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Athens & Attica

& A

ATHENS
HISTORY

Early History

The Greek capital is undergoing a radical period of urban renewal that did not stop with
the 2004 Olympics. The magnificent Acropolis, crowned by the iconic Parthenon temple,
rises above the city, watching the sprawling modern metropolis evolve. Athens is now a
conspicuously wealthier, more sophisticated cosmopolitan city. The shift is evident in a
gradual gentrification and the new art and leisure precincts around town, and in the lifestyles
of the hedonistic, trend-conscious Athenians. Stylish new restaurants, shops and revamped
hotels continue to open.
Perhaps the most significant change is in the historic centre, virtually unrecognisable since
cars were banished, with most significant ancient sites linked in what has become Europes
longest and arguably most stunning pedestrian promenade. This huge archaeological park
has reconciled past and present, with the citys cultural and social life once again taking
place around the ancient monuments and surrounding neighbourhoods. Athens remains a
city of contradictions, as frustrating as it is seductive. It is the oldest city in Europe, yet still
in a state of transition. Its one of Europes safest and liveliest cities a heady mix of grunge
and grace with an undeniable urban soul.
Most visitors will leave impressed with its vibrant street life and relaxed lifestyle, where
people take time out for endless coffees and evening strolls, dine out until late and enjoy the
citys nightlife, long after the rest of Europe has gone to bed. Athenians are the first to debate
and lament their citys many shortcomings but most wouldnt live anywhere else.

HIGHLIGHTS
Ancient Splendour Glimpsing the awe-inspiring Acropolis rising above the city for the first

time (p111)
Historic Trails Strolling through ancient Athens along the grand pedestrian promenade (p115)
Feast for the Eyes Dining in Thisio or Plaka with a view of the

floodlit Acropolis (p137)

Greek Treasures Viewing the superb collec-

tion of antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum (p120)

Plaka
Ancient Athens

National
Archaeological
Museum

Acropolis
Odeon of
Herodes Atticus

Ancient Stage Catching an Athens Festival

show at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus

(p130)
Magic Nights Visiting lively bars, glamorous beach

bars or moonlight cinema (p141)

Take Time Out Watching the sun set at Cape Sounion (p155)
POPULATION: ATHENS 3.4 MILLION; ATTICA 4 MILLION

Cape Sounion

AREA: 3808 SQ KM

The early history of Athens is inextricably

interwoven with mythology, making it impossible to disentangle fact from fiction.
What is known is that the hill-top site of
the Acropolis, with two abundant springs,
drew some of Greeces earliest Neolithic
settlers. When a peaceful agricultural existence gave way to the war-orientated
city-states, the Acropolis provided an ideal
defensive position.
By 1400 BC the Acropolis had become
a powerful Mycenaean city. It survived
the Dorian assault in 1200 BC but didnt
escape the dark age that enveloped Greece
for the next 400 years. Little is known of
this period.
After its emergence from the dark age in
the 8th century BC, a period of peace followed, during which Athens became the artistic centre of Greece, excelling in ceramics.
The geometric vase designs from the dark
age evolved into a narrative style, depicting
scenes from everyday life and mythology
(known as the Proto-Attic style).
By the 6th century BC, Athens was ruled
by aristocrats and generals. Labourers and
peasants had no say in the functioning of
the city until the reform3-oriented Solon
became arhon (chief magistrate) in 594 BC
and improved the lot of the poor. Regarded
as the harbinger of Athenian democracy,
Solons most significant reforms were the
annulment of debts and the implementation of trial by jury. Continuing unrest over
the reforms created the pretext for the tyrant
Peisistratos, formerly head of the military, to
seize power in 560 BC.
Peisistratos built up a formidable navy
and extended the boundaries of Athenian
influence on land. A patron of the arts, he
inaugurated the Festival of the Great Dionysia, the precursor of Attic drama, and commissioned many splendid sacred and secular
buildings most of which were destroyed
by the Persians.
Peisistratos was succeeded by his tyrant
son Hippias in 528 BC. Athens managed
to rid itself of this oppressor in 510 BC
with the help of Sparta. Hippias went to

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Persia and returned with Darius 20 years

later, only to be defeated at the Battle of
Marathon.

Athens Golden Age

After Athens finally repulsed the Persian
Empire at the battles of Salamis and Plataea
(again, with the help of Sparta), its power
knew no bounds.
In 477 BC Athens established a confederacy
on the sacred island of Delos and demanded
tributes from the surrounding islands to protect them from the Persians. It was little more
than a standover racket because the Persians
were no longer much of a threat. The treasury
was moved to Athens in 461 BC and Pericles
(ruler from 461 to 429 BC) used the money
to transform the city. This period has become
known as Athens golden age, the pinnacle of
the classical era.
Most of the monuments on the Acropolis
today date from Athens golden age. Drama
and literature flourished in the form of the
tragedies written by such luminaries as
Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides. The
sculptors Pheidias and Myron and the historians Herodotus, Thucydides and Xenophon
also lived during this time.

Rivalry with Sparta

Sparta did not sit back and let Athens revel in
its new-found glory. The jockeying for power
between the two led to the Peloponnesian
Wars (see p34) in 431 BC, which dragged
on until 404 BC, when Sparta gained the
upper hand. Athens was never to return to
ATHENA & THE OLIVE TREE
According to mythology, Kekrops, a Phoenician, came to Attica and founded a city
on a huge rock near the sea. The gods of
Olympus proclaimed that the city should
be named after the deity who could produce the most valuable legacy for mortals.
Athena (goddess of wisdom) produced an
olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity. Poseidon (god of the sea) struck a rock
with his trident and a horse sprang forth,
symbolising the qualities of strength and
fortitude. The gods judged that Athenas
gift would better serve the citizens of Athens than the arts of war personified by
Poseidons gift.

ATHENS & ATTICA

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its former glory. The 4th century BC did,

however, produce three of the Wests greatest
orators and philosophers: Socrates, Plato and
Aristotle. The degeneracy into which Athens
had fallen was perhaps epitomised by the ignominious death sentence passed on Socrates
for the crime of corrupting the young with
his speeches.
In 338 BC, along with the other city-states
of Greece, Athens was conquered by Philip II
of Macedon. After Philips assassination, his
son Alexander the Great, a cultured young
man, favoured Athens over other city-states.
After Alexanders untimely death, Athens
passed in quick succession through the hands
of several of his generals.

Roman & Byzantine Rule

Athens continued to be a major seat of learning under Roman rule, when many wealthy
young Romans attended Athens schools.
Anybody who was anybody in Rome at the
time spoke Greek. The Roman emperors, particularly Hadrian, graced Athens with many
grand buildings.
After the subdivision of the Roman Empire into east and west, Athens remained an
important cultural and intellectual centre
until Emperor Justinian closed its schools of
philosophy in 529. The city declined into an
outpost of the Byzantine Empire.
Between 1200 and 1450, Athens was continually invaded by the Franks, Catalans,
Florentines and Venetians, all opportunists
preoccupied with grabbing principalities from
the crumbling Byzantine Empire.

Ottoman Rule & Independence

Athens was captured by the Turks in 1456,
and nearly 400 years of Ottoman rule followed. The Acropolis became the home of
the Turkish governor, the Parthenon was converted into a mosque, and the Erechtheion
was used as a harem.
In the early stages of the War of Independence (182127), fierce fighting broke
out in the streets of Athens, with the city
changing hands several times between Turks
and Greek liberators. In 1834 Athens superseded Nafplio as the capital of independent
Greece and King Otho set about transforming the sparsely populated, war-scarred town
into something worthy of a capital. Bavarian
architects created a city of imposing neoclassical buildings, tree-lined boulevards, flower

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gardens and squares. Sadly, many of these

buildings have been demolished. The best
surviving examples are on Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias and Panepistimiou.

The 20th Century

Athens grew steadily throughout the latter
half of the 19th and early 20th centuries, and
enjoyed a brief heyday as the Paris of the
eastern Mediterranean. This ended abruptly
in 1923 with the Treaty of Lausanne, which
resulted in nearly a million refugees from
Turkey descending on Athens an event
that marked the beginning of its muchmaligned concrete sprawl.
Athens suffered appallingly during the
German occupation of WWII, during which
time more Athenians were killed by starvation than by the enemy. This suffering was
perpetuated in the civil war that followed.
The industrialisation programme launched
during the 1950s, with the help of US aid,
brought another population boom as people from the islands and mainland villages
moved to Athens in search of work.
The colonels junta (196774), with characteristic insensitivity, tore down many of
the old Turkish houses of Plaka and the
neoclassical buildings of King Othos time.
But the junta failed to tackle the chronic
infrastructure problems resulting from such
rapid and unplanned growth. The elected
governments that followed in the late 1970s
and 1980s didnt do much better, and by the
end of the 1980s, the city had developed a
sorry reputation as one of the most traffic
clogged and polluted in Europe.
The 1990s were a turning point, with politicians finally accepting the need for radical solutions. Inspired initially by the failed
bid to stage the 1996 Olympics, authorities
embarked on an ambitious programme to
drag the city into the 21st century. The 2004
Olympics deadline fast-tracked projects that
had been on the drawing board for years
and forced many more changes across the
public and private sectors. Key elements
were a major expansion of the road and underground metro network, and the construction of a new international airport.
As Athens absorbed more than 600,000
migrants, legal and illegal, the citys social
fabric was also changing, presenting a new
set of challenges.

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Post-Olympics Athens

SYNTAGMA

After a frantic, suspense-filled period of construction and doomsaying, Athens surprised

much of the world by pulling off a successful
Olympic Games in 2004. Billions of euros
were poured into the citys redevelopment,
from transport infrastructure and stadiums to
pedestrian zones around the historic centre.
Major beautification projects removed ugly
billboards, paved footpaths, redeveloped the
citys parks and squares, and mass-planted
trees and plants. The Olympics legacy is that
Athens today is a radically different city a
more attractive, cleaner, greener and more
efficient capital, though it is still a work in
progress and still battling with basic infrastructure issues like waste management.

Plateia Syntagma (Constitution) is the heart

of modern Athens, dominated by the Parliament and surrounded by major hotels, the
central business district, shopping precincts
and the National Gardens. With pleasant
shady benches, central fountain, cafs and
the Syntagma metro station nearby, it is a
popular meeting place. Syntagma is the main
focal point for public rallies and civic events,
while the changing of the guard ceremony
outside the Parliament is one of the citys most
popular spectacles.

ORIENTATION
City Centre

Athens is a sprawling urban mass but the historic centre and most major sites are located
within walking distance of Plateia Syntagmatos (Syntagma Sq).
The citys two major landmarks, the
Acropolis and Lykavittos Hill, can be seen
from just about anywhere and are useful
for getting ones bearings. Major streets
are generally clearly signposted in Greek
and English.
Downtown Athens is a city of distinct
neighbourhoods, each with its own individual
character.

PLAKA

South of Syntagma, Plaka is the old Turkish

quarter and virtually all that existed when
Athens was declared capital of independent
Greece. Its paved, narrow streets nestle into
the northeastern slope of the Acropolis and
pass by many of the citys ancient sites.
Plaka is touristy in the extreme, but it is
still the most attractive and atmospheric part
of Athens. The main streets, Kydathineon
and Adrianou, are packed solid with restaurants and souvenir shops, but elsewhere its
virtually car-free streets, with restored neoclassical mansions, can be a peaceful oasis.
The quaint labyrinthine Anafiotika quarter
above Plaka is a narrow maze of whitewashed,
island-style houses built by stonemasons from
the island of Anafi, brought in to build the
kings palace.
MONASTIRAKI

ATHENS IN PRINT
Athens (2004), by Michael Llewellyn Smith,
is an excellent cultural and literary history, while John Freelys Strolling Through
Athens (2004) explores the city through
walks around Athens. In the novel Euridice Street (2004), anthropologist Sofka
Zinovieff makes some interesting observations of contemporary Athens society,
albeit through the privileged perspective
of a diplomats wife moving to Greece.
Other worthy publications include Athens
by Neighbourhood (2001), written by local
resident Diane Shugart, and Patricia Storaces popular novel Dinner With Persephone
(1996), written during a year in Athens. For
a glimpse into Athens, underbelly, try The
Late Night News (2004) for crime fiction by
Petros Markaris.

Centred on busy Plateia Monastirakiou (Monastiraki Sq), the area just west of Syntagma
is the citys somewhat grungier but nonetheless atmospheric market district. The famous
Athens flea market (p144) is southwest of the
square, while the central market (p136) is to
the north on Athinas.
PSYRRI

The once clapped-out neighbourhood of

Psyrri (psee-ree), just north of Monastiraki,
still looks pretty grungy from the outside,
but the Soho of Athens is brimming with
stylish restaurants, bars, theatres and hip art
galleries. The slick warehouse conversions and
restored neoclassical houses compete with
a hotchpotch of stores, bakeries, workshops
and dilapidated buildings, giving the area an
interesting edge. Psyrri comes alive after dusk
and it is the place to go to hear live Greek

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ATHENS IN

Two Days
First stop is the Acropolis (p111), then wind your way down to the Ancient Agora (p116) and
the Plaka district, where its Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman pasts coexist with modern city life.
Have a late lunch in a Plaka taverna (p137). In the late afternoon take a long walk around the
Acropolis promenade, starting at the Temple of Olympian Zeus (p118), then around to Filopappou Hill (p124) and Thisio, and end the evening with dinner at a restaurant with a view of the
Parthenon. On day two, watch the changing of the guard (p125) at Syntagma before heading
to the National Archaeological Museum (p120) for the morning and/or the Benaki Museum
(p121). Spend the afternoon exploring downtown Athens. Try to catch a show at the Odeon of
Herodes Atticus (p130), one of the worlds most historic venues, or head to the Psyrri or Gazi
neighbourhoods for dinner and nightlife.

Four Days
If youve got a couple more days, you can add the following activities to your Athens itinerary.
On the third day, walk through the gardens to the old Olympic stadium, then head to the
Byzantine & Christian Museum (p121) or Goulandris Museum of Cycladic & Ancient Greek
Art (p121) before lunch and some shopping in Kolonaki (p143). Take a trip to Cape Sounion in
the afternoon to see the Temple of Poseidon (p155) at sunset or go to the lovely Mikrolimano
harbour in Piraeus (p154) for dinner, and then get a taste of summer nightlife at one of Athens
beach bars.
On the fourth day, go to Monastirakis flea market (p144) for some last-minute souvenirs,
then have lunch in a traditional taverna in the central market (p136). Take the teleferik (funicular
railway) to the peak of Lykavittos Hill (p124) for a panoramic view of Athens, then catch a movie
by moonlight at Aigli (p141), Athens oldest outdoor cinema.

music at one of the tavernas, particularly on

Sunday afternoon.

buildings now house museums, embassies

and government offices.

THISIO

MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI

&

The areas west of Monastiraki underwent a

remarkable transformation during the 1990s.
The pedestrianisation of the area around the
Acropolis has made the former traffic-clogged,
noisy thoroughfare of Apostolou Pavlou one
of the most serene parts of the city. Its now
a lovely green zone and a thriving area full of
bars and cafs.
KOLONAKI

The posh residential district of Kolonaki, east

of Syntagma, is undeniably chic. Tucked beneath Lykavittos Hill, it has long been the
favoured address of Athenian socialites. Its
streets are full of classy boutiques and private art galleries, as well as dozens of upmarket cafs and trendy restaurants. Plateia
Kolonakiou (Kolonaki Sq) and the cafs along
Milioni are prime positions for people-watching and fashion victimspotting.
Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias is one of Athens most imposing streets. Its neoclassical

Despite their proximity to the historic centre, the quiet neighbourhoods south of the
Acropolis are refreshingly untouristy.
Makrygianni, a trendy residential suburb
between Filopappou Hill and Leoforos Syngrou Andrea, has a few upmarket hotels and
restaurants, and is also home to one of the
citys gay precincts (between Stratigou Makrygiannji and Leoforos Syngrou Andrea; see
p139). South of Makrygianni is the low-key
residential district of Koukaki, which runs
along the foothills of the Acropolis and has
some excellent neighbourhood tavernas.
AROUND OMONIA

Omonia, north of Syntagma, was once one of

the citys smarter areas, but despite ongoing
efforts to tart it up, it is still seedy. The square
itself is cut off by traffic and has become a
popular meeting point for the citys undesirable elements. South of the square is the hub

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of an emerging ethnic district, with an Asian

quarter and several Bangladeshi shops in the
streets behind Omonia and west of Plateia
Eleftherias (Koumoundourou). Some of the
clapped-out apartment blocks are now hostels
and makeshift mosques for the citys increasing refugee and illegal-immigrant population. It makes an interesting backdrop for the
trendy art galleries and boutique hotels that
have sprouted in the area.
The area to the northwest of Plateia Omonias (Omonia Sq) probably rates as the sleaziest part of Athens, particularly the streets
around Plateia Vathis notorious for prostitutes and drug addicts.

neighbourhood with interesting music clubs,

cafs and restaurants.

EXARHIA

KIFISIA

Just south of the National Archaeological Museum is the Athens Polytechnio (Technical
University), the tertiary institution with a long
tradition of radical thinking and alternative
culture it led the infamous student sit-in of
1973, in opposition of the junta.
Squashed between the Polytechnio and
Strefi Hill is the rather bohemian residential
area of Exarhia, popular with students, artists
and intellectuals. Its a lively neighbourhood
with graffiti-covered walls and lots of goodvalue restaurants, cafs, bars and alternative
book, comic, music and clothing stores.

Leafy Kifisia (off Map p100) was once a cool

northern retreat where rich Athenians had
their villas. The rich and famous still monopolise what is now essentially an elite suburb. Its
lovely tree-lined streets, mansions and gardens couldnt be further from the hustle and
bustle of downtown Athens. Kifisia has some
of the citys best shopping, fine restaurants
and some of the most chic hotels in town. It
is the last stop on the metro Line 1.

GAZI

The revival of the Gazi neighbourhood started

with the transformation of the historic gasworks
into a cultural centre. The red chimney stacks
now brightly illuminate the surrounding streets,
which have sprouted trendy restaurants and
bars. It has also become the most gay-friendly
neighbourhood of Athens, with a host of gay
bars and clubs. The area is still gritty, though the
urban renewal is spreading to nearby Metaxourghio and along busy Pireos, which now
boasts one of the fanciest restaurants in Athens
(see Varoulko, p139), a boutique hotel and the
Benaki Museums new wing (p121).
METS & PANGRATI &

To the east of the Acropolis, opposite the Zappeio Gardens, is the district of Mets, which is
characterised by some delightful old Turkish
houses. Mets runs behind the imposing old
Olympic Stadium, built into Ardettos Hill.
Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou leads to the
National Art Gallery (p122), while east of
Mets is Pangrati, another pleasant residential

Outer Athens

GLYFADA

Once Atticas principal beach-resort town,

these days Glyfada (off Map p100), 12km
southeast of Athens, is a chic seaside suburb popular with ex-pats. In summer, half
of Athens descends on Glyfada, drawn by
its beaches, bars and restaurants and sea
breezes. Glyfada marks the beginning of a
stretch of coastline known as the Apollo
Coast, which has a string of fine beaches running south to Cape Sounion.

Maps
The free map handed out by the tourist office
is fine for central Athens. To seriously explore
beyond the centre, buy a copy of the AthensPiraeus street directory (in Greek), available at
most bookshops and stationery stores.

INFORMATION

Bookshops

Compendium (Map pp102-3; %210 322 1248;

Navarhou Nikodimou 5 & Nikis, Plaka) Specialises in books
in English, and has a popular secondhand section.
Eleftheroudakis Syntagma (Map pp104-5; %210 331
4180; Panepistimiou 17); Plaka (Map pp102-3; %210
322 9388; Nikis 20) The seven-floor Panepistimiou store is
the biggest bookshop in Athens, with a level dedicated to
English-language books.
Road Editions (Map pp104-5; %210 361 3242; www
.road.gr; Solonos 71, Exarhia) A wide range of travel
literature and all the Road Editions maps.

Emergency
Athens Central Police Station (Map pp106-7; %210
770 5711/17; Leoforos Alexandras 173, Ambelokipi)

ELPA Road Assistance (%10400)

(Continued on page 109)

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Pir

Pa

ari
ald
(Ts

Agios
Athanasios
Church

kou
ahal
Ept

an

Ype
rio

on

Dimofontos

Me

ho
rat
Ma

ino

ou

sion Alk
ida

kre

Gia

lam
Sa

dik

Epa

n
ylo
op

lis

DRINKING
45 Moires...................................18
Athinaion Politeia.......................19
Blue Train...................................20
Gazaki........................................21
Hoxton.......................................22
Stavlos.......................................23

D4
B2
B3
B3
A4
D3
C2

girou
Kyne

ka

EATING
Ska
mvo
Filistron......................................
11
nido
Kanela........................................
12
n
Mamacas...................................13
Sardelles.....................................14
Skoufias.....................................15
To Steki tou Ilia..........................16
Varoulko....................................17

on

Psyrri

ao

il
gis

eo

Akaman
dos
T ho
rikio
s
n
ro
in o
n
Kymeo
Ag

nou

ma
ido
s

erm
Th

n
teo
on
in

yk
M

Ram

Adra

Plateia
Umittou

os

T hr
iasi

Fyla
sion

iko

Ermou

nt
me
Kli

Plateia
Dimopoulou

Pla

fondo

s
eo

Plateia
Afea

Aristo

Plateia
Ag. Artemiou

s
no
nis
ad
Ev

on

Pro

ad

Plateia
Amvrosiou
Plyta

TRANSPORT
Mavromateon Bus Terminal
(Marathon & Rafina)..............15 C2
Mavromateon Bus Terminal
(Southern Attica)....................16 C2

tion

an

Gr

us

ini

27

Exo

o
nid

Ethra

o
Le

tou

nna

Leo

iko

ram

to
Vi

ky

o
are

ou

r
Pi

Thisio
Park

Pa

n
ma

Keramikos

nis

Za

m
Da

eo

ou

no

on

fo

14

ido

on

i tt

idon

Sfit

ea

th
Ti

My

Ikarieo
n

s
Ela

ky
Al

Ym

ah

rse

101

Ge

Ke

Da

iko

Archaeological
Museum of
Keramikos

Pe
21

200 m
0.1 miles

17
Kle
om
vro
tou

13
s

Evry
sthe
o

Th

km

Eh
eli
do

ias
ktir
Sfa

Gazi

Zagreo

Stratoniki

sou
r

12
Plateia
Profitou
Ilia
u
2 lolao
Fi

on

18

is
on
Di

os

Al

10

re

do
di
on
th
po
Ip

ENTERTAINMENT
Alavastro Caf........................... 12 D5
Gagarin 205 Club.......................13 B1
Mousikes Skies.......................... 14 D5

pou
Kar

Pi

Pangrati

ou

EATING
Hristos.........................................9 D5
Spondi....................................... 10 D5
Vyrinis....................................... 11 D5

lido

11

Mo
u

See Makrygianni & Koukaki Map (p106)

25

SLEEPING
DedErechthion........................
Pto
10 D4
Hotel
le
a

To Moni
Kaisariani
(4km)

14

Ardettos
Hill
rkou
Ma

SLEEPING
Hostel Aphrodite..........................7 B2
Youth Hostel No 5....................... 8 D5

To Planetarium (3km);
Glyfada (17km)

Alsos
Pangratiou

3
Plateia
Stadiou
6

Athens'
First
Cemetery

Leofmeni
ag
Vouli

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Athens Centre............................. 4 D5
Klaoudatos...................................5 C3
Panathenaic Stadium................... 6 D5

rea

INFORMATION
Dutch Embassy............................ 1 D5
Greek Youth Hostel Organisation..2 D5
Irish Embassy............................... 3 D5

Mets

Ka

Kilis

Syngrou-Fix

Koukaki

Plateia
Anixeos

n
xa

on

on

az
Am

u
xo
Iak

Evm
olpi
don

22

Plateia
Koulouris

Paralou

Ale

trid

on

See Syntagma & Monastiraki Map (pp1023)

Plateia
Apolloniou

tt o
A r di

Kreousis

Dyale

Filopappou
Makrygianni
Hill

of
Le

s
Va

ou
tin
an
st
on

LeGardens
of
Vas
Ol g
as

u Areopag
i to u
Akropoli

as

Plateia
Ergatikis
Protomagias

Evangelismos

Efpa

Voutado
n

Votanikos

u
egaloA
ou M
lky
ou T
on
Vasili
eo
i
s
er
af
z
T

m
Sy

Dionysio

Damo
kleous

Zappeio

Hill
of the
Nymphs

12

iko
on
dr

National
Gardens

Anafiotika

Pre
sp

n
Freario

u
dio

Syntagma

Acropolis

To Kifisia
(13km)

Plateia
Kolonakiou

Plaka

See Gazi & Thisio Map (p101)

Plateia
Dante

Monastiraki
Ancient
Agora

15

Syntagma

u)
elo
n iz
Ve

Sta

Plateia
Ious

An

Kolonaki

Thisio

op
io
u

Ka
te
rin
is

Lykavittos
Hill

Athens
University
(El

Plateia
Iron

on

Ma

eon
Gefyr

Monastiraki

Thisio

Nileos

N
Votanikos evro
k

Afidneon

iou
tim

Psyrri

opis

rkel
las
Trizin
Pan
0S
geo
u

rpou
Polyka

Orfeos

os
lon
So

p is
ne

os
re

eos

Omonia
)
agi
Pan

Panepistimio

n
ylo

Technopolis

Plateia
Gyzi

s
ou
rat
ok
Ipp

Exarhia

Keramikos

To Foundation for
the Hellenic World (2km);
Allou Fun Park (6km);
Kidom (6km);
Piraeus (9.5km)

Pir

ari
ald
(Ts

Gazi

Plateia
Koulouris

Pi

Plateia
Omonias

Pa

op
erm

Th

Iera
Od
os

Ag

Strefi
Hill
Plateia
Exarhion

Ag Kon
stantin
ou

e os
Ahill

os

iso n

See Kolonaki & Ambelokipi Map (pp1067)

Metaxourghio
Plateia
Ramnes

on n

v en

don

At
hi
no
n

dra

Rod

Ahnia

g
Me

u
dro

u
isio

16

Gre

ole

Lofos
Finopoulou

ou
ust

Omonia
of

Pa

san

t em

15

Votanikos
Am
fip Kipos

A gio u

Areos
Park

Peloponnese

Le

Prin
gip

n
pido
Evel

Bo
Leof A
5
lexand
ra s
See Omonia & Exarhia Map (pp1045)

Plateia
Akadimias
Platonos

yth

ram

Kas

Ar

Plateia
Petroula Sot.

Viktoria
Plateia
Egyptou

ias

Ioulianou

Larisa
metro
station

s
eli

Athens
School of
Economics
Plateia
Viktorias

os

tr a

Liosio

Pe
Larisis train
station

nia

Zo

sou

ps
Ky

Kodring
tonos

go

20
Plateia
Ag. Georgiou

stoxydi
Mou

Lofos
Ippeiou
Kolonou

Alsos
Polygonos

ryo

nd

Agorakritou

Lofos
Patatsou

Pela

oro

nt
Me

fo
gra

ed o

Plateia
Attikis

en

D5
D5
D5
D2
D2
C3
D2
B3

Ka

ym
Ev r

Attiki

lv
Ve

Plateia
Kypselis
(Kanari)

u
do

A4

lyp

Plateia
Amerikis

Agiou Me
letiou

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Benaki Museum Pireos Annexe....1
Church of Agios Dimitrios
Loumbardiaris..........................2
Hill of the Nymphs.......................3
Hill of the Pnyx............................4
Islamic Art Museum.....................5
Keramikos....................................6
Maria Callas Museum..................7
Sacred & Dipylon Gates...............8
Technopolis..................................9

os
Pile

Plateia
Kalliga

Aharnon

an

Plateia
Kyprion
Ethnomartyron

Ka

Plateia
Diakou Athan.
(Thymarakia)

Plateia
Ag. Nikolaou

on
Liosi

rm

0
0

GAZI & THISIO

o
Ias

Lofos
Skouze

inon
Ioann

no

B
13

u
hio
rra
Dy

1 km
0.5 miles

eos
Ahill

To Bus Terminal B (1km);

Future SKA Rail Hub

Le

0
0

CENTRAL ATHENS

100

0
0

SYNTAGMA & MONASTIRAKI

ou

Hristopou
lou

Voulis

hou
Vak

Pendelis

Patroou

Ke
kr
op
os

97

Filellinon

ido

43

83

ali

as

ous

Am

Pit
tak
ou

alo

si

li s

sis

89

f
eo

o
or

Va

Zappeio
Gardens

Leo

for
os

Vas

ou

Olg

49

31

Leof Syngrou Andrea

Tzireon
Makri

nni

on

C1
E3
F2
E3

E4
C2

SHOPPING
Amorgos................................91
Centre of Hellenic Tradition...92
Melissinos Art.........................93
Mesogaia...............................94
Monastiraki FleaittMarket.........
95
ou

F3
D1
C1
F3
B1

TRANSPORT
Aegean Airlines..................... 96
M
Piga 97
Bus 024 to Bus Terminal B.....
Bus No 040 to Piraeus...........98
Bus X95 to Airport.................99
Buses to Cape Sounion........100
Buses to Glyfada..................101
102
Olympic Airlines..................
iati
Min
103
Tram Terminus....................

G2
G3
G2
G2
G2
G2
G2
G2

A rd

nou

ou

H4
E4
H4

iad
Fot

Thanasis................................ 77
EATING
Ariston....................................65 F1
To Kafeneio........................... 78
Caf Avyssinia........................66 B1
Tzitzikas & Mermingas...........79
Furin Kazan............................67 F2
Vizantino...............................80
Glykis.....................................
68 E3
Diak
ou
Kostas Souvlaki.......................
DRINKING
At69
h E3
Kuzina....................................70 A1 Brettos....................................81
Noodle Bar.............................71 F2
Dioskouri...............................82
Palia Taverna tou Psara..........72 D3
s
o
F3
Paradosiako............................
ENTERTAINMENT
73
Lem
ro
ali D2 rAigli
besi
is Cinema.......................... 83
K74
Platanos.................................
Kallir o
Savas......................................75 C1 Cine Paris...............................84
Lallabai Garden......................85
Souvlaki tou Hasapi................76 F2

D3
F4
B1

THUMB TAB

ou M
akry
gia

Mets

G3
D3

Bala

Plateia
Tsokri

Lava Bore..............................86
Mostrou................................ 87
Palea Plakiotiki Taverna
Stamatopoulos...................88
Perivoli Tou Ouranou.............89
Stoa Pikilis..............................90

45

la
Koutou

Kales
hrou

hi
va
ur
Vo

Ve

Acropolis
Museum Akropoli

Porinou

Mitromara

Parthenos

F3
Makrigianni
F4
F3
F1
E2
F3
F1 Hatzihri
stou
D2
G1
E2
E2
F2
D2 Strateon
F3
u
D1
iko

Strat
ig

Mitseon

Karyatid
on

Kallisperi

SLEEPING
Acropolis House Pension........50
Adams Hotel..........................51
Adonis Hotel..........................52
Athens Cypria Hotel..............53
D2 Central
Hotel..........................54
Promahou
H3 Electra Palace.........................55
H2 Hotel Achilleas........................
56
Pe
tm
C2 Kava
57
Hotellloti
Adrian..........................
ez
a
G4 Hotel Grande Bretagne..........
58
E3
John's Place............................59
F5
Magna Grecia Hotel...............60
D2 Niki Hotel...............................61
G2 Plaka Hotel............................62
D3 Student & Travellers' Inn........63
H4 Tempi Hotel...........................64

85

as

n
hi
Es

F3
F3
C3
E4
F3
F3
Erehthiou

A5
E2
D1
G3
A5
F3
F5
C2

ar

lik

ge

E3
G2
E4

Th

ura

rat

agitou
u Areop
Dionysio

To Ghiolman Yachts
& Travel (50m)

Hellenic Children's
Museum............................33
Jewish Museum......................34
Kanellopoulos Museum..........35
Lysikratous Monument...........36
Museum of Children's Art......37
Museum of GreekFratti
Folk Art.....38
Museum of Greek Popular
Instruments.......................39
National Gardens...................40
Parliament.............................41
Roman Agora........................
42
Ratzieri
Roman Baths.........................43
Scoutway...............................
44
Thiramenous
Temple of Olympian Zeus......45
Tower of the Winds...............
46
Fenaretis
Trekking Hellas...................... 47
Sofroniskou
Turkish Baths.........................
48
Zappeio Gardens................... 49
Web
ste

C4
E3
A2
B3
E2

on

lou
Deda
ar

Los
sif
Rog

alli

An

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Acropolis............................... 17
Agios Nikolaos Rangavas........18
Ancient Agora.......................19
Areopagus Hill.......................20
Cathedral...............................21
Centre of Folk Arts &
Traditions...........................22
CHAT....................................23
Church of Agia Ekaterini.........24
Church of Agios Dimitrios
Filopappou
Loumbardiaris....................
25
Hill
Church of Agios Eleftherios....26
Church of Kapnikarea............27
Church of Sotira Lykodimou..28
Filopappou Hill.......................29
Frissiras Museum....................30
Hadrian's Arch........................31
Hadrian's Library....................32

86

Sim

llou

29

Vyronos

y
Thras

u Areopa
gito

Ro v
erto
uG

40

THUMB TAB

Theatre
of Dionysos

kis

National
Gardens

uK
Tsatso
30

M
o

Plateia
Filomousou
Eterias

Go

Lys
ik

Frynihou

Odeon
of Herodes
Atticus

Ni

38

on

Sour
iG
28 Plateia
Rallou
Manou

34

g
an
Ts
u
r io
u
ste Periandro
sA
ni
u
mo
sto
yso
Hr

Epimenid
ou

ne

51

tos
on
ref
He 24 u
o
lan
Ga

36

thi

ta
ron

Areopagus
Hill

da

14

Afrod
itis

Shelley

os
pid
es
Th

Ky
Ge

Parthenon

63

ki
ma
Far

ava
Ra n g

17

37

94

80

81

ahou
Lam

Plateia
Sotiros

33

84
Acropolis

Temple
of Athena
Nike

20

Dionysio

22
Hatzimihali
Angelikis
68

ou
gel
An

Adrianou

Hill

78

See Makrygianni & Koukaki Map (p108)

Ipatias

eous
Mnisikl

Vla h ou Ang

Eolou

Ben
Paleoizelou
logou

iha

Ep

Theorias

25

44

101

102

15

ou
Iperid
91
52
50

69

u
mo

Xenofon
tos
23

100

THUMB TAB

on

Anafiotika

55
73
Navarhou Nikodi
mou

47

13

61

s
tira
So

anio

96
103

Ipitou

s
Erehtheo

88

72

Pryt

54

u
dro
Ko

r oto
kri
to
u

liou
Sho

Old Athens
University

71

sa
l es

ria

eo

Th

Zalokost
a

Kalamio
tou

pou
Kali
p

u
Kiryke
io

da

mino
n
E pa

Klepsydras
And
okid
ou

P a n os

Othonos
99

11
10
98

76

Plaka

no

F2
F4
F3
G2

Nikis

Avramiot

do
s

em
i

Areo
s

THUMB TAB

Vrysakiou

Dioskouron

od

Dioskouron

risto

Lyss
io

lou

Tho

s
Apollono

ato

THUMB TAB

Kyr

87

41
16

67

Agiou
reou
And

18

Propyleon

THUMB TAB

48

59

Parliament
Building

Syntagma

Plateia
Syntagmatos

See Kolonaki & Ambelokipi Map (pp1067)

Diog
eno
us
74

G2
G2
G1

i
Garivald

THUMB TAB

39

Thrasyvou
lou

Aretousas
35

Vasilissis
Sofias

79

Skoufou

Mitroou

57

21
26

p
Tri

F1
C2
D2
F3
H1
F2
G3
G1
G1

42
otou

Kalogrioni
Plateia
Arhaia
Agoras

Pelo
pida
Eol
ou

46

Plateia
Mitropoleos

Mitrop
oleos

di d o u

Ancient Agora

Adrianou

1
Petraki

60

Thouki

2
Taxiarhon Po
lygn

u
avl o
u P

Hill
of the
Nymphs

ou

58
Georgiou

Vasileos

Kolonaki

THUMB TAB

Peikilis

stolo
Apo

Dexip
p

Vo

Athens King
Plaza George
II Palace

92
62

Kladou

53

ou

o
uk

8 12

Karageo
rgi Serv
ias

Kr

st
ure

65

Agias Filotheis

See Gazi & Thisio Map (p101)

Stoa of
Attalos

Ktena
Ermou

Str

Dimitriou
Eginitou

Plateia
Dimopratiriou

u
lio
Ioumith
S

Pand
rosou

56

Perikleous

Plateia
Kapnikareas

Monastiraki

Klepsydras

Monastiraki

75

32

19

Th

Norman
ou

Ag
Filip
po
u

Th
isio

ou
K y net

95

27

82

INFORMATION
American Express......................1
Athens Archaeological Service..2
Bits & Bytes Internet Caf........3
Compendium...........................4
Egyptian Embassy....................5
Eleftheroudakis.........................6
EOT.........................................7
Eurochange..............................8
Hellenic Skiing Federation........9
Hellenic Windsurfing
Association........................ 10
Ivis Internet...........................11
National Bank of Greece.........12
Pacific Travel Luggage
Storage...............................13
Plaka Laundrette....................14
Post Office.............................15
Syntagma Post Office............16

CITY

103
THUMB TAB

77

Temple of
Hephaestus

CTRY

ot

iez

iou

u
dio
Sta

Plateia
Monastirakiou

Ifestou

Ermou

Syntagma

an
arli
Ax

ano

93

66

Nisou

Adri

200 m
0.1 miles

Diomias

90

A gias Irini
s

Kornarou

70

Plateia
Avyssinias

Skouze
Plateia
Agia
Irini
Athinaidos

Fokionos

As
tin
go
s

Klitiou

64

listrias
Evange

itos
Kev
Ermou

las

Thisio

Eptaha
lkou
Plateia
Thisiou

a
ek

ki
ska
rai
Ka

Thiseos

io
no
s

Romvis

Ar

hek
Ag T

lito
Av

Plateia
Ag. Asomaton

i
P i t t ak

THUMB TAB

Kapnik
area
s

CTRY

Mar
Aurelki ou
ou

102
CITY

uD

Streit

Athinas

Zaimi
linas
Boubou

io

Arist
Plateia Ag
Theodoron
idou

len
ou

Eolou

Leoharous

Spyridon
as

Ikonom
ou

Tsamad
ou

Trikoupi
Botasi

Soultani
ou
u li

So

Thes

Navarho
u Apos
toli

Saripolou

nou
George
Karytsi

Kolonaki

19

Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry

ou

ot

Kanari

in

Sokratou
io
u

itr

Eshylou

Di
m

Ag

Sk

Virgin Megastore

ulis

Geranio

Diplari

Streit

iot
o

Ir

17
National Historical Museum

sta

Apello
u

us
Klistheno

Mena
ndrou

Eolou

Koum

Karori

Gaz
Anthimiou

ound
ourou

Kaning

n
u-Patisio
28 Okt
ovrio

KotoKo
poto
ulipo
Multoou
Ko
pouli M

Ag Ko
Plateia

os

Ma
yer

Nikiforo

nstanti
nou
Koumou
ndouro
u

ak
i

rai
sk

Ka

Sokratou
s

Rethym

28 Ok
tovriou
-Patisio
n

ous

Aristotel

Soniero

3is Se
ptemv
rio

atou

Akom
in

Psaron

Hiou

Kapnokop
tiriou

Aharnon

Ellasias

Havriou

eos

THUMB TAB

Leof Ko
nstand
inoupo
l

Deligianni

Samou

ido
s

EleAgias
ou
sis

da
P in

i s ka k
i

Ro

Vo

ito

THUM
B TAB
ma

tio

es
ur

or

Ka
ra

fa

ou

ou

Sk

uA

so

ut

u
to
Michael Mihalakos
kri
mo
Di

o
uk

la
Va

Plateia
Kolokotroni

av

os
lon
So

Goethe Institute

kis
Pantelides Books
eri
Eleftheroudakis Books
Am
3
58

So

ias

arh

u
to
vit
ka
Ly Plateia Ag.
Dionysiou
ou
itt

k
Tsa

k
Ly

im

ath

u
ulo
po

to

ad

Ag

iP

ak

an

Ak

sto

s
no
ag
An

u
ro

tza

s
no
rso

He

THUMB TAB

tou

on

n
pla

Ni
ka

iou

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ha

at

St

20
Theatre Museum
70

rou

Le
S

Di

as
ali
Hellenic-American
Union
ass
M

Ka

ba
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French Institute

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on

To
m

ta v
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sa

Kolonaki

ari

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da
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so

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ri
va

s
Pra

lon

Syntagma

aK

tei

Pla

ia A
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ton
ton

ou

Plateia
Kara
osk
ak

v
tso

Na

s
ou
rat
ok
Ipp

So

Plateia Kauffmann Books

Klafthmonos
53
Lo
u
u
ulo
do
42
po
ar
o
g
ou
ri
13
d
a
E
p
52
Pa

Plate

Pe

us

Kolokntho

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isia

art
is
on
eth

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eh

An
M

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ianou

ou

dr
An

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is
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llik

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nt

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dio
Sta

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on
Angel

nou
n
nio
rve
De

tsi
lte
Va

pi
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ag
Dr

45

Romv

teia A
ateia gias

a
M

ou

Ag
I
Pa
tri
Fo arh
tio ou
u

a
Sin
OSE Syntagma
72 Branch

54

Kolokotroni
ge
Evan

Flower
Market
Plat
Pla

Vasili

48
ou

li

ikio

Vor
e

lou

ao u

rgo
d

47

e
niz
Ve

os

Avramiotou

12

rik
uT

10

ra

Ko

iou

n
tsa

u
sso
rna
Pa

u
rko
Ma

iou

on

ath

Nik

Ag

sis
Vys

26

li o

dou
ltia
Mi

iri

o
lad

osp i

Ha

o
rila

Di

ou
11
ere
FAthens
University
a
Rig
Athens
University
Panepistimio

(El

Hrys

Pr
ax
ite
is lous
t is s

u
ho

National
Library
18

66

Ag

va
ha
Vla
Plateia
Karamanou

ou

o
od

8
Xenoglosso Vivlopoleio

kli

io u
tim
p is

Evripid

Zo

De

As

ne

i da

Pa
a

65

Ka

Pa

Mi

u
go

iou

g
zo

sm

Central
Market

36
Meat
Market
30

la
ari
iH
up
o
k
Tri

is
Pig

li
ha
mi
vro

k
Tri

lou

n
tro u
Pa no
P rma
Ge

io

i
up

la
ari

63

Sofokleo
us

Polyklitou

th

l
s
n ou
oge
t
Pro
55
i
l
iko
Kak
an
ou
ap

n
ro

Mikonos

ki

sa

56

27

m
la
Ka

an

Plateia
Iron

gy
ar

An

38

o
op

va
Na

ou
rh

o
Ap

k
Ta

el

40

Ag

li

s
n ou

go

Plateia
Agion
Anargyron

Es

Plateia
Ag.
Asomaton

46

gy

eia
at

nni
gia

Pl

Le

io
en

u
to

ou

ato

ori
ok
Le

om
As

44

siko
Kat

aro

Ar

Stavrou
Georgiou

tofa

Ag

idao
lamig
Pa R

ou

na

Kra

nar
gy
ron

ad

Pe

Monastiraki
21

ou

nn

fas

za

Sa

ent Store

62

49

Ge

ak
en

Pandora Music Shop

Kia

iou

Fid

A ri s

uri
hto
Sa

i
iez
Kr

ion
Ag

Tournavi
tou

33

59

nd

u
dio

u
uro
iko
Ep

ou
ller

My

teo

Psyrri
rri
Sa

32
Theatro

Klaoudatos
Departme
25

Public Toilets
Armod
iou
Fruit &
Vegetable
34
AristoMarket
geitono
s

Olimpia
61

Kratinou

ulo

po

rfo

o
Evm

Efpolidos

Plateia
Kotzia

el
nu
ma
Em

43

57

Sta

ripidou
Ev

ias

im
Ma
ki
vro
na
ko
Be
r d a t ou
el
u
n
a
m
m
E
ta

ri

ou

no
eto
M
K

69

lou
py
Di

Iktinou

iou
ng
olo
es
M

Za
lon

itar

Athens' Central1Post Office

35

o
ist
m

Be

al

31

ve

lga

u
Vo

rgi
eo
lig
De

us

lon
Ko

ho
int

Anaxagora

Plateia
Theatrou
Pla ia
Theate
trou
41

is

n
ori

Plateia
Eleftherias
(Koumoundourou)

u
go
ilin

us

T he

Titania
64

Omonia

Sapfo

ad

Nik

68

Sofokleo
us

Athens Municipal Art Gallery

il
ou
am
uS
iro
lo g
Ka

Pla

TRANSPORT
Bus No 049 to Piraeus............. 67 D4
Bus No 051 to Bus Terminal A..68 C4
Buses to Dafni and Elefsina.......69 B5
6
Keramikos
Buses to Moni
Kaisarianis.........70 G5
Olympic Airlines...................... 71 D3 i
n
OSE......................................... 72 lG5
i do
aender Museum
Me C3
OSE.........................................73

ilao

is
Ag

us

ki

na

Em

39

via

Katakouzin
o
s

Vilara

gi)

to

Strefi
Hill

37

28
us
l eo

lhe

Pou

u
an

a
ax
et
M

Plateia
Kaningos

Gladstono

o
Zosi m a d

Solomou

51

ad

sim

50

a
vell
Tza

Veranzerou

Ga

gi
ller

os
on

lok

ou

F2
F6
F6
F5
D6
F5
F4
G6
G3
C3
F4
D5
F4

e
Pir

na

o
nZ

Plateia
Exarhion

Exarhia

Ak

71

67
24

u
niano
Iousti

See Kolonaki & Ambelokipi Map (pp1067)

as
lheri
tou Pou
rio
ou
d
un
Ko

is
ov
ah
Ar

Pa

Plateia
Omonias

Ko

im
ad
Ak

ino

lam

Sa

ENTERTAINMENT
AN Club...................................51
u
Apollon & Attikon....................
52
iko
ram
Astor........................................
53
Ke
Asty.........................................54
Envy........................................ 55
Hellenic Festival Box Office......56
Ideal.........................................57
u
Kalua.......................................
58
iko
an
Kavouras..................................
59
Gr
National Theatre......................60
Olympia Theatre......................61
Rembetika Stoa Athanaton......62
Ticket House............................63

os

Pa

ari
ald
(Ts

Gra

Stournar

ti

nidou

Kapodi
striou

Lykourgo
u

SHOPPING
m
om
vroMetropolis Music.....................64 E4 saro
to
P
Tou Pantopoleion.......................65 E5
Xylouris Music..........................66 F5

Kle

22

Satovria

n
ylo

s
no
ho

op
erm

ido

on

Le

Ias

ato

o
ak

rat
Ma

Th

iko
an
erm

tr
Gia

g
Me

n
eon

ka

Ka

i
rd

os

See Gazi & Thisio Map (p101)

an

ndyli

National Theatre
60
Ag Kons
tantinou
Plateia Ag.
Konstandinou

Zinon

x
A le

Athens
Polytechnio

lle
Ko

ou

Pla t e i a
Plateia
Karaiskaki

u
dro

Polytehniou

Halkoko

Xouthou

Koundo
uriotou

vis
so

lon

73
OSE Office
Ierotheo
u

Pe

leo
Ahil

Karolou

16
National Archaeological
Museum

Kli

Ko

ero

yll

Bena
ki V
irg

n
ylo
op
erm
Th

dy

Plate

aki
aisk
Kar
ia

Po

is

u
plio

s
eo
ss

iou

op

eon
Keram

el
Pin

15

Deligia
nni

on

rou

uti

uro

Do

Kodratou

Victor 23
Hugo

uta
Plapo

Tositsa

ate

Metaxourghio

14

Kam

Plateia
Vathis

Favierou

Vas Ir
aklio

m
ro
lid
Ka

Tarella

po
Alkip

29

ieo

an

aria

sion
Lios

Pouqueville

Elefsinion

Pe

E
Ipirou

THUMB TAB

Fruit & Vegetable Market........34 D5

F6
Festo
u
Athens Central Post Office.........1 E4
F5
Kavouras................................(see 59)
Menedimou
Cyberzone..................................
G6 ThMarinopoulos..........................
35 D4
2 E3
r ak i s
onias
Maked
Eleftheroudakis..........................
G6
G5
Meat
Market...........................
D5
36
3
Kro
pia
1
s
Peloponnese
Meintani..................................37 G2
Eurochange................................
4 D3
Novotel Athens 38 C6
Oineas.....................................
Hellenic Society for the Study &
SLEEPING
Protection of the Monk Seal...5 E2
Rozalia.....................................39 G3
Arion Hotel............................. 21 D6
Kritis tou Psyrri................... 40 D6
Museum
Caf................6 E1
Taverna
Athens Easy Hotel................... 22 D3
PolydorInternet
i
Averof
iou
ourmel
g Pavlo
Panhellenic Camping Association..7 F3
AthensAInternational
Youth
Telis.........................................41S C5
u
ou
idi Road Editions............................. 8 G4
Hostel..................................23 C3
Vasilopoulos.............................
42 F6
Sahini
m
la
Baby Grand Hotel....................24 D4
Yiantes.................................... 43 G3
Sea Turtle Protection Society of
Pa
a
Fresh Hotel..............................25 D5
ng Greece....................................9 E2
ou
vra
D6
Paleol
Tremper
NisyrouHotel Attalos........................... 26
La
ogou DRINKING
K
Hotel Cecil...............................27 D6
Alekos'
Island...........................44 B6
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Hotel Exarchion.......................28 G2
Bartessera.................................45 F6
Athens Academy..................... 10 G5
Stournara
Fidelio......................................46 C6
Athens University.................... 11 G5
Iliou
Church of Agii Theodori...........12 E6
Kinky....................................... 47 D6
EATING
M
ez
Traffic
Police
onos
City of Athens Museum...........13 F6
Arheon Gefsis..........................
Magaze...................................
29 A2
Vatsaxi 48 D6
ni
ar
Soul.........................................49 C5
Epigraphical Museum...............
Athens Central Market............ 30 D5
M
mahis 14 F2
2
Solom
Andro
ou
Hellenic Cultural Centre...........
Barba Gianni's..........................31 G2
Wunderbar.............................. 50 G2
15 D2
Myrrinousion
Diporto
Agoras........................32 D5
National Archaeological Pelopos
Public Toilets
Food Company........................33 G3
Museum...............................16 F1
Omonia

at
Aftokr

C
Nikomidias

CITY

105

0.2 miles

m
Kou

B
National Historical
Museum......17
Eratyras
ti
National
Library........................18
Sfakion 19
Numismatic Museum...............
Theatre Museum..................... 20

Psilori

CTRY

250 m

tsi
Skyli

Evrostinis
ous INFORMATION

fthymen

Dorou

CTRY

Sidirodr
omon

OMONIA & EXARHIA

104
CITY

0
0

CTRY

us
no
fa
eo

va
sto
up
ole

Ki
fis
ia
s

Le
of

Ak
arn
an
ias

f
Zaharo

p ou
lou
ko
ala

M
ih

Palm

lof

mou
Polufi

tos

aman
ntio

uG
ri

A4
D5
C5

SLEEPING
Hilton.........................................26 E5
Periscope Hotel..........................27 C4
St George Lycabettus Hotel........28 B4

rat

DRINKING
City............................................
34 C4
Tax
ilou
35 B5
Da Capo.....................................
Rosebud....................................36 A4
ast

B5
A3
C2

Sidonos

B5
A5
C4
C3
B4

Tsir
k

C5
C3

ropo
ulou

B5

EATING
Kotopoula Valsamakis................
29
Av
ud
30
Marinopoulos............................
ou
Oikeio........................................31
Thru
gias
32
Orizontes...................................
Papadakis...................................33
Gou
na

Sat
o

mis

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Benaki Museum..........................17
Rou
Byzantine & Christian
me li
s
Museum.................................
18
Chapel of Agios Giorgios............19
Goulandris Museum of Cycladic
& Ancient Greek Art.............. 20
Hellenic-American Union...........21
Lykavittos Hill............................22
Museum of the History of
Greek Costume......................23
National Art Gallery...................24
War Museum............................ 25

Maikina
u

fA
uxe

Theod

hy
lid
ou

s
m
eli

Va
k

Il
ou

i an

ilo
u
dif

Ou

M
ih
Po
ta
m

An

Se

ro
u

os

Th
s
ou
fan

Th

Eslin

eo

Poulio
u

Pa
ste
ur

ias
op
Alm

So
fia
s

Va
sil
iss
is
nd

nis
Ar

ea
M

no

Xenar
co

Ge
lo
no
s

Se

Hr

ou

Vo
ur
na
z

Soutso

ndos

Timol
eo

Mela M
ih

iG
in
Sis

yo
s

no

Ag G
erasim
ou
Sogdia
nis

Filimo
n

os

B i gli
stas

s
Astydamanto

Merkouri Sp
yrou

Pratinou

a
N

Rigillis

Al

Douka

us

Ptolemeon

ou

Klea
nth
o

Misthou

u
Neofyto
u

Me

ENTERTAINMENT
Lykavittos Theatre.....................37
Megaron....................................38
Mike's Irish Bar..........................39
Palenque....................................40

D2
F3
G2
H3

TRANSPORT
Funicular Railway.......................41 C4

THUMB TAB

Stisihorou

ou
Pano
rm

Mileon
Polym
oshov
iti

anas

Degler
i

Kouzi

Dimits

Kyrillo
u Louk
areos
Pitanis Koniari
Gerosta
thi

u D

gou

H Kyriakou P
an
Paprysost
ado om
pou ou
lou Agio
n Pa
ndon

afkon
Apok

Panath
inai
kou

Kassia
nis

Gr i g T
heolo

Pl
ith
on
os

ho

THUMB TAB

a ki

il i
ou
ro
u

Sg

fn
o

Da

Xa
nt

Eurun
omis

ato
us

THUMB TAB

Koumbari

u
ulo

Vamva Neofytou

po

Irodou Attikou

no

Sekeri

THUMB TAB

an
Gi

Merlin

u
sio

ton
da

dia
Ly

a
sik
lyt
O

See Syntagma & Monastiraki Map (pp1023)

Plateia
Agiou
Thoma

ran
Fa

Del

40

ias
As

nto
Theodama

Zalokost
a

a
om
Th
Po

sta
na
pa
Pa

ias
akl
oir
nd
Po

Leo

sa

INFORMATION
Albanian Embassy........................1 E3
Aliens Bureau.............................(see 2)
Athens Central Police Station........2 F1
s
Australian Embassy......................
3 G1
Porta
on
Canadian nEmbassy.......................
4 D5
e
t
S
Cypriot Embassy.......................... 5 C5
French Embassy...........................6 A5
N Embassy......................... 7 C5
German
e
is
Italian Embassy.............................
8 B5
et
em
is
Japanese
9 G2
Pr Embassy........................
an
pli
New ZealandyEmbassy................
10 B5
m
as
Ol
r
C6
Scoutway...................................
11
u
as
iso
as 12 F3
Serbian & Montenegrin
Embassy..
Kl
oli
an
South African Embassy...............
13 E5
M
li
Turkish Embassy.........................
D e v o 14 B6
UK Embassy...............................15 C5
US Embassy................................16 F3

u
nto

on
ktr
kr

os

THUMB TAB

Ag

oro
rop
Ae

Lef

nis
psa
Ra

a
iki

ulo

ole

Pa

Ana
kreo
nto
s

feo
u

u
im
itr
es

ndo

lou
ou
op

od

ah
ou

Nym
ou

ap

ras
Lau
A
Ag si C &
rkou
Mou
Stra
tarc
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andreou G
Leof Pap
ou
sipp
Cru
Mpisk
Eueun
ini D
omis

Kal
listr

ke

r
Tet

Leo
f

Ilissia

La

An
dim

nou

an

Al

Seli

n
no
ve

stia

Plateia
Vrazilias
n
io
Il i s

rga

r
Ve

nto

Po

nd
ma
di a
pa

flio

is

Mi

Zahou A

ou
oulou
kop
ala

s
no

op

Sin

u
sto

Ne

nia

Xe

os
lid
os
Av
ole
up
ro
d
n
a
ex
Al

sak

ou

s
no
ro
of

is

dik

ru

Eu

u
ro

ha

Effronio
u

po

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Di

Andinoros

Effroniou

Leof Vas. Ge
orgiou

o
la k
Miha
s
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Th
ini
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O
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m
ou
ag
Dr

rou
s
kia
Ly

Ev

mp

tel

ido

os

va

Plateia
Madritis
ida
as
Vr

no

ria

Se

National
Art Gallery

Eg
in
ito

os

ou
dr
an
ex
Al o u
s dr
Va xan
of le
Le s A
s
Va
to
of
on
Le
ak
Dr

ri

Riza

11

ela

erm
Mimn ou

Plateia
Trouman

Timarhou

Va

km

Alkimahou

tin

an

h
Ar

ou
Meleagr

Leof Vas. Ge
orgiou
14

n
do
ia

ou

of
Le

Al

24

Niriidon

s.

Vla
dim
iro
u

ou

in

Ev

as

sa

li
rta
Ka

on

ou
tin
an

Ke

don

s
Va

nd

las

t
ro

of

Ko

t
ns

Hilton
26

Mourouzi

st

so
u

La

mi

ra

hia

To National
Glyptoteque
(1.5km); Semiramis
Hotel (15km);
Vi
Attica Zoological
ot
ias
Et
Park (20km)
ol
ias

Ev

ni

12

Ke

g
Vi

lk
Ha

39

s
kia
ha
Lit

M a ke

Evangelismos

sta

Plateia
Mavili

Se
uro

Ly
ka
o

An
dre
Py
as
rri
An

s
to

15
fias
s So
lissi
Vasi
s
o
or
Leof
18 25

n
Ko

Di
on
ys
io
u

Iri
da

An

tos

os

on

hi
La

Plateia
Megalis tou
Genous Sholi

a
Ypsil

16

Lo

Megaro
Moussikis

exi
nni M
gia
tzi
Ha
ri K
Venti

dou

li

n
no

13

traki
is Pe
Mon

31

eado

10

Ravin

Karn

u I
ad i o

I
atera

Le

National
Gardens

leou

Din

o
vz

iko

ion

sog

Me

Ambelokipi

Ag

T
Vaimol
sso eo
u n

pidou

Plateia
Evangelikis
Sholis

Pa

u
Iasio

F i d ip

i a di

ha

Eleftherias
Park

Gen

20

27

eim
Ioak

sli

li

idias

Mara

Kapsa

Lykiou

Athan
as

do

Ko
rin
t

ndras

Ha

Megaron 38
Moussikis

Ben
si

ou
tarh
Plou

Vasilissis
Sofias

17

tiou

mou
Pole

rhou

itos

ekis
Alop

otou
Irod

nou

Dory

Ko
kk
a

tou

ra
ok

Sou

34

u
sipo

Har

ou

l ou

ia

tou

Spe

kian

Lou

u
po
sto
no
ag
An

ni

Kolonaki

ou

Patr

v
Le

Xe

ra
ok

u
aro

n
piro
Ana

tarh

ou

Ahe

d
en

Plateia
Dante

Plou

o
lid
ky
Fo

mo

28

Plateia
Kolonakiou

29

ou

us
eno

ilio

Parliament
Building

n th

Plateia ippo
u
Dexameni
nos
G ly ko

35

Kanari

m
Kleo
Xa

30

ou
ot
iez
Kr

41

es
nd
Sy

ito

or

la
Va

Ira

Leof A
lexa

tz

L
etea
op
Sk

Plateia
Kitsiki Nik.

tip
Aris

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atr

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Ag. Dimitriou

107

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THUMB TAB

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French
Institute

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Kolonaki

Sk
kis

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23
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tz i

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hin
At

eha
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u
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Th

s
Va

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Strefi
Hill

Irin

E rs

m
ro
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Ka

as
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Pou

CITY

200 m
0.1 miles

THUMB TAB

0
0

KOLONAKI & AMBELOKIPI

lB
en

CTRY

See Omonia & Exarhia Map (pp1045)

106
CITY

Athens'
First
Cemetery
2

Lo

D1
D1
C2
D1
C2
Pn
B4yta
D2 gora

ndro

a
Terp

Internet Resources

u
Sostrato
Hatzimihali

nt
zi

Ka

za

s
M ys o n o u
Hatzipetro

vr
os
io
u

Am
Fr
an
tz
i

ias

im
ah
Ly
s

d
O
ou
ou
lir
ts
Fa
ou
r
d
n
A

Ambulance/First-Aid Advice (%166)

Duty Doctors & Hospitals (%1434 in Greek) Published in Kathimerini.

Pharmacies (%1434 in Greek) Check pharmacy

windows for notice of nearest duty pharmacy. There is a
24-hour pharmacy at the airport.
SOS Doctors (%1016, 210 821 1888; h24hr) Pay
service with English-speaking doctors.

Money
Most major banks have branches around
Syntagma and there are ATMs all over the
city. Standard bank opening hours are 8am
to 2.30pm Monday to Thursday and 8am to
2pm on Friday, though some private banks
open certain branches until 8pm weekdays
and on Saturday.
American Express (Map pp102-3; %210 324 4979;

Laundry

Post

Left Luggage
Many hotels will store luggage free for guests,
although most do no more than pile the bags
in a hallway. Youll find left-luggage facilities
at the airport and at the metro stations at
Omonia, Monastiraki and Piraeus.
Pacific Travel Luggage Storage (Map pp102-3;

Athens Central post office (Map pp104-5; www.elta.gr;

Eolou 100, Omonia; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm
Sat) Unless specified otherwise, all poste restante is sent here.
Parcel post office (Map pp102-3; Nikis 33, Syntagma;
h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Parcels weighing over 2kg must
be taken here, unwrapped, for inspection.
Syntagma post office (Map pp102-3; Plateia Syntagma; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat)

Telephone

%210 324 1007; Nikis 26, Syntagma; per day 2;

h8am-8pm Mon-Sat)

Public phones all over Athens allow local, long

distance and international calls. They only take
phonecards, which are available at kiosks.

Media

Toilets

Sikelias
vr
ou

Orlof

ein

Ag

la

Ts

ni

da

Go

am

ufie

O
ly

bi

ou

Medical Services

events and other useful information.

www.culture.gr The revamped Ministry of Culture
guide to museums, archaeological sites and cultural events
around Greece.

Tourism and Economic Development Agency.

www.cityofathens.gr City of Athens site with walks,

Angelou Geronta 10, Plaka; wash & dry 5kg 9; h8am7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun)

M
or
ea
s

Insider Monthly magazine aimed at visitors and foreigners living in Greece.

Kathimerini (www.ekathimerini.com) The International
Herald Tribune publishes an eight-page English-language
edition of this Greek daily, with news, arts, cinema listings
and daily ferry schedules.
Odyssey (www.odyssey.gr) Bimonthly Greek diaspora
magazine; publishes an annual summer guide to Athens.

Ermou 7, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Eurochange Syntagma (Map pp102-3; %210 322 0155;
Karageorgi Servias 2, Syntagma; h8am-9pm); Omonia
(Map pp104-5; %210 552 2314; Kotopoulou 1) Exchanges
Thomas Cook travellers cheques without commission.
National Bank of Greece (Map pp102-3; %210 334
0500; cnr Karageorgi Servias & Stadiou, Syntagma) Has a
24-hour automatic exchange machine.

www.athenstourism.gr A handy site from the Athens

Plaka Laundrette (Map pp102-3; %210 321 3102;

Za
n

Koukaki

DRINKING
Granazi....................................
15 D2
SLEEPING
An
etrou
Acropolis View...........................6 B1
Lamda
di
GeomClub.............................16 D2
sth
orou
d
o
e
B2
Art
Gallery
Hotel........................
7
u
h
en
T
silao
oAthens
Arke
us
Backpackers...................8 D1
ENTERTAINMENT
Half Note Jazz Club..................17 E3
Hera Hotel.................................9 C2

F4
D2
D2
A2
oulo
SIGHTS
Bo &PaACTIVITIES
ndop
Athens'tsFirst
ar Cemetery...............2
iM
GO Tours.................................. 3
ar
ko
Key Tours..................................
4
u
Monument of Filoppapos...........5

26

Zi
ni

u
iko
Ve
Bo
To ts
us ari
a

11

n
La
ze
o

Ambati

toliou

TRANSPORT
Avis.........................................
21
u
Yvrio
Budget.....................................22
Europcar...................................23
Hertz........................................
24
ylis
Ang
Motorent.................................25
Olympic Airlines.......................26
Sixt..........................................27

Men

o
Theon

ro

do
ll o

Ap
o

Syngrou-Fix

N
lou
ou
op
k
a Bo
itr
tsa
im
ri
BDo
No
tsa
ti
Vy
ri
To
za
us
nd
a
io
u
H
r

Plateia
Gargarettas

EATING
Strofi........................................
14 B1
u

C1
A3
B3
C2
idos
Zefx

to
u
Herodion..................................
10
u
Hotel Tony...............................11
Marble House Pension.............12
Philippos Hotel.........................
13
s

Aglaonikis

us
Ira
kle
o

uS
Kolitra
nd tig
ouou
li

Ko
nd
o

ni
Gio

ko
u
ri
M
ar
Bo
tsa

so
n

INFORMATION
D
ou Police..............................1 B2
Tourist
Seh

ro
is

Fa

Ka

llir

u
iro
St 19
ra
1 tigo
u

7
Lia

ko
u

Dr

ak

ou

Sofroniskou

Thiramenous

Ratzieri

ileo
Dex

is
Iol

Ty
m
fri
s

lli
23

Fa

Strateon

si
Tsami Karata

tm 13
ez
a
Pe

Kavalloti

Fratti
14
6

Gall
i

o
On the Road.............................
18 F1
Kels
Small Music Theatre.................19 B2
Vitrine......................................
20 F1
s
o
n

n
nia

o
zik
Ra

o
Tim

Theofilopoulou
Plateia
Ag. Pandeleimonos
lo u
ou
ani
op
ev
Sism
k
s
ra
Pa
Plateia
Kynosargous

rro
Ka

Hatz
ihris
to

Zitrou

25

10
Hotel Herodion

Promahou

Kallisperi

Dionysi
ou Areo
pagitou

u
liro

Makrygianni

Akropoli

Acropolis
Museum

Do

nd

aS

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gri

Th

27

o
Triv

17

Vo

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16
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hrou

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siou
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A th

3
24

22

3
n ou
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vg

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a M

P ig

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See Syntagma & Monastiraki Map (pp1023)

oni
ats
Pap

20
18

t ou

Ardit

Alsos
Longinou

1
Temple
of Olympian
Zeus

THUMB TAB

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Athens Centre

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Public
Toilets

F MB TAB
THU

Zappeio
Gardens
O lg
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as
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T H U M B T AE B
Hadrians
Arch

ou

Filopappou
Hill

GaR
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ti

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vou

ar
at
as
i

ou

vro

Ma

iK

er

og

th

Sta

Web
st

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ian
n

Ro
v

rit
sa

imitrios

Za
ha

ako

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Garivald

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lik

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Vrytou

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Propyleon

Most midrange and top-end hotels have inroom internet access. There are free wireless
hot spots at Plateia Syntagma, Gazi and the
Port of Piraeus (more neighbourhoods were
coming online), as well as in Starbucks cafs
and some McDonalds. Internet cafs around
the city centre charge 2 to 4 per hour.
Bits & Bytes Internet Caf (Map pp102-3; Kapnikareas
19; per hr 3; h24hr)
Cyberzone (Map pp104-5;%210 520 3939; Satovrianidou 7, Omonia; per hr 2;h24hr) Cheaper rates of 1.50
per hour apply between midnight and 8am.
Ivis Internet (Map pp102-3; Mitropoleos 3, Syntagma;
per hr 3; h24hr)
Museum Internet Caf (Map pp104-5; %210 883
3418; 28 Oktovriou-Patision 46, Omonia; per hr 4.40;
h10am-2am Mon-Fri, 11am-2am Sat & Sun) Next to the
National Archaeological Museum.

Ekate

Mak
rygia

Strat
igou

Erehthiou

An

os

iad

Dil

Sy
ng
ro

Vyronos

Theorias

tou
u
okri
imo
The
Alk
ou
it
r
k
o
The
dou
ahi
dim
An

Makri
s

esi
Ingl

hou

Evdo

Ka
lli
rro

ko

Plateia
Tsokri

Na

zi

ry

Ko

Tzireon

rH

Ne
ze

Iras

D i no

ous

en
tag
Me
u
o
t
a
st r

Th
ar
yp
ou

Leof Syngrou Andrea

Hotel Parthenon

ou
hm
ne
Me

eou
Pyth
ra
nase
Vou

enou

Lahouri

on

r it i

a
a rg

os

iid

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Vr

to

Los
sif
Rog

21

ou

Fo

Ko

oulo

dop

man

Dia

kk
ini

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Fi v

x
Timo

Kl
ad
od
a
or
ito
u

enis
liagm
Vou
Leof

pou

om

Efp

on o

Lassani Th
e

rea

Ka

Internet Access

m
Arte

is

fne

De

T H U M B T A BEshin

us
rato
nek
Me

ar

os
fse
apa
An

Typ
teo
u
Partheno

Vekou 43-45, Koukaki; h8am-10pm)

Visitor Emergency Assistance (%112) Toll-free 24hr
service in English or French.

os

ole

up

Ilio

Vr
es
th
en

ou

lam

Ma

Mitromara

T AH U M B T A B

isto

An Arg
ag yri
no
sti

u
s y ll o

Police (%100)
Tourist police (Map p108; 24hr %171, 210 920 0724;

Ar

fko

Porinou

(Continued from page 99)

o
nik

Gla

Theatre
of Dionysos

lou
rvo
So

Go
rgio
u

Atticus

ou

iad

Ha
rvo
uri

T h ra

hi
va
ur
Vo

leou

Koutoula

n ou

Fot

thok

K
nou
Bala

AT H E N S I n f o r m a t i o n 109

Athens News (www.athensnews.gr) Published every

Friday; provides entertainment listings.

Public toilets are relatively scarce in Athens

and keep inconsistent hours, though there

ATHENS & ATTICA

Bala

www.lonelyplanet.com

u
uro
uso
Mo

rkou
Ma

ki
ou
oto
our
The
ous
uM
o
k
r
Ma

200 m
0.1 miles

Aga

CTRY

Frynihou

0
0

MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI

108

CITY

are 24-hour portable, self-cleaning pay toilets

(0.50) around the centre. Fast-food outlets are
also handy and cafs will normally let you use
their facilities. Big hotels are also a safe bet.

Tourist Information
EOT Syntagma (Greek National Tourist Organisation; Map
pp102-3; %210 331 0392; www.gnto.gr; Amalias 26a,
Syntagma; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun);
Airport (%210 353 0445-7; Arrivals Hall; h9am-6pm
Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) Has a handy free map
of Athens, weekly ferry timetables and public transport
information. You can also pick up a free copy of the glossy
Athens & Attica booklet.
Tourist police (%171; h24hr) General tourist
information and emergency help.

www.lonelyplanet.com

spread. The scam involves taxi drivers picking

up late-night arrivals and persuading them
that the hotel they want to go to is full even
if they have a booking. The taxi driver will
pretend to phone the hotel, announce that its
full and suggest an alternative. Ask to speak to
the hotel yourself, or simply insist on going
where you want to go.
TRAVEL AGENTS

Athens has its fair share of the problems found

in all major cities but is considered one of the
safest capitals in Europe. Violent street crime
remains very rare, but travellers should be
alert to the traps listed here.

Some travel agents in the Plaka/Syntagma area

employ touts to promote cheap packages to
the islands. These touts hang out at the bus
and metro stops hoping to find naive new arrivals, who they take back to the agency, where
slick salespeople pressure them into buying
outrageously overpriced packages. There is
no need to buy a package; you will always be
able to negotiate a better deal yourself when
you get to the island of your choice. If you are
worried that everywhere will be full, select a
place from the pages of this guide and make
your own booking.

Pickpockets

Slippery Surfaces

The favourite hunting grounds for pickpockets are the metro system and the crowded
streets around Omonia, particularly Athinas,
and the Monastiraki flea market.

Many of Athens pavements and other surfaces underfoot are made of marble and become incredibly slippery when wet, so tread
carefully if you are caught in the rain.

Scams

Spiked Drinks

BAR SCAMS

Some bars and clubs in Athens serve what are

locally known as bombes, adulterated drinks
that have been diluted with cheap illegal imports resembling brand-name spirits. These
drinks can leave you feeling very worse for
wear the next day. One way to avoid the risk
is to drink beer and alcoholic drinks that are
bottled, or ensure that you ask for a drink with
a distinctive taste, or name your brand.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Many unsuspecting travellers have been

taken in by the various bar scams that operate around central Athens, particularly
around Syntagma.
One scam runs something like this: friendly
Greek approaches solo male traveller and asks
for the time or where he is from; friendly
Greek then reveals that he, too, is from out
of town or does the old Ah, I have a cousin
in Australia routine and suggests they go to
a bar for a drink. Before they know it women
appear and more drinks are ordered and the
conman disappears. The women are not prostitutes, but the traveller is left to pay an exorbitant bill, which is when the smiles disappear
and the atmosphere turns threatening. Other
bars lure intoxicated males with talk of sex and
present them with outrageous bills.
TAXI TOUTS

Taxi drivers working in league with some of

the overpriced C-class hotels around Omonia
are another problem, though its not wide-

Taxi Drivers
Athenian taxi drivers have an awful reputation
and it is certainly not entirely undeserved
most locals and tourists alike will have horror
rip-off stories to report. The standards of the
citys taxis and their drivers manners have
improved dramatically overall. However, it is
still a bit of a toss-up whether you get polite,
efficient and honest service or one of the nasty
ones. Beware, its often the friendly ones that
are the worst offenders.
Most (but not all) rip-offs involve taxis
picked up late at night from the taxi ranks at
the airport, the train stations, the bus termi-

www.lonelyplanet.com

nals and the port of Piraeus. Some drivers at

these ranks dont like to bother with the meter
and demand whatever they think they can get
away with and refuse to take you if you insist
on using the meter. Only negotiate a set fare
if you have some idea of the cost, but you are
better off finding another taxi and getting the
drivers details to report them to the tourist
police. At Piraeus, avoid the drivers at the port
exit asking if you need a taxi its better to
hail one off the street further away.
In extreme cases, drivers have accelerated
meters or switch them to night rate (tariff
2 lights up) during the day. Some will also
often add their tip to the price they quote.
Check the extra charges for airport pick-ups
and tolls, which are set and must be displayed
in every taxi.
The best way to protect yourself is to record
the taxis number plates and ask for a receipt
they are obligated to provide one and most
have electronic receipt machines installed
(though many do not work). If you do have
a dispute, call the police (%100), insist the
driver takes you to the local police station
to sort it out, or take the driver and taxis
registration number and report them to the
tourist police.

SIGHTS

The Acropolis

The Acropolis (Map p112; %210 321 0219; adult/concession 12/6; h8am-7pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar;
w) is the most important ancient site in the

Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon,

it stands sentinel over Athens, visible from
almost everywhere within the city. Its monuments of Pentelic marble gleam white in the
midday sun and gradually take on a honey
hue as the sun sinks, while at night they hover
above the city brilliantly illuminated. The sudden glimpse of this magnificent sight cannot
fail to lift your spirits.
Inspiring as these monuments are, they are
but faded remnants of Pericles city. Pericles
spared no expense only the best materials,
architects, sculptors and artists were good
enough for a city dedicated to the cult of
Athena. The city was a showcase of colossal buildings, lavishly coloured, and of gargantuan statues, some of bronze, others of
marble plated with gold and encrusted with
precious stones.
There are several approaches to the site.
The main approach from Plaka is along the

AT H E N S S i g h t s 111

path that is a continuation of Dioskouron.

From the south, you can walk along Dionysiou Areopagitou to the path just beyond the
Odeon of Herodes Atticus to get to the main
entrance or you can go through the Theatre of Dionysos entrance near the Akropoli
metro station, and wind your way up from
there. Anyone carrying a backpack or large
bag (including camera bags) can only enter
from the main entrance, where you must leave
your bags at the cloakroom.
Get here as early as possible, or go late in
the afternoon, as it gets incredibly crowded.
Wear shoes with good soles because the paths
around the site are uneven and slippery. The
Acropolis is now accessible to people in
wheelchairs, with a cage lift rising vertically
up the rock face on the northern side. People
needing assistance should present at the
main entrance.
The Acropolis admission includes entry to
other sites (see boxed text, p117).
HISTORY

The Acropolis (high city) was first inhabited

in Neolithic times. The first temples were built
during the Mycenaean era in homage to the
goddess Athena. People lived on the Acropolis
until the late 6th century BC, but in 510 BC
the Delphic oracle declared that it should be
the province of the gods.
After all the buildings on the Acropolis
were reduced to ashes by the Persians on
the eve of the Battle of Salamis (480 BC),
Pericles set about his ambitious rebuilding
programme. He transformed the Acropolis into a city of temples, which has come
to be regarded as the zenith of classical
Greek achievement.
Ravages inflicted upon them during the
years of foreign occupation, pilfering by
foreign archaeologists, inept renovations
following Independence, visitors footsteps
and earthquakes have all taken their toll on
the surviving monuments. The worst blow
was in 1687 when the Venetians attacked
the Turks and opened fire on the Acropolis, causing an explosion in the Parthenon,
where the Turks were storing gunpowder.
The resulting fire blazed for two days, damaging all the buildings.
The most recent menace is acid rain, which
is caused by industrial pollution and traffic
fumes, which is dissolving the very marble
of which the monuments are built. Major

ATHENS & ATTICA

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110 AT H E N S D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s

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0
0

ACROPOLIS
A

ria

eo

Th

100 m

0.1 miles

To Roman Agora (250m);

Ancient Agora (300m);
Plaka (500m)

Lift

5
10

12
11

To Thisio
(750m)

aic Way

Panathen

4
9

14

Lift
16

Main Entrance
8

2
2

7
13

15
Wheelchair Access

Altar of Rome & Augustus.......1

Asclepion.................................2
Beul Gate...............................3
Entrance Court.........................4
Erechtheion..............................5
Monument of Agrippa..............6
Odeon of Herodes Atticus........7
Panagia Hrysospiliotissa...........8

C1
C2
B1
B1
C1
B1
B2
C2

Parthenon................................9
Porch of the Caryatids............10
Propylaia................................11
Statue of Athena Promachos..12
Stoa of Eumenes....................13
Temple of Athena Nike..........14
Theatre of Dionysos...............15
Wall of Cimon....................... 16

restoration programmes are continuing in

an effort to save the monuments for future
generations. The Acropolis has World Heritage Site status.
BEUL GATE & MONUMENT OF AGRIPPA

Once inside the site, a little way along the

path, on your left you will see the Beul Gate,
named after the French archaeologist Ernest
Beul, who uncovered it in 1852. The 8m
pedestal on the left, halfway up the zigzag
ramp leading to the Propylaia, was once
topped by the Monument of Agrippa, a bronze
statue of the Roman general riding a chariot.
Now destroyed, it was erected in 27 BC to
commemorate victory in a chariot race at
the Panathenaic games.
PROPYLAIA

The Propylaia formed the towering entrance

to the Acropolis in ancient times. Built by
Mnesicles between 437 BC and 432 BC, its
architectural brilliance ranks with that of
the Parthenon. It consists of a central hall,
with two wings on either side. Each section
had a gate, and in ancient times these five

C2
C1
B1
B1
C2
B2
D3
D2

Dionysiou Are
opagitou
To Akropoli Metro
Station (200m);
Syntagma (750m)

gates were the only entrances to the upper

city. The middle gate (which was the largest) opened onto the Panathenaic Way. The
western portico of the Propylaia must indeed
have been imposing, consisting of six double columns, Doric on the outside and Ionic
on the inside. The fourth column along has
been restored. The ceiling of the central hall
was painted with gold stars on a dark-blue
background. The northern wing was used
as a pinakothiki (art gallery) and the south
wing was the antechamber to the Temple of
Athena Nike.
The Propylaia is aligned with the Parthenon the earliest example of a building
designed in relation to another. It remained
intact until the 13th century, when various
occupiers started adding to it. It was badly
damaged in the 17th century when a lightning strike set off an explosion in a Turkish
gunpowder store. Archaeologist Heinrich
Schliemann paid for the removal of one of
its appendages a Frankish tower in the
19th century. Reconstruction took place between 1909 and 1917, and there was further
restoration after WWII.

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AT H E N S S i g h t s 113

PANATHENAIC WAY

was carefully reconstructed between 1836

and 1842, but was taken apart 50 years later
because the platform was crumbling.

The Panathenaic Way, which cuts across the

middle of the Acropolis, was the route taken
by the Panathenaic procession the climax
of the Panathenaia festival held to venerate
the goddess Athena. There were actually two
festivals: the Lesser Panathenaic Festival took
place annually on Athenas birthday, and the
Great Panathenaic Festival was held on every
fourth anniversary of the goddesss birth.
The Great Panathenaic Festival began with
dancing, followed by athletic, dramatic and
musical contests. The Panathenaic procession, which took place on the final day of the
festival, began at Keramikos and ended at the
Erechtheion. Men carrying animals sacrificed
to Athena headed the procession, followed
by maidens carrying rhytons (horn-shaped
drinking vessels). Behind them musicians
played a fanfare for the girls of noble birth
who followed, proudly holding aloft the sacred
peplos (a glorious saffron-coloured shawl). At
the rear were old men bearing olive branches.
The processions grand finale was the placing
of the peplos on the statue of Athena Polias in
the Erechtheion.
TEMPLE OF ATHENA NIKE

The exquisitely proportioned little Temple of

Athena Nike once stood on a platform perched
atop the steep southwest edge of the Acropolis, to the right of the Propylaia. It may well
be there by the time you read this, but the
temple was dismantled piece by piece in 2003
in a controversial move to restore it offsite.
It was supposed to be back in time for the
Olympics, but only parts had reappeared at
the time of research.
Designed by Callicrates, the temple was
built of Pentelic marble between 427 BC and
424 BC. The building is almost square, with
four graceful Ionic columns at either end.
Only fragments remain of the frieze, which
had scenes from mythology on the east and
south sides, and scenes from the Battle of Plataea (479 BC) and Athenians fighting Boeotians and Persians on the other sides. Parts
of the frieze are in the Acropolis Museum
(p115), as are some relief sculptures, including
the beautiful sculpture of Athena Nike fastening her sandal. The temple housed a statue of
the goddess Athena.
This is the third time the temple has been
dismantled. The Turks took it apart in 1686
and put a huge cannon on the platform. It

STATUE OF ATHENA PROMACHOS

Continuing ahead along the Panathenaic Way

you will see, to your left, the foundations of
pedestals for the statues that once lined the
path, including one that held Pheidias 9mhigh statue of Athena Promachos (promachos
means champion). Symbolising Athenian
invincibility against the Persians, the helmeted
goddess held a shield in her left hand and a
spear in her right. The statue was carted off
to Constantinople by Emperor Theodosius
in AD 426. By 1204 it had lost its spear, so
the hand appeared to be gesturing. This led
the inhabitants to believe that the statue had
beckoned the crusaders to the city, so they
smashed it to pieces.
PARTHENON

The Parthenon is the monument that more

than any other epitomises the glory of ancient Greece. Parthenon means virgins apartment. This is the largest Doric temple ever
completed in Greece, and the only one built
completely (apart from its wooden roof) of
Pentelic marble.
Built on the highest part of the Acropolis,
the Parthenon had a dual purpose to house
the great statue of Athena commissioned by
Pericles, and to serve as the new treasury. It
was built on the site of at least four earlier temples dedicated to the worship of Athena. It was
designed by Ictinus and Callicrates, under the
surveillance of Pheidias, to be the pre-eminent
monument of the Acropolis. Building began
in 447 BC and was completed in time for the
Great Panathenaic Festival of 438 BC.
The temple consisted of eight fluted Doric
columns at either end and 17 on each side. To
achieve perfect form, its lines were ingeniously
curved to create an optical illusion the foundations are slightly concave and the columns
are slightly convex to make both look straight.
Supervised by Pheidias, the sculptors Agoracritos and Alcamenes worked on the pediments and the sculpted sections of the frieze
(metopes), which were brightly coloured and
gilded. There were 92 metopes, 44 statues and
a frieze, which went all the way around.
The metopes on the eastern side depicted
Athenians fighting gigantions (giants), and on
the western side they showed Theseus leading

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the Athenians into battle against the Amazons. Those on the southern side represented
the contest of the Lapiths and Centaurs at the
marriage feast of Pierithos. An Ionic frieze
159.5m long ran all around the Parthenon.
Much of it was damaged in the explosion of
1687, but the greatest existing part (over 75m)
consists of the much-publicised Parthenon
Marbles, now in the British Museum in London. The British government continues to
scorn Greek requests for their return.
The ceiling of the Parthenon, like that of the
Propylaia, was painted blue and gilded with
stars. At the eastern end was the holy cella
(inner room of a temple), into which only a
few privileged initiates could enter.
Here stood the statue for which the temple was built the Athena Polias (Athena of
the City) considered one of the wonders of
the ancient world. Designed by Pheidias and
completed in 432 BC, it was gold plated over
an inner wooden frame, and stood almost
12m high on its pedestal. The face, hands
and feet were made of ivory, and the eyes
were fashioned from jewels. The goddess was
clad in a long dress of gold with the head of
Medusa carved in ivory on her breast. In her
right hand, she held a statuette of Nike (the
goddess of victory) and in her left a spear; at
the base of the spear was a serpent. She wore
a helmet, on top of which was a sphinx with
griffins in relief at either side.
In AD 426 the statue was taken to Constantinople, where it disappeared. There is a
Roman copy (the Athena Varvakeion) in the
National Archaeological Museum (p120).

(except for one removed by Lord Elgin) are in

the Acropolis Museum (opposite).
The Erechtheion was part of Pericles plan,
but the project was postponed after the outbreak of the Peloponnesian Wars, and work
did not start until 421 BC, eight years after his
death. It is thought to have been completed
in 406 BC.
The Erechtheion is architecturally the
most unusual monument of the Acropolis,
a supreme example of Ionic architecture.
Ingeniously built on several levels to counteract the unevenness of the ground, it consists of three basic parts the main temple,
northern porch and southern porch all with
different dimensions.
The main temple is of the Ionic order and
is divided into two cellae one dedicated to
Athena, the other to Poseidon representing
a reconciliation of the two deities after their
contest. In Athenas cella stood an olive-wood
statue of Athena Polias holding a shield on
which was a gorgons head. The statue was
illuminated by a golden lantern placed at its
feet. It was this statue on which the sacred
peplos was placed at the culmination of the
Great Panathenaic Festival.
The northern porch consists of six graceful Ionic columns; on the floor are the fissures supposedly cleft by Poseidons trident.
This porch leads into the Temenos of Pandrossos, where, according to mythology, the sacred olive brought forth by Athena grew. To
the south of here was the Cecropion King
Cecrops burial place.

ERECHTHEION

THEATRE OF DIONYSOS

Although the Parthenon was the most impressive monument of the Acropolis, it was more
of a showpiece than a sanctuary. That role
fell to the Erechtheion, built on the part of the
Acropolis held most sacred. It was here that
Poseidon struck the ground with his trident
and where Athena produced the olive tree (see
p95). Named after Erichthonius, a mythical
king of Athens, the temple housed the cults of
Athena, Poseidon and Erichthonius.
The Erechtheion is immediately recognisable by the six larger-than-life maiden columns
that support its southern portico, the muchphotographed Caryatids. They are so called
because the models for them were women
from Karyai (modern-day Karyes) in Lakonia.
Those you see are plaster casts. The originals

The importance of theatre in the Athenian

city-state can be gauged from the dimensions of the enormous Theatre of Dionysos on
the southeastern slope of the Acropolis.
The first theatre on this site was a timber structure erected sometime during the
6th century BC, after the tyrant Peisistratos
introduced the Festival of the Great Dionysia. Everyone attended the contests, where
men clad in goatskins sang and performed
dances, which were followed by feasting
and revelry.
During the golden age in the 5th century
BC, the annual festival was one of the major
events on the calendar. Politicians would
sponsor dramas by writers such as Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides, with some light

Southern Slope of the Acropolis

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relief provided by the bawdy comedies of Aristophanes. People came from all over Attica,
with their expenses met by the state.
The theatre was reconstructed in stone
and marble by Lycurgus between 342 BC and
326 BC, with a seating capacity of 17,000
spread over 64 tiers, of which about 20 survive.
Apart from the front row, the seats were built
of Piraeus limestone and were occupied by
ordinary citizens, although women were confined to the back rows. The front row had 67
thrones built of Pentelic marble, which were
reserved for festival officials and important
priests. The grandest was in the centre and
reserved for the Priest of Dionysos, who sat
shaded from the sun under a canopy. His seat
can be identified by well-preserved lion-claw
feet at either side. In Roman times, the theatre
was also used for state events and ceremonies,
as well as for performances.
The reliefs at the rear of the stage, mostly
of headless figures, depict the exploits of Dionysos and date from the 2nd century BC. The
two hefty, hunched-up guys who have managed to keep their heads are selini, worshippers of the mythical Selinos, the debauched
father of the satyrs, whose chief attribute
seems to have been an oversized phallus. His
favourite pastime was charging up mountains
in lecherous pursuit of nymphs. He was also
Dionysos mentor.
ASCLEPION & STOA OF EUMENES

Directly above the Theatre of Dionysos,

wooden steps lead up to a pathway. On the left
at the top of the steps is the Asclepion, which
was built around a sacred spring. The worship of Asclepius, the physician son of Apollo,
began in Epidavros and was introduced to
Athens in 429 BC at a time when plague was
sweeping the city.
Beneath the Asclepion is the Stoa of Eumenes,
a colonnade built by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum (197159 BC), as a shelter and promenade for theatre audiences.
ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS

The path continues west from the Asclepion to

the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in 161. Herodes
Atticus was a wealthy Roman who built the
theatre in memory of his wife Regilla. It was
excavated in 185758 and completely restored
between 1950 and 1961. There are performances of drama, music and dance here during

AT H E N S S i g h t s 115

the Hellenic Festival (p130). The theatre is open

to the public only during performances.
PANAGIA HRYSOSPILIOTISSA

Above the Theatre of Dionysos, you will see an

indistinct rock-strewn path leading to a grotto
in the cliff face. In 320 BC Thrasyllos turned
the grotto into a temple dedicated to Dionysos.
The tiny Panagia Hrysospiliotissa (Chapel of our
Lady of the Cavern) is now a poignant little
place with old pictures and icons on the walls.
Above the chapel are two Ionic columns, the
remains of Thrasyllos temple.

Acropolis Museum
The long-awaited new Acropolis Museum (Map
pp102-3;%210 321 0219; Makrygianni 2-4; h8am-7pm
Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar) was to open by 2008
on a massive site at the southern base of the
Acropolis.
Construction of the museum was plagued
by legal action and delays after the excavation
uncovered the remains of an Athenian city
dating back to prehistoric times. The impressive ruins have been incorporated into the
design, with around 2000 sq metres of the
old city on display in the basement through a
series of elevated walkways and glass floors.
Designed by leading architect Bernard Tschumi, the museum will bring together all the
surviving treasures of the Acropolis, including
ANCIENT PROMENADE
The once traffic-choked polluted streets
around Athens historic centre have been
transformed into a spectacular 3km pedestrian promenade connecting the citys
most significant ancient sites. Locals and
tourists alike delight in an evening volta
(walk) along the grand promenade one
of Europes longest pedestrian precincts
under the floodlit Acropolis.
Ancient Athens is also seen in a new
light, thanks to the brilliant illumination
of the Acropolis and key monuments by
French designer Pierre Bideau. The grand
promenade starts at Dionysiou Areopagitou,
opposite the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and
continues along the southern foothills of the
Acropolis, all the way to the Ancient Agora,
branching off from Thisio to Keramikos and
north along Adrianou to the Roman Agora,
Monastiraki and Plaka.

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114 AT H E N S S i g h t s

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0
0

ANCIENT AGORA
A

100 m
0.1 miles
15

Adria

To Syntagma
(1.5km)

nou

12
3
14
18

16

17

4
8

11

ay
W

those transferred from the old museum up on

the Acropolis, as well as pieces from other
Athenian museums and storage facilities.
The top-floor Parthenon Gallery has been
designed to showcase the temples frieze,
sculptures and metopes. There are empty
spaces for the missing pieces the controversial Parthenon Marbles currently residing
in the British Museum that were hacked off
by Lord Elgin in 1801. The pieces that escaped
Lord Elgins clutches depict the Olympians at
the Panathenaic procession.
A glass atrium will allow you to see the
Acropolis while you view the exhibits, though
the latest controversy involved the demolition of two historic buildings to make this
view unobstructed.
The museum collection (formerly in the
on-site museum) includes finds from the temples predating the Parthenon and destroyed
by the Persians, notably the pedimental sculptures of Heracles slaying the Lernaian Hydra
and of a lioness devouring a bull.
Prize exhibits are the 6th-century-BC
Kore (maiden) statues, uncovered from a
pit on the Acropolis, where the Athenians
buried them after the Battle of Salamis. The
statues were votives dedicated to Athena,
each one holding an offering to the goddess. The earliest of these Kore statues are
quite stiff and formal in comparison with
the later ones, which have flowing robes and
elaborate headdresses.
Other highlights include the relief of Athena
Nike adjusting her sandal, as well as four of

Vrissakiou

13
9

aic
en
th
na
Pa

Agora Museum............................. (see 11)

Altar of the Twelve Gods....................1 C1
Church of the Holy Apostles..............2 D2
Entrance.............................................3 C1
Metron.............................................4 C2
Middle Stoa........................................5 C2
Mosaic showing reconstruction of
Agora.............................................6 C1
New Bouleuterion...............................7 C1
Odeon of Agrippa..............................8 C2
Plan of Site.........................................9 B2
Sewer...............................................10 C2
Stoa of Attalos..................................11 D1
Stoa of Basileios................................12 C1
Stoa of the Giants.............................13 C1
Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios....................14 C1
Stoa Poikile.......................................15 C1
Temple of Apollo..............................16 C1
Temple of Ares.................................17 C1
Temple of Hephaestus......................18 B1
Tholos..............................................19 C2

Kladon

Peikilis

19
5

Taxiarhon

10

the five surviving Caryatids, from the Erechtheion. The fifth is in the British Museum.

Ancient Agora
Athens meeting place in ancient times was
the Agora (Map p116; %210 321 0185; Adrianou; adult/
concession 4/2). It was the focal point of administrative, commercial, political and social
activity. All roads led to the Agora, and it
was a lively, crowded place. Socrates spent
a lot of time here expounding his philosophy, and in AD 49 St Paul disputed daily in
the Agora, intent upon winning converts to
Christianity.
The site was first developed in the 6th century BC. It was devastated by the Persians in
480 BC, but a new agora was built in its place
almost immediately. It was flourishing by
Pericles time and continued to do so until AD
267, when it was destroyed by the Herulians,
a Gothic tribe from Scandinavia. The Turks
built a residential quarter on the site, but
this was demolished by archaeologists after
Independence. If theyd had their way, the
archaeologists would have also knocked down
the whole of Plaka, which was also Turkish.
The area has been excavated to classical and,
in parts, Neolithic levels.
The main monuments are the Temple
of Hephaestus, the Stoa of Attalos and the
Church of the Holy Apostles.
The site is bounded by Areopagus Hill in
the south, the AthensPiraeus metro Line
to the north, Plaka to the east and Apostolou Pavlou to the west. There are several

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R U N N I N G H E A D ATRHuEnNnSi n g S u Sbihgehatds 117

entrances, but the most convenient is the

northern entrance from Adrianou.

met, while the heads of government met to the

south at the circular Tholos.

STOA OF ATTALOS

CHURCH OF THE HOLY APOSTLES

The Agora Museum, in the reconstructed Stoa of

Attalos, is a good place to start to make sense of
the site. The museum opens later on Monday
(11am) and has a model of the Agora as well
as a collection of finds from the site.
The original stoa was built by King Attalos
II of Pergamum (159138 BC). Two storeys
high with two aisles, it housed expensive
shops and was a popular stamping ground
for wealthy Athenians. People also gathered
here to watch the Panathenaic procession.
It was authentically reconstructed between
1953 and 1956 by the American School of Archaeology. The reconstruction deviates from
the original in only one detail: the faade has
been left in natural Pentelic marble, but it was
originally painted red and blue. The stoa has
a series of 45 columns that are Doric on the
ground floor and Ionic on the upper gallery.

This charming little church, which stands near

the southern entrance, was built in the early
10th century to commemorate St Pauls teaching in the Agora. Between 1954 and 1957 it
was stripped of its 19th-century additions and
restored to its original form. It contains some
fine Byzantine frescoes.

TEMPLE OF HEPHAESTUS

This temple on the western edge of the Agora

was surrounded by foundries and metalwork
shops, and was dedicated to Hephaestus, god
of the forge. It was one of the first buildings
of Pericles rebuilding programme and is the
best-preserved Doric temple in Greece. Built
in 449 BC by Ictinus, one of the architects
of the Parthenon, it has 34 columns and a
frieze on the eastern side depicting nine of
the Twelve Labours of Heracles. In AD 1300
it was converted into the Church of Agios
Georgios. The last service held here was on
13 December 1834 in honour of King Othos
arrival in Athens.
Unlike the Parthenon, the monument
doesnt evoke a sense of wonder, but its impressive enough nonetheless.
To the northeast of the temple are the
foundations of the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one
of the places where Socrates expounded his
philosophy. Further north are the foundations of the Stoa of Basileios and the Stoa Poikile
(Painted Stoa), both currently inaccessible
to the public. The Stoa Poikile was so called
because of its murals, which were painted by
the leading artists of the day and depicted
mythological and historical battles.
To the southeast of the Temple of Hephaestus was the New Bouleuterion (Council House),
where the Senate (originally created by Solon)

Keramikos
The citys cemetery from the 12th century
BC to Roman times was Keramikos (Map p101;
%210 346 3552; Ermou 148, Keramikos; adult/concession
incl museum 2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm
Nov-Mar). It was discovered in 1861 during the

construction of Pireos, the street that leads

to Piraeus. It is one of the most green and
tranquil of Athens ancient sites.
SACRED & DIPYLON GATES

Once inside the site, head for the small knoll

ahead and to the right, where youll find a
plan of the site. A path leads down to the right
from the knoll to the remains of the city wall,
which was built by Themistocles in 479 BC,
and rebuilt by Konon in 394 BC. The wall is
broken by the foundations of two gates. Tiny
signs mark each one.
The first, the Sacred Gate, spanned the Sacred Way and was the one by which pilgrims
from Eleusis entered the city during the annual Eleusian procession. The second, the
Dipylon Gate, to the northeast of the Sacred
Gate, was the citys main entrance and where
SIX FOR THE PRICE OF ONE
The 12 Acropolis admission includes entry
to the main ancient sites: Ancient Agora,
Roman Agora, Keramikos, Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Theatre of Dionysos.
The ticket is valid for four days; otherwise
individual site fees apply, though this is not
enforced. The same opening hours (8am to
7pm April to October, 8am to 5.30pm November to May) apply for all of these sites,
but it pays to double-check as sometimes
winter hours and summer hours can vary.
There is free entrance to the sites on the
first Sunday of the month (except for July
and August).

ATHENS & ATTICA

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116 AT
R UHNENNI NS GH E AS Di g hts R u n n i n g s u b h e a d

the Panathenaic procession began. It was also

the stamping ground of the citys prostitutes,
who gathered there to offer their services to
jaded travellers.
From a platform outside the Dipylon Gate,
Pericles gave his famous speech extolling the
virtues of Athens and honouring those who
died in the first year of the Peloponnesian
Wars stirring many more to battle and
ultimately their deaths.
Between the Sacred and the Dipylon gates
are the foundations of the Pompeion, used
as a dressing room for participants in the
Panathenaic procession.
STREET OF TOMBS

Leading off the Sacred Way to the left as you

head away from the city is the Street of Tombs.
This avenue was reserved for the tombs of
Athens most prominent citizens. The surviving stelae are now in the National Archaeological Museum (p120), and what you see are
replicas. The astonishing array of funerary
monuments, and their bas reliefs, warrant
more than a cursory examination.
Ordinary citizens were buried in the areas
bordering the Street of Tombs. One well-preserved stele shows a little girl with her pet dog.
You will find it by going up the stone steps on
the northern side of the Street of Tombs. The
sites largest stele, that of sisters Demetria and
Pamphile, is on the path running from the
southeast corner of the Street of Tombs.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF
KERAMIKOS

The sites small museum was established by

its benefactor, Gustav Oberlaender, a German-American stocking manufacturer. It
contains stelae and sculptures from the site,
as well as a good collection of vases and
terracotta figurines.

Roman Athens
TOWER OF THE WINDS & ROMAN AGORA

The entrance to the Roman Agora (Map pp1023; %210 324 5220; cnr Pelopida & Eolou; adult/concession
2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar) is
through the well-preserved Gate of Athena
Archegetis, which is flanked by four Doric columns. It was erected sometime during the 1st
century AD and financed by Julius Caesar.
The rest of the Roman Agora appears to
the layperson as little more than a heap of
rubble. To the right of the entrance are the

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foundations of a 1st-century public latrine.

In the southeast area are the foundations of a
propylon and a row of shops.
The well-preserved Tower of the Winds (Map
pp1023) was built in the 1st century BC by
a Syrian astronomer named Andronicus. The
octagonal monument of Pentelic marble is
an ingenious construction that functioned
as a sundial, weather vane, water clock and
compass. Each side represents a point of the
compass, and has a relief of a figure floating
through the air, which depicts the wind associated with that particular point. Beneath each
of the reliefs are the faint markings of sundials.
The weather vane, which disappeared long
ago, was a bronze Triton that revolved on top
of the tower. The Turks allowed dervishes to
use the tower.
HADRIANS ARCH

The Roman emperor Hadrian had a great

affection for Athens. Although he did his
fair share of spiriting its classical artwork to
Rome, he also embellished the city with many
monuments influenced by classical architecture. Grandiose as these monuments are, they
lack the refinement and artistic flair of their
classical predecessors.
Hadrians Arch (Map pp1023) is a lofty monument of Pentelic marble that stands where
busy Leoforos Vasilissis Olgas and Leoforos
Vasilissis Amalias meet. It was erected by
Hadrian in AD 132, probably to commemorate the consecration of the Temple of Olympian Zeus (below). The inscriptions show
that it was also intended as a dividing point
between the ancient city and the Roman city.
The northwest frieze bears the inscription
This is Athens, the Ancient city of Theseus,
while the southeast frieze states This is the
city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus.
TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS

This is the largest temple (Map pp102-3; %210

922 6330; adult/concession 2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct,
8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar) in Greece. The temple was

begun in the 6th century BC by Peisistratos,

but was abandoned for lack of funds. Various other leaders had stabs at completing the
temple, but it was left to Hadrian to complete
the work in AD 131. It took more than 700
years to build.
The temple is impressive for the sheer size
of its 104 Corinthian columns (17m high with
a base diameter of 1.7m), of which 15 remain

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the fallen column was blown down in a gale

in 1852. Hadrian put a colossal statue of Zeus
in the cella and, in typically immodest fashion, placed an equally large one of himself
next to it.
HADRIANS LIBRARY

To the north of the Roman Agora is this vast

2nd-century-AD library (Map pp1023), the
largest structure erected by Hadrian. It included a cloistered courtyard bordered by 100
columns and there was a pool in the centre.
As well as books, the building housed music
and lecture rooms and a theatre. Restoration
works were completed in 2005.
ROMAN BATHS

Excavation work to create a ventilation shaft

for the metro uncovered the well-preserved
ruins of a large Roman bath complex (Map
pp1023). The baths, which extend into the
National Gardens, were established near the
Ilissos river after the Herulian raids in the 3rd
century AD; they were destroyed and repaired
again in the 5th or 6th century.
PANATHENAIC STADIUM

The Panathenaic Stadium (Map p100), which

lies between two pine-covered hills between
the neighbourhoods of Mets and Pangrati,
was originally built in the 4th century BC as
a venue for the Panathenaic athletic contests.
A thousand wild animals are said to have been
slaughtered in the arena at Hadrians inauguration in AD 120. The seats were rebuilt in
Pentelic marble by Herodes Atticus.
After hundreds of years of disuse, the stadium was completely restored in 1895 by
wealthy Greek benefactor Georgios Averof
to host the first modern Olympic Games the
following year. It is a faithful replica of the
Panathenaic Stadium, comprising seats of
Pentelic marble for 70,000 spectators, a running track and a central area for field events.
It made a stunning backdrop to the archery
competition and the marathon finish during
the 2004 Olympics.

Byzantine Athens
Byzantine architecture in Athens is fairly thin
on the ground. By the time of the split in
the Roman Empire, Athens had shrunk to
little more than a provincial town. The most
important Byzantine building is the World
Heritagelisted, 11th-century Moni Dafniou

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(p156) at Dafni, 10km northwest of Athens,

which has been closed since it was damaged
in the 1999 earthquake.
The 12th-century Church of Agios Eleftherios
(Little Metropolis; Map pp102-3; Plateia Mitropoleos, Plaka) is
considered one of the citys finest. It is built
partly of Pentelic marble and decorated with
an external frieze of symbolic beasts in bas
relief. It was originally dedicated to the Panagia Gorgoepikoos (meaning Virgin swift to
answer prayers) and was once the citys cathedral, but now stands in the shadows of the
much larger new cathedral (Map pp1023).
The small 11th-century Church of Kapnikarea (Map pp102-3; Ermou, Monastiraki; h8am-2pm Tue,
Thu & Fri) stands smack in the middle of the
Ermou shopping strip. It was saved from
the bulldozers and restored by Athens University. Its dome is supported by four large
Roman columns.
The 11th-century Church of Agii Theodori (Map
pp104-5; off Plateia Klafthmonos on Stadiou, Syntagma) has
a tiled dome and walls decorated with a pretty
terracotta frieze of animals and plants.
The lovely 11th-century Agios Nikolaos Rangavas (Map pp102-3; Plaka) was part of the palace
of the Rangavas family, who counted among
them Michael I, emperor of Byzantium. The
church bell was the first installed in Athens
after liberation from the Turks (who banned
them), and was the first to ring in 1833 to
announce the freedom of Athens.
The unique 11th-century Church of Sotira
Lykodimou (Map pp1023), now the Russian
Orthodox Cathedral, is the only octagonal Byzantine church and has an imposing dome.
One of the oldest churches in Athens is the
10th-century Church of the Holy Apostles
(p117) in the Ancient Agora. Other churches
worth seeing are the 11th- to 12th-century
Church of Agia Ekaterini (Map pp1023) in
Plaka near the Lysikratous monument, and
the 15th-century Church of Agios Dimitrios
Loumbardiaris (p124) on Filopappou Hill.
The lovely Byzantine monastery, Moni Kaisarianis (p125) is also worth a visit.
None of these sites keeps regular hours, so
its a case of popping in if they are open.

Neoclassical Athens
Athens boasts a large number of fine neoclassical buildings dating from the period after
Independence. Foremost are the celebrated
neoclassical trilogy on Panepistimiou, halfway
between Omonia and Syntagma.

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The centrepiece is the splendid Athens University (Map pp1045), designed by the Danish
architect Christian Hansen and completed
in 1864. It still serves as the universitys administrative headquarters. On its left is the
Athens Academy (Map pp1045), designed by
Hansens brother Theophile and completed
in 1885. The Ionian-style entrance mimics the
eastern entrance to the Erechtheion. Neither
is open to the public.
The trilogy is completed by the National
Library (Map pp104-5; %210 338 2541; www.nlg.gr;
Panepistimiou 32, Syntagma; admission free; h9am-8pm
Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri & Sat). Its main feature is the

corridor leading to the reading room, which is

flanked by a row of Doric columns influenced
by the Temple of Hephaestus (p117) in the
Ancient Agora.

National Archaeological Museum

One of the worlds great museums, the National
Archaeological Museum (Map pp104-5; %210 821 7724;
www.culture.gr; 28 Oktovriou-Patision 44, Athens; adult/concession 7/3; h10am-5pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct,
8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar) houses the most important

finds from Greeces archaeological sites.

The museum, which was damaged in the
1999 earthquake, was totally overhauled and
reopened in 2004. The collection has been
rearranged thematically and is beautifully
presented, with information in English and
Greek. Hundreds of pieces held in storage
are now on display, while galleries that were
closed for many years have reopened. The
final two galleries, with the Egyptian and Stathatos collections, were temporarily closed.
With 10,000 sq metres of exhibition space,
it could take several visits to appreciate the
museums vast holdings, but it is possible to
see the highlights in a half-day.
Ahead of you as you enter the museum
is the Prehistoric collection, showcasing some
of the most important pieces of Mycenaean,
Neolithic and Cycladic art.
The fabulous collection of Mycenaean antiquities (Gallery 4) is the museums tour de
force. The first cabinet you come to holds
the celebrated Mask of Agamemnon, unearthed
at Mycenae by Heinrich Schliemann, along
with key finds from Grave Circle A, including
bronze daggers with intricate representations
of the hunt. The exquisite Vaphio gold cups, with
scenes of men taming wild bulls, are regarded
as among the finest surviving examples of
Mycenaean art. They were found in a tholos

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(Mycenaean tomb shaped like a beehive) at

Vaphio, near Sparta.
The Cycladic collection in Gallery 6 includes
the superb figurines of the 3rd and 2nd century BC that inspired artists such as Picasso.
Backtrack and enter the galleries to the
left of the entrance, which house the oldest
and most significant pieces of the Sculpture
collection. Galleries 7 to 13 exhibit the museums fine examples of Archaic Kouroi dating
from the 7th century BC to 480 BC, including
the colossal 600 BC Sounion Kouros (Room 8),
found at the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion.
Made of Naxian marble, the statue was a votive offering to Poseidon and stood before
his temple.
Gallery 15 is dominated by the 460 BC
bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon, found in the
sea off Evia, which depicts one of the gods
(no-one really knows which one) with his
arms outstretched and holding a thunderbolt
or trident in his right hand.
In Gallery 21 you will see the striking 2ndcentury-BC statue of a horse and young rider,
recovered from a shipwreck off Cape Artemision in Evia. Behind the horse is the lesserknown statue of Aphrodite, showing a demure
nude Aphrodite struggling to hold her draped
gown over her private parts.
From Gallery 21, head left and up the stairs
to the museums other big crowd-puller, the
spectacular Minoan frescoes from Santorini
(Thira). The frescoes the Boxing Children,
the Spring wall painting showing red lilies
and a pair of swallows kissing in mid-air and
the Antelopes were uncovered from the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri (p431), which
was buried by a volcanic eruption in the late
16th century BC.
The Thira Gallery is the most high-tech of
the museums displays, with videos showing
the 1926 volcanic eruption, the Akrotiri excavation and preservation work on the vases
and frescoes.
Also on the 1st floor is the extensive and
superb pottery collection, which traces the
development of pottery from the Bronze
Age through the Protogeometric and Geometric periods, to the emergence of the
famous Attic black-figured pottery of the
6th century and the red-figured pottery
from the late 5th to early 4th century. The
other uniquely Athenian vessels are the Attic
White Lekythoi, the slender vases depicting
scenes at tombs.

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In the centre of Gallery 56 are six Panathenaic amphorae, presented to the winners
of the Panathenaic Games. Each amphorae
contained oil from the sacred olive trees of
Athens and victors might have received up
to 140 of them. They are painted with scenes
from the relevant sport (in this case wrestling)
on one side and an armed Athena Promachos
on the other.
In the centre of Room 50, you can see the
obscure 7th-century clay doll (cabinet 20) from
the Boetian Geometric period that was the
inspiration for the odd-looking Athens 2004
Olympic mascots, Athena and Phivos. The
female figure with movable large legs (one
has six toes) has a bell-shaped body and a
birdlike face.
Heading back to the ground floor, turn
right into Gallery 36 for the Bronze collection.
Some of the galleries on this floor were closed
for 20 years. One of the significant additions
to this collection is the large 2nd-century-BC
statue of the Lady of Kalymnon in Gallery 39.
This larger than life-size figure, wearing a
long draped tunic, was found in bad shape
by a fisherman off the island of Kalymno in
1994. Next to the statue are photos and details
of its restoration.
Many of the smaller bronzes are masterpieces from the leading bronzesmithing
workshops of Ancient Greece. The 200-BC
statue of Athena Varvakeion is the most famous
copy much reduced in size of the statue
of Athena Polias by Pheidias that once stood
in the Parthenon.
The museum is a 10-minute walk from
Viktoria metro station, or catch trolleybus
2, 4, 5, 9 or 11 from outside St Denis Cathedral on Panepistimiou and get off at the
Polytechnio stop.

family house into a museum and presented it

to the Greek nation. The collection includes
Bronze Age finds from Mycenae and Thessaly; two early works by El Greco; ecclesiastical
furniture brought from Asia Minor; pottery,
copper, silver and woodwork from Egypt, Asia
Minor and Mesopotamia; and a stunning collection of Greek regional costumes.
The Benaki Museum Pireos Annexe (Map p101;

Other Museums & Galleries

less collection of Christian art, dating from

the 4th to 15th centuries, which sheds light
on Byzantine and post-Byzantine culture a
part of Greek history that is often ignored in
favour of its ancient past. The collection is
exceptionally presented with themed displays
in a multilevel underground gallery. Housed
in the pretty grounds of the former Villa Ilissia, the museum is a welcome break from the
city hubbub.

With its wealth of history, it is not surprising

that Athens has more than 130 museums,
highlighting the citys history, art, culture
and obsessions.
BENAKI MUSEUM

Greeces finest private museum (Map pp106-7;

%210 367 1000; www.benaki.gr; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias &
Koumbari 1, Kolonaki; adult/concession 6/3, free Thu; h9am5pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat, 9am-midnight Thu, 9am-3pm Sun)

contains the vast collection of Antonis Benakis,

accumulated during 35 years of avid collecting
in Europe and Asia. In 1931 he turned the

%210 345 3111; www.benaki.gr; Pireos 138, cnr Andronikou,

Rouf; h10am-6pm Wed, Thu & Sun, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat)

hosts regular visual arts, cultural and historical exhibitions as well as major international
shows. The impressive former industrial
building has a caf and excellent gift store.
GOULANDRIS MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC &
ANCIENT GREEK ART

This private museum (Map pp106-7; %210 722 8321;

www.cycladic.gr; cnr Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Neofytou Douka,
Kolonaki; adult/concession 5/2; h10am-4pm Mon & Wed-Fri,
10am-3pm Sat) houses a collection of Cycladic art

second in importance only to that displayed

at the National Archaeological Museum (opposite). The museum was custom-built for
the collection, and the finds are beautifully
displayed and well labelled. Although the
exhibits cover all periods from Cycladic to
Roman times, the emphasis is on the Cycladic
era from 3000 BC to 2000 BC. The exhibits
include the marble figurines with folded arms
that inspired many 20th-century artists with
their simplicity and purity of form.
The 19th-century mansion next door is
used for temporary exhibitions.
BYZANTINE & CHRISTIAN MUSEUM

This outstanding museum (Map pp106-7; %210

721 1027; www.culture.gr; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 22; adult/
concession 4/2; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep,
8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; w) presents a price-

KANELLOPOULOS MUSEUM

This excellent museum (Map pp102-3; %210 321

2313; Theorias 12, cnr Panos, Plaka), in an imposing

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ART UNDERGROUND
The Athens metro is an underground network of veritable museums and contemporary art galleries. Construction of the
citys subway turned into Greeces biggest
archaeological dig. Graves, foundations of
ancient structures, wells and thousands of
artefacts were found in the process and
many of these finds are exhibited in metro
stations around Athens, with the most impressive displays at Syntagma, Akropoli and
the recently opened Egaleo station, where a
30m-long section of the 5th-century Sacred
Way and other finds are displayed beneath
a glass walkway.
All stations also incorporate art installations by leading Greek artists, such as
Alekos Fassianos work at Metaxourghio
station, Yiannis Gatis trademark little
men at Larisis, and New Yorkbased artist
Stephen Antonakos neon installation at
Evangelismos.

1884 mansion on the northern slope of the

Acropolis, houses the Kanellopoulos familys
extensive collection, donated to the state in
1976. The collection includes jewellery, clayand-stone vases and figurines, weapons,
Byzantine icons, bronzes and objets dart
dating from every period of Greek history.
It was due to reopen by 2008 after a major
refurbishment.
NATIONAL ART GALLERY

Greeces premier art gallery (Map pp106-7; %210

723 5857; Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou 50; adult/concession
6/5; h9am-3pm Wed-Sat, 6-9pm Mon & Wed, 10am2pm Sun) presents a rich collection of Greek

art spanning four centuries from the postByzantine period. A new wing housing its
permanent collection explores the key art
movements chronologically. The 1st floor
hosts works from the post-Byzantine period,
the gallerys prized El Greco paintings, including The Crucifixion and Symphony of
the Angels, and works from the Ionian period until 1900. On the 2nd floor are works
by the countrys leading 20th-century artists, including Parthenis, Moralis, Maleas
and Lytras. The gallery also has works by
European masters, including paintings by
Picasso, Marquet and Utrillo, and hosts major
international exhibitions.

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The gallerys significant sculpture collection is now housed in Goudi at the National
Glyptoteque (off Map pp106-7; %210 770 9855; Army
Park, Katehaki; adult/concession 6/3; h9am-3pm Mon &
Wed-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun).
NUMISMATIC MUSEUM

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ISLAMIC ART MUSEUM

A rarity outside the Islamic world and an unexpected find in Greece given the countrys
history, this museum (Map p101; %210 325 1311;
www.benaki.gr; Agion Asomaton & Dipylou; adult/concession 5/3, free Thu; h9am-3pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 9am-9pm
Wed) showcases one of the worlds most sig-

An excellent collection of secular and religious

folk art, mainly from the 18th and 19th centuries, is housed in this museum (Map pp102-3; %210

nificant collections of Islamic art, the bulk

of which was assembled by Antonis Benakis
in the 19th century. Opened by the Benaki
Museum in 2004 in two restored neoclassical mansions near Keramikos, the museum
exhibits more than 8000 items covering the
12th to 19th centuries, including weavings,
carvings, prayer carpets, tiles and ceramics. There is a 17th-century reception room
with an inlaid marble floor from a Cairo
mansion on the 3rd floor. A very pleasant
rooftop caf overlooks Keramikos and you
can see part of the Themistoklean wall in the
basement.

322 9031; Kydathineon 17, Plaka; adult/concession 2/1; h9am2pm Tue-Sun). The 1st floor has embroidery, pot-

JEWISH MUSEUM

This magnificent neoclassical mansion is

worth a visit, even if you have little interest in coins. The museum (Map pp104-5; %210
364 3774; Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma; adult/concession
3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) comprises 400,000

coins from ancient Greek, Hellenic, Roman

and Byzantine times. The building was once
the home of the celebrated archaeologist
Heinrich Schliemann.
MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK ART

tery, weaving and puppets. The 2nd floor has

a reconstructed traditional village house with
paintings by the primitive artist Theophilos of
Lesvos (Mytilini). Greek traditional costumes
are displayed on the 3rd and 4th floors.
NATIONAL HISTORICAL MUSEUM

Specialising in memorabilia from the War

of Independence, this museum (Map pp104-5;
%210 323 7617; Stadiou 13, Syntagma; adult/concession
3/1, admission free Sun; h9am-2pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon
in winter) has Byrons helmet and sword. There

is also a series of paintings depicting events

leading up to the war, Byzantine and medieval
exhibits, and a collection of photographs and
royal portraits.
The museum is housed in the old parliament building at Plateia Kolokotroni. Theodoros Deligiannis, who succeeded Trikoupis
as prime minister of Greece, was assassinated
on the steps of the building in 1905.
CITY OF ATHENS MUSEUM

Occupying the palace where King Otho and

his consort Amalia lived for a few years in
the 1830s, this museum (Map pp104-5; %210 323
1397; Paparigopoulou 7, Syntagma; adult/concession 3/2;
h10.30am-6pm Mon, 9am-4pm Wed-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat &
Sun) contains some of the royal couples fur-

niture, costumes and personal mementos, as

well as paintings, prints and models of Athens
in the 19th century.

Housed in a 19th-century mansion, this museum (Map pp102-3; %210 322 5582; Nikis 39, Plaka; adult/
concession 5/2; h9am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sun)

R U N N I N G H E A D ATRHuEnNnSi n g S u Sbihgehatds 123

traces the history of the Jewish community in

Greece back to the 3rd century BC through an
impressive collection of religious and folk art,
and documents. It includes a reconstruction
of a synagogue.
FRISSIRAS MUSEUM

This private art museum (Map pp102-3; %210 323

4678; www.frissirasmuseum.com; Moni Asteriou Tsangari
3, Plaka; adult/concession 6/3; h10am-5pm Wed-Fri,
11am-5pm Sat & Sun) is housed in two beautifully

restored neoclassical mansions in Plaka. It

showcases more than 3000 works of contemporary European painting, focusing mainly
on the human figure, and hosts regular
temporary exhibitions. There is a pleasant
museum caf.
TURKISH BATHS

This beautifully refurbished 17th-century

bathhouse (Map pp102-3; %210 324 4340; Kyrristou
8, Plaka; admission 2; h9am-2.30pm Wed-Mon) is the
only surviving public bathhouse in Athens
and one of the few remnants of Ottoman
times. A helpful free audio tour takes you
back in time to the bathhouse days.

FREE MUSEUMS
Athens has some interesting free museums. The Museum of Greek Popular Instruments (Map
pp102-3; %210 325 4119; Diogenous 1-3, Plaka; h10am-2pm Tue & Thu-Sun, noon-6pm Wed) has displays
and recordings of a wide selection of traditional instruments and has live music in the courtyard
on weeknights in summer.
The most significant collection of Greek inscriptions can be seen at the Epigraphical Museum
(Map pp104-5; %210 821 7637; Tositsa 1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), a veritable library of stone tablets
next to the National Archaeological Museum.
The War Museum (Map pp106-7; %210 725 2975; cnr Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Rizari 2, Athens; h9am2pm Tue-Sun) is a relic of the colonels junta as well as an architectural statement of the times.
All periods from the Mycenaean to the present day are covered, and displays include weapons,
maps, armour and models.
Aspiring thespians can visit the Theatre Museum (Map pp104-5; %210 362 9430; Akadimias 50,
Syntagma; h9am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) to see memorabilia from the 19th and 20th centuries, including
costumes, props and reconstructions of the dressing rooms of Greeces most celebrated 20thcentury actors.
The Centre of Folk Art & Tradition (Map pp102-3; %210 324 3987; Hatzimihali Angelikis 6, Plaka;
h9am-1pm & 5-9pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) has good displays of costumes, embroideries, pottery and musical instruments.
The Museum of the History of Greek Costume (Map pp106-7; %210 362 9513; Dimokritou 7,
Kolonaki; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri) has rotating exhibitions of traditional costumes from different regions of Greece.
The Technopolis (Map p101; %210 3467 322; www.technopolis.gr; Pireos 100, Gazi; h10am-3pm MonFri) also houses the Maria Callas Museum, a small museum dedicated to the revered opera diva.
This innovative cultural centre in the superbly converted Athens gasworks complex also hosts
multimedia exhibitions, concerts and special events.

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Hills of Athens
The Athens basin is surrounded by mountains, bounded to the north by Mt Parnitha,
the northeast by Mt Pendeli, the west by Mt
Egaleo and the east by Mt Ymittos. Downtown
Athens is dominated by the much smaller
hills of Lykavittos (277m) and the Acropolis
(156m), which are a pleasant escape from the
traffic-congested streets.
LYKAVITTOS HILL

The name Lykavittos means hill of wolves

and derives from ancient times when the
hill was surrounded by countryside and its
pine-covered slopes were inhabited by wolves.
Today, the hill (Map pp1067) is no longer
surrounded by countryside nor inhabited by
wolves, but rises out of a sea of concrete to
offer the finest views in Athens. The dreaded
nefos (pollution haze) permitting, there are
panoramic views of the city, the Attic basin,
the surrounding mountains, and the islands of
Salamina and Aegina. A path leads to the summit from the top of Loukianou. Alternatively,
you can take the funicular railway (Map pp106-7;
%210 721 0701; return 5.50; h9am-3am, half-hourly),
referred to as the teleferik, from the top of
Ploutarhou.
There is a caf halfway up the path and
another at the top, as well as a fancy restaurant
(see Orizontes, p139) with spectacular views.
Also on the summit is the little Chapel of Agios
Giorgios (Map pp1067), which is floodlit at
night and looks like a vision from a fairy tale
from the streets below. The open-air Lykavittos Theatre (p130), northeast of the summit,
is used for concerts in summer.
WEST OF THE ACROPOLIS

Filopappou Hill (Map pp1023), also called the

Hill of the Muses, is identifiable to the southwest of the Acropolis by the Monument of
Filopappos (Map p108) at its summit. The
monument was built between 114 and 116
in honour of Julius Antiochus Filopappos,
who was a prominent Roman consul and administrator.
There are small paths all over the hill,
but the paved path to the top starts near the
periptero (kiosk) on Dionysiou Areopagitou.
The pine-clad slopes are a pleasant place for
a stroll, and offer good views of the plain and
mountains of Attica and of the Saronic Gulf,
and also offer some of the best vantage points
for photographing the Acropolis. After 250m,

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the path passes the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris (Map pp1023), which contains some
fine frescoes.
North of here is the rocky Hill of the Pnyx
(Map p101), the meeting place of the Democratic Assembly in the 5th century BC. Among
the great orators who addressed assemblies
here were Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles
and Themistocles. The site offers great views
over Athens.
To the northwest is the Hill of the Nymphs
(Map p101), on which stands the old Athens
observatory built in 1842.
The low Areopagus Hill (Map pp1023) lies
between the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora.
According to mythology, it was here that Ares
was tried by the council of the gods for the
murder of Halirrhothios, son of Poseidon.
The council accepted his defence of justifiable deicide (the act of killing a god) on the
grounds that he was protecting his daughter,
Alcippe, from unwanted advances.
The hill became the place where murder,
treason and corruption trials were heard before the Council of the Areopagus. In AD 51,
St Paul delivered his famous Sermon to an
Unknown God from this hill and gained his
first Athenian convert, Dionysos, who became
patron saint of the city.
There are good views of the Ancient Agora
from the summit. Areopagus Hill can be
climbed by slippery marble steps cut into the
rock, opposite the entrance to the Acropolis,
or the new stairs.

Parks
The area around Syntagma is relatively green,
but Athens is sadly lacking in parks. The best
walks are around the base of the Acropolis and
around Filopappou Hill and the Pnyx.
NATIONAL GARDENS

The National Gardens (Map pp102-3; entrances on

Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias, Syntagma; h7am-dusk) are a delightful, shady ref-

uge during summer. They were formerly the

royal gardens designed by Queen Amalia.
Theres also a large childrens playground, a
duck pond and a lovely shady caf.
ZAPPEIO GARDENS

Laid out in a network of wide walkways

around the grand Zappeio Palace (www.zappeion
.gr), these gardens (Map pp102-3; entrances on Leoforos
Vasilissis Amalias & Leoforos Vasilissis Olgas) were built

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in the 1870s with money donated by the

wealthy Greek-Romanian benefactor Konstantinos Zappas. Until the 1970s, the Zappeio was used mainly as an exhibition hall.
It was used for Council of Europe meetings
during Greeces presidency of the EC and as
a media centre during the Olympics. Theres
a pleasant caf and restaurant next to the
palace, as well as an open-air cinema and
a chic bar.

Other Attractions
PARLIAMENT

Greeces Parliament (Map pp1023 ) was

originally the royal palace designed by the
Bavarian architect Von Gartner and built
between 1836 and 1842. In 1935 it became
the seat of the Greek parliament and it was
from the palace balcony that the syntagma
(constitution) was declared on 3 September 1843. The royal family moved to a
new palace, which became the presidential
palace upon the abolition of the monarchy
in 1974. Only the library is open to the
public.
The war memorial in the forecourt,
known as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier,
is guarded by the citys famous statuesque
evzones, the presidential guards whose uniform of short kilts and pom-pom shoes is
based on the attire worn by the klephts (the
mountain fighters of the War of Independence). The changing of the guard takes place
every hour, while every Sunday at 11am the
evzones perform an extended changing of the
guard ceremony in full ceremonial dress, accompanied by a military band.
ATHENS OLYMPIC STADIUM (OAKA)

Athens newest landmark is the massive

Athens Olympic Complex (Map p155; % 210 683
4777; www.oaka.com.gr; Marousi). The showpiece
stadium where the main action took place
in 2004 is crowned by the striking glass and
steel roof designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. The vast complex includes
numerous stadiums and futuristic design
elements, such as the shimmering Wall of
Nations. You can only visit on an organised
tour (minimum 15 people; per person 3,
additional fees for afternoon or weekend
tours). If you are travelling independently,
you can send a request to join another tour
(fax 210 683 4021; [email protected]). Take
Metro Line 1 (Irini stop).

R U N N I N G H E A D ATRHuEnNnSi n g S u Sbihgehatds 125

MONI KAISARIANIS

Nestled on the slopes of Mt Hymmetos, 5km

from the city, the 11th-century monastery of
Kaisariani (Map p155; %210 723 6619; Mt Hymettos; admission 2; hbuildings 8.30am-2.45pm Tue-Sun, grounds
8.30am-sunset) is a peaceful sanctuary.

Built on the foundations of an ancient

temple, the dome of the church is supported
by four columns from the ancient temple.
The walled complex has a central court surrounded by the kitchen and dining rooms,
the monks cells and the bathhouse. The
domed katholikon (main church) is built in
cruciform style. Most of the well-preserved
frescoes date back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Avoid weekends, when its swarming
with picnickers.
Take bus 224 from Plateia Kaningos (at the
north end of Akadimias), or from the junction of Akadimias and Sina, to the terminus.
From here its about 30 minutes walk to the
monastery or just get a taxi.
ATHENS FIRST CEMETERY

This cemetery (Map p108; Anapafseos, Trivonianou, Mets;

h7.30am-sunset) is the resting place of many
famous Greeks and philhellenes, and while it
may seem a quirky thing to do, it is a fascinating and peaceful place to explore.
Most of the tombstones and mausoleums
are lavish in the extreme. Some are kitsch and
sentimental; others are works of art created by
the foremost 19th-century Greek sculptors,
such as Halepas Sleeping Maiden on the tomb
of a young girl.
Among the cemeterys famous residents
is the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann
(182290), whose mausoleum is decorated
with scenes from the Trojan War.
HELLENIC COSMOS

If ruins and museums arent enough insight

into the ancient world, you can take a virtual
reality trip to Ancient Greece at the futuristic Foundation for the Hellenic World (off Map p100;
%212 254 0000; www.fhw.gr; Pireos 254, Tavros; adult 6-10,
child 3.90-8 depending on session; h9am-9pm Mon-Tue
& Thu-Fri, 9am-9pm Wed, noon-6pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun
Jun-Sep; check for winter hr), about 2km from the

city centre. The new high-tech Tholos domed

virtual reality theatre takes you on an interactive tour of the Ancient Agora (10) while
the Kivotos time machine has 3D floor-to-ceiling
screens featuring ancient Miletus, Olympia
and the world of Greek costumes.

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

124 AT
R UHNENNI NS GH E AS Di g hts R u n n i n g s u b h e a d

Monastiraki

Perikleous

Karageorg
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Monastirakiou

Plateia
Arhaia
Agoras

22

19
Klepsidra
Caf

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Kyr

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28

29
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31

Anafiotika
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14

Acropolis

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of
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30

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32

Hatzimihali
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National
Gardens

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15

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Mitropoleos

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Tower
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200 m
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This walk takes in most of the main sites

in Athens. It involves just over one hours
walking, but can take up to four hours allowing for lingering at various sites and a
few detours.
The walk begins at the fountain at Plateia
Syntagma. The square has been a favourite
place for protests and rallies ever since the
rally that led to the granting of a constitution on 3 September 1843, declared by King
Otho from the balcony of the royal palace.
In 1944 the first round of the civil war began
here after police opened fire on a communist
rally, while in 1954 it was the location of the
first demonstration demanding the enosis
(union) of Cyprus with Greece.
Standing facing the metro station, to
your left is the historic Hotel Grande Bretagne
(1; above), the grandest of Athens hotels.
Built in 1862 as a 60-room mansion for
visiting dignitaries, it was converted into a
hotel in 1872 and became the place where

0
0

WALKING TOUR

sV
as
ilis
sis

WALKING TOUR

Start Syntagma
Finish Syntagma
Duration Three to four hours

The nearest ski fields to Athens are at Mt

Parnassos (p237), three hours northwest,
and Kalavryta (p170) in the Peloponnese.
The season usually lasts from mid-January
to March. Day excursions to the Parnassos
and Kalavryta are organised by Trekking
Hellas (p130) and Klaoudatos (Map p100; %210
825 6840; www.klaoudatos.gr; Patision 52).

WALK FACTS

Le
ofo
ro

Skiing

Nikis

6820; www.athensgolfclub.com; off Konstantinos Karamanli;

9-/18-hole green fees 40/52.50). Clubs and buggies

Filellino

Athens only course is the international standard 18-hole, par 72 Glyfada Golf Club (%210 894

s
Stratono

These beaches can be reached by tram and

then buses travelling south from Glyfada.
There is also good (free) swimming at
Shinias, Marathon and Vravrona in the
north, though these take much longer to
get to and are best reached by car.
You can swim year-round at Limni Vouliagmenis (%210 896 2239; www.limnivouliagmeni.gr; adult/
child under 5yr 7/free; h7am-8pm), a part-saltwater/part-springwater lake whose temperature
never falls below 21C and is known for its
therapeutic mineral qualities. It is set dra-

Golf

Agias Filotheis

.yabanaki.gr; Mon-Fri adult/child 5.50/3.50, Sat & Sun adult/

child 6.30/3.50)

of sites between Vouliagmeni and Cape Sounion. Prices include all diving equipment.

The underpass emerges to the right of

the former royal palace, now the Parliament
building (4; p125). Backtrack to the forecourt
of the Parliament, where you will see the
much-photographed evzones, the presidential
guards. They stand sentinel under the striking Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which
depicts a slain soldier and has inscriptions
with excerpts of Pericles epitaph. Time
your visit to catch the changing of the guard
(5; p125), every hour on the hour.
Duck into the lush National Gardens (6; p124)
to escape the traffic and exit near the wellpreserved ruins of the Roman Baths (7; p119),
uncovered during metro excavation works.
Continue along Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias
to Vassilissis Olgas. To your left is the statue
(8) of Lord Byron being embraced by Hellas,
who seems to be plucking a feather from his
head.
Crossing the road, you will see the striking columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus
(9; p118), while ahead of you teetering on
the edge of the traffic, is Hadrians Arch (10;
p118), the ornate gateway erected to mark
the boundary of Hadrians Athens.

lo
Deda u

Zappeio
Palace

7
Pit
tak
ou

are available for hire. Bookings are required

for weekends and public holidays.

Many tourists forget that Athens is a coastal

city, but there are some decent beaches
within easy distance of the city centre. The
closest are along the coast towards Glyfada
(p99), though the best of these are organised
and charge admission (between 4 and 15
per adult). Theyre usually open between
8am and dusk, later during heatwaves, and
include sun beds, umbrellas and facilities like
changing rooms, childrens playgrounds and
cafs. The fancier ones have watersports and
private cabanas.
There are free beaches at Palio Faliro
(Edem), Kavouri and Glyfada.
The closest beaches to Athens are at
Alimo (Akti Tou Iliou; %210 985 5169; Mon-Fri adult/
child 5/4, Sat & Sun adult/child 7/4) and Agios Kosmas, while the better (and pricier) beaches
are just south of Glyfada, including Asteras
Beach (%210 894 1620; www.balux-Septem; Mon-Fri
6, Sat & Sun 10) and Varkiza (%210 897 2414; www

cnr Zamanou & Pandoras, Glyfada; beginners course from 400,

day/night dives 35/40) organises dives at a variety

Vyronos

Beaches

The Aegean Dive Centre (%210 894 5409; www.adc.gr;

l e o us

Diving

the crowned heads of Europe and eminent

politicians stayed. The Nazis made it their
headquarters during WWII. The hotel was
the scene of an attempt to blow up the British prime minister Winston Churchill on
Christmas Eve 1944.
To the left of the metro entrance you can
see a section of the ancient cemetery and the
Peisistratos aqueduct (2), which was unearthed
during metro excavations.
Take the metro underpass to cross from
the square to the Parliament, stopping en
route at the upper hall of Syntagma metro station (3; p122), showpiece of the citys swish
metro system. Glass cases at the southern
end of the huge marble hall display finds
uncovered during construction, while the
western wall has been preserved like a trench
at an archaeological dig.

M n isik

ACTIVITIES

with a 950-sq-metre hemispherical dome,

offers 3-D virtual trips to the galaxy, as well
as IMAX movies and other high-tech shows
about Ancient Greece. There is simultaneous
narration in English (1). The planetarium is
part of the Eugenides Foundation, a progressive scientific and educational institution.
Enter from Penteli.
Take the metro to Syngrou-Fix, then the
No 550 or B2 bus to the Onassio stop and
take the underpass across the road.

R U N N I N G H AT
E AHDE N S R u nW
n ianl gk Si nugb hTeoaudr 127

Eolou

.eugenfound.edu.gr; Syngrou 387, Palio Faliro; adult 4-8,

concession 5-6; h 5.30-8.30pm Wed-Fri, 10.30am8.30pm Sat & Sun). The 280-seat planetarium,

matically against a huge jutting cliff, just

off the coast, and has a quaint old-world atmosphere thanks to the regular clientele of
elderly citizens dressed in bathing caps and
towelling gowns.

Athens claims to have the worlds largest

and most technologically advanced digital
Planetarium (off Map p100; %210 946 9600; www

www.lonelyplanet.com

Areo

PLANETARIUM

www.lonelyplanet.com

Zappeio
Gardens
Leo

10

Makrygianni
9

fV
as
O lg
a

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

126 AT
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Cross over Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and

head right towards Lysikratous, where you
will make a left turn into Plaka. Ahead on
your right you will see the ruins of a roman
monument in the forecourt of the 11th to
12th century Church of Agia Ekaterini (11).
Continuing ahead you will reach the Choregic Monument of Lysikrates (12). This monument was built in 334 BC to commemorate
a win in a choral festival. The reliefs on the
monument depict the battle between Dionysos and the Tyrrhenian pirates, whom
the god had transformed into dolphins.
It is the earliest known monument using
Corinthian capitals externally. It stands in
what was once part of the Street of Tripods
(13; Modern Tripodon), where winners of
ancient dramatic and choral contests dedicated their tripod trophies to Dionysos.
In the 18th century, the monument was
incorporated into the library of a French
Capuchin convent, in which Lord Byron
stayed in 181011 and wrote Childe Harold.
The convent was destroyed by fire in 1890.
Facing the monument, turn left and then
right into Epimenidou. At the top of the steps,
turn right into Stratonos, which skirts the
Acropolis. Just ahead you will see the Church of
St George of the Rock (14), which marks the entry
to the Anafiotika quarter (15). The picturesque
maze of little whitewashed houses is the legacy
of the stonemasons from the small Cycladic
island of Anafi who were brought in to build
the kings palace after Independence. Its a
peaceful spot, with brightly painted olive-oil
cans brimming with flowers bedecking the
walls of the tiny gardens in summer.
Following the narrow path that winds
around the houses, hand-painted signs pointing to the Acropolis lead you to the tiny Church
of Agios Simeon (16). It looks like a dead end but
persevere and you will emerge at the Acropolis
road. Turn right and then left into Prytaniou,
veering right after 50m into Tholou. The yellow-ochre building at No 5 is the old Athens
university (17), built by the Venetians. The
Turks used it as public offices and it housed
Athens University from 1837 to 1841.
A few metres along, turn right on Klepsidras down some narrow steps that lead to
the little Klepsidra Caf, where you can have
a rest stop or continue down to the ruins of
the Roman Agora (18; p118).
To the right of the Tower of the Winds,
on Kyrristou are the Turkish Baths (19; p123),

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while the Museum of Greek Popular Instruments

(20; p123) is just ahead on Diogenous. As
you turn onto Pelopida you will see the Gate
of the Muslim seminary (21), built in 1721 and
destroyed in a fire in 1911, and the Fethiye
Mosque (22) on the site of the Agora.
Follow the road around the Agora, then
turn right into Peikilis and right again into
Areos. Ahead on your right are the ruins of
Hadrians Library (23; p119). Next to it is the
Museum of Traditional Greek Ceramics (24; %210 324
2066; Areos 1, Monastiraki; adult/concession 3/2; h10am2pm Wed-Mon), housed in the 1759 Mosque of

Tzistarakis. After Independence it lost its

minaret and was used as a prison.
You are now in Monastiraki, the colourful,
chaotic square, teeming with street vendors. To
the left is the metro station and the flea market
(25; p144), and you wont fail to notice the
souvlaki aromas wafting from Mitropoleos.
Turn right at the mosque into Pandrosou.
This relic of the old Turkish bazaar is full
of souvenir shops. The street is named after
King Cecrops daughter, Pandrosos, who was
the first priestess of Athens. Pandrosou leads
to the Athens Cathedral (26). The cathedral has
little architectural merit, which isnt surprising considering that it was constructed from
the masonry of over 50 razed churches and
from the designs of several architects. Next
to it stands the smaller, more appealing and
significant Church of Agios Eleftherios (27; p119).
Just past this church turn right into Agias
Filotheis, which is lined with buildings belonging to the Greek church. The mansion
with the elaborate gold doors is the residence
of the Archbishop of Greece.
Turn left into Flessa, then right to reach
the peculiar junkyard landmark that is Toms
Recycled Garden (28). You might even catch a
glimpse of the eccentric Irishman working on
one of his wacky political artistic statements.
Follow the pedestrian street to busy Kydathineon, and Plateia Filomousou Eterias,
which is packed with cafs and outdoor
tavernas. Turn left and a little way along
you will come to the Church of Metamorfosis
(29), opposite the Museum of Greek Folk Art (30;
p122). If youve got the time, you could also
squeeze in a visit to the nearby Centre of Folk
Art & Tradition (31; p123), on Hatzimihali Angelikis, or take in some European art at the
Frissiras Museum (32; p123).
Alternatively, continue along Kydathineon
and turn left into Nikis, head all the way to

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Ermou, where you can turn left into Athens main shopping drag, or right to return
to Syntagma.

COURSES
If you are serious about learning Greek, several places offer intensive courses for beginners and various levels of proficiency.
Athens Centre (Map p100; %210 701 2268; www
.athenscentre.gr; Arhimidous 48, Mets) Occupying a fine
neoclassical building in a quiet residential suburb, the
centres immersion courses (640) pack 60 hours of classes
into three or four weeks. It also runs cheaper conversation,
grammar and business courses.
Hellenic Cultural Centre (Map pp104-5; %/fax 210
523 8149; www.hcc.edu.gr; Halkokondyli 50, Omonia)
Ideal for people without a lot of time, the centre squeezes
40 hours of class time and 20 hours of excursion time into
two weeks (650). In August, classes are held on an island.
Hellenic-American Union (Map pp106-7; %210 368
0900; www.hau.gr; Massalias 22, Kolonaki) This well-regarded
centre runs courses that last three to 10 weeks (from 400).

For information on language courses on the

islands, see p721.

ATHENS FOR CHILDREN

Athens is short on playgrounds but there are
activities to keep kids amused. Stroll through
the shady National Gardens (p124), where there
is a playground, duck pond and minizoo, or
go to the War Museum (p123), where the kids
can climb into the cockpit of a WWII plane
and other aircraft in the courtyard. There is
also a fully enclosed shady playground in the
Zappeio Gardens (p124).
The Hellenic Childrens Museum (Map pp102-3;
%210 331 2995; Kydathineon 14, Plaka; admission free;
h10am-2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) is more of

a play centre than a museum. It has a games

room and a number of exhibits, such as a
mock-up of a metro tunnel, for children to
explore. Parents must supervise their children
at all times.
The Museum of Childrens Art (Map pp102-3; %210
331 2621; Kodrou 9, Plaka; admission free; h10am-2pm
Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun, closed Aug) has a room set

aside where children can let loose their creative energy. Crayons and paper are supplied.
A 1 fee applies only to children attending
special programmes.
Further afield, the enormous Allou Fun Park
& Kidom (off Map p100; %210 425 6999; Leoforos Kifisou
S & Petrou Rali, Renti; admission free, rides 2-4; h5pm-1am
Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun) is Athens biggest

R U N N I N G H E A D AT
HREuNnSn i n g SCuobuhresaeds 129

amusement park complex. Kidom is aimed at

younger children. Its a pricey but sure way to
keep kids entertained for a while.
The Attica Zoological Park (off Map pp106-7; %210
663 4724; www.atticapark.gr; Yalou, Spata; adult/child 3-12yr
11/9; h9am-sunset) isnt one of the worlds great

zoos but you can see lions, zebras, apes, birds,

reptiles and other animals if you make the
trek out to Spata, near the airport. To get
there take bus 319 from Doukissis Plakentias
metro station.
You can always escape the heat and amuse
the kids with a virtual-reality tour of ancient
Greece at the Foundation for the Hellenic World
(p125) or check out the latest digital technology at the impressive Planetarium (p126).

TOURS

Athens Sightseeing Public Bus Line (%185; www.oasa

.gr; fare 5), bus route 400, covers 20 key locations in Athens, from the Archaeological
Museum to the markets and ancient sites.
Buses run half-hourly between 7.30am and
9pm; tickets can only be purchased on board.
Tickets are valid for 24 hours and can be
used on all public transport, excluding the
airport services.
Four main companies run similar pricey
organised city tours around Athens:
CHAT (Map pp102-3; %210 323 0827; www.chatours.gr;
Xenofontos 9, Syntagma;)
GO Tours (Map p108; %210 921 9555; Athanasiou 20)
Hop In Sightseeing (%210 428 5500; www.hopin
.com) Tour bookings are only taken over the telephone.
Key Tours (Map p108; %210 923 3166/266; www
.keytours.com; Kaliros 4, Makrygianni)

Tours include a half-day sightseeing tour of

Athens (65), usually doing little more than
pointing out all the major sights and stopping
at the Acropolis; and an Athens by Night
tour (78), which includes a taverna dinner
in Plaka with folk dancing.
These companies also run half-day trips
to Ancient Corinth (53) and Cape Sounion
(50); day tours to Delphi (including lunch
120), the Corinth Canal, Mycenae, Nafplio
and Epidavros (similar prices); and rather
overpriced cruises to Aegina, Poros and
Hydra (including lunch 122).
Hotels act as booking agents for at least
one company and often offer substantial
discounts.
Hop In Sightseeing offers a hop-on/hopoff city tour option, which allows you to get

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

128 AT
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off at specific points on a set route as many

times as you like.
Scoutway (Map pp102-3; %210 729 9111; www.scout
way.gr; Ptolemeon 1, Pangrati), run by the Scouts Association of Greece, offers alternative activities
for tourists, from hiking trips and visits to
mines to schooner sailing trips and themed
walks around ancient Athens accompanied
by actors.
Trekking Hellas (Map pp102-3; %210 331 0323; www
.outdoorsgreece.com; Filellinon 7, Plaka) runs activities
ranging from Athens walking tours (40) to
bungee jumping in the Corinth Canal (60).
Historian and archaeologist Andrew Farrington leads Athenian Days (%210 689 3828; www
.atheniandays.co.uk; per hr from 50), private tailormade themed tours around Athens for up
to six people.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Hellenic Festival

The annual Hellenic Festival, really a collection of festivals, is Greeces most important
cultural event, running from late May to October. It features a top line-up of local and
international music, dance and theatre.
The major events in the Athens Festival take
place at the superb Odeon of Herodes Atticus
(p115), one of the worlds most historic venues. Set against a floodlit Acropolis, patrons
sit on cushions on the worn marble seats that
Athenians have been entertained on for centuries. The festival, which celebrated its 50th
year in 2005, has been going from strength to
strength and presents a diverse programme of
international standing, ranging from ancient
theatre and classical music to contemporary
dance and world music. Events are held in
venues around town.
The Hellenic festival incorporates the
Epidavros Festival, which presents ancient
Greek drama, as well as modern theatre,
at the famous Ancient Theatre of Epidavros (p187) in the Peloponnese, about two
hours west of Athens. Performances are held
every Friday and Saturday night during July
and August.
The Musical July festival takes place at the
lovely 3rd-century-BC Little Theatre of Ancient Epidavros (p187), set among the olive
groves and pine trees in the seaside village of
Epidavros. Performances are held on Friday
and Saturday and range from Greek music
to classical offerings. The theatre is a 15minute walk from the port.

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w w waccommodation
Book
. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com

The festival programme should be available from the beginning of February on the
festival website and at the Hellenic Festival box
office (Map pp104-5; %210 327 2000; www.hellenicfesti

tails are normally announced last-minute so

check the local English-language press.

val.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm

Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat). Tickets are not available

A range of cultural events takes place at the

Technopolis (Map p101; %210 346 7322; www.cityof
athens.gr), the funky former Gasworks complex
turned cultural centre, including the six-day
European Jazz Festival at the end of May/early
June and the two-week International Dance Festival in July.
Both events come under the auspices of the
City of Athens (%195; www.cityofathens.gr), which
also organises free concerts and music and
dance performances across the city throughout the summer.
The three-day international Synch Electronic
Music & Digital Arts Festival (%210 628 6287; www
.synch.gr) is held in July at Technopolis in Gazi.
Tickets are available from the Hellenic Festival
box office (Map pp104-5; %210 327 2000; www.hellenicfes

until three weeks before the performance

and sell out quickly. Tickets may also be
bought on the day of the performance at the
theatre box offices, but queues can be very
long. There are half-price student discounts
for most performances on production of an
ISIC card.
Special buses to Epidavros, departing
from bus terminal A, are run by KTEL (%210
512 2516; return 20) on Friday and Saturday, returning after the show.
You can also take a dinner cruise (Little Epidavros adult/concession 55/30, Epidavros incl bus adult/concession 60/35). Coaches leave from Syntagma and

Plateia Klafthmonos around 5pm. The boat

arrives at Epidavros at 7.30pm. Little Epidavros is a short walk from the port, while
the Epidavros theatre is a 15-minute bus
ride away. Supper is served on the return
leg. Book through the festival box office.

Lykavittos Summer Theatre & Concerts

The Hellenic Festival box office also takes
bookings for the summer theatre and concert series held at the Lykavittos Theatre (Map
pp106-7; %210 722 7233). The hill-top theatre
provides a spectacular setting for an eclectic
annual programme.

Rockwave Festival
The annual international Rockwave Festival
(%210 882 0426; www.rockwavefestival.gr) has been
growing in stature and popularity and is now
held at Terra Vibe, a huge parkland venue
on the outskirts of Athens. Rock fans can
expect to see some of the worlds top acts
the 2007 line-up included Robert Plant and
Metallica. Tickets are available from Ticket
House (Map pp104-5; %210 360 8366; Panepistimiou 42).
Terra Vibe is in Malakassa, at the 37th km
on the AthensLamia Hwy. Special buses
are put on by organisers and there is also a
cheap camp site for ticketholders.

August Moon Festival

Every August on the night of the full moon,
musical performances are held at key historic
venues, including the Acropolis, the Roman
Agora and other sites around Greece. De-

Other Festivals & Events

tival.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm

Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat).

Greeces leading artists and international

acts can be seen during the summer at two
stunning venues in former quarries: the Vyronas Festival (%210 760 9340; www.festivalbyrona.gr)
held at the Theatro Vrahon in the suburb of
Vyronas; and the Petras Festival (%210 506 5400;
Petroupoli) in western Athens. Programmes and
tickets for both are available from Metropolis
Music stores (p144).
Popular rock venue Gagarin 205 runs the
Gagarin Open Air Festival (%210 854 7600; www
.gagarin205.gr), a summer music concert series, at the former Olympic baseball venue
at Elliniko.
In September, the annual Athens International Film Festival (%210 606 1413; www.aiff.gr) takes
place at the Apollon & Attikon cinemas (Map pp102-3;
%210 323 6811; Stadiou 19, Syntagma).

SLEEPING
Hotels in Athens received a much-needed
overhaul as a consequence of the Olympics.
Older hotels were totally reconstructed, others
were refurbished, new chic boutique hotels
opened and even the shabbiest places were
given a coat of paint. Though prices have skyrocketed as a result, you can expect a higher
standard of accommodation.
Athens is a noisy city and Athenians keep
late hours, so weve mostly selected hotels
in quiet areas, pedestrian precincts or side
streets. Prices quoted here are for the high

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season, but most places offer considerable discounts, especially in low season and online.
Most of the top city hotels are around Syntagma. Plaka is the most popular place for
travellers to stay and has a choice of accommodation across the price spectrum.
There are also some good pensions and
midrange hotels south of the Acropolis,
around the quiet neighbourhoods of Makrygianni and Koukaki.
Around Monastiraki and Omonia, many
of the areas run-down hotels have been upgraded, with some bold attempts to transform
them into hip boutique hotels, but there is
still a general seediness that detracts from
the area, especially at night. Omonia has a
plethora of largely unattractive accommodation, mostly characterless modern C-class
places or cheap bordellos, where you wont
get a wink of sleep.
The best rooms in Athens fill up quickly in
July and August, so its wise to book ahead to
avoid a fruitless walk in the heat.
If you arrive in the city late at night and
cant find a place to stay, dont sleep out. It is
illegal and could be dangerous.

Budget
HOSTELS

Athens International Youth Hostel (Map pp104-5; %210

523 2540; www.aiyh-victorhugo.com; Victor Hugo 16; dm 10;
a) Under new management, this hostel was

refurbished in 2006. As well as dorms, there

are double and four-bed rooms with air-con.
The same management has new budget rooms
and hostel-style accommodation in Omonias
Athens Easy Hostel (Map pp104-5; %210 524 3211; www
.athenseasyhostel.com; Satovrianidou 26), which was
going to get a much-needed upgrade.
Youth Hostel No 5 (Map p100; %210 751 9530;
www.athens-yhostel.com; Damareos 75, Pangrati; dm 12)

These dorms are very basic and dated, but

its a cheery place in a quiet residential neighbourhood. Owner Yiannis is something of
a philosopher, and visitors are encouraged
to add their jokes and words of wisdom to
the hostel notice boards. Facilities include
coin-operated hot showers (0.50), communal
kitchen, TV room and laundry. Take trolleybus 2 or 11 from Syntagma to the Filolaou
stop on Frinis.
Hostel Aphrodite (Map p100; %210 881 0589; www
.hostelaphrodite.com; Einardou 12, Stathmo Larisis; dm 13-15,
d/tr without bathroom 45/60, d with bathroom 50; ai)

If you are prepared to be less central, this

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well-run hostel is a good cheap option. Its

a 10-minute walk from the Larisis train and
metro stations or five minutes to Viktoria.
It has clean, good-sized four- and eight-bed
dorms, some with en-suite bathrooms, as well
as double rooms with and without private
bathrooms many with balconies. Facilities
include internet access, laundry and a travel
agency. Breakfast costs from 3.50.
Student & Travellers Inn (Map pp102-3; %210

Adams Hotel (Map pp102-3; % 210 322 5381;

[email protected]; Herofontos 6, Plaka; s/d 65/80, f 140150; a) A decent budget option in Plaka, this

324 4808; www.studenttravellersinn.com; Kydathineon 16,

Plaka; dm 15-18, d/tr without bathroom 55/70, s/d/tr with
bathroom 50/60/81; ai) This popular and well-

on pedestrian Eolou has front rooms with balconies overlooking pretty Plateia Agia Irini,
with its flower market and church, and side
views of the Acropolis. The popular bar next
door may make it noisy at night. The rooms
have satellite TV, but the bathrooms are still
basic and the top-floor rooms are small and
quite a hike. There is a communal kitchen.
Hotel Erechthion (Map p101; %210 345 9606; fax

run place in the heart of Plaka has a mixture

of dorms and simple rooms for up to four
people, with or without private bathroom and
air-conditioning. It has a cheery yellow and
blue colour scheme and some rooms have fine
old timber floors. Facilities include a pleasant
shady courtyard with large-screen TV, internet access and a travel service. Breakfast costs
from 3.50 and rooms are heated in winter.
Athens Backpackers (Map p108; %210 922 4044;
www.backpackers.gr; Makri 12, Makrygianni; dm incl breakfast
25; ai) This friendly Australian-run hostel

right near the Acropolis metro station has

six-bed dorms with en-suite bathrooms and
lockers, and rooms for families. No curfew,
a barbecue in the courtyard, full kitchen and
laundry facilities, high-speed internet access,
and a great rooftop bar with cheap drinks
and Acropolis views make it a popular place.
Rates include bedding, but towels cost 2. The
same management has dorms (27) and excellent studio accommodation (doubles 100 to
120) in another building nearby.
HOTELS

Plaka & Syntagma

Johns Place (Map pp102-3; %210 322 9719; Patroou 5;
s/d/tr without bathroom 35/55/75; a) This small,

old-style, family-run place is ideally situated

just west of Syntagma and the timber staircase, old doors and high ceilings give it some
charm. The furniture and bathrooms have
been updated, and each room has a hand
basin. Some have air-conditioning, but bathrooms are all shared.
Adonis Hotel (Map pp102-3; %210 324 9737; fax 210
323 1602; Kodrou 3; s/d incl breakfast 55/89; a) This
comfortable, if bland, pension on a quiet street
represents one of the best deals around. The
rooms are neat and come with TV. There are
great views of the Acropolis from the 4th-floor
rooms, and from the rooftop bar.

place has simple old-fashioned rooms with

TV, as well as larger family rooms.
Monastiraki & Thisio
Tempi Hotel (Map pp102-3; %210 321 3175; www.tempi
hotel.gr; Eolou 29, Monastiraki; d/tr 60/75, without bathroom
s/d 40/54; a) This friendly, family-run place

210 346 2756; Flammarion 8 & Agias Marinis, Thisio; s/d/tr

incl breakfast 50/71/90; a) The pedestrian grand

promenade around Thisio has boosted the

appeal of the areas budget hotels, though surprisingly few have bothered upgrading their
facilities. This hotel is slowly refurbishing its
rooms, many of which have great Acropolis
views. They are clean and all have air-con and
TV. The glass cabinet of kitsch in the foyer sets
the tone for this place.
Koukaki

Marble House Pension (Map p108; %210 923 4058,

210 922 8294; www.marblehouse.gr; Zini 35a, Koukaki; d/tr
without bathroom 44/51, s/d/tr with bathroom 44/50/57;
a) This pension in a quiet cul-de-sac is one

of Athens better budget hotels, though it is a

fair way from the tourist areas. Rooms have
been updated, with new pine beds and linen.
All rooms have a fridge and ceiling fans and
some have air-con (9 extra). Breakfast costs
an extra 5.
Hotel Tony (Map p108; %210 923 0561; www.hotel
tony.gr; Zaharitsa 26; s/d/tr 45/60/75; a) This clean,
well-maintained pension has been upgraded,
with all but one of the rooms having en-suite
bathrooms. Air-con costs 9 extra. All have
fridges. Tony also has roomy, well-equipped
studio apartments nearby, which are similarly
priced and excellent for families or longer
stays.
Omonia & Surrounds
Hotel Exarchion (Map pp104-5; %210 380 0731; www
.exarchion.com; Themistokleous 55, Exarhia; s/d/tr 40/50/60;
ai) Right in the heart of bohemian Ex-

w w waccommodation
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. l o n e l y p l a n eonline
t . c o mat lonelyplanet.com

arhia, this rather bland 1960s high-rise hotel

offers cheap and clean accommodation with
washing and internet facilities. Bathrooms
were being renovated at the time of research.
Theres a rooftop caf-bar from which you can
watch the action below or you can venture out
to explore one of Athens most interesting
neighbourhoods. Its a 10-minute walk from
Omonia station.
CAMPING

There are no camping grounds in central Athens. The EOTs Camping in Greece booklet
lists sites in the Attica region.
Athens Camping (%210 581 4114; www.camping
athens.com.gr; Leoforos Athinon 198, Haidari; camp sites per
adult/tent 7/5; hyear-round) This unattractive

place, 7km west of the city centre on the road

to Corinth, is the nearest camping ground to
Athens. It has reasonable facilities.
Good camp sites can be found at Shinias
Beach (p158), east of Athens, and near Cape
Sounion (p155).

Midrange
PLAKA & SYNTAGMA

Acropolis House Pension (Map pp102-3; %210 322 2344;

[email protected]; Kodrou 6-8, Plaka; d 51-79, s/d/tr incl
breakfast 60/87/113; a) This atmospheric family-

run pension is in a beautifully preserved, 19thcentury house, which retains many original
features and has lovely painted walls. There
are discounts for stays of three days or more.
Some rooms have bathrooms across the
hall.
Niki Hotel (Map pp102-3; %210 322 0913; www
.nikihotel.gr; Nikis 27, Syntagma; s/d/q incl buffet breakfast
80/97/200; a) This small hotel bordering

Plaka has undergone one of the more stylish

makeovers in the area, with a contemporary
design and furnishings. The rooms are well
appointed and there is a two-level suite for
families, with balconies offering Acropolis
views.
Athens Cypria Hotel (Map pp102-3; %210 323 8034;
www.athenscypria.com; Diomias 5, Syntagma; s/d 80/110;
a) Tucked in a side street off Ermou, this

small, friendly hotel is a little characterless,

but it is modern and comfortable, with good
facilities and a very handy location. There are
also family rooms (including breakfast 195)
and discounts for children. There are small
balconies but no great view.
Central Hotel (Map pp102-3; %210 323 4357; www
.centralhotel.gr; Apollonos 21, Plaka; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast

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from 99/121/165; a) This stylish hotel has been

tastefully decorated in light, contemporary

tones. It has comfortable rooms with all the
mod cons and decent bathrooms. There is
a lovely roof terrace with Acropolis views,
which has a small Jacuzzi and sun lounges.
Central is in a handy location between Syntagma and Plaka.
Hotel Achilleas (Map pp102-3; %210 323 3197; www
.achilleashotel.gr; Leka 21, Syntagma; s/d/tr incl breakfast
100/125/145; a) From the sleek lobby to the

rooms, the Achilleas has been tastefully renovated. The rooms are large and airy with TV
and fridge, and those on the top floor open
onto garden balconies. There are large family
rooms (165).
Hotel Adrian (Map pp102-3; %210 322 1553; www
.douros-hotels.com; Adrianou 74, Plaka; s/d/tr incl buffet
breakfast 110/135/150, s/d with view 125/150; a) This

small hotel is conveniently located off Plateia

Arhaia Agoras in the heart of Plaka. Breakfast
is on a lovely shady terrace with Acropolis
views. The well-equipped rooms have been
refurbished, are pleasant enough and have
free tea and coffee. The 3rd floor rooms are
the best, with large balconies overlooking
the square.
Plaka Hotel (Map pp102-3; %210 322 2096; www
.plakahotel.gr; Kapnikareas 7 & Mitropoleos, Monastiraki; s/d/tr
120/145/165; a) Its hard to beat the Acropolis

views from the rooftop garden at this refurbished hotel, which you also enjoy from the
top-floor rooms. Rooms have light timber
furniture and floors, and satellite TV, though
the bathrooms are on the small side. Theres
probably better value elsewhere if you cant
get a room with a view.
MONASTIRAKI & THISIO

Hotel Attalos (Map pp104-5; %210 321 2801; www

.attaloshotel.com; Athinas 29, Psyrri; s/d/tr 72/89/106;
a) Though dcor has never been its strong

point, this nonetheless comfortable place has

an Olympic makeover. Its best feature is the
rooftop bar that offers wonderful views of the
Acropolis by night, and the rooms at the back
with Acropolis views from the balconies. All
rooms have TV.
Hotel Cecil (Map pp104-5; %210 321 7909; www.cecil
.gr; Athinas 39, Monastiraki; s/d incl breakfast 75/104; a)

This charming old hotel has beautiful high,

moulded ceilings, polished timber floors
and an original cage-style lift. The rooms
are tastefully furnished and equipped with
TV, but no fridges. There are two connecting

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rooms with a shared bathroom for families or

friends (145).
Arion Hotel (Map pp104-5; %210 324 0417; www.arion
hotel.gr; Agiou Dimitriou 18, Psyrri; s/d/tr 100/125/145) This
three-star hotel overlooking Agiou Dimitriou
Sq has the standard mod cons and is simply
furnished with marble bathrooms. Its in a
handy location, a short walk to Monastiraki
station and the nightlife of Psyrri.
Magna Grecia (Map pp102-3; %210 324 0314; www

lots of brass and timber and stylish classic

furnishings with a modern edge, along with all
the expected amenities. The rooftop garden,
restaurant and bar have spectacular views and
it is a short walk to the Acropolis and Plaka.

.magnagreciahotel.com; Mitropoleos 54, Monastiraki; s/d incl

breakfast 115/130; ai) This historic build-

of two old Mini Coopers sets the tone for this

funky revamped hotel with graffiti art in the
rooms and free internet. Theres a decent, if
unfortunately named, restaurant. Though its
on busy Athinas, its in a handy location.
Fresh Hotel (Map pp104-5; %210 524 8511; www

ing, on busy Mitropoleos opposite the cathedral, has great Acropolis views from the
front rooms and rooftop terrace. There are
12 individually decorated rooms with painted
murals, named after Greek islands. The rooms
have Cocomat eco-mattresses and furniture,
DVD, internet access and minibar.
MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI

Acropolis View (Map p108; %210 921 7303-5; www

.acropolisview.gr; Webster 10, Makrygianni; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast from 55/80/100; ai) This small,

friendly hotel has one of the quietest settings

around, just south of the Odeon of Herodes
Atticus. There are indeed views of the Acropolis from some of the rooms, although the best
vistas are from the roof terrace. Other rooms
look out towards Filopappou Hill. Rooms are
plainly decorated but are well equipped and
have new bathrooms.
Art Gallery Hotel (Map p108; %210 923 8376; Erehthiou 5, Koukaki; s/d 90/105; a) This small, familyrun, friendly place is full of personal touches
and artwork by an artist from the family who
once had her studio upstairs. Some rooms are
a little small but all have been refurbished,
with new bathrooms. Original furniture from
the 60s has been retained in the communal
areas. There is a balcony with Acropolis views
where you can have a generous breakfast (7).
There are a few cheaper double rooms with
shared bathrooms.
Philippos Hotel (Map p108; %210 922 3611; www
.philipposhotel.com; Mitseon 3, Makrygianni; s/d incl breakfast
107/139; a) This smart, modern, popular hotel

has been spruced up. The rooms are small but

well appointed and there is a small double on
the roof, which has a private terrace.
Hera Hotel (Map p108; %210 923 6682; www.hera
hotel.gr; Falirou 9; s/d incl breakfast 120/135, ste from 200;
a) This elegant boutique hotel was totally

rebuilt but the interior design is in keeping

with the lovely neoclassical faade. Theres

AROUND OMONIA

Baby Grand Hotel (Map pp104-5; %210 325 0900; www

.classicalhotels.com; Athinas 65, Omonia; s/d incl buffet breakfast 110/120; i) The reception desk created out

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individually decorated and recently renovated.

A luxury spa centre opened in 2005.
Semiramis Hotel (off Map pp106-7; %210 628 4400;

smartest hotel was completely refurbished

and extended in 2003 and given a new neoclassical faade. You can have breakfast under
the Acropolis on your balcony in the front
rooms (from 325). The design is classic, the
rooms well appointed and there is an indoor
swimming pool and gym as well as a rooftop
pool with Acropolis views.
Hotel Grande BretagneT0E95 (Map pp102-3; %210 333

generally ordinary and overpriced, particularly at the outdoor restaurants around Plateia
Filomousou on Kydathineon, where waiters
tout tirelessly for trade.
The citys best restaurants are scattered
around the centre and in the suburbs.
Athens dining scene has become increasingly sophisticated. Youll find modern tavernas serving new-style Greek cuisine as well
as anything from fancy French restaurants to
cheap Indian food.
Psyrri is full of restaurants and ouzeries
(mezes-style eateries), though it is getting
touristy and expensive. Some fine and trendy
restaurants have sprouted around the former
Gasworks at Gazi. Most places in these neighbourhoods only open for dinner, and many
places in Psyrri shut in summer.
Monastiraki is great for souvlaki and cheap
eats, while fancier restaurants line Adrianou
along the rail line.
Exarhia has lots of small ouzeries and tavernas to choose from, and prices are tailored
to suit the pockets of the districts student
clientele, while trendy new restaurants are
opening along Benaki. Chic Kolonaki has
some of the citys most expensive restaurants,
though you can find some good-value eateries too.
Overall, eating out in Athens is no longer
cheap, but you can still find decent value
in old-style tavernas. Weve stuck largely
to downtown Athens restaurants and a few
further afield worth the trek. Unless stated
otherwise, all the restaurants listed here are
open daily for lunch and dinner.

0000; www.grandebretagne.gr; Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma;

r/ste from 280/420; pai) If you are wealthy,

Budget

www.semiramisathens.com; Trikoupi 48, Kefalari; d/pool

bungalow/ste incl breakfast from 180/260/350; pas)

This designer hotel with a striking lollipopcoloured faade is the hippest place to stay if you
dont need to be downtown (its 15km northeast
of town). Renowned industrial designer Karim
Rashid has bold interior showcases for the
owners contemporary art collection, while the
amorphous-shaped pool and high-tech gadgets
in the rooms are impressive.
Hilton (Map pp106-7; %210 728 1000; www.athens
.hilton.com; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 46, Ilissia; r/ste from
206/421; pas) The Athens Hilton is a

hotel led the trend for hip hotels in the gritty

Omonia area. Once inside, the seediness gives
way to chic rooms and suites with individual
colour schemes, clever lighting and all the
mod cons. The fantastic rooftop with pool,
bar and restaurant with Acropolis views
couldnt be further from the world below.

vast concrete edifice that looks more like a

1950s housing project than a luxury hotel,
but inside, no expense has been spared. It
has lashings of marble and bronze, enormous
chandeliers and somewhat giddy designer
carpets. The excellent but pricey Milos restaurant is downstairs and there is a lovely
pool.
Electra Palace (Map pp102-3; %210 337 0000; www

Top End

.electrahotels.gr; Navarhou Nikodimou 18, Plaka; d/ste

incl breakfast from 190/560; pais) Plakas

.freshhotel.gr; Sofokleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonia; d/ste incl

buffet breakfast from 150/350; as) This designer

There are some lovely luxury hotels in Athens,

offering the odd discount in low season.
Herodion (Map p108; %210 923 6832; www.herodion
.com; Rovertou Galli 4; s/d incl breakfast 145/182; aiw)

This elegant four-star hotel is geared towards

the well-heeled traveller. The rooms are small
but well appointed, with super-comfortable
beds. There is a lovely atrium restaurant and
laptops with high-speed internet connection
in the foyer.
Periscope (Map pp106-7; %210 729 7200; www.peri

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ing Lykavittos, Periscope is a smart, modern

hotel with industrial dcor and many clever
gadgets and design features, including the
lobby slide show, the sea-level measure on the
stairs, travelling TVs and aerial shots of the
city on the ceilings. The penthouses private
rooftop Jacuzzi has sensational views.
St George Lycabettus Hotel (Map pp106-7; %210

the place to stay in Athens is and always has

been the deluxe Hotel Grande Bretagne on
Plateia Syntagma.
Built in 1862 to accommodate visiting heads
of state, it ranks among the grand hotels of the
world. No other hotel in Athens can boast
such a rich history. Completely renovated in
2002, it still retains an old-world grandeur.
There is a divine spa, and the rooftop restaurant and bar is a treat.

729 0711/19; www.sglycabettus.gr; Kleomenous 2, Kolonaki;

d from 180; pas) Its a bit of a hike up the

EATING

nos 11, Syntagma; mains 5.60-7.90; h1pm-1am, closed

Sun) This low-key noodle caf has decently

hill to this boutique-style hotel at the foot of

Lykavittos Hill, in chic Kolonaki. But you can
look forward to cooling off in the rooftop pool
and enjoying the spectacular view from the
bar (and many of the rooms). The rooms are

Plaka is where most visitors wind up eating, at

least one night. Its atmospheric streets under
the floodlit Acropolis are lined with countless restaurants, tavernas and cafs. With a
few exceptions, however, the food in Plaka is

priced Asian noodle and rice dishes as well

as some soups and salads.
Vasilopoulos (Map pp104-5; Stadiou 19, Syntagma) is
one of the big supermarket chain branches in
central Athens.

scope.gr; Haritos 22, Kolonaki; r 155-195, ste incl breakfast

from 270; a) Right in chic Kolonaki overlook-

SYNTAGMA

Ariston (Map pp102-3; %210 322 7626; Voulis 10; pies

1-1.50; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) If you are after a
snack on the run, you cant go wrong with
traditional tiropites (cheese pies) and their
various permutations. This place has been
around since 1910, serving the best range of
tasty, freshly baked pies with all manner of
fillings.
Noodle Bar (Mappp102-3; %210 331 8585; Apollo-

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PLAKA

MONASTIRAKI & OMONIA

Glykis (Map pp102-3; %210 322 3925; Angelou Geronta 2;

mezedhes 3.50-7) In a quiet corner of Plaka, this
casual mezedhopoleio (mezedhes restaurant)
with a shady courtyard is mostly frequented
by students and locals. It has a tasty selection
of mezedhes, including traditional mayirefta
such as briam (oven-baked vegetables) and
cuttlefish in wine.
Paradosiako (Map pp102-3; %210 321 4121; Voulis
44a; mains 4-10) For great traditional fare at very
fair prices you cant beat this inconspicuous,
no-frills taverna on the periphery of Plaka,
with a few tables on the footpath. Theres a
basic menu but its best to choose from the
daily specials, which include fresh and delicious seafood. Get there early before the
locals arrive.
Vizantino (Map pp102-3; %210 322 7368; Kydathineon
18; specials 5-9.50) This taverna is the best of the
restaurants around Plateia Filomousou Eterias. Vizantinos menu is realistically priced
and its popular with locals year-round. The
daily specials are good value, with dishes
like stuffed tomatoes, pastitsio and its excellent fish soup (with fish served on the side,
6.80).
Platanos (Map pp102-3; %210 321 8734; Diogenous 4;
mayirefta 6.50-8; hclosed Sun) This age-old Plaka
taverna is in a pleasant setting away from the
main tourist drag, with tables outside in the
courtyard under a giant plane tree. It is popular among locals and tourists for its reliable,
delicious home-style fare, such as oven-baked
potatoes with lemon and oregano.

Diporto Agoras (Map pp104-5; %210 321 1463; cnr Theatrou & Sokratous; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug 1-20)

This quirky old taverna is one of the dining

gems of Athens. Theres no signage, only two
doors leading to a rustic cellar where theres no
menu, just a few dishes that havent changed
in years. The house speciality is revythia
(chickpeas), usually followed by grilled fish
and washed down with wine from one of the
giant barrels lining the wall. The often erratic
service is part of the appeal.
Athens central market (Map pp104-5hclosed Sun)
This colourful market has the widest range of
whatever is in season. The fruit and vegetable
market (Map pp1045) is on the western side
of Athinas, and the meat market (Map pp104
5) is opposite, on the eastern side. The meat
market section might sound like a strange
place to go for a meal but the tavernas (such
as the Epiros and Papandreou taverns) inside
it are an Athenian institution, turning out
huge quantities of tasty, traditional fare. The
clientele ranges from hungry market workers,
to elegant couples emerging from nightclubs
at 5am in search of a bowl of hangover-busting
patsas (tripe soup).
The supermarket chain Marinopoulos (Map
pp104-5; Athinas 60, Omonia) has a couple of branches
in the centre of town.
PSYRRI

Taverna tou Psyrri (Map pp104-5; %210 321 4923; Eshylou 12; mains 6-8.50) This cheerful place is a local
favourite, turning out good, traditional tav-

SOUVLAKI HEAVEN
There are several contenders for Athens best souvlaki, the undeniably delicious national snack
the best value meal under 2.
In Monastiraki, the end of Mitropoleos has become Souvlaki Central, with musicians adding
to the areas, at times, festive atmosphere. Thanasis (Map pp102-3; %210 324 4705; Mitropoleos 69,
Monastiraki) is renowned for the kebab-style souvlaki, wrapped in pitta, or served on pitta with
grilled tomato and onions. Directly opposite, Savas (Map pp102-3; %210 324 5048; Mitropoleos 86,
Monastiraki) specialises in gyros (Greek version of dner kebab) and has more Middle Eastern dishes
like pastourmali, a tasty pastrami and cheese pie.
For traditional pork skewers in pitta, theres the hole-in-the-wall Kostas (Map pp102-3; Adrianou
116, Plaka; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri), which continues the tradition of his grandfather and namesake;
while Souvlaki tou Hasapi (Map pp102-3; Apollonos 3; Plaka; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) does a roaring trade,
with tasty skewers or bifteki (meat rissoles) served with crusty bread.
Night owls can find 24-hour souvlaki at Exarhias popular Kavouras (Map pp104-5; %210 383
7981; Themistokleous 64, Exarhia; h24hr), although after much research the author swears by the
souvlaki at Hristos (Map p100; %210 756 2400; Ymittou 129, Pangrati), a busy neighbourhood place
near Youth Hostel No 5.

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erna food at prices well below the Psyrri norm.

Its tucked away off Plateia Iron. Look out
for the colourful murals the drunk leaning
against a lamp post outside and the androgynous women inside.
Telis (Map pp104-5;%210 324 2775; Evripidou 86; pork
chops with chips 8; h8am-2am Mon-Sat) You can
not get more basic than this fluoro-lit, barewalled, paper-tablecloth psistaria (restaurant
serving grilled food). Telis has been slaving
over the flame grill, cooking his famous pork
chops since 1978. Theres nothing else on the
menu just meat and chips, Greek salad and
house wine or beer.
EXARHIA

Food Company (Map pp104-5; %210 380 5004; Emmanuel

63-65; dishes 4.50-6.50; %10am-2am) This Kolonaki
favourite has found a new cheery home in Exarhia. The good-value casual caf-style eatery
serves a range of healthy salads, wholesome
dishes and hot and cold pasta and noodle
dishes. The cheesecake is delicious.
Barba Giannis (Map pp104-5; %210 330 0185;
Emmanuel 94; mains 4.50-7.50) A classic Exarhia
haunt, Barba Giannis is a popular place for
traditional cooking. You can choose from
the trays of mayirefta (ready-cooked meals)
and daily specials at the counter. There are
delicious soups and classic meat dishes such
as beef in red sauce and baked pork in lemon,
washed down with barrel wine by the litre.
Rozalia (Map pp104-5; %210 330 2933; Valtetsiou 58;
mains 4.50-11) This old-style Exarhia favourite taverna on this busy pedestrian strip is a
family-run affair with a standard traditional
menu. The large courtyard garden is popular
in summer, when they have fans spraying
water to keep you cool.
Also recommended is the unassuming Cretan-style kafeneio (coffee house), Meintani (Map
pp104-5; Themistokleous 63; mezedhes 3-4.50 hdinner
only), for excellent-value mezedhes and drinks

in a tiny neighbourhood hang-out with tables

on the sloping pedestrian street in the heart
of Exarhia.
KOLONAKI & PANGRATI

Kotopoula Valsamakis (Map pp106-7; %210 360 6725;

Plateia Kolonakiou 3; chicken & chips 6.50; h8am-11pm,
closed Sun) This busy taverna specialising in

grilled chicken is a Kolonaki institution. Its

right opposite the square look for the rotisseries outside and the diners tucking into
plates piled with chicken and chips.

R U N N I N G H E A D ATRHuEnNnSi n g S uEbahtei na gd 137

Oikeio (Map pp106-7; %210 725 9216; Ploutarhou

15; specials 7-12; h8am-11pm, closed Sun) With
excellent home-style cooking, this modern
taverna lives up to its name (homey). Oikeio
is cosy on the inside and the tables on the
pavement allow you to people-watch without
the normal Kolonaki bill.
There are traditional dishes as well as pastas and salads but try the mayirefta specials
like the excellent stuffed zucchini.
Vyrinis (Map p100; %210 701 2021; Arhimidous 11,
Pangrati; dishes 8-10; hlunch & dinner) Just behind
the old Panathenaic stadium, this popular
and relaxed neighbourhood taverna has had
an impressive face-lift but has maintained its
essence and prices.
At Vyrinis youll find a lovely courtyard
garden, friendly waiters, simple traditional
fare and decent house wine. The beef kokkinisto (type of stew in red sauce) and vegetable
imam are recommended.

Midrange
PLAKA & SYNTAGMA

To Kafeneio (Map pp102-3; %210 324 6916; cnr Tripodon

& Epiharmou 1; mezedhes 3.60-6.60) To Kafeneio is a
cosy little place with stone walls and exposed
timber ceilings.
This place offers an interesting assortment
of mezedhes from different regions of Greece,
including Cretan cheese pies and aubergine
croquettes.
Tzitzikas & Mermingas (Map pp102-3; %210 324
7607; Mitropoleos 12-14, Syntagma; mezedhes 5.50-9.40)

Following the success of its two suburban restaurants, this bright, cheery, modern mezedhopoleio opened in downtown
Athens.
There are walls of shelves lined with
Greek products, and the great range of delicious and creative mezedhes puts a spin on
traditional dishes.
Palia Taverna tou Psara (Map pp102-3; %210
321 8734; Erehtheos 16, Plaka; seafood dishes 10-12.50)

Hidden away from the main hustle and bustle

of Plaka, this fish tavern is a cut above the rest.
At Palia Taverna tou Psara there is a choice of
mezedhes but it is known as the best seafood
tavern in Plaka.
Furin Kazan (Map pp102-3; %210 322 9170; Apollonos
2; sushi 20; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat) Regularly and
reassuringly full of Japanese visitors, Furin
Kazan is one of the best and most affordable
Japanese eateries in town. Its a casual place
with a good selection of rice and noodle dishes

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(6.50 to 8) and tempura, but its the sashimi

and sushi that steal the show.
AKROPOLI & THISIO

Filistron (Map p101; %210 346 7554; Apostolou Pavlou

23, Thisio; mezedhes 4.50-14; hclosed Mon) You may
be hard pressed finding a table for dinner at
this excellent mezedhopoleio, which serves an
interesting range of reasonably priced, tasty
mezedhes in a prized setting a rooftop terrace overlooking the Acropolis. Try the baked
potato with smoked cheese and pepper or
the mastelo, a fried cheese from Chios in a
tomato sauce.
Strofi (Map p108; %210 921 4130; Rovertou Galli 17,
Akropoli; mezedhes 4-13.50; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat) Strofis
greatest attractions are the Acropolis view from
the rooftop terrace, and old-style ambience.
Prices have crept up in recent years and the
traditional taverna fare is still decent. Its best
to share a selection of entres and mains.
To Steki tou Ilia (Map p101; %210 345 8052; Eptahalkou 5; chops per portion/kg 8.50/28; h8pm-late) This
psistaria specialising in tasty grilled lamb
chops has achieved celebrity status. There are
tables outside on the pedestrian strip opposite
the church. For those who dont eat lamb,
there are pork chops and steaks, as well as
dips, chips and salads.
PSYRRI & MONASTIRAKI

Oineas (Map pp104-5; %210 321 5614; Esopou 9, Psyrri;

mezedhes 5-18) This cheery place on a pedestrian
street in Psyrri stands out for the walls of kitsch
Greek ads and retro paraphernalia. There are
some creative dishes on the menu and excellent
generous salads, best shared. Try the katafi
(cheese pie made with angel-hair pastry).
Caf Avyssinia (Map pp102-3; %210 321 7407; Kynetou 7, Monastiraki; mains 8.50-14.50; hlunch & dinner
Tue-Sat, lunch only Sun) Hidden away on the edge

of grungy Plateia Avyssinias in the middle of

the Flea Market, this mezedhopoleio gets top
marks for atmosphere and the food is not far
behind. It specialises in regional dishes and
there is often live music on weekends. The
gavros (marinated small fish) is a favourite
dish.
Kuzina (Map pp102-3; %210 324 0133; Adrianou 9,
Thisio; mains 8.50-16.40) A classy newcomer on
Adrianou, with tables outside next to the Temple of Haphaestus, Kuzina serves creative
Greek cuisine with largely successful results.
The interior design is superb, as is the view
from the terrace bar.

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OMONIA & EXARHIA

Yiantes (Map pp104-5; %210 330 1369; Valtetsiou 44,

Exarhia; mains 8.80-15.50) This modern taverna
set in a lovely garden courtyard is next to
an open-air cinema. It is considered pricey
for Exarhia, superb and made with largely
organic produce. Try the goat cooked in a
clay pot.
Arheon Gefsis (Map pp104-5; %210 523 9661; Kodratou
22, Metaxourghio; mains 10-20; hTues-Sat) This gimmicky but fun place turns the clock back 2500
years to ancient Greece. The waiters dress in
flowing robes and there are no glasses the
ancients used earthenware cups and spoons
instead of forks. The menu derives from ancient times; roast meats and fish dominate,
served with pures of peas or chickpeas and
vegetables.
GAZI & ROUF

Kanella (Map p101; %210 347 6320; Konstantinoupoleos

70, Gazi; dishes 5.60-9.50; hnoon-late) Homemade
village-style bread, retro mismatched crockery
and brown-paper tablecloths set the tone for
this trendy taverna opposite the train line.
There are daily one-pot and oven-baked specials and grills, some done with a modern
twist, and an excellent zucchini and avocado
salad.
Skoufias (Map p101; %210 341 2252; Vasiliou Megalou 50, Rouf; mains 7-10; h9pm-late) This gem of a
taverna at the tail end of Gazi is a little off the
beaten track but is worth seeking out. There
are tables outside opposite the church. The
menu has Cretan influences and an eclectic
selection of regional Greek cuisine, including many dishes you are unlikely to find in
any tourist joint. Meat eaters will love the
tender kotsi (pork shank; 15), which is best
shared.
oSardelles (Map p101; %210 347 8050;
Persefonis 15, Gazi; fish dishes 9.50-15) As the name
(Sardines) suggests and the novel fishmonger
paper tablecloths confirm, this modern fish
taverna specialises in seafood mezedhes. Its
a friendly place with tables outside, opposite
the illuminated gasworks, excellent service
and nice touches such as the souvenir little
pots of basil. Try the grilled sardines and taramasalata.
Mamacas (Map p101; %210 346 4984; Persefonis
41, Gazi; grills 13.40-15.40; h8pm-late) This Gazi
trailblazer was one of the citys first modern
tavernas, with its Greek island-meets-grunge
look and upmarket (and consequently more

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expensive) takes on the classics. There are

trays of mayirefta inside and a range of grills
and appetisers. It has expanded across the
road and added a trendy bar.

Top End
There are plenty of upmarket, blow-thebudget dining options in Athens. Reservations are essential.
Plous Podilatou (Map p153; %210 413 7910; www
.plous-podilatou.gr; Akti Koumoundourou 42, Piraeus;
mains 12-20) Dining by the Mikrolimano har-

bour is a delight, and the food at this slick

restaurant will not disappoint either. The
year-round sister restaurant of pioneering
Nuevo-Greek Kitrino Podilato has a Mediterranean menu with an emphasis on fresh
fish and seafood.
Varoulko (Map p101; %210 522 8400; Pireos 80, Gazi;
mains 20-30; hdinner Mon-Sat) For a magical Greek
dining experience, you cant beat the winning
combination of Acropolis views and delicious
seafood by celebrated Greek chef Lefteris Lazarou. He moved to these slick premises from
Piraeus, where he earned his Michelin rating the only Greek chef with the honour.
The restaurant has a superb rooftop terrace.
Lazarou specialises in fish and seafood creations, though there are also meat dishes on the
menu. The service is faultless and the wine list
most agreeable.
Orizontes (Map pp106-7; %210 722 7065; Lykavittos
Hill; dishes 23-38) For a special night out, you can
take the cable car up to the peak of Lykavittos
and watch the sun set over Athens. The menu
at this upmarket restaurant is Mediterranean/
international and the food and service are
excellent, as is the wine list.

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H ERNu Sn n i n gDS ur ibnhkei na gd 139

Papadakis (Map pp106-7; %210 360 8621; Fokylidou

15; mains 16-50; hclosed Sun) Up in the foothills
of Lykavittos, this understatedly chic restaurant is an offshoot of the owners successful restaurant on Paros. Seafood is the
speciality, with creative dishes such as the
stewed octopus with honey and sweet wine,
the delicious salatouri (fish salad) with small
fish, and sea salad (type of green seaweed/sea
asparagus).
Spondi (Map p100; %210 752 0658; Pironos 5, Pangrati;
mains 37-55; h8pm-late) This superb restaurant
has been consistently voted Athens best and
the accolades are totally deserved. Spondi offers Mediterranean haute cuisine, with heavy
French influences, in a relaxed, classy setting.
There is a lovely garden terrace draped in
bougainvillea in summer. This is definitely a
special-occasion place. There is a range of set
dinner and wine menus.

DRINKING
Cafs

Athens seems to have more cafs per capita

than virtually any other city and most of the
time they are packed with Athenians sipping
the ubiquitous frapp, prompting many a
visitor to wonder if anyone ever works in this
city. More recently, the burning question is
why they have Europes most expensive coffee (between 3 and 5). One unconvincing
justification is that you actually hire the chair,
not just pay for coffee, as people sit on a coffee
for hours.
In chic Kolonaki, Da Capo (Map pp106-7; Tsakalof
1, Kolonaki) has excellent coffee, but it is also a
prime people-watching spot. Its self-serve if
you can find a table.

GAY & LESBIAN ATHENS

Athens has a relatively low-key gay and lesbian scene, though it is gaining prominence. A new
breed of gay and gay-friendly clubs has opened around town, predominantly around Gazi and
Psyrri. The more established gay bars and clubs are located around Makrygianni, including the
veteran Granazi (Map p108; %210 924 4185; Lembesi 20, Makrygianni) and the busy three-level Lamda
Club (Map p108; %210 942 4202; Lembesi 15, Makrygianni), on the corner of Syngrou.
The best place to start the night in Gazi is Blue Train (Map p101; %210 346 0677; www.bluetrain
.gr; Konstantinoupoleos) along the railway line, which has a club upstairs. Sodade (Map p101; %210
346 8657; www.sodade.gr; Triptolemou 10, Gazi) attracts a young clubbing crowd. Alekos Island (Map
pp104-5; Sarri 41, Psyrri) attracts a more sedate crowd. Limanakia, below the rocky coves of Varkiza,
is a popular gay beach. Take the tram or A2/E2 express bus to Glyfada, then take 115 or 116
to the Limanakia B stop.
Check out www.athensinfoguide.com/gay.htm or the limited English information at www.gay
.gr, or look for a copy of the Greek Gay Guide booklet at periptera (street kiosks) around town.

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Another caf-thick area to head to includes

Adrianou, along the Ancient Agora, where
youll discover students and young people
filling the shady tables at Dioskouri (Adrianou
39). Further along the pedestrian promenade
along Apostolou Pavous, youll get great
Acropolis views from Athinaion Politeia (Map
p101; Akamandos 1).

Bars
In Athens the line between caf and bar is
often blurred, as you can drink just about
anywhere and any time; some bars are also
restaurants that become clubs late at night.
There are very few pubs and the few beer
houses are normally expensive.
As every neighbourhood has its fair share
of bars, Athens offers endless bar-hopping
opportunities. It is best to head to one of the
citys bar hot spots and explore the field until
you find the bar of your liking.
In Gazi, you will find people spilling out
into the street from the bars, including the
trailblazer Gazaki (Map p101 Triptolemou 31), which
has a great rooftop bar. Or you can get some
fresh air on the terrace of the rock bar 45 Moires
(Map p101; Iakou 18 & Voutadon), overlooking the old
gasworks chimney stacks, or join the cool
crowd at Hoxton (Map p101; Voutadon 42).
Psyrri has many lively bars. You could try
the mainstream Fidelio (Map pp104-5; Ogygou 2),
which has a retractable roof, or head to the
cool Soul (Map pp104-5; Evripidou 65), which has a
dance club upstairs.
The latest trend is the funky bars popping
up in obscure alleys and formerly deserted
backstreets of downtown Athens. A spate
of new places have opened in the same lane
where people were spilling out of Kinky (Map
pp104-5; Avramiotou 6-8). Bartessera (Map pp104-5;
Kolokotroni 25) is at the end of a narrow arcade,
while another safe bet downtown is Magaze
(Map pp104-5; Eolou 33), which has bonus Acropolis views.
In Kolonaki, the two main drinking haunts
are the strip of bars at the top end of Skoufa,
where Rosebud (Map pp106-7; Skoufa & Omirou 60) is a
good start, or you can join the crowds squeezing into the tiny bars on Haritos, such as City
(Map pp106-7; Haritos 43).

Exarhia is a good bet for lively bars with

marginally cheaper drinks. Wunderbar (Map
pp104-5; Themistokleous 80), on Exarhia Sq, is a decent place to start, while a new cheap bar precinct is emerging on nearby Mesolongiou.

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In Thisio, the multizoned Stavlos (Map p101;

Iraklidon 10) is a veteran of the string of cafs and
bars along Iraklidons pedestrian precinct.
It plays mainly alternative music inside and
more mellow sounds in the garden.
You wont find any happening bars in
Plaka, but Brettos (Map pp102-3; Kydathineon 41, Plaka)
is a delightful old bar with a stunning wall of
colourful bottles and huge barrels lining one
wall. You can sample shots of Brettos home
brand of ouzo, brandy and other spirits as well
as the family wine.

ENTERTAINMENT
The best source of entertainment information
is the weekly Athinorama (1.50), but youll
need to be able to read some Greek to make
much sense of it.
English-language listings appear daily in
the Kathimerini supplement in the International Herald Tribune, while the Athens News
has an entertainment guide.

Cinemas
Athenians are avid cinema-goers. Most cinemas show recent releases in English (they
dont dub them) but arthouse foreign films
have Greek subtitles. In summer, Athenians
prefer outdoor cinemas (see opposite). Admission costs around 7.
The following cinemas are in central
Athens:
Apollon & Attikon (Map pp104-5; %210 323 6811;
Stadiou 19, Syntagma)
Astor (Map pp104-5; %210 323 1297; Stadiou 28,
Syntagma)
Asty (Map pp104-5; %210 322 1925; Kora 4, Syntagma)
Ideal (Map pp104-5; %210 382 6720; Panepistimiou 46)

Classical Music & Opera

In summer the main cultural activity takes
place at the historic Odeon of Herodes Atticus
and other venues under the auspices of the
Hellenic Festival (p130).
Megaron (Athens Concert Hall; Map pp106-7; %210 728
2333; www.megaron.gr; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Kokkali 1,
Ilissia; hbox office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) The

citys state-of-the-art concert hall presents a

rich winter programme of operas and concerts
featuring world-class international and Greek
performers.
The Greek National Opera (Ethniki Lyriki Skini;
%210 360 0180; www.nationalopera.gr) season runs
from November to June. Performances are
usually held at the Olympia Theatre (Map pp104-5;

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h eeandt 141

MOONLIGHT CINEMA
One of the delights of warm summer nights in Athens is the enduring tradition of open-air cinema,
where you can watch the latest Hollywood or arthouse flick under the moonlight. Many original
outdoor cinemas are still operating in gardens and on rooftops around Athens, with refurbished
facilities and modern sound systems.
The most historic outdoor cinema is the refurbished Aigli (Map pp102-3; %210 336 9369) in the
verdant Zappeio Gardens, where you can watch a movie in style with a glass of wine. Try to nab
a seat with Acropolis views (seats on the right) on the rooftop of Plakas Cine Paris (Map pp102-3;
%210 322 0721; Kydathineon 22, Plaka) or meander around the foothills of the Acropolis to Thission

(Map p101; %210 342 0864; Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thisio).

%210 361 2461; Akadimias 59, Exarhia) or the Odeon

of Herodes Atticus in summer.

Greek Folk Dancing

community, who come here to play darts

and sip pints of Guinness or Murphys stout.
Theres live music Wednesday to Saturday
from 11.30pm. Beers are expensive.

Dora Stratou Dance Theatre Map p101; %210 921

4650; www.grdance.org; Filopappou Hill; adult/concession
15/10; hperformances 9.30pm Tue-Sat, 8.15pm Sun MaySep) Every summer the Dora Stratou company

performs its repertoire of folk dances from

all over Greece at its own open-air theatre on
the western side of Filopappou Hill. Formed
to preserve the countrys folk culture, it has
gained an international reputation for authenticity and professionalism. It also runs
folk-dancing workshops through the summer months.
The theatre is signposted from the western
end of Dionysiou Areopagitou. Take trolleybus 22 from Syntagma and get off at Agios
Ioannis.

Live Music
ROCK

Athens has a healthy rock music scene and

is on most European touring schedules. In
summer check Rockwave and other festival
schedules (p131), as you may be able to see
your favourite band perform in open-air theatres around town.
Gagarin 205 Club (Map p100; Liosion 205) The
Gagarin 205 Club is primarily a rock venue,
with gigs on Friday and Saturday nights featuring leading rock and underground music
bands. Tickets are available from Ticket
House (p130).
AN Club (Map pp104-5; %210 330 5056; Solomou 13-15,
Exarhia) The small AN Club hosts lesser-known
international bands, as well as some interesting local bands.
Mikes Irish Bar (Map pp106-7; %210 777 6797; www
.mikesirishbar.gr; Sinopis 6, Ambelokipi; h8pm-4am) A
longtime favourite of the citys expatriate

JAZZ & WORLD MUSIC

All the places listed here have a cover charge

depending on the performances. Note that
they are normally closed during July and
August.
Half Note Jazz Club (Map p108; %210 921 3310; Trivonianou 17, Mets) The stylish Half Note, opposite
the Athens cemetery, is the citys principal and
most serious jazz venue. It hosts an interesting
array of international names.
Alavastro Caf (Map p100; %210 756 0102; Damareos
78, Pangrati) The Alavastro features an eclectic
mix of modern jazz, ethnic and quality Greek
music in a casual and intimate venue, with
regular appearances by talented local Armenian Haig Hazdjian.
Small Music Theatre (Map p108M03E6; %210 924 5644;
Vekou 33, Koukaki) This small venue hosts an interesting assortment of bands, often jazz and
fusion.
Palenque (Map pp106-7M03A9; %210 775 2360; www.palenque
.gr; Farandaton 41, Ambelokipi; h9.30pm-late) A slice
of Havana in Athens, Palenque presents
regular live music, with artists from around
the world, salsa parties and flamenco shows.
You can take free tango lessons early in the
evening.

Greek Music
REMBETIKA CLUBS

Athens has a good number of clubs playing

rembetika (the Greek blues) but most close
down from May to September. Most play a
combination of rembetika and laka (urban
popular music). Performances start at around
11.30pm; most places do not have a cover
charge but drinks are expensive.

ATHENS & ATTICA

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140 AT
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Rembetiki Stoa Athanaton (Map pp104-5; %210

321 4362; Sofokleous 19, Syntagma; h3-6pm & midnight6am Mon-Sat Oct-May) The almost legendary Stoa
Athanaton occupies a hall above the central
meat market. It is a popular venue where you
can hear classic rembetika and laka from a
respected band of musicians from midafternoon. Access is by a lift in the arcade.
Perivoli Tou Ouranou (Map pp102-3; %210 323 5517;
Lysikratous 19, Plaka; h9pm-late Thu-Sun, closed Jul-Aug)

A favourite Plaka music haunt in a rustic

old-style venue where you can have dinner
and listen to authentic laka and rembetika
by leading exponents.
Mousikes Skies (Map p100; %210 756 1465; Athanasias 4, Pangrati; h8pm-late, closed Aug) This cosy
music venue is run by the charming singer
Katerina and her bouzouki-playing husband,
who lead a talented ensemble of young musicians. You will hear a range of rembetika and
laka played by people who clearly love what
they do. You can also enjoy mezedhes and an
outdoor courtyard in summer.
Kavouras (Map pp104-5; %210 381 0202; Themistokleous 64, Exarhia; h11pm-late, closed Jul-Aug) Above
Exarhias popular souvlaki joint, this lively
club usually has a decent line-up of musicians
playing rembetika and laka until dawn.
You can also hear rembetika in summer on
a lovely restaurant terrace at Stoa Pilkilis (Map
pp102-3; %210 321 0431; Ag Fililpou 14, Thisio), though
the music outshines the food.
TRADITIONAL MUSIC TAVERNAS

Mostrou (Map pp102-3; %210 322 5558; Mnisikleous 22,

cnr Lyssiou, Plaka; h9pm-late Sun-Thu, 10.30pm-late Fri &
Sat) A classic Plaka taverna, popular for its live

music (Thursday to Sunday). It has a full-sized

stage and dance floor and gets very lively. A
good place for traditional music and dancing
if you cant face a nightclub or rembetika club.
In summer, theres more-sedate live music
on the terrace.
Palea Plakiotiki Taverna Stamatopoulos (Map
pp102-3; %210 322 8722; Lyssiou 26, Plaka; h7pm-2am
Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun) Stamatopoulos is some-

thing of a Plaka institution, with reasonable

food and live music nightly. Its popular with
locals and can get extremely busy later in the
evening, so youll need to get in early to be
assured of a table.

Nightclubs
Athens is known for its nightlife and has
clubs to suit all musical tastes. Admission

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to some clubs ranges from 10 Monday

to Thursday to 15 on Friday and Saturday nights. The price usually includes one
drink. Expect to pay about 5 for a beer and
7 to 8 for spirits. Clubs get busy around
midnight. Most of the top clubs close in
summer or move to outdoor venues by
the beach.
Envy (Map pp102-3; %210 331 7801; Agias Eleousis
& Kakourgodikiou, Psyrri; h Wed-Sat) The name
changes at this popular club, but the venue
seems to be fixed. It plays the latest dance
music in Psyrri during winter and in summer moves the partying to the ever-changing
beachside venues.
Kalua (Map pp104-5; %210 360 8304; Amerikis 6, Syntagma) This established downtown club plays
mainstream music and the odd Greek disco
hit and usually rocks till dawn. Dont bother
getting there before midnight.
Lava Bore (Map pp102-3; %210 324 5335; Filellinon
25, Plaka; h10pm-5am) The central Lava Bore
is by no means one of the citys in clubs,
but it stays open all year, and caters largely
to tourists. The formula remains much the
same: a mixture of mainstream rock and
dance music and (relatively) cheap drinks.
Its far more casual that most Athenian
clubs.

Summer Clubs
There are some great open-air city venues, but in summer the citys nightlife
also moves to flashy clubs on the seafront.
Many clubs are on the tram route, which
runs 24 hours on weekends. Admission at
most places is the same as the clubs (left).
Dress up if you want to ensure you get in
the door.
Akrotiri (%210 985 9147; Vasileos Georgiou B 5, Agios
Kosmas; admission 10; h10pm-5am) This popular
beach club is massive, with a capacity for
3000, and bars and lounges over different
levels. It hosts great party nights with top
resident and visiting DJs.
Balux (%210 894 1620; Leoforos Poseidonos 58, Glyfada; admission 15; h10pm-late) This glamorous
club right on the beach has to be seen to be
believed. There is a huge pool surrounded
by lounges and four-poster beds with flowing nets, and a top line-up of local and
guest DJs.
Vitrine (Map p108; %210 924 2444; Markou Mousourou 1, Mets; admission Fri-Sat 15; h10pm-late) The
name of this venue may keep changing but

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the superb Acropolis and city views from the

top never do.
On the Road (Map p108; %210 347 8716; Ardittou
1, Zappeio; admission Thu-Sat 12; h10pm-late, closed
Mon) A classic summer haunt literally in

R U N N I N G H E A D AT H ERNuSn n in gSShuobphpei na gd 143

Basketball receives little pre-match publicity, so youll need to ask a local or check
the website of the Hellenic Basketball Association
(www.esake.gr).

the middle of the road where you might

get a dance.
Lallabai Garden (Map pp102-3; %210 336 9340; Zappeio; admission 12; h10pm-late) Right in the middle of the Zappeio Gardens, this place oozes
cool in every sense. The setting is superb,
the music relatively mainstream and theres
pricey finger food.
Other beach bars worth seeking out are
Club 22 in Faliro and if you can make the trek,
the dreamy Island, past Vouliagmeni.

ATHLETICS

Sport

Theatre

The Athens 2004 Olympics left a legacy of

world-class sports stadiums, and Athens has
begun attracting some major international
and European sporting and athletic events.
The most popular local sports are soccer and
basketball. Sports fans should contact local
clubs or sporting bodies directly for match
information or check the English-language
press or www.sportingreece.com.
The Greek Secretariat for Sport (www.sport.gov
.gr) has information on sports organisations
and stadiums.

Athens has more theatres than any city in

Europe but, as youd expect, most performances are in Greek. Theatre buffs may enjoy a
performance of an old favourite if they know
the play well enough. There is the occasional
performance in English. The National Theatre

SOCCER

Greeces top teams are Athens-based Panathinaikos, AEK and Piraeus-based Olympiakos, all three of which are in the Europeans
Champions league. Olympiakos has dominated on the domestic front; its 200607
Greek championship win was its 10th in the
last 11 seasons. Panathinakos, however, has
enjoyed greater success on the European
stage.
Generally, tickets to major games can
be bought on the day at the venue. Big
games take place at the Olympic Stadium
in Maroussi and the Karaiskaki stadium
in Piraeus, the countrys best soccer stadium. Information on Greek soccer and
fixtures can be found on club websites or
www.greeksoccer.com.
BASKETBALL

The biggest basketball games in Athens take place at the Stadium of Peace and
Friendship (%210 489 3000; Ethnarhou Makariou) in
Palio Faliro.

The annual Athens Marathon is held on the

first Sunday in November and finishes at the
historic marble Panathenaic Stadium (p119).
More than 3000 runners from around the
world tackle the 42km event, following the
historic route run by Pheidippides in 490
BC from the battlefield at Marathon to Athens to deliver the news of victory against the
Persians (before collapsing and dying from
exhaustion).

(Map pp104-5; %210 522 3243; Agiou Konstantinou 22-24,

Omonia) is one of the citys finest neoclassical

buildings.

SHOPPING
Athens main central shopping street is
Ermou, the pedestrian strip that runs from
Syntagma to Monastiraki. Most mainstream
clothing and footwear stores can be found
along Ermou, which must take the prize
for the number of shoe shops per square
kilometre.
Top-brand international designers and jewellers are located around Syntagma and the
Citylink complex, all the way up pedestrian
Voukourestiou, which leads to Kolonaki the
place for designer boutiques.
Plaka and Monastiraki are where most
tourists shop for their souvenirs. There
are excellent gift shops at the Benaki Museum (p121) and the Goulandris Museum
of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art (p121).
Jewellery stores are rife in Plaka and around
Mitropoleos, though most of the more interesting ones are hidden away in the backstreets.
The big department stores are found
on Stadiou, stretching from Syntagma to
Omonia.
Kifisia and Glyfada also have excellent
high-end shopping opportunities.

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

142 AT
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Flea Markets
Athens traditional Monastiraki Flea Market
(Map pp1023) has a festive atmosphere,
with the nearby cafs and restaurants brimming on weekends. The permanent antique,
furniture and collectables stores have plenty
to sift through and are open all week, while
on Sunday the streets around the station
and Adrianou are lined with vendors selling mostly jewellery and handicrafts.
The big Sunday Flea Market (Map p101),
however, now takes place at the end of
Ermou, towards Gazi, where traders peddle their stuff from the crack of dawn and
you can find some bargains, interesting collectables and kitsch delights among the junk.
This is the place to test your haggling skills.
It winds up around 2pm.

Speciality Foods
You can find a delectable array of food at the
colourful Central Market (p136).
Mesogaia (Map pp102-3; %210 322 9146; cnr Nikis
& Kydathineon, Plaka) This small shop boasts a
wonderful array of the finest produce from
around the country, including delicious
cheeses, herbs, honey, jams, olive oil and
wine.
To Pantopoleion (Map pp104-5; %210 323 4612; Sofokleous 1, cnr Aristidou, Omonia) This expansive store
sells traditional food products from all over
Greece, from Santorini capers to boutique
olive oils and Cretan rusks. There are jars
of sweets and goodies for edible souvenirs,
a large range of Greek wines and spirits,
and a fresh deli if you can wait until you
get home.

Traditional Handicrafts
Amorgos (Map pp102-3; %210 324 3836; Kodrou 3,
Plaka; h11am-3pm & 6-8pm Mon-Fri) This charming store is crammed with Greek folk art,
trinkets, ceramics, embroideries and woodcarved furniture made by the owner, while
his wife runs the store.
Centre of Hellenic Tradition (Map pp102-3; %210
321 3023; Pandrosou 36, Plaka; h10am-7.30pm) Upstairs from the arcade are great examples
of traditional ceramics, sculptures and
handicrafts from around Greece. There is
also a great ouzerie and a gallery on the
1st floor.
Melissinos Art (Map pp102-3; %210 321 9247; www
.melissinos-art.com; Agias Theklas 2, Psyrri; h10am-8pm
Mon-Sat 10am-6pm Sun) Artist Pantelis Melissinos

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continues the sandalmaking tradition of his

famous poet-sandalmaker father Stavros,
who names the Beatles, Rudolph Nureyev,
Sophia Loren and Jackie Onassis among his
past customers. But fame and fortune have
not gone to Stavros head; he still makes the
best-value sandals based on ancient Greek
styles in natural leather, a tradition continued by artist son Pantelis.

Music
Metropolis Music (Map pp104-5; % 210 383 0804;
Panepistimiou 64, Omonia) This music haven is well
stocked with Greek and international CDs,
with extensive specialist sections. Its bigger
Greek selection is in the dedicated Greek
music store a few doors down and it sells
tickets to many shows around town.
Xylouris (Map pp104-5; %210 322 2711; www.xy
louris.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39) This music treasure trove is run by the son and widow of
the Cretan legend Nikos Xylouris. Yiorgos
is a font of knowledge and can guide you
through the comprehensive range of traditional and contemporary Greek music, including select and rare recordings. Theres
a big world music section and, of course,
plenty of Cretan music.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air

Athens is served by Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport (Map p155; %210 353 0000; www.aia
.gr) at Spata, 27km east of Athens.
The state-of-the-art airport, named in
honour of the countrys leading 20th-century
politician, has all the standard facilities like
cafs, restaurants and banks, great shopping
and a transit hotel. If you have time to kill,
it is worth visiting the small archaeological
museum on the 1st floor above the check-in
hall. The airport website has real-time flight
information.
See p149 for information on public transport to/from the airport.
DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

The majority of domestic flights are operated by Olympic Airlines (Map p108; %801 144 444,
210 926 9111; www.olympicairlines.com; Leoforos Syngrou
96). Olympic takes credit card bookings on-

line, by phone and also has branch offices

at Syntagma (Map pp102-3; %210 926 4444; Filellinon
15, Syntagma) and Omonia (Map pp104-5; %210 926
7218; Kotopoulou 1, Omonia).

www.lonelyplanet.com

Olympic Airlines has several daily flights

to Thessaloniki, Iraklio, Mykonos and Santorini, Rhodes and all Greek airports. Average one-way fares range from 76 to 120,
but vary dramatically depending on the season youre travelling, so check for specials
and book in advance if you can.
Aegean Airlines (reservations %801 112 0000, 210
626 1000; www.aegeanair.com; Syntagma Map pp102-3;
%210 331 5522; Othonos 15, Syntagma) competes

with Olympic on the most popular domestic

routes. Aegean has the best earlybird specials
and bookings can be made online. Aegean
has daily flights to Thessaloniki, Iraklio,
Rhodes, Mykonos, Santorini and Hania, as
well as several flights weekly to key destinations around Greece.
INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

For information on international services

from Athens, see p733.

Boat
Most ferry, hydrofoil and high speed catamaran services to the islands leave from
Athens massive port at Piraeus (p152).
Piraeus is the busiest port in Greece, with
a bewildering array of departures and destinations, including daily services to all the
island groups, except the Ionians and the
Sporades. The departure points for ferry
destinations are shown on Map p153.
There are also ferry and high-speed services for Evia and the Cyclades from the
smaller ports at Rafina (right) and Lavrio
(right).
You can pick up a weekly ferry schedule
from the EOT tourist office (p110) in Athens; check the daily schedules in the International Herald Tribune or search online
at www.openseas.gr, www.gtp.gr or www
.ferries.gr. See the Getting There & Away
sections for each island for specific details,
and p740 for general information about ferry
travel.
Note that there are two departure points
for Crete. Ferries for Iraklio leave from the
western end of Akti Kondyli in Piraeus,
but ferries for other Cretan ports occasionally dock there as well. Its a long way to
the other departure point for Crete on Akti
Miaouli, so check where to find your boat
when you buy your ticket.
Most hydrofoil and high-speed catamaran
services from Piraeus to the Saronic Gulf

R UATN HN EI NNGS H E A DG ett i nR gu nTnhienre

g S &u bAhwe a dy 145

Islands, the Peloponnese and a growing

range of destinations in the Cyclades are
run by Hellenic Seaways (Map p153; %210 419
9000; www.hellenicseaways.gr; cnr Akti Kondyli & Elotikou,
Great Harbour).

Other operators include Aegean Speedlines

(%210 969 0950; www.aegeanspeedlines.gr).

For additional information on ferries, contact the Piraeus Port Authority (%1441).
TICKETS

To book a berth in a cabin or take a car on

board a ferry, it is advisable to buy a ticket
in advance in Athens. Otherwise, agents
selling ferry tickets are thick on the ground
around Plateia Karaskaki in Piraeus and at
the Rafina and Lavrio ports. You can also
normally purchase tickets at the quay next
to each ferry. Contrary to what some agents
might tell you, it costs no more to buy tickets at the boat.
It is advisable to book ahead for all highspeed services, especially for travel on weekends.
For more information about ferry and
high-speed services and companies, see
p743 and the Getting There & Away sections of the island chapters throughout this
book.
RAFINA

Rafina, on Atticas east coast, is Athens

main fishing port and the second-most important port for passenger ferries. The port
is far smaller than Piraeus and less confusing and fares are about 20% cheaper
but it does take an hour on the bus to get
there.
Rafina port police (%22940 22300) occupies a
kiosk near the quay.
Blue Star Ferries (%210 891 9800; www.bluestar
ferries.com) is the main operator of catamarans
from Rafina to the Cyclades.
There are frequent buses between Athens and Rafina from the Mavromateon bus
terminal (1.90, one hour) between 5.45am
and 10.30pm.
LAVRIO

Lavrio, an industrial town on the east coast

of Attica, is the port for ferries to Kea and
Kythnos and high-season catamarans to the
western Cyclades.
Its scheduled to become a major container port, with a rail link to Athens. Buses

ATHENS & ATTICA

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144 AT
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www.lonelyplanet.com

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FERRY & HIGH-SPEED SERVICES FROM ATHENS & ATTICA

Crete

Dodecanese

Destination

Port

Service

Duration

Fare

Agios Nikolaos
Hania
Hania
Iraklio
Rethymno
Rethymno
Sitia

Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus

ferry
ferry
catamaran
ferry
ferry
catamaran
ferry

14hr
10hr
4hr
10hr
10hr
5hr
14hr

34
24.50-30
53
32-37
29
55
34

Destination

Port

Service

Duration

Fare

Anafi
Andros
Folegandros
Ios
Ios
Kea (Tzia)
Kimolos
Kythnos
Kythnos
Milos
Milos
Mykonos
Mykonos
Mykonos
Mykonos
Naxos
Naxos
Paros
Paros
Paros
Santorini
Santorini
Serifos
Serifos
Sifnos
Sifnos
Syros
Syros
Tinos
Tinos
Tinos
Tinos

Piraeus
Rafina
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Lavrio
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Rafina
Rafina
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Rafina
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Rafina
Rafina

ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
catamaran
ferry
ferry
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
ferry
catamaran
catamaran
ferry

11hr
2hr
6-9hr
7hr
3hr
1hr
6hr
2hr
1hr
7hr
4hr
5hr
3hr
4hr
2hr 10min
6hr
4hr
5hr
3hr
3hr
9hr
5hr
4hr
2hr
5hr
2hr
4hr
2hr
4hr
3hr
1hr
3hr

32.50
11.50
23.50
32.50
47
5
28.60
12.10
27
28.60
42
28.50
46
19
39.50
30
48.50
29.50
45.50
40.50
34
52
15.20
33
28.60
37
24.50-26.50
39
26.50
42
35
18

Frequency
3 weekly
1 daily
daily
1 daily
1 daily
4 weekly
3 weekly

Cyclades

run every 30 minutes to Lavrio from the

Mavromateon terminal in Athens.
Lavrio Port Authority (%22920 25249) has ferry
information.
Goutos Lines (%210 985 2992) is the main operator for ferries from Lavrio to Kea.

Frequency
3 weekly
2 daily
3 weekly
4 daily
1 daily
daily
2 weekly
2 weekly
5 weekly
2 weekly
daily
2 daily
2 daily
2 daily
2daily
4 daily
3 daily
4 daily
4 daily
1 daily
4 daily
daily
2 daily
2 daily
2 daily
2 daily
4 daily
2 daily
3 daily
daily
4 daily
1 daily

Bus
Athens has two intercity KTEL (www.ktel.gr) bus
terminals. Terminal A, 7km northwest of
Omonia, has departures to the Peloponnese,
the Ionians and western Greece. Terminal B,
5km north of Omonia, caters to central and

Destination

Port

Service

Astypalea
Kalymnos
Karpathos
Kasos
Kos
Leros
Lipsi
Nisyros
Patmos
Rhodes
Symi*
Tilos
*via Rhodes

Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus

ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry

Duration

Fare

12hr
10-13hr
20hr
20-29hr
12-15hr
11hr
13hr
13-15hr
9hr
15-18hr
15-17hr
15hr

34.50
32-42.50
31.50
31.10-35.30
34-44.50
25
38.40
44.50
25
42-51.50
32.60
44.50

Frequency
4 weekly
daily
3 weekly
3 weekly
2 daily
daily
weekly
1 weekly
daily
2-3 daily
2 weekly
2 weekly

Northeastern Aegean Islands

Destination

Port

Service

Chios
Fourni
Ikaria
Lesvos
Limnos
Samos

Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus

ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry
ferry

Duration

Fare

6-8hr
11hr
10hr
8-12hr
20hr
12hr

23-29
30
30
27-36
27
33

Frequency
daily
3 weekly
daily
daily
1 weekly
1-2 daily

Saronic Gulf Islands

Destination

Port

Service

Duration

Fare

Frequency

Aegina
Aegina
Hydra
Hydra
Poros
Poros
Spetses
Spetses

Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus
Piraeus

ferry
hydrofoil
ferry
hydrofoil
ferry
hydrofoil
ferry
hydrofoil

1hr
40min
3hr
1hr 40min
2hr
1hr
4hr
2hr

8
12
13.20
21
11.10
19
18.20
29.50

hourly
hourly
1 daily
8 daily
4 daily
8 daily
daily
4 daily

Destination

Port

Service

Duration

Fare

Frequency

Ermioni
Porto Heli

Piraeus
Piraeus

hydrofoil
hydrofoil

2hr
2hr

24.50
30

8 daily
4 daily

Destination

Port

Service

Duration

Fare

Frequency

Evia (Marmari)

Rafina

ferry

1hr

Peloponnese

Evia

northern Greece, and to Evia. The EOT office

(p110) gives out an intercity bus schedule.
MAVROMATEON TERMINAL

Buses for destinations in southern Attica

leave from the Mavromateon terminal (Map p100;

5 daily

%210 880 8000; Alexandras & 28 Oktovriou-Patision, Pedion

Areos), about 250m north of the National Ar-

chaeological Museum.
Buses to Rafina and Marathon leave
from the terminal 150m to the north
on Mavromateon.

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

146 AT
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BUS SERVICES FROM MAVROMATEON

TERMINAL

Destination Duration Fare

Cape Sounion
(coast road)
Lavrio port
Marathon
Rafina port

Frequency

1hr

4.50

hourly

1hr
1hr
1hr

3.80
2.90
1.90

half-hourly
hourly
half-hourly

TERMINAL A

Terminal A (%210 512 4910; Kifisou 100) is not a good

introduction to Athens particularly if you
arrive after midnight when there is no public
transport. See p150 for details of fares, and
p110 for information on taxi rip-offs. Bus
051 goes to central Athens (junction of Zinonos and Menandrou, near Omonia) every
15 minutes from 5am to midnight. A taxi
from the terminal to Syntagma should cost
no more than 6.
KEY BUS DESTINATIONS FROM TERMINAL A

Destination Duration Fare

Corfu*
9hr
Epidavros
2hr
Igoumenitsa
7hr
Kalavryta
3hr
Lefkada
5hr
Nafplio
2hr
Olympia
5hr
Patra
3hr
Zakynthos*
6hr
*includes ferry ticket

44.20
10.40
38.20
14.40
29.00
11.30
25.60
16.20
28.50

Frequency
3 daily
2 daily
4 daily
daily
4 daily
hourly
2 daily
half-hourly
6 daily

TERMINAL B

Terminal B (off Map p100; Liosion 260, Kato Patisia) is less

chaotic and much easier to handle than Terminal A, although again there is no public
transport from midnight to 5am. The terminal is in Gousiou, a side street off Liosion
260. Take bus 024, from outside the main gate
of the National Gardens (Map pp1023) on
Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and ask to get off
at Praktoria KTEL. A taxi to Syntagma should
cost no more than 6.

www.lonelyplanet.com

Car & Motorcycle

TRAINS FOR PELOPONNESE

Getting in and out of Athens is significantly

easier thanks to the new Attiki Odos, and the
upgraded National Rd (Ethniki Odos) as well
as various ring roads around the city.
The top end of Leoforos Syngrou, near the
Temple of Olympian Zeus, is lined with carrental firms. Local companies tend to offer
better deals than the multinationals, so it pays
to do the rounds to get the best price. The
average price you can expect to pay for a small
car for a day is 60, and much less for three
or more days.
Avis (Map p108; %210 322 4951; Leoforos Vasilissis

Destination

Amalias 48)

Budget (Map p108; %210 921 4771; Leoforos Syngrou 8)

Europcar (Map p108; %210 924 8810; Leoforos
Syngrou 43)
Hertz (Map p108; %210 922 0102; Leoforos
Syngrou 12)
Sixt (Map p108; %210 922 0171; Leoforos Syngrou 23)

You can rent mopeds and motorcycles if you

have a licence and the nerve to take on Athens
traffic. Motorent (Map p108; %210 923 4939; www
.motorent.gr; Rovertou Galli 1, Makrygianni) has a choice
of machines from 50cc to 250cc (high-season
prices start at 16 per day).

Train
Intercity trains to central and northern Greece
depart from the central Larisis train station (Map
p100), located about 1km northeastwest of
Omonia Sq (metro Line 2).
For the Peloponnese, take the suburban rail
to Kiato and change for other OSE services
there. A new rail hub (SKA) is going to be
located about 20km north of the city.
OSE (%1110; www.ose.gr; h24hr) offices at Omonia (Map pp104-5; %210 529 7005; Karolou 1; h8am-3pm
Mon-Fri) and Syntagma (Map pp104-5; %210 362 4405;
Sina 6; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat) handle advance bookings. See p736 for information on international train services.
TRAINS FOR NORTHERN GREECE & EVIA

KEY BUS DESTINATIONS FROM TERMINAL B

Destination Duration Fare Frequency

Agios
Konstantinos
Delphi
Halkida
Karpenisi
Trikala
Volos

2hr

12.90

hourly

3hr
1hr
5hr
4hr
4hr

13
6 daily
5.90 half-hourly
21.50
3 daily
22
8 daily
23.50
10 daily

R U N N I N GAT
H EHAE DN S R uGne nt ti innggS uAbr ohue na d 149

www.lonelyplanet.com

Destination Duration

Fare

Alexandroupoli 13hr 50min

(Intercity)
10hr
Halkida
1hr
Thessaloniki
6hr
(Intercity)
5hr 10min
(Intercity Express) 4hr
Volos
5hr 15min
(Intercity)
4hr 40min

25.00
51.50
5.10
15.10
35.30
48.80
12.90
20.70

Frequency
daily
2 daily
17 daily
4 daily
6 daily
3 daily
daily
1 daily

Duration

Fare

METRO

Frequency

Corinth
1hr 20min
6.00
13 daily
(suburban rail)
Kiato (suburban
1hr 35min
6.00
13 daily
rail)
Kiato-Diakofto*
3hr min
2.60
2 daily
(Intercity)
2hr
4.40
2 daily
Diakofto1hr 5min
1.60
Kalavryta**
Kiato-Patra
2hr
42.80
5 daily
(Intercity)
1hr 40min
6.00
4 daily
Kiato-Pyrgos
4hr
4.70
2 daily
(Intercity)
3hr 20min
9.40
3 daily
Pyrgos-Olympia
30min
0.70
2 daily
*from Kiato, you can change to slow or intercity
services
**check, as service was temporarily suspended

GETTING AROUND

To/From the Airport

Getting to/from the airport has never been
easier or faster since the metro and suburban
rail began operating. The cheapest alternative
is the bus. You can also take the suburban
rail to Piraeus.
BUS

Express buses operate between the airport and the city centre, Piraeus and KTEL
bus terminals.
Bus X92 operates between the airport and the
suburb of Kifisia (about 55 minutes), departing
every 45 minutes to one hour all day.
Bus X93 operates between the airport and
the Terminal B (Kifisos) bus station (about
35 minutes), departing every 30 minutes all
day.
Bus X94 operates between the airport and
Ethniki Amyna metro station (about 25 minutes), departing every 10 minutes between
7.30am and 11.30pm.
Bus X95 operates between the airport and
Syntagma 24 hours (every 30 minutes). The
journey takes about an hour, depending on
traffic. The Syntagma bus stop is on Othonos St.
Bus X96 runs 24 hours between the airport
and Plateia Karaskaki in Piraeus, with services every 20 minutes.
Bus X97 operates between the airport and
Dafni metro station (about 25 minutes), departing every 30 minutes all day.
Tickets (3.20) are not valid for other forms
of public transport.

The metro operates an airport service from

Monastiraki, though it is not express so you
can pick it up at any station along Line 3. Just
check that it is the airport train (displayed
on the train and platform screen). Otherwise
you can take any train to the Doukissis Plakentias metro station, where you can connect
to the airport train. If you have not already
purchased a ticket, you can also change at
Doukissis Plakentias for Nerantziotissa station and take the more comfortable and less
crowded suburban rail train.
Trains run every 30 minutes, leaving from
Monastiraki between 5.50am and 10.50pm
and from the airport between 5.30am and
11.30pm.
The metro airport ticket costs adult 6
one way or 10 return (but the return is only
valid for 48 hours). Note that the fare for two
or more passengers works out at 5 each, so
make sure you purchase tickets together (this
is also the case with the suburban rail). The
airport ticket is valid for all forms of public
transport for 90 minutes. If you are still in
transit before the 90 minutes is up, revalidate
your ticket on the final mode of transport to
show you are still on the same journey.
SUBURBAN RAIL

You can take the suburban rail from the

Larisis or Doukissis Plakentias metro station and from Nerantziotissa, on the ISAP
Line. Trains to the airport run from 4.30am
to midnight, while trains from the airport to
Athens run from 5am to 1.20am. The trip
takes 38 minutes and trains run every 15
minutes from Nerantziotissa until 9.30pm,
then half-hourly. The suburban rail has the
same pricing as the metro but the return
ticket is valid for a month.
The suburban rail services also go from
the airport to Piraeus (change trains at Nerantziotissa) and Kiato in the Peloponnese
(via Corinth).
TAXI

Unfortunately, catching a taxi from the airport can often involve an argument about
the fare (see p110 for the full run-down).
Check that the meter is set to the correct tariff. You will also have to pay a
3.20 airport surcharge and a 2.70 toll for
using the toll road, as well as 0.32 cents
for each piece of luggage over 10kg. Fares

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

148 AT
R UHNENNI NS GH E AGDe t tin gR uT hn en re
i n g&s uAbwhaeya d

vary depending on traffic, but expect to pay

from 25 to 30 from the airport to the city
centre, and 30 to Piraeus. Most drivers will
add the tip, so check the breakdown before
adding any extra. Both trips should take no
longer than an hour. If you have any problems, do not hesitate to threaten to involve
the police.

www.lonelyplanet.com

leybuses operate from 5am until midnight. A

free OASA map shows most of the routes.
Tickets for buses and trolleybuses (0.50)
must be purchased at a transport kiosk or
at most periptera and validated on board.
Plain-clothed inspectors make spot checks.
The penalty for travelling without a validated
ticket is 60 times the ticket price.

www.lonelyplanet.com

R U N N I N GAT
H EHAE DN S R uGne nt ti innggS uAbr ohue na d 151
ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

150 AT
R UHNENNI NS GH E AGDe t tin gR uA nr onui nngds u b h e a d

ATHENS METRO SYSTEM

Kifisia
KAT

Line 1 ISAP
Line 2 Metro
Line 3 Metro
Line 2 Future Extension (2008)
Metro Transfer Stations
Airport/Train/Tram/Ferry Connections

Maroussi
Nerantziotissa
Irini
Iraklio
Nea Ionia
Pefkakia

Car & Motorcycle

METRO

While the metro, the Attiki Odos and a new

network of ring roads have helped ease Athens notorious traffic congestion, it can still
be a nightmarish city to drive in. Heavy traffic, confusing signposting, impatient drivers
and one-way streets in the city centre make
driving a challenge.
Drivers have a cavalier attitude towards
road laws and parking restrictions. Athens
kerbs and car parks are insufficient for the
number of cars in the city (more than two
million in Attica), prompting Athenians
to develop ruthless and creative parking
techniques. Contrary to what you will see,
parking is actually illegal alongside kerbs
marked with yellow lines, on pavements
and in pedestrian malls and there are now
paid parking areas, with tickets available
from kiosks.
For details of rental agencies in Athens,
see p14803D1.

The gradually expanding metro (www.ametro.gr)

system has transformed travel around central
Athens. Journeys that once took more than
an hour above ground now take a matter of
minutes. The stations are an attraction in
their own right, displaying finds from the
excavation works (p122R043). Trains and stations can be stifling in summer as limited (or
no) air-conditioning was installed. All have
wheelchair access.
Ticket pricing still distinguishes between
the metro (Lines 2 and 3 0.80) and the old
network (Line 1 ISAP), which is split into
three sections: PiraeusMonastiraki, MonastirakiAttiki and AttikiKifisia (one section
0.70; two or more sections 0.80).
Tickets must be validated at the machines
at platform entrances. The penalty for travelling without a validated ticket is 60 times the
ticket price.
Trains operate between 5am and just after
midnight. They run every three minutes during peak periods, dropping to every 10 minutes at other times.

Public Transport
Athens has an extensive and inexpensive integrated public transport network of buses,
metro, trolleybuses and a tram line.
Athens Urban Transport Organisation (%185;
www.oasa.gr; h6.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30pm
Sat & Sun) can assist with most inquiries.

A 1 ticket can be used on the entire Athens

urban transport network, including the suburban rail. It is valid for 90 minutes but excludes
services to the airport. There is also a daily
3 ticket valid for 24 hours and a weekly 10
ticket with the same restrictions on airport
travel. You have to be doing a fair bit of travel
to make these tickets worthwhile.
BUS & TROLLEYBUS

The blue-and-white local express and regular

buses operate every 15 minutes from 5am
until midnight.
Buses run 24 hours between the centre and
Piraeus every 20 minutes from 6am until
midnight and hourly at other times. Trol-

Line 1 (Green)

The old KifisiaPiraeus line has transfer stations at Omonia and Attiki for Line 2; Monastiraki is the transfer station for Line 3.
Nerantziotissa connects with the suburban
rail. Theres also an hourly all-night bus service (bus 500) along this route, with bus stops
located outside the train stations.

Perissos
Anthoupoli

Ano Patissia

Peristeri

Agios Eleftherios

Agios Antonios
Sepolia
Attiki
Larisis
Metaxourghio
Omonia
Egaleo
Eleonas
Votanikos
Monastiraki
Thisio

Kalithea
Moschato

SARONIC
GULF

Doukissis Plakentias

Halandri
Ethniki Amyna
Viktoria
Katehaki
Panepistimio
Panormou
Ambelokipi
Megaro Mousikis
Evangelismos
Syntagma
Akropoli
Syngrou-Fix
Neos Kosmos
Agios Ioannis

Faliro

Dafni

Piraeus

tinuing from there. Syntagma is the transfer

station for Line 2.
SUBURBAN RAIL

A fast and comfortable suburban rail (%1110;

www.proastiakos.gr; h24hr) connects Athens with
the airport, Piraeus, the outer regions and
the Peloponnese. It connects to the metro
at Larisis and Doukissis Plakentias stations
and spans from the airport to Kiato (1
hours, 10). The network will eventually
span 281km, connecting Athens to Thiva,
Lavrio, Rafina and Halkida.
TRAM

Line 2 runs from Agios Antonios in the

northwest to Agios Dimitrios in the southeast (check the boards so you dont confuse
your saints). Attiki and Omonia connect
with Line 1, while Syntagma connects with
Line 3.

Athens single tram service (www.tramsa.gr)

makes for a scenic coastal trip to Faliro
and Glyfada, but it is not the fastest means
of transport.
It has services running from Syntagma
to Faliro, Syntagma to Glyfada and Faliro
to Glyfada. The tram operates from 5am to
1am Monday to Thursday, then 24 hours
from Friday night to Sunday, servicing revellers travelling to the citys beach bars.

Line 3 runs northeast from Egaleo to Doukissis Plakentias, with the airport train con-

Agios Nikolaos

Petralona
Tavros

Line 2 (Red)

Line 3 (Blue)

Athens International
Airport

Kato Patissia

Agios Dimitrios

The trip from Syntagma to Faliro takes

about 45 minutes, while Syntagma to Glyfada takes around 55 minutes. The central
terminus is on Amalias, opposite the National Gardens. Tickets (0.60) are purchased
at platform vending machines.
A tram extension to Piraeus and Voula is
in the pipeline.

Taxi
If you see an Athenian standing on the road
bellowing and waving their arms, chances
are they are trying to get a taxi at rush hour.
Despite the large number of yellow taxis careering around the streets, it can be difficult
to get one.
To hail a taxi, stand on the pavement and
shout your destination. If it is going your
way the driver may stop even if there are
already passengers inside. The fare is not
shared: each person is charged the fare on
the meter (note where it is at when you
get in).
Make sure the meter is switched on when
you get in. The flag fall is 1, with a 1 surcharge from ports, train and bus stations,

B1
B1
B3
B2
F2

B2

B2
B2
A3
A1
B3
B1

B1

A3
C2
B2
B2

ou
ngi
Sira
u
oundouro
a
atz uriotou
r
a
K ndo
Ep i davrou
u
Ko

SHOPPING
Flea Market..........................12 C1

i Ko
Akt u

ing
os

Ha
rila
ou
Tri
ko 5
up
i
Ka
nth
aro
u

ous

is
Klisov

iou

Karpat

Th

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Sofok

i G

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Hatzik

Klisovi

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Vyron pi
Trikou
onas Irodotou

ok
T h eot

Akti Xa
veriou

13

d
Spyri

SLEEPING
i And
Hotel Triton...........................
7 C2
eohar

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Archaeological Museum.........5 B4
Hellenic Maritime Museum....6 C4

INFORMATION
Ak
Bits & Bytes Internet..............
t i M i1aoC2
uli
s
Emporiki Bank........................
2 C2
Efklia
National Bank of Greece........3 C2
Post Office.............................
4 C2
riakou

International
Ferry Terminal

20

Agoniston Politehniou
Agiou Fanouriou
Androutsou
Od
K

Plateia
Freatidas

Plateia
Alexandras

Ka
n
Zea Marina
(Limani Zeas)

hon
inoma
Ev
Salam
Plateia
erg
Eg
Le
et o
Pigadas
eo
of
s
n
Fre
(Kalavryton)
Po
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dal
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r
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Le
s
kk
a

ak

Sf
11

l in
on

Fil
el

Iasono

rkou
ri Ma
Botsa

27

Great Harbour
(Megas Limin)

Port
Authorities
Building

22
Dodecanese
Passenger
Terminal

DRINKING
Flying Pig Pub......................11 B3

EATING
Markets.................................8 B2
Piraikon Supermarket.............9 C2
Plous Podilatou....................10 E3

Saronic
Gulf
ou n

Mikrolimano
(Small
Harbour)
10

Ira

Idis
ion

Ha
nio
n

Kastella

o ros
Ne s t

18

1
4

ari
un
Go
Ni
kit
a
3

Le
Tsa
of
ma
14
Va
do
sil
Plateia
u
Themistokleous eos
Ge
Plateia orgi
ou
Korai
Plateia
Deligianni
Bo
ub
o
Plateia ulina
s
Terpsitheas
So
Gl a
2A
tiro
dst
sM
Me
s D
on
ta
era
os
ios
Plateia xa A
rhi
Sk
ng
as
ou
Kanari
ze
u
lo

list
ria
s

Ev
an
ge

Plateia
Ippodamias
Ve
ni z
elo
uE
left
her
iou

TRANSPORT
Bus No 040 to Syntagma.....13
Bus No 049 to Omonia........14
Bus No X96 to Airport..........15
Bus Station...........................16
Buses 904/905 to Zea
Marina.............................17
Catamarans & Hydrofoils to
Peloponnese &
Saronic Gulf.....................18
Catamarans to Cyclades.......19
Ferries to Crete....................20
Ferries to Crete.....................21
Ferries to Dodecanese..........22
Ferries to Eastern Cyclades....23
Ferries to Northeastern
Aegean............................24
Ferries to Western & Central
Cyclades ..........................25
Hellenic Seaways..................26
International Ferries..............27
Saronic Gulf Ferries..............28
Tram Terminus.....................29

Faliron
Coastal Zone
Olympic Complex

M
eg

Di
sto
mo
u

Pafsaniou
dou

Py
lis

Alipe

12

Delfinario

29

A lexandrou
Plateia
Lohagou
Papadopoulou Sp.
lla
e
v
T za
Fili
pp
Skoufa
ou

As
ias
ikr
as
M

S k y l i t si
riou
Maka
rhou
Ethna
D il o u

Karaiskaki
Stadium ti
ikio
ard
a-G
Griv
Faliro

ou K
ara
poul
no
o
fia
So

Sky
litsi
Om
Di
irid
ak
ou
ou
At
h

nit
o
Ep
o
Ag Dionysiou

Peace &
Friendship
Stadium

Ethnarhou Makariou

Smolensky

Karaiskaki

Kallergi

Souri G

ana
Nirv
u
ido
nom
Iko

s
sido
a
Parn

u
da
llo

Ko
ry

lis

21

a ri

Thesmofor
iou

ATHENS & ATTICA

500 m
0.3 miles

ka

23

ka
Kolosou

uri

Sahto
azi
Tomb

ou
Favier

an

0
0

My

Kononos

Aristidou
Plateia
16
Karaskaki 8
Akti Tzelep
i Ak
7
ti P
15
2
os
ei d
28
9
on
24
os

li

19

Ak
ti
M
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u

25

os

Piraeus
Metro
Station
17
Loudovikou

on

Retsina

26 Piraeus
Suburban
Rail Station

Fil

Akti Kondyli

lok

Ko

s
Antistaseo Parko
Eth nikis
riou Iliou Ilia
28 Oktov

An
t is t
ase
os

Alon
Kastoros

Ka
llig

Le
os
the
no
us
Pe
rik
leo
us

N
o
Ko tara
lok
otr
on
i

Plateia Ag
Dionysiou

lki
v

iad
o

Dragatsaniou

on

os

ton

Pla

otr
on
i

lyte
hn
io

Mpotsari Markou

N
Fra eosik
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Gravias

itr
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up
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34 O
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in
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a
Ev
gm
rip
ato
s
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ni

Pra
x
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lou
Yp
sila
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nto
u

PIRAEUS

os
son
Wil

nou

Ra
lli

Ah
arn
on

Ag Dimitriou

De
lig
eo
rgi

Egaleo

Dervenakion

rio
n

Niko
leto
po
ulo
u

Akti Kalimassioti

Mavromihali

a
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Ne
o

La
m
b
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rig dro
ori uts
ou
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Navarinou

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A lm
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do
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Ma
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no
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Tih

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ver

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an

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ak
M

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Ak t i D

ur i a

Ze
M
a
s
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R
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Fe
tho
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Ka

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ka n
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P an o

Ak
ti

tso
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kou
ula

Biz

There are lots of places to change money along

the Great Harbour, as well as plenty of ATMs.

ilidi
nou
ma

os

Em

on

li

ez

INFORMATION

li

Karao

ORIENTATION
Piraeus is 10km southwest of central Athens.
The largest of its three harbours is the Great
Harbour (Megas Limin), on the western side
of the Piraeus peninsula, which is the departure point for all ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran services. Zea Marina (Limin Zeas) and the
picturesque Mikrolimano (Small Harbour),
on the eastern side, are for private yachts.
The metro and train lines from Athens
terminate at the northeastern corner of the
Great Harbour on Akti Kalimassioti. Most
ferry departure points are a short walk over
the new footbridge from here. A left turn out
of the metro station leads after 250m to Plateia
Karaskaki, the terminus for buses to the airport. A block to the right is the suburban
rail station.

Leof Irinis
Zervou

Piraeus is the main port of Greece and one

of the Mediterraneans major ports. The city
is the hub of the Aegean ferry network, centre of Greeces maritime export-import and
transit trade, and base for its large merchant
navy. While Piraeus was a separate city,
nowadays it virtually melds imperceptibly
into the expanded sprawl of Athens. The
road linking the two passes through a grey,
urban sprawl of factories, warehouses and
concrete apartment blocks.
Piraeus can be as bustling and trafficcongested as Athens, though the proximity
to the sea gives it a different feel. Central
Piraeus is not a place where many visitors
linger; most come only to catch a ferry. Beyond its faade of smart, new shipping offices and banks, much of Piraeus today is a
hotchpotch of rejuvenated pedestrian precincts with shopping strips, restaurants and
cafs and more grungy areas with run-down
buildings or industrial zones.
The most attractive part of Piraeus is the
eastern quarter around Zea Marina, and the
lovely, albeit touristy Mikrolimano harbour,
where the seafront is lined with restaurants,
bars and nightclubs. The charming residential
neighbourhood of Kastella on the hill above
Mikrolimano and the swanky seaview apartment blocks around Freatida are where the
money is. Piraeus waterfront was tarted up
before the Olympics, creating a tree-lined
promenade along the ancient walls surrounding the harbour.

Rangavi

k l io
u
Man
o
u
s
ou
Va
sile
Heyde
os
n
Pa
vlo
u

pop 175,697

Piraeus has been the port of Athens since

classical times, when Themistocles transferred
his Athenian fleet from the exposed port of
Phaleron (modern Faliro) to the security of
Piraeus. After his victory over the Persians at
the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC, Themistocles
fortified Piraeus three natural harbours. In
445 BC Pericles extended these fortifying walls
to Athens and Phaleron. The Long Walls, as
they were known, were destroyed as one of the
peace conditions imposed by the Spartans at
the end of the Peloponnesian Wars, but were
rebuilt in 394 BC.
Piraeus was a flourishing commercial centre
during the classical age, but by Roman times it
had been overtaken by Rhodes, Delos and Alexandria. During medieval and Turkish times,
Piraeus diminished into a tiny fishing village,
and by the time Greece became independent,
it was home to fewer than 20 people.
Its resurgence began in 1834 when Athens
became the capital of independent Greece
and by the beginning of the 20th century, it
had superseded the island of Syros as Greeces
principal port. In 1923 its population swelled
with the arrival of 100,000 Greek refugees
from Turkey. The Piraeus that evolved from
this influx had a seedy but somewhat romantic appeal with its bordellos, hashish dens and
rembetika music all vividly portrayed in the
film Never on a Sunday (1960).

R U N N I N G H E A D R u n n i n g SPuI RbAh Ee Ua dS 153

do
ur
ou

PIRAEUS

HISTORY

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ATHENS & ATTICA

and a 3.20 surcharge from the airport. After

that, the day rate (tariff 1 on the meter) is
0.30 per kilometre. The night tariff (tariff
2 on the meter) increases to 0.60 per kilometre between midnight and 5am. Baggage
is charged at a rate of 0.30 per item over
10kg. The minimum fare is 2.65, which
covers most journeys in downtown Athens.
For more information about Athens taxi
drivers, see p110R043.
Booking a radio taxi costs 2.50 extra.
Athina 1 (%210 921 7942)
Enotita (%801 11 51 000)
Ikaros (%210 515 2800)
Kosmos (%18300)
Parthenon (%210 532 3000)

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Zaim
i T
hr

152 PR IURNANEIUNSG H E A HD i sto r Ry u n n i n g s u b h e a d

There are luggage lockers at the metro station

(24 hours 3).
There is free wi-fi access around the port,
and at McDonalds and Starbucks.
Bits & Bytes Internet (%210 412 1615; Iroon
Polytehniou 2, Monastiraki; per hr 2; h24hr)
Emporiki Bank (cnr Antistaseos & Makras Stoas) Has a
24-hour automatic exchange machine.
National Bank of Greece (cnr Antistaseos & Tsamadou)
Near the Emporiki Bank.
Post office (cnr Tsamadou & Filonos; h7.30am-8pm
Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat).

SIGHTS

If you have time to spare, the Piraeus Archaeological museum (%21045 21598; Harilaou Trikoupi 31;
adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is a good
place to spend it. Its well laid out and contains some important finds from classical and
Roman times. These include some very fine
tomb reliefs dating from the 4th to 2nd century BC. The star piece of the museum, however, is the magnificent statue of Apollo, the
Piraeus Kouros. It is the oldest larger-than-life,
hollow bronze statue yet found. It dates from
about 520 BC and was discovered in Piraeus,
buried in rubble, in 1959. It was temporarily
closed for renovation in 2007.
The Hellenic Maritime Museum (%210 451

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backstreets or further afield at the Mikrolimano harbour, Marina Zea and along the
waterfront promenade at Freatida.
Flying Pig Pub (%210 429 5344; Filonos 31; h9am1am) Run by a friendly Greek Australian, the
Pig is a popular bar with a large range of beers.
It also serves decent food, including a generous English breakfast.
You can stock up on supplies before a ferry
trip, in the area just inland from Akti Poseidonos. The markets (h6am-4pm Mon-Fri) are on
Dimosthenous. Piraikon supermarket (%210 417
5764; Ippokratous 1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) is
opposite the markets.

SHOPPING

Flea Market (cnr Alipedou & Skylitsi Omiridou; h7am-2pm

Sun) The Piraeus flea market rivals its famous
counterpart in Athens. As well as stalls selling
junk, there are small shops selling jewellery,
ceramics and antiques. The market is near
Plateia Ippodamias, behind the metro station.
Antique hunters are better off scouring the
stores in the streets around the market.

Bus

to life, with models of ancient and modern

ships, seascapes by leading Greek 19th- and
20th-century painters, guns, flags and maps
as well as part of a submarine on the museum
grounds. There is also a small Museum of the
Electric Railway (admission free; h 9am-2pm & 5-8pm)
in the metro station.

SLEEPING

Metro & Suburban Rail

Theres no need to stay at any of the shabby

cheap hotels around Great Harbour when
Athens is so close (theyre aimed more towards
accommodating sailors than tourists). The better hotels are geared for the business market.
Dont attempt to sleep out Piraeus is probably
the most dangerous place in Greece to do so.
You could try the budget Hotel Triton (%210
417 3457; Tsamadou 8).

The metro is the fastest and easiest way to get

from Piraeus to central Athens (see p150).
The station is at the northern end of Akti Kallimassioti. Travellers should take extra care as
the section between Piraeus and Monastiraki
is notorious for pickpockets.
Piraeus is now connected to the suburban
rail, whose terminus is opposite the metro station. To get to the airport or the Peloponnese
you change trains at Nerantziotissa.

EATING & DRINKING

There are dozens of cafs, restaurants and
fast-food places along the waterfront at Great
Harbour but the better restaurants are in the

R U N N I N G H EATA DT I CA R u nCnai pn eg SSuobuhnei oa nd 155

tinue to be among the regions main attractions, although they pale alongside the superb
Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion.
Many of these places can be reached by
regular city buses; others can be reached by
KTEL services from the Mavromateon bus
terminal.

904 or 905 between Zea Marina and the metro

station.

ATTICA
Greater Athens and Piraeus account for the
bulk of the population of the prefecture of
Attica. The plain of Attica is an agricultural
and wine-growing region, with several large
population centres. It has some fine beaches,
particularly along the Apollo Coast and at
Shinias, near Marathon.
Until the 7th century, Attica was home to
a number of smaller kingdoms, such as those
at Eleusis (Elefsina), Ramnous and Brauron
(Vravrona). The remains of these cities con-

CAPE SOUNION

Temple of Poseidon
N

The ancient Greeks knew how to choose a site

for a temple. Nowhere is this more evident
than at Cape Sounion, 70km south of Athens,
where the Temple of Poseidon (%22920 39363; adult/
concession 4/2; h9.30am-sunset) stands on a craggy
0
0

ATTICA
Lake Iliki

E75

STEREA
ELLADA

Klidi

Pyli

Kapareli

Kalamos

E75

Neohoraki

Erythres

Skourta

Panakto

E962

Stefani

Inoi
Porto Germeno

Mt Parnitha
National Park

Thrakomakedones

Future SKA
Rail Hub

Alepohori
Veniza

Agioi
Dafni Anargyroi
Peristeri

Moni Dafniou

Megara
Salamina

Mt Egaleo
(463m)

Piraeus

Salamina Bay

Straits of
Salamina

Gulf of Megara
Salamina

Aegina
Town

Perama

Angistri

Shinias Beach
Nea Makri

Kifisia

At

Elefsina
(Eleusis)

Marathon
Tomb

E75

Mt Pendeli
(1107m)

Aharnes

E94

Agia
Marina
Marathon
Shinias

Agia Triada

Fili

To
Corinth (30km);
Patra (170km)

Ramnous

Lake
Marathon

Mt Parnitha
(1413m)

tik

Athens
Olympic
Complex

iO

Moni
Kaisarianis

ATHENS

do

Petalia
Gulf

Rafina
Eleftherios
Venizelos
International
Airport

To Evia
(20km)

Loutsa

Koutouki
Caves

To the
Cyclades
(170km)
Vravrona
(Brauron)

Peania Spata
Vorres
Museum

Flisvos
Mt
Hymettos
Faliro
(1026m)
Kalamaki
Koropi
Beach
Agios Alimo
Kosmas
Limni
Glyfada
Voula Vouliagmenis
Voula Beach
Varkiza
Kavouri
Vouliagmeni
Varkiza
Vouliagmeni
Beach
Beach

Porto Rafti
Markopoulo
Kalyvia
Keratea

Anavissos

Aegina

Saronic
Gulf

GETTING AROUND
Piraeus has its own network of buses but the
services likely to interest travellers are buses

Evia

Gulf of
Evia

Skala Oropou

Kalithea

Thiva
(Thebes)
Melissohori

10 km
6 miles

To Halkida
(4km)

To Lamia (150km);
Larisa (260km);
Thessaloniki (430km)

GETTING THERE & AWAY

Bus Nos 040 and 049 operate 24 hours a day
between Piraeus and central Athens; they run
every 20 minutes from 6am until midnight and
then hourly (0.50). Bus 040 runs between Akti
Xaveriou in Piraeus and Filellinon in Athens.
Bus 049 runs between Plateia Themistokleous
in Piraeus and Omonia in Athens.
The X96 PiraeusAthens Airport Express
buses leave from the southwestern corner of
Plateia Karaskaki.
See p146 for information on bus services
to the rest of Greece.

6264; Akti Themistokleous, Plateia Freatidas, Zea Marina;

adult/concession 3/1.50; h9am-2pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am2pm Sun) brings Greeces maritime history

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To Western
Cyclades (140km);
Crete (260km)

To Kea (22km);
Kythnos (55km)

Apollo
Coast

Lavrio

Sounion
Temple of Poseidon

Cape
Sounion

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

154 PR IURNANEIUNSG H E A SDi ght sR u n n i n g s u b h e a d

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spur that plunges 65m down into the sea. Built

in 444 BC at the same time as the Parthenon,
it is constructed of local marble from Agrilesa
and its slender columns of which 16 remain
are Doric. It is thought that the temple was
built by Ictinus, the architect of the Temple of
Hephaestus in Athens Ancient Agora.
The temple looks gleaming white when
viewed from the sea and is discernible from
a long distance. It gave great comfort to sailors
in ancient times; they knew they were nearly
home when they saw it. The views from the
temple are equally impressive. On a clear day,
you can see Kea, Kythnos and Serifos to the
southeast, and Aegina and the Peloponnese to
the west. The site also contains scanty remains
of a propylon, a fortified tower, and, to the
northeast, a 6th-century temple to Athena.
Try to visit early in the morning before the
tourist buses arrive or head there for the
sunset if you wish to indulge the sentiments
of Byrons lines from Don Juan: Place me
on Suniums marbled steep, Where nothing
save the waves and I, May hear our mutual
murmurs sweep.
Byron was so taken by Sounion that he
carved his name on one of the columns sadly
many others have followed suit.
There are a couple of tavernas just below
the site if you want to combine a visit with
lunch and a swim.
You can take either the inland or the more
scenic coastal bus to Cape Sounion from Athens. The coastal buses leave Athens hourly, on
the half-hour (4.50, 1 hours), from the Mavromateon bus terminal. See p147 for details.
These buses also stop on Filellinon, on the
corner of Xenofontos, 10 minutes later, but by
this time theyre usually very crowded.

thousands of pilgrims wanting to be initiated

into the Eleusinian mysteries. They walked
in procession from the Acropolis to Eleusis
along the Sacred Way, which was lined with
statues and votive monuments. Initiates were
sworn to secrecy on punishment of death,
and during the 1400 years that the sanctuary
functioned, its secrets were never divulged.
It was closed by the Roman emperor Theodosius in the 4th century AD.
The sites museum helps make some sense
of the scattered ruins, with models of the
old city.
Take bus A16 or B16 from Plateia Eleftherias (Koumoundourou), north of Monastiraki. Buses run every 20 minutes and take
about 30 minutes in reasonable traffic.

ELEFSINA (ELEUSIS) I

AROUND PEANIA

The ruins of Ancient Eleusis (%21055 46019;

adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) lie surrounded by oil refineries and factories beside
the industrial town of Elefsina, 22km west
of Athens.
Its hard to imagine Eleusis in ancient
times, but nestled on the slopes of a low hill
close to the shore of the Saronic Gulf, ancient Eleusis was built around the Sanctuary
of Demeter. The site dates back to Mycenaean
times, when the cult of Demeter, one of the
most important cults in ancient Greece,
began. By classical times it was celebrated
with a huge annual festival, which attracted

DAFNI I

Moni Dafniou
The 11th-century Dafni monastery (%21058
11558; Leoforos Athinon), 10km northwest of Athens along the busy road to Corinth, is Atticas most important Byzantine monument,
and is on Unescos World Heritage list. The
monastery was badly damaged by the 1999
earthquake and it was still unclear at the
time of research when it would reopen.
The monastery stands on the site of an
ancient Sanctuary of Apollo along the route
of the Sacred Way that ran from ancient
Eleusis to the Acropolis. The temple was destroyed by the Goths in AD 395, although a
single Ionic column survives in the narthex
of the church. The church contains some of
Greeces finest mosaics.
Bus A16 from Plateia Eleftherias can drop
you outside the monastery.

Koutouki Cave
Although the facilities here are run-down,
this two-million-year-old cave (%210 664 2910;
www.culture.gr; Peania; adult/concession 5/3; h9.30am3.45pm Mon-Fri) is one of the finest in Greece,

covering 3300 sq metres and containing

stalagmites and stalactites. It is well lit and
guided tours end with a quirky sound-andlight finale with classical music.
The cave is best visited by car. Buses 125
and 308 from outside Ethniki Amyna metro
station can take you as far as Peania; from
there you can take a taxi about 4.5km to
the cave.

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R U N N I N G H E A D AT
T IRCuAn nin gVSruabvhr oe na da 157

Vorres Museum

mound that is the Marathon tomb (%22940

This impressive private modern art and folk

museum (%210 664 2520; www.culture.gr; Parodos Dia-

55462; 350m from Athens-Marathon rd; site & museum 3;

h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Jun-Oct). In ancient Greece,

dohou Konstantinou 4, Peania; adult/child 5/2.50; h10am2pm Sat, Sun & August, by appointment Sep-Jul) is on the

the bodies of those who died in battle were

returned to their families for private burial,
but as a sign of honour the 192 men who fell
at Marathon were cremated and buried in this
collective tomb. The site has a model of the
battle and historical information.
Nearer to the town is the excellent Marathon museum (%22940 55155; admission incl site 3),
which has local discoveries from various periods, including neolithic pottery from the
Cave of Pan and finds from the tomb of the
Athenians. New finds from the area include
several well-preserved larger-than-life statues from an Egyptian sanctuary. Next to the
museum is one of the areas prehistoric grave
circle sites, which has been preserved under
a hangar-like shelter, with raised platforms
and walkways over the site. There is another
hangar containing an early Helladic cemetery
site on the way to the museum.
About 8km west of Marathon is Lake Marathon, a massive dam that was Athens sole
source of water until 1956. The dam wall,
completed in 1926, is faced with the famous
Pentelic marble that was used to build the
Parthenon. Its an awesome sight, standing
over 50m high and stretching for more than
300m.
Hourly (half-hourly in the afternoon) buses
depart from Athens Mavromateon terminal
to Marathon (2.90, 1 hours). The tomb and
the museum are within a short walking distance of bus stops (tell the driver where you
want to get off). There are no bus services to
Lake Marathon.

lovely 2.5-hectare estate that is the home of

Ion Vorres. Vorres migrated to Canada as a
young man but built his home here in 1963
and began collecting art (housed in a modern
gallery), furniture, artefacts, textiles and historic objects from around Greece to preserve
the national heritage.
Take bus 308 to Koropi-Peania from Ethniki Amyna metro station.

VRAVRONA

The Sanctuary of Artemis (%22990 27020; adult/

concession 3/1.50; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) was a revered site for worshippers of the goddess of
the hunt, protector of women in childbirth
and newborns. The temple is one of several
monuments from this Neolithic settlement.
The museum (temporarily closed at the time
of research) houses exceptional finds from the
sanctuary and excavations in the area.
Take the metro to Ethniki Amyna, then
bus 304 to Loutsa. Its a 10-minute taxi ride
from there, with a nice stretch of beach on
the way.

MARATHON & AROUND

Marathon

The plain surrounding the unremarkable

small town of Marathon, 42km northeast of
Athens, is the site of one of the most celebrated
battles in world history. In 490 BC an army of
9000 Greeks and 1000 Plataeans defeated the
25,000-strong Persian army, proving that the
Persians were not invincible. The Greeks were
indebted to the ingenious tactics of Miltiades,
who altered the conventional battle formation so that there were fewer soldiers in the
centre, but more in the wings. This lulled the
Persians into thinking that the Greeks were
going to be a pushover. They broke through
in the centre but were then ambushed by the
soldiers in the wings. At the end of the day,
6000 Persians and only 192 Greeks lay dead.
The story goes that after the battle a runner
was sent to Athens to announce the victory.
After shouting Enikesame! (We won!) he
collapsed in a heap and never revived. This is
the origin of todays marathon race.
Four kilometres before the town of Marathon is the 10m-high tumulose or burial

Ramnous
The ruins of the Ramnous ancient port (%22940
63477; admission 2; h8am-5.30pm) are about 10km
northeast of Marathon. Its an evocative, overgrown and secluded site, standing on a picturesque plateau overlooking the sea. Among
the ruins are the remains of the Doric Temple
of Nemesis (435 BC), which once contained a
huge statue of the goddess. Nemesis was the
goddess of retribution and mother of Helen
of Troy. There are also ruins of a smaller 6thcentury temple dedicated to Themis, goddess
of justice.
Another section of the site was recently
opened to the public, leading 1km down a picturesque track to the relatively well-preserved

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENS & ATTICA

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ATHENS & ATTICA

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158 AT
R UTNINC IAN G H E M
A Dt Pa r nRi tuhnan i n g s u b h e a d

fortress on the cliff top near the sea, with the

remains of the city, a temple, gymnasium and
theatre. The site is well off the beaten track
and consequently one of the least spoilt. You
need your own transport to get there.

Shinias
The long, sandy, pine-fringed beach at
Shinias, southeast of Marathon, is the best
in this part of Attica and also very popular,
particularly at weekends. Shinias was the
controversial location chosen for the rowing
competition in the 2004 Olympic Games,
despite concerns about its susceptibility to
strong winds and its proximity to significant
wetlands.
Camping Ramnous (%22940 55855; www.tggr.com
/camping-ramnous-athens; Leoforos Poseidonos 174; camp
sites per adult/tent 6.50/7) on the way to the beach

has a childrens playground and waterslide.

The bus to Marathon stops at the entrance
to the camp site and within walking distance
of Shinias beach.

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MT PARNITHA
Mt Parnitha National Park, just 20km north
of the city centre, is a popular weekend escape
for Athenians, though, tragically, thousands
of hectares of century-old fir forest were razed
during the 2007 fires. It will take decades to
recover from what experts are calling an environmental disaster.
Mt Parnitha comprises a number of smaller
peaks, the highest of which is Karavola at
1413m high enough to get snow in winter.
The park is crisscrossed by numerous walking
trails, marked on the Road Editions trekking
map of the area. Most visitors access the park
by cable car from the outer Athens suburb of
Thrakomakedones. The cable car drops you
below Casino Mt Parnes (%21024 21234; www.mont
-parnes.gr; h24hr), a gaming and hotel complex.
The casino runs a free bus service from
various locations in Athens, including outside
the Hilton. You can get to the cable car station
on bus 714 from the south end of Aharnon,
near Plateia Omonias.

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