ALBEKT

R,

;G0Rj4lL U:NiViRSlTY

Cornell University Library

TS 1032.F54 1880
The harness makers'
illustrated

manual.A

3 1924 000 022 636

Cornell University Library

The
tine

original of

tliis

book

is in

Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright

restrictions in
text.

the United States on the use of the

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000022636

HARNESS MAKERS'
ILLUSTRATED

MANUAL.
SECOND EDITION.
A PRACTICAL GUIDE BOOK
FOB,

MANUFACTURERS ANB MAKERS

,

OF HARNESS, PADS, GIG SADDLES, ETC

CONTAINING

DIRECTIONS FOR SELECTING, CUTTING, AND PREPARING LEATHER; TABLES OF LENGTHS AND WIDTHS FOR CUTTING TRACK, SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROAD, COUPE, COACH, EXPRESS, TEAM AND FARM HARNESS, HALTERS, HORSE BOOTS, ETC.

EEOIPES POE PEEPAEING BLAOKIUGS, STAINS, OILS,

AND LEATHEE VAENISHES

HINTS ON RENOVATING AND REPAIRING HARNESS

NOTES ON HARNESS MOUNTINGS, with DESCRIPTIONS AND ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST POPULAR STYLES AND KINDS.
ADAPTED TO THE OFFICE AND THE WORKSHOP.
BY

W. N. FITZ-GERALD,
New
York.
zS86,

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in

tlie

year 1880

By Wm. N. Fitz-Geeald,
n
llie

Wasliington, Office of ttie Librarian of Congress, at

D. C,

COK"TENTS.

CHAPTER
The peculiar

I.

HARNESS LEATHER.
PAGE

by which Effect of strong Acids in the Quality may be determined Coloring Impure Oils Kinds of Harness Leather Oak,. Hemlock, and Union Tanned the Nature of each Hides Gum, suitable for making Harness Leather Causes of Spew, or Fry" The Effect of Dampness Weights to be 2i selected for all Kinds of Harness Grain Leather for Folds..
Characteristics of Leather

Test

''

CHAPTER
Selecting Rein
the

n.

RUSSET LEATHER.

good and poor Stock

sity of

Stains Comparative Value of Hand Part Leather Graining in Workshop Buff Leather Loop Leather The NecesLeather
;

uniform. Thickness unimportant a Mellow Grain Buying Leather -Weight Stock Unreliability of the rough Brand Backs Cropping Trimmed Stock

33

CHAPTER HL
PATENT LEATHER.
Glazed Leather

The Uses

to

which

it

is

put

Hides Splits, how designated The Effect of Splitting upon the Grain Varnishing, Drying, and Finishing Enamel Leather Texture, Color, and Fiiiish Stretching

Quality of

ro

CONTENTS.
PACE

Leather injurious to the Fibre When the best Leather is made

able

Care of Patent Leather July and August unfavor40

IV.

months

CHAPTER
How
to to

CUTTING HARNESS.
cut to

Responsibilit)' of

Weight Stock the best Advantage Objections to the Splitting Machine Cutting a Harness from one Side Illustration of a trimmed Side Weight Details for Cutting the different

Scraps The a Side of Directions for Cutting Dividing the Siae

the

avoid Waste
Cutter

Value of Illustration

of

Straps

45

CHAPTER
Wetting the Stock
ing Strap

V.

PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.

Drying How long to soakTestTrimming the Flesh Side Applying Tallow

Straps not to be disturbed until the Water has dried out Cleaning and Slicking The Effect of recurrying Blacking Leather for a Single-Strap Harness Wetting common Slock

58

CHAPTER VL
MEASURING FOR HARNESS.
Lack of System Result of improper Lengths Length of Hame Tugs Lengths adopted by prominent Manufacturers Harness for Horses of different Sizes Lengths governed by Localities

58

CHAPTER

VII.

TABLES OF LENGTHS.
No. I. Single-Strap Track Harness No. 2. Single Road Harness No. 3. Single Harness (Breast Collar) No. 4. Single Harness (Hame Collar) No. 5. Heavy Coupe Har-


CONTENTS.
Double Road Harness No. 7. Short Tug Coach Harness No. 8. Long Tug Coach Harness No. g.
ness
6.

II
PACE

No.

English Four-in-Hand

No.

10.

Tandem No.

11.

Single

Express No. 12. Heavy Express No. 13. Long Tug Team Harness No. 14. Long Tug Farm Harness No. 15. Wagon Harness with adjustable Trees No. i6. Adjustable Pad Double Harness No. 17. Pennsylvania Wagon Harness No. 18. Stage Harness No. ig. Bitting Harness No. 20. Cart Harness No. 21. Mule Harness No. 22. Short Tug Butt Chain Harness Trimmings for Carriage Harness

64

CHAPTER VHL
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.
Result of Neglect in learning the Trade Want of System Importance of the Fitter and Stitcher working in Unison Wetting the Stock Skiving and slicking the Straps Fitting up the Shaft Tugs, Docks, and Winker Brace Finishing the Edges Prepared Tallow Gum Tragacarth Cutting and preparing the Patent Leather Finishing up Rounds Mak-

ing

Docks ^Importance

of

good Patterns

How

to

prepare
112

the Patterns

CHAPTER
Its

IX.

MAKING SINGLE-STRAP TRACK HARNESS.

Skill required in making up How to attain Steer Hides the best. Weight of Side quired Sectional Drawings Safety Strap Half Kemble
Origin
the best Results

re-

Jackson check

122

CHAPTER

X.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.

Mistaken Ideas regarding Team Harness Selecting Stock Weights to be used General Directions for cutting and fitting Pads Filling Folds Bridles, the Importance Lines, Lengths Mountings, the Imof proper Proportions

12

CONTENTS.
PAGE

be done with white Thread Coarse stitching the strongest Fitting and stitching Traces Final Finish Heavj' ornamental Truclc Harness Bridles, Coach Style Wheel Harness without Pads Traces and Safes, how cut Lead Harness Loin Straps Mountings Collars 128
portance of
Strength
to

Stitching

CHAPTER

XI.

MAKING GIG SADDLES.

Cleaning and treeing up the Tree Preparing the Seat Leather Preparing the Frame Making Joclceys Flopping off Making Loops Cutti?.g and fitting Points Back Bands Quality of Leather Making the Pads Stuffing Materials used Changing Shape of Patterns 141

CHAPTER XIL
PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.

Improvements Patent Pads Directions for making Coach Pads Socket Piece, how to cut Fitting up CutHair-stuffed Pads ting Felt for the Pad Stitching, etc Directions for making Soft Pad illustrated Cutting Tops and Sides Hard Pad, Directions for making Illustrated Plain Pads, Directions for making 149

CHAPTER
Kinds of Loops
vantages of
the Leather
in use

XIH.

MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.

Stock Wetting Creasing Back Clamp Iron Working up Sides before creasing Coloring and finishing Pressed Loops, stitching on How they are made Time needed to press Variety of Patterns How

Fullness

handmade Loops Selecting

necessarj'

Patent

Loops,

how made Ad-

cheap Harness are improved by their use

161


CONTENTS.
13

CHAPTER
The End
Strands
to

XIV.
PAGE

STITCHING HARNESS.

Thread
specific

Importance of Care in Stitching How the Stitches are laid Irregularity produced by not drawing
Purposes
the Threads evenly

Waxing

be attained Thread, Size and Number of White Thread the strongest Making up the
before twisting

The

Kind of

Wax

for

To cause

both Sides to appear alike

168

Points to be Observed

CHAPTER
MAKING ROUND

XV.
REINS.

Good Stock a Necessity Directions for Cutting Dampening the Leather Making the Stop Marking off for the Board Iron, how made Bi:lct Filling up and rounding Rounding and trimming Stain, how made Advantage of using Shellac Rein Ends, illustrated 175

CHAPTER

XVI.

COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.

The most ornate Part of the Harness Winkers, Style and Finish " Hinging" English Coach Bridle Cuttings

Illustrations of various Styles of Bridles

Crown Pieces..

. .

183

CHAPTER
Uniformity of Style

XVII.

RIDING BRIDLES.

How they are namedCuttings for Illustration Leather used English Russet Buif Leather Stitching not used for ornamenting
various Kinds

196

CHAPTER XVIIL
HALTERS.

The
ish

Varieties

United States Government

Halter-^-Span-

Halter Bitting HalterTraining Halter:French Halter Stable Halter Yankee Halter Double Cheek


14

CONTENTS.
PAGE

Halter
tions

Slip HalterTeam

Halter

Cuttings
XIX.

and

Illustra-

205

CHAPTER

HORSE BOOTS.
Success in making Knee, Shin, Ankle, and Combination Boots Directions for making Illustrations for Weights

How made Illustrations

224

CHAPTER XX.
HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
Classes and Styles^Plated, close and electro Grades of How to determine the Quality Elec-

Tarnishing not an Color and Evidence of Impurit}' Gold Plate Nickel Advantages Brass not popular Oroide, Color Not deGilding Aluminum the most sirable except as a Base superiority as a white expensive Metal German Metal Covered Mountings Leather and Composition Leather used Liability to Improvements made Rubber-covered When patented Description of Process of Manufacture Celluloid-covered Description of Manufacture Tinned XC Plate ^Japanned Patented Styles
Silver for Close Plate

tro

Plate less

durable, but cheaper

Its

its

for

Silver, its

rip

Il-

lustrations of Terrets,

Hooks,

etc

249

CHAPTER
Patent Trace Harness Trace Popular Styles Illustrations

XXI.

BUCKLES.

Collar Center
XXII.

Bar
271

CHAPTER
BITS

AND BITTING HARNESS.

verian

Popular Styles Snaffle Dexter HanoSnaffle Metals used Steel not desirable Unreliability of Malleable Iron System of numbering How designated Illustrations Bitting HarBrutal Devices

Half

Cheek Trotting


CONTENTS.
IS
PAGE

ness

Wooden

Jockey,

illustrated

Patent

Jockey,

illus-

trated

281

CHAPTER
As important
as

XXIII.

REPAIRING HARNESS.

making new Stock

False

Directions

Cleaning the Leather an important Consideration When to repair Cleaning the Surface before oiling How to soften old Leather Pure Neat's-foot Oil the best Castor Oil, its qualities Tallow the only reliable Grease How to apply

Grease Gum, how to

remove

only will restore the Lustre

Patent Leather-Varnish How clean

it

to

290

CHAPTER XXIV.
CARE OF HARNESS IN THE FACTORY AND STABLE.

Consumers not acquainted with the Peculiarities of Stock The great Destroyer Care of Harness in Stock White Mold Importance of removing it immediately Cleaning Mountings
Durability dependent upon Treatment

Pegs for hanging Harness Daub, how made How to keep Russet Strapping The Manufacturer's duty to his Customers Directions for the Care of Harness in the Stable Mountings not to be scoured How to clean.. 296

CHAPTER XXV.
LEATHER BLACKING.
Stains, Varnishes,

and Polishes

302

CHAPTER XXVI.
RECIPES.

Miscellaneous Recipes for the Workshop and Harness-

Room

,,...,

317

INDEX OF PLATES.
Goldsmith Maid, Track Harness
Frontispiece.
PACK

Double Road Harness

20
33
53 61

Coupe Harness
Phaeton Harness

Coach Harness
Breast Collar, Single Harness

113
122
-.

Hame
Heavy

Collar; Single

Harness

Team Harness
Draft Harness

129 137

Georgia

Wagon Harness

161

PREFACE.

This book originated from a desire to furnish harness makers with a condensed practical guide suited to the workshop, office, salesroom, and
It treats of leather as furnished to the harness maker by the currier, its texture, strength, adaptability for specific uses how to cut, fit, and measurmg for harness complete tables finish for lengths and widths for cutting the various

stable.

classes in use,

whether
halters,

for the carriage, farm, or

road

bridles,

horse-boots, mountings,

bits, etc.

The illustrations represent standard styles and kinds of articles used by the trade, and guides
for

making up.

In the hints on repairing and caring for harness,

a large

amount of information

is

furnished the

manufacturer and consumer, in a condensed form.

The
etc.,

recipes for blacks, stains, varnishes, polishes,

;

have been tested and found reliable the whole making a methodical manual indispensable to the progressive harness maker, and useful to
every horse owner or other person interested in harness or saddlery. It is the only book of the

PREFACE.

kind published in the English language, and supplies a much-needed want. Every care has been taken to present the subjects treated on in the plainest manner, and to avoid errors. The author confidently believes that benefit will result from following the instructions given, and the standard of harness making be elevated. Should this anticipation be realized, the time spent in its preparation will be compensated for.

INTRODUCTION.

The

manufacture of saddlery and harness, ex-

clusive of all collateral branches, stands thirty-

fourth in magnitude out of the

fifty-eight

two hundred and

specified

industries tabulated in the

in the

census report of 1870. At that time there were United States 7,607 saddler};^ and harness establishments, giving employment to 23,557
;

all but 841 were males above 16 years employing a capital of $13,935,961 payof age; ing in wages $7,046,207 for materials, $16,068,310; and producing goods to the value of $32,; ;

workmen

709,981.

Missouri stands
fifth in

first in

the

list in

value

of products, but

the

employed, and second m York stands second in value of products, first in "very other particular. Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, and New-Jersey are next in order. By the total figures it will be seen that the average wages of the workmen is about $299 a year, being $78 below the average for the whole country in 1870, and $10 above the average of i860. There are but eleven branches of industry in which the number of establishments exceeds those

number of workmen the wages paid. New-

ZO

mTRODUCTION.

of saddlery and harness, and in view of this fact, the average rate of wages is remarkably good.

The harness-maker

is

called

upon

to supply har-

ness, saddlery, etc., for 7,145,370 horses, 1,125,415 mules and asses, a total of 8,270,785 animals yet
;

the total value of products of a year show but $4 a head for each animal a figure disproportion-

ately small,
least,

and one which explains,

is

in part at

why

the trade

should be. Were it the investment of a large capital, the case would be different but as it is, the investment of a few hundred dollars enables a man to engage in a small business which returns him a moderate living, but one that might be lucrative if conducted The harness maker supplies in a proper manner. an article of absolute necessity, and there is no excuse for his placing his prices below fair business rates. If each man in the business would properly estimate the cost of every article, and add thereto a fair percentage of profit, there would be less complaints as to the unprofitableness of the harness trade. In preparing this manual the author has aimed to give information of a practical character to the trade, which will enable those engaged in it to conduct the workshop in a systematic manner. If this end is accomplished, it will be one important step toward making the business a profitable and pleasant
;

prosperous than it a business which required

less

one.

^e^

THE

HARNESS-MAKERS'

ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.
CHAPTER

I.

HARNESS LEATHER.

BEFORE entering upon details respecting the

practical work of the harness- maker, I shall give some general directions regarding the various kinds of leather used, its adaptation to specific grades and patterns of harness, together with such other details as may serve to assist the manufacturer in selecting his stock. The familiar adage, " There is nothing like leather," is an old one, and it is true in more In the first place, leather is senses than one. an article of such peculiar structure that those who have spent a lifetime in working it can not give any reliable rules by. which an inexperienced person may judge to a certainty of The grain may be fine, close, and to its quality. the eye all that can be desired, the flesh side

fat. harness-makers'

illustrated manual.

smooth, of good color, and finely finished, and yet the quality be such as to condemn it as soon as On the it gets into the hands of the workman. other hand, the grain may be coarse and the flesh side badly cleaned, and yet, for actual wear, it may be of good quality. The hides from which it was made may have been taken from old or poorly fed cattle, insufficiently tanned, badly curried with cheap oil and tallow, stuffed to weigh heavy, blacked with strong acids, which have passed through the grain and rendered it hard and brittle, of uneven thickness, the shoulders thin and unfit for general use all of which faults are of a serious nature, and yet a long experience, by which the eye and touch are so
;

educated as to detect almost by intuition defects other than the most prominent, is the only safe and reliable guide as to the actual merits of the
leather.

There

assist in the

The

however, a few leading tests Avhich acquiring of the needful experience. character of the hide before it was tanned
are,

may be

ascertained, in
It is

most

cases,

by

close ex-

amination.

a well-known fact that cattle

raised in certain sections of the country produce

much finer grained hides, possessing in a greater degree the firm, elastic nature necessary for the production of harness leather, than those raised If the hide has been taken in other sections. from an old and poor animal, the grain will be coarse, uneven, and irregular, the neck hard and rough, the flanks thick and flabby, and the

HA&NESS LEATHfiK.
;

^J

shoulders and hips thin and baggy if from a young, well-kept animal, the grain will in most cases be fine, close, and even, the flesh side smooth and of a good color, and the whole side Grub-holes are a of nearly uniform thickness. sure indication of poor hides, but, as they can be so easily detected, it is unnecessary to caution buyers to avoid all having these defects. Short tannage is a very common fault, but it is one that can be detected by cutting a strip from the hide and wetting the freshly-cut edge with the tongue if the color is uniform throughout, and the cut edge presents a smooth and glassy appearance, instead of being covered with fine If, on the other fibres, the tannage is good. hand, the cut edge presents a fuzzy appearance, feels harsh and rough when dry, and shows a white or light-colored strip through the centre when wet, it is insufficiently tanned, and the wider this light strip the poorer is the tannage. It frequently happens that leather which has been well tanned is injured in the currying, and it is much more difficult to detect faults arising from this source than those due to short tannages. The grain may have been injured while being tanned, but it is just as liable to injury from the use of strong acid blacks, which, while
:

giving it a deep black color, cause it to become The best and most reliable hard and brittle. test for detecting this fault is to bend a narrow
strip, flesh sides

together, and close

;

it

down

be-

tween the teeth

if

the grain

is

hard and

brittle.

24
it

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

will surely

break

off short, so as to

show the

natural color of the leather underneath. If, however, the leather is extra heavy, this test will be
likely to rupture the grain, whether the quality be good or bad but if good, it will have the appearance of having been torn asunder instead of broken off short. If the hard grain has been produced by strong acids, which have burned it, a freshly- cut edge will show to what depth they have penetrated, and there will be black streaks well down into the fibres below the grain. The use of impure oils or grease is also a source of much annoyance, it being very difficult, in fact almost impossible, to detect the fault until after the harness has been made up and exposed for a time in the show-case, when the tell-tale gumspots will appear on the surface, exposing the fraud, though not until the manufacturer has suf;

fered

much

loss

of his harness.

gum-spots will side has been cut. When this is the case the leather may be treated as we have directed in Chapter V., and future gumming will be prevented.

by the depreciation in the value sometimes happens that these appear upon the grain before the
It

These points seem to assist in the detection of the above-mentioned faults, but they can not be

upon under all circumstances frequent handlmg and close observation will alone give the eye and touch the training necessary for the
relied
;

intelligent selection of

the

different 'qualities.

Good

leather, in the

language of one of the best

HARNESS leathe:k.

?5
in the harness;

known and most experienced men

leather trade, should be " solid, but not hard mellow, but not soft " qualities that can not be explained, but which can be detected instantly by one who has the requisite experience. In this country there are three kinds of leather employed by harness-makers namely, oak, hemlock, and union (oak and hemlock) tanned, all of which are used to a considerable extent. All other conditions being equal, however, oak-tanned leather is by far the best. It is firmer, but not so hard as hemlock, the fibre is finer and more dense, and, as a natural result, is not so easily affectfed by water it also works up finer, takes a much better finish, is more easily worked,

and possesses more of the qualities indispensable to the production of good harness strength and pliability than any other tannage. Hemlock leather is harder of a dark red color, which

its taking a good black, and also causes the latter to assume a dingy brown appearance on exposure to the elements the grain is more open and appears coarser it wets up quickly, and does not dry out as soft as does oak leather it is harder to stitch, and is in-

greatly interferes with

when the strap is placed in a position where the strain comes on a short bend or on the edge. It is also much
ferior in strength, particularly

hemlock will weigh from more than a side of oak leather of equal spread and thickness, a difference that makes up for the margin in
heavier.
side of

eight to ten per

cent

26

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRAtED MANUAL.

price between the

is

either tanned with

liquors, or first

Union" leather mixed oak and hemlock tanned with hemlock, and after-

two

kinds.

"

wards retanned with oak, the latter operation giving it a much lighter color than it originally possessed in some cases the color on the flesh side being so light as to deceive the buyer who The is unacquainted with this kind of leather. grain is close and, as a rule, finer than either oak or hemlock, but for harness this leather is inferior to oak in every respect, and but a little better than hemlock. It weighs nearly as heavy
;

as

the latter,
it

and

possesses no qualities that

recommend
stock.

to the buyer

who

desires

good

In

some
is

sections of the

country, hemlock

leather

made with much

and grease.

care, the hides being

closely selected, well tanned, and curried with

the best
ner,
it

oil

Prepared

in this

maninto

gives satisfaction

when not brought

direct competition with oak-tanned stock;

but,

no matter how much care

ercised,
it is

may have been

ex-

inferior to oak-tanned leather with

is

which the same pains have been taken, and there but one condition under which it should receive the preference, and that is when the choice lies between inferior oak and superior hemlock.

The following general advice may be

leather.

of value

to harness-makers and manufacturers of harness

Select hides of

young

steei's

or heifers
killed

which were

in the best condition

when

they only possess the requisites of fineness of grain.

HARN'ESS tEAT'HEK.
tiniform'ity of thickness,

if
fibre.

and strength of
is

cow

or bullock hide
;

entirely unfitted for

the butt of the former is liaand the shoulder thin, while the latter will be thick at the head and belly, thin and soft at the butt. Having found such a hide, examine it further and see that it has not been damaged by scratches. These, though apparently simple, are very injurious, as they can not be entirely removed, and will show upon the grain as soon as the leather is dampened by the workmen. See that there are no warble or grub holes along the back. These are not likely to be found in hides taken from cattle that are killed in the summer or fall. Next ascertain whether the hide has been damaged by the butcher or not. If it has been cut, it should never be used for harness leather. Length is an important consideration, and many hides are seriously damaged in this respect by the butcher having cut the animal's throat from ear to ear, thus shortening the hide by severing the cheeks from the body. Tanning, though not a portion of the harnessmaker's business, should be understood by him so far as to enable him to distinguish between the various products. Oak-tanned is superior to any other now in use because of its being tougher and more pliable but even oak-tanned may not be good. There are two general methods of tanning one the sole leather, by which the leather is made firm and hard the other the upper leather, by which the leather is made pliable and
this

kind of leather

ble to be thick

THS; HARNESS-MAftERs' ILLUStRAi'ED MAis'X/Af,.

tough.

By

the

first

method greater weight

is

is

unsuited to the use of the harness- maker. Some tanners follow the former method in part, and thereby secure a
secured, but the quality

greater weight, but they can not produce a good qruality. This leather can be detected while working it by its hard, sole-leather-like character.
It

does not work well

in rounds, or

and is more to a sudden strain.

raised,

likely to

when being break when subjected

of tanning,

In there cut
tre.

addition
is

to
is

these

features
as

what

known

the

short-tanned,

this leather coiling like a piece of tin,

it

and when shows a pale streak through the cen-

Then there is the limy leather, with a loose, wrinkled grain, or puffed up beyond its proper thickness, which will, upon being worked, stretch
and
a
fall

away

to its natural substance.

There

is

also the black-oak tannage.

greenish-yellow

This leather shows appearance in spots upon

is soft, and It possesses less strength than white-oak leather. Well-tanned leather is too often injured in being curried the use of poor oils and grease causes the "gum," " spew," or " fr}-," as it is known in different loif properly curried with good oils, this calities

the flesh side.

pest of the harness-maker will not appear. Leather that has been well curried will possess a surface free

from roughness or wrinkles, and

silky to the touch.

will be

smooth and

The

er furnishing

buyer, therefore, should insist upon the sellhim with hides such as haye been

HARNESS LEATHER.

Zg

recommended, reasonably free from scratches, warble or grub holes, or cuts by the butcher, of fine, mellow tannage, and curried in the best manner with pure oil and grease. Perfection is not to be expected the harness-maker should aim to
;

secure leather possessing the

minimum

of defects.

sometimes made to feel mellow and to appear tough by being moistened by the currier. The dampness may be detected by placing the palm of the hand upon the thickest part of the side. Such leather shrinks in weight, and proves a poor purchase to the buyer. Next in importance to the procuring of a good quality of leather is the selection of that which possesses the requisite weight and strength for the kinds of harness designed to be made, and the particular parts for which it is intended. So well is this understood by leading harnessmanufacturers who make up full lines, that they never cut a harness from a single side, but select the leather carefully and use a specific grade or weight for each particular strap while the leading custom manufacturers purchase or cut only backs of the best quality. The great majority, however, buy their leather in small quantities, and by so doing commit the error of not procuring As a rule, they select the a proper assortment. weight best adapted to the greater portion of their work, and when lighter stock is needed they resort to the splitting-machine, entailing on themselves extra labor, and wasting no inconsiderable amount of leather, besides materially weakening

Hard

leather

is

30

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

the straps thus manipulated, as the portion of the flesh side which is removed is the strongest part
of the stock.
If extra

heavy straps are needed, three thick-

nesses of leather are used, which in most cases

the use of the splitting-machine to overweight, whereby further loss is incurred. If, instead of following this course, they would assort the sides so as to provide themselves with a full line of weights, from six to twenty pounds a side, they would at all times possess leather adapted to every requirement except the heaviest truck-harness, which calls for the heavier grades. Light weights are needed for bridles, no matter what kind of harness is to be made, and, as a rule, sides weighing fourteen pounds and under can be cut to good advantage Traces, back-bands, and breechfor this purpose. ing-straps require heavier leather, and hides suitable for these particular straps should always be kept on hand. A few years' experience will ena ble any man to determine the proper weights and proportions for his line of business, and he can procure assorted stock just as easily as he can any single weight. Light road-harness of the best quality, whether single or double, is made up of two thicknesses and stitched throughout. The leather used should be of the finest quality of light weights, ranging from fourteen to sixteen pounds to the side for the harness proper, and eight to twelve pounds for the bridles, these weights being better
calls

for

prevent

HARNESS LEATHER.

3!

adapted to this class of harness than the heavier grades that need to be split in order to reduce them to the required thickness. The grain is generally fine and the fibre strong it fits up well, retains its shape, and finishes smooth and soft. The track-harness, which is now one of the most popular styles in use for trotting-horses, is made up of single straps throughout, excepting the backbands. The leather best adapted to this style is that made from fine-grained, young hides, the weight being about sixteen pounds to the side for all but the bodies these, being also single, should be of a lighter weight, or they will have to be skived off on the under side to prevent the edges curling up. For bridles, the same weight should be used as for light road-harness. The medium grade of light single harness is generally made up with single straps and lined points. For this style a heavier leather is required, except for the bridle, in order to obtain the requisite firmness and strength, the best weight being from sixteen to eighteen pounds to the side. These weights also answer well for all grades of single or double harness up to those requiring one and one quarter inch traces, though it is better to use heavier weights for traces, hold-backs,
; ;

and back-bands. For light coach-harness, the best weight is but if extra about eighteen pounds to a side heavy traces are used, it is better to select leather sufficiently heavy to allow of the employ;

jijent

of only

two

thjcknegses, thus

obviating

32

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

the necessity of a fiUing-in piece. If the latter is used, it should be of quite light leather.

Coach and coupe harness require heav}- weights,

particularly for traces, hold-backs,

back-bands,

and breeching-straps

for all other straps, except-

ing bridles, eighteen to twenty pounds to a side are good weights, but the latter should be made

from sides weighing about fourteen pounds. Light express-harness, being made up of single straps, requires the use of sides weighing from eighteen to twenty pounds each the bridles, however, should be made from stock of about the same weights as that used for coach-harness. These weights also answer well for farm and the lighter grades of team harness, while heavy truck and cart harness requires the use of the heaviest grades of leather in the market. The above weights are those of the average spread of oak-tanned sides extra large or small hides, or those tanned with hemlock, may be gauged by
; ;

these.

Grain leather
of

is

much used

for folds, and, as a

rule, the bellies, or at least the

lower portions
this

trimmed hides, answer well for pose though the finest, for coach and
;

pur-

light har-

ness, is

made from
is

sides

or under, while

for

weighing sixteen pounds team and truck harness a

heavier grade

required.

CHAPTER

II.

RUSSET LEATHER.
selecting rein leather, the IN quality should be employed same tests as to as with harness
leather, as
it

is

in

every respect the same with

the exception that, instead of being colored black, it is bleached, and afterwards stained brown or

some other
to bleach
it

color.

The

latest freak of fashiop

it

is

quite light and then color

stain, so as to

with a
is

yellowish-brown

produce what

known

as cuir-color, a very light, almost imper;

ceptible brown in fact, the shade is nearer to the natural color of fine oak-tanned leather than any thing else, and the stain used is more for the pur-

pose of producing a uniform shade than establishnew color. When this color is employed, very little stain is needed on the edges of straps to bring them up to the same shade as the grain and where it can be done, the harness-maker will find it to his advantage to procure of the leathermanufacturer the same kind of stain as is used to color the grain, the beauty of a russet rein depending quite as much upon its uniformity of color as upon its make. The brown and yellow stains can be made very easily, but those used to produce the soft, fine shades are part of the leaing a
;

34

THE HARNESS-MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

ther-manufacturcr's stock-in-trade, and their preparation is kept a secret, at least until fashion has

adopted some new color as the

In selecting rein leather,
it

favorite.

is bad policy to choose any thing but the best quality. Poor leather works harder, does not keep its shape as well, and takes a less uniform shade when stained, particularly when it is short-tanned, as the untanned centre presents a darker shade than the portion Then, too, if the that is well filled with bark. grain is hard it is liable to crack while being made up, or upon being bent while in use. A pair of russet reins will contain about one pound

of leather, and the trifling difference in the cost

between the highest and lowest priced stock should not be sufficient inducement to the harnessmaker to jeopardize the lives of his customers by the use of inferior, unsafe reins. Hand-part leather, like that for the reins, should be of the very best quality, and all the tests that are applied to other kinds are equally effectual for this, while it should also be soft and pliant. It is customary among harness-makers who use but a small amount of rein-leather to cut their folds for hand parts from the same side as they do the rounds. This is a mistake, entailing additional cost without the gain of a single advantage. Rein leather in most cases is too heavy for folds, and must be split to reduce it to the proper thickness. This process removes some of the strongest portion ot the leather, besides occupying the time of the

RUSSET LEATHER.

35

A cheaper and much better plan is to procure hand-part leather that has been made expressly for the purpose. It is of lighter weight, much stronger in proportion to its thickness, and, when cut to the proper width, is ready
workman.
for

the

workman
leather

to

make
;

up.

For

flat

hand

should be equally as heavy as that used for the rounds it can be cut from the same sides as the rounds if desired, but, as it is generally too hard, the workman is compelled to resort to some method of softening it, such
parts the

around a post, rolling and workflat hand parts, grained leather is quite popular, and looks well. When the harness-maker can not readily procure this, he can obtain very nice grained hand parts by boarding or breaking the grain in the same manner as is done by the curriers, as follows cut a piece of leather from the side, of the full width needed for two pairs of hand parts, as a piece of the requisite width for one pair would be too narrow to work well lay the strip on a table, the grain side up, and with a board, such as is used by curriers, crease the grain, commencing at the front corner on one end, and giving the
as pulling
it

ing, etc.

For

leather a half roll diagonally across the strip, con-

work it at the same angle until the other end is reached; then commence at the front corner of the other end, and board it at the same angle as the first, until the end is reached where the work was begun. By this means, the creases the disin the grain will cross each other and for
tinuing to

36

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

tinctive feature

name.
the

from which the leather gets its The fineness of the graining depends
will acquire all the

little time experience necessary for the production of a fine, even grain. To the harness-maker using but little of this kind of hand-part leather, graining in this manner is a matter of economy. The labor needed to produce the desired surface does even more than this, as it breaks down and softens the leather, making it as pliant as can be desired. Buff leather is also much used for hand parts.

upon the amount of labor applied. In a

workman

It

is

made

of the

same quality of stock

as the

other kinds, but is not stained, the grain being buffed by the currier to remove the gloss and give it a white, furried appearance. It is a soft, pliant leather, and is one of the best kinds in use for hand parts, as, in addition to its softness and good appearance, it will not soil the most delicate
fabrics.

Another

light- colored leather,

it is

and one a good

procure,
is

quality of which

difficult to

that

known

as loop leather.
is

This, unlike the kinds

not curried with oil, or at any kind employed It must be solid, and yet possess a is very small. mellow grain that will readily take a crease and retain it. If in creasing up the work, one mark when placed in close proximity to another obliterates it, or decreases its depth in the least, a good piece of work can not be made, and only by the exercise of the greatest care can even an ordinary job be
before mentioiied,
least the quantity of grease of

BUYING LEATHER.

37

produced. If, however, the grain is mellow, each impression made by the creaser becomes permanently set, and the adjoining one, no matter how near it may be, is equally well defined. For this reason, in selecting a side, make good tannage,

mellow

grain,

and a
;

solid

body the

tests.
is

The

lack of uniformity in thickness

a matter

of no importance triment, as

indeed, instead of being a de-

is the case with all other leather used by harness-makers, it is a positive advantage, as the shoulders and other thin parts can be used for check and other light loops, while the thick butts are of the proper weight for trace and similar heavy loops, all the intermediate thicknesses

being available for the various loops for other

parts.

BUYING LEATHER.
In purchasing leather, the to
in other respects

buyer is compelled depend much upon the honor of the seller

than the determination of the

quality, excepting in the case of

weight stock,

which
stock,

sold by the pound, the weight being ascertained at the time of sale. With trimmed
is

however, the case is different in most marThis leather is marked with its weight kets. while in the rough, and after it is trimmed and curried there are no means of ascertaining the correctness of the brand. It is claimed that a side of leather weighing eighteen pounds in the rough will lose about four pounds in the currying and trimming. No reliance however, can be

38

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

;

placed upon this estimate for if the flesh side is not well cleaned, and the currier is desirous of misleading, the leather may be stuffed with cheap oil until the finished is equal to the rough weight.

Backs as well as trimmed sides are sold by the rough weight, with an additional charge of $1 and $1.50 each for dressing. Recently, however, a leading New-York manufacturer has adopted the plan of selling backs by their actual weight at the time of sale, the price charged being 82 cents per pound, which is, as near as can be ascertained, the actual cost of that bought by the pound, and to which an extra charge has been added for finishing. The latter is the most simple method, and will no doubt come into general use

when the advantages are fully understood. The buyer, however, is at liberty to take or
in the latter case the value by deducted from the bill. These weigh, as a rule, four pounds. Thus a side of leather which weighed eighteen pounds in the rough, if properly fleshed and curried will lose four pounds by this process and three or four pounds more by cropping, leaving about eleven pounds of prime leather in the back, for Avhich the buyer pays as though in the rough stock eighteen pounds, less the three or four pounds deducted if the bellies are not wanted. Therefore, in buying a back, 48 cents a pound would be charged for eighteen pounds of leather, and $1.50 added for

leave the bellies

weight being

dressing,

making the

total cost

$8.70, after da-

BUYING LEATHER.

39

ducting for the

bellies,

leaving eleven pounds of

prime

leather, to be paid for at a cost of

about

80 cents a pound, or nearly double the apparent quotation. In trimmed stock, the difference between the actual and the quoted price is much less, but the

buyer pays for the bellies as well as the backs. The price charged per pound is, however, about 2 cents less for the same quality, in which case an eighteen-pound side would cost $8.28, and the actual weight would be about fourteen pounds, making the leather cost about 59 cents a pound, a difference of about 21 cents a pound between it and the backs. It will be seen by this that any false branding of the rough weight causes a marked advance in the price, and should teach the importance of buying trimmed stock of honest, reliable men, and of avoiding speculators, who offer extra inducements in the way of low prices, as the latter are sure to be made up by increased
weight.

CHAPTER

III.

PATENT LEATHER.
or, as it is more frequently called, patent leather is now extensively used in the manufactur6 9f harness, pads, gig-saddles, and winkers, they being seldom made of other kinds, while for ornaments such as tabs, tug-ends, fronts, like plain etc., it is deemed almost indispensable leather, it is made both of good and poor material, and finished to correspond. The finest qualit}' is made of well-assorted hides, tanned with young oak bark, weak liquors being used at first, and gradually strengthened each day until the proper degree is reached, ample time being given to thoroughly tan the leather before it is removed from the vats. All hides that are to be used for thin leather are then
;

GLAZED,

split.

taken from the flesh side is small, the "junior," and is seldom in glazed stock finished following this is one or more full splits according to the thickness of the hide. The splits are always finished smooth, the grain being largely used for enamel leather, though it is also finished as grain, collar, binding,
first split

The

and

is

known

as

etc.

PATENT LEATHER.

41

Running the hide through the

splitting-ma-

chine has long been acknowledged to be detrimental to the leather, owing to the severe strain
to

which

it

is

subjected, but the introduction of

the belt-knife machine for splitting removes

of this objection, as the hide
is split

much

without be-

ing strained in the least. The processes of varnishing, drying, and finishing, while determining the qualit)' of the leather, are foreign to the business of the harness-maker but there are points which he should understand in order to be able to judge of the quality of the leather. The first of these is the condition of the finished surface, which should be smooth, the coat of color and varnish being of sufficient thickness to give a pure color, while on skirting, winker, and other heavy stock the varnish should be thicker than on light leathers, as these are seldom bent while being worked. Light leather, such as collar and
;

always worked over round frames, and is too heavy it is liable to crack, thus defacing the surface. This is particularly the case with collar-leathers, which in too many cases are but the thinnest splits, selected without regard to their adaptability to the required purpose, whereas they should be of extra soft stock, coated as thinly as possible with the best grade of varnish. The severe treatment it receives while being shaped to the collar is sure to impair the surface even of the best. The grades of leather known as grain winker, skirting, collar, etc., comnjand a much higher price
binding,
is

if

the glazed coat

42

THE HARNESS-MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

than that known as splits. With the thinner quathere is some advantage in using the grain, as the surface preserves its original appearance much better after being worked than does split
lities

stock for winker and skirting, however, the grain does not possess any special merit, except what it may gain from not being put through the splitting-machine, as thin hides are selected, and
;

they are reduced to a uniform thickness by the knife. The varnish is applied to the flesh sides, and
is

stock.

therefore open to the same objections as to split The prejudice against the latter is a senseit

and harness-makers pay dearly for yieldand selecting grain stock at higher rates. Enamel leather is always made of the grain side, and its quality must be determined by its softness to the touch, purity of color, and fineness of finish. The prices of patent leather vary to an extent that creates surprise in the minds of
less one,

ing to

buyers

who

are unacquaijated with the causes.

very commencement. In may be of an the first When they are limed and preinferior quality. pared for the tanner, they may be placed strong hemlock liquors and partially .tanned, after which they- are split and then retanned in oak liquor for the purpose of producing a light They are also submitted to various manicolor. pulations, unknown to any but the initiated, for the purpose of giving a good appearance to the leather without increasing the expense, which in ^o way improves the quality. After being otherr

These

exist

from

the,

place,. the hides themselves

wise prepared for the varnish, the hides are placed upon a frame, and by means of powerful jack-screws stretched to their utmost extent, whereby an increased measurement of from five They are then to seven feet is given to each. glazed and finished to look as well as prime stock, and can be sold at a marked reduction in price compared with the former; but the buyer who imagines he has saved two cents a foot by purchasing these hides pays for five or seven feet of leather, the greater part of which is sure to be lost, in a few months, by shrinkage. The worst
feature of this excessive stretching
leather, being
is

that the

utmost capacity while wet, can not be worked smooth when used over irregular shapes, as all the stretch is taken out of it while being manufactured. This cheap
extended to
its

stock therefore costs nearly as

qualities, is

much

as the best

more difficult to work, and is less durable when put to actual use. The care of
patent leather in stock in order to prevent loss When a matter of considerable importance.

is

practicable, all thick stock should be

hung up

in

a cool, dry room, while thin stock, both enamelled

rolled, thin paper being placed next to the glazed surface. There is another matter that is well worthy the attention of buyers namely, the season in the year when the leather is made, this having much to do with its durability. The best leather is produced in cool weather, the poorest during the hot months of July and

and smooth, should be

44

THE harness-makers' iXLirSrRATED MANt/At.

August.

The
sticky

latter is

become
is

somewhat less liable to when exposed to the sun, but it

almost sure to crack during cold weather, sometimes when not in use, and there are very few leather-manufacturers who are willing to warrant stock not made in cold weather. Harnessmanufacturers should therefore look well to this matter, as cracked patent leather destroys the appearance of their work.

CHAPTER

IV.

CUTTING HARNESS.

THE
of the

cutting of harness leather so as to avoid waste, and to secure that best suited to the requirements of each individual strap is a subject
first importance to every harness-maker, no matter what the extent of his business may be. Leather scraps are of no value, though every piece has been paid for, while the use of the softest and weakest part of the leather in straps that

receive the greatest

amount of

strain insures the

it

production of
well

ari

inferior harness, be

ever so
of,

made
for,

up.

The

cutter therefore lays the founhis skill

dation

and upon

depends much

the manufacturer's success.

this is well

In large factories

understood, and the most skilful men employed at high wages to cut up stock. These cutters are of necessity governed by the grade of harness and kind of stock used, and are guided solely by their own judgment, there being
are

no general rule that can be applied to each individual case. The small manufacturer, however, is differently situated, and by following rules that

have been adopted by those who have had years of experience in the best shops of the country, he

46

THE HARffESS-MAKERs' ILLlTSTRArEiy MAKUAt:

will not only save stock, but

produce much more

his leather

durable harness.
in

three forms,

The cutter receives known to the trade

;

as weight

trimmed stock, and backs these are illu-strated by Fig. I. The extreme outline shows the
stock, side in full
;

this is sold as

weight stock

that

is,

by

its

actual weight at the time of purchase.

The

dotted line commencing at the root of the tail and passing down the back end, along the belly and up the front to the top, shows the general form of the hide after being trimmed, though in some cases the trimming consists of merely cutting off a few of the most prominent points and slightly straightening" the edges. The dotted line A, running parallel with the length of the hide, indicates the bottom line of what is known as the back (the width of which is governed by the condition of the hide itself), the line of separation being drawn just above the thin portion of the flank, the position of which is shown by the dotted line B, the ends being trimmed the same as in

trimmed

stock.

A harness-maker who does a srtiall

business of

a general nature will find it most profitable to buy weight stock of the best quality he can then crop it, as it is called that is, cut the side in two parts at or about the line A. This will give him three straight edges to work from in cutting out straps for repairing and other small jobs, ob;

viating the necessity of splitting his leather to obtain straps for the requisite thickness, and also

avoiding the spoiling of a trace or rein by cutting a

Ct/TTING HARNESS.

4r

dS

THi;

harness-makers' ILLt/STRATED MANX/AL.

small strap from the back, as he would be compelled to do under other circumstances. In cut-

one point that should not be overlooked, namely, to avoid as far as possible the use of the splitting-machine to reduce the straps to
ting, there is

This machine materially laborofthe workman, but it is positively injurious to the leather, and should not be used when it is possible to dispense with it. For small straps the spokeshave works nearly if not
the required thickness.
facilitates the

quite as expeditiously, and

is

in

no way injurious.
If one,

The
hide
it is

cutter

must

first

ascertain the actual con-

dition of the hide he proposes to cut up.

to be used exclusively for a single harness,

free

must be of good quality, uniform thickness, and from blemishes but if a number of harness
;

are to be cut at one time, the sides should be

and most uniform in thickness being used for traces, reins, etc., but those having thick butts and thin shoulders should be cut up
selected, the finest
in short straps, in the

manner shown by

Fig.

i.

The dotted
edge.
line is

represents the straightened If the back for a few inches below this of suitable thickness for traces, that porline
it

between C and D may be used for this and all the back end between D and A, purpose, back of E, be cut up for short, heavy straps, such
tion of

as hold-backs, martingales, breast-straps, etc., for

express or team harness, and shaft girth-billets, back-bands, breeching-straps, etc., for carThe shoulder forward of the line riage-harness.
E, being thin,
is

admirably adapted to docks, and

CtlTTING

HARNESS.

49

should be cut as shown by lines X. Being cut work up smoothly on the inside, the few wrinkles that are formed by bending being easily rubbed out. The remaining portion of the side, such as bellies, etc., be cut into folds and linings, and the short, firm pieces into buckle-chapes and short billets, thus utilizing every part. To cut a single harness out of a side of leather requires an entirely different process, which will be explained in detail, the side with the different sections being shown by Fig. 2. A side for this purpose if of closely trimmed stock should weigh about sixteen pounds, the rough brand being seventeen or eighteen. The back should first be straightened as shown by the dotted line A, which should be drawn as nearly as possible on a line parallel with the centre of the back-bone. It may be necessary to waste a little stock to do this, but the advantage of having the fibre of the side parallel with the edges of the straps will more than repay the loss
across the grain, they

occasioned.
of the tail as

Having straightened the centre cut shown by line i, then measure off

from line i the full length required for the traces and reins, cut in line 2 of the same depth as line I, and cut the requisite straps for these parts. This will leave the back perfectly straight, unless, as sometimes occurs, the side from the root of the tail is shaped like that shown. In this case, straighten the new line by cutting off the small piece back of line i, and cut the straight cross-

50
line

THE HARNESS-MAKe'Rs' IttUStRX-TED MaNI/AL.

3, then measure from the back end the length required for the breeching-straps, and cut these from B. This will leave the edge with a jag at line 4, which should be straightened before cutting any other straps from the back end. It may be well to state at this point that keeping a straight edge the full length of the side, and cutting the cross-lines no deeper than absolutely necessary to release the straps, are two important considerations, which if not observed will result in no little waste of leather. very common fault of the cutters, and one that should be carefully guarded against, is the holding of the knife af an acute angle, and cutting from the under side, allowing it to cut into the side of leather in order to release the end of the strap previously slit off. The offset C, forward of the cross-line 4, can be cut up into layers for girths. These being removed, the edge is once more straight, and the cutter should measure off from the back end section the requisite length for the turn-back or hipstraps, cutting in on line 5, the same lengths

answering for shaft tug-billets and back-bands, giving a pair of each by cutting in the middle. may be cut up into breast colSections H and

lar-layers, crown-pieces, breeching-layers, neck-

straps, nose-pieces, martingale-layers, etc., and,

if

not too heavy, into check-pieces, throat-latches, and centre check-pieces in the order named. Section E should be cut into straps that require rounding, such as checks, round throat-latches,
etc.,

and section

into

linings

and points.

52

THE HARNESS-MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

always measuring from the back end, and retaining the head and neck part that is left in as large a piece as possible. By this time all the heaviest straps are provided for and the best portion cut up. The section X, indicated by the dotted line, represents the thin, baggy flank, which should not be cut up into straps, but can be used Secto good advantage for linings to winkers. tion P, back of this, is just what is required for winker-braces, the back end being thick, the
leather gradually growing thinner as the flank is approached. All that part of the side forward of the flank, and below section K, can be worked up
into folds, cutting

neck-straps, belly-bands, and

the breeching, breast-collar, crowns in the order

named. The thick end back of the flank, and below section P, can be cut up into buckle-chapes, short billets, etc., while the thin ends and other irregular-shaped pieces can be used to good advantage for linings for tabs, etc. It is not. claimed that this system of cutting can be strictly carried out in all cases, but by following the
general order given, the cutter will be sure of securing just such leather as is needed for the particular straps named, and will at the same time avoid all unnecessary waste. Certain defects in the side may necessitate slight changes in the section indicated for certain straps, but when the blemishes are removed the regular order given should be followed, providing that the straps requiring great strength are not crowded below
the line

in Fig.

i.

CHAPTER

V.

PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.

the manufacture of fine harness, where the IN straps are to be worked up full and to artistic

patterns, the best quality of oak leather should

as,
it it

being well curried, the manner of complicated than when commoner grades are employed. The reason tor this is, that only the firm portion of the leather is used, the bellies, flanks, etc., being cut all off, leaving a narrow strip called the back, from eighteen to twenty-two inches wide. This leather requires to be moistened with a sponge and water, but there are few harness-makers who wet it to any considerable extent. The practice, however, ol one of the leading manufacturers of this country is to place all the straps in a vat of water, allowing them to remain immersed until the grain

be used,

working

is

less

shows signs of the tallow coming to the surface. They are then removed, wiped, and hung up
until the surface moisture
is

dried

off,

when they
whole

are handed over to the

in

fitter,

who

rolls the

a coarse

cloth, afterwards taking

fitting

them out
claimed

one at a time, and

ing

them up.

It is

that this treatment prepares the leather for work-

up much

better than

when

it is

merely damp-

54

THE HARNESS-MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

ened, and that the

the leather.

little oil and grease forced out can easily be replaced without any detriment to

however, condemn this treatment stock, but experience has shown that leather thus manipulated can be worked up into the finest harness, the finish on the grain being soft and clear and the edges smooth, the leather retaining its softness as long z s that which has onl}' been moistened. While there is a
Curriers,
fine,

of

well-finished

marked reduction
it

up,

it is

in the labor necessary in fitting evident that there is something gained

by pursuing this method. There is in the market large quantities of welltanned but poorly-curried stock. This is far preferable to poorly-tanned leather, no matter how well it ma}' be curried, if properly treated by the harness-maker. The right course to pursue with this quality is to soak the leather until it is well moistened to the centre, the length of time necessary varying so greatly with different kinds that it is impossible to. give any other guides than the appearance of the grease on the surface. The " testing-strap" is also sometimes employed. A small scrap of the leather, being soaked, is placed in the water with the straps,

and when the workman thinks the leather is sufficiently wet, he cuts this strap and ascertains whether or not the moisture has penetrated to
the centre.

When

sufficiently wet, the straps are

removed from the vat and hung up until the surface moisture has dried off. Each strap is then

PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.

55

if the leather has been badly spokeshave is used to remove all the superfluous stock. This is done by laying the strap on the bench, grain side down, securing the end with an awl, and with a sharp tool cutting off the loose scraps and thin, veiny portions. Care should be taken, however, to avoid cutting away any more of the flesh side than is absolute-

taken in hand, and

fleshed, a

ly necessary, as the

leather

is

weakened by so

doing. After being cleaned

off",

the leather should

be rubbed on the flesh side with a slicker, and laid out on a board grain side down then with brush give each strap a coat of melted tallow, warm enough to run freely, but not sufficiently hot to injure the leather, and brush it well to work in all the grease possible. Allow the straps to remain coated with tallow for twelve hours at least, by which time the moisture will have dried out and the tallow have struck well into the pores
;

of the leather.
is

No

bad results

will follow if the

allowed to remain a much longer time leather coated with the tallow. After the leather has been in this state a sufficient length of time, each strap must be placed upon a bench, grain side down, and secured in the same manner as before mentioned then with a glass slicker rub the flesh side thoroughly, working in all the grease possible, the surplus being removed by the slicker. Tlien turn the strap over, and rub down the other side to set the grain and give it a fine appearance. If the straps are to be worked up full, it will
;

56

THE harness-makers' illustrated manual.

not be necessary to rub the grain side much, as the rubbing incident to the process of fitting up will give it a fine finish. This recurrying is not done solely with a view of improving the

appearance of the leather, though this alone would fully compensate the manufacturer for his trouble, the treatment being equally beneficial to its wearing qualities, as the leather is made more dense by the rubbing it receives, while the grease is worked thoroughly into every fibre, causing it to become soft and flexible. With ordinary leather, this recurrying will reduce it in thickness nearly one third without a particle of its original substance being removed.

The good effect is not so marked upon poorlytanned leather as it is on that which is well tanned but poorly curried, but the improvement in the wearing qualities and appearance is sufficient to
make
tion.
it

profitable to

expend labor

in this direc-

The leather used for single-strap track-harness should always be rubbed on the flesh side as has been directed, in order to give a fine, smooth, and perfect finish, which, after being blacked, will make the flesh nearly equal to the grain side. Besides this, the increased density given to the leather makes it possible to trim the edges
smoothly and_ finish them as finely as the grain, and as this latter consideration is one of great importance to all who desire the harness to appear smooth and true, they will find it greatly to their advantage to follow the above directions

PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.

57

when preparing could be made

harness neater than is generally the case if the same course were followed in the treatment of the leather as recomtheir leather.

Common

to appear

much

mended

for fine grades, but as the prices are usually such as to render the carrying out of this system unprofitable, the leather can be fitted up

without extra labor, the straps being moistened into a pail of water, or by using a sponge. With this kind of stock, no more water should be used than is absolutely necessary to cause it to work up well.

by dipping them

CHAPTER

VI.

MEASURING FOR HARNESS.

AVERY large percentage of

all

the harness-

makers in this country look upon the idea of measuring a horse as unworthy their consideration, but the experience and observation of the most enterprising men in the custom trade

why there harness in use is because of the failure of so large a number in the trade to adopt the same common-sense rules which govern other mechanics. There are some straps which can be lengthened or shortened to accommodate them to the size and form of the horse with out detriment but the principal ones can not be so changed, and if not made of a proper length at first they seriously interfere with the appearance as well as the durability of the harness. Prominent among the latter is the hame tug, whether it be for a short or long tug harness. If for a long tug, the length must be such that when the collar is well down upon the shoulder, the market tug will follow a line parallel with the center of the pad side if this position is not maintained, an unnecessary strain is thrown upon the swivel, or loop in the end of the pad top, and the pad itself will be likely to be drawn out of
has convinced

them

that the reason

are so

many

ill

fitting

MEASURING FOR HARNESS.

59

shape and the appearance of the harness be marred. With short tugs the result is quite as injurious if the tug is sufficiently long to allow the trace buckle to come in contact with the pad trace bearer on a double harness, and the buckle on the back band of a single harness, injury will be done to these straps, or to the hame tug itself.
;

It naturally follows, therefore, that the length of the horse from the collar to the girth is an im-

portant consideration.

With breast collar harness the length of the body is equally as important as the length of the hame tug on the hame collar the position of the
;

neck strap tugs has much to do with the set of the collar and the wear of the harness. If the
tugs are set too far back, the collar will sag in front so as to interfere with the movement of the
it will be necessary to shorten the neck such an extent that an undue strain will strap to be thrown upon it at the neck strap tug when

horse, or

the trace

is

straightened.

The proper length for the breeching body, winker brace, cheek straps, girths, etc., are of equal .importance; while the point of attaching
the hip strap to the turnback, the front to the cheek pieces, and the position of the winkers, all

contribute

much

to the durability as well as the

;

appearance of the harness yet there are those who ridicule the whole idea of measuring, 'they depending entirely upon lengthening or shortening such straps as can be adjusted by the use of
buckles.

6o

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Manufacturers

who

carry on an extended busi-

ness and ship goods to all parts of the country can not measure every horse they have accord;

ingly adopted a set of lengths for each class, based upon the size of horse upon which they are
to be used.
If a

coach harness

is

to be

made,

it is

to be for horses sixteen hands, or over, high,

is

supposed and

to

cut to those lengths that experience has shown be the most correct for such sized animals.

If a double road harness is ordered, it is made from lengths suitable for horses fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while an order for a light phaeton harness would be filled by cutting from the scale of lengths adapted to horses fourteen or fourteen and a half hands high. A light track harness is cut to fit a horse fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while one for a coupe would be cut from the lengths suited to horses sixteen Regular buggy to sixteen and a half hands high. harness for common use are cut with traces and other straps running lengthwise to fit horses fifteen hands high, but girths, etc., are cut for hea-

vier animals.

The lengths used by these houses have been determined by close observation, and are as nearly correct as can be expected. Another rule is based upon the lengths suited to a fifteen-hand horse, adding or subtracting four inche.'* to girths, one and one half inches to breast and breeching bodies, and three inches to *^ip and

MEASURING FOR HARNESS.

6l

neck straps, for every hand increase or decrease

in the size of the horse.

Such tables are always valuable to harnessmakers who are making up stock, and by a little observation may be made to answer perfectly for but custom makers who do different localities not possess these scales of lengths should measure the horses for which the harness is to be made if they hope to succeed in having it fit well. In measuring for a bridle, ascertain the length from the corner of the mouth to one inch below the root of the ear, and add enough to this for
;

the lap to secure the buckle to the top of the cheek piece, and also two thirds the original

length

this will give a

to allow the loose

cheek piece long enough end to enter into the cheek

;

its length for the crown measure from the root of the ear on one side, over the head to the root of the ear on the other side, and add five or six inches to each end for the cheek and throat latch billets for throat latch, measure from a point two inches below the root of the ear, around the throat, to the corresponding point on the other side for the neck strap to a breast collar, pass the measure over the neck just forward of the highest point of the

loop about one half

piece,

to

withers, carrying the ends forward three inches a point parallel with the point where the
;

determine the position of the tugs by measuring around the breast from the points designated by the ends of the neck
strap.

throat enters the breast

To

determine the length of the breast

62

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

measure from a point four inches above the elbow on one side, around the breast just below where the throat enters the breast, to a corresponding point on the other side. The girth measure must also be taken.
collar,
If the

harness

is

to be

made up with

a long tug

and market tug, designate the exact location of the centre of the girth, and measure from the end of the hame draft eye to the point designated as the centre of the girth, and deduct from this the length of the buckle back of the centre of the loop. See that the collar sets well back in its place when measuring for the tug, as the proper length of this strap is of the greatest importance if it is too long or too short, the market tug will not occupy its proper position, and thereby detract much from the appearance of the harness. In measuring for the breeching, draw the line around the buttock from a point just above the stifle to a corresponding position on the opposite side, and allow one inch for slack for hip straps, measure from a point ten inches forward of the crupper down to the pomt occupied by the body of the breeching, and deduct three inches
;

for the

breeching tugs.

a well-assorted lengths of the strapping for various kinds of harness need not measure the horse to be fitted except in special cases. set of lengths which are suited to horses in one locality may be in part unsui-ted to those of another, owing to the difference in their build, and it would be >veU
table of

The harness-maker who has

MEASURING fOK HARNfiSS.

in all cases to test the

6^

lengths furnished before

adopting them in full. In preparing the tables of lengths and widths in this work, the author has aimed to secure those which have proved correct, and, while not claiming infallibility, he believes they are as near perfect as any tables of this kind can be.

They represent

a variety of styles suited to the

fol-

wants of all classes of customers, and can be lowed with safety.

CHAPTER
No.
I.

VII.

Single Strap Track Harness.

BRIDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.
I

Crown
Cheeks Throat latch
Front

23

27 30
21 12 7
5
i

^ ^ f

Winker

strap
Split
Billet

f ^
i

Half Kemble Jackson check

Split

25
T2

I-

Gag

rein

Center piece
Billets

24 60
10

f f

SADDLE.

Tree
Flaps Swell Points

2i|-

2^ 2f
|.

_.^
9

Jockeys

4^

2f

SINGLE StRAP TRACK

rfARlsTESS.

65
Width,
inches.

Length,
inches.

Belly band

i8 7

if

Chapes
Shaft girth
Billets

^
2

29 22 20
18

I |

Back bands
Shaft tugs Safety strap

^
i

45
32
11

Martingale, body

if

Bottom lay Ring piece, round.

BREAST-COLLAR.

f
-^-^

17

Body Neck

35

2
i

piece

38
7

Ends Chapes
Traces Lap, on breast collar

J f f

83
11

BREECHING.

Body
Layers

38
13

i^

Hip

strap

43
11

Tugs, round

Chapes Turnback
Body...."

7
:

44
14

ri,

f ^ ^ f
li

Dock
Reins
,

72

3^ ^
i

Hand

parts

84

Nd.

i.

Single Road Harness

One-Inch

Trace.
Width,
inches.

BRIDLE.
Length,
inches.

Crown

layer

23

Cheek pieces Winker strap

Billet
Split, flat

27
12
5
1

f ^ I f 4 f ^ f J ^

Winkers
Front Throat latch

4^
21

Gag

reins

30 24

Center piece
Billets

60
ID

BREAST-COLLAR.

Layer and trace

in

one

Neck

piece

89 48

saddle.

Tree
Flaps Swell

2^ 21^

if 2

Jockeys

3f

if

SINGLE gOAD HARNESS

ONE-INCH

"fRACE.
Length,
inches.

67
Width,
inches.

Points

12

Back bands
Shaft tugs

20
19

Belly band Shaft girth

Billets

22

28 22 41
19

^ f |

Martingale

Bottom

lay

f f f

BREECHING.

Breeching layer

45 45
11

Hip

strap

Breeching tugs, round Buckle chapes Breeching straps

48

Turnback

44
15 3

f f f f f f f
ij

Dock
Reins,
flat

72

Hand

parts

84

FOLDS.

Crown
Breast collar

II

2f
3f 2f
3 3

Neck

strap

39 26
16

Belly band Shaft girth Martingale

28
32

2f
3^

Breeching

36

No.

3.

Single Harness (Breast Collar).

BRIDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.
i-|-

Crown

piece
Billets

23

6
29 28
12

Cheeks Throat latch

Front,

^
|-

made up

Winkers Winker brace

Billet
Split,

4i
13

f 4I
i
I-

5i

round

Checks
Billets

7^ 23

Center piece

9 60

I i |

breast-collar.

Body

layer
at ends

44
i

Neck straps
at ends

40
7

Tugs
Traces

f f I
i

78

SINGLE HARNESS (bREAST COLLAr).

6g

GIG SADDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Tree
Flaps
Points

3
2i|-

2f

9
3I
21 21
i I

f
2^

Jockeys Back bands

Shaft tugs

Belly band
Shaft girth
Billets

22
28

f |
I
i

20
42
19

Martingale

Bottom
BREECHING.

Body layer Hip strap

Breeching tugs, round Buckle chapes Breeching straps Turnback

46 44
11

f ^
-J
4.

48

44
8

|-

Body
Split

li

I
3

Crupper dock
FOLDS.

17^

Neck

Breast collar piece

36

24
37
17

2|
3

Breeching body Belly band

Shaft girth

2|

28

Martingale

34

2f 2I

No.

4.

Single Harness (Hame Collar).

BRIDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Crown

piece
Split.'

23

6
27
28
21 12
5

Cheeks Throat latch Front

f I f f I
i^

Winker

strap
Billet
Split,

I
f I
I

rounded

Check

reins
Billets

23

Center piece

8^ 60

HAMES, ETC.

Hame Hame
Traces

tugs
straps, short
long-

13

^i

17

20 80

f I
i^

GIG SADDLE.

Tree
Flaps....

3i 20

3^

SINGLE HARNESS (hAME COLLAr).

Length,
inches.

71
Width,
inches.

Points

14

S
i I

Back

straps

Shaft tugs

20 20
22

Belly band
Shaft girth
Billets

|
-J

30 22
35 19

I
^ ^
i^

Martingale

Bottom lay Ring piece

Split

20
16

BREECHING.

Body
Breeching straps

44 49
12

Tugs
Hip strap Turnback
at hip

44 44
18

f | f
^^
3

Crupper
FOLDS.

Crown
Belly band

12 17

2^
3 3
3

Shaft girth Martingale

28
33
,

Breeching

37

3^

No.

5.

Heavy Coupe Harness.

BRIDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches

Crown
Layer, cut to pattern

23

Cheeks
Front

9 30
22
13
S

if i^

f
I

Winker

straps
Billets

i^

Split

Winkers Nose piece Ends

8J 6

f i 5J
ij

30
at cheeks

Throat latch Round check

Billets

24
28
10

f f ^

Center check SADDLE.

72

Tree Flap Swell

Point

4
22
12
5

3I

4
I

Jockey Back band (running)

Shaft tugs

3^
ij if i^

Belly band

46 24 26

HEAVY COUPE HARNESS.

Length,
inches.

73
Width,
inches.
i I

Shaft girth
Billets

30
23

Martingale

34
lay
21

Bottom

HAMES, TRACES.

Hames, 4 pounds

f
10^
ij

Hame

tug,

made up

Safes, full length

2^

Loops
Traces

4i
72
i

BREECHING.

Body layer Hip straps

Center Swell
Split

52

48
ij
2 16
II

Tugs
Breeching strap

50

Turnback

Body
Split

60 20
9
19

I f ^ ^
if

f
3J.
i

Dock
Kidney strap Ornament
FOLDS.

34
3J

Breeching
Belly band
Shaft girth

46
17

3|.

3^ 3^

19

No.

6.

Double Road Harness, without Breeching.

BRIDLES.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Crown
Cheeks

pieces

23

Layer,

waved

29
8

Gag

runners
straps

Throat latches

26
12 8

f ^ ^ f
ij

Winker

Spht
Billets

I i
4l f

Winkers
Fronts

si 30
23

Checks
Center parts
Billets

60
10

f ^

HAMES AND TRACES.

Hames

^
24
i

Hame Hame

straps

f
li

tugs
Safes
13

Loops Ends
Traces Spread straps Link
PADS.

4f
si

80
18

i
-J

Top
Sides
Points

17
18
8

if li

i
i

Trace bearers

16

DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING.

Length,
inches.

75
Width,
inches.

Housings Belly bands Turnback

24
23

2f

44
9
14
3

f f
if

Body
.

Split

f f 4
i|-

Docks
Standing martingales Chin parts Short reins, rounded

64
12 55

Long reins, rounded Hand parts

72 102

i^

i^

BREAST COLLARS FOR PATENT YOKE.

Body
Loops

layers

40 4I
43

i
I

Neck

straps
Split,

i|-^

long ends short ends

17J
i4|-

^
|-

Tugs, short Tugs, long Billets on yokes

2^

2f 6
11

^ ^
i^
i

Yoke

straps

Martingale
Billets

20
12

f
-f

Safety straps

36

FOLDS.
Belly bands Breast collars
17

3^

41
8

Neck

straps

4 4
3^

Martingales

32

No.

7.

Short Tug Coach Harness, without

Breeching.
BRIDLES.
Length,
incHes.

Width,
inches.

Crown
Cheeks
Fronts,

pieces

22

if

28

f
li

made up

13

Throat latch

23
13

f
li

Winker brace
Split, flat

Billet

ends
8

Gag

runners

f f f
5^

Winkers Cheek loops Check reins

Center pieces
PADS.

5I

7i
22

-^

60

Tops At

17

bilge

2f
if

Center
Side pieces Trace bearers Lining Point
26
16
13

if ij if

10

SHORT TUG COACH HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING. 77

Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Belly bands Martingales

24
28 16
13

Bottoms
Billets

Standing martingales

60
17

Mouth
Turnbacks

pieces

44
9 66
18

% f I f f f f
if

At docks
Split

Hip straps Dock

i f 2^

HAMES AND TRACES.

Hames

f
16
13

Hame Hame

tugs

ij

Bottoms Loops
straps

2^

4I
28
81

f
li

Traces Spread straps

FOLDS.
Belly bands Martingales

16

16

3^
3-^

30

No.

8.

Long Tug Coach Harness.

BRIDLES.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Crown

pieces

23

if

Layers

9 29
12

Cheeks Face pieces Ornaments Nose pieces Ends Throat latches Winkers Checks for swivel
Plain

f f
2

4i
14

ij

26

f f
SJ
|-

6^
30
23
8

Crown

piece billets

Center check*

60

I f f

HAMES AND TRACES.

Hames

Hame

tugs,

made up
'.

16^
8

f J

Safe

2^
84
i^

Loops
Traces
PADS.

Top
Center Swell

i6|-

ij

2f 21^
3J
5

Housings Center
Swell

Pad

sides
* Other straps same as in No.

26
10
7.

i|
1

Points

LONG TUG COACH HARNESS.

Length,
inches.

79
Width,
inches.

Market straps
Swell Market tugs

20

li

20

Loops
Belly band, short
23I-

4^
-J

long

35

Martingales

27
18

-J
-f-

Spread straps

Hame
Layers

straps

28

f
^i

BREECHINGS.
S3
13

Tugs Loops Hip straps

Centers

4
27
i|-

Ornaments
Split

2^
19

Turnbacks Bodies Layers

32J
19
12
8
171-

i f
2

f
-I

Crupper Docks

billets

Si-

Short reins

84
55

i^

Rounded
Long
reins

84
72 108

i^ ij

Rounded

Hand

parts

FOLDS.
Belly band, short long
17

3i
3i

20
32

Martingales Breechings

4^

No.

9.

English Four-in-Hand Harness.

BRIDLES.
Lengthy
inches.

Width,
inches.

Crown
Cheeks

pieces

23
2

if

Chapes
Billets

10^
16

Throat latches Nose bands, middle Buckle-ends

27
12^
13
i

f f i f

f
i^

Winker

straps
Split

14

8i
13 13

Face pieces
Fronts Winkers, square Bearing reins

if

6^

6^

66
2a| 26
9
PADS, ETC.
17

f
li i^

Round

reins

Running bradoons
Billets

Tops Bottoms
Point straps Girths Girth pieces Girth straps

21^
8

2^
i-^

42
15

2} 2^
i^
1^

16

Tug

belly bands

52

BREECHINGS, ETC.
Bodies
120
li

Hip

straps

48

i^

ENGLISH FOUR-IN-HAND HARNESS.

Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Breeching tugs Trace bearers Turnbacks Layers

Linings

13

i^
i|i

18

45
14

1
8

Cruppers

59 22
16

li
1^
3

Docks
TRACES, ETC.
Traces, made up Draw leathers

78
8
19I-

li i^ i|
3

Hame

tugs
Safes

22
ID
18

At hame end
Short tugs

li

Tug

straps

f
if 1^
i|i|-

Bearing martingales Short martingales Leader traces, made up

54 42

60
18

Hame

tugs
Safes

20^

All other leader strapping, narrower

than wheelers
REINS.

Wheeler
Couplings
Billets

13 feet

1^ li

9
I

"

foot li
i|-

Hand

parts

6 feet 22
"

Leader reins

i^

No.

lo.

Tandem Harness. Lead-Horse.

BRIDLE.
Leneth,
inches.

Width,
inches.
i;|.

Crown

piece

23
7

Layer
Cheeks Throat strap

29 26
12

|-^

Winker

strap
Split

i^

8
5

Winker Check for swivel

Billets

5^

28

9
13

Front,

made up

Center check Reins

60
175

f I ^ f ^

pad and long tugs.

Top
Housing
Sides Points

17

If

24
17
12

3f
i^

Market tug chapes Market tug billets

Belly band, fold

20 20
17

f f
|-

3^

Layer

23

TANDEM HARNESS.

LEAD-HORSE.
Length,
inches.

8^
Width,
inches.

Turnback

44
8
12
3

|
i^

Body
Split

Dock

Hame
Traces

tugs

161

i^

90
56

i^

Trace bearers
GIG SADDLE

AND SHORT TUGS.

4
22
10
17
13
i

Tree
Flaps Points

2i

Trace bearers

^
i^

Hame
Traces

tugs

92

i^

SHAFT-HORSE.
Bridle cut ^ of an inch heavier than that for
lead-horse, the lengths being the
out.

same through-

SADDLE.
-Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Tree
Flaps

23
swell

4i
S|-

At
Points

10

i^

All other parts cut to the

as

same measurements those of the Coupe harness, No. 5.

No.

II.

Medium Weight Single Express Harness.

BRIDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width
inches.

Crown

piece

24
30 22
22
13

i^

Cheeks Throat latch Front Winker brace

Split

f f ^
ij

8 7 16

Rounded

Gag

runners
Split

f
ij

Face pieces

26
10

Check

reins
Billets

22 10

Center Winkers, square

GIG SADDLE.

60
5

f |

Tree
Skirts,

width to

suit tree
'

22
12 18
I

Points Belly band, fold

MEDIUM WEIGHT SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS.

Length,
inches.

85
Widlh,
inches.

Shaft girth, fold

22
7

Chapes
Shaft tugs
Billets

li if li ij i^

20
14

Carriers for saddle

20 20

Hame tugs Hame straps

Traces

20 74

i
ij

BREECHING.

Body

fold

38

Layer Breeching straps

46 48
12

1^
li
I

Tugs

Mip

strap
Split

44 20
22

Carrying straps

f
i

Turnback Layer Crupper body

Split

44
9
18

ij

8
15

Crupper dock

2^

No.

T2.

Heavy Single Express Harness.

BRIDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Crown

piece

22

it
|

Cheeks Throat latch

Front

29
25

f
I

30
12

Made up
Winker
strap
Split
Billet

12^
715

Nose piece Checks

Center piece

13

23

60
5^
5

I f f ^

Winkers

hames and traces.

Hames

^
11

Hame
Traces

tugs

i^

Loops

4
72
i|^
i

Hame

strap, long

23
,

short

17

HEAVY SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS.

Sj

SADDLE.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Tree
Flaps
Jockies Points

6
22
sJ 5J

6
10
...

Back

straps
Billets

22

li i^
i^ li ij ij
i I

Shaft tugs

26
14
8

Chapes, long belly band

short belly band

Martingale
Billet

29
14

BREECHING.

Layer

48 9 48

i^
I

Tugs Hip straps Turnback

i
i

46
16

Dock
Breeching straps Reins
FOLDS.

58

ij
I

Breeching
Belly band, short

41
17

long
Martingale

22
32

4^ 4^ 4^
2^

Turnback

22

No.

13.

Long Tug Team Harness, Soft Pad.

BRIDLES.
Length,
inches.

Width,
incheei.
T 5

Crown

pieces
Split

24
7
billets

Cheek
Cheeks
Fronts
fitted

-J

Throat latch

billets

f
30 24 16^
15
|-

f
i|-

up
rounded

Winker

straps

9
22
II

Face pieces
Split

i^

Throat latches Winkers

Inside checks

24
5|

f
Si

Outside checks
Billets

60 26
10

f f f
if
li

PADS, ETC.

Tops Ends Ring pieces

Center rounded

22

26
S

1^

LONG TUG TEAM HARNESS, SOFT PAD.

Leivgth, inches.

89
Width,
inches.

Nut

pieces

i8

if

Skirt straps

32

i^
if

Back strap
Split

60
52
.

Chapes
Layers

9
12

if ij

BREECHING.
Folds Layers

44
54
for lead

ij

Chapes
Layers

up

6^
11

f
i i

Side straps

68

Lazy straps
TRACES, ETC.
Traces, fitted

44

up
up

72
18

if if

Hame

tugs, fitted
Billets

16
18 7

4
5^
i^

Belly band folds

Chapes
Pole straps Breast straps, Collar straps

54

if

66
32

if
i
i

Hame

straps,

bottom
top

26
28

No.

14.

Long Tug Farm Harness.

BRIDLES.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Crown
Cheeks

pieces

24
split

li
5 g" 5
"S"

Ends
Bit straps

7^
17
1

1|-

Throat

latches, long

13
II

short

| f I
li
1|-

Winker

straps
Split, flat

13

8 8
S

round
Billet

I
ij
i

Fronts

12

Face pieces
Split

22
10
7

rounded Checks rounded Center

Billets

24
15

I
| 8i

60

LONG TUG FARM HARNESS.

PADS, TRACES, ETC.

Length,
inches.

Width,
inches-

Pad

tops, soft

pad

36
50
16
21

X
4

Layers
Billets

i^^

li
5

Belly band fold

Billets

14
17

ij

Hame
Traces

tugs
straps, long

J^
i|i

Hame

72 22

short

20
52
52

Holdbacks
Breast straps

i^ i^
i

Turnbacks Crupper bodies Docks

Billets

36
17

ij
3

14

Lines
Billets

I ^ I

No.

15.

Wagon Harness with Adjustable

BRIDLES.

Trees.

Length,
inches.

Widtl
inches

Crown
Cheeks Throat
Fronts

pieces
Split at ends

24 if 6 ^ and |30 20
12
-J

latches, .long

short

f f
-^

22
reins

Round

22 16

rounded Center pieces

60
11
i

f 4

Winker brace Winker, wing pattern

PADS, ETC.

Hame
Pad

tugs

36

i^^

With cockeyes and chains

Adjustable trees, No.
skirt
6.

76
16

3^
ij

Layer, also to line billets

Billets

20
16
18 18

i^

Bottoms
Belly band folds

6
5

Chapes
Billets

7 16

i^

ij

WAGON HARNESS WITH ADJUSTABLE

BREECHING.

TREES.

93

Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Body

folds

39

Layers

48
12

i;^

Tugs
Side straps

72

I ^
i

Hip

straps
Split

26 20
16
8

Crupper body
Split

i|-

Back

straps, to

Dock, folded sew in rump rings.

14

2^
i

42
56 50 22

Breast straps

i^
i|-J

Holdbacks Hame and carrying straps

TRIMMINGS.'
2 pairs 2 bits,

common low

top

wooden

haraes,

4 i|-inch cockeyes, 6 i|-inch breeching rings, 4 i-inch 4 1-inch

2 i|^-inch "

"

12 i|-inch buckles,
" " "

20 f-inch
16 |-inch

4 i^-inch trace buckles, 4 gag swivels.

No.

i6.

Adjustable Pad Double Harness, to be USED also as Single Harness.

BRIDLES.
Lensstli,

Width,
inches.

inches.

Crown

piece
Split

24 7i
16

i^^

f
|-

Cheek pieces
Bit straps

10

f
i

Fronts

22

Throat straps Face pieces

Split

20
23 loj
13
i

|-

Winker braces
Split,

rounded

Winkers Check reins

Center pieces

4f
22 56

4^ ^
|.

"^
Skirts

ADJUSTABLE PADS.
20
14
I

Points

Pads Back bands

TRACES, ETC.

6
38
i

Traces

78
10
19

i^ i^
3|.
i

Hame

tugs Belly bands, folded

Chapes

ADJUSTABLE PAD DOUBLE HARNESS.

Length,
inches,

95
Width,
inches.

Martingales, folded
Billets, collar

30
16 10

Points

^ I
i|-

Pole straps

Yoke

straps

48 48

i;^

BREECHINGS.

Body

fold

39
45
12

3|
i^

Layers Tugs, long

short

10

Hip straps Back straps

Reins TRIMMINGS.
2 pair

26 36
78

I I ^ ^
f

low top wood hames,

2 adjustable trees,

4 4

i|^-inch trace buckles,

i;|-inch roller

buckles

for breast

and neck-

straps,

14 i-inch buckles,

6 f-inch 24 -f-inch
"
rings,

4 breeching

8 f-inch rings.

No.

17.

Pennsylvania

Wagon

Harness.

BRIDLES.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.
i
1

Crown
Cheek

pieces
pieces, long billet side

22

short billet side

48 36
39
18
12

i^

i^

Throat latch Nose band

f
i^
i|-

Winker
Front

straps
Split

9 26
5|-

1^
5
i

Winkers Check reins

Bit straps

78
12
'

BREECHING.
Butt pieces
56
58

Hip

pieces

4 4
i^
1^
3

Cross pieces Side straps Braces

62

54 24
,

Hip

straps

z^

i^

PENNSYLVANIA WAGON HARNESS.

Length,
inches.

97
Width,
inches.

Back band Chapes

Short-top stay

46
14
8

4
3
1

Back

strap

66
8 8
15

Split

Chapes, for square on rump.

2
2-^

Dock, folded
Belly band, long side
Billet

34 24
22

i^

It
-J

Carrying straps
I

Tame straps

22

|
5

Chain pipes
TRIMMINGS.

30

2 pair hook hames, high top, 4 trace chains, 4 large rings, or D's, for breeching, 2 bits,
2 i-|-inch

buckles

breast strap,

2 triangles for

rump,

6 i-i-inch buckles,
2

i^inch

"

16 |-inch
2 i-inch

" "

4 |-inch

"

No.

1 8.

Stage Harness.
BRIDLES.
Length,
inches,

Width,
inches.

Crown

pieces
Split

24
7

i^

Cheeks Throat latches

30 22
13

f f
i^

Winker
Front

straps
Split

22
12

i-l

Made up
Reins, in one piece

78

PADS, ETC.

Tops
Points cut

36

i|
i;|-

down
band

to
billets combined
.

Tugs and

belly

30

i^
i

Center piece
Belly band folds

9 20
7

5
i-|.

Chapes
Traces Stay loops, sewed
Breast straps
in the trace

64
12

2
i-|-

56

i,^

STAGK HARNESS.
Length,
inches.

99
Width,
inches.

Holdbacks
Billets

42
15

i|i|i i

Collar straps

30
6 22 22

Chapes

Hame

straps

Carrying straps
BREECHINGS.
Folds Layers

^ ^
5

39 48
12

i^

Tugs
Breeching straps

I
-J-

72

Back straps, or turnbacks Crupper bodies

Split

56
16
8

i^

i^

Dock, folds

14

2|
i

Hip

straps
Split

30 20

TRIMMINGS.
2 pairs

high top Concord hames, with

2 bridle bits, 2 pairs two-foot chains

ends,

14 i;^-inch buckles,
2

i^inch

"

16 |-inch
2 i-inch

"

" "

20 |-inch
6
I

|-inch breeching rings, " 6 i|-inch " i-inch

4 gag swivels.

No.

rg.

Bitting Harness.
BRIDLE.
Length,
inches,

Width,
inches.

Crown
Cheeks

piece
Split

24
7
13

li li

Billets

Throat latch Front Made up Throat latch Swivel strap

9 22

f
I

24
12

22
18

Gag rein,

long side

66
16

f I 1

rounded
short side

24
16

^
12

rounded
Side reins
Billets

42 9
54
15

Martingale to buckle back

Split

ij

Surcingle,
Billets

web

63
16

padded on broad web Chapes

24 6

i i

BITTING

HARNESS.
Length,
inches.

lOI

Width,
inches.
i

Pad layer and

billets

i8

Side chapes Turnback, sewed

21 in

i i

rump

ring

42
16
8

Crupper body
Split

i|-

Dock
TRIMMINGS.
1

16

2^

bit,

2
I

martingale rings,
1

1-inch ring,

3 i-|-inch rings,
5

ij-inch buckles,
" "

ID i-inch
3
S

|-inch

f-inch

In
billet

making up, measure

end of the web

off

24 inches from the

for the center of the pad,

;

which should be 16 inches long sew on the chape for the billet, and turn back the ring across the center of the pad measure off from the center 22 inches on each side for the side check, chapes of ring, and buckles buckle back the rump stay strap with a reverse buckle and
;

slip loops.

No.

20.

Cart Harness,
breeching.
Length,
inches.

Widtk
inches.

Body
Layer, to extend to ring

75

4
2^
i^
ij ij

64
54 14
58 14

Hip

strap

Tugs Kidney strap Tugs Back strap

Safe-piece

ij
i^

34 14
14

4
i|-

Layer or buckle piece

Belly band, long
Billet

60
24
18.

2^ 2^

Bridle same as stage harness, No.

TRIMMINGS.
I

saddle tree,
pair

hook hames, back chain, 2 holdback chains,

I
1

2 trace chains,

2 loop
I

end pins

for breeching,

2^-inch ring for rump,

4 i|-inch rings, 6 i-inch buckles,

8 1-inch
I I I I

2^ inch buckle,
i|-inch
" "
bit.

ij-inch
plain ring

No.

21.

Mule Harness.
BRIDLES.
Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.
1

Crown

pieces

24
7

Split

Cheeks Throat latches

30 22
13 8

^-

f
ij
i^

Winker
Front

straps

Split

22

Reins, in one piece

PADS.

78

Top
Belly band folds

34
18

If
5
i

Chapes
tugs Breeching- fold

Hame
Hip

7 32

i|-

straps
Split

34 24
18

Side straps

62
52
i

-g

Turnback

No.

22.

Short Tug Butt Chain Harness.

Length,
inches.

WidtK
inches.

Hame
Pad

tugs, to

sew

in side

loops

36
52

i^
i|-

Short tugs for chains

fold

20
billet linings

6
ij
i

Layer, to include

48
8

Center lay for back strap Bi idle reins

All other parts the same as No.
16.

78

TRIMMINGS.
2 pairs of
2

common high
bits,

top hames,

common

4 breeching loops for tugs,

of butt chains, 6 if-inch breeching rings,
2 pairs

4 i-inch 4 finch
12 i|-inch buckles,

2 i|-inch

"
" "

20 i-inch
16

finch

4 i^inch trace buckles.

Trimmings for Carriage-Harness^

No. Page
2
1

I.

64.

if or i^inch terrets, bolt-hook to match, -|-inch shaft-tug buckles,

9 |-inch buckles, " 10 |-inch

6 |-inch roller-buckles,
2

gag-swivels,

2 ij-inch 2 ij-inch
1

breeching-rings,
martingale-rings,

half-cheek trotting-snafifle,

2 "l-inch rings,

4 saddle-nails. No.
2.

Page
2 ij-inch terrets,
I I 1

66.

No. 4 bolt-hook, No. 2 fly terret,

front,

2 rosettes, 2 ^-inch shaft-tug buckles, 2 gag-swivels, 2 i-|-inch breeching-rings, 2 ij-inch martingale-rings,

io6

THE harness-makers' illustrated manual.

4 |-inch roller-buckles,
2 |-inch rein-buckles, 8

^inch bridle-buckles,
buckles,
|-inch roller-buckles,

3 -|-inch
5
?.

f-inch buckles,
half-cheek snaffle.

2 f-inch rings,
1

No.

3.

Page
2 if or i^ inch terrets, 1 bolt-hook to match, 2 i-inch trace-buckles,

68.

-inch shaft-tug buckles,

9 ^-inch buckles, 7 |-inch " 5 |-inch

2 -J-inch rein-buckles,

-inch roller-buckles,

2 i|^-inch martingale-rings,
2 i|-inch
1

breeching-rings,

snaffle-bit,

2 gag-swivels, 2 f-inch rings,

4 saddle-nails.
No.
4-

Page
1

70.

pair -L^inch hames,

2 \\
1

or i|-inch terrets, bolt-hook to match,

2 i|-inch trace-buckles.

TRIMMINGS FOR CARRIAGE-HARNESS.

2
I

lO/

-inch shafttug buckles,

4 ^-inch roller-buckles,
3 -l-inch
5

buckles,
"

f-inch

12 |-inch
2
1

gag-swivels,
fly-terret,

2 i|-inch

breeching-rings,

f-inch martingale-rings,

2 rosettes,
I

snaffle-bit.

No.

5.

Page
1

72.

pair |-inch hames,

2 i|
I 1

or i| inch terrets, bolt-hook to match, fly-terret to match,

2 i|^-inch trace-buckles,
2 ij-inch shaft-tug buckles,

4
I

2 i^-inch

-l-inch roller-buckles, "

-^-inch buckle,

6 f-inch buckles,
I I 1

l-inch

"

Hanoverian or

scroll bit,

2 rosettes,
1

2
2

chain or link front, gag-runners (hooks and eyes), i^-inch breeching rings,

2 |-inch rings,

4 saddle-nails.

I08

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

No.

6.

Page
1

74.

pair Jjj-inch hames,

i-^

2 fly

or if inch terrets, or post hooks to match,

2 fly-terrets,

-inch trace-buckles,

8 pad-screws, 6 -|-inch roller-buckles,

4
8

-|-inch
I

"

-inch
"
"

2 4-inch buckles,
2 -|-inch

24

-|-inch

4
2

-|-inch rings,

Hanoverian or

snaffle bits,

2 hame-rings,

4 gag-runners.

No. Page
1

7.

760

pair -|-inch hames,

i-|

2 fly-hooks to

or if inch terrets, match,

2 fly-terrets,

4 i^-inch trace-buckles, 4 -^-inch roller-buckles,

4 |-inch 2 f-inch buckles,
"

4 f-inch 20 |-inch

"
"

TRIMMINGS FOR CARRIAGE-HARNESS.

2 scroll or Hanoverian 4 rosettes, 4 gag-runners,
bits,

IO9

2 hame-rings,
2 crupper-loops,

4 |-inch rings, 8 pad-screws.

No. Page
1

8.

78.

pair |-inch hames,

i|-

or if inch terrets,

2 fly or post hooks, 2 fly-terrets,

4 i^-inch center-bar loop trace-buckles, 4 i-inch tug-buckles,

8 |-inch roller-buckles,

30 f-inch buckles,

finch 4 f inch rings,

8

2 stiff scroll

or Hanoverian

bits,

Bradoon 4 Bradoon
2

bits,

swivels,
links),

4 gag-swivels (hooks ana

2 hame-rings, 12 pad-screws,

2 crupper-loops,

4 pad-loops.
Nos. 9 AND 10. Pages 80 and 82.

The trimmings

for these harness are the

same

as for the regular sets of double or single, with

no

THE HARNESS-MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

the exception of the ring-rosettes for the bridles of the pole or shaft horses.

No.

II.

Page
1

84.

pair ^-inch hames,

2 if -inch terrets,
I 1

post or bolt hook to matcJi,

fly-terret,

2 i|-inch trace-buckles,
2 i-^-inch shaft-tug buckles,

6
5
I

i;|-inch roller-buckles,

i-inch buckles,

f-inch roller-buckle,

14 f inch buckles, 1 plain ring-bit,

2 rosettes, 2 gag-runners, 2 if-inch breeching-rings, 2 martingale-rings,
1

plain front,
saddle-nails.

2 -|-inch rings,

No.

12.

Page
1

86.

pair -J-inch hames,

2 if-inch terrets,
I

post or bolt hook,

fly-terret,

i^inch trace-buckles,

TRIMMINGS FOR CARRIAGE-HARNESS.

2 i^-inch shaft-tug buckles,

Ill

6 i|-inch roller-buckles,

4
I I 1

-inch buckles,

i-inch roller-buckle,

i|-inch buckles,
ring-bit,

2 rosettes, 2 gag-runners, 2 if-inch

I

breech ing-rines.

band-front,
saddle-nails.

CHAPTER

VIII.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.

THE man
;

who periorms

his

work

well and

quickly, possesses a capital which can always

be invested to good advantage to himself and his employer while the lack of the necessary skill and knowledge to accomplish these results acts as In almost every a serious drawback to success. factory there are those who, if they had received

proper instruction when learning their trade, would have made first-class mechanics, but who, because of neglect on their own part, or on that of their instructors, lack confidence in themselves when brought in contact with others, and are content to hold secondary positions, passing through life without benefit to their profession or profit to themselves. Want of system is the great underlying fault, and is the principal reason why success is so seldom attained. The journeyman who works at his bench in a careless, hap-hazard manner can not perform his part well, and is almost certain to interfere with the labor of those near him, while by his example he inculcates in the minds of the apprentices the same disregard for order and system as exhibited
.

MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.

II.'S

all

by himself, thus working a permanent injury tc with whom he comes in contact. There is on the part of mechanics a general disinclination to listen to advice based upon theory, and from a knowledge of this fact the author has prepared the following practical in-

making in its various parts, believing the end sought could better be accomplished in this way than in any other. While it
structions in harness

not to be expected that the rules here laid followed in every particular, it is believed that there is much that will be found
is

down can be
instructive

and useful even to the most experienced journeyman, and which if studied by the apprentice, or the journeyman who has been deprived of opportunities to learn his business in detail, will serve to advance them far more rapidly towards a mastery of their trade than if they depended solely upon the ideas and practices acquired at the work-bench.

The instructions given for making up a single harness will serve as a general guide which may be followed in almost every case, as they point out the routine to be followed and the manner of handling the stock.

To facilitate the execution of the labor and secure good results, the workman must so fit up the various parts that the stitcher can perform
class of work at a time it will not do to call upon him to stitch a round, then a loop, followed by folds and other parts. As far as possible the

one

rounds should be prepared

at

one

time,

the

ri4

THE harness-makers' illustrated manual.

breeching, hip, turnback, and other plain straps at another, then the folds, loops, laps, and all

other parts \v'here there

is

any considerable work

of a kind, each by themselves, not perhaps in the

order named, but in such a manner that each particvilar class of work can be done without
intei^fering with

another.

In the following
single

in-

structions for fitting rotation

is

up a

harness, the

such as to cause but little annoyance to the stitcher, while at the same time the fitter is not compelled to wait for any thing. The plan here detailed is that followed in a factory where the leather is cut out and given to the fitter, and the stitching done by men who do nothing else. The leather being on the workthe stock thorbut care must be taken to expose it to moisture long enough to draw the oil to the surface; then skive down all the straps or parts thereof that are to be made up into rounds, such as the winker brace, gag runners, center of breast collar, shaft tugs, and crupper dock. Slick them out and lay them aside to dry, then with a sharp spokeshave remove the flesh quite closely from the crown
first

bench, the

act

is

to

wet

all

oughly

in

blood-warm

Avater,

check rein billets, belly band billets, centerand cheeks slick them out, apply a thick coat of clean tallow, and lay them aside to dry where they will not be exposed to the sun or to the heat from a stove, as such exposure will turn the stock dark and cause the tallow to spew. The fleshing is not necessary on fine stock, but
piece,

piece,

MAKING Up a breast COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.

115

it is requisite it should be done at this Next skive the breeching, belly band, breast collar, and neck piece layers, slick them out and lay them aside to dry then skive down

where

time.

the trace fillings or raise to the required thickness, and take the edges down thin with a wide

edge tool. Next proceed to skive down the top and bottom, and slick them out, after which raise the top and paste in the filling (avoid using more
is absolutely necessary), moisten the top of the trace with a damp sponge and rub it down with a bone, reverse the straps so that the butts will run up on the outside and down on the inside, then paste on the bottom, wet it in the same manner as directed for the top, rub it down with a bone, and then rub the trace well with a rag: this will give the grain a fine, soft finish that can not be secured in any other way. Then skive down the tops and bottoms of the breeching

paste than

straps, slick

them

out, block, crease,

and punch
;

take the the bottom to form the raise on the top, raise the latter, and paste down for a

holes in the bottom for the buckles

edges

down on

distance of four feet

skive the tops and bottoms

them out, and take down the edges of the bottoms to form the raise for the tops cut them off three feet eight inches long,
of the hip straps, slick
;

round the ends, paste on the tops, and rub them with a bone and rag lay them aside, and when they are sufficiently dry so that the paste will not move they are ready to sink, but do not dr)' them in the sun or near the fire, as such heat will
;

Il6

THE HARNESS-MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

harden the stock and cause the paste -to dry unevenly.

Next fit up the shaft tug eight inches for a seven-eighth inch tug the straps being cut one and one eighth inches wide. Take off one eighth of an inch on each edge of the portion to be fitted up, raise and fill in the remaining portion so as to take up the quarter inch that was trimmed off the outside, channel the inside so that the stitches will be buried out of sight, and lay them aside to dry. Now fit the dock, mark off and cut it out, crease the edges with a fine crease, prick off twelve inches, take the edges down quite thin and bend the two together. Next fit the rounds, commencing with those for the gag runners and following with those for the throat latch and breast collar. Take the edge off the full length of the part to be rounded, and channel with a small round knife from the edge. The gag runners for a half-inch bridle require to be channeled four inches, the center-piece for a breast collar four and one half inches, and the throat latch sixteen inches hammer the straps down, and fill them if they require it. The winker brace is the next strap to be preThe billet is four and one half inches pared. long raise and crease it, hammer up the rounds

(which are seven and three quarter inches long), line the billet, and allow the end of the lining to enter the round one inch have the latter stitched, paste the billet down, and crease it when dry. Next prepare the breeching tugs. The round
;

MAKINQ UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS. II7

for the front

one should be channeled three and

;

three quarter inches, the back one four inches

black the part which passes around the rings, prick in the center, and tack in the rings. Follow these by the martingale. Mark off three quarters of an inch from the end to round in, then five inches for laps, channel seven inches, raise, crease, and black the laps; mark out, cut, and crease the layers; hammer up and fill the rounds, and have them stitched then prick off the laps
;

and have them

back.
First

stitched.
off

mark
;

Next fit up the turntwo inches for the laps on

;

the ends of the dock billets channel seven inches raise the laps, then mark off and for the rounds
cut out the wave, skive

down

the edges,

hammer
it

up the rounds, and

extend rounds

fit

the lining, allowing

to

down
;

so as to form the filling for the

have the latter stitched, round them up, and paste up the turnback when dry, mark off the wave the full length, and sink the crease for the stitching. Go over all lined straps and turnback, after having marked off the wave or other pattern, with a sharp tickler, then heat the heavy sinker and finish the sinking. Slick the tallow off the crown and center pieces, cheeks, bellyband and check rein billets, and spokeshave the edges to clean them thoroughly. Then fit up the check reins, round the points of the billets, take a light edge off the flesh side, but do not disturb the grain dampen the edges with a sponge and water, rub them with a bone until they are smooth, and, when dry, black, and rub them with
;

irS

THE harness-makers' illustrated manual.

tallow, composed of one third part beeswax and two third parts pure beef tallow rub them with a bone and then with a rag, so

prepared

that the flesh side will be kept clean, crease the

edges with a hot iron, crease and apply a little tragacanth (prepared by dissolving the gum in water and adding good black ink to give it color and preserve it), then rub with a bone. Proceed in like manner to fit up and finish the centercheck, belly band billets, cheek billets, and crown-piece billets, after which prepare the stock First measure off for the round check reins. three inches for laps at billet ends, next fourteen inches for rounds, then four and one half inches for laps at rings, and three quarters of an inch to round in cut the laps at the ring down to full one half inch in the center, and taper each way

gum

full substance where the leather turns round the rings, hammer up and fill the vounds, and have them stitched before fitting up the Then mark off" and cut out the patent laps.

leave the

leather winkers, frogs, etc.

Scratch the lines for

stitching, black over, and rub in a little tallow where scratched, and go over with a heavy sinker, which will tend to improve the appearance after

Paste up the winkers, but is done. be careful to avoid wetting the patent leather, as the water will cause it to lose its fine gloss stitch up the joining seam, leaving about three quarters of an inch on the top edge near the corner for the winker strap apply a little paste to the inside of the winker plate, shove it in between the linthe stitching
;
;

MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.

II9

ing and the patent leather, and rub down on the outside with a gig or " jakee," then apply a little
it goes between the cheek straps, and tack down on a board to dry. When thoroughly dry, trim off with a knife and spokeshave the edges dampen them with a sponge and rub with a bone, allowing the leather After being to become dry before blacking. blacked, tack the winker in its place between the cheek-straps. Next mark out by the patterns the laj^ers for the breeching, breast collar, neck piece, bell}' bands, and crown piece, cut them out and take down the edges with a wide edge-tool, then spokeshave them to remove the ridges, wet and raise them on the raise block, rub off with a rag, crease with a double creaser, and then go over them with a sinker when dry, black the edges and prick off Cut out and raise the safes for the breast collars and bell)' bands, paste them on the folds, and when nearly dry double crease them prick off when dry, have them stitched and afterwards trim them off, wet all the folds, hammer them down, put in the filling, sew up, crease the edges, and tack them on the layers. Finishing up the rounds is the next thing in order. Wet them and trim off the fillings, hammer down and pull them through the rounder, clean off with a spokeshave if necessary, black them, rub on a little tallow, pull them through the rounder again, and rub them down with a wooden rounder and a little gum. Wet the docks, hammer do-wn the seams over a wire, stuff
;
; ;

paste to the inside where

; ;

I20 THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUA"L.

with flaxseed, working it down with a wire, trim with an edge tool, black it, and rub down with a wooden creaser to fit the seam bend the dock to the required shape, and lay it
the edge

aside to dry.

Next punch the breeching, hip straps, and turnbacks, wet them, slick down the stitching from the back side, and rub the tops with a rag crease the edges over with a hot iron creaser trim the projecting edges of the turnback lining
;

with a round knife, then take off a heavy edge tvith a spokeshave, and trim with a straight knife
ivhere
it is

necessary

dampen

the edges with a

;

smooth with a bone when and rub on a little tallow, -Iry, black them after which rub with a bone and a rag, and finish with a bone and a little gum. When the dock becomes dry, polish it with a hot burnisher and tack it on the turnback have the laps stitched, trim and finish them up. Then trim and finish the shaft tugs, and polish the insides with a burnisher. Trim and finish the cheeks, put in the Trim the traces, winker brace and stitch it. punch and then wet them, slick them on the back, hammer the edges down with a "snob" or shoemaker's hammer, and square them with a spokeshave then with a heavy edge tool take the edge off the top and bottom, spokeshave them, trim the ends and around the dart holes with a straight knife, dampen the edges and rub them down with an awl handle (one that will fit the when dry, black the edges, rub on the taltrace)
noist sponge, and rub
; ;

MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.

low, and again rub with the awl handle
;

12

then rub off with a rag and afterwards with the awl handle and a little gum. Next finish the folds by wetting the backs with a moist sponge, then slick them down, wet the tops a little and rub them down with a rag, crease the edges of the layers with a hot creaser, and recrease the folds. This completes the harness in detail, and offers a perfectly accurate guide for a workman, whether working by himself or in a factory. Uniformity can be obtained only by the use of good patterns, and it is to the interest of every harness maker that they be kept in good condition. To do this, cut them out of paper and paste them on thin, stiff patent leather, then, when the paste is dry, cut the leather to the shape of the paper patterns. All patterns for breechings, breast collars, neck pieces, belly bands, turnbacks, martingales, and crown pieces should be cut to the full length, and if cut at the same time to the required width it will obviate the necessity of moving them while marking off on the leather. The pattern for the trace wave should be cut one
half the length of the trace.

CHAPTER

IX.

MAKING SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.

THE
um

single strap track harness

owes its origin

medi-

to the

demand for a

light, close-fitting,

priced article for use on the trotting course. Originally the collar and traces only were made of single straps, the breeching and other parts being made in the usual manner. The superi-

method of making the collar, howbecame so apparent that the breechings and all other portions were made to correspond, and now few harness made up in other ways are used on the trotting tracks, while very many of this style can be seen upon trotters on the roads and pleasure drives, and so popular have they become that there are few sections of the country where they are not used to a greater
ority of this

ever, soon

or less extent.

Notwithstanding their being made up of single thickness of leather and in the plainest manner,
the exercise of
tention
is

more than ordinary

skill

and

at-

required to perfect them, as in their make-up they represent the minimum amount of weight, and yet must of necessity possess great strength. This result can be attained only by

MAKING SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.

using leather of the best quality.

123

Sides of un-

even substance can not be employed to good advantage, owing to the fact that much of the strongest portion of the leather is necessarily wasted in reducing all the straps to a uniform thickness.

Young steer-hides weighing about sixteen pounds to the side are the best they not only
:

give better satisfaction when made up, but they are more economical, owing to the small amount

But even with these sides only the backs should be used, as strength is the great end to be sought after. Having selected a side possessing the requisite qualifications, cut from the strongest portion the traces and all other straps except those for the breast collar, breeching, and bridle. These can be cut from lighter sides, those weighing from ten When the to twelve pounds being the best. single strap harness were first manufactured the breast collar and breeching bodies were cut from regular weight stock, and the edges skived off from the underside, but experience has shown
of waste incurred. that lighter sides are

much more

suitable, the
in pro-

leather being

more

pliant

and stronger

portion to

its

weight, the strapping

when made

up sets closer to the horse, and the edges do not This latroll after being in use for a short time. ter qualification is of the greatest importance, and should of itself cause the use of light leather. When extra fine curried leather can not be procured, well tanned stock, treated as has been directed on page 55, will answer for all but the

124 THE HARNESS-MAKERS

finest

ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.
possess the
requisite

grades, as

it

will

strength, and in

many

cases can be given a fine

Let the leather be what it may, however, finish. the flesh side should be well cleaned off" and worked down with a slicker, as the slightest

roughness would detract from the appearance of the harness, while adding to the possibility of injury to the horse from chafing. The most important parts of this harness are shown by the sectional drawings on page 125. I represents a section of the breast-collar, with trace attached. The trace, A, is of single thickness the lap on the body is eleven inches long, cut as shown or to some other ornamental patThe ring to which the neck strap tug is tern. attached is placed five inches from the end of the bod}^ the trace is stitched on with from ten to fourteen stitches to the inch according to the grade of the harness. The neck strap tug is quite short, and is provided with a three eighth inch loop above the buckle, and a seven eighth inch loop below. When made up to measure, the tug is often dispensed with, the neck strap being stitched to the ring, thus doing away with the In the finer grades the traces and buckles.
;
;

bodies are neatly creased.

ties

are in

some
in

instances

The common qualimade up without

the
imitation stitch

creasing,

while

others
to

wheel

is

used for the purpose of ornamenting.

is

The
lay

latest freak

mark

off in the
full

same man-

ner as though the layers were

length, and to

up the ornaments

in imitation of layers.

The

MAKING SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.

25

czm
'

rv

31=3
'JM^
VI

Z)

126

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

is,

plain strap

the neatest, and

however, the most popular, looks is more easih'^ kept clean. A section of the breeching is shown by II, together with the breeching tug and buckle chape. The layer, A, is twelve inches long when made up. The end at the breeching ring is skived off so that the ring lap will be smooth and true. The tugs or braces, C, are most commonly rounded, but plain flat straps are also used these are doubled and stitched, as they would neither be sufficiently strong nor keep their shape
;

if

of single thickness

the ring for securing the

back tug is placed about eight inches from the The buckle chape, D, is probreeching ring. vided with a loop over as well as below the buckle, though in cheap grades this may be omitted.

A
III.

half section of the neck strap

is

shown by
is

This

is

cut of plain leather, the end

is

cut

straight a distance

of about six inches, above

section five inches long,
little

which there

waved

the remaining portion being straight, but a

wider at the centre than at the top of the wave. There is no stitching to be done on this strap, but a crease is run around it near the edge.

section of the outside belly band, or shaft

is

girth,

to the

shown by IV. The billet. A, is stitched body with the flesh side out, the buckle being laid under between the billet and the body, B, so that when the former is wrapped around
is

the shaft, the grain side will be out. the short belly band

shown by V.

One end of The buckle

MAKING SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.

27

chape is stitched on far enough below end to allow the latter to act as a safe. The safety-strap, a most important feature of a harness of this kind, is shown by VI. It is in fact an extra backband, cut in one piece and placed over the saddle, with the ends buckled into the shaft tug
buckles

or into extra

shaft-tugs,

the

former,

however, being the most convenient form of attachment. The holes. A, are cut sufficiently large to allow the rein ferrets to pass through them. In some cases the safety-strap is made up of a single thickness of leather throughout, but in others a lining about twelve inches long is stitched on to strengthen the strap at the terretholes.

whiffletree ends of the traces are lined for one foot, or three or four inches more than the space occupied by the dart-holes. This is generally done by turning back the extra stock, the trace being cut the full length of the side. Three dart holes are cut in, about two inches apart, and the lined section, as well as the edges
abovit

The

of the dart-holes, are stitched.

The

bridle

used

is

generally a half-inch

flat

strap with small square winkers and a full or half

Kemble Jackson check. All the straps on the harness require to be neatly rounded on the edges, and blacked and finished on the flesh sides.
This harness is represented by Plate i, engraved from a photograph of the celebrated trotting-mare Goldsmith Maid. The lengths and
widths for cutting are given
in table

No.

i,

CHAPTER

X.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.

making up team-harness INopportunity for a workmanthere as good an to display genius

is

in

designing and

skill in

execution as there

is

in

making

the most elaborate coach or fine, light

carriage harness.

The

difference,

however, being

that in the one skill in decorating as well as in

finishing are the primary points to be considered, while in the other adaptability, strength, and fit are first to be secured, after which attention may be turned to finishing and trimming. The idea is by far too prevalent that it requires but little skill to make a farm harness, and unskilled, cheap workmen are employed who could not make up carriage harness of any kind. good, careful mechanic will not only make the team harness better than the careless one, but he will, with no more expense, give it a much finer finish, thus

producing a more salable and durable article. In selecting stock, be governed by the directions laid down in Chapter I. Having chosen a side suitable for the weight of harness to be made, proceed to cut out the various straps by first straightening the back, and measuring off a strip from i8 to 20 inches wide; draw a line with a straight edge, and cut the side in two

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.

pieces
that
;

I2g

the back will contain the heaviest and

is

firmest part of the leather, the belly and flanks

which

softer

and more uneven.

Before

cutting out the straps examine the grain as well as the flesh side carefully, to see that there are

too much care can not be taken in this respect, as a blemish, no matter how slight, will show after the leather is wet up and while being worked. If the harness to be cut is a heavy one select a large spread side

no cuts or imperfect spots

will weigh from twenty to twenty-two pounds, cut the traces and all other straps which receive the strain, from the back, the folds, chapes, The traces should be etc., from the belly part. cut 76 inches long and if inches wide; if the leather is even and of suitable thickness, filling will not be necessary. The breast and pole straps should be cut next after the traces, the former 66 inches long and i| inches wide, the latter 54 inches long and if inches wide. After the buckle is sewed on, slip on a ring for the collarstrap. Cut the collar strap 34 inches long and I inch wide. Use wrought-iron cockeyes for the traces, and in addition to the stitching secure each buckle and ring chape with copper rivets these relieve the stitching from much of the strain that would otherwise be put upon it. Cut the hame tugs from heavy, even leather of equal strength with that used in the traces they should be 18 inches long after being fitted up, and of the same width as the trace the laps should not be less than 3 inches long. Use firm

which

t^O

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

leather for the loops, channel on the back to al

low the stitches to sink below the surface, and trim the edges a slight bevel. Cut the bottom

hame
and
I

strap of good, firm leather, 26 inches long

;

I inch wide the top strap, 28 inches long and inch wide, of strong but more pliable stock, as it has to adjust itself to the shape of the top ol the collar pad.

Pads

for these harness are

made up

in a variety

pad being the most desirable. Cut the top of good, even, and moderately heavy stock 22 inches long and if inches wide, narrow the ends to i|- inches, tapering up 3^ inches cut the ring piece 26 inches long by i;^ inches wide, and round up 5 inches in the center fit the ring piece to the pad top with the round well raised up, and place a martingale ring under the round for a tie strap ring then stitch For the nut a ring on each end of the top. pieces cut straps 18 inches long and if inches
of ways, the old style soft
; ;

wide, of heavy, firm stock. At the ends of the round ring piece punch a hole for the pad-screw 3| inches from that point punch another for the To make a showy pad, use a back-strap loop.
patent leather housing. The breeching folds should be cut from the smoothest part of the flank, and shaved down to
If the harness-maker will treat directed in regard to rein leather, he the folds as can produce a broken grain which will look much

an even thickness.

better than the plain leather, and will not so readCut the fold fort}^ily show checks from use.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.

I3I

In all four inches long and five inches wide. cases cut folds wider than the actual measure-

ments, as the leather will narrow down in places while being worked the)" can be cut to the re;

quired width, when read}^ for fitting up. Cut canvas of the requisite width and fill in the folds coat the leather on the flesh side with tallow, and This will also apply warm tallow to the fillings. Cut the back strap five secure a durable job. feet long and one and a quarter inches wide split it fifty two inches, leaving a short part uncut
;

wrap around the ring. If the leather is not heavy, use a wear leather where the back strap is attached to the hame rings. Stitch the hip straps to the rump rings before fitting up the bucKlepiece. If a pad-safe is used under the rump ring, cut it half an inch wider than the rump strap, stitch it on with the edges even, and leave the swell end open, to permit its being stuffed with hair. For lead-ups for the breeching, use a six and one half inch chape of sufficient width for the buckle cut the layer eleven inches long and seven eighths of an inch wide, with a hole under the buckle for the hip strap points to pass through. Use one and three quarter rings for the breeching and one inch ring for the center lead up. Cut the side straps from the center of the side, as it is necessary that they be of even thickness. These should be six feet long and one inch wide, leaving six inches for the turnback fit up with two loops, and use a snap and a slide loop to hold
to
; ;

the latter to

its

place.

132

THE harness-makers' illustrated manual.

Make the belly bands of heavy folds, five and one half inches wide and eighteen inches long lap the edges in the center, contracting the ends to the width of the buckle chapes stitch through the center with one row. The bridles, though plain, are a very important
; ;

part of a harness of this kind, and the workman who slights them makes a great mistake. They need to be larger than other kinds, as the horses

The fronts they are used upon are heavier. long to allow the crownshould be sufficiently pieces to lay one inch back of the root of the
the crownthe bridle. pieces forward and spoil the set of Fifteen to sixteen inches should be the length The length of the crown is another imporused.
horses' ears.
front will

A short

draw

under no circumstances should it be less than twelve inches between the billet splits, the whole length being twenty -four inches.
tant consideration
;

The cheeks should be seven

eighths of an inch

and throat latch three quarters of an inch wide. Cut the former thirty inches long set the buckle above the winker. The winker braces should be cut fifteen inches long, rounded nine inches cut the face piece twenty-one inches long, and All straps on the split it ten and one half inches. bridle other than the face and winker should be flat. Cut the inside checks sixty-one inches and outside checks twenty-six inches long, by three quarters of an inch wide make up the outside Use a plain leather with a ring for take-up. winker, six by four and one half inches, with
;

DIRECT'IONS FOR

MAKING TEAM HARNESS.

133

^ound corners
ter

and an oval end.

These wear bet-

and are

less liable to

be damaged than the

square winkers.

Cut the lines from the best part of a side weighing about sixteen pounds see that there are no cuts on the grain or flesh side. Make them up flat, about twenty-four feet long and one
;

inch wide.

inside or cross lines must be six long billets, twelve inches long finish off the ends with a billet in such a manner that a snap can bs attached if desired. The mountings, though of the plainest kind, must be strong, and in neglecting to procure those suited to the strain to be borne, harnessmakers often entail pecuniary loss upon them-

The

feet six inches

selves

and

injure

their

reputation.

weak

buckle, ring, or hame, operates just as injuriously

to the harness-maker as

though the leather used

the

was
poor.

inferior

in

quality and

workmanship

The
test,

trace buckles are subjected to a se-

and unless they are strong and perheavy strain put upon them. There are a variety of patent trace buckles in the market, and, owing to strong competition, prices have been very much reduced, so that manufacturers have been tempted to make
vere
fect they will not sustain the

them much
to

lighter than

the}''

should be.

It is

ne-

cessary, therefore, to examine

ed.

them

closely,

and

buy the strongest and those most easily adjustThe hames, which are of wood, should be strong and of good shape, provided with extra
rings for split back strap and loose loops at the bottom. The small buckles should be strong and

i^^4

THE harness-makers' illustrated manual.

that is, so shaped that the not bent too much in passing through, and the edges are not borne too heavily upon. The common wire horseshoe buckle, which is used more than any other, is the poorest article in the market. The " Sensible" is a good buckle, and there arc others which answer quite as well, a full description of which is given in the chapter on harness mountings. But of all the buckles made, there is none better than the large barrel rollerbuckle for a draft harness this possesses great strength, is easily loosened, and does not cut the strap in the least. The stitching throughout should be done with white thre.id, as it is much stronger than black it can be colored easily when blacking up for finishing. Traces and tugs should have six or seven stitches all other straps eight or ten to the inch. Coarse stitching is the strongest, and accords best with heavy harness.
of a

good pattern
is

strap

The above instructions, though ostensibly for a team harness, can be followed in a general way in making up all kinds of draft harness. The following practical working guide will be understood by the woikman. Before doing any thing toward fitting up, see ihat every strap is cut and laid upon the workbench. First skive down all the folds, wet them and slick them out, cut them to the required lengths, and skive down and shape ends fold them and hammer them down fill them with canvas, felt, or leather, and sew them up then shape up the chapes, skive down the ends, punch
; ; ;

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKiNG TEAM ITARNESS.

t^S

the buckle-holes, and black and crease the edges

leather

tack on the chapes and layers, and as soon as the

is dry they can be stitched. Before stitching the folds, wet all the stock, allow it to dry a little, then slick it out, point up the straps, take off the edges where it is necessary, and crease while damp. If the edges are rubbed down at the same time, they will finish better when dry but the blacking must not be applied
;

If folded traces are center on the flesh side, and with a gouge take out about one half the thickness of the stock. This will prevent the leather cracking when being bent over. If doubled

until after the leather

is

dry.

used,

mark a

line in the

and stitched traces are used, paste up, tack, and crease them, and lay them one side to dry. Fit

up the breeching

tugs, turn four inches

use loops

one eighth inch narrower than the tugs. Crease and stitch the winkers, put some paste on the plates, and shove them in rub down with a round end slicker, and tack them on a board to dry. Fit up the winker brace, wet it thoroughly, and bend it like the letter B tack it down, and allow it to dry before being stitched in. Make all the laps on the bridle two inches long lap
; ; ;

billets,

three inches.
all

After

the straps are dry and stitched, trim

the edges, using a spokeshave instead of glass to true them black them, and then apply a little
;

tallow and rub with a rag.

and the harness

finish.

will be

Clean up the loops, ready to receive the final

136 THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

HEAVY ORNAMENTAL TRUCK HARNESS.

Among

the

many

purpose of advertising a special business

;

devices resorted to for the is the

use of display teams, the harness for which is made in the most expensive manner and it is no

uncommon occurrence

for a four-horse set to cost

As all these harness are made up in special styles, according to the taste of the party ordering them, a general description is all that is necessary. The bridles are made up full coach style, the winkers square, with slightly-rounded corners swivel gag runners are used, and the ornaments are alike on both sides the cheeks, throat latches, and reins are cut three quarters of an inch wide the winker braces are generally rounded the face pieces are made with ornamental pendants, and are lined and stitched throughout. The entire bridle is fitted up with as much care as though designed for a coach harness. The metallic ornaments are of an appropriate design, to illustrate the business of the owner. The wheel harness have no pads; the crupper or back straps extending forward to the top hand straps the crupper bodies are made with wide
$2000, or a single set to cost $1200.
; ; ;

padded the layers, which extend length of the safes, are cut to a suitable the entire ornamental pattern, made up martingale fashicjn, lined and stitched with four rows, fourteen to sixscroll safes,
;

teen to the inch. The hip straps for each breeching are cut in one

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.

piece,

IJ7

having a swell two and a half inches wic'e, ends being one inch wide between the ends there are ornamental pendants, which
the split
;

are cut out of the

full,

same

strap, fitted

up quite

and stitched with four rows, the center of the frog being provided with a metallic ornament the hip straps are secured to the crupper body by metallic screws.
;

The breeching bodies

are of solid leather,

;

two

and three quarter inches wide the layer straight and stitched with four rows; the layers and hip
the tugs with loops before and after the buckles on each tug is an ivory ring in place of the ordinary breeching rings: they are put up the same as collar buckles, having loops for the tugs and trace bearer frogs, the latter being of som? neat, appropriate pattern. The breeching straps act as pole straps as well, as they extend from the breeching to the neck yoke, and are provided with heavy straps at the pole ends, and attached to the breeching martingale fashion. Bearing straps are attached to the forward ends, and are secured to the harness by swivel snap hooks. The traces and safes are cut in one piece, the safe end being four and one half, the other portion two inches wide, and attached to the harness by a heavy loop and three plated-head rivets they have three straight rows of stitches, ten to the inch.
;

straps are stitched fourteen to the inch

have

full
;

safes,

The

lead harness, bridles, traces, and collars are

138

THE harness-makers' illustrated manual.

made up the same as those for the pole team, except that they are lighter they have, however, pads, but no breeching. The former are of plain leather, cut in one piece, with swelled sides doubled throughout and made very firm, the bearing part lined and padded, and the tops stitched in the same manner as the tops of coach pads. The trace bearers are made heavy and strong, and in addition to being stitched to the pad by four rows they are each fastened by two pad-screws, to which are fastened ivory rings rings are also attached to the top in the center of each pad through which the turnback passes to the hame The cruppers are made up in the same straps. manner as those of the pole harness, excepting that they are provided with billets for the docks the latter are extra large. The loin straps are made up in the usual coach style, with swell ends and hip ornaments and trace bearers the same as those on the pole har; ;

ness.

The mountings are generally silver-plated, all the buckles being the " sunk bar." The round reins are of russet, and the hand parts of heavy The collars are heavy, having piped throats, lined with thin harness leather.
buffed leather.

CHAPTER
MAKING

XI.

GIG- SADDLES.

FORMERLY every harness maker made up his

gig saddles, and any general information manufacture was of great value, but of late years a large percentage made are by parties who carry on the business of saddle making exclusively, or in connection with winkers, fronts, etc., and but few harness-makers can afford to make up the lower grades of saddles. There are

own

on that

line of

who will not purchase readyand they would not think the manual complete without some instruction upon this vei-y important branch of the harness busithose, however,

made

saddles,

ness.

To such

the following plain details

may

prove of great value. The tree selected is the well known Tompkins, it being used more generally than any other.

The covering of the seat is the first part to be performed. To do this and make a perfect job, for no matter how well it may fit up the tree have been made, there may be rough spots on the
;

and the wood in the cantle may need to be reduced in thickness. After having thoroughly cleaned the tree, unscrew the seat and remove it from the frame varnish it with shellac varnish
iron,
;

140 THE HARNESS-MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

to prevent its rusting, or, better

still,

draw on

piece of sheepskin.

When

it

is

dry, proceed to
:

prepare and draw on the seat leather, as follows Cut a piece of patent collar leather, of the size required for the seat to be covered, dampen it with warm water, but do not wet the varnish and avoid using too much water stretch it to conform somewhat to the desired shape, put a tack on each side of the cantle, and clip the edges to admit of its being drawn down. Pull each way and cut off the surplus leather, then sew the parts underneath the seat with a cross stitch, after which pull up the cantle part and tack it all around to the wood. Cut a piece of leather of about the size and substance of the middle leather (this is to be removed when the jockeys are put on,) place it in position, and screw the seat to the frame in order to secure the seat leather firmly in its place use a washer temporarily until the seat is screwed on to remain then file off the projectWhen the seat leather ing portion cf the screw. becomes dr)', put on the back pieces, draw the tacks from the cantle, cut off some of the surplus leather, dampen the part over the cantle edge, and with a pair of plyers set up the leather drawn over the cantle, clipping it where needed. Cut a piece of patent collar leather for the back piece of the cantle, of the same shape as the seat leather fit it nicely, and punch holes for the crupper loop, and cut apart from the hole to the bottom secure it in position by a few tacks, and prepare it To do this, use a single thread for the binding.
; ; ;
;

MAKING GIG SADDLES.

carefully in such a

I4I

manner

not show through the

that the stitches will binding, paste the two

upper edges together, and hammer to make them firm and smooth. When dry, cut off the surplu? leather, leaving just enough to form a bindingedge, and with a very sharp edge tool trim thr back part, and it will be ready for the binding. To bind, cut a strip of enameled leather, about seven eighths or one inch v/ide (cutting parallel with the grain to prevent the varnish from cracking) and of the proper length, which can b3 ascertained by stretching it over the cantle edge; skin one side to a thin edge, paste, and with a slicker turn down the edge one quarter of an inch, rub it down and crease it for stitching then draw it over the cantle, tack one end properly and carefully adjust it in its place until the circle is completed and the other end secured in the same way. Regulate it with a slicker (which should be about one inch wide to work well), after which allow it to dry, and stitch as neatly as poswhen stitched, slick, regulate, and trim off sible the binding on the back part, black the trimmed edge, and it will be ready for the jockeys. To prepare the frame f )r the seat and jockeys, trim off the rough edges from the middle leather, cut two pieces of hard stock, about six inches long and of the same width as the depressions in the frame, skive down one end of each piece, and tack one in each of the depressions, with the holes must be skived ends- toward the center for the terrctnuts, which should punched in them
;

142

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

nails

be secured with annealed or clout through the leather and clinched.

passed

To make
quired
iron, scribe

size,

the jockeys, take a pattern of the remade of heavy leather or sheet

and cut the jockeys, if for a covered if for a japanned seat, in seat, in two pieces one piece for a covered seat, skive the parts that meet on the center of the tree, dampen with water, and bend them to fit nicely over
; ;

the
off

seat.

After

stitching

the- jockeys,

take

edge with an edge tool, black, and rub smooth, and polish with a little ballblack. When they are read}', tack them to the middle leather on the frame in their proper place, screw on the seat, file off the screw if too long, wet the front and back edges of the seat leather, carefully draw it down, tack the front and rear, then trim off all surplus leather, and it is ready for
the the flaps.

The crupper loop should be covered

seat

before the

and frame are put together. Cover it with plain or enameled leather, in the same manner as
covering a buckle or ring, and, when dry, edges, black, and rub smooth. To cut the flaps, patterns should be provided the same as for the jockeys lay them on the leather, scribe around them with a round awl, and cut them out, true and smooth, with a grease the under side with sharp round knife hard tallow, but do not allow it to touch the cut edges immerse them in water for a few minutes, then lay them aside until the water has softened
in

stitch firm, trim off the

MAKING GIG-SADDLES.
the leather enough for

I43

it to receive the creasegrease applied to the glazed side will prevent the creaser scratching. After creasing, allow them to dry, then bevel and black the edges. To flap off, cut the ends of the flaps to the requisite shape, so as to allow a portion to settle down in the depressions of the tree on the top of the stiffeners, leaving room for the back bands; fit the parts nicely, butting them against the crupper, so that the jockeys will hit the guide marks on the flaps place them so that the tree is in the center, and nail through the holes in the frames, clinching the nails on a flat iron. The back bands being in their place on the flaps,

mark

little

adjust

them on the

tree,

the terret shanks, tack

punch holes in them for them fast, and secure the

If the flaps are

nuts with clout

piece,

nails.

After putting in the foredis-

sew down the jockeys.

lengthened in front, the forepiece can be pensed with when making cheap saddles.

To make

the leather loops, cut

two pieces
;

of

thin harness leather, three and a halt inches long

and one and a quarter inches wide also two other pieces of good leather, about as heavy as bridle leather, one inch wide by three and a quarter inches long; paste these on the thin, wide pieces, then cut four strips, a little more than one eighth of an inch wide, from the heaviest leather (as it is easier to paste before cutting); paste them three sixteenths of an inch from the outer edges, pat them down with a hammer, and allow the

144 THE HARNESS-MAKERS

ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.
skive the ends, and they

paste to dry
will be

when

dr)',

Next cut a piece of good enameled leather of sufficient

ready
for the

covering leather.

width to cover the body piece, shave down

little,

slick out, cut in

two

pieces, paste them,

;

while and put them around the body piece damp, bind them over a piece of wood, three
eighths of an inch thick on one edge, and, after
adjusting them to suit the eye, tack them to dry

when

dry,

stitch

stitches to the inch,

them twenty to twenty-two and they will be ready to be

put in the

flaps.

up the points for stitching, rough out the upper pieces eleven and a half inches long and three quarters of an inch wide, if for a threeinch saddle or under, of good but not heavy leather cut the linings one and a half inches shorter and of lighter material wet the leather as directed on page 54, and when partially dry it will work easily. If the upper pieces are not
lay
; ;

To

of uniform thickness,

place the

heaviest ends

lay on the and cut out the ornamental section that is stitched on the flap skive down the uppers on the flesh side where they lay on the flaps, leaving the edge the heaviest just at the end of the latter, as they are liable to break at

next to the flaps

pattern,

slick

them smooth,
;

mark

it,

this

point

if

not well protected.

Round

the

lower ends and skive them down a little on each edge for a good job, make the two parts a little oval by bending them over the edge of a board, or by rubbing them down in a groove, crease the
;

MAKING GIG-SADDLES.

145

edge, and afterwards crease for the stitching. Skive the linings on the edges, paste them and the tops together, smooth with a rubbing-rag,

and

let

them dry, then

stitch

from ten to sixteen

stitches to the inch, according to quality.

When
down
;

the leather a little, slick the under side, and crease the edges again
stitched,

dampen

trim

them to the desired shape, black them, and rub smooth with a rag containing a little tallow, and
with a stiff brush clean off the stitches. They will then be ready to attach to the flaps. To make the back bands, rough them out to the required length and width, using the best quality of leather (the upper piece should be of good substance, but the lining may be of lighter

dampen them in the same manner as directed for the points, lay the upper pieces tostock);

gether, and

mark

off

twelve inches for the points

and one inch

if the parts above the points are to be ornamental ; if not, round four and a half inches, leaving the remaining por-

for rounding,

tion

flat,

to

by the

terrets.

go under the jockeys and be secured The ornament above the loop

should be made to correspond with the other ornamental work on the harness. Skive the edges of the under pieces, and cut the tops to the desired width, leaving them a little wider at the loops sew the rounds where the loops are to go very strongly, round up smoothly, and paste the top and linings together in good order above and below the loop rounds (some prefer to paste up before sewing the rounds). Crease up
;

146

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

for straight or

ornamental stitching, whichever

best suits the harness, and settle the

stitches

mark
there

for the

is not with a tickler. Where enough substance to make a firm job, a middle piece can be used to advantage. Finish in the same manner as with the points. To make the pad, cut the lining to the required shape, using the best English serge, and the bodypiece of sheepskin or enamelled duck. If the former is iised, it may be necessary to cut this piece a little smaller than when duck is employed, as it does not work up so much in sewing, and it IS not necessary to take quite so deep a hold. Sew them together in the center with a few stitches on each side, to keep them in place, and scribe guide marks crosswise on the sheepskin or duck, to serve as guides for closing up the long

Cut the facings of patent all saddles under three inches, increasing the width for larger sizes. Be governed by the dimensions of the body piece in the length of the facings and
cut after
stuffing.

leather about one inch wide for

fillings the latter are preferably made of leather, but reeds are also used. In preparing the fillings, reduce them in the center at the hook, also at the ends, to make a good finish baste the facings on the fillings with long stitches, having them a Sew them all together the facings little damp., forming a welt, beginning at the center with a strong thread, about four stitches to the inch finish the ends neatly. After sewing, cut the body piece lengthwise,
; ;

MAKING GIG-SADDLES.

I47

turn the pad, and sew together with a long loopthe guide marks will assist materially in stitch so joining that the original position is maintained
;

regulate the facings while damp.

ficient time,

If there be suftack the pad out on a board in the

shape to

suit the flaps,

and smooth the facings

with a half round creaser, the same as for any

rounded piece, and let it remain until thoroughly dry before stuffing. In making common saddles this may be omitted, the whole being worked dry but with a good saddle these points must be observed. Stuff from the centre with well-beaten
;

hair, a little at a time, Avorking it

evenly into

its

and keeping it compact and smooth with a round awl after thus regulating it, quilt the pad up to the bearings, being careful to have each side correspond. Next sew the lining to the body piece, keeping the fulness of the lining drawn toward the lower ends of the pad stuff the bearings, and work with a round awl until the are sufficiently full, then with a proper tool pound the pad where it is quilted and stuffed, and it is ready for the saddle.
place,
;

Before flapping, make the holes in the flaps for the loops, and prepare each of the latter for After the flapping is done, and before stitching. sewing down the jockeys, draw the loops in their places over the rounds of the back bands and

down through
flaps,

the holes

made

for

them
;

in the

pulling

them

tightly to their places,

and

tacking temporarily with small tacks sew them to correspond with the stitching on the jockeys,

148

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

punch holes through the top ends of the back bands for the terrets, and nail them securely. Tacking is not absolutely necessary, but it serves
to

make

a firmer job.

terrets

and hook, using annealed

After so doing, put in the nails to secure

the nuts, clinch

the jockeys.

them thoroughly, and sew down Trim up, regulate, and put in the
off,

pad, lace
is

it

thoroughly, clean

and the saddle

finished.

a change is necessary in the shape of or larger or smaller patterns are desired, strike a line lengthwise through the center of the pattern, then take a pair of dividers and lay out the shape or size preferred, working from the center-line when the shape is secured, cut one side, fold the pattern together, and cut the other. In this way a true pattern is obtained, while no changes are made in the part that fits the tree. Alter the patterns for the body and lining to correspond.
the
flap,
;

Where

CHAPTER

XII.

PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.

THE ments

subdivision of labor and the improvemade during the past ten or fifteen

years have, by making specialties of certain parts, such as pads, gig saddles, etc., taken some of the harness maker's work out of his hands, and enabled him to purchase ready-made articles at reduced prices, yet there are times when these must be made under the supervision of the manufacturer in order that they may correspond with all other portions of the harness. Patent pads, which constitute the greater portion of those made up for the regular trade, are constructed in various ways, and as their manufacture is confined to the patentees, no advantage would accrue to the harness maker by a detailed description of the manner of putting them toInstruction, therefore, in this respect gether. will be confined to a few of the hand made pads which best represent their respective classes more than this it would be useless to do, as the variety of style and processes of manufacture are
so varied,

150

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

COACH AND CARRIAGE PADS.

By coach and carriage pads is meant whether light or heavy, that are designed for

all,

car-

riage harness in contradistinction to those used on team or draught harness. The process of man-

ufacture

is

the same in

all cases,

whether the paa

be light or heavy. Directions for making up will be confined to the pad, independent of the sides. The plates, which should be of wrought-iron, must be trued up, and the ends filed off thin and smooth. Cut out the top, punch the holes for the hook, terrets, and pad screws, blind stitch the ornamental portion, and stitch the pad plate lining to the top trim off the edges to a sharp under bevel, then split the lining lengthwise, insert the plate, and whip stitch together with strong threads. Cut the socket piece of harness leather the half inch larger all around than the top one pole, as it is sometimes called, should point, or extend from i^ to if inches below the end of the plate in cutting allow at least f of an inch for of an fulness between the terret holes, and inch between the terret and pad screw holes. Skive off the edges on the flesh side quite thin, and back |- inch from the outer edge, punch holes for terret nuts, insert them, and rivet them in in like manner insert the nuts for the pad place screws, and screw them in position by means of a small cap piece stitched on. Screw in the pad hook, place the nut piece in position, and pound
;
;

-J-

COACH AND CARRIAGE PADS.

I^f

down enough on
exact
size,

the pad screw nut to obtain the then remove the nut piece, and cut away for the pad hook nut then place the nut piece in position, screw in the terrets, insert a short piece of harness leather the same width and thickness as the pad side, and set in the pad screw (be careful to set the mock side in proper
;

position)

then, Avith a

hammer,

set

up the

bolt

piece to the plate, work in all the fulness, and turn up the edges square and smooth, and set the pad aside to dry. After the leather is dry, cut the pad
filling

out of heavy

felt,

paste

it

on, and,

when

dry, trim to the required shape.

light collar leather,
it

Cut the
it

DOttom from
flesh side,

moisten

on the
to the

work

up smooth, and paste

;

edges of the nut piece when dry, trim off flush with the top, skive the edges quite thin, and paste on the binding, being careful to work it up smooth and even when dry, stitch across the centre, leaving the gullet piece about i^ inches wide, then place the pad upon a block, and caretrim the edge, and black fully stitch the binding Pads put up in this way are firm, if necessary. and much easier to make than those in which hair is used for stuffing. The following directions apply to the manuThe routine facture of pads stuffed with hair. for making is also somewhat different: Prepare the top and lining, and insert the plate as before directed, fit the hook and crupper loop in their proper places, bend the latter up so that it meets the edge of the top, fasten the screw or nut piece
; ;

152

The harness makers' illustraTEO manCaL.

with a pad screw to the top, and force it up in the centre so as to obtain the requisite fulness, mark the holes for the screws and ferrets, and also the
outlines for the plate
long,
;

make

the pole

i|-

inches

remove the nut piece, and punch the burrow holes by the lower edges of the marks this will
;
;

secure the necessary fulness in the centre skive off the edges of the nut piece, secure the burrs to it, and fit it up to the top with a hammer, being
careful to turn the edges

up true and smooth,

dry, repeat
is

and set

it

aside to dry

when partially

properly shaped do not remove the top until the nut piece is perfectly dry. Cut the bottom piece out of collar leather to get the proper size, make a pattern of sheep-skin. This is done by dampening it very lightly, turning up the end around the gullet, tack it to the top, fit the other end around the pole, and tack it in like manner, then turn up the edge all around, and mark a line level with the This will give the exact shape without fultop. Remove this piece, and draw a line for ness. the swell, the greatest fulness being opposite the centre of the terret holes taper gradually to the centre and ends, then cut the bottom piece to the new line b}"^ the pattern upon the leather for the bottom piece, and cut it out. Cut a small piece out of the centre in order to obtain fulness enough for the edges, whip together smoothly, turn the edges in the centre and fasten with a few stitches, draw the ends down and fasten the points with tacks, paste between the burrs and
;
; ;

the process so as to be sure that the edge

SOFT PAf.

1^3

the lining on the edge, pop stitch together, leaving the ends open. Stitch across the centre, leaving a space i|- inches, paste the bottom to the

edges of the nut piece, and, when dry, trim off to the required shape paste the binding, and, when dry, stitcli carefully trim the binding close to the stitching, holding the knife so as to cut under in order to avoid showing a ragged edge. In stuffing, first work out the edge, then fill up the
; ;

centre, tapering off gradually to the point close the ends and tuft the point, and fit up to the top
;

for the last time.

Fitting

up the nut piece

is

the most important

part of the work, and care must be taken to se-

cure the requisite fulness to make a good job have the leather properl}^ tempered so that it will retain the shape given it.
also, to

SOFT PAD.

A very large majority of the plainer lines of farm and team harness are made up with what is known as soft pads that is, those without plates. The great number of styles makes it impossible, in a work of this kind, to give any more than a general notice, and as an illustration the one shown on page 154 is selected. It is one of the best, and embraces the general principles by which all soft pads are made. The tops and sides arc cut of one piece of heavy harness leather, forty-four inches long and, if designed for a one and three quarter trace harness, it is cut one and

154 THE Harness makers' illustrated"

manual.

SOFT PAD.

155

a quarter inches wide in the centre, two and a quarter inches at the pad bilge, two inches at the side bilge, one and a quarter inches at the narrowest point between the top and side bilges, and

seven eighths of an inch at the bottom.

the leather the

Treat

same

as in

making harness, and

crease the edges with a double creaser.

The pad bottom is cut of good fold leather. In making the pad, cut a heav}' piece of felt, nine inches long, for each side, of the same shape as the pad top, but about one quarter of an inch narrower. Cut extra pieces about five inches long
to

make
;

the requisite fulness for the bilge of the

cover the felt with the pad bottom, and lace the edges of the latter together on the top (the pad bottom should be wet while being worked, so that it can be fitted up to a good shape) then secure it to the top by a single line of stitches, or by binding with fancy colored leather, allowing the binding to terminate at the bottom of the pad, or to extend across the top in the form of a fold as shown by X, part A. The pad trace bearer is shown by B its full length is nineteen inches, width at top three quarters of an inch, and at the bilge one and a quarthe upper end is attached to the pad ter inches top by a plated rivet, and stitched from four and a half to five inches from the end. The points are cut "twelve inches wide and laid up on the pad side three inches, the lower ends of the trace bearers rest on the points and are stitched to them, one half inch bevelled plugs being placed between

pad

: ;

r5'6

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTEAtED' MANUAL.

;

the two the whole is further strengthened by copper rivets. A ring for the back strap is attached to the centre of the pad by a chape stitched and riveted on. This pad is sometimes made up with a short plate, extending down far enough to receive the pad trace bearer, a terret being used instead of the rivet when this is done, a loop check takes
;

The parts represented A, pad top section B, pad side section C, pad trace bearer D, one line of the pad bottom E, pad trace bearer in position.
the place of the ring. are
: ; ; ;

PLAIN HARD PAD.

This, while being much firmer and stronger than the soft pad, is but little more difficult to make. It is designed for heavy wagon harness where terrets and hooks are to be used. A very good idea of its construction and appearance may be gathered from the illustration on page 157, which represents the various pieces drawn to one third their actual size.

The top, which is shown by section i, is cut out of heavy patent or harness leather; the openings show the positions of the pad screw and terret

may be blind stitched if desired, but for general use it is quite as salable if left plain. If harness leather is used, trim the edges to a light oval and crease them with a fine creaser. The bottom piece or lining is shown by section this is cut of light harness or fold leather. The 2
this
;

PLAIN HARD PAD.

iSl

158

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

socket piece, the lower end of which is shown below the pad top i, is cut to the same shape as the top, a point a little below the centre of the hole

pad screw, then it takes the shape designated by the dotted lines. The housing is shown by section 3. This is made of patent leather with a scolloped border bound around the edge, as shown by A the square hole showing the space cut away to admit the back band. The pad plate is shown by section 4. This is of wrought or malleable iron with threads cut in the the holes for the pad screws and terrets crupper loop is cast or forged upon the plate. In making up this pad, cut the socket piece from patent leather, the same size as the plate, and secure it to the latter by means of copper rivets at the points designated by X, section 4; then draw over the bottom and tack it to the socket piece, the nails clinching as they come in contact with the plate lap the ends of the bottom so as to obviate the necessity of using a separate gullet piece then stuff the pad and place the housing on the socket piece tuft the ends of the bottom socket and housing as shown by the cross lines on the lower ends of i and 3 then place the pad top in position, and secure it by the terfor the
;

rets

and pad screws.

;

side pieces are always cut straight and creased or stitched if trace bearers are used, the top ends, are secured by the pad screws. The

The

housing

is

not a necessity with this pad, but

it

PLAIN HARD PAD.

I59

more ornamental, and is therefore premost buyers. by Another style of pad which may be made up with or without pad plates or stuffed pad, is made by cutting a housing piece from heavy patent leather to the required shape, and covering it with soft collar leather. If no plate is used, the back strap, which is perfectly straight and about one and one quarter inches wide, is stitched to the pad piece before the latter is covered a chape is attached to the centre for the back strap ring, or a loop check hook may be used instead four rivets, with round heads, are used to strengthen the pad and to give it an ornamental
makes
it

ferred

appearance. plain pad, which

is

used to a considerable exharness,

;

tent in

New- York upon team

is

made

of

two strips of harness leather one, forming the pad and sides, is cut two and a quarter inches
fifty-six inches long, the points one and an eighth inches wide and ten inches long the layer is cut seventy-nine inches long and one and an eighth inches wide this is stitched to the pad twelve inches each side of the centre the lower ends are placed even with the bottom ends of the
;

wide and

points,

and stitched to them and three inches up

sides, the fulness thus

on the

secured to the layer

makes it answer for a pad trace bearer; small brass head rivets are placed in the centre of the layer the whole length between the points at intervals of about three inches.

The

layer

may

be

r6o

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

left loose in the center, forming a loop for the back band to pass through, or a billet and ring may be attached instead. A thin pad, made of two thicknesses of felt and fold or collar leather, can be added if desired.

CHAPTER

Xlir.

MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.

have three kinds of from the hand made, patent, and pressed. The first are undoubtedly the best, and are used in preference to all others upon fine harness, some leading- manufacturers using no other kind. Some makers of medium grades also use them to a considerable extent but if well made they are too expensive for common work, and when poorly conleather loops
to

HARNESS MAKERS

select

structed are inferior to the other kinds. Patent loops are made by being pressed up in hot dies, and are sold, to the trade in every need-

ed size and in a variety of styles. Being nicely and much cheaper than handmade loops, they have taken their place on medium, grades, and are also used to a great extent upon common Pressed loops are those made up in harness. the workshop, and shaped by means of dies and presses after they are stitched upon the straps. The making of these and hand creased alone interest the w.orkman, as the patent loops are ready for use at the time of purchase.
finished

Hand made loops possess 'several advantages oyer other kinds-; they are more durable, and, owing to the manner of making them, are less

62

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

uniform in style of creasing than those made by

dies.

Care
site in

in the selection of stock

is

the

first

requiis

making good

loops,

and the workman

referred to the description of the various qualities and kinds given on page 36. Next in importance is the tempering of the stock in water so as to bring it to a condition where it can be easily worked and yet retain the full impression of the creasing irons, which it will not do if either too wet or dry. The general rule is to soak the leather until thoroughly moistened, then remove it from the water, and allow it to become surface dry before creasing. Some workmen prefer to moisten the leather but a little before stitching on, and afterward temper it by the use of water and a sponge if, after being stitched on, the leather is found to be too dry to work well, the fault can be remedied by the use of a moist sponge. Owing, however, to the marked
;

difference existing in the texture

and

fibre

of

each separate side of leather, and to the various portions of a single side, there can be no fixed rule given as to the preparation of it, and the workman must be governed solely by experience. As has been stated in another chapter, there are certain signs and indications which furnish an exact guide to the workman, but they are of a nature which can not be described, and it is his duty to pay strict attention to the minor details if he would meet with success in the leading features.

: ;

HARNESS LOOPS.

163

In order to secure a perfect-shaped loop, it is absolutely necessar}' to allow sufficient fulness in the leather to permit the corners being work-

ed up

full

and square on the outside.

To accom-

plish this, a fulness of about f of an inch over and above the width of the loop stick should be

allowed to a ij-inch loop of ordinary thickness, increasing or diminishing the same as the width or thickness is increased or diminished. This extra leather must be worked up and outward to the corners, so that when the loop is completed they are full and square, otherwise they will be thin and weak at the very point where the greatest strength is required Hand creased loops are commonly attached by Another stitching both sides before creasing.

method which
as
it

is

preferred by

many workmen,
it

obviates
is

much

of the difficulty arising from

a

the leather becoming too dry before

creased,

the

employment of
is

clamp

in

can be con-

nection with the loop stick.

When
is

this is used,

an iron loop stick

one.

substituted for the

iron

wooden
the
full

The back clamp

made

length of the loop stick, and ^ of an inch wider at either end there is an ear, which projects

inch above the back iron, the ends of I which are bent over so as to cross the back iron holes are drilled through the at right angles ends directly over the centre of the back iron these are threaded and provided with a thumb screw. When used, the back iron is placed against the back of the strap, and the thumb

about

164

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

screws tightened against tlie loop stick, holding the latter and the leather firmly together. In securing the loop, one side is stitched in its place and the other properly inserted, after which the screws are applied and the whole held in position until the loop is creased and finished) after which it can be stitched fast. If the ordinary loop stick is used, both sides must be stitched fast before the stick is inserted, care being taken to allow the requisite fulness. First work up the sides with a slicker, then rub down the top, and continue to work both sides and top until the leather is pressed firmly against the loop stick, always working toward the corners to keep them full, then trim the ends perfectly true, and run the edge creases with a hot creaser, after which trace off the pattern and outline it with a fine tickler, then crease up with suitable tools these can be kept hot and clean by laying the ends upon a metallic box heated by gas jets or an alcohol lamp, the handles resting upon a wire support. The secret of
:

success in creasing loops

is

to define all corners

and outlines correctly before the leather becomes too hard to receive an impression easily, the working up of the pattern afterwards being comparatively an easy matter. After the pattern is well worked i p, remove the loop stick and insert an iron one which has been heated as hot as it can be without danger of burning, then color the leather with iron and vinegar black, and work over the entire loop with warm creasei-s and slickers until

HARNESS LOOPS.
the leather
is

165

By this process the surface will receive a fine polish, and if the color is
perfectly dry.

good no further operation

black
is

is

needed.

If

a better

required, allow the loop to remain

unmo-

seasoned, and apply a slight coat of hatter's black, and, when dry, polish

lested until thoroughly

loop which has been well be improved by the use of varnish of any kind. If the loop is properly made it will be solid and entirely free from grain cracks, the corners full and sharp, the ornament well raised and correctly defined. A soft loop is an evidence of a lack of skill, or of carelessness, upon the part of the workman, for if the leather is in proper condition and worked up as it should be,

with a

silk

rag.

worked

will not

become firm and hard. Pressed loops are the cheapest, and when well made appear nearly as well when new as the other styles. There has been a marked improvement in the manner of making them within a few
it

will

years,

and

it is difficult,

in

some

cases, to detect the

difference

between them and the patent

care
is

loops.

The same

necessary in regard to provid-

ing fulness in the leather sufficient to produce square corners as is recommended in the case of hand made loops. They are needled on, and by the exercise of a little ingenuity the awl holes on the side last stitched may be so placed as to be almost undiscernable when the loop is fully pressed up. The machinery and appliances necessary for pressing up these loops consist of a

l66

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

press, a metallic
3

good screw

box with open ends,

the sides being about

inches high on the inside,

and the width for other than pressing cheek loops 3 inches wide in the clear for cheek loops a box fully wide enough to admit the winker is in one side of the box place two necessary thumb screws about i^- inches from the bottom, one within 2 inches of each end in addition small side plates are needed to be placed between the sides of the box and the loop, also plates to be placed upon the bottom for raising or lowering
;

the loop according to

sticks,

its

thickness
dies.

iron loop

and the top stamps or

In press-

ing, the loop stick is placed in its

the strap laid in tightened up until the leather is pressed firmly against the sides of the loop stick, after which the die is placed in position and the screw presIt is necessary to screw sure applied to the top. well up or the heavy pressure on the side plates the top will cause the loop to spread on the top edge. Two minutes under the press is all that is necessary to secure a firm loop even with cold By the exercise of a little ingenuity in irons. designing dies, a variety of patterns ma}' be produced and cheap harness relieved of the same-

proper position, the box, and the side screws

ness
tion

now

so prevalent.

With pressed

as

with

other loops,

much

of the success in their produc-

depends upon the leather being properly tempered. After the loop is seasoned, color it with vinegar and iron black, and when dry rub

HARNESS LOOPS.

67

with a woolen cloth, after which

ished the

it

use of a box of this kind, together with dies, small loops may be made similar to the patent ones, and of patterns to match the large ones.
as
loops.

same

hand made

may be By the

fin-

CHAPTER

XIV.

STITCHING HARNESS.

IN stitching harness two objects are tained strength and ornamentation.

to be at-

The first

secured by the use of thread of the required size to suit the work to be done, making it up properly, employing an awl that is neither too large nor too small, and drawing the work well
is

together.

an

artistic

The second, by laying the stitches manner so that, when the work

in
is

maintained and the stitches of a uniform length and

finished, the lines of the pattern are well

laid true.

The

first

of the linen thread or

of .making

point to be considered is the selection silk, and the proper manner

strand.

up the
is

Thread

as

now
;

sold in

designated by numbers the sizes used by harness makers are Nos. o, lo, 3, 12, and Nos. 6 and 5, the latter being the finest used 19 are of the same size, but of different colors, 5 being black, 6 white, and 19 yellow. These sizes should be used in such a manner as to secure the
the market
;

greatest strength.
to be

The
No.

rule adopted

is

to

grade

the thread according to the

number
is

of stitches

employed.

o,

which

the coai^sest,

STITCHING HARNESS.

169

should be made up with four strands, and be used where the stitches number eight or under to the inch No. lo is a little lighter than No. o, and is used in the lightest work; where the stitching is not more than ten nor less than eight to the inch, three strands are used. No. 3 is also used where the stitching ranges from eight to ten to the inch, it being finer than either 10 or o four strands are required for all ordinary work for ten to sixteen to the inch No. 12 is used, four strands being required. When the stitching is as fine as eighteen to the inch the same number is used, but only three strands for all work finer than eighteen stitches No. 5 is the only thread used this is made up with three or four strands, according to the character of the work to be done. These numbers represent the skein thread, however, varies but ball thread little in size with corresponding numbers, but, owing to its being smoother, it appears finer. For all heavy work the ball thread answers equally as well as the skein but in making up, the thread, while being twisted, should be well rubbed with the awl handle in order to remove Where the work to be done the irregularities. is fine and first-class in every respect, use the skein thread. White thread is preferred, by harness-makers who have tested its merit, on heavy stitching, owing'to its possessing greater strength than the colored.
;

Having selected
the next thing
is

the requisite
to

break

off the strands,

number of thread, wax

lyo THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

and twist them up work will prove a

strand,
it

unless this

is

well done the

failure.

In running off each

examined to prevent any up in the little lumps which are thread in most cases the found are loose and can be removed without injuring the thread where this can not be done, break it off and start anew. For stitching all
should be
hard, irregular spot being twisted
; ;

traces or other long straps, long threads are desirable in order to avoid starting with a new thread in the body of the work. Ten to eleven feet, however, is as great a length as can be used to advantage, and even this is liable to become weakened by the constant wear before being used up. In making a thread, untwist and pull apart the strand at the end, throw the center over a hook, and untwist and pull apart for the first strand repeat this operation until the required number of strands are obtained. Untwisting before breaking the thread is a matter of much more importance than is generally supposed. If carefully done, the fibres are separated but not broken, and a smooth, regular, tapered end can be obtained but if broken off, the end will be irregular and cause annoyance in threading the needles or attaching the bristles.
articles like
;
;

There is much difference of opinion as to the manner of waxing some claim that no wax
;

should be used until the strands are well twisted together, then they should be rubbed until the thread is well filled, after which it should be

rubbed with a cloth

to

remove

all

surplus wax.

STITCHING HARNESS.

I7I

Others claim that the principal part of the waxing should be done before twisting, and that the only benefit derived from using wax on the surface
is

to preserve the thread

friction occasioned

from injury by the by drawing it through the

holes in the leather.

careful examination of

the thread after having been used in stitching,

would seem to give support to the latter method of making up, as it is found, upon cutting apart, that the amount of wax left on the surface is so small as to preclude the idea of its being any advantage either as to strength or resistance to the action of water, while strands which had been well waxed before twisting retained all but the surface wax. Fine threads may be made up according to the iirst plan, but all heavy threads should be well waxed before twisting. After the strands are all broken off, rub them well by giving one turn around the awl handle and rubbing it back and forth, then apply the wax, and twist up moderately firm. A thread may be injured by twisting too firmly as well as by
leaving it loose. In the first instance it will not take the wax well and wears away rapidly; in
the second, the strands are likely to open and
therefore depend
best

The workman must is laid. upon his own judgment as to The the proper amount of twist to be given. show after
the stitch
is

the

ordinary shoemaker's

black wax,

which is made of equal parts of pitch and tallow, and is a good wax for general use but this is
;

too bard for winter,

when a

larger percentage of

172

THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

is

tallow

required,

making the proportions one

of tallow to three quarters of a pound of pitch. Various degrees of hardness may be obtained by changing the proportions. This, how-

pound

white or light-colored thread. for this purpose can be made of refined pitch and tallow, the proportions to be governed by the degree of hardness desired. Ordinary yellow and white wax are also used for light thread, but they are not as
ever, will not
for

answer good wax

good

as that

made

of pitch.

must be regular, being full, defined, and of equal length. The use of the prick wheel assists materially toward producing the last result, but unless the workman handles his awl correctly irregularities will occur. Tastes differ as to the best position for the stitches. There was a time when straight stitching was ignored by all leading manufacturers on account of its resemblance to machine work, but the improvements in the latter soon made it possible to imitate any hand stitch, and the straight stitch has once more beStitching, to appear well,

each stitch

come popular.

The custom now

practiced by

leading manufacturers is to lay all heavy stitches ten or less to the inch at a moderate angle, using a diamond-shaped awl to secure uniformit}'^ the awl is held in a position which brings a face of the angle on a line parallel with the top of the jaw of the
;

stitching-horse

to render this result certain, a

portion of the handle is flattened to correspond with the angle on the awl. If the stitching is six-

STITCHING HARNESS.

173

teen or less to the inch, the angle is reduced, but the same precaution is taken to secure regularity. All stitches where there are more than sixteen to
the inch, are laid straight.

The manner of drawing up the stitches has much to do with their uniformity drawing
:

harder on one thread than on the other will produce irregularity. A common fault with stitchers is to tighten the thread with one motion as soon as it becomes short enough for them to do so
;

impossible to lay the stitches even. No matter what the length ofthe thread, the tightening up should alwa3's be a distinct motion. If the stitches are to be flat, the force applied to both threads should be equal;
this
is

a serious

fault, as it is

if a full stitch is desired on the face side, the thread bearing against the under side should

but

be drawn the tightest care must be taken not to draw upon this thread enough to draw out the channeling. Stitchers are apt to draw the thread in the awl hand the tightest, and it requires
;

some practice

to

overcome

this difficulty.

performing a piece of work where the stitches are equally exposed from both sides, it is necessary to change the position of the thread on the side opposite the awl hand, or the work will be irregular, and it will be an easy matter to determine which is the right side. To do this work properly, enter the needles, and when that on the left side is drawn nearly out, bring the loose thread forward, and throw it over the needle, and tighten up in the usual manner.

When

1^4 TriE HAfeNESS makers' itLysTftAtEfi MAJftJAI,.

If care
is

taken to throw the thread over,

th,,

work will appear nearly as well upon the reverse as upon the right side. The points to be observed, therefore, are to
:

drive the awl through at right angles with the face of the leather, holding it so that it will always
enter the leather in the same position
at a
;

to
is

draw
set in

the threads carefully, so that each stitch

uniform depth, and the fulness retained on

the outside.
correctly.

When

the

work

is

well fitted up,

it

will not require

much power to set the stitches Around buckles, when the laps have
;

not been previously worked together, it will require more force to draw the straps together but

under no circumstance should the stitches be buried into the leather, as this has a tendency to weaken rather than strengthen the work.

CHAPTER
MAKING ROUND
of

XV.
REINS.
reins

THE very general use round upon appearance

effect

and their

the

of the harness

render it necessary that the most approved manner of making up be thoroughly understood, and entitle this branch of harness making to a separate notice. In preparing the following instructions, the grade of round russet reins known as No. 4 has been selected as the one embracing the various manipulations more thoroughly than any other, covering as it does all the essential points. Good stock is indispensable to success, and care should be taken to secure smooth, finegrained, and well tanned rein leather, the different qualities of which are clearly described in the chapter on " Russet Leather," page 33. Cut the leather seven eighths of an inch wide, and of the full length of the side soak it in clean water for a few minutes, and remove a thin shaving from the flesh side then lay it out straight upon the board, grain side down, moisten slightly with a sponge and clean water, and shave down to the required thickness slick down nicely while the leather is damp, and measure off five inches from one end for the billet and stop, and five feet six inches from this point for the round, with an ad; ; ;

176 THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANXTAL.

ditional five and a quarter inches for the handMeasure off on the rein seven eighths part lap. or three quarters of an incli, or whatever size may be necessary, for the billet lay the rein out on the board with the grain side up, secure it firmly with
;

awls, and with a channeling tool, held firmly in the

hand, channel the five feet six inches which are to be rounded trim each edge with an edge tool, as by so doing considerable work, that would otherwise have to be done with the spokeshave,
;

can be saved and a better job produced.

the width of the billet
tool, stain

which

Cut

is

five inches

on

it with a small edge and rub the edges until a good polish is produced, then with a seven-eighth inch buckle punch make the hole for the buckle about three inches from the end, and with a round knife trim down nearly to a feather edge turn the rein about, and stamp with a die, or mark off to a suitable pattern four waves running to a point is a good one stain the edges, and rub them well, then with a wide edge tool
;

the edge of the rein, edge

trim them slanting, so as to leave a raise in the

center.

Both sides being finished

as directed,

dampen
ly
;

the leather with a moist sponge, and with a raising block raise the handpart end lightif raised too much, rub down with a clean piece of paper, then with a double creaser sink the creases well, and prick off with a No. 14

prick-wheel, after which rub the edges smooth. The rein is now ready for the stop, which is made of two pieces of clean stock dampened and

MAKING ROUND

REINS.

177

shaved down to the required thickness, then pasted together and allowed to dry when perfectly dry, cut out with a die, or to a pattern, an egg-shaped or other design stitch the stop, trim off the back edge with an edge tool, dampen the
;

edges

lightly, appl3'

the stain, and rub until a

good smooth surface and polish are produced. Heat a narrow iron creaser quite warm over a gas or other light, crease the edges, and rub them with a rag until they are smooth. Trim the ends
of the stops

down

thin.

billet, which is thirteen and one half inches long, by dampening it well and rubbing it down solid with a slicker cut out the end of the billet with a half round punch, and with a small edge tool take the edge off each side to one half the length, then stain, and rub smooth with a cloth. jNIark off one and one half inches to 2:0 into the round of the rein, and five inches & more for the stop crease up the billet and punch with a No. 6 round punch, dampen the end that
; ;

Next prepare the

enters the rein so that

it

will

work

easily,

trim

down
the

to a feather edge,

and then pound down to

the mark, so that the stitcher can

;

more

easily pull

round up tight this being done, tack the billet to the rein and it is ready to be stitched. The billet, as has been stated, is marked off five inches, three inches of which are for the half-inch loops before and behind the buckle this part is channeled the width of the box loop, and a space of one half inch each way from this loop is stitched
;

with seven or eight

stitches,

drawn
it

tight

these

make

the rein firmer, and give

a better finish.

lyS THE HARNESS MAKKRS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

After the billet

filling up.

is

stitched, the rein

is

ready

for
is

To do

this, first
it

see that the iilling

can be shaved down evenl}', and, when the rein is closed up, can be pounded down to a true and smooth round. In filling up, care should be taken not to dampen the rein too much, for if too wet the leather can not be trimmed off smoothly with a spokeshave, and when dried out it becomes hard and brittle also, when filling off, the channel, instead of being close and smooth, will raise and become uneven. The proper course is to dampen it Avith a sponge, and pound down immediately. To do this, take a large awl, run it through one of the holes in the billet, fasten the rein to the board, and, with a shoemaker's hammer, pound one edge down to the end of the rein then turn the rein over, commence at the same point as before, and pound the other side down in this way the rein is evenly prepared to receive the filling. In placing the latter in position, always put in the longest pieces at the commencement, and use the short pieces down at the neck of the rein. At the end, where the handpart is sewed in, put in an end piece, or sew the handpart into the round either will do, but the former is the better plan. After the rein

thoroughly wet, so that

is

closed,

if

a little

dry

in places,

dampen

it

slight-

ly with a sponge, then trim off

with a large-sized

and also trim off the filling close to the then pound down on a board iron made for rein this purpose, having a half-round groove in which The use of this groove mateto place the rein.
edge
tool,
;

MAKING ROUND
rially lessens the

REINS.

I'jg

labor and helps to secure a good use a flat stone or board iron without a groove, but it is poor policy to do

round.
as

Some workmen

so,

where
is

has a tendency to flatten the leather bears upon the stone. The rein is now ready to be rounded up, which done by pulling it through the rounding
it
it

machine three or four times, after which trim off the edges with a sharp spokeshave as round and evenly as possible dampen the rein slightly with
;

moist sponge, pull it through the rounding machine three or four times more, and then with a hand rounder rub up and down all over the round, the object being to touch all the parts that the machine has failed to reach, therebv making them smooth. Then, with a sponge and
a a solution of oxalic acid, clean
off'

the rein and

or nearly so, apply a small quantity of a stain made of annotta and saffron in the proportion of one pint of
it

hang

up

to

dry.

When

dry,

the former to a half gill of the latter.

dampening the
stain,

reins,

After block up the loops, trim

nicely from the end of the rein to the

box loop,

rub down smoothly dampen the round slightly with the stain, and rub briskly until a nice, smooth polish appears. In order to preserve the color on the rein, dissolve shellac in alcohol, and with a clean sponge apply it to every part of the rein this, in addition to preserving the color, produces a good lustre on the

and

leather.

Rein ends can be made up

in a variety of styles.

l8o

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANtfAL.

but the general directions for manufacture are the same. Their use is to prevent the Martingale ring coming in contact with the buckle, or bit ring, where it will catch fast, and at the same time provide a neat ornament for the end of the rein. In cutting the harness maker should aim to make them not less than one quarter of an inch wider than the inside diameter of the Martingale
Figs, i, 2, 3, and 4 show four patterns, all but fig. 4 being made up as previously, directed. This is made without buckles, but a small piece of steel is bent at the point where the rein joins to the ornament, which is stitched in between the This steel hook is sometimes used with straps. other styles of rein ends.
ring.

REIN ENDS.

l8l

Fig.

I.

Fig.

2.

Fig.

3.

Fig.

4.

CHAPTER

XVI.

COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.

bridles, the IN manufacturingopportunity toharness maker has an excellent exercise taste

designing and embellishing, for in no part of is there so much opportunity given to introduce new ideas without interfering with the proper shape of the article then, too, they are the most ornate part of the harness, and there is less
in

the harness

liability to

overdo
in

in decoration.

The

v/inkers

may be made
finished

variety of styles, stitched

;

cheeks can be up in different ways, while the crowns, face pieces, fronts, gag runners, nose and chin pieces are all susceptible of a variety of changes There is no portion of a coach in form or finish. harness more difficult to make, and for that reason the bridle maker holds a high position in the
the
business.

plain or in fancy patterns

The general details for making are given in connection with the instructions for making harness in a previous chapter. Attaching the winkers to the cheeks must be done in the best manner to prevent them from " hinging ;" always clean pff the gum where the patent leather enters the

COACH

BRIDLES.

183

Fig.

I.

Fig.

2.

X84 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

cheek pieces, so that the paste

skive off to secure a smooth job.

may

adhere, and

The most popular

patterns for coach winkers

are the slightly ovaled end and the full oval. For light buggy and road harness, square or

square with round corners are preferred. Coupe, team, and heavy express winkers are similar to those used for coaches, Avhile for wagon, cart, and other cheap harness the square pattern is preferred. The various plates in this book will
give the reader a good idea of the popular form for winkers, though other styles are also used to a considerable extent. The illustrations of bridles in connection with this chapter show

some of the

distinctive patterns in detail. Fig. i represents the English coach bridle with the oval

winker. This is the popular style for all coach and heavy coup6 harness, though no exclusive pattern of winkers, cheek loops, or crown piece layers is followed. It is known as the bradoon
swivel, the peculiarity being the attaching of the

check rein-to a billet stitched to the crown piece, passing it through a swivel on the bradoon bit, thence up to the gag runner. The cuttings are
:

Leneth,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Crown

piece

28
split

if

Ends,

Layer

6J 9
12

Gag

runners Front

| f J
i|

2?

COACH BRIDLES.

i8s

Fig.

3.

..dV

.^.fi.-Ji

Fig.

4.

l86

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Length.
inches.

Width,
inches.

Nose and chin piece 33 Cheeks 29 Made up between buckles. 8 26 Bradoon rein 20 Rounded
60 Center rein Throat latch 27 Ci'own billets for bradoon rein 13 12 Face piece
Billet

li

|
i

-J
|-

I
13
S

Winker

strap
Billet

i^
I

Split

The narrow loops and center bar buckles give this bridle a showy appearance, but the regular buckles and pipe cheek loops are the most popular. With this and all other bridles where the face piece is used, a thin piece of steel should be attached to the under side to keep it
in position.

represents another style of bradoon which the bradoon bit is attached to a round cheek piece, and the swivel is dispensed
Fig.
2

bridle, in

It is claimed that a bridle of this kind causes the horse less pain, while being equally The lengths for cutting: as effective as a check. are the same as those for Fig. i, with the exception of the round cheeks, which must be ten inches long between the buckles.

with.

CARRIAGE BRIDLES.

187

Fig.

5.

Fig. 6,

ISS THE HARNESS

MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig.

7.

Fig.

8.

COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.

Fig.
3

189

a third style of bradoon cheek being flat. Fig. 4 is also a bradoon bridle, but differs from the preceding ones in the manner of attaching

represents

bridle, the extra

the gag runner.

Fig. 5 represents a plainer style of bridle, suited to the lighter grades of coach and road

harness.
Fig. 6 is designed for light double harness one of the plainest kinds in use. Fig. 7 represents a very neat bridle for single or light double harness. Fig. 8, a plain bridle with a half Kemble-Jackson check.
;

Fig. 9, a heavy bridle for a team harness the tugs on the ends of the cheeks are cut of patent leather, and may be ornamented with monograms or initial letters. Fig. 10 is designed for a team bridle, but is made up without winkers the cheeks may be made as represented, or rounded. The latter
;
;

appear much the lightest. The face piece may The most popular style of be flat or round. finishing is to round the ends below the face ornament, leaving the upper part flat. Fig. 1 1 represents a plain team harness bridle without winkers, the cheeks made up with patent leather ornaments and without buckles the crown, cheeks, and throat latch billets are cut of one piece the ornaments are stitched to the cheeks at the front piece, and held in position by two loops or the patent leather ornaments may
;
;

ItJO

THE FARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig.

g.

WAGON

BRIDLES.

191

Fig.

la

192

THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

be lined and stitched, leaving the ends open to admit the cheek pieces a cross face piece can be used in place of the nose piece, if preferred. The crown and cheeks are cut thirty-eight inches The measurements for the other straps iong. Are the same as those used for regular team
;

bridles.

Fig. 12 represents a

Crown
styles,
195.

pieces

are

German Court made up in a

bridle.

variety of

number
and

of which are given on page

have the straight layer, but difcheeks C has no layer, the gag riinner being attached to the throat latch
ferent
billet

styles of

has a folded crown

piece

with

the

layer, throat latch,

and cheek

billets cut in one,

the layer being cut with an extra billet for the gag runner ring E has the plain double waved layer F has a short layer for the half KembleJackson check, the gag runner being attached to
; ;

The same style of layer is used for Kemble-Jackson check. In both instances the opening for the check is made by a wedgeshaped piece stitched between the layer and crown piece. G shows the crown, with a short layer for securing the head terret, and an extra H shows a plain strap billet for the gag runner with an oval loop and a ring for a gag layer,
the check.

the

full

runner.

This

is

used for carrying the gag rein

well up and close to the cheek. I shows the common fold crown, with a plain waved layer.

WAGON

BRIDLES.

19.'

Fig. II.

194

'i'HE

HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. 12.

BRIDLES.

^95

Ji~

CHAPTER

XVII

RIDING BRIDLES.
bridles, though forming a very important portion of the harness maker's stock, are much less varied in character than most other leading articles, because display is not an important matter except in a limited number of cases. The military and ladies' dress bridles are the only ones ornamented to any extent even in these the principal strapping is a duplicate of the less pretentious article. The ornamenting consists- of cross face or other similar decorations. Bridles take their name, except in isolated cases, from the style of bit used, the headstall of a Pelham, bradoon, port, or snaffle being of the same pattern, made up with or without billets for the bit rings. Figs, i, 2, and 3 represent a bradoon, or
;

RIDING

loose ring, a double rein port, and a Pelham, the

strapping, with the exception of the reins, being the same in all. The regular lengths and widths for cutting with and without billets are
Length,
inches,

Width,
inches.

Crown

piece

24
7

if

Split

fCfBlNG BRIDLES.

107

Fig.

I.

Fig.

2.

Fig.
Post.

3.

Bradoor.

Double Rein

Pelham.

98 THE HARNESS MAKERs' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Cheeks Without
Billets

13
billets

15

| f f

Throat Front Reins

latch,

two buckles

12

22
52
8
billets

I
|
I

Billets

Without

56

Fig. 4 is a plain snaffle bridle, the lengths for cutting being the same as those previously noticed Fig. 5 is a single round cheek bridle, in which
;

but two pieces are used for the cheeks and crown the throat latch is cut in one piece and is rounded the whole length, the ends being joined by a
leather tassel.

The

cuttings are
Length,
inches,

Width,
inches.

Cheek, buckle side

billet side

20 24
12

f f

rounded
Billets

9
39 54
18

Throat latch Reins rounded

Billets

I | |
f
f-

Front

9 24
22

rounded

11^

Curb

straps
is

Fig. 6

a double cheek bridle with a plain port

and a

light

bradoon

bit.

The cheeks and crown

RIDING BRiDtES.

igg

Fig.

4.

Fig.

5.

Plain Snaffle.

Round Check.

20O

THE HA&NeSS makers' ILLUStRATEt) MANOAL.

piece for each bit are cut in one piece.

tings are

The
Length,
inches,

cutWidth,
inches.

Port cheeks and crown

34
12

rounded cheeks and crown Bradoon rounded

Billets

36
12 8

f f

bridle, the cuttings for

Fig. 7 represents another style of double cheek which are the same as for
5,

Fig.

both cheeks being of the same length

the nose strap, which may be used or not, is cut three quarters of an inch wide and twenty-eight

inches long, and rounded fifteen inches.

which the cheek pieces on each side are cut in one the crown piece for the cheek is also cut as one it is doubled and buckled on the crown, and is provided with two small slide loops the throat latch and crown are cut in one as are also the nose and chin
Fig. 8 represents a double cheek bridle, in
; ; ;

pieces.

The

cuttings are

Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Cheeks
rounded
Billets

33

f f f
f

24
8

Crown

piece,

made up

as

hame

strap

24
39

Throat latch

Fig. 9 represents a style of double cheek and

bit bridle

out

billets.

made up with long cheeks and The cuttings are

with-

RIDING KRIOLES.

Fig.

6.

Fig.
Port,

8.

Double Check,

and

Double Check, Round.

Bradoor.


202

THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Length,
inches.

Width,inches.
4,

Cheeks, port, buckle side

billet side

20

Bradoon,

bit,

buckle side

billet side

24 22 26
22
13

Throat latch
Front,

made up
reins
Billets

f f f f i
|-

Bradoon

Port reins

90 96
8

f f

peculiarity of these bridles is the manner which the port cheeks and throat latches are cut and made up, and the use of separate straps for the crown and cheeks for the bradoon bits.
in

The

not as popular in this country as the port and bradoon. It has double cheeks, one of which is buckled into the
bridle
is

The English Weymouth

ring on the top of the bit check, the other

is

cut

buckled into the rein ring at the end of the mouth piece, the bit used being the Pelham. Three kinds of leather are used for bridles black harness, russet, and buff. Light weights should be used in all cases, and the cheek straps and reins cut from the firmest part of the side. English russet has long been a favorite brand of leather, but the better grades of American are equal to it in every respect. Buff leather is used to a considerable extent for flat fancy bridles, to be used with saddles having seat and knee pads made of buckskin. This leather, being soft, is not
is

longer and

RrWNG

BKlCfLE'S.

205

Fig.

9.

204

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

creased, and is stitched no more than is absolutely necessary to secure the various straps. Cheap bridles are sometimes made up with plated rosettes, but leather is used on all finer grades.

CHAPTER

XVIII.

HALTERS.

HALTERS constitute a very important part of

numerous
the harness maker's stock. The varieties are though apparently unnecessary, they
;

are required to suit the preferences of different

sections of the country, and render
it

obligatory

on harness makers to be prepared at all times to meet the demands of their customers. The many illustrations in this chapter will enable the manufacturer to present to his customers correct representations to select from, while the lengths

and the directions for making up will be found of great value in the work shop.
for cutting

Fig. I. represents the United States Government regulation halter, the principal merit of which is its strength and simplicity it is easy to adjust, and can not be slipped off by the horse rubbing his head against posts or other objects.
;

The lengths

for cutting are

Inches.

Crown
Cheeks

piece

26
8

Chape

14

2o6

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig.

2.

Fig.

I.

HALTERS.
Inches.

207

Throat piece Chin piece, if double

single

22

30
18 18

Nose piece
Bolt piece

18

made up
Hitching strap, or stem
Billet

6 84
ID

The
use,

however,

regulation width is li inches; for general i inch is wide enough.

is the Spanish halter it bears a genresemblance to Fig. i, from which it was modeled, but it is put together in a different manner has a front and a cockeye attached to the bolt piece all the straps but the front are cut long, and are doubled and stitched. The

Fig. 2

eral

lengths for cutting are

Inches.

Crown

piece

42
8

Buckle chape
Throat piece Buckle chape

28
21

Cheek pieces Nose piece ^^^ Chin piece i~^

.

17

34 36
10
19

Bolt piece

Front

the latter

All the straps but the front are \\ inches wide is i inch wide rings are used for
; ;

2o8 THE HARNESS JIAKERS' ILLUSTRATED JIANUAL

Fig.

4.

Fig.

3.

HALTERS.

209

the upper, and square loops for the lower, ends of the cheeks.

a heavy French stall halter of ornamental design and finish it is used as a bridle
Fig. 3
is
;

halter as well.

The

cutting lengths are:

Inches.

Crown

piece

24
5

End

split

Cheek pieces Nose piece

Chin piece

11

16
17

Chape
Throat latch Front
Lining to nose piece

6
22
18

24

The crown piece is 2^ inches wide, the cheeks inches, and all other straps i inch the lining, which is of patent leather, is 2^ inches wide in
i|;

the center.
Fig. 4
ter.
is

The nose

a heavy piece

cleaning, or
is

groom,
a
flat

hal-

made with

iron

having three rings attached, these being used to secure the horse's head in any desired The nose piece plate is lined with position. heavy leather, and padded. The lengths for cuttop,

ting are
Inches.

Crown
Cheeks

piece
Split

22

6
15

2IO THE HARNESS makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. 6.

Fig.

s.

HALTERS.
Inches.

I 1

Throat latch Front

22

27
13
II 11

Nose piece Pad roll

Chin
billet

Chape

6
is

The crown
latch
|-

piece

of an inch,
5

all

cut i^ inches, the throat other straps i inch wide.

a
training
halter

Fig.

represents

of

neat and tasty design.

All the principal straps

are cut of bridle or buff leather, or of heavy twilled white web the chapes of black harness
;

leather for
bridle

light-colored

leather

halters,

and

or buff leather for web halters. The chapes are all of an ornamental pattern; those for securing the ends of the strapping to the rings are cut double, those holding the throat strap rings have a small billet by which the rings are secured. The lengths for cutting are:
Inches.

Long cheek

piece
"

23
17
18
12

" Short Throat piece

Nose piece.
Chin piece Buckle chape Bolt piece, made up

10
8

6^

The cheeks and bolt pieces are i inch wide, nose and chin pieces | of an inch wide.

212

THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig.

8.

HALTERS.

213

Fig-. 6 is another st3-le of training halter, which, like the preceding one, is made of buff, russet, or black leather, or of linen web. When the latter is used, the chapes should be of russet leather metallic rosettes having a stout center pin and four loops on the under side are used to connect the various parts, thus dispensing with buckles except on the throat latch chape if these rosettes are not accessible, square loops may be used for the lower ends of the cheeks, and a buckle be attached to the short cheek piece, using fancy or plain leather for rosettes. The lengths for cutting are
;
; :

Inches.

Long

cheek, including crown piece

27
15

Short cheek Front Chin piece

19
18 18

Nose piece
Throat latch
Billet
If

17

web and

leather la3rers are used, deduct from

these lengths 3 inches for each lap.

The cheeks
i

are cut li inches, the nose, front, and chin and the throat latch | of an inch wide.
Fig.

inch,

represents a

bitting
in

halter,

one

of

the

most desirable

styles

use.

It

closely

resembles the straight cheek style of years past,

the only difference being in the

ing the throat piece, and in the use of

cheeks.

manner of attachtwo short

This

may

be

made

of buff, russet, or

M4 THE HARNESS

makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. io.

Fig.

g.

HALTERS.

215

black leather. The buckles used on the checks are extra heavy, the side bar being made to answer as a substitute for loops to which the throat piece is attached. The lengths for cutting are
Inches.

Crown
Cheeks

piece

32 10

Chin, double

24
8 18

Buckle chape

Nose
Throat piece

22
15

Loop piece

All the straps with the exception of the throat this is cut i inch. piece are cut ij inches wide
;

Fig. 8 closely resembles Fig.

7,

the difference

being in
strap,

the

manner of attaching the throat

and the use of but one buckle on the

The cuttings are the same, with the exception of the cheek pieces, which are cut
cheeks.
Inches.

Long cheek
Short cheek

25 16

The loops used for securing the throat piece are of metal or leather, and are provided with a short screw, by which they are held in position. represents a strong stable halter, Fig. 9
of different construction than any previously noThe cheeks, crowns, and throat latch are ticed.

cut so as to obviate the use of the usual buckles or rings in the cheek pieces. The billet to the stem

2l6 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. 12.

Fig. II.

HALTERS.

217

and the

bolt,

or loop piece, are also in one piece.

for cutting are
:

The lengths Long

Inches.

cheek, including throat latch 52 Short cheek, including billet to throat

.

latch

Front, double

29 22
23 23
18

Nose, double Chin, double

Billet to

stem

Fig. 10 represents another peculiar style,

comde-

monly known

as the

Yankee
is
:

halter.

It

is

signed for a slip halter, and lengths for cutting are

easily

made.

The

Inches.

Head

piece

Nose piece
Braces Hitching strap

50 28
12

84

All the straps are cut of uniform width, either or li inches. Attach the braces 9 inches from the ring on the head piece. Fig. II represents a double cheek halter, designed to be used for training purposes. The lengths for cuttings are
I

Inches.

Crown
Buckle chape Cheeks
Billets

20
8

22

9
22

Extra crown piece

2l8 THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Inches.

Nose piece
Chin piece, double Front Throat latch

24
22

22

The crown
straps,

piece

is

cut

inch wide

all

other

f of an inch wide. Fig. 12 represents another style of four ring

being
in

halter, the buckles

the cheek pieces

the rings
sired.

may be covered with

a rosette,

if

de-

The

lengths for cutting are

Inches.

Crown
Cheeks Cheek billets Nose piece
Chin, double Throat piece
, .
. ;

17

14
7

18

30 26
5

Bolt piece

The

cheeks, crown, and bolt piece are cut ij

i

inches wide; the other straps,

Fig. 13
is

inch.

also designed for a training halter.

:

The

lengths for cutting are

Inches.

Long cheek and crown

Short cheek 1 hroat latch and crown Nose piece, double Chin piece, double
in

32
15

one

42

24
23
8

Loop piece

HALTERS.

219

Fig. 15.

220 THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

front

All the straps are i inch wide, excepting the this is f of an inch. Fig. 14 represents a double cheek halter with:

out buckles, except on the top of the crown. The nose and cheeks are secured in position by a layer which secures the rings the throat latch is stitched to the back cheek piece just below the face piece. The lengths for cutting are
;

Inches.

Cheeks Throat latch

Billet

21

20 6
23
25 8

Nose
Chin

piece, double piece, double

Loop

piece

The cheeks
I

are cut ^ inch wide a

four

other straps,
halter

inch.

Fig.
front,

15

represents

ring

with

and buckles on the cheeks.

The lengths
Inches,

for cutting are

Cheeks
Billets

12

51
18
8

Crown

piece

Buckle chape

All other straps, as well as the

widths, the

same
ter.

as in Fig.

Fig. 16 represents a very convenient slip hal

The

lengths for cutting are

: :

HALTERSi
Inches.

221

Crown

piece

21

Throat and cheek pieces in one Nose and chin piece in one
All the straps are cut
i

38

24

inch wide.

Fig. 17 represents a convenient style of tean'. halter to be worn with the bridle. The lengths
for cutting are
Inches.

Crown and

throat latch in one

strap in one

Nose and chin Cheeks

Bolt piece

30 26
10
7

Cuttings for a
halter

common

bridle or three ring

Length,
inches.

Width,
inches.

Cheek, including crown piece Short Front

34
12

i I I i
I-

24
18

Nose band
Chin, doubled

30
18
i

Bolt piece

Throat latch

Stem
Billet

Bit strap

39 84 9 9

f
I I

web Crown

halter

24
8
5

i^

Cheeks Chapes

4
i

i22

THE

HAfil>rEgg

MAKfiRS' ILLUSTRATED MAN'UAL.

Fig. 17.

Fig. 16.

HAtTERS.
Length,
inches.

22 ^
Width,
inches.

Front...

12

i] i

Chapes

Nose
Throat latch, leather Chin piece, leather
Bolt piece

13

1}
|
-|

39 30
18
i

Yankee one ring

halter:

Crown
Braces

piece, nose

and chin

in

one 84
12

i
i

To make
measure

this

halter,

cut

for

the

tongue, and bend

down

the buckle lap

buckle then
;

and bend down for ring; then then 28 inches, and bend for nose band place the brace in the center between the front of the nose band and center of the chin piece at the ring cross the strap through the ring, and bring the crown end up on the off side this will place the buckle on the near side. Set the crown piece at an angle so as to take the upper end of the braces. This makes a convenient halter, which easily adjusts itself to the head of any horse.
off 12 inches,
;

CHAPTER

XIX.

HORSE BOOTS.
pictured a horse on the track encased in boots, etc., from the bottom of the hoof up to the body, was not so far from the truth as many persons would suppose, for there is no part of the limb, from the knee down, for which boots are not made. The illustrations in this chapter represent the general styles, though not all the varieties in the market. There are many patented boots, some ot them possessing merit, a description of which would be of no practical use to the harness maker. There are several classes ot boots, such as the knee, shin, ankle, quarter, and combination, each of which has its distinctive name. The illustrations in this chapter have an advantage over those found elsewhere, in that nearly all are drawn in exact proportions and the descriptions are such that a harness maker may readily furnish a customer with any desired pattern. Making horse boots is not a simple operation success depends upon their being so constructed that they will retain their position without being strapped so tight as to interfere with
artist

THE with

who

his legs

the freest

movement

of the horse's leg.

To

ac-

HORSE BOOTS.

225

Complish this, the leather used for shields must be worked up firm and the securing straps placed where they will draw in direct lines. When fullness is to be given to the shields, the best plan is to cut out a V and stitch the edges together they may, however, be stamped up with dies. For convenience, each class will be described
separately.
Fig.
I

represents one of the best styles of knee

;

boot

in use

it

is

made

of heavy bridle leather,

;

two pieces, as shown by A and B the former is worked up nearly flat, except that portion below D, where it is shaped to fit to B, which is worked up full in the center a gore is
cut in
;

taken out at C, and the edges joined to secure the shape. The securing strap, D, is of medium

weight bridle leather, and is stitched to the shield is put in. The lining, which is of buckskin, is turned in all around, so that the edge is placed between the two pieces, and stitched down all around a very little wool or hair is placed between the two, and the center is secured by stitching at the highest point in the shield B. The securing strap is also lined with buckskin and stuffed with felt the billet, which .is twenty inches long and one half inch wide, is stitched to the securing strap. The buckle chape is stitched to a strong loop at the other end of the main strap
before the lining
;

the

two small loops hold

the billet in position,

it
;

being passed around the boot before it is buckled the drawing is one quarter size. Fig. 2 is a plain, heavy knee boot. This is cut

226

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.-

Fig.

I.

Fig.

2.

aORSE BOOTS.
;

22^

from one piece of leather that portion above the securing strap is flat, the lower part has a half
inch raise in the center
;

the lining

is

of buckskin,

wool or hair being used

ing strap
is

for padding.

The

secur-

cut of good, firm leather, and lined with buckskin, padded with felt. The billet is cut one half inch wide and fourteen inches long. There are five small loops, each one inch long,

placed as shown on the main strap. The drawing is one quarter size. Fig. 3 represents a peculiar shaped but desirable knee boot. It is cut from one piece of harness or bridle leather the cap piece is gored in
;

produce the requisite fullness it is lined with buckskin and padded with a single thickness of felt the lining is cut large and the edge turned in so as to form a roll all around two heavy pads are attached to the under side as bearings one is shown by the line X, the other is placed directly under the buckle the center-pad is nearly one inch thick, the one under the buckle is about three quarters of an inch thick both are made of felt placed under the buckskin. This boot when made up is nine inches long. The proportions in the drawing are based upon that measurement. Fig 4 differs but little in shape from Fig. 3, but The proportions are the is made up plainer.
places, to
;

two

same.
Figs. 6 and 7 represent two patterns of knee boots of an entirely different model from the above.

They

are also

much

lighter.

The body

of Fig.

SzS THE HARNESS MAKERs' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Pig.

4-

Fjg.

5.

; ;

HORSE BOOTS.
6
is

229

made

of enameled leather, lined throughout

;

with buckskin the shield is of heavy harness leather struck up full, and slightly padded with felt. The bearing pads, shown by the dotted lines, are raised about three quarters of an inch they are of felt, covered with buckskin. The long or top billet is cut eight inches long and three quarters of an inch wide the bottom billet is cut six inches long and three quarters of an inch wide a small gore is cut at the edges are together and blind stitched before the drawn The drawing is one third lining is stitched in. full size. the Fig. 7, though designed for the same purpose as Fig. 6, is much lighter, and, being more open, when on the knee. The is less likely to bind is so placed that it does not bear lower billet upon the cords sufficiently to displace it when the knee is bent. It is made up in the same manner
;
;

and of similar material as Fig.

leg strap
is
;

6. The upper or cut nineteen inches long and five eighths ol an inch wide the lower billet is cut ten inches long and one half inch wide. The

other proportions, as shown, are one third the

full size.

Fig.

the

body

represents a knee pad or breaking boot the leg strap is is made of heavy felt
;

stitched

to

the
is

felt

and lined with buckskin

of several thicknesses of full in the center.
in a

the knee safe

bridle leather,

made

worked up

Combination boots are made

of styles, there being at least

great variety
pat-

fifty different

230

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig,

6.

Fig.

7.

HORSE BOOTS.
terns in use.
is

231

The

principal portion of the shield

;

designed expressly to protect the shin to this is attached a cap piece for covering the knee or ankle. The styles illustrated comprise the regular lines, and, with the slight variations necessary to secure a good fit, are all that are needed.
Fig. 8 represents a shin

and ankle boot.

;

The

body
ter
is

is

leather,

made of heavy felt, the shield of worked up full at the ankle end
to the

harness the lat-

stitched

body with a

single

row

around the edge and a few stitches at each end. The shaded spaces on each side represent strips the blank space A, strips of elastic of leather web these are attached to the body by the stitching shown on the strips nearest the shield the remaining portion of the webs and the straps to which the buckle chapes and billets are at; ;

tached are

left

loose, the portion

under them acting as a

elastic strips the

safe

of the body by the use of these

is

boot

is

freed from the rigidity

so often noticeable, and the horse

relieved from

any

undue pressure.
;

The

shield

when made

up is eight inches long the reduced size of the drawing is based upon that measurement. Another style of shin and ankle boot is shown by Fig. 9, which may also be used as a shin and knee boot. The body is of heavy felt, bound on the top and bottom edges with thin leather, and
throughout with buckskin the shield is padded with hair. The dimensions of this boot are body, nine inches wide and six and one half inches deep the billets are four inches, and the
lined
; :

232

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig.

S.

Fig.

g.

HORSE BOOTS.

233

buckle chapes three inches, long. The shield is reduced in the same proportions as the body. A light cord and knee boot is shown by Fig. The body is made of black enameled leather, ID. lined with buckskin, double stitched. The shield is of heavy harness leather, worked up full and padded with hair, the buckskin lining extending
the full length of the shield. The billets are cut three eighths of an inch wide and seven inches long, the buckle chapes the same width and one

and one quarter inches long the proportions are one sixth the full size. Fig,. 1 1 illustrates a knee and cord boot of an;

other

pattern.

The body
;

is

cut of

medium

weight harness leather, and bound with light enameled leather the leg strap is made of strips of black enameled leather, stitched together on the edges and through the center, and stuffed with hair; it is attached to the body by two thicknesses of black enameled leather the shield The bilis of heavy leather, padded with hair. lets on the body are five inches long and one half inch wide the billet on the leg strap is five and one half inches long and one half inch wide. The drawing is one sixth actual size. Fig. 12 represents a combined shin, ankle, and cord boot. The body, B, is of heavy felt, bound with buckskin the shield. A, of heavy harness D, a leather, worked up full at the lower end piece of heavy leather, lined with buckskin, stuffed with hair so as to make a cushion about one half inch thick; C, two pieces of elastic
; ; ; ;

2-34

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. 10.

Fig. II.

Fig. t2.

HORSE BOOTS.

23s

web, the outside piece being cut a little wider than the other the web is secured in position by the stitching which is used to attach the shield A and piece D to the body and lining the billets are attached at the shield, and pass through small loops near the outer edge of the body E represents the cord piece, made of heavy leather, lined with buckskin at the lower end, an inside layer being attached at the top of the cap and extending up to the top, where there are two holes, as shown in E, through which a round leather lacer passes, and by which the top ends are joined. When the cord piece is used, the thin piece is placed between the two pieces of web, C, and the top, secured by the lacer. The drawing is one fourth the actual size. Two other styles of combination boots are shown by Figs. 13 and 14, an ankle and wrist Fig 13, the body, is of heavy blue kersey, boot. bound with light enameled leather the shield is the ankle portion is of heavy harness leather worked up full and hard owing to the thickness of the material used in the body, no stuffing is
; ; ;

The wrist strap is of elastic web it passes between the shield and body, and is held in posiThe billets for the top are tion by the stitching. cut five and one half inches long and one half inch wide the kersey body is cut nine and one half inches wide across the top and eight inches long the shield is three and three quarter inches in diameter all other parts are drawn to the same
used.
; ;

scale.

236 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

I'te. 14.

Fig. 13.

HORSE BOOTS.

2^7

Fig. 14 represents a combined shin, ankle, and wrist boot, made up of the same materials and in the same manner as Fig. 13. It is cut two inches

longer than the latter, otherwise the proportions same the billets are cut five inches long and one half inch wide. The wrist web is seveneighths of an inch wide. Fig. 15 shows a design of shin and ankle boot intended as a protection to the hind legs. The body is made of black enameled leather, lined throughout with buckskin. The shin shield has but little fullness, and is padded on the under side with hair placed between the enameled leather and the buckskin, the padded section being quilted to hold the hair in position. The body to the ankle portion is also of enameled leather, lined in like manner as the shin body the shield is of harness leather, worked up full and hard. The set of this piece depends much upon the position of the billets and buckle chape these are shown in their proper position. The body of the shin boot is eight and three quarter inches across the top and ten and three quarter inches across the bottom the shield is seven and three quarter inches long; the ankle shield is two and three quarter inches in diameter, all other proportions being relatively the same. The ankle billet is cut eight inches long and five eighth inches wide, about one half the length being rounded and covered with buckare the
; ; ; ;

skin.

A shin,

ankle,

and speedy cut boot

is

shown by

238

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. 15.

HORSE BOOTS.

239

Fig. 16, which, like the preceding boot, is designed for the hind leg, the pattern being one of the best in use the speedy cut portion, C, is made up separate from the shin boot, and is held in position by the lower billet of the latter passing through a long loop on the top end. The body, B, is of heavy kersey the shield, of harness leather, worked up slightly in the leg part and full at the ankle the under side ot the shield is padded with hair the pastern piece, C, is of black enameled leather, lined with buckskin the shield, D, of harness leather, slightly rounded up the billet attached to the pastern piece is covered for about one half its length with buckskin. The two upper boot billets are five inches long and five-eighths of an inch wide the lower billet is cut nine inches long the pastern billet is cut eight inches long, one half inch wide. The illustration is drawn to one quarter the full size. Fig. 17 represents an improved ankle boot, lighter than most other kinds, and the location of the shield is such as to give greater protection to The the ankle than that of the ordinary boot. body is cut of harness leather the shield, which is two and one half inches in diameter, is made of harness leather, worked up full and hard a gore is taken out of the body, the edges are closed up smooth under the concave of the shield. Two bearing cushions are used, one imder the buckle chape, the other as shown by the dotted lines near the billet these are of felt, covered with buckskin the one imder the chape is two and
;
;

240 THE HARNESS

MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

FiG.'i6.

HORSE BOOTS.

241

one

quarter

half inches

wide

inches the other, one and one long and seven eighths of an inch the boot is lined throughout with thin
;

patent

leather.

The
line,

full

measurements are:
;

length on the top

width of square widest point, four inches. The center of shield is six and one quarter inches from the corner at the billet end and five inches at buckle end the billet is six inches long and
;

eight and one half inches ends, one inch depth at the
the top the

one

half inch wide. Fig.

18 represents a plain,
is

cheap ankle boot

;

the

body

of heavy kersey, single or double of harness leather,

;

the shield

is

worked up

full

and hard at the ankle the shield is six inches long and three and one half inches wide at widest point and two inches wide at the the top the proportions of the body are based upon this measurement. The billets are five and one half inches long and one half inch wide
;

they, as well as the buckle chapes, are stitched to

the

body two and one

half inches

back of the
Fig.
19.

edges.

A
The
full

more expensive boot

shield
is

is

shown by
of

of heavy russet leather struck

;

up

and hard
it is

the

body
;

is

heavy
is

kerse}',

bound with buckskin

leather;
it,

of russet nine inches long and one inch wide

is

the leg strap

secured to the body The various proshield, four and one half inches portions are long, three and one half inches wide at the
as well as the shield,

by a single row of
:

stitching.

242

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. 17.

Fis. 18.

HORSE BOOTS.

243

broadest point and two inches at the leg strap the bearing pad, A, is one and one half inches long and one half inch thick the billet is cut six inches long and one half inch wide. Fig. 20 represents the hard leather cup ankle The body is cut of heavy harness leather boot. a large gore is cut out of the top side, the edges of which are afterwards joined and blind stitched on the outside the edges of the gore must be cut with a slight curve, in order to secure a regular circular fullness the layer is cut of heavy
; ;
;

leather,

worked up
is

full

and stitched to the body

the buckle chape

cut three and one half inches

long, and the billet eleven inches long. Two bearing cushions are used one is shown by C, the outlines of the other by the dotted line near the top of the shield. These are of buckskin, stuffed
;

with hair.

The

inside of the boot

is

skived

off

around the lower edge, care being taken to avoid all irregularities. The small cut A represents a side view of this boot. The large drawing is one half actual size. Heel boots constitute a distinct class, of which there is a great variety but those shown by the

smooth

all

illustrations are all that are required for general

use.
class
;

Fig. 21 represents a well fitting boot of this

the
;

body

is

cut of
is

medium weight

harness

leather
shield

the layer

cut of heavy stock, worked

up hard and
;

stiffened by the layer under the three gores are cut out of the top of the body, and the edges are joined and secured by blind stitches a sniall section is gashed to form
;

244

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

HORSE BOOTS.
a fringe.

^45

The body is cut nine and one half inches long on the top line, four and one half inches deep in the center, and three inches at the ends the shield is six inches long and two
;

and one half inches deep the billets are three inches long and one and one half inches wide. A plain, serviceable quarter boot is shown by Fig. 22 it is made of a single piece of heavy harness leather, lined with felt the top edge is cut as shown to provide a yielding surface and pre; ;
;

vent injury to the horse six gores are taken out of the bottom the edges are joined to produce the required shape the felt lining extends
; ; ;

to the top and within one half inch of the bottom,

and is secured as shown by the lines of stitching. Buckles are not used, the ends being fastened by means of loops attached to one, and holes cut through the other to admit their passing through they are then locked by a heavy billet as shown. An ordinar)^ boot is fourteen inches long on the top line of stitches, the line being described by a twelve inch radius the lower line is contracted by the goring to twenty inches the depth when made up is four inches.
;
;

Fig. 23 represents a toe boot for the hind foot

this is

made up

of heavy harness leather

the top

with buckskin and padded. The full length of the body is twelve inches depth, five and one half inches the bottom line has a sweep of three inches the buckle and roller loop chape is cut three and one half inches long.
section, indicated
line, is lined
; ;
;

by the dotted

246

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSJ-RATED MANUAL.

3.
Fig. 21.

Fig. 22.

Fig. 23.

Fia. 34-

SORSE BOOTS.

^47

is

Another boot designed for the same purpose shown by Fig. 24; this is cut of heavy leather,

the top being lined with buckskin to

make

cushion one inch deep. Toe weight boots are designed for an entirely different purpose than those previously noticed, but they properly belong to this department. Fig. 25 represents a boot with two weights, A these are of lead, covered with leather. The body of the boot is of heavy leather, cut twentyone and three quarter inches long on the lower line, and three and one eighth inches deep in the center. The billet is fourteen inches long and five eighths of an inch wide the buckle chape is nine and one half inches long it is attached to the lower edge of the body, and passes through a slot on the opposite side the billet is attached in like manner and passed through a similar slot. Another toe weight is shown by Figs. 26 and 27 the body, A, is of leather, haying two slots as shown by X; the weight, B, is of lead, secured by an adjustable hook shown by Fig. 27; this is secured by a single strap which passes through the slots in the body and hook. A combined weight and quarter boot is shown by Fig. 28. The body is cut of one piece, of heavy leather, the quarter form being produced by gores the quarter is lined with heavy felt and stiffened by layers the toe weight and securing hook are secured by a piece of leather stitched to the body the securing strap is stitched to the toe, and passes through a roller loop back to the buckle.
;
; ;

248 THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig. 25.

Fig. 27.

Fig. 28.

CHAPTER XX.
HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
describing harness mountings, is notthe IN tention of the author to draw comparisons init

as

to the respective merits of

any

class or style.

The

sole

aim

is

to give a correct description of the va-

rious kinds, their peculiarities

of manufacture,

and such other information as will enable the reader to judge as to the adaptability of any particular style for a specific use.

may be fully explained, they be divided into five classes, as follows Plated, whether silver, gold, or nickel pure metal covered, whether leather or composition japanned, and tinned. Plated mountings are divided into two classes close plate, those in which the fine metal is rolled out in thin sheets and applied as a covering to the iron or composition forming the body of the article, and caused to adhere by means of solder and heat elective plate, those in which the fine metal is dissolved and formed into a liquid solution, into which the articles to be coated are suspended, and by the application of an electric current the fine metal is evenly deposited upon the surface of the iron or composition.
In order that they
will
; ;

250 THE HARNESS makers'' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL;

is rolled out in designated by sheets of various thicknesses, and numbers, the, lightest being No. i following, this are three grades, designated as No. ij light, fair, and stout, the former weighing three pennyweights to a foot in length by 6.^ inches in width the second weighs 3^ penn3'-weights, while the Next to these third weighs 4} pennyweights.

The

silver used for close plating

are three grades, designated as No. 2 light, fair, and stout. The first weighs 5J, the second 6|,

and the third 7^ pennyweights to the foot. Following these are three grades, designated as No. The first weighs 8^, 2^ light, fair, and stout. the second 9-|-, and the third io|- pennyweights to the foot. The second is also designated as " Knob ;" and the third, " Heavy Knob." The latter is seldom used on harness mountings, as it can not be woi'ked to an advantage except by the hard solder process, which is too expensive for harness work. " Knob" silver is the heaviest used for the regular trade. It will be seen that there are eight grades of silver below the " Knob," which explains in part

why there is so great a difference in the prices of plated goods of any one pattern for, based upon
;

the government standard, a foot of No. i silver, 6^ inches wide, would be worth 13.6 cents, while

afoot of
is

" Knob" silver would be 64.6; but the actual difference in the prices of the rolled plate

even greater than

is

labor

much

light silver.

this. Then, too, the cost of greater for putting on heavy than The former is so thin that but little

H'ARlSl^;sS

MOUNTINGS'.
it

25!

labor

is

required to solder

to the article to be

plated, while the extra thickness of the latter necessitates extra skill

and time. Buyers who are not experts are

at a loss

how

This can be done by examining the surface closely the thinner the silver the less dense and perfect' the surface. No. I will show minute holes in great number, while the surface of " Knob" will be perfect to the naked eye. It is not so easy to distinguish between two succeeding grades, but by a little care a person who handles these goods can learn to select each distinct grade. Close plate can be easily distinguished from the electro plate. All that is required is to breathe upon the polished
;

to determine the quality of the plate.

if it is close plate the seam where the joined will be seen at a glance, it showing a bluish streak the heavier the plate the more distinct the seam.

surface,

and

metal

is

Electro plate is less durable than close plate but when deposited in sufficient quantity and hand burnished, it will wear well; the surface, however, is less perfect than the former, as the thin coating of silver is deposited evenly over the entire surface, and an irregularity in the casting will show itself after the work is burnished in fact, blemishes are more easily detected after being plated and burnished than before, as the minute depressions can not be reached by the burnisher, and they therefore show dead, white
; ;

spots.

The

peculiar white lustre of silver distinguishes

ig2

THE HARNESS makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

from other metals, but there are other tests by which the uninitiated may satisfy themselves as The simplest is to prepare a cold to the quality. saturated solution of bichromate of potassa in niit

tric acid.

little

of this

may

be applied to the

surface (which

of a glass cold water. If the article tested is pure silver, a blood-red colored mark will appear; if the article is German silver, the liquid appears brown, but the mark shows no shade of red. On other white metals there are various actions, but in none but the silver does the red mark appear. Persons unacquainted with the nature of silver condemn an article as impure because of its tarnishing. This is erroneous, as pure silver assumes a dingy reddish brown, and loses its lustre more readily than some of the composition white metals. Gold plating is always done by the electro process, the other processes for appl3nng it to coarser metal not being adapted to harness mountings. It is the most showy but frailest plating in use the thin deposit is naturally soft, and but little friction is required to remove it. If hand burnished, the gold is made more dense than otherwise but even this is not as durable as other
;
;

must be perfectly clean) by means rod, and washed off immediately with

There is no such an article of manufacture as close plate gold, nor can there be unless a solder can be produced which will melt under a
plating.

lower heat than gold, and as there

is

no such

sol-

HARNnr.r) ^^ll:.--:xcs.

253

der at this time, all claims of a gold covered article being close plate are fraudulent. The introduction of nickel as a covering for mountings has produced a marked change in some lines of goods, supplanting as it has in a great measure burnishing on bits, stirrups, spurs, etc., and being largely used as a plate for all kinds of harness mountings. The nickel is deposited by the electro process, but, as it is a hard metal, it

wears
thing

well.

The
It

color
finel}'

is

a bluish white,

more
will

closely resembling
else.

polished steel than any

does not tarnish easily, and

The only objection to it aside from not rust. the color is that it will sometimes peel that is, the nickel will become detached from the iron or

composition core but this is due either to some defect in cleaning the surface to be plated or in the manner of depositing the nickel. Improvements are being made in the process of depositing the nickel, and there is every reason to believe that the objectionable features will be overcome, and with the reduction in price it Avill take the place of tinned and other low priced white metal goods. The next class are those goods made of some composition metal, such as brass, oroide, aluminum, and German silver. Brass has long been a favorite mounting, though in this country it has been deemed better suited to express and other heavy mountings than for coach or light carriage harness but fashion has once more brought it
; ;

254 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

on coach harness, and it is likely, for a assume the position held by gold time The advantages of brass are for some years past. any form, retains its malleathat it can be cast to bility, is quite dense, and readily receives a brilliant polish but its proneness to tarnish is an objection which tends to overcome its good qualities. The color is i-egulated by the proportions of the metals forming the compound, and skill in the moulder in turning it off just when it has been raised to the proper heat. Oroide, like brass, is a )'ellow metal, and when first introduced was recommended as a substiwhen polished it has a golden tute for gold color, but it tarnishes too easily to be used without being plated. It, however, furnishes an excellent base for gilding, and for that reason is largely used. It can be cast as easily as brass, and' is equally malleable it can also be used for plating iron articles which are to be gilded, but if not plated or gilded it possesses but few advantages over ordinary brass. Aluminum, or, as it is also called, alumina bronze, is the finest yellow metal produced its color closely resembles that of gold, while it is susceptible of as high a polish as the latter it is tough, though next to gold in lightness, but its high price prevents its being used for any but the most expensive mountings. German silver is used to a considerable extent for mountings which are to be plated with silver. For this purpose it is the best white metal
into use

at least, to

HARNESS- MOUNTINGS.

2^j

known
they

other kinds have been introduced, but not proven suitable for mountings. The objection to all composition castings is their lack of rigidity, and they should never be these used for check rein hooks of any kind should be of iron, and plated to correspond with
;

have

the ferrets, etc.

Composition possesses one great advantage over iron which should be understood by harness makers and consumers. It does not rust, and can therefore be used in localities where iron can not, owing to the proneness of the latter to rust particularly on the sea coast, where the sea air acts very injuriously on plated mountings. Covered mountings consist of two kinds, those in which the metal is covered with leather, and, secondly, those having a metal core covered with a plastic composition. Leather covered is one of the oldest styles of mounting in use, but it was many years before it reached the state of perfection so noticeable at the present time. The durability, as well as the appearance of these mountings, depends upon the character of the leather used and the manner of putting it on. Calfskin, or very fine grained kip, are the only kinds of leather suited to covering mountings, but many of the cheaper grades are covered with sheepThose conversant skin or thin split leather. with working leather can readily understand the advantage arising from the use of thin, light stock, the work of putting on being reduced at The inferior character ol least one half thereby.

i^6

THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

work shows itself in a short time in the seams ripping or the leather cracking. Thick, firm leather requires more care in putting on and stitching, but it finishes much finer, and is more durable than the cheaper work. The manner of covering is very simple the leather is first cut to the required shape it is then soaked in water until it is soft and pliable, after which paste is applied, and the leather is worked around the metal by means of slicking sticks, and the edges joined by means of pinchers, or by placing the article in dies and pressing them together and allowing them to remain on until the leather is dry, after which the seam is stitched by hand or machine, the welt trued off, and the leather blacked and finished. The liability of the seam ripping has caused manufacturers to resort to different methods of putting on the leather and securing it one method is the use of two seams on the edges in place of the one center seam so long in use the advantage claimed for this method is the protection given to one side of the seam by the metal lining, and at the same time the article produced
the
:

is

more ornamental. Another plan is

to dispense
;

entirely on the outside

this is

with the seam done by joining

imitations of

the edges of the leather on the inside of the ring,

these being protected by the lining
;

the

double and single seams are produced by casting them on the iron and working the leather

down smooth

to the outlines of the metal.

The

HARNESS MOUNTINGS.

257

most recent improvement in making leather covered mountings is to draw the leather over the metal ring, which has previously been channeled, to allow for the full thickness of the leather,

the rim on the edge forming a perfect protection

to the leather
nial,"
;

this style

is

known

as the " Centen-

found on Small leather covered harness buckles 263. are more generally used than any others, the greater portion of these being imported from England, where they are produced at much lower prices than in America. The composition covered mountings are hard rubber and celluloid. The first was patented in
illustration of

an

which

will be

page

1866, by Ralph Dunham, of Connecticut, as a covering for harness buckles and rings; in 1867 Andrew Albright, of Newark, N. J., obtained a patent for covering harness and carriage mountings with rubber, these two patents being the first taken out though early in the history of hard rubber, experiments were made in covering harness mountings, but the idea was abandoned but since the two patents above mentioned were taken out great improvements have been made, and rubber mountings are an

acknowledged success.

The manufacture

of these mountings,

though

not directly connected with the manufacture of harness, is interesting, and a description of the

process will serve to give the reader a general idea of their peculiarities and merits. Every article is made with a metal core of about the

258 THE HARXESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

same weight

as that used

for

leather covered

cleaned up work. This core, or casting, struck up in a and made perfectly true by being die; If any portion is to be plated, this is. done, and the article is then taken to the rubber room The rubber used is of the best to be covered. Para gum, mixed in the proportion of two parts of gum to one part of pulverized sulphur; it is furnished in long sheets, varying from one to
Is first

four lines

French measure

in thickness,

and

is

kept rolled up in enameled cloth. Sheets of the rubber are laid out on a table and cut to such shapes as are needed for each article to be covered. The various pieces are then laid out on a piece of enameled cloth and saturated with ben-

covered up, and allowed to remain in this condition overnight, by which time the rubber
zine,

becomes sticky it is then wrapped around the metal body, care being taken to exclude air and to firmly weld the edges after covering, the plated parts, if there be any, are covered with tin foil, when they are ready to be vulcanized to do this the goods are either placed in moulds, buried in soapstone, or hung in an open pan. The vulcanator is a large tube made of boiler iron, and sufficiently strong to sustain a. very heavy pressure of steam. After the. goods are in the vul;
;

canator, the door

is

closed and packed tight and

the goods are in pans and open steam," they are subfor

the steam let on

if

are to be cured by

"

jected to a heat of 20 degrees

additional degrees are gradually

one hour 10 added each hour,

;

HARNESS MOUNTINGS.

259

until 65 degrees are reached (where the goods are in soapstone, tlie heat is raised to 65 degi'ees

After having been subjected to this heat for the proper length of time, the goods are
at the start).

removed, and
rings, etc., are

all

small articles, such as buckles,

into a tumbling barrel and tumbled with charcoal and water until the rough edges are removed they are then placed into a steam box and heated each article is then placed into steel dies and pressed by powerful hydraulic
;

thrown

presses

this sets the rubber,

forms a true
;

finish,

and

sets a

row

of imitation stitches

the smaller

articles are again

tumbled

for a short time,

when

they are ready to be finished. Large articles have to be trued up by hand, then cleaned on the ash wheel, from which they are taken to the buff wheels the first is used with rotten stone, the second is dry having passed through these, the articles have a fine polish and a jet black color, after which they are lined and plated, and made ready for the market. Up to the present time these goods have never been made anywhere but in this country. They have a fine finish and are very durable, and will, without doubt, eventually become popular wherever harness is used. Celluloid mountings are of recent origin, and are made only in this country. The composition is a chemical compound which closely resembles amber it can be colored any desirable shade, and does not fade through use. These mountings, like those of rubber, have a metal core coated with The process of manufacture is the composition.
;

SOO THE HARNESS MAKERS

interesting.

ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

The castings are first trued up they are then taken to the stuffer to be coated they are then placed into moulds, or " stuffing
dies."
for

These are made of metal. The recess is provided with a number of small iron pins, upon which the castings rest. The arrangement of the moulds is precisely the same as that for casting metal. After the castings are placed into position, the moulds are closed up and placed into a recess at the foot of
the casting

The latter is nearly filled with celluloid, and heated up to 190 degrees. After the die is secured in its place, a plunger, which is worked by hydraulic pressure, descends upon the hot gum and forces it into the dies in sufficient quantities to completely fill the moulds and cover the metal cores. The die is then removed, and in a few minutes emptied of its contents, and again made ready for stuffing. After being stuffed, the goods are removed to a drying room heated by steam, and allowed to season. They are then taken to the hydraulic forming the mountings are put into highly presses polished steel dies, and submitted to a fifty-ton pressure, which renders the material compact and produces a finely finished surface, after which they are lined, plated, and finished up ready for
the stuffing cylinder.
;

delivery.

Black

is

handsome
no

the predominating color, but a very imitation of russet, as well as a good

flesh color, has also

difficulty in securing

been produced. As there is any color, the produc-

HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
tion of other shades than those

261

mentioned de-

pends upon the demand.

Celluloid martingale rings are a new article of manufacture. These closely resemble ivory in appearance, are much stronger, and are sold at lower prices than the latter. They are made of solid gum, which, after being colored, runs out into tubes of the required size. These are cut up into rings and thoroughly seasoned, after which they are taken to automatic lathes and turned up. They are then polished, and packed ready
for shipping.

they are known by the cheapest lines of goods. The metal castings are thoroughly cleaned, and then dipped into molten tin. The

Tinned mountings,

or, as

the trade, "

XC

plate," are

among

quality of the deposit depends entirely

skill

upon the

and care of the workman. Japanned mountings are those covered with a coat of black varnish which is solidified by These are plain, and, if properly made, heat. quite durable. They are, however, so well known that no extended description is necessary. The various illustrations of mountings in this chapter represent the popular styles now in the market, some of which are made by the general
while others are patented either as designs or as new articles of manufacture. The " Grant,"
tirade,

Ariington " are patented as deDouble Seam," as a design and a new signs the article of manufacture. This was fully described in connection with other leather covered mount"

Bismarck," and
"
;

"

262

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

ings.
Tiiis

The " Imperial " is patented as a design. is made of composition metal, either white

or yellow, and lined with hard rubber, the latter being turned up and finished off' flush with the outside, leaving a narrow black edge with a meThis pattern is not lined, the tallic band center. wear coming direct upon the rubber, which, owing to its hardness, will wear longer than metal linings. One pattern of the ball wire mounting is also patented. The wire of this is covered with rubber and finished perfectly plain, while the ball and base are plated. The " Centennial" isanother patented mounting. This is made of metal cast with a recess upon the outside of the band, into wJiich leather is worked while wet the ends, firmly secured at the post, are an imitation seam pricked in on both edges. The appearance of this is exactly the reverse of the " Imperial." The centre is black, and the lining, edges, and head are of metal. The illustrations of post, pad, and bolt hooks and head terrets give a general idea of these articles, though not representing all the styles. All the popular patterns of terrets have hooks and fly terrets to match and in ordering, the harness maker or dealer can always procure them in sets or by the package.
; ;

TERRETS.

263

Ball Wire.

Plain Wire.

264 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Oval,

Band.

HEAD TERRETS.

265

^sa^'^

-T
Ball Wire.

Oval.

266 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Centennial.

Grant.

Wire BsU.

Acorn.

FLY HOOKS.

267

Band Fly Hook.

Oval Fly Hook.

.;Wire.Ball,

Plftjrv

Wire,

268

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Oval Post Hook.

Ball Wire, Fly.

B^nd C Hook,

Ov^l

C Hook.

FLY BOtr HOOKS.

z5g

Oval Fly Bolt Hook.

Band Post Hook.

Wire.

Oval Pad Hook.

i-jti

t'he hakn'ess

makers' ILLUSTRATITD WAfTUAt.

Band.

Oval Wire.

Flat Top.

Scroll

Duck

Bill.

Oval.

Plain

Duck

Bill.

CHAPTER
BUCKLES.

XXI.

great variety of harness buckles in the enables the harness manufacturer to procure those suited to every pattern of mounting. The illustrations in. this chapter represent patterns suited to general use. In addition to
these, buckles are

THE market

made

to

match every
is

style ot

mounting.
sary.

An extended description

not neces-

The " Sensible" is one of the best in the market, owing to the form of the under side. It does not bend the strap as much as other patterns it can be used wfth oval, " Grant," and band mountThe " Victoria" and " Vermont " match ings. The well with the same patterns of mountings. band, " Bonner," and " Square Philadelphia"
;

are used with

flat

band patterns, the

"

West End

"

and other wire buckles with wire and oval terTrace and collar buckles are made in as rets.
great variety as the smaller harness, the patterns being similar, but the center bar is used but little except as a trace buckle.
the trace
lies

A buckle peculiar to this country one in which

perfectly
flat

and

is

easily adjusted

is

known

as the "

invention of made by various persons, until at the present

wedge tongue." This was the Improvements were Mr. Coles.

2 7'2

THE SARrfESS makers'' ILLUSfRAtED MANUAt.

time there are several varieties operating much the same as, and bearing a close resemblance to, the original. The " Coles," Fig. i, represents the original after having been so modified as to make
it

practical.

The

" Coles,"

Fig.

2,

represents

the latest improvement in the way of a spring, which prevents the wedge getting out of place

not drawn up tight. The buckle is in the wedge. This is provided with a tongue or spur on the under side, which sets into a hole in the trace and takes the place of the ordinarj'^ tongue when the trace is drawn up, the wedge bears against the cross bar and holds the spur in position, and at the same time produces a pressure which relieves the strap at the hole of much of the strain which would otherwise be put upon it.

when

the trace

is

peculiarity of

this

Fig. 3
sition,

but bar

it

shows the " Kinne " This, when in pobears a close resemblance to the " Cole," operates somewhat differently. The cross
loose and the bearings
it,

is

upon the pier

plate

press against

producing the same result as the

wedge.
Fig. 4 represents the " Kinne" without loops. This is used on single harness. These buckles are very strong, and are made in all sizes from ij
to 2 inches

fATENT TRACE BUCKLES.

27^

Fig.

2.

Fig. 4-

274 1HE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAIv

Sensible.

Vermont.

Victoria.

Metropolitan.

Philadelphia.

Union.

HARNESS

BtrcKLETS.

tU

Square Philadelphia.

Bonner

Crescent.

Band.

West End.

Crown.

276 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAi*

"Wire.

Hoiseshoc.

Square Roller,

Barrel Roller.

Covered Ring.

Wire

Bridle.

Covered Bridle.

TRACE BUCKLES.

277

Ribbon.

Sensible.

Light Band.

Covered Roller.

Band.

Covered.

MANUAL. 2/8 THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED

Imperial.

Wire.

Band.

Boston.

Arlington,

COLLAR UUCKLES.

279

Band.

Philadelphia.

Boston

Oval.

Square,

jjOop End,

28o THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Congress.

Manhattan.

Perforated Loop.

Sensible,

CHAPTER
BITS
BRIDLE

XXII.

AND BITTING HARNESS.

BITS.

of bit makers of all countries has been taxed to the utmost to produce bits suited to all horses, and many are the harsh and brutal devices introduced but with the exl
;

''r^HE ingenuity

ception of the Mexican or Texan bit, very few of the harsh kinds are now in use. For this reason

be paid to any but those suited The illustrations show a good variety, but they all come under the general classification of snaffle, ring, bradoon, or

no attention

will

to the general trade.

lever.

The

snaffle is frequently defined as a bit

a jointed

mouth

this is incorrect, as the

having cheek
pieces
chain,

piece alone decides the name, the

mouth
post,

being designated as
leather, hinge, etc.

stiff,

jointed,
i

Figs,

and

2 illustrate

two
;

styles of snaffle.

The

first is

the second, the " Dexter

stiff

;"

the regular pattern both are made up with

as

well as jointed mouths.

is

The
bit

origin of

the

name

unknown

but

when a

maker

re-

ceives an order for a " snaffle bit," he furnishes

one with cheek pieces like that in and bars of which are of one piece
snafHe
is

Fig.
;

if

i, the ring a " Dexter"

ordered,

it is

like Fig. 2, the peculiarity

282

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

which is the shape of the mouth piece, it being large at the cheek and small at the joint. ring bit is one having rings instead of rings
of

and cheek pieces combined. The portion, however, which is surrounded by the head on the mouth piece is turned so as to give a straight bearing and provide two shoulders, which prevents the ring slipping through the hole in the heads of the mouth piece. The bra-

doon

has a ring cheek, but the wire is of uniform thickness, and the ring is loose in the ends of the mouth piece. Lever, or gag, bits (as they
bit

are generally called) are made up in a variety of ornamental patterns, with stiff or loose cheeks.

Hanoverian," Fig. 3, is used more than any For coach or coup6 harness the other pattern. " Buxton" is the most popular. This has a scroll cheek and a loose mouth, which slides up and down on a straight section of the cheek. Trotting snaffles are made in a variety of patThe " Dan terns, and as a rule with half cheeks. Mace" is one of this class the small loop on the cheek piece is used to secure a cross strap, thus connecting the two cheeks in such a manner that they act together when either rein is pulled. The " Ben Lane," " Dexter," and other half cheek bits are also provided with the loop. The various other patterns shown need no explana-

The

"

tion.

Bits are made of wrought iron throughout, wrought mouth and malleable cheeks, or all malleable.

The

first

are sometimes designated as

BITS

AND BITTING HARNESS.

is

283

steel bits

but this

mere pretence,

as steel

is

being preferable. The wrought bit is the most expensive, but it is the only reliable kind, and no horse possessing any spirit should be driven with any
in their
fine iron

seldom used

manufacture,

other.

malleable cheek
bit

is the wrought mouth and and lastly, the all malleable, a which should never be used. Some are suffi-

Next

to this
;

ciently strong, but the unreliability of malleable

iron should

condemn

it

for bits of

any kind.

convenient manner of numbering has been adopted by some bit manufacturers, by which a buyer can tell at a glance just what the article is. If a buyer orders a No. 1336, he would be furnished with a first quality ring bit with a -j^ inch mouth piece, having two i|inch rings. Should the number be 1356, he would secure the same kind of bit with three inch
rings
;

A very

for a loose ring bit the first

and

last

num-

bers would be the same, with 24 as the pattern number. Snaffles are designated by 52, and half cheek of the regular pattern by 53, and " Han-

overians" by "jQ. A first quality loose ring bit would be designated by No. 1246, a snaffle by

by 1536, and a " Hanoverian" by 1766, the first and last numbers being changed to designate quality and size. When used first, the numbers 1,2, 3, 4, etc., represent the quality the final numbers, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9
1526, a half

cheek

snaffle

give the size of the mouth pieces in sixteenths of an inch the addition of the fraction ^ designates a jointed mouth.
;

2S4

THE harness-makers' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Fig.

6.

Ben Lane.

BRIDLE BITS.

285

Half Check Dexter.

Fig.

5.

Dan Mace

Ring.

Check Bradoor.

286

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Bits are finished in a variety of styles, as fol-

lows " Polished," those which are not plated, but are burnished up in the best manner "nickel," those plated with nickel; "all over silver plated," those in which the cheeks and " half silends of the mouth piece are plated ver plated," those having only the cheek pieces
: ;

plated the

" outside silver plated," those in

which

cheek pieces are plated. Plating with other metals is designated in a similar manner.
outsides of the
BITTING HARNESS.

The two illustrations of bitting harness in this chapter represent the most complicated, though undoubtedly the best for this purpose, which are free to manufacturers in this country. There are several patented devices, but a description or illustration would be of no general value. Fig. I represents the plain wooden jockey, the saddle to which is made of iron padded with felt and covered with collar leather the ends of the reins are of elastic web. The manner of attaching, style of halter, crupper strap, etc., are all well delineated and require no explanation. Fig. 2 represents an improved jockey of English manufacture the arms of this are of gutta percha and whalebone instead of wood the various straps are all provided with elastic ends, which, it is claimed, produces the desired result in a more humane manner than when the old style, as
; ; ;

shown by

Fig.

i, is

used.

BITTING HARNESS.

.87

266 THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

Another
Fig.
I,

style, bearing a close resemblance to has steel springs attached to the back of

the arms at the lower ends, to which the reins are

attached

the

wooden arms

slots for the reins to pass

are provided with through before being

secured to the steel springs.

harness, in

The
etc.,

plain bitting

which the cheeks,

are attached to

a broad surcingle, needs no description.

BITTING HARNESS.

289

CHAPTER

XXIII.

REPAIRING HARNESS.

TO

repair harness well

is

quite as

much

of an
to

art as to

make up new

stock, and,

owing

the gradual spread of the custom of sending the

harness to the shop instead of leaving the matter when repairs are needed, the proper performance of the work is, in a business point of view, an absolute necessity. Repairing is something more than securing a ripped stitch, restoring a buckle, or splicing a strap; these the merest novice in the business can accomplish but to repair properly requires skill, judgment, and experience. This is particularly the case at the present time, when new methods and directions are found in every agricultural journal, and not unfrequently in those devoted to mechanics, and which, from the nature of the articles recommended, as well as from the crudeness of the instructions, are calculated to mislead. In repairing, two results are to be sought one is the complete restoration of strength and form the other, renovation and softening of the leather, so that in appearance and pliability it will be as nearly as possible what it was when first made. To
to stablemen
;

REPAIRING HARNESS.

29I

this, unbuckle and separate all patent and fancy colored from the plain leather wherever it also from pads, can be done without ripping gig saddles, and such other parts as are lined with cloth or are stuffed then clean the straps. These, if gummed, should be scraped with a smooth edged scraper, and then washed with tepid

do

water and crown soap

if

the latter can not be

its

place (strong soap should never be used, as the alkalies penetrate the leather and harden it). Turpentine, benzine,
etc.,

had, use castile soap in

are often

recommended

for

removing the
;

but nothing destroy harness leather than these articles: they penetrate almost instantly, and burn and harden the fibre, and if used to any extent, the injury can not be corrected. Tepid water, soap, a scraper, and a little labor will prove equally efficacious in removing all superfluous substances, without leaving injurious effects. After thoroughly cleaning the leather, make all needed repairs, black up, and, with the exception of polishing, treat the leather the same as though the harness were new then with a stiff brush clean out whatever dirt may be in and
will

surface grease and accumulated dirt

more

effectually

around the stitches, loops, buckles, etc., treating both sides of the strap in the same manner.
This brushing is often omitted, but it is almost as important as the cleaning of the surface of the leather, as the fine dirt is thus removed, and it does not interfere in any way with the pep'=-tra,

292

THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

tion of the oil or grease into the pores of the

leather or around the stitches.

The harness now being cleaned and

it

repaired,

There are ready for oiling or greasing. which is applitwo waj-s of doing this the first,
is
:

cable to leather which has

color,

become hard,

lost its

and needs thorough renovation, is to apply a little vinegar black wherever the leather appears red then dampen each strap with a small quantity of tepid water, applying it with a sponge, and, as soon as the surface of the leather is dry, give it a coat of pure neat's-foot oil (the purer the oil the better) the oil penetrates the
;
;

water having opened the pores, and Some authorities recomit is quickly absorbed. mend castor oil in place of the neat's-foot, but the latter is undoubtedly the best, as it restores to
leather, the

the leather
tor
oil,

some of
is

its

natural properties, and

Casan excellent article, and is only It penetrates inferior to neat's-foot or pure cod. rapidly, softens well, and at the same time retains a firm hold it will also last as long as neat's-foot oil, and is free from gum, but, owing to its heavy body, it fills up the pores and thus prevents the subsequent absorption of tallow. The animal oil, on the other hand, opens the pores, softens the fibre, and fits it to take up a much greater quantity of tallow, which" is, after all, the only real

therefore better assimilates with the fibre.

however,

protection against the action of water.

The

tal-

low should be warmed

being spread
011

sufficiently to allow of its

it

with a brush, but

must not be

KEPAt&iNG HASJfESS.
hot.

^^^

Apply

it

as soon as the oil has dried in,

in

and brush well

pores.

order to

assist it to enter the

Lay all the straps out straight, and, after coating them with tallow, allow them to remain in that condition for several hours then rub them
;

with a woolen cloth until all surplus grease is removed Irom the surface, after which varnish black may be applied if desired but the latter is not absolutely necessary, excepting when the leather is miich worn and the color injured. The second manner of applying grease is to slightly dampen the leather after it has been thoroughly cleaned, and as soon as the surface rhoisture is removed, apply a coat of warm tallow, and allow the straps to remain coated with it until the moisture has died out, afterward cleaning the tallow off as in the first case. This answers very well for harness when the leather has not become hard but looks dry on the surface. In the absence of grease, leather absorbs water very rapidly, and unless the pores be well filled with the former, the latter will soon obtain the mastery and convert the leather from a soft, pliant, tough material to a hard, bony, and brittle
;

one.
itself will resist the action of water longer than neat's-foot oil, but it does not impart the same softness to the fibre as does the latter, while the oil, though it softens the leather, fails to form much of a barrier against the entrance of water. Both articles are therefore necessary in order to secure pliability and dura-

Tallow of

much

.294
bility.

Other greases may be used, but

in

none

are the original qualities of the leather contained to the same extent as in those recommended. the leather presents a rusty appearance, not red, it should be blacked with hatters' black, or a more simple black made of 2 ounces of the extract of logwood and ^ ounce of bichromate of potash pounded fine and dissolved in 4 quarts of boiling rain or river water. This can be bottled and kept on hand. It should be applied with a brush.

When
is

but

Harness when in use becomes soiled either by the action of the atmosphere on the grease the latter being drawn to the surface, where it be-

comes impregnated with dust, and forms a dirty coating or by the impurities in the oilused in currying the leather. In the latter case, in addition to the dirty grease, spots of gum of various sizes form on the surface. These can only be removed by scraping, or by the use of an ammoniated soap, made of oleic acid heated to a temperature of 100, into which ammonia (of 0.96 specific gravity) is stirred until the smell of the latter ceases to disappear by action of the acid. Patent leather can only be restored to its original polish by the use of varnish, but it may be greatly improved by applying castor oil, and, after it has been upon the leather an hour or more, removing the surplus grease with a woolen cloth, and rubbing with a dry silk or woolen rag until the polish is brought out. In every case remove all the mountings possible without

Repairing haKnsS.

295

ripping the straps, and clean them before replacing.

It

reqviires
oil

some labor

to thus clean, repair,

if
if

and

a harness, but these directions,

first class

well

followed, will secure a

leather has not
as

job,

and

the

become bony and harsh from

it

constant exposure,

will be to all

appearances

good as new. For repairing or new work there is no blacking in the market that answers the purpose better than that of Frank Miller & Co. It possesses the necessary elements for softening and giving a fine finish to the leather, and increasing its
durability.

CHAPTER XXIV.
CARE OF HARNESS IN FACTORY AND STABLE.

the treatment received after leaving the hands of the workman yet a large percentage of manufacturers, as well as consumers, are very careless and negligent in protecting their goods from injury by the elements. Consumers, as a rule, are entirely unacquainted with the peculiarities of the stock used, and they can not, therefore, be expected to know how to guard it against various destructive influences, but the harness maker can not plead ignorance. Leather as received from the tanner does not possess the requisite qualifications for harness. These the currier supplies by the addition of oil and grease, together with the labor
;

THE appearance and upon depends

a great extent

durability of harness to

needed
this

in

preparing

it,

without which

it

would

lack the suppleness and durability so necessary in

kind of stock. The preservation of the maadded by the currier, therefore, becomes an absolute necessity in order to prevent premature decay. Moisture is the great destroyer it absorbs the grease, hardens the fibre, and renders the leather weak and brittle; it also causes the metal
terials
;

CARE OF HARNESS
in the

IN

FACTORY AND STABLE. 2gj

mountings to rust, weakening them, and adds another enemy to the leather. Grease only will resist the effects of moisture, and every effort should be made to keep the leather well supplied with this needed protector. Manufacturers often overlook the importance of caring for the harness in stock, and also of instructing their customers how to preserve it when

With some the idea is maintained, that ignorance on the part of the consumer, as regards the care of harness, accrues to the benefit of the manufacturer. This is a serious mistake. The most successful man is he who produces the most durable article, and it should be part of a manufacturer's duty to instruct the buyer how to treat the article purchased. But all manufacturers do not understand this secret of their business, and a portion of this chapter therefore will be devoted to the care of stock in the warerooms. A certain amount of made up stock must be displayed, but there is no necessity for exposing more than one harness of a kind. Three months' exposure in a wareroom will injure a harness as much as three months of constant use, providing the user knows how to take care of it. In all instances leather strapping, if exposed at all, should be in glass cases impervious to dust and air but no showcase can be made tight enough to fully exclude these elements. During a great part of the year the air at night with moisture, and, not unfrequently, is laden during the spring and fall months the atmosin use.
;

298 THE HARNESS MAKERs' ILLUSTRATED irfANUAL.

phere is humid and heavy the moist air permeates every thing, and by its action upon the leather and mountings rapidly absorbs the life of the former and rusts or tarnishes the latter. The white mould which is often observed upon the leather is caused by the grease being drawn
;

to the surface

by moisture.
this

After the surface

is

mould, the absorption of the grease continues in all kinds of weather until the cause is removed. The manufacturer therefore should remove it as quickly as possible by brushing it, and afterwards rubbing with a dry cloth, and finally with a greasy rag or. " shammy ;" then restore the polish with an old silk handkerchief. If the mountings are tarnished, clean them with a " shammy " if this can not be done, remove them Gilt mountings clean with a little rotten stone. should not be exposed. Sample sets are convebut when these can not be had, the gilt nient should be protected by wrapping it in tissue
covered with
;

paper. In hanging up the various parts of the harness, use forms, instead of pegs or hooks, except for
traces or reins,

which should always be hung out

Harness made up for stock should not straight. be " gummed " and hung in cases, but, after being
finished

by the workman,

all

the plain leather

" should be covered with a thin coat of " daub made of one part of neat's-foot oil and two parts of tallow the latter being thoroughly melted,

after

oil is poured in and the whole this will feed the thoroughly stirred until cold

which the

Care of harness

iisf

factory and STABtE.

299

The patent and fancy wrapped on soft paper, and every piece, whether of patent or plain leather, laid out straight and smooth in shallow drawers
leather and prevent injury.
leather should be

and covered with thick paper. ping of all kinds should be kept

in

Russet strapdark cases or

drawers, as the sunlight is sure to affect the color, the most exposed parts showing the greatest change. Harness makers who have made the care of harness a study have no difficulty in filling orders at a short notice. Their course is to make up traces, reins, turnbacks, docks, back bands, and other straight strapping, and lay them away in grease as before directed. When a harness is ordered, all that is required is to make the other parts, finish up the necessary straight straps, attach the mountings, and put them together. In this way they are enabled to keep their workmen employed at all times, and obviate the necessity of hiring extra hands in the busy If the manufacturer delivers the harness season. to his customer in good order, he does all he is legally bound to do but his moral obligation extends much farther he should instruct the buyer how to preserve it. The following hints may
;

serve to assist him in this direction The Iiarness room should always be as far from the horses as the size of the building will allow, as the gases arising from the stable are very inju:

rious to the leather and mountings it should be provided with forms for the bridles, pads, sad;

300

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

dies, breechings, etc.,

and hooks

for reins,

hames,

and

traces.

If

a separate

room can not be had

taken from

for this purpose, closets should be provided.

Harness are often quite wet when When this is caused by rain, up in some place where they can dry, putting them in the storeroom rub
the horse.
tle

hang them and before them well

with a " shammy," or wash-leather, then apply a litcrown soap and rub with the hands until the
is

clean off the under side of the by sweat, dry as quickly as possible after taking them from the horse, as by the saline nature of the perspirapolish

restored

straps as carefully as the outside. If wet

tion the grease

;

is rapidly absorbed and the leather hardened if the pads are wet, dry them thoroughly before putting them in the storeroom. For oiling, during the first year, at least, crown

soap, applied as directed above,

quisite for

is all

that

is re-

coach or carriage harness, but for team and other heavy harness a stronger grease is required. Cleaning and oiling should be done as often as once a month on harness which is in daily use. If the leather is soft, wash it with water applied with a " shammy," then wring the latter nearly dry, and rub the leather thoroughly, When after which apply a good harness oil. each strap has been treated in this way, commence with the one first washed, and remove all surplus grease with a rag, then rub with an old
piece of silk until the polish is restored.. If the leather is hard and dry, it will be necessary to

wash the straps well and wet them enough to

CARE OF HARNESS IN FACTORY AND STABLE. 30I

open the pores lay the straps out straight, and, surface dry apply a coat of neat's-foot oil. When this has penetrated the leather, apply warm tallow with a brush, and allow the straps to remain coated with the tallow until the moisture
;

when

has dried out of the leather, then with a rag remove all the surplus tallow, and clean the stitching with a stiff brush then apply a coat of har;

ness black.

Cleaning mountings requires care, as they do not need to be scoured. Gold should never be rubbed with any thing harsher than the nap side of canton flannel electro silver plate should also
;

be cleaned carefully, as the plate is soft and the thin coating can be easily removed. Close plate silver will bear more scouring, but it is seldom necessary to do more than to rub it with a " shammy " darkened with tripoli and lampblack. If they are very much tarnished, they should be removed from the harness and washed in water and rubbed with tripoli. Brass is the most difficult metal to keep clean, but when rubbed each day the labor is materiall}' decreased. In the chapter of recipes there are several directions for cleaning and polishing brass, any of which can be used to good advantage.

CHAPTER XXV.
LEATHER BLACKING
STAINS POLISHES.

VARNISHES

AND

VINEGAR BLACK.
leather giving color FOR no blacking thatthe grain ofcompare there with
to
is

will at all

known vinegar black. This may be made in various ways. The simplest, and, without doubt,
the well the best,
is

to procure shavings

from an iron turner

;

and cover them heat up and set aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a cool place for two weeks pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for a few days, and draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a long time, and, while producmg a deep black on leather, will not stain the hands. Another method is to cover iron scraps with sour beer, and allow them to stand for a month or more then strain off the beer and bottle as
with pure cider vinegar
;

before.

third
;

iron in vinegar

method is to boil sulphate of mix some brewers' yeast with

beer and allow it to stand for twenty-four hours, then skim off the yeast and add the vinegar.

LOGWOOD BLACK.
Boil
I

pound
and
i

nut

galls,

ot ground logwood, ^ pound of ounce of verdigris in i gallon of

LEATHER BLACKING.
water for two hours, then remove from the
allow
it

303
fire

and

to stand until
it

it

is

cold

strain off the

liquor,
If to

and
I

will be

ready for

use.

pint of this mixture be

added ^ pound

of white wax, ^ pound of brown sugar, and -J pound of bone black rubbed smooth in turpen-

and the whole heated until thoroughly amalgamated, an excellent wax for finishing edges will be produced. Another logwood black is made by boiling a quantity of logwood bark in double its bulk of rain water for two or three hours, then straining off and adding J of a pound of potash to 2 gallons of the liquor. This makes a good grain as well as edge black.
tine,

hatters' black.

This black

is

unequaled for
i

finishing.

It

is

made by

dissolving

pound of extract of

log-

wood, ^ ounce of bichromate of potash, and i ounce of copperas in i gallon of water. Another formula, differing from the first in the
quantities,
is

to dissolve

pound of extract of

logwood, 2 ounces of copperas, and i^ ounces of bichromate of potash in 1^ gallons of water.

ball black.

Melt together 8 ounces of beef

suet, 2

ounces

of neat's-foot oil, 2 ounces of white wax, and 2 ounces of pulverized gum arable add i gill of
;

turpentine, and a sufficient quantity of bone black

to give the

whole a good color

stir until thor-

304 THE HARNESS MAKERS ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

oughly mixed, remove from the

stir until

fire,

cold, then roll into balls.

continue to To apply,

the ball, rub it on the leather, and polish with a woolen cloth. English ball blacking for harness is composed of I ounce of lard, i ounce of beeswax, 8 ounces of ivory black, 8 ounces of sugar, 4 ounces of linseed oil, and 2 or 3 ounces of water. Another kind is made of 2 ounces of hog's lard, 8 ounces of best neat'sfoot oil, 2 ounces of beeswax, 10 ounces of ivory black, and 8 ounces of water. Heat the whole to a boil, remove from the fire, stir until sufficiently cool, and form into balls about two inches in diameter. A third description is made of 2 ounces each of ivory black, copperas, and neat's-foot oil, 4 ounces of brown sugar, 4 ounces of soft water, and 1 ounce of gum tragacanth boil until the water has evaporated, stir until cold, then roll into balls or mould into cakes. A fourth is made of ^ pound of beeswax, 4 ounces of ivory black, 2 ounces of Prussian blue, 2 ounces of spirits of turpentine, and i ounce of copal varnish melt the wax, stir in the other in; ;

warm

gredients, and,

when

cool, roll into balls.

Still another famous harness and saddlery blacking is made of J of an ounce of isinglass, i of an ounce of indigo, 4 ounces of logwood, 2

ounces of .softsoap, 4 ounces of glue, and i pint of vinegar the whole is warmed, mixed, strained, allowed to cool, and is then ready for use.
;

LEATHER BLACKING.
LIQUID BLACK.

305

Mix

a quantity of bone black with equal parts

of neat's-foot oil and brown sugar, in proportions thin with vinegar and to produce a thick paste
;

sulphuric acid in proportions of three parts of the former to one of the latter. A second liquid black is made by mixing 3 ounces of ivory black with i tablespoonful of

lemon acid, 2 ounces of brown sugar, and a small quantity of vinegar, afterward adding i ounce each of sulphuric and muriatic acid mix the whole together, and add a sufficient quantity of
;

vinegar to make

pint in

all.

liebig's

black.

Mix bone black in half its weight of molasses and one eighth its weight of olive oil, to which add half its weight of hydrochloric acid and one fourth its weight of strong sulphuric acid, with a sufficient quantity of water to produce a thiri
paste.

PATENT HARNESS BLACK.

fire, 2 ounces of ounces of turpentine when the wax is, dissolved add i ounce of ivory black and I dram of indigo, thoroughly pulverized and mixed stir the mixture until cold. Apply with a cloth, and polish with a shoe brush.

Heat together, over a slow

white

wax and

WATERPROOF PASTE BLACKING.

Melt together 4 ounces of black resin and 6

306 THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

ounces of beeswax over a slow fire when thoroughly dissolved, add i ounce of lampblack and
;

i pound of finely powdered Prussian blue stir the mixture well, and add sufficient turpentine to make a thin paste. Apply with a cloth, and pol;

ish with a brush.

CROWN SOAP BLACK.

Dissolve, over a slow
I

fire,

pound of beeswax,

soap, 3 ounces of indigo, 4 ounces of ivory black, and ^ pint of oil of turpentine
;

pound of crown

as soon as dissolved

remove from the

fire,

and

stir until cold.

FINISHING BLACK.

Mix together | ounce each of gelatin and indigo, 8 ounces of extract of logwood, 2 ounces of
crown soap, 8 ounces of softened glue, and i quart of vinegar heat the whole over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Apply with a soft brush, and polish with a woolen cloth.
;

CORDOVA WAX.

Mix together
pint of beer,
black,
i

i| pints of red acid (chromic),

gill

of thick glue, 2 ounces of ivory

;

and i dram of indigo and apply with a sponge.

boil for half

an hour,

GERMAN ULACKING.
Soften 2 pounds of good glue, and melt it in an ordinary glue kettle then dissolve 2 pounds of castile soap in warm water and pour it into the
;

LEATHER BLACKING.
;

307

glue stir until well mixed, and add i pound of yellow wax cut into small pieces stir well until the wax is melted, then add ^ pint of neat's-foot
;

oil

color.
use.

and enough lampblack to give the desired When thoroughly mixed, it is ready for
ANILIN BLACK.

Mix I dram of fine anilin black with 60 drops of concentrated hydrochloric acid and i^ ounces of alcohol. This produces a deep blue liquid,
which,
black.

when

diluted with
will

dissolved

in alcohol,

i^ ounces of shellac produce a beautiful

BLACKING FOR RESTORING HARNESS.

ounce of indigo, i pound of extract of I ounce of softened glue, and 8 ounces of crown soap (common softsoap can be used if the other kind can not be had) in 2 quarts of vinegar place the mass over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Apply with a soft brush, and use a harder one for polishing.
I

Mix

logwood,

BLACKING FOR PATENT OR ENAMELED LEATHER.

Mix together ^ pound each

purified

of ivory black,
indigo,
3

lampblack,

and

pulverized

ounces of dissolved gum arable, 4 ounces of brown sugar, and ^ ounce of glue dissolved in i pint of water heat the whole to a boil over a slow fire, then remove and stir until cool, and roll into balls.
;

3o8

THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

BLACKING FOR RESTORING LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.

Melt
black

parts of white wax, then

oil,

add
i

part

gum

copal, dissolved in linseed

;

and

part of ivory

move
it

it

allow the mass to boil for five minutes, refrom the fire and stir until cool, then roll

up

into balls.

BLACKING FOR THE FLESH

SIDE.

i pound of prime lampblack and pounds of pure neat's-foot oil; melt 6 pounds of good tallow, and add it while hot to the lampblack and oil. Mix it well, and when cold it will

Mix together

12

be

fit

for use.

ANOTHER.

To
allow

1^
it

pure neat's-foot
for use.

pounds of lampblack add i gallon of oil and i quart of vinegar black to stand 24 houis, and it will be ready
;

STAINS.

The use
etc.,

of russet and

necessitates the

brown leather for reins, employment of stains of va-

rious shades in the workshop, in order that the reins or other straps may be of a uniform color

being worked. In most cases rein leather is stained by the currier, but when worked, the freshly cut edges, etc., need to be stained to corafter

generally

respond with the grain. The stains used are made of Spanish saffron and anotta.

STAINS.

309
in

or of saffron alone,

made up

various ways, the

most

common and
is

reliable being the following

Boil a giv^en
the color
in

amount of
;

saffron in

water until

extracted

cut a quantity of anotta

urine and mix the two together, the proportions of each determining the shade the more
;

anotta used' the darker

boil

is

the color.

Another manner of preparing this stain is to saffron and J ounce of i- ounce of Spanish anotta in water until the dye is extracted, to which must be added some alcohol to set the
color.

To make
in

a stain of saffron alone, boil a quantity

is

water until the dye

extracted

strain

off,

and,

when cold, add alcohol in order to set the color. The shade may be changed by adding oxalic acid
varying quantities according to the color reThe proportions can not be given with any degree of accuracy, as the color is a matter of taste, and can be regulated by using greater or less proportions of each article.
in

quired.

Another
in

saffron stain

is

made by

boiling saffron
is

a small quantity of water until the color

ex-

and reducing with urine. In using any of these stains, apply them with a cloth, and, when nearly dry, rub with a woolen rag slightly waxed. A yellow stain is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water the shade may be darkened by the addition of a small quantity of powdered Brazilwood boiled with the berries. Another yello.wish red stain is made of Braziltracted,
;

3IO-THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

berries in proportion to suit, water until the coloring matter is extracted. This can be applied to sides that have not been stained, when intended for flat reins,

wood and yellow

boiling

them

in

halters, etc., in the following

manner

Lay the

leather

upon a

table,

and rub the

it

flesh

over and moisten the grain side with water, and rub with a copper stretching iron until the leather is nearly dry then apply the colormg matter to the grain, and rub with a copper slicker. When the leather is perfectly dry, rub the grain with a glass An edge stain is made by adding a small slicker. quantity of alum to the above mentioned ingreside with a

warm

stretching iron; turn

dients.

A,

brown

stain is

made by

boiling equal parts

of pine and alder barks in six times their bulk of

water until all the coloring matter is extracted, and when cold adding a small quantity of alcohol. Saffron boiled for twelve or fifteen hours gives a good brown stain, to which alcohol must be added to make it set. Picric acid and water, in proportions of i to lo, heated to a blood heat, makes a good yellow stain. Wold boiled in water also makes a yellow stain. An orange yellow is produced by boiling fustic This stain may be conberries in alum water. verted into a rich brown by washing the leather to which it has been applied, before the stain is fairly dry, with an alkali. A red stain is produced by boiling Brazilwood in lye. If mixed.with wold, it produces a brown-

VARNISHES.
ish yellow, well

311

adapted for use on halters and

bridles.

An

cutting

edge stain for russet leather is made by 4 ounces of anotta in 2 quarts of

it to stand for twenty-four hours, quarts of water and boiling until 3 reduced to one half the original quantity. All stains appear to better advantage and are

urine, allowing

then adding

rendered more durable by being covered with a little shellac varnish, which should be applied after the reins are all dry, and then finished up as previously directed. The shellac should be applied with a sponge. A bright orange stain is made by mixing yellow anilin with alum water. One ounce of oxalic acid, i ounce of spirits of salts, I scruple of bruised cochineal, and i pint of boiling water makes a good brown stain. Another red stain is made by dissolving i ounce of cochineal in ^ pint of hot water, and adding i gill of spirits of hartshorn. A bright crimson stain is alum or tin salts and a decoction of cochineal.

VARNISHES.
SHELLAC VARNISH.

Dissolve 6 parts ot shellac in alcohol using no more of the latter than is absolutely necessary to dissolve the gum, and mix it with 3 p.irts of Venetian turpentine, heating the whole

until the

mixture

is

complete

when

cool,

add

^ part of fine bone black and ^ part of oil Mix of lavender (all the parts by weight). the mass in a druggist's mortar, and rub smooth then add turpentine enough to reduce it to the
;

proper consistency.
ELASTIC VARNISH.

Dissolve ^ pound of gum caoutchouc in ether, and when thoroughly cut, add |- pound each of boil over a linseed oil and spirits of turpentine slow fire until the mixture becomes clear, strain To harden it, and when cold it is ready for use. it and make it dry quicker, use one half the quantity of gum caoutchouc, and substitute the best
;

gum

copal for the remainder.

GERMAN LEATHER VARNISH.

Pulverize a quantity of the best copal gum, and add enough turpentine to moisten it place it in a glazed vessel, and allow it to stand over a moder;

ate fire until the

gum

which

will require

is thoroughly dissolved, about ten hours. Next take

double the quantity of linseed oil that there is of the gum and turpentine combined, and heat when nearly to a boil, pour in the dissolved it gum, and allow it to remain over the fire until it has reached as high a degree of temperature as it will bear with safety, stirring it all the while then remove from the fire, and when it has cooled a little, thin with spirits of turpentine until the proper consistency is reached;
;

VARNISHES.
strain
in the

313
it,

through a

fine cloth, bottle

and

set

it

sun to ripen. This is an excellent varnish for horse collars. If used upon those that have lost their color, a little bone black should be added.

LACK VARNISH BALLS.

Melt together 2 ounces of white wax and 6 ounces of beef tallow add ^ pint of turpentine, 8 ounces of ivory black, 2 ounces of Prussian blue ground in linseed oil, and allow the mass to then remove it from boil for about five minutes the fire and add 4 ounces of shellac varnish, stir the mass until cool, and roll into balls.
;

BLACK VARNISH.
Pulverize and mix together i^ parts of mastic, parts of shellac, 2^ parts of dragon's blood, and 2 parts of the best bone black heat i^ parts
2|;

of turpentine and 10 parts of alcohol, pour

them

over the gums, place the whole over a moderate fire, and boil until the latter are thoroughly dissolved.

WATERPROOF VARNISH.
Pulverize
bottle with
i

pound of
;

shellac,

and put

it

into a

a sufficient

quantity of alcohol to

cover the
it

in a

gum cork the bottle tightly, and keep warm place until the gum is dissolved.
add
i

To

a quart of the liquid

ounce of ivory
dissolved in
If

black and ^ ounce of

alcohol.

gum camphor

thick to

Apply with a varnish brush. work well, thin with alcohol.

too

314

THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

BLACK VARNISH FOR JAPANNED WORK.

Dissolve 2 pounds of asphaltum in i pint of heat in an iron pot until thoroughly fused, then remove from the fire, and, when cooled off a little, add 2 quarts of spirits of turpentine, and stir until cold. Apply with a brush. This makes an excellent japan for retouching
boiled linseed oil
;

japanned mountings, seats, etc., that have been injured by the japan scaling off.

CHEAP SHELLAC VARNISH.

Dissolve asphaltum
in

turpentine, using no
;

more of the latter than is absolutely necessary add a small quantity of bone black and enough
shellac varnish
to reduce
it

so that
it

it

can be

applied w^ith a brush.

Spread

very

thinly.

ELASTIC VARNISH.

Equal parts of gum caoutchouc and copal, the former dissolved in ether, heated in a vessel until thoroughly dissolved, with enough linseed oil added while hot to reduce it to the proper consistency, makes an elastic varnish well suited for
finishing collars.

POLISHES.

FRENCH

POLISH.

Beat 5 pounds of stearin out into thin sheets with a wooden mallet, and mix with 7 pounds of
oil

of turpentine, after which subject the mnss to

POLISHES.

315
hot,

a water bath, and heat up

crystallization.

when

add

|-

ounce

of ivory or bone black, stirring well to prevent

To

cool

it off,

it

should be emp-

tied into another vessel

and

stirred until cold.

warm it until it is reduced to a liquid and apply in small quantities with a cloth afterward rub it well with a piece of silk or linen To
use,
state,
;

cloth to bring

up the

polish.

POLISH FOR PATENT LEATHER.

Mix together the whites of two eggs, i teaspoonful of spirits of wine, i ounce of sugafj and as much finely pulverized ivory black as may be required to produce the necessary shade of black.
Apply with
silk.

a sponge, and polish with a piece of

WAX
Melt together
of

POLISH.

i pound of white wax, i pound crown soap, 5 ounces of ivory black, i ounce of indigo, and ^ pint of nut oil dissolve over a
;

slow fire, moulds.

stir

until

cool,

and turn into small

LIQUID POLISH.

Melt 2 pounds of wax, and add J pound of washed and well dried litharge by screening it through a fine sieve then add 6 ounces of ivory black, and stir until cool, but not cold add enough turpentine to reduce it to a thin paste, after which add a little birch or other essential
; ;

oil

to prevent

it

from souring.

3l6 THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

GERMAN LEATHER
Soften
parts of

POLISH.

I part of white glue in water, add 3 crown soap, and heat the whole over a

slow fire until the glue is thoroughly dissolved moisten 3 parts of bone black with vinegar, and mix it with i part of wheat starch beat smooth in cold water mix the whole, and allow it to stand over a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it all the time, then turn it into another kettle and
; ;

To use, dissolve a small until it is cold. quantity in sour beer or vinegar, and apply with a brush, spreading it as thinly as possible.
stir

CHAPTER XXVI.
MISCELLANEOUS
RECIPES FOR THE WORKSHOP AND HARNESS ROOM.

TO CLEAN MOULDY LEATHERS.

REMOVE the surface mould with a dry cloth,

and with another cloth apply pyroligneous Leather that has been badly moulded can be restored in this way.
acid.

TO PROTECT HARNESS FROM RATS.

Apply a plentiful coat of castor oil. If the harness is to be used, add tallow in the proportions of about one third of the latter to two
thirds
oil.

WATERPROOF

OIL.

Take of lard oil loo parts, paraffin 50 parts, beeswax 5 parts heat the oil over a slow fire, and when hot add the paraffin and wax allow the whole to remain over the fire until the latter articles are melted, and add a few drops of oil of
;

sassafras or other essential oil to preserve

it.

3lS THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLCSTRATES MANOAt.

CROWN

SOAP.

This soap, so much used by stablemen for cleaning harness, is made of whale or cod oil, lye of
potassa, and a small quantity of tallow. The oil gives to the soap a dark brown color, the tallow forming white granulations. This is simply the Scotch softsoap it can be produced at a price
;

far

below that asked

for the

imoorted

article.

BELGIUM BURNISHING POWDER.

of fine chalk, 3 ounces of pipe clay, 2 ounces of dry white lead, -J of an

Mix together i pound

ounce of carbonate of magnesia, and f of an ounce of rouge.

POWDER FOR CLEANING

SILVER.

ounce of fine chalk, 2 ounces of ounce of rotten stone, i ounce of red lead, and i ounce of alum, and pulverize thoroughly in a mortar. Wet the mixture and rub it on the silver, and, when dry, rub off with a dry flannel, or clean with a small brush.
i

Mix together

cream of

tartar,

POWDER FOR CLEANING BRASS MOUNTINGS.

Make

a paste of equal parts of sulphur and

it

chalk, with sufficient vinegar to reduce

to the

proper consistency. Apply it to the metal while moist, allow it to dry on, and rub with chamois skin. For ornaments or engraved work, clean with a brush.

illSCfiLLANEOUS RECIPES'.

^Jtp

Another process, and one that gives

brass a very brilliant color,
is

to

the
of
i

to

make

wash

alum boiled in strong lye, in the proportion ot ounce of alum to pint of the latter. Wash the brass with this mixture, and afterward rub with shammy and tripoli.
i

makes an wash for cleaning tarnished silver plate. Apply it with a rag, dry with a piece of shammy, and afterward rub with a piece of shammy and a very small quantity of jewelers'
excellent

A weak

solution of ammonia in water

rouge.

PREPARED CHALK.
Pulverize chalk thoroughly, and mix with diswater in the proportion of 2 pounds to the gallon stir well, and then allow it to stand about two minutes, during which time the gritty mattilled
;

ter will

have settled to the bottom

then pour

the chalky water into another vessel, being careful not to disturb the sediment, and allow the
fine

chalk to settle to the bottom

pour

off the

water, and place the chalk in a warm oven to dry. This is an excellent powder for restoring silver, and it is also useful as a base for other polishing

powders. Spanish whiting treated in the same manner, with a small quantity of jewelers' rouge added, makes a powder that is a little sharper than the prepared chalk, and which is well adapted to
cleaning polished steel articles. third powder, and one that

is still

sharper

320 THE HARNESS MAKERS' ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

than either of the above, is made of rotten stone treated in the same manner as the chalk. The addition of bone black to any of these powders will prevent their discoloring the leather.
TO PREVENT STEEL BITS FROM RUSTING.
Polished
steel
in
bits,

chains,

etc.,

whether

in

showcases, may be preserved from over with quicklime. rust by dusting them Those in use should be placed in a box nearly filled with thoroughly pulverized slaked lime immediately after being removed from the horse. The lime absorbs the moisture, and thus prevents rust. Before using, rub well with a woolen cloth. Polished steel, when covered with red rust, may be cleaned as follows Cover the article with oil, and rub it with a woolen cloth to remove the lighter portion of the rust, after which apply another coat of oil, and allow it to remain undisturbed for two or three hours, then clean off with whiting and a woolen cloth. If the rust has been upon the steel sufficiently long to have eaten into the metal, the surface can be restored only by the use of the emery belt or wheel.

packages or

TO CLEAN RUBBER COVERED MOUNTINGS.

Rub

the covei"ed as well as the metallic parts

little tripoli,

with a shammy and a a clean woolen cloth.

and

finish

with

TO CLEAN RUSSET LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.

Remove

all

stains

and

dirt

by rubbing the

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.

32 I

leather with a cloth and a little oxalic acid, and restore the color and finish by the use of salts of
leather until a

lemon, applied with a woolen cloth. good polish is produced.

VARNISH FOR COLLARS.

Rub

the

Digest shellac 12 parts, white turpentine 5 gum sandarac 2 parts, lampblack i part, spirits of turpentine and alcohol each 40 parts..
parts,

TO CLEAN CELLULOID COVERED MOUNTINGS.

Rub
a
rag.

little tripoli,

the covered parts with a woolen cloth and and polish with a clean woolen

POLISHING LIQUID FOR OROIDE OR BRASS.

2 ounces of sulphuric acid in an earthen and add i quart of cold soft water after the heat that is generated has passed off, add ounce each of tripoli and jewelers' rouge. When well mixed, put in a bottle for use.

Place

vessel,

TO CLEAN GILT MOUNTINGS.

Gilt mountings unless carefully cleaned soon
lose their lustre.
if

They should not be rubbed

wipe them off with a piece what is better, remove them from the harness and wash in a solution of ^ ounce pound of water, and dry them with of borax in a soft linen rag. Their lustre may be improved
slightly tarnished,

of canton flannel, or,

322 THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTKATED MANUAL.

by heating them a

little

and rubbing with a

piece of canton flannel or a soft polishing brush.

TO CLEAN RIDING SADDLES.

If

much

soiled,

wash the leather with a weak

solution of oxalic acid and water, and,

when

dry,

with the watery portion of beef blood. The latter can be preserved by adding a little carbolic acid, and keeping it in a bottle tightly corked.
TO CLEAN STEEL
BITS.

Steel bits that are tarnished, but not rusty, can

be cleaned with rotten stone,

common

hard soap,

and a woolen

cloth.

TO FINISH THE EDGES OF RUSSET REINS.

first

Use salts of tartar and water. If discolored, remove the stain with a weak solution of ox-

alic acid.

TO CLEAN BROWN RIDING SADDLES.

Saddles

may

be cleaned to look as well as new

;

by the use of tepid water and crown soap if the latter can not be had, use pure castile soap.
TO STAIN REIN LEATHER.

permanent brown can be imparted to by treating the hides, after they are tanned, to a bath in a liquor made from equal The hides are parts of pine and alder bark.
rich
rein leather

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.

323

spread in a vat, with liquor enough to cover them, where they are allowed to remain one week they are then removed, and fresh liquor is applied by repeating this treatment three or four times, a very rich brown can be produced, Orange brown is produced by scraping the flesh side after the hides have been removed from the
;

vats for the last time, and sprinllling them on the scraped side with pulverized alum,, As soon as each one is sprinkled with the alum, it is laid in another vat, one upon the other, and allowed to remain twenty-four hours they are then moistened with the alum liquor in the bottom of the vat, and laid upon the beam and well worked, after which they are rubbed with salt and alum, and rolled up and allowed to remain undisturbed for r.wenty-four hours this salting is repeated three times, after which the hides are stretched lengthwise and dried they are then boarded and
;
; ;

worked soft, and treated to a coat of hog's lard and train oil on the flesh side in about two days they are again boarded, and worked off with a
;

glass slicker.

This leather has a

fine grain,

and

retains its softness for a long time.

SMEARY GREASE FOR RUSSET LEATHER.

Mix together

part of palm

oil

and

parts of

common

soap, and heat

up to

100; then

add 4

parts of oleic acid and if parts of tanning solution containing at least -^ part of tannic acid (all parts by weight), and stir until cold.

This

is

324 THE HARNESS MAKERS* ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.

recommended
leather,

as

valuable grease for russet

and as a preventive of gumming.

TO SEPARATE SIDES OF PATENT LEATHER.

Patent and enameled leather

sides are placed together in

will, if

warm

the glazed weather, besimplest

come stuck

together, and, unless carefully sep-

arated, the leather will be spoiled.

The

and best way to separate sides

in
;

is

to place

them

a drying or other hot room when hot, they can be taken apart without injury to the glazed

drying room is not on a hot day, and they will soon become heated sufficiently to allow their being separated without injury. Any attempt to separate without heating to a high degree will prove a failure.
or enameled surface.
If a

accessible, lay the sides on a tin roof

TO CURRY RUSSET LEATHER.

is placed upon a table, rubbed over the flesh side it is then turned over, and the grain side is moistened with water and rubbed with a copper slicker until it is nearly dry, after which coloring matter, made of Brazilwood and yellow berries, is applied to the grain, and it is once more rubbed

The

hide to be curried
is

and a warm iron

then spi'ead out to dry, given by rubbing the grain with a glass slicker. This produces a very fine grade of leather for riding bridles, russet reins,

with the slicker

it

is

and the

final finish is

etc.

MlSCELLANEbUS RECIPES.
TO COLOR EDGES OK SADDLE FLAPS.

^2$

Use a strong solution of soda, apply

freshly cut edges, and,

it

to the

when

nearly dry, rub with

is

a woolen rag until a goo'd polish

produced.

HARNESS

OIL.

An
made
Melt

excellent oil for team and farm harness

is
:

of beef tallow and neat's-foot

oil,

as follows

3 pounds of pure tallow, but do not heat it up to a boil then pour in gradually i pound of neat's-foot oil, and stir until the mass is cold if properly stirred, the two articles will become thoroughly amalgamated, and the grease will be smooth and soft if not well stirred, the tallow will granulate and show fine white specks when cold. The addition of a little bone black will im;
;

prove

this oil for

general use.

INDEX.
Bel^mm Burnishing Powder
Bitting Harness Bits

PAGB
318 288
281 271 37

Buckles

Buying Leather

................'.".,'...

c
Care of Harness Celluloid Mountings, to Clean Cleaning Brass Coach and Wagon Bridles Coloring Edges Crown Soap Currying Russet Leather Cutting Harness Cuttings for Harness Adjustable Tree
Bitting Breast Collar, Single
;
'

296 321 318

181

_,
".

Cart

Double Road
English Four-in-hanu Express
Express, Heavy Ha me Collar

Heavy Coupe Long Tug Coach Long Tug Farm Long Tug Team Mule
Pennsylvania Road. Single
Short Short Stage

325 317 324 45 64-104 94 100 68 102 74 80 84 86 70 72

78

90
88 103 96 66 76 104 98 8a
6^ 9a

Wagon

Tug Coach Tug Butt Chain

Tandem
Track

Wagon

a
Mountings, to Clean Grease for Russet Leather
Gilt
j2i

323

H
Halters
205
.

Harness Leather. Harness Loops Harness Mountings Harness Oil Horse Boots

,
,

21 161

'.

249 325 224

L
Leather, Blacking and Stains Black, Aniline
Ball

Crown Soap
Finishing Flesh

German
Hatters'

Leather Mountings
Liebig's

303 307 303 306 306 308 306 303 308 405

INDEX.
PAGE
Liquid

Logwood
Patent Patent Leather
Re'^toring

305 32 303
2,7

Vinegar Waterproof
Stains,

Rrown
Crimson Orange Yellow

307 3^ 3^5 3^
311 307

Red
Yellow Yellow-Red
Varnishes, Black

310 309 39
313 3^3 321 312 312 3^^ 313 31S

Black Ball
Collar Elastic

German Leather
Shellac

Waterproof Polishes, French

German
Liquid Patent Leather
. .

316
315 315 315

Wax

M
Making, Breast Collar Harness Gig Saddles Ornamental Truck Harness
Pads, Coach
Soft

112 139 136 149

153

Plain Plain

Hard

Team Harness Truck Harness Measuring for Harness

Misrellaneous Recipes Mouldy Leather, to Clean
. .

156 159 128 122 58 317 317

P
Patent Leather Patent Leather, to Separate Prepared Chalk Preparing Leather for the Fitter Prevent Steel from Rusting Polishing Liquid
Polishing Powders 40 324 319
53

320
321
j

Powder

for

Cleaning Silver

318 318

B
Rein Leather Repairing Harness Riding Bridles Riding Saddles, to Clean Round Reins Rubber Covered Mountings, to Clean Russet Leather Russet Leather Mountings, to Clean
-. '.

322 240 197 322

133

320
33

320

S
Stitching Harness
168

T
Trimmings
105-111