4 fun

CHAIN MAIL
projects
2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any
form without permission from the publisher.
magazine
Half-Byzantine
HOOP
Earrings
Give hoop earrings a
new grace
by using a half-
Byzantine chain
mail pattern
to link them.
by John Fetvedt
beginner
chain mail
AN EASY TRIPLE LOOP
F
unky, swinging hoop earrings have
cycled in and out of fashion for as
long as people have been wearing
jewelry. This new take on the trend moves
toward a more subtle style, with three
larger hoops linked in a tapered shape by
half of a Byzantine chain pattern. Its the
gauge of the larger jump rings that allows
them to fit inside the connecting rings, so
if you want a bolder look, you can increase
the diameters of the larger rings as much
as you wish as long as you keep their
gauge the same.
Link three jump rings with half of a
Byzantine chain pattern to make a
new variation on graduated hoops.
2
1
2 in. (64 mm) long.
www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com 1
Close two 6.5 mm inside-diameter (ID)
jump rings, two 9.5 mm ID jump rings, and
two 13 mm ID jump rings (for tips on open-
ing and closing jump rings, go to www.
artjewelrymag.com and click on How To
and then Wirework) [1]. To give your
completed earrings a more finished look,
permanently close the cuts in these jump
rings by fusing or soldering them shut.
(For instructions on fusing and soldering
jump rings, see Fuse or Solder? right.)
Thread one 3 mm ID jump ring onto
one of the 13 mm rings and close it; repeat
with another 3 mm ring. Thread a 3 mm
ring through the first pair of 3 mm rings
and close it; repeat with a second 3 mm
ring [2].
Flip the second pair of 3 mm rings back,
one to each side of the first pair. Insert a
needle tool or small pick above the 13 mm
ring to hold the first pair of rings apart and
expose the second pair of rings [3].
Insert a 3 mm ring alongside the needle
fuse or solder?
You dont need a complex torch setup to fuse or solder jump
rings a handheld butane torch and a soldering surface will
do. Relatively inexpensive butane torches are available at most
hardware stores. For basic information on working with torches,
go to www.artjewelrymag.com, click on How To, and then
Metals, and then Soldering.
If your jump rings are made of Argentium Sterling Silver or fine
silver, you can either fuse or solder them. (I find that fusing the
rings results in a smoother seam.) If your jump rings are made
of sterling silver or gold they can only be soldered.
To fuse your jump rings, first close them, making sure that the
ends are aligned and tightly abutting each other. (For tips on
opening and closing jump rings, go to www.artjewelrymag.com
and click on How To and then Wirework.) Lay the rings on
a soldering pad or firebrick with the cuts facing toward you.
Working on one ring at a time, gently heat the whole ring by
moving your torch in a circular motion, then concentrate the
point of the flame on the cut. When the area on either side of
the cut turns cloudy, the metal is almost hot enough to fuse,
so get ready to move the torch away. As soon as the metal at
the join becomes shiny and the join appears somewhat less
defined, remove the torch.
The join may not disappear completely, but the ring will be
fused. If youre using Argentium sterling, let the rings cool a
bit before you quench them; Argentium sterling is somewhat
fragile when its hot.
To solder your jump rings, first close them, making sure the
ends are aligned and tightly abutting each other. Lay the rings
on a soldering pad or firebrick, with the cuts facing away from
you. Dab a small amount of paste solder to the inside of each
cut. Turn the board or brick so
that the cuts are facing you.
Working on one ring at a time,
gently heat the whole ring;
then concentrate the tip of the
flame on the cut. The solder
will melt and move toward the
heat of the torch. Remove the
torch as soon as the solder has
flowed into the join.
materials
Jump rings:
20-gauge (0.8 mm), 3 mm inside
diameter (ID), 32
16-gauge (1.3 mm), 6.5 mm ID, 2
16-gauge (1.3 mm), 9.5 mm ID, 2
16-gauge (1.3 mm), 13 mm ID, 2
Pair of ear wires
tools & supplies
Pliers: 2 pairs of chainnose, bentnose, or
flatnose
Needle tool or pick
Torch station (optional): torch, paste
solder (medium), soldering pad or

firebrick, pickle pot with pickle, flux,

copper tongs, pick
Tumbler, steel shot, burnishing
compound (optional)
See Safety Basics by clicking on How
To at www.artjewelrymag.com.
suppliers
Jump rings (Precious Maille,
206.973.7023, www.preciousmaille.com;
Rio Grande, 800.545.6566, www.
riogrande.com)
Handheld butane torch (local hardware
store)

1
2
3
www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com 2
tool. Slide a 9.5 mm ring onto the 3 mm
ring, and close the 3 mm ring. Remove the
needle tool, and thread and close a second
3 mm ring alongside the first one [4].
Thread two 3 mm rings onto the 9.5 mm
ring and close them. Thread two more
3 mm rings through the previous pair and
close them. Flip the second pair of rings
back, one to each side of the first pair.
Insert the needle tool above the 9.5 mm
ring to hold the first pair apart and expose
the second pair [5].
Insert a 3 mm ring alongside the needle
tool. Slide a 6.5 mm ring onto the 3 mm
ring, and close the 3 mm ring. Remove the
needle tool, and thread and close a second
3 mm ring alongside the first one [6].
Thread two 3 mm rings onto the 6.5 mm
ring and close them. Thread two more
3 mm rings through the previous pair and
close them. Flip the second pair of rings
back, one to each side of the first pair.
Insert the needle tool to hold the first pair
apart and expose the second pair. Open
the loop of an ear wire and insert the loop
alongside the needle tool. Close the loop
and remove the needle tool [7].
Repeat to make a matching earring. It
is important that you start each earring
with the 13 mm rings so that the direction
of the Byzantine pattern will be the same
on both earrings.
Burnish your earrings in a tumbler with
steel shot and burnishing compound, if
desired (for instructions on tumbling, go
to www.artjewelrymag.com and click on
How To and then Finishing).
color
combinations
For a silver-and-gold look,
use gold-filled jump rings
for either the 3 mm inside-
diameter connecting rings or
for the larger rings. If you plan
to close the cuts in your gold-
filled rings, youll need to
solder them shut instead of
fusing them. When youre
soldering, use gold paste
solder of the same karat as
your gold-filled jump ring in
order to avoid having a jump
ring that sports two different
colors of gold.
To add unexpected color to
your earrings, try using ano-
dized titanium, niobium, or
aluminum for your 3 mm
connecting rings.
John Fetvedt works primarily with
silver, gold, and titanium in such
techniques as anticlastic forming,
casting, chain making, etching, fold-
forming, forging, and stone setting. He
teaches chain making and chain mail
classes at The Crafts Center at North
Carolina State University, the William
Holland School of Lapidary Arts in
Young Harris, Ga., The ArtsCenter in
Carrboro, N.C., the Interweave Bead
Fest shows, and for the Southeast
Federation of Mineralogical Societies
and the Eastern Federation of
Mineralogical and Lapidary Societies.
Three of his designs are projects in
Chain Mail Jewelry: Contemporary
Designs from Classic Techniques,
by Terry Taylor and Dylon Whyte.
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For variety,
try combining
silver and gold-
filled jump rings.
www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com 3
www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com 4
by Scott David Plumlee
I
developed this chain in 2002 when I was seeking to create new, lightweight
designs to appeal to buyers who might be put off by the weight of many chain
mail patterns. Through trial and error, I struck on a design that balanced the
simplicity of single, heavier rings with a more complex overlapping pattern
of finer rings. This design uses four gauges of wire, all balanced and in
harmony. Unlike many chain mail designs, this finished chain has a
definite front side and back side, because the interlocking infinity
pattern is added only on one side of the chain.
beginner
chain mail
2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in
any form without permission from the publisher.

Infinity

EASY CHAIN MAIL
online
exclusive
Chain
Mail
Pattern
Link four different wire gauges in
a simple, lightweight chain
design with endless appeal.
www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com 5
Make the base chain. Close all the
5.5 mm and 4.5 mm jump rings, making
sure that theyre closed flush and that they
lie flat. (For a quick video tutorial on
opening and closing jump rings, go to
www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.)
Use a flat file to remove any burs from
the outside of the jump rings and a round
file to remove any burs from the inside of
the jump rings.
Assemble the base chain by using
pairs of 3.5 mm jump rings to link all of
the 4.5 mm and 5.5 mm jump rings in an
alternating pattern [1].
Add the small infinity pattern. Thread
a 3.0 mm jump ring through the pair of
3.5 mm rings on the left side of the first
4.5 mm ring [2].
Thread another 3.0 mm ring through
the pair of 3.5 mm rings on the right side
of the same 4.5 mm ring, and through the
3.0 mm ring you just added [3].
The two interlocking 3.0 mm rings
create an overlapping infinity pattern.
Repeat until youve added an interlocking
infinity pattern over each of the 4.5 mm
rings in the chain.

forge your
own S-clasp
For a quick video tutorial on
forging an S-clasp, go to
www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.
3
2
1
Scott David
Plumlee has
been creating
silver chain
jewelry for
the past
decade,
originating
over 70 chain designs. He researched
ancient chain designs while traveling
through 32 countries on four continents.
He is the author of Handcrafting
Chain and Bead Jewelry, and has
taught classes and workshops
throughout the U.S.
www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com
4
5
6
Add the large infinity pattern. Thread
a 3.5 mm ring through the pair of 3.5 mm
jump rings on the left side of the second
5.5 mm jump ring [4].
Add a second 3.5 mm ring through
the pair of 3.5 mm rings on the right side
of the same 5.5 mm ring, and through the
3.5 mm ring you just added [5].
Repeat until youve added an interlock-
ing infinity pattern over all but the end
two 5.5 mm jump rings [6].
Add the clasp. Open the 5.5 mm ring at
one end of the chain, thread an S-clasp on
it, then close the ring [7]. The 5.5 mm ring
at the other end of the chain will serve as
the clasps catch-ring.
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materials
Sterling silver jump rings:
12, 14-gauge (1.6 mm), round,
5.5 mm inside diameter (ID)
11, 16-gauge (1.3 mm), round,
4.5 mm ID
64, 18-gauge (1.0 mm), round,
3.5 mm ID
22, 20-gauge (0.8 mm), round,
3.0 mm ID
S-clasp: hand forged or premade
tools & supplies
2 pairs of pliers: chainnose or flatnose
Files: flat, round
suppliers
Jump rings (www.spiderchain.com,
www.urbanmaille.com)

6
C
Chain
chainmail
beginner
Link a collection of jump rings in different sizes, shapes,
and materials to create this delicate chainmail bracelet
by Amy Robleski
hainmail has a reputation for being hefty and masculine. If you
were a medieval knight, youd want your chainmail to be beefy
and businesslike. After all, the armor might be the only barrier
between your tender flesh and an enemys sword. Modern jewelry
artists have discovered how to make chainmail that is far more delicate
and decorative, by joining jump rings in different sizes, gauges, and
materials. The design possibilities are virtually limitless, ranging from
stout chokers and formidable cuffs to the airy mixed-metal bracelet
featured here.
Time constraints often make it impossible to finish a project in just
one sitting, but this piece wont leave you short on satisfaction, even if
youre forced to put it down. Its meant to be created in three easy
stages. In fact, if you like the way the bracelet looks after the first or
second stage, you can simply stop and wear it as-is.
If youve never made chainmail before, see Basics, page 84, for tips
on opening and closing jump rings.

Short on time? Create a
chainmail bracelet from copper
and sterling-silver jump rings in
three easy stages.
concoction
www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com 7
concoction
1 2 3 4
5 6
7
8 9
11 10
8

Part 1

Make a
three-strand bracelet
Determine your bracelets length. To
estimate the number of copper jump rings
you will need, measure your wrist and
subtract the length of your clasp. Multiply
this length by 9. A perfect fit is not essential
for this bracelet because the clasps
extender makes it adjustable. For the
number of oval, sterling-silver jump rings
that your bracelet will require, multiply the
length by 11. For the number of round,
sterling-silver jump rings, multiply the
length by 3.
These equations overestimate the
quantities in case a jump ring becomes
deformed or marred. (See Avoid marring
your jump rings, right.) The chainmail
portion of the bracelet shown measures
5 in. (14.61cm): 48 copper jump rings, 60
oval jump rings, and 16 round jump rings
were used.
[1] Open the copper jump rings. Open
all the copper jump rings using two pairs
of chainnose or bentnose pliers. Do not
open the jump rings more than halfway.
[2] Securely close the oval jump
rings. Set aside three oval jump rings for
every inch of your bracelets length.
Securely close the rest of the oval jump
rings by rotating the pliers back and forth
until the ends of the jump rings are as
aligned as possible. If desired, use
jump-ringclosing pliers to further
secure the join.
[34] Attach jump rings to the
clasp. Slide a closed oval jump ring onto
an open copper jump ring. Attach the
copper jump ring to a loop on the three-
strand clasp [3]. Close the copper jump
ring. Repeat this for the remaining clasp
loops [4].
[56] Continue the chain pattern. Attach
a copper jump ring to the last oval jump
ring from the previous row and to a new
oval jump ring. Close the copper jump
ring. Repeat this step for all three rows [5].
Continue alternating between copper and
oval jump rings until you have reached
your desired length. Its best to work on all
the rows continually rather than
completing one row at a time. End the
pattern with oval jump rings [6].
[7] Attach the remaining half of the
clasp. Attach a copper jump ring to the
last oval jump ring, then to the
corresponding loop on the remaining half
of the clasp. Make sure your bracelet lies
flat and straight when you do this;
otherwise, the chains could become
twisted. This is the first stopping point in
the bracelets construction.
Part 2
Add round
jump rings
Open the round jump rings. Open all
the round jump rings.
[89] Attach the round jump
rings. Using your dominant hand,
carefully grasp one of the round jump rings
with one pair of pliers. Holding the bracelet
in your nondominant hand, align the first
row of copper jump rings, and use the
pliers to slide the round jump ring through
all three copper jump rings [8]. Carefully
close the jump ring. Working from the
same side of the bracelet, continue to
attach round jump rings to the rest of the
copper rows until you have finished all the
rows [9]. This is the second stopping point
in the bracelets construction.

Part 3
Add oval jump rings
Open the oval jump rings. Open all the
remaining oval jump rings.
[1011] Attach the oval jump rings. Start
on the same side of the bracelet as you did
when you attached the round jump rings.
As with the round jump rings, grasp one
oval jump ring with one pair of pliers and
slide it through the first row of oval jump
rings [10]. Close the jump ring. Continue
this pattern until you have finished all the
rows [11]. Your bracelet is now
complete.
avoid
marring
your jump rings
Beginners may notice that their pliers leave indentations and
scratches on the sides of jump rings as they open and close them.

why does this happen?
The jaws of the pliers are made of metal that is harder than the metal
that the jump rings are made of. When you squeeze the pliers tightly,
you push the jaws of the pliers into the jump rings, leaving marks.
how can I avoid this?
Keep your jump rings smooth by working with them gently. As you
gain more experience opening and closing jump rings, youll
become comfortable exerting the right amount of pressure without
marring the metal.
You can also purchase pliers with softer jaws, such as nylon-jaw
pliers. Many jewelry artists cushion their pliers by wrapping the
jaws with masking tape. In the photos shown, the pliers are
covered with Tool Magic rubber coating. (See Resources, page 92.)
materials
Three-strand clasp with extender chain,
sterling-silver
Jump rings:
Copper: 20-gauge, 5mm round,
5081 rings
Sterling-silver: 16-gauge, 5.3 x 3.2mm
oval, 6199 rings
Sterling-silver: 18-gauge, 2.5mm
round, 1727 rings
tools & supplies
2 pairs of chainnose or bentnose pliers
Jump-ringclosing pliers (optional)
Nylon-jaw pliers (optional)
Tool Magic rubber coating (optional)
10 www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com
Whip up
Start with a mandrel to master this
chain mail pattern in four easy steps.

by Esther Lee
PROJECT
BEGINNER | CHAIN MAIL11

Getting started is the only tricky part
about this chain; once youve established
the pattern, its quick and easy to make.
an Open Round
Chain mail Pattern
T
his chain is pretty enough to wear alone, but its also great to
use as a backdrop for large-bail pendants or large-hole beads.
Once you start the open round pattern, its easy to execute;
the jump rings you need to join are easy to spot and easy to thread,
and your chain will grow quickly. The trick is getting started; round
chains are difficult to handle in the early stages because they can
collapse, and if you drop the chain, it can be difficult to determine
the proper end rings. Luckily, I have a neat trick that simplifies the
early stages of the process. So, you should have a finished chain long
enough for a bracelet in a couple of hours; if youd rather have a
necklace, just keep going!
a
c
b
a
c
b
a
c
b
materials
Sterling silver jump rings:
18-gauge (1.0 mm), 45 mm
(
5
32
3
16-in.) inside diameter
Sterling silver wire: 18-
or 20-gauge (1.0 mm or
0.8 mm), 8 in. (20.3 cm)
End caps: 2
S-hook clasp
toolbox, page 76
Chain mail
additional tools &
supplies
Nylon-reinforced tape
Mandrel: 8 mm (
5
16-in.)
diameter
Jump ring maker (optional)
Wire cutters
Find out where to buy
supplies, page 79
See Safety Basics, page 77

1
2 3
4 5
6 7
Videos & Basics
Check out these bonus
tutorials for fundamental
techniques used to make
this project:
Opening and closing
a jump ring B
Using a jump ring
maker
Making a wrapped loop
B
Making an S-hook clasp
(looped or hammered
ends)

Videos, www.
artjewelrymag.com/
videos

www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com 13

EDITORS NOTE : For this project,
Esther Lee made her own jump
rings, using half-hard wire wound
around a 4 mm (
5
32-in.) mandrel;
due to the spring factor, the
inside diameter (ID) of her
finished jump rings is larger
than the size of the mandrel
she wound them on. If youre
buying premade jump rings,
get jump rings that have an ID
of 4.5 mm or 5 mm.
Secure the starter jump rings. Cut a
piece of -in. (6.5 mm) nylon-reinforced
tape, approximately 1 in. (38 mm) long.
Place the tape sticky-side up on your work
surface. Close three jump rings B , and
place them on the tape so that half of each
ring extends above the tape [1]. Press the
rings firmly to the tape so that they stick.
Wrap the tape around the end of an
8 mm (
5
16-in.) mandrel [2] so that the
exposed ends of the rings extend above
the mandrel.
NOTE: If you have a jump ring maker ,
you can use one of the steel mandrels that
came as part of the set. You can also use a
ballpoint pen or a wooden dowel; I use a
segment I cut from an 8 mm (U.S. size 11)
aluminum knitting needle. The size of your
mandrel is determined by the size of the
rings youre using; three rings should fit
evenly around the mandrels perimeter.
If youre using larger rings, youll need a
larger mandrel.
When youre buying wire for making
jump rings, the choice between
dead-soft and half-hard temper can
be confusing. I always use half-hard
wire to make my jump rings. Because
the wire is harder to begin with, I
dont need to tumble-polish the
finished chain to work-harden it.
Also, because the jump rings made
from half-hard wire are a little stiffer,
theyre less likely to bend out of
shape when Im opening and
closing them.
I use dead-soft wire to make my jump
rings only if Im braiding or weaving
multiple strands of wire. In that case, I
use Argentium sterling silver exclu-
sively; this is still .925 sterling, but its
a new alloy that resists tarnishing.
To add your own personal touch
to prefabricated S-hook clasps, try
using a planishing hammer and a
bench block to flatten the center
part of the S-hook. Or, slide a bead
to the center of the S, and then
flatten the hooks.
you may also like
For more information about
Argentium sterling silver, see
Road Testing Argentium Sterling
(September 2006). If you dont
have that issue, you can buy a
downloadable PDF of the article at
www.artjewelrymag.com/
projects.
online extra
To watch a video tutorial on
how to use a jump ring maker,
visit www.artjewelrymag.
com/videos.
which
temper?
prefab
doesnt
equal dull
you may also like
Check out our review of a
jump ring maker, page 18.
Weave the chain. Open nine jump rings.
Use a ring to connect rings a and b,
another ring to connect rings b and c, and
a third ring to connect rings c and a [3].
Repeat, using a ring to connect the
new rings a and b, another ring to connect
rings b and c, and another ring to connect
rings c and a [4].
Continue adding rings in sets of three
until your chain is the desired length.
Taper the chain ends. One of my favorite
ways to end this chain is with end caps and
an S-hook clasp. To taper the ends from
three to two rings, open four rings. Thread
a ring through rings a and b at the end of
the chain, and close it. Thread another ring
through rings b and c, and close it [5]. If
desired, thread a ring through the two
end rings, and close it; repeat with a
second ring. Repeat to taper the other
end of the chain.
Add the end caps. Cut a 4-in. (10.2 cm)
piece of 18- or 20-gauge (1.0 mm or
0.8 mm) wire. Use roundnose pliers to
make a plain loop at one end of the wire.
Thread the loop through the two jump
rings at the end of your chain, and close
the loop. Slide an end cap onto the wire
[6], and make a wrapped loop B [7].
Repeat to add an end cap to the opposite
end of the chain.
Close the bracelet. Use an S-hook
clasp to connect the two wrapped
loops.
26 Ar t Jewel r y September 2006
A
s soon as I heard of the existence of a firescale-free sterling silver alloy
that was being made in sheet form, I couldnt wait to get my hands on
it and start playing.
Invented in 1996 by Peter Johns, a professor of silversmithing at
Englands Middlesex University, Argentium Sterling Silver, like traditional
sterling silver, is at least 92.5 percent pure silver. But unlike traditional
sterling, which is 7.5 percent copper, Argentium sterling has a small amount of germanium
instead of some of the copper. So how does that change things?
Argentium sterling has other wonderful qualities beyond its freedom from firescale. Its
highly tarnish resistant, its more malleable and ductile than traditional sterling, it can be
precipitation-hardened using a kitchen oven or toaster oven, and it can be easily fused and
welded. Argentium sterling findings can be fired into metal clay, and many people who are
allergic to traditional sterling silver are able to wear Argentium sterling.
Overall, working with Argentium sterling isnt much different from working with
traditional sterling silver. But there are some real differences, so its best to go in knowing
what to expect. The following is a basic guide to working with Argentium sterling in basic
metalworking processes.
reference
metals
t
h
e
n
e
w
s
i
l
v
e
r
sWorking with
the new
Argentium
Sterling Silver
is similar to
working with
traditional
sterling, but
dont assume
theyre the
same, or some
key differences
may trip you up.
by Cynthia Eid
Photos by the author unless
otherwise noted.
ar tj ewel r ymag. com 27 This guide to Argentium Sterling Silver is a further adaptation and update of
a technical article that was first published in SNAG News, the newsletter of
the Society of North American Goldsmiths, and later updated for Rio Grande.
Argentium Sterling Silver is a registered trademark.
Jack Gohn of Lee-
Joyce Designs made
this hand-engraved
cuff bracelet of
Argentium sterling.
53 4 x 11 4 in.
(146 x 32mm).
14 www.Ar t Jewel r yMag. com
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