Chemistry behind hair straightening http://www.ehow.com/video_4950968_do-chemical-hair-straighteners-work_.html http://thetartan.org/2009/11/9/scitech/howthingswork http://cen.acs.org/articles/88/i45/Hair-Straighteners.
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Relaxer Function
break hair's disulfide bonds to loosen or "relax" the curl
Rebonding Same but claim to provide the
added benefit of improved shine and texture along with the new shape
Reducing agent Time Frame
sodium hydroxide; ammonium thioglycolate
take less time and don't require thermal heat tools to accomplish the straightening effect
formaldehyde
several hours depending on the length and texture of hair. It involves thermal heat, so blow drying and flat ironing are necessary for rebonding the hair into its straight shape. safe to use on color-treated or highlighted hair
Considerations
can not be done on colortreated or highlighted hair because of the increased damage it will cause
Permanent Hair Wave
Introduction: The formation of disulfide bonds has a direct application in producing curls in hair by the permanent wave process. Hair keratin consists of many protein alpha-helices. Three alphahelices are interwoven into a left-handed coil called a protofibril. Eleven protofibrils are bonded and coiled together to make a microfibril. Hundreds of these microfibrils are cemented into an irregular bundle called a macrofibril. These in turn are mixed with dead and living cells to make a complete
strand of hair. Although it may seem incredible, in order for hair to grow 6 inches in one year, 9-1/2 turns of a -helix must be produced every second. The alphahelices are extensively cross-linked with disulfide bonds from cysteine. These bonds enable keratin to have a somewhat elastic nature. If the alpha -helices stretch unevenly past each other, the disulfide crosslinks return them to the original position when the tension is released.
Disulfide Bonds: Disulfide bonds are formed by oxidation of the sulfhydryl groups on cysteine. Revie w reaction. Different protein chains or loops within a single chain are held together by the strong covalent disulfide bonds. The alphahelices in the hair strands are bonded by disulfide links.
Use Reducing Agent: In the permanent wave process, a basic reducing substance (usually ammonium thioglycolate) is first added to reduce and rupture some of the disulfide cross-links.
Temporary Wave: When the hair gets wet, water molecules intrude into the keratin strands. The sheer numbers of water molecules are able to disrupt some of the hydrogen bonds which also help to keep the alphahelices aligned. The helices are able to slip past each other and will retain a new shape in the hair drying process as new hydrogen bonds are formed. The hair strands are able for a short time to maintain the new curl in the hair. Permanent Wave: For a permanent wave, we will continue the discussion from the use of the reducing agent. The hair is put on rollers or curlers. Since the alpha-
helices are no longer tightly cross-linked to each other, the alpha-helices can shift positions in relation to each other. An oxidizing agent, usually a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, (also called the neutralizer) is added to reform the disulfide bonds in their new positions. The permanent will hold these new disulfide bond positions until the hair grows out, since new hair growth is of course not treated.
Process of perming Hair perming involves the use of chemicals to break and reform the disulfide bonds of the hair. The hair is washed and wrapped on a perm rod and waving lotion is applied with a base. Hair perms can be done with acid or alkaline perming solutions. Alkaline base is suitable for normal and resistant hair whereas acid perm solutions are milder and are ideal for fragile, damaged or colored hair. The base solution reacts with the Keratin of the cortex, breaking some of the disulfide cross-links within and between the protein chains and makes the hair to swell and soften. While the solution is important, it is actually the perm rod that will determine the type of curl one will have. The hair then molds around the shape of the perm rod. After a specified period of time, the hair is rinsed and a neutralizer is applied. It is the neutralizing solution that reforms the disulfide bonds of the hair and sets the new curls. Perming of hair typically takes about 2 h. It takes about another 24 h for the perm to fully settle and its impact to be completely felt. A hair perm usually lasts about 35 months.
