Wet Processing Technology -IV

WPT 402

Duration
10 October 2010 - 10 December 2010

Factory Name
GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd.
Sardagong, Kashipur, Gazipur

Supervising Teacher
Ismat Zerin
Prepared By
Md. Yusuf Miah
ID # 05310015
Bath: 1st

Department of Textile Engineering

40, Kemal Ataturk Avenue
Banani, Dhaka -1213, Bangladesh
1

Index
Sl No.

Chapter No.

Description

Index No

01

Chapter- 01

Peoject Description

01

02

Chapter- 02

Manpower Management

07

03

Chapter- 03

Knitting Section

13

04

Chapter- 04

Batch Section

44

05

Chapter- 05

Lab Section

48

06

Chapter- 06

Dyeing Section

83

07

Chapter- 07

Finishing Section

128

08

Chapter- 08

Yarn Dyeing Section

161

09

Chapter- 09

Garments Section

194

10

Chapter- 10

Printing Section

201

11

Chapter- 11

Effluent Treatment Plant

216

12

Chapter- 12

Maintenance

237

13

Chapter- 13

Inventory

242

14

Chapter- 14

Cost Analysis

249

15

Chapter- 15

Utility Services

251

Project Description
Name

: Montex Fabrics Ltd (Mondol Group).

Type

: 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.

Year of establishment

: 2000

Investor

: Abdul Mojid Mondol

Location

: Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur.

Project cost

: 70 crore

Certification & awards

: ISO 9001:2000.

Production capacity

: Knitting: 7 tons/day
Dyeing: 18 ton/day
Sewing: 70,000pcs/day

Main Production

: Basic T-Shirt, Long Sleeve, Sweater,

T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Pajama, Ladies, Kids
Knitwear& all kinds of knit
Garments & Knit fabrics.

Factory space

: 9 acor

Garments or knitting

: 5 acor

Dyeing

: 3.75acor

ETP

: 0.25acor

Contact information:

Contact persons

: Md. Saifur Islam (HR Manager)

Contact Number

: 01713424473

Corporate office

: H-8 2nd Floor,

Sonargang, Janapath Road Sector -11, Uttera,
New Modal Town, Dhaka-1230

Factory

: Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur

Supporting department

Personnel department

Marketing and Mercendising

Utility

Human resource Department

Accounting and financing

Sister companies of Montex Fabrics Ltd.

1. Mondol yarn dyeing Ltd.
2. Montrim Ltd..
3. Mondol Knitt wears Ltd.
4. Cotton club (BD) Ltd.
5. Alim Knitt wears Ltd.
6. Mondol Seccuraty Ltd.
7. Apollo Fashion Ltd.
8. Mondol Switers Ltd.
9. Mondol Fabrics Ltd.
16 Sisters companies of Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Email Address: [email protected]

URL:http://www.mondol.net

History of the project development

After successful operation in Montex fabrics Ltd, the owner had decided to start a
fully information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality
controlled modern ready made composite knit garments industry in large scale. In this
connection Abdul Mojid Mondol had decided in a resolution to start a company in Nayapara,
Konabari and Gazipur. In the year 2000 to manufacture knitwear garments for the
international market. Right from inception the policy of the company has been to provide
total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time. To meet the commitments of
quality and prompt delivery, Montex fabrics Ltd Decided to integrate the manufacturing
process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process has been integrated by
importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned manufacturers.
Working on new concepts in styling & content of the knitwear is a continuous activity
in Montex fabrics Ltd with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise .In
2000, the year in which International business was started; Montex fabrics Ltd. concentrated
all its strengths and resources in developing a wide range of knitwear for the international
market.

Vision & mission of the project

The mission and vision of Montex fabrics Ltd. is to manufacture and deliver high
quality readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and
enhance customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade
garments and also to increase efficiency of workforce.
To attain these objectives, the management of Montex fabrics Ltd. has decided to
adopt the following To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the
organization.
By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.
To collect customers feedback regularly to know about their conception about
their company and to take timely appropriate action.
To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annums
implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the
organization.

konabari

Chandra

Jaydebpur
Chaurasta

Bi-pass

Factory

Nayapare

Station
road

Abdullahpur

Air port

Banani

9 store
building
Ground floor
Finishing

ETP

Boiler,
generat
or

Finishing
Marchensd
ing
Packing

1st floor
Fabric store
2nd floor
Account section
3rd floor
Lab section
WPT

5th floor

west

ETP

Security Room

South

North

Finishing section

East

Inspection
Sewing section
Cutting section

Factory main gat

Switer section
Printing section

Ground floor

Dyeing section
1st floor

Dyeing floor

Dyeing section

2nd floor

Store
3 Store
Building
For
Security

3rd floor
Winding section
4th floor

Knitting section
5th floor

Printing section

Yarn dyeing
&
Finishing

Boiler

Organizational structure:

Managing Director

Director

Knitting division

Dyeing division

Production manager

Asst. General Manager

Knitting Master

Q.C

Supervisor

Asst. manager

fitter

Sr.P.O

Operator

Executive

Helper

supervisor

Sr. Operator

Operator

Helper

10

Section wise manpower

Department
Knitting section
Knit Dyeing
Garments section
Power generator boiler and utility
Inventory / store keeper
Administration
Security
Batch section
Yarn dyeing
Finishing
Lab
Q.C
Others
Total

Manpower
90
170
5000( above )
89
23
73
50
16
94
185
14
24
180
6008
Knitting section

Knitting manager
Knitting master
Supervisor
Q.C
Fitter man
Operator
Cleaner
Total

1
1
2
2
2
78
4
90

Batch selection section

(Both general and shifting)
Batch selection section
Batch incharge
Supervisor
Sewing operator
Helper
Total

Man power
2
2
4
8
16
Knit Dyeing section
(Both general and shifting)

AGM
Sr. manager
Manager
Production officer
Incharge
Supervisor

1
1
2
4
4
4

11

Sr, m/c operator

m/c operator
Helper
Total

4
50
100
170
Yarn dyeing section
(Both general and shifting)

AGM
Sr. manager
Manager
Production officer
Supervisor
m/c operator
Helper
Total

1
1
1
1
2
44
44
94

Finishing section (yarn and knit dyeing)

Spo
Finishing executive
Sr.operator
Operator
Helper
Cleaner
Total

2
8
10
84
72
9
185
Lab section

Manager
Lab incharge
QC
Lab asst.
Total

1
2
4
7
14

Quality control section

Q.C incharge
Technician
Q.C asst.
Total

4
8
12
24

12

Power generator boiler and utility

Power
Generator
Boiler
Utility
Total

12
15
12
50
89
Inventory

Store manager
Store keeper(dyeing, knitting , garments)
Total

2
5+4+12=21
23

Administration
Chairman
Managing director
Merchandiser
Purchase
Accounts
Commercial
Computer
Total

1
1
42
9
11
3
6
73

Management system:

Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager.

Marching is done under lab manager.
Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager.
Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production.
Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager.
Then shift incharge with the supervisors start bulk production.
On line and off line quality check is done by lab incharge and asst. dyeing manager.
After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the
supervision of shift inchargr.
Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.

Shift change for worker:

A shift = 8.0 am to 8.0 pm

B shift = 8.0 pm to 8 am

But offices time 9.0 am to 5.0 pm

13

Responsibilities of shift incharge:

Over all supervision of production both dyeing and finishing.
Batch preparation and pH check.
Dyes and chemical requisition, issue and check.
Write fabric loading and loading time form machine.
Programmed making, sample checking, color matching.
Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.
And also other work when it is required by top level management.
Job description:
Title: asst. manager
Dept/section: dyeing and finishing
Report to: manager.
Job summary:
After having the work order, prepares production plan.
To execute and follow up the plan along with quality conformation.
To face various difficulties of production and overcome them.
Inspecting the material for conformation to buyer requirements.
Job description:
Title: shift incharge
Dept/section: asst. dyeing manager
Jobs summary:
To execute the plan given by asst. dyeing master.
Organizing personnel under him.
Control the supervisors, operators, asst. operators and helpers of dyeing machine.
Checking of shade match.

Remarks:
The manpower management system of montex fabric ltd. Is will arranged. Every officers &
stuffs are responsible for their duty. But there are only three textile engineers in the industry
manager (dyeing), manager (lab), and R&D officer. It is not sufficient for smooth production.
More technical people are required.

14

15

KNITTING HISTORY:
1758: Jedediah strut, the inventor of the Double knit (rechts- rechts) technique. This
invention refers to an attachment for the hand knitting frame, which become world famous
under the name Derby rib m/c.
1798: Monsieur Decroix arranges the needles radially into a corona, which rotates and thus
moves the needles one after the other through the knitting stages. The circular knitting frame
is born.
1805: Joseph Marie jacquard presented his control apparatus for shed building on weaving
looms in
Lyon. It is not clear as to when jacquard started getting interested in the
problems of the knitting industry after his success in the weaving filed. But today we do
encounter the jacquard device in different vitiations on knitting m/cs for the same purposes:
individual movement of knitting and transfer needles, sinker or guide needles for patterning.
1847: Matthew Townsend obtains a patent for his invention of the latch needle. A new epoch
in the knitting technique begins. With the help of these needles stitch formation become
easier, because the press was on longer necessary. The result was simplification of the
mechanism, increase in production speeds, and reduction of costs.
1850: the circular knitting m/c has been developed from the English circular knitting frame. It
was initially equipped with stationary bearded needles in vertical position. Larer on, it was
built with latched needles, which can be individually moved this is characteristic for a
circular knitting m/c.
1852: Teodor Groz.opend his workshop in Ebingen in the swabin alb and Ernst beckert
started naking needles in Chemnitz. Both of them wanted to assist the manufacturers of
knitted stocking by presenting them with needles, which would not get bent or broken. This
meant that the measles were no longer made from iron but from steel. Today the concern
Groz Beckert delivers exactly adapted needles for every kind of knitting m/c.
1878: D. Griswold gets a patent for a circular knitting m/c, which can produce plain or ribbed
fabric tubes in any desired distribution. The vertical cylinder needles are enhanced by
horizontal dial needles also individually moveable in radial slots. This leads for the first time
to two new denotions small rib m/c and large rib m/c.
1910: the firm Robert Walter Scott in Philadelphia was granted a patent for interlock fabric
The interlock fabric is a double faced fabric composed of two crossed double knit fabric.
1918: The first double cylinder, small circular knitting m/c with a double hook needle and
sliders (needle pushers) was built in English by the firm Wildt
.
1920: besides flat knitting m/cs, increasing use is made of circular knitting m/cs for the
fabrication of color parented fabrics. This is done with the help of yarn changer devices and
needle selection via pattern wheels and punched tapes made from steel or paper.
1935: after the production of circular sinker wheel m/cs was srarted in 1906, the firm Mayer
& Cie. Began producing circular knitting m/cs. Mayer & Cie. Introduced mass line
production of these m/cs in 1939.

16

1946: after this period notable further developments were made in circular knitting with
regard to higher performance and new products as a result of an increase in feeder numbers, a
raise in the production speeds and the use pf new needle technologies. The old pinion feed
wheel units were replaced by new yarn delivery devices like tape feeders and measuring
meters with yarn reserve for smooth fabrics and knit patterns as well as storage feeders fore
jacquards. These new devices have increasingly taken over the control and monitoring of
yarn delivery. Such peripheral equipment placed on high speed circular knitting m/cs and
fabric quality.
1963: the era the electronics begins at the international textile m/cry exhibition ITMA
1963 in hanover. The first electronic needle selection is demonstrated by the firm morat on its
film- taper-controlled moratronik, with later on gets into serial production. Today a
computer is used for data storage and a dickered is the data carrier.
1967: the legendary OVJA36, which is probably world wide the most successful circular
knitting m/c so far, is exhibited at the ITMA in Basle. More than 7000 m/cs of this type were
built in the following years.
1987: the firm Mayer & Cie begins with the serial production of the PELANIT, a plain
(rechts- links) circular knitting m/c having a relative movement between needles and sinkers.
It will be producing more than 1000 m/cs till the ITMA 1991.
Modern circular knitting technology will be determined by increases in performance,
reductions in setting up times and flexible utilization. The technical designer will have to
deal with this challenge now and in the future.
Knitting is the most common method of interloping and is second only to weaving as a
method of manufacturing textile structures. It is estimated that over seven million tons of
knitted goods are produced annually throughout the world. Although the unique capability of
knitting to manufacture shaped and form- fitting articles has been utilized for centuries,
modem technology has enabled knitted constructions in shaped and unshaped fabric form to
expand into a wide range of apparel, domestic and industrial end uses.
Knitted fabrics of a wide variety of types are presently enjoying unprecedented
consumer demand. In many end uses, where formerly woven fabrics held undisputed away,
knitted cloth has taken a commanding lead, while in those end uses where the knitted fabric
traditionally has been supreme, production advanced by leaps and bounds.
To most people, knitted fabric is somewhat of an unknown quantity. Few people can
distinguish it readily form woven fabrics fewer still have any conception how it is produced.
Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser, By: Eng. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal, C.Text. ATI
(UK) pag: 223,324,325

Knitting:
Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of
yarn into a series of interloping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately
preceding it.
Types of weft knitting m/c:
Circular knitting m/c
Flat bed knitting m/c

17

Main parts of circular knitting m/c:

1. Yarn feed guide
2. Latch needle
3. Holding down sinker
4. Needle cylinder
5. Needle retaining spring
6. Needle operating cams
7. Cylinder driving wheel
8. Cylinder driving gear
9. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main shaft
10. Sinker cam top
11. Sinker operation cams which form a raised track operating in the racesl of the sinker
12. Sinker trick ring which is simple and directly attached to the outside top of the needle
cylinder thus causing the sinkers to revolve in unison with the needle.
13. Cam box
14. Cam plate
15. Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.
16. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.
17. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
18. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
19. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.
20. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the m/c stops when any problem occurs.
21. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
22. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric
23. Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting
M/c to feed the yarn at specific finger.
24. Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting m/c
Needle:
The fundamental element in construction of knitted fabrics is the knitting needle.
Needle is the main knitting tools and also the principal element of m/c knitting.
Classification of needle
1. The spring-bearded needles
2. The latch needles
3. The compound needles.
According to the Butt position Latch needle are four types:

One butt latch needle

Two butt latch needle

Three butt latch needle

Four butt latch needle

18

Sinker:

SINKER

This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual
and collective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoing
needles.
Cam:
Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating
action for the needles or other elements.
Types of cam: two type of cam
1. Engineering cam

Knit cam

2. Knitting cam

Miss cam
Tuck cam

19

Circular knitting m/c (Construction and working principle)

1. Side-creel (Tube-type): Keep & guide yarn packages to yarn feeding rollers
2. Yarn feeding system: Control the fabric weight by changing loops length
3. Bobbin table: Fixed with yarn feeding devices
4. Driving motor
(5 HP, 7.5 HP)
5. Bed assembly: Rotation of cylinder
6. Head assembly : Rotation of dial
7. Lubricator : Supply of lubricants
8. Knitting head (Cam/needle/yarn guide): Core knitting compositions for producing
the various kinds of knit structures
9. Take-up assembly: Take down the fabric tube with constant tension
10. M/c controller: Control box and panel for controlling dynamic
Force of m/c
11. Safety guard: Protection of workers from rotating Take-up device
12. Creel

20

12
3

4
6
5

7
8

10

11

Figure: schematic diagram of weft knitting machine (circular knitting m/c)

21

Main parts of flat bed m/c:

- Carrage
-Relling
-Feeder
-Guide bar
-Top tensioner
-Side tensioner
-Operational butt
-Take up roller
-Brash
-Lace braces
Flat bed m/c
Needle of flat bed m/c:
Brand name: ORGAN (CHINA)

Terms and definition of knitting:

Course a horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle
Wale a vertical column of loops formed by a single needle
Loop: it is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic
unit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft
of woven structures termed Wales and courses respectively
Stitch: the smallest dimensionally stable unit of al knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a yarn
loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop.
Stitch length: stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles the needle loop &
half the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more extensible
& lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.
Steps should be taken to change stitch length.
- Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing.
- Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley.
- Set of the position of carriage.
- Set the speed of take- up roller
- Maintain the optimum yarn tension.
Stitch Density: Courses per inch (CPI) Wales per inch (WPI)
M/c Gauge: a number of needles per unit length in the knitting m/c, measured as the number
of needles in one inch. This measure determines the number of Wales per unit length in the
knitted fabric

22

Organogram of Knitting Section:

AGM

Manager /Asst. Manager (Production & Plan)(02)

Manager
(Technical)
Asst.Manager (01)

Sr. Executive (Production, Plan & Sample) (02)

Sr. Feeder/Feeder(07)
Executive / Jr. Executive (Prod. & Sample) (05)
Asst. Feeder(04)
Sr. Supervisor/Supervisor (06)

Sr. Operator/Operator (135)

Sample Supervisor (02)

Needle Man(03)
Sample Asst.(05)
Servicing Man(06)

Asst. Operator (33)

Servicing Helper(06)
Production Helper (21)

Manager / Asst. Manager (Store)(01)

Sr. Executive / Executive (02)

Jr. Executive (Yarn)(02)

Store Asst.(Yarn)(03)

Loader (Yarn)(26)

Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric)(03)

Store Asst.(Grey Fabric)(07)

Batch Helper/Loader (35)

23

Duties & Responsibilities of Production manager:

* To collect order sheet from merchandiser
* To talk with knitting master for necessary m/c set up
* To collect the production accessories for production
* To discuss with AGM about overall production if necessary
* Any other assignment given by the authority.

Working Sequence of Knitting Section of Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Order sheet receiving From Merchandiser
Selecting of production parameter
Arranging of yarn
Testing of yarn
Arranging of selected m/c
Making a pre-production sample
Starting of bulk production after approval
Checking of grey fabric
Delivery of grey fabrics according to batch wise

24

Specification of circular knitting m\c:

No. of
m/c
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19

M/C
Dia
20
21
23
25
24
17
17
23
22
34
26
22
28
38
36
38
42
40
30

M/C
Gauge
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
20
20
24
24
24
24

No. Of
Feeder
60
62
68
74
72
50
50
68
60
102
68
66
84
114
108
114
126
120
42

No. Of
Needle
1500
1584
1728
1872
1800
1285
1272
1728
1656
2544
1944
1656
2112
2376
2268
2856
3168
3000
2256

M/C
Spec
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J

Brand

Origin

Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung

Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan

20
21

30
21

24
24

42
62

2256
1584

S/J
S/J

Pailung
Pailung

Taiwan
Taiwan

22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32

36
34
32
34
36
34
32
42
36
34
38

18
20
18
18
24
18
18
24
24
24
24

54
48
64
72
72
72
64
84
72
72
76

2040
2124
18002
19202
27122
25442
18002
31682
27122
25442
28562

Rib
Fleece
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Inte
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib / Int.
Rib/Int.

Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung
Pailung

Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan.
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan

33

19

24

57

1440

S/J

Unitex

Singapore

34

20

24

60

1488

S/J

Unitex

Singapore

35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43

30
18
19
40
36
34
40
34
36

28
24
24
20
20
20
20
20
20

90
54
57
120
108
102
120
102
108

2638
1332
1440
1220/3000
2232/2688
2520/2100
1728
2135
2260

S/J
S/J
S/J
H/J-S/J
H/J-S/J
H/J-S/J
Fleece
Fleece
Fleece

Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex

Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore

25

44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69

36
36
38
44
40
40
34
36
36
40
34
36
32
28
34
36
36
16
17
24
25
23
19
21
38
22

20
20
20
16
19
18
24
24
24
24
18
20
18
24
24
24
36
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24

108
108
114
80
84
84
72
78
78
84
72
108
66
120
108
116
116
48
51
72
75
69
57
63
76
69

2260
2260
2386
2210
30002
30002
3840/5100
4044/5400
4044/5400
4500/6000
3960/5088
2232/2688
3720/4824
28562
5088
5400
5400
1212
1272
1800
1896
1728
1440
1584
4260
1656

Fleece
Fleece
Fleece
Rib
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int.
Rib/Int
Interlock
Interlock
Interlock
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
S/J
Inter
Rib/Inte
S/J

70

18

33

57

1872

S/J

71

24

24

78

1800

S/J

72

20

24

65

1512

S/J

73

26

24

84

1944

S/J

74

30

24

69

2268

S/J

75

34

18

72

1920

Rib

76

30

16

62

15102

Rib/Int.

77
78

38
36

20
20

114
108

2400
2232

H/J-S/J
H/J-S/J

Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Unitex
Fukahama
Fukahama
Fukahama
Fukahama
Fukahama
Fukahama
Fukahama
Fukahama
Mayer &
Cie
Mayer &
Cie
Mayer &
Cie
Mayer &
Cie
Mayer &
Cie
Mayer &
Cie
Mayer &
Cie
Mayer &
Cie
Smart
Smart

Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Singapore
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Taiwan
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Germany
Taiwan
Taiwan

26

Specification of flat bed knitting m\c:

M/c no
Brand name
Country
Feeder
Machine gauge
Machine Width
Total needle
Types of Knitting

: 01-17
: SHIMA SEIKI
: Japan
:2
: 14
: 52
: 1680
: One side

M/c no
Brand name
Country
Feeder
Machine gauge
Machine Width
Total needle
Types of Knitting

: 18-19
: SHIMA SEIKI
: Japan
:4
: 14
: 52
: 1680
: Both Side

Raw materials for knitting:

Source of yarn for knitting:
1. Malwa Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd. (India)
2. Thermax Textile Mills Ltd. (TTML) Bangladesh
3. G Swadesh Mills Ltd (India)
4. Nahed Composite Textile Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)
5. Supreme Texmart Ltd. (India)
6. V.P.L (Owsal Group) India
7. Arif Textile Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)
8. Squire (Bangladesh)
9. R.S.W.M
10. Winsome
11. Chemma
12. GARG
13. GTN
14. Manal
15. Banif Spinning Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)
16. TMSML

27

Name of Buyer:
1. Best Seller
2. Rex & Holm
3. Russel
4. Gebel
5. Nak Fashion
6. C House
7. Pimkie Chanter
8. Peak Apparces
9. Mondial
10. Gebal
11. Teama Group
12. Kappa
13. N.J.C (Robint) USA
14. Litano
15. P & C
16. Fruit of the Wom
17. Nalt
18. Tom Tailor
19. Mavi
20. Ferrari

Lycra: CREORA
Made in Korea
Type # H-100 (20D, 40D)
Type of yarn

Count

Cotton

20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S

,40S, 45S

Polyester

70D, 100D,150D

Spandex yarn

20D,40D, 70D

Grey Mlange (C-90% V-10%)

24S, 26S

Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%)

24S, 26S, 28S

Cotton Mlange (100%)

24S, 26S, 28S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)

24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton)

24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

28

Name of product mix:

The product, which are available in knit dyeing floor are given below:
1. Single jersey / Single jersey with lycra.
2. Polo pique, Lacost (Single / Double).
3. Rib - (1x1), (2x2), (8x2), (9x2), (9x1).
4. Lycra Rib, Drop needle fabric.
5. Interlock.
6. Grey mlange.
7. Stripe (S/J, rib, interlock, grey mlange

Relation between G.S.M. & Yarn Count

For cotton / Blend / CVC fabric:S/J without Lycra Fabric G.S.M

110 120
120 130
130 140
140 150
150 160
170 210

Yarn Count
40 S 36 S
36 S - 32 S
32 S 28 S
28 S
26 S
24 S

Rib without Lycra Fabric G.S.M

180 - 190
190 - 200
200 - 215
215 - 230
230 - 250
250 - 300

Yarn Count
36 S - 32 S
30 S
28 S
26 S
24 S
24 S

Interlock without Lycra

Fabric G.S.M
200 220
220 230
230 250
250 300

Yarn Count
34 S
32 S
30 S
26 S

Lacost (S/L, D/L) without Lycra

Fabric G.S.M
180 190
190 210
210 230
230 250

Yarn Count
30 S
28 S
26 S
26 S

29

40D Lycra Rib

Fabric G.S.M
230 240
240 250
250 280
280 300

Yarn Count
32 S
30 S
26 S
24 S

40D Lycra S/J

Fabric G.S.M
180 190
190 210
210 220
220 240
240 250

Yarn Count
34 S
32 S
30 S
28 S
26 S

FABRIC TYPES:
1) Single Jersey
a) Single jersey (Plain)
b) Single lacoste
c) Double lacoste
d) Fleece fabric
e) Single lacoste Half Feet Lycra
f) Single lacoste Full Feet Lycra
2) Double jersey
a) Rib fabric
i)
1x1 Rib
ii)
2x1 Rib
iii)
2x2 Rib
iv)
v)

Lycra Rib
Flat Back Rib

b) Interlock Fabric
i) Plain interlock
ii) Design Interlock
iii)Drop needle interlock
3) Back Brush.

30

4) Collar and Cuff

i)
Plain Collar or Solid collar
ii)
Shaving Collar.
iii)
Jacquard Collar.
iv)
Tipping Collar.
v)
Race Collar.
vi)
Stripe Collar.
5) Different decorative single and double jersey fabric.

Some Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:

- Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
- Finished G.S.M.
- Yarn count
- Stitch length
- Types of yarn (combed or carded)
- Diameter of the fabric.

Design analysis:

General Design Discussion:

Here,
= Knit loop
= Tuck loop
1
1

2
2

3
1

4
2

= Miss loop

Cam set up:

1
2
3
4
Needle arrangement: - 1 2 3 4/ 1 2 3 4//

31

This fabric can by produced by two tuck cam

Optimum cam set up: 1

2
Optimum needle: - 1 2 1 2/ 1 2 1 2//

In MONTEX FABRICS LTD. for double jersey m/c two Truck cam are generally
used to produce Rib, Interlock Thermal, Mini-Thermal, Waffle, Mini-Waffle etc fabric

Different Fabric with Structure, Notation diagram & Cam setting

Fabric: Single jersey

Notation Diagram
Plain structure
Cam Setting Arrangement

32

Needle Arrangement
1
2
N.B:

1 = One butt needle

2 = Two butt needle

= Knit stitch
= Knit cam
Inter lock

Rib

C
D = Dial
C = Cylinder

Fabric: 1 1 Rib
Cam Setting Arrangement

C
Rib structure
Rib structure

D = Dial
C = Cylinder

33

Needle Arrangement

HL

HL
L

LS

11

11

22

22

N.B:
= Knit cam
H =High butt needle
L = Low butt needle
1 = One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle

Fabric: 2 2 Rib
Cam Setting Arrangement

34

Needle Arrangement
LH

LS

11

11

22

22

N.B:
= Knit cam
H = High butt needle
L= Low butt needle
C= Cylinder
D= Dial
1 = One butt needle
2 = Two butt needle

Fabric: Plain Interlock

Cam Setting Arrangement

Interlock structure

35

Needle Arrangement
H

H
L

1. 1

L
1

N.B:
= Knit cam
H = High butt needle
L = Low butt needle
1=
One
2 = Two butt needle

Single Lacoste:
Cam Setup:

butt

= Miss cam
C = Cylinder
D = Dial
needle

K K K T K
K T K K K

Knit cam (K)

Tuck (T) cam
Double Lacoste:
Cam Setup:
T T K K K
K K K T T
Pique:
Cam Setup:

T T K K
K K T T

36

Some samples are given in below:

Name of the fabric

Sample

1. single jersey ( cotton):

Face side shows Waless wise straight
lines, on the other hand, backside shows
course wise wavy lines
2. single jersey slub

3. F.F. lycra Single jersey

4. Single jersey stripe

5. Single Lacoste

6. 1 1 Rib:

Both sides of the fabric look similar

7. 2 1 Rib

8. 2 2 Rib

9. Interlock:

Both sides are of similar look but less

stretchable than rib
10. Interlock stripe:

11. pique:

Face side looks like honeycomb and

backside shows wales wise straight
lines
12. Fleece

13. Fleece (Terry)

14. Thermal

37

Methods of increasing production:

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased
By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be
increased but it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this
high speed.
By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of
courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
By using m/c of higher gauge:
The more the m/c gauge, the more the production is. So by using m/c of higher gauge
production can be increased.

By imposing other developments:

a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn
damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
d) Using auto lint removal.

Production calculation:
Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:

RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL(mm)

3527.80 Yarn count

Production/shift in meter:

Fabric width in meter:

Total no. of wales
Wales / cm 100
Total no. of Needles used in knitting

Wales / cm 100

38

GMS Calculation:
CPI WPI Stitch Length (mm) 0.91
Yarn Count
CPI= Course Per Inch
WPI= Wells Per Inch
Some points are needed to maintain for high quality fabric:

M/cs are separated from m/c to m/c by using poly bag or fabric.

Knitting floor should be cleaned for high quality fabric

Operator should be skilled.

Good quality fabric depends on good quality yarn.

Before production m/c is oiled and greased properly

G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions must be controlled.

Grey Fabrics are checked by 4- point system

Changing of GSM:

Major control by QAP pulley.

Minor control by stitch length adjustment.

Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley
moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse
direction G.S.M will increase.

Other m/c in Knitting Section:

01. Gray Inspection M/c, Brand : UZU fabric inspection m/c
02. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight.
03. Electric Balance for GSM check.
Production Parameter:
M/c Diameter;
M/c rpm (revolution per minute);
No. of feeds or feeders in use;
M/c Gauge;
Count of yarn;
Required time (M/C running time);
M/c running efficiency

39

Relationship between knitting parameter:

Stitch length GSM
If stitch length fabric width
If m/c gauge

fabric width

If yarn count fabric width

If shrinkage then fabric width GSM and Wales per inch.
For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.

Effect of stitch length on color depth:

If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of
fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is
adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller
Factors that should be change in case of fabric design on quality change:
a) Cam setting
b) Set of needle
c) Size of loop shape

Faults &Remedies of knitting fabrics

Knitting faults:
Faults in circular knitting production can be caused in various ways and quite a few of
them cannot be related to just one cause. The following explanations are expected to be
helpful in trying to locate the causes of these faults easier.
Reasons of fabric faults:
- yarn manufacturing faults
- fabric manufacturing faults
- Fabric processing faults dyeing, printing, finishing faults.
Sources of fabric faults:
The sources of faults could be (in circular knitting m/c, 80% faults comes from yarn)
- Faults in yarn and the yarn package.
- Yarn feeding and yarn feed regulator.
- M/c setting and pattern defects
- M/c maintenance
- Climatic conditions in the knitting plant.

40

Fabric faults:
Knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are often
superimposed. The most common faults are:
- broken ends , holes or cracks
- drop stitch
- cloth fall out or pressed off stitches
- snagging or snags
- tuck or double loop or stitches
- Bunching up
- Vertical stripes
- Horizontal stripes
- Color fly or colored tinges
- Distorted stitches tinges
- Distorted stitches or deformed or titled loops
1. Holes:
Holes are the result of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation the yarn had
already broken in the region of the needle hook. Depending on the knitted structure, yarn
count, m/c gauge and course density, the holes has different sizes. This size can therefore
only be estimated if the comparable final appearance of a comparable fabric is known.
Possible causes:
yarn parameters
high yarn irregularity
Incorrect yarn input tension setting; yarn running-in tension is too high.
poorly lubricated yarns
weak places in yarn, which break during stitch formation
knots, slubs etc
yarn is too high

if the yarn is trappet between the cheek taper and closing latch
- Yarn damage
tool small stitches
- Difficulty in casting off of the stitches
Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct yarn feeder badly set; defective
knitting elements.

2. Drop stitches:
These are the result of a defective needle. They also occur when a yarn is not properly fed
during stitch formation, i.e. not properly laid in the needle hooks. These are the unlinked
knitted loops.
Possible causes:
inaccurate insertion of the yarn into the needle hooks;
Broken needle hook.
Due to high yarn twist and low fabric take down tension the knitted loop could fall
out of the hook;
Improper setting of the yarn feed angle i.e. badly set yarn feeder
The yarn is not caught by the needle hook, example lower yarn feeder and high yarn
vibrations.

41

a.
b.
c.
d.

Yarn feeder wrongly threaded in.

Dial loop length nit properly related to cylinder loop length; the loop jumps out of the
needle hook.
Bad take up.
Very dry material.
Insufficient yarn tension.

3. Cloth fall-out or pressed-off stitches:

It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying side by side. They can occur either when
a yarn is laid-out or when it breaks without any immediate connection. Cloth fall-out can
occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn
feeder and removes the yarn out of the hooks of the following needles.
Possible causes:
Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder.
Yarn package winding faults, poor package build up.
Fibre fly block the yarn guides, feeders etc.
4. Needle marks or vertical stripes:
Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The space between
adjacent wales is irregular and the closed appearance of the fabric is broken up in an
unsightly manner. Vertical stripes and gaps in the fabric are often the result of a meager
setting, i.e. the yarn count selected. Needles are bent, damaged, do not move uniformly
smooth, come from different suppliers or are differently constructed.
Possible causes:
Twisted or bent needle hooks.
Stiff latches and needles.
Incorrect closing of the hook by the latch.
Heavily running needles.
Damaged needle latch and needle hooks.
Damaged dial and cylinder.
Damages on other knitting elements.
5. Sinker Mark
Causes:
When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new
loop as a result sinker mark comes.
If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
Sinker should be changed.
6. Star Mark
Causes:
Yarn tension variation during production.
Buckling of the needle latch.
Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
Use good conditioned needles

42

7. Oil stain
Causes:
When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a
line.
Remedies:
Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
8. Pin hole
Causes:
Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
Change the needle
9. Bairre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width
wise) stripe(s).
Causes:
This fault comes from yarn fault.
If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded
yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
We can use this fabric in white color.
10. Fly:
Causes:
In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due
to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric
surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
By cleaning the floor continuously.
By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
11. Yarn contamination
Causes:
If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
Fault less spinning.

43

Yarn Faults:

Neps.
Slubs.
Yarn count.
Thick/Thin place in yarn.
Hairiness.

Remark:
The Montex Fabrics Ltd.produce best quality fabric. They use best quality yarn to
produce fabric the worker are very conceous to the parameter of knitting.

Comparison between different fabrics :( s/j, Fleece, Terry)

44

Comparison between different fabrics:( Interlock, Rib, Inter- Rib)

Source: FALMAC Pronitt Series

45

46

Batching:
Batching preparation is the process where visually inspected grey fabrics
are divided into deferent batches with reasonable quantity in order to make them
suitable for the further operation.
Function or purpose of batch section:
- To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
- To perform the grey inspection.
- Turn the grey fabric if require.
- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following
criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
M/C capacity
M/C available
Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)
Other
- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
- To keep records for every fabrics before dying.
Proper batching criteria:
- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage
time.
- To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade.
- To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

47

Process sequence of batch preparation:

Process sequence of batch preparation receive batch card from grey in-charge

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

Take one specific batch card

Read the batch card for own understanding

Check the availability of fabric

Take required quantity of body fabric from ware house

Make required mp, of rope maintaining equal length

Take collar/ cuff as per size, keep the total weight

Distribute the collar/ cuff or rib in each rope equally ensure equal length

Stitch the fabric

Write down the weight against roll no, in the back side of the batch card

Write the total weight in batch card

Put signature and date

Fill up the production report form

48

M/Cs in batch section:

M/c no
Machine Name
Origin
Capacity

: 01
: Turning m/c
: Local
: 10 ton to 16 ton per day

Inspection m/c:
No. of m/c: two (2)
M/c name
Brand Name
Origin
Capacity

: Inspection m/c
:
: Local
:

Common Knitting faults:

0. Barren or stripe.
1. Press off.
2. Miss stitch / drop stitch.
3. Needle mark.
4. Sinker mark.
5. Oil stain.
6. Crease mark/ edge mark.
7. Holes.
8. Excessive slubs and entanglement in the fabric.
9. Spatiality.
10.Broken needle.
11.Pin hole.
12.Tight course.
13.Missing yarn.
14.Fine yarn.
15.Coarse yarn.
16.Colored fly or soiled fly etc.

49

50

Final lab
Lab dip:
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying
dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of DATA COLOR
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the
dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task
before bulk production.
Organogram
Manager
Lab In-charge
Supervisor
Senior technician
Technician
Operator
Helper

Duties & Responsibilities of Production manager:

To collect order sheet from merchandiser
To talk with knitting master for necessary m/c set up
To collect the production accessories for production
To discuss with AGM about overall production if necessary
Any other assignment given by the authority.

Working Sequence of lab dyeing:

Sample In (Fabrics)
Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar
Sample Preparation

51

Run the test

Physical test

Wet lab

Color Fastness to wash

Bursting strength
Pilling
Crocking

Color Fastness to washing

Evaluate the sample

Pre-production Sample

Report Making

Final sample

Test

Test

Prepared the report

Pass
Deliver

prepared the report

Fail
Refinish

Pass

Need to test again

Fail

Pass

Go for the final

Fail
Refinish

Need to test again

Dimensional stability.
Prepare the sample
Wash the sample according to buyer method.
Tumble dry
Keep the sample flat in the conditioned temperature
at least four hours before, after measurement.
Measure the sample
Prepared the report

Pass

Fail

Ready to delivery Refinish

Need to test again

52

Dyeing m/c
Basin

Power

Table

Sample
dyeing
m/c

Space for
Preparation

Washi
ng m/c

Tumbl
e
dryer
Digital
printin
g m/c
Digital
balance

Washing
m/c

Dryer

Twist
tester m/c

Dyeing
m/c

Washing m/c

Perspiration
tester

Pilling
tester

Digital
Rubbing

Manual
rubbing

Table

Dia
m/c

Gray
scale

Iron
Test m/c

Hardness
Tester

Dark
room

Digital
PH meter

Count
tester m/c

Visual
rubbing

Wash room

PH tester

ta color
chine

Lab manager table

Light fastness m/c

Light fastness room

53

M/c Speciation:
LABORATORY

MACHINERIES

WITH

ITS

SPECIFICATION:

1. M/c type: Dryer

M/c name: Rapid Dryer
Brand name: Rapid Dysin
Country: China

2. M/c type: washing

M/c name: wascatar
Brand name: SDL Atlas
Country: China

3. M/c type: washing

M/c name: wascatar
Brand name: SDL Atlas
Country: China

4. M/c type: Dryer

M/c name: Trumble Dryer
Country: China

54

5. M/c type:Dyeing m/c

Brand name: STARLET
Country: China

6. M/c type:Dyeing m/c

Brand name: STARLET
Country: China

7. M/c type:Dyeing m/c

Brand name: STARLET
Country: China

8. M/c type:Dyeing m/c

Brand name: Ossilator
Country: Taiwan

55

9. M/c type:Dyeing m/c

Brand name: Ossilator
Country: Taiwan

10. M/c type: Dyeing m/c

Brand name: Rapid Dyeing m/c
Country: China

11. M/c type: Dyeing m/c

Brand name: Rapid Dyeing m/c
Country: China

12. M/c type: Dyeing m/c

Brand name: Rapid Dyeing m/c
Country: China

56

13. M/c type: BALANCE

Country: China

14. M/c type: Pipet

M/c name: Digital Pipet
Country: koria

15. M/c type: Dryer

M/c name: Rapid Dryer
Brand name: Rapid Dysin
Country: China

16. M/c type: Pilling test m/c

Brand name: Paramount
Country: Koria

57

17. M/c type: Pilling Light Source

Brand name: Paramount
Country: Koria

18. M/c type:Prespiration test m/c

Brand name: Paramount
Country: Koria

19. M/c type:Twits tester m/c

Country: China

20. M/c type: Count tester m/c

Country: China

58

21. M/c type: Rubbing test m/c

Brand name: digital
Country: China

23. m/c type: PH meter

Country: Koria

22. M/c type: Rubbing test m/c

Brand name:
Country: China

59

24. M/c type: computer + spectrophotometer

25. M/c type: light fastness m/c

Brand name: Q.Sun
Country: Koria / japan

60

Raw material
Available Stock Solutions:
Red 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
Yellow 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common)
Blue - 0.1%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0% (very common).
Preparation:
To prepare 0.1% Stock solution, it is necessary to mix 0.1 g dye and 100 cc water.
To prepare 0.5% Stock solution, 0.5 g dye stuff is mixed with 100 cc water.
To prepare 1.0% & 2.0% Stock solution similar procedure is followed.
To prepare 10% Stock solution of Soda ash, 10 g Soda is mixed with 100 cc water.
Depth of shade:
Montex Fabrics Ltd. Produces 0.1% to 5% shade for the goods.
2.0%for deep shade.
1.0%for medium shade.
0.5%for deep shade.
0.1%for light shade.
Montex Fabrics Ltd. produces 0.5% to 5% shade for the goods.
Amount of salt soda for Remazol dyes
Percent
0-0.1
.1-0.5
.5-1.0
1.0-2.0
2.0-3.0
Salt
20
20-25
25-40
40-50
50-60
Soda
5
5-7
7-10
10-13
13-15

3.0-5.0
60-80
15-20

>5.0
80+
20+

Calculation:
Usually following calculations are followed

Recipe % Sample Weight

Dye Solution =

(cc).
Stock solution %

Recipe % Liquor)
Salt

(gram per liter).

1000

Recipe % 100 Liquor)

Soda Solution

(cc).
(1000Stock solution %)

61

Sample calculation for 0.5% shade

Sample wt. = 5 mg
Material liquor ratio = 1: 10
Total liquor (5 10) = 50 cc
5 0.5%
Dye solution required =
1%

= 2.5 cc

50 25
Salt solution required

20 10

= 6.25 cc

50 10
Soda ash solution required =

20 10

= 2.5 cc

Water required {50 - (2.5 + 6.25 + 2.5)} = 38.75 cc

Sequence of dyeing 100% cotton fabric in lab:

Select bleach fabric ( 5 gm)
Recipe making
Select dyes
Dyeing
Hot wash
Neutralization
Soaping
Cold wash
Drying
Match with standard sample
Yes
Bulk production

62

Sequence of dyeing polyester /cotton fabric in lab:

Select bleach fabric (5 gm)
Carbonizing of cotton part
Fabric weight measure after carbonized part
Recipe making
Select dyes
Dyeing of polyester part
Matching dyed polyester part with std.
Yes
Hot wash
Reduction clearing
Soaping
Neutralization
Cold wash
Dyeing of cotton part
Hot wash
Soaping
Neutralization
Cold wash
Drying
Total sample match with standard sample
Yes
Bulk production
Note: cellouse fibre dissolves in 70% H2SO4 acid solution when treated at 700c for 10

63

Quality management system:

Q.C

On-line

Off-line

Online tests are:

1. For Pretreatment test
Absorbency test
Fabric width measure
Weightness test
Water quality test
PH test
2. For dyeing

Dyed fabric.
Shade matching check
PH check
Wash fastness check
3. Machine check

Off-line tests are

1. Physical test
GSM of fabric
Smoothness of fabric
Pilling test
Shrinkage test
Spirality test
2. chemical test
Color fastness

64

Dying with sample

Recipe
16-0435 Tex
Yellow 4 GL=0.8%
Yellow MERL=0.76%
T/Blue-HFG=0.088%
40/10
Orange
Orange ME2RL=1.5%
Yellow MERL=0.75%
Black B=0.0026%
50/12
Red
Orange MERL=2.3%
Red 4GL=3%
Black B =0.022%
70/17
Green
Yellow-4GL=6.4%
YellowMERL=0.36%
T/BlueETQ=4.8%
80/20
Yellow
YellowRR=2.6%
Blue KHL=0.012%
32/8

Sample

Black
yellow MERL=1.5%
Red 4BL=1.1%
Black-Agr=5.2%
80/20

Khak-1
Yellow-RR=0.76%
Red-RR=0.26%
Nevy-RR=0.46%
40/10
Turqis
Yellow-RR=0.17%
Red-RR=0.038%
Yellow-RR=0.6%

65

LAB DIP DEVELOPMENT

DEFINITION:
Lab Dip Development means the sample which is dyed according to buyers
requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample
dyeing and bulk production is dyeing planning done.

OBJECTIVE OF LAB DIP:

The main objectives in lab are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.

To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.
To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
Finally approved lab dip (Grade:ABC)

DEVELOPMENT OF LAB DIP:

Receiving standard swatch

Spectrophotometer reading

Recipe start up software

Start up recipe given

Manual dispersion (pipatting)

Pot dyeing

Unload

Normal wash

Acid wash

Hot wash

Cold Rinsing

Drying

66

Instrumental Color matching Process

Spectrophotometer flow Chart:
Triangle shade

Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM

Or calculated by smart shade library

Input database
History of the lab

Initial recipe

Laboratory dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to match

Recipe correction

Not matched

OK

Production dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to match

Production correction

Not matched

OK
Finished
Spectrophotometric measurent
Colour fastness is usually assessed separately with respect to:
It is an alternative to the visual method of assessment by Grey Scale. The
colour of the specimen which has been subjected to the colour fastness test
and the colour of an original specimen are measured instrumentally by
spectrophotometric measurement.

The CIE LAB coordinates for lightness L*, chroma C* and hue H* for both
specimens are measured.

67

The total colour difference value AE* which is the function of AL *, AC*, AH
* are calculated and converted to a Grey, Scale by means of a series of
equations or by the following table

Table for Grey Scale Colour Change Step Values according to AATCC Evaluation
Procedure 7

Colour fastness is a term that describes the propensity of an article to

Change or lose colour when treated in a certain way

Functions of spectrophotometer:
1. Color difference
2. Metamerism
3. Pass/fail operation
4. Fastness rating
5. Shade library
6. Cost comparison
7. Color match production
8. Reflectance curve.

COLOUR MEASUREMENT OF STANDARD SAMPLE:

Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as
possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard sample with the
standard one is compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods-

68

Color Measurement

Manual Method

Instrumental Method

In manual method, the std. samples color is measured by comparing it with

previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample
with which the color of the std. matched, that sample color recipe is being taken for
shade matching. This methods accuracy completely depends on the vision of the
person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color
matching.
The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of
color measurement. Spectrophotometer interfaced with a PC is used for shade
matching. This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of
light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under
spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic
colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement
of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.

Common test which are tested in Montex Fabric Ltd. Lab:

Adjacent Fabrics
Single fibre adjacent fabric It should be plain weave, medium mass per unit area and free from dyes or
fluorescent whitening agents.
Generally two single fibre adjacent fabrics are attached to specimen. The first
of fabric shall be of the same kind of fibre as the material under test and the
second shall be that indicated or as otherwise stated.

69

Multifibre adjacent fabrics

Assessment of Colourfastness and Staining

The result of colourfastness test is rated by Visually comparing the difference in colour or contrast between the untreated
and treated specimens with the differences represented by the scale. Gray scle
for Colour change is being used for colour change assessment.
Visually comparing the difference in colour or the contrast between the
stained and unstained adjacent fabrics with the differences represented by
scale. Gray sacle for staining is being used for staining assessment.
The evaluation is done under specific lighting and viewing conditions.

70

Conditions of Viewing

The source under which the comparison is made can beD65 - daylight
(Preferred in European market)
D75 - daylight (Preferred in American Market)
A - Incandescent
CWF - Cool white fluorescent
UV - Ultra Violet
The specimen should be placed on a flat, uniform surface having no
distortions.The surrounding field shall me matte surface and uniform grey.

Dark Room

71

ASSESSING COLOUR FASTNESS

Conditions of viewing
The specimen plane is at 45 angle to horizontal. The light is incident upon the
surfaces at an angle of approximately 45, and the direction of viewing is
approximately along the perpendicular to the plane of the surfaces.
For assessment, a piece of the original and the tested specimen, or the undyed
and stained adjacent fabrics, are arranged side by side in the same plane and
oriented in the same direction.
If test specimen is thin then it should be backed with number of layers of clean
test cloth so as to avoid effect of other backing.
For optimum precision, the areas of contrast to be compared shall be
approximately of same size and shape; if necessary; this can be achieved by
the use of mask of neutral grey color.

Colour fastness to Washing

Evaluates the colorfastness to Laundering of textiles which are expected to withstand
frequent or accelerated laundering.
Equipment: Launder meter

72

73

Conditions of Viewing

Interpretation of the grades

The end result of any colorfastness test is a grade given to the tested sample
Grade 5- NO CHANGE
Grade 4 - SLIGHT CHANGE
Grade 3 - NOTICEABLE CHANGE
Grade 2 - CONSIDERABLE CHANGE
Grade 1 - SEVERE CHANGE

Failures and improvements

Colour fastness to washing:
WHY FAILURE?
The dyes are not fixed well.
Improper quality dyes used.
Bad dyeing / Bad printing.
Improper finishing / improper curing.

74

HOW TO IMPROVE?
Better selection of dyestuffs and dye methods and process controls are
suggested to enhance the colorfastness performance. Color-stripping
and re-dying may be required.
Remark: The above recommendation is not to be used when fabric is yarn dyed.

Color fastness to rubbing

Why Should We Test?
To determine the resistance of tested sample to rubbing
.
This determines the quality of dying or printing including the quality of
colourant used and the quality of process involved in producing the coloured
textile/textile end product.
Apparatus - Crock meter

75

Assessment of color staining of the rubbing cloth after wet rubbing.

76

The scale with fastness grades 1 to 3 of the nine step scale is applied.

Failures and improvements

WHY FAILURE?
The dye particles sticking on the surface of fabric causes staining to
White fabric when it is rubbed.
Sulphur, Pigment and Indigo have POOR Rubbing fastness.
Bad dyeing / Bad printing / Bad fixing.
Improper finishing / improper curing.

HOW TO IMPROVE?
A good and thorough SOAPING will remove the undyed particles and
improve the Rubbing fastness.
Good dye & dye fixing to be used
Better selection of dyestuff with necessary certification from dye
manufacturer.
In case of Pigment prints good curing.

77

Color fastness to Perspiration

This test is used to determine the fastness of colored textiles to the effects of
perspiration. It is applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns
& fabrics of all kinds and to the testing of dyestuffs as applied to textiles.

Apparatus and Materials

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Perspirometer
Balance with weighing accuracy of +1- 0.001 g
Drying oven
pH meter
Volumetric flask
Petridish
Multifibre test fabric
Gray scale for staining and colour change

ISO Persiciration Solution Chemicals

Acidic (per litre)
O.5g histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate
5g sodium chloride
2.2g sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate
Required pH 5.5
Alkaline (per litre)
O.5g histidine monohydrochloride
monohydrate
5g sodium chloride
2.5g disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate
Required pH 8

Apparatus

78

Color fastness to Light

Principle:
A specimen of the textile to be tested is exposed to artificial light under
prescribed conditions, along with agreed standards (blue wool reference).
The colourfastness is being assessed by comparison of the colour change of the
exposed portion to the masked control portion of the test specimen using gray scale or
blue references used.
Machine and Material
Air Cooled type Machine

Blue Wool Standard

Standard Reference Materials

ISO Blue wool reference standards
Blue wool reference developed and produced in Europe are identified by the numerical
designation 1 to 8. They range from 1 (very low colour fastness) to 8 (very high fastness)
so that each higher-numbered reference is approximately twice as fast as the preceding
one

79

Pilling Test
Pilling is a process of formation of pill because of entanglement of surface
fibres during wear. The propensity of pilling is determined by the rates of following
parallel processes:
- Fibre entanglement leading to pill formation;
- Development of more surface fibre;
- Fibre and pill wear off.

Fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and pilling is determined by:

- Martindale Method
- Pill box method
- Random tumble method

80

ICI Pill Box

Pilling - Visual assessment

5 - No Visual Change
4 - Slight surface fuzzing and! or partially formed pills.
3 - Moderate surface fuzzing/or moderate pilling. Pills
of varying size and density partially covering the
specimen
2 - Distinct surface fuzzing and/ or distinct pilling.Pills
of varying size and density covering a large proportion
of specimen.
1 - Dense surface fuzzing and / or severe pilling.Pills of
varying size and density covering the whole of the
specimen

Failures and improvements

WHY FAILURE?
Inferior yarn with less staple fibers (Carded) are used in the fabric
construction.
Use of synthetic fibers with natural fibers may induce static energy which can
cause pilling.
HOW TO IMPROVE?
Selection of good combed yarns is very much essential in preventing pilling.
Use of Antipilling/ Enzyme treatments may reduce pilling to
lncase of SyntheUc and natural fibers, may use any antistatic finishes.

81

Dimensional Stability to Washing

Manufacturers concerns are with residual shrinkage and relaxation shrinkage.
Residual shrinkage is what takes place over a period of time from laundering and
care.
Relaxation shrinkage occurs when the strained yarns relax after the stress placed on
them is released. When washing these goods the fabric tension is relaxed and they
come to relaxed state.
This test method is intended for the determination of dimensional changes in woven
& knit fabrics / garments, when subjected to repeated automatic laundering
procedures commonly used at home.
The dimensional changes of textile specimen subjected to washing are measured
using pair of bench marks applied to the fabric before washing.

Apparatus

Front Loading Washing Machine

Drying Methods
Line dry - Specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric length in
vertical direction.
Drip dry - Dripping wet specimen is hanged by two corners with the fabric
length in vertical direction.
Flat dry - Specimen is dried by spreading on a horizontal screen or perforated
surface removing wrinkles without stretching and distorting it.
Tumble dry
- ISO dryer: Auto reversing action

82

Sample Marking:
Iso

Calculation

Wash and dry the sample 3 times for AATCC and once for ISO as per the
procedure explained earlier.
Condition the sample. After conditioning lay each test specimen without
tension on a flat smooth horizontal surface. Measure and record distance
between each pair of benchmarks.
Calculate the difference between the before wash and after wash measures and
report in %.

DC%= 100(B-A)/A
DC = Dimensional Change
A = Original Dimension
B = Dimension after Laundering
Shrinkage is denoted as -which is decrease in dimensions Elongation is denoted as
+which is increase in dimensions.

Failures and improvements

Dimensional Stability to washing:
WHY FAILURE?
During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and the various finishing
processes. yarns and cloth are under a continuous tension.
Yarns and/or fabrics are not fixed materials. They consist of separate,
stretchable fibers which submit to the tension. In other words, fabrics do
stretch in length and width.
The tension within the yarns is eliminated when friction occurs during
laundering where both water and soap act as a lubricant.
The lubricant, along with the mechanical action of the washer, helps the fibers
relax and contract to their original length before the elongation takes place.

83

This means that the fabric shrinks.

HOW TO IMPROVE?
A mechanical means of reducing the shrinkage (compacting, overfeeding,
Sanforising) is suggested.

84

85

Dyeing
The process by which a textile material is changed physically or chemically so
that it looks colorful is called dyeing

The dyeing theory of dyeing

Dyeing is the process of coloring textile materials by immersing them in an
aqueous solution of dye, called dye liquor. Normally the dye liquor consists of dye,
water and auxiliary. To improve the effectiveness of dyeing, heat is applied to the
liquour.
Dyeing theory covers a wide range of subjects mainly in the area of physical
chemistry. As for all theory, the aim is to provide a set of hypotheses that explain the
behavior of known dyeing systems, and which are capable of predicting what will
happen in a new situation. Dyeing theory has many qualitative aspects that are useful
in explaining practical dyeing, but the physic-chemical measurements on dyeing
processes that provide quantitative data are often far removed from actual dyeing
practice. Some of the subjects included in dyeing theory are:
The state of dyes in solution and in the fiber during and after dyeing.
The rates of dyeing processes and how these are influenced by mass-transfer
of dye from the bath solution to the dyefiber interface, and by diffusion of
the dye from the interface into the fiber.
The phenomena occurring at the dyefiber interface such as dye molecule
adsorption and the effects of surface potentials.
The nature of the interactions between dye and fiber molecules, which are the
origin of substantively.
The treatment of dyeing as a thermodynamic equilibrium and its description in
terms of thermodynamic variables.
The theory of fiber structure and how this influences dyeing rates and
equilibrium.
Many of these subjects are discussed briefly, and qualitatively, in other chapters of
this book. This present chapter will introduce some of the more quantitative aspects of
dyeing equilibrium and kinetics.
The general theory dyeing explains the interaction between bye, fiber , water and dye
auxiliary. It explainsForce of repulsion: which are developed between the dye molecules & water.
Forces of attraction: which are developed between the dye molecules &
fiber?
The forces are responsible for the dye molecules leaving the aqueous dye liquor and
entering & attaching themselves to the polymers of the fiber. First one is performed
by the forces of repulsion & the second is performed by forces of attraction.

86

Successive stage in the dyeing:

Dye dispersed in the dye bath
(convective diffusion)
Dye in the diffusion layer
molecular diffusion)
Dye in the electrical double layer
( absorption)
Dye absorbed on the fibre surface
( duffusion)
Dye diffused in the fibre dye physically or chemically bond in the fiber
(fixation)
wet processing technology -1 md. Moshiour rahman

Chromophores: the name is derived from the Greek chroma = color and phore from
protein = to bear. The group that causes the appearance of color when introduced into
a chromogen and causes one or more absorption brands to appear in the visible
spectrum to mixture on by UV rays.

Chromophores are unsaturated organic radicals.

Their specific state of unsaturation enables them to absorb and reflect incident
electromagnetic radiation with in the very narrow band of visible light.
The chromophores give the dye molecules its particular color.
A molecule processing mo chromophores would be colorless.
Example of dyes: direct dye, acid dye, vat dye, basic, disperse, sulpher, reactive dye
etc.
Auxo chromes: the name is derived from the Greek auxein = to increase and chroma
= color. Auxochromes are organic radicals. The group present in dye except
chromophore grou is called auxo- chromes.
Goals of dyeing:
Shade with in tolerance limit.
Perfect leveling.
No crease mark
Fastness properties according to requirement.
Electrolytes:
Since the dye molecule and textile mtls, both become slightly negatively charged in
acqueous solution, there is a tendency for the dye and the fibre to repel each.
Sufficient energy has to be built up to overcome this repulsive force in dye liquor and
allow the dye and textile mtls to be attracted to one another so that the dye molecules
can emter the polymer system of the fibre. The addition of an electrolyte to the liquor
increases the uptake of the dye by the fibre.

87

Dye selection depends:

Factors to be considered for dye and dyeing process selects:
1. Hue: Hue means the name of color i.e. blue, green, and pink. The hue is of
great importance. Usually a mixture of hue is required to produce the desired
shade.
2. Shade: The meaning of shade is concentration. Usually the depth of tone of
color is shade, for this greater dye exists in fibre. So cost of dyeing is much. If
too much depth of shade affect on fastness properties or dyeing.
Example:
3. Brightness: It expresses how bright or unbright the object is some dye is
naturally bright i.e. basic dye and some dye is dull shade.
4. Cost: We have to motice to csot during the selection of dueing procedure.
Some dyes are cheap e.g. acid dye and some dyes are very costly e.g. reactive
dye, vat dye.
5. Fastness required: Resistance of mtl. To change in any of its color
characterstics.
6. Environmental pollution: The dyes are applied so that it does not pollute
environment.
7. Condition of application: Pigment dye is applied in continuous m/c which
application method facilities. But we have discontinuous m/c.
8. Availability: Dye must be available in dyeing factory.

Terms and definition of dyeing

1. Shade:
Depth of color %
Light shade- 0.5% own
Mediums shade- 1.5
Deep shde 1.5 or 1.6 and above
For deep shade, fastness properties of dye, increase and decreased of washing
fastness.
2. Substantively: substantivity means the rate of dye transfer from the dye sol to the
textile mtls and also the distribution of dye molecules in the textile mtls.
Substantivity is caused for different types of attraction between dye molecules
and textile mtl molecules.
3. Affinity: the attraction of dyes to the textile mtls is called affinity. It is related to
heat or temperature. Dyeing is performed for the affinity of dye and fibre. Dyeing
affinity very with the temp.

4. Color strike: initial exhaustion on the fibre in a dye bath is called color strike. All
the starting of dyeing, the rate of transfer of dye from the dye sol to the textile
mtls is more than any other time. About 30 seconds 50% of dyeing is completed.
5. Exhaustion: when three process complete (ad sorption, sorption, desorption) then
total dye molecules enters fibre then it is called exhaustion.

88

Or the difference between the total dye molecules in the dye sol and the rest of the
molecules in the dye sol after dyeing is called exhaustion.
Let initial dye bath concentration = IDC
Dye bath concentration after dyeing = FDC
IDC FDC
Exhaustion % =
100
IDC

Dyestuff
Reactive
Disperses
Direct
Sulpher

Exhaustion%

6. Adsorption: when dye molecules come to the surface of the fibre, it is called
adsorption.
7. Sorption: when dye molecule enters into fibre then it is called sorption.
8. desorption: the process by which the dye molecules come out from the inner side
of the textile mtls in particular conditions (such as mil, time , temple) is called
desorption.
Sorption
Adsorption
0
0
0

Desorption
0

Souring:
The treatment / the process by which the fabric, after processing with alkali or
scouring, is treated with Hydrochloric acid or dilute H2SO4 for removing alkali or
neutralization of alkali is scouring.

Types of dyeing m/c:

High pressure Winch dyeing m/c
Beam dyeing m/c
Jigger dyeing m/c
Jet dyeing m/c

89

Description of winch dyeing m/c (for knit dyeing):

Winch dyeing
The winch or beck dyeing machine is quite simple and serves for all scouring,
bleaching, dyeing, washing-off and softening processes.
The machine contains a length of fabric with the ends sewn together, which is
compressed to form a continuous rope. This rope passes from the dye bath over two
elevated reels and then falls back into the bath

Illustration of a winch dyeing machine with Autoloda

The first roller is free-running (jockey or fly roller).
The second (winch reel) is driven and controls the rate of rope transport and the
extent of pleating where the rope accumulates below and behind the winch. Both reels
extend the full length of the machine and accommodate several fabric ropes running
side by side. The fabric rope is held on the winch by Autolodfriction and its own
weight.
Covering the winch with polypropylene or polyester tape increases the friction.
Deep-draught winches have circular or only slightly elliptical winch reels and the
fabric falls into the back of the dyebath with little pleating. This type of winch is
preferred when fabric stretching may occur
The bottom of the machine slopes from back to front so that the fabric accumulating
behind the winch easily moves forward. Tubular knitted fabrics, with a compact
construction, tend to form a balloon filled with air just below the jockey roll. This
is desirable since crease locations change with each cycle. An elevated driven roller at
the front of the machine is used to load and unload the goods.
A perforated baffle separates the liquor in the front of the machine from the
remainder. This part of the machine is called the salting box. Both dyes and
chemicals are added to it during dyeing and gradually mix into the remainder of the
solution.
All additions must be made across the full length of the machine with stirring.

90

Heating is by steam injection from a perforated pipe running along the length of the
salting box. Careful design is necessary to ensure that steam condenses before
reaching the liquor surface. Direct steam injection causes some bath dilution and can
be quite noisy when steam bubbles collapse explosively on rapid cooling, or when
they strike the walls. The machine is preferably closed to avoid steam and heat losses,
particularly when dyeing at or near the boiling point.
The problem of non-uniform temperature in the bath, caused by the cooled fabric
falling into the back of the bath, can be minimised by use of a pump to circulate the
bath solution. The liquor ratio is typically about 20:1.
During dyeing, the bulk of the fabric is moving slowly in the dyebath. The rate
of dyeing is partly `controlled by the rate of rope cycling and usually increases with
increasing winch speed. The winch is usually run quite fast but not at such a speed as
to damage to fabric, or promote its elongation or felting.
Several ropes of equal length (50100 m) are usually dyed side by side, being
kept apart by pegs in a long rail below the fly roller. The hinged peg rail lifts if a
tangled rope arrives, automatically turning off the winch drive. Short lengths of
bindividual ropes require more sewing and more time to locate the seams for
unloading. There is an obvious advantage if one long, continuous spiral of rope
advances through the machine from one side to the other. It then returns to thestart by
way of a sloping trough or tube filled with dye solution at the back of the machine. In
this case, a continuous helical metal spiral, whose pitch determines the loop spacing,
replaces the peg rail. This type of loading is more uniform and allows a lower liquorto-goods ratio.
Main parts of a Winch dyeing m/c:

91

92

Organogram:
AGM

Senior Manager

Manager
Production officer (shift 01)

Production officer (shift 02)

In-charge (per shift)

In-charge(per shift)

Supervisor (per shift)

Supervisor (per shift)

Senior operator (per shift

senior operator (per shift)

Operator (per m/c)

Operator (per m/c)

Helper (per m/c)

Helper (per m/c)

Working sequence of dyeing section:

Fabric receiving
Fabric inspection

Pre -process

Batching
Scouring
Bleaching

Pre-treatment

Enzyme (if required)

Dyeing
After treatment & Softening

93

Winch-8
Capacity -900kg
Winch-9
Capacity -1200kg
Winch-10
Capacity -600kg

Bangle squeezer

Store room

Winch-2
Capacity-50kg

Winch-11
Capacity -600kg

Winch-7
Capacity-120kg
Capacity-130kg

Winch-3
Capacity-450kg

Store room

Winch-1
Capacity-800kg

Winch-13
Capacity -600kg

dyeing
Winch-6

Sample dyeing

Winch-4
Capacity-900kg

Super visor

dyeing

Winch-5
Capacity-600kg

Bangle

Sample

Color matching cabinet

Store keeper

Slitting m/c

Manager table

94

Speciation of dyeing m\c:

a. Sample dyeing m/c specification:
b. Bulk dyeing m/c:

Bulk dyeing m/c:

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 01
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS12 HTECOFLOW
: 800 kg
: 3-5 bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 12H08002001006
: 2001

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 02
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS12 HTECOFLOW
: ``````````
kg
: 3-5 bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 12H08002001006
: 2001

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date
Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 03
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS11HT JUMBO GET FLOW
: 450 kg
: 3 bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 11H04502003044
: 2003
: 04
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS11HT JUMBO GET FLOW
: 900 kg
: 3 bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 11H09002003065
: 2003

95

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 05
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS11HT ECO FLOW
: 600 kg
: 3.5bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 12H06002000021
: 2004

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 06
: Bangle dyeing
: local
:
: 420 kg
: - bar (maxi.)
: 980c (maxi.)
: 1/10
:: 1993

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 07
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS11ST JUMBO
: 900 kg
: 2.5 bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 11H09002009025
: 2009

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 08
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: MMS11HT JUMBO
: 1200 kg
: 2.5bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 11H12002006109
: 2006

96

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 09
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS12A ATM ECOFLOW
: 500 kg
: - bar (maxi.)
: 980c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 12A06002001004
: 2001

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 10
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: DMS12A ATM ECOFLOW
: 600 kg
:- bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 12A06002001005
: 2001

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 11
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: O2A SOFT FLOW
: 375 kg
: bar (maxi.)
: 980c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 02A0375200001
: 2000

Machine no
Machine name
Country
M/c type
M/c capacity
Working pressure
Working temperature
Liquid ratio
M/c serial no
Production Date

: 12
: Dilmenler
: Turkiye
: MANMOOL
: 120 kg
: -bar (maxi.)
: 1350c (maxi.)
: 1/6
: 02A0375200001
: 1996

97

Sample m/c: 01

Sample m/c: 02

Sample m/c: 03

Sample m/c: 04

Raw material:
Source of fabrics:
Montex Fabrics ltd.
Alim knit fabric ltd.
Cotton club (BD) ltd.
Mondol knit wear ltd.
Dyes and chemicals (sheet)

Dyes chemical sheet present on inventory section in this report

General flow chart of dyeing section:

98

Grey fabric receive from knitting section

Batching
Select m/c no
Fabric loading
Select production program
Pre treatment
Select recipe for dyeing
Recipe confirm by D.M/S.P.O
Dyeing
After treatment
Unload

Pre treatment process: Scouring & bleaching

Scouring:
The team Scouring applies to the remove of impurities such as oil, wax, gum,
soluble impurities and solid dirt commonly found in textile material and produces a
hydrophilic and clean cloth.
The process consists essentially of treatment with alkali, with or without detergent.
When soap is used a good supply of water is essential.
The loom state cotton fabric contains about 8-12% natural impurities of total weight
of the fiber . These impurities mainly consists of waxes, proteins, pectic substances
and mineral matters. In addition to this, the mechanically held impurities called
'motes' are present containing seed-coat fragments, aborted seeds and leaves etc. that
clinge to the fiber . Apart from these, the loom-state fabric is also contaminated with
adventiteous oils such as machine oils, tars, greases etc.
Scouring is a purifying treatment of textiles. The objective of scouring is to reduce the
amount of impurities sufficiently to obtain level and reproducible results in dyeing
and finishing operations. Scouring agents can be generally classified into different
groups.

Objectives of Scouring
99

To remove natural impurities like oil, wax, fatty materials as well

as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character as
completely as possible.
To increase absorbency of textile material i.e. fabric.
To transfer the fabric hydrophobic to hydrophilic.
The scouring efficiency is mainly depends on maturity, fineness
and origin of cotton fiber s.

Scouring Agent

Alkalile Agents

Surfactants

NaOH, KOH,
Na2CO3,
Liquid NH 3 .
(Sodium metasilicate,
Sodium Silicate,
Sodium
phosphate, Trisodium
phosphate,
Tetrasodium
phosphate, Sodium
tripolyphosphate,
borax etc.)

Anionic activator,
Non-ionic
activator

Emulsion Scouring

Chlorine System
Carbontetrachloride,
Trichloroethylene,
Perchloroethylene,
Methylchloroform,
Trichloromethane,
Parameter ofFluorine.
dyeing:

Organic Solvent

Hydrocarbon System
Benzene,
Industrial
gasoline,
White spirit,
Solvent naptha.

Waxes present in the fabric cannot be removed in saponification. These are esters of
higher fatty alcohol & fatty acids similarly mineral oils, lubricants oil etc cannot be
converted into water soluble product by boiling with NaOH solution. The process of
emulsification is used in the scouring of cotton material containing non-saponifated
oil such product can be removed by emulsifier.
Thus the scouring solution should also contain an emulsifying agent in addition to
Sodium hydroxide and wetting agent ordinary soap (washing) is good emulsifying
agent.

100

Bleaching
Bleaching:
Bleaching of textile material is a chemical or commercial process which can be
defined as
Destruction of natural coloring matters to impart a pure permanent and basic white
effects suitable for the production of white finishes, level dyeing and desired printed
shade with the minimum or no tendering (degradation) or without diminishing the
tensile strength.

Object of Bleaching
Destruction of natural coloring matter from the fiber
To impart a pure permanent & basic white effect to the fiber
To obtain permanent white color of the fabric
To increase absorbency of textile material for dyeing printing etc.
Methods of Bleaching:
Bleaching in kier
Bleaching in j box

Bleaching Agents

Oxidation Bleaching Agents

Peroxide System

Chlorine System

Hydrogen peroxide
Sodium peroxide
Sodium perborate
Potassium permanganate
Peracetic acid

Bleaching powder
Sodium hypochlorite
Lithium hypochlorite
Sodium chlorite
Chloramine
Isocynual trichloride

Other peracids

Reductive Bleaching Agents

Sulphur dioxide
Sodium hydrosulphite
Sulphoxylates
Acidic sodium sulphite
Sodium bisulphites

101

Pretreatment
Process of SCOURING/ BLEACHING:
Machine filling with water
Chemical Dozing at 98 0C
Run time 30 min.
H2O2 Inject
Run time at 98 0C (90min)
Cooling at 80 0C
Hot wash at 98 0C (10min)
Rinse at 80 0C
Sample Check
.
H2O2 - Killer Dozing
Run time 10 min
Acid wash 20 min
Drain

Scouring and Bleaching of 100% cotton; light and critical

shade
Recipe: for demineralization
Detergent: 0.3g/l
Antifoaming
Demineralizer-0.75g/l
Recipe: for scouring & bleaching
Anticrease
Caustic soda
H2O2

102

Detergent Acetic acid (for neutralization)

980c
50
15
700c
600c
20
0
40 c 15

950c
H2O2 (4-5)

650c

750c

600c NaOH
400c
600c
pc (inorganic base neutralize
Drain Inject
drain
drain
Injection
Detergent- 0.3g/l
detergent
AntifoamingAnticrease
acid
Demineralizer-0.75g/l Antifoam (if required stabilizer)
.

The important parameters of the scouring process are as follows:

Concentration of caustic soda
Type and concentration of auxiliaries
Treatment temperature
Reaction time
A surfactant of optimal versatility to be used for preparation, and in particular for the
scouring and bleaching processes, ought to meet the following requirements:
It should have an excellent wetting ability within a wide temperature range
It should permit a good washing effect and have a high emulsifying power for
natural fats, waxes and oils
It should be resistant to oxidants and reducing agents
It should be resistant to water-hardening substances
It should be highly stable to alkalinity
It should be biodegradable and non-toxic
.
The important parameters for bleaching with hydrogen peroxide are as follows:
Concentration of hydrogen peroxide
Concentration of alkali
pH
Temperature
Time
Nature and quality of the goods
Water hardness and other impurities
Types and concentration of auxiliaries
Desired bleaching effect
Available equipment, and stabilizer system employed

103

Effect of pH on Bleaching Effectiveness, Fibre Degradation, and Peroxide

Stability in Bleaching Cotton Fibres
Initial pH

Final
pH

Whiteness

CUEN % Peroxide

Index Fluidity
Remaining

8.0

4.4

66.8

5.48

72.5

9.0

8.7

67.3

1.44

71.6

10.1

9.9

71.3

2.44

63.3

11.0

11.7

72.2

7.29

7.0

12.0

12.4

69.5

17.8

2.0

The most common problems in bleaching cotton with hydrogen peroxide are as
follows:
Inadequate mote removal
Low degree of whiteness
Uneven whiteness (or bleaching)
Pinholes, tears, broken yarns, catalytic damage, loss in strength
Resist marks
Formation of oxycellulose

Cotton fabric dyeing with reactive dyes

Reactive dye:
A reactive dye, according to a useful definition by Ryes and Zollinger, is a colored
compound which has a suitable group enable of forming a covalent bond between a
carbon atom of a hydroxy, an amino or a mercapto group respectively of the substrate.
They point out that this definition excludes mordant dyes and 1: 1 chromium azo dye
complexes, which are used in dyeing protein fibers, may form covalent bonds
between metal ion and nucleophilic groups of the fiber.

Popularity of Reactive dye

Ability to produce bright shades of wide range.
High leaving of quality.
Good washing fastness.
Good light fastness.
Again its dying process is fast and gives brighter shades. For the above reasons
reactive dyes are more popular.

104

Properties of reactive dye

Reactive dyes are found in powder, liquid and print paste from.
Reactive dyes are soluble in water.
They have very good light fastness with rating about 6.
Textile materials dyed with reactive dyes have very good wash fastness with
rating about 4-5, due to strong covalent bonds formed between fiber polymer
and reactive group of dye.
Reactive dyes give brighter shades and they have moderate rubbing fastness.
Dying method of reactive dye is easy. If requires less time and low
temperature for dyeing.
Reactive dyes are comparatively very cheap. Easy to apply.
Fixation occurs in alkaline condition.
Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness with rating 4-5.

Classification of reactive dyeing on the basis of application

1. Cold brand:
This type of dyes contains reactive groups of high reactivity. So dying can be
done in lower temperature ie. 32-60c. for ex: procion m, livafix e, are cold brand dyes.
2. Medium brand:
These types of dyes contain reactive groups of moderate reactivity. So dying is
done in higher temperature than that of cold brand dyes. I.e In between 60-71c
temperatures. For ex: remazol,livafix are medium brand dyes.
3. Hot brand:
This type of dyes contains reactive groups of least reactivity. So high
temperature is required for dying i.e. 72-93c temperature is required for dying. for
ex:procion h, cibacron are hot brand dyes.

105

106

107

Process control parameter

Control points

Standard

1. Joining polyester fabric in left most nozzle

: must

2. Cycle time (by watch)

: not above 2.5min

3. Reel speed

: 200-300

4. Pump pressure

: 0.6 for single/j, rib,

0.7 for fleece

5. Nozzle position

: as per table

6. Scouring liquor ratio

: 1: 8 1:10

7. Scouring white ness

(For light color)
8. Absorbency (by drop test)

: as compare to lab sample

9. Residual peroxide
(By peroxide strip)

:0

10. Glauber salt PH

(Before addition)

: 6.7-7

11. Enzyme bath:

i.
ii.
iii.

PH
Temperature
Time

12. Dye bath PH

: excellence

: 4.5-5.5
: 50-550c
: 50
: 6.5- 7.0

13 spot check before addition of soda (for torques color)

14. Fixation PH:
a. light color
b. dirk color
c. black color

: 10.3-10.5
:10.8-11.0
:11.2-11.4

15. Sample check after 20

16. Drop time and temperature

108

17. Soaping PH

: 6.5-7.0

18. Fixing bath PH

: 6.0

19. Softener PH

: 6.0-6.5

The amount of Glaubers salt and Soda ash on the basic shade
percentage

Shade %
0.0010 - 0.2
0.2 - 1
1 2.5
2.5 - 4
4-8
Above 8

Glaubers salt
20 g/l
40
60
70
80
100

Soda ash
5 g/l
10
15
20
20
20

For some spacific color:

Name
Mixed alkali
Glaubers salt (g/l)
Soda ash
Caustic soda

Red 4%

Navy 4%

Black 4%

80
5
1

80
5
1

100
5
1

109

Washing or cleaning of new dyeing machine (for high temperature

machine)

Liquor ratio= 1:10 1:12 (maximum)

Without loading fabric

Oxalic acid 3.0g/ l (1300 2 hr.)
Cooling up to 750c
Drain
Loading rejected gray fabric in each nozzle
Detergent / wetting agent 1.0g./l
Soda 5.0g./l
100oc 30
Check by operator lid

Flow chart of Turquise Color dyeing:

Fabric load
Wet Fabric
Drain
Fill water
Detergent, Sequestering, Anticreasing, Stabilizer at 65c for 8 min
Caustic soda at 75c for 8 min (dosing)
H2O2 at 80c (Inject)

110

Run time at 98c for 90 min

Hot wash at 98c for 10 min
Acid at 60c for 20 min
PH Check (4-4.5)
Enzyme at 60c for 60 min
Hot wash at 98c for 10 min.
Dye at 60c for 30 min (dosing)
Leveling at 60c (Inject)
Salt at 60c (Inject)
Soda at 60c for 30 min (dosing)
Hot wash at98c for 10 min (Color)
Acid at 60c for 20 min
Fixing at 45c for 20 min
Hot wash at 60c for 10 min (Color)
Softener at 45c for 20 min.
LPD wash
Unload

111

Reactive dyeing process; 100% cotton, Royal and Turquoise

color

900c (turoquish)
800c (royal)

800c

1.5/min
700c
1.5
600c
5 dyes 10 30
60)for

Auxiliaries G.salt
1
Inject
/10 3/10 6/10
Progressive dosing
Or sectional dosing

Progressive

(45-

soda ash

dosing

Control point
silicon based Antifoaming must be avoid
Before soaping PH must be below 7
Liquor ratio- 1:10 ( dye bath )
If dye bath final liquor ratio is 1: 10 but neutral bath 1: 8

112

Dyeing Sequence for Light Shade

M/C wash
(Hydrose, caustic soda at 98c for 20 min)
Detergent, Sequestering, Anticreasing, Stabilizer at 65c for 8 min
Caustic soda at 75c for 8 min (dosing)
H2O2 at 80c (Inject)
Run time at 98c for 90 min
.
Hot wash at 98c for 10 min
A.Acid at 60c for 20 min
PH Check (4-4.5)
Enzyme at 60c for 60 min
Hot wash at 98c for 10 min.
Dye at 60c for 30 min (dosing)
Levelling at 60c (Inject)
Salt at 60c (Inject)
Soda at 60c for 20 min (dosing)
Hot wash at 80c for 10 min (Color)
A.Acid at 65c for 20 min
Soaping at 85c for 20 min
Fixing at 45c for 20 min
Bath drop

113

Reactive dyeing process, 100% cotton, light and critical shade

Critical shades:
-Khaki; -olive;
-Shay;
- Light brow.

780c

20
Dyes

15

20
20
G. salt

Linear dosing

cooling
10

600c

30-

60
0%
0

40 c

20
20
4
/5 soda /5soda progressive
Dosing-3
dosing-3
st
20% soda (1 ) 80 %( 2nd)

Auxiliaries

Control point
Never use soda for light shade
Use glauber salt
Bleaching should be not above 600c.

114

Reactive dyeing process; 100% cotton light, medium and critical

shade

900 15
25
780c
Dyes

15

20
5
G. salt

30 60
600c

1.5/min

20
25
1
4
/5soda
/5 soda
20% dosing 80% dosing

400c

Controlling point:
Dosing should be always 600c
Use Glauber salt.
Soda for light shade.

115

Flow chart of Cotton fabric dyeing(Black)

Scouring & bleaching98c temp for 45-60 min

(Wetting agent, sequestering agent, anti creasing agent, anti foaming agent, stabilizing
agent, hydrogen per oxide)
Per oxide dozing 8 min, R.T 60 min at 95c
Enzymes wash with acid50c temp for 60min
Leveling with anti foaming & anti creasing agent at75c temp for10

Salt dozing 10 min at 60C, R.T15 min

Dye dosing 15 min at 60c, R.T.15 min

Soda dozing 30min at 60C & R.T 45 min

Heating 65C,R.T 45 min then sample cutting

Washing off70c or 95c temp for 15
A/acid wash 45c temp for 20 min
Softener35c temp for 20 min

Unload

116

Flow chart of Cotton fabric dyeing(Black)

600c
10

35

Auxiliaries
Glauber

dyes

30

45

45-60

soda ash

drop

600c
10
Auxiliaries
drop
G. salt

35
30
linear dosing

20
soda 5g/l

40

30

60

caustic

dyes

117

Color: lilla chiaro

Dyeing process for purple, violet, lilae or any Blue Cl-Br- combination shade-

(45-60)
0

60 c
1.5/min

Rinse
400c
10 10
drain
5
Leveling salt
PH- 6.5

30

30

40

and

Run
Dyes

Run

Soda

Machine wash or machine cleaning

Existing color in machine next color will be in machine

- wash

Dark shade (Navy, Black, Red, Burgundy)

light shade (Ecru, Light Blue, Light Pink,
Pale)
Wash with
A. 0.7g/l Hydrose
B.75 g/l caustic
C. 1100c 20
Same color same color no need wash

Remarks:

118

a. Gray fabric can be loaded.

b. Without any problem but color.
c. Fabric, shade fabric should be loaded by neutralization.
N.B. After competition of machine wash makes sure that cleaning is done correctly
this should be done by opening lid.

Washing off process, 100% cotton all colors:

Soaping
950c
800c
15
for dr. color two times soaping
400c Neutralization
two times soaping rinse
* For light color without soaping
15
5

Drain rise drain rinse drain Acetic acid 1.0g/l (d.k color)
Drain
0.7 g/l (light color)

Drain

119

Viscose pretreatment and dyeing carve

Detergent (MD-2) - 0.75g/l

Anticrease (rex) 0.70g/l
Alp- clean 3.0g/l

600 c45

Normal washes 2 times

Hot wash at 600c 10
Platition 0.8g/l
H2O2 killer 0.3g/l
Hot wash at 600c 10

600C

40
5

25
1

/3 soda

25
2

/3 soda

1.50/min

Salt
Dyes
400c
30

10

30

10

B/D
1

/3+2/3

Antifoam
Sequestering
Leveling

120

FOR KELLY GREEN

M: L = 1: 12
Leveling agent 2.0g/l
Sequester 1.0g/l
Anticreasing- 0.5g/l

900c

Dyes
800C
800c 30
60
Leveling

salt
10

30

25
Soda
1.50c/min

1.50c/m
45
1/3+2/3
15+30

B/D

121

Flow chart of White fabric dyeing:

Fabric load in m/c
Wet the Fabric
Drain
.
Fill water
Acid
Ph check-(4-4.5)
Enzyme at 60c for 60 min
Enzyme hot at 90c for 10 min
Scouring & bleaching at 98c for 90 min
Syno color at 60c for 30 min (dosing)
.
Runtime time at 98c for 20 min
Sample checkColor out
Color hot wash at 80c for 10 min
Acid at 60c for 20 min
Softener at 45c for 20 min
Rinsing
Unload

122

Process Flow Chart of Polyester Dyeing

Fabric load
Water fill
Auxiliary chemical add
Temp. Raise
Run the m/c 600c at 15min
Adjusted PH with A. acid
Color dosing for 10 min at 600c
Temp. Raise 1350c
Run the m/c 45 -60 min
Cold down700c
Shade check
Rains /Drain
Ok
Hot wash
Rains /Drain
Reduction cleared with hydrose caustic
Soaping
Neutralizing
Hot wash
Cold wash

123

Re- dyeing

When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing m/c for shade
matching is known as re- dyeing.
Generally re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper/lighter than the target shade.
It may occur when the fabrics absorbed one or two colors more or less.

One re-dyeing process is described below:

Drain the let off solution.
Transper acid and detergent
Hot wash at 900c for 5 min and frain
Eater is frained and re-filling (based on fabric)
Dosing caustic hydrose within 10 min
Wash at 1030c for 40 min
Cooling at 600c
Then drain and filling new water
Half scouring is done
Added peroxide killer to neutralization
Remaining PH(4.9) leveling is added
Then other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations.

124

Process Flow Chart of SOAPING:

Machine filling with water
Heating at 60 0C

Acetic acid dosing

PH Check

Run time 6 min.

Heating at 95 0C

Chemicals dozing

Run time 12 min.

Cooling at 70 0C

Rinse

Drain

125

Full stripping

The removal of dying shade of desired amount is called stripping.

It becomes necessary when uneven dyeing occurs.
It is two types:
1. Partial stripping:
Partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute
acetic acid or formic acid. Here temperature is raised to 70-100c and
treatment is continued until shade is removed by desired amount. After
that a through washing is necessary.
2. Full stripping:
For complete the goods are first treated with sodium hydrosulphite
(hydrose) at boil then washed off and bleached 1% sodium hypochlorite
(NaOCI) at room temperature. This is carried out for 30 minutes.
Reductive stripping without hydro-sulphite

950c

(30-40)

Alternative of
hydrosulphite

80 c

780c

5
600c

meclear12
1-2g/l
Drain

NaoH
3-5g/l

exolube Nc
MC 1.0g/l
Hot wash: 900c 10
Hot wash: 900c 10
Neutralize acetic acid = 1-2g/l to make PH= 7

N.B:
1. Never use H2O2 after above treatment.
2. be careful about neutralization.

126

Common dyeing faults with their remedies

1. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing.
- Using dyes of high fixation property.
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment.
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
2. Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Reducing the m/c load
- Higher liquor ratio
3. Dye spot:
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed

127

4. Softener Mark:
Causes:
- Improper mixing of the Softener.
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

5. Batch to Batch Shade variation:

Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature.
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
- Dyes lot variation.
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
- Improper pretreatment.

Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Maintain the same liquor ratio.
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of
the Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same
time and temperature in the process.
- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water
should check daily.

6. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:

Causes:
- Poor migration property of dyes.
- Improper dyes solubility.
- Hardness of water.
- Faulty m/c speed, etc

128

Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Proper m/c speed.
- Use of soft water

7. Patchy dyeing effect:

Causes:
- Entanglement of fabric.
- Faulty injection of alkali.
- Improper addition of color.
- Due to hardness of water.
- Due to improper salt addition.
- Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
- Uneven heat in the machine, etc
Remedies:
- By ensuring proper pretreatment.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
- Proper salt addition.

8. Wrinkle mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Higher liquor ratio

129

130

Definition:
Finishing is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed
or printed fabrics are subjected before they are put to market.
After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish, during dyeing all knit fabrics are
dyed in tubular form. According to buyers requirement knit fabrics are finished in
open form or tubular form.

Types of finishing m/c in MONTEX FABRICS Ltd:

Name of m/c
Hydro-extactor
De twistering / dewatering
Dryer
Bangle squeezer
Compactor
Steam setting
Heat setting
Stenter
Raising
Paching
Slitting

Number of m/c
2
2
2
4
5
2
1
2
1
1
1

Organogram:
In-charge

Finishing
In-charge

Q.C.
In-charge

Delivery
In-charge

Supervisor

Supervisor

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

Loader

Helper

131

Duties and responsibilities:

1. Receive the fabric from dyeing floor.
2. Finishing machines are ready for finish according to buyer requirement.
3. Check the quality of the fabric such as Dia, GSM, Shrinkage, Spirility, Shade
effect.
4. Pack the fabric and weighted the fabric.
5. Store the finished fabric.
6. Finally deliver the finished fabric.

Working sequence of finishing section:

De-watering dyed materials

Drying the materials

Steam setting/ heat setting the materials

Finally the Fabric dimension stable

Quality control

132

Toilet
De-watering machine

Hydroextract
or

Turn
table

finishing

Dyeing
section

De-watering

Return
Over
m/c

Dryer

Steam
Setting
M/c

tubtex
m/c

Balance

Inspecti
on table

Quality section
Fin
ishi
ng
incha
rge

Inspection
table
Inspection
table

tubtex
compac
tor

Inspection
table

Store

Heat
Setting
m/c

Delivery in-charge

Batch section

Store
Dying section

133

Back sewing m/c

Stair

Delivery
Zone

Raising machine
Laffer m/c
Stanter
Machine

Peaching
m/c

Input zone

Lift
Stair

134

For tubular form following machines are required

Hydro-extractor

De-watering

Dryer

Re-turn over m/c

Steam setting m/c

Compactor(Tubtex m/c)

135

M/c specification and description

1. HYDRO- EXTRACTOR M/C:
Manufacturer
Extraction %
Speed

:
: up to 60%
: 600-1400 rpm

Function:
To remove excess water from fabric by centrifugal extraction.

Inner perforated cage

Solid Outer cage

Motor

Hydro-extractor m/c
Working procedure:
Before drying from heavy fabric (pile, fleece, and terry fabric) excess water is
removed by hydro-extractor. It is a batch process which works on centrifugal
principal.
The basket form of centrifuge consists of a perforated cage of copper or iron
casing. Wet fabric is bundled into the cage which is then rotated at high speed. This
rotation develops a centrifugal force which forces the wet fabric to the inner wall of
the cage. Water is then forced out of the fabric through the perforation of cage and is
drained away from the outer casing.

Rotation speed 600- 1000 rpm

If emergency - 1400- 15000 rpm
After hydro-extraction water remain in fabric is 50-60 %
Time : 2- 10 min

136

DE-WATERING MACHINE:
Machine name
: Dewatering M/C
Brand name
: MERSAN
Manufacturer
: PASLANMAZ MAKINA SAN. VETIC LTD.STI.
Type
: Balloon squeezer
El. Power
: 14 kw
Weight
: 3,500 kg
Function:
Reduce water content.
Apply chemicals.
Apply overfeed to give some compactor.
Open the fabric from the rope form.
Width wise stretch the fabric.
Plait the fabric.
Padder

Delivery roller

Shaft

Front view of dewatering m/c

Controlling parameters:
Padder pressure
Pick- up
GSM
Speed at m/c

: 4-7 bar
: 85%
: 20-30%
: 8.5 m/min minimum
requirement of customers.

than

the

Function of m/c parts:

a) Spreader:
By spreader we can open fabric from rope position. It can be spread
and compressed in width direction by its hydraulic cylinder.
b) Hand wheel:
It is a manual when for guiding the spreader.

137

c) Turn table:
It controls the fabric rotation that helps in feeding the fabric the
spreader.
d) Squeezing roller:
To squeeze the water content from wet fabric.
e) Guiding roller:
It helps to feed the fabric into squeezing roller.
f) Security shield:
Security shield is an emergency switch settled with a plastic board
very bear to the padder. When it is closer to the padder it is on and when it
is pulled back than it is off, in case a big knot is going to the padded,
immediately pulls back the board to stop the machine.
g) Air injection switch:
It pushes air into fabric to turn it to ballooning form.
h) Photocell:
It is an auto sensor that control air injection.

Hand wheel
Air Injector
Chemical tank

De-twister
washing tank

Some part of de-watering m/c

Chemical application:
Softener: To soften the fabric. Softener bath capacity is 80 liters.
Recipe:
Baso soft (fatty acid condensation) : 4 g/l
Acetic acid
: 0 .25 g /L
H
P
: 7.5

138

Working principle:
After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are
Ready for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed.
There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and
turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. Here dewatering is
performed
De-watering is the process to remove the water from the fabric
completely by squeezing and it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used
before the fabric is passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric
flat wise and adjust the width.
The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider
than the required width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is
removed from fabric when passed through the nip of it.
Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where,
One for removing water and
Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener.
But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open widths knitted fabrics are
applied finishing treatment later in stenter.

PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF DEWATERING M/C:

Folder/
Tray

Padding
Rollers

Padding
Rollers
Detwister
Guide
Roller

Guide
Roller

Shaper
Passage

hj
Tray
Troly

Water Tank

Chemical Tank

Dewaterd
Fabric

Passage Diagram of The fabric in Dewatering Machine

Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning
before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the
maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase.
In feed & out feed traverses which present in albatross control the following functions
by over feeding system.

139

Dryer:
Machine name: Dryer
Brand name: DILMENLER
Country: Turkey
M/c type: DMS 05- 3 chambers, 2 pass relax dryer
Total power: 154.84kw
Working width: 2400 mm
Inlet Dia: 96 m
Production per 12 hrs: 3,500kg
Fuel combustion chamber:
Fuel- Natural gas
Fuel pressure-7.2m bar
Voltage-240/400v
Frequency-50Hz

Feed zone

delivery zone

3- Chamber

140

Drying:
Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is
evaporated from the fabric.
Curing:
Curing can be defined as a process following addition of a finish to textile
fabrics in which materials are heated for a short time in elevated temperature to effect
a chemical reaction.
Temperature
: 180-2200c
Time
: 30 to 60 secs
Controlling parameters:
GSM
: 15- 35%
Shrinkage
: 12-15%

Function of m/c parts:

Following equipment are used for relax drying process:
a) Dilmenler relax dryer(Turkey):
i. Gas burner heated.
ii. 3 chamber, 3 burners.

Gas burner

Conveyor belt

141

Machine setup:
a) m/c set up for Dilmenler relax dryer:
Machine parameter
Set-up value
Temperature

1300-1350 c for white shade

1400- 1500 c for light shade
1300- 1400 c for dark shade
1500- 1700 c for black & navy

Blower fan setting

Auto

Exhaust fan setting

Auto

Machine speed

3- 35 m/min depends on quality of fabric

Over feed

0- 40% depends on fabric construction

Width of spreader setting

45- 114 cm depends on the required

width of fabric.

Burner gas pressure

10- 15 bar

Working principle of dryer :

After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. The main function of the
dryer is given below,
To dry the fabric.
To control the overfeed system.
To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed
lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a
burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction
fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net. When the fabric
pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are
exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting
line.
The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of
the fabric. If the m/c temp.is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low
then m/c speed also low .

142

Operating parameters: Temperature:-Set the temperature between 1200c -1300c for white and 1500c
-1700c for color fabric. GSM
temperature Or, moisture content
temperature
Set the over feed up to 0-40% or as required to get finish G.S.M.
Set the speed as much as possible (6~20m/min). GSM speed
Checking parameters:
1. shade cheek:
In delivery side operation check the shade of fabric with customer approved
swatch.
If any deviation is found, he informs shift officer who takes the necessary
action to overcome the problem.
2. Width check: operator measures fabric width by using measuring tape and
compare with required width.
3. Weight check: operator checks the weight by using GSM cutter and electronic
balance and compared with the required weight.
4. faults check:

Re-turn over m/c:

Name: Re-turn over m/c
Brand name: MANMOOL
Country: China
Function of the re-turn over m/c:
Just turn of the fabric from either
back side to faces side or face side to
back side

Re-turn over m/c

Feed zone

delivery zone
Air tank

Steam setting m/c:

M/c Name: Steam Setting
Model: DNS- 1400
Manufacturing date: 11/2003
DONG NAM INDUSTRIAL CO. LTD

143

Conveyer
Steam r\r

Shaft
Feed r/r
Stem seating m/c
Continuous steaming machine
It is made up of a parallelepiped-shaped container (recent systems have closed
bottoms while old ones were opened at the bottom) with double-wall structure
preventing external heat transmission.
In the lower part of the jackets, the steam, coming from the boiler and passing through
the saturator, is caused to expand and boil in water. In this way, the saturated steam at
atmospheric pressure raises and heats the walls and the ceiling of the jackets
(preventing condensation drops from forming and dripping onto the fabrics, as a result
avoiding possible defects). The steam lowers from the top of the steaming machine
through the ceiling openings, drives the air away (air is heavier than steam) and fills
the steaming machine.
The equipment to control moisture and temperature of the steam feeding the
steaming machine is positioned in the jackets; the real-time control devices work
interactively and start immediately some spray-water humidifiers, each one is
cascade-connected with superheaters also assembled in the jackets. Thanks to this
system all the variables can be controlled in realtime (the temperature difference
allowed is 0, 5C of preset values, and steam density between 96 and 98%). If
necessary, the steam can be heated at temperatures of 170-180 C at atmospheric
pressure passing through the jackets.

1 - Overheated steam line

2 - Water supply
3 - Saturator
4 - Water drainage
5 - Saturated steam under pressure
7 - Saturated steam at 100
8 - Superheater humidifier
9 - Control system
10 - Steam inlet
11 - Steam level
Diagram of a continuous steaming machine

12 - Steam exhaust

144

Temperature control
The fabric passes through the steaming machine folded on sticks; the sticks
rotate all along the path and change the contact point with the fabric continuously to
prevent any fixation defects in contacting points. Furthermore the fabric, by effect of
the rotation of support sticks, constantly changes its position to reduce the formation
of defects due to possible steam stratification. The steam exchange is carried out by
means of one or more exhausters. At the end of the path, the fabric gets out of the
steaming machine, while the sticks pass in the lower part of the machine and grip
another piece of fabric at the entry of the steaming machine. Special inlet and outlet
devices, together with a slight pressurisation, prevent the air from entering (max. O2
allowed = 0.3/1000 volume).
Continuous process

Schematic Diagram of a steaming m/c (the fabric moves in pieces or on sticks)

(Ref: Finishing Reference Book of Textile Technology, 1st edition 2001,
By Pietro Bellni, Ferrucclo Bonetti, Ester Franzetti, Giuseppe Rosace, Serqio Vaqo,
pag: 94-95)
Tub compactor:
Machine name tubtex compactor
Brand name Dilmenler
Country U.S.A
Function:
To control shrinkage
To control GSM
To control dia
To smooth fabric
Heat setting of fabric for Lycra

145

Delivery zone

Action zone

Feed zone
Tub compactor
M/c apparatus:
Compactor shoe: 2 shoes to remove crease due compaction.
Shaft: five shafts are used. This are
Shafts size
Touch o-Matic latch bar
14''-17"
A
16"-19"
17"-20"
19"-25"
B
22.5"-28.25"
26"-36.375"
C
34.75"-47"
D
45"-57"
E
48.25"-60.25"

Double rolls: must be open position in operation.

Fold fabric over pattern board
Measuring meter: three meters
*Shoe pressure meter
*Roll pressure near meter
*Roll pressure far meter
Over feed roller.
Expander
Blanket (2)
Steam sprayers.
cylinder (2)
Teflon covers

146

M/c setup:
m/c parameters
Stem pressure
Air pressure
Temperature
Cooling fan motor
Width control
Speed setting

Set up value
4-6 bars
5 bars
90-1000c
Auto
48 to 114 cm
5-35 m/min

Checking parameter:
a. Shade check: operator checks shade at delivery side with approved swatch.
b. Width check: operator measure fabric width measuring tape compares it with approved
swatch.
c. Weight check: operator check GSM by GSM cutter and electronic balance.
d. Faults check
e. Design and slanting: operators check design at delivery side.
f. Edgline checking: 0.5 mm in both sides.

Working principle:The main object of compactor is to make the fabric surface smooth, to control the
residual shrinkage, G.S.M and if required fabric width also. To control the residual shrinkage the
fabric is previously shrinkage artificially by gathering of loops of knitted fabric and it is set by
heat and pressure. In tube compactor, the dried tubular knitted fabric is face to steam when it
passed through the Teflon coated conveyor belt. When a cotton fabric absorbs water, it swells
and shrinks (particularly in length direction) because the absorbed water allows the cellulose
chains to move relative stain free position. Then the fabric is passed through the expander.

Steam Roller / 1st Roller Heating

1st Denser Roller

Feed Roller

Folding
Rollers

Shaper
2nd Roller Heating

2nd Denser
Roller

Feeder
Drayed
Fabric

Compacted Fabric

Fabric passage diagram through tubtex Compactor machine

147

This m/c contains two compaction units to compact both side of the tubular fabric. Each
unit contains a hot rotating cylinder, blanket which rotate in contact with the cylinder and Teflon
cover .while passing the expander roller, the fabric is over feeded. The fabric is compacted with
the pressure of blanket and Teflon cover while passing through the hot cylinder .Due to
compaction stitch length is reduced. Then the fabric is passed through the counting device
.Before packing, the fabric is inspected carefully.
.
Special feature of tubtex Compactor:
-

Operating system is computerized.

Steam bar present which soften the fabric for compacting.
In compacting zone, edge & retard roller, compacting shoe and steel plates
are present.
A pair of pulley present for fabric dia control.
Fabric G.S.M, shrinkage and dia control.

For open form following machines are required

Hydro-extractor

De-watering

Dryer

Slitter

Stenter

Open compactor

148

Slitter m/c
Slitting:
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales
line on length wise direction prior to stenter processing.
Brand name- Bianco (SH)
Country- Italy
Year of manufacturing-2007
Velocity maximum-90m/min
Function of the Machine:
Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for
stentering
Delivered fabric in crease free state
Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing
by a nozzle or air sprayer
It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding
mechanism

De- twister

Over view of a slitting m/c

149

Sensor
Cutter

spreader

padder

sensor

Ring
Machine parts:
a. Rotary blade: to cut the fabric through break wiles line.
b. Ring: to help cutting.
c. Guide roller: to guide the fabric to plaiting.
d. Plaiting: to plait the fabric.
e. Sensor: sense for cutting through break Waless line.
Checking parameters:
a) Cutting line check: operator checks fabric cutting line. Rotary blade cut fabric through
breaks Waless line or not.
b) Bow and slant check: operator check bow and slant at delivery side.
c) Faults check:
Machine set up:
Machine parameters
Steam pressure
Air pressure
Temperature
Cooling fan motor
Width control
Speed setting
Padder pressure

Set up value
4-6 bar
5 bar
90-1000C
Auto
48-114 cm
30- 80 m/ min
(3-7bar)

Working principle:The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing
completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to
remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer
does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric.
This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors.

150

De-twister
Tubular
Fabric
Cigger

Sens
-or

Knife for
open
The fabric

Padder

Open Fabric

Dyed fabric

Delivered
Fabric

Schematic Diagram of Fabric passage through the slitting m/c

By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite
direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it
easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular
fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around
knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done.
Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by
stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device.

STENTER MACHINE: (M/C Specification)

Stenter m/c no - 01
Brand name - Sun-Super
Country of origin -South Korea
Manufacturing date-: 2006
Width Range -2700
Maximum Speed - 100m/min
Chamber 8
Function:
- Drying
- Shrinkage control
- Heat setting
- Width control
- Finishing chemical application.
- Loop control
- Moisture control,
- Dimensional stability.

151

Working Principle:
Stenter Machine is generally used to finish the open fabric. This stenter machine consists
of six chambers; each contains two burners, two blowers, two ducting line, nozzles and suction
fan attach with the suction line. The burner produces hot flue gases which guided though the
ducting line by the help of blower. There are nozzles placed above and bellow the rail. When the
fabric passed through the rail, then hot air is sprayed to the above and bellows the fabric with the
help of nozzle. The hot air is circulating in the chamber and the moisture in the fabric is
evaporated, which leave the chamber with the help of suction fan through the ducting line.

Delivery Roller

Feed Roller

Padding
Rollers

Padding
Rollers

Working Principle:
Feed
Fabric

Chemical Tank

Softener Tank

Weft
Straighter

Walkway

Six Chambers Cooling

Chamber

Delevered
fabric

Schematic Diagram of stenter m/c

Temperature of each chamber can control automatically by controlling the intensity of
burner. Generally lower temperature is maintained the first and last chamber then other
chambers.
The speed of the fabric is maintained according to the moisture content of the fabric.
After passing the fabrics to all the chambers, the fabric is collected for compaction. The
performance of the stentering range depends on proper introduction of the cloth into the
machine. The finer the fabric is being processed, the greater the significance of the correct,
crease free and fault free fabric introduction. In stenter m/c the fabric first passed through
different rollers including weft straightening device, uncurling device for proper feeding of the
fabric into the machine. Then it passed through the selvedge detector which detect the selvedge
and adjust the rail for proper gripping the fabric in the pin arrangement. This stenter m/c consists
of both pin and clip arrangement. The fabric first grip by pin and gust before entering the
chamber, pin are locked by clip arrangement. To maintain proper dimension of the fabric, length
wise overfeed and width wise tension is given to the fabric.

152

Important parts:
- Burner (12)
- Exhaust air fan (6)
- Over feed roller.

- Suction Fan (12)

- Nozzle
- Chain arrangement

Different sections of Stenter Machine:

A. Padder Section:
In the padder section the fabric is treated with chemicals specially with softener and acid
in two tanks. Each chemical tanks contains-

FOR POLYESTER:

Arristan PSR (Softener) - 10kg

+ Acetic Acid (acid) 200gm 100 liter water
or
Aqua IC (Softener) 10 kg
+ Acetic Acid (acid) 200gm 100 liter water

FOR COTTON: (COLOR):- Gemsol ASEM 20P - 10 kg

Reaknitt FF
- 7 kg
MgCl2
- 3 kg
Acetic Acid
- 200gm

100 liter water

FOR COTTON: (WHITE):- Tubengal SMF

- 10 kg
Arristan 64
- 3 kg
MgCl2
- 3 kg
100 liter water
Acetic Acid
- 200g
B. Weft Straightner:
The main function of Weft Straightner is to control the bowing & Skewnesss of the
fabric.
C. Width Setting Chamber:
This Chamber control the width of the fabric by clip of 10 pin.
D. Heating Chamber:
This chamber controls the shrinkage and the G.S.M of fabric.
Temperature Range:

Cotton-- 1500C~1700C.
Polyester- 1650C ~ 1850C.
With Lycra - 1750C ~ 1900C.

E. Cooling Chamber:
This chamber cooled the hot fabric before reach to delivery zone.
F. Exhaust Motor:
This specific part used to exit the steam produced in the chambers and also
temperature from the machine.

exit the extra

G. Delivery Zone:
This zone delivered the fabric in a folded form. In this zone the fabric has to
Pass through several rollers in order to prevent the formation of crease mark in the finished
fabric.

153

Diagram of Fabric passage through washing zone

Normal washing zone

chemical washing zone

Chain

Delivery zone

Gas burner

Feed zone

154

Parameters Used For Different Constructed Fabric :

For Polyester Fabric:
Fabric Type

Overfeed %

Temperature0C

Light
Color

Speed
(m/min)

Stretch (%)
Inch

Deep
Color
Depend on
fabric G.S.M

Single Jersey

5 % to 10%

1750C

1550C

14~15
Depend on
fabric G.S.M

Single Lacoste

45 % to 50%

1750C

1600C

14~15

Depend on
fabric G.S.M
Polo Pique

45 % to 50%

1700C

1600C

18~20
Depend on
fabric G.S.M

Interlock

0 % to 15%

1800C

1650C

16~18

For Cotton Fabric:

Fabric Type

Overfeed %

Temperature0C

Light
Color

Deep
Color

Speed
(m/min)

Stretch (%)
Inch

Single Jersey

60 % to 75%

1650C

1600C

15~17

3~4

Single Lacoste

60 % to 70%

1650C

1600C

14~15

2.5~3.5

Polo Pique

60% to 65%

1650C

1600C

14~15

2~3

Interlock

60 % to 70%

1700C

1550C

12~14

Rib

60 % to 70%

1650C

1500C

12~14

155

N.B: All this datas are suitable for this machine only. All this parameters are suitable for. Grey
G.S.M range 140~160 to get Finished G.S.M 170~185 without Lycra Fabric
N.B: If fabric is less Redder than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam.
If fabric is less Yellowier than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without
steam.
If fabric is less Bluer than the standard one, then reduce the temperature, increase
steam.
N.B: Polyester rib fabric is finished in tube form. All this datas are practiced in mills which
may vary with the change of fabric type. The quality assurance department is assigned to
maintain consistently uniform quality of the material; in process and various stages of its
manufacturing.
Stenter m/c no - 02
Brand name - Sun-Super
Country of origin -South Korea
Manufacturing date-: 2006
Width Range -2700
Maximum Speed - 100m/min
Chamber 8
Open compactor:
Machine name
: Open compactor
Brand name
: Dilmenler
Country
: Turkey
Manufacturing Year : 2008
Function:
1. To control shrinkage.
2. To control width.
3. To control GSM.
4. To smooth the fabric.
5. Heat setting for Lycra.
Conveyer belt

Compaction r/r

Feed roller

Sensor

156

Open compactor

Delivery zone
Function of Machine parts:
Spindle roller: spread the fabric
Blanket: To convey the fabric to the out let path.
Pinning roller: To equal the cheek and stripe.
Compaction roller: there are two compaction rollers, which are work with m/c
temperature. They are responsible to compact the fabric.Roller areLower felt press and upper felt press
Start lub: To lubrication on the chain.
Sensor:
Two sensor camera control the fabric feed path in the inlet.
Tow sensor act to feed fabric in the chain.
Limick switch: To control the blanket path.
Machine set up:
Machine parameters
Set up value
Steam pressure
4-5 bar
Air pressure
5 bar
temperature
80-1500c
Width
85-240 cm
Speed
5-50 m/min
Working speed
30m/min (maximum)
Over feed
..
*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle.
*Others fabric feed, straight.
Checking parameters:
a) Shade check: at delivery side operator check shade with approved swatch.
b) Faults check:
c) Width check: operator measures fabric width with measuring tape and compare
with approved swatch.
d) Weight check: operator check GSM by GSM cutter and electronic balance.
e) Design and slanting: operator check design and slanting at delivery side.

157

Lafer compactor
Brand name
Country
Cylinder
Company name
Model
Drum Speed
Drum Dia
Machine Speed
Manufacturing Year

: Lafer
: Italy
:1
: SPA Machine Tessili
: GSI 106
: 110
: 72 inch
: 40 m/min
: 2002

Feed zone

delivery zone

For collar and cuff finishing following machines are required

Hydro-extractor

Softening machine

Dryer
Softening machine:
Softening machine is used as a part of finishing process to soften only the collar and cuffs
to get required hand based on the requirement.

158

Other Finishing m/c

RAISING:
Raising:
Raising is a permanent mechanical finishing process of a layers from the body of the
fabric which stand out from the surface. Raising may be done either in wet stage (for woolen) or
dry stage (for cotton). Raising causes a lofty handle effect on fabric. For example
Flunnel fabric (woven raised fabric)
Fleece fabric (knitted raised fabric)
Specification of raising m/c
M/c name
: raising m/c.
M/c type
: RG2 24 Pcs.
Country
: Taiwan
Power
: 380v 50 Hz
Manufacturing date
: Nov 2002
Objects of raising:
To obtain a lofty handle effect on fabric
To obtain a fleecy appearance
To gain velvet effect
To create pile or cover on fabric surface
To produce warm cloth as well as a soft one

Raising r\r

Delivery r/r

Double acting raising m/c

Types of raising m/c: two types
Teasel raising machine
Card wire raising machine
Working principle:
Raising is the term used to describe the creation of a pile surface on a fabric.

159

Fibers are deliberately pulled part way out of a yarn to give the fabric a hairy or fuzzy
appearance and a soft surface texture. Napping, sueding and shearing are techniques for
developing a surface pile and in conjunction with calendaring are lumped into a category referred
to as Surface Finishing. Surface finishing effects, especially rising, have been used for years to
enhance the appearance and hand of fabric. Many of the finest wool and cashmere fabrics are
still mechanically finished - not only to improve their hand and appearance but to increase their
bulk, to impart the feeling of warmth, to increase the number of fiber ends on the surface of the
fabric, to provide improved adhesion for laminating purposes and to improve the profit margin
per yard sold. Many of the same techniques are used to finish woven and knitted goods made
from synthetic and synthetic blended fabrics. Sueding and napping machines are used on both
filament and spun constructions while shears, polishers, calendars and decaters are used singly or
in combination to create specific surface effects.
Ref: (Chemistry &technology of fabric preparation and finishing, 1st edition 1992, by:
CHARLES TOMASINO, Pag: 332 )
Peaching m/c:
M/c Specification
Name:peaching
Brand:MARIOCROSTA
Country:
No of roller:

Dust extractor

Feed roller

Guide roller

Peaching m/c

160

Delivery r/r

Dram

peach roller

Controlling parameter for light fabric (cotton):

Dram speed
Expender speed
Feed r/r speed
Delivery r/r speed
Brush r/r speed

: 119
: 500
: 13.1
: 14.1
: 1125

Monitor

161

GSM cutter
Introduction:
A specialized instrument to determine the GSM of the textiles (Woven, Non Woven or
Knitted, Fabrics).The Round Cutter can be used for virtually any type of material including Film,
Foam, Carpet Paper and Board.
Equipment:
The unit is recommended for Yield testing i.e. determination of weight per unit area. The
sample cutter cuts out rapidly and accurately circular specimens of 100 Sq. cm. which is exactly
One Hundredth of a Square Meter.
The result in gram:
GRAMS
per Square METER = Specimen
Weight
in
Grams
100
Technical specification:
SPECIMEN AREA
100 CM2
SPECIMEN
113 MM (Approx)
DIAMETER
TYPE OF CUT
STANDARD
BLADES
HEAVY DUTY(GERMAN) FOR LONG LIFE
FOR THIS APPLICATION FOR REPETETIVE TEST WITHOUT
RUBBER PAD
FAIL.
Procedure:
The Cutter has been specially designed to make it portable due to its light weight. Only
the fabric has to gripped between cutter base and Rubber pad cutter top to be rotated gently
clockwise direction for accurate cutting of fabric. The cut fabric can be weighed and multiplied
by 100 to get GSM.
Maintenance:
To maintain the efficiency of the Cutter:
a) The Blades should be turned or changed when they become damaged or blunt.
b) The Cutting Pad should also be changed, when it becomes worn out.
Note: - For best results, only approved blades and pads should be used.
Accessory:
For determining the weight per area, a weighing scale having the minimum sensitivity of 0.01
gm is required.
For this purpose, we have the following weighing scales:
1) Lab Analytical Balance : With 0.1 mg sensitivity
2) Digital Weighing Scale : With 0.01 gm sensitivity
3) Innolab Quadrant Scale for GSM to directly give GSM of fabric

GSM cutter

162

163

Yarn Dyeing
.

Montex Fabrics Limited

(Yarn dyeing Unit)

Name

Montex fabrics Ltd (Mondol Group).

Type

100% Export Oriented Yarn

Year of establishment

2002

Investor

Abdul Mojid Mondol

Location

Nayapara, Konabari, Gazipur.

Project cost

60 Core

Certification & awards

ISO 9001:2002

Production capacity

Dyeing: 8 ton/day (Average)

Email Address

[email protected]

URL

http://www.mondol.net

164

A History of Yarn
A continuous strand of twisted threads of natural or synthetic material, such as wool or
nylon, used in weaving or knitting.
Any fibre, as wool, silk, flax, cotton, nylon, glass, etc., spun into strands for weaving,
knitting, or making thread
Background
Yarn consists of several strands of material twisted together. Each strand is, in turn, made
of fibres, all shorter than the piece of yarn that they form. These short fibres are spun into longer
filaments to make the yarn. Long continuous strands may only require additional twisting to
make them into yarns. Sometimes they are put through an additional process called texturing.
The characteristics of spun yarn depend, in part, on the amount of twist given to the fibres
during spinning. A fairly high degree of twist produces strong yarn; a low twist produces softer,
and a very tight twist produces crepe yarn. Yarns are also classified by their number of parts. A
single yarn is made from a group of filament or staple fibres twisted together. Ply yarns are made
by twisting two or more single yarns. Cord yarns are made by twisting together two or more ply
yarns.
History
Natural fiberscotton; silk, and woolrepresent the major fibres available to ancient
civilizations. The earliest known samples of yarn and fabric of any kind were found near
Robenhausen, Switzerland, where bundles of flax fibres and yarns and fragments of plain-weave
linen fabric, were estimated to be about 7,000 years old.
Cotton has also been cultivated and used to make fabrics for at least 7,000 years. It may
have existed in Egypt as early as 12,000 B.C. Fragments of cotton fabrics have been found by
archaeologists in Mexico (from 3500 B.C.)., in India (3000 B.C.), in Peru (2500 B.C.), and in the
southwestern United States (500 B.C.). Cotton did not achieve commercial importance in Europe
until after the colonization of the New World. Silk culture remained a specialty of the Chinese
from its beginnings (2600 B.C.) until the sixth century, when silkworms were first raised in the
Byzantine Empire.
Synthetic fibers did not appear until much later. The first synthetic, rayon, made from
cotton or wood fibres, was developed in 1891, but not commercially produced until 1911.
Almost a half a century later, nylon was invented, followed by the various forms of polyester.
Synthetic fibres reduced the world demand for natural fibers and expanded applications.
Until about 1300, yarn was spun on the spindle and whorl. A spindle is a rounded stick
with tapered ends to which the fibres are attached and twisted; a whorl is a weight attached to the
spindle that acts as a flywheel to keep the spindle rotating. The fibres were pulled by hand from a
bundle of carded fibres tied to a stick called a distaff. In hand carding, fibers are placed between
two boards covered with leather, through which protrude fine wire hooks that catch the fibers as
one board is pulled gently across the other.

165

The spindle, which hangs from the fibres, twists the fibres as it rotates downward, and spins a
length of yarn as it pulls away from the fibre bundle. When the spindle reaches the floor, the
spinner winds the yarn around the spindle to secure it and then starts the process again. This is
continued until all of the fibre is spun or until the spindle is full.
A major improvement was the spinning wheel, invented in India between 500 and 1000
A.D. and first used in Europe during the Middle Ages. A horizontally mounted spindle is
connected to a large, hand-driven wheel by a circular band. The distaff is mounted at one end of
the spinning wheel and the fibre is fed by hand to the spindle, which turns as the wheel turns. A
component called the flyer twists the thread just before it is wound on a bobbin. The spindle and
bobbin are attached to the wheel by separate parts, so that the bobbin turns more slowly than
does the spindle. Thus, thread can be twisted and wound at the same time. About 150 years later,
the Saxon wheel was introduced. Operated by a foot pedal, the Saxon wheel allowed both hands
the freedom to work the fibers.
A number of developments during the eighteenth century further mechanized the
spinning process. In 1733, the flying shuttle was invented by John Kay, followed by Hargreaves'
Spinning Jenny in 1766. The Jenny featured a series of spindles set in a row, enabling one
operator to produce large quantities of yarn. Several years later Richard Arkwright patented the
spinning frame, a machine that used a series of rotating rollers to draw out the fibers. A decade
later Samuel Cromptons' mule machine was invented, which could spin any type of yarn in one
continuous operation.
The ring frame was invented in 1828 by the American John Thorp and is still widely used
today. This system involves hundreds of spindles mounted vertically inside a metal ring. Many
natural fibres are now spun by the open-end system, where the fibres are drawn by air into a
rapidly rotating cup and pulled out on the other side as a finished yarn.

Yarn dyeing
There are many forms of yarn dyeing. Common forms are the at package form and the at hanks
form. Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank
form. In the continuous filament industry, polyester or polyamide yarns are always dyed at
package form, while viscose rayon yarns are partly dyed at hank form because of technology [1].
The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is as
follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

The raw yarn is wound on a spring tube to achieve a package suitable for dye penetration.
These softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle one on another.
The packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable density of packing.
The carrier is loaded on the dyeing machine and the yarn is dyed.
After dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier into a trolly.
The packages are hydro extracted to remove the maximum amount of water.
The packages are then dried to achieve the final dyed package.

After this process, the dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered.

166

Yarn-Dyed Products
Textured yarns have revolutionised the world of textiles and clothing. By giving
synthetics a look and feel that is more akin to natural fibres, they have facilitated the penetration
of markets that were the domain of cotton and blended yarns.
The global market for textured yarns continues to expand in the USA and Japan, but the
largest and fastest-growing markets are in the developing East and South-east Asian countries.
The worlds biggest market for these yarns is PR China; from a mere 8.2 kilotons in 1980, the
last two decades have seen phenomenal growth to a current level of about 850 kilotons per
annum.
Dyed yarn is needed for sewing threads, hosiery, carpets, towelling and a wide variety of
colour woven or knitted designs in outerwear, sportswear, workwear and home furnishings.
Although a much smaller market segment than fabric dyeing, the range of shades required is just
as large. Virtually all fibre types can be dyed in yarn form. This includes staple-spun natural
fibre yarns, continuous filament, and both flat yarn and textured and staple-spun yarns
manufactured from synthetic fibres. Yarn dyeing is situated almost midway in a typical
manufacturing sequence. By the suitable selection of dyes and processing routines, level dyeing
of high fastness together with a high degree of reproducibility can be produced, leading to rightfirst-time (RFT) production. It is economically advantageous to spin undyed fibre, showing
improvements in spinning efficiency and the elimination of coloured waste. The availability of
undyed yarn in a form suitable for dyeing gives shortened delivery times, leading to a quick
response processing route.
The principal methods of dyeing yarn are either as hank or in package form. Hank dyeing tends
to produce a yarn with a fuller handle and bulk, but tangling may occur and the technique is not
readily suitable for singles yarn. Hank reeling and subsequent rewinding (back-winding) after
dyeing are costly and may generate waste. Levelness may be inferior to that obtained from
package dyeing due to channelling of the liquor in the dyeing m/c, whilst the payload for hank is
much less than that for package in a m/c of a given size.
Package dyeing gives better fabric definition but has often been criticised for yielding a
leaner yarn. However, by suitable yarn engineering this leanness can be overcome. Methods have
been developed for reducing the liquor ratio during dyeing. These include the use of larger
package dimensions with higher package densities produced by press-packing techniques. Faster
back-winding with the generation of less waste is possible. By the incorporation of suitable
lubricants in the dye bath, back-winding can even be eliminated and the dye package can be
utilized directly as the supply package for warping, weaving, knitting and tufting processes. High
degrees of levelness and reproducibility can be achieved, using dyes of intrinsically high fastness
properties. Many of the developments in package dyeing lead to savings in energy, water,
effluent, labour and space.
Whilst the traditional demarcation between hank and package dyeing routes has been
eroded, hand-knitting yarn, high-bulk acrylic yarns and carpet yarns were usually dyed in hank
form. These can now be dyed successfully in package form.
On the other hand, singles yarn, particularly cotton yarns and singles yarn for the
production of marls have been traditionally package-dyed. Viscose cake, sewing threads and
continuous filament yarn are most successfully dyed in package form. Ref: Practical Dyeing,
Volume 3, peg: 33

167

Types of yarn dyeing:

Package form(this type of yarn dyeing in Montex Fabrics Lt.)
Hank form

Organogram:
AGM

Senior Manager

Manager
Production officer (shift 01)

In-charge (per shift)

Supervisor (per shift)

Senior operator (per shift

Operator (per m/c)

Helper (per m/c)

Production officer (shift 02)

In-charge(per shift)

Supervisor (per shift)

senior operator (per shift)

Operator (per m/c)

Helper (per m/c)

168

Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer:

To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for
the smooth running of the section.

To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production
process.

To match production sample with target shade.

To collect the production sample lot sample matching next production.

To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.

To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.

To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.

To sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM

To execute the overall floor work.

To maintain loading/ unloading paper.

Any other assignment given by the authority

M/c specification
Yarn Dyeing Machine:
1.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
840 Kg
2003
CHAINA

2.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
800Kg
2005
CHAINA

3.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
750Kg
2004
CHAINA

4.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
500Kg
2006
CHAINA

169

5.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
850 Kg
2002
CHAINA

6.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
600 Kg
2006
CHAINA

7.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
650 Kg
2002
CHAINA

8.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
400Kg
2004
CHAINA

9.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
350Kg
2008
CHAINA

10.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

TONG GENG
435 Kg
2002
CHAINA

11.

M/c Name
Built Year
Capacity
Origin

:
:
:
:

DONG BAO DYEING M/C

2007
800kg
CHINA

12.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
6 Kg
2008
CHINA

13.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
12 Kg
2008
CHINA

14.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

H.T.P
50 Kg
2008
CHINA

170

15.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
85 Kg
2008
CHINA

16.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
165 Kg
2008
CHINA

17.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
165 Kg
2008
CHINA

18.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
290 Kg
2008
CHINA

19.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
290Kg
2008
CHINA

20.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
435 Kg
2008
CHINA

21.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
650Kg
2008
CHINA

2 2.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
840 Kg
2008
CHINA

23.

M/c Name
Capacity
Built Year
Origin

:
:
:
:

FONGS
12 Kg
2008
CHINA

171

Flow chart of yarn dyeing

Soft winding
Pre-paration
Batch preparation
Scouring
Pre-treatment
Bleaching
Dyeing
Hydro-extractor
Drying
Finishing
Hard winding
Packing

Working sequence of yarn dyeing:

Take the gray yarn for dyeing
Yarn sent to the soft winding section
Batching the yarn according to m/c capacity
Yarn load into the m/c
Pretreatment process are done
Dyeing
Washing off

De-watering

172

Dryer
Random (hard winding)
Packing

Raw materials:
Type of yarn

Count

Cotton

20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,

Polyester

70D, 100D,150D

Grey Mlange (C-90% V-10%)

24S, 26S

Ecru Mlange (C-85% V-15%)

24S, 26S, 28S

Cotton Mlange (100%)

24S, 26S, 28S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)

24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton)

24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Chemical list

Sl
no
01.
02.

Agent

Item

Wetting agent
Leveling
Leveling

Feloson Nof
Meropen DPE
Drimagen E2R

09.

Sequestering
Sequestering
Sequestering
Stabilizer
Anticrease
Anticrease
Peroxide killer
Fixing
Fixing
Fixing
Antifoaming
Antifoaming
Softening

10.

Enzyme

Ladiquest 10970-u
Sirrix 2ud
Kleerix 2ud
Jintex stab
Jinsofter CAN
JinfofterCBA
Jintexyme OEM
Jinfix SR
Sandofix EC
Lamfix L
An-Vo
Antimussol HTS
Flakes SR-2
Belfusin GT
Biopolish 200L

03.

04.
05.
06.
07.

08.

Us $

Local Country of origin

price
3.10
275.00
CHT Germany
2.00
190.00
CHT Germany
1.75
125.
Clariant /Swit
00
1.65
190.00
Clariant /Swit
X
150.000
Clariant / Swit
1.00
95.00
Rassary India
1.1
130.00
Jintex Taiwan
1.1
100.00
Jintex Taiwan
1.2
110.00
Jintex Taiwan
1.9
180.00
Jintex Taiwan
1.9
190.000
Jintex Taiwan
2.95
350.000
Clariant /Swit
1.45
155.00
Lambert Italy
3.25
270.000
Lambert Italy
3.45
450.00
Clariant /Swit
1.75
160.00
Forland china
1.35(EURO) 190.00
Germany
1.35(URO)
190.00
Novo- sri-lanka

173

11.
12.

500/MTX

550.00
74.00

Taiwan
Hansol korea

Hydrogen peroxide

450MTX

74.00

Dcc koria

13.

Caustic soda

450MTX
450MTX

43.00
43.00

AGC Chomical
Thailand chaina

14.
15.

Caustic soda
Golden salt
DSP-1250

Soaping

Acetic acid
Hudrogen peroxide

1.4

India/ Chaina
Lamberti/Italy

Winding section
Soft winding:
To transfer the yarn from cone to a suitable package (plastic or steel perforated bobbin) this can
be dyed easily.
Object of soft winding:
To transfer yarn from paper cone to suitable cone
To make sure the further process
Dye molecules easily penetrated to the yarn
These m/cs are available in winding section of Montex Fabric Ltd.
m/c name
Soft winding

Brand name
Lee wha

Country
Korea

Speed
1000 m/min

Soft winding

Coral textile

China

1000 m/min

Soft winding

Local

India

800 m/min

w.speed
800
max
950
max
750
max

Parts of winding machine:

On of winding
Creeling:
Placement of full packages in position to unknown also removal of empty packages and
replacing them with full ones.
Piecing up:
Finding and connecting two ends of packages piecing up can be done by knotting or
splicing. The piecing up is carried out when end breaks or the creeling operation is complete.
Doffing:
It is the removal of full cones and there replacement with the empty ones.
Main parts of this machine
1) Feeler
2) Yarn clearer
3) Yarn guide
4) Tensioning device

174

1. Feeler
It activate when end breaks or case of supply bobbins becomes empty.
2. Yarn clearer
Yarn clearer could be of mechanical, electrical nature and are used to remove yarn
imperfections. I.e. slubs, thick and thin places.
3. Yarn guide
It is use to control the yarn path.
4. Tensioning device
These are used to give the winding yarn a proper tension for the firmness of the cones or
packages. The tensioning devices easily adjustable. The tension to the winding yarn is adjusted
according to the yarn strength as too high tension damages the yarn as produces hairiness.
Similarly using to low tension will result in an unstable yarn packages which will be difficult to
unwind.
MODEL GA014 (MD.PD) GROOVED DRUM WINDER
APPLICATIONS
Model GAY014 grooved drum winder is divided into two types: MD and PD, both are
suitable for winding of cotton, flax, wool and synthetic fibre which is supply bobbin for warping
and Knitting.
The structure of the machine is in a novel style and the electric controlling components are high
quality. This machine has attractive appearance, runs stably. The bobbin forming is superlative,
drum winder. This machine can be connected with several attachments. These are suitable for the
customers different demand.

Winding m/c

175

176

Check Points:

Clean over head blower

Water level in splicer
Clean the yarn cleaner

177

Some essential points in winding section:

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Package density
Softness / hardness of package
Package portion density
Package weight
Package diameter
Traverse length or package weight

Package Density Calculation:

Package Weight= 850gm
Package dia =16.2 cm
Spring dia=7 cm
Hight of Package=14 cm
Mass
We Know that, Density =
Volume
Volume (v) = r12 h r22 h

Here, Mass =Package weight Bobbin weight

= 850-100
= 750 gm
here,

= 3.1416

r1= radius of outer package

r2 = radius of inner package
h = length of package
So volume (v) = 3.1416 h (r12 r22)
= 3.1416 14 (8.12-3.52)
= 2346.90 cm3
750
Density =
2346.90
=0.319 gm/ cm3
Length Calculation:
Yarn count Yarn weight
Yarn length=
0.59059
301000
=
0.59059
3000
=
0.59059
=5079.66 m

178

Package portion density:

One package divided into six parts. After one part of them should be unwounded then
calculate the density of the remaining (parts) on package. Repeated for next calculation to
determined density synchronize.
3
Portion density deviation should not be excited 20 gm/ cm because these values are suitable for
even dyeing.

Batch
Batching:
Batching preparation is the process where visually inspected grey yarns are
divided into deferent batches with reasonable quantity in order to make them suitable for
the further operation.
Function or purpose of batch section:
- To receive the soft winding yarn package from winding section.
- To perform the winding inspection.
- To prepare the batch of yarn for dyeing according to the following criteria
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
M/C capacity
M/C available
Type of yarn(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)
-

To send the yarn to the dyeing floor with batch card.

To keep records for every yarn package before dying.

Proper batching criteria:

- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
- To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade.
- To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
Process sequence of batch preparation:
Process sequence of batch preparation receive batch card from grey in-charge

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

Take one specific batch card

Read the batch card for own understanding

179

Check the availability of yarn

Take required quantity yarn from storage

Make required mp, of rope maintaining equal length

Load the yarn package into the carrier

Write down the weight against lot no, in the back side of the batch card

Write the total weight in batch card

Put signature and date

Fill up the production report form

Different parts of package dyeing m/c:

1. Material carrier
2. Tank
3. Mixer
4. Lid
5. Circulating pump
6. Vessel
7. Inverter
8. Sampling device
9. Heating exchange

180

Schematic diagram of a package dyeing m/c

1. Material carrier
It carries the material i.e. cones or packages which are to be dyes.
2. Chemical tank
All dyes and chemicals are first put in the tank in which mixing of dyes and
chemicals take place.
3. Mixer
Mixer is basically a motor which mix the dyes and chemicals in the chemical
tank before their introduction in the machine.
4. Lid
It is used for the opening and closing of the machine.
5. Circulating pump
Circulating pumps which control the circulation of water.
6. Vessel
It is a steel container in which yarn dyeing takes place.
7. Inverter
Automatic device for the control of the differential pressure run by an inverter
8. Sampling device.
For the lab testing samples of yarn are put in the sampling device. So that we
prepare a sample without stoppage of machine. Usually 5gram sample is
used.
9. Heating exchange.
A device designed to transfer heat between two physically separated fluids;
generally consists of a cylindrical shell with longitudinal tubes; one fluid flows
on the inside, the other on the outside.

181

Preparation for Dyeing

Scouring is difficult in package-dyeing m/cs, due to filtration by the yarns.
Excessively contaminated yarns cannot be successfully scoured without the
redeposition of dirt and oil. Yarns should therefore be dry-spun or spun with water
soluble lubricants. The lubricants and spin finishes from synthetic-fibre yarns are
readily removed by an alkaline detergent scour. Solvent-soluble contamination of
yarn for package dyeing should be below 0.5% and evenly distributed for level dyeing
to be obtained. Heavy deposits on the inside of packages can cause serious problems
and scouring is usually carried out with two-way flow. Regarding the preparation of
cotton yarns in hank form apply equally to packages.

Package specification for textured yarn:

Parameter
-Package weight
-Package diameter
-Package centre diameter
-Package traverse
-Angle of traverse wind
-Package density
-Spindle density of packages
after press-packing

Value
1.0 kg
220 mm
56 mm
140 mm
1540
220 g/l
280g/l

Specifications for staple yarn packages

Parameter
Cone
Pack diameter (cm)
20.3 (base)
Pack traverse (cm)
15.2
Pack weight (kg)
1.3
Pack density (g/l)
350
Spindle density (g/l)
0
Packs per spindle
5
Weight (kg) of yarn/spindle 6.5
Effective liquor ratio
21:1
Dyeing cost (% of PSDP) 148

BI-KO
20.3
15.2
1.3
335
375
7
9.1
15:1
118

PSDP
20.3
15.2
1.3
340
405
9
11.7
11:1
100

182

Scouring and Bleaching

(Feloson. Nof) detergent / wetting agent

Sequestering agent

1.0 g/l
0.7g/l

6010

Caustic
H2O2
Stabilizer) sirix sb

.7g/l
2.0g/l
1.6 g/l

110030
Rinse 5

Enzyme base c. acid

Enzyme base
0.5 g/l

Per-oxide killer
Curve: Acetic acid (for neutralization)

555

1100c 30

700c
600c 10

400c
drain
Detergent
Sequester
oxide killer
Wetting

550c 5

5
caustics
H2O2
stabilizer

enzyme base peracetic acid

183

General working sequence of yarn dyeing

1/3 salt dosing at o- steam

Dyeing chemical dosing
10 run
Color dosing 30 o- steam
2/3 salt dosing o steam
Run 680c 20 (850c 20 for Turkish color)
Cooling 580c (750c for turkesh )
Level check
Soda dosing at 580c 50 (750c 50 for turkesh shade)
Dyeing run 600c 20 (800c 20)
First sample check (if not ok)
Again run 20 same temp
Sample check
Ok sample
Bath drop
Rainsing 10
After 10 drain
Water filling
Neutralization at 550c 10
Drain

184

Water filing
Wash chemical inject
N.B: washing chemical inject
Deep shade: 980c 20
Pale shade: 950c 20
Light shade: 900c 20

Dyeing process
For
Light shade less than 0.5%
Chemical+ 1/3 (00c 10 minute)
Color dosing (00c 20 minute)
Run ( 00c 10minute)
2/3 salt dosing ( 00c 10minute)
Run time( 680c 20 minute)
Cooling 580c
Level check
Soda dosing ( 550c 30 minute )
Run( 600C20minute)
Sample check

185

Dyeing process
For dark shade more than 0.5%
Chemical + 1/3 alt (00c 10 minute)
Color dosing (00c 30minute)
Run (00c 10 minute)
2/3 salt dosing (00c 20minute)
Run time( 680c 20 minute)
Cooling 580c
Level check
Soda dosing ( 580 50minute )
Run( 600C20minute)
Sample check

Washing

For royal/ turquoise/ black / red

Rinse(5+5)
Without drop 60 5 drain
Acetic acid 55 10
Soaping 98 20
Hot wash 98 20
Hot wash 80 10
Rinse 5

186

Light color 0.5

Rinse (5)
Acetic acid 55 10
Soaping 95 15
Hot wash 95 15
Rinse 5

Medium color
Rinse (7)
Acetic acid 55 10
Soaping 95 15
Hot wash 98 15
Rinse 5

Finishing
PH check 5.5
LF Dosing 15- (0 curves)
10c/Minute
55 15
Fixing Dosing 15- (0 curves)
55 15

187

Dyeing process For Turquoise shade

Chemical + 1/3 alt (800c 10 minute)

Color dosing (800c 30minute)
Run (800c 10 minute)
2/3 salt dosing (800c 20minute)
Run time ( 850c 25 minute)
Cooling 800c
Level check
Soda dosing ( 800 20minute )
Run time ( 800C10minute)
Soda dosing ( 800 35minute)
Run ( 800C30minute)
Sample check

Bath drop
For turquoise shade

Rinse 10 minute
Rinse 5 minute (without drop)
555 minute (hot wash)
Drain

188

Acid (550c 10minute)

980c 25 minute (NSR Wash)
(1000c 20minute)
(700c 5 minute)
Rinse (5 minute)
Fastness check

POLYSTER DYEING
Hot wash 800-900c 10
Drain
PH control 4.5PH
Dye chemical dosing
Temp rise
600c run the m/c 10
Color dosing at 600c 15
Temp rise 1.50 c pre min
1000c 5 run
Temp 1350c
50 run
Cooling at 800c
Sample check
Drain

189

Recipe:

800c 10

Hot wash
Dyeing
Disperse blue KFBL
Disperse red KFB
Disperse yellow K4G

1350C 48

Chemical:
Ammunimu sulphte
Falic acid
Pouder
DFT
Caustic
Capa hydrogen 98
Acetic acid

: 1 gm/l
: 0.2 g/l
: 0.75g/l
: 0.5 G/L
: 1g/l
:1g/l
: 0.5 g/l

MELANGE/ WHATE
Detergent wash600c 20
Bath drop
Detergent +sequester 600c 10
Caustic dosing 600c 5
H2O2dosing at 700c 10
Stabilizer (Serrix SB)
Temp rise 1050 c run for 4o
Cooling 800c
Level check
Syno white dosing 800c 20
Temp rise to 900c

190

Run the m/c for 20

Cooling 800c
Sample check
Ok

Finishing Section

HYDROEXTRACTOR
M/c name
Brand name
Capacity
Production per hr.

: Hydro extractor
: STALAM
: 32 packages
: 360

HYDROEXTRACTOR

191

Dryer
Drying system use the delicate passage of hot air through the packages after
hydro extraction. This system is now the most common among the dyeing houses
around the world because of the very low energy consumption and the high quality of
drying.

Lay-out packages dryer

192

Principle of Operation
In a radio frequency drying system the RF generator creates an alternating electric
field between two electrodes. The material to be dried is conveyed between the
electrodes where the alternating energy causes polar molecules in the water to
continuously re-orient themselves to face opposite poles much like the way magnets
would move in an alternating magnetic field. The friction of this movement causes the
water in the material to rapidly heat throughout its entire mass.
Below is a depiction of a radio frequency drying system with a product between the
electrodes. Polar molecules within the product are represented by the spheres with "+"
and "-" signs connected by bars.

Operating principle of a radio frequency dryer.

The amount of heat generated in the product is determined by the frequency,
the square of the applied voltage, dimensions of the product and the dielectric "loss
factor" of the material which is essentially a measure of the ease with which the
material can be heated by this method. Because water is far more receptive than other
materials usually found in glass or ceramics, the water is preferentially heated and
evaporated. The reduction in loss factor as the material dries out provides a valuable
safeguard against overheating. This method of drying, therefore, is ideal for
applications where uniformity of product dryness is an important requirement.

193

The Benefits of RF Drying

Precise Control of Moisture Content and Uniformity.
In ceramics production the primary cost driver is product yield. Radio
frequency drying increases product yield because of the uniform level of dryness
throughout the product prior to the firing process. The moisture leveling phenomenon
of RF drying likewise occurs within each item being dried.

Reduction of Surface Cracking

Cracking caused by the stresses of uneven shrinkage in drying is eliminated
by RF drying. This is achieved by the RF dryer's even heating throughout the product
maintaining moisture uniformity from the center to the surface during the drying
process. Other factors may contribute to surface cracking, however, the control of
moisture uniformity achieved by RF drying has, by far, been the most significant in
solving such problems.
Energy Savings
The efficiency of a convection dryer drops significantly as lower moisture
levels are reached and the dried product surface becomes a greater thermal insulator.
At this point, but with more moisture to be removed, the RF dryer provides an energyefficient means of achieving the desired moisture objectives. Typically, one kilowatt
of RF energy will evaporate 1kg of water per hour.
Savings in Plant Space
Since heating begins instantaneously throughout the product, the dwell time
in an RF dryer is far less than in a conventional dryer. This translates into significant
savings in floor space. The drawing below shows a typical 150kW dryer, capable of
evaporating over 300 pounds of water per hour, to be 24 feet, 7 inches (7.5 meters)
long.
Calculation

Formula:
Dryer constant dryer load (kw)
Dryer speed =
No of package per meter wt.of water per package
Here,
Dryer constant = 1.1
Dryer load = 85kw
No of package per meter in dryer conveyor = 40 number

194

Example:
Let,
Grey weight = 380kg
Total package = 404
Bobbin weight = 100gm.

Grey weight
Package weight =
Total package
Package weight =380/404 = 0.940 kg
Package weight without bobbin wt. = 0.940-0.100 = 0.840kg
After dyeing package weight = 1175 gm
So,
After dyeing package weight = (1175- 100) gm = 1075gm = 1.075 kg
Water content per package = water with package dry package
= 1.075- 0.840
=0.235 kg
Now,
Dryer speed=

1.1 85

40 0.235
= 9.94 meter per hr.

Random / Hard Winding

To transfer the dyed package yarn into suitable package for packing &
storage/ delivery the yarn.
This type of m/c is winding m/c.

After this section dyed yarn redy delivery.

195

196

Garment
Concepts:
The word textile is form latin texere which means to weave, to braid, or
to construct. The simplest textile art is felting, in which animal fibers are matted
together using heat and moisture. Most textile arts begin with twisting or spinning and
plying fibers to make yarn (called thread when it is very fine and rope when or is very
heavy). The yarn is then knotted, looped, braided, or woven to make flexible fabric or
cloth and cloth can be used to make clothing and soft furnishings. All of these itemsfelt, yarn, fabric, and finished objects are collectively referred to as textiles.
The textile arts also include those techniques which are used to embellish or decorate
textile dyeing and printing to add color and pattern; embroidery and other types of
needlework; tablet weaving ; and lace making . Construction methods such as
sewing, knitting, crochet, and tailoring, as well as the tools and techniques employed
(looms, sewing, needles, and printing) and the objects made (carpets, coverlets) all
fall under the category of textile arts.

History of Bangladesh garment industry

The history of the readymade garments sector in Bangladesh is a fairly recent
one. Nonetheless it is a rich and varied tale. The recent struggle to realize workers
rights adds an important episode to the story.
Below, we present a detailed narration of the evolution of the RMG sector
from its humble origins to the present day. The shift from a rural, agrarian economy to
an urban, industrial economy is integral to the process of economic development
(kaldor, 1966, 1967). although policymakers in the least developed countries (LDCs)
have , at various times, attempted to make agriculture the primary engine of economic
growth and employment generation, this approach has not worked, not least because
of the dual effect of increasing agricultural productivity in the LDCs and displacing
the rural labor force at the same time. Led by the example of the East Asian
economies, most LDCs now accept the need for greater industrialization as the fastest
path to economic growth. In particular, countries such as Japan, Taiwan and south
Korea have demonstrated that an export oriented industrial strategy can not only raise
per capita income and living standards in a relatively short time; it can also play a
vital role in modernizing the economy and integrating it with the global economic
system.
Bangladesh, one of the archetypal LDCs, has also been following the same
route for the last 25 years. Once derided as a basket-case by Henry Kissinger (the
economist, 1996), the country stumbled across an economic opportunity in the late
1970s. New rules had come to govern the international trade in textiles and apparel,
allowing low-cost suppliers to gain a foothold in America and European markets.
Assisted by foreign partners and largely unaided by the government, entrepreneurs
seized the opportunity and exploited it to the fullest. Over a period of 25 years, the
garments export sector has grown into a $6 billion industry that employs over a
million people. In the process, it has boosted the overall economic growth of the
country and raised the viability of other export-oriented sectors.
The essay analyzes the processes by which global trading rules came to help
out a poor country like Bangladesh. it demonstrates the impact of the rule3 changes
on the garments sector, and the response of the sector to multiple challenges and

197

obstacles, it also discusses what steps Bangladesh should take in order to deal with the
full liberalization of the international garments trade, which occurred in January 2005
and which could potentially threaten the countrys growth prospects, finally it details
some of the recent developments that have occurred since liberalization took effect.

Garments terms and definitions:

Across shoulders:
It is the measure of straight across back of garment, from one shoulder/
armhole point to other.
Across back:
It is the measure of straight across back of garment at midpoint of armhole
seam or edge from one side to the other.
Across front chest:
It is the measure of across front of garment at midpoint of armhole seam or
edge to the other.
Allowance:
When garment is made by adding extra dimension with the net dimension of
the garment is called allowance.
Armhole:
Align front and back armhole seams or edges or edges together. It is the
measure from underarm intersection point up to shoulder along front armhole seam or
edge, following curve.
Approved sample:
According to all the required specifications the sample which is approved by
buyer is called approved sample.
Accessories or trimmings:
Without fabric all are accessories. It includes: therade, button, interlining,
zipper, main label, care label, tissue paper, ball head pin, silica gee bag and so on.
N.S.A= No seam allowance
L.D.C= Least developed country
E.P.B= Export promotion bureau
B.G.W.U.C= Bangladesh garments worker unit council
Bodies:
The portion of the ladies apparels from the neck down to waist.
Blind stitch:
It is a special type of stitch that can not seen from the face side of the fabric
but can easily seen from the back side.
Back stitch:
A kind of hand stitch for sewing appeals, which could also do by m/c
Collar:
It is part of apparel which stays spread around the neck.
Collar stand:
It is apart of the collar which stands vertical along the neck.
Crutch/crotch:
The place or area along which the inside two legs joins together.

198

Color bleeding:
It is the pigment or dye or color of a cloth that is partly gone into the water if
such colored cloth is soaked in water or solvent or suck color or pigment dye come
our from one place to another and is stuck place near by suck characteristics is color
bleeding.
Crease:
Any kind of folding in cloths.
Crocking:
The act of taking out color from the dry and wet cloth by rubbing or scouring.
C & F:
Clearing related with importer and forwarding related with exporter. If the
price of the goods is mentioned in invoice including transport cost then it is called
C&F.
C.I.F:
If the price of the goods in mentioned in invoice including transport cost ans
insurance cost then it is called C.I.F.
Chest/bust:
Garment closed measure straight across front of garment at lowest point of
armholes or at specified level.
Counter sample:
The sample which is followed by the approved sample is called counter
sample.
Category:
Category is a number which indicates what type of fabric is used for making
the particular garment and it also indicates the type of this garment.
Drape:
The state or quality of haw a hung end of a cloth comes of when such cloth
comes when such cloth is hung from either end. The texture quality of the fabric
staple kind and also the finishing determine the draping quality of cloth in question.
Drop loop:
The technique of placing belt loop a little below from the upper end of the
waistband of the trouser (normally 1-2 cm). Drop loop stops the possibility of belt
moving above the waist band.
Durable press:
It is a particular kind of finishing treatment by which it is possible to give
specific sharp size and crease to the cloth or the apparel. By virtue of he pleat etc,
could be made permanent and through use and wash of the apparel.
Drape:
It is a character of fabric indicative of flexibility and suppleness. The degree to
which a fabric falls into graceful folds which hung or arranged in different positions.
Facing:
Lining or trim used to protect fabric edges in a garment e.g. collars, cuffs,
plackets.
Fusing:
The term generally refers to partial melting. In bonding, fabrics layers are
joined together by fusion of an adhesive under heat and pressure.

199

Gauge:
In knitted fabrics, it is a measure of fineness or number of Wales per unit of
width across the fabric. Higher gauge numbers indicate finer texture.
G/D:
Abbreviation for grams per denier.
Grain line:
Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. When pattern pieces
are laid down during marker making over the clothm the grain line should be parallel
to the warp if the fabric is woven and wales in case of knitted fabric. Only the
exception is seen for bias cut.
Grading:
When different sizes of patterns are made from the master pattern of the
garment is called grading.
Handle:
It is a characteristic of fabrics that is perceived by touching, squeezing or
rubbing them.
Hip:
At a specified level down from waist seam and garment closed, measure
straight across garment, from one edge to the other.
Interlining:
Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of
fabric in garments to support, re-enforce and control areas of garments and to retain
actual shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing and bonding.
The fabrics which are used ads interlining is made from cotton, nylon, polyester, wool
and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its properties i.e. shrink
resist finish, crease resist finish.
Inseam length:
Along inside seam of leg, measure from crotch seam down to bottom edge of
leg opening. Rib/elastic bands included in this measurement.
Lining:
A generic term for fabrics used to cover inner surface of products, especially
the inner face employs different materials from the outer surface.
L/C:
Letter of credit. It is a commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the
Importer in favor of the exporter that the bills drawn by them on the importer
countries covering the shipment of specified items and quality of goods within stated
period will be paid in exchange of documents under certain items and condition.
Line number:
It is unit of measure use in Canada equivalent to an eighth of an
inch(3.175cm). also French unit of measure, now replaced by metric measurements;
was used for measuring ribbon, tape and other narrow fabrics. \it is the measuring unit
of the button. It indicates the diameter of button. If diameter increases, ligne number
also increases.
We know,
11mm diameter = 16 ligne
1mm diameter = 16/11 ligne or 1.46 ligne
Marker:
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a
particular style.

200

Pattern:
It is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications of each and
individual components.
Production pattern:
It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension and allowance.
Sleeve length:
It is the measure from centre back neck seam or edge straight across to shoulder /
armhole point, along sleeves fold line down to bottom edge of sleeve opening.
Sleeve inseam:
Measure from under armhole seam down to bottom edge of sleeve opening
(cuff included), with vent closed (if applicable).
Waist:
Regular waistband or elastic relaxed, garment closed and with front and back
waistband edges even at the top, measure across the middle of waistband or along
elastic relaxed, from one edge to the other.
Working pattern:
It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension.
Production pattern= working pattern+ allowance.
Sequence of garments manufacturing:
Operation
01. design/ sketch

02. Basic Block

03. Working pattern

04. Sample making

05. Basic manufacturing

deference
06. Approved sample

07. Costing

Job
It is given by buyers to
manufacturers containing sketches
including measurements of the
style.
Without any allowance
Assimilating of diagram of net
dimension on paper each and
individual part which is called
pattern and when we move with it
throughout the whole
manufacturing processes. We term
it working pattern.
After getting all the specs the
sample is made and sent to the
buyers for approval to rectify the
faults.
The critical path is identified I.e.
the problems during the several
operations.
After rectify the faults, sample is
again sent to buyers. If it is o.k.
then it is called approved sample.
Fabric required
Making change
Trimmings
Profits

Method
Manual/computerized

Manual/computerized
Manual/computerized

Manual

Manual

Manual

Manual

201

08. Production pattern

09. Grading
10. Marker making

11. Fabric spreading

12. Cutting

Add allowance with net

dimension.
It is done according to different
size.
Marker is a thin paper which
contains all the components of all
sizes of a particular style.
Fabric is spread in a lay form.
To cut fabric according to the
dimension by special type of
cutter.

Manual/computerized
Manual/computerized
Manual/computerized

Manual/computerized
Manual/computerized

Different section in garment:

There are mainly four sections in garments given as follows:
1. Sample section: Design to marker making.
2. Cutting section: marker making to sorting and bundling.
3. Sewing section: Sewing.
4. Finishing section: Ironing / packing.

202

203

History:
Textile printing is the most versatile and important of the methods used for
introducing colour and design to textile fabrics. Early men and women used the
colorants that were available to them, such as charcoal and coloured earths (ochres),
mixed with oils and fats, applying them at first with their fingers and sticks to a
variety of substrates. Staining of fabrics with plant extracts provided a different
approach; patterns could be produced by applying beeswax as a resist to the dye
liquor or by tying threads tightly around the areas to be resisted. The realisation that
certain colourless materials could be used as mordants to fix some plant dyes was a
vital step in the prehistory of dyeing and printing. The discovery that different
mordants, applied first, gave different colours with the same dye (for example, from
the madder root) must have seemed litle short of magical and suggested a style of
printing (the dyed style) that was to become of cardinal importance.
Where this style of printing originated whether in India, Egypt, China or elsewhere
is not clear. Brunello states that an early variety of cotton dyed with madder around
3000 BC was found in jars in the Indus valley. Taylor gives evidence of madder on
flax found in Egypt and dated at 1400 BC. In China the dyeing of silk was developed
very early, and China is credited with the invention of paper printing and therefore
may well have seen the birth of fabric printing.

Textile printing:
The printing is described as localized dyeing i.e. dyes or pigments are applied
locally or discontinuously to produce the various designs. The main objective in
textile printing is the production of attractive design with well defined boundaries
made by the artistic arrangement of a motif in one or more colors.
Duplex Printing
Printing is done on both sides of the fabric either through roller printing
machine in two operations or a duplex printing machine in a single operation.
Stencil Printing
The design is first cut in cardboard, wood or metal. The stencils may have fine
delicate designs or large spaces through which colour is applied on the fabric. Its use
is limited due to high costs involved.
Transfer Printing
The design on a paper is transferred to a fabric by vaporization. There are two
main processes for this- Dry Heat Transfer Printing and Wet Heat Transfer Printing.
In Conventional Heat Transfer Printing, an electrically heated cylinder is used that
presses a fabric against a printed paper placed on a heat resistant blanket. In Infrared
Heat Vacuum Transfer Printing, the transfer paper and fabric are passed between
infrared heaters and a perforated cylinder which are protected from excessive heat by
a shield.
The Wet Heat Transfer Printing uses heat in a wet atmosphere for vaporizing the dye
pattern from paper to fabric.

204

Blotch Printing
It is a direct printing technique where the background color and the design are
both printed onto a white fabric usually in a one operation. Any of the methods like
block, roller or screen may be used.
Airbrush (Spray) Painting
Designs may be hand painted on fabric or the dye may be applied with a
mechanized airbrush which blows or sprays color on the fabric.
Electrostatic Printing
A dye- resin mixture is spread on a screen bearing the design and the fabric is
passed into an electrostatic field under the screen. The dye- resin mixture is pulled by
the electrostatic field through the pattern area onto the fabric.
Photo Printing
The fabric is coated with a chemical that is sensitive to light and then any
photograph may be printed on it.
Differential Printing
It is a technique of printing tufted material made of yarns having different
dyeing properties such as carpets. Up to a ten color effect is possible by careful
selection of yarns, dyestuffs and pattern.
Warp Printing
It is roller printing applied to warp yarns before they are woven into fabric.
Tie Dyeing
Firm knots are tied in the cloth before it is immersed in a dye. The outside of
the immersed portion is dyed but the inside is not penetrated. There are various forms
of Tie dyeing like Ikat Dyeing where bundles of warp and/ or weft yarns are tie dyed
prior to their weaving. In Plangi Dyeing the gathered, folded or rolled fabric is usually
held with stitching to form specific patterns.
Batik Dyeing
It is a resist dyeing process. Designs are made with wax on a fabric which is
then immersed in a dye. The unwaxed portion absorbs the color.
Jet Spray Printing
Designs are imparted to fabrics by spraying colors in a controlled manner
through nozzles.
Digital printing
In this form of printing micro-sized droplets of dye are placed onto the fabric
through an inkjet print head. The print system software interprets the data supplied by
a cademic_Textiledigital image file. The digital image file has the data to control the
droplet output so that the image quality and color control may be achieved. This is the
latest development in textile printing and is expanding very fast. Digital Textile
Printing

205

Printing ingredients:
Type of specific formulation used depends on the fiber, the colorant system
used and to some extent the type of printing machine.
Typical ingredients used include:
1. Dyes or pigments
2. Thickeners
3. Binders, cross linking agents
4. Sequestering agents
5. Dispersing agents
6. Water retaining agents
7. Adhesion promoters
8. Defoamers
9. Catalysts
10. Hand modifiers
Some basic trams and definition:
Thickener:
Thickeners are adhesive substances used in making viscose printing paste in
water. Thickener is used to impart stickiness and plasticity to the printing paste so that
can be applied on the fabric surface without spreading and bleeding and be capable of
maintaining the design outlines under high pressure.
Binder:
A material, usually nearly colorless, that is typically used to attach a pigment
to fabric. Binders are more-or-less glue to hold the pigment in place. Paints consist
of pigments mixed with binders. Many binders used in textile paints are acrylic
polymers e.gMelamine formaldehyde resin.
Wetting agent:
Wetting agent reduces the surface tension, so that dye molecules can easily
penetrate into materials. Wetting agent helps alkali to remove oil, wax from material.
Acid:
A chemical that will produce a pH of less than 7 in water solution
Many acids are used in dyeing. They include acetic acid, citric acid, formic acid,
hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid. Several other compounds, such as sodium
bisulfate and ammonium sulfate form acids in solution through hydrolysis. When
making solutions of acids or when diluting concentrated acids, always add the acid to
water, never the other way around. This is because some acids produce a great deal of
heat when they mix with water - so much that a small amount of water added to a
large amount of acid may actually boil and cause extremely dangerous spattering.
Alkali:
A subclass of base, though often used to refer to any base Partly because the
term basic is often rather confusing, alkaline is often used to refer to solutions
that are basic - having pH greater than 7.

206

Catalyst:
A chemical that speeds up a reaction without itself being consumed in the
reaction. Catalysts are not common in dyeing, but are used in fabric preparation and
finishing
Carrier:
With respect to disperse dyes, a chemical that aids dyeing at moderate
temperature. In order to dye polyester with disperse dye in a reasonable time at the
boil; it is necessary to use a carrier. Exactly how the carrier works seems to be a
matter of some controversy, but it may work by swelling the fibres so that the dye can
penetrate. The carrier will eventually evaporate from the fibre after dyeing is
complete. Carriers are obsolescent in industrial process, partly because they are quite
noxious and environmentally undesirable. Be sure to read and understand the MSDS
for any carrier chemical you contemplate using. {Rev 2.0.0a}
Dyestuff or pigments
Depending on the nature of the fiber on which the printing is done, suitable
dyes or pigments are selected. Pigment color can be used for printing on all types of
fibers. Reactive, vat or azoic colors are used for cotton; disperse dyes for polyester
and acid dyes and basic dyes for wool and silk.
Defoaming agent
Formation of foam during print paste preparation and application is quite
common but should be avoided. Foam may produce specky dyeing. The antifoaming
agents help in foam generation.
Oxidizing or reducing agent
They are used in printing with solubilised vat colors and also in discharge and
resist printing. Discharging agents such as Sodium sulphoxylate formaldelyde
(Rongalite) are used in the discharge printing.
Hygroscopic agents
The function of hygroscopic agents is to take up sufficient amount of water
(moisture) during steaming to give mobility to lthe dyes to move into the fibre. Eg.
Urea and Glycerin.
Dispersing Agent
Dispersing agents are necessary in the print paste to prevent aggregation of the
dyestuff in the highly concentrated pastes.
E.g. Diethylene glycol
Preservatives
Preservatives are used to prevent the action of bacteria and fungus to make it
dilute. Eg. Salicylic acid.
.

207

Fixation methods
1. Atmospheric steam
treatment at 212 degrees f with saturated steam
used with
- Direct dyes
- Vat dyes
- Napthol dyes
- Acid dyes
- Cationic dyes
- Reactive dyes
festoon steamer most common equipment
Acid agar for acid dyes
2. Pressure steam
treatment at 230 degrees f under pressure
used with disperse dyes
Turbo-autoclave most common equipment.
3. High temperature steam
treatment with superheated steam at temperature up to 420 degrees f
used with disperse dyes and pigments
can also be used as an atmospheric steamer
4. Dry heat
treatment with dry heat at temperatures up to 420 degrees
used with disperse dyes and reactive dyes.

Classification of screen printing:

Screen printing

Flat screen printing

Rotary screen printing

Hand screen printing

Semi auto screen printing

Fully auto screen printing

208

Organogram:
GM

AGM

Manager

Production officer (shift 01)

In-charge (per shift)

Supervisor (per shift)

Senior operator (per shift

Operator (per m/c)

Helper (per m/c)

Production officer (shift 02)

In-charge(per shift)

Supervisor (per shift

senior operator (per shift)

Operator (per m/c)

Helper (per m/c)

209

M/c layout:
Washing place

Screen
pre. room

Dirk roo
m

Chemical room

Screen store

Table-1
3

Table-2

Flat screen
Printing
2

1
Table-5

Table-3

Table-4

Manager room

210

Steps in printing process

1. Preparation of print paste
2. Printing of fabric
3. Drying
4. Fixation of dyestuff
5. Washing off

Sequence of printing:
Count garment parts
Screen preparation
Printing paste preparation
Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked
portion
Printing the garment part by using screen
Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow
Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800
c
Inspection is done in qualify control department

Screen Preparation
For Flat Bed Screens
A piece of nylon bolting cloth or metal gauge (phosphobraze) is stretched and
nailed to strong wooden frame, strengthened by metal brackets at the corner. The
frames are usually 26 x 55 (measured externally) and 23 x 52 (measured
internally) for printing45 wide cloth. When metal frame is used for making the
screen, the bolting cloth maybe fixed to the frame by using a solution of polyvinyl
acetate in a suitable solvent.
Photochemical method is the most widely used method for preparing screen.
This is based on the principle that when a coating of solution ammonium dichromate
gelatin or ammonium dichromate polyvinyl alcohol is dried and exposed to light,
Insolubilisation takes place. The photosensitive coating may be given to the bolting
Cloth, fixed to the screen frame, dried and exposed to light after keeping in contact
with a positive film and after insolubilisation of exposed portion, the unexposed

211

photosensitive coating may be given to the bolting cloth, fixed to the screen frame,
dried and exposed to light after keeping in contact with a positive film and after
insolubilisation of exposed portion, the unexposed photosensitive coating is washed
out leading the blocking of the interstices of the cloth at the exposed portions and
keeping them open (for forcing of the print paste later while printing) at the
unexposed portion. The sensitizing solution may be prepared as follows:
Chrome Gelatin Solution A
200 g pure gelatin
500 g boiling water
700 g Solution B
70 g Ammonium dichromate
150 g boiling water
80 g liquor ammonia
300 g Solution A and Solution B are mixed in dark room.
Chrome-polyvinyl alcohol solution
600 g polyvinyl alcohol (15% solution)
120 ml ammonium dichromate (33% solution)
240 ml cold water
1 litre with cold water
After applying the solution to the screen cloth, it is dried in the dark room at
room temperature. The positive of the design is placed on a glass-topped table and the
dried photosensitive screen is placed over it. The exposure is started from under the
glass table using mercury vapor lamp or fluorescent tube lights with uniform intensity
of light all over the screen. The screens are then washed in the dark, first with hot and
then with cold water. The hardening of the insolubilised chrome-gelatine complex is
done by placing the screen in a solution containing.
50 g chrome alum
50 g formaldehyde
25 g sodium dichromate
1 liter
For 5 minutes at room temperature, washed with cold water and dried. In the
case of Chrome-polyvinyl alcohol complex, the hardening is done in a solution
containing,
50 ml acetaldehyde
50 ml Isobutyraldehyde
80 ml water
20 ml sulphuric acid (168 Tw)
1 litre with cold water
It is boiled at 15 to 25 degree C for 1 to 2 hours. It is then washed with cold
water and dried. (Ref: PRINTING PROCESSES AND MACHINERIES, 1st
edition by Mr.Praveen D. Nagrajan)

212

Preparation of printing paste:

First the required thickener paste is made prior to prepare printing paste. The printing
paste is traditionally made by weighting out and, if necessary, dissolving the colorants
and auxiliary chemical then stirring them into the required weight of pre-prepared
thickener. Then the pre- prepared thickener is added to the colorants solution and
mixed well to prepare printing paste. Generally, weight of the ingredients of the
printing paste is calculated on the basis of 1kg/100g
Typical pigment print formulation:
Chemical
Pigment
Dispersing agent
Soap/oleic acid / ammonia
Defoamer
Latex (binder)
Casein
Carbopol
Solvent
Water

dry weight
10%
3%
2%
1\10%
5-10%
1%
1-2%
2%
77%

Types of printing used in Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Hand screen printing
Flat screen printing
Foil printing
Flock printing
Hand screen printing:
Material required:
Printing table (100-200 m 1-1.5m)
Screens (1-3 color)
Bed on the printing table
Back grey
Fabric to be printed
Squeeze
Drying system under the table
Hand washing in a tank or washing

Hand screen printing:

Process:
Printing is carried out on a flat, solid table covered with a layer of resilient flat
and a washable blanket (coated with neoprene rubber).
The fabric to be printed is laid on the table and stuck to the blanket directly
with a water soluble adhesive.
Alternatively the fabric is combined with a back gray.
The screens must be positioned carefully on the fabric.

213

The area printed by a screen (screen repeat) must fit exactly alongside the
adjacent one.
Now print paste is taken on the screen.
Force this print paste through the open areas of the screen with a flexible,
synthetic rubber squeezer
The rubber blade is drawn steadily across the screen at a constant angle (about
400) and pressure.
Two strokes of squeezing given better result.
Two very even print 4 strokes are also done.

PROCESS OF SCREEN PRITING

SCREEN PAPER SIDE

ORIGINAL PRINT

SCREEN SQUEEZE SIDE

PRINT ON FABRIC

214

215

Flat bed pressure m/c:

216

In this m/c the glue is applied in liquid form by a squeegee, while in other
machines the belts are pre-coated with thermoplastic glues. In this case the textile is
heated and then it is squeezed by a roller or simply pressed against the rubber-coated
belt, causing the glue to soften and instantly adhere.
After printing, the screens and the application system are washed out. It is
common practice to squeeze the color from the screens back into the printing paste
mixing containers before washing them. Specially developed Screen printing machine
for Flat printing application
Features
These flat screen printing machines are extensively used for printing on flat surfaces
like-Metal, Glass, Paper, Board and PCB. These are highly cost effective as these
require less power. The salient features are as below:
Pneumatically drive.
Low noise
Printing table with X, Y and Rotation for accurate registration.
Printing table with powerful Vacuum to hold the substrate on to its
positionhile printing.
Maximum Substrate height 40 mm.
Squeegee /coater pressure with fine adjustment.
Angle can be set as per requirement.
Applications
Letterhead, wedding cards printing
Stickers printing
PCB printing
Metal sheet printing
Glass printing
Scale printing
Printing on Plastic plates
T.V Cabinet
Washing machine panels
Industrial control Panels
Membrane switches
Battery containers
Umbrella panels
T-shirts
Coaster printing
Container lids
Tube light fittings
Speedometer dials
Car stickers

217

218

ETP
Montex Fabrics Ltd. has newly joined for textile service among the world.
This is fully export oriented knit composite Textile industry. This manufacturing
industry deals with so many known buyers like H&M, G-Tex, AMC, and Hense and
so on. This manufacturing industry is well organized with maintaining all the
compliance and environmental issue. They established a biological Effluent
Treatment Plant with latest technology. They treated 180 meter cube of effluent per
hour. Their wet processing unit is of 18 ton/day capacity. For the better quality they
use a high liquor ratio than the suggestion of dyeing machine manufacturer. So they
have to treat more effluent than the theoretical demand. Effluent character of Montex
Fabrics Ltd. is discussed;
Mainly they use following chemicals for wet processing:
1. Detergent (non-ionic).
2. Anti creasing agent.
3. Hydrogen per oxide.
4. Caustic soda.
5. Soda ash.
6. Common salt
7. Glaubers salt
8. CLR ( known as organic exhausting agent for dyes)
9. Per oxide killer.
10. Washing off agent.
11. Acetic Acid.
12. Softener.
13. Anti foaming agent
14. Optical brightener.
15. Hydrose
16. Strong alkaline soap (NSR).
Without these they use a lot of chemicals those vary due to order requirement.
They use only two types of dyes; reactive dyes & disperse dyes. Dyes and chemicals
are soluble in water or in colloidal state. Some of suspended solid like wastages are
also flow with raw effluent. They are mainly cotton fibers flocks or the yarn. The raw
color of effluent is brown/ blue / black. All the liquors are coming through same drain
of wet processing unit. So rinsed liquor, dye liquor, soaping liquor, scouring liquor,
acid liquor all are getting mixed from the very beginning. The temperature, pH, BOD
& COD of raw effluent liquor is given in the following table. In Bangladesh basically
these four criteria are controlled for textile effluent.

219

Basic characteristics of raw effluent

Sl
NO

CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS
PARAMETERS

1.
2.
3.
4.

pH
Suspended solids
Biological Oxygen Demand(BOD)
Chemical Oxygen Demand(COD)

UNIT

AMOUNT

mg/L
mg/L
mg/L

8.2
200-400
180
417

PHYSICAL CHARECTERISTICS
5.

Color

Brown to black

6.
7.

Odour
Temperature

Not distinct
48

Picture of raw effluent

220

THE BIOLOGICAL METHOD FOR TREATING

TEXTILE EFFLUENT
Nature recovers a lot of pollution from the very beginning of earth. As the
energy transfer from one stage to another by means of different action, bacteria are
very much essential living being of earth. It helps us a lot to prevent pollution.
Actually when wastages can not control by the environment then that wastages are
termed as pollutants. In textile wet processing basically organic compounds are used
to control process. How ever inorganic compounds are also essential. Mainly two
methods are applicable to remove such organic compounds one is by coagulation
which is followed by flocculation and to sediment. And another is degradation of
organic compound by means of bacteria. Here mainly organic compounds are used to
be the food of bacteria nothing else. Here sludge are formed which are sediment by
means of gravity. Later the sludge are separated and deposited in sludge tank. But
bacteria can not control the pH value and can not reduce the chemical oxygen demand
(COD). For this manner some of acid addition is required. If acid is not required to
neutralize the effluent it must require for providing acidic medium for bacterial
action. In biological treatment COD is controlled by aeration by means of blower.
The biological method for effluent treating is discussed below according to the ETP
of Montex Fabrics Ltd. Limited.

Aeration tank
Screening

sludge returning tank

Neutralization tank
Picture: cross section of screening to aeration tank.

Equalization tank

Storage tank

221

Screening:
Screen is the synonyms of filtration. Here action is nothing but the filtration or
separation of suspended solid from the liquor or raw effluent. Separately three
screening chamber is used to filter suspended solid. Drain from two different units has
a net of iron having 1 sq. inches of each hole. It separates the different foreign
materials like bulk of trees, leaves, polyethylene bag etc. picture will describe better.

Picture: filtration of suspended solid by iron net

To treat 100 cubic meter per hour, here three screening chamber are used.
Suspended solid which can pass through the first filter are finally filtered here. The
screen has around 250-300 slits per sq inches. This screening system has automatic
wiping action with four wipers or brush. Cotton fibers, yarns with the liquor are
deposited on the screen and raw effluent passes through the slits. This is a simple
filtering method. The screen is curved around 90 degree angle (ie, quarter part of
circle). Curved screen provide a strong control of wiping by rotating wiper. Materials
deposited here are calculated for a cubic meter effluent load, which is, 276 mg. there
is a tray just above the screen in which suspended solids are deposited.
Suspended solid

Picture: deposition of suspended solid from the screen

222

Wiper is rotating at an interval of 9 minutes for 3 minutes at 1.5 rpm speed. Its
rotation speed duration of pause is regulated on the basis suspended solids load. The
next picture will provide a clear conception.
Tray deposited suspended solid
Screen

Picture: Screening of raw effluent.

Raw effluent
Wiper
After screening of raw effluent raw effluent is stored in storage tank.

Storage tank:
Raw effluent is stored after screening in the storage tank. There are two
storage tanks. Delivery of raw effluent from storage tank is carried out by means of
submergible pump. It has an automatic lifting plan to deliver raw effluent into the
next section of ETP. This automation is programmed according to the effluent load in
the storage tank which ensures an uniform flow of effluent for every section. The
pump gets off automatically after lifting a certain volume of effluent which is varied
according to effluent load. In each turn this lifting pump arrangement is allowed to
discharge 50 cubic meter of stored effluent. In between two storage tanks there is a bipass channel. Through which stored effluent can pass from one store to another. Bipass is used when any of the lifting pumps is off for maintenance.

223

Pictures: storage tank 1& 2

Picture: delivery from storage tank.

Equalization chamber:

Pictures: equalization tank

224

The term equalization means to make equity. Here equalization means to form
an identical effluent of different characteristics. The effluent comes from storage tank
are mixed homogeneously. The effluents from different stages like scouring, dyeing,
soaping etc. are mixed homogeneously here. Thats why it is also termed as
Homogenizing chamber. The treatment of equalization chamber is basically
depending on character of effluent. Here temperature of effluent is decreased. This
chamber equalized with respect to its characteristics, homogeneity, flow and a
uniform pollution load as well as to make bacteria acclimatized.
In this ETP two vertical agitator and flow jet are used homogenize to mix the
effluent. These two agitators are not using as they can not carry any advantage for the
treatment. Water jet is carrying out the mixing action continuously and it is placed at
the bottom of the chamber. If the mixing is not accomplished homogenously then it
will hamper the further treatments resulting inefficient treatment.
As the temperature of the effluent is higher than the atmospheric temperature
it is necessary to be reduced to meet the temperature demand of the bacterial action as
well as the environment.
The volume of effluent treated is 2000 cubic meter. Here no cooling
mechanism is added as this chamber possess 200 sq meter of open area which is
directly in contact with air. Again the effluent is treated here for 20 hours which is
another reason for the effluent being cooled. So the cooling action for the effluent is
carried out naturally. It should be noted that the movement of molecules provide
reduction of their internal energy. Due to the flow jet the effluent keeps on flowing
which results the reduction of the thermal energy thereby dropping temperature.

Neutralization Chamber:

Neutralization refers to preparing neutral. Here neutralization stands for

neutralizing the effluent solutions pH value. First of all we are discussing about pH.
A term used to express the intensity of the acid or alkalinity source. pH represents the

225

effective concentration (activity) of hydrogen ions (H+) in water. This concentration

could be expressed in the same kind of units as other dissolved species, but H+
concentrations are much smaller than other species in most waters. The activity of
hydrogen ions can be expressed most conveniently in logarithmic units. pH is defined
as the negative logarithm of the activity of H+ ions:
pH = -log [H+]
Where [H+] is the concentration of H+ ions in moles per liter (a mole is a unit
of measurement, equal to 6.022 x 1023 atoms). Because H+ ions associate with water
molecules to form hydronium (H3O+) ions, pH is often expressed in terms of the
concentration of hydronium ions. In pure water at standard atmospheric temperature,
H3O+ and hydroxyl (OH-) ions exist in equal quantities; the concentration of each is
1.0 x 10-7 moles per liter (mol/L). Therefore, pH of pure water = -log (1.0 x 10-7) = -(7.00) = 7.00. Because pH is defined as log [H+], pH decreases as [H+] increases
(which will happen if acid is added to the water). Since pH is a log scale based on 10,
the pH changes by 1 for every power of 10 changes in [H+]. A solution of pH 3 has an
H+ concentration 10 times that of a solution of pH 4. The pH scale ranges from 0 to
14. However, pH values less than 0 and greater than 14 have been observed in very
rare concentrated solutions.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (U.S. EPA) sets a secondary
standard for pH levels in drinking water: the water should be between pH 6.5 and 8.5.
But the Department Of Environment (BD) suggests the pH value in between 6- 9.
Very high (greater than 9.5) or very low (less than 4.5) pH values are
unsuitable for most aquatic organisms. Young fish and immature stages of aquatic
insects are extremely sensitive to pH levels below 5 and may die at these low pH
values. High pH levels (9-14) can harm fish by denaturing cellular membranes.
Changes in pH can also affect aquatic life indirectly by altering other aspects
of water chemistry. Low pH levels accelerate the release of metals from rocks or
sediments in the stream. These metals can affect a fishs metabolism and the fishs
ability to take water in through the gills, and can kill fish fry.
In cotton dyeing industry effluent is always alkaline then water in nature. So it
is required to reduce the pH value. For reducing, acid dozing is essential according to
the pH and effluent character.
Here in this ETP no acid dozing is required for neutralizing. As the effluent
possesses a standard value of pH ie, 8.2 where as the standard value of pH is 6-9
(Recommended by DOE) for treated effluent. But there is a pipe line for acid dozing.
If the pH value rises than the limit 8.9 then automated acid dozing will be started.
This automation is controlled at panel board. In panel board there is an alarm to
inform operator. However from the beginning of ETP they did not need to apply acid
for neutralization. This due to their high liquor ratio at every stage of wet processing
and washing water, rinsing water, dyeing water etc. are directly discharged to ETP. It
should be informed that they use a lot of water for rinsing purpose. In neutralization
tank effluent is kept for 6 minutes and volume of effluent is 10 cubic meter.

226

Sludge return tank:

First of all we are discussing about sludge. The settable solids separated from
the effluent during sedimentation (clarification). This is simply the degraded part of
polymers. The sludge is very toxic in nature and needs to be dealt with very carefully.
Under no circumstances it should be mix with the environment again Sludge return
tank is not common among biological effluent treatment plans. How ever it brings
profit for a knit dyeing unit. We know that effluent discharging from knit dyeing unit
possesses low quantity of food for bacteria. For that manner here developer decided to
recycle the sludge. Here not only sludge is returned but also food for bacteria is also
provided. And Sulphuric acid is also given here. As for bacterial action pH around
6.5.

Picture: sludge return tank

Nutrients delivery
Sludg returning
Acid dozing

In sludge return tank sludge, nutrients and acids are given for the bacterial
action. It is about 60 cubic meters in volume. And effluent is treated here for 36
minutes. As nutrient urea is provided, at 2.706 gm per cubic meter of effluent, TSP at
1.875 gm per cubic meter of effluent and 98% pure sulphuric acid at 72 cc per cubic
meter of effluent.

227

Picture: sludge return tank.

Effluent flows from neutralization tank to sludge return tank by means of two
pumps. This addition of sludge return is a beneficial step for environment. And
quality of treatment results best by means of bacteria. If the sludge does not return
then a significant amount of bacteria may die due to food, as a result bacteria can not
get when it requires. Sludge returning helps bacteria to run its life cycle. It should be
noted that manufacturer demanded that sludge is a poor food for bacteria then the
polymeric compounds found in effluent. As knit dyeing process possesses less BOD,
thats why sludge retuning is essential. But bacterial treatment can not degrade dyes
totally.

Aeration tank:
In aeration tank basically aeration is occurred by means atmospheric air. Air
from atmosphere is firstly filtered then blower sucks them and flows air to the
aeration tank through 860 diffusers. There are three blowers are used to perform their
function. Every blower is running for 16 hours in the set of two. And every blower
pauses blowing for 8 hours every day. Usually two blowers are running all the time to
blow 1500 cubic meter of fresh air per hour. 860 diffusers are uniformly distributed
around the 470 sq meter area.

228

air filter
blower
Picture: blowers for aeration.

Picture: aeration system to tank

Picture: Cross sectional view of aeration tank.

Diffusers are kept at bottom of the tank floor. Blower takes air from
atmosphere and then it passes though pipe to the diffusers. Then diffusers supply air
as well as oxygen to the effluent. These blowers possesses the 25% cost of the plan.
Blowers are highly stronger than the normal. These blowers are micro chipped
program with the reader JUMO GMBH (it is a dissolve oxygen reader). When the
dissolved oxygen comes up to 7.6 mg/L then the inverter of blowers motor worked to
reduce rpm of blower.
These are the description of plan for aeration tank. Now the question how does the
function of air? This aeration does nothing but increase the quantity of dissolve
oxygen. 4700cubic meter effluent is treated here for 47 hours, its a huge time. During
this time oxidative chemicals are liked to fill up their oxygen demand from the water.

229

Thats why increasing amount of dissolved oxygen is required to meet the demand.
Without this the aquatic life in this tank ie, bacteria demands oxygen which is also
filled up by this dissolved oxygen.
These are all about air, at aeration tank. During aeration bacteria is also
involved to degrade effluents. Next chemical reactions will describe better.

The bacterial action:

COHNS
Energy

+ O2 + Bacteria + TSP & UREA

CO2 + NH3 +
+

Other

end

Products
TSP and Urea is used as food for the microorganism
COHNS + O2 + Bacteria
C5H7NO2

C5H7NO2 (new bacteria)

+ 5O2

CO2 + NH3 + 2H2O

Apart from the above basics reaction there are some other reactions that take place in
the aeration tanks. During aeration the oxygen reacts with C, S and N which is shown
below.
C + O2
CO2
S + O2

SO2

N + O2

NO2

230

Picture: the aeration tank

Picture: the delivery from aeration tank

Oil separation is an important part of an effluent treatment plan. Every where

this kind of simple technique is used. In picture the oil separation technique is
described. We know that the oil is lighter than water due to density. Here effluent
passes through these two pipes. These are pipes having too many holes. Holes are
started from the bottom to 8 meter of this tanks height. But the height is 10 meter.
This results the effluent to pass just below from the liquid surface. So lighter oil cant
passes but the liquid water with sludge can pass through the holes. As a result oil is
floating at the surface. When a significant amount of oils are layered then manually
these are removed from the tank to the sludge tank.
Aeration tank of this plan play the chief role for treating effluent. Here
polymers are degraded, but only biodegradable polymeric chemical compounds can
be degraded. Manufacturer of this plan may appreciate for this simple technique but

231

for environment dyers must need to use selective chemicals. But it is appreciated for
knit dyeing industries as the knit dyeing process possesses almost eco friendly
chemicals. But for printing like industries, effluent characters can not support this
type of effluent treatment plan.

Lamella clarifier:

out let of treated effluent

Picture: Lamella clarification
inlet of
effluent
(Red line shows the effluent entrance direction & the green shows the treated
effluents exit direction)
This is a special kind of clarification system of sludge from treated effluent.
Mainly sludge is denser than the water, which results its sedimentation at the bottom
of the chamber. There are eight units for clarification they are separated from each
other by thin tin sheets. It has eight clarification chambers. Treated effluent comes out
through over flow and the sludge sediment at the bottom of lamella clarification
system. From aeration tank effluent with sludge comes through pipe which is joined
with the lamella clarification chambers.

Cross sectional view of Lamella clarification system

Effluent with sludge
Effluent without sludge
Sludge

232

Wiper
Outlet of sludge
Drain
Sludge
Wiping ground
Lamella
Filtration tanks ground

Outlet

Tin walls

Shaft and motor arrangement for wiping

The cross sectional view of the lamella clarification system is representing two
chambers only and the rest follows the same principle. Here the figure shows that
after the input of effluent from the aeration tank it passed to the chambers through
inlet pipes due to gravity. The ground of the chambers is sloped down to ease the
sludge through the sludge holes. The flow rate through the sludge hole is much lesser
than the inlet flow due to the followings.

The hole is much narrow than the width of filtration tank.

The layers of deposited sludge at the hole.
Very short area between the sludge outlet and the wiping ground.
Wiper is rotating at very low rpm (1 revolution/12 minute).
Sludge return time from the Lamella sheets is very short.

These reasons cause an effective upward flow of the effluent. The lamella sheets
are parallel to each other and inclined with the wall at an angle of 45 degree. This
arrangement of lamella clarification provides sludge down ward action to the ground
of tank which results passing of effluent without sludge. Thus sludge sedimentation is
occurred by the lamella clarification system.
Effluent without sludge is over flowed above the tank due to the hydraulic
pressure involving in the tank. According to Department of environment Bangladesh

233

this effluent without sludge is dischargeable to environment. But internationally some

standard demands colorless effluent. For this manner manufacturer of this plant
suggest an ozonization treatment for discoloration. So we may not mention this
effluent as treated effluent. Over flowed effluent without sludge is then passed to
ozonization chamber.
Sludge wiping technology is very simple here. Wiper is rotating at .0833 rpm that
is 1 revolution per 12 minute. Sludge deposited on eight different place on the wiping
ground. In the circular wiping ground there is a blank space for to fall down sludge
which are wiped up. And from there marshy sludge is pumped in to the temporary
sludge tank. The following picture will describe better

Sludge tank:
Treated effluent directly goes to the ozonization chamber and the sludge goes
to sludge return tank through pump and pipe arrangement. Here sludge is recycled. If
the sludge concentration rises at 70% then the sludge is deposited at sludge tank. The
concentration of sludge is measured regularly from the liquid of aeration tank
delivery. The flow of sludge is marked at next picture

234

sludge
deposite
here before
returning

Sludge tank

Lamella chambers
Picture: Marooned line shows the path of sludge returning to a temporary sludge
tank from where sludge is delivering to sludge returning tank or to sludge tank.
The passage for sludge is under grounded. Magenta arrow shows the pipe to
sludge retuning tank. Green arrow shows the under grounded drain to the
ozonization chamber.
Sludge concentration measurement is too simple. In sludge measuring cone
effluent from the aeration tank delivery is taken and then it is kept on a table for 15
min. if the sludge sedimentations rises up to 70 then its concentration is 70%. The
sludge concentration of this plant is recorded 45% as its highest concentration. When
the concentration of sludge rises to 70% then sludge is allowed to sediment at sludge
tank. In sludge tank there is a sand filtration system in which 2 feet of sand layer is
kept and above that sand sludge is deposited. At the ground of tank there is a pipe
arrangement with filtration which allows effluent without sludge passing to the
ozonization tank. This is all about sludge tank.

235

Ozonization:
It is a new technique for discoloration. Ozone gas is prepared at first then it is
passes through the effluent without sludge. Due to business secrecy manufacturers are
not like to describe its machine principle. Here we can learn one thing that is ozone is
used to discolor effluent.
The chemistry of this principle is very simple. We know that pie bond is responsible
for hue in dyes. By means of ozone gas this pie bond is broken down.
O
R-C=C-R + O3

R- C

Picture: the ozone chamber and the discharged effluent

After ozonization the effluent is totally color less which is mentioned as treated
effluent. After this treated effluent is directly discharged to the river Hatu bhanga
through a cannel.

Results of Effluent Treatment (biological)

236

SL
NO.

Effluent Quality
parameters

Concentration Concentration
present in raw
present in
effluent
treated
effluent

mg/L

Bangladesh Quality Standard at

Discharge

mg/L

Public
Swear at
secondary
treatment
plant
(WASA)
mg/L

Inland
surface
water

Irrigated
land

mg/L

mg/L

pH

8.2

6.5

6-9

6-9

N/A

Biological
Oxygen Demand
(BOD)

180

16

50

250

100

Chemical Oxygen
Demand (COD)
Time

417

42
200
67 hours 12 min

400

400

3
4

Costing:
Chemical cost per day = 6650 tk
Power cost per day= 78 tk
Man power cost per day= 1000 tk.
Total = 7728 tk per day.
They processed 1800 cubic meter per day so cost per cubic meter= 3.22 tk

237

Advantages of biological method:

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

It possesses a low maintenance cost.

It can process colorless water.
It is highly modernized with the latest technology.
Its mechanism is simple enough.
Theoretically it is simple as well as practically.
It is best for the effluent treatment plan for any kinds of textile industries.

Disadvantages of biological method:

1. It has a very high fixed cost around 50000000 tk rather than the physico
chemical method
2. Treatment through this method possesses a huge area around 30 kathas.
3. Non-biodegradable chemicals can not treat here.
4. Its maintenance needs skilled professionals.
5. Dyer needs to select chemicals with respect to its effluent treatment.
6. It possesses relatively high treatment duration around 67 hours 12 mins.

Remark

Well.

238

239

Maintenance:
The act which is done to Keep the factory plan equipments machine
tools etc. in an optimum working condition, minimize the break down of m/c's to
improve Productivity of existing m/c tools and avoid sinking of additional capacity
and to Prolong the useful life of the factory plant & machinery is called Maintenance.

Objectives of Maintenance:

To Keep the factory Plants, equipments, Machine tools in an optimum

working condition.
To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to
customer.
To keep the downtime of Machines to the minimum thus to have control over
the production Program.
To Keep the Production cycle within the stipulated range.
Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance

Mechanical
Maintenance

Electrical
Maintenance

Break down
Maintenance

Mechanical
Maintenance

Electrical
Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance:
In Montex Fabrics Ltd the Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine
activity to ensure on tome inspection or checking of facilities to uncover conditions
that may lead to Production break downs or harmful depreciation.
Break down Maintenance:
In this case, repairs made after the equipment is out of order and it can not
perform its normal functions.
Montex Fabrics Ltd. follow the above two types Maintenance.
Manpower set up for Maintenance:

240

For electrical Maintenance:

Per shift:
B Sc. Engineer - 3
Diploma Engineer 4
Senior Technician 5
Junior Technician 6
For mechanical Maintenance:
Per Shift:
B Sc. Engineering - 2
Diploma Engineering - 3
Senior Technician 2
Junior Technician 4
Maintenance Tools & Equipments and their functions:
Pliers
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts
Pipe threat Cutting Tools
Function: To Cut the threat in Pipe.
Girding M/C
Function: For grinding & Cutting of mild steel.
Welding M/C
Function: For welding & Cutting.
File
Function: For Smoothing the Surface.
Pipe Cutting Tools
Function: For Pipe Cutting.
Hole Punch
Function: Punching the hole.
Grease Gum.
Function: For greasing of moving Parts of M/C
Hammer
Function: For Scaling & right angling
Divider
Function: For circle marking on metal & wood
Easy Opener

241

Function: To open the broken head bolt

Heavy Scissor
Function: Cutting of gasket & steel sheet
Bearing Puller
Function: To assist the Opening of bearing from shaft.
Pipe Range
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Pipe Joint
Oil Can
Function: Oiling of moving Parts.
Drill M/C and Drill bit.
Function: For Drilling.
Hacksaw blade.
Function: For metal Cutting.
Handsaw (wood)
Function: For wood Cutting
. Combination tools (Spanner)
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts.
Socket Ratchet set
Function: Tightening of Nuts & bolts.
Slide Range
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts & bolts
Grinding Stone.
Function: For smooth finishing
Grinding Paste
.Function: For easy Cutting of metal

242

Maintenance Procedure:
Normally Preventive Maintenance is done here. During Maintenance Procedure
following Point should be checked:
Maintenance: Mechanical
Machine: Dyeing M/C
Serial
Item need to be checked & Serviced
1
Creasing the winch bearing
2
Complete cleaning of Machine
3
Cleaning of drain Valves, replace scales if required
4
Check air supply filters, regulators and auto drain seals
5
Clean filters element and blow out
6
Greasing of unloading roller bearings
7
Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox
8
Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing
9
Checking and cleaning of main vessel level indicator
10
Check the oil level of Pump bearing and refill if required
11
Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves
12
Check all belts and belt tension
Maintenance: Electrical
Machine
: Dyeing
Serial
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
16
17
18
19
20

Item needed to be checked and serviced

Check & Clean fluff and dirt at all motor fan covers
Check all motors
Check Main Panels boards
Check Panels Cooling fan & clean it filter
Check all circuit breaker , magnetic contractors and relays
Check Main Pump inverter and its Cooling fan
Check Current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over Loads
Visual Checking of all Power & Control & Cables
Check all Pressure switches
Check Calibration of Main vessel
Check DC drive of kneel motors
Check Calibration of all additional tank
Check all Pneumatic solenoids
Check Calibration of Heating / Cooling
Check setting & operation of lid safety switches
Check all emergency switches
Check all indicating Lamps
Check all On / Off switches
Check all Signal isolators
Check Key Pad & display of Controller
Check Proximity Switches

Remarks:
When I was trainee of Montex Fabrics Ltd. then I saw that the Maintenance
staffs and overhead of Maintenance department were skilled enough and efficient.

243

244

Inventory
Inventory is stock or store of good. Inventory management is a vital part for
any factory because smooth production as well as cost of storage depends on it.

Function of Inventory:

To smooth production requirement

To meet anticipate demand
To protect against stock outs
To take advantages of order cycles
To take advantages of quality discounts

The type of inventory carried in this factory as followso

o
o
o
o

Gray fabric
:
Own knitted or imported
Dyes and chemicals : Local or Imported
Spare parts
:
Local or Imported
Packing materials
:
Local or Imported
Finished fabrics
:
Good or Rejected

Procurement System:
`

Dyes (mostly used like Sunfix, Sunzol, Dianix Remazol, Megaperse dyes) and
chemicals (regular items like Sequestering agent, Anti creasing agent, Caustic,
Stabilizer etc.) are imported from CHINA, GERMANY & INDIA ,KOREA6.
Crystal salt and Soda ash is purchase from local distributor.

Scope of Inventory Control:

Raw materials inventories

In process inventories
Finished goods inventories
Maintenance, repair and operational inventories
Miscellaneous inventories

245

Type of inventory Department primarily responsible:

Import Gray Fabric

Marketing

Gray Fabric Local

Production

Dyes & Chemicals- Imported

Marketing

Dyes & Chemicals- Local

Production

Spare parts & Consumables

Maintenance

Finished Goods

Marketing

Inventory System for Raw material:

In Montex Fabrics Ltd. there are different inventory systems for
different raw materials.

Grey Fabric Store:

All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store near the batch section. Different
types of fabric are listed in the sheet according to fabric types, quantity and
consumers requirement.
Dyes and Chemicals store:
There is a different store for dyes and chemicals. Varies types of dyes and
chemicals are stored here according to dyes and chemicals companies. Different types
of dyes and chemicals are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes and
chemicals are also included. Every day the sheet is updated and a copy of this sheet is
supplied to the dyeing manager, dye house and lab section.
Finished goods store:
In Montex Fabrics Ltd. supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments
section. So, dyed finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All
the delivered fabrics are noted on the tally khata according to the lot no, quantity,
fabrics diameter, buyer's name, color & considering other technical parameters.

246

Spares part store:

In Montex Fabrics Ltd. required amount of spares of different machines are
stored in the mechanical store room. All the spares are listed in a sheet which is
controlled by the mechanical & maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the
store room according to their size, quantity & requirements. There are shelves in the
store room to keep the small spare parts.
Frequency of Inventory Control:
-

Daily inventory control

Weekly inventory control
Monthly inventory control
Yearly inventory control

Re order Point:
The re-order point is stated in terms of level of inventory at which an order
should be placed for replenishing the current stock of inventory. Re order quantity
depends on the lead time of the product with some additional safety period. It also
depends on the store capacity of factory. For example if the lead time of a product is
two month then normally re ordering quantity may be for two and half months.

Basic Procedure of Production Planning and Control:

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is complete within
the required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning
gives a scheduled task and control completes it successfully. But production planning
and control is not an easy task. Its basic working procedure is as follows

Taking order from marketing division.

Analyzing the orders.
Planning for knitting the fabric.
Planning for dyeing the fabric.
Planning for finishing the fabric.

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes
the order is placed only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then
some steps are minimizing for planning.
Taking order from marketing division:
Marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and control division
by a specific format.
Analyzing the orders:
After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to
buyers order quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.),
delivery date etc. This section plans for required quantity of fabric to be knitted (order

247

quantity + 10% of the order quantity), knitting balance, fabric to be dyed, dyeing
balance, RFD (ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery balance
etc.

Planning for knitting:

This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric,
no of m/c to be used, type of yarn used, from which source yarn will be collected,
required GSM, width etc. It also gives delivery date of knitted fabric.
Planning for dyeing the fabric:
Production planning for dyeing is called Batch plan. Batch plan is prepared
according to the batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of
delivery etc and written in a batch card.
Planning for finishing the fabric:
Finishing schedule are same as the dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the
finishing section with the batch plan. Finishing data is written to the batch card and is
informed to the planning section. However, this section always forces to all the
departments to finish all the work within the delivery time given by the buyers. Thus,
it plays a very important role in the success of the company.

Reactive Dye:
BRAND
NAME

COUNTRY
NAME

DY-STAR.

GERMANY

IMPOCOLOR

GERMANY

NAME OF DYE STUFF

Remazol Blue RR
Remazol Yellow RR
Remazol Deep Black GWF
Remazol Red RR
Remazol Turquoise Blue G
Remazol B/Yellow3GL
Remazol Blue BB new
Remazol Orange RR
Remazol Blue RSPL
Levafix Rubine CA Gran
Levafix Red CA Gran
Levafix Olive CA Gran
Levafix Fast Red CA Gran
Levafix Brillant Red E-4BA Gran
Dianix Navy CC
Dianix Turquoise S-BG
Imcozin Blue E-NR
Imcozin Blue V-CR 150%
Imcozin Brilliant Red V-F3B
Imcozin Brilliant Yellow V-4GL

248

BENZEMA

SWITZER LAND

CLARIANT

SWITZER LAND

HUNTSMAN

SWITZER LAND

JIHUA

CHINA

SUMIFIX

JAPAN

SUN COLOR

KOREA

Imcozin Yellow E-3R 150%

Bezaktive Blue S-GLD 150
Bezaktive Yellow S-3R 150
Bezaktive Red S-3B 150
Drimarine Yellow K-4G Cdg
Terasil Red W-4BS
Terasil Navy W-RS
Novacron Red FN-R-01
Novacron Yellow F-4G
Starfix Black B 150%
Starfix Red EP 150%
Sumifix Supra Blue E-XF
Sumifix Supra Yellow E-XF
Sunfix Navy Blue MF-D

Different Types of Chemicals Used In Mondol Textile Ltd. With Their Brand
Name:

CHEMICAL NAME
Wetting agent
Levelling agent
Anti-creasing agent
Per Oxide Stabilizer
Caustic
Soda Ash
H2 O2
Optical Brightening
Agent
H2O2 Killer
Acetic Acid
Sequestering Agent
Enzyme

BRAND NAME
FELSON NOF
AD,DPE,TUBIFIX
MFL
Kapazon H-53
CBB
Rucorit Wez
Caustic
Soda Ash
H2 O2
Uvitex-BMA
Uvitex-BHV
Uvitex-BBT
Syno White 4Bk
OEM
Acetic Acid
MS
SIRIX 2UD
ANTOX(Y.D)
BIOPOLISH,AVOCEF

COUNTRY NAME
Germany
China
Germany
Germany
China
Chaina
Chaina+Korea
Switzerland
Korea
Germany
India
China
India
China

249

Electrolyte / Salt
Detergent
Soaping Agent

Softener
Fixing Agent

Disperse Dye

BIOPOLISH -B41
Sodium Sulphate
Anhydrose
Glubar Salt
PCLF,RGO,RGN
SCF
Rukozen-NZA
Dekol ISN
Cyclonon XEW
Nerosoft-JS(an-ionic)
Nerosoft-NI(non-ionic)
Purrustol-IMA
Sandofix-EC
Protan FCE-375

Srilanka
India
Germany
India
Germany
China
China
Germany
Germany

Black EX SF
Yellow K 4GB
Blue KFBL
Crimson-XFT
D-Red-XFT
Orange-HWT
Blue BBL
Orange F-3R
Red KRB
Yellow GG

Remarks:
Montex Fabric Ltd. has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods, etc.
There is not enough space to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the store
area. In Montex Fabric Ltd. the store for inventory control is satisfactory. Sometimes,
they fluctuate from ideal process otherwise they are okay.

250

251

Costing of the Product:

The following points are considered for costing the product in Montex Fabric Ltd.
1. Cost of fabric or garments or cost of yarn per dozen garments
2. Cost of accessories pre dozen garment
3. Cost of transfer from factory to sea port/ air port
4. Clearing and forwarding cost
5. Total utility cost
6. Commission or profit
The above process are applicable incase of sending goods to abroad
Knitting charge for different types of fabrics
Fabric type
Single jersey
Rib
Interlock
Auto stripe
Lacry s/j
Pointal rib
Fleece
Lacry rib
French terry

Rate (taka) per kg

13
20-22
25-28
110
32-38
55-65
32
32-38
27
Dyeing cost:

Shade
White
Black
Light shade
Medium
Dark
Turquish color

Rate (taka) per kg

35
105
35
35-40
50-60
80
Finishing cost:

Slitting
Stenter
Compactor

8
18
12

Remarks:
The cost of raw material of product and the cost of m/c charge is not much but the
other fixed and variable cost increased the total cost of the product.

252

253

Utility Services
Utility Facilities Available: in Montex Fabrics Ltd
Utility
Electricity

Source
RDB & Generator

Gas

TITAS

Compressed air

Air Compressor

Steam

Boiler

Water

Pump

Temperature Control

A/C Chiller

Electricity or Power
Source:
1. Generator
2. RDB (Rural Development Board)
No of generator: 04
Equipment used:
1. Gas generator
2. Diesel generator
Gas
Gas is mainly used for steam production
Gas is bought from TITAS
Generally 36cubic meter gas is required to produce one ton steam.
Steam
No of boiler: 03
Type of boiler: Fire tube boiler
Water
Source: ground water
Hot water: 430 cubic meters come from pump per hour and central fot water reservoir
which contains hot water of 800c.
Cold water: 300 cubic meters come from pump per hour and underground reservoir
tank to store cold water.

A/C chiller

254

The machine by which water is cooled down below its normal temperature is called
chiller. It is used to control the temperature and humidity. Medium used here water.
Others
Electrical wirings: here the electrical wiring system is bus bar tanking system where
copper plate is used for electricity transmission instead of copper wire.
Pipeline: here there are different pipeline in the floor.
1. For high pressure steam
2. For return steam
3. For pressure balance
4. For hot water and cold water
5. For compressed air
Equipment Name
generator
Nos.
Manufacturer
Power Systems
Model
7100GSID
Volts
RPM

Gas

: 02
:
Waukesha
:

UHP

: 415/24 hr
: 1000

Gas generator

Generator
Type
Generator
Brand Name
Origin
Model No
Rated Power
Maximum Current
Engine R P M : 1500
Volt

: 02
:Diesel
: Perkins
: India
: 350 E
: 350 KV
: 274 KV
: 400

Diesel Generator

255

Boiler: Steam generator or boiler is usually a closed vessel made of steel. There is
three boilers in Montex Fabrics Ltd.
Function: Boiler function is to the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (Gas) to
water and ultimately to generator steam. The steam produced may be supplied in wet
processing department for
Heating cylinder dryer
Steaming during dyeing
Objects: For supplying steam.
Types of steam:
Wet steam
Dry saturated steam, and
Superheated steam.

In wet steam is used for the relevant processes.

Boiler No
Brand Name
Origin
Type
Capacity
Pressure
Temperature
Fuel

: 01
: COCHRAN
: Scotland
: Fire tube boiler
: 8 ton per hour
: 5 bar
: 188 C
: Natural Gas

Boiler No
Brand Name
Origin
Type
Capacity
Pressure
Temperature
Fuel

: 02
: COCHRAN
: Scotland
: Fire tube boiler
: 7 ton per hour
: 5 bar
: 180 C
: Natural Gas

Boiler No
Brand Name
Origin
Type
Capacity
Pressure
Temperature
Fuel

: 03
: COCHRAN
: Scotland
: Fire tube boiler
: 8 ton per hour
: 5 bar
: 188 C
: Natural Gas

256

Compressed Air
The compressed air is supplied from air condition from air compressor. There
are two air compressors in Montex Fabrics Ltd.

Compressor No: 01
Brand Name
Origin
Model No
Serial No
Maximum working pressure
Average working pressure
Free air delivery
Normal shaft power
Rotational Shaft speed
Gross weight
Year of Construction

: COCHRAN
: Scotland
: GA 34 FF
: TT 254070
: 10 bar
: 6-7.5 bar
: 54 liter / second
: 34 Kw
: 3000 r pm
: 480 kg
: 2000

Compressor No: 02
Brand Name
Origin
Model No
Serial No
Maximum working pressure
Average working pressure
Year of Construction
Volt
Frequency

: COCHRAN
: Scotland
: S361694
: 546206
: 10 bar
: 6-7.5 bar
: 2000
: 400
: 50 Hz

Cost of different Utilities:

Electricity Cost:
Gas generator = 2.70 TK/KW- HR
Diesel generator = 6.50 TK/ KW-HR

Gas Cost: 4.94 TK/m3 for boiler

3.66 TK/m3 for generator
4.6 TK/m3 for domestic Purpose

Steam Cost:
4.20 TK/ m3 Kg fabric
Remarks: For smooth running of factory main utilities like gas, electricity or steam is
very essential. Sometimes gas pressure is low than required pressure. When the gas
pressure is low, then diesel generators run. Government should have to ensure proper
gas supply for Industry.

257

Conclusion
Montex Fabrics ltd. Is a well planned versatile project. The administrations
management chain of command all are well organized. They are devoted to satisfy the
customer with their activities.
Montex Fabrics ltd has following excellent features, which are worth
mentioning in this conclusion. These are

The dyeing process of Montex Fabrics Ltd is very quick & accurate. It
is amazing that with only 16 ton m/c capacity montex fabrics ltd. is
capable of 18 ton production daily. Furthermore very limited amount
of re- dyeing is carried out in montex fabrics ltd, which proves the
excellence of the dye house.

Montex Fabrics ltd. has a very good labor management policy which
enables the smooth running of the production line.

The dye- house is very clean with excellent working atmosphere due to
plenty of air circulation and planned layout.

Montex Fabrics ltd. has following drawing backs,

Due to shortage of textile engineers, night shifts some time continue

production without ant production officer. As a result in some case
quality level drops.

University has given me the chance to perform the industrial attachment in

montex fabrics ltd. This attachment acts as a bridge to minimize the gap between
theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly this attachment taught me more
about textile technology, industrial management and production process. Besides it
gave us the first opportunity to work in an industry. I believe that, the experience of
this industrial will help me in my future career as a textile engineer

258