Textile Research Journal
Textile Research Journal
{SAGE}TRJ/TRJ 435851.3d
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Article
Abstract
In this study, it was aimed to investigate the relationship between different knitted structures and some thermophysiological comfort parameters. Wetting, wicking and drying properties of single jersey, 1 1 rib, 2 2 rib and
interlock knitted fabrics made out of acrylic yarns were studied and experimental wicking height, wicking weight, transfer
wicking ratio, contact angle and WER (water evaporation rate) values were measured. Samples were produced in two
different tightness values to obtain slack and tight fabrics for all structures. Some comfort-related parameters were
correlated with structural parameters of fabrics such as fabric tightness factor, thickness, porosity, loop length and pore
size etc. The statistical analysis results indicate that the effect of the knitted structure is significant for wicking height,
wicking weight, contact angle values, transfer wicking ratios and WER values. Wicking height increases depending on
knitted structures namely, single jersey, 1 1 rib, interlock and 2 2 rib, respectively. Slack fabrics have longer loop
lengths with higher porosity values and higher pore sizes for all knitted structures. Slack structures of 2 2 rib, 1 1 rib,
interlock and single jersey knits have higher transfer wicking ratios when compared with their tight structures. WER is
inversely related with fabric thickness. It decreased with an increase of thickness due to increase of compactness and
decrease of air space. All tight knitted structures have higher contact angles than their slack forms due to compactness of
the surface.
Keywords
comfort, acrylic, knitted structures, wicking, drying
Introduction
Knitting structures are important due to several advantages such as comfort, high elasticity, conformity with
the shape of the body, softer touches, lightweight,
warmth, wrinkle resistance, and ease of care. etc. It is
well known that the physical properties of fabrics are
dependent on their yarn properties and fabric construction parameters. Construction parameters, such as neness of yarns, density and the type of knitted structure,
control the texture and surface topography of
fabrics.15
Thermo-physiological comfort is one of the considerations of clothing comfort. The thermo-physiological
comfort of a garment is related to several parameters:
lightness, thermal resistance, heat and water vapor
transport, sweat absorption, wind impermeability and
drying. Investigating the relationships between fabric
structure and permeability to water vapor/water (i.e.
sweat) is stimulating interest. The ability of clothing
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Code
Fabric
structure
Thickness,
mm
Weight per
unit area,
g/m2
Loop
length,
cm
Stitch
density,
loops/cm2
Tightness
factor,
tex1/2/cm
Porosity,
%
Pore
size, cm
Stiffness
(Newton/
cm2)
SJ-Slack
SJ-S
Single jersey
1.72 0.07
326.8
0.890
4.42 6 26.52
9.494
0.702
0.101
0.438028
SJ-Tight
SJ-T
Single jersey
1.768 0.07
342.2
0.780
4.40 7 30.8
10.833
0.705
0.094
0.538221
R(1 1)-Slack
1 1R-S
1 1 rib
2.152 0.01
365.5
0.630
9 8 72
13.413
0.542
0.058
0.498561
R(1 1)-Tight
Int-Slack
1 1R-T
Int-S
1 1 rib
Interlock
1.934 0.07
2.45 0.08
394.5
429.1
0.477
0.300
11 11 121
11 8 88
17.715
28.167
0.352
0.766
0.042
0.051
0.567444
0.93273
Int-Tight
Int-T
Interlock
2.454 0.07
519.1
0.290
12.2 9 109.8
29.138
0.723
0.046
1.350201
R(2 2)-Slack
2 2R-S
2 2 rib
2.778 0.03
391
0.563
12 9 108
15.009
0.525
0.033
0.37332
R(2 2)-Tight
2 2R-T
2 2 rib
2.734 0.09
483
0.525
12.3 10 123
16.095
0.487
0.029
0.567444
0.11
30
1.4
0.10
1.2
0.09
20
15
1.0
0.08
Stiffness
Pore size
Tightness Factor
25
0.07
0.06
0.04
10
0.4
0.03
0.2
0.02
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
Loop length
0.7
0.8
0.8
0.6
0.05
0.3
90.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
Loop length
0.8
0.9
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
Loop length
0.8
0.9
Figure 1. Correlation of loop length with tightness factor, pore size and stiffness.
Hasan et al.4 reported that topographical characteristics of the fabrics strongly depend on their construction parameters such as the type and neness of
laments, yarn neness, yarn density, warp and weft
density and the type of weave. Oglakcioglu et al.25
investigated thermal comfort properties of some knitted structures (single jersey, 1 1 rib, interlock) and
reported that each knitted structure tends to yield
rather dierent thermal comfort properties. Ucar
et al.26 investigated the eects of rib design on thermal
properties of rib fabrics by using three dierent rib
structures (1 1, 2 2, 3 3) and reported that with
increasing density, air permeability and heat loss
decreases. Ramachandran et al.27 investigated the
thermal behavior of ring and compact spun yarn
single jersey, rib and interlock knitted fabrics and
studied the relationship between thermal properties
and some physical characteristics such as thickness,
tightness factor, density and permeability. They concluded that the thermal properties show a decreasing
trend as the fabric thickness, tightness factor and
fabric aerial density values increase. Emirhanova
et al.28 investigated the eects of the knitted structure
on the dimensional and physical properties of winter
outerwear knitted fabrics. Crow and Osczevski29
reported that the amount of water that wicked from
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Table 2. Experimental wicking height, wicking weight, transfer wicking ratio, contact angle and WER values
Number
Code
Short
code
Wicking weight, g
Walewise
Walewise
Coursewise
Transfer
wicking
ratio, %
Contact
angle,
WER at
75 min
Coursewise
SJ-Slack
SJ-S
12.07 0.09
10.63 0.07
3.013 0.11
3.004 0.08
14.77 0.17
73.6
0.876 0.05
SJ-Tight
SJ-T
11.20 0.08
10.93 0.18
2.932 0.12
2.930 0.25
10.78 0.2
88.93
0.869 0.05
R(1 1)-Slack
1 1R-S
12.37 0.04
9.62 0.07
3.384 0.08
3.039 0.14
14.98 0.17
75.69
0.847 0.08
R(1 1)-Tight
1 1R-T
12.13 0.09
9.67 0.07
3.042 0.05
2.793 0.05
4.65 0.28
96.4
0.841 0.03
Int-Slack
Int-S
12.53 0.17
11.67 0.07
4.268 0.08
4.212 0.07
6.81 0.20
71.14
0.784 0.07
Int-Tight
Int-T
12.27 0.12
12.40 0.07
4.238 0.07
3.392 0.06
5.53 0.21
76.79
0.710 0.08
R(2 2)-Slack
2 2R-S
13.10 0.09
10.40 0.57
4.068 0.12
3.248 0.07
32.25 0.28
99.01
0.693 0.06
R(2 2)-Tight
2 2R-T
12.90 0.09
10.30 0.07
3.917 0.04
3.340 0.09
28.40 0.18
118.26
0.705 0.02
Experimental
The fabric samples were produced using 28/2 Nm
acrylic yarns. Single jersey, interlock, 1 1 rib and
2 2 rib fabric samples were knitted in two dierent
tightness levels, i.e. slack and tight, with the same
machine settings. The specimens were knitted with the
same yarn tension and cam setting by using 7 ne, 672
needle Shima Seiki SES 124S V bed at knitting
machine. Before the measurements and tests, the samples were conditioned in standard atmospheric conditions (20 2 C, 65 5% relative humidity) for two
days. All tests were carried out in standard atmosphere.
Fabric tightness factor were determined by the equation (TF T1/2/l; where T is the linear density of yarn
in tex and l is the loop length in cm) used by
Ramachandran et al.27 Porosity and pore size values
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Pearson
correlation
coefficient
p-value
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
0.781
0.798
0.838
0.859
0.686
0.022
0.018
0.009
0.006
0.003
height-pore size
height-porosity
height-stiffness
height-thickness
height-density
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Figure 4. Vertical wicking ability of the fabrics at 10 min, comparison of wale and course directions.
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Pearson
correlation
coefficient
p-value
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
Wicking
0.777
0.604
0.574
0.767
0.553
0.728
0.521
0.515
0.638
0.679
0.000
0.013
0.02
0.001
0.026
0.001
0.039
0.041
0.008
0.004
weight-loop length
weight-density
weight-tiffness
weight-tightness factor
weight-thickness
weight-tightness factor
weight-porosity
weight-stiffness
weight-loop length
weight-pore size
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0.5
0.4
0.3
0.2
0.1
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
Thickness, mm
2.6
2.8
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0.90
WER at 75 min, %
0.85
0.80
0.75
0.70
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
Thickness, mm
2.4
2.6
2.8
0.90
0.90
b
WER at 75 min, %
WER at 75 min, %
a
0.85
0.80
0.75
0.85
0.80
0.75
0.70
0.70
0.02
0.03
0.04
0.05
0.09
0.10
0.11
20
40
60
80
Density, loops/cm2
120
0.90
0.90
WER at 75 min, %
c
WER at 75 min, %
100
0.85
0.80
d
0.85
0.80
0.75
0.75
0.70
0.70
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
Loop length, cm
0.8
0.9
10
15
20
25
Tightness factor, Tex1/2/cm
Figure 10. The relationship between (a) pore size, (b) density, (c) loop length, (d) tightness factor, and WER.
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Figure 6 that transfer wicking ratio values of the samples increase depending on knit structure namely, 1 1
rib, interlock, single jersey and 2 2 rib, respectively.
As can be seen in Table 1, slack fabrics have longer
loop lengths with higher porosity values and higher
pore sizes for all the knitted structures. Slack forms
of 2 2 rib, 1 1 rib, interlock and single jersey structures have higher transfer wicking ratios compared to
their tight forms. Similar results were reported for
transfer wicking of slack fabrics comparing them with
their tight forms by Cil et al.33 who studied the eects
of the composition, the yarn number and the thickness
on some comfort properties of cotton-acrylic fabrics. It
was concluded in Ramachandrans study that the material which has good transverse wicking will increase the
wearing comfort21 and that the thickness of the material governs the transverse wicking. There is a correlation between the transfer wicking properties and the
thickness for our samples (Figure 7, correlation coecient 0.507 p-value 0.045) as reported before in the
study of Ramachandran.
Pearson
correlation
coefficient
p-value
WER-thickness
WER-pore size
WER-density
WER- loop length
WER-Tightness factor
0.946
0.793
0.745
0.616
0.513
0.000
0.000
0.001
0.011
0.042
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10
120
120
110
110
Contact angle,
Contact angle,
100
90
80
100
90
80
70
70
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
Porosity,%
0.7
0.8
20
40
60
80
Density, loops/cm2
100
120
120
Contact angle,
110
100
90
80
70
0.02
0.03
0.04
0.05
0.09
0.10
0.11
Figure 12. The relationship between pore size, density, porosity and contact angle values.
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11
Conclusions
The statistical analysis results indicate that there is an
inverse correlation between pore size and wicking
height. Slack forms of 2 2 rib, 1 1 rib, interlock
and single jersey structures have higher transfer wicking
ratios compared to their tight forms. The statistical
analysis results also indicate that the WER is inversely
related to the fabric thickness. All tight knitted structures have higher contact angles than their slack forms
due to higher compactness of the surface. The test
results revealed that the parameters of comfort are signicantly aected by knitted structure.
Funding
This research received no specic grant from any funding
agency in the public, commercial, or not-for-prot sectors.
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