ELEMENTARY

LATHE PRACTICE

Elementary Lathe Practice

AS ADAPTED TO THE TEACHING OF

MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE

IN TECHNICAL SCHOOLS.

BY

T.

J.

INSTRUCTOR

PALMATEER
IN

MACHINE WORK

Leland Stanford Junior University

Copyright 1917,

by T,

J.

Palmateer

FIRST EDITION

1917
Press of Nolts Bros.o^^^^San Jose, California

j^'j

CI.A455285

JAN 25 1917

PREFACE
The object of this instruction book is to help beginners to
acquire some familiarity with the more common lathe operations
in the shortest practicable period of time. For this purpose three
exercises have been designed with the view of giving the student

maximum amount

amount of time
The repetition of operations
has therefore been avoided wherever it was considered advisable
and the time lost in simply cutting off meta] has been reduced as
the

of information in the small

usually allowed for this purpose.

much

as possible.

It is

assumed that beginners

will receive oral instruction

on

the manipulation of the lathe, as in shifting the belt, the feed control, etc.

It will also

be necessary for the instructor to give a

practical demonstration of most of the operations.

The lathe speeds for the different operations as indicated in

book are only approximately correct since the actual cutting
speed of the tool in feet per minute varies with the size and kind
of lathe used. The instructor is expected to designate the proper

this

speeds although the belt connections given herein will generally

be close enough for beginners.

In case

it is

considered advisable to devote to the elementary

would be necessary to complete the

three exercises presented herein, very good results can be obtained if the student will read all of the instructions carefully and
then do only Exercise No. 1 and piece B of Exercise No. 3.
The instructions here given are not intended as fixed rules for
it is recognized that some of the operations may be done by other
methods with equally good results.

lathe operations less time than

T. J.

Stanford University, Cal.

January 1917.

PKLMATEER.

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

EXERCISE No. 1
FIT SHAFT TO COLLAR RUNNING FIT
Machine Steel

Cut off with a power hack-saw a piece of steel 6 1/16 inches

long from a bar 1 inch in diameter. This will allow 1/16 of an
inch for finishing the ends and 3/16 of an inch for turning the
diameter.

An

experienced lathe operator would use a piece of steel 7/8

of an inch in diameter, but for beginners it is better to use larger
stock to allow for practice turning.

CENTERING
Center both ends in the centering machine.
center in this shaft should be from

The

size of the

3/16 to 1/4 of an inch in

Larger work should have deeper centers.

diameter.

,'Driil

F=\

c^

and Countersink

cSii

L^L
Fig. 1

Steady Rest

123

M-

<C

(^:ffl

a:

ff
Fig.

um
ng.3

"W

J(o)

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

If a centering

machine

not available, the

is

work may be

cen-

tered by first locating the center with a pair of dividers and center punch and then using a combination drill and countersink in
the lathe as

hand
is

to

shown

prevent

in Fig.

As

from turning.

it

necessary to center

it

work

In this case the

1.

this

work

is

is

held by

to be turned, it

only approximately true.

Accurate Centering. When the work is to be centered accurately, it may be done by putting one end in the lathe chuck and
the other in a steady rest. A pointed tool is then used in the tool

shown in Fig. 2. The point of this tool has an angle of 60

degrees, the same as the lathe centers, and is ground like a flat

post as

drill so that it cuts

After the shaft

on both
is

sides.

centered with this

tool, a

center hole about

This is done by
1/8 of an inch in diameter should be drilled.
holding the drill in the tail-stock of tne lathe with a drill-chuck,
as

shown

in Fig. 3.

The object

of this center hole

is

to give the

center of the shaft a bearing on the lathe center a short distance

back from the point, as at

PLACING
a

in Fig. 4.

WORK

IN

LATHE

The work is made to rotate on the lathe centers by fastening

lathe dog to the shaft at the head-stock end, as shown at A in
Head Stock

Tail

Srock

Fig. 5

Fig.

5.

The

adjusted so that the shaft will rotate

freely, yet be tight enough to allow no slack, or lost motion. Since
tail-stock center

is

the shaft rotates on this center,

it

should be kept well lubricated

by using machine oil, or a mixture of graphite and oil.

To get the best results in turning this sort of work, it is necessary to face both ends before turning and to rough turn the whole
piece to within about 0.03, or 0.04 of an inch of the finished size

before any part of

However, it is not always necessary to do this. The object of first rough turning the shaft all
over is to remove the internal strains of the steel and to wear the
centers down to a good bearing before any flushing cuts are
it is

finished.

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

The purpose of facing the ends
and smooth.

taken.
true,

to get

is

them square,

or

FINISHING END OP SHAFT

To face the ends, use a regular turning tool starting to cut
from the outside and feeding by hand towards the center with the
cross feed.
Such a tool will leave a ridge near the center, as

shown

in Fig.

This ridge

6.

is

cutting tool, as shov^^n in Fig.

cut off with a sharp pointed, side

7,

which

is

also

used for taking the

When

finishing cut across the whole end of the bar.

taking this

some other lubricant, should be used.

After the finishing cut has been taken, any small ridge, or fin
that remains at the edge of the center is removed by slightly
changing the angle of the tool in the tool post and allowing about
1/64 of an inch play between the centers. Having the work loose
finishing cut, lard

like this

when

oil,

or

the lathe

running, allows the extreme point of

is

the side tool to extend beyond the edge of the center and cut a

smooth end.
The lathe should run slow for the finishing cut and fast when
the regular turning tool

is

used.

TURNING THE SHAFT

The

first,

tool, or bit,

or roughing cut,

is

taken with

fastened in a tool holder.

The

high speed steel

tool holder

is

in the tool post of the lathe so that the point of the tool

little

above, the center, or axis, of the lathe, as in Fig.

If the point of the bit

is

too high,

shaft rotates, the tool will not cut at

it is

all.

set

is at,

or

8.

easy to see that, as the

Fig. 9. In case the tool

below the center, the cutting action

turning tools are never set as in Fig. 10.
is

clamped

is

very poor so that

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

Fig.

Tig.

ri9

Toof

Speed of the Lathe.

may

Fig 10

If

Turning

belt

In

taking the heavy roughing cuts, the

be placed on the second largest step of the cone, while

for the finishing cuts the lathe should run a little faster, say with

the belt in the next smaller step.

Grinding Turning Tool. The front, or point, and the sides of

the tool are ground at an angle, which is called the clearance. If
the tool has too

much

has too

little

clearance,

it

will not cut freely, while if

clearance, the point will be so thin that

become dull quickly.

The top of the tool is also ground

it

will

it

break

off or

the rake.

If the tool

has too

little

at an angle.

rake,

it

This

is

called

will not cut freely

and

has too much, the edge will soon break down.

It requires some practice for a beginner to learn the proper
rake and clearance that should be given to a tool. Fig. 11 shows

if it

a tool

ground with clearance and rake that

will give

very good

results.

Direction Tool Should Travel. The depth of the first cut

should be about 1/16 of an inch and the travel of the tool should
always be from the tail-stock end towards the head-stock. If the
travel

is

in the opposite direction, the pressure

center

is

increased, causing

it

on the tail-stock

to heat quickly.

The length of the cut should be as great as possible without

the lathe dog striking the tool, or cross-rest.
Adjusting the Lathe to Turn Straight. After the first cut,
the work should be calipered and if it is not the same diameter

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

at both ends the tail-stock should be adjusted so that the lathe
will turn straight.

The

adjustment is made by loosening the main

and one of the screws C and then tightening the

tail-stock

clamping nut B
other screw C on the opposite side of the

tail-stock, Fig. 5.

If the shaft is larger at the tail-stock end, the tail-stock

be

moved towards

should

the front of the lathe one half the difference

between the diameters of the shaft at the two ends.

In doing close work, the tail-stock should be adjusted
closely as possible, but in this case if

say 0.002 or 0.003 of an inch,

it is

off center only a

will be close

it

as

little,

enough providing

it

turned larger at the head-stock end.

If the tail-stock is set so that the shaft is turned larger at the tailstock end, the shaft will be too small at the other end after the
is

set so that the shaft will be

finishing cut

taken.

is

After the

roughing cut is taken

and the lathe has been adjusted so that it turns approximately
stra ght, the end of the shaft is turned for about Vi of an inch so
that it w 11 just fit the hole in the collar, shown in the drawing
Fitting Shaft to the Collar.

of Exercise

dameter

To measure

1.

this

first set the inside calipers to the

of the hole in the collar, then set ^he outside calipers to

the inside calipers and caliper the shaft as accurately as possible.

For a final test of this diameter, remove the work from the lathe

and try it with the collar itself.

The advantage of turning but

end of the
shaft is this if the finishing cut were set too deep, only 1/4 of an
inch of the shaft would be too small, while if this cut were taken
the whole length, the entire shaft would be too small.
After the shaft has been turned at the end so that it fits the
i/4

of an inch at the

should be turned a little larger, say

0.002 or 0.003 of an inch, in diameter. This will leave enough to

collar, the rest of the shaft

finish with a
Filing.
it is

also

file.

The object of filing

found

to be

much

is

to take out the tool

easier to

make

a close fit

marks, but

by

filing off

the last 0.002 or 0.003 of an inch than to take so small a cut with
a tool. The amount of allowance for filing depends upon the

character of the finishing cut. Since the less filing required the
better, the finishing cut should be made as smooth as possible.
The tool used for the roughing cut may also be used for finusually necessary to re-sharpen it. After it is reset in the tool post, the point should be flattened a little wider
ishing, but

it is

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

10

than the pitch of the feed, say about 1/32 of an inch, and parallel
with the work. This is done with an oilstone.

For

filing

work on

called a lathe, or mill

The stroke

a lathe, a single cut file

is

used.

This

is

file.

of the file should

be slow, steady,

and straight

The lathe should run a little faster for filing

than for turning, the object being to have the work make several
across the shaft.

revolutions for a single stroke of the

file.
If the lathe runs too
slow and the stroke of the file is too fast, the shaft, instead of
be-Ug filed round, will have a series of flat places on the surface.
After the work is finished as close to the dog as possible, re-

verse

it

in the lathe

and

finish that part

where the dog was

fast-

ened.

EXEECISE

llThrda perl"

2,

13Thrds per 1"RH

R.M.

The finished shaft

No.

No.

in

Exercise No. 1

may

be used for Exercise

2.

Place the shaft in the bench vise and with a rule and scriber
lay off the dimensions: 1% in., 3 in., and 1% in. Then center

punch the

lines just

deep enough so that they can be easily seen

when

the work is in the lathe.

Turn the large end first.

When

necessary to turn a fixed distance, or to a line as

in this case, it is well to disconnect the feed when the tool is within about 1/8 of an inch from the end of the cut and to feed the
it is

tool the rest of the distance

may

travel farther than

by hand.

it is

intended

If this is

not done, the tool

to.

turn the portions to be threaded a little under

rather than over size. For if they are over size, the threads will
not fit the standard size nut, but if under size the threads do not
It is better to

need to be cut so deep in order to fit the nut.

For measuring the diameters of this piece

set the calipers, as

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

11

accurately as possible by measuring from the end of the rule, as

shown

in Fig. 12.

ng.l3

Cutting Recess. The surface at the end as well as the recesses

between the threads and the taper are cut with a square-nose, or
cutting-off tool. Fig. 13.

This tool shoull have a sharp smooth edge, the point being set
level with the center of the lathe.

To produce a smooth finished surface lard oil should be used

with a slow feed and lathe speed.
After the end is turned to size, reverse the work in the lathe
and turn the other end and the taper before cutting the threads.

Turning Taper. The drawing calls for a taper of 1 inch per

This is cut by using a taper attachment, or by setting the
foot.
As most lathes are not provided with a
tail stock off center.
taper attachment, the latter method will be used.
If the work was 12 inches long, the tail stock would be moved
It being
inch to turn a taper of 1 inch per foot.
half
that
only 6 inches long, the tail stock is set off center but

off center

i/^

amount, or 14 inch.
Before taking the finishing
that the lathe

is

cut, caliper

both ends to prove

cutting the correct taper.

THREAD CUTTING
The threads are cut

to fit

1/2

inch and 5/8 inch nuts having

United States Standard threads. These threads are flattened at

the top and bottom to the amount of 1/8 of the pitch instead of
being sharp pointed as in the case of Standard V-threads.

The pitch of the thread

from the center

of one thread to the center of the one adjoining. On the end of
the exercise having 13 threads per inch the pitch is 1/13 of an
inch so that the width of the flat at the top and bottom of this
Pitch.

is

the distance

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

12

thread should be 1/8 of 1/13 of an inch, or about .009 of an inch.

Lead.

The

lead of the thread

is

a nut on

the distance

the

screw will travel in making one complete turn. For single threads
the pitch and lead are the same, but for double threads the lead
is

twice the pitch.

Grinding Tool. The sides of U. S. S. threads form an angle of

60 degrees. To cut this thread in a lathe, a tool the same shape as
the threads is used. A gauge for grinding this tool accurately is

shown

in Fig. 14.

thread gauge is not available, the tool can be

ground with the aid of a regular thread and center gauge, shown
in Fig. 15. With such a gauge the angle can be ground accurately, but it will be necessary to measure the flat point with a rule.
If a U. S. S.

The top

of the tool should be

ground

so that

it

will be approx-

imately in a horizontal plane when set in the lathe.

Where the thread to be cut is as fine as 13 per inch the flat

extreme point
can be oil-stoned off instead of being taken off with the grinding
wheel. The flat point should never be wider than the standard
size, but if it is a little too narrow it will make very little difference in ordinary lathe work.

surface at the point of the tool

Setting Tool.

To

is

so small that the

set the tool so that

both sides of the thread

have the same angle, the thread gauge is used as shown in

Fig. 16. The tool should be set on a level with the center of the
will

lathe.

How

Lathe

is

Geared.

To

cut 13 threads per inch the

work

must make 13 revolutions while the carriage, which carries the

For this purpose the lathe spindle is contool, travels one inch.

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

13

nected to the lead screw with the proper size gears and the lead
screw to the carriage by a split nut. This split nut is back of the
carriage apron and

is

opened and closed by the lever E, Fig.

17.

o w

the gearscrew of the lathe has 6 threads per inch,

the same ratio as 6 is to
ing to cut 13 threads per inch must have
If the lead

13

To cut 16 threads the

It is

ratio

would be

6 to 16.

gears for the different

not necessary to figure the size of

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

14
threads as

lathes are provided with an index plate that desig-

all

nates the proper size gears to be placed on the stud

B and

screw

C, Fig. 17, for the desired thread.

To Set Change Gear. To change these gears, first loosen the

nuts holding the stud and screw gears B and C. Next loosen thfe
nut G. ThiS will allow the intermediate gear to drop away from
the stud gear B. Then loosen the nut H so that the intermediate
gear can be drawn back away from the gear on the lead screw C.

When

the gears are put together, they should be set so that

there will be a
gears.

If

little slack,

or lost motion, between the different

they are set too close together, they will

deal of noise

when running and

there

is

also

make

a great

danger of breaking

the teeth.

While
the gears

all
is

lathes are not designed alike the

much

very

method

of

changing

the same on all machines except those hav-

With

having such a device, instead of changing the gears on the stud and screw the same
result is obtained by shifting a combination of levers.
ing the quick change-gear device.

Why

a lathe

Feed Should Be Disconnected.

The

mechanism that

when cutting threads is

feed when doing plain turning.

controls the feed, or travel, of the tool

independent of that used for the

The two feeds usually run at different speeds so that if they are
both in action at the same time the gears in the carriage will
break. For this reason all lathes are provided with some means
of disconnecting the feed used for plain turning when cutting
threads.

To disconnect the feed on the lathe shown in Fig. 17, move the
lever J to the central, or neutral, position. This should always
be done before starting to cut the threads.

Speed of Lathe.

The

run slower for cutting

With most lathes if the belt is

lathe should

threads than for plain turning.

on the largest step of the cone

it

will give about the right speed

for cutting the threads in this exercise.

The object of running the lathe slow is to give the operator

time to draw back the tool at the end of the cut and to obtain a
smoother

cut.

If the

speed of the lathe

is

too fast, the cutting

action will be so quick that the tool, instead of cutting clean

and

smooth, will tear out the metal leaving a rough surface.

The slower the lathe runs the easier it is to cut the threads,
but it will also take longer to do the job. It therefore requires

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

practical experience to determine

tiie

^5

proper speed to be used for

cutting the different size threads.

Chamfering. After the lathe and tool are properly set, chamfer off the sharp corners where the threads begin and end with
the side of the thread tool. The depth of this cut should be about
the same as that of the threads when finished. Tf the corners are
not chamfered, the threads, when cut, will form a very thin edge,

or

the ends.

fin, at

Use of Adjustable Stop. To regulate the depth of each cut

an adjustable stop is used as shown at K. First move the tool so
that the point just touches the work, then adjust the screw on
the attachment K so that the cross-rest will not go in any farther.
Now move the carriage by hand until the point of the tool is a
little past the tail-stock end of the work
close the split nut on
the lead screw with the lever E and turn the screw on the attachment K so that the tool can be moved in just enough to take
;

a very light cut.

Start the lathe and

cut back
tool

is

it

when

the tool has reached the end of the

out and reverse the lathe.

By

reversing the lathe the

returned to the starting po-nt without disconnecting any

The object of drawing the tool back is to prevent

of the gearing.

from dragging on the work during its return.

The tool will never travel over the same path on the reverse
as on the forward movement of the lathe on account of the slack,

it

or lost motion, in the gears.

taken to prove that the lathe is properly

geared, so the work should be measured with a rule, or screw
p^tch gauge.
Adjust the screw at K until the tool can be moved in deeper
for the next cut and repeat the operation until the thread is
nearly finished. Then the tool should be reset so that it will cut
This first cut

is

on only one side at a time.

Finishing Side of Thread.

When

roughing out the threads,

the tool cuts on both sides of the po.nt since

it is

fed straight into

smooth
This is done by rapping the end
if the tool cuts on one side only.
of the tool holder so that it is turned in the tool post just enough
the work.

to

It is

much

easier, though, to finish the threads

change the position of the point of the

an inch.
To prove that the tool

is

set over the

tool about .01, or .02 of

proper amount, turn the

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

IQ

hand

lathe forward by

few revolutions,

or lost, motion in the gears, then

move

to take out all the slack,

the tool into the groove of

The

the thread until one side just touches the side of the thread.

o^her side of the tool should then be about

away from the

.01,

or .02 of an inch

side of the thread.

After the tool

is

properly adjusted, set the stop K.

The

tool

then drawn back and the lathe reversed until the tool is at the
end of the work ready for a cut. It usually requires several fin-

is

ishing cuts to take out all the rough

marks

left

by the roughing

cuts.

When

this side of the

thread

is

finished, the other side

is fin-

ished in the same manner.

provided with a compound rest, a somewhat

different procedure is usually followed since the rest can be set
at an angle of 30 degrees with the work, as in Fig. 18.
In this case the tool is moved in by turning the small handcrank
until the side at
has been cut to the proper depth.
While making these first cuts, the stop K is merely used to bring
the cross-rest to the same position each time.
The tool is then
drawn back slightly with the hand-crank
and the stop K adjusted so that the tool can be moved straight in by means of the
hand-crank Q. This will finish the other side of the thread at P.
To determine when the thread is cut to the proper size the
work is removed from the lathe and tested with a standard nut
having U. S. S. threads.
After the threads are cut on this end of the exercise, it is reversed in the lathe and the other end threaded in a similar manIf the lathe is

ner.

To prevent the screw of the dog from marring the portion

already threaded two nuts should be screwed on and the dog fastened to the nuts.

How to Reset the

Tool.

^When cutting threads of this

size

and

becomes dull from taking the heavy roughthen necessary to resharpen it before taking the

larger, the tool usually

ing cuts.

It is

fine finishing cuts.

To reset the tool in the lathe first get the angles correct, as
shown in Fig. 16. Then revolve the lathe forward by hand to
take up the slack in the gears and move the tool in close to the
threads.

If the tool is in a position so that it will cut too

off one side of the thread,

it

may

reversing gears with the lever

much

be changed by disengaging the

and turning the lathe hy hand.

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

17

When

the tool is in the proper position relative to the groove of

the thread, the reverse gear lever R is reset.
In a case where the tool is off the desired position only a very-

may

be corrected by the rapping process.

If the lathe has a compound rest the tool may be brought to
the correct position by turning the hand-crank M.
It would be well for beginners to practice thread cutting on a
little, it

piece of scrap steel before trying to cut

EXERCISE

No.

them on the

exercise.

3.

CAST IRON FINISHED ALL OVER.

Sequence of Operations
1.

2.
3.

4.

Finish the inside of Piece A.

and Ream the hole in Piece B.

Mount B on mandrel and finish outside.
Screw A on B and finish the outside of A.
Drill

Piece A.
10

:2

Thrds per

l"

U.S.S.

-4^f
Fig. 19

Rough Casting

Fig 20
Finished Casting

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

18

USE OF 4-JAW CHUCK.

To machine the inside of piece A it is necessary to hold it in
the lathe by means of an independent four- jaw chuck, as shown
in Fig. 21. Work of this kind is usually chucked so that the out-

an inch of running true.

chucking
work
is as follows
the
The process of

side surfaces will be within 1/32 of

Centering Work in the Chuck. Place the work in the chuck

and adjust the jaws until they are all at approximately equal
distances from the circles on the face of the chuck. Then put a
cutting-off tool loosely in the tool post and move it close to the
work and as near as possible to the end of the chuck jaws. Revolve the lathe by hand to prove if the work is centered. If it is
not centered to within 1/32 of an inch, readjust the jaws until
is.

Now move

the cutting-off tool to the end of the

it

work and

turn the lathe by hand. If the end runs out of true, rap
hammer at such points as will correct its position.

it

with a

Advantage of Proper Chucking. Fig. 21 shows the work held

by the middle step of the cone. One reason for holding it in this
way is to permit the rough turning of the larger step while in
the chuck. If the work were held by the small end, it would be
apt to work loose when taking the heavy roughing cuts on account
of the distance that the work projects out and the small diameter
on which the chuck grips compared with that of the large end
which is to be turned.

ROUGH TURNING AND BORING.

After the work has been properly chucked, rough turn the
end and the largest diameter to within 1/32 of an inch of the finished

size.

All cast iron has a hard surface, or scale, from 1/64 to 1/32
of an inch deep so that

it

is

necessary to run the lathe slower

for the first cut than for those

made

after the scale has been re-

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

moved.
enough

In taking

this first cut the

tool should be set

permit the point to cut under the

to

Speed of Lathe.

19

deep

scale.

The speed of the lathe in taking the roughof this size should be about right if the belt is on
the smallest step of the cone and the back gears are used. After
ing cut on

work

removed, the lathe may be run faster.

A beginner will require experience before being able to determine the proper speeds and feeds for the diffrent kinds of
lathe work.
the scale

is

Advantage of Roughing Inside.As the

inside of piece

must

the outside of the piece B, the 1 1/8 inch hole, the threads,
and the taper must be machine true with each other, or else
will
fit

not

fit

the

work moved

into

properly.
in the

Now

if

the taper should be finished and

chuck before the threads and the

1 1/8
inch hole are finished, they would not be true with each other.
For this reason it would be well to rough bore the inside to within
1/32 of an inch of the finished size before any of these three parts

are finished.

Roughing
ing tool.

Inside.

Set the

To rough bore the taper use a regular turn-

compound

rest to the correct angle

and feed the

tool in at that angle.

provided with a compound rest, the taper

may be rough bored by turning both feeds by hand and following
the cored surface as closely as possible.
The cored hole in the rough casting, Fig. 19, is 15/16 of an
inch in diameter which allows 3/16 of an inch for finishing the
1 1/8 inch hole and 5/16 for the portion where the threads are to
be cut.
Use of Flat Drill. To rough bore the hole a 1 1/16 flat, or
lathe, drill is used as shown in Fig. 21. The holder A is clamped
in the tool post so that the slot in it will hold the drill at the center of the lathe. If the drill is held above or below the center, the
hole will be drilled larger than the drill. To prove that the slot
If the lathe is not

move it close to
properly set, move it as

in the holder is at the center,

the tail-stock center.

'After the holder

work as
by turning the hand

possible

is

and feed the

crank on the

drill into the exercise

close to the

tail-stock.

This drill removes the hard surface, or scale, and also trues
up, or centers, the hole to within 1/64, or 1/32 of an inch.

Now

enlarge the portion of the hole where the threads are to be cut

with a

3/16

drill.

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

20

To determine when this drill has been fed in far enough, mark
on the drill with a piece of chalk the distance from the end of the
By sighting
work to the point where the recess is to be cut.
across the end of the work the operator can then see when the
drill

has been fed in the proper distance.

Use of Boring Bar. To cut the square shoulder where the

threads begin and the recess where they end, use a tool and boring
bar, as shown in Fig. 22, held in the tool post. The width of this

Fig.

22

TI

5/32 of an inch so that it will be necessary to take two cuts

Such a narrow tool is used beto make the recess Wide enough.

tool

is

cause

it is

less liable to chatter.

This tool

is

and

ground with clearance

at the sides as well as at

should also be noticed that it is wider at the cutting edge than back close to the boring bar. This is done so that
when the tool is fed into the work there will be little, or no chance

the front

of

its

it

binding on the side.

To obtain the correct setting for the tool, move the boring bar
into the hole and bring it up close to one side. The tool should
then be adjusted until

its

cutting edge

is

parallel to the elements

of this surface.

The work is now all roughed out so that it makes very

difference which of the three fitting parts is finished first.

little

FINISHING INSIDE
The

1/8 inch hole has been drilled with a 1 1/16 inch lathe
drill, but as such a tool cannot be relied upon to drill true to center, or size, it is necessary to turn it out with a boring tool. With
1

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

this tool the hole

can be bored true

inch of the finished

to center

and within

21
.01 of

an

size.

The boring bar used

in this case

is

the

same as shown

in Fig.

but the cutter has a rounded point and is similar to the tool
used for outside turning except that it is ground with less clear22,

ance.

To insure accuracy and conserve time, the hole is then finished

with a shell reamer held in the lathe as shown in Fig. 23.

Reaming the

Hole.

Before

starting the reamer, the hole

should be bored at the end, for a distance of about 1/8 of an inch,
to the size which will just permit the reamer to enter. This diameter must be calipered very carefully and should be tested with

the reamer

The

rest of the hole is then bored about .01 of

diameter to allow enough material for finishing with the reamer. Since the reamer used in this case cuts on
itself.

an inch smaller

in

the sides as well as on the end, the hole must be bored true to center in order to be

reamed

true.

If the reamer has a tapered shank, it is held in the lathe by a

square shank socket and wrench, as shown in Fig. 23, and is fed
into the work by turning the hand-crank on the tail-stock.

In case the reamer has a straight shank,

Fig. 24.

Here a dog

is

it is

held as shown in

fastened to the end of the reamer and pre-

vented from turning by a tool clamped at an angle in the toolpost. The end of the tool presses against the dog near the shank
of the reamer so that as the reamer is fed into the work the carThis causes the tool
riage of the lathe is forced along with it.

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

22

end of the reamer against the center of the tail-stock.

When reaming work in a lathe, if the tail-stock is off center
the hole will be reamed too large at the front end.
to hold the

Accurate Boring with Boring Bar.

a boring bar,

if all

In turning out holes with

the cuts are started from one end, that end will

reamed,
the reamer will correct this, but if the hole is to be finished with
the boring bar It will be necessary to bore the hole from both ends.
Th s is done by reversing the feed of the carriage.
be bored larger than the other.

Speed of Lathe.

In case the hole

is

to be

The speed of the lathe for reaming should be

than when using the boring bar. If the belt is on the second smallest step of the cone with the back gears in, the lathe
Lhould ha\e about the right speed for reaming. When using the
boring bar. the belt should be on the largest step of the cone without the back gear.
slow^er

INSIDE THREADING
The inside threads are cut in very much the same manner as
The cutting tool is held in the boring bar and,
like all boring tools, is ground with less clearance than tools used
the outside ones.

for outside work.

To regulate the depth

of each cut, the screw in the adjustable

placed between the stop and the cross-rest. Then by turning the screws in after a cut has been taken the cross-rest can be
draw^n back to permit a deeper cut with the tool.

stop

is

Cause of Threads Breaking. When cutting threads in cast

iron, they will break if the roughing cuts are too heavy and are
liable to if they are cut to a sharp point.
Another cause for the
breaking of cast iron threads is the use of a dull tool, or one wdth
too little clearance.

Finishing Threads.

As

a general rule cast iron

without using a lubricant, but in finishing threads a

will aid in producing a smooth finish.

is

machined

little

lard

oil

FINISHING ENDS
The end

of the

work may be

finished by taking a very light

cut with the turning tool and then scraping

it

with a lathe scrap-

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

er, as

is

shown

clamped

in Fig. 25.

To provide a

in the tool-post

and

23

rest for the scraper a tool

as close as possible to the surface

being scraped.

scraper

is

usually

made from an

the two sides and with a

little

old

file

ground smooth on

clearance at the end.

FINISHING TAPER
To

finish the taper, set the

compound

an angle of 30
Such a rest is normally at
right angles with the lathe axis so that it must be turned through
60 degrees to cut the 30 degree angle.
A regular turning tool
may be used to finish this angle, but it should be set so that the
straight side will be nearly parallel with the tapered surface.
rest at

degrees with the axis of the lathe.

If the lathe

is

not provided with a compound

rest,

the angle

may

be cut with the side of a tool set at the proper angle. To set
this tool, use the thread and center gauge, as shown in Pig. 26.

any other than 30, or 60 degrees,

the tool with a bevel and bevel protractor.

In case the angle

necessary to set

is

it

is

After the taper has been cut, it may be finished smooth by

scraping with a lathe scraper in very much the same manner as
shown in Fig. 25. The tool that is used as a rest is set in as close
as possible to the taper.

If this rest

is

too far

away from

the sur-

face being finished, the scraper will chatter leaving a rough surface.

24

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

Piece B.

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

25

dr Jl, bore

it out with a small boring tool for about 1/8 of an inch

from the end to the diameter that will just fit over the reamer
and insure its starting true. Ream the hole with the reamer held
in the same manner as the twist drill in Fig. 28.

Speed of Lathe.

The

run slower for reaming

than for drilling.
The speed will be about right for this size
reamer if the belt is on the largest step of the cone without the
back gears being used.
The speed for the drill may be much
With a high-speed steel drill, the belt can be run on the
faster.
second smallest step of the cone. If the drill is made of carbon
steel, a slower speed should be used.
lathe should

Advantage of Rose Reamer.

In drilling long holes like this,

very apt to get off center a little as it is fed deeper into
the work, even though it may have been started dead true.
the drill

is

The reamer used in this case is called a rose reamer, or rose

bit. and cuts on the end only.
For this reason, if the hole is approximately true, say within 1/64 of an inch, it will ream the hole
straight and true to size if it is once started true.

FINISHING CORNER
bored and reamed, the work may be finished
at the end by using a tool ground like a threading tool, but having an angle at the point a little less than 90 degrees, as in Fig.
After the hole

is

29.

The

boss, or hub,

which

is 1

8/8 inches

in

diameter,

is

finished

work,
with one cutting edge
the point being a trifle deeper than the rest. This will insure the
full depth of cut for the entire length and also a good sharp corner. The direction of feed for this tool should be from the end
of this tool set nearly parallel to the

and towards the square corner or shoulder.

posite direction the tool

This tool

is

is

Tf it is fed in the op-

apt to chatter.

also used to finish the end, but

it is

turned a

little

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

26

in the tool-post so that the other cutting

edge is nearly parallel

After using this tool, the work may be
finished smoother by scraping the ends, as in Fig. 25, and by filing
to the surface to be cut.

the boss, or hub.

USE OF MANDREL, OR ARBOR

Before this piece can be finished on the outside, it must be
forced on a mandrel, or arbor, and placed in the lathe, as shown
in Fig. 30.

Most commercial shops are provided with hardened

mandrels for
be made from soft
steel

but

this purpose,

if

one

steel in the following

is

not available

it

can

manner:

Making Mandrel. Cut off a piece of steel of suitable length,

say 6 inches, and rough turn it to within 1/32 of an inch of the
Then turn

jdiameter of the hole.

it

at the

end for a distance of

about 1/8 of an inch to the size that will just fit the hole. The
rest of the distance is now turned .002, or .003 of an inch larger
and filed for about 3 inches until it will just fit the hole.
The
next 2 inches are filed with a slight taper so that when the mandrel

is

pressed into the hole

casting while

t is

forced, or driving

When making

will fit tight

it

be^ng turned.

enough

This kind of a

to hold the

fit is

called a

fit.

such a mandrel,

portion to which the dog

is

it is

not necessary to turn that

fastened.

Mounting Work on Mandrel.

should be oiled to prevent

Before pressing the mandrel

in,

from being marred, or scored.

Mandrels are usually forced in with a mandrel press, but if one
is not available, they may be driven in with a hammer.
When
this method is used, a piece of lead, or some other soft material,
must be held on the end of the mandrel to keep the hammer from
marring the center.
it

it

FINISHING OUTSIDE OF PIECE B TO FIT A

This casting

is

rough turned

finished size before any part of

is

then turned until

it fits

an inch of the
The 1 1/8 inch end

to within 1/32 of

it is

finished

the corresponding part of the hole in

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

piece

and yet not

as closely as possible

This kind of a

be freely rotated.

fit is

27

cannot
called a close running fit.
so tight that

it

Cutting Threads. The portion to be threaded should be

turned a little smaller than the diameter at the bottom of the
threads in piece A. This size is measured by means of the inside
spring-thread calipers.
There is no recess, or groove, cut at the end of this thread so
that

if

the threading tool

is

allowed to travel farther than the end

of the preceding cut. either the point of the tool or the threads

may

To prevent

stopped when the tool is

within a half a thread of the end and the cut finished by turning
the lathe by hand.
In this way the lathe is kept under control
break.

and the

tool

may

be

this,

the lathe

is

drawn back when

it

reaches the end of the

Experienced lathe operators do not, as a rule,

turn the lathe by hand, but control the lathe entirely by the
preceding

cut.

shipper.

The speed

of the lathe for cutting

right for beginners

cone and the back

if

the belt

g^^p.rs

is

are thrown

regular turning

they

may

tool.

in.

The

30 degree angle

rest to the correct angle

may

be

and using

In case the tool leaves a few tool marks,

be removed by f.ling.

If the lathe is

may

compound

thread will be about

on the second smallest step of the

Finishing' the Angle, or Taper.

cut by setting the

this

not provided with a

compound

rest, this

angle

be cut by setting a square-nose tool, as in Fig. 31, with the

aid of a thread gauge.

Any

other angle would have to be set

with a bevel and bevel protractor.

This tool is not as wide as the surface to be cut because one
that will cut the full width is very liable to chatter. It is therefore better to make several cuts with a narrow tool. The surface

can then be finished smooth by

The

closeness of the

fit

filing.

of this taper with that in

can be

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

2g

tested by rubbing black paint, which consists of

lamp black and

When B is screwed into A,

on the tapered surface in A.
marks will be made on B indicating the high spots. If these are
not too high, they may be removed by filing.
oil,

FINISHING OUTSIDE OF PIECE

Piece

A may now

be screwed on

B and

the

A.
outside

rough

turned to within 1/32 of an inch of the finished size.

The ends of the different steps are finished to the proper
length with the tool shown in Fig. 29. This same tool can then be
used to turn the different diameters to within 0.002 or 0.003 of an
These steps are brought to the final
inch of the required size.
size

by

filing.

Filing.

The

file

for this

work should be

less

than

1 inch

in

wider than the steps, a beginner will usually file

the portion at the end of each step smaller in diameter than that
which is close to the square corners.
The different diameters may be measured accurately with the
micrometer calipers.

width.

If

it is

KNURLING
After piece

is

finished,

it is

removed from B and B

is re-

versed in the lathe so that the boss may be knurled.

In case there is enough room between the dog and the work,
when held as in Fig. 30, there is no need to reverse the work for

knurling since

it

can be done in this position.

The boss at the end of B is used as a handle so that if it were

The surface is
left smooth it would be hard to turn by hand.
therefore made rough with a knurling tool as shown in Fig. 32.
Fig.

32

The speed of the lathe should be about the same for knurling
as for thread cutting.

If the lathe

runs too

fast, the

knurling tool

does not cut satisfactorily.

The

tool

is

set so that the face of the rollers is parallel with

ELEMENTARY LATHE PRACTICE.

the surface to be knurled.

29

When

be forced into the piece easier

if

starting the cut, the rollers can

about half of their width extends

past the end of the work.

The knurling

tool should be pressed into the

work

fast

enough

so that about one half the depth of the finished knurl will be cut
while the lathe makes three or four revolutions.
If the tool is

forced in too slow,

it

will cut

a finer knurled surface than the

intended to cut.
The tool is fed along the surface in the same manner as in
plain turning. The speed at which the carriage of the lathe moves
has no effect upon the pitch of the knurled surface since this is
rollers are

controlled by the pitch of the grooves in the rollers.

If a finer

knurled surface is desired, a knurling tool having rollers with

finer grooves would have to be used.