The

Enlightened

Tech
An Indispensable
Guide to Clarifying
Nail Service
Terminology

by: jessie burkhardt

Director of Marketing
& Communications

Copyright 2012 by NSI. All right reserved.

NSI HISTORY
For more than 50 years, NSI has been at the forefront of researching, developing and
manufacturing innovative products with cutting edge ideas for the professional nail care
industry. We have built a tradition on creating breakthrough products that nail technicians
choose to use.
JUST LOOK AT OUR HISTORY
Since 1957, NSI has been a family owned and operated manufacturer of high quality
monomers, polymers and other enhancement products for the professional nail industry.
As early developers, inventors, and chemists, NSI pioneered and developed the first nonyellowing, cross-linked formulations used in all traditional acrylic systems today.
As pioneers, NSI was the first to introduce fiberglass-reinforced polymers, light activated
liquid and powder acrylics, UV cured gels, as well as air and heat activated polish sealants.
Our chemists continually meet the demands for innovative products.
Fred Slack III, along with his sons Rick and Kirby, and an international team of field testers,
have been instrumental in the development of numerous NSI products. The company
owns the patent on Elation and French Fin Tips which utilizes Poly FlexTM, a unique material
that far exceeds the limits for tip performance.
In going the extra mile for quality control, NSI requires batch and tracking numbers on all
products. If a nail technician does experience a problem, it can be quickly identified and
solved.
Mandatory inspection of manufacturing procedures plus many levels of quality control
ensure that all NSI products maintain consistency from batch to batch.
MISSION STATEMENT
NSI is committed to the future advancement of nail technology and the ongoing success
of nail professionals. We are dedicated to the innovation of thoroughly tested products and
progressive research and development. Our steadfast commitment to the highest level of
education and our forward thinking approach empowers our most valuable resource the nail
technician.
E-BOOKS
NSI decided to offer e-books on our website as another tool to provide comprehensive and
free information in an easy-to-understand format to help all nail technicians succeed. We hope
to offer many more in the future.

Introduction
By Jessie Burkhardt
I set out in creating this e-book when I noticed how many confusing terms were being thrown
about the nail industry. Of course, students and newbies were asking the most questions,
like What is a hard gel?, but I was surprised by how many veteran technicians were also
looking for clarification. I thought, If those of us in the industry are puzzled, imagine how the
poor clients feel!
It seems as though the nail industry has grown exponentially in the past five years. The old
way of referring to nail services just isnt cutting it anymore. New categories of products, new
techniques, and quite frankly a new generation of technicians have changed the way we talk
about nail services and in the end created a little confusion.
I, for one, am not afraid of change in fact, I embrace it. So, I had the idea to create a
Dictionary of sorts to try and piece together the puzzle of the various nail service terms that
I hear on a regular basis. I hope this e-book enlightens you and your clients. Also, Im open to
any conflicting thoughts on how Ive defined these terms (and would love to hear if you think
Ive missed something). Please e-mail me at [email protected] with any comments. Enjoy!

A
Acid-Free Primer \a-sd-fr prmr\ Well skip the definition of a nail primer, since
thats covered in every nail technician course. The confusion with primers exists with
the different types of nail primers. Originally, all nail primers were acid-based (usually
methacrylic acid). They were very effective, but extreme care had to be taken when
using them, because the ingredients were corrosive. Manufacturers started making
newer, safer alternatives for nail technicians. Acid-free primer is the newest type of
primer and does not consist of any acid-based component. Acid-free primers will not
burn the skin, nor discolor enhancements. When used appropriately, acid-free primers
work as well as acid-based primers, and better than non-acid primers see Non-Acid
Primer.
Acrylic Nails \-kri-lik nls\ Acrylic nails is a general term to describe
any type of nail enhancement that was created using a two-part
system of any nail liquid (monomer) and any nail powder (polymer).
NOTE: Applying a light-cured gel top coat over an acrylic enhancement
should not change the classification of the enhancement Its now
just an acrylic nail with a gel top coat.

B
Back Fill \bak fil\ The purpose of the enhancement back fill is to address the regrowth
area of the nail (zone 3). This is normally a routine service for enhancement wearers
that occurs every two-three weeks.

C
Color Gel \k-lr jel\ Defined as a heavily-pigmented pure gel
(without the presence of solvents) used for nail art or to cover
the entire nail plate or enhancement with color. Color gels are
not usually sheer pink or white. Color gels can be of the file-off
or soak-off variety, but they are traditionally packaged in a pot,
rather than a polish bottle. This can be a distinguishing factor
from a close relative; gel polish see Gel Polish.

D
Diamond Nails \d-mnd nls\ Plainly put, Diamond Nails are an attempt at marketing
hype to mislead consumers into thinking they are getting a better nail service. Its
really just a clear enhancement, and is made from acrylic, gel, or even a dip system,
and called Diamond Nails in the salon.1
1. Carter, Rise. Enhancement Classification Confusion http://www.nsinails.com/blog

Dips \dips\ Dips are another type of two part system, most commonly consisting of
cyanoacrylate (adhesive) combined with nail powder (polymer). While this system is
very easy-to-use, it lacks popularity because it doesnt deliver the adhesion & toughness
of an acrylic or gel nail (enhancement needs to be a shorter length).2

E
Extreme Nails \ik-strm nls\ Brand name for a particular type of dip system
see Dips.

F
Fiberglass Wraps \f-br-,glas raps\ Wraps in general are two part systems that
consist of small pieces of cut fabric adhered to the nail or a nail tip with the use of a
cyanoacrylate (adhesive). They could be described as three part systems because
they usually require a catalyst (something that creates the chemical reaction that allows
it to cure). The system is fairly easy to use and works wells for natural nail overlays
and tip and overlays. Catalysts can create excessive exotherms (heat) if not used
properly. Fiberglass wraps utilize a loose-weave fabric to cover the nails. The fabric
wets out (saturates with adhesive) easily which results in better clarity than other wrap
alternatives see Linen Wraps.3
Fill \fil\ See Back Fill

G
Gel Polish \jel p-lish\ Gel polish generally refers to a system of
light-cured products marketed as a longer-lasting alternative to
traditional air-dry nail polish. It is packaged in a nail polish bottle
and applied the same as nail polish. Gel polish colors can be a
color gel see Color Gel or a hybrid polish see Hybrid Polish.
In virtually all cases, gel polish can be soaked off with Acetone.
NOTE: You cannot extend a nail with gel polish alone. It is too
flexible and does not have the strength necessary for extensions.
Gel Powder \jel pau-dr\ A two part system that consists of a
layer of gel, then a sprinkling or dipping of nail powder (polymer). The enhancement
cures in a UV lamp. This system is very easy-to-use; however the powder acts as filler
and could block proper polymerization. It can also be referred to as Powder Gel.4
Glue Dip System \gl dip sis-tm\ See Dips.

2, 3, 4 Carter, Rise. Enhancement Classification Confusion http://www.nsinails.com/blog

H
Hard Gel \hrd jel\ This is another name that describes a traditional UV gel that is
solvent resistant and must be filed off for removal. It is the opposite of a soft gel which
is another term for a soak-off gel see Soak-Off Gel.

Hybrid Polish \h-brd p-lish\ Hybrid polish describes a type of gel polish - see Gel
Polish - that is made up of oligomers (gels) and solvents that are commonly found in
traditional, air-dry nail polish (in laymans terms a mix of gel and nail polish).

I
In-Fill \in fil\ See Back Fill.

L
LED \el d\ An acronym for Light Emitting Diode, LED is commonly used in the nail
industry to describe a type of lamp or energy used to polymerize specific light-cured
products. LED is a newer technology and is increasing in popularity because cure
time with LED lamps are significantly shorter, among other advantages. NOTE: Not
all UV-cured products will cure with LED. Contact the manufacturer to confirm LED
compatibility.
Light-Cured Acrylic \lt-kyurd -kri-lik\ Like traditional acrylic nails see Acrylic
Nails, this two part system consists of nail liquid (monomer) with nail powder (polymer)
the difference being that the product cures with a UV lamp. The set-up time is much
slower than traditional acrylic and it can be quite difficult to work with. (A much drier mix
ratio is needed for light-cured acrylic.)5
Linen Wraps \li-nn raps\ Wraps in general are two part systems that consist of small
pieces of cut fabric adhered to the nail or a nail tip with the use of a cyanoacrylate
(adhesive). They could be described as three part systems because they usually require
a catalyst (something that creates the chemical reaction that allows it to cure). The
system is fairly easy to use and works wells for natural nail overlays and tip & overlays.
Catalysts can create excessive exotherms (heat) if not used properly. Linen wraps
utilize linen (obviously); a thicker and tightly woven fabric. It doesnt wet out (saturate
with adhesive) as well as other fabrics see Fiberglass Wraps or Silk Wraps - often
resulting in less adhesion.6
5, 6 Carter, Rise. Enhancement Classification Confusion http://www.nsinails.com/blog

Liquid & Powder \li-kwd & pau-dr\ Liquid and Powder, often referred to as L&P, is
referencing nail liquid (monomer) and nail powder (polymer) see Acrylic Nails.

M
Monomer \m-n-mr\ The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines monomer as a simple
chemical compound that can be polymerized. In the nail industry, its just a fancy
word for nail liquid (used for acrylic nails see Acrylic Nails). There are different types
of monomers (or nail liquids) and the most commonly used are EMA-based (ethyl
methacrylate) monomers. MMA-based (methyl methacrylate) monomers have been
banned for use in nail salons in the United States.

N
Natural Nail Overlay \na-ch-rel nl ,-vr-l\ In general terms, this service describes
having an enhancement product (usually acrylic or some type of gel) applied directly
over the natural nail with no extension (the natural nail serves as the only platform for
the service). The purpose of the service is to add strength to the natural nails, which
are quite thin, flexible, and can be easily broken or torn. They can be called overlays
for short.
No-Light Gels \n-lt jels\ No-Lights Gels are another type of Dip system see
Dips. The two part system consists of cyanoacrylate (adhesive) combined with nail
powder (polymer). The name is very deceiving, because true gels do not play a role
in the system. The cyanoacrylate (adhesive) is just a gel-like consistency (hence, the
name). While this system is very easy-to-use, the product control needed to achieve
a properly designed enhancement is lacking.7
Non-Acid Primer \nn-a-sd prmr\ The name non-acid primer is a little deceptive.
It would lead you to believe that the primer did not contain acid, but thats not the
case see Acid-Free Primer. Non-acid primers do contain acid components; just
not methacrylic acid, which was the main ingredient in the first nail primers. The acid
components in non-acid primers are not corrosive, like methacrylic acid, and wont
burn the skin.

O
Odor-Free Acrylic \-df-fr -kri-lik\ Odor-free acrylic is still a two part system, like
traditional acrylic see Acrylic Nails. What makes this system odorless is a different
type of monomer; HEMA-based nail liquid. This type of liquid evaporates very slowly,
creating little vapor (hence, undetectable odor). This type of liquid needs a dry mix
ratio, sets up very slowly, and can be a bit difficult to work with. It requires a specific
technique to apply it properly.

7 Carter, Rise. Enhancement Classification Confusion http://www.nsinails.com/blog

Oligomer \-li-g- mr\ The backbone of gel chemistry is the urethane acrylate
oligomer. Its a short, preformed chain of individual monomers. In light-cured materials,
urethane acrylate oligomers offer superior toughness and scratch resistance. They
are the base for all gels and play a crucial role in determining their working properties,
including how they are removed (ie. solvent-resistant or soak-off).

P
Pink & White \pik & hwt\ Pink & white, often
abbreviated as P&W, refers to an enhancement
service where zone 1 (the free edge) is created
with a white nail powder or gel, and zones 2 &
3 are created with a pink or clear nail powder
or gel. The result is a French look that has not
been polished or airbrushed.
Polymer \p-l-mr\ The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines polymer as a chemical
compound formed by union of small molecules and usually consisting of repeating
structural units. In the nail industry, its just another word for nail powder.
Photoinitiator \f-t-i-ni-sh--,tor\ Photoinitiators (PIs) are an essential ingredient
in light-cured nail products. PIs absorb light and convert it into the energy needed
to drive the polymerization process (curing). The specific combination and type of
PIs used in a system greatly dictates the properties of the gel, including how fast the
product cures, how much heat (exotherms) is produced, and the type of light needed
for polymerization (UV, LED, or both). NOTE: Not all light-cured products can be cured
in the new LED lamps. Contact the manufacturer to confirm LED compatibility.
Porcelain Nails \por-s-ln nls\ Porcelain nails was a term you heard more in the
industry about 20 years ago. Like diamond nails see Diamond Nails it was a marketing
ploy to make clients believe they were getting something better than traditional acrylic
nails. Porcelain nails are made up of monomer (nail liquid) and polymer (nail powder);
therefore they fall under the acrylic nail category see Acrylic Nails. NOTE: True porcelain
is fired in a very hot kiln at 1100 degrees Fahrenheit to 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. No
literal meaning should be inferred from the name porcelain nails.8
Powder Gel \pau-dr jel\ See Gel Powder.

R
Rebalance \,r-ba-lns\ A rebalance is a maintenance service (similar to a back fill), but
it is a bit more involved. A rebalance is needed when the apex of the nail is no longer
where it needs to be because of outgrowth. A complete restructuring of product is
then necessary for strength, flexibility, and overall beauty of the enhancement.
Refill \,r-fil\ See Back Fill.
8 Carter, Rise. Enhancement Classification Confusion http://www.nsinails.com/blog

Rock Star \rk str\ Rock Star is a term usually used

in front of the words French or Toes. It describes a
service where glitter is used. For a Rock Star French,
the free edge that is normally white is replaced
with glitter, which can be mixed with acrylic or gel,
or sprinkled on top of uncured product. For Rock
Star Toes, the pedicure is all glitter, again by mixing
the glitter with acrylic or gel, or sprinkling on top of
uncured product.

S
Sculpt \sklpt\ A sculpt refers to an acrylic or UV gel service where the natural nail is
extended using a nail form as a platform. Acrylic and traditional UV gel are really the
only products suitable for this type of service, as strength is vital for the longevity of the
enhancement. FUN FACT: The Slack family (owners of NSI) patented the first nail form
in 1957!
Silk Wraps \sillk raps\ Wraps in general are two part systems that consists of small
pieces of cut fabric adhered to the nail or a nail tip with the use of a cyanoacrylate
(adhesive). They could be described as three part systems because they usually require
a catalyst (something that creates the chemical reaction that allows it to cure). The
system is fairly easy to use and works wells for natural nail overlays and tip & overlays.
Catalysts can create excessive exotherms (heat) if not used properly. Silk wraps utilize
silk and wet out (saturate with adhesive) the best of the wrap systems; achieving better
adhesion and clarity.9
Soak-Off Gels \sk-of jels\ Soak-off gels came about as a faster and easier-removing
alternative to traditional UV gels (which are solvent-resistant and need to be filed off).
These gels maintain many of the same characteristics of traditional UV gels; specifically
how they are packaged (in pots), applied, and cured. Two differences; they can be
removed by soaking in Acetone and you cannot sculpt on a form with soak-off gels.
They are thinner and more flexible than traditional UV gels, so not strong enough to
sculpt on a form (or for tip extensions that are relatively long). They can also be referred
to as soft gels see Soft Gels. The soft gel name refers to their flexible and sometimes
rubbery feel.
Solar Nails \s-lr nls\ For this entry, we are not referring to the particular brand of acrylic
Solar Nails but to a service that many salons are offering, mainly in the United States.
Its actually another form of marketing hype to mislead consumers into thinking they are
getting a better nail service than traditional acrylic. Most of the time, its described as a
pink & white service see Pink & White where the free edge is created using white nail
powder. So basically, its a made-up name for an acrylic pink & white.
Soft Gels \soft jels\ This is another name that describes a soak-off gel - see Soak-Off
Gel - that is not resistant to solvents and can be removed by soaking in Acetone. It is
the opposite of a hard gel see Hard Gel which is another term for traditional UV Gels
that must be filed off because they are solvent resistant.
9 Carter, Rise. Enhancement Classification Confusion http://www.nsinails.com/blog

T
Tip & Overlay \tip & ,-vr-l\ A tip & overlay refers to a service
(usually acrylic or some type of gel) where the natural nail is
extended using a nail tip as a platform.

U
UV \y v\ An acronym for Ultraviolet, UV is commonly used in the nail industry to
describe a type of lamp or energy used to polymerize light-cured nail products.
UV Gels \y v jels\ An oligomer-based nail product see
Oligomer that requires UV energy - see UV - to cure. UV gels
give the technician unlimited working time prior to curing in a UV
lamp. They are tough and durable, so suitable for virtually any
type of service, including natural nail overlay, tip & overlay, or
sculpting on a form. They are solvent resistant, so must be filed
off for removal.