GRADUATION PROJECT

VASWEE DUBEY

SHEIKH KASHIF FAIZ

PROBLEM AREA - PRODUCTION AND CAPACITY PLANNING.

PROBLEM STATEMENT - TIME TAKEN FOR CAPACITY AND PRODUCTION
PLANNING WHICH HAS TO BE DONE FOR EACH ORDER IN THE FACTORY IS
HIGH.
PROJECT OBJECTIVE - TO CREATE AN EQUATION TO PREDICT THE TIME
REQUIRED FOR AN ORDER TO PROCESS IN THE DIFFERENT SECTIONS OF
GARMENT PRODUCTION FLOOR .
KEYWORDS - Capacity Planning ; Influence Factors; Time Calculations
INTRODUCTION
To face and solve the problems of clothing industry, the efficiency of each
link in apparel production must be enhanced. Research on predication of
apparel production capacity is important for clothing enterprises to
arrange the production planning, increase the production efficiency, and
save production cost, so it has practical significance in clothing industry.
Enhancing the forecasts of the production capacity has a great
significance on reasonable arrangements for production planning, and
improves the efficiency of garment production.
In this project , the main processes of garment production aspect are
analyzed, and categorized under three main sections : (a) cutting ; (b)
stitching ; and (c) finishing. The best factors influencing each process are
investigated through correlation analysis and the major factor equation is
established by regression analysis. The total time required for the three
above mentioned sections can be calculated each hence total production
time can be added by adding respective time allowances to the processes.
TIMELINE
ACTIVITIES WEE
K1
CONCEPTU
ALISE THE
PROJECT
LITERATURE
REVIEW
DATA

WEE
K2

WEE
K3

WEE
K4

WEE
K5

WEE
K6

WEE
K7

WEE
K8

COLLECTIO
N
DATA
ANALYSIS
SOFTWARE
DEVELOPM
ENT
LITERATURE REVIEWIn the value chain of global clothing, the clothing value chain includes material
handling, product design, textile production, ready-to wear manufacture and
marketing. According to statistics, the appropriation of profits in clothing value
chain is as follows, shown in Figure : design of 40%, marketing of 50%, and
production of 10%. The Figure shows that, design and marketing is high end of
clothing value chain, while production is low side. In developed country, all
garment enterprises turn to the high end of clothing value chain to realize the
upgrade of clothing industry. When they build marketing network, their own
garment production network is allocated at the same time to realize order
globalization and production globalization . They have their own brand, and
entrust developing countries with original equipment.

To face and solve the problems of clothing industry, the efficiency of each link in
apparel production must be enhanced. Research on predication of apparel
production capacity is important for clothing enterprises to arrange the
production planning, increase the production efficiency, and save production
cost, so it has practical significance in clothing industry . Apparel technology and
quality are the most essential demand, when the consumers are choosing
clothes. With the development of technology, modern knitwear have overcome
many disadvantages, and the advantages have been expanded and used to
receive the recognition of most consumers because of unique style routes . The
knitwear has been dressed more and more, so they play a important role in
underwear, T-shirts and sweaters.

Production processes in a garment manufacturing unit :

 Marker Making:
The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for
each style and size of garment. Computer software helps the technicians
create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used
efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to
the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid
in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting
operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of
how much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of
garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this step.
Computer marking is done on specialized softwares. In computerized
marking there is no need of large paper sheets for calculating the
yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how
much fabric is required.
Spreading:
With the help of spreading machines, fabric is stacked on one another in
reaches or lays that may go over 100 ft (30.5 m) long and hundreds of
plies (fabric pieces) thick.
Cutting:
The fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable for
the type of the cloth. These can be band cutters having similar work
method like that of band saws; cutters having rotary blades; machines
having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; die clickers similar to
die or punch press; or computerized machines that use either blades or
laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes.
Sorting/Bundling:
The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes
bundles of them. This step requires much precision because making
bundles of mismatched patterns can create severe problems. On each
bundle there are specifications of the style size and the marker too is
attached with it.
Sewing/Assembling:
The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment
manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics
on contract to other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because
one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the other hand

if contractors are hired keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the

contactor is one who precisely controls the process.
There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the
cut pieces. In this workplace, there are many operators who perform a
single operation. One operator may make only straight seams, while
another may make sleeve insets. Yet another two operators can sew the
waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various industrial sewing machines
too have different types of stitches that they can make. These machines
also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work
sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine,
while the gang machines have multiple machines performing the same
operation supervised by a single operator. All these factors decide what
parts of a garment can be sewn at that station. Finally, the sewn parts of
the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are assembled together to give
the final form to the clothing.
Inspection:
Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and
missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread
tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects which can affect
the garment quality adversely. During processing the quality control
section needs to check each prepared article against these defects.
Pressing/ Finishing:
The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Molding may
be done to change the finished surface of the garment by applying
pressure, heat, moisture, or certain other combination. Pressing, pleating
and creasing are the basic molding processes. Creasing is mostly done
before other finishing processes like that of stitching a cuff. Creasing is
also done before decorating the garment with something like a pocket,
appliqus, embroidered emblems etc.
Vertical and form presses is automated machines. Perform simple pressing
operations, such as touching up wrinkles in knit shirts, around embroidery
and snaps, and at difficult-to-reach places on garments.
Final Inspection:
For the textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms
of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness,
designs and the final finished garments. Quality control in terms of
garment manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales service, delivery,
pricing, etc are essential for any garment manufacturer, trader or

exporter. Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment

manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or garment defects should never
be over looked.
What is capacity planning :
Capacity planning is the process of determining the production capacity needed by an
organization to meet changing demands for its products.[1] In the context of capacity planning,
design capacity is the maximum amount of work that an organization is capable of completing in
a given period. The productive capacity of a factory is being used in generation of goods.
Therefore, it refers to the relationship between actual output that is produced with the installed
equipment and manpower, and the potential output which could be produced with it, if capacity
was fully used.
Produced garments or Produced minutes Capacity in terms of garments or minutes X 100
Capacity utilization = If the factory makes standard product, capacity can be expressed in
terms of number of pieces.
Lead Time: The lead time is the time period between the placement of an order and the
shipment of the completed order to the customer. A short manufacturing lead time is a
competitive advantage; many customers want the delivery of their products as soon as possible
following the placement of the order. Lead time consists of waiting time before or after actual
manufacturing and throughput time. There has been a huge demand to reduce lead times for
quicker reach of the product to the market.
Overtime Percentage: The percentage of overtime being used over total working time. As
overtime costs considerable amount of money to the company, a tight control should be kept on
overtime percentage. Total overtime minutes Total working minutes

Factors influencing time study for each process :

Spreading SAM

Conduct time study and measure cycle time for fabric spreading. Convert
cycle time into standard time. Spreading time will vary depending on layer
length (and/or number of markers) and type of fabric. To be specific record
spreading SAM based on lay length and fabric type. Also record number
layer-man involved in layering. Once you have standard minutes for
spreading of a layer, you can easily calculate total time required for
spreading a lay by multiplying number of layers in a lay. Refer to the
following table to record spreading SAM.
Table 1: Spreading SAM record sheet
Sq.
no.

Style
No.

Fabric
type

Lay
length
(meters)

#1
#2

Marker making SAM

Marker
size

No. of layer
man

SAM/layer

Maker making required few minutes and compared to other cutting

processes this time is negligible. In case you need to determine marker
making SAM and want to add in total cutting SAM, I am showing you how
to do it. If CAD marker is used then do cycle time of lying of the paper
maker on the lay and fixing the maker with gum tape.
For manual marking determine standard time through time study. In
manual marker making time varies depending on garment components,
garment size and number of markers. Record the number of persons
involved in marker making. Refer to the following table to record marker
making SAM values.
Table 2: Marker making SAM record sheet
Sq
.
no
.
#
1
#
2

Style
No.

Garmen
t size

Marker
size

Total
component
s / size

SAM/la No. of
y
marker
man

Cutting SAM

Conduct time study for cutting operation. Total cutting time of a lay will
depends on garment components, linear length to be cut for garment
patterns, marker size and type of fabric. Cutting time also depends on
cutting equipments. Record time study data in the following table. Study
cutting time for all sizes in a lay and find average SAM. Cover all sizes in
time study. Create database of cutting SAM with different combination of
cutting for future use.
Table 2: Cutting SAM record sheet
Sq
.
no
.
#
1
#
2

Style
No.

Fabric
type

Marker
size

Total
compone
nts / size

Lay
length
(meter
s)

SAM/la
y

SAM /
Garme
nt

Fusing SAM

Set temperature and pressure of the fusing machine for a certain speed of
fusing belt. You can do here reverse calculation. Instead of time study
record operator speed for placing cut components (to be fused) in a
minute. Once you get production per minute you can SAM per garment
(based on number of fused components) by using formula 1/no. of parts
fused per minutes.

Re-cutting SAM
Re-cutting is also done by other equipment such as hand scissors or band
knife machine than straight knife cutting machine. Follow same
procedures of determining cutting SAM for re-cutting SAM. For re-cutting
process SAM can be presented per lay or per garment. Also consider
whether all components need to re-cut or only few components.
For the other cutting room processes like, Sorting, ticketing and bundling
determine SAM as per unit as mentioned in the following table.

To calculate Daily production capacity (in pieces) one needs following

information.
1. Factory capacity in hours
2. Product SAM
3. Line efficiency (Average)

1. Calculation of factory capacity (in hours): Check how many machines

factory has and how many hours factory runs in a day.

2. Calculation of Product SAM (SAM): Make a list of product category that

you manufacture and get standard minutes (SAM) of all products you make from
work study engineers. If you dont have product SAM then calculate the SAM.
Production capacity (in pieces) = (Capacity in hours*60/product
SAM)*line efficiency

Allowances given :
1. Relaxation Allowance:
Relaxation allowance is the most essential part of the time added to the
basic time. Fixed allowances consist of the allowances given for personnel
needs or desire. These personnel needs includes going for watching
getting a drink etc. The usual percentage of the personnel allowances is
7%.
2. Contingency Allowances:
It is also known as delay allowance for -breakdowns, of machines,
shortage of raw materials, etc. Some other minor works may come up
occasionally for example, checking the machine setting, rework and
measurement. The amount of the contingency allowances to be added is
expressed as a percentage of basic time. Usually, it is taken as 5%. These
allowances are to be added only when the analyst is completely satisfied
that the minor extra work or the unavoidable delays cannot be eliminated.

PURPOSE
This program predicts time required by major activities in the product
process for an order in the specified factory. Therefore, it can find its
application in PRODUCTION PLANNING PROCESS. The software helps in :

Various aspects of cutting capacity measurement

Stitching capacity measurement
Finishing capacity measurement
Total production time
Determining time delays for each process

PROJECT DESCRIPTION In this project , the main processes of garment production aspect are
analyzed, and categorized under three main sections :
(a) CUTTING - SPREADING TIME
NOTCHING AND INSPECTION TIME

BUNDLING TIME
CUTTING TIME;

MARKING TIME

(b) STITCHING ;
(c) FINISHING IRONING

FOLDING .

The best factors influencing each process are investigated through

correlation analysis and the major factor equation is established by
regression analysis. The total time required for the three above mentioned
sections can be calculated each hence total production time can be added
by adding respective time allowances to the processes.
1. Relaxation Allowance:
The usual percentage of the personnel allowances is 7%.
2. Contingency Allowances:
Usually, it is taken as 5%. These allowances are to be added only when
the analyst is completely satisfied that the minor extra work or the
unavoidable delays cannot be eliminated.

DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS :

Cutting Section :

RESEARCH IDEA
RESEARCH QUESTION

RESEARCH OBJECTIVE

RESEARCH APPROACH
RESEARCH STRATEGY
TIME HORIZON

Factors affecting various activities

in the cutting room
What are the factors that
significantly affect cutting?
In which ratio do they effect
cutting section time?
Establish relationship between the
factors affecting various activities
of cutting room individually.
Inductive
observation
longitudinal

A field survey is carried out to get the cutting time (including only value
added time) of knitted garment. Ten groups of total time on the cutting
aspects of knitted garment are investigated. Through correlation analysis
of the data, the major factors which influence the knitted garment cutting
mostly are got. And then the formula of the major factors can be
established by regression analysis. So the formula of the knitted garment
total cutting time can be deduced.
Stitching Section: deductive research
Since stitching time is garment dependent , time study was conducted for
the most produced garment styles and their SAM values were recorded
and made standards for further calculations. The calculation of stitching
time is based on:
1. Factory capacity in hours
2. Product SAM
3. Line efficiency (Average)

And can be calculated by the formulae :

Production capacity (in pieces) = (Capacity in hours*60/product
SAM)*line efficiency

Time taken to stitch a given order = (factory capacity in

hours*60/production capacity) * no. of pieces specified in order.
Finishing Section :
RESEARCH IDEA
RESEARCH QUESTION

Factors affecting various activities

in the finishing section
What are the factors that
significantly affect finishing
processes?
In which ratio do they effect total

RESEARCH OBJECTIVE

RESEARCH APPROACH
RESEARCH STRATEGY
TIME HORIZON

finishing section time?

Establish relationship between the
factors affecting various activities
of finishing section individually.
inductive
Observation
Longitudinal

A field survey is carried out to get the finishing time (including only value
added time) of knitted garment. Ten groups of total time on the finishing
aspects of knitted garment are investigated. Through correlation analysis
of the data, the major factors which influence the knitted garment
finishing mostly are got. And then the formula of the major factors can be
established by regression analysis. So the formula of the knitted garment
total finishing time can be deduced.
IMPLEMENTATION INTO PROGRAMMING:
The interface system in consideration to be used is Dreamweaver or MS
Excel. In order to make the enterprise predict each batch of knitted
apparel in cutting project needs time more quickly, to arrange production
plan, not affect the delivery time, to avoid unnecessary losses, this
prediction system is specially developed.
STARTING
STARTING

MAIN
MAIN
INTERFACE
INTERFACE

PREDICTION
PREDICTION
INTERFACE
INTERFACE

FILL
FILL IN
IN
VALUE
OF
VALUE OF
FACTORS
FACTORS

CALCULATIO
CALCULATIO
NS
NS

GET
RESULTS
GET RESULTS

According to the formula , a forecast system is made. After verification,

the prediction system can be used to predict the clothing enterprises
knitted garment cutting operation time and thereby the production
schedule. The products could be delivered on time to reduce the
unnecessary loss.
METHODOLOGY
1. Deduction from literature review :
a. Major processes influencing time cutting , stitching ,
finishing.
b. Sub processes for each process
cutting
Spreading
Marking
Cutting

stitching
Based on the
operation

finishing
Ironing
Folding

END
END

Fusing
Testing
Bundling
Ticketing

breakdown of the
garment

Packaging

c. Factors influencing each sub process.

2. Time taken by each sub process is recorded by a Time Study.
3. Correlation analysis for time taken by each process is done to
ensure which sub processes majorly affect the process time.
4. Production time for these sub processes each. This is calculated by a
correlation analysis of each sub process and the factors influencing
it.

5. Time for each sub process is calculated by generating a regression

equation for the sub process.
6. Total process time is generated by adding the time from each sub
process.
7. Total time taken to manufacture the order is the total of all major
process time.
8. Implementation into software.
LIMITATIONS
This software is based on the observations made in one factory therefore,
is not be applicable to every small /medium garment manufacturing unit.
REFERENCE CHART
SR. NO.

ARTICLE NAME

AUTHOR

PAGE

FINDINGS

S
M. Ghiassia,
C. Spera,
Defining
the Internetbased
supply
chain
system for
mass
customized
markets,
Computers
& Industrial
Engineering
, pp.17-41,
2003
Yi-lun ho,
wu-nien
peng, "Cost
Optimizatio
n of Order
Production
and Material
Purchase
under
Quantity
Discount
Considerati
on", AISS:
Advances in
Information
Sciences
and Service
Sciences,
Vol. 4, No.
9, pp. 356
-364, 2012.

Performa
nce
measurin
g toolsmausami
ambastha
Stitchworl
d 2012