Design and Build an English Wheel

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Tags:
english wheel (/tag/type-id/category-workshop
/keyword-english wheel/)
wheel (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-wheel/)
metalwork (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordmetalwork/)
sheet metal (/tag/type-id/category-workshop
/keyword-sheet metal/)
auto body repair (/tag/type-id/category-workshop
/keyword-auto body repair/)

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18/03/2015 10:45 AM

Design and Build an English Wheel

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tool/?utm_source=base&
An english wheel is a classic hand-powered shop tool for making
Gas (petrol) powered jeep
Design
and
Build
an
English
Wheel
by
mattthegamer463
(/member/mattthegamer463/
)
two-dimensional curves in sheet metal. Its used for making aircraft skins, car
from ride on mower
body parts, suits of armor and other applications where a smooth surface on the
Download (/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/?download=pdf
)
(/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/ ) 7 Steps
(http://www.instructables.com
sheet is desired, something extremely difficult to achieve with a hammer. It is
/id/Gas-petrol-poweredalso very useful for planishing; smoothing dimpled or bumpy sheet metal after
jeep-from-ride-onCollection
I Made it!
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Tails
for the Serpent
Twins
hammering.
An english wheel seemed like an excellent tool to build. I read up on the theory
of operation to get an idea of how it worked, looked at some pictures of wheels
on the internet, and I set forth to design and build it. The whole process only
took two weeks, start to finish.
It works by stretching the small strip of material that comes in contact with both
wheels as it is passed repeatedly between them. This stretching results in the
material developing a curvature after many repeated passes. Rolling in
different directions and angled results in different effects. You can see the
results of my first test sheet, and all I had to go by was what I picked up from a
couple of videos I saw on Youtube.

(http://www.instructables.com
/id/Tails-for-the-SerpentTwins/?utm_source=base&
utm_medium=relatediPhone Case of Polished
Metal
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/id/iPhone-Case-ofPolishedSee More (/tag/type-id/?q=)

This instructable will be a rough-over of how to do most of the work, highlighting

some insights I picked up along the way. You can scale the design ideas to
make a benchtop model or a larger floorstanding version. The only thing that
changes is the size of the "C" shape body, and the length of the adjustment
screw, to accommodate larger work pieces.

Step 1: Design

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Design and Build an English Wheel

Design and Build an English Wheel

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by mattthegamer463

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The design is quite simple. The two wheels run against each other and the
tructables.com/F7Y/XYE6/GZI8KA72/F7YXYE6GZI8KA72.LARGE.jpg)
material is worked between
them, with weight from the top one pressing down
and pressure applied by the screw mechanism pressing the bottom one up, the
sheet metal between is slowly thinned and curved.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F85/3RLV/GZLW47A1/F853RLVGZLW47A1.LARGE.jpg)

I've made drawings of all the complex parts for the project. The ones not shown
are just simple cut lengths of a standard size material (square tube, rod, etc) so
a 2D drawing wouldn't be of any more help than just a written length. The PDF
attached to this step is the design for the overall machine, showing the main

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lengths and their arrangement. I uploaded it as a PDF because the numbers
Design
and Build
an English
Wheel
(/member/mattthegamer463/
)
and details
are invisible
as an image.
The screw by
in mattthegamer463
red is just to show
how it
passes up through the bottom to allow adjustment.
Download (/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/?download=pdf

(/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/

I didn't have the material or lathe capability to make a 8" diameter disk for use
Collection
as the top anvil, so I recommend purchasing one online or at Harbor Freight.
A
gigantic bearing
would
suffice,
if
you
can
find/get
one.
The
bottom
anvil
is
a
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FYO/RLV8/GZKGLOED/FYORLV8GZKGLOED.LARGE.jpg)
curved bearing from a pillow block, these are perfect for this application
because they are hardened and also run perfectly smooth and straight even if
they are mounted off-center.

I Made it!

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A bit about tools: Without welding, a mill or lathe, this project will be every
difficult. Keep in mind that is project is designed for someone with access to
machine tools. They don't need to be fancy, but they are virtually required to
complete this project.
The following list correlates to the drawings below, and the quantities of each
part you will need to make, and what material to make them out of.
Guide rings (2) - 3/4" steel plate
Pipe end cap (2) - 1/8" steel plate
Lower anvil holder base (1) - 1/4" steel plate
Gusset (4) - 1/8" steel plate
Clamp/mounting bracket (4) - 3/16" steel angle
Top anvil mounts (1) - 1/8" steel plate
Threaded rod guide (1) - 3/4" steel plate
Lower anvil holder side (2) - 1/4" steel plate
Guide rod plate (1) - 1/4" steel plate
Lower anvil pin (1) - 1/2" steel rod
Anvil holder guide housing (1) 2" steel square tube
Two bushings for the top and bottom anvils. These will depend on what you
are using for anvils. They just need to be adapted for the holders.
In addition to these, you will also need to cut the following lengths of material:
9-1/2" length of 3/4" diameter threaded rod
4" length of 1-1/4" diameter steel pipe
2" length 1/2" solid rod
24", 26.75" and 26" lengths of 2" square tube, 1/8" thick wall
Hardware:
5x 3-1/2" long 1/2" bolts
5x 1/2" nuts
5x 1/2" lock washers
9x 1/2" washers
4x 8-32 1/2" flat head screws

frame.pdf

(/files/orig/FZH/8663/GZKG36UF/FZH8663GZKG36UF.pdf)8 KB

Step 2: Lower Anvil and Holder

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The lower anvil in my project is a pillow block bearing, which has a curved outer
edge perfect for this application. The anvil is held on a pin which is placed on a
U-shaped holder made of 1/4" steel plate. This holder is welded to a 4" long
steel pipe. The other end is connected to another small plate with a rod welded
to the bottom of it. This rod, along with the two guide rings at the top, allow this
entire assembly to move up and down inside the guide housing when the
handle is turned.
At the bottom of the guide housing there is the threaded rod guide. This plate
with a 3/4" threaded hole in it is the only part that holds the adjustment rod.
The adjustment rod presses directly against the guide rod that is connected to
the moving assembly.

Step 3: Top Anvil Mounts

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Design and Build an English Wheel

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The top anvil is attached to the frame with two pieces made from 1/8" plate.
The anvil I purchased came with bearings that required a 3/4" rod, so I turned a
bushing to allow me to use the 1/2" bolts that I had. I put washers between the
mounts and the anvil. When welding the mounts to the end of the frame, I took
the wheel off and bolted the bushing in place so that they would be correctly
spaced and lined up.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F5R/TBNB/GZGT3MSS/F5RTBNBGZGT3MSS.LARGE.jpg)

Step 4: The Frame

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This step is just welding all the tube segments, mounting pieces, and gussets
together. You can use your preferred welding style, I used MIG since I am best
with it. The bottom tube length needs holes drilled through it for the 1/2" bolts
that hold the mounting brackets on. You can see them in the picture below.
What you can't see is the other 1" hole drilled through the bottom tube beneath
the lower anvil
guide housing at the bottom right corner of the frame. This is a
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F92/6DI7/GZACJA8H/F926DI7GZACJA8H.LARGE.jpg)
hole for the 3/4" threaded rod to pass through from the handle to the anvil
holder that it has to move.
In order for everything to line up it is important that the frame is welded straight.
If the cuts on the ends of the square tubes are not straight, then the tubes
should be clamped and tacked in place at the correct angle and the gap filled
with weld. Using a carpenter's square is a definite must. It is also important
that the correct tube ends are placed against the correct tube sides or else the
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOD/9YQL/GZMIUHKU/FOD9YQLGZMIUHKU.LARGE.jpg)
two wheels
won't line up.
If there is an issue with alignment, one way to iron out any inaccuracies is to
weld the three main tube lengths, then mock everything up and find the right
place to put the anvil holder guide housing below the top anvil, and tack it in
place. Remove everything that you mocked up and complete the remaining
welds and gusset welds.
Pipe end caps cover the top-left and bottom-right pipe openings. I left the
bottom-left opening uncapped since it will be facing the table, and the top anvil
holder covers the top-right pipe opening. The gussets are welded into the
inside of each of the four corners to increase rigidity in the frame.
The mounting brackets are drilled with a 1/2" hole to match the holes through
the bottom of the frame.

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Step 5: Paint and Assembly

Design and Build an English Wheel

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Since this whole project is made of steel, its a good idea to paint it so it doesn't
rust. You'll want to clean the welds using a wire brush to get the soot and scale
off, and grind off the splatter if you care how it looks. Getting rid of sharp edges
on the welds and cuts is definitely a good idea.
Assembly is pretty self-explanatory. Be sure to use lock washers for the
mounting brackets otherwise they might come loose, and this thing is pretty
top-heavy. Once the lower anvil holder assembly is in place the guide rings can
be screwed into place with the 8-32 screws.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFI/H49Q/GZ6I5W5M/FFIH49QGZ6I5W5M.LARGE.jpg)

Step 6: Operation

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How to use: simply hold the material and push it back and forth between the
rollers. You can push down on the sheet while you roll to control how quickly the
process goes, but the bends in the material will be smoother if you take your
time. Please keep in mind when looking at the pictures below that I have never
used one of these machines before, I had no clue what I was doing! I was
totally winging it but it turned out pretty good for a first time, I feel.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2E/GU2C/GZACJVUN/F2EGU2CGZACJVUN.LARGE.jpg)

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Step 7: Complete!

Design and Build an English Wheel

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My machine is designed to be clamped down (instead of bolted) since I need to

be able to move it around and off of the workbench. If you want to bolt yours
down, simply drill some additional holes in the mounting brackets to bolt to the
table with.
Thanks for reading and if you have any questions please let me know.

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We have a
Please be positive and const

Add Images

Giesterfarher

Make Comment

1 year ago

Reply

I made one very similar to this several years ago for forming motorcycle fuel
I went a slightly different direction though, and put the adjustment
screw on the large anvil on top, and put the small anvil in a V-block in the
bottom leg. This allowed me to get inside the fuel tank shell and smooth out
the hammer marks and die stretch marks that are impossible with the normal
English wheel design. This also makes repeatable tension settings a breeze,
since I put gradations on the adjuster wheel and the frame body. . .

(/member tanks.
/Giesterfarher/)

StretchCT (/member/StretchCT/)

1 year ago

Reply

2 years ago

Reply

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thanks for this, its next on my 'to do' list now

(/member
/StretchCT/)

TheFullMetalAlchemist (/member/TheFullMetalAlchemist/)

I like that lower anvil, would be great for doing skinny bike fenders, mine are a
(/member tad too wide.
/TheFullMetalAlchemist/)

iminthebathroom (/member/iminthebathroom/)

2 years ago

Reply

2 years ago

Reply

excellent
(/member
/iminthebathroom/)

abstracted (/member/abstracted/)

a great top anvil "donor" might be a wheel frm scaffolding. not to critique
much, but your top anvil braces seem a tad weak, but awesome. i
wanna make a replica of a vintage brass deep sea diving helmet....this might

(/member toooooo
/abstracted/)

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Design and Build an English Wheel

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be just what i need.

Design and Build an English Wheel

by mattthegamer463

(/member/mattthegamer463/

Download (/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/?download=pdf
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mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author) abstracted
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2 years ago
I was thinking that too, but I tested it out and found
Collection
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(/member it didn't
/mattthegamer463/)

need any reinforcement. The forces on that

area are pretty straight vertical, so the thin material
seems to do alright. The gusset on the inside of
that corner helps a lot too.

3 years ago

khansencan (/member/khansencan/)

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excellent ible! This belongs in the 1% of what Instructables is about. A gem

so much uninteresting stuff (adhering to the "be nice" policy).
What is the weight of the top roller?
What thickness of steel sheet can it handle?

(/member amongst
/khansencan/)

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

Thanks! I haven't tested any high gauges, but I

guess that a patient man might be able to
do 16 gauge (59th, 1.5mm). I haven't tested it
above about 20 gauge (35th, 7/8mm)

khansencan
Reply
3 years ago

(/member would
/mattthegamer463/)

The wheel weighs 21 lbs. 8" diameter, 2" wide.

3 years ago

knife141 (/member/knife141/)

(/member
/knife141/)

Reply

Great job!! I've looked at floor mounted English wheels before, but couldn't
afford the shop space for such a beast. I like the fact that yours can be bolted
to a workbench, then removed if the space is needed for something else. I
may have to build one of these. Thanks for posting this.

pfred2 (/member/pfred2/)

(/member
/pfred2/)

knife141

3 years ago

Reply

That is what caught my eye with this one. All the English Wheels I've
ever seen have been large self standing ones.

ironsmiter (/member/ironsmiter/)

pfred2

3 years ago

Reply

A very nice design... and if you were going to a slightly smaller

had a massive heavy vice) you could weld a piece of plate
along the bottom, and clamp it in a vice!

(/member scale(or
/ironsmiter/)

pfred2 (/member/pfred2/)

ironsmiter

3 years ago

Reply

This is the biggest vise I have:

(/member
/pfred2/)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Tripod-Vise-Stand/
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Tripod-Vise-Stand/)
I can pick the whole thing up and move it around, but it stays put
pretty good on its own too.

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

pfred2

From what I've learned here, I bet one could be made from a C-clamp and
used for small brass and aluminum sheets and the like.

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Design and Build an English Wheel

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3 years ago

Design and Build an English Wheel

by mattthegamer463

(/member

Download
(/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/?download=pdf
/mattthegamer463/)

pfred2 (/member/pfred2/)

(/member
/pfred2/)

(/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/

mattthegamer463

Collection
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3 years ago

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The throat depth would limit the size pieces that could be worked
though. The only real use I could put an English Wheel to would be
automotive body work. Anymore I've been taking a car of the future
mentality there anyways, with Bondo and fiberglass.

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

Yes of course. If you were doing jewelery or some

(/member kind of trinket-making a C-clamp sized version
/mattthegamer463/)
could be useful.

pfred2 (/member/pfred2/)

(/member
/pfred2/)

Reply

(/member/mattthegamer463/

mattthegamer463

pfred2
3 years ago

Reply

3 years ago

Reply

I guess so. Jewelery and trinket making aren't anything I'd do though.
Nothing wrong with it for those with aptitude and interest, but I'm afraid
I've neither unless I can divine a purpose. Sounds like nut house
therapy to me if I'm going to be completely honest. I'm a bit twisted,
but I ain't that far gone yet!

knife141 (/member/knife141/)

pfred2

3 years ago

Reply

3 years ago

Reply

+1 on the nut house therapy....

(/member
/knife141/)

pfred2 (/member/pfred2/)

(/member
/pfred2/)

knife141

the day I wake up and find myself at a long table stringing beaded
bracelets along with a bunch of other slack jawed inmates is the day I
really start to worry!

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

No problem. I had some of the stuff lying around

(/member so mine cost about $120. Full parts cost would
/mattthegamer463/)
probably be $140 tops.

Lectric Wizard (/member/Lectric+Wizard/)

knife141
3 years ago

Reply

3 years ago

Reply

Nice job !! If I can add a thought, if you were to make the wheels & their
removable you could attach an air hammer & anvil to the frame to
make a power hammer,two tools in the space of one...

(/member mounts,
/Lectric+Wizard/)

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

Certainly. Might need some reinforcement, and the

mount would have to be beefed up from
1/8" plate.

Lectric Wizard
Reply
3 years ago

(/member top anvil

/mattthegamer463/)

Hawkeye_bkj (/member/Hawkeye_bkj/)

What gauge of steel are you able to work with?

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Design and Build an English Wheel

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3 years ago

Design and Build an English Wheel

by mattthegamer463

(/member
Download (/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/?download=pdf
/Hawkeye_bkj/)

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(/member/mattthegamer463/

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3 years ago

heathbar64 (/member/heathbar64/)

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I was thinking maybe two steel or iron caster wheels would work. Does that
feasible? How much pressure is between the wheels? I always
imagined that it would have to be considerable, but you talk about the weight
doing it.

(/member sound
/heathbar64/)

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

I don't think the pressure is immense. Castor

sound like a great idea. It is important that
the lower one is small and has rounded edges,
however, or else it will be very hard to get a convex
curve. The material contact point between the two
wheels should be very small, only a single point,
not a line.

heathbar64
Reply
3 years ago

(/member wheels
/mattthegamer463/)

3 years ago

Phil B (/member/Phil+B/)

Reply

Nicely done.
(/member
/Phil+B/)

You can buy a commercially made benchtop English wheel from Metalcraft
Tools (http://www.metalcrafttools.com/btenglishwheel.html) in Crossville,
Tennessee. They even have hands-on courses for those who wish to learn to
use an English wheel. You can also buy the upper and lower anvils. The
lower anvils come in a set with several styles.
My son-in-law does auto body work. One word of caution I learned from him is
that it is very easy to run your thumb or fingers into the wheels, which is an
experience you will never forget.

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

Yes, I should look into what I would imagine to be

(/member steel-toe boots for your fingertips! Not a bad idea,
/mattthegamer463/)
there.

CementTruck (/member/CementTruck/)

Phil B
3 years ago

Reply

3 years ago

Reply

Do either of the wheels have a convex shape? I couldn't tell by the photos. I
thought it was necessary to achieve the complex shapes.

(/member always
/CementTruck/)

Great idea! Kudos.

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

The bottom wheel has a convex shape, yes. Thats

otherwise the material will not easily take
on a convex shape itself. The top wheel is flat, but I
do not see a reason why it couldn't be convex too.

CementTruck
Reply
3 years ago

(/member important
/mattthegamer463/)

CementTruck (/member/CementTruck/)

mattthegamer463

If both wheels were convex you could transition from a downward curve to
an upward without flipping the piece around.

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Design and Build an English Wheel

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3 years ago

On another
note, youWheel
could get a
Design and Build
an English

by mattthegamer463

(/member machinist to tweak 2 wheels for

Download
(/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/?download=pdf
/CementTruck/)
you; one with a groove and another
one with the exact opposite. You
could make creases in floppy metal
to add rigidity. Your english wheel
just became a multitasker. ;)

Reply

(/member/mattthegamer463/

(/id/Design-and-Build-an-English-Wheel/

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mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

Yep, different wheels for different tasks makes it

darn versatile.

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CementTruck
Reply
3 years ago

(/member pretty
/mattthegamer463/)

3 years ago

colin353 (/member/colin353/)

(/member
/colin353/)

Reply

Astoundingly magnificent work, sir. I fear that you have become craftsmanship
personified.

3 years ago

rimar2000 (/member/rimar2000/)

Reply

This tool seems very useful. What if I use two bearings of same size?
(/member
/rimar2000/)

I think can't get that big steel wheel.

mattthegamer463 (/member/mattthegamer463/) (author)

I think it should work... The large weight helps,

(/member however. I think if you had to use a smaller one you
/mattthegamer463/)
might need to reinforce the frame to prevent any
flexing. You can always add additional
reinforcement if it doesn't work.

rimar2000
3 years ago

Reply

Thanks for the patch :)

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

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Design and Build an English Wheel

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