Taken from the GTR but applicable to rFactor.

Brake pressure
Adjust overall force applied on the brakes. At 100%, full force will be applied
to the brakes. When the best percentage of brake pressure is applied for a car
for a specific circuit, the brakes are less likely to lock up.
Also some game controllers might not do well modulating brake lockup at the
100% setting, so you might need to reduce this to help compensate.

Brake Bias
Adjusts the balance of braking pressure between the front and the rear brakes.
The right balance will keep one end of the car from locking up significantly
before the other. However, you should usually aim for the fronts locking slightly
before the rears. Changing this bias will also affect corner turn-in balance.

Brake Duct
Increase or decrease the duct to adjust the brake temperature. Brakes that are
either too cool or too warm are less efficient, not stopping/slowing the car as
quickly.

Steering Lock
Adjust the steering sensitivity a few degrees. Greater lock yields tighter
steering response.

Differential
Adjust the Differential Power and Coast to tweak the distribution of torque to
the rear wheels for traction and speed.

Power
Amount, or percentage that is used to lock the inside and outside tyres together
when accelerating, as when exiting a corner.

Coast
Amount, or percentage that is used to lock the inside and outside tyres together
when you are off of the throttle, as when entering a corner.

Pre-load
Amount of lock built in before any acceleration / deceleration effects take place
like in a neutral throttle condition.

Radiator Opening
Adjust the air flow to radiator, which helps cool the engine. The larger the
opening, the cooler the engine will run, making it safer to run at a higher RPM.
Though a larger radiator opening creates more drag which will reduce top speed.

Water
Temperature of the car's water cooling system. Try to keep this temp under
100C.
Use a smaller or larger radiator opening to solve problems here. Air temperature
extremes can affect this.

Oil
Temperature of the car's oil. Will change during practice and qualifying
sessions. Try to keep this under 100C. Tied to the water temp and it's radiator
opening.
Rev Limit
The higher the RPM limit, the higher the top speed you can carry.
There is also a reduction in engine reliability as the you up the RPM limit. If you
set the limiter at maximum and use that limit regularly while driving, your
chances
of completing a full length race are slim.

Gearing
1st - 7th(Depending on the car type) and Reverse Engine Gear Ratios.
Adjust the ratio of each engine gear. Taller gear ratio (smaller number) yields
slower acceleration but higher achievable top speed in that gear. Shorter gear
ratio (larger number) yields quicker acceleration but lower achievable top speed
in that gear.

Symmetrical Setup (off/on)

Tyre Pressure
Adjust the amount of air pressure in the tyres. Each tyre has an
optimum amount of pressure at which it yields the most grip. Decreasing or
increasing the pressure from this point lessens the grip. Ideally the optimum
pressure is when the centre tyre temp is the average of the inner + outer tyre
temps once the tyre gets up to operating temperature (about 85-95C).
Additionally, the higher the pressure, the stiffer the car will be as the tyre
is really like a spring. This affects car control and handling as well as tyre
wear.

Fast Bump
Controls the rapid UPWARD movement of this suspension corner following bumps
and curbs. Called "Fast" because the damper is moving *up* (compressing) in a
rapid motion, usually above 100mm/sec (use telemetry). So this adjustment
controls how a tyre conforms to the road as it's negotiating the leading
edge-to-peak of a bump or road undulation. If you find the car pushing to the
outside of the trackin a "skating" fashion over bumps, then soften (lower)
this setting. If find the car floating and changing direction erratically,
then stiffen (higher) this setting. When in doubt, go softer

Slow Bump
Controls the mild UPWARD movement of this suspension corner caused by driver
input (steering, braking, throttle). Called slow because the damper is moving
up (compressing) in a slow motion, usually below 70mm/sec damper speed (use
telemetry). Used to affect chassis balance while we are transitioning into,
and out, of the corners. Decreasing this number will speed up how quickly this
corner accepts weight transfer while we are transitioning. Increasing will slow
it down.

Fast Rebound
Controls the rapid DOWNWARD movement of this suspension corner following
bumps and curbs. Called "Fast" because this damper is moving down (extending)
in a rapid motion, usually above 100mm/sec (use telemetry). So this adjustment
controls how a tyre conforms to the road as it's negotiating the peak-to-trailing
edge of a bump or road undulation. If you've changed the bump setting, then it's
usually a good idea to change this setting in a similar manner.
Slow Rebound
Controls the mild DOWNWARD movement of this suspension corner caused by
driver input (steering, braking, throttle). Called slow because the damper is
moving down (extending) in a slow motion, usually below 70mm/sec damper
speed (use telemetry). Used to affect chassis balance while we are transitioning
into, and out, of the corners. Decreasing this number will speed up how quickly
this corner gives up - or "sheds" - weight transfer while we are transitioning.
Increasing this setting will slow it down.

Springs
Adjust the stiffness of the springs. Lessening the stiffness yields better
grip but slows response time to driver input. More stiffness makes the car
respond more quickly to driver input, but yields less grip.

Camber
Adjust the angle of the wheel in relation to the driving surface. Negative camber
makes the top of the tyres tilt inward towards the centre of the chassis, and
helps give better grip through the corners. Though used less frequently, positive
camber means that the wheel tilts outward, which gives some stability in a
straight line but less grip when cornering. Ideal camber can be tuned by the
tyre temps. You want the inner temps about 7-10C hotter than the outer temps,
slightly less at the rear. For a road racing car , you will use only negative
camber. The amount is dependant on the type of suspension the car has and the
amount of roll resistance (springs + anti-roll bars) utilized in the setup. The
stiffer the roll resistance the less negative camber you need. The less efficient
the suspension the more negative camber you need.

Caster
Adjust the degree the tyre leans forward or back at the top of the wheel. Caster
increases or decreases directional stability. Positive caster provides the
directional stability, yet too much positive caster makes steering more difficult.
Negative caster requires less steering effort but can cause the car to wander
down straights.

Packers
Adjust the number of packers. Extra spacers put in to adjust how soon the
bump stops come into play to limit downward travel of the chassis. The more
packers, the sooner and more effective the bump stops will be at limiting travel,
but can cause chassis instability over bumps and heavy vertical G-force corners -
like Spa's Eau Rouge. Use only if necessary as a last resort to avoid chassis
scraping.

Ride Height
Adjust how high the bottom of the car is off of the ground. The lower the ride
height, the less suspension travel, and the lower the car's centre of gravity
will be. Adjusting the ride height too low can make bumpy tracks tricky because
the car is more likely to bottom out.

Front Splitter
Adjust the level of downforce applied by the splitter. Adds front-end grip at
speed. The higher the number, the more air the front wing deflects, the more
downforce and drag (slowing top speed).
Rear Wing
Adjusts the level of downforce at the rear of the car, and the main adjustment
for Aerodynamic balance. After deciding on a front splitter for the track type,
you use the rear wing to dial-in the aerodynamic balance. Total amount of
adjustments are 10 for NGT cars and 12 for GT cars. For splitter setting "1" you
need a setting of 4-7. For Splitter "2" you need a setting of 8-12. Keep in mind
that the more rear wing setting used the more aero drag you will have, slowing
top speed.

Anti-roll bar
Adjust the stiffness of the anti-roll bars in the front/rear of the car. Keeps car
from rolling excessively through the turns. This aids in camber control for the
tyres so we don't have to run excessively stiff springs or camber angles. It
also gives an easy way to adjust over/understeer balance. The stiffer a specific
anti-roll bar is, the more weight transfer that end of the car will handle and cause
that end to loose traction sooner. So stiffening the front will tend towards
understeer (front will wash out) and stiffening the rear will tend towards
oversteer (rear end will come around).

Toe-in
Adjust the degree the front of the wheels angle towards or away from each
other. This affects the directional stability and initial turn-in, but too much
toe in any direction can slow the car down with increased rolling drag. On the
rear, usually you want toe-in (positive settings), as toe-out (negative settings)
creates instability. On the front, usually you want a slight amount of toe-out
(negative numbers) as this helps turn-in. Too much toe-in in either direction can
cause understeer and tyre wear. This is not a major setup tweak.
Suggest you leave these at the defaults.

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