Jabiru

J160
Constructors
Manual
from kit/serial number 237

Jabiru J160 Constructors Manual

General>Introduction

General>Introduction
Welcome to the Jabiru family, and a family it is.
Jabiru is a small aircraft and aero-engine manufacturer located in Bundaberg, Queensland,
Australia. The city has a population of 60,000 and until recently its most renowned export has
been the famous (or infamous) Bundaberg Rum. The Jabiru factory is located on the airport at
the Western edge of town where a staff of 55 craftsmen turns out these fine aircraft and
engines.
We are not just another kit manufacturer; we also build certified aircraft, engines and
propellers and have a quality assurance program fully approved by the Australian Civil
Aviation Safety Authority (CASA); as far as we know we are the only company doing so.
All of our products are original and have been designed, prototyped and produced in house, so
we can support you like no other kit manufacturer can.
Our distributors are fully supported by us and are a ready source of spares and free advice.
You need not have a degree in electrical engineering, an intimate knowledge of hydraulics or
a garage full of tools to complete this aircraft. There are no complex or complicated systems
on this aircraft. The gear stays down, the prop pitch is fixed and a simple switch operates the
flaps. The brakes are hydraulic and the simplicity will delight you.
Your Jabiru kit is designed to be simple to complete and finish, and will provide you with
many years of enjoyable flying.
Once completed you will find the aircraft extremely economical with operating costs more
associated with a car than an aeroplane, and the ease of maintenance will increase your flying
time.
If you're ever in our area call in for a coffee, we'll show you what we're up to and how we
make our aircraft and engines.
Safe Aviating and Happy Landings.

Rodney Stiff, Managing Director

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General>Constructors manual

General>Constructors manual
Welcome to the Constructors Manual!
In this Manual you will find all the instructions that you will need to build your very own
Jabiru, one step or task at a time. Each task in this Manual stands alone, with the intention that
each task will be completed before you move on to the next task. There are many good
reasons for this approach: you can easily keep track of where you are in the build; it forms a
checklist to ensure that nothing gets overlooked; and in many cases a task will be dependant
on the completion of a previous task, and if the sequence shown in the Table of Contents is
followed there will be no issues of this kind.
The Table of Contents of this Manual is also the Build Sequence.
We suggest that you print the Table of Contents out and keep it on the wall in your workshop.
As each task is completed mark it off - in this manner you can accurately track your progress
while ensuring that nothing gets overlooked.
The manual has been arranged into 2 major Sections plus General and Painting sections:

Pre-Paint

Post-Paint

Which have been further Grouped by:

Fuselage

Wings

Each Group is then broken down into Stage, Task and Step as required.
In the main the only sets of tasks that can be done without relation to each other are those
under the Group headings: Fuselage and Wings. Tasks in one group may be worked on
independent of tasks in the other group but the individual sequences under each group really
need to remain intact.
This Manual details the procedures that we have refined over many years of certified factory
builds, all combined with the experience of many kit builders to produce a document that
combines the best of both worlds: efficient, proven factory techniques throughout, but
arranged into a build sequence that meets the needs of kit builders.
For example: the first objective for most kit builders is to get the fuselage up onto its wheels
and mobile as quickly as possible so that the fuselage can be moved around the workshop/out
of the way of the wifes car/outside for cleaning/etc. By way of contrast, in the factory the
fuselage remains in a floor-mounted jig for the majority of the Pre-Paint tasks, which is not
usually an option for most kit builders.
Each task contains photographs of the work in progress in our factory, often in a step-by-step
manner in the case of the more complex tasks. While the Manual is formatted in A4 size you
may wish to print some pages in A3 size (if you have a suitable printer) for a clearer view
should that be required. Each task starts on a new page so you can print out single tasks.
As you work through this manual, and we suggest that you read it right through from start to
finish before you start your build, if something is not completely clear please call your dealer
or e-mail us for clarification: it may be that we can better explain something for the benefit of
future kit builders at the same time as helping you.
Enjoy your build!
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General>Constructors manual
Table of Contents
General
General>Introduction ................................................................................................................2
General>Constructors manual ...................................................................................................3
General>Tools and equipment ...................................................................................................8
General>Glossary ................................................................................................................... 11
General>Registration and certification .................................................................................... 12
General>Reference documentation .......................................................................................... 12
General>Unpacking and support ............................................................................................. 13
General>Composite standard procedures ................................................................................. 14
General>Aircraft grade bolts and lock nuts .............................................................................. 17
General>Rod ends................................................................................................................... 19
General>Health and safety ...................................................................................................... 20
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit ventral fin and trim horn .................................................................... 21
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage ................................................................................ 24
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main wheels .................................................... 29
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear ........................................................ 31
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Fit main gear ................................................................... 37
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit firewall .................................................................. 41
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings ........................................................... 45
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear .......................................... 51
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit engine mount and engine ....................................... 58
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller flange extension ...................................... 62
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit oil cooler ............................................................... 64
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fuel pump fittings ....................................................... 69
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit ram air cooling ducts.............................................. 71
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windscreen ........................................................................................ 75
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines ...................................................................... 78
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin ............................................................... 81
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator ......................................................................... 88
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit horizontal stabiliser ....................................................... 92
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder ............................................................................ 95
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling............................................................................................ 100
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit flap drive shaft bearing blocks ......................................................... 108
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit handbrake ...................................................... 110
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit trim control .................................................... 113
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Fit control stick......................................................... 117
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General>Constructors manual
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit rudder pedal mount blocks ................................................. 121
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit aileron cable brackets ......................................................... 123
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fuel system ............................................................................. 127
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit seatbelt anchors .................................................................. 131
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors .......................................................................................... 133
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windows .......................................................................................... 137
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Wheel alignment ................................................................................... 139
Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit wheel spats................................................................................. 141
Pre-Paint>Wings>General..................................................................................................... 144
Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit fuel tank filler body ............................................................................. 145
Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root ..................................................................................... 149
Pre-Paint>Wings>Cut aileron cable openings ........................................................................ 153
Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit quick drain sumps ............................................................................... 156
Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps .............................................................................................. 158
Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit wing tips ............................................................................................. 165
Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons ............................................................................................... 167
Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit pitot tube to strut ................................................................................. 173
Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings ............................................................................................ 175
Paint>General ....................................................................................................................... 180
Paint>Masking ...................................................................................................................... 182
Paint>Surface preparation ..................................................................................................... 183
Paint>Topcoat ....................................................................................................................... 184
Post-Paint>General ............................................................................................................... 185
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit panel mounted throttle .................................................................... 186
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel .................................................................. 189
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Electrical wiring diagrams ................................................................... 201
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 1 ...................................................................... 207
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring ........................................................................ 210
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls ................................................................ 222
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals ..................................................... 227
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit flap drive motor ................................................................ 234
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit instrument panel housing .................................................. 237
Post-Paint> Fuselage>Interior>Engine control cabling .......................................................... 240
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit the instrument panel.......................................................... 243
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 2 ...................................................................... 244
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim ................................................... 247
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit doors .............................................................................................. 252
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Final assembly ......................................................... 255
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General>Constructors manual
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller and spinner .......................................... 259
Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit wheel spats ..................................................................................... 263
Post-Paint>Wings>Install aileron cables................................................................................ 264
Post-Paint>Wings>Fit stall warning ...................................................................................... 266
Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting .......................................................................... 268
Post-Paint>Wings>Fit wings ................................................................................................. 272
Post-Paint>Wings>Connect ailerons ..................................................................................... 274
Post-Paint>Wings>Connect wing tanks ................................................................................. 277
Post-Paint>Wings>Fit flaps................................................................................................... 278
Post-Paint>Wings>Fit fairings .............................................................................................. 280
Testing>General ................................................................................................................... 282
Testing>Weight and balance ................................................................................................. 283
Testing>Rigging check ......................................................................................................... 287
Testing>Calibrate fuel gauges ............................................................................................... 290
Testing>Registration markings .............................................................................................. 292
Testing>Final inspection checklist ........................................................................................ 293
Testing>Flight testing ........................................................................................................... 308
Testing>Forms ...................................................................................................................... 321

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General>Constructors manual
Direction references
In all cases throughout this manual when any reference is made to direction (left, right, front,
forward, rear, aft) it is made relative to the pilots point of view, where the pilot is assumed to
be sitting in the pilots seat facing towards the front of the aircraft.
Lateral means something that it is oriented from side to side in relation to the aircraft.
Longitudinal or Fore and aft means something that it is oriented from the front to the
back of the aircraft.
Preparation
We suggest that you get as much preparation done as possible before starting your build.
Start with your workshop: give it a good clean out and consider upgrading the lighting and
power with plenty of strip lights and extra sockets for power tools. Paint the walls and ceiling
a light colour to provide as light a work area as possible. This will also help if you plan to
prepare the aircraft for painting preparation (filling/primer) and also the topcoat if you feel
you are capable of doing so.
In preparation for storing the vacuum-sealed Build Cards that pack many of the small parts
into convenient groups we suggest that you construct a large wallboard that you can place the
Build Cards on, preferably in numerical order (each Card is numbered) you will find that
this is much easier and more pleasant than sorting through a box or pile of Build Cards!
For items such as fairings and instrumentation prepare as much protected shelf space as you
can find (some shelving under a workbench can be particularly useful in this instance) and
also make a vertical bin in a cooler corner of the workshop to stand long items like elevator,
rudder and flaps in while building the relevant parts of the aircraft. Reserve an out-of-the-way
area for windows and other fragile parts.
In our factory we use large mobile bench/racks that contain all of the parts for an aircraft and
that rack stays with that aircraft all the way through production.
If you're going to do any painting, try to keep equipment and parts off the floor as much as
possible so that you can sweep/vacuum/hose the place out thoroughly in order to minimise
dust before you start any painting.
Get all of the tools and equipment on the list that starts on the next page.
Read this manual from start to finish to familiarise yourself with the work to come.
Consider getting extra insurance cover for your kit during the build to cover any risks
(fire/damage/theft, etc). Most aircraft insurers will quote for this and many builders consider
that the cost is worth it for the peace of mind that it brings.
Cold climate considerations
If you are building in a colder climate/during winter, some extra heating and insulation in
your workshop will help, as well as keeping the humidity levels up to acceptable levels for
epoxy work. Clearly, all workshops are different and your build inspector will advise.
Get a large roll of bubble wrap packaging sheet (1.5m x 15m) from your local garden centre
or packaging company (usually cheaper). In low temperature environments you will use this
to create an insulated tunnel by draping it over the work you've bonded/flocked and, with the
careful application of warm air from a fan heater, you'll easily achieve the 24C (or so) you
need for a good epoxy cure.
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General>Tools and equipment

General>Tools and equipment

Before getting started we recommend that you acquire the following tools and equipment:
these tools are not included in the kit and must be supplied by you.
Required tools
The following tools and equipment will be required as a bare minimum to complete this kit:
Allen keys: imperial set.
Aluminium angle: 3 or 4 straight lengths of 20x20x3 angle approximately 2m in length.
Clecoes: Clecoe pliers and at least 20 Clecoes.
Digital Kitchen Scales: (up to 5kg measured in 10
gram increments) for mixing resins by weight, using
the mixing pots provided. Accurate measurements of
small mixes can be made. Slip the scales into a clear
plastic bag to keep them clean the scale can still be
read through the bag.
Disposable gloves: for handling of epoxy and resin.
Buy a large box from the supermarket or hardware supply store.
Drill bits: 1/8" to " normal shank, 5/32" and 3/16" extended shank.
Electric drill: 3/8 chuck, preferably cordless with a variable speed trigger.
Electric hot air (paint stripping) gun: used to 'adjust' some non - structural glass fibre
airframe parts, like doorframes, door stop strips, etc.
Electric soldering iron: for general wiring as well as removing temporary screws.
Files: medium flat, medium and small rat-tail, medium half-round.
Hacksaw blades in holders for cutting in restricted spaces.
Hole saws: 1" to 2" or metric equivalents.
Masks: disposable paper face masks and/or a half-face respirator with suitable filter elements.
Nylon spring clamps: these come in mixed size bags from
hardware stores and you will use them in a multitude of ways.
Get 2 or 3 bags plus 3 or 4 big individual clamps.
Ring-open ended spanners: 3/8", 7/16", 1/2" and 7mm
Padding: felt or old blankets for various uses.
Pop rivet gun: hand operated or pneumatic.
Sandpaper: various grades between 80 and 240 grit. Detailed in the Painting task.
Screwdrivers: Phillips: small & #2, medium flat blade.
Socket set: " drive: at the very least 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" sockets.
Torque wrench: for engine/prop fitting, etc. Check the torque settings in the Technical
Manual that shipped with your kit to ensure you get one with the right range.
Trestles: at least 2 required, preferably 4 at about 800-900mm high with carpet covered tops.
Wet and dry bulb thermometer or calibrated hygrometer for the wall of your workshop.
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General>Tools and equipment
Optional tools and equipment
The following tools are not essential, but they will certainly make the job more pleasant:
Air Compressor & Air Gun. You can probably do without this if you plan to contract out
your filling and painting job, but if you intend to prime/fill/paint then you'll definitely need to
use the air gun to clean out crevices and pinholes in the gel coat. If you intend to do all of
your own painting then get a good quality spray gun and a compressor capable of at least
15cfm. You will need to include a good quality water trap too anywhere that compressors
and air tools are sold will be able to advise you on brands and specifications.
Cordless Screwdriver with various bits (get some spare Phillips #2 bits: those self-tappers
are really hard!)
Dremel Moto-Tool (or similar, cordless and multi speed if possible) used for grinding and
drilling glass fibre in hard-to-get places. Permagrit make some very useful bits for these: the
cut off disc and cylindrical grinding tools can be particularly handy.
Electric or Pneumatic Angle Grinder (4 - 5"), preferably with a vacuum cleaner attachment
to keep dust to a minimum. This is for grinding parts like the trailing edge of the wing above
the flaps. If you can get an adjustable speed one then so much the better. Fit a disc sander
backing pad and use discs between 80 and 240 grit.
Electric or Pneumatic Jig Saw for cutting holes such as the aileron/flap fitting holes in the
wing and other holes in wing/fuselage/empennage.
Electric or Pneumatic Orbital Sander for surfacing filler, preferably with a vacuum cleaner
attachment to keep dust to a minimum.
Industrial Vacuum Cleaner with 'crevice tools' A domestic vacuum may not be up to the
task, and as industrial units are readily available we suggest the purchase of a suitable
machine. You will be surprised how difficult it is to get glass fibre dust out from behind the
seats with just a brush! Get any fittings necessary to connect to your sanders and grinders. We
use several of these units in our factories and the amount of glass fibre dust lying around at
any time is minimal. A very worthwhile investment.
Lock Wire Pliers to put that professional
twist on all of your lock wire.
Lock latch

To use: lock the jaws onto both ends of your

lockwire using the silver lock handle, then
simply pull the twist handle at the back of
the pliers and presto, perfect lockwire!

Lock handle

Lock the jaws onto both

ends of your lockwire

and pull back on the twist handle

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General>Tools and equipment
Pedestal Fans to blow fresh air across work surfaces. We use plenty of these in our factory.
Permagrit-type Shaped Abrasive Tools for shaping/sanding glass fibre parts (try to get a set
of various shapes). Or make your own Sanding Blocks as described further down the page.
Pneumatic tools are great if you have a compressor that can drive them drills, jigsaws,
various sanding tools are widely available. We use plenty of these in our factory too.
Scales for weighing the aircraft: must be capable of weighing up to 150kg. Regular bathroom
scales are fine for this task. A single scale can be used, but these scales are quite reasonably
priced (less than $50 each in Australia currently) and the task is much easier with 3 scales.
Setsquare the long builders type with each side at least 500mm in length.
Silicone Sealer, General Purpose or Roof and Gutter sealer, must suitable for use on metal.
Spade Drill Bits as used in woodwork (pictured at right).
Used to recess the threaded inserts in the ventral fin and the
lower strut fairings.
Straightedge in 2 lengths: a 1 metre builders level type is good for aligning the flaps to wings
and checking the control surface deflections, while a 3 metre long length of 100mm RHS
(rectangular hollow section) aluminium is excellent for checking the rear of the wing and
aligning the horizontal stabiliser: make sure that you buy a straight length with no dents.
Sanding Blocks - stapling 80 grit emery tape around the ends of a length of straight timber
about 600mm long (shown below left) is very useful for achieving straight edges on items
such as trailing edges, flaps, etc. Taping emery tape to a short length of tubing (shown below
right) can be useful for things like the final sizing of the fuel filler body holes in the wing/tank
and so on. You will use plenty of sanding blocks as you progress through your build, and with
a little bit of imagination you can make them in almost any size and shape that you need.

TorqueSeal brand name security sealing lacquer used to show that nuts have been tightened
to safety or to the recommended torque setting and require no further work. Try aircraft parts
or engineering suppliers for this product. Comes in several colours.
Loctite compounds
This brand name compound is considered essential in the construction of your Jabiru.
Purchase the following grades:
Type

Use

Appearance

242

Thread locker medium strength

Blue liquid

262

Thread locker high strength

Red liquid

518

Sealant, form-in-place gasket

Red gel

577

Thread sealer medium strength

Yellow paste

620

Thread retainer high strength

Green liquid

7063

Cleaner can use Acetone in place

Clear solvent, aerosol applicator

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General>Glossary

General>Glossary
Here is a glossary of common composite terms that are used throughout this manual:
Term

Description

5-Minute Araldite

Quick setting brand name epoxy glue.

AT133 (not supplied)

Fibreglass cloth with wide unidirectional strands, which

provides great strength for weight. It is used in the fabrication of
the spar and undercarriage legs.

AT244

This is a standard bi-directional cloth that is used extensively for

plates and other flat surfaces.

AT303

This is a twill weaved cloth that can be moulded into curves and
is therefore used for wing and fuselage skins, cowls, etc.

AT312

A 2 wide glass tape.

AT313

This 3 wide glass tape is used to joint other glass structures.

The edges of glass tape do not fray like glass cloth.

Body Filler (bog)

Lightweight automotive filler used in paint preparation.

Clecoes

Patented reusable fasteners used to align parts prior to flocking

and fixing with pop-rivets. Store in Acetone to keep them clean.

Coremat

Lightweight core material used to make sandwich panels.

Flock

Low-grade short fibre reinforcement for resin. Also used as a

verb: to flock something into place for example.

Gelcoat

White polyester resin film used on exterior of supplied

fibreglass parts to provide a smooth finish.

Glass

Fibreglass cloth. Also describes the process of wetting fibreglass

cloth into a mould or onto parts: to glass something into place.

Joggle

Recessed step where 2 surfaces are to be flush joined.

An example is the joggle around the windscreen and windows.

Lay-Up

Resin wetted fibreglass cloth laid into a mould or onto parts.

LC 3600 Epoxy

Epoxy system used on all structural parts.

LC 3600 Hardener

part of LC 3600 epoxy.

LC 3600 Resin

part of LC 3600 epoxy.

Peel Cloth

To provide a surface that requires minimal preparation before

bonding, polyester cloth is included as the top layer of a glass
lay-up. The cloth is simply peeled off and the surface beneath
is ready for bonding, hence the name.

Polyester Resin

Resin system that uses a catalyst to cure. Does not provide good
structural properties like epoxies, and for this reason is not used
on any structural parts in your Jabiru.

Q-Cells (not supplied)

Inorganic micro-spheres mixed with resin and used as a

lightweight filler, usually used in paint preparation.

Resin

Generic term used to refer to the LC3600 epoxy/resin mix.

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General>Registration and certification

General>Registration and certification

The accuracy of records and correct administrative procedures are just as important as the
quality of workmanship in your project.
By now you should have established the regulations under which you will build your aircraft.
In Australia you have two options:
1. Experimental Rule
2. CAO 95.55 Amateur-built Ultralight Category
Option 1 is administered by the Sports Aircraft Association of Australia (SAAA)
Option 2 is administered by Recreational Aviation Australia (RAA)
Aircraft built under Option 1 can only be General Aviation (VH-) registered and must carry
EXPERIMENTAL markings.
Aircraft built under Option 2 can only be registered with the RAA and must carry 19 series
registration numbers.
You should consult the appropriate administrative association on their requirements for
documentation, inspections and project administration.
Contact details are:

Sports Aircraft Association of Australia (SAAA)

PO Box 169
Clifton Hill, VIC 3068
Phone: 03 9482 4716
Fax: 03 9482 3936
Recreational Aviation Australia (RAA)
PO Box 1265
Fyshwick, ACT, 2609
Phone: 02 6280 4700
Fax: 02 6280 4775

Internationally you will need to establish the requirements for building your aircraft under the
appropriate regulations governing amateur aircraft building in your particular country.
Your local Jabiru distributor can give you guidance on who to consult and how your project
should be administered.
In all cases, however, it is your responsibility as an amateur builder to ensure that you are
fully informed of the requirements and to ensure that you meet these requirements.

General>Reference documentation
The FAA Advisory Circular Aircraft Inspection, Repair and Alterations (publication AC
43.13-2A, ISBN: 1560270985) is an excellent reference work that covers all aspects of
aircraft building and repair, and it can be downloaded or purchased online from several
suppliers of technical publications.
The FAA Advisory Circular Amateur-Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing
Handbook (publication AC 90-89A), addresses the topic in considerable detail and which
may be obtained here: www.faa.gov/library/manuals/.

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General>Unpacking and support

General>Unpacking and support

Unpack the wing box first and inspect the contents: there should be two wings. Inspect for
transit damage then close the box and store, as the wings will not be required for some time.
Unpacking the main box is a much more complicated task as there are hundreds of parts and
they all have to be inspected for transit damage.
The first thing you should do is locate your packing list which is in with all the individual
components that have been packed with your fuselage. This list will show you all of the
components that have been packed, each of which should correspond with the specific type &
model of aircraft that you have ordered.
Your kit was triple checked when it was packed in our factory, but PLEASE check off every
single part as you unpack it: mark off every item so that YOU can be sure that you have
received them.
You could also make a note of where you plan to store each part or group of parts.
Please notify Jabiru of any missing parts within 3 months of the receipt of your kit.
At this stage it would be a good idea to store your instruments in a low humidity environment.
Store your propeller in a horizontal position.
Treat all the steel components with an anticorrosive substance.
Fibreglass components will soften and change shape when heat is applied, so keep this in
mind when deciding where to store your parts. For example: storing your flaps between the
rafters in the heat of the roof is a very bad idea if you live in a hot sunny climate.
Here at Jabiru we pride ourselves on our after-market support, and if you have any difficulties
through the building process we would be happy to help you to resolve them.
We provide product support via email, phone or fax.
Start by checking the resources on our web site at: www.jabiru.net.au and contact us:
Email: [email protected] (please send us a fax or call if no read receipt is received)
Phone: +61 (0)7 4155 1778 - (8.30 am-4.30pm AEST (Australian Eastern Standard Time))
Fax:
+61 (0)7 4155 2669
Spare Parts Department
Email: [email protected]
Phone: +61 (0)7 4155 2917 - (8.30 am-4.00 pm AEST)
Service Department
Email: [email protected]
Phone: +61 (0)7 4155 2811 - (8.30 am-4.00 pm AEST)
Postal Address:
Jabiru Aircraft Pty. Ltd.
P.O. Box 5792
Bundaberg West QLD 4670
AUSTRALIA
Location:
Airport Drive
Bundaberg West QLD 4670
AUSTRALIA
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General>Composite standard procedures

General>Composite standard procedures

Composite introduction
Composite construction techniques may seem mystifying to those who have never been
involved with composites before but they are straightforward and require only a few basic
procedures.
Composite surface preparation
For bonding composite-to-composite or composite-to-metal the surfaces must be prepared in
the following ways:
With peel cloth
Where it is known that a surface will be bonded to
another surface, peel cloth is usually incorporated in
the lay-up under the gelcoat to provide a bare, clean
virgin surface to aid the builder.
Typically peel cloth is included in the lay-up for all
structural components: vertical fin, horizontal
stabiliser, flaps, aileron pre-molds, etc.
To prepare the surface for bonding simply cut at the
edge of the peel cloth with a knife and peel the peel
cloth off as shown in the photo at right, then lightly
roughen the surface by sanding to provide a good
key for the epoxy to bond to.

Bare
surface

Peel
cloth

Gelcoat

Peel cloth is typically red in colour as shown, although other colours are sometimes used.
If you are in any doubt about the area that you intend to glass to, sand away the gelcoat and if
you see anything that is not bare fibreglass then do not glass to it until it is bare fibreglass.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER glass over the top of peel cloth!

Without peel cloth
Where there is no peel cloth for a bonding surface the surface must be free of gelcoat, grease
and contaminates and must be sanded lightly to provide a good key for the epoxy to bond to.
Metal
If it is necessary to bond to composite to metal, the metal surface must be degreased and
roughly sanded to provide a good key for the epoxy to bond to.
Summary
Careful surface preparation is extremely important when working with composites: all
surfaces to be bonded must be absolutely clean and must be roughened in order to provide a
good key for the epoxy to bond to.

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General>Composite standard procedures
Epoxy measuring and mixing
Quality assurance and record keeping
In Australia the SAAA require that a wet and dry bulb thermometer is kept in the room where
the lay-ups are done. A further requirement is that a sample of each mix is kept as a quality
assurance step. In your builders log you should record the wet and dry bulb temperatures, the
mix number (all samples to be numbered) and the batch numbers of the resin and hardener.
Samples of resin batches should be retained, dated and labelled according to the Task on
which the batch was used. Samples should be inspected after 24 hours to ensure correct
curing. The cured resin should be hard and scratch-able.
A good sampling device is a small plastic medicine measure cup: wipe the interior of the cup
with wax before each use to facilitate easy removal of the sample. Samples should not exceed
10mm in depth otherwise the heat generated during curing may affect the result.
Measuring epoxy
The Epoxy system used for the production of Jabiru Aircraft is LC3600, which is mixed in a
3:1 ratio, which means that 3 parts of resin are mixed with 1 part of hardener.
The best method for ensuring accurate measuring is to use a digital kitchen scale as described
in the section General>Required tools and equipment which is what we do in our factory.
Curing times
The LC3600 is a room temperature (24 Celsius minimum) curing epoxy so it requires no
elevated temperature curing unless you are working in a particularly cold climate or perhaps
during winter months. The recommended curing time depends upon temperature but a
minimum of 24 hours is good rule of thumb.
Mixing epoxy
When mixing the epoxy the mixture will initially appear 'cloudy' then as you mix the mixture
will become clearer but 'stringy', keep mixing and finally you'll be left with a clear mixture
with no sign of being 'stringy'.
Note: The smaller the mix the larger the possibility for errors, so consider combining several
tasks and doing a larger mix wherever possible.
Mixing in flock
As a general rule, mix flock so you can take a sample with a mixing stick turn it over & it
does not dribble off. If it is a little too runny, add more fibre flock.
Mixing epoxy and milled cotton flock together creates an excellent filler which is used in
many places to form edges and fillets. The mixture is referred to as 'flock' but is often used as
a verb, for example: "flock the bracket into the position shown...
Mixing 5-minute Araldite
5-minute Araldite is a fast curing epoxy and is very useful for bonding non-structural items
into place. If you find that your Araldite wont cure it is usually because 2 lots of the same
part were used instead of 1 each. We have all made that mistake at least once.
Mixing 5-min Araldite with cotton flock creates a good paste for 'bedding' parts into place.
Same rule applies as for mixing Epoxy.

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General>Composite standard procedures
Composite general
Glassing procedure
Any lay-up of glass fibre cloth should follow this general procedure: make a mix of resin and
brush a coat of resin onto the entire area to be glassed, then lay the first piece of cloth on and
carefully brush it into place, adding small amounts of resin to the brush as required to wet the
cloth, until the resin has completely saturated the cloth: the cloth seems to change colour
slightly from a silvery white to a colour close to that of the surrounding surface when it is
saturated with resin.
Once the first layer of cloth has been successfully brushed on, apply the second layer and
brush that on in the same manner, adding small amounts of resin as required to wet the cloth.
Repeat for as many layers of cloth as the task requires.
Peel cloth
Peel cloth is supplied in the bags of glass fibre cloth in the kit. The intended use for this peel
cloth is to brush it onto the top of a layed-up area of glass fibre cloth.
The peel cloth will smooth out the finished surface by allowing the resin to level off across
the weave of the glass fibre cloth and provide a good surface for painting preparation.
Trimming edges of glass fibre cloth
There are two times for trimming edges, these are before curing while the epoxy is 'tacky'
(approximately 2 to 4 hours after mixing) and when the structure is fully cured.
Various tools are used for trimming edges but for thin or 'tacky' lay-ups a sharp utility knife
may be used. Thicker cured edges may require a jigsaw and a rough file to trim. A heat gun
may be used to soften cured edges so that a utility knife can trim them.
Inspection and evaluation
Each lay-up will require an inspection and evaluation after curing.
Inspect for soft or wet patches after a reasonable time for curing has been allowed, as such
wet or soft areas may indicated an improperly mixed batch of epoxy.
Care must be taken to check that areas have actually been bonded together and that there are
no air gaps or bubbles between the layers of glass, especially in curves/radii.
Removing screws
Self-tapping screws are used to hold parts in place while epoxy is curing but once the epoxy
has cured it can be difficult to remove the screws.
Use your soldering iron to heat the head of the screw and the composite around the screw will
soften allowing the screw to be removed easily.
This is also a handy trick to use if any bushes are not perfectly in line and need a slight adjust.
Clecoes
Clecoes are used to hold hinges while they are being flocked into place prior to riveting and
so they must be free of oil and grease that could contaminate the surface to be bonded, and
they will inevitably get flock onto them during the bonding or flocking process.
To prevent these problems, keep your Clecoe fasteners stored in a sealed tin of Acetone to
ensure that they remain clean and ready for use the Acetone will dry off them in seconds.

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General>Aircraft grade bolts and lock nuts

General>Aircraft grade bolts and lock nuts

General
All bolts 3/16 or larger in diameter that have been supplied with your Jabiru kit are Aircraft
grade bolts.
Under no circumstances must any bolts other than Aircraft grade bolts be used on your Jabiru.
Aircraft grade bolts are significantly stronger than regular commercial grade bolts and have
features such as corrosion resistance that have been designed specifically for aircraft use.
Aircraft grade bolts are quite different in appearance to regular commercial grade bolts in
several ways: Aircraft grade bolts are usually gold or silver in colour; they have a relatively
short thread length and a longer plain shank or grip length.
In almost all cases the supplied and specified bolts will be the correct length for each task, but
kit builders need to be aware of the correct method of determining and/or checking the correct
length of bolts and also the correct method of tightening lock nuts.
The parts of a bolt
There are 2 variable lengths to an Aircraft
grade bolt: the overall length, usually just
referred to as the length, and the grip length,
which is the length of the plain shank of the
bolt, which is measured from underneath the
head of the bolt to the beginning of the
threads (see the drawing at right).
The thread length is generally fixed in
relation to the diameter of the bolt.
Bolt identification
Aircraft bolts supplied with your Jabiru kit are identified in this Manual and in Jabiru
drawings by the prefix letters AN, the diameter (measured in 1/16 increments) and the
length (measured in 1/8 increments) of the bolt and a suffix, which is usually A.
Examples of bolt identifiers would be: AN3-6A, AN4-14A, AN3-22A, AN4-72 and so on.
For example, for an AN3-5A bolt:

AN means the bolt has been manufactured to Aircraft (Military) standards

3 the diameter of the bolt in 1/16" increments: (3/16 in this case)

-5 (the dash number) the length of the bolt in 1/8" increments: (5/8 in this case)

A not drilled for a lock pin. Bolts with no A here are drilled for a lock pin

If the dash number defining the length of the bolt has two digits, the first digit is the length in
whole inches and the second number is the length in additional 1/8" increments. This can
become complex and if you feel the need to delve deeply into the subject you can locate an
AN bolt chart online or purchase an AN bolt gauge from suppliers of Aircraft grade fasteners.
The last example given above (AN4-72) there is no A suffix, which indicates that the
threaded end has been drilled during manufacture for a lock pin while the other 3 examples all
have the suffix A and do not have provision for a lock pin.

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General>Aircraft grade bolts and lock nuts
Determining and checking bolt lengths
A bolt must be long enough to ensure that no more than one thread will be inside the bolt hole
when the bolt is fitted. This grip length should be equal to the material thickness that is being
held by the bolt.
What this means is that the correct bolt length must be used in every case, and if a nut
cannot be tightened to safety then measures must be taken to correct the length, either by
packing with washers (an absolute maximum of 3 flat washers may be used for packing,
starting with the required washer under the nut, then one washer under the head of the bolt
and finally, if needed, another washer under the nut) or using a different length bolt.
Lock nuts
All bolted components on your Jabiru aircraft are held in place with lock nuts, either a Nyloc
type fibre lock nut for most uses or a steel lock nut for hot areas such as in the engine bay.
It is important to understand the procedure for tightening Aircraft lock nuts: each nut must be
fitted with a flat washer under it and tightened to safety, which is defined as having a
minimum of 1 threads and a maximum of 3 threads showing beyond the end of the lock nut.

!!WRONG!!
Less than 1

Correct

!!WRONG!!
More than 3

This is considered critical for load-bearing bolts and good practise for all other bolts.
Any less than 1 threads showing beyond the end of the lock nut means a risk of the nut not
locking correctly while any more than 3 threads showing beyond the end of the lock nut could
mean that the lock nut is bottoming on the thread and there is a risk overstressing the bolt and
nut and/or not gripping the joined material correctly. Examples of each case are shown above.
In general all nuts should be fitted so that they face outward so that they can be easily
inspected. Nuts inside the cabin should face out and towards the pilot if at all possible.
Nuts that have been tightened to safety should be marked with a dab of TorqueSeal.

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General>Rod ends

General>Rod ends
It can truthfully be said that the rod ends are the sole connection between the pilot and the
control surfaces of your Jabiru.
A very important item of hardware indeed!
Given the vital role that each and every rod end performs in your Jabiru it is equally important
that you familiarise yourself with the correct method of connecting rod ends.
There are 2 parts to connecting a rod end: the cable connection and the drive connection.
Cable connection
All cable rod ends are
female rod ends, which is
Jam nut
Rod end
to say that the cable (the
male end) is screwed into
the rod end (the female
end) the cable length can
be adjusted by screwing
the rod end further onto
the cable or further off
Safety
hole
the cable, and then the
Cable
cable is fixed to the rod
end by means of a jam nut on the cable that locks the threads from turning.

Spherical
bush

There must be enough cable thread length in the rod end to provide strength and security, and
each female rod end has a small hole, called the safety hole, part-way along one side through
which the cable threads must be visible if you cannot see the cable threads through the
safety hole, then you must not fly the aircraft until adjustments have been made so that the
cable threads are visible through the safety hole.
This is of the utmost importance and cannot be overstated!
Drive connection
Most of the rod ends on your Jabiru are driven by a 3/16 bolt through the spherical bush, and
they must be connected in the following manner: between the rod end and the drive lever, fit
one 3/16 flat washer (or more in the case of the flap drive arms details in the Flaps task).
Between the rod end and the retaining nut (or the head of the bolt, depending on which way
the bolt is fitted) fit one flat washer (one size larger than the bolt).
The purpose of this larger flat
washer is that should the spherical
bush in the rod end fail, the large
washer will provide a margin of
safety by preventing the rod end
from leaving the drive bolt. In the
photo at right you can see the way
that the washers are fitted.
In practical terms, should a rod end fail internally in flight the rod end will still remain
connected to the drive bolt and the control will continue to function.
Thus the correct fitting of the flat washers to rod ends is extremely important.
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General>Health and safety

General>Health and safety

Working with composites is no different than working with other chemicals and flammable
materials, and caution and common sense should prevail at all times.
NO SMOKING
Do not smoke or have any exposed flames near your kit or resin storage area.
Epoxy will burn.

Warning: the fumes from burning epoxy are extremely toxic!

Epoxy
Long term exposure to epoxy can lead to an 'epoxy allergy' so suitable safety precautions
should be taken as follows:
Contact
Do not expose your skin to epoxy. Neoprene, latex or nitrile rubber gloves (with pure cotton
gloves worn underneath to wick away sweat from your hands) and protective (industrial)
clothing should be worn when handling epoxies.
If epoxy is spilt onto the skin, wash off with warm water and soap immediately.
Barrier cream can help the skin to avoid becoming sensitised. Note: if barrier cream is used
take care to keep it away from any surfaces to be bonded by wearing gloves the cream could
contaminate and weaken the join so keep the cream inside your disposable gloves at all times.
Fresh Air
Epoxy fumes should not be inhaled. Blow fresh air across the work face at all times.
The use of an external fresh air source and facemask is strongly recommended along with the
use of a fan for blowing the epoxy fumes away. In our factory we use several industrial
pedestal fans to blow fresh air across the work surfaces at all times.
Dust
Always wear a dust mask when sanding or cutting composites. Cutting and sanding
composites creates a lot of dust and the extremely fine glass dust should not be inhaled.
A half-face respirator with suitable filters is highly recommended and should be worn at all
times when sanding fibreglass parts.

OK, lets get building!

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit ventral fin and trim horn

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit ventral fin and trim horn

Objectives of this task:
To fit the ventral fin, trim horn and cut the related rear fuselage penetrations. This task is
carried out while the fuselage is inverted and supported on trestles.
Materials required:
Epoxy resin and flock, 5-minute Araldite
Hardware box #4
Cut the cable and tube slots
The cable and tube slots are marked on the underside of the fuselage with marker pen.
Cut out the marked slots on the fuselage centreline. Each slot should be drilled at each end to
about and then the holes can be joined by cutting along the lines with a jigsaw.

150mm
Elevator cable
mounting bolts

Trim horn
DO NOT
CUT OUT!

Completed ventral fin area showing slots, trim horn and ventral fin retaining nuts

We find that widening the elevator cable slot (the slot at the very rear of the fuselage) as
shown in the photo above can provide useful access later in the build.
Do not cut out the line marker for the trim horn! The trim horn marking can be transferred
through the peel cloth by scribing around the marks with a sharp knife, cutting just deep
enough that the cut can be seen once the peel cloth has been removed.
File and sand all cutouts to a good finish. Remove the peel cloth from the ventral fin area (rear
underside) of the fuselage.
Check the elevator cable mounting holes: test fit the horizontal stabiliser to the fuselage and
push it all the way forward. Hold a set square against the rear of the horizontal stabiliser and
along the fuselage and measure exactly 150mm forward from the rear of the stabiliser (and
not the fuselage) as shown in cyan in the photo above the 2 holes should be on that line.
If they are not, fill the existing holes with flock and redrill them so that they are exactly
150mm from the rear of the stabiliser. This dimension will become critical later when you
adjust the elevator travel so take the opportunity to check it (and adjust it if needed) now.
Remove the horizontal stabiliser and store carefully until required.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit ventral fin and trim horn
Fit the ventral fin
Use a chalk line to mark the fore and aft centreline of the fuselage.

Lay the ventral fin on the rear of the fuselage and seat it so that it matches the curve of the
fuselage, then check that the fin is centred at the front and the rear and tape it in place. Drill
3/16 holes though each of the marked locations in the ventral fin mounting lip and through
the fuselage. Remove the ventral fin then enlarge the holes in the fuselage to 13/64 and use a
fluted wood drill bit (pictured right) to recess the hole so that the lip of the insert sits flush
with the surface and then tap each hole to a 1/4 UNC thread.
Use a screw and spacer (shown above right) as a tool to place
each insert. Before fitting the insert put a single drop of superglue onto the outside thread and then screw it into place.
Fit the trim horn
Sand away any remaining gel coat and roughness from around the trim horn mounting area.
The trim horn is slightly offset from the fuselage centreline so it will be necessary to sand the
foot of the trim horn so that it will sit completely upright when it is mounted. Sand the sides
of the trim horn at the same time so that the glass fibre cloth will bond correctly.
Mix up a small batch of 5-minute Araldite and
flock and coat the foot of the trim horn, then place
it on the marked line and use a length of tape to
hold it upright. Put masking tape over the threaded
inserts nearest to the trim horn to prevent flock
getting into the threads.

75 x 170

100 x 170

When the Araldite/flock mix has cured apply a small amount of resin and flock to make a
smooth radius at the foot of the trim horn and then apply 3 layers of AF303 glass fibre cloth to
each side of the trim horn. The bag labelled Trim Horn contains 2 sizes of glass fibre cloth:
the larger pieces (100 x 170) go on the side nearest the fuselage centreline. Leave to cure
overnight. The next day any excess cloth can be trimmed away with a sharp knife.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit ventral fin and trim horn
Finish the ventral fin

Resin

Drain
holes
Cut out

Sand the inside bottom rear quarter of the ventral fin. Mix around 200 grams of polyester
resin and add a few drops of hardener (take care not to use too much hardener or there may be
heat issues as it cures) and pour into the bottom of the ventral fin then prop the fin up at a 45
angle while it cures.
Once the resin has cured drill a 12.5mm hole through at the marked location this will be
your rear tie down point. Drill 2 drain holes, one at the front corner and one at the rear just in
front of the resin.
Cut out the marked area at the top rear this is where the elevator drive arm will travel.
Store the ventral fin for later final fitting and painting.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit ventral fin and trim horn task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage

Objectives of this task:
Once the Fit ventral fin and trim horn task has been completed
the fuselage can be turned upright and the remaining
penetrations made. This allows the bulk (but not all) of the mess
to be made early in the build.
In the factory we place the fuselage in a jig at this stage,
however you can achieve much the same result by placing a
sawhorse or a similar platform or trestle under the cabin and a
higher trestle under the empennage. Cover both of these items
with some padding to minimise scratching the fuselage.
Large holes should be started with a pilot hole first to accurately
place the hole and then be drilled out with a hole saw.
Slots should have each end drilled out first and then mark and
use a jigsaw to join the holes.
Rectangular holes should have a hole drilled at each corner and then be marked and cut from
hole to hole with a jigsaw. This practise will ensure accurate cuts with no sharply angular
corners or irregular edges.
Tools and materials required:
Orbital sander and hand sanding blocks
Power drill with bits, 30mm and 2 hole saws
Jigsaw
Epoxy resin and flock
Q-Cell filler
5-minute Araldite
Sand the fuselage
Start by using your orbital sander to take any rough edges away: the moulding process can
leave sharp edges and the occasional few glass fibre prickles, so take a bit of time now and
remove all of these potential hand hazards before starting work. Fibreglass cuts are painful
and you can do a lot to avoid them by careful preparation at this early point in the build.
Think of it as an investment in your comfortable building future.
Run your orbital sander lightly across every internal surface: around the door frames, seats,
console, windows, etc and anywhere else that looks even slightly rough. There is no need to
sand heavily; just a light scuff is all that is required. Use a few hand sanding blocks for any
hard-to-get-at places.
Remove peel cloth
Remove the peel cloth from the vertical fin stub and around the rear of the empennage
generally, including around the horizontal stabiliser opening.
Lightly sand around the edges of the areas under the peel cloth to remove any peel cloth
threads that remain.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage
Vertical fin stub
The rudder cable passes from the empennage and through the fin stub as does the static line,
VHF antenna cabling and strobe wiring (if you elect to have a tail strobe). All these items
require access into and though the fin stub.
15mm

180mm
70mm

140mm

Start by marking and cutting the rudder cable slot on the right-hand side of the fin stub:
measuring from the rear of the stub the slot starts at 180mm and is 70mm wide.
The bottom of the slot is located 15mm up from the base of the fin stub. Drill each end of the
slot to 15mm and jigsaw the slot out, and then sand any rough edges away. Refer to the photo
above left for detail.
The 30mm access hole on the left-hand side of the fin stub has its centre located at 140mm
from the rear of the stub. Refer to the photo above right for detail.
The 30mm access hole in the top of the fin
stub has its centre located at 30mm from the
rear of the stub. Refer to the photo at right.
30mm

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage
Cabin top penetrations
30mm

45mm
210mm

45mm
12mm

Mark a centreline between the bolt holes in the front and rear wing attach lugs: this will be the
height of the centre of the fuel gauge opening.
Now double check the measurement marked
210mm in the photos above and at right:
measure in the wing root from the front wing
210mm
lug back to the centre of the gauge as shown
at right, then measure on the fuselage from the
inside (not the outside) of the inner front wing attach lug (see photo above) the exact same
distance (which should be very close to 210mm) then mark and drill the pilot hole for the fuel
gauge opening. Recheck your measurements and then use a 2 hole saw to cut the gauge
hole: drill a pilot hole first.
Measure forward 45mm from the front wing attach lug and drill a 10mm hole for the stall
warning tube on the left side of the fuselage only.
To mark the fuel system connector slot, draw a line down 12mm from the back of the
rearmost wing lug and another line 45mm below the bottom of the rearmost wing lug, and
then mark the slot at 50mm wide and 10mm high. Drill both ends to 10mm and use a jigsaw
to cut between the holes. File the top and bottom of the slot to a smooth and square finish.
Cabin air vents
Cut a 60 x 44mm opening on each side of the
lower forward fuselage.
The bottom of the opening should be 80mm
above the bottom of the door opening and the
fore and aft location should be centred on a
vertical line drawn down from the rear of the
upper cowl joggle, all as shown at right:
Corners of the opening should be rounded to
suit the vent door the door should fit
towards the front of opening with a 3mm gap
at the rear to allow for the hinge action.

44mm

60mm
80mm

The air vent door surround can be flocked

into place inside the fuselage as shown at
right, with the hinge arm positioned at the
rear of each hole and using the door to aid
the positioning.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage
Fit the header tank enclosure
The fuel header tank sits behind the right-hand seat in a sealable enclosure and an additional
rib is fitted to the left-hand floor rib so that the lid that seals the enclosure also functions as a
luggage shelf behind the seats.

RH floor rib

Header tank
enclosure
Cable slot

Longitudinal rib
Right-angle section
Rear rib
LH floor rib

Support rib

Place the header tank enclosure on the floor behind the right-hand seat so that it fits snugly
between the longitudinal rib and the right-hand floor rib as shown above right and check that
the rear lip of the enclosure sits down on the rear rib. Drill the 3 pilot holes in the enclosure
(arrowed below right) at 3/32 through the fuselage floor and then remove the enclosure.
The drain from the enclosure will be through
the quick-drain fitting hole.
Mix a batch of resin, stir in Q-Cell to make a
firm mix and apply the Q-Cell to the cabin
floor as shown in blue at right, including a
circle with a clear centre of about 1
around the quick drain hole. Apply the QCell thicker towards the rear.
Refit the enclosure and secure with 3 x 8G
self-tapping screws and washers: tighten the
quick drain (front) screw so that the
enclosure sits firmly against the floor but
only tighten the rear screws enough to bed
the enclosure firmly into the Q-Cell mix.

Fuel pump
pilot holes

Support rib

Quick drain
pilot hole

Cut the front of the support rib off so that it runs straight down from the rear of the seat to the
floor, then pre-fit it inside the left-hand floor rib and make sure that the top of the support rib
is level with rear rib and the cross beam behind the seats. Araldite a length of split tube along
the front edge of the rib to protect fuel lines and cabling that will later pass in front of it.
Mix some resin and flock and fit the support rib into place and then fit the long right-angle
section of glass fibre to the cross beam behind the seats as shown top right and above. Make
sure that the top front of the enclosure is sealed and leave to cure overnight.
Next day trim the ends of the right-angle section to size, remove the 8G screws (heat if
required) then drill the quick drain hole out to 1 1/8 and the fuel pump holes to 3/16.
Use TLR rivets to fix the tie-down lugs to the floor ribs as shown on the drawing overleaf.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Prepare the fuselage task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main wheels

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main wheels

Objectives of this task:
In this task you will assemble the main wheels and tyres and fit the brake discs.
Materials required:
Cards # J21 Main wheels
Talcum powder for fitting the inner tube
Assemble the main wheels
Use a press or a vise to press the bearings into the main hub use a socket with a slightly
smaller diameter than the outer race of the bearing to press the bearings in with.
The outer bearing will sit slightly inside the hub while the inner bearing will be flush.
Do not press on the inner race the bearing is not designed to take pressure in that direction.
Sprinkle some talcum powder inside the tyre and insert the inner tube. Slightly inflate the
inner tube to prevent it becoming pinched then fit tyre and tube over the main hub and fit the
outer rim to the main hub with the inner tube inflation valve facing out.
Bolt the outer rim to the main hub, but before tightening the bolts make sure that the inner
tube is not being pinched by rotating the tyre and tube while holding the wheel still.
Fit the inner tube inflation valve through the hole in the outer rim and then tighten the bolts
holding the outer rim to the main hub. Inflate the tube to a pressure of 30psi the tyre will
pop out to the final seated position on the rims so keep fingers away while inflating.

Left wheel

Right wheel

Fit the brake disc to each wheel. It is important that each disc is fitted in the correct direction
of rotation as shown in the photo above and in the drawing on the next page. Fit each AN3-6A
bolt though from the disc towards the wheel as shown above and secure with an AN960-10
(3/16) flat washer and Nyloc nut and tighten firmly.
Use chalk to mark each wheel as being either a left or a right wheel.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main wheels

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main wheels task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear

Objectives of this task:
In this task you will assemble the main undercarriage legs, which includes fitting the axles,
disc brakes and wheels and adjusting the brakes.
Materials required:
Cards # J8 Dual Brakes and J21 Main wheels
Brake fluid for assembly of disc brake pistons
Spat brackets
Fit the retained nuts to the spat mounting brackets
using countersunk 3/32 rivets. There are 4 retained
nuts (arrowed) on each bracket. Countersink the
actual screw holes where the spat will be fitted: the
countersinks will help to guide the screws into the
holes when fitting the spats.
Fit the axles and backing plates
Slip the stub axle (from the Main wheels
card) through the mounting plate with the
brake unit facing towards the front of the
aircraft and fit to the main gear leg as shown
in the photo at right. The chamfered face of
the plate is on the side that faces the gear leg.

Front of aircraft

Align the bolt hole in the outboard end of the

stub axle (arrowed in green at right)
vertically and fix the plate in place 2 x AN516A bolts at the top and 2 x AN5-15A bolts
at the bottom. The longer bolts are used at
the top to allow for the spat bracket.
Fit the spat bracket to the AN5 bolts with the
captive nuts facing towards the wheel and
with the notched surface to the bottom as
shown below right.
Fix in place with one Nyloc nut and washer
on the top front bolt.
The gear leg shown in the photos on this
page is a right-hand gear leg.

Front of aircraft

Fit Nyloc nuts and flat washers to the 2 bottom bolts and a Nyloc nut with a penny washer to
cover the adjustable slot at the top rear bolt. This slot will allow the spat to be moved up or
down during final assembly. The slot must face the rear of the aircraft.
Check that the bolt hole in the outboard end of the stub axle is positioned up and down before
tightening the nuts firmly.
Use a permanent marker to identify each leg as being either a right or left leg at this point it
can save confusion when you come to fit the gear legs in the next task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear
Assemble the brake pads
Fit the brake pads to the backing plates: there are 2 types of backing plates flat and U
channel.
Both types take the same pads, but the shorter rivets are used on the flat backing plate.

Face the angled side of the pad to the outside of the backing plate as shown in the photo of
completed pads below right. Each brake pad is held in place by 3 rivets and the fitting process
is as follows: fit all 3 rivets from the recessed hole in the pad through the pad and though the
backing plate. Note that fitting the third rivet may need a slight touch with a drill to ease the
rivet through the last hole.
Seat the rivets by tapping the
heads to make sure that each
rivet is fully through the pad and
the backing plate, then turn the
assembly over and rest the head
of the rivet on a protrusion* and
flare the rivet using a tapered
punch then use a flat punch to mushroom the end of the
rivet over. The rivets should not be able to move when
correctly fitted.
*In the factory we use a simple jig that holds the backing
plates over studs at each end and has 3 raised screws to
hold the rivets up you can see it in the riveting photos
above.
You could make up something similar in your workshop
by screwing 3 screws into a solid wooden bench (use a
backing plate for the spacing), all at the same height so
that the brake pad just clears the bench and the head of
each screw touches the head of each rivet, then place each brake pad and backing plate over
them and use them to punch against.
Check each brake pad and backing plate assembly carefully to see if there are any cracks in
the pad, particularly around the end rivet holes. If there are any cracks call your dealer for a
replacement pad and rivets: do not fit a cracked brake pad.
The brake pad and backing plate assembly will be referred to as simply a pad from this point
on. The U channel pad is the outer pad and the flat plate pad is the inner pad.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear
Assemble the brake calipers
In this step you will assemble the hydraulic disc brake calipers.
Cleanliness is essential when working with hydraulic brake parts, so clean your working area
and your hands thoroughly before starting this step.

Use compressed air to clean any dust and dirt from the inside of the brake calipers and
pistons. Apply brake fluid to the O-rings and fit one to each piston, then apply a smear of
brake fluid to the inside of the caliper and fit the pistons to the calipers: press the piston gently
into the caliper with the cupped side of the piston facing outwards.
Thread and tighten a bleed
nipple into the lower fitting on
the caliper (under the Jabiru
logo) and push a blanking plug
into the top fitting as shown at
right the brake lines will be
fitted later in Post-Paint and the
blanking plug will keep the
caliper sealed until then.
Wash any brake fluid off your hands with soap and water it can irritate sensitive skin.
Refer to the drawing on the next page for an overview of the brake system.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear
Assemble the brake and wheel
Firstly and very importantly place the alloy washer
(#6A028B0D on the Main wheels card) on the stub axle
with the tapered inner side towards the gear leg and away
from the wheel this washer (circled at right) provides a
square surface for the inner wheel bearing to butt up to.
Now we can fit the appropriate wheel (left or right) to each
gear leg and then fit the brake system.
Fit the wheel to the stub axle and secure with the axle extension, fitting an AN3-12A bolt
though the extension and the axle from the top with a lock nut on the bottom.
Take the U channel backing plates and the
steel lock nuts. Fit a bolt through the
backing plate from the pad side and into the
nut and very carefully apply a drop of
Superglue to 2 opposite flats of the steel
lock nut and then pull the steel lock nut
back into the U channel as shown arrowed
at right to glue the nut into the U channel:

Glue nut
in here

Pull bolt back this way

Take care not to glue the bolt into the nut!

Look carefully at the drawing on the
previous page to see how the brake assembly fits together.
As you can see from the drawing the outer pad goes on the outside of the wheel disc, while
the inner pad goes between the wheel disc and the brake mounting plate and the hydraulic
caliper goes behind or inboard of the inner mounting plate.
2 AN4-14A bolts, each with a washer, secure the whole assembly and each bolt has a spring
that is fitted over the bolt and which holds the brake pads apart. In the factory we fit the top
bolt first with no spring in order to get the correct alignment and then fit the bottom bolt and
spring, then go back to the top bolt and fit the spring.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear
Adjust the brakes
The objective is to have a wheel that will turn freely while at the same time not having the
brake pads too far away from the disc.
In order to achieve this it may be necessary to slightly bend the brake mounting plate away
from the disc loosen the main bolts just enough that the outer pads are 1 or 2mm away from
the disc and check just the clearance between the inner backing plate and inner pads.
If the inner pad is rubbing and making it difficult to turn the wheel, gently bend the brake
mounting plate slightly away from the disc until the wheel can turn freely but with the pad
just touching the disc.
Now tighten the main bolts up until the outer pad just starts to bind on the disc and then back
the bolts off slightly, perhaps one third to one half of a turn. At this point the wheel should
turn freely and the brake pads should still be very close to the disc.
In the photo at right you
can see the finished brake
assembly, fully adjusted.
Note that there is very little
clearance between the disc
and the brake pads.
Note also the springs on
the bolts that hold the pads
apart.

Brake mounting
plate

Brake disc

At the left of the photo you

can see the spat bracket
with the captive nut visible.

Brake caliper
Inner pad
Outer pad

Main bolt

Tire

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Assemble main gear task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Fit main gear

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Fit main gear

Objectives of this task:
In this task you will permanently fit the main undercarriage to the fuselage. Both main gear
legs will be fitted to the fuselage at the same time and the mounting bolt reinforcing plates
will be flocked to the cabin floor as part of the fitting process.
At this point in the build the fuselage should be upright and firmly mounted on 2 trestles that
place the underside of the fuselage at 650mm high under the cabin.
A standard builders sawhorse placed in front of the main gear recess would provide adequate
clearance.
Materials required:
Card # J7 Undercarriage
Epoxy resin and flock
10mm / 3/8 ID reinforced hose approximately 80mm long:
Prepare and pre-fit the main gear legs

Fit the centre bolt to the inboard end of each leg: the AN6-24A bolt (the shortest 3/8 bolt on
the Card) goes through a flat washer, a machined aluminium washer and 2 rubber bushes,
with the rubber bushes fitting into the gear leg as shown above left and centre.
Fit the gear leg into the recess in the fuselage and fit the bolt up through the inner hole in the
gear leg recess as shown above right. Place a Nyloc nut loosely on the thread for the moment.
Cut out the yellow packers for the clamp plate and drill 3/8 holes in each end as marked
use the clamp late as a drilling jig.
Fuselage
Plates

Packer
Gear leg
Gear leg
Clamp plate

Assemble the clamp plates: fit 2 x AN6-26A bolts and washers to the clamp plate then fit the
yellow clamp plate packer to one bolt only.
Fit the assembly around the gear leg then fit the yellow clamp plate packer to the other bolt
and test fit by fitting the bolts up through the holes in the fuselage.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Fit main gear
Use a pencil to mark the position of the clamp plate on the top and bottom of the gear leg
the clamp plate will be flocked onto the gear leg and the marks indicate where you will need
to roughen the gear leg in order to provide a key for the flock.
Remove the clamp plate; roughen the top of the plate and the marked areas on the top and
bottom of the gear leg.
Pilots seat
back
Forward
outer bolt

Centre bolt

On each side of the front seats are the centre and forward outer clamp holes for the main gear,
while the rear outer clamp hole is on the floor behind the main beam, and each hole will have
a reinforcing plate flocked over it. (The plates are on the Card, part numbers 6036094 and
6037094, and can be seen the lower left-hand photo on the previous page.)
Roughen the area around each hole and the back of each reinforcing plate to provide a key for
the flock. The surface around each hole is not absolutely flat, and no attempt should be made
to make it flat because doing so would require removal of glass fibre from the floor which
could weaken the area.

Fit the main gear legs

Mix a batch of resin, keep a small amount aside and add flock to the remainder.

Apply a 2mm layer of flock to the top of the clamp plate and reassemble the clamp plates: fit
2 x AN6-26A bolts and washers to the clamp plate then fit the yellow clamp plate packer to
one bolt only.
Fit the assembly around the gear leg then fit the yellow clamp plate packer to the other bolt
and fit the bolts up through the holes in the fuselage.
Push the gear leg firmly up against the fuselage and use a softheaded hammer to drive the
clamp bolts and centre bolt fully home.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Fit main gear
Fit the reinforcing plates
Cut 4 x short lengths (~7mm) of reinforced hose (cut square) and slip one over each centre
bolt, then fit the curved reinforcing plates, roughened side down with the curved side facing
outwards, followed by a flat washer and a Nyloc nut.
Fit the other short lengths to the forward outer clamp bolts and then cut 2 x 12mm lengths of
reinforced hose and slip one over each rear outer clamp bolt, then fit each square reinforcing
plate, roughened side down, followed by a flat washer and a Nyloc nut.
Before --- Centre bolts --- After

Reinforcing plate

Reinforced hose
Floor

Floor

Tighten each nut until the first thread on the bolt is just visible above the top of the nut at
this point the bottom of the reinforcing plate will be very close to the cabin floor and the
reinforced hose will be compressed to roughly half of its original thickness and will have
formed to suit the shape of the floor so it will completely seal the bolt from any flock.
Tap each plate around until it is squarely aligned in relation to the console or the sides of the
fuselage as appropriate.
The clamp bolt reinforcing plates have the holes drilled off-centre: the widest part of the plate
should be closest to the higher part of the floor.
Brush some resin on the floor under each reinforcing plate and then pack flock in and around
each plate until all voids are filled.
Use a clean mixing stick dipped in resin to smooth any excess flock from around the plates
and also from around the clamp plates under the gear leg.
Leave overnight to cure.
Next day the clamp bolts can be tightened until 2 threads protrude beyond the nut, which in
turn will provide the required tension.
Tighten the centre bolts until the rubber bush between the gear leg and the aluminium washer
has been compressed to half its original height.
The main gear is now permanently fitted to the fuselage and the saw stool or trestle can be
removed from beneath the cabin, however the trestle that is supporting the tail of the aircraft
will need to remain in place until the nose wheel and engine have been fitted.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Undercarriage>Fit main gear task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit firewall

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit firewall

Objectives of this task:
To fit the stainless steel firewall plate to the fuselage. This task will require accurate
measuring and bending of the firewall plate: it is possible to make an accurate bend by
clamping the plate to the edge of a solid workbench between 2 lengths of heavy angle iron
and use a solid length of timber or heavy angle iron to press the bend to a tight radius, but for
a small fee many plumbers or sheet metal shops will bend the firewall plate for you, and
provided that your markings are accurate this may be a good choice for many builders.
Note that the bends required are not sharp creases but rather tight radius (3mm) bends of 55,
which is the same type of bend that a plumbers sheet folder will make.
Materials required:
Firewall plate (stainless steel)
Dow Corning silicone sealant (dark green tube in kit shown above right)
Firewall insulation sheet (white roll in kit shown at right)
38 x 73 AS 5/32 rivets and matching washers
Mark and bend the firewall plate
The technique that we use in our factory is to temporarily mount the firewall near the lower
bend with 2 self-tapping screws and mark the centre of the bend points, then bend the plate.

Large
hole
Small
holes

screwed here

Level here

Start by having someone help you to position the plate so that the bottom centre of the plate is
level with the bottom of the fuselage and the plate is equally spaced side to side. It is
important that the plate is positioned the right way around: the small holes must be in the
upper left and the larger hole must be in the upper right when viewed from the front. Refer to
the photo above left as an example of the correct positioning.
Drill a 3/32 hole through the plate and into the plywood firewall each side (as arrowed in the
photo at above left) and fit a self-tapping screw, then mark the centre of the lower bend on
each side (as circled at above right). Bend the plate slightly back at the lower bend as a
reminder of the correct bend direction for later when you bend the plate.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit firewall

Measure from the centre of the lower bend back to the centre of the upper bend on the
fuselage and transfer that measurement to the firewall plate note that the measurement may
be slightly different from side to side so measure each side independently. Recheck your
measurements and then remove the plate, transfer the lower bend marks to the back of the
plate and take the plate to the bender.
It is particularly important that the bends are made in the correct direction: the lower bend
should take the plate towards the rear of the aircraft while the upper bend should take the plate
upwards, parallel to the lower part of the plate. Take care to make the bends in the correct
sense the plate cannot be reversed if the bends are made backwards.

These photos show the upper bend being made and the plate sitting in place. In our factory the
bending process takes a skilled person about 15 minutes it is not a complicated task so long
as you take care to measure accurately and bend carefully and in the correct sense.

Fill the lower plywood firewall

Due to the moulding process there may be a slight depression in the
lower centre of the plywood firewall where the nose gear will be
mounted. Mix 80 grams of flock and apply to the area, then use the
side of a mixing stick to level the area as shown at right.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit firewall
Fit the firewall plate
Run a drill through the engine mount holes in the upper firewall (shown circled in the
photo below left). This will make fitting the top engine mount much easier.

Apply a generous bead of the Dow Corning silicone sealant about 1 in from the edge of the

plywood firewall all the way around the perimeter and also in a zigzag pattern across the
firewall and then lay one insulating sheet onto the plywood firewall to the midpoint of the
firewall so that it is held by the sealant. Lay the other sheet and butt up to the first sheet in the
middle of the firewall. Pat the sheet into place and then cut to size with a sharp knife.

Apply the Dow Corning silicone sealant to the back of the firewall plate in the same manner:
around the outside and across the rest of the back, then place the plate onto the insulating
sheet and push firmly into place using the lower part of the firewall sheet as a reference.
Secure temporarily with 2 self-tapping screws at the base of the upper bend on both sides and
2 more in the holes just below the upper bend.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit firewall

Once the plate is held in place in this manner you can start to fix it permanently with pop
rivets, working carefully around the plate, drilling through the pre-drilled holes in the plate
and through the plywood and taking care to always put a washer on the back of each rivet
(circled above centre) unless you have long arms you will probably need another person to
help you with this step by holding the washers in place while you rivet.
Be particularly careful when drilling though the plywood firewall if you push too hard then
the drill can chip a section of ply out when it breaks through the back of the plywood, so drill
using gentle pressure only.
Once the plate has been fully riveted into place use a sharp knife to trim away the insulating
sheet from around the edges of the firewall plate.
Fit a temporary plate (plywood is fine, in the factory we
use aluminium) across the lower centre of the firewall to
hold the plate firmly against the flock filler. 3 screws (2
top, 1 bottom, arrowed) are sufficient to hold the plate in
place overnight while the flock cures.
Next day remove the plate.

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit firewall task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings

General:
This task requires the drilling of several holes through the stainless steel firewall. Stainless
steel is hard, and the best way to drill it is to use very sharp drill bits and drill very slowly:
drill too fast and your drill bit will very quickly become blunt and the stainless will workharden as well. For the larger holes you will need a hole saw and a few drops of cutting oil on
the teeth will make the cutting easier, once again using a slow speed.
Materials required:
Card #s J10 Firewall, J11 Fuel components, J25 Cabin heater, Dow Corning sealant
Air box and cable collars

295mm

The air box needs to have a small amount ground out to allow for the cable collar: mark and
remove the area indicated in the photo above left. Position the air box so that it sits flat on the
firewall just above the upper bend, then measure in 295mm from the left hand edge of the
firewall to the left hand main side of the air box. Check that the air box is level and then fix it
in place temporarily with a strip of cloth tape along the top edge.
With the air box held in place, hold the cable collar in the ground out area as circled at above
right and mark the centre of the collar. Remove the air box and drill a 22mm hole through the
firewall for the cable collar then fit the cable collar with 6G stainless steel screws (drill 1/8
holes through the firewall plate only for these screws, they will self-tap into the plywood
firewall).
Apply a bead of the Dow Corning sealant around the mounting surface of the air box and fix
it in place with 8 x 5/32 pop rivets, 1 on each corner and 1 at top and bottom centre, with a
washer on each side of each rivet (rivets arrowed in red).
Apply extra sealant around the
cable collar so that there is a
good seal with no possibility of
air leaks.
Wipe away any excess sealant
with a clean cloth.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings
Fit the right hand cable collar: measure in
280mm from the right hand side of the
firewall and up 60mm from the upper bend
and drill a 22mm hole through the firewall
then fit the cable collar with 6G stainless
steel screws (drill 1/8 holes through the
firewall plate only for these screws, they will
self-tap into the plywood firewall).

280mm

60mm

Battery box and battery

50mm

Run a 3/16 drill through the 2 pairs of holes on the right hand mid section of the firewall and
bolt the tie down brackets into place with AN3-6A bolts as shown. Position the battery box
50mm up from the lower bend and fix in place with 4 x 5/32 pop rivets, with a washer on each
side of each rivet.

Put the battery in the battery box with the terminals to the top and secure it with a tie down
strap: loop the strap through the brackets and through the locking buckle with the free end of
the strap pointing down at the front, then loop that free end back through the bottom bracket
and tie it off around the strap and cut to length as shown. Use a flame to melt the cut end.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings
Cabin heater
Measure up 180mm from the lower bend and in 340mm from the left hand side of the firewall
step and drill a pilot hole, then drill a 1 5/8 (41mm) hole for the cabin heater firewall fitting.

The fitting is in several parts: press the machined end of the short section of tube into the hole
on the side of the main body. Assemble the shaft, flap and actuating arm and then push the
threaded end of the main body through the firewall.
Spring bracket

Cable hole

Spring bracket

Turn the main body so that the pressed-in tube faces the left of the aircraft and fit a small
screw into the notch in the flange to prevent the main body from turning (circled above).
Drill a 1/8 hole in the firewall above the main body and directly below the shaft: pop rivet
the right-angled spring bracket into this hole and connect the spring to it. Drill a 5/16 hole
for the cable directly in line with the end of the actuating arm. Fit the retaining nut to the
threaded end of the main body on the inside of the firewall and tighten firmly.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings
Fuel fitting

Assemble the firewall fuel line fitting: Press the flat plate of the brass bulkhead fuel fitting
into the top of the aluminium sleeve (this sleeve connects to the plastic fuel sheath on the
inside of the firewall), and bond it into place with 5-minute Araldite.
Drill through the pre-drilled hole in the firewall and fit the assembly, fit the washer and Nyloc
nut and tighten.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings
Electrical components

30mm

20mm

Use some 3mm aluminium to make backing plates for the solenoid and the earth terminal as
shown below these are to spread the load and minimise crushing of the plywood firewall.
Place the starter solenoid as shown with the top of the terminals 30mm below the top of the
firewall. Fix the solenoid into place with 2 AN3-7A bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts.
Fit the main electrical earth terminal (maroon arrow above) by drilling through the pre-drilled
hole in the firewall and fix into place with an AN3-7A bolt, washer and Nyloc nut.
Place the regulator module 20mm in from the side and in line with the bottom of the battery
box (green lines above). Fix the module in place with AN3-12A bolts, washers and Nyloc
nuts. The optional strobe unit is placed as shown and secured with 6G self-tapping screws.
Inside view

Solenoid
Cable collars

Air box rivets

Earth
terminal
regulator
Cabin
heater

Fuel
fitting

Battery

This is how the finished job will look from the inside.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings
Air box outlet tube
Remove the cover from the air box: it is held in place by 4 screws, one at each corner.

15

Cut a hole in the bottom of the angled lower front part of the cover and fit the supplied short
length of fibreglass tube and fit in place so that when the cover is laying on the workbench as
shown at above left the tube angles upwards at an angle of 15.
Fix the tube in place with a mixture of 5 minute Araldite and flock, filling the area around the
inside and outside of the join.
Use enough of the Araldite/flock mixture to completely fill the area surrounding the tube on
the inside of the cover as shown above right. You may need a second mix to complete this.

When the Araldite/flock mix has cured, grind the protruding lip on the inside of the cover
down until it forms a wide radius into the tube so that the air has a smooth flow from the air
box and into the tube any sharp edges at this transition can have the effect of restricting
airflow to the carburettor so take your time and get the curve just right.
Fit the cover back onto the air box.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Firewall fittings task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear

Objectives of this task:
To assemble and fit the nose gear including the front wheel to the stage where the aircraft is
standing on its own 3 wheels, the main gear having been fitted previously.
Materials required:
Card # J7 Undercarriage
Card # J19 Nose leg
Card # J20 Nose wheel
Epoxy resin and flock
Steps
1. Assemble the nose leg
2. Assemble the nose leg housing
3. Fit the nose leg housing
4. Assemble the nose wheel
5. Fit the nose leg and nose wheel
Assemble the nose leg
Assemble the nose leg by reference to the drawing 2 pages over.
Press the nylon bush through the tube at the bottom of the leg (photo
at right) and flock in place if needed, then fit the machined yoke with
an AN4-72A bolt, washer and castellated nut. Use a split pin to retain
the castellated nut. Fit the lower retaining collar to the machined
section of the nose leg (arrowed above) with an AN3-22A bolt.
Fit the lower part of the suspension shaft to the yoke, placing the
nylon bush through the bottom hole, superglue a washer on each side and secure in the yoke
with an AN5-15A bolt, washer and Nyloc nut as shown circled in yellow in the photos below.

Slip the tapered lower washer onto the lower suspension shaft and place the red suspension
rubbers over the upper shaft as shown above right. Note that in the photos above the nose leg
has been left out for clarity.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear

Lever

Nose leg
Main rubbers

AN3-07A bolt

Rebound rubber

Fit the machined washer and rebound rubber to the top of the
inner suspension shaft and secure to the shaft with the retaining
collar and an AN3-06A bolt and Nyloc nut. Clamp the yoke in
a vise and use a long bar inserted into the top of the nose leg as
a lever to compress the rubbers until the inner shaft can be
secured with an AN3-07A retaining bolt (arrowed above left).
Compressing the rubbers will require substantial pressure: the
lower part of the leg will need to be almost horizontal in order
to fit the retaining bolt. Take care that the yoke is firmly held
by the vise and apply downward pressure on the lever smoothly.
Tighten the Nyloc nut firmly and then slowly release the pressure on the lever.
Assemble the nose leg housing
Assemble the top and bottom plates to the spacer with the supplied cap screws clean the
threads, use a drop of Loctite 620 on each cap screw and tighten firmly. Clean the nylon
bushes and the matching holes in the top and bottom plates with Acetone and sand all surfaces
to be bonded and then fit the bushes into the plates, pushing both bushes from the outside in
towards the middle. Align the flats on the bush collars to clear the cap screws.

Fit the assembly onto the nose leg with a retaining collar or yoke bolted to the top and check
for freedom of movement. When you are satisfied that there is no binding, mix a small batch
of flock and flock the bushes into the plates, taking care not to get any flock onto the nose leg.
Use a mixing stick to smooth the flock as shown at above right and leave overnight to cure.
Drawings of the nose leg and nose leg housing follow on the next 2 pages.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear
Fit the nose leg housing
Level the aircraft laterally: a straightedge across the bottom of the front doorframes or across
the front wing attachment lugs will provide a good reference, then pack under the main
wheels as required in order to level the aircraft in the lateral or rolling plane.

5mm

Place a straightedge or ruler under the centre of the fuselage and measure up 5mm. This is the
position for the bottom of the square outer backing plate for the nose gear housing.
Centre the outer backing plate on the lower firewall and drill one top hole only and push a
bolt through, then fit up the nose gear housing and place a digital protractor or a spirit level
across the top of the white bush as shown above and carefully level the nose gear housing.
Once it is level, drill the other top hole and recheck for level then drill the bottom holes and
bolt the nose gear housing in place. You will need to flock the 2 internal braces in place at this
time trim to length then sand and clean the surfaces to be bonded. Mix a small batch of
flock and coat the back of each brace then press into place and secure with 2 x AN4-16A bolts
at the top and 2 x AN4-22A bolts at the bottom and tighten the Nyloc nuts firmly.

10mm

85mm

Drill the holes for the steering links: measure out 85mm from each side of the centre plate and
down 10mm from the bottom side of the top plate and mark and drill a pilot hole, then use a
1 hole saw to drill through the firewall.
Drill the top holes of the internal braces (arrowed in purple above right) from the back of the
firewall and then fit the bolts from the firewall side with 1 penny washer under the head of
each bolt and a normal washer and Nyloc nut on the inside of the firewall.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear
Assemble the nose wheel
Press a bearing into each side of
the hub until the bearing reaches
the bottom of the machined hole
use a large socket or piece of
heavy tube that is slightly
smaller in diameter than the
outside of the bearing to press
against the outer rim of the
bearing. A small hand press or a
bench vise would be ideal for the
purpose. Do not press against
the inner rim of the bearing
this can damage the bearing.
Fit the bearing spacers into the
bearings with a drop of Loctite 480 and slide the axle through the spacers.
Check each end of the axle and spacer: both ends should be exactly level. If this is not the
case then grind either the axle or the spacer until they are level. If the width of the wheel and
spacers are wider than the length of the axle this will put a side load of the wheel bearings.
Partially inflate the inner tube with the valve out, then liberally coat the tube with talcum
powder, fit it into the tyre and place the tyre on the hub with the valve stem facing up and then
fit the rim to the hub, making sure that the valve stem is through the hole in the rim, bolt the
rim to the hub, taking care not to pinch the inner tube, and inflate the tyre to 35 PSI.
A drawing of the nose wheel can be found on the next page.
Fit the nose leg and nose wheel
Slide the nose leg up into the nose leg
housing with the steering yoke (arrowed but
not shown in photo) fitted over the nose leg
between the top and bottom bushes and with
the arms of the yoke swept back towards the
firewall and fit the nose leg in place with the
retaining collar above the top bush. Secure
the collar to the nose leg with an AN3-22A
bolt and Nyloc nut.
Roll the front wheel into the machined yoke
and fit with the AN4-72 bolt. Use a washer
and castellated nut, tighten the castellated nut
and secure it with a split pin.
The aircraft is now sitting on its own wheels,
however it will still need a trestle under the
empennage until the engine has been fitted in
the next task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Assemble and fit nose gear task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit engine mount and engine

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit engine mount and engine

Objectives of this task:
In this task the engine mount will be fitted to the firewall at the top attach points only, the
engine will be attached to the engine mount, then the engine angle of incidence will be set and
finally the engine mount will be fitted to the bottom attach points on the firewall.
The engine angle of incidence is particularly important, both to the general flying qualities of
the aircraft as well as making the fitting of the cowls more straightforward, and should be set
carefully and precisely. You will need either a portable engine lifter or a few strong friends to
help you mount and position the engine in this task.
From this point on the engine will remain fitted to the fuselage.
Parts required:
Engine mount sets: AN4-20A & -31A bolts plus washers, spacers, rubber mounts
From Card # J10 Firewall, the 4 x 4025094 backing plates (photo below right)
From Card # J23 Engine, the washers and lock nuts in Engine mount hardware
Fit the engine mount to the firewall
Now would be a very good time to paint the engine mount! We prefer gloss black.
Drill the top engine mounting holes through the stainless steel firewall plate from the inside,
through the pre-drilled holes in the plywood firewall that you cleaned in the previous task.

Attach the engine mount to the firewall with the top (AN4-20A) bolts only: fit each bolt from
the front, through the mount, firewall, and the backing plate (shown
at right) and fit a washer and Nyloc nut.
Tighten the Nyloc nut firmly but without crushing the plywood
firewall. Do not bolt the bottom of the engine mount to the firewall
at this stage; leave it until the engine angle of incidence has been
set. Note that the bottom centre section of the engine mount rests
against the penny washers of the top internal brace bolts but does
not rest on the heads of the bolts.
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Backing plate viewed from

back of firewall

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit engine mount and engine
Fit the engine to the engine mount
Fit the female rubbers to the top mounts and the machined spacers and male rubbers to the
bottom mounts refer to the drawing on the next page for details.
With the rear of the aircraft supported and with the main wheels chocked, lift the engine into
position and fit the rear engine mount plate onto the bottom engine mounts first: you may
need to tilt the engine slightly down at the front to do this. Use AN4-31A bolts fed from the
rear of the mounts with the lock nuts towards the
front.
Lift the front of the engine and fit the top rear engine
mount plate onto the top mounts and fit the male
rubbers, machined washers, flat washers and lock
nuts to both top mounts. Fit the female rubbers, flat
washers and lock nuts to both bottom mounts. Note
that these are steel lock nuts and not Nylocs.
It may be necessary to compress the mount rubbers
in order to get the steel lock nuts on: use a G clamp
or similar and clamp across a socket on the head of
the bolt and the side of the machined washer beside
the steel lock nut, as shown at right. The clamping points have been circled in yellow.
Torque each of the 4 steel lock nuts to 11 Nm (8 foot pounds).
Level the aircraft
For the next step the aircraft must be absolutely level in both the lateral (rolling) and
longitudinal (pitching) planes.

Lateral plane: place a 3 block on the top of each front wing mounting lug and place a spirit
level or a digital protractor across the top of the cabin so that it rests on both blocks. Pack the
main wheels as required to level the aircraft.
Longitudinal plane: the objective is to level the fuselage along the waterline the line of
the join between the upper and lower sections of the fuselage. Use a spirit level or a digital
protractor and pack under the nose wheel or empennage until the waterline is level.
Once the aircraft is satisfactorily levelled make sure it stays that way: chock the wheels and
consider lashing the empennage to the packing with a tie-down strap.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit engine mount and engine
Set the engine angle of incidence
In this step the engine will be adjusted until a level or digital protractor (pictured below)
placed on the top of the crankcase reads completely level fore and aft, which indicates an
angle of incidence of 0 (zero degrees).
In our factory we usually find that the angle of incidence is correct with the standard mount,
however the following procedure should still be followed.

Recheck that the aircraft is completely level and then measure the angle of incidence and use
a hydraulic jack under the crankcase to lift the front of the engine to a point where the engine
has a very slight (0.5 if using a digital protractor) nose-up attitude then drill the bottom
engine mount holes through the firewall and fit the AN4-20A bolts, backing plates, washers
and Nyloc nuts. Now release the jack and recheck the angle of incidence. If the engine is
slightly down at the front you can fit up to a maximum of 3 penny washers under each bottom
engine mount to adjust the angle of incidence. Bear in mind that a small adjustment at the
firewall will result in a large change at the propeller flange.
Check the lateral angle of the engine while the aircraft is completely level: it should be very
close to level.
Once youre happy with the alignment you can permanently install the lower engine mount
bolts, taking care to remember the backing plate (pictured on the first page of this task), and
tightening the Nyloc nuts enough to hold firmly but without crushing the plywood firewall.
If penny washer spacers were used on the lower engine mounts then equivalent thickness
spacers will need to be used behind the bottom bar on the mount. Drill these mounting holes
at 3/16, fit the appropriate spacers if required, and finally fit 2 x AN3 bolts through the
bottom bar and the firewall and fit washers and Nyloc nuts.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit engine mount and engine
task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller flange extension

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller flange extension

Objectives of this task:
To remove the universal propeller flange that is shipped with the engine and fit the modelspecific propeller flange extension to the crankshaft. While this is a straightforward
mechanical task it is most definitely a critical task and care must be taken.
The universal propeller flange is lock wired in place, however the depth of the propeller
flange extension makes the use of lock wire almost impossible and so we use a strong Loctite
to keep the flange securely fitted. This means that the cleanliness of all threads is critical.
This task will require 2 people: 1 to stop the crankshaft from moving and 1 to loosen and later
tighten the cap screws. This task is intended to be performed by the kit builder with the engine
mounted to the aircraft. In the factory we do this task while the engine is fitted to a mobile
engine stand so some of the photos will be slightly different to what the kit builder could
expect to see.
Materials and equipment required:
Loctite 620 and lockwire
Thread cleaner Loctite 7471 or Acetone
5/16 Hex drive socket, or alternately a 5/16 Allen key cut straight and fitted to a 5/16
socket
Torque wrench, set to 30 ft/lbs or 40 Nm
Remove the universal flange

The universal flange is held in place by 6 x 3/8 UNF Allen head cap screws, all of which will
be reused.
Cut and remove the lock wire from the 6 cap screws, then heat the cap screws with a heat gun
in order to loosen the Loctite.
Lock the engine from turning by holding a large blade screwdriver in the ring gear teeth
between the starter motor and the adjacent alloy block (circled in the photo above right).
Crack each cap screw in turn to break the Loctite seal and remove each cap screw and the
related washer.
Set the cap screws and washers aside for later use.
Remove the flange and discard.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller flange extension
Clean and prepare the screws and hub

Clean the cap screw threads with a wire brush make sure that there is no residual Loctite in
the threads. Clean all threads with cleaning solvent (Loctite 7471 cleaner or Acetone) and dry.
Run a 3/8 UNF flat bottomed tap all the way into each bolt hole in the hub, apply a cleaning
solvent (Loctite cleaner or Acetone) into each hole and then blow dry with compressed air.
Check that each thread is absolutely clean and dry before proceeding.
Fit the propeller flange extension
Set your torque wrench to 30 ft/lbs or 40 Nm and place it on top of the engine.

Apply a few drops of Loctite 620 to each screw

hole, place the propeller flange extension on the
hub and fit the 6 cap screws and washers.
Have your helper lock the engine from turning and
tighten all the cap screws firmly then torque each
cap screw to 30 ft/lbs or 40 Nm, working in a crisscross pattern as shown at right. Re-check each cap
screw, applying steady pressure on the torque
wrench until the torque value is reached.
Re-check the torque values again and then lockwire
each pair of cap screws together. Lockwiring cap
screws in extended propeller flanges is very
difficult. Jabiru only lockwire cap screws in
standard propeller flanges.

4
2

6
5

1
3

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage >Firewall forward>Fit propeller flange extension

task.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit oil cooler

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit oil cooler

Objectives of this task:
In this task the oil cooler will be fitted to the base of the sump, the oil filter adapter will be
fitted under the oil filter and the whole assembly plumbed up and the oil overflow bottle will
be fitted to the firewall. There are 2 types of oil overflow bottles, fibreglass moulding or a
plastic moulding.
Fireproof sleeving will be used to protect the oil lines.
Materials required:
Card # J24 Oil Cooler Kit
Pipe sealing compound (rated working pressure of 2.6 Mpa, Holdtite brand or similar)
Mount the oil cooler

Mount the rails to the sump: fit the 3/16 cap screws through a flat washer and the rail and
into the threaded holes in the sump and tighten. Drill each of the 4 large holes in the cooler
out to 9/16 and fit a rubber grommet, then fit a Bundy tube in the bolt hole and mount the
cooler to the rails using AN3 bolts fitted from the rear and steel lock nuts with a penny washer
under each lock nut as shown above. Note that the penny washer will need one side cut away.

Refer to the drawing on the next page for detail.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit oil cooler
Fit the oil lines
Fit the 2 brass male barb fittings to the inlet and outlet of the cooler - apply a smear of pipe
sealing compound to the threads and tighten each fitting firmly into the cooler. Take care not
to over tighten these fittings, as the brass threads will strip if excess pressure is applied.
Remove the spin-on oil filter and fit the
adaptor (circled at right) under it with the Oring side towards the engine block. Apply a
smear of clean engine oil to the O-rings on
the adaptor and the oil filter, refit the oil filter
and tighten gently until resistance is felt as
the seal first contacts the housing and then
tighten exactly one full turn from that point.
Absolute cleanliness is required here: there
must be no dirt or contaminants anywhere
near the oil filter or adaptor fitting area.
Size the blue oil lines by holding one end beside the fitting on the right-hand side of the oil
cooler and cutting to length to fit the rear adaptor fitting. Allow for a smooth routing.
Repeat the process for the other side of the oil cooler to the front adaptor fitting and then cut 2
lengths of fireproof sleeve to the same length as the oil lines and fit them over the oil lines.
The fireproof sleeve can be difficult to fit, but blowing compressed air into the gap between
the oil line and the sleeve while pulling the sleeve over the oil line works rather well.

Roll the last inch or so of the fireproof sleeve back on each end as shown above left and fit
each oil line into place, securing each end with the supplied hose clamp and cutting off the
excess length of the hose clamp screw.
Now roll the fireproof sleeve over the hose clamp and lock wire into place as shown in the
photo above right, using a double loop and twisting off.
This provides fireproofing to the full length of each oil line.
The completed oil line arrangement is shown on the next page.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit oil cooler

Completed oil line arrangement between the adaptor and the oil cooler

Oil overflow bottle

Fibreglass moulded oil bottle mounting.
The oil overflow bottle, as shown in
the photo on the right, fits into a
fibreglass bracket that is mounted on
the lower right side of the firewall.
Position the oil bottle with the
bracket fitted so that the inlet line
from the engine oil filler will curve
smoothly down to the top fitting in
the oil bottle without rubbing against
the inside of the cowl, and so that the
outlet from the oil bottle can be
routed over the lower engine mount
as shown in the photo at right.

Inlet

Outlet

Bracket

Mark the position of the bracket,

then remove the oil bottle from the
bracket and drill 2 x 5/32 holes in
the flat back part of the bracket.
Place the bracket on the marks and
drill through the firewall and fit the
bracket with 2 x 5/32 rivets with
plain washers behind.

Oil bottle

Fibreglass Oil overflow bottle shown final fitted

Remove the oil bottle and set aside for later fitting in the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall
forward>Final assembly task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit oil cooler
Plastic moulded oil bottle mounting.
The oil overflow bottle, plastic
moulded type, as shown in the
photo on the right, is mounted to
the firewall with a saddle clamp
on the lower outlet, on the lower
right side of the firewall. The
outlet is identified by an
aluminium tube inserted in the
connection stub, and is the larger
diameter of the 2 connecting
stubs.

Inlet

Position the oil bottle so that the

inlet line from the engine oil filler
will curve smoothly down to the
top fitting in the oil bottle without
rubbing against the inside of the
cowl, and so that the outlet at the
bottom can be routed into the
cutaway in the firewall as shown
in the photo at right.
Place the saddle over the lower oil
bottle outlet and mark the position
to drill through the firewall to fit
the saddle clamp with 2 self
tapping screws 6G x 1/2" long.

Outlet directed to
cutaway in firewall

Saddle Clamp

Plastic moulded oil bottle

Remove the oil bottle and set aside for later fitting in the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall
forward>Final assembly task.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit oil cooler task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fuel pump fittings

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fuel pump fittings

Objectives of this task:
In this task the drip tray will be prepared and fitted to the fuel pump and then the fuel lines
will be fitted from the firewall fitting to the fuel pump and then to the carburettor.
Materials required:
5-minute Araldite and flock
Loctite 518 gasket sealant, lock wire
Card #11 Fuel components, Card #15 Spares
Fit the fuel pump drip tray
Remove the drip tray (shown circled in the photo at bottom right) from the Spares card and
prepare it: drill a hole in right rear corner, which will be the lowest point when the tray is
fitted, and flock the drain fitting into place with 5-minute Araldite and flock.
Put a piece of tape over the inside of the tray and over the fitting and leave to cure.

Remove the fuel pump from the engine

Clean the gasket and the spacer block

Fit the fuel drip tray to the engine-driven fuel

pump: remove the fuel pump carefully and
along with the fibre spacer block, leaving the
gasket on the engine block.
Clean the threads of the cap screws
thoroughly and apply a drop of Loctite 262 to
each screw.
Smear some gasket cement on both sides of
the spacer block and then refit the whole
assembly: hold it together with the Allen
head cap screws through a flat washer, the
drip tray, the pump flange, the spacer block
and the gasket and screw into the engine
block and tighten the cap screws firmly.
Re-fit the fuel pump with the drip tray underneath
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fuel pump fittings
Fit the fuel lines and drain hoses
The fuel lines are connected in 2 runs: from the firewall fitting to the engine-driven fuel
pump; and from the engine-driven fuel pump to the carburettor fuel inlet fitting. If you are
fitting a fuel flow or fuel pressure sensor it should be inserted into the fuel line between the
fuel pump and the carburettor at a point near the midpoint of the line.
Cut some black fuel line to length for each run, allowing enough length for the fuel line to be
routed smoothly between each pair of fittings. Cut some fireproof sleeving to the same length
as each fuel line. Slip the fireproof sleeving over the fuel lines and roll the ends back so that
you can fit the hose clamp over each end of the fuel line. Make sure that each fuel line is clear
by blowing through it to remove any dust or debris before fitting.
Note that the fuel pump inlet is on the
side of the pump and the outlet is on the
top of the pump as pictured at right.

Fuel out
Fuel in

Use the flow arrows in the 2 photos on

this page to help you visualise the fuel
flow to and from the fuel pump.

Breather

Fit the top fuel line into place: this line

runs from the top fitting on the fuel pump
to the fuel inlet fitting on the carburettor.

Drain

Fit the lower fuel line into place: this line

runs from the fuel fitting on the firewall to
the side fitting on the fuel pump.

Fuel to
carb

Fuel from
pump to carb

Fuel out

Fuel in
Breather

Drain
Fuel from firewall
fitting to pump

Roll the fireproof sleeving over the hose clamps and lock-wire the sleeve into place using a
double loop of lock wire around both sides of the hose clamp.
Fit the fuel breather and fuel pump drain (clear) hoses, route back to the firewall and zip tie to
the lower right engine mount tube and leave enough length for the hoses can be routed back to
the firewall and end 50mm below the bottom of the firewall step.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Connect fuel pump task.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit ram air cooling ducts

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit ram air cooling ducts

Objectives of this task:
In this task the ram air cooling ducts will be assembled and fitted to the engine.
The final step, where the front of the ducts are trimmed to length to match the bottom
cowling, cannot be performed until the bottom cowling has been fitted to the fuselage and so
that step is included as part of the Fit cowling task that follows this task.
Air enters the front of the ducts and is routed up by low air dams, through the fins on the
cylinder heads and barrels and then downwards at the rear by a pre-fitted angled baffle.
An aluminium tube directs cooling air from each duct to the nearest magneto coil.
Materials required:
Epoxy resin and AF303 glass fibre cloth (from the bag labelled Extra Cloth)
5-minute Araldite and flock
Assemble the ducts
Use a length of masking tape on the
join line at the bottom of each duct
inlet to hold the join firm and prevent
Araldite/flock from leaking through.
Mix a small batch of 5-minute
Araldite and flock and apply to the top
of each join as shown at right:

Next the front air dams will need to be cut to size. Take the length of glass fibre sheet with the
curved edge, hold it against the rear of the duct inlet with the curve towards the top rear of the
duct and mark around the bottom of the duct then cut to shape as shown above.
Tape the air dam into place. Mix a small batch of 5-minute Araldite and flock and use it to fix
the air dam into place. Leave to cure, then sand away any rough edges.
Remove the masking tape and roughen the underside of the duct and the back of the air dam.
Mix a small batch of resin and brush 2 layers of AF303 glass fibre cloth to the underside of
each duct, covering the join line and wrapping up around the back edge of the air dam.
Leave overnight to cure.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit ram air cooling ducts
Test fit the ducts

Oil line

Fitting the ducts will require adjustments to be made in several areas: firstly the oil line to the
rockers will need to be accommodated, then the rear baffle and the air dams will need to be
adjusted and then the sequence repeated perhaps 2 or 3 times until the fit is correct.
Remove the front and rear rocker cover cap screws (circled top), test fit the duct and mark the
locations for the cutouts around the oil line (arrowed above). File out a notch for the oil line
until the duct clears it by 1-2mm all round. Leave the cap screws out and set aside until the
final fitting of the ducts is complete.

Right-hand duct

Left-hand duct

The front air dams will need to be trimmed to fit around the fins on the cylinder heads and
barrels. The final fit must have the air dams only just touching the fins as shown above.
It may take few trial fits so take your time and get the fit just right.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit ram air cooling ducts

Left-hand duct, shown

here upside down.
The pencil marking is
on the rear baffle

The baffles at the rear of each duct will need to be trimmed to allow the duct to sit down
correctly. Test fit and trim until the inside of the duct sits down on the barrels, between the
fins as shown above right, and the outside sits just on the top of the rocker covers.
Once the rear baffle and air dams are fitting correctly you can mark and drill both of the
rocker cover holes (circled in the photo at the top of the previous page) to and temporarily
mount both ducts using the cap screws.
Mark a point on the inside of the duct directly above
each front cylinder and drill a 3/32 hole, then flock
and rivet the supplied right angle spring bracket into
place as shown at right, placing a washer on the rivet
inside the duct.
Fit a loop of lock wire around the cylinder between the
third and fourth fin and through the bottom of the
spring and twist it off.
The spring may be unhooked at the bracket end to
remove the duct.

Fitted left-hand duct

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit ram air cooling ducts
Fit the magneto coil cooling tubes

Left-hand magneto
coil cut the tube
parallel to the side of
the coil

Starting with the left-hand duct, drill a hole at the top centre rear of the duct and slip the
curved aluminium tube into place until the mark on the tube reaches the duct. Aim the lower
end of the tube at the centre of the left-hand magneto coil, mark the tube at an angle parallel
to the side of the coil, remove the tube and cut along the mark. Shorten the top end of the tube
as required it should fit about 1 to 2 (40-50mm) inside the duct.
Refit the tube to the duct and hold it in position with masking tape. Mix a small batch of 5minute Araldite and flock and fix the tube to the duct. Leave to cure, then remove the duct
and apply flock around the tube on the inside of the duct to provide strength. Leave to cure.
Repeat the procedure on the right-hand duct:
Refit both ducts and leave them in place.

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit ram air cooling ducts task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windscreen

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windscreen
The windscreen is an integral structural component of the airframe, providing strength and
rigidity, and the correct fitting method is very important.
The windscreen is made from strong but brittle Perspex and care
must be taken to avoid marking or cracking the windscreen while it
is being fitted. The use of sharp or new drill bits must be avoided:
use an old drill bit and blunt it before use by drilling into some
concrete, and then grip the bit loosely with a pair of pliers while
running the drill (see photo at right) to remove any roughness from
the flutes that might bind and cause damage to the Perspex.
Any shaping of the windscreen that may be required must be done with an 80 grit sanding
disc, and you must never use a jigsaw. Photos are of a J200: the same process applies to all.
Materials required:
Epoxy resin and flock
x adhesive-backed foam strip (not included in kit)
Pre fit the windscreen

Start by carefully sanding away all of the gel coat from the joggle, then fit a length of the
foam strip around the very inside of the joggle (the grey line in the photo above right) this
will keep the flock from making a messy line around the inside of the windscreen and give a
nice clean edge when the windscreen has been flocked into place.

Test fit the windscreen, holding it in place temporarily with a strip of cloth tape on each side
as shown above. The arrows show the side screw positioning refer to next page.
Note that the protective plastic cover has been folded back from the edges of the windscreen.
Check around the entire perimeter of the windscreen for any areas where the Perspex does not
fit neatly inside of the joggle and carefully sand away the Perspex until it fits. In most cases
the windscreen will fit correctly without any alteration, but nonetheless check carefully.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windscreen
Drill the screw holes

With the windscreen still held firmly in place by the tape, the next step is to drill a series of
11/64 holes around the perimeter at the positions shown above. Note that 11/64 is slightly
bigger than the screws this is to make sure that the threads will not bind in the holes and
possibly chip or break the Perspex.
Drill slowly with a blunt drill bit and dont lean on the drill - let the bit do the work.
The holes are drilled well in from the edge of the Perspex at a point where they just miss the
foam tape this gives the maximum amount of meat for the screws to grab. Note that the
bulk of the structural strength is provided by the flock: the main purpose of the screws is to
hold the windscreen firmly and accurately in place while the flock cures.
Start by drilling at each corner, then drill halfway between each corner and then drill halfway
between those holes until you have the holes as shown above and on the previous page.
Once all of the holes have been drilled they will each need to be countersunk to a depth where
the head of each countersunk M4 x 12 screw will be just below the surface of the Perspex.
Prepare the windscreen
Remove the windscreen carefully and clean away any burrs from around the holes and blow
away any dust and debris from the joggle.
Place the windscreen face down on the bubble wrap
packing material, taking care not to allow anything to
scratch the surface, and sand around the entire inside
edge with emery tape roughen to a point level with the
inside of the bolt holes.
By holding the emery tape as shown you can use your
finger to control the width of the sanded area.
When the sanding is complete blow away the dust and
then use a clean soft cloth and wipe right around the
windscreen. Do not use any cleaning agents.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windscreen
Fit the windscreen

Mix 160 grams of flock and fill the entire joggle up to the level of the foam strip. Carefully
place the windscreen onto the bed of flock start at one corner and position the windscreen
with a rivet or similar to get the alignment of the holes and then lower it into position.
Once the windscreen is in place start fitting the screws and locknuts, working from the
corners first and then the middle screws and so on in much the same manner as the holes were
drilled. Take care not to over tighten the screws, tighten them just enough so that the edge of
the windscreen is level with the adjacent fuselage.
Check all around to see that the flock has keyed to the
windscreen: the sanded surface of the windscreen
edge will appear to go clear with no bubbles when the
flock is in full contact with it. It may be necessary to
gently squeeze the windscreen to remove any
bubbles, although if you have filled the joggle with
flock there should be full contact anyway.
In the photo at right you can see that the flock is in
full contact all the way around. Note the flock has
been wiped off level at the outside of the joggle and
that there is no flock at all on the surface of the
windscreen.
When you are satisfied that the windscreen is positioned correctly wipe away the excess flock
with a clean mixing stick, taking care not to smear any resin or flock over the windscreen:
always wipe out and away from the windscreen. Do not use any cleaning agents; use only a
clean soft cloth.
Leave overnight to cure.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windscreen task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines

Objectives of this task:
The rudder, elevator, elevator trim cables, static line and VHF antenna cable, along with any
electrical wiring, will be routed from the empennage to the cockpit for later connection.
The trim cable will be routed from the front edge of the pilots seat and into the longitudinal
rib and out the bottom of the empennage, the elevator cable will be routed from the console
through the longitudinal rib and out the rear of the empennage, and the rudder cable will be
routed beside and into the longitudinal rib and out of the lower console while the rear of the
cable runs up through the fin stub.
Cable connections will be performed in the appropriate tasks later in this manual.
Materials required:
Cloth tape

Identify the cables

Each control cable is fitted with a white identification tag permanently attached and a bright
orange identification tag just beside it. In every case these tags identify not only the cable but
also the inboard or control end of the cable and you should plan to have the tagged ends end
up inside the cabin when each cable is finally fitted.

Identify the exit holes in the console

All electrical cabling and the fuel line exit the console at the top front of the lower console,
just before the rudder pedals. This slot was enlarged in the Prepare fuselage task.
The trim cable exits the console at the right front of the pilots seat against the console.
The elevator cable exits the console from the right hand side of the centre armrest.
The rudder cable exits the console midway between the front of the pilots seat and the
firewall just above the floor.

Run the electrical cabling and static tube

The rudder cable will be used to push all of the electrical
cabling through from the rear of the fuselage and through
the holes in the ribs then into the lower longitudinal rib to
the wiring hole in the lower forward top of the console.
Use cloth tape to bundle all electrical cabling (2 fuel pump
wires, VHF antenna cable, strobe light wires (if fitted)) and
static tube to the end of the elevator cable as shown above
right. You may want to include a drawstring for any wiring that you decide to add later.
Feed the bundle in from the rear and through the holes in the ribs beside the lower
longitudinal rib and into the slot in the lower longitudinal rib under the lateral beam behind
the seats and into the lower forward part of the console.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines
When the bundle is visible in the cable hole at the lower front
of the console pull it through until the cloth tape can be
removed, then withdraw the rudder cable slightly while
holding the electrical cables and the static tube from moving
back tape them to the side of the console if necessary.
Pull the electrical cables and the static tube up until they are
level with the top of the windscreen this will give enough
length for later connection.
Use a wire hook to pull the static tube down
though the rearmost slot underneath the
empennage as shown at right.
The static tube from the static probe in the
vertical fin will be routed down and through
the same slot and a joiner will connect the 2
tubes both tubes can be seen in the photo at
right, tied together to prevent them slipping
back into the empennage.
The VHF antenna cable and the strobe wiring can be left trailing out the rear of the fuselage at
this point they will later be routed up into the vertical fin. The 2 fuel pump wires can be
coiled up behind the seats for later fitting into the header tank enclosure, and any wingtip
strobe wiring can be coiled in the same position for later connection.

Fit the trim cable

Feed the trim cable (untagged end first) in
though the hole in the front edge of the
pilots seat and feed it back into the
longitudinal rib (you may need to use a wire
hook through the access slot behind the seats
to lift the cable over the main gear hump)
until it can be seen though the front slot
under the empennage, then hook it out of that
slot (the rear of the trim cable can be seen in
the photo above right) and pull it through
until it is roughly level with the trim horn.

Fit the elevator cable

Feed the elevator cable (untagged end first)
into the slot on the right-hand side of the
armrest and back though the longitudinal rib.
You may need to use a wire hook through the
access slot behind the seats to lift the cable
over the main gear hump.
Feed the cable back and out the T shaped
hole at the lower rear of the empennage.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines
Clamp the elevator cable into place using the
supplied clamp bracket, taking care to fit the
pressed locating section of the clamp in the
groove around the outer cable. The clamp
consists of a saddle and a backing plate, and
the whole clamp must be fitted onto a tapered
profile plate with the thin end of the wedge
facing the rear of the aircraft and secured to
the fuselage by 2 x AN3-6A bolts and Nyloc
nuts. Tighten firmly.

Fit the rudder cable

The rudder cable was partly fitted with the
electrical cabling, so all that is left to do is to
feed the rear of the cable up and out of the
slot on the right hand side of the fin stub, as
shown at right: the photo has been taken from
the rear of the empennage looking forward.
The front of the rudder cable can be seen
inside the console near the rudder slot on the
left-hand side of the lower console, so use a
hook to pull it through the slot and pull it
about 150mm through and into the cabin
footwell.

Rudder
cable

Static
line

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin

Objectives of this task:
To fit the vertical tail fin to the fuselage, including fitting the static probe, static tube, optional
strobe light wiring and the VHF antenna coax cable.
Materials and equipment required:
Card # J3 Rudder for the
VHF antenna
Glass cloth and peel cloth
bags labelled: Tail Fin and
Outer Reo Tail Fin
Epoxy resin and flock
5-minute Araldite and flock
2 lengths of 2 aluminium
angle, waxed, each one at
least the length of the join
Plumb bob and string line
Builders level

Completed vertical fin fitted to the fuselage

Fit the spar extender

Spar extender

Tail spar

Sand the matching surfaces of the pre-fitted tail spar and the spar extender. Make sure that the
2 pieces match and then fix the spar extender in place with 5-Minute Araldite.
When the Araldite has cured sand the front and back surfaces of the spar, mix a batch of resin
and coat both surfaces and then brush on 3 layers of AF303 glass fibre cloth to each surface
(front and back) and finish with a layer of peel cloth.
When ready to fit the fin remove the peel cloth and carefully trim the glass cloth from the
sides of the extended tail spar. A heat gun will make the edges of the cloth easier to trim with
a sharp knife.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin
Prepare the vertical fin
Start by laying the vertical fin on its side and drilling out
the marked inspection hole on the left-hand side with a hole
saw.
Turn the vertical fin
over and cut out the
marked slot for the
rudder cable: drill each
end of the slot then use
a jigsaw to join the two holes.
Remove any burrs the exact sizing of the hole and slot
will be finalized once the vertical fin has been fitted into
place.
Remove the peel cloth from both sides of the joining surface. Use a scraper to remove any
edge strips of the peel cloth that have not peeled off cleanly.

Using a round file, enlarge the static probe mount hole in the top front of the fin it needs to
be large enough to pass the static tube and draw wire through easily. The finished hole size is
not critical. Take care not to file through the pre-installed drawstring: for this reason using a
drill is not recommended. If fitting the optional strobe to the top of the fin then you should fit
the mounting base now: flock the base to the forward top of the fin and screw in place.
Pull the static tube and the VHF cable through the fin
Lay the vertical fin beside the fuselage on trestles set at about the same height as the fin
mounting stub. Lay the strake across the mounting stub.
Locate the drawstring inside the fin that will be used for the VHF cable and the static tube it
is tied in a loop around the internal foam rib. Cut the bottom of the loop to separate the
drawstring into 2 parts: the static tube/strobe wiring and the VHF cable.
Run the static tube/strobe wiring up from the
fuselage into the rear section of the fin, through
the hole in the internal foam rib and into the front
section of the fin do not let the static tube lay
under the rib or it will be squashed against the
stub when the fin is fitted. This is critical!
Tie a length of wire to the static tube drawstring
and pull it through the friction of the static tube
being pulled may cause a string to break.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Through
here:
Static
tube

NOT
under
here!
Front:

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin
Tie the drawstring to the VHF cable and the draw wire to the static tube/strobe wiring. The
photos below show how: loop the draw string or wire around the cable or tube to be pulled
then tape the end of the draw wire or string so that when it is pulled it will tighten the knot.
Tape the end of the cable or tube to be pulled to streamline it and avoid it catching on
anything. Cloth tape is stronger than masking tape and is recommended for this purpose.

Pull the static tube/strobe wiring and the VHF cable through the fin and out of their respective
holes, then tie a knot or tape a mixing stick across the end at right angles to prevent them
sliding back inside the fin.
Test fit the vertical fin
Tape the rudder cable threads then push the cable forwards until it can be tucked inside the
slot in the mounting stub. Lift the fin up and over the tail spar and slide the fin down into
place. You may have to trim as small amount out of the fuselage behind the tail spar to clear
the fin spar. A jigsaw is ideal for this task.

Check the fit along the entire joining line and mark and remove as required to achieve a good
fit. Take extra care to ensure that the join at the front of the strake (at the yellow arrow in the
photo below) is smooth so that there is one continuous line along the entire length of the
strake if there is any discontinuity it will look extremely disappointing when paint is applied
so take care to get it exactly right at this time.
Too high here

Remove from
here

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin
Level the aircraft
Because the alignment of the vertical fin is important the aircraft should be fixed in a wings
level attitude prior to the final fit. Place a 3 block on the top of each front wing mounting
lug and place a spirit level across the top of the cabin so that it rests on both blocks. Pack the
main wheels as required to level the aircraft.

Fit the vertical fin

You will need a second person to help you position and fit the vertical fin.
When you are satisfied that the fin will fit correctly, prepare the mounting stub on the fuselage
by sanding all of the gel coat from the surface of the joggle.
Lightly sand the inner surface of the vertical fin
and the mating surfaces of the tail spar and fin
spar.
Mix a batch of resin and carefully coat all
surfaces to be joined. Add flock and mix, then
apply a 3 5mm coat to one side of all surfaces to
be joined: both sides of the mounting stub and the
back of the tail spar.
Do not be overly concerned about getting a precisely even layer of flock the pressure of the
2 surfaces being squeezed together will ensure that the flock is evenly distributed.
With one person holding each side of the vertical fin, lift the fin into position and lower it
down while holding the sides of the fin apart as shown below.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin
Take care not to let the fin just slide down
into place because it will push all the flock
out of the join, and do not let the fin slide
down past the joggle! You may want to fit
2 x self-tapping screws at either side of the
rear of the empennage just where the
joggle steps out to prevent this happening.
When the fin is all the way down push the
fin all the way forward and allow the sides
to push in and onto the flock. Check the fit,
particularly at the strake/fuselage join.
Tie a plumb bob to a string line and fix the
string line to the top of the vertical fin then
align the fin until it is precisely vertical:
the string line should be exactly in the centre of the fin when viewed from the rear. Recheck
this vertical alignment at every step from here on.
Once the alignment is correct, secure the fin in
position. You could use a strip of heavy
adhesive tape from the outside edge of the
horizontal fin, over the top of the vertical fin
and down to the other side of the horizontal fin.
Recheck the vertical alignment.
Now hold the fin forward and fix the fin spar to
the tail spar with 2 self-tapping screws as
shown at right. Recheck the vertical alignment.
Rivet the front of the strake into place with a
countersunk pop rivet at each side of the strake
and then rivet at each side of the inspection hole and the rudder cable and remove the selftapping screws. Recheck the vertical alignment.
Wax one side of each of 2 lengths of aluminium channel so that the flock will not stick and
place as a rail along each side the full length of the join line and secure with clamps as shown
below. Recheck the vertical alignment. Leave overnight to cure.

Next day remove the aluminium channels and the peel cloth, then use a hole saw to open the
inspection hole and a drill and jigsaw to recut the rudder cable slot. File out any rough edges.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin
Fit the VHF antenna

15mm

Lower
section
flock

Ensure that the VHF coax cable exit hole is on the hinge (left-hand) side of the vertical fin
elongate the hole with a file if it is not. Sand the back of the lower section of the VHF antenna
and place it so that it is exactly 15mm below the upper section and fix it in place with 5minute Araldite.
Note that the factory fitted upper section of the antenna has been offset slightly to the left to
allow for rudder movement: keep the lower section of the antenna exactly in line vertically
with the upper section.
Ensure that the threaded hole for the electrical connection is at the top of the lower section as
shown above right.
Mix some resin and lay up 2 pieces of glass fibre cloth across each section of the antenna in 3
places, using flock to fill the gaps at each side of the antenna before placing the cloth. Leave
overnight to cure.
Next day, shorten the VHF coax cable to length, and fit ferrite toroids, crimp 4.5mm electrical
ring terminal connectors to the inner cable and the outer coax sheath and fit heat shrink tubing
over the terminal joins, as shown in the sketch below.

Screw the inner cable to the TOP section and the braided coax sheath to the LOWER section.
Tuck any excess cable back into the vertical fin and seal completely with silicone sealant.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical tail fin
Fit the static probe assembly
Assemble the static probe: using a drop of Loctite fit the bullet-nose end to the static tube,
making sure that the vent hole (circled) will be horizontal when the static probe is installed.

Put a smear of super glue around the base of the static tube then slide the PVC tube over the
base of the static tube by at least 25mm and fix firmly in place with 2 lock wire ties.
Take particular care that the PVC tube is well secured to the static tube because once the static
probe assembly has been flocked in place there will be no access for repair work.
Push the static probe assembly back into the hole at the front top of the vertical fin so that the
static probe assembly is parallel with the top of the vertical fin and centred laterally in the fin.
Secure the static probe assembly in place with 5-minute Araldite and hold it in place while the
Araldite dries. Mix up a batch of resin and coat the area around the base of the static probe
assembly, and then add some flock to make a firm mix and shape around the base of the static
probe assembly to form a smooth transition from the static probe to the fin. Leave to cure
overnight and then sand to a smooth tapered finish.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit vertical fin task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator
Objectives of this task:
To fit the elevator to the horizontal stabiliser, to fit the trim tabs to the elevator and the end
caps to the elevator and the horizontal stabiliser.
This task is performed on trestles prior to the fitting of the horizontal stabiliser to the fuselage.
The trim tabs and end caps may be fitted after the horizontal stabiliser and elevator have been
fitted to the fuselage, although it is usually easier to fit them as part of this task.
Materials required:
Card # J17 Elevator for the hinges
Epoxy resin and flock
Prepare the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator
Remove the peel cloth from the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator.
Mark the top and bottom of the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator: the horizontal stabiliser
is pre-marked and the drive arm of the elevator must face downwards.
Lay the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator on the work surface in the finished position with
a 1mm gap (use 2 equally spaced mixing sticks) between them. You will need to place a
wedge under the rear of the elevator. Make sure that that the ends are aligned and then
measure and mark a centreline on each surface. Lightly clamp or tape the horizontal stabiliser
and the elevator in position.
Mark and drill the elevator hinges
Mark out the hinge positions: mark the centreline of the tailplane and then use the drawing on
the next page and mark the correct hinge locations, which will be the same on each side.
Place the hinges in those locations with the flat side of each hinge facing upwards and the
hinge pin aligned in the centre of the gap between the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator.
Do not place the hinge flat side down if you do then the holes will not line up correctly
when you come to fit the hinge.

Use a 3/32 drill to make a pilot hole opposite the pin side of each rivet hole: this is to allow
for the slight slope of the hinge at this point, then check that the hinge and hole positioning is
correct and then carefully expand to 3/16 holes.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator
Fit the elevator hinges

Test fit the hinges using 2 Clecoes per side and slide the hinge pin into place as shown above.
Fit the 2 outer hinges first this will hold the elevator in place while the inner hinges are
fitted.
Each hinge pin is inserted from the inside towards the outside of each hinge. Mark the
location of the end of each hinge pin (circled at above right). Check that the elevator can
swing freely with no binding in the hinges: adjust the hinge mounting holes if required.
Check that the horizontal stabiliser to elevator gap is even along the full length then remove
the elevator and hinges. Leave the horizontal stabiliser clamped down.
Sand the flat side of each hinge and the locations where they will be fitted, then mix a small
batch of resin and coat each area. Add flock to the remaining resin and apply a 2mm layer of
flock to each hinge and flock into place using clean Clecoes in the outer holes as before.
Using a 120 countersink bit carefully countersink the 4 inner holes just enough so that a
countersunk rivet head will sit flush with the surface when fitted and rivet the 4 inner holes
with countersunk rivets. Now remove the Clecoes from the outside holes one at a time,
countersink each hole and fit a countersunk rivet until each hinge has 8 countersunk rivets.
Take care to keep flock away from the hinge pins during this step: clean the hinges while the
flock is still wet and then separate both parts (horizontal stabiliser and elevator) and leave
overnight to cure. Clean the Clecoes in acetone after use.
Next day use a rat tail file to make a slot into the horizontal stabiliser at
each hinge pin mark (example circled at above right), fit the hinge pin
and the hinge pin retainer, mark the retainer screw hole and drill a 3/32
hole. Pop rivet an anchor nut under each screw hole using 2 x 3/32
countersunk rivets. The drawing on the previous page shows detail.
Fit the trim tabs
Mark the trim tab locations on the elevator from the dimensions given on the drawing on the
previous page. Note that the trim tabs fit onto the top of the elevator and face downwards.
Clamp the trim tabs in position using spring clamps and drill the 3 holes as shown on the
drawing. Lightly sand the surfaces to be joined, then mix a small batch of resin and coat the
surfaces to be joined. Add flock to the resin and stir in thoroughly, then apply a 2mm layer of
flock to each trim tab and fit into place with 3 x 6G self-tapping screws.
Clean away any excess flock with the mixing stick, leaving a smooth radius around the entire
join, and leave overnight to cure. Next day heat and remove the self-tapping screws.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator
Fit the elevator end caps
Assemble the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator by inserting all of the hinge pins and set
the elevator to a level position.

Use a knife to trim out some of the foam in the end of the elevator and then test fit each end
cap. Ideally you want a gap between the end of the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator end
cap (yellow arrows above) the thickness of 2 mixing sticks. When this gap has been achieved,
align the rear of the end cap with the rear of the elevator and fit with self-tapping screws.
Check that the elevator can swing freely: if there is any binding or rubbing between the end
cap and the horizontal stabiliser locate the source and fix it, either by moving the end cap
position slightly or by sanding away part of the inside of the end cap.
Remove the end caps and sand all surfaces to be joined, then mix a batch of resin and coat the
surfaces to be joined. Add flock to the remaining resin and apply a 2mm layer to the end cap
stub then fit the end cap to the elevator and fix in place with the self-tapping screws. Smooth
away any excess flock with a mixing stick, recheck the alignment and leave overnight to cure.
Next day remove the self-tapping screws.
Fit the horizontal stabiliser end caps
With the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator still assembled, test fit the horizontal stabiliser
end caps: the gap between the elevator end cap and the horizontal stabiliser end cap should
also be the thickness of 2 mixing sticks (green arrows above). When this is correct fit the end
cap with 3 self-tapping screws: 1 at each back corner and 1 at the leading edge. Check for
freedom of movement then remove the end cap and prepare the surfaces and flock the end
cops into place and fix with the self-tapping screws. Smooth away any excess flock with a
mixing stick, recheck the alignment and leave overnight to cure. Next day remove the selftapping screws.
Separate the horizontal stabiliser and the elevator. The horizontal stabiliser will be fitted to the
empennage in the task Pre-paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit horizontal stabiliser and the
elevator will then be fitted to set the up and down stops.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator task.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit horizontal stabiliser

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit horizontal stabiliser

Objectives of this task:
To fit the horizontal stabiliser to the fuselage and glass it in place. Note that the elevator
hinges were fitted in the previous task Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit elevator.
Materials required:
Epoxy resin and flock
Glass fibre cloth and peel cloth in the bag labelled: Horizontal Stabiliser
Steps
1. Level the aircraft
2. Fit the stabiliser
3. Glass the stabiliser

Level the aircraft

The aircraft should be fixed in a wings level attitude prior to fitting. Place a 3 block on the
top of each front wing mounting lug and place a spirit level across the top of the cabin so that
it rests on both blocks. Pack the main wheels as required to level the aircraft.

Clamp a straightedge (a 2 or 3 metre length of aluminium angle works well) across the back
of the door frames at the height of the fuselage join line: ensure that the straightedge is level.
This will be your main reference for aligning the horizontal stabiliser.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit horizontal stabiliser
Fit the stabiliser
Prepare the stabiliser by taping up the inboard elevator hinges to prevent any resin getting into
the hinge pins. From the previous task you will have a marked centreline on the stabiliser: test
fit the stabiliser to the rear of the fuselage using the stabiliser centreline as a lateral location
guide against the fuselage centreline.

Push the stabiliser fully forward into the rear of the fuselage and check that each end of the
stabiliser is an equal distance back from the straightedge use 2 tape measures as shown
circled above, one each side, and carefully move the stabiliser until the measurements are
exactly the same. (The photos above show a 200 series fuselage but the principle is the same.)
Sight along the fuselage from the rear and confirm that the stabiliser is level and lined up with
the straightedge. The chord line of the stabiliser is to be angled down 3 degrees at the leading
edge. Make any adjustments necessary.
When the stabiliser is aligned correctly, secure the stabiliser to the fuselage with self-tapping
screws, using 10 screws per side. These screws will be removed after the stabiliser has been
finally fitted. Run a pencil line around the stabiliser along the fuselage join.
Remove the stabiliser from the fuselage and remove the peel cloth from the rear of the
fuselage, then lightly sand all the surfaces to be joined the pencil line on the stabiliser will
act as a guide for where to sand and where to coat with resin.

Mix a batch of resin and divide into 2 parts. Coat all the surfaces to be joined. Add flock to
one part of the resin and apply a layer to the rear of the fuselage then slide the stabiliser in to
place, pushing it fully forward. Open the join and use a mixing stick to force flock into the
sides and rear of the join, then smooth the flock along the outside. Fix the stabiliser in place
with the self-tapping screws, do a final check of the alignment and leave overnight to cure.
Next day, remove the self-tapping screws that were used to temporarily fix the stabiliser in
place. If they are difficult to remove heating each screw with a soldering iron will help.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit horizontal stabiliser
Glass the stabiliser
In this step the hole at the fuselage join at the front of
the stabiliser will be glassed over with 3 layers of
AF303 glass fibre cloth.
Start by lightly sanding all surfaces, then mix a batch
of resin and coat the surfaces where the glass fibre
cloth will be placed.
Cut 6 squares of AF303 glass fibre cloth (3 per side)
to cover the root of the join as shown at right and
brush each layer into place.
Brush a layer of peel cloth over the join and leave
overnight to cure.
Next day remove the peel cloth and trim away excess
glass fibre ends with a sharp knife.

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit horizontal stabiliser task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder
Objectives of this task:
To fit the rudder to the vertical fin, align the rudder and fit the rudder stops and rudder cable.
Materials required:
Card # J3 Rudder
Epoxy resin and flock
Align the rudder
The first step is to line up the top of the fin and
the top of the rudder: the vertical alignment.
Tape a mixing stick to the fin at the 2 positions
indicated by the yellow arrows at right and sit
the rudder in place.
Place mixing stick(s) as required at the bottom
of the rudder to get an even gap.
It may be necessary to adjust the vertical gap
slightly or sand the top of the fin or rudder in
order to get a precise and visually pleasing
alignment.
Once the vertical alignment is correct the fore
and aft alignment can be addressed: the second
step is to equalise the gaps between the fin and
rudder and the top of the fin and the rudder
horn.
It may be necessary to sand part of the forward
section of the rudder horn and/or the back of
the fin ahead of the rudder horn away, taking
care not to make either area too thin.
Take your time and get this alignment exactly right the tail fin/rudder is a very visible part
of an aircraft and time spent now will reward you with the pleasure of a great looking tail on
your aircraft. Leave the mixing stick alignment spacers taped in place at this stage.
Use the photo of a finished example above as a guide of how the rudder should look.
Pre fit the hinges, mount and swing the rudder
Mark the initial hinge locations onto the vertical fin from the
drawing 2 pages down, then number the hinges on both sides
as well as the matching positions on the fin, including an
arrow for up on each hinge.
Notice that the flat side of the hinge faces out.
With the rudder still in place, hold each hinge centred over the
gap between the vertical fin and the rudder and mark the final
mounting position of each: the hinge pin should sit in the
centre of the fin to rudder gap.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder
Remove the rudder and set it aside while the hinges are fitted to the tail fin.

Hold a hinge in position and drill the top hole only and temporarily fit the hinge in place with
a rivet as shown above, then carefully reposition the hinge so that the hinge pin is parallel to
the back of the rudder and drill the bottom hole and fit a rivet in that hole, then drill the
remaining 2 holes. Repeat this process for each hinge.
Put the rudder back in place using the spacers that you left taped in place. Make sure that the
alignment is still correct, then drill the top hole of the top hinge and fix in place with a rivet,
and then drill a hole in the bottom hinge and fix that in place with a rivet. Repeat the process
until all holes are drilled and each hinge is temporarily fixed to the rudder with 2 rivets.

Test fit the rudder using Clecoes to hold each hinge in the final mounting position, which is
inside the fin and inside the rudder as shown above. Remove the spacers and check that the
rudder can swing freely left and right at least 100mm from the centreline as measured at the
rear of the rudder. If there is any binding locate the source and correct it.
Mark the location of the end of each hinge pin (circled at above left), then remove the rudder
and all hinges.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder
Fit the rudder
The objective now is to refit the rudder as before with Clecoes but with a 2mm bed of flock
under each hinge, do a final check of the alignment and rivet the hinges into place.
Lightly sand the flat side of all hinges and the inside of the fin and the rudder where the
hinges will be placed. Mix a batch of resin and coat the hinge mounting areas inside the fin
and the rudder, then mix in flock and coat the fin half of each hinge. Clecoe the hinges in
place on the fin as before. Now apply flock to the rudder half of each hinge and mount to the
rudder in the same way: with Clecoes in the centre holes.
Check the rudder for free movement and once you are satisfied that there is no binding then
countersink each hole with a 120 countersink bit and rivet each hinge with countersunk rivets
top and bottom holes first, rechecking for free movement at each step, then take the Clecoes
out and countersink and rivet the centre holes. Take care to keep any flock away from the
hinge pins during this step.
Do a final check for free rudder movement, then carefully remove the hinge pins and rudder,
clean away any excess flock with a clean mixing stick and leave overnight to cure.
Next day use a rat-tail file to make a slot into the fin at each hinge pin mark, fit the hinge pin
and the hinge pin retainer, mark the retainer screw hole and drill a 3/32 hole. Pop rivet an
anchor nut under each screw hole using 2 x 3/32 countersunk rivets.

Fit the rudder stops

Make a template that will sit over the rear of the empennage and tape it in place. Find the
centreline of the fuselage and mark a 5mm offset to the right onto the template, then mark
80mm each side of the offset as shown above. Refit the rudder.
Swing the rudder to the left-hand mark on the
template and mark the position of the rear rudder
stop and fit it in place with 2 countersunk selftapping screws. Swing the rudder to the right and fit
the front stop the same way. It may be necessary to
sand inside the right-hand side of the fin to clear the
rudder at full right deflection.
It may also be necessary to sand away part of the
lower right of the fin (arrowed at right) to allow
clearance for the rudder arm at full right rudder deflection.
Check the swing both ways and adjust the stops if required. Once the positions are correct
remove the stops and sand the base of each stop as well as the position in which they will be
mounted, then mix a small batch of resin, coat the joining surfaces and flock both stops in
place, holding each in place with the self-tapping screws. Smooth away any excess flock and
leave overnight to cure.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder
Fit the rudder cable bracket clamp
Fit a rod end to the rudder cable: thread it on to half the thread depth. The total cable travel is
80mm: pull the inner cable all the way out and make a mark at 40mm from the outer cable
then push the inner cable in to that mark. This puts the cable at the centre of its travel.
Fit the rod end to the rudder arm with a bolt.
Locating
groove

Half
travel

Half
travel

Secure the rudder in the 5mm right of centre position on the template, then hold the rudder
cable horizontal and mark the location of the locating groove in the outer cable.
Hold the cable clamp in place and drill a 3/32 pilot
hole into the fin through each hole in the clamp,
then check the holes from the back through the
access hole (as pictured at right) there needs to be
enough room above the top hole and below the
bottom hole to fit the head of the bolt in place.

Top of stub

Make any vertical adjustments that may be required

then drill to 3/16. Test fit the cable clamp: feed the
bolts from the inside and through the side of the fin,
then place the angled cable clamp packer against
the side of the fin with the wider part of the packer
to the rear of the aircraft, then the cable clamp shim
and finally the cable clamp. Secure temporarily
with plain nuts final assembly will require Nyloc
nuts.

Clearance

Clearance
Fuselage

Test the movement of the rudder and rudder cable: make sure that the rudder can be moved to
each stop by use of the cable without any binding.
Remove the rudder cable fittings and the rudder and set aside for painting, put all hinge pins,
hinge pin retainers and rudder cable fittings into a labelled container for reassembly after
painting has been completed.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>Fit rudder task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Objectives of this task:
To fit the top and bottom cowl to the fuselage. This is a big task that will require time and
patience: the cowl will need several test fittings and small adjustments to get the fit just right:
take your time and your reward will be a perfectly fitting, great-looking cowl.
Materials required:
Card # J13 Cowl components and the piano hinges pack (pictured below)
Epoxy resin and flock
5-Minute Araldite
Match the cowl joins and cut the propeller shaft hole

Start by standing the top and bottom cowls on their bases, align the front of each section
carefully and then tape both sections together using cloth tape (circled above).
Look along the side joins and check the alignment: the top and bottom sections should butt up
to each other with no gaps as shown at above left. Sand away any areas that overlap until each
join is straight and true. Mark the centre front of the propeller boss area then mark a 105mm
circle and use a jigsaw to cut the hole out. In the factory we use a circular jig as shown in the
second photo but the hole can easily be scribed with a compass. Sand any rough edges.
Fit the top cowl to the fuselage
In this step we will need to make up a spacing jig (shown at
left) that will keep the front of the top cowl 20mm behind the
propeller flange and 15mm above and centred on the propeller
shaft extension, plus a 3mm spacer on top of each ram air
duct. Wooden blocks cut to size are fine for the purpose.
Tape the jig into place and test fit the top cowl.
Once the front of the top cowl is correctly positioned and
centred on the propeller shaft extension, move to the back
of the cowl and ensure that it is centred side-to-side: mark
the fuselage waterline on each side of the fuselage (photo at
right) and measure up to the cowl from that line then move
the cowl side to side until the distance is equal on both
sides. Recheck that the front of the cowl is still centred.
When the cowl is centred at the front and back, mark the
centreline on the cowl and on the fuselage in front of the
windscreen and then tape the cowl to the fuselage.
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Same both
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Mark and cut the cowls to length
In the next 2 steps we will need to cut both cowls to length so that they will fit into the joggle.

Line up
this edge

Front edge of
tape exactly
level with
joggle step

Back edge
of tape

To mark
and cut
this edge

Front edge of
tape exactly
level with
joggle step

In the factory we have a handy technique that we use to mark the cut: we run masking tape all
the way around the outside of the joggle on the fuselage with the front edge of the tape
exactly level with the step of the joggle (left photo above) and then when the cowl is in place
we run another strip of masking tape around the cowl but with back edge of the cowl tape in
line with the back edge of the fuselage tape (left photo below), so we use the width of the tape
as a way to accurately mark where to cut. masking tape is ideal for the purpose.
Line up the back
edges of the
fuselage and cowl
tapes

Cut along the

front edge of the
cowl tape

In the photo above left the back edge of the cowl tape is being aligned with the back edge of
the fuselage tape, while in the photo above right the cut is being made in line with the front
edge of the cowl tape. Sand any rough edges away with a long sanding block and refit the top
cowl, using the centreline mark to position the cowl at the back and checking that the front of
the cowl is still centred, then tape the top cowl into place.
The same masking tape technique will be used to cut the bottom cowl to length.
Drill 3 x 3/32 holes through the top cowl and into the fuselage: each hole should be 10mm in
from the edge of the cowl, with 1 on the cowl centreline and 1 each side 30mm up from the
cowl join. Temporarily fix the top cowl into place with 6G stainless steel screws.
Now that the top cowl has been positioned we can fit the bottom cowl to match it.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Fit the bottom cowl to the fuselage
Offer the bottom cowl up to the top cowl a well padded saw stool can be used to hold the
cowl up and fit the locating section at the front of both cowls to position the bottom cowl.
Butt the joins together and tape the bottom cowl to
the top cowl.
Using the same technique that you used on the top
cowl, use masking tape to mark the cowl to the
correct length then remove the bottom cowl and
cut along the front of the masking tape. Sand all
cut surfaces with a long sanding block.
Refit the bottom cowl and tape into place, then
mark and drill 5 x 3/32 holes on each side, each
10mm in from the edge of the cowling and each at
60mm away from each bend plus one screw near
the bottom of the cowl the lines in the photo
above show the positions.
Temporarily fix the bottom cowling to the
fuselage with 6G stainless steel screws.

Trim and finish the ram air ducts

10mm

3mm ram air

duct spacer

12mm

Cowl

Remove the top cowl and mark the front of the ram air ducts 10mm back from the inside of
the bottom cowl as shown above left.
Remove the ram air ducts and trim to the mark, sanding away all rough edges.
Mix up a small batch of 5-minute Araldite and flock and bond the rubber sealing strips around
the front of each ram air duct as shown above right, holding the strips in place at 12mm in
front of the ram air duct with spring clips while the flock dries.
Remove the bottom cowl and take both cowls to a cleared workbench.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Pre-fit the cowl hinges
You will need some Clecoes for this step. The objective is
to position and pre-fit the hinges using the Clecoes and then
flock and rivet the hinges permanently into place.
Lay both hinge pairs side by side on the bench. The hinge
with the first loop at the very end will be the bottom hinge.
Mark the Top and Bottom part of each hinge pair and
then mark each pair Left or Right. Mark and drill 3/32
holes along the centre of each hinge starting at 10mm in
from the end and then at 100mm centres.
Assemble each hinge pair by sliding the long hinge pin through the full length of the hinge.
Note that the hinge pin is much longer than the hinge do not trim the hinge pin to length!
The extra length will be used when the hinge pin is fitted through from the door jamb and into
the hinge later in this task. Put a cloth tape flag on the exposed end of the hinge pin to prevent
possible accidents.
Fit both cowls together, fitting the locating section
at the front of both cowls first and then butt the
side joins together. Tape the cowls together with
cloth tape on both the inside and outside of the
joins. Now roll the cowl so that one side join is on
the bottom and place the appropriate hinge
assembly 30mm in from the back edge of the cowl
shorten the hinge if required. Take care that the
hinge is placed so that the hinge pin is exactly in
line with the join and with the side of the hinge
marked Bottom in the bottom cowl.
Hold the hinge firmly in place and drill a single
3/32 hole through the cowl at the back end of the
bottom hinge and fix the hinge in place with a
Clecoe.

30mm

Now align the front of the bottom hinge, drill and

Clecoe into place. Repeat the process on the top
hinge then drill and Clecoe every other hole. Drill
the remaining holes though the cowl.

Roll the cowl around to the

other join and repeat the entire
process for the other hinge.
At this stage the hinges hold
both cowls together as shown at
right, with Clecoes fixing the
hinges to the cowls.
Mark each hinge and the cowl
half that it belongs to and then
remove the Clecoes and the
hinge pins.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Fix the cowl hinges
Sand the bonding surface on each cowl half and the backs of each hinge half to give the flock
a good key to bond to. Clean your Clecoes in Acetone and dry them. Keep the tin of Acetone
handy for later (in fact storing your Clecoes in Acetone can be a good idea because it keeps
them free of oil and other contaminants that could affect an efficient bond).
Mix a batch of resin and coat the bonding surface of each cowl then add some flock to the
remaining resin and then, working on one half of one hinge at a time, apply an even layer of
flock approximately 2mm thick to the hinge and fix the hinge in place with clean Clecoes in
every other hole and then rivet the remaining holes before removing the Clecoes.
Working on one hole at a time, drill a 3/32 hole and use
a 120 countersink bit to carefully countersink the
outside of each rivet hole just enough to allow a
countersunk rivet to sit slightly below the surface of the
cowl (example circled at right) then rivet each hole
before moving on to the next hole.
Drop each Clecoe in the Acetone as you remove it to clean the flock out of it. Clean away as
much flock as possible from around the hinge pin holes, smooth the flock along the other side
of the hinge with a mixing stick and leave the flock to cure overnight.
Next day test fit the hinge pins and remove any remaining flock from the hinges.

In the factory we use a special drill bit (shown above) that is just a standard drill bit welded
onto the end of a spare hinge pin and we clean the hinges through with that (top photo), using
a low drilling speed to prevent any whipping of the long bit. It is important that the hinge pins
fit easily into the hinges without any restrictions.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Fit the hinge pin guides
These guides are the 2 lengths of aluminium tube on the Card that are used to guide the hinge
pins through the door jambs and into the cowl hinges. When the cowls are finally installed the
ends of the hinge pins will be bent in at right angles and the door will hold them in place.

Refit the bottom cowl to the fuselage and hold the hinge in against the joggle then mark a line
beside the firewall and directly behind the hinge. Drop the cowl and drill a hole at this
point as shown above left: it will be just inside of the fuselage skin.
Mark a point on the front of the door jamb 10mm in and in line with the cowl join as shown
above right, which will be very near to the waterline, and drill a hole towards the hole that
you have just drilled. Use a file to round the ends of the guide tubes slightly.

Cut off
flush here

Araldite/flock
along this area

Guide tube
Firewall
Door jamb

Rib

Continue to drill through the rib until the guide tube can be pushed all the way from the door
jamb and through the firewall.
Allow the guide tube to protrude very slightly,
about as shown circled at right.
Check that the hinge pin will line up with the
bottom cowl in place and then fix the guide tubes
in place with 5-minute Araldite and flock.
Hint: a strip of masking tape under the tube acts as
a dam to keep the Araldite/flock mix in place
while it cures. Once the Araldite/flock mix has
cured use a hacksaw to cut the tube off flush with
the door jamb.
Clean any burrs and flock out of the guide tube.
Repeat the process for the other side of the fuselage.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Final fit the cowling
Fit the top and bottom cowls to the
fuselage and insert the hinge pins
from the front door openings. Drill
one 5/16 hole through each side of
the propeller boss for a Camloc
fitting (shown circled at right).
Starting with the bottom cowl, remove one 6G stainless steel screw at a time and drill the hole
out to 3/16, then drill the 3 holes in the top cowl to 5/16.
Remove the cowls and fit
the captive nuts (a
complete captive nut
assembly shown at right)
to the 3/16 holes in the
bottom of the fuselage.
Use the captive nut itself as a jig to drill the rivet holes as shown at above right thread the
screw part way through the captive nut from the back and fit the exposed end of the thread
into the hole in the fuselage, then drill the 2 x 3/32 rivet holes.
Repeat this process for each captive nut and then fit the captive nuts to the inside of the
fuselage, countersinking each rivet hole and riveting from the outside of the fuselage.
Use a similar technique for the 5 Camloc fasteners in the top
cowl (3 at the back, 2 around the propeller boss): hold the
captive part of the Camloc centred over the hole and drill the
3/32 rivet holes then fit the captive part inside the fuselage,
once again countersinking the rivet holes on the outside of the
fuselage. A complete Camloc assembly is shown at right:
Countersink the holes in the bottom cowl enough to allow the Tinneman washers to seat
snugly. Do not countersink the holes in the top cowl, just deburr them.
Fit the machined oil door
Locate the marked position on the right side of the top cowl.
Lay the oil door on the marking and mark around it, then
move the oil door forward 2mm and remark the front this
slightly larger gap (circled at right) is to allow for the forward
movement of the hinge when the oil door is opened.
Assemble the door to the hinge and fit to the hinge surround.
Sand around the inside of the oil door opening and then test fit
the door assembly, taking care to keep the door centred
sideways and to the rear of the opening with the hinge to the
front. Tape the door to the cowl with 2 strips of cloth tape to
keep the correct position.
Mix a batch of 5-minute Araldite and flock, then lift the hinge
frame up, apply the Araldite/flock mix to the hinge frame and
seat the hinge frame to the cowl. Take particular care that no
Araldite/flock gets into any part of the hinge.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling
Fit the cabin air inlet flange
Drill a 30mm hole on the left front of the lower cowl, 100mm below the bottom lip of the air

inlet and 180mm to the left

of the propeller centreline.
Sand the back of the flange
(from Card # J25) and
around the inside of the cowl
around the hole.
Mix a small batch of 5minute Araldite and flock
and fix the flange into place.

100mm

180mm

Fit the induction air (NACA) duct

The induction air duct is fitted to the left hand side of the bottom cowl.

90mm

140mm

Assemble the duct with 5-minute Araldite. Hold the scoop on the outside of the cowl in the
position as shown above, keeping the rear edge of the scoop at right angles to the hinge line
and mark around the outside of the unit and then make a second line inside the first about the
size of the actual opening.
Cut the opening and fit the scoop to the
inside of the cowl, holding it in place
with 5 x 6G stainless steel screws and
adjust the opening to match the shape of
the scoop. Mix a batch of 5-minute
Araldite and flock and fix the scoop into
place, holding it in place with the
screws.
When the Araldite/flock has cured, heat and remove the screws, mix a small batch of resin
and apply a single layer of AF303 glass fibre cloth on the inside of the cowl over both sides
and across the rear of the scoop. Leave overnight to cure.
Next day apply filler to blend the cowl opening smoothly into the scoop.
Do a final test fit then remove and store the cowls and hinge pins until you are ready to paint.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit cowling task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit flap drive shaft bearing blocks

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit flap drive shaft bearing blocks

Objectives of this task:
In this task you will position and flock the flap drive shaft bearing blocks to the inside of the
fuselage.
Note that the flap drive shaft will be fitted in the Post-Paint section: only the bearing blocks
will be fitted in this task.
Materials required:
Card # 16 Flaps
Resin and flock
Prepare the drive shaft

The flap drive shaft is only used for bearing block alignment at this stage, so you will need to
remove all the fittings: one drive arm from each end and the lever arm from one end, until you
have just the bare tube. Note that there are actually 2 tubes, one inside the other: make sure
that both tubes are still together when this task is completed and the shaft is reassembled.
Position the bearing blocks
Place the drive shaft through the pre-drilled
holes (circled) so that the shaft protrudes
an equal amount from each side of the
fuselage, then slip one bearing block on each
end with the screw holes to the top.
Level the top of the block, hold it firmly in
place and drill 2 x 3/16 holes through the
fuselage skin, using the bearing block as a
drilling jig as shown below right:
Mark the blocks to indicate which side of the
aircraft they fit to as well as an arrow
towards the front of the aircraft, then remove
the flap drive shaft and the bearing blocks.
Wax each end of the shaft it will be used to
align the bearing blocks as you flock them
into place and the wax will prevent any flock
sticking to it.
Countersink the outside of the screw holes to
suit the Tinneman washers.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit flap drive shaft bearing blocks
Fit the bearing blocks
Roughen the inside of the fuselage around the area where the bearing blocks will be mounted
and sand the backs of the bearing blocks, mix a small batch of resin and coat the area to be
bonded then add flock to the resin and apply a 3mm bed of flock to the back of each block,
then slip them onto the shaft with the flocked sides facing out and fit the shaft to the fuselage
one end at a time, working from inside the cabin.

Move each block out and bed it against the fuselage and secure it with countersunk screws
and Tinneman washers from the outside of the fuselage and washers and Nyloc nuts on the
inside The photo above shows the bearing blocks (circled) flocked into place with the drive
shaft keeping them in alignment: the photo has been taken from the front of the aircraft facing
towards the rear.
Tighten the nuts just enough to hold each
block in place while leaving the shaft free
to turn. Clean away any excess flock from
around the block and leave overnight to
cure. The photo at right shows the fitted
block from the outside with the drive
shaft still in place, while the photo below
shows the block from the inside with the
shaft removed.

Next day tighten the Nyloc nuts firmly and do

a final check for binding, then remove the flap
drive shaft completely: pull it out through one
side of the fuselage, clean off the wax, make
sure that the inner and outer shafts are fitted
together then reassemble the drive fittings to
the shaft and store for later use.

This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit flap drive shaft bearing blocks task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit handbrake

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit handbrake
Objectives of this task:
To pre-fit the handbrake master cylinder and lever to the centre console. At the completion of
this task the handbrake will be removed and stored until final fitting following painting and
installation of the interior trim.
Completed handbrake master cylinder,
handbrake lever and locking cam, as viewed
from the right-hand side

Locking
cam

Materials required:
Card # J8 Brakes
Loctite 577
Fit the master cylinder
Using a small bead of Loctite 577 on the thread,
attach the brass compression fitting to the
master cylinder and tighten firmly. Put a piece
of masking tape over the hole to keep foreign
objects out.
Drill the upper and lower mounting holes out to
5/16 (arrowed below), then, working through
the side access holes in the console, fit the brake
lever mount into the front of the console (refer
to drawing 6A027A0D-3 on the next page for
detail) using two hex head bolts in the top and
bottom holes, then mount the master cylinder to
the brake lever mount with the cap screws the
photo at right shows the orientation of the
components: note that the brake lever mount has
the pivot hole to the top.

Compression
fitting

The photos below show the fitting of the brake

lever mount and the master cylinder to the
console.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit handbrake
Fit the handbrake lever
Assemble the two red knobs to the handbrake lever, with the longer knob to the left of the
lever (the same side as the machined recess) and secure with the supplied bolt and nut.
Fit the handbrake lever cam to the right-hand side of the handbrake lever with the supplied
bolt and Nyloc nut and with a Bundy tube bush in place to allow free movement of the
handbrake lever locking cam.
The lever assembly can now be fitted to the brake lever mount. It may be necessary to file the
cut-out on top of the console in order to achieve full fore and aft travel of the handbrake lever
as well as the correct side clearance for the handbrake lever locking cam.
Check that the handbrake lever has full movement and that the handbrake lever locking cam
does not bind against the sides of the console cutout, then remove the entire handbrake
assembly and put aside until the Paint and Interior Trim tasks have been completed.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit handbrake task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit trim control

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit trim control

Objectives of this task:
To pre-fit the trim pivot assembly, trim stops and the dual trim levers to the centre console
and fit the trim cable clamp to the seat base. At the completion of this task the trim levers will
be removed and put aside until the final fitting following painting and installation of the
upholstery.

Trim lever

Rod end

Pivot bush
Trim cable

Trim stops

This task is broken down into three items, which should be done the following order:
1. Align & fit the trim pivot bushes
2. Align & fit the trim stops
3. Align & fit the trim cable clamp
Materials required:
Card # J2 Trim System
Epoxy Resin and Flock
5 minute Araldite
260 x 160mm 3-ply for template

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit trim control
Trim pivot and trim levers:

Trim levers

Friction washers

Pivot bushes

Pivot barrel

Pivot shaft

Align and fit the trim pivot bushes

Pilot holes for the pivot bushes are pre-drilled in the console. Start by enlarging the holes for
the pivot bushes slightly with a round file until the pivot bushes can be fitted snugly and the
file sits level through the holes and square to the console when viewed from above.
Screw the left-hand pivot bush firmly into the pivot barrel.
Push the pivot barrel through the console and flock into place
then loosely fit the right-hand side pivot bush. Line up the
left-hand side rivet holes and secure the left-hand side pivot
bush with three TLR rivets as shown at left.
Push the pivot shaft through the pivot bushes and temporarily
fit the trim levers, including the friction washers, and tighten
the castellated nut onto the pivot bolt by hand until the trim
levers are held securely onto the pivot shaft.
Move the trim levers fore and aft: both trim levers should maintain an even distance out from
the console. If this is not the case the hole for the right-hand pivot bush may need to be
elongated slightly to correct the alignment. Note that if the right-hand hole has been elongated
you will need to rotate the right-hand pivot bush 1/6 of a turn and drill three new rivet holes
for that side only.
Once the trim levers can move freely fore and aft while maintaining an even distance out from
the console, flock and tighten the right-hand pivot bush firmly into place and secure with three
TLR rivets, fitted one at a time and rechecking the trim levers alignment after each rivet has
been placed.
Smooth any surplus flock with a small amount of resin on a clean mixing stick.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit trim control
Align and fit the trim stops
Make the template from a piece of 3-ply plywood as shown below and position the hole at the
bottom of the template on the pivot shaft and the top level with the top of the forward console.

Mark the locations for the trim lever stops on the left hand side of the console only and lightly
sand the areas underneath to ensure a solid joint. Using 5 minute Araldite and flock, fit the
trim lever stops in position, temporarily secure each with a self-tapping screw and leave to
cure, then remove the screws and fill the holes.

trim stops

trim pivot bush

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Pre-fit trim control
Align and fit the trim cable clamp
It is important that the trim cable clamp is accurately positioned against the left-hand side of
the console in a way that minimises any bending loads on the trim cable. The procedure is as
follows: with the trim cable in place and working from the left-hand side of the console, put a
rod end fully onto the cable end: thread the rod end all the way onto the cable end, then bolt
the rod end to the left-hand trim lever as shown in the first photo below.

Push the inner trim cable all the way into the outer cable
then put the trim lever against the rear trim stop as shown at
left. This is the correct position for the outer cable to be
secured by the cable clamp. Fit the cable clamp to the outer
cable and make sure that the
cable clamp grips the
locating groove on the outer
cable (circled at right).

Rod
Bolt to
trimend
lever

Inner cable

Position the trim cable clamp against the console in such a

way as to line the trim cable up with the rod end on the trim
lever and drill 2 x 3/16 holes through the cable clamp packer
and into the side of the console as shown in the photo shown
below at right. Temporarily position with 2 x AN3 bolts.

packer
outer
cable

inner
cable

locating
groove

clamp

outer cable

Bond the cable clamp packer into place and leave to cure. Remove the aligning bolts. Fit the
cable clamp shim, the trim cable and the cable clamp and mount with 2 x AN3 bolts placed
from the inside of the console and secured with Nyloc nuts on the outside of the cable clamp.
Remove the trim levers, pivot bolt and pivot shaft and put aside for later fitting after painting
and upholstery have been completed.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Pre-fit trim control task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Fit control stick

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Fit control stick

Objectives of this task:
In this task you will fit the elevator cable to the console and then align and fit the two control
column bushes into the console, set up the endplay of the control column and fit the control
stick to the console.
Materials required:
Card # J17A Elevator System and Control Stick
Epoxy Resin and Flock
Fit the elevator cable clamp
The elevator cable runs through the
console and through to the rear of the
fuselage inside the longitudinal rib.
Drill the existing 3/16 holes through
and place both bolts through the
mounting holes from the inside of the
console, through the cable clamp
backing plate and then through the
saddle clamp.
Take care to align the locating groove
in the outer cable with the matching
point on the saddle clamp, then secure with Nyloc nuts and mark the nuts with TorqueSeal.

Press fit the rear bush

The metal rear bush must first be pressed into the
mounting plate - a bench vise is the most
convenient way to do this as shown in the picture
at the right.
Note that the flange on the rear bush goes on the
outside face of the mounting plate.
The two photos below show the rear bush fully
pressed into the mounting plate.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Fit control stick
Fit the bushes to the console
Fit the stick pivot plate carefully into the
control shaft and secure with 2 x AN313A bolts, spacers, washers and Nyloc
nuts. The nuts should face the left-hand
side of the aircraft when fitted.

Front bush

Stick pivot
plate

Slip the front nylon bush over the

control shaft.
With the rear bush and mounting plate
taped in place, fit the control shaft into
the console from the front and through
the rear bush, seating the front bush.

Control
shaft

Mount the aileron bellcrank onto the rear

of the control shaft, taking care to keep the
bellcrank square to the shaft, and temporarily secure
it by easing an AN3 bolt through the bellcrank and
the shaft as shown below right.
Do not force the bolt through the holes: ensure that
the holes are aligned exactly before fitting the bolt.
Now the control shaft is held in the console by both
the front and rear bushes. At this point make any
adjustments necessary to allow the control shaft to
rotate freely in the bushes you may need to file
small amounts out of the console to correct the
alignment of the front or rear bushes.

Rear bush and mount

Take your time with this step: you want the

absolute minimum of turning resistance!
Make sure that the rear mounting plate is pushed
fully into the console and then move the front nylon
bush out as required to take up any endplay: you
require only a very small amount of endplay, no
more than the thickness of a single sheet of paper.

Right side

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Front bushes flocked into place

Aileron bellcrank fitted

Left side

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Fit control stick
It is very important that the rear bush and mounting plate are fitted to the console at precisely
90 to the control shaft, and that there is no friction between the bushes and the shaft.
When you are satisfied with the alignment of both bushes and the endplay is correct, remove
the aileron bellcrank and pull the bushes out enough to coat each bush with flock, then push
both bushes back into place. Refit the aileron bellcrank and reset the endplay very carefully
and leave to cure, taking care not to get any flock onto the control shaft. Smooth off any
surplus resin with a small amount of resin on a clean mixing stick.
Rear bushes and mounting plate flocked into place

Right side

Left side

When the flock has cured, remove the temporary bolt from the aileron bellcrank and withdraw
the control shaft. Clean any flock from the control shaft and from around the bushes then
reinsert the control shaft, check that the control shaft can rotate freely and that the endplay is
minimal and then remove the control shaft and the aileron bellcrank and set aside until the
fuselage has been painted.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>Fit control stick task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit rudder pedal mount blocks

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit rudder pedal mount blocks

Objectives of this task:
In this optional task the lower rudder pedal mounting blocks will be checked for vertical
alignment and if necessary the lower blocks will be flocked into place on the floor brackets.
This task shows how to ensure that the blocks are aligned correctly.
Materials required:
Rudder pedal mounting blocks (3 pairs)
3 x and 2 x 3/16 bolts, 3 or longer
Rudder pedals
Epoxy Resin and Flock
Check the alignment

Fit the rudder pedals into place as shown above, with the mount blocks supporting the pedal
assembly. Check each lower block to see if it is touching both the floor mounts and the rudder
pedal assembly main bar. If any block can be moved up and down then you should follow this
procedure, otherwise skip this task and go to the next task.
Align the Mount Blocks
The key to correct alignment is the use of a bed of flock under each mount block to allow for
any unevenness in the height of the three floor mounts sometimes there may be a slight
height difference that, if not corrected, could lead to binding of the rudder pedals.

Position the three mount blocks by placing a centre bolt through the centre hole of each mount
block only. Mark a pencil line around each mount block and then remove the mount blocks.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit rudder pedal mount blocks
Sand a slightly bigger area than the marked area and sand the bottom of each mount block to
ensure a good key for the flock.
Mix a small batch of flock and apply to the marked areas, taking care to keep flock out of the
three captive nuts under the centre mount block, then loosely place each mount block into
position again with a single bolt in each centre hole. Gently place the rudder pedals shafts into
the blocks and apply a slight downward pressure to seat all three mount blocks firmly into the
flock.

Now fit the top of the mount blocks: working on one mount block at a time, remove the centre
bolt, place the top of the mount block in place and replace the centre bolt. Place all three bolts
in the centre mount block and do them up by hand until the bolts reach the bottom of the
captive nuts this will ensure that no flock will get into the threads.
Carefully rotate the rudder pedal shafts by moving the rudder pedals forwards and backwards
there should be no binding whatsoever.

Smooth off any excess flock with a small amount of resin on a clean mixing stick. Leave to
cure, taking care that no flock has contacted the rudder pedals. When the flock has gone off
and is firm, carefully remove the bolts. Once the flock is completely cured remove the top of
each mount block and the rudder pedals and set them aside until after the paint and upholstery
tasks have been completed.
Run a drill through the holes in the left and right mount blocks to remove any excess flock.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit rudder pedal mount blocks task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit aileron cable brackets

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit aileron cable brackets

Objectives of this task:
In this task the aileron cable brackets will be positioned and mounted to the seat backs.
Positioning of the aileron cable brackets is absolutely critical and great care must be taken in
this task.
Materials required:
Card # J5 Aileron System
Epoxy Resin and Flock
3/16 TLR rivets from the hardware pack
220 x 270mm plywood or heavy cardboard for the alignment template
Position and fix the aileron cable brackets

completed aileron cable mounts as viewed from the rear facing forwards
Preparation
Start by making the positioning template from the drawing on the next page. Heavy cardboard
is quite adequate for the template as long as care is taken to cut the lines and drill the holes
accurately.
It will be necessary to redrill the top rivet holes in the aileron cable brackets scribe a line
parallel to the top of the bracket and in line with the centre of the existing hole.
Centre-punch and drill 2 new 3/16 holes as shown at right.
Make sure that you leave
enough clearance around each
hole for a 3/16 washer.
Clean around each hole and
test a rivet in each hole it
should be a snug fit.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit aileron cable brackets
Aileron cable bracket positioning template

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit aileron cable brackets
Align the template
and mark the bracket
positions
Temporarily attach the
template to the control
yoke with 2 bolts placed
through the yoke and into
the template as shown
circled at the bottom of
the photo at right.
Level the top of the
template in line with the
top of the seat backs.

Working with one bracket

at a time, hold the bracket
in place in the angled part
of the template (circled at
the top of the top photo)
and carefully mark around
the outside and bottom
edges.
Remove the template.

Drill the aileron cable bracket rivet holes

Working from the rear of the seats, hold each bracket against the seat back so that the outside
and bottom of the bracket is in line with the marks on the seat back. Hold the bracket firmly
and drill the bottom outside hole through the seat back.
Place a rivet into the hole in the bracket to position it, check that the bracket is still lined up
with the marks and drill the inside top hole.
Place another rivet into the inside top hole and drill the outside top hole.
Make sure that all the rivets fit snugly through the seat back and into each bracket, then
remove all the rivets and clean all the holes carefully there must be no burrs or rough edges
remaining.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit aileron cable brackets
Attach the aileron cable brackets
Sand the back of each aileron cable bracket as well as the positions on the seat backs where
they will be placed.
Clean all surfaces to be joined.
Prepare a small mix of resin and use a brush to undercoat the positions on the seat backs
where the aileron cable brackets will be placed.
Add flock to the resin and apply an even layer of flock approximately 2-3mm thick to the
back of each aileron cable bracket.

Working on one bracket at a time, place a rivet through the bracket and into the seat back and
rivet in place. Repeat the process with the top outside and top inside rivets.
Using a little resin on a clean mixing stick, clean any squeezed-out flock from the brackets.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit aileron cable brackets task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fuel system

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fuel system
Objectives of this task:
To install the fuel system from the wing tank connectors to the firewall fitting.
The fuel system consists of wing tanks (covered in the Wings tasks) that flow to a header tank
situated behind the right-hand seat and then through a filter and an electronic pump to a
shutoff valve located beside the pilot and then through a firewall fitting to the engine.
Note that the fuel lines to the wing tank fittings and the fuel line to the firewall will all be
fitted in this task and then sealed off for later final connection.
Materials required:
Card # J11 Fuel Components
Fuel header tank
Blue fuel line, black fuel line and clear fuel line sheathing
Lock wire
Epoxy Resin and Flock, 5-minute Araldite
Assemble and test the header tank
Start by assembling the fuel fittings and pressure testing the
header tank. Make sure that there are no foreign objects in the
tank, then loop the inlets and breather holes (all at the top
front of the tank) together with short lengths of line (it doesnt
matter in what order this is just to seal the tank for the
pressure test) then fit the quick drain with a drop of Loctite
577 and tighten firmly. Fit an O-ring to the finger filter and fit
into the outlet hole, once again with a drop of Loctite 577 and
tighten firmly, then connect a short length of line to the finger
filter and apply a small amount of pressure by blowing into
the line, seal and check for leaks by spraying soapy water over
the tank and fittings and check for bubbles.
Fit the header tank to the enclosure
The header tank sits in the header tank enclosure behind the right-hand seat (the enclosure
was fitted in the Prepare fuselage task) and is held in place with the enclosure lid, which also
forms the luggage floor when it is fitted.
Fit the 2 brass nipple fittings to the inlet and outlet of the pump in each case use a drop of
Loctite. Fit the electronic fuel pump, with the flow arrow facing towards the front of the
aircraft, to the floor of the enclosure with 3/16 countersunk screws and Tinneman washers
from underneath the fuselage, through the pump mount and secure with Nyloc nuts.
Araldite a square of rubber sheet and a piece of sponge to the inboard side of the pump, the
side that will contact the side of the tank. Araldite a 50mm square of rubber sheer to the front
of the enclosure and then sit the tank in place and check that the quick drain is centred in the
hole. Add more rubber sheet to pack the tank back if required.
Now fit a length of rubber sheet to the floor of the enclosure that is wide enough to prevent
the tank from contacting the floor at any point.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fuel system
At this point the tank is positioned fore and aft by the quick drain fitting through the floor and
the rear of the tank is touching the padded side of the electronic fuel pump, so now you will
need to cut dense foam or timber packers to hold the tank from moving sideways or
backwards.
The photo at right shows a fitted tank note the location of the
3 packers (circled): 1 at the rear of the enclosure and 1 on each
side. Each packer has a piece of rubber sheet on the end that
touches the tank and the other end of each packer is flocked to
the side of the enclosure.
Note that the packers do not go all the way to the bottom of the
enclosure the space under the packers is where the fuel line is
routed from the tank to the filter and then to the pump.
Cut and fit the packers and when you are satisfied with the fit
then flock each packer to the side of the enclosure. When fitted
correctly you will be able to take the header tank out of and
into the enclosure. Add a strip of foam to the top of the tank
where it will touch the lid and the tank is fitted.
Plumb from the header tank
As you can see in the photo above right, the filter is located just behind the right-hand packer,
so cut a short length of blue fuel grade tubing to suit, then cut a longer length to run from the
outlet of the filter to the inlet of the fuel pump. Check that the filter is correctly positioned,
with the flow arrow facing in the direction of the fuel flow, which is from the header tank to
the filter and from the filter to the pump, then use the supplied hose clamps to fit each length
of tubing into place. Wrap the filter with rubber sheet and fix in place with 2 zip ties. 5 minute
Araldite the supplied bracket (arrowed above) in place and zip tie the filter to the bracket.
Plumb to the header tank
Cut 3 lengths of blue fuel grade tubing at 990mm and another 3 at 1300mm. The shorter ones
will run from the header tank to the right-hand connector and the longer ones will run from
the header tank to the left-hand connector. Cut 2 lengths of the clear sheathing, 1 at 950mm
and 1 at 1250mm.
Fit the 3 shorter lengths of blue fuel grade tubing to the ferrules on the right-hand front of the
header tank, and mark the other end of each line by wrapping short length of cloth tape
around the line and marking it either Breather, Front or Rear as appropriate.
Fit a hose clamp to each line and tighten firmly.
Feed the lines out through the grey
plastic fittings in the upper side of the
enclosure (arrowed in yellow at right)
and slip the sheathing over the fuel
lines and over the grey plastic fitting
(arrowed in purple at right) and then
lock wire the sheath to the grey plastic
fitting.

Outlet

Repeat the process for the left-hand fuel

lines, which will pass in front of the
support rib as shown at right.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fuel system
Fit the tank connectors
The tank connectors must be fitted the
correct side of the aircraft: when fitted out
through the slots in the tops of the cabin
walls the brass ferrules must face forwards,
towards the front of the aircraft, while the
circular sleeve and ferrules will face
downwards inside the cabin, allowing the
fuel lines to run smoothly to the header tank.

Left

Working on one side at a time, place the tank

connector through the slot in the top of the
cabin wall and check the length of the fuel
line sheath, which will be slightly too long.

Right

Back

Front

Breather

Trim the sheath to length then fit each fuel line to the correct
fitting on the circular inboard part of the connector: the
Breather line connects to the outside ferrule, while the Front
line connects to the centre and the Rear line connects to the
inside.
Fit the sheath over the circular ring and lock wire into place as
shown at right. Note that the right-hand side connector is
shown. Seal the open ends of the connector with tape and
repeat the process on the left-hand side.
Fit the fuel tap and fuel line
Remove the lever from the fuel tap and set it aside.
Look for a mark or pilot hole on the left-hand side of
the centre console around 50mm in front of the base
of the armrest and 30mm below the forward section
of the console as shown at right:
Drill a 16mm hole at that position.
Working through the access hole in the right-hand
side of the console, hold the fuel tap in position
against the inside of the left-hand side of the console
and mark the positions for the alignment pin and screw holes, which will be visible through
the fibreglass, then remove the fuel tap and drill the holes. Pre-fit the fuel tap with the two
screws and then remove the tap and set it aside.
Cut a length of blue fuel hose of sufficient length to reach from the fuel tap all the way back
to the electronic fuel pump outlet plus ~100mm, and a length of black fuel hose of sufficient
length to reach from the fuel tap down along the floor and back up to the firewall fitting plus
~100mm.
Fit both fuel hoses to the fuel tap and secure with the
supplied hose clips, making sure that the flow arrow
on the face of the fuel tap is facing towards the black
(outlet) fuel line.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fuel system
Place a length of fuel line sheathing over both fuel lines and secure with lock wire to each
boss on the fuel tap.
Fit the fuel line/sheath and tap assembly: tape over both ends of the fuel lines to prevent
foreign objects from entering and then insert the blue fuel line end into the console through
the access hole in the right-hand side and feed the blue fuel line down and back towards the
rear of the fuselage and into the lower part of the console.
Feed the fuel line back until it can be seen in the hole in the
lower longitudinal rib under the beam behind the seats, then,
using a length of wire with a hook in one end, lift the fuel line
and sheath out of the lower longitudinal rib and run it back
beside the header tank enclosure.
Keep feeding the fuel line back until the end of the black fuel
line and sheath can be inserted into the access hole in the
console and then feed the fuel line/sheath down and forwards,
taking care to route the line under the trim pivot, until it can
be lifted out of the hole in the forward section of the lower
console behind the rudder pedals.
Using a length of wire with a hook in one end, reach down
into the console through the right-hand access hole and lift the
fuel line assembly up and move the fuel tap into position.
Mount the fuel tap to the console with the two screws.
Cut the end of the blue fuel line and sheath to the correct
lengths and connect to the electric fuel pump with a supplied
hose clip and then lock wire the sheath to the grey plastic
ferrule on the header tank enclosure (arrowed at right).
Cut the black fuel line and sheath to length and clamp the fuel line to the firewall fitting and
lock wire the sheath to the firewall fitting collar. Cover the open (top) end of the firewall
fitting to prevent dust or dirt from entering the fuel system.
Checks
At this stage you should have connected the fuel lines all the way from the fuel tank
connectors through to the fuel header tank, then to the fuel filter, the electronic fuel pump, the
fuel tap in the console and the black fuel hose which is connected to the firewall fitting.
Check that all the flow arrows on the fuel filter, the electronic fuel pump and the fuel tap are
pointing in the correct direction, which is away from the header tank and towards the engine.
Check that all of the fuel line sheathing is lock wired in place and that the sheathing does seal
the fuel lines correctly.
Check that all fuel lines are routed smoothly with absolutely no kinks and that there are no
rough edges anywhere nearby that could rub against the fuel lines or sheathing, and then
check that all of the open ends of the fuel lines are sealed so that no foreign objects can enter.
Coil the tank connectors and related fuel lines behind the seats where they will not be
damaged during construction.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fuel system task.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit seatbelt anchors

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit seatbelt anchors

Objectives of this task:
This task shows how to fit the seatbelt anchors. While this is quite a simple task it is also an
extremely important one the seat belts must be anchored correctly because if you ever really
need your seat belt (and heres hoping that you never do) it has to be attached to the airframe
in the designed manner for maximum safety.
The photos that follow are of the pilots seat: the same applies to the other seat but in reverse.
Materials required:
Card # J9 Seatbelts
Bottom anchor brackets
Both inner bottom anchor brackets are attached to the main beam that runs behind the seats.
Pilots seat
back

50mm

100mm
Inner bracket

Outer bracket

Console

Start by marking a horizontal line 100mm up from the base of the main beam on the inside of
each seat, and then mark a vertical line 50mm out from each side of the centre console.
Hold a bottom inner bracket inside and below where each pair of lines meet and drill a 3/16
hole through the top hole and slip a bolt through and then check each anchor bracket for
square and drill the bottom hole. Fix each inner anchor bracket in place with AN3 bolts
through the bracket, the beam, the rectangular backing plate, a washer and a Nyloc nut.
The bottom outer brackets are held with a single
AN3 bolt and the hole is drilled from the outside
of the fuselage: 25mm up from the main gear leg
recess and 65mm back (left-hand side) and
75mm back (right-hand side) from the front of
the recess: each bracket should sit in the lowest,
rearmost corner inside.
Fix in place with an AN3 bolt through the
fuselage from the outside, through the bracket
with a flat washer and a Nyloc nut.
Tighten all the Nyloc nuts firmly.
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25mm
65mm LHS
75mm RHS
Left-hand side
shown

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit seatbelt anchors
Top anchor brackets
The top anchor brackets mount behind the
whalebone with the centre of the bracket
precisely level with the bracing rib in front of
the whalebone as shown at right.

Whalebone

Hold the bracket in position and drill a 3/16

hole at the top of the bracket and slip a bolt
through then line up the bottom of the
bracket and drill the second hole.
The top bracket will not be finally fitted until
the aircraft has been painted and the
upholstery has been installed.
Pre-fit the bracket in place with an AN3 bolt
through the bracket, the whalebone, the
backing washer and a Nyloc nut.

Bracing
rib

Front of aircraft

Remove and store the top brackets for later final fitting.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit seatbelt anchors task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors
Objectives of this task:
In this task you will size and pre-fit the doors to the fuselage and pre-fit the striker plate, all of
which will be finally fitted after the fuselage has been painted.
In the photos that follow the pilots door is shown, however the exact same technique is used
for each door.
Materials required:
Card # J1 Doors
5-minute Araldite and flock

Size the door

The door may require a slight trim to fit the opening: either tape the door in place or have a
friend hold it firmly in place. Working from the inside, make sure that the door is centred in
the opening and mark the inside of the door around the edge of the opening.
Remove the door and use a sanding disc to trim the door to the mark. Hold the door in the
opening and carefully mark and sand as required until the door is a good snug fit all round.

Fit the hinges

Fit the top and bottom hinges to the arms on the door, then
tape the door back into position and mark the centreline
(vertically and horizontally) of each hinge screw. Remove the
door and extend the marks to locate and drill each hole.
Trial fit the door with the hinge screws fitted and check that
the door is sitting flush with the fuselage. If it requires
adjustment outwards then an Araldite/flock mixture will be
used to pack the hinges out the required amount.
Remove the door and roughen the area around each hinge
screw hole to provide a good key for the Araldite/flock
mixture. Apply wax to the hinge and screw to prevent them
sticking to the flock and refit the door.
Loosely fit the hinge screws, then mix up a small batch of 5minute Araldite and flock and pack the flock mixture behind
the hinges as required, check that the alignment of the door
and the fuselage is correct and leave the flock mix to cure.
Open and close the door a few times and mark any points that
are binding then use a long sanding block to remove those
points the door should open and close smoothly with
nothing rubbing at any point right around the opening.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors
Pre-fit the striker plate
Hold the outside door latch in the open (forward) position and
close the door until the rear of the door is sitting flush with the
fuselage and with an even gap top and bottom and, working
from the inside of the cabin, carefully mark the vertical
position of the latch pin on the door jamb.
Open the door and measure the horizontal distance from the
outer door skin to the centre of the latch pin and mark that on
the door jamb then drill a hole at the point where the 2
lines cross.
Temporarily tape the striker plate to the door so that the latch
pin is just through the hole in the plate then close the door
carefully and, working from the inside of the cabin, mark the
top and bottom of the striker plate onto the door jamb.
Remove the striker plate from the door and pre-fit it to the
door jamb as shown in the photo above, with the plate sitting
against the lip of the door jamb.
Do not rivet the striker plate into place; it will be finally fitted after the painting is complete.

Fit the top latch

Measure back 35mm
from the top of the curve
at the front of the door
and drill a pilot hole and
then a hole down
through the door frame.
Refer to photo at right:
Fit the latch barrel up
through the hole until it is
Top
about 2mm above the top
handle
of the door jamb and
mark that position, then
flock the barrel into position with 5-minute Araldite and flock.

30mm

35mm
Top latch

Make sure that the open end of the barrel faces upwards as shown in the photo above.
Smooth the flock to a uniform radius around the top and bottom of the barrel and leave to
cure.
With the door closed, hold the top front of the door flush with the fuselage and drill a 3/8
hole up through the latch-pin hole in the barrel and through the door jamb.
Open the door and fit the latch pin to the barrel from the bottom with the rubber sleeve and
circlip fitted from the top as shown above. Test the latch for free but firm movement.
Fit the top handle 30mm behind the top latch mark and drill the screw holes through both
surfaces then drill the top holes to for access to the screws.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors
Final fit the door
Shut the door using both latches and check right around the door to see if there are any areas
that need final adjustment, for example if the door does not fit easily inside the opening, and
sand to fit as required.

Fit the fairing to the top hinge

Centre the fairing on the top hinge and tape it in place then
test that the door can open and close freely and make
adjustments to the hinge arm slot as required then fix in place
with 5-minute Araldite and flock.
Test that the door can open and close freely and adjust the
clearance of the hinge arm slot if required.
Cut and fit a section of glass sheet to the hinge arm (arrowed
at right) to suit the opening in the fairing and fix to the hinge
arm with an Araldite/flock mixture and leave to cure.

Fit the fairing to the bottom hinge

Centre the fairing on the bottom hinge and tape it in place
then test that the door can open and close freely and make
adjustments to the hinge arm slot as required then fix in place
with 5-minute Araldite and flock.
Test that the door can open and close freely and adjust the
clearance of the hinge arm slot if required.
Cut and fit a section of glass sheet to the hinge arm (arrowed
at right) to suit the opening in the fairing and fix to the hinge
arm with an Araldite/flock mixture and leave to cure.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors
Fit the key lock
30mm

130mm

60mm

20mm
20mm

Mark a position 30mm out from the rear of the opening and 130mm up from the bottom of
the opening and drill a pilot hole, then drill out to 18mm and elongate the hole with a round
file until the door lock barrel can be mounted snugly into the hole.
Now mark and cut a slot 60mm long and 6mm wide 20mm in from the fuselage skin in the
door opening, with the bottom of the slot square with the bottom of the lock hole. This is the
slot that the lock arm will operate through. Close and latch the door and mark the slot onto the
back of the door use a builders pencil or any similar thin marker and mark through the slot.

Unlocked

Locked

Cut the slot in the back of the door and check that it matches the slot in the door opening.
Fit the lock barrel into the 18mm elongated hole and secure with the large nut, then fit the
lock arm, which will need to be bent slightly in order to swing freely into the slot.
Turn the key so that the top of the key moves forward and fit the arm in the locked position.
Test that the door can be locked and unlocked with no binding of the lock arm.
Leave the doors fitted for now, they will be removed later in Painting>Pre-paint disassembly.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors task.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windows

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windows
The windows are formed from strong but brittle acrylic and care must be taken to avoid
marking or cracking the windows while they are being fitted. The windows are fixed in place
with flock and without screws, however screws are used around the windows to hold the
windows in place while the flock cures and are then removed.
Any minor shaping of the windows that may be required must be done with an 80 grit sanding
disc or a hand-held sanding block: you must never use a jigsaw on acrylic.
The description and photos that follow show the window being fitted to a pilots door, and the
exact same technique should be used for any window.
Materials required:
Epoxy resin and flock, wax
x adhesive-backed foam strip
8G self-tapping screws in heavy duty (coax) cable clamps:
Pre fit the window
Start by carefully sanding away all of the gel coat from the joggle, then fit a length of the
foam strip around the very inside of the joggle (the dark grey line in the photo below) this
will keep the flock from making a messy line around the inside of the window and give a nice
clean edge when the window has been flocked into place.

Close and latch the door and then test fit the window, holding or taping it in place and making
any minor adjustments that may be required so that the window fits snugly inside the joggle.
Remove the window and, working very carefully, drill 1/8 screw holes in the door frame just
outside of the joggle as shown arrowed above. Note in the photo of a completed window
above that the protective plastic sheet has been folded and taped back from the edges of the
window so that the bulk of the window area is still protected from scratching.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windows
Prepare the window
Remove the window carefully and clean and blow away any dust and debris from the joggle.
Place the window face down on the bubble wrap packing
material, taking care not to allow anything to scratch the
surface, and carefully sand around the entire inside edge with
emery tape sand only to a point just short of the inside of the
joggle, level with the centre of the foam strip.
By holding the emery tape as shown you can use your finger
to control the width of the sanded area.
When the sanding is complete blow away the dust and then
use a clean soft cloth and wipe right around the window.
Do not use any cleaning agents on the window.
Fit the window
Close and latch the door, wax the self-tapping screws and cable clamps and then wash and dry
your hands to prevent wax from getting onto the window or the joggle.
Mix a batch of resin and coat the joggle, then add flock to the resin and fill the entire joggle
out to the level of the foam strip. Carefully place the window into the bed of flock - start at
one corner and position the window until the alignment is correct and it fits inside the joggle and then gently press it into position.
Once the window is positioned correctly, take the self-tapping
screws and cable clamps and start fitting them around the door
frame as shown at right, working from the corners first and
then the middle screws and so on.
The clamps will pull the window into the joggle level with the
door frame and the wax will allow easy removal once the
flock has cured, while the screw holes will be filled during the
Paint Preparation tasks. Take care not to over tighten the
screws, tighten them just enough so that the edge of the
window is level with the adjacent door frame.
Check all around to see that the flock has keyed to the window: the sanded surface of the
window edge will appear to go clear with no bubbles when the flock is in full contact with it.
It may be necessary to gently squeeze the window to remove any bubbles, although if you
have filled the joggle with flock there should be full contact anyway.
When you are satisfied that the window is positioned correctly wipe away the excess flock
with a clean mixing stick, taking care not to smear any resin or flock over the window: always
wipe out and away from the window. Refer to the photo of a completed window on the
previous page for an example of how it should look. Leave overnight to cure. Next day
remove the screws and cable clamps.
The same process should be used for all the remaining windows. You may do more than one
window at a time if you are confident of your ability to do so but we would suggest that one
window at a time is a great way to start.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit windows task.
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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Wheel alignment

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Wheel alignment
Objectives of this task:
To ensure that the main wheels are correctly aligned.
Overview:
Some aircraft have reported shuddering through the undercarriage and airframe on rotation or
landing. The amount of shuddering seems to be variable, depending on the all up weight of
the aircraft. Investigations on factory built aircraft have revealed that this phenomenon is
caused by a combination of two factors: toe-in or -out and the camber of the main wheels.
This procedure outlines how to check the wheel alignment and make the necessary
adjustments to correct the issue. Its a fairly basic technique, but weve had success with it.
Procedure:
Firstly, a reference point is required from centerline (longitudinal axis) of the fuselage. This
can be achieved by dropping a plumb bob down from the tip of the spinner, and one from the
ventral fin and then, using a string line, join the two points. As seen in the picture below, we
have used the join line in the concrete slab as the reference line.

Place a straightedge (weve found a length of box

section to be the best) along the outside wall of the
tire, and eyeball from above to check that both the
tire and the straight edge are parallel.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Wheel alignment

Mark the position of the straightedge in both forward and aft positions and join the two points,
repeating the same procedure for the opposite side.
Take measurements from the straight edge positions to the centreline of the fuselage, repeat
for the opposite side and compare the numbers to see if the wheels have toe-in or toe-out. The
wheels will naturally want to rotate outwards when the aircraft is at gross weight, so it is
recommended to have a slight amount of toe-in to allow for this.
If adjustments are required, washers are used as spacers between the stub axle and the
undercarriage leg. Typically 2 washers are required on each of the lower stub axle mounting
bolts to give the wheel slightly less camber, and usually only one half size washer installed on
either the front or the back two stub axle bolts is sufficient to shift the toe in/out.
Pack with flock, reinstall and tighten and leave overnight to cure before using the aircraft.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit wheel spats

Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit wheel spats

Objectives of this task:
To pre-fit the spats to the main wheels and the nose wheel. This is a task that will require
several trial fits, and it should be done in the stages described below.
Main wheel spats
The main wheel spats are held in place by a single bolt on the outside that fits into the axle
extension and 4 screws on the inside that fit to the spat mounting plate. The inside holes
(arrowed at centre right) should all be countersunk to accommodate Tinneman washers.

Prepare the spats by trimming out the bottom of the wheel opening as shown above once the
bottom opening is correct the spat can be test fitted and the gear leg opening shaped to suit.

55mm

Mark back 55mm from the axle bolt hole and drill a 1 1/8 hole for access to the valve as
shown above left. Slip the spat down over the wheel until the outside axle bolt hole lines up
with the axle extension: you will probably have to trim the main gear leg opening slightly to
get the spat fully down over the wheel. A typical inside cut is shown marked above right, but
check your own spat to main gear leg fitting then mark and trim accordingly.
Fit the spat into position with the axle bolt and the
inside screws and make sure that there is a gap
between the main gear leg and the top of the spat
that will allow the hydraulic brake line to pass
through without any risk of chafing on the spat.
Loosen the 2 top bolts that hold the spat mounting
plate one hole is slotted to allow adjustment and
rotate the spat until the top rear is 9 (230mm)
above the ground, then tighten the bolts.
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9
(230mm)

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit wheel spats

Check that the tire has about 5mm clearance all round the bottom of each spat, then remove
the spats and set aside for painting. Completed main wheel spats are shown above.
Nose wheel spat
The nose wheel spat is in 2 sections, front and back. The front section is fitted to the nose
wheel with the axle bolt and a single threaded screw into each side of the nose leg yoke, while
the rear section is attached to the front section with 8 x 3/32 screws into captive nuts.
Start by fitting both sections together and
taping them to each other, then drill 3/32
holes around the join, 4 on each side, for the
captive nuts that will hold the 2 halves
together as shown at right.

Captive
nuts and
screws
Machine
screw

Valve
access
Axle
nut

Countersink the screw holes in the front

section and fit captive nuts (shown above) to
the rear joggle use countersunk 3/32 rivets
to hold the captive nuts in place.
Screw both halves of the spat together and
check the fit around the gear leg opening in
the top of the spat. Trim the gear leg opening
so that it is even on both sides. The opening
should look like the example shown at right:
note that the rear of the opening (arrowed in
green) is slightly behind the join line.
While the spat halves are screwed together,
measure back 55mm from the axle bolt on
the left-hand side only and drill a 1 1/8 hole
for access to the tire valve.
Grind out a gentle notch in the joggle of the
rear section of the spat (as circled at right) to
allow clearance for the front axle spacers.
Captive nuts fitted to the joggle can be seen
in the photo at right.

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Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit wheel spats
Now both halves of the spat can be fitted to the nose
wheel and held in place with the axle bolt, then the
spat can be aligned and the hole for the machine
screw in the yoke can be marked.
Support the front of the aircraft so that the nose
wheel is off the ground and remove the front axle
and wheel.
Fit the front of the spat over the yoke and refit the
front wheel and the axle, passing the axle through
the spat, yoke and wheel as shown at right.
Lower the nose wheel back onto the ground.
Fit the rear of the spat to the front section and move the back of the spat up or down until the
whole spat sits level or slightly low at the back (the back will tend to move up as weight is
added to the aircraft), then hold the spat in that position and mark the location of the holes for
the machine screws on each side of the yoke. A completed nose wheel spat is shown below.

Support the front of the aircraft again so that the nose wheel is off the ground and remove
both spat halves along with the front axle and wheel. Leave the wheel out of the yoke for the
moment so that you will not accidentally drill through the yoke and into the tire.
Drill a 9/64 hole in each side of the yoke at the marked locations and thread to 3/32 UNF
then refit the spat and wheel again, this time fitting the short 3/32 screws into the yoke.
Lower the nose wheel back onto the ground and check that the alignment is satisfactory and
that the tire has about 5mm clearance around the bottom of the spat, then remove both halves
of the spat, set them aside for painting and refit the nose wheel.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Pre-fit wheel spats task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>General

Pre-Paint>Wings>General
In our factory we combine several smaller tasks on the wing into the one three day operation:
we work on the top surface first, starting with the fuel filler body and then the winglet, then
we move to the wing root and install the fuel fittings, fit the breather tube and cut the recess
for the flap arm. The next day we turn the wing over and work on the bottom surface, cutting
the aileron cable mount inspection hole, fitting the flaps and the quick drains, and then on the
third day we fit the ailerons. Other minor tasks, such as fitting the strobe mounts, can be done
at any time.
In this section of the manual each step of the operation is broken out as one of a series of tasks
that are ordered in the sequence that we would normally perform them.
The homebuilder could (and should) follow the same sequence but with the whole operation
spread over several days, perhaps at a rate of one task per day.

We support each wing on a pair of trestles that place the wing at a convenient height for
working, about 900mm high or bench height, and we cover the tops of the trestles in carpet to
protect the wing surface. When working on the bottom of the wing we use a foam wedge on
each trestle under the rear of the wing to stop the wing from rocking when the curved surface
is facing downwards.

Tools may be placed on the wing surface while you are working but you must take care not to
drop anything onto the wing surface the surface is not designed for that type of loading, so
treat it with respect and place your tools carefully and gently onto it.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit fuel tank filler body

Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit fuel tank filler body

Objectives of this task:
In this task the fuel tank filler body location will be determined for each wing, a hole will be
drilled into the upper wing surface and a smaller hole will be drilled into the wing tank and
then the filler body will be fitted and then flocked into place and covered with peel cloth
while the flock cures.
Materials required:
from Card # J11 Fuel Components 2 x fuel tank filler bodies:
Epoxy resin and flock
Mark the position of the opening
First we need to mark the side-to-side distance from the wing root to the centre of the filler
body opening and in order to do this we must determine the exact length of the wing tank. To
do this take the supplied breather tube and shape the end to a point as shown below. Feed the
breather tube into the tank from the top front wing root fitting and carefully work it past the
tank ribs until you find the end of the tank.

Mark the breather tube level with the wing root at that point then withdraw the tube and mark
where the position of the end of the tank on the top of the wing. Measure back 150mm from
that point and that is the initial side-to-side location of the filler body. Repeat the process of
finding the end of the tank and measuring back 150mm on the other wing and then make any
adjustments that may be required to make both filler bodies the same distance from each wing
root. Mark this final side-to-side position of each filler body.

Take a set square and place it under the wing and against the leading edge and then measure
back 365mm from the leading edge mark this fore and aft position of each filler body.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit fuel tank filler body
Cut the opening
Now we can drill through the outer surface of the wing with a hole saw, clean away excess
filler and then drill a slightly smaller hole into the wing tank.
During cutting care must be taken to prevent any drilling waste from falling into the tank.
If you have a compressor and an air line with a variable flow valve you could place a line into
the tank through one of the wing root fittings and very slightly pressurise the tank, but be
careful to only use a small amount of pressure too much pressure may rupture the tank!
Otherwise you could have someone hold a strong vacuum cleaner nozzle near the hole saw
while you are drilling, but whatever you do make sure that no waste falls into the tank.

Drill a 66 - 68mm hole into the upper wing surface only, and not into the fuel tank. Hold the
drill at right angles to the wing surface and very gently drill until you can see darkness at the
bottom of the cut (as indicated in the yellow circles in the photo above right) this will mean
that you have reached the gaps in the expandable filler between the upper wing surface and
the fuel tank.

Lever out the cut out piece and carefully grind away all of the filler until you reach the top of
the wing tank, then drill a 54mm hole into the tank, taking care not to drop anything into the
tank.
In these photos, taken in our factory, the tank has been slightly pressurised so that all waste is
blown away from any opening, but a vacuum cleaner hose held close to the surface being cut
could achieve much the same result.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit fuel tank filler body
Fit the filler body

Now, working slowly, enlarge the hole in the tank (sandpaper taped to a section of tubing is
useful for this) just enough so that the filler body is a good firm fit into the tank. Remove the
filler body and clean all of the area surrounding the holes. Sand/roughen the outside of the
filler body and place masking tape around the inside to keep flock from entering.

Mix a batch of resin and coat the outside of the filler body and the top of the wing tank area
where it will be mounted. Add flock to the resin and carefully fill the area around the filler
body, working the flock into the gap between the tank and the wing surface first and then
filling back towards the opening, making sure that any bubbles are worked out.

Place the filler body in position, aligning the locating holes (circled at above right) fore and
aft and with the earth wire hole facing forwards, and level the upper rim of the filler body with
the top of the wing surface. Flock and fill back around the filler body.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit fuel tank filler body

When the flock is almost level with the top of the wing surface, cut a piece of peel cloth and
carefully brush it into place with no wrinkles or bubbles. Leave overnight to cure.
Next day remove the peel cloth and seal the opening with a square of plastic or heavy card
secured with masking tape to keep the tank free of dust and dirt.
Final filling of any slight depressions in the flock will be covered in the Painting>Pre-paint
preparation task.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit fuel tank filler body task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root

Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root

Objectives of this task:
To fit all of the fuel and breather fittings in the wing root and trim the flap arm cutouts.
Materials required:
Card # J11 Fuel Components
Steps
1. Fit the fuel fittings
2. Fit the breather tube
3. Cut out the flap arm recess
Fit the fuel fittings
Breather

Blank
Fuel gauge
Finger filters

Start by removing all the protective tape from the openings, then thread a finger filter into
each of the bottom fuel fittings and remove this will clear any surplus sealant that may have
accumulated around the fittings. Clean the finger filters and apply a smear of Loctite 577 to
the threads then refit the filters and tighten firmly. Take care not to cross-thread any fittings.
Apply a drop of Loctite 577 to the threads of the blanking plug and fit to the top rear fitting.
Assemble the fittings onto the
breather tube as shown and then
insert the breather tube into the
front top fitting and work it fully
into the wing tank there are cutouts in the top of the tank ribs to
allow the breather tube to fit along
the top of the tank and it may be
necessary to gently manoeuvre the
tube through them. A very slight
bend about 200mm back from the
end of the tube can be useful. Push
the tube in until the end of the tank
is felt and then back it out roughly
5mm.
Once the tube is in place, apply a smear of Loctite 577 to the threads of the brass nipple and
tighten it into the fitting, then do the same with the gland nut. The 90 curved end of the
breather tube should face the rear of the wing and be horizontal when finally fitted.
Place a square of tape over the fuel gauge opening for the moment. Due to the breakable
nature of the fuel gauge it will be calibrated and installed after the wing has been painted.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root
Fit the breather tube and the fuel cap
The breather tube will now be visible through the fuel filler opening on top of the wing.

Move it to the rear of the opening and behind the filler body, then take the plain earth wire
and thread it into the tank from the filler and work it along the bottom of the fuel tank and
through the gap in the bottom of each tank baffle towards the wing root as shown in the photo
above. Proceed carefully until the entire length of plain earth wire is inside the tank.
Aluminium
Breather Tube
Fuel Filler
Body
6g x self
tapper

Earth wire & fuel cap

retaining wire

Plastic
P clip

6G Speed
Nut

Fit the speed nut onto the P clip, fit the P clip around the breather tube and then fit the 6g
self-tapping screw through the 4mm ring terminal, through the fuel filler body and into the
speed nut on the P clip. See the drawing on the next page.
You may need to make up a tool to assist in the fitting of the
P clip here is a photo of the tool that we use in our factory
for the purpose. The end (circled) is used to push the breather
tube up and towards the fuel filler body so that the screw can
be fitted. The tool is shown in use on the next page.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root

The drawing above shows the components and the process of assembly so that you can see
how the parts all fit together, while the photo below right shows the actual fitting taking place
in the fuel filler opening.
Note that the blue ring terminal will be
pushed down to a horizontal position before
the screw is tightened so that the earth wires
will not foul the fuel cap when it is fitted.
The braided length of the earth cable is the
fuel cap retaining cable and it should now be
connected to the bottom of the post on the
fuel cap with a machine screw with a
drop of Loctite 242 on it.
The fuel filler cap, which comes partly
assembled on the card, can now be placed
into the opening with the locating dowel
fitted into the recess at the rear of the opening and tightened in place and the vent tube
opening can be taped over until after painting.
The vent tubes will be fitted to the fuel filler caps when the wings are being prepared for final
fitting in the Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root
Cut out the flap arm recess

You will need to cut out the marked flap arm recess in the top of the wing root. Care is needed
around the wing attachment lug (circled): under no circumstances must any material be
removed from the lug.

When using a jigsaw near the wing

attachment lug you will need to make
sure that the shoe of the jigsaw is
completely level when cutting near the
wing attachment lug as shown above.
Use a hacksaw in a holder to remove
the final section of the wing skin above
the wing attachment lug, finishing off
carefully with a flat file as shown
above.

Cut down the rear of the wing as shown at right, angling out from where the saw is in the
photo to finish the cut level with the bottom surface of the wing, shown indicated the red line.
Sand all cut surfaces to a smooth finish.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root task.
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Pre-Paint>Wings>Cut aileron cable openings

Pre-Paint>Wings>Cut aileron cable openings

Objectives of this task:
Check the position of the wing rib near the aileron cable inspection openings and then check,
mark and cut the aileron cable openings.
Check and cut the aileron cable inspection opening
Turn the wing upside down and pack under the trailing edge so that the wing is stable.

Start by drilling a 38mm hole in the centre of the shaded rectangular area, and then place a
ruler into the hole towards the wing root until it touches the rib. Mark a reference line on the
wing (140mm has been used as the reference circled in the photos above).
Now remove the ruler from the hole and lay it on the wing with the reference mark lined up
and mark where the end of the ruler lies, which is where the outboard side of the rib is
located, and draw a line fore and aft at that point. Measure 12mm from that line towards the
wing root and draw another line: this marks both sides of the wing rib.

20mm min

65mm max

The position of the inspection hole should be no closer than 20mm from the outboard side of
the rib and no more than 65mm from the trailing edge of the wing. If it is not then you will
need to move the markings accordingly.
Use a jigsaw to cut the rectangular inspection hole slightly undersize and then carefully widen
to 80mm wide and 120mm front to back with rounded corners to fit the clear cover (drawing
on next page). Set the clear cover aside until after painting.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Cut aileron cable openings

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Cut aileron cable openings
Now look into the hole that you have just cut
look for the black marks (arrowed at right) on
the rib that shows the location of the aileron
cable clamp bolt holes. Drill a second 38mm
hole as shown at right, slightly inboard of the
wing rib with the fore and aft alignment being
exactly in line with the aileron cable clamp
bolt holes. This hole will be used to access the
rear of the cable clamp bolts.
This completes the underwing work, now we
need to check the aileron cable slot marking on
the upper wing surface.
Check and cut the aileron cable exit slot

With the wing still upside down, lay a setsquare on the wing and use it to transfer the location
of the outboard side of the wing rib to the upper wing surface. Mark the rib location and then
turn the wing right side up.
It is critical that the aileron cable slot be accurately positioned in relation to the wing rib
because the aileron cable will be clamped to the wing rib and it must align with the aileron
drive arm. The aileron drive arm and thus the aileron is positioned in relation to the slot in the
later task Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons.
The marked slot should be slightly (~2mm) outboard of the wing rib. If that is not the case
then move the slot marking laterally until it is slightly outside of the wing rib. The fore and aft
position of the slot will be correct as marked and the overall slot dimension should be
approximately 15mm wide and 70mm long.
Once the location has been confirmed then cut the slot out: drill each end of the slot slightly
undersize and use a jigsaw the join the holes then widen to the marked size with a file.
If the aileron cable inspection hole on the underside of the wing has been correctly marked
then the aileron cable slot will usually be correct too, but it is still good practise to check
carefully before cutting it is much better to check first and then cut.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Cut aileron cable openings task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit quick drain sumps

Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit quick drain sumps

Objectives of this task:
To flock the quick drain sumps into the wing tanks at the rear of each wing root and then
clean and seal the fuel tanks.
Materials required:
Epoxy resin and flock
Card # 11 Fuel components
Mark and drill the wing
Turn the wing upside down and wedge the wing so that the top surface is level and solid.
If you have a compressor and an air line with a variable flow valve you could place a line into
the tank through one of the wing root fittings and very slightly pressurise the tank, but be
careful to only use a small amount of pressure too much pressure may rupture the tank!
Otherwise you could have someone hold a strong vacuum cleaner nozzle near the hole saw
while you are drilling, but whatever you do make sure that no waste falls into the tank.
Now we can drill through the outer surface of the wing with a hole saw, clean away excess
filler and then drill a smaller hole into the wing tank.
Measure the distance from the wing root to the first rib, which should be between 55mm and
60mm: that defines the inboard end of the wing tank. Now measure a further 40mm into the
tank for a total of approximately 95mm to 100mm and mark a line, then measure back 580mm
from the leading edge and mark another line. Where these lines cross is where the quick drain
sump will be fitted.

Drill a 1 hole into the outer wing surface only, and not into the fuel tank.
Hold the drill at right angles to the wing surface and very gently drill until you can see
darkness at the bottom of the cut: this will mean that you have reached the gaps in the
expandable filler between the wing surface and the fuel tank.
Lever out the cut-out piece and carefully grind away all of the filler until you reach the
surface of the wing tank, then drill a 3/8 hole into the tank, taking care not to drop anything
into the tank. You could turn the wing right side up for this step if you wish.
In these photos, taken in our factory, the tank has been slightly pressurised so that all waste is
blown away from any opening, but a vacuum cleaner hose held close to the surface being cut
could achieve much the same result.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit quick drain sumps
Fit the quick drain sump body

Clean away any dust then sand and test fit the quick drain body.
Mix a small batch of resin and coat the quick drain body and the mounting hole, then add
flock and bed the quick drain body into place.

Add flock to build up to surface level and smooth away any excess with a clean mixing stick.
Make sure that no flock sets across the drain hole clean away any excess inside the drain
hole with a length of wire or similar. Leave overnight to cure.
The flock will be partly covered by the glass fibre cloth lay up for the flaps and any roughness
in the finish will be rectified in the Painting>Pre paint preparation task.
Clean the wing tanks
The fuel system will be flushed through in the Testing phase prior to flight.
Next day thoroughly clean the fuel tanks to remove any dirt or debris that may have fallen
into the fuel tanks during the construction process: vacuum inside the fuel gauge opening then
remove the cover from the fuel filler cap and blow compressed air into the tank to move
debris and at the same time hold a vacuum cleaner nozzle at the fuel filler and fuel gauge
openings so that you have a continuous airflow through the tank.
When you are satisfied that the tank is clean, seal all openings into the tank: the fuel filler
opening, the quick drain fitting, the fuel gauge opening and all wing root fuel fittings.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit quick drain sumps task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps

Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps
Objectives of this task:
In this task each flap will be positioned and the flap brackets will be glassed onto the wing.
The flaps are designed to stow in the flap
recess at the rear of the wing with the front
upper surface of the flap fitting snugly under
the lip at the top of the flap recess as shown
arrowed in the drawing at right.
In order to achieve an aerodynamic fit the
top rear of the wing must be carefully
prepared before the flap can be positioned
and the flap brackets glassed into place.
Flap mounting is a critical issue that can affect the aerodynamic efficiency of the wing as well
as general flight characteristics and considerable care must be taken with this task.
This is probably the single most important task in the Manual!
Materials required:
Card # J16 Electric Flaps
Glass fibre cloth bag labelled Hollow Wing, Epoxy resin and flock
Prepare the wing
Turn the wing upside down and pack under the trailing edge so that the wing is stable.

There are 4 squares of peel cloth under the gel coat at the trailing edge of the wing where the
flap brackets will be located carefully cut one corner then lift and remove the peel cloth
from each area then lightly sand the area under the peel cloth.
The rear of the wing as supplied should be a uniform distance
back from the rear of the flap recess. The photo at right
shows the workshop tool that we use to check the depth and a
line (in black, near the edge) that has just been marked.
If your wings have a black line like this marked along the
rear of the underside of the wing then you should trim
carefully to that line before starting on the next step.
Note that the wing is upside down in all photos in this task.
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Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps
Position the flap
The flap is positioned in 3 stages:

Initial flap position: lay 2 lengths of aluminium angle on the wing surface between the outer
peel cloth squares and fix to the forward part of the wing with cloth tape as shown above.
Place the front of the flap onto the lip at the trailing edge of the wing and clip the trailing edge
of the flap to the aluminium angle with spring clips (circled in yellow above).

Lateral flap position: the intention now is to position the flap so that the distance from the
centreline of the wing mounting bolt holes to the first rib of the flap will be 8mm.
In the factory we use a method that entails measuring the distance from the centre of the wing
mounting bolt hole to the outside of the wing mounting lug, then adding 8mm to that distance,
which gives us the distance that the first rib of the flap must be from a ruler or straightedge
held against the wing mounting lugs.
Move the flap gently until you are satisfied that the distance from the centreline of the wing
mounting bolt hole to the first rib of the flap is exactly 8mm. When that position is correct
mark the wing and the flap with 2 ruled lines fore and aft over the gap between the flap and
the wing (use a marker pen) so that you can easily realign the flap to the wing.
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Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps

Flap to wing spacing: tape 6 pairs of mixing sticks together. Place 1 pair into each end of the
gap between the flap and the wing (green arrow above right) and 1 pair under the aluminium
angle on each side of the flap to wing gap (blue arrows above right) to create the required
curve to the underside of the wing as shown above left. Check that the flap is pushed forwards
until the pairs of mixing sticks are being held firmly in place.
Match the flap to the wing
Look under the wing at the point where the flap touches the trailing edge of the wing: the
objective in this step is to fit the trailing edge of the wing to exactly match the flap, so mark
the trailing edge of the wing where the flap touches and then carefully grind the trailing edge
away until the flap sits snugly into the wing recess. Shaping should be done with a long
sanding block: all shaping should be gentle in contour.

Leave the rear of the trailing edge of the wing straight and concentrate on shaping the
underside of the lip (which is currently on top because the wing is upside down) on the
trailing edge where the flap fits to an angle of approximately 30 degrees as shown above right
(the angle has been emphasised with red lines in the photo) this will allow the flap to retract
and seat snugly under the lip with virtually no gap.
Shaping of the trailing edge will require several adjustments and each time the flap must be
realigned onto the wing, using the marks that you made earlier, and the areas to be shaped are
marked and then the flap is removed and the trailing edge of the wing is sanded to suit.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps
Take your time and get each flap exactly
right: effort applied at this stage will be
repaid in flying pleasure later.
When the angle shaping is finished use a
straightedge to do a final check of the rear of
the wing (which should be absolutely
straight), while the angled underside of the
trailing edge of the wing will be a precise
match to the shape of the flap.

Prepare to flock the flap brackets

Position the flap onto the wing again. Place some very thin spacers (paint thickness, or about
0.2mm) between the top of the flap and the lip at the rear of the trailing edge. Reset the lateral
flap position and refit the mixing stick spacers as described at the top of the previous page.
Be very particular about the flap positioning at this time because you are about to mount the
flaps permanently, and once they are mounted it will be extremely difficult to make any
changes without causing considerable damage!

Remove the peel cloth from the outside and the inside of the flap
brackets. Lightly sand the inside and outside of each bracket.
Lightly sand the entire peel cloth area where each bracket will be
mounted to ensure a good bond.
Using regular brown packing tape, gently tape over the gap between
the flap and the wing as shown at right to prevent any flock from
entering the gap. Take care not to move the flap in any direction!
Check that the mixer stick spacers are still correctly positioned.
Place a bush in each flap post and carefully
sand off the sharp edges from the rounded end
of each flap post (circled at right).
Cut the glass fibre cloth from the bag marked
Hollow Wing as marked cut slightly outside
the marked area.
There will be 3 pieces of glass fibre cloth for
each flap bracket. Lay them on the wing in
front of each flap bracket position.
Make a final check of the flap alignment and make any final adjustments that may be
required: remember, this next step will be almost impossible to undo so be absolutely sure
that the flap is correctly aligned before moving on to the next step.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps
Fit the flap brackets
In this step the flap brackets will be flocked into place and then covered with 3 layers of glass
fibre cloth. This all needs to be completed in the one continuous operation. In our factory this
step takes over an hour with an experienced person, so allow perhaps 2 hours or slightly more.

Mix a batch of resin and coat the inside of the flap brackets and the wing surface where the
flap brackets will be attached. Mix a small separate firm batch of flock and fill the inside of
the angled end of the flap brackets as shown above right.

Place each bracket: holding the bracket clear of the wing, insert the bolt through the bracket
and the bush, then let the bracket rotate down to the wing. Do this for each bracket.
At this point recheck the marker pen mark across the wing and flap to be sure that nothing has
moved.
Once all four brackets have been placed apply a gentle downward pressure to seat each one
and then round off any excess flock around the base of each bracket to an even contour with
the rounded end of a mixing stick. This rounded contour will help to avoid air bubbles when
you apply the glass fibre cloth in the next step.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps

Working on one bracket at a time, wet an area around each bracket that is slightly wider than
a piece of the glass fibre cloth that you cut out in the Prepare to flock the flap brackets step
above, then place a piece of glass fibre cloth onto the bracket and brush it on, working down
the sides of the bracket and onto the wing, taking care to brush out any air bubbles and paying
particular attention to the curved flock join between the bracket and the wing.
Repeat this process for each of the 3 layers.
Note that the first layer should be slightly wetter than the following 2 layers.
The photos above show the second layer being applied.
There will be some excess cloth that will cover the brown packing tape this will be cut off
after the resin has cured.
Leave overnight to cure.

Next day heat the excess cloth along the wing-to-flap gap and cut it away carefully with a
sharp knife.
Remove the brown packing tape and clean away any excess fibre and flock.
Remove the flap from the wing, taking care to save the pivot bushes and bolts, and store for
later painting.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps
Check the slot size
At this point you have mounted the flap to the wing with the flap upper surface correctly
aligned in relation to the trailing edge of the wing. Now the slot size the gap between the
trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the flap must be checked.
The slot size is very important when the flap is extended the airflow through the slot
provides control of the airflow velocity over the flap, and thus the slot or gap size must be
identical along the width of the flap or there could be a rolling moment when the flaps are
extended.
To check this, turn the wing
right side up and fit the flap,
taking care to fit the bush
before each bolt.
Deflect each flap to as close to
39.5 as you can and hold the
flap in that position at each end
with cloth tape.
Now measure the slot size at
each flap post as shown in the
drawing at right: the slot size
should be as shown, but the
critical measurement is that the
slot size should be the same
across the full width of the flap
and the slot size should be the same for both wings at the same flap deflection.
If you have been careful in the initial flap alignment the slot size should fall within the
acceptable tolerance range, but if you need to make adjustments then they should only be
minor and these adjustments should be made with a long straight sanding block, starting by
slightly altering the angled under-face of the trailing edge of the wing and only if necessary
then altering the trailing edge of the wing itself.
Final adjustments will be made in the Testing>Flight testing task.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Mount flaps task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit wing tips

Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit wing tips

Materials required:
Epoxy resin and flock
Fit the wing tips
If you intend to fit strobe lights to the wingtips, drill a hole in the wing root and use a long rod
to route the strobe wiring along behind the leading edge and out of the wing root. The wiring
will need to be routed out through the strobe mount before fitting the wingtips.
Pre-fit the wing tip to the end of the wing and make sure that the wing tip sits firmly inside
the wing and that the leading edge of the wing tip is level with the leading edge of the wing.
Make adjustments as required some material may need to be removed from the joggle in
order to clear the end of the spar (circled in the top photo below).
The wing tip should fit in hard against the joggle step.

Hold the wing tip in position and fix in place with 6G self-tapping screws, then remove the
wing tip. Remove the peel cloth from the wing tip and sand the surfaces to be joined.
Mix a batch of resin and coat the surfaces then add flock to the remainder. Apply a 2mm layer
of flock to the wing tip and fit the wing tip into place: hold the wing tip slightly closed as you
place it over the end of the wing and then let the wing tip expand into the wing so that the
flock is not pushed out ahead of the wing tip. Fix in place with the 6G self-tapping screws.
Wipe away any excess flock with a clean mixing stick and leave overnight to cure.
Leave to cure overnight and then remove the screws. The screw holes will be filled later as
part of the Pre-Paint preparation task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit wing tips
Fit the strobes (optional)
Should you elect to fit strobe lights to the wingtips you will find a shaped fibreglass strobe
mounting base in with the strobe packing. Decide exactly where you want the strobe to fit and
in what position, and then shape the underside of the strobe mount so that it will fit in the
desired location and fix it in position with flock and hold it with 2 self-tapping screws until
the flock has cured.
You will then need to route the wires out through the strobe base before fitting the wingtip.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit wing tips task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons

Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons
Objectives of this task:
In this task the ailerons and the pre-mould strips will be sized and trimmed, then flocked onto
the wings and glassed in place, and the next day the ailerons will be fitted to the wings.
Materials and equipment required:
Card # J5 Aileron for the hinges
Epoxy resin and flock
Length of flat timber 150m x 1250mm, one side covered in brown packing tape
Pavers or half bricks for weights to hold the pre-mould strip in place while the flock cures
Size the ailerons and pre-mould strips
For this step you will need to work on both wings together.
Mount the flaps temporarily with just the bolts and spacers, holding them in the fully retracted
position with strips of tape over the top of the flap onto the wings.
Check the distance from the inside of the wing tip to the outboard end of the flap: the distance
should be very close to equal for both wings, and in the range of 1215mm to 1220mm. If the
distance is not equal for each wing then it may be necessary to trim the end of one flap
slightly, but check the aileron lengths first.
With each wing right side up, lay the
aileron in place on the wing and use a ruler
or straightedge to line the aileron drive arm
up with the aileron cable slot that was cut
previously in the Pre-Paint>Wings>Cut
aileron cable inspection opening task. The
drive arm should very slightly (~1-2mm
max) overlap the slot.
With the aileron held in this position mark
the outboard end of the aileron where it
touches the wing tip/winglet and mark the
inboard end where it touches the flap.

Aileron

Aileron
drive arm

Aileron

Wing
cable slot
Repeat the process with the other aileron on
the other wing. Both ailerons should now
be marked to an equal length in the range of
1215mm to 1220mm, ideally 1218mm
overall, with the aileron drive arms both located either outboard or inboard of the slot.

At this point if the aileron or flap needs to be trimmed then you can make adjustments as
required to equalise the length, mark carefully and trim with a hacksaw or jigsaw and sand to
a smooth finish. Take care to make accurate cuts that exactly match the adjoining surface.
At this stage each aileron should fit snugly into the gap between the wing tip and the flap with
very little or no clearance at each end: when the ailerons have been finally fitted into place
then the finished clearance can be adjusted with a sanding block.
Now cut the ends of the pre-mould strip so that it fits snugly between the wing tip and the
flap. You may need to trim the lower outboard end of the curved T rib slightly.
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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons
Prepare and fit the pre-mould strip
Turn the wing upside down and wedge the wing so that the top surface is level and solid.

Remove the peel cloth from the pre-mould strip (front of the flat part and both sides of the
curved rib) and sand lightly. Remove the peel cloth from the wing recess in front of the
aileron and sand carefully. Remove all dust from the area.
Protect the outboard end of the flap from any excess resin or flock by covering it in brown
packing tape. For each wing, mix a 280g batch of resin, and divide into a 240g batch and a
40g batch. Add flock to the 240g batch of resin and mix it in thoroughly.

Apply a layer of flock to the recess on the wing the layer should be around 3 to 5mm above
the level of the wing.

Using the 40g batch of resin, coat the curved part of the wing and the front of the curved rib
on the pre-mould strip, then apply a D-shaped layer of flock to the bottom of the curved rib
the layer should be as wide as the bottom of the curve and about 10mm deep.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons

Fit the pre-mould strip into place position carefully slightly above the final location and then
press gently forwards and then down into place. Wipe away any excess flock.

Place the tape-covered board on top of the pre-mould strip and weight with several paving
blocks or half-bricks. Wipe away any excess flock along the bottom of the curved rib, then
brush on 3 layers of glass fibre cloth around the gap at the wing tip end of the pre-mould strip
as circled in the photo at above right.

Apply a coat of resin to the back of the curved rib/wing join and lay in a single length of glass
fibre cloth (from the Wing bag). The lower edge should be slightly in from the trailing edge of
the wing. Brush the layer in carefully taking care to avoid any bubbles or gaps.
Leave the wing/pre-mould assembly for 24 hours to cure before continuing with this task.
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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons
Check and cut the aileron recess
Next day turn the wing right side up.
Lay the aileron on top of the wing and align the rear edge of the
aileron with the rear edge of the flap and the rear edge of the wing
tip/winglet and check that the pre-marked aileron recess on the top
of the wing is parallel to the front edge of the aileron.
Make any required corrections to the markings.
Put the aileron to one side and cut out the recess with a jigsaw,
then sand to a smooth finish with a long sanding block.

Fit the aileron

Turn the wing upside down again and wedge the wing so that the
top surface is level and solid.
Fit the aileron in place and clip
the trailing edge of the aileron
the flap and the wing
tip/winglet. The front edge of
the aileron should be sitting on
top of the pre-mould strip.

flap

aileron

Check that the trailing edges are

lined up correctly and then
mark the pre-mould strip along
the front edge of the aileron
with a felt marker pen.
Remove the aileron and cut along the marked line with a jigsaw then sand to a smooth finish
with a long sanding block.

Drive
arm

Aileron

Refit the aileron and align the trailing edges again.

There are 3 hinges per aileron: 1 at each end of the aileron and 1 inside of the drive arm.
Mark the hinge locations the outside of the end hinges should be 50mm in from each end of
the aileron and the distance from the end of the aileron to the nearside of the inner drive arm
hinge should be 360mm as shown above.
Mark each hinge location and identify both sides of each hinge: Hinge A, Hinge B, etc.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons

Place the aileron hinges in those locations with the flat side of each hinge facing upwards and
the hinge pin aligned in the centre of the ~1mm gap between the aileron and the wing.
Do not place the hinge flat side down if you do then the holes will not line up correctly
when you come to fit the hinge.
Use a 3/32 drill to make a pilot hole opposite the pin side of each rivet hole, check that the
hinge and hole positioning is correct and then carefully expand to 3/16 holes.
Test fit each hinge with 4 Clecoes and fit the hinge pin into place as shown above. Each hinge
pin is inserted from the inside towards the outside of each hinge. Mark the location of the end
of each hinge pin (circled at above right). Number each hinge and its location.
Check that the aileron to pre-mould strip gap is even along the full length then remove the
aileron and hinges.
Sand the flat side of each hinge and the locations where they will be fitted, then mix a small
batch of resin and coat each area. Add flock to the remaining resin and apply a 2mm layer of
flock to each hinge and flock into place using clean Clecoes in the outer holes as before.

Using a 120 countersink bit carefully countersink the 4 inner holes just enough so that a
countersunk rivet head will sit flush with the surface when fitted and rivet the 4 inner holes
with countersunk rivets. Now remove the Clecoes from the outside holes one at a time,
countersink each hole and fit a countersunk rivet until each hinge has 8 countersunk rivets.
Take care to keep flock away from the hinge pins during this step: clean the hinges while the
flock is still wet then leave both parts (wing and aileron) separate and leave overnight to cure,
then store the ailerons for later painting. Clean the Clecoes in acetone after use.
Next day use a rat tail file to make a slot into the wing at each hinge pin mark (example
circled at above right), fit the hinge pin and the hinge pin retainer, mark the retainer screw
hole and drill a 3/32 hole. Pop rivet a captive nut under each retaining screw hole using 2
3/32 countersunk rivets.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons
Fit the hinge gussets
Turn the wing right side up for this final step.
The hinge gussets provide strength and
prevent flexing of the pre-mould strip around
the aileron hinges. Each hinge will have a
gusset flocked in place at each side.
Cut 6 gussets per wing (for a total of 12
gussets) and fit each gusset to the pre-mould
strip as shown in the drawing at right:
Each gusset will need to be sanded to a good
fit, then flock one gusset in place at each side
of each hinge refer to the photo below for an
example of gusset placement.

Wing

Aileron

Pre-mould
strip

Position each gusset carefully into place on a bed of flock, then use a clean mixing stick
dipped in resin to round the flock off to a smooth R6 fillet.
An R6 fillet is about a finger wipe radius. Do not wipe away any more flock or the load will
not be transferred correctly and the gusset may break away in use.

The photo above shows a typical gusset fitting.

Leave the gussets overnight to cure.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit pitot tube to strut

Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit pitot tube to strut

Objectives of this task:
To fit the Pitot head and tube to the right-hand strut prior to painting.

340mm

Take the right hand strut and measure down 340mm from the upper/wing end of the airfoilshaped section, mark and drill a 10mm hole in the front of the strut.
Feed the supplied ID plastic tubing into
the hole and down the strut until it can be
seen at the bottom, then fit the top end of the
tube over the pitot fitting and superglue and
lock wire the tube in place as shown at right.
Feed all the tube into the strut until the pitot
head mounting plate sits against the strut
then pop rivet the plate in place as shown in
the photo below.
Refer the drawing on the next page for
details.

Lock
wire

Pitot
head

Tie the excess plastic tube to the outside of

the strut and set the strut aside for test fitting
and painting.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit pitot tube to strut

This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit pitot tube to strut task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings

Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings

Objectives of this task:
To test fit the wings and flaps to the fuselage prior to painting. This task is intended purely to
make sure of the fit and to make any adjustments that may be required so that there will be no
issues during the final fit after the wings and fuselage have been painted.
Each wing will be held in place with 4 bolts in this task and no nuts will be used this is
purely a test fit task after which the wings will be removed and prepared for painting.
In our factory we use 3 people for this task, so ask 2 friends over to help you.
Do not try to do this task with less than 3 people or you risk dropping the wing.
While the wings are in place the strut to wing fairings will be fitted and the strut/main gear to
fuselage fairings will be pre-fitted and then removed for painting.
Equipment required
2x4 timber for wing support see the 3rd page of this task for details
Preparation
Place 2 trestles beside the fuselage and lay the wing on them.
It is very important that the AN4-14A wing attach bolts fit snugly through the holes in the
attach bushes on the wing and the aluminium wing attach lugs on the fuselage. Test fit a bolt
in each hole, and if the bolt will not fit through to full depth then very carefully ream the
holes with a hand reamer out until the bolts fit correctly.
It is also very important that the AN175-15A strut attach bolts fit snugly though the holes in
the strut attach lug under the wing, the lower fuselage mount and the top and bottom holes in
the strut itself. Test fit a bolt in each hole, and if the bolt will not fit through to full depth then
very carefully ream the holes with a hand reamer out until the bolts fit correctly.
Do not ream any more than is absolutely necessary to get a snug fit, and do not use a drill in
place of a reamer!
These are critical fit items and great care must be taken!
Using a sanding block, lightly sand both
sides of each wing attach lug and the upper
and lower strut mounts to clean any debris
away.
Fit the bottom of the strut to the lower
fuselage mount with an AN175-15A bolt.
Rest the outboard end of the strut against a
saw stool as shown at right.
Lay 2 AN4-14A wing attach bolts on top of
the fuselage where you can easily reach
them.
Now you are ready to test fit the wings.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings
Test fit the wing
Because the precise alignment of the wing bolts is critical the bushes in the wing attach lugs
in the wing root that the bolts pass through are mounted in a bed of flock to allow for fine
adjustment during fitting.

The process that we use in our factory is to get the wing prepared and ready to fit, then heat
up the wing root bushes and fit the wing. Heating of the bushes is done by placing a soldering
iron in each bush as shown above and waiting until the other side of the bush is too hot to
touch comfortably. This gives 3 or 4 minutes working time, which is usually enough.

One person holds the outboard end of the wing while the other 2 hold the front and back of
the wing root. Walk the wing in to the fuselage and guide the wing attach lugs into the
aluminium wing attach brackets on the fuselage. The fit will be tight and it may take some
careful positioning of the wing to get them to fit the outboard end of the wing may need to
be moved forward or backwards to get the correct alignment. As soon as one bolt can be fitted
though then do so and then that bolt can be used as a pivot to work the other lug into place.
The wing attach bolts are fed in from the front and back of the wing toward the centre of the
wing.
The fit of the bolts will be tight and you will have to tap the bolts into place using a soft
hammer and a brass drift/punch. Be careful and resist any temptation to tap the bolt too hard
but rather gently encourage each bolt to pass through the bracket and the wing bush.
While the wing is being fitted the strut mount bush under the wing can be heated by the same
method so that it will be ready. Once both wing root bolts are in place the top of the strut can
be fitted to the strut mount and the wing is fitted.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings
The important thing at this stage is to relieve the weight of the
wing while the flock cools and sets in the correctly aligned
position, and this is done by lifting the outboard end of the
wing up about 35mm from the resting position and supporting
it overnight.
We use a simple wooden support for this (pictured at right)
but an even simpler T shape of 2x4 timber cut to length
would be fine. Leave the wing undisturbed overnight and the
next day the support can be removed and the other wing fitted
in exactly the same way.
Once both wings and the flaps and strut fairings have all been
satisfactorily test fitted the wings can be removed and set
aside for painting.

Test fit the flaps

We use 2 people in the factory to carry out this step and we recommend that you do the same,
as the flap is too long for one person to handle comfortably and safely.
Flap fitting
Each flap post bolt hole has a short length of Bundy tube spacer fitted inside (tip: a smear of
grease will hold the spacer in place while fitting) and each post fits into each flap hanger and
is held in place with an AN3 bolt.
Size the inboard end of the flap
The inboard end of each flap is manufactured slightly over length to allow for variations in
flap hanger placement and it will now require trimming to allow it to clear the fuselage at full
deflection.
Ideally the flap should clear the fuselage by a small amount, nominally 5mm, when at full
deflection. Full deflection in this case is defined as being 40 from the fully retracted position.
The first step is to hold the flap in place and check for overall length with the flap in the fully
retracted position, then manually lower the flap by hand in stages until the end of the flap
touches the side of the fuselage. Take care that you do not scratch the rear window.
Working in small stages, mark and trim the end of the flap until the flap can be lowered to the
full deflection position without touching the fuselage. In the factory we find that the use of a
marker pen held flat against the fuselage to mark the underside of the flap at each stage can be
quite useful. A jigsaw is used the trim the flap.
Remember that the top of the flap will not be trimmed quite as much as the bottom of the flap
due to the shape of the fuselage at this location.
Work slowly and in stages until the flaps clear the fuselage by 5mm at full deflection.
When you are satisfied that the inboard end of each flap is correctly cut and shaped, use a
long sanding block to smooth off the cut surfaces.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings
Fit the strut to wing fairing
While the wing and strut are fitted the strut to wing fairing can be fitted and the back half of
the fairing can be flocked into place on the wing.
Assemble each fairing on the bench fit the
front section over the joggle on the back
section and fit the 2 halves together with 4 x
6G stainless steel self-tapping screws on the
outside and 1 screw on the inside and then
take them apart again. Refer to the photo at
right for the outside screw placement.

Front

Back

Now reassemble each fairing around the strut

Strut to wing fairing, final fitted and painted
and locate the fairing on the wing: carefully
centre the assembled fairing on the strut so that there is an even gap all around the strut and
make sure that the fairing is lined up fore and aft.
Mark around the back half of the fairing and tape it into place, then drill 6 evenly spaced holes
through the mounting lip of the fairing and through the surface of the wing. Do not drill any
deeper than 5mm or you risk hitting the fuel tank! Fix the back half in place with a few 6G
stainless steel self-tapping screws, then remove the screws and lower the fairing.
Repeat the process on the other wing.
Prepare the surfaces to be bonded: sand both surfaces and ensure that they are clean.
Mix up a small batch of flock and flock the back half of each fairing to the wing, holding it in
place with 6G stainless steel self-tapping screws. Leave overnight for the flock to cure, then
next day remove the screws use a soldering iron if necessary to loosen the screws in the
flock.
The join between the fairing and the wing will be filled and finished in the Painting task.

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Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings
Pre-fit the strut/main gear to fuselage fairing
The strut/main gear fairing comes in 2 sections (left and right) and it covers the strut to
fuselage join, the main gear to fuselage join and also fairs the main gear mounting recess.

Right hand side strut/main gear fairing from below (top photo) and side on (above)

Fit the right hand section first: fit the fairing into place and hold it there temporarily with
some cloth tape, then fit the left hand section of the fairing and tape it into
place also and check all round each half of the fairing and adjust as required
for the best fit. When the fit is correct all round drill 5/32 holes around each
fairing and the fuselage in the pattern shown in the photos above.
Remove the fairings and enlarge each fuselage hole to 13/64 and tap each
hole to a 1/4 UNC thread. Each hole will have a threaded insert (shown
circled at right) recessed, screwed and super-glued into it, using the screw and
spacer (also pictured) to drive the insert home in exactly the same manner as
the Ventral Fin in the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit ventral fin and trim horn task.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings task.

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Paint>General

Paint>General
Objectives of this task:
To paint the aircraft, which involves disassembling the fuselage, empennage and wings, then
the preparation filling, sanding, priming and so forth, and finally application of the topcoat.
Body filler adds weight to your aircraft and Q-Cell is the lightest filler available so we suggest
that you use Q-Cell for the larger fills and finish off with a lightweight body filler.
Paint also adds weight to your aircraft and so we recommend that you keep the amount of
paint to the minimum necessary to achieve a good finish: just enough of a light-coloured
undercoat to cover filler and all of the bare spots, followed by a single topcoat.
The topcoat must be white for heat rejection purposes, and any coloured striping or detail can
only be applied to vertical surfaces all horizontal surfaces must be plain white.
Filler and paint:
In general we use automotive grade paint preparation products and automotive grade 2-pack
epoxy paint. The specific brands that we use here in Australia may not be available where you
live and you may have to find similar products locally.

Lightweight body filler

2 tins

K&H Mercury brand or similar (photo #1)

Spot putty

4 tubes

Ever-Glaze brand or similar (photo #2)

2 pack epoxy primer undercoat

5 litres

Protec Autofleet brand or similar (photo #3)

2 pack polythane white topcoat 12 litres Protec Barrier brand or similar (photo #4)
Q-Cell and polyester resin lightweight body filler a 3-part mix consisting of:
Q-Cell microspheres

1 kg

mix with resin as required, about 20% by weight

Polyester resin

4 litres

40% M.E.K.P. solution

20ml

catalyst for the polyester resin/Q-Cell mixture

Etching primer

250ml

for priming metal parts: noseleg, etc

Wax and grease remover

1 litre

for final washdown prior to topcoat

Thinners, retardant, etc as required to suit the chosen products and conditions
Tack cloth available from automotive paint suppliers, removes fine dust prior to the
application of the topcoat.

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Paint>General
Sandpaper:
Generally we recommend and use 3M brand (or 150mm Stickit brand pads for a random
orbital sander) aluminium oxide sandpaper in the following grades and quantities:

First all over sand

180-grit

1 box

Filler sand

80 and 120-grit

1 box of each

Spot putty and final sand

240-grit

2 boxes

Equipment required:
Cork or rubber sanding blocks, flat and curved.
150mm random orbital sander, either electric or pneumatic, preferably with dust extraction.
Compressor and spray gun we use a low-pressure pot gun (~80psi) in the factory, but follow
the instructions of your chosen paint supplier.
Half-face respirator with suitable painting filters.
Disposable coveralls, gloves, boots and safety glasses or goggles.
Assorted saw stools, wire hooks and trestles will be required to support individual parts while
they are being prepared and painted. In the paint booths at our factory we hang smaller parts
in rows from roof-mounted rails, while wings are fitted to purpose-built supports that hold the
wing root and support the outer end with a hook through the flap brackets.
Disassembly
Preparation and painting is done with the aircraft completely disassembled - all parts will be
prepared and painted separately and then reassembled after the paint has cured.
We suggest that you bag all the hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, clips, etc) for each component
separately and clearly label what each bag is for this will make your life so much easier
during reassembly.
Remove the ailerons and flaps from the wings, then remove the wings and wing struts.
Remove the elevator, rudder and ventral fin from the empennage.
Remove the wheel spats and any other fairings.
Remove the doors and the engine cowlings.
Remove the noseleg assembly and place a saw stool or prop under the attach point, or
alternately leave the noseleg in place and mask around it.
Remove any other small items such as ventilation doors, oil door and so on.
Clean everything thoroughly
The entire aircraft should be disassembled (see above) and then everything should be blown
out thoroughly with compressed air and then vacuumed out to remove dust and debris from
every part of the airframe. You do not want dust being blown into the finish because it didnt
get cleaned out properly beforehand.
While you are cleaning, take the time to clean out your work area too blow and sweep all
dust and rubbish from the walls, benches and floor and get into the habit of doing this at the
end of every work day so that when you come to apply the paint the work area will be
substantially clean to start with and you wont get any little surprises in the finish.
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Paint>Masking

Paint>Masking
General: we recommend and use regular automotive masking tape and brown masking paper.
We do not recommend the use of newspaper for masking due to its porous/absorbent nature.
We recommend and use Fine Line brand edging tape (photo below left) to define the edges
of windscreen and windows then follow up with normal 1 wide tape and brown paper to fill.

The windscreen, door and side windows will all need to be masked very carefully, paying
particular attention to the shape of the masked area, which should closely match the shape of
the underlying glass fibre structure. Use the Fine Line tape and mask slightly (~5mm)
inside of the structure line and then use a folded piece of 240-grit paper and sand right up to
the tape to provide a good key for the paint to adhere to. Take your time with this you will
see the shape of your windscreen and windows every time that you fly so make them even and
pleasing to the eye. The photo above right shows a side window fully masked note the blue
Fine Line tape defining the edge and the regular masking tape and paper infill.
Do not rush the masking stage, but rather take your time and do it carefully: care at this stage
will save you a lot of time and grief later overspray is not easy to remove, particularly with
2-pack paint, so mask up very carefully. Overspray will sneak though the smallest gaps.
Mask all control surface hinges on both the control surface and on the adjoining structure.
Mask the VHF antenna and static tube.
Mask inside the door openings so that the
door opening will be painted but overspray
will not get inside the cabin and foul the
inside of the windows.
Mask the engine and engine bay back to the
outside edge of the firewall wrap the entire
engine and engine mounts in masking paper
and seal off at the firewall.
Mask the main wheels and brakes.
Mask the suspension rubbers on the noseleg.

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Masked and undercoated J170 fuselage

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Paint>Surface preparation

Paint>Surface preparation
It is true that any paint job is only as good as the preparation shiny paint will most definitely
not hide anything, and in fact shiny paint will only magnify any lack of preparation so surface
preparation will be the most time-consuming (and ultimately rewarding) part of the painting
process. If you want a slick-looking finish this is how to get it: prepare carefully!
The surface preparation process is: sand everything with 180 grit paper; fill where required
(Q-Cell for larger areas and lightweight body filler for smaller areas, nicks etc); sand the filler
smooth with 80 and then 120 grit paper; apply undercoat; fill pinholes and small nicks with
spot putty; sand spot putty with 240 grit paper; touch up with undercoat; final sand with 240
grit paper; wash with wax and grease remover, dry off and wipe over with a tack cloth.
Wear your half face respirator all the time during the sanding and painting process there will
be a lot of fine dust generated and your lungs will thank you for it.
Lets get started!
Sand the entire surface of the aircraft and all parts to be painted with 180-grit sandpaper we
use a random orbital sander for this task and for most of the sanding in the factory. This will
provide a key for filler and undercoat to bond to. Be careful not to sand through the gelcoat
and into the structural glass fibre if you do go through the gelcoat do not sand any deeper.
Filler is used to fill imperfections in the surface to be painted, so you will use filler for things
such as filling in ripples or dents. When filling large areas we have found that the use of a
very wide (~9) spatula (make your own from plastic) provides a good finish with little waste.
Mix up a large batch of Q-Cell and polyester resin to a creamy consistency and keep it in a
sealed tin: this mix will last about 5 days. Stir the Q-Cell mix thoroughly before each use and
then scoop out one hand-sized amount at a time onto a flat mixing board, add 3% of M.E.K.P.
catalyst/hardener and mix it in thoroughly - this will give you about 15 minutes working time
- and apply with a wide spatula. Allow to cure for a few hours until it cannot be scratched
with your fingernail and then sand back to a smooth finish with 80 and 120 grit paper.
Smaller areas can be filled with lightweight body filler and sanded back in the same manner.
You might find it easier to work on one area at a time when applying filler so that you dont
loose track of where you are. If you decide that this way or working appeals to you, you might
want to consider working on a specific area until you are happy with the finish and then
undercoating that area before moving on to the next area. Working in this manner means that
you are less likely to miss anything and the undercoat allows you to see where you have been.
Metal surfaces such as the noseleg must be cleaned and primed with an etching primer.
Now spot putty can be used to fill smaller imperfections such as pinholes and the like. Spot
putty is applied with a spatula, left to dry and sanded back with 240-grit paper. Work your
way around all surfaces in this manner and then apply undercoat to all spot puttied areas.
By now many days will have passed and all surfaces should be smooth and undercoated.
All surfaces can now be hand-sanded with 240-grit paper as the final stage in surface
preparation, then all dust can be blown away and everything can be wiped down with a clean
cotton cloth. Wash everything with warm water and detergent and then with automotive wax
and grease remover and then allow all surfaces to dry off completely.
At this point the entire work area must be thoroughly cleaned and the floor and walls washed
with water to wash away and damp down any dust.

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Paint>Topcoat

Paint>Topcoat
This is what you have been working towards the application of the topcoat.
This is a critical task where you only get one chance to get it right. If you are unsure of your
ability to apply the topcoat then you may want to hire a professional painter perhaps the
local car painter would do the final coat for you on an hourly rate, or maybe you have a friend
who is good at such things. You could even find someone who can teach you how to paint;
perhaps there is an adult education facility near you who could help.
The work area should have all dust and debris removed and then be thoroughly wetted down
to minimise the chance of dust settling into the final finish. Hose the floor and sweep it out.
All parts should be supported or suspended in such a way that you can paint them and leave
them to dry (it might be necessary to paint the fuselage separately from the smaller parts if
you are working in cramped conditions).
Ensure that you have plenty of ventilation while painting and that any air being directed over
the work surface is clean air in our paint booths we use automotive grade air filtration across
the inlets to each booth with large extractor fans that vent above the booth, however you
should be able to achieve a reasonable level of filtration by drawing air from openings that are
above ground level and screening them with clean insect screens with muslin or similar open
weave cloth placed over them. If using the prevailing breeze you may have to wait for a day
when the wind is blowing in the right direction before painting, or perhaps you could use an
industrial fan as an extractor fan to draw clean air over the work surface.
It bears repeating here that the topcoat must be white under no circumstances must any
other colour be used, and any coloured trim can only be applied to vertical surfaces: never use
any colour other than white on the horizontal surfaces.
Finally all surfaces should be wiped over carefully with a new tack cloth.
It is not possible to give written instructions regarding painting technique and so all that can
be written has to be this: read the directions from your chosen paint supplier very carefully
and follow them to the letter. Expect to use about 4 litres for the fuselage, 4 litres on the wings
and 3 litres on the remaining parts.
Mix your paint and hardener together thoroughly and in the exact ratio given in the paint
manufacturers instructions, clean and lay out your air hoses so that you will not trip over them
and make sure that you wear your coveralls and respirator at all times while painting.
Take your time, apply the paint in an even pattern and good luck!
Once you have finished painting leave the area and keep the ventilation system running for a
few hours. Leave the paint to cure undisturbed read the manufacturers directions for
guidance on how long to wait and resist the temptation to rest anything on the newly painted
surface for at least a few days as it might make a mark in the still curing paint.
Peel the Fine Line tape back very carefully from around the windscreen and windows,
taking care to peel back along the masked line, which will give you a nice clean edge.
Unmask the engine and the door openings, refit the noseleg and nose wheel and remove all
other masking. In general peel masking back away from the painted surface.
Reassembly will be addressed in the next major section of this manual: Post-Paint.
This completes the Painting task.
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Post-Paint>General

Post-Paint>General
Objectives of this section:
This is the beginning of the Post-Paint section of the Constructors Manual.
At this point you should have a shiny white painted fuselage and a large number of painted
aircraft parts along with boxes of upholstery, wiring and instrumentation in your workshop.
The task at hand now is to assemble all of these parts into a complete and flyable aircraft, and
the sequence of assembly can make this process either enjoyable or painful depending on how
you choose to proceed.
The suggested sequence that follows is exactly the same as we use in our factory and in
general it involves leaving the wings off until the very last, which will save you a lot of
ducking and bumps on the head. The wings have been pre-fitted at the end of Pre-Paint so
you know that they will fit correctly, but we suggest that you forego the final fitting until last.
That beautiful shiny white paint should be left for at least 5 days to cure before starting on
reassembly fresh 2-pack paint is surprisingly vulnerable to marking until it is fully cured
and such marks can be difficult to touch up, so it is far better to let all the painted surfaces sit
and cure fully before starting work. Patience will be rewarded in this case.
During this paint curing time we suggest that you start by fitting the panel mounted throttle to
the instrument panel housing and assembling and wiring up the instrument panel, all of which
is done out of the aircraft on the workbench.
The assembly sequence then is to fit all of the upholstery apart from the seat covers: firewall,
console, floor/sides/roof, etc, electrical wiring can then be fitted and terminated, then install
all of the controls and the static and pitot systems, brake system and fuel system (all of which
have all been pre-fitted during Pre-Paint).
The instrument panel housing is now fitted, engine control cabling is connected, the
instrument panel is fitted to the housing and the seat covers are fitted.
Moving back to the empennage, the elevator and rudder are fitted and the trim system is
installed, although the ventral fin will be left off until final adjustments are made.
Finally the doors and door seals can be fitted and the interior is complete.
Now we can move to complete the engine bay and fit the propeller and spinner and fit the
cowlings. The front and main wheel spats are also fitted at this time.
Now that the fuselage is complete the wings can be assembled (aileron cables, ailerons and
flaps) and fitted to the fuselage and the fairings are fitted. This completes Construction.
Now you are into Testing: rigging checks can be performed and final adjustments can be
made as required. The ventral fin can now be fitted.
A weight and balance check can be conducted, then the fuel tank levels can be calibrated and
then interior placards and decals can be affixed.
Registration markings and stripes are fitted at this time along with all fairings.
A thorough pre-flight checklist must now be completed and the aircraft can be prepared for a
test flight.
Each of the foregoing tasks will now be described in detail.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit panel mounted throttle

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit panel mounted throttle

Objectives of this task:
To fit the panel mounted throttle linkage to the instrument panel housing.
Materials required:
Resin and flock
Card # J4 Panel Mount Throttle

Bearing blocks

Input levers

Output lever

Cross shaft

Rear view of the panel showing the bearing blocks in place and the cross shaft ready for assembly.

Fit the cross shaft bearing blocks

The throttle cross shaft is used to determine the side-to-side position for the bottom half of
each bearing block, so the first task is to assemble the cross shaft as shown above.
Output lever
Rod end

Input lever

50mm

Now, working from the rear of the panel, make a

mark 50mm in from the bottom of the rear lip on
each side (as shown at left) and position the bottom
half of each bearing block behind each mark. Sit the
assembled cross shaft in each bearing block and
move the bottom half of each bearing block out
until the cross shaft has no side-to-side movement.
Make sure that the cross shaft is evenly spaced in
from each side of the panel, then mark the position
of each bearing block and flock each block in place,
using the cross shaft to keep the blocks in
alignment. Leave overnight to cure.

Next day run a 3/16 drill through each hole in the bearing block and drill
through the panel housing, then grease the throttle cross shaft, put each bearing
block cap in place and fix it to the panel housing with 3/16 screws, bearing
plates (shown at right), washers and Nyloc nuts and tighten the nuts to safety.
Too much tension will make the throttle stiff to move, so test the amount of
friction as you tighten the nuts.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit panel mounted throttle
Fit the rod ends to the inside of the input levers with AN3-8A bolts fitted through the input
levers, then an AN960-416 (3/16) flat washer, then the rod end followed by an AN960-515
(1/4) flat washer and a Nyloc nut as shown in the photo on the previous page.
Fit the input shaft pivot blocks
In this step we will fit the input shaft pivot blocks to the sides of the panel housing.
With the cross shaft secured in place, put the panel housing on
its back so that the panel opening faces upwards. Screw the
throttle input shafts onto the rod ends on the input levers with
a drop of Loctite 242 on the threads and tighten firmly.
Temporarily fit the instrument panel to the panel housing with
cloth tape, making sure that the throttle input shafts go
through the correct holes in the instrument panel. Centre each
throttle input shaft in its hole in the panel by using a small
length of rubber hose as shown arrowed at right.
80mm

Pivot block
mount spacer
Pivot
block

3/16 hole
30mm

hole
12mm

Front of
panel

Outside right-hand side of panel housing

Front of
panel
Inside right-hand side of panel housing

Mark a line on each side of the panel housing along the centreline of each throttle shaft.
Remove the instrument panel and set aside. Mark and drill the 3/16 and 1/2 holes as shown
in the photo at above left.
Mix a small batch of flock and apply to the base of the pivot block mount spacer and then bolt
the pivot block mount spacers to each side of the housing with an AN3 bolt through the 3/16
hole as shown in the photos above.
Drill 3 x 3/16 holes evenly spaced around the flange of the pivot block mount spacer and fit
in place with TLR pop rivets as shown in the photos above. Leave overnight to cure.
Cut a length of Bundy tube to fit through the bolt hole in the pivot blocks.
Next day slip a throttle stop ring and a pivot block over each throttle input shaft and bolt
through the pivot block and Bundy tube and the pivot block mount spacer with an AN3-17A
bolt with a penny washer under the Nyloc nut tighten the nuts to safety.
The 1/2 hole will be used later for throttle idle stop adjustment.

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Fit the instrument panel retaining nuts
At this point tape the instrument panel back in place and
drill through the instrument panel mounting holes in the
panel with a 5/32 drill.
Remove the panel and fit captive nuts behind each hole
use the captive nut as a jig (a complete captive nut
assembly is shown below right) as a jig (shown at right)
to drill the rivet holes thread the screw part-way
through the captive nut from the back and fit the exposed
end of the thread into the hole, then drill the 2 x 3/32
rivet holes for the countersunk rivets.
Countersink the rivet holes just enough to make a
countersunk 3/32 rivet sit flush and rivet the captive
nuts in place and then enlarge the 5/32 holes in the
panel to 3/16 to provide clearance for the screw threads.

Now the excess lip in the panel housing can be trimmed away around the captive nuts mark
a line and trim generally as shown in the photo above.
Leave enough of a lip for the panel to sit against, about 10mm, and mark around the captive
nuts. Leave the solid section across the bottom of the panel this will support the Carb Heat,
Choke and Cabin Heat knobs later.
There may need to be some fine adjustment of the trimmed edge once the instrument panel
has been assembled in the next task, after which the panel housing can be covered with your
selected upholstery fabric.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit panel mounted throttle task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel

Objectives of this task:
To fit all instruments into the instrument panel, fit all of the electrical wiring and terminate to
multi-pin connectors ready for installation into the instrument panel housing.
There are 5 panel options as well as builder variations and so this task will address the fitting
of hardware and both analogue and digital instrumentation in general terms and will use
photos of Standard (analogue) and Jumbo (digital) panels to illustrate various aspects of the
task. Refer also to the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Electrical wiring diagrams task.
Fitting of the hardware and instrumentation to the panel is not particularly difficult but the
actual wiring is a task that requires considerable care and attention to detail.
A kit builder can do the wiring provided that he or she is careful and methodical. If you are
not experienced at electrical wiring and the reading of electrical wining diagrams then you
may wish to consider having the wiring of the panel done by a specialist technician, or
possibly a friend or acquaintance may have the necessary skills.
Materials and tools required:
Card #14 Option 1 & 2 Hardware or Option 3 & 4 Hardware or Option 5 Hardware
Card #16 Electric Flaps specifically the flap actuating switch and flap switch handle
Wire stripping and crimping tools
Prepare the work area
You will need a clean well lit workbench and a piece of foam about the same size as the panel
so that the panel can be placed face down without any risk of scratches to the front face of the
panel or the faces of the instruments.
All electrical connectors should be close at hand and your heat gun will be needed to shrink
the coloured tags onto the wiring. All tools should be within easy reach.
There will be a lot of packing waste so empty your rubbish bin before starting.
Unpack the hardware and fittings
Strip all of the hardware and fittings from the Cards use a knife to cut around each item and
then peel the plastic shrink-wrap back and away from the item. Be very careful when cutting
the noise suppression filter out of the wrap: do not cut near or through the wires.
Sort all of the items into groups: switches, circuit breakers, wiring, lights, etc.
Empty the bag of electrical connectors onto your bench top and sort the items into groups:
note that the red female spade connectors are for single wires and the blue ones are for 2
wires. Do the same with the screws and fittings bag: select the black screws (2 lengths) and
nuts, the silver screws and Nyloc nuts (M3 and M4) and the gold anodised captive nuts. The
remaining items should be put aside for later use when installing the panel into the aircraft.
The M3 silver screws and Nyloc nuts will be used for busbar to circuit breaker connections,
the M4 silver screws and Nyloc nuts will be used to fix hardware to the panel, while the black
screws will be used to mount instruments to the panel. The gold anodized captive nuts will be
clipped into the analogue instruments as each instrument is being fitted.
On factory built aircraft we sandblast and paint the heads of the M4 silver screws satin black
so that they blend into the panel. You may wish to do the same before assembling your panel.
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Fit the hardware to the panel
The panel assembly sequence is: prepare and fit the circuit breakers, then the switches and
panel lights, then the instruments, radio(s), intercom and transponder.
The Standard panels have a single long earth busbar while Jumbo panels have 3 earth busbars,
1 for the circuit breakers, 1 for the panel lights and 1 for general use.
Circuit breakers end of the earth busbar

Prepare the circuit breakers and switches earth busbar by filing a 6mm notch on each side of
each circuit breaker hole in order to clear the circuit breaker attachment clips as shown above.

Rear view of the panel

Prepare the panel for the circuit breakers by very carefully filing a 6mm wide 45 recess on
the back of the panel at each side of each circuit breaker hole as shown above this allows
the circuit breaker attachment clips to seat firmly into the holes. Work carefully and take care
not to mark the front of the panel. File the recess on all circuit breaker holes, even spares.
Prepare the 5 and 10 amp circuit breakers only by carefully drilling out the hole in each
bottom spade connector to 3.3mm. This allows the main busbar to be bolted to the connectors.
Support the connectors while drilling by placing a piece of plywood between them.

Fit the circuit breakers to the panel from the front check the etched labels on the panel and
the circuit diagram and fit the correct value circuit breaker to each hole. Press each circuit
breaker in until the attachment clips click into place. Standard panel shown above.

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Lay the panel face down on a soft surface and fit the earth busbar over the back of the circuit
breakers. Fit the switches though the earth busbar and though the panel. Each switch has 2
retaining nuts: one nut will remain behind the panel and be used to tighten the switch in place
and the other nut will be fitted to the front of the switch on the panel face.
Each 2-way switch is labelled on one side with the direction of the OFF and ON positions.
All 2-way switches follow the convention of UP = ON and DOWN = OFF which means that
for most switches the machined groove in the threaded barrel of the switches will face
downwards. The Magneto switches will be the opposite, where the DOWN position will
connect the magneto to earth while the UP position will remove the earth and make the
magnetos live. Accordingly the magneto switches will have the groove facing upwards.
The 3-way flap switch should be fitted with the groove facing downwards.
Place all the switches into the panel and tighten the front nuts finger tight, then check that
each nut is flush with the end of the threaded barrel. Adjust the rear nuts to suit.

Lay a metal ruler along the bottom flats of the front retaining nuts as shown above and gently
adjust each nut until all the flats are in line, then use a spanner to tighten the rear nuts firmly.
Recheck each switch for alignment and make any final adjustments that may be needed.

Drill through the 2 mounting holes in the earth busbar between the circuit breakers and bolt
the busbar to the panel with 2 M4 screws and Nyloc nuts (shown circled above). Dont tighten
the nut closest to the centre of the panel just yet (shown as the right hand nut above); the
master earth will fit under this later during the wiring process.
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Fit the LED lights through to the panel and busbar. The green light is the Master light; the rest
will be red lights. The connectors are labelled [+] and [-] align all the [+] connectors to face
in the same direction. Tighten the retaining nuts firmly. Fit the Electric Turn Coordinator
(ETC) OFF/ON switch near the instrument.
Fit the Starter button and the keyed Master switch if using one, tighten using pliers.
The earth busbar(s) have earthing tags that must now be bent up 90 - use a screwdriver and
pliers to bend each tag up, circled in photo below. These tags will be used as earth terminals.

Bolt the main busbar across the lower side of the bottom contacts on the 5 and 10 amp circuit
breakers only using the M3 silver screws and Nyloc nuts as shown above. Tighten firmly
only: these screws and nuts are very small so take care not to over-tighten them.
Note that the main busbar does not connect to the Master 15 amp circuit breaker.
Fit the black U shaped safety bracket between the Mag switches.
Now the Avionics busbar can be fitted.

Standard panel

Digital panel

For a Standard panel the avionics busbar is located behind the No Smoking label above the
engine instrumentation, see photo at left above hold the busbar against the front of the panel
and carefully mark and drill through the hole in each end of the busbar, first positioning the
busbar so that the screw holes will not obscure the labelling.
For a Jumbo panel the avionics busbar will be located vertically to the right of the analogue
instruments as shown in the photo above right.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel
There are 2 nylon standoffs in the hardware pack these must be used to isolate the avionics
busbar from the panel itself, as the panel will be earthed. It will be necessary to countersink
the screw holes at each end of the busbar to allow the screws to thread into the nylon standoff.
Mount the avionics busbar to the panel and tighten the mounting screws firmly.
Unpack the instruments and radios

Each instrument box will have a Jabiru stock number written on the top in marker pen. Take
each instrument out of its box, cut the tagged end of the box off and discard the box. Write the
Jabiru stock number on the tagged end and put it aside this information along with all other
instrument serial numbers will be entered on the Aircraft Identification form in this Manual.
Discard any O rings from around the instruments: these will not be required.
The Microair VHF radio and Transponder can be removed from their boxes at this time. Each
unit is wrapped in a silver electrostatic bag. Do not cut the bag open at the end, but rather cut
the bag open along the side of the bag and remove the unit. Cutting across the end of the
silver bag risks cutting into the face of the unit and must be avoided at all costs.
Unpack the Microair VHF radio/intercom and Transponder wiring harnesses.
If fitting a GPS unit you will need the appropriate mounting bracket and wiring harness.
If the GPS is a Garmin product the mounting
bracket must be removed from the end of the
clamp assembly and screwed to the Jabiru
panel mount bracket as shown at right.

180mm

To mount the Garmin 296/495 in a Standard

panel, refer to the photo at right for drilling
dimensions:
118mm

If the GPS is an AvMap unit the supplied

panel mount bracket will be used.
If the GPS is any other brand or model refer
to the manufacturers literature for mounting
instructions.

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50mm

122mm

55mm

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Fit analogue instrumentation
Analogue instrumentation (ASI, ALT, VSI, ETC, engine instruments) will require each
individual wire to be connected to the back of each instrument. There are 3 methods of fitting
analogue instruments: screws though the panel and into the instrument (flight
instrumentation), or retaining brackets or retaining screw rings (engine instrumentation).

The photo above shows the analogue instrumentation for a Standard panel. Note the Garmin
GPS bracket above the circuit breakers. The angle of the bracket faces the GPS unit towards
the pilot: in the photo above the bracket has been bent to face the GPS slightly upwards too.
When fitting the flight instruments the gold anodized captive nuts are first inserted into the
rear of the screw holes in the instrument and then held in place with a finger while the screw
is fitted from the front, through the panel and the instrument, and tightened.
There is not a lot of room around the instruments so the order of fitting is important.
Generally the approach is to start from the centre of the panel with the engine instruments:
CHT, Oil pressure and temperature and Voltmeter, and then move to the Tacho and then the
VSI and ETC.

At this time the 2 points at the bottom of the panel should be placed on a known level surface
and the balance ball (circled above) should be checked to see if it is in the centre.
If it is not, remove the instrument and enlarge the mounting holes slightly (to about 3/16)
then refit the instrument and rotate it until the balance ball sits correctly when the panel is
held level then tighten the screws.
Now the Altimeter and ASI can be fitted along with the wing tank fuel level digital gauges.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel
Fit digital instrumentation
Digital instrumentation (EFIS, EMS, radio(s), transponder, intercom, GPS) will usually have
a pre-wired harness and a multi-pin connector fitting at the rear of the instrument.
The Dynon brand EFIS displays are supplied with mounting hardware and the fitting method
is to fit the instrument through the panel and lay the panel face down, then place the mounting
bracket over the instrument and carefully mark the position of the mounting holes on the
panel with a sharp drill. Remove the instrument, drill the holes through and fix the mounting
bracket into place with M4 screws and Nyloc nuts and then fit the instrument into the mount.

D100 EFIS

Mounting
brackets

D10 EMS

The photo above shows a Dynon D100 EFIS (top) and a D10 EMS (bottom) fitted to a Jumbo
panel. Note the mounting brackets (arrowed) that attach each instrument to the panel.
Finishing
For both the Standard and Jumbo panels you can now fit the intercom unit and faceplate or
sticker, the VHF radio(s) and the transponder to the panel. Each unit is retained by screws that
are supplied with the unit.
Any blank spaces remaining in the panel can be covered with the supplied plate(s) or plugs.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel
Wiring standards
Before you start wiring the panel we suggest that you follow a few wiring standards:

All wires and connectors will be identified by a colour coded heat-shrink tag or label,

Wiring insulation will be stripped back 4mm for all connectors,

All wires will be crimped into the appropriate connectors using a crimping tool,

No more than 2 wires will be crimped into any one connector.

Heat shrink tubing should be cut into short lengths (about 2 or 3mm) and used for tagging
each electrical connector or wire in the following manner:

Red

Black = negative (earth)

White = signal

= positive

Cut about 20 of each colour to start with and cut more as needed.
Put a strip of masking tape along the bottom rear of the panel under the switches and circuit
breakers and label each one this will save you having to keep lifting the panel to read the
labels on the front and that will make the wiring a little bit easier.
Wiring the panel
This is a one-wire-at-a-time process that cannot be rushed.
The objective is to use lengths of wire that can later be zip-tied together to form a tidy wiring
loom. The before and after photos below show how factory wiring is arranged into a loom:

From this:
(We use precut wire
lengths for
our standard
panel layouts)

To this:

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The process is to put one wire on at a time, so
if you were to start with the wire from the
Avionics circuit breaker to the Avionics
switch you would strip 4mm of insulation off
one end of the wire and crimp a red female
spade connector to it then heat shrink a red
tag to the connector. Push that connector onto
the circuit breaker terminal and measure out
enough wire to reach the Avionics switch
while allowing a bit of height above the panel
as shown in the photo at right. Cut the wire,
strip 4mm of insulation off, slip another red
tag on and crimp another red female spade connector in place and heat shrink the tag on.
With that wire fitted in place you can then square off the wire by bending it and then fit the
next wire so that it would end up being the same height above the panel and then keep adding
one wire at a time until the panel is fully wired, then you can use zip ties to tidy up the wiring
into a loom as shown in the bottom photo on the previous page.
Note that there are 2 main wire sizes: 16 gauge, which is used for most of the wiring; and 10
gauge, which is used for the main battery wiring, all shown on the electrical wiring diagrams.
Some wires will be common, such as the power supply to the engine instruments. In these
cases the suggested approach is to loop from instrument to instrument by crimping 2 wires
into each blue connector. Do not crimp more than 2 wires into a single connector or you run
the risk of having some of the wires pull out of the connector, so stay with 2 wires maximum.
Quite a lot of wires will go to other parts of the aircraft, and these wires are terminated into
one of five multi-pin connectors for ease of installation and maintenance. If one end of a wire
will go to a multi-pin plug then you must label that end clearly (use masking tape for the
label) before going to the next wire. If you do not label it you risk having a real problem later.
Multi-pin connectors are supplied in 2, 4, 6 and 8 pin types depending on the instrumentation
options that you have ordered with your kit. In all cases the pins are standard male and female
spade connectors, just the same as the normal wiring connectors except without the insulation,
and each connector will be crimped on to the wire in the same manner. The connectors will
then be pushed into the respective half of a connector body until they click into place.
With the male spade connectors (that fit into
the female connector body) care must be taken
that the stripped end of the wire does not
extend beyond the end of the crimp area of the
connector, otherwise the connector will not be
able to clip into place in the connector body.
The photo at right shows the wrong way and
the right way to crimp a wire into a male spade
connector. Note that in the Wrong example
the bare wire has been pushed too far into the
crimp area of the connector, as indicated by
the red arrow, while in the Right example
the wire stops at the end of the crimp area of
the connector, as indicated by the green arrow.

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Wrong

Right

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel
Fitting the multi-pin connectors
What follows is the pin layout that is used in our factories. Some pins may not be used on
your particular panel in which case simply leave that pin unwired, and the connector layout
here will be referred to again in the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring task.
Each connector is assigned a group of wires that go to a similar physical location.
The connector pairs should be marked from A, B, C, D or E as shown on the next page, and a
mark should be made on the corner beside pin #1 for each connector. If you have more than 1
QK6 connector you should plan to fit 1 male and 1 female QK6 connector to the panel to
lessen the possibility of plugging the wrong pair of QK6s together.
The diagram below shows the pin numbering convention for each of the 4 connector types:

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel
Group the wires for each plug together and trim each group to an even length, then strip 4mm
from the insulation of each wire and fit the appropriate connector type to each wire: male
spade connectors for a female connector body and female spade connectors for a male
connector body. References to male or female will mean the connector body.
Hold the connector body in the correct orientation and insert each spade connector from the
rear of the connector body: push into place until a solid click is felt this indicates that the
spade connector is correctly seated in the connector body.
If a spade connector is not seated correctly it may be forced back and out of the connector
body when the 2 halves are joined, so double check that each spade connector is fully seated.
The connector pin assignment shown below will be referred to again when the other side of
each connector is fitted in the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring task:
Connector A: Engine instrumentation, QK8 connector, 16 gauge wire
1 CHT positive

5 CHT negative

2 Tacho positive

6 Tacho negative

3 Left MAG

7 Right MAG

4 Oil temperature

8 Oil pressure

Connector B: Electrical, QK6, 16 gauge wire

1 Starter

4 Regulator to main busbar

2 Starter pilot light

5 EFIS negative

3 Charge pilot light

6 Fuel pressure

Connector C: Main power, QL2 connector, 10 gauge wire

Note the use of the heavier 10 gauge wire to this connector.
1 Battery positive

2 Battery negative (earth)

Connector D: Wings 1, QK6 (or QK4 if no landing light) connector, 16 gauge wire
1 Fuel pump positive

4 Fuel pump negative (earth)

2 Flaps UP

5 Flaps DOWN

3 Landing light positive

6 Landing light negative

Connector E: Wings 2, QK6 connector, 16 gauge wire

1 Strobe positive

4 Strobe negative

2 Right wing fuel gauge positive

5 Right wing fuel gauge negative

3 Left wing fuel gauge positive

6 Left wing fuel gauge negative

You will have used one half of each connector by now. Because you will not be using the
other halves until the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring task, store the remaining
connector parts in the plastic boxes that they came in until you need them. This simple action
will make your life much easier when wiring the rest of the aircraft so do it now: put all the
boxes into a plastic bag, label it clearly and put it aside where you can easily find it later.
Fit the noise suppression filter into the power wire from the Avionics busbar to the VHF radio
(use male and female spade connectors) and zip tie the filter to the loom.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel
Fit digital wiring harnesses
The digital wiring harnesses can now be fitted to the plugs at the rear of the digital
instruments and the VHF radio, transponder and intercom. Tighten the plug screws by hand.
There is an MP3 player input socket on the intercom harness and this may now be fitted to the
panel if desired. Select a location on the panel where the cable to the MP3 player will not
obscure any instruments and drill a 6mm hole through the panel and mount the socket.
Use zip ties to hold the digital harnesses to the wiring loom.
Tube up to the pressure instruments
Fit the nylon fittings to the rear of the pressure instruments decide first where the static
tubing will run and use elbows and tees to suit. Take care not to cross-thread the nylon
fittings. Run the static tubing as required and leave it about 200mm below the bottom of the
panel. Run the pitot tubing from the ASI and trim to the same length. Mark the pitot tubing
clearly so that it will not be mistaken for the static line.
Zip tie the pressure tubes lightly (do not crush them) to the wiring loom.

Standard

Jumbo

This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Assemble instrument panel task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Electrical wiring diagrams

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This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Electrical wiring diagrams task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 1

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 1
Objectives of this task:
To fit all of the stage 1 upholstery into the aircraft.
This task assumes that you will be using the Jabiru upholstery kit. If you are using the Jabiru
kit it contains extremely detailed instructions, however you may want to use your own
materials in which case this task can be used for more general guidance.
Materials required:
Jabiru upholstery kit or equivalent
High heat contact adhesive
Adhesive thinners and/or Acetone (for cleanup)
Dry fit
Start by cleaning your workshop floor and then lay out the contents of your upholstery kit and
work out what panel goes where. In general the unedged panels are fitted before the edged
panels, so the unedged panels will be for the larger areas: sidewalls and roof coverings and the
like, while the edged panels will be the finishing panels where the edges will be seen.
Take your time and test fit each panel it is much easier to do this now without adhesive!
Consider labelling the location of each panel with a sticky paper tag on the good side.
Adhesive
Each panel will be glued in place with contact adhesive the back of the panel and the
surface to which it will be attached are both coated and the adhesive is allowed to dry, then
when both surfaces are pushed together they are there to stay. Needless to say you want to be
really sure of your positioning before pushing the surfaces together.
In our factory we spray the adhesive onto the back of the fabric and use a brush to apply it to
the fibreglass but you can brush both surfaces. Do not apply too much adhesive if you do it
can bleed though the fabric. Just a thin coat is quite enough.
Sequence

1
1

1.

Console fit the tailored console cover, taking care to align the seams correctly. Fit
along the top first, then carefully roll the cover down the console and fit along the sides,
working on one side at a time, until the cover is fitted.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 1

6
1

2.

Firewall glue the 10mm foam layer to the firewall and then glue the fabric to the
foam. Cut around the ribs as required. Lower firewall fit the fabric down and back
along the floor slightly and also over the rudder pedal mounts.

3.

Windscreen pillars and firewall surrounds. These areas are covered by several small
pieces that each cover a rib or brace. Note: the fuel tank wiring should be fitted inside the
front pillars before covering them. Refer to the Install electrical wiring task.

4.

Front sidewalls cut out the vent openings after the panel has been fixed in place.

6
10
5
5
5

5.

Crossbeam (front and back) and middle sidewalls behind the front doors.

6.

Seat sides and base up to the bottom of the door sills.

7.

Seat backs cut around the aileron cable brackets (circled in yellow) before fixing the
panel in place.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 1

8a

8a
8b

8.

Front hood lining/roof: main panels (a) then the longitudinal rib (b)

9.

Rear hood lining/roof as for the front (not applicable to J160/J170)

10.

Rear sidewalls (not applicable to J160/J170)

11.

Door panels

12.

Door pockets attached with snap fasteners and Velcro

13.

Instrument panel housing

14.

Cable covers and all other small trim items.

Clean up any excess glue with adhesive thinners or Acetone. Do not get any adhesive thinners
or Acetone on vinyl or leather.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 1 task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring

Objectives of this task:
To install all of the electrical wiring in the aircraft and connect to the multi-pin plugs.
Each wire will need to be cut from the supplied coils of aircraft grade wire. The length
required will vary depending on how you choose to route the wire and so it is difficult to give
any exact lengths, but generally you should allow a little extra length to be on the safe side.
Study the photos in this task to see how we route our factory wiring before starting work.
Materials required:
Wiring Kit, as well as both the Electrical wiring diagrams and Assemble instrument panel
tasks for reference and for pin assignment for the multi pin connectors.
Preparation
Before heading out to the aircraft there are a couple of things that need to be prepared:
The 2 tachometer (tacho) sender unit wires will
need to be soldered to 2 x 700mm lengths of 16
gauge wire as shown at right.
Because soldering hardens the wire there is a
risk of the wire breaking just beyond the solder
joint, so the wires are joined by twisting the bare
ends of the tacho wire around the bare ends of
the 16g wire and soldering them together and
then doubling the thinner wires back and
covering each, and then both, wires with heat
shrink tubing, all as shown below.

This method provides a much safer joint that

allows the wire to flex without the danger of
breaking near the solder joint. Label each white
wire as being positive (red) or negative (black).
The CHT sender plug halves can now be
connected and then the connector halves can be
fixed together with 2 zip ties as shown at right.
Cut off the ends of the zip ties.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Engine wiring
All wires will need to be long enough to route from the respective sources, around the engine
in the manner shown, and either to a connection point on the firewall in some cases or through
the firewall plus about 300mm for connection to a multi-pin plug for the majority of cases.
All wires to multi-pin plugs must be labeled (use masking tape) to avoid later confusion.
Refer to the Electrical wiring diagrams task (found immediately before this task) to see where
each wire will be connected to and plan the lengths accordingly.
Careful consideration must be given to the routing of wires around the engine. All wiring in
the engine compartment must be kept well away from all hot and/or moving parts.
The supplied white wire is all aircraft grade and has high temperature insulation but care must
still be taken to route away from obvious heat sources such as the exhaust system.
Wire the oil temperature and pressure senders
These senders are located on the left front of the engine and the single wire from each unit is
routed back under the cylinders to the rear of the engine and zip tied to the pushrod tubes.
Strip 4mm of insulation from each wire and crimp a red
female spade connector and a black heat shrink tag to each.
You will need to cut the insulation from the oil temperature
connector as shown at right to allow it to fit over the button
pin on the oil temperature sender. Note the black heat shrink
tag this sender unit measures the resistance to earth.
Connect to the oil temperature sender unit, which is located
just above the drain plug on the sump. Crimp over the end of the connector when it has been
fitted to prevent it from slipping off the sender unit. Label each wire.
Fit the other connector to the oil pressure sender unit, which is located above the oil filter.
Note the black heat shrink tag this sender unit also measures the resistance to earth.

Route both wires back under the cylinders and zip tie them to the pushrod tubes you will
need to bend the zip ties into a U shape first in order to fit them around the pushrod tubes.
In the photos above you can see the 2 wires running back under the pushrod tubes and then up
behind the rear cylinder. You can also see the earth wire from the left magneto (with a black
tag again because it is used to earth the magneto to turn it off). These wires will all need to be
long enough to be routed around the rear of the engine and 300mm into the cabin.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Fit the tacho sender unit
For this step you will need to rotate the
engine, which may cause 1 or 2 of the sealing
plugs to pop off of the exhaust pipes and
possibly some preserving oil may drip out, so
place some rag under the engine until this
step is complete. You will require a lever to
turn the engine in our factory we use a tool
that fits onto the propeller flange.

Tacho timing
tag (on the
flywheel)

Rotate the engine until a tacho timing tag can

be seen under the tacho sender mount (the
threaded fitting at the left rear of the engine)
- refer to the photo at right for detail.
Remove one lock nut from the sender unit
and screw it into the fitting, then carefully
screw it down until it just touches the timing
tag. Unscrew the sender unit one full turn and
tighten the lock nut finger tight.

Tacho sender
mount
Front of
engine

Now rotate the engine one half of a turn until the other timing tag is under the sender unit and
screw the sender down until it just touches that tag, which should be one full turn. Back the
sender unit out one half of one turn and firmly but carefully tighten the locking nut.
Wire the magnetos
Feed a plain length of 16 gauge wire through the hole in the side of each magneto, strip 4mm
of insulation off and crimp a red female spade connector to the wire with a black heat shrink
tag. A black tag is used because the magneto wire is used to earth the magneto to turn it off.

Left magneto

Right magneto

Fit the CHT (Cylinder Head Temperature) plug and wiring

Zip tie the CHT connecting plug to the front of the left hand top engine mount with the high
temperature wire facing back. The sensor will be fitted to the left rear spark plug later in this
task. The main photo on the next page shows the CHT connecting plug fitted.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Engine wiring routing
Cut the zip ties that hold the alternator wires
to the engine and bend the wires to the right.
At this stage you will have wires at the top
left rear of the engine for oil pressure and
temperature, left magneto, CHT and tacho.
Group these wires and zip tie them as shown
at right, so you will have 3 white 16 gauge
wires (oil pressure, oil temperature, left
magneto) and 2 pairs of red and black wires
(CHT and tacho).
CHT plug

Tacho sender

Right
magneto
wire

Left
magneto
wire
Alternator wires

Now run the wires across the machined aluminum beam behind the flywheel as shown above.
Add the alternator wire pair into the group as shown, but before you do, twist the wire pair
several times so that the there are no lengths where the wire pair is straight the full length of
the alternator wires should be twisted. This will help to minimize inducing noise into the
wiring harness from the alternator.
From here the wiring bundle can be routed up to the top right engine mount and then back
along the mount tube to the firewall. Include the right magneto wire in the wiring bundle at
this point.
The 16 gauge wires for oil pressure, oil temperature, left and right magnetos, CHT and Tacho
can all be passed through the right hand cable collar in the firewall and 300mm left free inside
the cabin for later fitting to Connector A.
If you are using the optional fuel pressure sensor it can be connected at this time and the wires
included in the wiring bundle for later fitting to Connector B.
The 2 wires from the alternator can be routed along the firewall and down to the regulator
plug for connection in the next step.
Dont zip tie the wiring bundle to the engine mount just yet - there are some more wires to be
added to the bundle over the next few steps.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Wire the regulator connector
Power from the alternator will go to the regulator through the regulator connector, and power
from the regulator will go to the positive and negative sides of the battery as well as the power
to the main bus and to the optional low voltage warning light, also through the regulator
connector.
Crimp a male spade connector to each of 2 x 1m lengths of 16 gauge wire and plug them into
the female connectors from the alternator. Cover each connector with heat shrink tubing.
Route the wires into the wiring bundle that runs along the top right-hand engine mount,
around the firewall and down to the regulator connector.
Alternator 16g

- Battery 10g

Alternator 16g

Low voltage
light 16g

+ Main bus 16g

+ Battery 10g

Wire the male half of a QK6 connector as shown above note that the positive and negative
wires to the battery are both 10 gauge (heavier) wire, shown above as light blue, while the rest
are all 16 gauge (lighter) wire, shown above as purple.
The colour coding of the pins in the diagram above indicates the colour of the wires coming
from the regulator to the connector.
Route the 10 gauge positive wire from the red pin to the front post on the starter solenoid.
Route the 10 gauge negative wire from the black pin to the earth terminal on the firewall.
Route the 16 gauge wires from the yellow pin to the main bus and from the green pin to the
optional low voltage warning light - pass both wires through the right hand cable collar in the
firewall and leave 300mm free inside the cabin for later fitting to Connector B. Carefully label
each wire with masking tape.
Once you have allowed enough wire length to enable routing in a tidy manner, strip 4mm
from the end of each wire, carefully crimp a female spade connector to each wire, and then fit
each connector carefully into the connector housing.
Refer to the Engine bay wiring routing step later in this task for an example of how to route
the wires from the Regulator plug to the battery and the cable collar.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Wire the starter solenoid
From battery
positive: heavy
orange cable

To main bus
bar 15A circuit
breaker 10g

Front

From regulator
plug 10g

To starter
button 16g

To starter pilot
light 16g
To starter
motor: heavy
orange cable

Route the short heavy orange cable from the positive side of the battery to the front post of the
starter solenoid. Fit an 8mm yellow ring terminal and a red heat shrink tag to each of 2 lengths
of 10 gauge wire (shown above as light blue) and route one wire to the red pin in the regulator
plug and the other wire from the front post to the main bus 15A circuit breaker: pass the wire
through the right hand cable collar in the firewall and leave 300mm free inside the cabin for
fitting to Connector C.
Fit a red female spade connector and a red heat shrink tag to 2 x 1m lengths of 16 gauge wire
(shown above as purple) and route one wire from the left-hand middle connector on the
solenoid to the starter button and one wire from the right-hand middle connector to the starter
pilot light - pass both wires through the right hand cable collar in the firewall and leave
300mm free inside the cabin for fitting to Connector B.
The large and small spade terminals on the front post of the starter solenoid are not used.
Connect the starter motor
Earth the starter motor by fitting the long heavy orange cable under the top bolt that holds the
front of the starter motor housing in place this provides maximum current to the starter unit.
Loosen both starter bolts slightly and then remove the top bolt and fit the cable under it.
Apply a drop of Loctite and retighten both bolts firmly. Route both orange cables back along
the top right engine mount strut.
The positive cable (the one that goes inside the starter motor) can be fitted to the rear post of
the starter solenoid and the earth cable can be fitted to the negative side of the battery.
Wire the firewall earth tag
The following 3 x 10 gauge wires are fitted to yellow 6mm ring terminals with black heat
shrink tags and connected to the firewall earth tag with a single AN3-5A bolt and Nyloc nut:
1. The negative wire from the black pin in the regulator plug;
2. The negative wire to the earth bus - pass this wire through the right hand cable collar
in the firewall and leave 300mm free inside the cabin for later fitting to Connector C;
3. The negative wire to the negative post of the battery. Do not connect this wire to the
battery at this time.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Engine bay wiring routing
The engine wiring bundle can now be zip tied to the right top engine mount and then the
starter cables and the breather tube can be zip tied over top of those wires. Take some time to
route all of the wires neatly and zip tie any loose wires together. When all wires have been zip
tied you can trim off the excess ends of the zip ties.
Solenoid
Earth tag

Cable
collar

Fuel
pressure
(optional)
Regulator
connector

Regulator

In the photos above you can see the general arrangement of the engine bay wiring.
Wire the strobes (optional)
Fit the strobe unit to the left side step on the firewall and feed all of the strobe wiring through
the left-hand cable collar in the firewall this separates the high voltage strobe wiring from
the low voltage signal wiring that passes through the right hand cable collar.
Connect the strobe power supply wiring to Connector E and connect the strobe output wiring
to the strobe wires that were fitted in the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines
task. Fit the strobe unit to the top of the fin and connect the wiring.
Wingtip strobe units will be connected after the wings have been fitted to the fuselage.
Seal the cable collars
Once all wiring has been routed through the 2 cable collars, each collar must be sealed with
automotive exhaust sealer putty, which is available from any auto supply shop.
Push the putty into the cable collars from the firewall side until it can be seen inside the cabin
and then smooth both sides off with your thumb. This will provide a fire resistant plug seal
that will delay an engine fire from reaching the cabin through the cable collars.
Connect the high-tension leads and CHT sensor
Remove the ram air ducts from the cylinder heads. Remove the left rear spark plug and fit the
CHT sensor under the plug. Refit the spark plug.
The high-tension leads are zip tied in pairs and grouped for each side of the engine, and the
lengths of the leads are such that each pair will only fit properly to one cylinder. Test fit the
leads with the ducts off, and then feed them through the rubber grommet in the rear of each
duct and push the spark plug leads firmly onto the spark plugs. Replace the ram air ducts.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Wire the fuel pump
Two fuel pump wires were fitted through the console to the fuel pump in the Pre-Paint>
Fuselage>Fit control cables and lines task: one wire will be the positive and one wire will be
the negative or earth to the fuel pump. Determine which wire will be the positive wire and
which will be negative or earth wire and label each end of each wire with masking tape. The
forward or firewall end of both wires will be fitted to Connector D.
Route the firewall end of both wires so that there is enough length for Connector D and then
trim the rear ends of both wires so that they end beside the fuel pump.
Fit a red female spade connector and a red heat shrink tag to the positive wire and a red male
spade connector and a red heat shrink tag to the red wire from the fuel pump. Connect the
positive wire to the red wire from the fuel pump.
Crimp one 4mm ring terminal with a black heat shrink tag to each of the following wires:
1. The negative or earth wire from Connector D;
2. The black wire from the fuel pump;
3. A 100mm length of 16 gauge wire this will earth the header tank quick drain:
4. 2 lengths of 16 gauge wire 100mm longer that the fuel lines these wires will earth
the wing tank quick drains. Crimp both wires into the one ring terminal.
Drill a 4mm hole through the floor near the fuel pump and fit a 4mm countersunk screw with
a Tinnerman washer from under the fuselage, then place all 4 ring terminals over the screw
and secure them with an M4 Nyloc nut and washer. Tighten firmly. This will ensure a secure
fixed earth point for the entire fuel system that cannot accidentally become disconnected.
Feed the 100mm length of 16 gauge wire
under the header tank, out of the quick drain
hole and through a small hole in the side of
the quick drain fairing, trim to length and fit
a 4mm ring terminal with a black heat shrink
tag and fix to the side of the quick drain
fairing with a stainless steel self tapping
screw as shown at right.
Run a length of twisted lock wire from the quick drain fitting to the same point, fit a 4mm
ring terminal with a black heat shrink tag and connect it under the same self tapping screw as
shown above. This will lock the quick drain fitting in place and also earth the header tank.
Run the wing tank earth wires along the outside of the protective sheath with the fuel lines to
the wing tanks and zip tie the wires in place. These wires will be connected when the wings
have been fitted. Label both wires [Earth] with masking tape.
Wire the flaps and optional landing lights
Run a pair of 16 gauge wires from the firewall through the console, along the back of the front
seats and up behind the door to the flap motor. Fit male and female spade connectors to
connect to the flap motor.
Landing light wires follow the same path through the console and are then routed out through
the floor and up inside the left hand wing strut.
Label each pair of wires for later fitting to Connector D.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Fuel gauge wiring from the wing tank fuel gauges
Before completing the upholstery around the windscreen the 2 wires from the wing tank fuel
gauges must be routed down the windscreen pillars.

Drill a 5mm (arrowed above) hole slightly in

front of the forward wing mounting lug on
each side and feed 2 wires out of the hole and
back towards the rear wing mounting lug as
shown above and tape them to the fuselage.

Centre cowl
fastener

Run the inside portion of the wires down the

windscreen pillar, holding them in place with short lengths of cloth tape as shown above right.
The wires from both sides need to meet slightly to the right of centre as shown above left.
Leave the wires hanging down about 300mm and make sure that the wires from each side are
clearly labeled [Left] and [Right] use masking tape to label them. There is no polarity
requirement for these wires. These wires will be fitted to Connector E.
Note that these wires are quite separate from the wing tank earth wires that were fitted earlier.
The upholstery strips can now be glued into place to cover the wires refer to the PostPaint>Fuselage>Upholstery 1 task for detail. In the factory we place these wires before the
upholstery is fitted, which is shown in the photos above, however you could equally install all
of the upholstery apart from the windscreen strips and then fit them once the wires have been
placed.
The top ends of these wires will be connected to the wing tank fuel gauges when the wings
have been fitted to the fuselage. Leave them taped to the fuselage until then.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Connect the multi pin connectors
Each wire inside the cabin has been labeled with masking tape as it was fitted in order to
clearly identify where it came from. If any wires have not been labeled then use a circuit
tester to trace the wire to its source and then label it clearly.
Use the multi pin connector diagrams from the Assemble instrument panel task to sort and
group the wires for each connector together. Trim each group to an even length, then strip
4mm from the insulation of each wire and fit the appropriate connector type to each wire:
male spade connectors for a female connector body and female spade connectors for a male
connector body.
The connector bodies that will be used are the matching halves of the connectors that were
used in the Assemble instrument panel task these were store at the completion of that task.
Use the connector diagrams and pin numbering assignments from the Assemble instrument
panel task to very carefully fit each spade connector into the connector body until it clicks
into place in the same manner as you did in the Assemble instrument panel task.
Take your time with this step the wiring to each pin must be absolutely correct!

RF Suppressor

Before

After

Notice the clear labeling of each connector in the photo above right.
Clip a ferrite RF Suppressor (shown opened at right)
around each wiring bundle as it exits from the cable
collar in the firewall, taking care not to crush any
single wire when you clip it shut.
Use a zip tie around the wiring bundle to hold the RF
Suppressor from sliding down the wires.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Fit the VHF radio wiring harness
The Aircraft Harness pack includes the wiring
harness and all of the necessary hardware: the
Push To Talk (PTT) buttons for the control stick
and the headset jacks for the top of the cross
beam outboard of the seat backs. All wires are
clearly labeled and the headset jacks are colour
coded as well for ease of installation. The harness
goes through the console and exits in 2 places:
the PTT wires exit under the control stick and the
headset wires exit each side of the console behind
the seats. The multi-pin plug connects to the
digital harness behind the panel so leave the plug
about 400mm above the console. Note that in all cases the grey wires are the earth wires.
Use a flexible rod inserted from the access hole behind the seats to draw these wires back
through the console, then work through the access hole in the side of the console to feed the
control stick PTT wires only around and out of the hole under control column as shown
arrowed below right. Fit a rubber grommet to the hole first to prevent chafing of the wires.
For a dual stick: feed both groups of PTT wires
up and into the left underside of the control stick,
taking the Pilot group up the left hand side and
the Co-Pilot group up the right hand side.
For a single stick: feed the Pilot group up and
into the stick and route the Co-Pilot group into
the right seat base. You will need to cut an access
hole under the right-hand seat in this case.
Both groups contain 2 pairs of wires: the blue and
gray wires are for the PTT button while the green
and gray wires are for the optional remote
memory feature. Route the wires as shown in the
photo at right, leaving enough room for full and
free movement of the control stick.
Fit the wires to the PTT buttons and push the PTT buttons into
the top of the control stick, or in the case of a single stick fit
the Co-pilots PTT into the front of the right seat base.
Separate the pilot and co-pilot headset wires (both sets are
labeled as shown at right) and route them out of holes in either
side of the console across behind the seat back to the jack
locations. Strip the ends of the wires and solder them to the
tags on the jacks, (the jacks are colour coded to match the
wiring) and then fit the jacks into place.
We suggest that you mount the jacks in the top of the beam
between the seat back and the side of the fuselage. This tends
to keep the headset wires out of the way in flight.
Zip tie the wires up under the rear lip of the beam drill 3
holes along the bottom of each seat back for the zip ties.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring
Connect the VHF antenna cable
The VHF coaxial antenna cable was installed in the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Fit control cables
and lines task and connected to the VHF antenna in the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Empennage>
Fit vertical tail fin task. Trim the cable off level with the top of the firewall and fit the BNC
connector that is supplied with the wiring kit (fitting instructions are included).
Fit the transponder encoder, antenna and cable
Start by mounting the encoder unit to the
firewall with the connecting plugs end
facing downwards the encoder unit
attaches to a base (both shown at right)
with a thumbscrew so the base can be
mounted to the firewall with 3 stainless
steel self-tapping screws and then the box
is fitted into it. Make sure that the
encoder will mount above the throttle
shaft and not foul the back of any
instruments when the panel is fitted.
The static line up from the console will
need to be branched with a T piece to
connect to the encoder before connecting to the other static instruments.
Fit the supplied wiring harness plug to the encoder unit, tighten the plug retaining screws by
hand and leave the other end free for later connection to the transponder unit when the
instrument panel is fitted.
Mount the transponder antenna under the fuselage (shown fitted below right) you will need
to drill a 22mm hole through the floor of the aircraft on the centerline 415mm back from the
base of the firewall. The antenna must be mounted facing down with the ground plane (the
large round plate) fitted against the fuselage and held in place with the antenna flange. Smear
the top of the ground plane with white silicone sealer before fitting to seal it to the fuselage.
The retaining nut and washer can then be
fitted from inside the fuselage you will
have to work inside the front section of
the console for this step.
Tighten the retaining nut firmly: do not
over-tighten, then wipe away any excess
silicone sealer that may have squeezed
out from around the ground plane.
Connect the supplied coaxial antenna cable to the back of the antenna and route the cable out
of the console and up the firewall for later connection to the transponder unit when the
instrument panel is fitted. Route the coaxial cable so that all bends are gentle and take care to
avoid crushing the coaxial cable in any way.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Install electrical wiring task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls

Objectives of this task:
To fit all of the console controls: the control stick, elevator trim and brake system.
Materials required:
Card # J17 Elevator System and Control Stick
Card # J8 Dual Brakes
Card # J2 Trim System
Control stick
Fit the 2 eccentric aileron stops to the rear end plate
with 2 Allen head cap screws as shown at right.
The control stick should still be partly assembled from
the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior> Console>Fit
Control Stick task. Clean any debris from the front and
rear bushes and apply a small amount of lubricant to the
bushes. Fit the control shaft into the console from the
front, wipe away any lubricant from the rear of the
control shaft and fit the aileron bellcrank to the rear of
the shaft with an AN3-16A bolt and Nyloc nut, with the
bolt fed up through the bellcrank.
Refer to the drawing on the next page for detail.

Fit the control stick to the pivot plate with an AN3-13A bolt, taking care to fit a flat nylon
washer on each side between the stick and the plate. Connect the elevator cable rod end to the
control stick with an AN3-21A bolt, spacer, 1/4 flat washer and a Nyloc nut as shown in the
photo above and in the drawing on the next page.
Check for full and free movement of the control stick.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls
Brake system
Cut a short length of sheet aluminium the width of the brake lever slot and about 40mm in
length. Bend the aluminium strip in half, apply a smear of Araldite inside the bend and crimp
it to the front of the brake lever slot this is the bearing surface for the brake lever cam.
The brake lever should still be assembled from the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Console>
Pre-Fit Handbrake task: fit the brake lever mount bracket to the front inside of the console
and secure with 2 x by UNC Allen head cap bolts and flat washers. Fit the lever into
the bracket with an AN4-11 bolt and castle nut, with a thin flat washer on each side of the
lever, tighten the castle nut firmly and lock it in place with a split pin.
Hint: a magnet will help you place the flat washers.
Refer to the drawing on the next page for detail.
Fit the master cylinder to the front of the console
with 2 x by UNC Allen head cap bolts and
fit the clevis to the bottom of the lever with an
AN5-11 bolt and castle nut, tighten the castle nut
firmly and lock in place with a split pin.
Drill a hole near the top left of the front face of
the console and feed the brake hose into the console
then down and out of the hole behind the top of the
main undercarriage legs. Fit a rubber grommet over
the brake hose at the front of the console, blow the
hose clear and fit it to the brass fitting on the master
cylinder. Tighten the fitting firmly. Leave the brake
hose about 50mm below the fuselage and trim off.
Fit a brass T connection to the hose, then run a
length of brake hose down each main undercarriage
leg to each brake assembly as shown in the photo at
right. The short length of PVC tubing over the
brake hose is to protect against chafing from the
wheel spat. Zip tie the brake hose to the leg.
Check that all of the brake hose fittings are tight.
Fill the reservoir on the master cylinder with the
recommended brake fluid, loosen the bleed valves
on the wheel cylinder units (circled in yellow
above) and slowly pump clean brake fluid through
the brake lines.
Pay careful attention to the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir during this
procedure and keep the fluid level topped up, otherwise you run the risk of drawing air back
into the lines, which would mean starting all over again.
When brake fluid reaches the wheel cylinders close off each bleed valve and then pressure
bleed each wheel cylinder in turn until no more air remains in the brake lines and the brake
lever feels firm and not at all spongy when pressure is applied.
When you are satisfied with the brake pressure, top up the fluid and replace the reservoir cap.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls
Elevator trim lever assembly
Connect the trim cable rod end to the lefthand trim lever with an AN3-10A bolt, 3/16
and 1/4 flat washers and a Nyloc nut. Clean
any debris away from the trim bush and fit
the trim shaft and levers, with soft washers
under the levers, and secure the levers to the
shaft with an AN3-35 bolt and castle nut. The
castle nut should be fitted to the left-hand
side of the console, tightened firmly and
locked in place with a split pin as shown in
the photo at right.
Check for full fore and aft stop-to-stop
movement of the trim levers.
Pitot tubing
Use a flexible rod to draw a length of ID PVC tubing through from the wiring access hole
in the lower front of the console, through the console and out of the hole under fuselage where
the brake line exits.
Leave enough length so that the top of the tubing is just below the bottom of the windscreen
and so that the bottom of the tubing reaches across to the right-hand strut bushing.
The top end of the pitot tubing will be connected in Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit the
instrument panel and the bottom end will be connected once the wings have been fitted.
Fuel tap
Fit the red fuel tap handle to the fuel tap shaft
as shown in the photo at right.
Position the L shaped plastic guard in front
of and below the tap, drill holes for the end
pegs and Araldite the guard into place.
Placards
Place the fuel tap placard behind the fuel tap.
Place the trim placard above the trim lever on
top of the console with the front of the
placard level with the front of the brake lever
slot.
Place the brake lever placard behind the
brake lever slot with the rear of the placard
level with the rear of the trim placard.

This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals

Objectives of this task:
To fit the rudder pedals and steering links to the aircraft, and fit the rudder cable to the rudder
pedals and set the deflection of the rudder.
Materials required:
Card # J3 Rudder
Card # J19 Noseleg for the steering yoke
Fit the pedals
The rudder pedal assembly will be fitted to 3 sets of bearing blocks, 2 on the moulded floor
mounts and 1 on the lower front of the console. Sit the pedals in the lower mounting blocks on
the mounts and clean the front and back holes in the mounts with a 3/16 drill. There are
captive nuts in the centre holes in each mount so do not drill any centre holes.
Apply a thin layer of grease to the half-round cutouts in the upper and lower rudder pedal
blocks and then fit the rudder pedals into place in the lower blocks. Seat the pedal assemblies
in the blocks and fit the upper blocks and clamp plates and secure with an AN4-25A centre
bolt to each block to hold it in place. Check for minimal side-to-side movement.
Place a flat washer under the head of each bolt.
Blocks

Stops

Detail shown
below
Floor mounts

Now fit the bottom clamp plates in place inside the floor mounts one at a time: start with the
front AN3-25A bolt and Nyloc nut the front nut can be awkward to fit but if it is super glued
to the plate then the plate can be held in place and the bolt can be threaded down into it.
Fit the rear AN3-25A bolt and Nyloc nut all as shown at right.
When all bolts and nuts have been fitted, tighten each nut to safety
and then tighten the centre bolts down firmly.
Check for free fore and aft movement of the rudder pedals.
It may be necessary to adjust the tension on the bolts slightly if the
pedals are binding.
Fit the UNF Allen head cap screws through the pedal travel
stops beside the pilots side right rudder pedal on the rear bar and
fit UNF plain nuts behind. These will be set later in this task.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals
Assemble and fit the steering yoke
Trim off the moulding lip from around the hole in the rubber bush with a sharp knife if
required. Press the rubber bush into the smaller hole in the steering yoke as shown and apply a
smear of grease to the mating surfaces between the
soft connection link and the steering link. Press the
spacer tube into the rubber bush.
Fit the steering assembly to the noseleg: have
someone hold the tail of the aircraft down and
lower the nose leg until the steering yoke and soft
link can be fitted between the upper and lower
bushes with the arms of the yoke facing rearwards.
Lightly grease the top and bottom of the nose leg
and then push the nose leg back up and lower the
nose of the aircraft. Refer to the drawing below and
the photos on the next page for detail.
Connect the soft link to the steering yoke with an
AN4-16A bolt and large flat washer and secure
with a washer and Nyloc nut and tighten the nut to
safety. If nose leg is not drilled, then centre the
front wheel so that it is pointed exactly straight
ahead, move the steering yoke assembly so that
both arms are an equal distance from the firewall
and then drill a 3/16 hole through the hole in the
soft link and all the way through the noseleg and
fix the soft link in place with an AN3-22A bolt,
washer and Nyloc nut and tighten the nut to safety.

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Rubber bush
and spacer

Soft
link

Steering
yoke

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals
Fit the steering yoke and pushrods
Fit the retaining collar to the top of the nose leg with an AN3-22A bolt, washer and Nyloc nut
and tighten the nut to safety. The nose leg is now final fitted as shown below.
Assemble the pushrods: thread a rod end
with a plain nut to each end of each pushrod.

Retaining collar

Do not tighten the nuts until the pushrod

lengths have been adjusted.
Cut 2 rectangles of rubber sheet to
approximately 30 x 50mm and punch a hole
in the centre of each just big enough to pass
the pushrod through. These are dust covers
and they will be fixed to the firewall at the
end of this task. Slip one over each pushrod
for now.
The pushrods are different lengths: the longer
pushrod fits to the right-hand side of the
steering yoke and the shorter pushrod fits to
the left-hand side of the steering yoke.

Steering yoke

Soft
link

Fit the pushrods though the holes in the

firewall and then connect them to the steering
yoke with AN4-13A bolts.
Each bolt is fed down from the top of the
yoke with an AN960-516 flat washer fitted
under the head of the bolt, then the rod end
and then a AN960-416L flat washer fitted
between the rod end and the yoke and a
regular AN960-416 flat washer and Nyloc
nut fitted below the yoke as shown at right.
Tighten all of the Nyloc nuts to safety and
mark each with TorqueSeal.
The dust cover is shown fitted in the lower
photo, however it will not be final fitted until
the end of this task, which is when this photo
was taken.

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Pushrod and
rod end with
plain nut

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals
Adjust the push rod lengths and connect
Now the pushrods can be adjusted to length and connected to the rudder pedals.
Set the nose wheel so that it is facing straight ahead move the aircraft back a few meters and
then move it forward in a straight line so that the nose wheel is aligned correctly.
Set the rudder pedals so that the tops of the pedals are all in line when viewed from the side,
as shown in the lower left of the drawing at the end of this task.
Adjust the length of the left-hand pushrod by screwing the rod ends in or out an equal amount
at each end of the pushrod until the rod end lines up with the hole in the pilots side right
rudder pedal arm without altering the position of the nose wheel and then fit the rod end to the
outside of the rudder pedal arm with an AN4-14A bolt through the pedal arm then an AN960416L flat washer and then the rod end followed by an AN960-516 flat washer and Nyloc nut.
Repeat the length adjustment procedure for the right-hand pushrod, still keeping the tops of
the rudder pedals all in line, then fit the rod end to the outside of the co-pilots side left rudder
pedal arm with an AN4-14A bolt through the pedal arm then an AN960-416L flat washer and
then the rod end followed by an AN960-516 flat washer and Nyloc nut.

Pushrod and
rod end
with plain
nut

Rudder
cable tab

Rudder
travel stop

Check that the rudder pedals can move the nose wheel freely from side to side and make any
fine adjustments that may be needed to have the tops of the rudder pedals all in line with the
nose wheel tracking straight ahead.
When the final adjustments have been made then all the plain nuts on the rod ends can be
locked off, all the Nyloc nuts can be tightened to safety and all nuts can be marked with
TorqueSeal.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals
Connect the rudder cable
Clamp the outer cable to the inside front of the cable housing with the notched saddle clamp
and backing plate and secure the clamp in place with 2 x AN3 bolts fitted from the outside of
the cable housing and Nyloc nuts with flat washers under them. Tighten the nuts to safety.
Connect the rudder cable rod end to the right of the tab at the top of the pilots side right
rudder pedal (circled in yellow below) and secure with an AN4-6A bolt through the pedal tab
then an AN960-416L flat washer and then the rod end followed by an AN960-516 flat washer
and Nyloc nut. Tighten the Nyloc nut to safety and mark with TorqueSeal.
Move the rudder cable to half travel and then set the rear of the rudder to a position 5mm to
the right of the aircraft centreline (refer to the photos at the bottom of this page that show a
rudder position/deflection jig in place under the rudder) and hold it in that position with some
cloth tape or have someone hold it in place for you.
Set the rudder pedals to the
neutral position, with the nose
wheel facing straight ahead and
the pedals all lined up along the
tops.
Position the outer cable so that
it runs in as smooth a line as
possible from the cable entry
cut-out in the console to the
rudder pedal tab and then mark
and drill the 5 x 7/32 holes
through the cable housing and
into the console and rivet the cable housing (circled in green at right) to the console with 5 x
7/32 TLR rivets.

Adjust the rudder deflection

The rear of the rudder should be able to be move 78mm to the left and 78mm to the right from
a neutral position that is defined as being 5mm to the right of the aircraft centreline.
This range of movement is controlled and limited by movement of the rudder pedals.

The photos above show a rudder position/deflection jig in place under the rudder.
The limits are adjusted by the rudder stop screws beside the pilots side right rudder pedal:
adjust the pedal travel by using the Allen head cap screws until the rudder deflection is
correct. Lock off the Allen head cap screws with the plain nuts, recheck all deflections and
mark the lock nuts with TorqueSeal.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals
Fit the centring springs

Anchor bolts

Rudder
travel stop

The centring springs are attached by links of chain bolted to the top of the centre rudder
pedals with AN3-11A bolts and then anchored to the firewall by means of anchor bolts refer
to the drawing at the end of this task for detail. Position the anchor bolts so that they are
evenly spaced and then mark and drill 3/16 holes and fit the anchor bolts through the firewall
with a flat penny washer each side and a Nyloc nut tightened to safety.
Fit the centring springs into place and use pliers to bend the hooked ends of the springs so that
the springs cannot easily or accidentally be removed.
Adjust the spring tension by altering the length of the anchor bolts so that the nose wheel will
return to centre when there is no weight on the nose wheel (hold the tail down to do this
check). When adjustments are complete tighten the anchor bolt nuts.
Fit the dust covers
The last step is to fit the rubber dust covers into place
hold each cover so that it is square and level and fix it in
place by means of either contact adhesive or small screws
and washers.
The photo at right shows a dust cover fixed in place with
silicone sealer and 4 small stainless steel self-tapping
screws and flat washers.

The next page of this task shows a drawing of the rudder pedal and steering assembly.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals

This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Controls>Fit rudder pedals task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit flap drive motor

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit flap drive motor

Objectives of this task:
To fit the flap drive motor and actuating assembly.
Materials required:
Card J16 Electric Flaps
Epoxy resin and flock
Fit the flap shaft
Remove the inner flap drive arm from the flap drive shaft by removing the 2 x AN3 bolts and
pulling the flap drive arm completely off of the shaft.
Feed the bare shaft into the cabin through the flap shaft
mount in the top right of the cabin, first taking care that
the bolt holes for the flap drive arm will end up on the
left-hand side of the cabin, and slip the inner flap drive
arm over the shaft before the shaft exits the cabin
through the left side flap shaft mount.

Ensure that the inner flap drive arm will be 180 away
from the outer flap drive arms as shown above in red.
Refit the inner flap drive arm with the AN3 bolts, flat
washers and Nyloc nuts and tighten the nuts to safety
as shown in the photo at above right.
Fit the outer flap drive arms to each end of the flap
shaft and secure each with an AN3 bolt and Nyloc nut
as shown at right. Tighten the nuts to safety.

Prepare the flap drive motor assembly

Bolt the mounting bracket to the post on the gear case of the flap motor assembly by placing a
Bundy tube through the post and then an AN3-12A through the bracket and the post. Fit a flat
washer and a Nyloc nut with the nut facing into the cabin and tighten the nut to safety.
Refer to the photo on the next page for detail.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit flap drive motor
Fit the flap drive motor assembly
Mounting
bracket

Flap shaft and

flap drive arm

Rod end

Actuating shaft

Flap motor
assembly

Pilots door

Bolt the rod end of the flap drive motor assembly to the flap drive arm with an AN4-10A bolt
through an AN960-516 flat washer, the rod end, an AN960-416 flat washer, the drive arm, an
AN960-416 flat washer and a Nyloc nut.
Tighten the nut to safety and then swing the motor assembly forwards and up until the
mounting bracket sits on top of the door jamb as shown above. Align the flap drive arm to be
completely vertical (i.e. directly under the flap shaft) as pictured above.
Measure forwards from the vertical
centre of the flap shaft 272mm and
mark the front of the mounting bracket
as shown at right. Drill and countersink
the 2 x 3/16 mounting holes through
the door jamb and mark the location of
the mounting bracket.
Cut away any upholstery and peel cloth from the where the bracket will be mounted and
roughen the bracket and the door jamb surface where the bracket will be bonded into place.
Note that the flap drive motor will sit at a slight angle to the vertical due to the profile of the
fuselage skin, so it may be necessary to make the mounting bolt holes slightly oversize to
accommodate the mounting angle. It is very important that the flap drive motor actuating
shaft can be extended and retracted with no binding at any point in its travel. In the factory we
fit the flap drive motor in place with packing underneath and power up the motor (12v) and
then run the actuating shaft through its full range of travel to check for any binding before
flocking the bracket into place.
Flock the mounting bracket into place on an 8mm bed of flock and fix it loosely in place with
2 x 3/16 waxed countersunk screws and Nyloc nuts and leave overnight to cure.
Tighten the nuts to safety the next day.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit flap drive motor
Fit the flap indicator

Assemble the flap indicator: paint the outside of the indicator washer red and mark the 3 flap
positions in a dark colour. Push the inner cable through the
Crimp tool
indicator body and through the indicator washer and then all the
way into the long end of the indicator body. Slide the washer to
the last mark at the long end of the indicator body as circled
above right and crimp it to the inner cable. Using the supplied
crimping tool, crimp the indicator body to the outer cable.

Screw the L shaped bracket to the bottom of the motor assembly with a countersunk screw
(circled in yellow above), then drop the AN3-16A bolt down through the actuating shaft and
add the 3 spacers and the 2 retaining nuts (circled in green above).
Position the flap indicator on the left-hand
windscreen pillar so that the cable follows the
line of the door opening and remains clear of
the opening and screw the flap indicator and
cable into place with the supplied nylon clips
as shown at right.
Check the outer cable for length and trim as
required then crimp the threaded end in place.
Fit the threaded cable end to the L bracket
on the motor with 2 thin nuts and fit the inner
cable to the long bolt through the actuating
shaft, all as shown in the photo on the bottom
of the previous page.
Check that all bolts and nuts are tightened, route the power lead behind the motor assembly
and down behind the door opening for later connection in the Post-Paint>Fuselage>
Interior>Install electrical wiring task. Adjustment of the flap motor and indicator will be
done in the Post-Paint>Wings>Fit flaps task.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit flap drive motor task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit instrument panel housing

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit instrument panel housing

Objectives of this task:
To fit the instrument panel housing to the aircraft. This task will require 2 people.
Materials required:
Card #4: Panel mount throttle
Prepare the panel housing

Standard panel

Jumbo panel

Instrument panel housings come in 2 sizes: Standard and Jumbo. The Standard housing is
mounted with 5 mounting bolts while the Jumbo housing uses 7 mounting bolts.
Refer to the photos above for mount positioning (arrowed in yellow).

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit instrument panel housing
Fit the rubber grommets and the machined aluminium washers to the rear lip of the panel
use a machined washer to mark the centre of each hole then drill each hole to 22mm and fit a
grommet into each hole. Drill each machined washer out to 7/32 and fit into each grommet.
Cut away the fabric under the Carb Heat,
Choke and Cabin Heat nameplate and flock
the nameplate into place with 5-Minute
Araldite and flock hold it in place with
spring clamps as shown at right while the
flock cures.
Make sure that the nameplate is positioned
well down towards, and level with, the
bottom of the panel as shown at right.
Drill out the 3 cable holes to suit the cable outer fittings.
This is a good time to fit the wet compass to the top of the panel: much easier now than when
the panel has been fitted. Measure the exact centre of the panel and position the compass so
that it is square to the front face of the panel and mount with screws and Nyloc nuts.
Tidy under the panel
Once the panel housing is fitted access under the panel will be restricted so take some time
now to tidy up under the panel lock-wire the fuel line sheath to the firewall fitting, check
that all the rudder pedal bolts are tightened correctly and generally clean the area out.
Fit the panel
This will take 2 people, one to hold the panel and one to position the panel. Fit a 3/16 drill
bit into your drill and have it handy inside the aircraft. The panel is held in place with AN312A bolts and steel lock nuts, with the lock nuts located inside the engine compartment.
Hold the panel in place, which is centred in the fuselage and as high up the firewall as it can
go. Move any wiring away from the area of the mounting holes and have the second person
measure the distance in from the door jambs to the side of the panel and then move the panel
until it is exactly in the centre of the aircraft.
When it is correctly located, drill the top
centre hole through from the inside (shown at
right) and fit a washer and steel lock nut.
Check the aircraft for level and then check
the panel for level and drill the top left bolt,
then the top right and then each of the
remaining bolts.
Have the second person watch as each hole is
drilled and make sure that the drill bit does
not come into contact anything in the engine
compartment wiring, battery, etc.
The drill bit will be visible as a point on the firewall before it breaks through and the person
watching must be vigilant to prevent any possible damage. It may only be necessary to move
a wire or something before drilling further.
Tighten all of the steel lock nuts to safety.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit instrument panel housing
Locate and fit the throttle cable
The last step is to drill through the firewall for the throttle cable.
The positioning of the hole is important to minimise the chance of the throttle cable binding in
the full forward/full throttle position: start by positioning the throttle linkage almost fully
forward until the input lever is about 10mm away from the front of the panel housing the
thickness of the tip of your index finger is about 10mm.

With the linkage in that position, make a mark (circled above) directly ahead of the output
lever (which must face as shown) and then drill a pilot hole at that mark rotate the throttle
linkage backwards to allow access for the drill and hold the drill firmly against the firewall to
make sure that it does not move about while drilling.
As before, have the other person check that the drill will not cause any damage as it comes
through the firewall and move any wiring out of the way if needed.
Rotate the throttle linkage forwards and check that the pilot hole is precisely in front of the
output lever and correct if necessary.
You can now work from the front of the firewall and expand the pilot hole until the throttle
cable (complete with the adjustment nuts) can just pass though the hole.
Drill out 2 flat penny washers to fit over the outer cable and then cut a slot in each so that they
can be fitted over the throttle cable. One will fit to the cable on each side of the firewall.
You will need to carefully grind both ends of the throttle cable to size the manufacturing
process often leaves some excess solder on both fittings and sometimes the ball end may have
the inner cable standing slightly proud, which will need to be ground back a little.
Fit the throttle cable into place through the firewall. Connection and adjustment of all cabling
will be addressed in the task Post-Paint>Firewall forward>Engine control cabling.
Fit the throttle input shafts through the pivot blocks and fully onto the rod ends on the input
levers and Loctite each input shaft into place with a drop of Loctite 620. The pilots side input
shaft will require a machined collar to be fitted on the shaft on each side of the pivot block.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit instrument panel housing task.

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Post-Paint> Fuselage>Interior>Engine control cabling

Post-Paint> Fuselage>Interior>Engine control cabling

Objectives of this task:
To fit all engine control cabling from the instrument panel to the engine.
Materials required:
Throttle

Cables: Throttle, Carb Heat, Choke, Cabin

Heat (optional see Card #25)

Choke
Carb heat

Size the outer cables

The Carb Heat, Choke and the optional Cabin Heat outer cables will
need to be cut to length. This is done by removing the inner cables
completely and then fitting the outer cables through the panel and
routing them through the firewall to the appropriate locations and then
trimming each outer cable to length. The Choke and the optional Cabin
Heat cables will then need to have allowance made for the threaded
end section, which is then crimped onto the cut end (use the crimping
tool, shown at right). The throttle cable is supplied ready to use.
Fit the cables to the instrument panel

Carb heat
Throttle

Choke
Cabin heat

Fit the Carb Heat, Choke and the optional Cabin Heat cables to the lower centre of the
instrument panel through the nameplate and secure each to the panel with a serrated washer
and lock nut and then route the cables through the firewall as shown above.
Fit the throttle cable through the firewall from the engine side with the ball end inside the
cabin and secure with a slotted flat washer and nut on each side of the firewall as shown.
Fit the ball end of the throttle cable into the drive arm on the throttle shaft.

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Post-Paint> Fuselage>Interior>Engine control cabling
Throttle and choke

Throttle
cable

Carburettor
bracket

Choke
cable

Note the cable routing shown above this photo was taken looking straight down.
Fit the throttle cable first: undo the front nut completely until it is resting on the inner cable
and then fit the inner cable through the slotted top hole in the bracket and fit the threaded
cable end into the bracket. Fit the lock nut onto the threaded cable end and tighten so that the
lock nuts are in the centre of the threaded cable end.
Fit the barrel end of the cable into the throttle
linkage on the carburettor with a washer each
side and a split pin through the hole in the
barrel end of the cable.

Throttle

Adjust the throttle cable until at full throttle

(with the panel mounted throttle shafts fully
forward) the throttle linkage is just touching
the front stop on the carburettor. Tighten all
4 lock nuts firmly for the moment fine
adjustments will be made later.
Put 1 lock nut on the threaded end of the
choke cable and fit it through the bottom hole
in the bracket. Fit the other lock nut,
centering the threaded end in the bracket.

Choke
Right hand side view of carburettor body showing cables

Make sure that the choke drive arm is fully forward and slip the brass ferrule over the inner
cable then fit the ferrule into the hole in the drive arm. Bend the inner cable at right angles in
front of the ferrule. Cut the excess inner cable off. Slip the ferrule through the retaining collar
and fit to the to the drive arm with a washer and split pin fitted to the brass ferrule on the
underside of the drive arm. Refer the photos and drawing on the next page for detail.
Adjust the choke cable until with the choke all the way in the choke arm just touches the stop
on the carburettor body. Tighten the lock nuts firmly.

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Post-Paint> Fuselage>Interior>Engine control cabling
Carb heat
Run the outer cable through the clamp and secure by tightening the
clamp, then slip the brass ferrule over the inner cable.
Make sure that the air valve drive arm is fully forward and then fit the
ferrule into the hole in the drive arm. Bend the inner cable at right
angles in front of the ferrule. Cut the excess inner cable off. Slip the
ferrule through the retaining collar and fit to the to the drive arm with a
washer and split pin fitted to the brass ferrule on the underside of the
drive arm.
Adjust the Carb Heat cable with the clamp until with the Carb Heat T
handle all the way in the air valve drive arm is fully forward as shown
above. Tighten the clamp bolts firmly.
Cabin heat
Put 1 lock nut on the threaded end of the Cabin Heat cable and fit it up
through the hole in the firewall beside the Cabin Heat valve. Fit the
other lock nut, fixing the threaded cable end through the firewall.
Make sure that the Cabin Heat valve drive arm is fully forward and then fit the ferrule into the
hole in the drive arm. Bend the inner cable at right angles in front of the ferrule. Cut the
excess inner cable off. Slip the ferrule through the retaining collar and fit to the to the drive
arm with a washer and split pin fitted to the brass ferrule on the underside of the drive arm.
Adjust the Cabin Heat cable until with the Cabin Heat knob all the way in the Cabin Heat
valve is fully closed. Tighten the lock nuts firmly.

This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Engine control cabling task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit the instrument panel

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit the instrument panel

Objectives of this task:
To pre- and final fit the instrument panel to the panel housing. This task will require 2 people
so have a friend come over and help you for an hour or so.
Pre-fit the panel
Remove the throttle knobs from the throttle input shafts.
Both people should sit in the aircraft with the panel held between them. The person in the
right-hand seat should reach over the top of the panel and push all of the multi-pin connectors,
instrument tubing, radio and GPS wiring
from the panel back inside the panel housing.
Working together, offer the panel up to the
housing. Lift the bottom of the panel over the
carburettor heat and choke knobs, then
carefully ease the top into place. You may
need to grind small amounts out of the
housing to clear items such as the mag
switches, so use a pen to mark what needs
trimming and remove the panel. Trim away
the marked areas, vacuum away any debris
from the grinding process and refit the panel
until it slips neatly into place.
Fit the panel
Refit the panel as before, but this time the person in the right-hand seat should reach over the
top and connect the panel. Each multi-pin connector should have been clearly marked (A,
B, C, D or E): join each connector pair by pushing them together firmly until the
safety clip clicks into place. Connect the VHF antenna cable and transponder cable.
Fit the panel into the housing and secure it in place with machine screws.
Now you will need to work from under the panel: connect the static line and pitot line with
brass tube joiners and plug in the radio wiring plug.
If you are using a panel mounted GPS, lower the antenna to the floor and then route the
antenna and cable out the bottom right of the panel and back up until the antenna can be
velcroed to the top right of the panel housing near the right corner of the windscreen. The
antenna wire can be tucked back into the small gap between the housing and the firewall and
the excess cable length can be coiled up and zip tied up inside the housing.
Refit the throttle knobs and tighten them firmly.
At this point there will be a large amount of wiring and tubing emerging from the access hole
in the lower front of the console and going up into the panel. In the upholstery kit there is a
piece of upholstery fabric with a Velcro strip at each end: hold the wiring bundle together and
wrap this fabric around it and let the Velcro strip hold it in place: this will tidy things up.
Ideally no loose wiring should hang down under the panel housing, so tuck up any wires that
need tidying and zip tie them into place.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit the instrument panel task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 2

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 2
Objectives of this task:
Fit the remaining interior trim to the aircraft, completing the interior fit out.
Materials required:
Jabiru upholstery kit or equivalent
High heat contact adhesive
Card J9 Seatbelts
Flap drive shaft and flap drive motor cover
Flap drive
shaft

Headset
bracket

Wrap the flap drive shaft in upholstery fabric and fix into place with contact adhesive. The
join line should be at the top rear of the shaft.
Use Velcro tabs to hold the drive motor cover into place.
Headset bracket
Position the headset bracket on the top longitudinal rib and fix in place with 2 TLR rivets as
shown arrowed in yellow in the photo above.

Floor coverings
Test fit the floor coverings first you will
need to carefully cut the front covering to fit
around and under the rudder pedal mounts.
The floor coverings should overlap the
sidewall and console fabric slightly so that no
fibreglass can be seen.
Fix the floor coverings into place with
contact adhesive.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 2
Fuel line covering
Wrap both sheathed fuel lines with the
supplied lengths of Velcro-edged fabric
position the Velcro join line so that it faces
towards the outside of the aircraft. Use zip
ties to secure the sheathed fuel lines to the
rear of the fuselage rib as shown at right.
Rear bulkhead sound curtain
Glue 8 evenly spaced Velcro strips around
the rear bulkhead and attach the sound
curtain by pressing it onto them.

Seat covers
Identify the left and right side seat covers. Slip each seat cover over the correct seat back and
pull the cover as far down as you can, then roll the lower part of the cover over the seat base
and press the Velcro strip along the front edge into place.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 2
Seatbelts

Aileron
bellcrank cover

Bolt the seatbelts to the seatbelt fittings the shoulder harness fits to the outside of each seat
while the lap part of the harness fits beside the console.
Each seatbelt fitting is fitted to the outside of the mounting bracket (away from the seat) with
an AN3 bolt with one washer under the head, through the mounting bracket, the seatbelt
fitting, then the heavy flat washer (from the Seatbelts card) and a plain washer then the
Nyloc nut, all as shown in the photo above. Tighten the Nyloc nuts to safety.
Aileron bellcrank cover
Note that this cover is fitted after the wings have been fitted and the aileron cables have been
connected and adjusted. It is included in this Upholstery 2 task for convenience.
Slip the cover over the rear of the console as shown in the photo above: check that the aileron
cables slots are correctly positioned and they do not cause any restriction to the aileron cables
and fit the cover in place with 3 x 6G stainless self tapping screws: 1 each side at the front of
the cover and 1 at the rear of the cover.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit upholstery 2 task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim

Objectives of this task:
To fit the rudder, and elevator and elevator trim
assembly to the empennage.
Fit the rudder
Hold the rudder up to the vertical fin and fit it into
place with the hinge pins: the top pin will be fitted up
through the hinge from the bottom while the 2 lower
pins will be fitted down from the top. Check for free
movement of the rudder from stop to stop.
Locate the ends of the hinge pins in the retaining slots
and secure each pin in place with pin retainers the
locations are arrowed at right.
Each pin retainer will be held in place with a 5/32
machine thread screw.
Mark each retainer screw with TorqueSeal.
Connect the rudder cable
Withdraw the rudder cable from the slot at
the base of the vertical fin and pull it out
until the locating groove in the outer cable is
level with the 2 mounting bolt holes in the
side of the fin.
Clamp the outer cable to the fin with 2 x
AN3-6A bolts fed from inside the fin, then
the angled aluminium plate with the narrow
Rudder cable hardware
side facing the front of the aircraft, the clamp
backing plate, the saddle clamp (taking care
to locate the locating key on the saddle clamp in the locating groove in the outer cable), then
flat washers and Nyloc nuts, all as shown in the photo below.
Rudder cable fitted

Fit the rod end to the rudder drive arm with an AN3-8A bolt fitted from the top and down
through the drive arm, then an AN960-416 (3/16) flat washer, then the rod end followed by
an AN960-515 (1/4) flat washer and a Nyloc nut as shown above.
Tighten each Nyloc nut to safety and mark the end of each nut with TorqueSeal.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim
Adjust the rudder travel

Make a template that will sit over the rear of the empennage and tape it in place. Find the
centreline of the fuselage and mark a 5mm offset to the right of the centreline onto the
template, then mark 78mm each side of that offset mark as shown in the photos above.
Place a saw stool under the front of the fuselage to lift the
nose wheel off the ground and then adjust the rudder
cable length so that the rudder sits on the 5mm right mark
with the rudder pedals centred, with the pedals all level.
Lock both rod end lock nuts firmly and mark each one
with TorqueSeal.
Now use the rudder pedal adjustment set screws (shown
arrowed at right) to adjust the rudder travel so that the
rudder deflects exactly 98mm to each side of the offset
centre mark as shown in the photos above.
When this has been done tighten up both of the lock nuts
firmly and mark each one with TorqueSeal.
The rudder is now adjusted.

Rudder pedal adjustment detail

Fit the elevator

Hold the elevator up to the horizontal stabiliser and fit the hinge pins in place: all pins are
fitted by pushing them in from the outside of the hinge and towards the rudder.
Check for free movement of the elevator from stop to stop.
Locate the ends of the hinge pins in the retaining
slots, push the trim lever on the console fully
forward and then apply a length of Wotan cloth tape
to the top of the gap between the elevator and the
horizontal stabiliser as shown at right, pressing the
tape over the top of the hinge pins so that they break
through the tape surface. Use one length of tape on
each side of the tailplane, make sure that there are
no wrinkles and press the tape firmly down.
Secure each hinge pin in place with pin retainers.
Each pin retainer will be held in place with a 5/32
machine thread screw.
Mark each retainer screw with TorqueSeal.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim
Connect the elevator cable
Fit the drive arm extension to the elevator drive arm:
secure with an M4 x 25 bolt, washer and Nyloc nut
through the top hole. Tighten firmly and trim off any
excess bolt length.
Fit the elevator cable rod end to the elevator drive arm
with an AN3-10A bolt fitted through the lower hole in
the elevator drive arm and the centre hole in the drive
arm extension. Fit an AN960-416 (3/16) flat washer,
then the rod end followed by an AN960-515 (1/4) flat
washer and a Nyloc nut.
Do not tighten the Nyloc nut or the rod end lock nut until
the cable length has been adjusted in the next step.

Elevator
drive arm

Elevator
cable rod
end
Drive arm
extension

Elevator drive arm detail

Adjust the elevator travel

Use the supplied deflection templates to check the up and down travel of the elevator.

DOWN elevator template

Hold the control stick all the way forward (have someone help you) and check the amount of
down deflection and adjust the cable length (by screwing the rod ends in or out an equal
amount at each end of the cable) until the down deflection is correct.

UP elevator template

Now have your helper hold full back stick and check the amount of up deflection: it should be
very close to correct if the down deflection is OK, however you may need to make some fine
adjustments to equalise elevator travel until both up and down deflections are correct.
The elevator must clear the rudder and the down stop by 2mm at full deflection.
Recheck the up and down deflections and then lock the rod end lock nuts at each end of the
cable and mark each rod end lock nut with TorqueSeal. The elevator is now adjusted.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim
Assemble and fit the elevator trim assembly
Refer to the drawing on the next page: Assemble the trim pivot: press the 2 sealed bearings
into the hub and then pop rivet the assembly together. Assemble the trim spring unit, adjust
the rod end to almost full thread depth and tighten the lock nut.
Connect the trim spring unit to the trim pivot with an AN3-13A bolt through the black pivot
block in the middle of the spring assembly and the top hole in the trim pivot arm, taking
careful note of the arrangement of the washers and the sleeve between the two items.
Connect the trim cable rod end to the trim pivot with an AN3-12A bolt through lower hole in
the trim pivot arm. Fit the trim pivot to the trim horn with an AN4-14A bolt.
Fit the rod end of the trim spring unit to the bottom hole in the elevator drive arm extension
with an AN3-07A bolt.
Push the trim lever on the console fully
forward, hold the trim pivot arm fully
forward as shown at right, align the trim
cable as shown, then drill the 2 x 3/16 trim
cable clamp holes through the trim horn.
If you are working alone you can wedge the trim pivot into position for this step.
Elevator
cable
Trim cable

Elevator
drive arm
extension

Trim horn

Trim pivot

Trim
spring unit

Trim horn

Trim cable
clamp

Trim pivot
block

Trim pivot

Attach the outer trim cable to the right hand side of the trim horn with 2 x AN3-06A bolts
fitted through trim horn, the clamp backing plate and then the saddle clamp and securing with
flat washers and Nyloc nuts, taking care to locate the locating key on the saddle clamp in the
locating groove in the outer cable before tightening the Nyloc nuts to safety.
Use the supplied deflection templates to re-check the up and down travel of the elevator.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim

This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit rudder, elevator and elevator trim task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit doors

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit doors
Objectives of this task:
At this stage the doors have been painted and now they can be refitted to the aircraft.
Materials required:
Door hardware from Card # J1 Doors
Fit the door seals
Clean the inside of the door lip and fit the white door seal rubber around the entire outer edge
of the door. The door seal is adhesive backed: peel the backing paper back as you stick the
seal into place. Start and finish at the top hinge.
Refit the doors
Fit the hinges to the door pivot arms using the screws and nuts that were used in the PrePaint>Fuselage>Pre-fit doors task and tighten the nuts to safety.

Fit each door to the fuselage. Apply a single drop of Loctite 242 to each screw, then fit the top
screw first to hold the top of the door, then fit the bottom screw and check that the door closes
in the centre of the door opening there will be enough movement in the hinge screw holes to
allow the door to be centred very accurately.
Tighten both screws firmly while the door is shut and both latches are closed.
Check that the door can be opened and closed easily and make any minor adjustments that
may be required.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit doors
Remove the masking
Both sides of the window will still be masked at this stage
carefully remove all of the masking until you only have the
blue Fine Line masking tape left around the window and
then very carefully peel the Fine Line tape from the window
by pulling the tape back over itself and in towards the centre
of the window as shown in the photo at right.

Pull
Window

This will allow the edge of the tape to cut the paint to a nice
clean edge, which is the reason for using the tape.
Never pull any masking tape towards the painted surface,
always pull away from the painted surface.

Painted surface

Fit the door swing straps

These straps prevent the doors from swinging
too far forward in windy conditions.
Loop a length of black webbing through the
bracket at the front of each door and measure
out enough webbing so that the door can be
opened to no more than 90 to the fuselage
and the webbing can be wrapped around the
inside the front of the door jamb.
Cut the webbing to length and secure to the
back of the door jamb with a countersunk
screw.
Use your soldering iron to burn the bolt hole through the fabric
this will seal the edges of the hole.
Seal the cut ends of the webbing with a flame.
Fit the screw through the door frame: countersink the hole and fit the
screw with a Tinnerman washer under the head then place a penny
washer over the webbing as shown at right and secure with a Nyloc
nut tightened firmly.

Fit the striker plate

Place the striker plate on the door jamb and align the latch pin
hole. Hold the striker plate in place with some tape and check
that the door can be closed and that the latch pin will fit
though the striker plate make any required adjustments and
then rivet the plate in place with 2 x 5/32 rivets as shown in
the photo at right.
Repeat for the other door.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit doors
Fit the door locks
Fit the door locks though the lock holes in the fuselage behind
each door and fix in place with the retaining nuts. Tighten
each retaining nut firmly.
Fit the locking arm to the end of the shaft with the supplied
screw: apply a drop of Loctite 242 to each screw.
Check that the locking arm works in the correct sense and that
the key can be removed at both the locked and unlocked
positions. It may be necessary to lengthen the slot slightly if
the key cannot be removed in the locked position.
Clean the windows
Now you can clean the windows: start with a small
amount of methylated spirits on a clean cloth and
carefully remove any dust and debris from the painting
process then, using a clean soft cotton cloth, polish both
sides of each window with a good quality cleaner such
as Novus Plastic Polish: start with Novus #2 and then
finish with Novus #1. Novus #3 should only be used for
buffing out extremely heavy scratches.
Support an open door with one hand while you polish
the window.
Any cleaner/polish used must be safe to use on acrylic and must not contain any silicon.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit doors task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Final assembly

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Final assembly

Objectives of this task:
To complete all of the remaining firewall forward assembly work.
Materials required:
Card #15 Spares
Card #22 Hot air mixer box
Card #23 Oil bottle
Card #25 Cabin heater

Prepare the muffler

Fit the inlet air heat shroud to the muffler
with 2 large hose clamps: align the shroud as
pictured with the cutaway in the shroud just
touching the exhaust pipe.
Tighten the hose clamps firmly.
Fit the cabin heater heat exchanger to the
exhaust pipe and push up until it touches the
muffler and tighten the Allen head cap
screws.

Shroud
Heat
exchanger

Hose
clamps

Fit the muffler

Remove the red sealing caps from the ends
of the exhaust pipes and fit the pipes into the
inlet holes in the front of the muffler.
Hold the muffler in place by fitting the
supplied springs from the tags on the muffler
to the tags on the exhaust pipes as shown
arrowed in the photo at right.

Springs

Set
screw

Check if the muffler is touching on the set

screws (arrowed in purple at right) that hold
the cover directly above the muffler: if the
muffler is touching these screws it could eventually wear a hole in the muffler, so mark any
spots where the set screws are touching, remove the muffler and use a hammer to tap a small
indent into the top of the muffler. Refit the muffler and recheck.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Final assembly
Connect the inlet air scat hoses

Flow
Carb inlet

Heated air

Cold air

Engine bay viewed from above showing the inlet air hose arrangement

Air is fed into the carburettor from 2 sources,

cold and heated, through the air mixer box on
the firewall and then into the carburettor air
inlet. In each case a scat hose is used to duct
the air and each scat hose is held in place
with hose clamps.
Start by connecting the air box outlet to the
carburettor air inlet: remove the red sealing
plug from the carburettor and connect the
curved air inlet horn to the mouth of the
carburettor and secure with a hose clamp,
then cut a short length of scat hose to fit
between the horn and the air mixer box outlet
and fit it into place. The scat hose should be
routed in a smooth curve between the 2
fittings as shown in the photo at right.
Fit a length of scat hose to the lower air inlet
fitting on the air box, then hold the lower
cowl in position and cut the scat hose to
length to fit the cold air inlet fitting on the
left-hand side of the cowl. Remove the cowl
and set aside for later fitting.
Run a length of scat hose from the fitting on
the left rear of the muffler to the front fitting
on the air box.
Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Inlet air horn

Heated air

Muffler

Carb inlet
Inlet air ducting as viewed from the right hand side

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Final assembly
Fit the equalising tube
Air mixer box
Eq tube

Eq tube

Carburettor

Route a length of 4mm clear tube from the fitting on the right of the air mixer box to the
compensator fitting on the right rear of the carburettor as shown in the photos above.

Fit the oil overflow bottle

Clip the oil bottle into the bracket on the
lower right of the firewall.
Fit the oil tube from the engine oil filler
fitting, along the top engine mount and curve
it down to the inlet. Cut the tube to length so
that it will not rub on the inside of the lower
cowling and fit to the oil bottle with a hose
clamp.
Cut a short length of oil tube as shown at
right, so that it can be routed over the lower
engine mount and down. Fit the short length
of alloy tube into the bottom of the outlet
tube with a hose clamp then fit the outlet tube
to the oil bottle with a hose clamp.
Use the supplied saddle clamp to fit the outlet
hose to the firewall as shown at right.
Route the 2 x 4mm clear drain hoses from the fuel pump breather and drain along the lower
engine mount and down through the saddle clamp as shown and trim to the same length as the
oil outlet tube.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Final assembly
Connect the cabin heater
Route a length of the smaller size scat hose
(Card #25) from the top fitting on the heat
exchanger to the cabin heat valve on the
firewall.
Route a length of scat hose from the cold air
inlet in the front left of the lower cowling to
the bottom of the heat exchanger unit.

Cold air inlet

Fit the lower engine cowling into place.

Route the hose along the cowling and secure
with zip ties through flocked-on holders as
shown in the photo at lower right.

Cold air
inlet hose

Connect the air inlet hose

Fit the inlet air hose from the NACA duct on
the left side of the lower cowling to the air
mixer box and secure with a hose clamp.

Inlet air
hose

This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Final assembly task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller and spinner

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller and spinner

Objectives of this task:
In this task the propeller will be fitted to the engine and the spinner will be mounted.
The propeller must be fitted before the engine can be rotated or run.
This task covers the fitting of either the Jabiru or Sensenich propeller.
The cylinder compression can cause the propeller to move unexpectedly when rotating the
engine and so for safety reasons all spark plugs should be removed and set aside and the spark
plug holes should be covered with a clean cloth during this task.
Materials and equipment required:
Card # 23 Spinner hardware, TorqueSeal inspection putty, small torque wrench
Fit the propeller
Sand both sides of each spinner mounting plate flat in the flange/propeller mounting area.

Turn the engine so that one set of flywheel magnets are at the top (circled above left). This
will ensure that the propeller will stop in a horizontal position. Fit the guide bushes from the
back of the propeller flange and fit the rear spinner mounting plate over them with the cupped
face towards the rear. Fit the propeller so that the upper blade is closest to the 11 oclock
position when viewed from the front of the engine. Tap the bolts through with a soft hammer.

Fit the front spinner mounting plate with the cupped face towards the front, followed by the
machined aluminium mounting plate.
On each bolt place pairs of Belleville washers in a cup to cup arrangement: ( ) ( ) (Jabiru
prop: 4 pairs, Sensenich prop: 3 pairs) followed by a single flat washer and a Nyloc nut.
Tighten the nuts until they are just firm and then torque each nut (Jabiru prop: 7 ft/lbs or 9.5
Nm, Sensenich prop: 12ft/lbs or 16.25 Nm) working in a diagonal or criss-cross pattern.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller and spinner
There must be more than 1 threads and less than 3 threads showing through the Nyloc nuts.
Pack behind the nuts with flat washers as required. Recheck the torque settings, applying a
slow, steady pressure on the torque wrench until the correct torque value is reached.
Add engine oil
At this time the engine should have the correct grade of oil added (2200 = 2.3l, 3300 = 3.5l)
refer to the engine manual for the grade. Pour slowly to minimize the chance of spillage and
refit the dipstick. Remove the Do Not Run: Contains No Oil tag from the engine.
Check and set the propeller blade tracking
It is important that the tips of both propeller blades track exactly in line with each other as the
propeller rotates tracking must be adjusted to
very close tolerances, preferably less than
0.25mm, in order to minimize engine and/or
airframe vibration.
To check the tracking you will need to make up
an adjustable pointer (example shown arrowed at
right) that can be clamped to the nose gear and
placed against the tip of the propeller blade as a
reference point (shown circled at right).
Rotate the propeller and check that each tip is
just touching the pointer. If there is any variation
then the technique to be used is as follows:
Coarse adjustment: if the difference between blades is greater than 1 to 1.5mm then a shim
will need to be made and placed between the propeller and the propeller flange.
Remove the propeller. Cut a shim from a sheet of
standard 80gsm paper (photocopier paper) as
shown at right (use the discarded universal
propeller flange as a pattern) and fit on the
propeller flange on the side of rearmost blade.
Re-fit the propeller and re-torque all the nuts to
the correct values, working in a diagonal or crisscross pattern, and check the tracking.
Add more shims if required. Note that a shim cut from a manila folder will correct a 2.5-3mm
tracking error. Make fine adjustments as described next:
Fine adjustment: if the variation between blades is 1mm or less then apply additional torque
of no more than 2 ft/lbs to the 3 nuts on the side of the front-most blade and check the
tracking.
When the blade tracking is less than 0.25mm, loosen off all of the nuts and then re-torque
them all to the correct values, working in a
diagonal or criss-cross pattern.
When blade tracking is correct and all the nuts
have been set to correct torque, apply a dab of
Torque Seal inspection putty to the top of each
nut as shown at right. This gives a clear visual
indication that no further work is required.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller and spinner
Pre-fit the spinner
Test fit the spinner it can be fitted in 2 positions, so try it each way and use the position
where the holes all line up the best while giving an even gap around the base of the propeller.

When the mounting position has been decided, mark each component with a permanent
marker as shown above so that if there is any need to remove the spinner or propeller all the
parts can be refitted in the same position relative to each other.
Fit the spinner in place and line it up with the back of the rear mounting plate and then push a
5/32 pop rivet though all of the holes that line up. Working on one remaining hole at a time,
drill a 5/32 hole through the spinner and the rear mounting plate and temporarily place a
5/32 pop rivet in each hole to keep the spinner and the mounting plate in alignment.
Work your way around all 6 holes in this manner. Repeat the process for the 6 holes in the
front mounting plate. The spinner should resemble a porcupine at this stage, with pop rivets
protruding from the 12 mounting holes. Remove the pop rivets and the spinner and drill all the
holes in the spinner out to 3/16 to provide clearance for the screw threads.
Countersink each hole so that the Tinneman washers will sit flush against the spinner.
Fit the captive nuts to the inside of the spinner mounting plates - use the captive nut itself
(a complete captive nut assembly is shown below left) as a jig (below right) to drill the rivet
holes thread the screw part way through the captive nut from the back and fit the exposed
end of the thread into the hole, then drill the 2 x 3/32 rivet holes.

Countersink the rivet holes just enough to make a countersunk 3/32 rivet sit flush and fix the
captive nuts in place and then enlarge the 5/32 holes in the mounting plates to 3/16 to
provide clearance for the screw threads.
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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller and spinner
Fit the spinner
Fit the spinner using 5/32 countersunk screws and Tinnerman washers.

Use a long sanding block to sand the rear mounting plate flush with the rear of the spinner.

Reassembly
Refit the spark plugs refer to the engine manual for the torque settings. Remember to fit the
CHT sensor under the left rear spark plug.
Refit the spark plug leads. Each cylinder pair can only be fitted to the correct cylinder.
Push each spark plug cap until it clicks fully home onto the spark plug end.
Refit the ram air cooling ducts: fit and tighten the tappet cover screws and clip the spring
retainers to the cylinders.
Check that everything inside the cowling is as it should be all wiring secure, hose clamps
tight, scat hoses all tight, etc.
Refit the top cowling. Fit the piano hinge pins first. The cowl fittings come in 2 lengths: the 3
shorter ones go across the rear of the cowling while the 2 longer ones go each side of the prop
hub.

This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Firewall forward>Fit propeller and spinner task.

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Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit wheel spats

Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit wheel spats

Objectives of this task:
To final fit the spats or wheel fairings to the main wheels and the nose wheel.
Main wheel spats
Each main wheel spat is held in place by a single bolt on the outside of the spat that fits into

the axle extension and 4 screws on the inside that fit to the spat mounting plate.

Fit each spat into position over the wheel and secure with an axle bolt and a flat washer and
then fit the inside 3/32 machine screws and Tinnerman washers to the backing plate.
Fit the rubber blanking plug to the tire pressure inspection hole on the outside of each spat.
Nose wheel spat
Support the front of the aircraft so that the nose wheel is off the ground and remove the front
axle and wheel. Fit the front of the spat over the yoke and refit the front wheel and the axle,
passing the axle through the spat, yoke and wheel as shown below. Fit a flat washer to each
side of the axle. Lower the nose wheel back to the ground.
Fit the castellated axle nut and tighten to safety then secure the nut with a lock pin. Screw the
spat to the yoke with a short 3/32 machine screw and Tinnerman washer to each side of the
spat (arrowed in red in the photo below left).

Fit the rear section of the spat to the front section with 8 x 3/32 machine screws and
Tinnerman washers as shown in the photo above right. Fit the rubber blanking plug to the tire
pressure inspection hole on the left hand side of the spat.
This completes the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit wheel spats task.
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Post-Paint>Wings>Install aileron cables

Post-Paint>Wings>Install aileron cables

Objectives of this task:
To install the aileron cables in the wings. The cable is tied to a pre-installed drawstring and
carefully drawn through the wing ribs. This task requires two people: one person to pull the
drawstring and a helper to feed the cable into the wing.
Place the cable
The labelled end of the cable is the end that goes inside the cabin, so the unlabelled end is the
end that goes out through the wing to the aileron. This task will describe feeding the cable in
from the wing root and out of the aileron access hole.
Fit a rod end to the unlabelled end of the cable the rounded end will aid the passage of the
cable through the high-density foam ribs and push the inner cable all the way in towards the
labelled end of the cable. This will make the pulled end of the cable shorter and thus it will be
more flexible to follow the curved path inside the wing (refer to the second photo below).

There is a drawstring inside in the wing with extra string coiled around a stick at the aileron
end that will be visible through the aileron cable inspection opening. Loosen the drawstring
and check that it can be moved freely, then pull a short length out of the wing root (circled
above) and tie it firmly through the rod end. Wrap cloth tape around the cable end from the
rod end all the way back to the outer cable: this will ease the cable through the wing ribs.
The aileron cable runs along the rear of
the wing and then curves around and
back and emerges at the aileron drive
arm position as shown in the drawing
excerpt of the outboard end of the wing
at right:

Front of wing

Aileron cable

Have your helper feed the cable into

the wing while you pull gently on the
drawstring through the aileron cable
inspection opening. Work slowly and
do not apply too much pressure but
rather move the cable carefully and shake it if it seems to catch at any time.
It will help if your helper can slowly rotate the outer cable while you ease the cable around
the curve at the outboard end of the wing. Do not pull strongly on the drawstring: if you do
you will only succeed in cutting the string into the foam ribs and wedging the cable, which
will make it extremely difficult to complete the task.
Feed the cable through the wing until it can be pulled through the aileron cable inspection
opening, then discard the cloth tape and string and remove the rod end.
Push the cable back into the aileron cable inspection opening and pull the end of it out of the
aileron cable slot in the upper surface of the wing.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Install aileron cables
Connect the aileron cable
The cable is held to a strengthened rib inside the wing by a saddle clamp and 2 x AN3 bolts
and Nyloc nuts. Access is from the aileron cable inspection opening and the 38mm hole
beside it: the bolts are fed through from the back of the rib (through the 38mm hole) and then
the clamp backing plate goes against the rib, then the cable and then the saddle bracket with
the aligning indentation fitting into the slot on the outer cable and the assembly is held in
place with Nyloc nuts. Check that the cable is correctly positioned and tighten both nuts
firmly. Mark each nut with TorqueSeal or similar.
Fit the inspection cover
At this time you can fit the clear acrylic inspection cover to the inspection opening.

Fit the threaded fairing sockets to the inspection cover and then position the cover inside the
wing and fix in place with 8-32 button head screws, all as shown in the drawing above.
This completes the Pre-Paint>Wings>Install aileron cables task.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit stall warning

Post-Paint>Wings>Fit stall warning

Objectives of this task:
To fit the stall warning device to the left wing.
Materials required:
Card #6: Stall warning
5-minute Araldite and flock
Mark and drill the wing root
Mark a position in the left-hand wing root 75mm back from the leading edge and drill a
10mm hole at that location in line with the wing attach bolt hole in the front lug.
The clear plastic stall warning tube will enter the wing here.
Assemble the stall warning
Use 5-Minute Araldite and flock to fix the aluminium stall
warning funnel to the plate, about 4mm back from the
front edge, and then cut the stainless steel gauze to size
and flock it by the edges to the front of the funnel as
shown at right. Leave to cure, then round the front edges
of the plate carefully. Roughen the sides and bottom of the
assembly.
Mark and cut the leading edge
Measure out 1195mm from the wing root of the left-hand
wing and mark the location. Use cloth tape to protect the
paint on the leading edge of the wing during this step.
Using the drawing on the next page, locate the vertical
centre of the stall warning aperture and mark the location.
Recheck your measurements carefully and drill a pilot
hole, then widen the hole to 10mm and file carefully out
to a rectangle 12mm high and 19mm wide. The top of the
opening should be precisely on the leading edge of the
wing. Final size the hole to fit the stall warning assembly.
Hold the lip at the bottom of the assembly with pliers
while fitting be careful not to drop it inside the wing.
Fit the stall warning assembly
Use a steel rod to feed the plastic tube in from the wing
root and through the wing ribs until it can be seen though
the hole in the leading edge, then pull the tube through
using a wire hook and superglue and lock wire the tube to
the rear of the stall warning funnel.
Apply 5-Minute Araldite and flock to the bottom and
sides of the stall warning assembly and carefully slide it
back into the wing until the gauze is flush with the leading
edge of the wing and leave to cure. Remove the protective
cloth tape.
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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit stall warning

This completes the Post-Paint>Wings>Fit stall warning task.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting

Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting

Objectives of this task:
To prepare the wings prior to fitting them to the fuselage.
Materials required:
Resin and flock
Card #16 Flaps
Prepare the flaps
Run a 3/16 drill though the bolt hole in each flap hanger to clear any paint and debris out of
the holes. Clean out the 1/4 holes in the flap pivot arms in a similar manner.
The flaps will be fitted to the wings after the wings have been fitted to the fuselage.
Fit the ailerons
Hold the aileron in place and slide the hinge pins though each hinge, starting from the side of
the hinge where the pin retaining slot was filed in the Pre-Paint>Wings>Fit ailerons task.
Fit the pin retainers and hold them in place with a 5/32 machine thread screw.
Place the ailerons in the neutral position and place a length of cloth tape over the top surface
of the wing and the aileron. This will prevent the ailerons from dropping when the wing is
turned right way up.
Turn the wings over so that they are right way up.

Fit the aileron cable rod end to the aileron drive arm with an AN3 bolt fitted through the drive
arm, then an AN960-416 (3/16) flat washer, then the rod end followed by an AN960-515
(1/4) flat washer and a Nyloc nut as shown in the photos above.
Tighten the Nyloc nuts to safety and mark with Torqueseal.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting
Fit the fuel gauges
Remove the masking tape from over the fuel gauge boss in the wing root and clean the area.
Test fit each fuel gauge feed the float unit into the wing tank
and hold the gauge in place with 2 screws. Check the empty
indication the needle should sit slightly below the E or
Empty mark as shown in the photo at top right.
If it does not then the gauge will need to be adjusted.
The gauge needle is driven by a magnet that is turned by the
action of a float that sits inside the fuel tank. The gauge can be
disassembled by pulling the black nylon float drive out of the
aluminium gauge body and the magnet can be twisted slightly
by hand. See the photos below for detail of the gauge unit.

Gauge unit assembled

Float
drive

Magnet

Gauge
body

The gauge can then be reassembled and rechecked (and readjusted if necessary) until it reads
correctly.
The nylon drive unit barrel should be a firm fit into the gauge
body: if the fit is not entirely to your satisfaction then a smear of
Loctite 577 Sealant should be applied to the barrel.
When the gauges are fitted each of the 4 retaining screws and
the top and bottom gauge face screws should have a small drop
of Loctite 242 Threadlocker applied before fitting.
Carefully bend the electrical spade terminals out so that they are
parallel to the face of the gauge as shown circled at right.

Fit the fuel tank connector blocks

Fit the tank connector blocks through the slots in each side of the fuselage and push each
connector block fully forward in the slot.
Use the supplied layer plate as shown in the
photo at right to hold the connector blocks in
the fully forward position and fix to the
fuselage with 2 x 8G stainless steel selftapping screws.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting
Fuel lines and fittings

There are 3 fuel lines that need to be connected in the wing root: the bottom 2 carry fuel to the
header tank while the top line is the breather for the header tank. These fuel lines each need to
be fitted and then cut to an approximate length of 300mm behind the rear of the wing.
All 3 lines exit the wing root towards the rear
and both of the fuel lines will have a spring
fitted to prevent any chance of a kink
developing when the lines are bent to the rear,
while the breather line faces rearwards already.
Fit each fuel line to the tank fitting and secure
with a hose clamp. Slide a 100mm length of
spring over each fuel line, push all the way up
to the hose clamp and fix in place with silicone
sealer at the hose clamp end as shown in the
photo at right.
Label the other end of each fuel line with tape
as shown at right. This is essential because
once the wing has been fitted it will be very
difficult to determine which line is which if it
has not been labelled.
B = breather line
F = front fuel line
R = rear fuel line

Fit the fuel gauge windows

Locate the clear, round fuel gauge windows and Superglue them over the outside of the fuel
gauge holes in the wing root area of the fuselage.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting
Fit the vent tubes to the fuel filler caps
The fuel filler caps came partly assembled on the card and were fitted to the fuel filler
opening on the wing in the Pre-Paint>Wings>Prepare wing root task to keep dirt out of the
wing tanks, all that remains now is for you to fit the vent tubes to the fuel caps.

Fuel cap

Vent tube

Vent ball

Vent cap

Working on one wing at a time, remove the fuel cap and place a clean cloth or a piece of tape
over the fuel filler opening so that no dirt or debris can fall into the tank during this process.
Start by carefully cleaning away any paint from the top of the fuel cap and in particular from
the vent tube hole in the top of the cap.

Use a file to cut 4 notches each 1mm deep into the top of the vent tube. Remove all burrs.
Fit the notched end of the vent tube to the vent cap the vent tube should be a snug fit into
the vent cap, use fine sandpaper if required to size the tube to a good fit. Now, working upside
down, drop the small white vent ball into the vent cap and use a smear of Loctite 620 to fix
the vent tube into the vent cap. Make sure that nothing has caught the vent ball the ball
should still rattle in the vent cap when the assembled tube and cap is shaken.
Fit the vent tube to the hole in the top of the cap the vent tube should be a snug fit into the
hole, use fine sandpaper if required to size the tube and then fix it in place with Loctite 620
with the breather holes in the vent cap facing towards the outside of the fuel cap.
This completes the Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting task.
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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit wings

Post-Paint>Wings>Fit wings
Objectives of this task:
To final fit the wings to the fuselage. This is a repeat of the Pre-Paint task but because you
have already pre-fitted the wings they can now be fitted into place more easily. This task will
discuss the fitting of one wing at a time.
In our factory we use 3 people for this task, so ask 2 friends over to help you.
Do not try to do this task with less than 3 people or you risk dropping the wing.
Preparation
Place 2 trestles beside the fuselage and lay
the wings on them.
Fit the bottom of the strut to the lower
fuselage mount and secure with an AN17515A bolt inserted from the front and an
AN960-516 washer MS20365-528 nut. Rest
the outboard end of the strut against a saw
stool as shown at right.
Lay the AN4-14A wing attach bolts and
some AN960-416 washers on top of the
fuselage where you can easily reach them.
Fit the wing

One person holds the outboard end of the wing while the other 2 hold the front and back of
the wing root as shown in the photo above.
Carefully walk the wing in to the fuselage, feeding the aileron cables through the fuselage
holes and feeding the fuel lines, stall warning tube and any electrical wiring, and guide the
wing attach lugs on the wing into the aluminium wing attach brackets on the fuselage.
The fit between the wing attach lugs on the wing into the aluminium wing attach brackets will
be tight and it may take some careful positioning of the wing to get them to fit the outboard
end of the wing may need to be moved forward or backwards to get the correct alignment.
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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit wings
Each AN4-14A wing attach bolt should be fitted with one AN960-416 washer under the head
of the bolt and one AN960-416 washer under the nut.
It will be necessary to gently tap the AN4-14A bolts into place tap in until the head of the
bolt is seated hard against the aluminium wing attach bracket and then put an AN960-416
washer and a MS20365-428 nut and tighten up until the nut is in safety: there should be at
least 1 threads showing though the nut but not more than 3 threads showing.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THESE BOLTS. They should be just tight enough to prevent
rotation. Over tightening may result in failure of the wing attach lugs.
Fit the strut

When both wing attach bolts are in place, lift the strut up to the underside of the wing and fit
the strut to the wing with an AN175-15A bolt inserted from the front and an AN960-516
washer MS20365-528 nut and tighten up until the nut is in safety: there should be at least 1
threads showing though the nut but not more than 3 threads showing.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THESE BOLTS. They should be just tight enough to prevent
rotation. Over tightening may result in failure of the strut attach lugs.
Repeat the fitting process for the other wing.
Fit the stall warning horn
Trim the stall warning tube to length and fit the stall warning horn to the end of the tube.
Hold the stall warning horn to the cabin upholstery with Velcro strips.
Test by sucking on the stall warning in the leading edge of the wing until you hear the horn.
This completes the Post-Paint>Wings>Fit wings task.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Connect ailerons

Post-Paint>Wings>Connect ailerons
Objectives of this task:
To connect the aileron cables and set the aileron deflections. One person can do this task but it
is much easier with 2 people: one to position the ailerons and one to make the adjustments.
Fit the outer cables
Aileron cables

Wedge pins
R clips

Aileron brackets

Feed each aileron cable through the same

side bracket in the seat back: the left-hand
cable though the left-hand bracket and the
right-hand cable through the right-hand
bracket.
Fit the groove in the outer cable into the
shaped hole and push the cable forward so
that the cable seats into the bracket, then
fit the retaining wedge pin in behind the
cable, push the wedge pin firmly down
and secure it in the bracket with the
retaining spring clip as shown at right.

Aileron cable
Wedge pin
R clip

Detail view of the aileron cable in the bracket

Set the ailerons to the neutral position

Set the ailerons to the neutral position: a straightedge held under the wing must touch the
front and back of the wing and the back of the aileron as shown arrowed in the photo above.
Keep the straightedge handy this setting will need rechecking several times.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Connect ailerons
Set the aileron cable lengths
Loosen off the lock nuts on the rod ends at both ends of each aileron cable.
Set the control stick so that it is centred laterally/from side to side.
Check that both ailerons are still set to the neutral position and then carefully adjust the rod
ends on each aileron cable by hand so that an AN3 bolt can be fitted though the rod end and
the aileron bellcrank on each side.

Aileron cable
rod ends

Aileron
bellcrank
Aileron
stop bolt

Rear of
console

It may be necessary to adjust the cable length at both ends of the cable, and ideally the rod
ends should be adjusted to be close to equal with the same amount of thread showing at each
end of the cable. Work on one side at a time and check that the aileron is still neutral and the
stick is still centred, then move to the other side.
Take your time with this step: it is easy to bump the control stick slightly while testing cable
lengths and it may be necessary to repeat the process several times until both ailerons are set
to neutral and the cable lengths are both correct.
Ensure that the inboard end of the aileron cables are connected to the same side of the aileron
bellcrank at the rear of the control column: the left wing cable must connect to the left side of
the bellcrank and the right wing cable must connect to the right side of the bellcrank.
When both aileron cable lengths have been set with the ailerons in the neutral position and the
stick centered, fit the rod ends to the aileron bellcrank with an AN3 bolt. Fit an AN960-515
(1/4) flat washer, then the rod end followed by an AN960-416 (3/16) flat washer, then the
bellcrank, another AN960-416 (3/16) flat washer and a Nyloc nut.
Tighten the Nyloc nuts to safety and mark each nut with a dab of TorqueSeal.
Tighten the rod end locknuts at each end of each aileron cable firmly and mark each locknut
with a dab of TorqueSeal.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Connect ailerons
Set the aileron deflections
Once the aileron cables have been adjusted to length with the ailerons in the neutral position
and the stick centred, the full travel deflections can be set.

In the kit there is an aileron deflection template. Place this template on top of the wing and set
the aileron to the full UP travel deflection as shown in the photo above (note the 3 arrowed
points where the template touches) and then adjust the stop bolt on the aileron bellcrank so
that the bolt just touches the eccentric stop at full deflection.
The eccentric stop that you fitted in the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls
task can be rotated if required to give an equal length to the stop bolts.
Repeat the process for the other aileron and tighten the stop bolt locknuts.

Final check
Recheck each step:
Check that the outer cables are firmly fixed into the brackets by the wedge pins and that the
wedge pins are held by the R clips;
Centre the control stick and check that both ailerons are in the neutral position. Make minor
adjustments as required;
Check that the aileron stops are set correctly for full deflection: when the control stick is at
full left deflection the left aileron should touch the aileron deflection template at all 3 points
and when the control stick is at full right deflection the right aileron should touch the aileron
deflection template at all 3 points. Make minor adjustments as required;
When all of the settings are correct check all 4 rod end lock nuts (2 on each cable) and the 2
aileron stop lock nuts for tightness and mark each one with a dab of Torqueseal.
This completes the Post-Paint>Wings>Connect ailerons task.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Connect wing tanks

Post-Paint>Wings>Connect wing tanks

Objectives of this task:
To connect the fuel lines and earth the wing tanks to the fuel system.
Size and connect the fuel lines

Breather

Front pickup
Back pickup

Hold the fuel lines under the connector block and cut each line to length so that they can be
fitted to the connector block as shown above. There must be no kinks in any fuel line.
As you can see from the photos above and at
right (taken from the Pre-Paint>Fuselage>
Interior>Fuel system task) the back fuel
pickup goes to the inside ferrule, the front
fuel pickup goes to the middle ferrule and the
breather goes to the outside ferrule.

Left

Right

Back

Working from the inside line to the outside,

hold each fuel line in place with a hose clamp
and tighten each clamp firmly.

Front

Breather

Route the earth wires

Run a length of white aviation wire from the front of each wing, through the aileron hole in
the fuselage and into the top of the fuel line
sheathing from each wing tank. Run the wire
all the way down into the header tank
enclosure and leave enough length to connect
to the common earth post in the floor of the
enclosure.
Crimp a red ring terminal to the bottom of
each wire and fit to the common earth post in
the header tank enclosure (arrowed at right)
the same earth post that connects the earth
from the fuel pump and the quick-drain
fitting on the header tank. The top of each
earth wire will be connected to the quickdrain fittings on each wing after the wing
root fairings have been fitted in the PostPaint>Wings>Fit fairings task.

Common
earth post

This completes the Post-Paint>Wings>Connect wing tanks task.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit flaps

Post-Paint>Wings>Fit flaps
Objectives of this task:
To fit the wing flaps to the wings and adjust their deflection. We use 2 people in the factory to
carry out this task and we recommend that you do the same as the flap is too long for one
person to handle and there is a risk of damaging the painted surface of the flap and the wing.
Materials required:
Wotan cloth tape to hold the flaps up while adjusting the flap push rod lengths.
Fit the flap push rods to the flaps
Fit a rod end and plain locking nut to one end
of each flap push rod and tighten the lock
nuts firmly. Lay the flaps upside down on
trestles and fit the flap push rods to the
inboard end of each flap.
Working through the access hole in the flap,
feed an AN3-13A bolt with an AN960-416
(3/16) flat washer under the head from the
inside of the flap through the drive post.

Drive
post

Access
hole

Fit 3 x AN960-416 (3/16) flat washers, then

the rod end and an AN960-515 (1/4) flat
washer and a Nyloc nut as shown in the
photo at right. Tighten the nut to safety.
The flap push rods should now be centred in
the slot in the leading edge of the flap.

Flap
push rod
Inboard end of inverted flap showing push rod attachment

Fit the flaps to the wings

Each flap post bolt hole has a short length of Bundy tube spacer fitted inside (tip: a smear of
grease will hold the spacer in place while fitting) and the flap post fits into the flap hanger and
is then secured with an AN3-8A bolt.
Working on one flap at a time, fit the flap to the wing with the AN3 bolts with a 3/16 flat
washer under the head of each bolt. Fit a 3/16 flat washer and Nyloc nut and tighten each nut
to safety. Check that the flap can be extended and retracted by hand, taking care not to scratch
the fuselage or the side window when the flap is near full deflection.

Touching
here

Gap equal to 2
mixing sticks here

Touching
here

Hold a straightedge under the wing and flap with a gap equal to 2 mixing sticks at the rear of
the wing and touching at the front and back, all as shown in the photo above.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit flaps
Tape the flap into position with a length of
cloth tape as shown arrowed in the photo at
right.
Fit and set the other flap in the same manner.
The flaps are now in the fully retracted
position and are ready for the flap push rods
to be connected to the flap drive arms in the
next step.

Connect and adjust the flaps

Apply power to the flap motor and extend
the actuating shaft fully as shown at right.
Fit a rod end with a plain locking nut to the
free end of the flap push rods and screw the
rod end into the flap push rods until the hole
in the rod end lines up with the hole in the
flap drive arm, then fit the rod end into the
clevis in the flap drive arm as shown below
right with an AN3-10A bolt with a 3/16
washer under the head of the bolt and
another 3/16 flat washer and a Nyloc nut
and tighten the nut to safety. Tighten the
plain locking nut firmly.
Repeat the process for the other flap. At this
point the flaps have been fitted and adjusted.
Apply power to the flap motor and extend
the flap to the first position and check both
flaps for clearance from the fuselage.
Have someone watch each flap as you
continue to extend the flaps to the second
full flap position and check each flap for
clearance from the fuselage until the full flap
position is reached.
If you set your flap end clearances correctly in the Pre-Paint>Wings>Test fit wings task there
should be no problems, but if the flaps do touch the fuselage then you will need to remove the
flap and cut the end of the flap away to maintain a 5mm clearance from the fuselage.
This completes the Post-Paint>Wings>Fit flaps task.

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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit fairings

Post-Paint>Wings>Fit fairings
Objectives of this task:
To fit the final trim: specifically the wing root fairings, the upper strut fairings, the lower
strut/main gear recess fairings and the wheel spats.
Wing root fairing
The wing root fairing comes in 2 parts: upper
and lower. Fit the lower fairing first tape
the fairing into place with the fairing just
touching the fuselage and then screw the
fairing to the wing with 5 x evenly-spaced
6G stainless steel self-tapping screws.
Fit the fuel block fairing to the lower fairing
with 2 x 6G stainless steel self-tapping
screws.
Fit the top fairing with the front return
overlapping the lower fairing and screw in
place in the same manner.
Repeat the process for the other wing.
Refer to the photos at right for details of
placement and screw spacing.

Quick-drain
fitting
Earthing
connection

Fuel block
fairing

Wing tank earth

Fit a length of lock wire to the quick-drain
fitting under the wing and long enough to
reach the rear fairing screw and twist it.
Crimp a red ring connector to the lock wire.
Trim the white earth wire that you fitted in
the Post-Paint>Wings>Connect wing tanks
task so that it reaches the rear fairing screw
and crimp a red ring connector to it. Fit both
ring connectors under the rear fairing screw
and tighten the screw firmly.
Repeat the process for the other wing.

Earth
connection

Lock wire
earth

Strut to wing fairing

Fit the front section of the fairing into place with 6G stainless steel self-tapping screws as
shown in the photos above. Repeat the process for the other wing.
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Post-Paint>Wings>Fit fairings
Lower strut/main gear fairing

Right hand side strut/main gear fairing from below (top photo) and side on (above)

Start by tucking the brake lines up into the main gear recess and zip tying them to the top rear
of the main gear legs. Connect the pitot line from the right hand strut to the instrument panel
line with a blue water trap connector and tuck the pitot line up into the main gear recess.
Fit the right hand section first: tuck the blue water trap connector into the fairing and then fit
the fairing into place and hold it there temporarily with some cloth tape while you fit the
5/32 machine screws and washers, then fit the left hand section in the same manner.
This completes the Post-Paint>Wings>Fit fairings task.
CONGRATULATIONS, you have completed construction!!
Now, on to Testing.

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Testing>General

Testing>General
Here we are: the Construction phase has been completed and the task in hand is to thoroughly
check the aircraft in preparation for flight and then, finally, test fly the aircraft for first time.
Many tasks need to be completed prior to the first flight:

The aircraft must be carefully Weighed and Balanced and, if necessary, rebalanced to
suit your intended loadings and the information recorded in the Owners Manual;

The Rigging (the deflection of the control surfaces) must be rechecked each
deflection was set as part of the relevant Post-Paint tasks so this is essentially
confirming your earlier work and making minor adjustments if required;

The Fuel Gauges will need to be calibrated so that you will have an accurate indication
of fuel quantity;

You will need to affix the required placards and decals as listed in Section 2.8 of the
Owners Manual;

You will need to fit the Registration Markings required by your countrys aviation
authority;

An extensive Pre-Flight Checklist must be completed: this checklist runs to 15 pages

and to complete it correctly will take you several days;

And finally the Test Flight, which will require a disciplined approach and which
should be conducted by a suitably experienced pilot.

Resist any temptation to rush these final tasks; it is extremely important that all checks be
completed correctly before flight is attempted. Failure to do so could have severe
consequences, so take your time and be very thorough!
So there is still quite a bit of work to do, but you are within a week or 2 of finishing your
build, depending of course on how much time you can devote to these tasks.
This would be a good time to have a clean-up of both the aircraft and your workshop:

Clean the aircraft interior: remove anything that is not part of the aircraft (tools, rags,
sandpaper, etc) and vacuum out any dust and dirt.

Wash the exterior with clean water with a little soap (most car washing products are
suitable) and chamois dry.

Clean the windscreen and windows carefully and if necessary use some Novus
products (refer to Post-Paint>Fuselage>Fit doors for details) to clear any minor
marks or scratching.

Clean your work area thoroughly and organise your tools.

Locate your deflection templates: you will need them shortly.

OK, lets get on with it the end is in sight!

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Testing>Weight and balance

Testing>Weight and balance

Objectives of this task:
To calculate the Empty Weight and the balance point or Centre of Gravity of the aircraft.
The Empty Weight Trim Index is calculated from these values and then various loading
scenarios are be tested to see if any rebalancing of the aircraft is required. Finally all values
are entered into the Aircraft Empty Weight Record in Section 6.2 of the Owners Manual.
Equipment required:
3 bathroom scales capable of weighing up to 150Kg
Plumb bob and string line, set square
Builders type spirit level
Chalk and a builders chalk line to mark the reference positions onto the hangar floor
Prepare the equipment
Before you do anything else, check your scales for accuracy: use some objects of a known
weight, such as a few 20Kg bags of cement to see if your scales are reading correctly at
around the 100Kg range of the scale.
If there is a problem then either adjust the scale or, if this is not possible, note how much the
scale over/under reads and apply this as a correction to the weight displayed.
Prepare the aircraft
Remove all surplus items from the cockpit: tools, clothing, etc. and clean the interior of the
aircraft with a vacuum cleaner. Clean the exterior of the aircraft: remove all dust and dirt with
a damp cloth. Check that the engine oil is full to the bottom of the hatched marking on the
dipstick. Turn the fuel tap on the console to the OFF position (lever facing up).
Fill the header tank with fuel but leave zero fuel remaining in the wing tanks.
The aircraft should contain everything required for flight except fuel in the wing tanks.
Reference points
In this task you will be measuring the horizontal distances from the Datum, which is the
leading edge of the wing, to the main wheel axles and the front wheel axle.
Each reference point will be marked onto the hangar floor and then measured.
Mark and measure
Refer to the drawing on the next page for colour-coded details of the line markings.
Use a chalk line to mark 2 lines at least as long as the aircraft on the hangar floor in a right
angle cross. Roll the aircraft directly along one line (coloured blue in the drawing) until the
main wheels are directly over the second line (coloured green in the drawing).
The main wheel axles must be directly over the second (green) line: use a square or a plumb
line from the axle bolt centres in the main wheel spats to check this and move the aircraft as
required. Leave the brakes off and chock the main wheels when the position is correct.
Mark the Datum line (coloured purple in the drawing) on the floor by means of a plumb line
hung from the leading edge of each wing, using a point about 300mm outboard of each main
wheel. Join both Datum line marks and mark a line across the floor with your chalk line.
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Testing>Weight and balance

Mark a point on the floor directly under the centre of the front axle bolt on each side: use a
square or a plumb line from the axle bolts in the front wheel spat to check this.
Now measure the distance from each side of the front axle (the red line above) to the Datum
line: these are distances A and B. add them both together and divide by 2 to get the average
distance this will compensate if the front wheel is not set exactly straight ahead. Enter the
distance as a negative value in the Distance to Datum column on the chart on the next page.
Measure the distance from the left main wheel axle to the Datum line and enter the value at
distance C in the chart on the next page. Do the same for the right main wheel (distance D).

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Testing>Weight and balance
Weigh the aircraft
The weighing part of this procedure should be conducted in a closed hangar with a level floor.
Because the aircraft is very light any wind will adversely affect the weights, so a closed
building, without any doors being opened during the procedure, is required.
Place a set of scales under each wheel and level the aircraft: use a builders level across the
lower door sills to check for lateral level, and along each lower door sill to check for
longitudinal level. Pack under wheels as required to level the aircraft.
Record the weight of each wheel under the Weight column in the chart below.
Note: if you have access to only 1 set of scales you may weigh each wheel individually,
however you will need to pack under the other wheels to level the aircraft before each weight
is recorded.
Calculate the Empty Weight and Centre of Gravity
Sum all of the items in the Weight column and put the total at the bottom of the column.
All distances aft of the Datum are considered positive and all distances forward of the Datum
are considered negative in the calculation that we are about to do in this step.
Calculate the Moment of each wheel: starting with the nose wheel, multiply the Weight by the
Distance to Datum and record the result in the Moment column. Note that the Distance to
Datum value for the nose wheel will be a negative value and the result will also be negative.
Multiply the Weight by the Distance to Datum and record the result in the Moment column for
each main wheel. These results will both be positive values.
Sum all of the items in the Moment column and put the total at the bottom of the column.
Divide the total Moment by the total Weight and record the result in the red box at the bottom
of the chart this is the distance aft of the leading edge where the empty aircraft will balance
and is referred to as the Empty Aircraft Arm.
Item

Weight
(kg)

Nose wheel
Left main wheel
Right main wheel

Distance to Datum
(mm)
(A+B)/2 -

Moment
(kg/mm)

=
-

(C) +

(D) +

Moment / Weight

Column totals:
Empty Aircraft Arm:

mm aft of Datum

Calculate the Empty Weight Trim Index

Multiply the Empty Aircraft Weight by the Empty Aircraft Arm and divide the result by 1000
to arrive at the Empty Weight Trim Index.
This value can be used in the Load and Balance Worksheets in Section 6 of the Owners
Manual.

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Testing>Weight and balance
Examples of calculation
Below is an example calculation showing typical values:
Item

Weight
(kg)
75

Nose wheel
Left main wheel

Distance to Datum
(mm)
- 780

Moment
(kg/mm)
- 58,500

108

+ 475

+ 51,300

Right main wheel

108

+ 475

+ 51,300

Column totals:

291

Moment / Weight

44,100

Empty Aircraft Arm

151.55

mm aft of Datum

Empty Weight Trim Index: [(291 x 151.55) / 1000] = 44.1.

Rebalancing the aircraft

You must now use the Load and Balance Worksheets in Section 6 of the Owners Manual to
test all of the likely loading scenarios for your intended operations and see if any fall outside
of the envelope.
For factory built aircraft we are required to use the CASA-approved standard passenger
weight (currently 86kg) to calculate loadings, but as you are the builder you may choose to
use the actual weights of yourself and your regular passenger(s) along with items that you
intend to carry with you, such as tie downs, toolkit, suitcases, camping equipment and so on.
If it seems possible that an intended loading could exceed, for example, the forward limit,
then you would need to consider adding some ballast to the rear of the aircraft.
If any rear ballast is required the preferred method is to add it in the form of lead shot mixed
with resin to the ventral fin. (Note: It is unusual to need forward ballast if there is an
intended loading that would require forward ballast it will usually be very close to MTOW
anyway and should very probably be avoided all together.)
Assuming that rear ballast is required you would measure the arm of the ballast station/
location from the Datum and calculate the weight of ballast required, adjust the calculations to
obtain a revised Empty Aircraft Weight, Empty Aircraft Arm and Empty Weight Trim Index
and then retest all of the likely loading scenarios for your intended operations and see if any
still fall outside of the envelope.
Once you are satisfied that the majority of the likely loading scenarios for your intended
operations will fall inside of the envelope, you may physically add the ballast and repeat the
weighing procedure and then record the revised values in the Aircraft Empty Weight Record
in Section 6.2 of the Owners Manual.
This completes the Testing>Weight and balance task.

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Testing>Rigging check

Testing>Rigging check
Objectives of this task:
To perform a final check of all control surface deflections and make any adjustments that may
be required prior to the first flight.
Each control surface has had its deflections set as part of the appropriate fitting task, so this
final check is just to verify that nothing was missed during assembly.
Materials required:
Deflection templates for all control surfaces
Straightedge 1 metre long
Rudder
Check the rudder travel

Tape the rudder template over the rear of the empennage.

Place a saw stool under the front of the fuselage to lift the
nose wheel off the ground and then adjust the rudder
cable length so that the rudder sits on the centre mark
with the rudder pedals centred and all level.
Use the rudder pedal adjustment set screws (shown
arrowed at right) if required to adjust the rudder travel so
that the rudder deflects to each full travel mark as shown
in the photos above and mark each with TorqueSeal.

Flaps

Rudder pedal adjustment detail

Hold a straightedge under the wing and flap with a gap

equal to 2 mixing sticks at the rear of the wing and touching at the front and back, all as
shown in the photo below. Adjust the flap pushrods if required until all 3 positions are
touching on each wing. Tighten the pushrod locknuts and mark each with TorqueSeal.

Touching
here

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Gap equal to 2
mixing sticks here

Touching
here

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Testing>Rigging check
Ailerons
Check the control stick with the ailerons in the neutral position

Set the ailerons to the neutral position: a straightedge held under the wing must touch the
front and back of the wing and the back of the aileron as shown arrowed in the photo above.
The control stick should be centred left to right at this position.
Adjust the aileron cable lengths as required to centre the control stick.
Check that all rod end jam nuts are tight and mark each with TorqueSeal.
Check the aileron deflections

Place the aileron deflection template on top of the wing and set the aileron to the full UP
travel deflection as shown in the photo above (note the 3 arrowed points where the template
touches) and then check and adjust the stop bolt on the aileron bellcrank so that the bolt just
touches the eccentric stop at full deflection.
The eccentric stop that you fitted in the Post-Paint>Fuselage>Interior>Fit console controls
task can be rotated if required to give an equal length to the stop bolts.
Repeat the process for the other aileron, tighten the stop bolt locknuts and mark each with
TorqueSeal.

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Testing>Rigging check
Elevator
Check the elevator travel
Use the supplied deflection templates to check the up and down travel of the elevator.

DOWN elevator template

Hold the control stick all the way forward (have someone help you) and check the amount of
down deflection and adjust the cable length (by screwing the rod ends in or out an equal
amount at each end of the cable) until the down deflection is correct.

UP elevator template

Now have your helper hold full back stick and check the amount of up deflection: it should be
very close to correct if the down deflection is OK, however you may need to make some fine
adjustments to equalise elevator travel until both up and down deflections are correct.
The elevator must clear the rudder and the down stop by 2mm at full deflection.
Recheck the up and down deflections and then lock the rod end lock nuts at each end of the
cable and mark each rod end lock nut with TorqueSeal.
This completes the Testing>Rigging check task.

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Testing>Calibrate fuel gauges

Testing>Calibrate fuel gauges

Objectives of this task:
To calibrate the fuel gauges so that they show the amount of fuel remaining correctly and to
mark a fuel dipstick at the same time.
In this task you will be working with flammable fuel and you should take precautions such as
having a suitable fuel extinguisher close to hand and no naked lights of any kind nearby.
In the task Post-Paint>Wings>Prepare wings for fitting you set the empty indication of the
fuel gauges, now you must check the other indications: , , and full.
To do this you must have the following:

A fuel supply of at least 135 litres of clean aviation fuel (AVGAS)

An accurate means of measuring the fuel as it is dispensed

Clean, sealable fuel container(s) capable of holding around 135 litres

2 metres of fuel grade tubing and a 1 litre container

A length of clean wood or aluminium about 300mm long to use as a fuel dipstick

Some aircraft refuellers may allow you to use a part of their ramp area for this test provided
that you purchase your fuel from them. The calibration process should take less than an hour.
Level the aircraft
Park the aircraft on the level surface and chock the main wheels.
Use a spirit level to check the aircraft for level: laterally level across the bottom of door sills;
longitudinally level along the door sills. Pack under the wheels if and as required to level the
aircraft. If the surface is exactly level you can measure the distance from each wingtip to the
ground as a final check of lateral level, but the spirit level is the best reference.
The rest of this task depends on the aircraft remaining level throughout, so chock it carefully.
Find the zero fuel level
Remove the upper engine cowling.
Disconnect the fuel line in the engine bay at the firewall fitting and run a length of fuel line
from the firewall fitting, down and out of the lower cowling and into a clean fuel container.
Turn the fuel tap on the console to the ON position, with the lever facing forwards.
Remove both fuel caps and pour a small amount of fuel into each wing tank. Allow the fuel
levels to settle until some fuel runs out into the container. When the fuel no longer runs out of
the line the header tank will be full and the wing tanks empty: this is your zero fuel level.
Lock off the fuel lines
Now that you are at the zero fuel level the fuel lines from each wing tank must be locked off
be clamping both the front and back fuel pickup lines. Remove the lock wire around the fuel
sheathing at the rear of the wing root to expose the fuel lines as they enter the cabin.
Clamping of the fuel lines must be done carefully so as not to stress the fuel line, so use a
rounded surface with no sharp edges to bear against the fuel lines and apply just enough
clamp pressure to close the line, no more. Medium size spring clamps will excerpt enough
pressure to clamp the lines shut.
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Testing>Calibrate fuel gauges
Calibrate the fuel gauges
Fit the fuel gauge calibration decal around each wing tank gauge opening in the wing root
with the Zero indication on the decal placed against the fuel gauge needle at this point there
is no usable fuel in either wing tank.
The process now is to add 10 litres of fuel at a time to each tank in turn and mark carefully
what each gauge needle indicates on each decal (use a pencil initially), and at the same time
dip your fuel dipstick into each tank and mark carefully where the fuel level is on the dipstick.
If you have installed an engine management EFIS please refer to the documentation supplied
with the unit for details of how to calibrate the equipment during this task.
If any fuel runs out of the temporary line from the firewall it indicates that there is not enough
clamping pressure on a fuel line, so check carefully for any dribbling when the first fuel is
added to each wing tank and make sure that it is corrected before proceeding.
Continue adding fuel in 10 litre increments until each tank is full, noting at each stage the
gauge needle position for each tank each and marking the appropriate end and side of the fuel
dipstick. Each wing tank will hold approximately 60 litres of fuel.
Once both tanks are full and each decal and each end of the dipstick have all been marked,
remove the clamps from the fuel lines and check very carefully for any sign of weeping or
leaking from the part of the fuel lines where the clamps were applied.
Any sign of a leak will require that the fuel be drained from both tanks (otherwise it will cross
feed from the full tank to the empty tank) and complete replacement of the leaking fuel line.
Note that fracturing of the fuel lines after clamping is a rare occurrence that is only likely to
happen if the fuel lines are very old, for example in a long-delayed build that has sat for many
years. If this is the case we strongly recommend that all fuel lines be replaced before flight
if one fuel line is weak then the others are very probably in a similar state.
Even if your fuel lines are new you must check each line carefully for leaks after clamping.
Once all of the fuel lines have been checked and there are no leaks the protective sheathing
can be refitted and lock wired back into place.
Flush all of the quick drains thoroughly drain at least 500ml of fuel out of each one, more if
there is any sign of dirt or debris: flush until the fuel runs clean from each drain.
Now you must drain all but 20 litres from each wing tank in preparation for test flying: use
the temporary line from the firewall fitting and let both tank drain down to the 20 litre mark
you can use your new calibrated fuel dipstick to check the fuel level.
If you are using ramp space at the refuellers you may wish to push the aircraft back out of the
way for the draining process, which can take some time. You may use the electric fuel pump
to speed the draining process up. Record the time taken to fill a 1-litre container both with and
without the use of the electric fuel pump and save the result for the Final inspection checklist.
Once the draining process is complete, reattach the fuel line from the carburettor to the
firewall fitting and tighten the hose clamp and then refit and lock wire the fireproof sheath.
Mark the fuel gauge decals in a permanent manner. Keep your calibrated fuel dipstick in a
handy location such as a door pocket and consider making a spare copy, just in case.
This completes the Testing>Calibrate fuel gauges task.
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Testing>Registration markings

Testing>Registration markings
Objectives of this task:
To fit complying registration markings to the aircraft.
You will need to determine the requirements of the aviation authority in your own country.
In Australia either the Recreational Aircraft Association (RAA) for recreational registration or
the Civil Aviation Safety Authority (CASA) for general aviation registration controls the
allocation of aviation registration markings.
Registration markings should be made from vinyl by a specialist sign-writing company and
applied by them, usually under the left wing and on each side of the empennage.

The drawings above show the RAA requirements as an example.

This completes the Testing>Registration markings task.

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Testing>Final inspection checklist

Testing>Final inspection checklist

This is the checklist that we use in the factory: it covers every part of the aircraft and it must
be completed before your first flight.
Time to complete properly: at least one full day, probably more. Do not rush these checks!
Aircraft Registration:
Jabiru Model:
Firewall forward components
Propeller: Jabiru / Sensenich
Propeller Size:
Propeller Serial No:
Propeller Bolts
1

Check torque (Jabiru prop 7 ft/lbs, Senenich prop 12ft/lbs)

Check tip tracking is accurate to < 2mm, adjust if required

TorqueSeal the propeller nuts

Visually check propeller for serviceability

Spinner
1

Spinner screws secure

Check that the spinner and spinner backing plate has been indexed
correctly and marked on the spinner and spinner flange

Visually check spinner tracking with the engine running

Engine
1

Engine Serial Number: ___________________

Engine mount bolts secure:

a) firewall

b) engine

Thrust washers in place and correct

Fuel hose secure:

a) bulkhead to fuel pump

b) fuel pump to carburettor

c) fuel lines all clamped and tied

d) fire sleeve covering clamps and lock wired in place

Breather hose from fuel pump: drain line routed correctly

Drip tray under fuel pump: drain line routed correctly

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Spark Plugs/Coil leads
1

Spark plugs are secure in cylinder heads

Spark plug leads are secure on spark plugs

Spark plug leads not rubbing (on air ducts, cylinder heads)

Terminal nuts are secure

CHT sender (12mm terminal) secure

Spark plug leads secure in distributor caps

16 gauge earth wire secure and clipped to each coil

Ram Air Ducts

1

Baffles in place

Cap screws secure through ducts to cylinder heads

Springs in place inboard side of ducts

Spring lock-wire correct and secure

Check alignment of rubber front lip with the top cowl

Air ducts not touching the underside of the top cowl or oil door hinge

Cooling tubes directed onto coils

Engine Oil
1

Oil level correct (capacity: 2200 = 2.3 litres, 3300 = 3.5 litres)

Sump plug tightened and lock wired

Oil filter secure (spin on filter, hand pressure only)

Oil cooler bracket secured to engine

Oil cooler secured to bracket

Oil cooler hose clamps secure x 4

Check oil hose routing

Fire sleeve secure and lock wired over hose clamps

Oil breather hose and oil bottle secure

Throttle cable
1

Cable lock nuts secure on both ends of cable

Cable end free in carburettor link

Split pins secure

2 x 5/16 washers between cable and carburettor link

Cable alignment correct with outer at both ends

Cable adjustment
a) full throttle

b) idle

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Choke Cable
1

Lock nuts secure both ends of cable

Cable end free in carburettor link

Split pin secure

Cable alignment correct with outer

Operational

Carburettor Heat Cable

1

Lock nuts secure both ends

Cable end free in carburettor link

Split pin secure

Cable alignment correct with outer

Operational

Cabin Heat Cable

1

Lock nuts secure both ends

Butterfly sealing in ON and OFF positions

Over-centre spring fitted properly and working

SCAT hoses routing nothing rubbing, etc

Scat Hoses
1

Hot air mixer box to carburettor

a) hose clamps secure

b) hose not bunched up under carburettor

c) cobra head fitted and aligned properly

d) smooth routing

NACA duct in cowl to hot air mixer box cold air inlet
a) hose clamps secure

b) smooth routing and secure

Heat shroud on muffler to hot air mixer box hot air inlet
a) hose clamps secure

b) smooth routing

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Nose leg and housing
1

Front tyre pressure checked: 34 psi

[Tyre Pressure] decal in place on spat above grommet

Nose wheel - ease of rotation

Nose leg lubricated and ease of rotation left to right

Assembly all bolts secure in nose leg

Housing bolts secure

Rod ends secure both sides

Safety hole in rod ends within limits

Jam nuts on rod ends secure

10 Air valve grommet in place

11 Spat retaining screws secure

12 Centring springs do not become coil bound full deflection

Electrical
1

Battery tie down secure

Battery terminals secure

Battery earth secure on firewall

Starter solenoid locknuts and wires secure

Regulator wires secure and correct

Temp sender wires secure (EOT and CHT) plus EGT if fitted

All wiring cable tied and secure

Oil pressure wire correct and secure (G terminal)

Cowls
1

Top and bottom cowl alignment correct (no gaps)

Retained nuts secure and correct

Oil door operational

Spinner not touching front of cowl and Propeller

Oil cooler not touching bottom cowling

Cylinder heads not touching top or bottom cowling

NACA duct secure with no sharp edges

Cam locks secure and operational

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Interior
Fuel system
1

Fuel filter secure and flow direction correct

Fuel pump (electronic) secure and flow direction correct

Fuel lines secure:

a) fuel pickups and breather lines from wing roots to header tank inlets

b) header tank outlet to fuel filter

c) fuel filter to electric fuel pump

d) electric fuel pump to fuel tap on console

e) fuel tap on console to bulkhead fitting

Fuel line sheathing in place and secure

Check fuel valve mounting and lever secure to console

Fuel Breather:
a) check breather hose clamps and breather route

b) wing breather tube to wing root secure

c) check ball in breather in wing tank cap is free

d) check fuel breather tube is secure to body fuel filler

e) fuel breather check has been conducted:

Note: you must be able to hear air in all outlets independently by:
i)

Removing filler cap in left wing and blow into tank

ii)

Removing filler cap in right wing and blow into tank

Fuel gauges

LEFT

RIGHT

Window fitted in fuselage opposite wing roots

Calibration decal in place left and right

Wires connected to left and right senders

Left sender drives left gauge and vice versa

No leaks from sender boss

Fuel flow test

20 litres of fuel in each wing tank

Check fuel tap has been correctly indexed i.e. ON is on OFF is off

Select fuel tap on and measure the fuel flow (recorded in Calibrate fuel gauges task)

a) electric fuel pump OFF ____________ litres per minute

b) electric fuel pump ON

____________ litres per minute

There should be around 1 litre per minute flow with the electric fuel pump ON

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Controls
Rudder pedals
1

Rudder springs installed properly

Rudder stops lining up properly

2 x Pedal mount bolts secure (pushrod to pedals)

Rudder pedal keepers secure and correct

2 x and 4 x 3/16 bolts secure in bearing blocks

2 x bolts secure in pushrods (pushrod to nose leg yoke)

Check jam nuts on rod ends secure x 5

Check safety hole is within limits on rod ends x 5

Check rod end free play at full deflection, both directions

10 Rudder clear of fin channel. Rudder cannot bind on channel

Rudder cable
1

Anchor secure and correct position in clamp

Rod end secure in pedal with washer outside

Safety hole is within limits on rod ends

Jam nuts on rod ends secured

Rod end free play at full deflections, in both directions

Rudder pedal stops adjusted and secure:

rudder should move 78mm left and right from the 5mm offset centre mark

Trim
1

Trim levers (left and right) are secure

Lever pivot secure and split pin fitted through nut

Free play between left and right side levers not excessive

Friction correct and secure

Rod end secure

Safety hole is within limits on rod ends

Jam nuts on rod ends secured

Cable position in clamp correct and anchor secure

Operation full forward and full back trim

10 Spring not coil bound with elevator fully deflected up

11 Placard fitted to console top in correct sense

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Brake
1

Handle assembly correct and secure

Check safety hole within limits

Operation

Free play

Fluid level full

Stainless striker in place

Handbrake correct and operational

Throttle
1

Cable anchor secure

Cable alignment correct

Cable end free in output lever

Output lever secure

Input lever x 2 secure

Throttle lock hole in pilots input lever

Bearing blocks x 2 secure

Throttle stops correct and secure

Main control shaft

1

Control stick pivot secure

Yoke secure (no free play)

Rod end secure

Safety hole is within limits on rod ends

Jam nuts on rod ends secured

Elevator cable anchor secure and correct position in clamp

Elevator cable clear of centre console in all positions

(particularly elevator UP and aileron to left hand side)

Rod end free at full deflections

Aileron bell crank lines up properly with stops and is not binding

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Aileron Cable

LEFT

RIGHT

Cable anchor wedges in place

R clips in place

Rivets x 3 TLR through each bracket and seat back

Rod end secure

Safety hole is within limits on rod ends

Jam nuts on rod ends secured

Aileron stoppers secure x 2 (cannot over centre aileron bellcrank)

Seat belts

LEFT

RIGHT

Check bolts are through Nyloc and buckle has free play

Operation of buckle and length adjustments play

Belts not twisted play

Seat belt anchor secure (lower and upper) play

Door frame compression struts in place, no sharp edges

Headsets
1

Hook secure

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Instrument panel
1

Secure and level

Instruments square (check that the slip/skid ball is centred).

Slip/skid ball air bubble not visible

Circuit breakers secure and correctly labelled

Switches secure and correctly labelled

Registration number displayed on panel

Mag switch guard in place and square with rounded edges

All instruments fitted and operational *

Instrument markings correct

10 Altimeter QNH correct

11 All avionics installed and operational

12 Cigarette lighter / 12v power fitting installed

* Fit 1 metre of rolled up surgical tubing to the brass static tube connector under the panel.
Watch the pressure instruments while slowly unrolling the tubing. The altimeter should start
to show an increase in altitude. The vertical speed indicator should start to show a positive
rate of climb and the airspeed indicator may show a small positive indication.
When the altimeter shows 2000 feet pinch off the tubing. There will be some initial decrease
in altitude and the vertical speed indicator will read zero. The altimeter should then hold the
indicated altitude for at least one minute. If altitude is lost then look for leaks.
Note: NEVER apply suction orally or mechanically to a static line - it can damage the
instruments.
Flaps
1

Mounting bolts secure

Rod end bolt secure: motor end and flap shaft ends

Rod end not binding in any position

Safety hole is within limits on rod end

Jam nut on rod end secured

Visual on input switch (knob shape, operation and decal)

Visual on bearing blocks

Check all nuts are in safety

Flap indicator
1

Secure and correct indication:

a) Flaps up

b) First stage: half flap

c) Second stage: full flap

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Upholstery:
1

Fitted and clean

Seat covers

Map pockets

Flap shaft upholstered

Centre console upholstered

Fuel line covers in place

Placards and decals:

1

[No Smoking] on panel

[No Intentional Spins] on panel

[Voltage must be displayed at all times] above EMS (if applicable)

[Transponder not calibrated] (if applicable)

Switches labelled (label above switch, [OFF] below switch)

[Aircraft built to LSA standards] decal beside main placard

Warning placard above windscreen. Weight entered

Baggage (Limit, loading rules, seat backs)

Loading stations

Doors:

LEFT

RIGHT

Operation: open and shut, latches working

Restraining straps secure and correct length

Hinge and pin secure

Catches secure and freely operating (main plus top latch)

Visual on door jamb

Visual on door seal

Visual on handle

Visual on top catch

Decals
a) [Do Not Lean On Door]

b) [Exit]

c) [Open]

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Exterior
Wings:

LEFT

RIGHT

Root bolts inspected (correct tension) x 2

Strut bolts x 2 inspected, correct tension

Warning decals in wing roots x 2 [Do Not Tighten]

Wing root cover strips secure

Upper strut fairing secure and clear of strut

Lower wing strut/belly fairings secure

Flaps
1

Hinge points secure with pivot bolts in safety

Pushrod rod ends secure and not binding in any position

Safety hole in rod ends is within limits

Jam nuts on rod ends secure

Pushrods not fouling on cover strips

Drive shaft output secure

Drain holes have been drilled

Flap operation:
a) flaps up

b) first stage half flap

c) second stage full flap, not fouling fuselage

Flap slot gap even, smooth and the same size on both wings

Fuel caps
1

Filler caps secure in fuel filler body

Earth wires secure from caps to breather fitting in tank

Quick drain: operation and lock wired

Decals in place and correct

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Ailerons

LEFT

RIGHT

a) Neutral (level with lower wing skin) with stick centred

b) UP

c) DOWN ________degrees

Hinge pins and pin retainers secure

Rod ends secure

Safety hole on rod ends within limits

Jam nuts on rod ends secure

Cable anchor secure and correct position in clamp

Drain holes
a) Wing drain hole in trailing edge

b) Aileron cable inspection windows secure

Deflections
________degrees, or touches template

Pitot
1

Secure

ASI operation (see * below)

Cover present

Pressure Test with no leaks (see * below)

* Slip 1 metre of surgical tubing over the pitot tube. Have one person watch the airspeed
indicator while the other person very slowly rolls up the tubing. This will apply pressure to
the instrument in a gentle and controllable manner. When the ASI needle reaches cruising
speed pinch the tube shut the ASI should hold that reading for at least one minute. A fast
drop off will indicate a leak in the instrument, fitting, lines or the test hose attachment.
Note: NEVER blow into a pitot tube it can damage the ASI.
Stall warning:
1

Stall warning horn secured in cabin

Operation correct (suck to ensure reed is working)

Gauze and lip installed correctly and clear

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Main Undercarriage

LEFT

RIGHT

Main gear legs secure

Stub axle secure

Hubs secure

Stub axle extension is secure

Calliper secure

Discs secure

Ease of rotation

Tyre pressure 45 psi

[Tyre Pressure] decal in place

10 Brake line not rubbing on spat

a) screws secure

b) clear of tyre

c) retain nuts

d) outer edge nothing rubs

e) air valve grommet in place

f) [No Step] decal in place

11 Spats

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Empennage
Elevator Deflections
________ degrees, or touches the UP template

UP

DOWN ________ degrees, or touches the DOWN template

2mm clearance to the stop on fuselage at full DOWN deflection

Elevator
1

Hinge pins and retainers secure

Rod ends secure

Safety in rod ends within limits

Jam nuts on rod ends secure

Cable anchor secure and correct position in clamp

Drive plate secure

Rod end free play at full deflections

End-plug not touching end-cap full deflection down

Elevator min 2mm clear of stabiliser channel

10 Elevator cannot bind on horizontal stabiliser channel

Trim
1

Pivots secure

Spring rod

a) split pins secure

b) springs lubricated

c) black block secure and free

d) rod ends secure

e) safety hole within limit

f) jam nuts secure

g) rod end free at full deflections

Trim cable
a) cable anchor secure and correct position in clamp

b) rod ends secure

c) safety hole in rod ends within limits

d) jam nuts on rod ends secure

e) rod end free at full deflections

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Testing>Final inspection checklist
Ventral Fin:
1

Retained nuts in fuselage secure

Elevator horn not hitting cut-out in ventral fin at full up deflection

Inspection holes drilled

Drain holes drilled out

Ventral fin secure onto fuselage

Rudder:
1

Centre 5mm offset to right when pedals level

Deflection

_________mm from the offset centre mark

b) Right _________mm from the offset centre mark

2mm clearance to the stops on fuselage at full deflection

Hinge pin and pin retainers secure

Rod end secure

Safety in rod end within limits

Jam nut on rod end secure

Cable anchor secure and correct position in clamp

Rod end free at full deflections

a) Left

Static Vent:
1

Tip secure

Holes clear

Decal in place

Note that leak testing of the static system has been performed as part of the instrument
checklist.
I hereby certify that I have completed this Final Inspection Checklist:

Owner / Builder / Engineer

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(strike out any that do not apply)

Date

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Testing>Flight testing

Testing>Flight testing
Objectives of this task:
To safely and successfully test fly the aircraft, record information resulting from the flight test
sequence and use that information to fine tune the flying characteristics of the aircraft.
Well, this is what it all comes down to: you have built your own Jabiru, you have painted it
and assembled it and checked and tested every part of it to your satisfaction and now it is time
to finish the project and actually fly the machine for the first time!
This is no small undertaking, and you must ask yourself if you are capable of performing the
flight test on your own, or, perhaps, if your experience level or recency is low, you may wish
to hire a more experienced pilot to conduct some or all of the flight testing for you.
This task will step you through each of the flight testing stages that we employ here in our
factory testing program, along with the appropriate forms to record the results of each stage.
The correct sequence for rectifying any out of rig conditions will be explained along the way.
Reference documentation
The Australian Civil Aviation Safety Authority (CASA) produces a Flight Test Guide for
Certification of CAO 101.28 Category Airplanes. This document is required to be completed
as part of the approval process for Australian-built aircraft.
In countries other than Australia, the amateur builder should seek advice from the appropriate
Airworthiness Authority and/or the relevant amateur building association (EAA Chapter or
equivalent) as regards their requirements.
In the USA the FAA publishes the Amateur-Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing
Handbook (publication AC90-89A), which addresses the topic in considerable detail and
which may be obtained here: www.faa.gov/library/manuals/
Sequence
This task will address the following steps:

Preliminary work
o Airport selection
o Emergency plans and equipment
o The test pilot

Sequence #1: Ground runs

o Engine parameters
o Taxi testing

Sequence #2: Initial flight and function testing

o First flight, rigging checks
o Rigging corrections

Sequence #3: Performance flight testing

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Testing>Flight testing
Airfield selection
Airfield selection will play a very important role in your testing and you should approach your
choice of airfield with considerable care. The nearest flat piece of land may not necessarily be
the best or safest place and you may have to consider transporting your new Jabiru by road to
a suitable airfield for the flight testing sequence.
The ideal airfield would be at or near sea level with a runway of at least 1000 metres length
(for every 1000 feet increase in elevation add 200 metres to the length required) in an area
that is relatively flat with few obstructions near the airfield. Ideally there should not be many
buildings surrounding the airfield and there should be enough open space around the airfield
to allow for the possibility of an out landing.
The test pilot should familiarise himself with the surrounding area from the air with particular
regard to suitable landing areas for emergency use before starting the testing sequence.
Emergency plans and equipment
Before any testing can begin you must have a plan in place to deal with emergency situations.
You must address what actions to take if it all goes badly and an accident happens and know
the local emergency telephone numbers.
A support crew of 2 suitably experienced people will be required to support the flight testing
sequences and assist the test pilot with refuelling and checking the aircraft.
The following details the bare minimum requirements, to which you may wish to add your
own items:
The GROUND emergency plan
All crew (pilot and ground crew) should know how to:

Open the cabin doors

Release the pilots harness/seat belt

Locate and turn off the fuel valve

Locate and turn off the Master switch and the magneto switches

Remove the cowling and disconnect the battery for fire fighting purposes

The IN-FLIGHT emergency plan

The pilot will need to consider his response to the following:

Complete or partial engine failure, particularly shortly after takeoff

Flight control problems including severe out of rig conditions

Fire in the engine compartment or cockpit

Equipment
The pilot should carry a CO2 detector in the cockpit at all times during all flight testing.
The crew should have access to a dry powder fire extinguisher.
There should be 2-way radio communication between the pilot and the support crew at all
times as well as any radio communication required by local regulations. Most Jabiru aircraft
will have a VHF radio installed, and if the support crew have a hand-held VHF radio then a
discreet frequency can be used to communicate during the test flight sequence.
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Testing>Flight testing
The test pilot
Flight testing must only be carried out by a suitably qualified and experienced test pilot.
Test flying any newly built aircraft is risky. For example, minor changes to aircraft rigging
can significantly alter stall behaviour, leading to extreme wing drops or spinning. Test pilots
must be aware of this and all other potential risks and be suitably skilled to recover control of
the aircraft from extreme and unusual attitudes.
The Test Sequence in this task is based on the Test Schedule used by Jabiru Aircraft on
factory-built models and is supplied as reference material as a part of the construction data for
this kit. Several of the manoeuvres required by this schedule will result in extreme aircraft
attitudes and carry an increased risk of spinning or other undesirable aircraft behaviour.
Pilots choosing to follow the Jabiru Aircraft Test Sequence do so at their own risk.
Recency
In particular, the test pilot should have a recently demonstrated ability to:

Deal with an engine failure at low altitude (~200ft) after takeoff

Recover from stalls in level flight and in banked turns

Recover from a spin

Recover from unusual attitudes (including a spiral dive)

Carry out a flapless landing

Carry out a glide approach and landing

Medical considerations
The test pilot should be in good health and should abide by the following conditions:

Should not have a head cold or any current sinus problems

Have had no local or dental anaesthetics for at least 48 hours prior to test flying

Alcohol: an absolute minimum of 24 hours, preferably longer, must have elapsed

between the last consumption of alcohol and any test flying

Should not have donated blood for at least 3 weeks prior to test flying

Clothing
The test pilot should consider the possibility of an in-flight fire and dress accordingly:

Dress ONLY in natural fibres and do NOT wear any synthetic materials

Long pants and long sleeves no bare skin should be exposed

Nomex gloves for hand protection (most pilot supplies shops carry these)

Checklists
The test pilot should be completely familiar with the normal and emergency checklists in the
Owners Manual and should commit to memory the critical airspeeds that are specified in the
Owners Manual.
It may be useful to write these speeds down and tape them to the instrument panel for ease of
reference in flight.

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Testing>Flight testing
Sequence #1 First start, ground run and taxi
Print and use the Flight Testing form Sequence #1 for this sequence.
Locate the aircraft on a suitable run-up area with no gravel or small stones in the area under
the propeller, point the nose of the aircraft into wind and chock the main wheels.
Pre start
Remove the upper cowling and set it aside. Remove the spark plugs, turn the Master switch
ON and leave both magneto switches OFF. Press the starter button and allow the engine to
crank over. Watch the Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) gauge for the first indication of oil
pressure. Stop cranking once oil pressure is seen. Refit the spark plugs and upper cowling.
Start
Turn both magneto switches ON and pull the choke ON. Turn the fuel tap ON, turn the fuel
pump ON and listen for its operation for 10 seconds. Turn the fuel pump OFF.
Press the starter button; listen for the click of the solenoid, and the winding of the starter
motor. The engine should start within a few revolutions, usually as soon as fuel reaches the
carburettor. Listen for the sound of the starter motor disengaging after engine start.
Watch the EOP and if it does not rise in the first 10 seconds after starting shut the engine
down and call the mechanic. The EOP range should be from 220 to 525 kPa.
Idle condition
The idle should be smooth and may be up to 1400 rpm with the choke on, and up to 900-950
rpm with the choke off. Note that the requirement for choke will vary with OAT. Check the
Engine Oil Temperature (EOT), it should rise slowly and steadily to 50 60 C, and the
Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) should rise to 85 105 C. The Exhaust Gas
Temperature (EGT) gauge (if fitted) should read between 425 485 C.
Once the engine has warmed (EOT 50C or more) then you may proceed, but before you do
the idle speed must be adjusted correctly in accordance with the procedure in the next step.
Idle speed adjustment
Once the engine has been warmed to operating temperature then the idle speed must be
adjusted before proceeding. This idle speed adjustment procedure will require 2 people: one
inside the cabin operating the engine and one adjusting the idle stop on the carburettor.
Stop the engine by turning both Mag switches to the OFF position. If the engine will not stop
it means that a Mag earth wire is not correctly connected in this event stop the engine by
turning the fuel tap OFF and waiting until the engine stops. Connect the earth wire before
re-starting the engine.
Remove the upper cowling and set it aside. The Pilot side throttle input shaft has 2 alloy
collars while the Co-Pilot side has 1 collar. Loosen all 3 collars with an Allen key, working
through the holes in each side of the instrument panel housing. Start the engine and adjust the
idle stop on the carburettor until the engine idles at 900 rpm. Stay well clear of the propeller!
Adjust the collars on the input shafts so that when the engine is at idle the collars on each
input shaft are just touching the back of the input shaft pivot block. Lock each idle collar in
place. With the engine turned OFF push both input shafts to full throttle and adjust the Pilot
side collar so that it is just touching the other side of the pivot block and lock it in place.
Re-test the idle and make any further adjustments required. Replace the upper cowling.

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Testing>Flight testing
Run up and full power check
Re-start the engine and smoothly increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm. Check that all
temperatures and pressures are in the green part of the range.
Check each magneto individually: the maximum permissible rpm drop is 200 rpm but it is
typically much less. If an rpm drop of more than 100 rpm occurs on either magneto, shut the
engine down and call for the mechanic.
Still at 2000 rpm apply carburettor heat: the maximum permissible rpm drop is 100 rpm but it
is typically much less. Check that all temperatures and pressures are still in the green.
Advance the throttle until it is fully open: the engine should not falter or surge during this
operation. Record the maximum sustained static speed (2975 3050 rpm); wait for 60
seconds and then record the EOP, EOT, CHT and EGT (if fitted). Limit the full power
segment of the ground run to less than 2 minutes total time.
Bring the engine smoothly back 1200 rpm for a minute or 2 and then back to idle.
Engine shutdown
Allow the engine to return to idle: the idle should be smooth at 900 rpm. Turn both magneto
switches OFF and the engine should stop smoothly.
Turn the Master switch OFF.
Remove the cowling and check for any leaks of oil or fuel. Correct as required before
proceeding with the testing sequence.
Taxi tests
Re-start the engine and taxi to the movement area or ramp with your headset off.
Listen for and note:

Airframe sounds

Electric fuel pump functioning

Suspension movement

Doors and windscreen structure movement

Wheel bearings and brakes

Tyres rubbing on the wheel spats (if fitted)

Steering: should steer positively

Approaching the movement area or ramp cut the engine.

Check that the aircraft rolls freely without brake drag. At a slow speed and without your feet
on the rudder pedals apply the brakes firmly, the brakes should pull straight and the aircraft
should stop abruptly.
Any brake binding or wheel rubbing issues should be rectified before the first flight.
Restart the engine.
On the movement area or ramp check the turning circle (left and right turns). The radius of the
left and right turns should be the same.
Face into and taxi into wind. The aircraft should track straight with feet off the rudder pedals.

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Testing>Flight testing
Compass swing
While you are out in the run-up area and provided that the ground run has gone well, this
would be a good time for a compass swing before you start the actual test flying.
You will need assistance to turn the aircraft accurately onto headings and your ground crew
can help you with this. You'll need a small, brass, non-magnetic screwdriver and ideally an
airport with a compass rose: a compass rose is a pattern painted on the ground, which
accurately depicts magnetic headings. If your local airport doesnt have one you can make
your own using the known magnetic orientation of the runways at an airport or a known
good hand held reference compass with an alignment sight.
Be careful with this approach though, just because a runway is marked "14" doesnt mean it is
oriented at 140, it might actually be oriented 144 or 138. Check with your local airport
operator to get the precise orientation. A hand held reference compass is usually preferable.
Remove all metal objects from your person and the aircraft before you start and make sure
that the selected area has no nearby metal structures that could affect the magnetic compass.
For the test the aircraft should be configured as it would be for flight, with the engine running
and all avionics and Nav and strobe lights turned on. Try some test transmissions with your
VHF comms to see if transmissions affect the compass in any way.
Under the compass display window are 2 screws that are used to compensate for instrument
errors, one for North South adjustments and the other for East West adjustments.
Position the aircraft at a known North heading using a compass rose or a reference compass.
1. With the aircraft oriented North, the engine running, and all radios switched on, adjust
the N-S adjusting screw until the compass reads due North, or 0.
2. Rotate the aircraft to a known East heading, and use the E-W adjusting screw to make
the compass read due East, or 90.
3. Rotate the aircraft to a known South heading. Note how many degrees off South the
compass reads. Turn the N-S adjusting screw to remove one half of the error.
4. Rotate the aircraft to a known West heading. Note how many degrees off West the
compass reads. Adjust the E-W adjusting screw to remove one half of the error.
5. Rotate the aircraft through the N, E, S and W headings again, confirming that the
errors for North and South are the same, and the errors for East and West are the same.
You may want to repeat steps 1-4 to fine-tune the corrections.
6. Now rotate the aircraft from North, stopping at each 30 point on the compass rose or
reference compass (e.g., 030, 060, 090, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, 270, 300, and 330
degrees) and make a note of the actual aircraft compass reading compared to the
compass rose or reference compass at each point, then complete the compass
calibration card that was packed with your compass, which you should then mount in
the holder on the front of the compass for reference.
If you cannot get a usable set of readings you will need to locate any sources of magnetic
interference. Look for steel screws, washers or other components near the compass. You
should also experiment with aircraft electrical systems (lights, for example), to see whether
activation of that equipment causes the compass to misbehave.
The compass should be re-swung after any significant changes to the panel or engine bay and
at least once every 2 years.

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Testing>Flight testing
Sequence #2 First flight and rigging tests
Pre-flight
Print and use the Flight Testing form Sequence #2 for each test flight in this sequence.
Recording
Use a kneeboard or clipboard to hold the Flight Test forms and record details of each test
flight, however the first priority must always be to fly the aircraft so write things down only
when it is safe to do so.
Loading
Load the aircraft with the test pilot and 20 litres of fuel in each wing tank.
If you have followed the instructions in the Testing>Calibrate fuel gauges task you should
already have 20 litres per side at this point, if not then drain or add fuel as required.
Engine Start and Run-up
Start the engine normally, taxi to the run-up area and perform an engine run-up.
Check temperatures and pressures and make sure that the idle is correct when the engine is
warm it should idle at around 900 rpm.
Pre-take off Checks
Record the date and engine hours as well as the wind direction and strength, the OAT, the
Runway in use and the Pressure Altitude. Set the altimeter back to the local QNH.
Check controls for full and free movement and correct sense see each control surface
movement. Any sense of controls binding must be addressed before proceeding.
Listen for traffic and wait for the traffic to clear for first flight. Carry out the pre-takeoff
checks specified in the Owners Manual.
Advise all traffic that a first flight is to be conducted.

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Testing>Flight testing
Flight testing
Takeoff and climb
Use the full length of the available runway, which should be into wind.
Apply full power in a positive manner over a count of 4.
Check engine rpm indication and ASI function on the roll and abort if either is incorrect.
Immediately after takeoff check instruments and LISTEN, FEEL and SMELL and if in any
doubt abort and land on the remaining runway, otherwise proceed.
Climb at full power at 80 KIAS while remaining over the airfield: remain within gliding
distance of the airfield at all times on the first flight: plan your climb carefully so that you are
always within reach of the field should the engine fail. This may require an initial turn at less
than 500 ft AGL depending on the layout of the airfield.
Monitor the engine gauges carefully while climbing and note any tendency towards
overheating. If temperatures get near to the top of the green range, increase airspeed to 90
KIAS to improve the cooling airflow. If the temperatures are still too high, reduce power
slightly. Be particularly alert when you reduce the power for the first time.
At 3,000 ft above the airfield reduce the power to 2800 rpm, trim the aircraft for straight and
level flight and check the rigging of the aircraft.
Rigging tests
If the aircraft flies straight with the ball in the centre and the rudder pedals are level the
rigging is correct. There are 4 steps or tests that must be made:
1. If the aircraft flies straight with the ball in the centre but with the rudder pedals displaced
then the pushrods that connect the rudder pedals to the steering yoke need adjusting.
2. If the aircraft flies straight but requires pressure on one rudder pedal to keep the ball in the
centre then the rudder cable needs adjusting.
If the ball is centred and the rudder pedals are level but the aircraft tends to roll or turn then
the flaps may need adjustment. Check the stall before making any changes to the flaps.
Slow the aircraft to near the point of stall in a clean configuration at idle power with the
ball centred and note any tendency to roll just before the point of stall. If this happens then
slow the aircraft to near the point of stall in a clean configuration several more times and
note which wing drops just before the point of stall.
3. If the aircraft rolls just before the point of stall then the angle of incidence will need to be
adjusted by means of the eccentric wing root bushes that are supplied with your kit.
The correct installation procedure is explained later in this task.
4. If all flight up to the stall is wings level then the angle of incidence can be considered to
be correct and any roll corrections can be made by individual adjustment of the flaps.
Slow the aircraft to VFE, test the flaps at both half and full settings and then retract them.
Descent and landing
Descend to circuit height and conduct a normal approach and landing.
During the landing roll check that the undercarriage does not have any unusual noises, that the
aircraft is easily controlled and that the brakes work evenly when applied.

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Testing>Flight testing
Rigging corrective actions
It is particularly important that any rigging problems are dealt with in the correct sequence.
Use the flowchart below to work your way through any rigging problems: it may be necessary
to step through the flowchart more than once, but the sequence is very important so work
through each line one at a time, making corrections as indicated and retesting each time until
the rigging is correct.

No

Does the aircraft fly

straight and level
with the ball centred?

Yes

Are the rudder

pedals displaced?

Yes

Adjust the rudder

pedal pushrods

Adjust the rudder

cable length

Adjust the Angle

of Incidence

Adjust the
flaps individually

No
Is rudder pressure
needed to keep
the ball centred?

Yes

No
Is there any
tendency to roll
or turn?

No
Rigging is
correct

Yes

Does the aircraft

roll just before
the stall?

Yes

No

Retest the aircraft after each adjustment has been made and keep working through the
flowchart from line #1 all the way to line #4 until you reach the Rigging is correct box at
the bottom left of the chart.
The Flight Testing form Sequence #2 should be printed out and used to record information
while in flight. Print one form per test flight and retain each as a permanent record.

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Testing>Flight testing
1. Adjusting the Rudder Pedal Pushrods
If the rudder pedals are displaced fore and aft when the aircraft is in straight and level flight,
adjust the rudder pedal pushrods that connect the rudder pedals to the steering yoke until the
pedals sit level. Retest and adjust as required.
2. Adjusting the Rudder Cable
If pressure is required on one rudder pedal to keep the aircraft straight in straight and level
flight: if pressure is required on the right pedal then the rudder cable must be shortened, while
if pressure is required on the left pedal then the rudder cable must be lengthened.
To alter the length of the rudder cable the rod ends must be removed from the connecting
bolts, the lock nuts must be loosened and each rod end must be moved and equal amount,
either in or out. Note that the rudder pedal stops must be readjusted at the same time.
It is not possible to predict the amount of adjustment required as each case will be different,
but as a general guide try moving each rod end one full turn for a total of 2 full turns (1 at
each end of the cable) and then test fly that configuration to see if more or less adjustment is
required. Take careful note of each change and the effect on the flying qualities of the aircraft.
Care must be taken: the threaded end of the rudder cable must always be visible through the
safety hole in each rod end, the lock nuts must be tightened against each rod end and the
Nyloc nuts on the connecting bolts should be replaced before each test flight.
3. Adjusting the Angle of Incidence (AoI)
Use this procedure only if the aircraft repeatedly rolls towards the same wing just before the
point of stall in a clean configuration as explained earlier in this task. The wing that drops is
stalling slightly ahead of the other wing and it will need to have its angle of incidence reduced
by a small amount. You will need to fit the eccentric bushes to the wing that drops to decrease
the Angle of Incidence by 0.4, which will entail placing the offset hole in the front bush UP
and the offset hole in the rear bush DOWN. This very small change will be all that is required.
This procedure can be carried out without removing the wing from the aircraft.
Remove the wing root fairings. Chock the main wheels and support the outboard end of the
wing. Remove the nuts from the wing root bolts and then very carefully tap each bolt out: as
each bolt is removed, replace it with a length of stout wire of approximately 5mm thickness so
that the wing root will not drop and damage the fuel lines or the side of the fuselage. Note
carefully the position of the flat washers for reassembly.
Now the front wire can be removed and the wing can be slightly lifted so that the front bush is
raised above the mounting lugs on the fuselage and the wing must then be held in this position
by placing a bolt back through the front wing lug on the fuselage so that the wing lug can sit
on the bolt. Take your time and make sure that the wing is unable to move or fall from this
position by making sure that the outboard end of the wing is firmly supported fore and aft as
well as underneath.
Heat the front bush with a soldering iron and remove it completely from the lug and clean
away all of the flock from the bush mounting hole in the lug then tap the hole to 5/8 UNC in
preparation for screwing in the eccentric bush.
It is very important that the tap be exactly square on to the lug and not angled in any way.
It may be necessary to remove a small amount of material from the leading edge at the wing
root to allow a straight approach to the hole in the front lug when tapping the thread.
The wing root fairing will cover a small cutout here if it is required.
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Testing>Flight testing
Test fit the eccentric bush into the wing lug dry, using a gently tapered object such as an old
round file through the centre of the bush to screw the bush into the lug, ending when the bush
is centred in the lug with offset hole facing UP to test the threads. Remove the bush.
Mix a very small batch of resin and separate it into 2 portions and then use one portion to coat
the thread in the bush mounting hole in the wing lug and then coat the outside of the eccentric
bush. Add flock to the other portion and apply a small amount to the bush and then screw the
bush back into the lug, ending when the bush is centred in the lug with offset hole facing UP.
Wipe away all excess flock and lower the wing lug and bush back into the fuselage lugs and
place the length of wire through the holes in the lugs and the bush.
Repeat the process for the rear bush, first test fitting the bush dry and then fitting it with resin
and flock, but this time end with the offset hole in the bush facing DOWN.
Wipe away all excess flock and lower the wing lug and bush back into the fuselage lugs and
hold in place with the wire. Leave the flock overnight to cure.
The next day fit the wing bolt though the lugs and the new bush. Refit the flat washers to the
bolts as before. Remove the wire from the front bush and refit the wing bolt and flat washers.
Fit new Nyloc nuts to each wing bolt and tighten to safety. Do not reuse these nuts.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THESE BOLTS. They should be just tight enough to prevent
rotation. Over tightening may result in failure of the wing attach lugs.
Refit the wing root fairings. Retest the aircraft and, if required, make any small roll
corrections by adjusting each flap individually.
4. Adjusting the Flaps
Use this procedure if the aircraft shows a tendency to roll in straight and level flight and not
just before the point of stall in a clean configuration as mentioned in the previous step then
minor adjustments may be made to each flap individually.
If the aircraft rolls to the left then the left flap may be lowered slightly, or the right flap may
be raised slightly. If the aircraft rolls to the right then the right flap may be lowered slightly,
or the left flap may be raised slightly.
Remove the wing root fairings as required to gain access to the flap pushrods. Remove the rod
end connecting bolt from the drive yoke, loosen the lock nut and move the top rod end in or
out and then refit the rod end to the drive yoke, tighten the lock nut. Refit the wing root
fairings before each test flight.
It is not possible to predict the amount of adjustment required as each case will be different,
but as a general guide try moving a rod end one full turn and then test fly that configuration to
see if more or less adjustment is required. Take careful note of each change and the effect on
the flying qualities of the aircraft.
If, for example, down adjustment becomes a problem on one flap then adjust the other flap up.
If it becomes necessary to adjust the flap end of the pushrod, remove the flap to do so.
Care must be taken: the threaded end of the rod end must always be visible through the safety
holes in each end of the pushrod, the rod end lock nuts must be tightened against each end of
the pushrod and the Nyloc nut on the connecting bolt through the drive yoke should be
replaced before each test flight.

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Testing>Flight testing
Sequence #3 Performance and handling
Print and use the Flight Testing form Sequence #3 for each test flight in this sequence.
If all of the rigging corrections in Sequence #2 have been done correctly and all equipment
performs correctly then this sequence will usually only require one flight.
Record the date and engine hours as well as the wind direction and strength, the OAT, the
Runway in use and the local QNH.
Loading rules
This Sequence is performed with either:

Pilot weighing 100 Kg or less and 100 litres of fuel; or

Pilot and 1 passenger for a combined weight of 172Kg or less and 50 litres of fuel.

Stalls
Climb at 80 KIAS using full power to 3000 feet AGL or higher, watching the engine
instrumentation for any tendency towards overheating. If temperatures get near to the top of
the green range increase airspeed to 90 KIAS improve the cooling airflow, and if temperatures
are still too high then reduce power as required. Once established in a suitable test area,
perhaps directly over the airfield, stall testing can start. During the course of the stall testing it
will be necessary to climb back to the starting altitude from time to time.
The stalls are performed in the configurations listed on page 1 of the Flight Testing form
Sequence #3.
Each stall is started from 60 KIAS and the aircraft is decelerated at a constant rate of 1 knot
per second until the wing is fully stalled, which will require an increasing rearward rate of
movement of the control stick.
Record the Indicated Airspeed (IAS) at which each stall occurs.
If anything out of the ordinary occurs during the stall testing phase record it in the Notes
section at the end of the form.
Trim Speed Range
In the cruise configuration (2800-2900 rpm) record the trim speeds achieved at the full aft and
full forward trim lever positions. Trim speed limitations are 50-65 KIAS in the aft trim
position and 90-140 KIAS for the forward trim position.
In the approach configuration (full flap, engine at idle: 1000-1200 rpm) record the trim speeds
achieved at the full aft and full forward trim lever positions. Trim speed limitations are: 60-70
KIAS in the aft trim position, and then trim forward until the airspeed reaches the end of the
white arc (VFE) on the ASI.
Glide at 62 KIAS
Retract the flaps, reduce the power to idle and trim the aircraft for a 62 KIAS glide.
Note the controllability and if the controls are rigged properly.
VNE
Descend under power, typically 2700-2900 rpm, and approach VNE in small speed increases.
Note any vibration or buffeting as well as the overall controllability of the aircraft.
Do not exceed VNE under any circumstances.
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Testing>Flight testing
Maximum Power Flight
Descend to 1000 feet AGL, set the altimeter subscale to 1013.2 hPa and record the Pressure
Altitude and OAT.
With the engine at wide open throttle and the aircraft in straight and level flight, record the
indicated airspeed and engine rpm and the EOP, EOT, CHT and EGT (if fitted).
Timed Climb
Set the aircraft up in the cruise configuration at 2800-2900 rpm. Record the Pressure Altitude,
which will also be the start height, and the OAT.
With the engine at wide open throttle and the aircraft trimmed to 80 KIAS, record the time
taken to climb 1000 ft, the indicated rate of climb, the engine rpm and the EOP, EOT, CHT
and EGT (if fitted).
Set the altimeter subscale back to the local QNH that you recorded before takeoff.
General
Record your observations of the following:

Lateral & Directional Control Rigging

Lateral & Directional Rigging and Trim

Lateral & Directional Stability and Control

Longitudinal Static Stability

Equipment
Test and record the operation and performance of the VHF comm(s), the transponder (if
fitted), the GPS (if fitted), all flight and engine instrumentation and any other fitted equipment
such as strobe and Nav lighting or UHF comm.
Ground handling during and after landing
When landing check that the undercarriage does not have any unusual noises, that the aircraft
is easily controlled on the runway and that the brakes work evenly when applied.
Post flight
Immediately after landing and securing the aircraft record your observations of the overall
characteristics of the aircraft and its systems as well as calculating the total engine hours and
the fuel consumption rate.
When you are satisfied that the aircraft performs satisfactorily then this completes the
Testing>Flight testing task and signals the end of this Manual as well.
The future
Congratulations, you have achieved something that most people can only dream about: you
have built and flown your very own aircraft! This is a significant achievement and one that
you can be justifiably proud of. Well done!
Please drop us a line here at Jabiru and tell us all about it, we would love to know.
We are sure that you will have many enjoyable hours of flying your very own Jabiru aircraft
and we are equally sure that you will enjoy the low operating costs as well as the pleasurable
flying characteristics that all Jabirus share.

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Testing>Forms

Testing>Forms
Objectives of this task:
This final task of the Constructors Manual contains a set of forms that are intended be used to
record the details of your new Jabiru aircraft and all of the flight testing sequences.
The first form, Aircraft Identification, should be used to record the serial numbers of all
components: the kit number, engine serial number, propeller details and all instrumentation.
The other forms should be used in conjunction with the preceding task Flight Testing.
Taken as a group these forms should be kept as a permanent record.

Abbreviations
Here is a listing of common abbreviations that are used throughout these forms:
AGL

Above Ground Level

AH

Artificial Horizon

ALT

Altimeter

CHT

Cylinder Head Temperature

EFIS

Electronic Flight Information System

EGT

Exhaust Gas Temperature

EMS

Engine Management System

EOP

Engine Oil Pressure

EOT

Engine Oil Temperature

ETC

Electric Turn Co-ordinator

GPS

Global Positioning System

IAS

Indicated Air Speed

ISA

International Standard Atmosphere: 1013.2 hPa, 15C

KIAS

Knots Indicated Air Speed

MAG

Magneto - engine ignition system

OAT

Outside Air Temperature

P. ALT

Pressure Altitude: the indicated ALT at ISA conditions

RPM

Revolutions Per Minute - engine speed

RWY

Runway

UHF

Ultra High Frequency - sometimes used for remote area comms

VHF

Very High Frequency - standard aircraft comms

VSI

Vertical Speed Indicator

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Testing>Forms

Aircraft Identification
Owner

Phone

Address

Mobile
Fax

Model

Registration

Kit #

Engine Serial number

Propeller: Jabiru / Sensenich

Size x Pitch

(Cross out one)

Serial Number

Flight instrumentation
Make/Serial number

Serial number

ASI

EFIS
/AH

ALT
VSI

GPS

ETC

Engine instrumentation
Jabiru #

Make/Serial number

EMS

Serial number

TACH
EOP
EOT
CHT
EGT
VOLT

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Testing>Forms

Sequence #1 Ground run

WIND

Date
Engine hours start

OAT
Pilot

Run up - 2000 rpm

rpm drop

Engine parameters

(200rpm max)

Left MAG

EOP

CHT

Right MAG

EOT

EGT
All in the green range

Carb Heat

Full power check

Engine parameters

Maximum sustained rpm

2975 3050 rpm

EOP

CHT

EOT

EGT

Restrict the full power run to less than 2

minutes total time

All in the green range

Idle check
Engine parameters

Idle rpm
800 - 900 rpm

Allow the engine to run at 1200 rpm for

2 minutes and then check the idle

Taxi tests

EOP

CHT

EOT

EGT
All in the green range

Notes

Brakes both pull evenly

and release with no drag
Steering: tracks straight
into wind with feet off
Steering: left and right
turns are equal radius

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Testing>Forms

Sequence #2 Rigging
Date

WIND

Engine hours start

OAT
P. ALT

RWY

Loading

1013.2 hPa

Full power climb at 80 KIAS

Pilot

Engine RPM
2900 3050 rpm

Pilot only, no PAX,

20 litres of fuel per side

No

Does the aircraft fly

straight and level
with the ball centred?

EOP

CHT

EOT

EGT

Yes

Are the rudder

pedals displaced?

LEFT

Yes

RIGHT
1

Which pedal is BACK?

No
Is rudder pressure
needed to keep
the ball centred?

LEFT

Yes

RIGHT
2

Which pedal?

No

Is there any
tendency to roll
or turn?
No

Yes

Does the aircraft

roll just before
the stall?

LEFT
Yes

RIGHT
3

Which way?

No
LEFT

Rigging is
correct

RIGHT
4

Which way?

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Testing>Forms

Sequence #3 Performance & handling

page 1 of 3

Date

WIND

Engine hours start

RWY

OAT
QNH

Loading
Loading rules - either:
Pilot < 100Kg only: 100 litres fuel; or
Pilot and 1 PAX to 172Kg total: 50 litres fuel

Pilot
PAX

Stalls
All stalls are started from 3000 feet AGL or above, starting from 60 KIAS.
Airspeed is decreased at a constant rate of 1 knot per second until the aircraft is
fully stalled and the IAS at the point of stall is recorded below.

NO Flap

IDLE
power

HALF Flap

Straight Ahead
30 Bank to LEFT
30 Bank to RIGHT

FULL Flap

Straight Ahead
30 Bank to LEFT
30 Bank to RIGHT

NO Flap

FULL
power

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Straight Ahead: [40 50]

30 Bank to LEFT
30 Bank to RIGHT

Straight Ahead: [38 45]

30 Bank to LEFT
30 Bank to RIGHT

HALF Flap

Straight Ahead
30 Bank to LEFT
30 Bank to RIGHT

FULL Flap

Straight Ahead
30 Bank to LEFT
30 Bank to RIGHT

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Testing>Forms

Sequence #3 Performance & handling

page 2 of 3

Trim test
Cruise power, clean

Idle, full flap

AFT [50-65 KIAS]

FWD [90-140 KIAS]

AFT [60-70 KIAS]

FWD [end of white arc]

Glide at 62 KIAS
Controllability
Glide engine RPM

Control rigging
[1000-1200rpm]

VNE 2700-2900 RPM

Vibration

Buffeting

Controllability

Control rigging

Full power, Straight & Level

IAS at full power

P. ALT
1013.2 hPa

RPM at full power

OAT

CHT

EOP

EGT

EOT

Timed climb at 80 KIAS

Start P. ALT
1013.2 hPa

Finish P. ALT

OAT

Time to climb 1000 ft

sec

CHT

EOP

Rate of climb (indicated)

fpm

EGT

EOT

General
Lateral & Directional
Control Rigging

Lateral & Directional

Stability and Control

Lateral & Directional

Rigging and Trim

Longitudinal Static
Stability

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Testing>Forms

Sequence #3 Performance & handling

page 3 of 3

Equipment
VHF Comm #1
operation

VHF Comm #2
operation

Transponder operation

GPS operation

Instrumentation

Other equipment:
Lights, UHF, etc

Ground handling
Control - landing

Brakes - landing

Control - taxi

Brakes - taxi

Undercarriage

Steering

Post flight review

Trim and handling
characteristics satisfactory?

Engine operation throughout

satisfactory?

Stalls satisfactory?

Stability satisfactory?

Control rigging satisfactory?

Avionics operation throughout
satisfactory?

Instrumentation operation
throughout satisfactory?

Engine hours finish

Fuel used

Engine hours total

Fuel consumption rate

L/hr

Notes

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