Auto Electronic's Project The Global Car Tracking System
Auto Electronic's Project The Global Car Tracking System
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car (/tag/type-id/category-technology /keyword-car/) tracking (/tag/type-id/category-technology
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWM/G9NI/HNVJ0OSM/FWMG9NIHNVJ0OSM.LARGE.jpg) Bring out your 3D glasses and enjoy viewing in a novel way!
I have added a new dimension to my instructable. If you do not have 3D glasses, then you can make one yourself. The following link explains how to make 3D glasses ( link (http://www.wikihow.com/Make-3D-Glasses-With-HomeSupplies) ).
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/keyword-tracking/) gsm (/tag/type-id/category-technology /keyword-gsm/) gps (/tag/type-id/category-technology /keyword-gps/) module (/tag/type-id/category-technology /keyword-module/) sd card (/tag/type-id/category-technology /keyword-sd card/) logger (/tag/type-id/category-technology /keyword-logger/)
Please Note: This instructable contains 3D images which are best viewed with Red and Cyan 3D Glasses. However, for those of you who do not have 3D glasses, this instructable also contains 2D images.
Every year about 700,000 vehicles get stolen in US. In fact, a car is stolen every 45 seconds. We all love our cars and whether it is a roaring Lamborghini or a purring Prius, we are attached to it and wish that it never gets stolen. I am very attached to my family car and take lots of precaution that I do not park my car in secluded places or double check that I always lock my car when I park it anywhere and always carry my car keys with me. However, I am still worried whether my car is safe. In order to get rid of these genuine worries, I decided to design my own low cost car tracking system. In this instructable, I have explained the process of building one's very own Global Car Tracking System -'Athena' - for a cost of just 100$. The steps for building this device is very simple and explained in a lucid manner. The skills required for you to build this is minimum (Basic knowledge about electronics and the Arduino IDE). I have christened this device by the name 'Athena' because Athena is the Greek Goddess of navigation. So what are we waiting for.....let's get started.......
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRD/53E5/HO22Z7F9/FRD53E5HO22Z7F9.LARGE.jpg)
Related
Geo Data Logger: Arduino+GPS+SD+Accelerometer to log, time-stamp, and geo-tag sensor data (/id/Geo-Data-LoggerTrack your route! (using arduino, microSD card shield, and GPS) (/id/Trackyour-route-using-arduinomicroSD-card-shi/) Arduino GPS Datalogger (/id/ArduinoGPS-Datalogger/)
by jonnyboy323 (/member
Version 2.0 Arduino Controlled Car Tracking System based on SMS (/id/Version-20-ArduinoControlled-Car-TrackingDarkness Map Data Collection Device (/id/Darkness-Map-DataCollection-Device/) See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)
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1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Arduino Uno Arduino GSM Shield (I have used a SIM900 GSM/GPRS Shield Module) GPS Module Adapter Plug for powering the Arduino 4pcs of LM7805 IC PCB Wires
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Athena: The Global Car Tracking System(3D Images) 8. Male Header Pins 9. Female Header Pins 10. Project Enclosure
Tools : 1. Soldering Iron 2. Solder 3. Soldering Wax (http://cdn.instructables.com/F2M/7RAP/HO22Z8DC/F2M7RAPHO22Z8DC.LARGE.jpg) 4. Drill 5. Hacksaw
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The Arduino and GSM shield operate at voltages between 5 volts and 12 volts. Although the car has a 12 volt battery and electrical system, the voltage can
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FV9/XM1B/HNVJ0QAO/FV9XM1BHNVJ0QAO.LARGE.jpg)
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Athena: The Global Car Tracking System(3D Images) http://www instr!ctables com/i"/Athena#The#Global#Car sometimes spike up and damage the Arduino if connected directly. Hence to be on the safer side, I have decided to use an LM7805 Voltage regulator to regulate the 12 volts input voltage to 5 volts. The LM7805 IC generates an output of 5 volts 0.5 amps. Since the GSM module can sometimes draw upto 2 Amperes of (http://cdn.instructables.com/FH1/RMP0/HNTTG7Q6/FH1RMP0HNTTG7Q6.LARGE.jpg) current, I have used 4 pcs of LM7805 IC to meet the requirement.
The Circuit : 1. Cut the PCB using a hacksaw into a piece large enough to fit the 4pcs of LM7805 IC (Refer to Pic. 1). 2. Arrange the LM7805 in a parallel connection on the PCB (Refer to Pic. 1) (http://cdn.instructables.com/F78/Z4DJ/HNVJ0Q5P/F78Z4DJHNVJ0Q5P.LARGE.jpg) and bend the leads of the IC to connect them in parallel(Refer to Pic. 3) 3. Solder Wires to the 12v Input of LM7805, Ground Input, 5v Output of LM7805 and Ground Output. 4. Connect the Adapter plug to the 5v Output and Ground Output Wires. The final product should look like Pic. 5
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In this step you will drill the holes to mount the Arduino and the GSM Antenna to the project enclosure. 1. Drill four holes at the bottom of the project enclosure to secure the Arduino Uno in it. 2. Drill a hole on the left wall of the enclosure big enough for the USB cable to connect to the Arduino. 3. Drill a hole on the right wall for the GSM Module Antenna. 4. Drill two holes on the right wall for the Power Input wires.
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The GPS module must be connected in a detachable manner to the Arduino (http://cdn.instructables.com/FDB/8GEP/HNVJ0RCQ/FDB8GEPHNVJ0RCQ.LARGE.jpg) Uno. If wires are soldered to the module, then the module cannot be reused for some other application or project. Hence I have used header pins to create a detachable connection between the GPS module and the Arduino. The following are the steps to create a detachable connection:(http://cdn.instructables.com/FS8/B319/HO22Z8MB/FS8B319HO22Z8MB.LARGE.jpg) 1. Cut four pieces of wire and solder the male header pins to one end of the wire. Wrap the soldered ends of the wire in insulation tape(Refer to Pic. 3). 2. If female header pins are available, then solder the other ends of the wire to the female header pins. (Top tip: If female header pins are not available, then briefly heat the ends of the wire over a candle to partially melt and loosen up the insulation on the wire. Then force each of the wires into the Vcc, Gnd , Tx and Rx pins of the GPS Module. Refer to the Pic. 4) 3. After connecting the wires to the Vcc, Gnd , Tx and Rx pins, the GPS module (http://cdn.instructables.com/F9A/5JP8/HNVJ0RD2/F9A5JP8HNVJ0RD2.LARGE.jpg) should look like Pic. 6
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Now you can assemble all the parts of the Global Tracking System. 1. Place the Arduino Uno in the project enclosure and fasten it with screws or (http://cdn.instructables.com/FPR/W48C/HNVJ0T5U/FPRW48CHNVJ0T5U.LARGE.jpg) zip tie(Refer to Pic. 1). 2. Insert the Adapter plug into the Arduino and place the Voltage Regulator Circuit into the enclosure. Insert the Input Voltage wires through the two holes drilled in the enclosure(Refer to Pic. 3). 3. Screw the GSM antenna in place(Refer to Pic. 5). Insert SIM card into the GSM module and place the module over the the Arduino Uno( Refer to Pic. 7). 4. Place the GPS module in the project enclosure and connect it to the GSM (http://cdn.instructables.com/FKD/0PMB/HO22Z8P3/FKD0PMBHO22Z8P3.LARGE.jpg) shield in the following manner. Connect the Vcc pin from the GPS module to 5v on the GSM Shield. Connect the Gnd pin from the GPS module to Gnd pin on the GSM Shield. Connect the RXD pin from the GPS module to Pin 5 on the GSM Shield. Connect the TXD pin from the GPS module to Pin 4 on the GSM Shield.
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F7M/ACDY/H0OJ2UXG/F7MACDYH0OJ2UXG.LARGE.jpg)
Before you can program the Arduino Uno, you must first install the Tiny GPS library for the GPS Module. These are the steps to install the library :1. Download the Tiny GPS library for the Arduino. (link (https://github.com /mikalhart/TinyGPS/releases/tag/v13)) 2. Extract the zip file to the folder: " Libraries/Documents/Arduino/libraries " 3. Now you would see the library under " Sketch --> Import Library " in the Arduino IDE. 4. You can proceed with the Arduino Uno programming. The following is the source code for the Arduino. Copy the code below and load it on the Arduino ://Program written for Global Car Tracking System by Jayvis Gonsalves #include <SoftwareSerial.h> #include <string.h> #include <TinyGPS.h> SoftwareSerial Sim900Serial(2, 3); byte buffer[64]; // buffer array for data recieve over serial port int count=0; // counter for buffer array SoftwareSerial GPS(4, 5); TinyGPS gps; unsigned long fix_age; long lat, lon; float LAT, LON; void gpsdump(TinyGPS &gps); bool feedgps(); void getGPS(); void setup()
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Athena: The Global Car Tracking System(3D Images) http://www instr!ctables com/i"/Athena#The#Global#Car { Sim900Serial.begin(19200); // the SIM900 baud rate GPS.begin(9600); // GPS module baud rate Serial.begin(9600); // the Serial port of Arduino baud rate. delay(500); Sim900_Inti(); }
void loop() { Sim900Serial.listen(); if (Sim900Serial.available()) // If date is comming from from GSM shield) { while(Sim900Serial.available()) // reading data into char array { buffer[count ]=Sim900Serial.read(); // writing data into array if(count == 64)break; } Serial.write(buffer,count); // if no data transmission ends, write buffer to hardware serial port Cmd_Read_Act(); //Read the 'COMMAND' sent to SIM900 through SMS clearBufferArray(); // call clearBufferArray function to clear the storaged data from the array count = 0; // set counter of while loop to zero
} if (Serial.available()) // if data is available on hardwareserial port ==> data is comming from PC or notebook Sim900Serial.println(Serial.read()); // write it to the GPRS shield } void clearBufferArray() // function to clear buffer array { for (int i=0; i<count;i ) { buffer[i]=NULL;} // clear all index of array with command NULL } void Sim900_Inti(void) { Sim900Serial.println("AT CMGF=1"); // Set GSM shield to sms mode Serial.println("AT CMGF=1"); delay(500); Sim900Serial.println("AT CNMI=2,2"); Serial.println("AT CMGF=1"); delay(500); } void Cmd_Read_Act(void) //Function reads the SMS sent to SIM900 shield. { char buffer2[64]; for (int i=0; i<count;i ) { buffer2[i]=char(buffer[i]);} if (strstr(buffer2,"INSTRUCTABLES")) //Comparing password entered with password stored in program { Serial.println("Password Authenticated."); Serial.println("Sending reply SMS. ");
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Sim900Serial.print("AT CMGF=1\r"); //Sending the SMS in text mode delay(100); Sim900Serial.println("AT CMGS = \"**********\"");//The predefined phone number delay(100); Sim900Serial.println("Please wait while Module calculates position");//the content of the message delay(100); Sim900Serial.println((char)26);//the ASCII code of the ctrl z is 26 delay(100); Sim900Serial.println(); int counter=0; GPS.listen();
for (;;) { long lat, lon; unsigned long fix_age, time, date, speed, course; unsigned long chars; unsigned short sentences, failed_checksum; long Latitude, Longitude; // retrieves /- lat/long in 100000ths of a degree gps.get_position(&lat, &lon, &fix_age); getGPS(); Serial.print("Latitude : "); Serial.print(LAT/1000000,7); Serial.print(" :: Longitude : "); Serial.println(LON/1000000,7); if (LAT == 0 && LON == 0) { continue; } counter ; if (counter<30) { continue; } Sim900Serial.print("AT CMGF=1\r"); //Sending the SMS in text mode delay(100); Sim900Serial.println("AT CMGS = \"**********\"");//The predefined phone number delay(100); Sim900Serial.print("Latitude : "); Sim900Serial.print(LAT/1000000,7); Sim900Serial.print(" :: Longitude : "); Sim900Serial.println(LON/1000000,7);//the content of the message delay(100); Sim900Serial.println((char)26);//the ASCII code of the ctrl z is 26 delay(100); Sim900Serial.println();
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Step 7: Testing
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FVN/ILN7/HNVJ0WFA/FVNILN7HNVJ0WFA.LARGE.jpg)
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Now that you have built the 'Athena', it is time to install it in your vehicle. The device can be installed anywhere in the car: the hood, cabin or trunk. Remember that the device must be hidden from view and difficult to locate by a car thief. The device must directly be connected to the 12v Car battery as it must run even when the car is switched off. Steps to track down your vehicle using 'Athena' :1. When your car is stolen and you wish to track your car, simply send a text
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Athena: The Global Car Tracking System(3D Images) http://www instr!ctables com/i"/Athena#The#Global#Car message containing the password to your car. 2. Athena then verifies the password you entered with the password stored in its program. If the password matches, then Athena sends an acknowledgment SMS to the predefined phone/cell number stored in it. 3. Athena then begins to calculate its GPS position and once a GPS lock is acheived, it sends the coordinates of its location to the number stored in its program. 4. After you receive the Coordinates in your message, copy them to the search bar in google maps to reveal the position of your stolen car.
And there you go...congratulations!!! You have built your very own Global Car Tracking System. If you have any difficulties building this instructable, do feel free to ask. GREAT!!!!! NOW GO AHEAD AND CONSTRUCT ONE YOURSELF!!!!! : )
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1-40 of 108
4 days ago
Reply (C5TDMZKHQLO4YZB)
buffer[count ]=Sim900Serial.read(); // writing data into array if(count == 64)break; } i had a doubt in that part of the code isn't there a need for count++
9 days ago
Reply (CTP7Y6LHQDLYSIQ)
And also please please supply a link for all the components.Would be very helpful
(/member /Swagata1/)
9 days ago
Reply (C7UVBRZHQDLYSEE)
hey I too am from India(Bangalore).Could you let me know to how much the total will come in INR. Thanks in advance
9 days ago
Reply (C9VOTAMHQCPMORT)
Very nice and interesting project. I'm just getting started with this Arduino stuff and project was my motivation. Specifically I'm using: Arduino Uno r3, IComsat GSM/GPRS v1.1, Parallax PMB-688 GPS
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I even got a 16x4 Samsung LCD to test displaying coordinates on the LCD. So far I have tested the GPS, LCD separately successfully. I'm trying the IComsat to send simple text messages for testing but it's not working. I'm trying the examples on the supplied library (https://github.com/jgarland79/GSM_Shield (https://github.com/jgarland79/GSM_Shield)) but I receive a SIM900 error (will post pics on next message). I can see the power, status and net LEDs on the board turned on and blinking. The SIM card I'm using is from AT&T. As I can see on you code you don't use any special library to deal with the GSM other than the SoftwareSerial.h Will try some other examples today and let you know if it works.
Reply (C6PPLQJHQCWGOKF)
Used a library I found at: https://gsmshield-arduino.googlecode.com/files /BE... (https://gsm-shieldarduino.googlecode.com/files /BETA_GSM_GPRS_GPS_IDE100_v305.zip And also had to set the jumpers on the shield TX pin to #2 and RX pin to #3. Loaded one of the examples and it's now working fine. Now that everything is working I'll start putting it all together. Once I get everything working I'll post procedure, code, etc.
Reply (C5NULM9HQBR6982)
I may have missed it but is there a list with (/member links to buy these materials, preferably on /instructable1234/) Amazon? Some of the materials I saw on the supplies list are very vague. Thanks a lot.
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (CX2DUZ8HQBX7QKI) reply to instructable1234 11 days ago
6 Can you specify (/member /Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/)
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (C3JOLJ0HQBX7QKA) reply to instructable1234 11 days ago
or community request)
13 days ago
Reply (CN35S3WHQ8XYLS7)
Hi, great tutorial! Congratulations! Could you please tell me if the IComSat v1.1 GSM/GPRS Shield, should be an alternative for this project? The wiring of the GPS to the pins it's the same? Thanks!!
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12 days ago
alternative.
asalvatierra (/member/asalvatierra/) in reply to Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves Reply (CSMRNR5HQ9OLW1U) 12 days ago
(/member the /asalvatierra/)
Hi! Thanks for your reply! What is specification of the pins 4 and 5 that connect to GPS? IComSat have different pin order in the shield, so i very confused about the connections from GPS to GSM shield. Thanks!
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (CGHDUCWHQAQDL2H) reply to asalvatierra 12 days ago
6 Can you provide (/member /Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/)
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (C54VC5LHQ9K7KQR) reply to asalvatierra 12 days ago
or community request)
19 days ago
Reply (CE6ZKY1HQ0HS23U)
iam planning to use sim300, the same program can be used for tat also?
(/member /mahesh94/)
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (CULBKRBHQ9K7KKG) reply to mahesh94 12 days ago
26 days ago
Reply (C31QZSBHPQO9H9I)
(/member /c1c2c3/)
Could you please give me the exact name of your GSM shield Also, which sim did you use? One more thing, do you think the adafruit gps will work for this project
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (C8IV44ZHPQO9JDD) reply to c1c2c3 26 days ago
I had ordered the GSM shield from Ebay USA. Here is a link to the product 6 (/member (link (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SIMCOM-SIM900-Quad-band/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) GSM-GPRS-Shield-for-Arduino-with-micro-SD-cardslot-/151121095914?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232f84ecea)). I am from Mumbai, India and have used a prepaid SIM from MTNL. The adafruit gps shield should work for this project. But I suggest that you have a look at this GPS module on Ebay which is available for about half the price of the adafruit one. (link (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-
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UART-Serial-GPS-Module-For-Arduino-uController-w-Breakout-BoardPins-/330725788211?pt=GPS_Devices&hash=item4d00cb0a33))
26 days ago
Reply (C57OUWZHPQ47JN7)
thanks for the reply!!! question is, how can i learn the commands in order the arduino to communicate with the gsm/gprs module, for future use? Did you use any e-book? do you have any suggestions? I have some intermidiate knowledge in c programming thanks ! jiannis from greece
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (COU79GRHPQO9IOZ) reply to jiannisgreece 26 days ago
Hi Jiannis, The commands used for communicating with the GSM module 6 (/member are known as 'AT Commands'. If you google the word AT commands it will /Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) throw up a lot of info about it. Here is a link of some other AT commands that you could use (link (http://www.engineersgarage.com/tutorials /at-commands?page=4)).
26 days ago
Reply (C691R7WHPPSQCFW)
So im not quite sure I understand what kind of service fee's this thing would besides your normal cell phone fee that you are texting from. Where did the sim card come from?
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (CZY4F54HPQO9IFY) reply to oconnor77 26 days ago
You do not incur any service fees. You are only charged for the SMS 6 (/member from your mobile phone to the tracking system and from the tracking /Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) system to your mobile phone.
sent
27 days ago
Reply (CAI037QHPOM2XOI)
"+" is missing
(/member /drin_pogi/)
Hi, (/member Congratulations for this circuit, this is clever, /Jimmy_Kerrigan/) very inexpensive ... This is a good proof of concept. But I work in automotive electronics and, in my opinion, the hardware implementation is not adapted to the use profile. Thus, in the actual state, the reliability and lifetime of this circuit will be extremely bad. First, for me, the power supply circuit is not only awfull, but also totally not acceptable for automotive use. In general, it is impossible to use linear regulators with quiescent currents above 100mA, even with body controllers (Tmax=85C) because of the heating of the component. For information, I used a
Reply (CBZ08ABHP68868P)
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LM7805 in a design, for external sensor supply. With a D-PAK package we never manage to obtain more than 300mA without having thermal shutdown, at ambient temperature (~25C). In addition, the reliability of this solution is very bad. - If the 4 ICs are not exactly matched, the current won't be equally distributed between them. - If one of the 4 ICs breaks or goes in thermal shutdown, the others will have to withstand a bigger current, then they will heat more, and will be more likely to break or go in thermal shutdown -> avalanche, failure of one compromises the whole power supply. - I'm not 100% sure about this one : there is a high risk of oscillation with such parallel circuitry. - No additional output capacitor for the regulators ? -> High oscillation risk. - No additional input capacitor for the regulators ? -> Noise rejection on the on-board battery network, in paticular with high-frequency / high-current MCU modules ! This is not strictly dangerous because the requirements on this point are mostly normative, but it is a risk for oher ECUs in the car - I think the radio is the weakest victim. On automotive ECUs, it is strongly advised to have an input PI filter. - Regulators are packed close to each other -> bad heat dissipation. The regulators should be at least mounted on a metalic heat dissipator. - No transient protection -> The 7805 IC can withstand the load-dump 35V voltage, but must be protected against transient voltage (100Vautomotive transients, ESDs ...). A TVS is the roxor solution, ceramic input capacitors can also do the job (2x X7R 22nF minimum, in serial, 90C from each other in order to avoid aggraved short-circuit in case one of the two breaks because of mechanical flexion). Note : having a big electrolithic capacitor on the input isn't enough, because they can't absorb all the transients. - Power consumption : Vbatt x Iquiescent : 24W nominal / 32W max ! (note : battery voltage can rise up to 16V DC) Is there a sleeping mode ? Or is it connected on the APC (switched battery voltage) ? It is quite high for a circuit that must be supplied permanently ... Car batteries have a good capacity, but if the car is left stopped a long time, there is a little risk of having the battery depleted. - You say that the module consumes up to 2A, but is it DC ? If it is just a transient, it is more wise to design a proper L-C filter - or PI filter - in order to absorb this current peak, better than over-sizing the whole power supply. It would be more reliable, and safer since a short-circuit will drain less current, then avoid current leaking from the battery when the car is stopped, and limiting the risk of fire (wires or PCB tracks burning ...). I think a power supply with linear regulators could be used, with proper protections and heat dissipation, if the circuit is supplied on a switched battery voltage, or if it has a sleeping mode. If it is connected to the permanent battery voltage, the circuit will be even more exposed to failure, because it will constantly heat. Reliability and lifetime of ICs lower when temperature raises ... This is what I think about the power supply. About the rest, don't forget that the modules use consumer or industrial rated components. On the Arduinio UNO, the main components are rated for 85C. It won't be a problem if the module is inside the car, but it will if it is hidden behind the hood, close to the motor (cooling system is regulated at 90C, for instance) ... Even below the sheet metal of the car body the temperature can rise far higher than 70C during summer ... In this environment, some components can go in thermal breakdown very easily. And I am not even talking about the GPS and GSM modules and the plastic case ... For me, the power supply should be changed, using a DC/DC switching module. It should be connected on the switched battery voltage (not supplied when the car is stopped). If it has to be checking the position of the car even with the motor off (which is not absurd : wrecker, pound ...) then it should have a sleeping mode, which cuts the main power supply most of the time, then activates it periodically for position checking. And it should be hidden in the cabin or in the trunk, where the temperature is reasonnable. I admit that these are not small modifications, but in the actual state, I don't think
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that this circuit will last long in a real car ... Adapting a circuit for automotive environment is always difficult.
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (C6SQTFHHPLWYTN3) reply to Jimmy_Kerrigan 28 days ago
Thank you Mr. Kerrigan for taking the time to write such a comprehensive 6 (/member comment. I will definitely work on improving the power supply circuit once /Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) complete all my applications to the US Universities. I will upload the updates to the circuit by the end of January.
1 month ago
Reply (CRM51K4HPG4OL42)
very nice project!! i am new in this field, but i definately would give it a try to make myself!!! Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves, is it so easy as you describe? i am planning to buy the modules from ebay.
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (C8DBUYHHPLWYTLP) reply to jiannisgreece 28 days ago
Yes, this project is very easy to build. I only need to improve on the power supply circuit and make it more robust. I will upload the updates to the circuit by the end of January.
1 month ago
Reply (CC7TM86HO7XJ3SU)
You can get very inexpensive switching regulators that require no external components. We're talking about $10-$15 for a 5V @ 3A regulator that is connected much the same as a 7805, but is a lot more reliable. Awesome instructable otherwise.
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6 LRs fail due to a high current load, the (/member other 3 will likely fail immediately after. /DeusXMachina/)
It's much better to use a single regulator, then chain several together in parallel, for many reasons.
You should be able to get one for WAY less than $10. Without much optimizing, I found some for ~$4 on Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail /en/LT323AT%23PBF /LT323AT%23PBF-ND/888959 If one hunted around, one could get them for even less. I've seen one to that spec for around $2 each, even without bulk discount.
you could just use an outboard (/member transistor (aka current booster), /jproffer/) using a darlington or 2n3055.
Reply (CDS4TD3HP7RH52O)
Reply (CDSELWGHPF4FLLB)
See using any linear regulator is wasteful of power. Adding an external transistor turns your existing linear regulator into a more powerful one (capable of more output current), but at the end of the day, it is still a linear regulator. Linear regulator acts as a series "variable resistor" that makes sure the output voltage is regulated (to a certain extent). So if you have 5V x 2A =10W at the output (or a 10W load), you have a 12V x 2A =24W at the input. So you're wasting 14W, realistically car battery is at 14-ish volts, so you'd be wasting about 18W of power. In other words, you car "sees" the thing you connected to it as a 28W load while only 10W of that are being delivered to the actual load. Switching regulators act as (AC-)transformers but for DC circuits. So if you have the same 5V@2A load, the input current consumption will be 10W/14V=0.714A (or about
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700mA). That assumes 100% efficiency. Realistically over 90% efficiency is achievable, so if 10W is at the load, you'll have about 10W/0.9=11.1W on the input. 11.1W/14V=0.793A which is about 800mA. So with a switching regulator, the higher the input voltage - the lower the input current at the same load conditions. If you add a backup battery at the input, this will become very relevant on the battery life. Of course, if you add one on the 5V side, you won't have to worry nearly as much about it, but... oh well, I probably said enough :) Merry Christmas!
1 month ago
Reply (CAVRKLCHOHYJN99)
Second the idea for a backup battery addition. Great instructable, going to build to track golf carts... You got my vote!
Reply (C9DMCQQHOHYIN4T)
6 very inefficient (it dissipates that voltage drop as heat). What you really want is (/member DC/DC switching converter (aka buck converter) That'll run you at most $10 or /DeusXMachina/)
Oh and one more thing. You can drop 12V to 5V using a linear regulator, but it's a less. Here is an example: http://www.adafruit.com/products/1385
Adafruit is awesome and I love supporting them, but again you could get more for less if you're willing to hunt.
2 months ago
Reply (CF411KKHO7XDX97)
For someone clumsy with 2 left hands like me, would you be able to offer a solution?
Reply (CZ75RJMHO7XJUKZ)
2 months ago
Reply (CCBM21GHO7XJACU)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWG/0MQ0/HO7XJACT /FWG0MQ0HO7XJACT.LARGE.gif)
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Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) Reply (C02NH12HO7XG07S) 2 months ago in reply to Horef
6 In some years (/member instructable! /Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/)
MrE (/member/MrE/) in reply to Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves Reply (CZGRYO6HO7XJUFR) 2 months ago
/23/get-your-chocolate-fix-withoutthe-guilt-electronic-lollipopcan-simulate-any-taste/ i hope somebody does an instructable about this. Even though I know this is proprietary stuff. But think about it the food section of instructables would be awesome.
2 months ago
Reply (CU5ZR6YHO7XE8J9)
cool!
6 (/member /Ploopy/)
2 months ago
Reply (C9S3Y2CHO7XHHKA)
Brilliant instrucable! And also nice work in including the arduino sketch as well.
(/member Regards, /karlosjackel/)
Karl
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves (/member/Jayvis+Vineet+Gonsalves/) (author) in Reply (CZMOLRHHO7XG1BZ) 2 months ago reply to karlosjackel
Make Comment
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