The Quick Way to

INSTALL RUBBER FLOORING

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With so many options available today, resilient rubber is one of the most popular floor coverings for your home or office. Below are the
essential things youll need to know during your rubber flooring installation. For more detailed information on what to do before, during
and after your rubber flooring installation, see the full Installing Rubber Flooring guide on FindAnyFloor.com.


Rubber flooring is installed one of four ways depending on the
type of rubber flooring you choose:
Glued Down Sheet Rubber Sheet rubber is installed
with full spread adhesive. Some manufacturers may also
approve the use of double-sided flooring tape for certain
applications.
Glued Down Rubber Tiles Rubber tiles are secured to
the subfloor with an epoxy or polyurethane flooring
adhesive.
Interlocking Rubber Tiles Rubber tiles are fit and
locked together (much like a puzzle) to form a loose-lay
floor. Some manufacturers may also approve of using
double-sided flooring tape to secure this type of flooring
to the subfloor.
Dowel Secured Rubber Tiles Rubber tiles are fit
together and secured with dowels to form a loose-lay
floor. Perimeter tiles may be secured with full spread
adhesive if the flooring is laid in an area without
surrounding walls.

You will need most of the tools and materials on the first list
plus anything specific for your installation method.
Broom
Carpenters square
Chalk line
Knee pads
Maski ng or painters tape
Measuring tape
Metal straightedge
Utility knife with extra
blades
Vacuum

Sheet Rubber Installation
100-lb roller
Electric drill (variable
speed)
Felt-tipped pen or pencil
Full spread adhesive or
2 double-sided adhesive
tape
Floor pattern or craft
paper
Gloves
Notched trowel
Paint mixing drill
attachment
Safety goggles
Scissors
Seam sealer kit (optional)
Shears or snips

Glued Down Rubber Tile Installation
100-lb roller
Electric drill (variable
speed)
Felt-tipped pen or pencil
Gloves
Epoxy adhesive or 2
double-sided tape
Notched trowel
Paint mixing attachment
Safety goggles
Seam sealer kit (optional)
Scraper

Interlocking Rubber Tile Installation
2 double-sided adhesive
tape (optional)


Dowel Secured Rubber Tile Installation
Adhesive (full-spread;
optional)
Dowels
Notched trowel (optional)
Rubber mallet or dowel
setting tool
Scrap piece of 2 x 4 or
other tapping block
*This is not an all inclusive list. Your tools and materials may vary
based on your specific installation needs.

Rubber flooring can be installed above concrete, APA
exterior grade plywood, and asphalt subfloors.
Some manufacturers approve installations above existing
flooring as long as it is completely adhered to the
subfloor. However, do not remove any existing flooring if
you find asbestos. Follow all local, state and federal
guidelines when handling and/or disposing of asbestos.
All subfloors and existing flooring must be structurally
sound, level and dry.
Clean all concrete and asphalt slabs prior to your
moisture test and installation to remove anything that may
interfere with the flooring adhesive.
For concrete slabs, perform all moisture tests as directed
by the manufacturer. This may include a Polyethylene,
Calcium Chloride, and ASTM Drilling test. Follow all your
manufacturers recommendations if your subfloor has
excess moisture.
Ensure your subfloor is level and free from all dips,
valleys or imperfections (such as drywall mud, paint
overspray, etc.). Scrape your subfloor clean. Sand down
any high areas. Use latex floor filler to level all low areas.
If desired, you can install 6mm polyethylene sheeting
below a loose-lay installation for additional moisture
protection.
Allow your rubber flooring to acclimatize to your
installation area. This is especially important for sheet
rubber. Follow all the manufacturers recommendations
for room temperature (both before and during the
installation) and acclimatization time.
Always choose an adhesive recommended by your
flooring manufacturer. Conduct an adhesion test prior to
your installation to ensure the adhesive bonds properly to
your flooring and subfloor.
Always prepare and spread flooring adhesives according
to the manufacturers instructions.
Do not install rubber tiles over concrete expansion joints.
Install an expansion plate over the joint and use tiles on
either side.
If desired, undercut door casings in the installation area.
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Remove all molding, if desired. Remove and set all doors
asides, especially if working with sheet rubber. Remove
all toilets if working in a bathroom.
Sweep and/or vacuum your floor before installing your
rubber.
Always install safely using the proper safety equipment.
Follow all manufacturer safety recommendations.

General Tips and Tricks
If using a full spread adhesive, always wear gloves.
Always follow your manufacturers recommendations with
regard to open time if using a full spread adhesive.
Follow all your manufacturers recommendations if
installing your rubber flooring in an exterior area.
Do not store your rubber flooring in direct sunlight.
Always use a sharp knife to ensure you get clean cuts.
Score rubber tiles or sheet rubber then bend at the mark
to break apart.
Always place factory edges to factory edges whenever
possible.
Double-cut sheet rubber to create a custom factory edge
when needed.
Ensure all seams are snug but not tight. When installing
the flooring, overlap two pieces slightly then walk into
place for precise positioning.
Sheet Rubber Tips and Tricks
Pay attention to color matching between rolls. Follow your
manufacturers guides or compare colors yourself to
ensure even color transitions.
Use hook blades to trim rubber flooring in place. These
work with any standard utility knife and can be purchased
at most home improvement stores.
When trimming rubber along walls, use a scrap piece of
wood to create a crease in the rubber along the wall. Cut
along the crease.
Cut vertically from top to bottom when trimming sheet
rubber on outside corners.
Cut V shapes in the sheet rubber when trimming on
inside corners until the rubber lays flat along both walls.
Place heavy objects on the sheet rubber during trimming
and gluing to ensure the material does not shift before it
is secured to the subfloor.
Do not overlap adhesive coats as they may cause
unevenness which will telescope through the flooring.
Leave a gap (equal to the width of the flooring material)
between the sheet rubber and the wall to allow for the
material to stretch over time.
Rubber Tile Tips and Tricks
Use tiles from at least 3 packages at a time to evenly
distribute color variations.
Pay attention to any manufacturer guides that indicate the
direction in which tiles should be installed.
All tiles along the perimeter must be 5-6 in length. If
necessary, cut the last full tile to ensure this minimum
length is met.
Scribe fit tiles to fit along the perimeter of a room or in
custom areas.
Undercut tiles along all walls for a professional looking
installation.
INSTALL SHEET RUBBER
Sheet rubber is installed with full spread adhesive. Some
manufacturers may also approve the use of double-sided
flooring tape for certain applications. Always choose an
appropriate installation method so you do not void your
warranty.
If using adhesive tape to complete your installation, follow all
the steps below. Apply the adhesive tape to the perimeter of
each sheet. At seams, position tape so that one inch of each
sheet is in full contact with the tape.

Use this method when you are working in a small area with few
obstacles that will require only one sheet of rubber flooring.
1. Measure your installation area. Add 2-3 inches to each of
your measurements.
2. Cut out your sheet rubber based on your measurements.
3. Place the rubber in the installation area. Trim away all
excess around walls and obstacles.
4. Roll one half of the rubber flooring back and secure with
masking tape.
5. Apply the adhesive to the subfloor as directed by the
manufacturer.
6. Unroll and lay the rubber into the adhesive. Apply
pressure from the center to the edges. Roll the floor with a
100-lb roller as directed by the manufacturer.
7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 for the other half of the sheet.
8. Re-roll the entire floor as directed by the manufacturer.

Use this method when you are working in a large area with
multiple obstacles and/or seams.
1. For complex rooms, create a pattern of your floor using a
pattern kit (available at most home improvement stores) or
Kraft paper, scissors and tape. Make sure the pattern is
flat on the floor at all times and account for all obstacles.
2. Unroll your pattern on top of your rubber. Ensure there is a
piece of rubber beneath the entire pattern.
3. At each seam, overlap the two pieces of sheet rubber by
at least 1. Tape together with masking tape.
4. Following a metal straight edge, use a utility knife to
double-cut through BOTH pieces of rubber at each seam
to form a custom factory edge. Once cut, align the seam
edges so they are flush then tape securely.
5. Cut the rest of your rubber to fit your pattern. Leave 2-3
around the perimeter.
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6. Once cut, carefully roll up the rubber and take it to the
installation area.
7. Unroll carefully and align correctly with the room. Trim all
edges so they are flush with walls or obstacles. Leave a
slight gap per your manufacturers recommendations.
8. Roll back the sheets of rubber on one side of the room.
Use masking tape to hold in place.
9. Prepare and apply the adhesive to the subfloor as directed
by the manufacturer.
10. Unroll and lay the sheet rubber into the adhesive. Apply
pressure from the center to the edges.
11. Roll the floor with a 100-lb roller.
12. Repeat steps 8 through 11 for the other half of the room.
13. Re-roll the whole floor as recommended by the
manufacturer.
14. Use a seam sealer kit to seal all seams if recommended
by your manufacturer. Follow all the directions provided
with the kit.
15. Let the new rubber cure and bond for 24-72 hours or as
directed by your manufacturer. Do not move anything back
into the room and keep foot traffic to a minimum during
this time.
INSTALL GLUE DOWN RUBBER TILES
Rubber tiles are secured to the subfloor with an epoxy or
polyurethane flooring adhesive.

Glued down rubber tiles are installed in a brick-like pattern to
ensure maximum stability.
1. Snap a chalk line between the center points of each
opposite wall to divide the room into four quadrants.
2. Layout a row of loose rubber tiles in all directions at the
center intersection point. Evaluate the fit to ensure the
minimum tile length along the perimeter is satisfied. If
necessary, move your starting point down to better
accommodate this minimum length.
3. Once satisfied, pick up all guide tiles and set aside.
4. For large rooms, divide the four main quadrants into
smaller areas. You should be able to complete each
section within 30 minutes.
5. Prepare and spread the flooring adhesive according to the
manufacturers instructions.
6. Beginning at the center point, install the first rubber tile so
it aligns with the main two chalk lines. Install tiles in the
rest of that section. Do not install any perimeter tiles.
Fit tiles snugly together.
Tape seams with masking tape if necessary.
Follow the brick pattern for maximum stability.
7. Roll the newly completed section with a 100-lb roller.
8. Repeat steps 5 through 7 for each quadrant until the
whole floor is complete.
9. Re-roll the entire floor as recommended by your
manufacturer.

Once the main part of the floor is complete, install the
perimeter tiles. If access to the perimeter is an issue, install
these tiles after you complete each quadrant or section.
1. Scribe fit tiles for the perimeter in each row.
2. Undercut the edge of each tile closest to the wall. Leave a
slight gap between the wall and the flooring if
recommended by your manufacturer.
3. Dry fit tiles to ensure they fit correctly.
4. Prepare and spread the flooring adhesive according to the
manufacturers instructions.
5. Install all perimeter tiles.
6. Roll the newly installed tiles with a 100-lb roller.
7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for the entire perimeter.
8. Re-roll the entire floor as recommended by your
manufacturer.
9. Use a seam sealer kit to seal all seams if recommended
by your manufacturer. Follow all the directions provided
with the kit.
10. Let the new rubber cure and bond for 24-72 hours or as
directed by your manufacturer. Do not move anything back
into the room and keep foot traffic to a minimum during
this time.
INSTALL INTERLOCKING RUBBER
TILES
Interlocking rubber tiles are fit and locked together (much like a
puzzle) to form a loose-lay floor. Some manufacturers may
also approve the use of double-sided flooring tape to secure
this type of flooring to the subfloor.

Interlocking rubber tiles are installed in-line with each other to
ensure the locking mechanisms work properly.
1. Snap a chalk line between the center points of each
opposite wall to divide the room into four quadrants.
2. Layout a row of loose rubber tiles in all directions at the
center intersection point. Evaluate the fit to ensure the
minimum tile length along the perimeter is satisfied. If
necessary, move your starting point down to better
accommodate this minimum length.
3. Once satisfied, click tiles together within each quadrant.
Stop when you reach the perimeter and need to make a
cut.
4. Install the interlocking tiles in each quadrant.

Once the main part of the floor is complete, install the
perimeter tiles.
1. Scribe fit tiles for the perimeter in each row.
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2. Undercut the edge of each tile closest to the wall. Leave a
slight gap between the wall and the flooring if
recommended by your manufacturer.
3. Fit and lock all perimeter tiles in place for the entire floor.
INSTALL DOWEL SECURED RUBBER
TILES
Rubber tiles are fit together and secured with dowels to form a
loose-lay floor. Perimeter tiles may be secured with full spread
adhesive if the flooring is in an area without surrounding walls.

Dowel secured rubber tiles are installed in-line with each other.
1. Snap a chalk line between the center points of each
opposite wall to divide the room into four quadrants.
2. Layout a row of loose rubber tiles in all directions at the
center intersection point. Evaluate the fit to ensure the
minimum tile length along the perimeter is satisfied. If
necessary, move your starting point down to better
accommodate this minimum length.
3. Once satisfied, pick up all guide tiles and set aside.
4. Beginning at the center point, install the first rubber tile so
it aligns with the main two chalk lines. Insert the dowels
into the first tile. Push the first and second tile together.
Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to ensure a snug fit.
5. Work your way down the first row.
6. On the second row, insert dowels into the first center tile.
Push the first two tiles in each row together then tap with
the mallet.
7. Insert dowels into the side of the first second row tile.
Push the second tile in that row together. Use a mallet to
ensure a snug fit.
8. Gently lift the second tile in the first row and insert downs.
Press the second tile in the second row to the second tile
in the first row. Use a mallet to ensure a snug fit.
9. Continue working your way across each quadrant (minus
the perimeter) until the floor is installed.

Once the main part of the floor is complete, install the
perimeter tiles.
If working in a room with walls, use the same method to
install perimeter tiles as you used to install the entire
floor. (See instructions above.)
If working in a room without supporting walls, use a full
spread adhesive to secure the perimeter tiles. (See
instructions below.)
1. Scribe fit tiles for the perimeter in each row, if necessary.
2. Dry fit tiles to ensure they fit correctly.
3. Prepare and spread the flooring adhesive along the
perimeter according to the manufacturers instructions.
4. Install all perimeter tiles within each quadrant.
5. Roll the newly installed tiles with a 100-lb roller.
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 for the entire perimeter.
7. Re-roll the entire perimeter as recommended by your
manufacturer.
8. Install rubber reducer along the perimeter to eliminate
tripping hazards.
9. Let the new rubber floor cure and bond for 24-72 hours or
as directed by your manufacturer. Do not move anything
back into the room and keep foot traffic to a minimum
during this time.
STAIRS, TRANSITIONS AND TRIM
Rubber stair treads and risers can be installed to provide non-
skid surfaces while specialized rubber reduced can be used to
avoid tripping hazards from high profile rubber flooring.
Installing trim helps put the finishing touches on your room.

Manufactured rubber stair treads and risers are available from
a variety of retailers. For more detailed information about
installing rubber stair treads and risers, see the full Installing
Rubber Flooring guide on FindAnyFloor.com.

There are a limited amount of rubber transitions available. For
low profile rubber flooring, use the same type of transitions as
are used for vinyl or linoleum.
Rubber Reducer Used to transition between high
profile rubber floors (such as 3/8) and lower profile
flooring surfaces such as vinyl or linoleum. Always follow
the manufacturers instructions regarding approved
adhesives.

Install all wall base, shoe base and quarter round trim around
the perimeter of the room, if desired. Do NOT glue the trim to
the rubber flooring. Always glue to the wall and nail at an angle
every 16. Caulk significant gaps between the trim and the
wall.
LEGAL DISCLAIMER AND LIABILITY RELEASE
The instructions, guides, and other information accessible from FindAnyFloor.com are provided for informational purposes only and we
make no guarantees about the completeness, accuracy, or fitness for any particular purpose of any of the information. We accept no
responsibility for how you or anyone else may use the information. We accept no responsibility for any injury, loss, claim, or damage
arising out of or in any way connected with the information presented herein. Individuals should always contact a professional, their
retailer, or the manufacturer for specific instructions and information on a particular type of flooring, proper installation, and care
procedures.