On

the very strongest varieties cut to

cut to a strong eye.

three eyes

always
is

Be

sure

that your cut

a clean one and slanting, and from

one-quarter to one-half an inch above the bud.

Always cut to outside buds, unless

ticular reason

for

some parin

you wish to have the plant grow

some other
In
all

direction.

pruning remember the working rule and so

accomplish your purpose; the fewer buds you leave

to break the

more sap they

will receive,

and the

more buds you leave the smaller amount of sap each one will get, and also that the buds near the
base

may

not break.
ISO

IX

CULTIVATION
If you have followed the directions given in this

book

for

location,

preparation of bed,

ordering,
is

planting and pruning, your really hard work

over

and the most pleasant part

actual culture of the rose
is

is

before you.

The

very easy and agreeable.

Beyond a little spring and autumn care, some spraying and the weeding of the beds, there is not much work to be done. In the spring, after the
frost is out of the ground,
off

you should have taken

it

the covering of your bed, whether

be

litter or

only leaves.

The

little

mounds should now be raked

and
if

down

so that the bed

litter

is level,

your roses were

it,

covered with
the straw,
that
is left

the greater part of

especially

should be removed, and the manure should be forked into the bed; but not
After the roses

to the extent of disturbing the roots.

are pruned, the next thing which should

occupy

your attention
In the bed

is

the feeding of the plants in order

to give a particularly fine growth.

itself,

of course,

you have enough

manure
years,

to furnish the roots with food for

many

but to secure the best results you should

131

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

also feed the roots

from the surface.

Wood

ashes

and bone meal may be alternately forked into the

bed after growth has begun.
liquid

Another good food

is

manure water in the proportion of half a bushel of manure to a barrel of water "weak and

often"

is

the old gardener's recipe.

is

Blood diluted with water

Frederick

sometimes used.

Mr.

W.

Taylor used this alternately with

his recipe
is

manure water;
settle,

five

pounds

of blood to

a barrel of water. After mixing, permit the blood to then draw

off

the greater part of the water;

use the same blood in the same manner twice again,

five

pounds making three mixtures.

In April or

May

the shoots should begin to grow,

will

and very shortly the buds themselves

appear

and gradually turn into blooms.

ties,

On
is

certain varie-

too few unfortunately, there

only one ter-

minal bud on each growth; on a great

find small

many you

will

buds appearing

close to the larger ones;

these should be gone over

and carefully removed

if

you wish the

will

finest

blooms, as naturally they take

a certain amount of sustenance, and the main bloom

develop better and will be of finer quality
all
if it

receives

the nourishment.

It does not take very

all

long to go over your plants and disbud

these

smaller flower buds, and unless you wish nothing

but a mass of color in your beds our advice

132

is

to


CULTIVATION
remove them.

The

easiest

way

is

to pull

carefully with the

thumb and

forefinger,

them and

off

in

doing so see that you do not take hold of anything

but the bud to be removed.

quickly done.

This can be easily and

You
Green

will

now

find that all

your young buds and

light green insects

leaves are covered with

Flies or Aphides,

little,

which are

common

pests in

rose gardens.

There

is

a very effective remedy for check their future develop-

them which
ment;

will greatly

this is to
oil

spray with a solution of tobacco stems

and whale

soap.

The proportions which we have

found to be best are as follows: One pound of tobacco

stems to a bucket of water, to which add an ounce of

whale

oil

soap, first dissolved in a small quantity of

It will take

hot water.
to dissolve.

about three hours for this

be added to the tobacco
to

It should then
is

mixture.

This

an easy preparation
soap

remember:

one bucket of water, one pound of tobacco stems and one ounce of the whale
articles
oil
;

the two latter-named

can be readily secured at any seed store.* The

this

Aphides are quickly destroyed with

spray and
is

a gallon of the mixture by careful application

*

Doctor H. A. Service, the Zoologist of the State of Pennsylvania, of one ounce of Blackleaf No. 40 with five This is more convenient than the infusion with tobacco stems and gives the same result. It may be bought at seed stores. We would suggest adding 7'A oz. of soft soap to the above

recommends a mixture
gallons of water.

so that the spray will adhere to the foliage.

133

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

enough for from
fifteen to twenty-five rose plants;

by applying with an ordinary whisk broom it will take care of fifty plants and can be done as well,
but
it

requires

more time

in applying than with in succession.

the sprayer.

Spray three days

By this
ing.

time the ground will naturally need weeddetails

It

seems hardly necessary to go into

regarding the proper method.

hoe, as the gardener terms
it,

An

ordinary scratch

will quickly

take out

the weeds and also destroy

up.

some

of those not yet

roots.

Care must be taken not to hurt the rose

is

This

really a very simple operation,

and any

if you do not care to do it Your roses are now in bloom and you are cutting them carefully and no doubt having much pleasure in seeing them about the house and giving them to visitors. As the days become warmer and the ground drier you must take more care of the plants. You should keep the earth broken up in the beds and not

gardener can do this

yourself.

permit
if

it

to

form a hard cake or

crust, as it will

do

left

alone.

This breaking up should be done

In addition to this you must consider
if

twice a week.

feeding your roses further best blooms.

you want the very

For

this

purpose ordinary manure

is

water, as described above,

the best possible food

and perhaps

easiest to secure in

most

places.

When


CULTIVATION
the roses are fully formed, withhold

manure water
Roses

until after the first crop, apply again as each suc-

ceeding crop of buds commences to develop.

need a slight rest between crops.

If

you have

placed the blanket of peat moss on your beds, which

was recommended
be very
little

in a former chapter, there will

weeding and no breaking up of dried

earth necessary and the moisture should be well

conserved in your beds.

We

recommend that
it

this

covering be put on and believe that

labor

will save

and greatly aid the growth

of the plant

by

keeping the ground at a

ture than
it

much more even temperawould be otherwise. The first of May

for the peat moss.
if

would seem about the proper time

Watering
is

necessary in very dry weather

your ground becomes thoroughly baked, but you

should never water your plants late in the day.

The
be

plants should go to sleep with dry foliage, otherwise

mildew

will

develop.

Roses

should

always

watered early in the morning before the temperature

rises

it is

unnatural to water them during heat

they are accustomed to cool temperature with rain.

Mildew is a disease of the leaves which appears when there is too much moisture. The use of
peat moss will
unnecessary.

render watering to some extent

One other plague

for

which you must watch

is

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

the rose slug, which chews the leaves.

This pest

must be destroyed by a stronger preparation than tobacco leaves, as it is very hardy and not as quickly
disposed of as the
little

considered a good remedy and

efficiency.

It also

Lemon oil is we have proved its can be taken care of by mixing

green bug.

whale

oil

soap, already referred to,

and water,

in the

proportion of about an ounce to a gallon of water.

The very
hellebore.

best remedy, however,

is

powdered white

Make

a solution of two tablespoonfuls

in a bucket of boiling water,

and

after it has cooled

apply

it

with a whisk broom under the leaves.

really all that are necessary

These directions are

to raise roses successfully, except that

you must
Manetti or

watch carefully
other stock,

for

any sprouts

of the

on which the roses themselves are

budded or

grafted.

As explained

in the chapter

on

propagation, these shoots are a lighter-colored green

than the average foliage of

roses,

and have seven

leaves instead of three or five, in addition to which

the
will

wood

itself is

covered with
of these,

little prickles.

You

not find

many
will

though after looking

will believe that

for a time

and not seeing any you

not appear at
will

they probably

all,

when suddenly
tall,

some morning you

light green shoot

be surprised to find a

on the outside of one of your rose

bushes which you have heretofore not noticed.

The

CULTIVATION
cutting off of this shoot from the root itself
is

the

proper remedy for this

plant.

enemy to the growth

of

your

Rose bugs or
to pick

beetles are really the worst pests

which you have to endure.

The only

cure has been

by hand, dropping them

into kerosene.

Recently some growers claim success with the following kerosene

emulsion:

%
2

lb. (202)

hard soap.
oil.

1 qt. water.
qts.

kerosene

oil. Shake 5 becomes a creamy mass. Use 1 qt. emulsion to 6 qts. water. Spray roses from May 1st to June 15th every week, also spray ground under rose bushes. For larger quantities: }i lb. hard soap.

Dissolve soap in hot water and while hot add the

it

to 10 minutes in jug until

1 gallon water.

2 gallons kerosene

oil

shake as before.
be found a
list

Use 3

gallons emulsion to 17 gallons water.

At the end

of this chapter will

of

recipes for the diseases of roses.

So your plants work on through the hotter part

summer and now towards its close the nights commence to become cooler and the days are still quite warm; the air itself is very moist and humid.
of the

This occurs usually in the latter part of August,

and

this

change from eighty degrees or more in the

less in

daytime to sixty degrees or which the rose

also great

the night

is

one
is

foliage does not like.

is

When

there

humidity mildew

liable to occur.

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

good remedy
in
is

grape dust, which can be obtained

any seed

store.

The

best

remedy

is

a solution

of sulphide of potassium, one-quarter of

an ounce to
ounce of
boiled

a gallon of water, to which add one and one-half

ounces of

common

soft soap or one-half

Fels-Naphtha soap.

The soap should be

and
if

before being added to the solution.

early in the morning,

Always spray

mildew has already

appeared, spray early in the morning after each

heavy

rain.
is

Black spot

another disease which sometimes

of the

comes towards the end

experienced
it

summer.

We

have

mostly in potted greenhouse plants

roses

and we advise against planting

each time
If
|

from

pots, as

we have done
this

so black spot has resulted.

we

plant

only dormant field-grown stock

disease.

we
off

do not have

Dr.

Huey

concurs in

this opinion and, as

a cure, advocates picking

such leaves as are affected as soon as they appear.

Last year
fair

we used a formaldehyde
but black spot
is

solution with
difficult

success,

most

to

eradicate.

The "American

Florist," in its issue of

June

14,

1914, has a very interesting article on black spot

treatment, taken from publications of the National

Rose Society

of

England.

The main

point in the

article is that black spot is

a fungous disease which

invades the living tissues of the plant and there

reproduces
itself

by means
13S

of spores

on the

leaves.

CULTIVATION
To combat
and
is

the disease formaldehyde

to

is

suggested

supposed

be absorbed by the tissues of

kill

the plant and to

the spores on the

it is

leaves.

This article further states that

considered

advisable to use the formaldehyde as a spray not

only on the leaves and stems, but also to have the

solution

reach

the

plant
it is

through

the

soil.

To

accomplish this result

of a

advised that "the cool

the
soil
if

calm evening

in

summer when

had been

previously loosened,

and moistened

necessary,

would be
it is

ideal."

In the treatment referred to above

necessary, in order to secure the proper results,

to spray as soon as the buds begin to open early in

the spring, and for this early spraying two tablespoonfuls of commercial formaldehyde are diluted
in a gallon of water; for later spraying

when the
used,
i.e.,

plant

is

in full

growth one-half strength

of

is

one tablespoonful to a gallon

water,

and the

weaker spray used at intervals of a week or ten days

through
the

growing season.

Where black spot

it

has gained a firm hold on the plants,

is

also

advocated that a solution of double strength be used

in February.

As the

nights

become

still

colder your blooms

will, of course,

take longer to develop and you can-

not expect as
the roses
still

much from your bushes; nevertheless make a fight to give you flowers and
139

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

you
ber.
will nearly

always be able to pick them from

the late bloomers until about the middle of

Novem-

We have

picked roses until Thanksgiving, and

later.

during the past year even

to the last of

From

the middle

November

is

the time roses should be

given proper winter protection.

The
to cut

first

thing to do with
to

all

ordinary bushes

is

them down
half.

an approximate height

of a foot

and a

They

will nearly all die

down
is

to this
off

height or below in any event, and

by cutting

the

bushy tops damage by high wind

prevented.

The peat moss should

at this time be

removed and
so

saved for the following spring.

The matter
It consists of

of hilling

up has been

noted, but

is

important that we

will give the description again.

heaping the ground up around the

bush.

It is well to
this

add some top

soil to

the bed

and hoe

up

in a little

mound around each

plant

to a height not less than six inches

level.

above the bed

of the

With the Hybrid Perpetuals and the very hardiest Hybrid Teas this hilling up is not really

necessary, but there are very

ties

many

beautiful varie-

which can be brought through the winter by

this

method

only.

After the roses are hilled up, wait until the ground
freezes before placing the litter
140

on the beds.

No

CULTIVATION
insects or

mice

will

then inhabit

it

during the winter

and

injure the green

is

wood

of the canes.

Another
little

good way

to

fill

the spaces between the

leaves or

mounds with autumn

blowing away.
edly adds

meadow

hay, with

enough earth spread over the top to keep them from

This
is

an easy method and undoubt-

warmth

to the beds.
is

After the winter

litter

over

it is

better to

remove the

or leaves too early rather than too late, be-

cause they will rapidly heat up under the influence

of the

warm

spring sun and the buds of the rose

canes will be forced into breaking too early,

when

any

later

heavy

frost will severely kill

back the

young shoots
the frost

so started

by the

heat.

It is therefore

advisable to take this covering from the roses

is

when

out of the ground and before the heat of

the sun becomes great and lasting.

Standard roses should be most carefully protected.

We

have

lost

during the winter about twenty per

cent, of our plants; at best

cent, lost has
est varieties,

from ten to twenty per

been our average of these in the strongeven when winter protection was given.

We

believe that
if

you

will

not have ten per cent,

of deaths

you give these very attractive standards

proper winter protection.

a rough box

made

of boards

Try placing around them and filling it with earth,

covering well above the junction of the strong

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

growing stalk with the rose
itself.

Mr. Frederick
box at
least

W. Taylor recommends making

two
feet square,

this

and

filling it

with tightly packed

to the top
of

earth from the ground

level

the

plant above the bud.

Another good method often

entire plant after care-

used

is

to

bend down the

the roots
it

fully loosening

and to place

it

in

trench and cover

heavily with earth.

We

have

tried protecting standards with old pieces of carpet,

carefully

wrapped around the upper part

of the

plants only, but find that the

method
is

of actually

encasing the entire plant with earth

the best.

Most Wichuraiana and other climbers will come through the winter well by themselves. Others, however, winter kill more or less, not enough to kill the plant itself but to destroy parts of the main stems. The Wichuraiana climbers bloom upon the wood of the preceding year, and if such wood is lacking and the rose has to throw up new shoots there will be no bloom. If the main shoots are killed
back the few existing blooms will be low down, so that in the far north it would be well to bend down
the canes and protect
of earth.

them with the usual blanket

Ordinarily where climbers are protected

from the north and particularly the northwest winds,

it

really

is

not necessary to give them any other

it

protection; but

does not take very long to bend

CULTIVATION
down the long trailing branches carefully and cover them with earth. This should especially be done in
the case of climbing Hybrid Teas, as these
kill

back

very

much more than

the other climbers.

RECIPES FOR THE DISEASES OF ROSES

Below we quote
authorities,

extracts from the best

known

giving their recipes for mildew, black

spot, rust, etc.

(Page 211). H. H. Thomas suggests using a mixture for mildew of equal parts of fine quicklime and sulphur dusted on the affected areas. "Roses, Their History, Development, and Culture" (Page Pemberton advocates the same dusting and also gives the 303)
.

"The Rose Book"

following: 1 lb. flowers of sulphur, 1 lb. powdered quicklime. Add sufficient water to form a paste. Add one gallon of cold water. Boil for twenty minutes and when cool pour off the liquid and spray at the rate of half a pint of the above mixture to six gallons of water. (Page 303). Pemberton recommends 1 lb- of Calvert's carbolic l Boft soap in l /i quarts of water a pailful; spray with one part of mixture to three parts of soft water, and he adds, "this is

the remedy we apply." "Roses and Rose Growing" (The Macmillan Co.), (Pages 137138). Miss Kingslet advocates flowers of sulphur for mildew, distributed by a pair of powder bellows, and suggests applying
before mildew appears. She uses Quassia Chips for Aphis, and recommends picking by hand for caterpillars. (Page 89). Ellw anger's recipe for mildew is sulphur and soot, applied while the dew is on the plants so that it will adhere. "Roses" (Page 52). The Garden Library of Doubleday, Page & Company suggests for black spot carbonate of copper compound, using five ounces of copper compound to three quarts of ammonia and sixty gallons of water. The spraying should be done once a week, using a hose with a nozzle that gives a fine spray. "Pictorial Practical Rose Growing" (Pages 80-84). Wright does not mention black spot, but our understanding of the reference made to orange fungus or red rust is that it develops into black rust, possibly the same as the well-known black spot. This article is so clear and appeals to us so strongly that we quote it verbatim, and will try the recipes given if troubled in the future. 143

"The Rose"

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

"When the experienced rose grower observes orange-yellow spots on the leaves of his plants in early summer, he knows that he sees the advance guard of the fungoid disease known variously as orange fungus and red rust. "Some suppose these to be separate diseases; on the contrary they are separate stages in the triune life-cycle of disease, Phragmidium subcorticatum. The first, or JScidium, stage gives the orange fungus; the second, or Uredo, stage gives the red rust; the third, or Teleuto, stage gives a black rust. "Where the orange fungus has obtained a strong hold, and has caused trouble for several successive years, it cannot be exterminated at a single attempt. Repeated attacks on it must be made. Measures may begin by spraying the bushes thoroughly in the spring, before growth starts, with Bordeaux mixture. "Bordeaux Mixture. To prepare Bordeaux mixture take 1]/2 lb. of sulphate of copper (bluestone), dissolve in a little hot water; IY2 lb. of freshly burned lime, dissolve in cold water; 1 lb. of agricultural treacle, 1 lb. of soft soap. Pour together when cool; stir the treacle or soft soap well in and make up to twenty-five gallons with water. "When the first signs of the disease appear in summer, spray with carbarn, repeating if necessary. The solution should reach the under as well as the upper side of the leaves. "To prepare carbam, take 1 ounce of carbonate of copper, J^ pint of liquid ammonia. Dissolve the carbonate of copper in the ammonia and mix with ten gallons of water."

One point
is

that

all

authorities

seem
all

to agree

upon
fallen

the picking and burning of

dead and

leaves affected

by black

spot.

During 1915 there has been a new pest

larvae

the
is

of

the white tussock moth; this insect

greenish

brown with yellow markings,

like

a small

caterpillar.

At

first it is less
it

than one-quarter inch

the leaves.

but grows rapidly as

picking
is

eats

Hand

the safest remedy.

X
SOME GENERAL INFORMATION AND HINTS ON HYBRIDIZATION
By
this

time the reader should have gained a

practical idea of

how
If

to

make

a small rose garden

and care

for

it.

he wishes to go into the various

features of rose culture

more thoroughly, the books

give

we have

suggested will

him the necessary

information.

We

have treated more especially of

the small rose garden for the average American

home; we have not considered formal gardens, nor

how

to cultivate the various weaker varieties of

roses to

any

extent.
1

In the roses marked numbers

and 2 under
to give only

heading "List"
those varieties

we have been careful which we know will

of

succeed well In the

without any great care or special protection.

American climate

which we write, the latitude of

it is

the Middle Atlantic States,

not possible to grow

in

some
there
all of

of the roses

which succeed so wonderfully

the south of England and in France.

is

However,

a vast area in the United States in which

those

more

delicate roses

may

be successfully

grown, more particularly in the southeast and south-

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

west; in fact in every part of our great country

where there

is

little

frost

all

of these wonderful

Teas and Climbing Teas and Noisettes

successfully cultivated.
in that section of the

may

be
is

Therefore,

if

your home

country we strongly advise

in

you

to try all roses

list

marked "B" and "C"

our

main

under the heading "Hardiness," but we

it

do not believe

would pay you to grow Hybrid

Perpetuals to any extent except in a large garden

or collection.

Although we can recommend these

to intimate that they are
list.

more

delicate roses for the southern climate referred

to above,

we do not wish

better than the Hybrid Teas of our well-tried

These should succeed as well as

in our

own
is

climate.

The
more

point that

we

desire to bring out

that the

delicate roses can be successfully cultivated

frost belt.

below the

In the northern part of our

is

country, where the winter

very cold and severe

and the temperature remains considerably below

zero for long periods, roses

must be given every

Hybrid
will

protection to succeed; in that part north of Boston,

for instance, only the very hardiest of the

Teas,

Hybrid Perpetuals and Wichuraianas

stand the winter out-of-doors, and they must be

given even more thorough winter protection than
is

advised for our Middle Atlantic climate.

except the very coldest parts of our climate
146
it

In

all

would

GENERAL INFORMATION
be feasible to grow the hardiest roses by covering

them with a deep

layer of

soil,

or

by transplanting
If

in the winter to boxes placed indoors.

one really

loves roses this extra trouble

is

well worth while.

is

In this colder climate the best method

that roses

be grown in good-sized pots or boxes, and in the

autumn when

frost

comes the plants be moved

not reach them.

in

their flower pots or

boxes to a cellar or building

where extreme cold

of a cellar with

will

In the case

an earthen floor the pots can be placed

beneath the surface.

during the winter
ings.
is

The only

thing

necessary

to give the plants several water-

In the spring the rose pots or boxes should be

carried out

and again placed beneath the surface

old bed

of in

the
size

soil in their

and as the rose increases

a larger pot must be provided.

While we have
confident that

never tried this plan ourselves

we
is

feel

even in an extreme climate

it

perfectly feasible
of the

and could be carried out

States.
of
St.

in

any part

United

We know

of roses being

grown on the Gulf

Lawrence where the temperature reaches

forty degrees below zero; they were protected during

winter

by the device
filled

of covering each

bush with a

small keg,

with earth.

The Hybrid Perpetuals

results.

did best in this locality; even the strongest of the

Hybrid Teas

tried

gave poor
of the

In our

own

more moderate climate

Middle Atlantic States

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

west; in fact in every part of our great country

where there

is

little

frost all

of these wonderful

Teas and Climbing Teas and Noisettes

successfully cultivated.

may

be
is

Therefore,

if

your home

in that section of the country

we

strongly advise
in our

you to try
main
list

all

roses

marked

"B" and "C"

under the heading "Hardiness," but we

it

do not believe

would pay you to grow Hybrid

Perpetuals to any extent except in a large garden

or collection.

Although we can recommend these

to intimate that they are
list.

more

delicate roses for the southern climate referred

to above,

we do not wish

better than the Hybrid Teas of our well-tried

These should succeed as well as

in

our

own
is

climate.

The
more

point that

we

desire to bring out

that the

delicate roses can be successfully cultivated

belt.

below the frost

In the northern part of our

is

country, where the winter

very cold and severe

and the temperature remains considerably below

zero for long periods, roses

must be given every

Hybrid
will

protection to succeed; in that part north of Boston,

for instance, only the very hardiest of the

Teas,

Hybrid Perpetuals and Wichuraianas

stand the winter out-of-doors, and they must be

given even more thorough winter protection than
is

advised for our Middle Atlantic climate.

except the very coldest parts of our climate
it

In

all

would

GENERAL INFORMATION
be feasible to grow the hardiest roses by covering

them with a deep layer

of soil, or

by transplanting
If

in the winter to boxes placed indoors.

one really

loves roses this extra trouble

is

well worth while.

is

In this colder climate the best method

that roses

be grown in good-sized pots or boxes, and in the

autumn when

frost

comes the plants be moved

not reach them.

in

their flower pots or

boxes to a cellar or building

where extreme cold

of a cellar with

will

In the case

an earthen floor the pots can be placed

beneath the surface.

during the winter
ings.
is

The only thing necessary

to give the plants several water-

In the spring the rose pots or boxes should be

carried out

and again placed beneath the surface

old bed

of
in

the

soil in their

and as the rose increases

size a larger

pot must be provided.

While we have
that

never tried this plan ourselves

we

feel confident

even in an extreme climate

it is

perfectly feasible
of the

and could be carried out

States.
of
St.

in

any part

United

We know

of roses being

grown on the Gulf

Lawrence where the temperature reaches

forty degrees below zero; they were protected during

winter by the device of covering each bush with a

small keg,
filled

with earth.

The Hybrid Perpetuals

results.

did best in this locality; even the strongest of the

Hybrid Teas

tried

gave poor
of the

In our own

more moderate climate

Middle Atlantic States

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

and
to
in

approximate temperatures
of the

it

would be possible

grow many

more

delicate roses with the

heaviest winter protection, and

this

we propose

to try

experiment next year.

of the best

One

means
is

of protecting roses

from

the cold and the wind

It is expensive,

a good brick or stone wall.

will

but even a low wall

make

it

possible to

grow the smaller Teas, and a four-foot

six or eight-foot

wall would be of great use in protecting low bushes

from the heavy winds, while with a

wall
it

would be possible to care

for the wonderfully

blooming Climbing Teas.

is

The tender Cherokee

ideal exposure

rose

being successfully grown near Philadelphia on the

south side of a wall.

The

would be

a wall facing the south or southeast and, as the

winter approaches,
the climbers could be taken

down from

their fastenings

on the wall and covered

over with earth and the smaller roses cut back and
heavily covered.

In an ideal rose garden, with such

it,

a wall completely surrounding

there would be a

great opportunity not only for the proper growing

of

many

of

these very beautiful varieties which

otherwise one cannot hope to raise, but by utilizing

both sides of the wall

it

also

would be possible to

bring roses into bloom at different times.

On

the

north side only the very hardiest of the climbing

roses

would do at

all well. 148

Crimson Rambler and

GENERAL INFORMATION
Wichuraianas would be roses to try on such an
exposure,

and

if

four such roses of the

same variety

were planted on four different exposures they would

come

into

bloom at various

times, thus lengthening

the period of bloom.

A
of

difference in soil
to

and

situation affects the time

bloom

some

extent.

north slope will come

in slightly later

than a southern exposure; but in

colder sections,

and particularly

in sections
is

where

late frost is liable to occur after

growth

started, a

north slope

is

a safe exposure.

In such a situation
it

the early spring sun will not reach the roses as

would on a southern

slope,

and they

will

not be

forced into growth only to be killed back afterwards

by the
ground

late frosts.
will

It

has been well proven that high

not have as

much

frost as low, well-

sheltered ground, for in the latter the frost will

settle in the late spring

and cause damage, whereas

air will

on the high ground the

will

have

free access

and
in

not allow the frost to remain, as

it

seems to do

low-lying ground.

Proximity to the ocean or any large body of water

gives a

more even temperature than

is

found in

inland sections.

On
for a

Buzzard's Bay, Massachusetts,

where we lived

number

of years,

we were very

successful with our

Hybrid Teas, and even with

some

of the Teas.

The

winters were
149

much

colder

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

there than farther south in Philadelphia where

now
there

reside,

but with proper and heavy

hilling

we up
and

was a very small percentage

cool,

of deaths,

owing to the

moist climate, the blooms were

particularly fine.

We

remember

especially that the

Souvenir du Pierre Notting of the Buzzard

trict

Bay

dis-

was a much superior rose

of

to the one

grown near

Philadelphia.

However, since that time,

after experi-

menting with various roses

about the same growth

and bloom as Souvenir du Pierre Notting, we have

discovered that Alex. Hill Gray
it,

is

much

superior to

being the same type but a better grower, with

perfect foliage

more

and bloom.

For these reasons

we have
There

replaced Souvenir du Pierre Notting with

Alex. Hill Gray.

is

a very interesting
Chicago published
in

list

of roses for the to

locality of

in

"How

Make a

Flower Garden,"

which Mr. W. C. Egan gives

Jackson Park, Chicago.

his experience with roses near

From
his

the

list

which he

selects it

would seem that

the hardiest Hybrid Teas would do well there, as

article

included with the Hybrid Perpetuals

several

Hybrid Teas and Teas which are not among

varieties.

our hardiest

On

the Pacific Coast roses do wonderfully well.

In Santa Barbara, California, they come into bloom

before Christmas, and the growing season there be-

FIRST BLOOM

ON HYBRID TEA SEEDLINGAT SIX WEEKS

GENERAL INFORMATION
gins after the period of

the East would

call early

summer drought; what we in autumn is, in reality, spring

Farther north on the Pacific

in southern California.

Coast we have friends who advise that roses are most

successful with them,

and no doubt
to

roses in our

list

which are marked

"B" and "C"

kill

as to hardiness

would probably not winter

any

extent, al-

though we, naturally, more strongly recommend the

roses in our set of sixteen chosen varieties.

HINTS ON HYBRIDIZATION
It

would hardly seem that

this chapter will

be

complete without further information on the most

interesting part of rose growing, that
tion to secure
is,

hybridiza-

new

varieties.

The books which we

will take

have noted

in the chapter

on propagation

the reader very thoroughly through this most fascinating subject,

and they should be secured by

to attempt such work.

any one who proposes

We

have been making experiments with seedlings

for

and with hybridizing

interesting

some time

past.

It will

be found by the person who wishes to have some

work

for the winter

and who can give up

part of his greenhouse, that a great deal

may

be

accomplished even in a limited space.

conserva-

tory would also give one an opportunity to

interesting experiments.

make

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

The Hybrid Tea
list,

with the addition of Pernet-

Ducher's Pernetiana, makes this section of outdoor

roses very complete, but there
to
is still

a large

field

work upon and particularly in the climbing section.

one who can breed a hardy seedling climber
will

Any

which

bloom

reliably

from

frost to frost will

be

giving the rose world a most important addition.

By

securing a few potted plants in the early

autumn

quite a

number

of crosses could be
is

made, although

the chances of securing what

desired

would not

be as great as
to experiment.

if

one had more plants with which

During the past season we have been most successful with all our hybridizing

and

therefore one

or two hints

may

be of use to any one deciding to

undertake such a task.

As most
fertilized

of the
its

books

state,

a rose

will

become

with

own

pollen

more quickly than by

the pollen of any other rose.

success
is

The main

point for
is

to

watch most carefully the rose which

to be bred so that before the pollen

becomes ripe
It
is

the anthers and stamens

may

be removed.
is

very easy to
will

tell

when the
and
if

pollen

ripe because

it

then drop in small yellow particles upon the

one's finger
is

petals of the rose,

rubbed across

the anthers the yellow dust will at once be noticed.

Our procedure has been

to pluck off the petals of

3E

WITH PETALS REMOVED, SHOWING THE STAMENS AND ANTHERS WHICH BEAR THE POLLEN

ROSE AS FIG.

6 WITH MOST OF STAMENS AND ANTHERS REMOVED, SHOWING THE STYLES AND PISTILSTHE FEMALE ORGANS

GENERAL INFORMATION
the selected rose before the pollen reaches this stage.

After the petals have been removed a small pair of

scissors should

be used to cut

off

the anthers.

Our

method has been to have a helper hold a piece of paper on which most of the stamens and the anthers and their pollen will be caught, and as we cut them
off

we

turn the rose and only cut the stamens from

the under side, thus precluding any possibility of the

immature pollen reaching the pistils. As the stamens are cut off we generally find that some few of them will be bent over and not yet fully developed,

and these should be carefully severed from the plant

because later on they
will

be dangerous to the experi-

ment.

The

pollen contained on the anthers which

off
if

you have cut

to hybridize.

kept in the sun

will

be developed

and can be used on any other flower which you care

Having prepared the seed parent or

female flower, you must

now

secure the pollen from

the other parent selected.

If

you do not
will

desire to

use the other plant from which you purpose taking the pollen for a seed parent,
to secure the pollen as
it

be unnecessary

above suggested, but the

whole flower

may

be cut and the pollen should be

active to have the experiment a success.

All authorities

seem to agree with our experience

is

that a bright,
roses, as in

warm day

the best on which to breed

damp, cloudy weather the pollen does not

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

seem
there
active.

When

the pollen

is

falling

from the

anthers in the small, yellow dust, just mentioned,

is little

doubt that your rose

will

be properly

fertilized, it

being only necessary to shake the pollen

the rose selected as a seed parent

on to the

pistils of

for the hybridizing to

be complete.

If

you

desire to

use the rose you have selected as pollen bearer also

as a seed parent,
it

you must remove the pollen from

it will it is

as suggested above, otherwise

become

fer-

tilized

by

its

own

pollen.

Perhaps

safer to

be

sure of each experiment as one progresses; therefore

it is

well to cut off the anthers before the pollen

for

becomes ripe and then, cutting the rose selected

the other parent, dust
selected.
its

pollen on the seed parent

We

have found that practically

all of

the roses

we have

hybridized have become good, healthy seed

this

pods and have contained seeds;

attribute to the fact that

success

we

we have always used

great

care

and have never

tried to hybridize except with

active pollen.

After roses have been hybridized you have nothing

to

do but allow the seed pods to develop, and when

the weather becomes

warm

in late spring or early

summer take

the plants from the greenhouse or

soil

conservatory and plant the pots in

to enable the heps to

out-of-doors

mature properly.

In order to

Fm.

SEED POD ON A HYBRID TEA ROSE WHICH HAS BEEN HYBRIDIZED

GENERAL INFORMATION
protect seed pods from birds or other interference
it is

advisable to cover

them both on the

carefully

sides

and

tops with wire netting.

seeds

Towards early autumn the

from the heps

should be taken
lot

and planted, each

others.

being kept separate from the

Our experience has been that probably

seeds a
little

in

mature
or or

rose plant will sprout in a

thereabouts.

Sometimes

it

will

month take two months

care,

even longer, but with greenhouse

bottom

heat,

and

carefully-selected soil for germination of the

seed a

month and a

half will witness the appearance

in the course of another
will

certainly of
six

some plants;

weeks very small blooms

appear on some

few of them, though not with the climbers.

It is

our understanding that the commercial firms

varieties of outdoor roses at

who grow new

once bud

or graft on Manetti or Briar stocks to propagate the

wood, but where a person had only a few seedlings,

the

method

of inarching

would seem to us another

practical

way

to secure quick results indoors.

"Commercial Rose Culture," by Eber Holmes,

contains a very interesting article, with illustrations,
of this

method.

It

mentions that the Department

of Agriculture,

Washington, D.C., Bulletin No. 202,

Bureau
is

of Plant Industry,

Mr. George W.
is

Oliver,

the source from which the information

155

taken.

OUTDOOR ROSE GROWING

This operation
is

very quick, and

is

supposed to

be even more rapid than securing average blooms

from cuttings; to learn

it,

the "Nursery Book,"

by

Mr. L. H. Bailey, previously

all

referred to, will give

the information required and should be used with

the book

by Holmes

just mentioned.

During the
with the
breeding

winter of 1914-15,

propagation of

we have experimented new varieties of our own

and have found inarching

to be rather difficult with

young

seedlings.

As a

rule inside grafting

is

not done the latter part

of the winter, the sun being too hot

and preventing

the best results being attained.

Our seeds are not

planted until

fall

and the resulting seedlings have

is

not sufficient wood for grafting until the season

too late.

Briar as a stock

is

not used in indoor work, as

during the winter

it

"goes to sleep."
of the opinion that for

For these reasons we are

flora or

general practice budding on the Japanese Multi-

Manetti

will give the best ultimate results.

Seedlings of Wichuraiana, of

Rugosa and
their

of sorts

which grow especially well on

first

own

roots should

be tested on their own roots.

inside test,

For a temporary
blooming plants
will

budding on strong
results.

be found to give quick

INDEX
Beds, location and preparation,

Admiral Dewey rose, 36 Aimee Coehet rose, 3G Alex. Hill Gray rose, 50, 150
All-around best roses, 41, 50, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 59, 60, 61, 65
Aphides, or green flies, 133 Alpina roses, propagation of, by
suckers, 17

86
soil, soils, 89,

94
sq.

Belle Siebrecht rose, 37

Best all-round roses, 41

Betty rose, 50 Best 16, No. 15 Black spot, cure for, 138, 144 Blanc Double de Coubert rose,
51

American growers, advantages

of buying from, 100

Annie Besant rose, 50 Antoine Revoire rose, 36, 50,

108, 109

Blanche Frowein rose, 79 Blanks, forms for, 104 Blood as a fertilizer, 132

Best

16,

No. 3

Bone meal, 111, 132 Bourbon Perpetual rose, 31

Breeding new varieties, 30 methods kept secret, 35
table of

Ards Bover rose, 73 Arthur R. Goodwin rose, 50 Ashes as a fertilizer, 132

main

varieties, 31

Autumn
103

planting,

advantage,

Brenda

rose, 51

Briar stocks for budding, 19,

Aviateur Bleriot rose, 77

155
for grafting, 24

B
Banksian rose, 80 Bardou Job rose, 50 Baroness Rothschild rose, 50 Beaute Inconstante rose, 50
Beds, care
of,

Bridesmaid

rose,

36

British Queen rose, 51

Budded

roses, 20, 22, 23, 99

advantages
Budding,
18, 19

of, 21,

22

objections to, 20

113

Buds, small, removal

of,

132

composition, 93

design

suggestions,

Bugs or
106,

beetles, 137

108
drainage, 93
finished, 94

Camoens

rose,

sport

(Ecarlate), 26
planting, 96

for

autumn

Captain Hayward rose, 51

157

INDEX
Caroline Testout rose, 36, 51, 74, 80
Ceoile Brunner, climbing, 7G

Cultivation, 131 Cutting of flowers, 127 Cutting off bushy tops in late

Cecile Custers rose, 70

Cfiline Forestier rose,

autumn, 140
Cuttings, 15, 17, 21
C.

Characteristics
roses,

of

79 prominent

W. Cowan

rose,

68

33 Chauteau de Clos Vougeot, 51 Cherokee rose, 80, 148

D
Daily Mail rose, 59 Damask Hybrids, 31 propagation
Perpetual, 31
of,

China

roses, 31

Christine Wright rose, 74

Classification

17

main

varieties,

50-66
Climate, American, influence
of,

on European
Climbers, 72

roses, 38, 40, 145

planting, 80

Danae rose, 79 Dean Hole rose, 51 Debutante rose, 78 Diagram showing location of each rose should be kept, 108,
109

pruning, 82

Wichuraiana, 82 Climbing Clothilda

rose, 77

Disbudding, 132

Soupert

Diseases, 131

remedies, 132, 143

Climbing Hybrid Tea roses, 73 Climbing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 74 Climbing Mrs. W. T. Grant rose,
75

Dr. Gill rose, 36

Dr. Van Fleet rose, 75 Dolly Varden rose, 70

Climbing Richmond rose, 75 Cloth of Gold rose, 79 Colors and shades, 40, 42 Comtesse Du Cayla rose, 67 Conrad Ferdinand Meyer rose,
51

Dorothy Page Roberts rose, 51 Dorothy Perkins rose, 77 Dorothy Eatcliffe rose, 51
Drainage, 93

Duchess of Albany rose, 26 Duchess of Sutherland rose, 52 Duchess of Wellington rose, 52,
108, 117

Coquette de Lyon rose, 37

Coquina

rose, 78

Best 16, No. 14 Duchess of Westminster

38-10

rose, 52

Cordelia rose, 79 Countess Clanwilliam rose, 70 Countess of Shaftesbury rose, 51

Dwarfs (bushes) and standards,

E
Ecarlate
rose, a sport Camoens, 26, 52 Edmee Metz rose, 36

Crimson Rambler, 84, 148 Crushed stone for underdrainage, 93

from

INDEX
Edu Meyer
rose,

52

General JIacArthur rose, 29, 53,

108, 117

Eliza Robichon rose, 77 Ellen Poulsen rose, 68

Ellen Willmott rose, 52

Best
Elli

16,

No. 4
rose,

Best 16, No. 10 General-Superior Arnold Janssen rose, 53

Geoffrey Henslow rose, 53

Hartmann

69

Etoile de France rose, 52

Eugene Boullet

rose, 52

Evangeline rose, 30, 77 Excelsa rose, 29, 78

Farben Koenigin Ferdinand Jamin

Flies, green, 133

rose, 53

rose,

56

Fisber Holmes rose, 30, 53

Flowers, number
117
of, in

season,

Foreword, 7

Formaldehyde for spraying, 139 Forms for inquiry and order

blanks, 104, 105

Waud rose, 54 Dickson rose, 54 Laing Paul rose, 36 Gloire de Dijon rose, 79 Gloire Lyonnaise rose, 54 Grace Molyneux rose, 54 Grafting, 24 Grange Colombe rose, 54 Green flies, destruction of, 133 Greenhouse for hybridization, 32 Grossherzog Freidrich rose, 54 Ground, cultivation, 134 Gruss an Teplitz rose, 54, 76, 80 Best 16, No. 12 Gustav Grunerwald rose, 55
C.

George George George George

Arends

rose, 53

Fortune's Yellow rose, 84 Franciscka Kruger rose, 53

H
Harry Kirk
44,

Frau Bertha Kiese rose, 70 Frau Karl Druscbki rose, 36,

16, No. 1 Frau Math. Noehl rose, 70 Freifrau Ida von Schubert

rose, 55

Best

16,

No. 13

53 Best

Heinrich Schultheis rose, sports

from, 27

Helen Good
rose,

rose, 67

53

Freiherr von Marschall rose, 53 Frost, protection of soil from,

for late

Hermosa rose, 55 Hiawatha rose, 29, 78 Hilling up late in autumn,

150

140,

autumn

planting, 96

F. R. Patzer rose, 53

Hoeing, 134 Hon. Ina Bingham rose, 55 Hugo Roller rose, 55

Hybrid China
Gardenia
rose,

78

roses, 31, 34 Perpetual roses, 22, 27, 29-

Gartendirector Hartrath rose, 53 General Jacqueminot rose, 35

31,

34,

38,

44,

47,

73,

128,

145

INDEX
Hybrid
Perpetual
of,

roses,

an-

cestors

30,

31

Killarney Brilliant rose, 56, 70 Killarney Queen rose, 69

Tea

roses, 22, 27, 30, 31, 34,

Konigin Carola

rose, 36,

56

38, 47, 73 sq., 128, 145, 149, 150

Wiehuraiana

roses, 29, 74

Hybridization, 30, 32, 33, 151 Hybrids, seeds from, useless, 10

La Detroit rose, 36 La France rose, 34,

dark, 26

37, 57

La Tosca rose, 57 Lady Alice Stanley

Indica, Odorata, 31

rose, 56, 117

Best

16,

No. 8

Information, general, 145

Irish Brightness rose, 55 Irish roses, single, 44

Jacqueminot rose Jacqueminot) Jacque Poscher rose, 71 Jacques Vincent, 55 Japanese Multi flora, stocks for
budding, 19, 20, 100, 101

(see General

Lady Lady Lady Lady Lady Lady Lady Lady

57

Ash town rose, 56 Barham rose, 56

Downe

de Bathe rose, 56 rose, 56

rose, 69

Dunleath

Hillingdon rose, 57

Katherine rose, 57 Margaret Boscawen

rose,

John Cuff
Jonkheer
117

rose,
J. L.

55

Lady Mary Fitzwilliam rose, Lady Pirrie rose, 57 Lady Plymouth rose, 70 Late autumn planting, 96
Laure de Broglie rose, 57 Laurent Carle rose, 57 Best 16, No. 11
Layering, 16
Litter

37

Mock

rose, 55,

Best 16, No. 6 Joseph Hill rose, 45, 55, 108, 109 Josephine rose, 70
Juliet rose, 55

Liquid manure, 132 for winter

140,

protection,

K
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria rose,
37, 56

141

Location
beds, 86

and preparation

of,

Lord Penzance

Key

to classification, 51

rose, 57 Louise-Catherine Breslau rose,

Killarney rose, 40, 46, 56, 108,

117

new

varieties of (sports),

58 Louise Welter rose, 67 Lucinda roses, propagation

of,

26 Best 16, No. 5

from suckers, 17

Lyon
160

rose, 58, 101

INDEX

M
Mabel Drew
rose,

58

Madame
SO

Alfred Carriere rose,

Manetti stocks for grafting, 24 Manure, 111, 131, 132 Marechal Niel rose, 79

Madame A. Tupinier rose, 58 Madame Berard rose, 35, 75 Madame Bravy rose, 34, 35 Madame Charles Dubreuil rose,
58

Margaret Dickson rose, 60 Margherita Croze rose, 70 Marquise de Sinety rose, 60 Mary, Countess of Ilchester,
rose, 61

Merveille de

Lyon

rose, 36, 61

Madame
59

Charles Lutaud rose,

Charles

Mevrouw Dora Van Tets

69

rose,

Madame Madame
71

Worth

rose, 59

Mildew, 135, 137, 138

Colette Martinet rose,

Miss Alice de Rothschild

61

rose,

Madame Edmee Metz

59

rose, 36,

Madame Edmond Rostand

59

rose,

Moonlight rose, 79 Mrs. Aaron Ward rose, 61 Mrs. Amy Hammond rose, 61 Mrs. Arthur E. E. Coxhead
rose, 61

Madame Edouard
59

Herriot rose,

Madame Madame
59, 76

Gabriel Luizet rose, 59

Hector Leuillot

rose,

Mrs. A. R. Waddell rose, 61 Best 16, No. 16 Mrs. Charles Custis Harrison,
rose, 61

Madame
Best

Jules Bouche rose, 59

16,

No. 2

Mrs. Charles Reed rose, 71 Mrs. David Baillie rose, 68

Madame Jules Grolez rose, 60 Madame Leon Pain rose, 60, 117
Best
60
16,

Madame Melanie

No. 7 Soupert rose,

_

Madame Ravary rose, 60 Madame Segond Weber rose, Madame Victor Verdier rose,
60

60 34

Mrs. Dudley Cross rose, 61 Mrs. E. Townsend rose, 62 Mrs. Forde rose, 69 Mrs. Frank Bray rose, 62 Mrs. Fred Straker rose, 62 Mrs. George Dickson rose, 62 Mrs. Harkness rose, 27 Mrs. Harold Brocklebank rose,
62

Mdlle. Marie Mascurand rose,

Mrs. Herbert Hawksworth

list

rose,

Main

of roses, 43, 50-06

62

Maman Cochet rose, 60 Manetti stocks for budding,

155

19,

Mrs. John Laing rose, 62 Mrs. Joseph H. Welch rose, 63 Mrs. Leonard Petrie rose, 63
161

INDEX
Mrs. Longworth rose, 36, 63 Mrs. T. Hillas rose, 69 Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miller
rose, 63

Persian Yellow rose, 16 Briar (Luteae), 31 Pests, 131

remedies, 133, 143

Mrs.

W.

J.

Grant

rose, 37, 63

Pharisaer rose, 64
Pierre Notting rose, 150 Pinching off superfluous blooms,
127

climbing, 75

Mock

rose (see Jonkheer Mock), 55, 117 Molly Sharman Crawford

20, 61

J. L.

rose,

Planting, beds and preparation,

86
general instructions, 106
late

Moss, 90, 106, 135 Mulching with peat moss, 90-93,

135

autumn,

advantage,

103
(

Multiflora
flora)

see Japanese Multi-

of climbers, 80

rules for, 112

Musk

rose, 31
rose, 29, 63

Plants, acclimated, 100

My Maryland

N
Natalie Bottner rose, 63 New varieties, development, 25 Noisette roses, 31, 79, 80

autumn, 96 budded field - grown dormant, 98

graftedsmall, 38
ordering
of,

97

own-root, 21, 22, 38

Polyanthas, climbing, 77
Odette Pedriolle rose, 63
President Carnot rose, 108, 109

Ophelia rose, 63
Ordering, importance of care
in,

President

W. H.

Taft rose, 64

Primerose, 70

97

Prince de Bulgarie rose, 64

Principal A. H. Pirie rose, 64

Oskar Cordel rose, 63 Own-root roses, 21, 22, 98

Propagation by suckers, 17
established varieties, 15

new
Paul Neyron rose, 64 Paul's Early Blush rose, 27 Peat moss for rose beds, 90-93,
135

varieties, 23

Protection from

autumn

frosts,

96
general, 139 of standards, 141

Periods of blooming, 117

wall

windwinter, 142

Pernetiana rose, 31, 152 Perpetual Hybrids, 22, 27, 29, 30, 31, 38

Provence hybrids, propagation

of,

from suckers, 17

Pruning, general, 115

INDEX
Pruning
in late

autumn, 140

Roses, sixteen best all-round, 41,

50, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 59, 60, 61, 65

of climbers, 82

standards, 38, 141

Queen Mary

rose, 64

Rugosa

roses

propagated

by

suckers, 17

stock for budding, 20 Rules for planting, 112

Radiance rose, 29, G4 Rayon d Or rose, 64 Red Four Seasons, 31 Reine Marie Henriette
75

Seedlings, 25, 28
rose, 35,

Seeds, established varieties, 16

hybrids, 10

Remedies, pests and diseases,

131, 143

Senateur Mascurand rose, 65 Shoots from below the bud, 20

Renee Wilmart-Urban
Rielimond rose, 65
climbing, 75

rose, 65

Shower
Silver

of

Gold

rose, 79, 80

Moon

rose,

7S

Simplicity rose, 65

Robert Heller rose, 68 Robert Huey rose, 65 Rodhatte rose, 69 Roots of

112
roses,

Sixteen best roses, 41

Soil,
of,

sq.

Slugs, destruction of, 136

care
131

106,

most suitable, 89 Souv. De Gustave Prat

rose,

68

Souv. de Louise Perrier rose, 65

of,

feeding

Souv. de M. Verdier rose, 36

spreading out, 110, 113 Roots of trees, protection from,

Souv. du President Carnot rose,

65, 75 Spinosissima roses, propagation
of,

86

Rosa Moschata, 31
Roses, best of each
42, 43 sq.

by suckers, 17

main

color,

Sports, 25
rarity of, 28 Spraying to kill aphides, 133 Standards and dwarfs (or bushes), 38

breeding
31

main

varieties,

budded,

19, 22,

101

budding, 19
classification of, 50-66

protection of, in winter, 39,

climbers, 72
cultivation, 131

40 weeping, 39 Stock of plants kept on

Stocks, Briar, 19, 24

sale,

98

dwarfs. 39
foreign

color varying, 40

pedigree, 35, 36

budded dormant grown, acclimated,

field-

98, 100

INDEX
Stocks, Japanese Multiflora, 19,
100, 101

Varieties,

introducers of new,

27

Manetti, 19, 24 Rugosa, 17

shoots from, below the bud,

main

list,

50-66

new, 40

20
Suckers, 17, 136

propagation of new, 23, 25 Viscountess Folkstone rose, 36,

66

Sunburst Suzanne
rose,

rose, 65

W
Rodocanachi

Marie

65
rose, 29

Waltham Scarlet rose, 71 W. A. Richardson rose, 80

Watering, 135 White Killarney rose, 66 White Maman Cochet rose, 66 Wichuraianas, 74, 75, 77 sq.,
146

Sweetheart

Tea

roses, 22, 37, 38, 39, 146, 150

climbing, 68

sq.,

146, 148

Tongueing (see Layering), 17

Wm.

Shean rose, 66 Willowmere rose, 66

Windbreaks, 87, 148 Wintering roses, 145 sq.
received late in autumn, 99

U
Ulrich Brunner rose, 65

Underdrainage, 93 Urania rose, 71

<

Wood
132

ashes

as

fertilizer,

W.
Varieties, best, 33, 41, 50 sq.

R. Staith rose, 66

established, 15

Xavier Olibo

rose,

66

ALEX. HILL GRAY

Alex. Dickson
than description.

Tea
1011

& Sons

Fair growth, sot

ALICE

LEMON
gr<

E. G. Hill 191
Lighter than English description; a small

ANNIE BESANT
P.

Uyhrii
1910

Nabonnanr

BEAITE INCONSTANTE
Pehnet-Ducheb 1393

Tea

CARDINAL
r

Hybrid Tea
1901

Cook & Son

growth, some late autumn bio

Collector's rose

COMTESSE FELICIE HOYOS

Hybrid

Tei

LADY GREENALL
Alex. Dickson

Hybrid Tea
1911

BOUPEBT & NOTTING 191*

& Sons

CHARLES

J.

GRAHAME

Hybrid Tea
1!>i

KAISER WILHELM
Welter
id

II.

Hybrid Tea

Alex. Dickson

& Sons

1910

Both weak growers

Middle Atlantic States

DEAN HOLE
Alfx. Dickson

Hybrid Tea

& Sons

1901

DOROTHY PAGE ROBERTS

Hybrid Alex. Dickson- & Sons 1007

7V,

DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND
Ai.ex.

Hybrid

Te,

Dickson & Sons

101'.'

DUCHESS OF WESTMINSTER
Alex. Dickson

Hybrid Tea

& Sons ion

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Hybrid Tea

Fair grower, some

Pail & Son 1!)()4 autumn bloom

5LIZABETH Hybrid Tea B. II. Cant & Sons 1911

Both
fair gr<r ivers

C.
with
so. He

W.

COWAN

Alex. Dickson
autu
liloom

& Sons

Hybrid Tea 1912

EVELYN DAUNTESSY
Very weak grower
in

Hybrid Tea

JIcGhehv & Son 1011

Middle Atlantic States

^^^
1
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FARREN KONIGIN

//j/liriW

Tra

MARSCHALL

Tet

GEOFFREY HENSLOW
Ai.ex.

Hybrid Tea

Dickson & Sons 1912

GEORGE DICKSON

Hybrid Tea

Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911

HERMOSA
Manchesan

Chi
1840

HUGO ROLLER
Pail & Son 1007

JOSEPH HILL

Hybrid Tea

Pernet-LH'cher 1904

LADY ASHTOWN

Hybrid Tea

Alex. Dickson & Sons 1911

LADY BARHAM

Hybrid Tea

Alex. Dickm.n & Sons 1911

LADY BATTERSEA
Paul & Son
Shy bloomer and weak grower.

Hybrid Tea
1901

collector'

MARY COUNTESS OF ILCHESTER

Sec
list

GEORGE

C.

WAUD

LADY JeBATHE
B. R.

Hybrid Tea
1911

Cant & Sons

LADY HILLINGDON
Lowe & Shawver

Tea

191(1

LADY MOYRA BEAUCLF.RC

Hybrid Tea

Alex. Dickson & Suns 1901 Weak grower in Middle Atlantic Stales

MABEL DREW
Alex. Dickson

Hybrid Tea

& Sons

1911

MADAM1'.

A.

TUPINIER

Hybrid Tea

A.

Peduiolle 1910

MME. EDOtTARD HERRIOT

Peknet-Dcciier 1913

Pernetianc

MADAME PAUL ROUCHON

Pedriolle
Fair grower, some
iai-2

Vyirii

T,<

autumn bloom

3EG0ND WEBER
>eht

Uyhi-kl TV,

AND Nottino 1908

MADAME

VERMORF.I, Mabi 1901

Small grower; some autumn hlo

MADAME WAGRAM, COMTESSE deTURENNE

Beksaix 1895 Some autumn bloom, weak grower in Middle

Hybrid

Tei

Atlantic States

MLI.K.

MARIE MASCURAND
Behs.ux 1009

Hybrid

Tec

MARY, COUNTESS OF ILCHESTER

Alex. Dickson

& Sons

1909

MR*. CHARLES
Ai.ix.

C.

HARRISON'

Ihjhrii Te,

Dickson & Suns 1910

IRS.

CHARLES
in

E.

ALLAN

Hybrid Ten

Hi GH Dickson 1911

Weak grower

Middle Atlantic States

MRS. JAMES CRAIG Hugh Dickson

Hybrid Tea
1908

Small grower, some autumn bloom

MRS. RICHARD DRAPER Hybrid Hugh Dickson 191-2

Only
fair

Tea

growth, some autumn bloom; poor foliage

NATALIE BOTTNER
BofTNEH 1910

Hybrid Tea

OPHELIA

Hybrid Tea
1013

Wm. Paul

PHARISAEIt Hybrid W. Hinner 1003

Te,

PRINCE

de

BULGARIE

Hybrid Tea

Pernet-Duciier 1903

RADIANCE

Hybrid Tea

John Cook 1012

ST.

HELENA
in

Hybrid Tea
Slat.-

R. R.

Cant & Sons 1912

Middle Atlantic

Not hardy

iPPHQR

lib

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