BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY

OF TEXTILES

M.Sc In Textile Management

Course Name: Marketing &
Merchandising of
Textile & Apparel
Course Teacher
Md.Ahashan Habib
Asst Prof., Dept. of Textile Engineering
Management
Bangladesh University of Textiles.

Time and Action (TNA)

calendar
Structure of TNA: Normally
merchandisers
prepare a plan of the order in a
spreadsheet
by listing down the key processes in
first
column and planned date of action for
each

process in the next column. This

planning
sheet is popularly known as time and
action
calendar (TNA). Once TNA calendar is
made,
then it can be easy for merchandiser list
down
their daily 'to do list' and taking it one
by one.

Importance of TNA
It helps to streamline the pre-production
activities.
Easy understanding of order processing.
Clear understanding of timelines given by
buyer.
It gives the clear idea about the minor or sub
activities
that need to perform during order processing at
different level.
TNA gives the idea about the status of running
order
and talks about delay or deviation, if any

 TNA gives the dates at which raw material

need to be
sourced, in a way it helps to optimise the
inventory.
TNA also reduces the risk of delivery delay.

Factors need to be considered

while
preparing TNA
Production capacity of plant
Style type of merchandise
Festivals of manufacturing country
Holidays
Shipment details
Festivals of country from where raw
material is
imported
Logistics facilities

 Lead time estimated by buyer

Factors (Contd.)
Style complications
Fabric and trims manufacturing
complications
Buffer required from each department
Political stability of the country
Flexibility of freight forwarder
Response time from buyer at different
stages
Lead times of various activities like L/C
payment,

custom clearance, etc

Cut off dates for shipments

Time & Action Calendar

SL
1

Time Frame
01.03.2014

2
03.03.2014
goods &

Action to be taken
Received Master L/C. for an Export Order
To receive proforma Invoice for piece

accessories
3

08.03.2014

To Open Back to Back L/C for fabric

4.
09.03.2014
accessories

To Open Back to Back L/C for trims &

10.03.2014

To submit fit sample to buyer

15.03.2014

To receive fabric samples from supplier

15.03.2014

To received trims & accessories sample

16.03.2014

To received comments on fit sample

18.03.2014

To submit size set sample to buyer

10
23.03.2014
sample

To receive comments/approval of size set

11.

25.03.2014

Ex-factory of fabric

12

25.03.2014

To submit PP sample to buyer

SL

Time Frame

Action to be taken

13

26.03.2014

Fabric supplied from supplier port

14.

30.03.2014

To get approval of PP sample from buyer

15

9.4.2014

To receive trims & accessories at store

16

10.4.2014

To receive fabric at store

17

11.4.2014

Inventory control to ensure all goods in place

18

12.4.2014

Fabric cutting start

19

13.4.2014

First production rum commences

20

16.4.2014

To submit production samples to buyer

21

18.4.2014

To start finishing of garments

22

18.4.2014

Receipt of cartons at store

SL

Time Frame

Action to be taken

23

20.4.2014

Cartoning commences

24

23.4.2014

Sewing Complete

25

24.4.2014

Finishing Complete

26
25.4.2014
complete

Pre-Shipment Inspection

27

25.4.2014

Ex factory of merchandise

28

27.4.2014

Handing over to shipping line

29

28.4.2014

Shipping of goods

30

29.4.2014

To send shipment confirmation

documents to buyer

Sampling

 Sample: A few item or goods taken

from a
large number of similar goods are called
sample.

Sampling: Sampling is the most

technical
feature of the merchandisers job. This
involves

developing new products or taking some

existing
products to the new customer to meet the
customer demands..

Sampling process
1. Getting buyer requirement:

Getting

Buyers query

On reception of the request

from the buyer, merchandiser
evaluates the request.

Clarify the sample specifications

with the help of R&D people.
If OK
Checking possibility:
o If not possible, buyer should be

Sample Preparation
Evaluating Results
Packing

and Dispatch

informed instantly.
o If possible, its completion and
dispatch date is to be confirmed
to the buyer ASAP keeping in
view all processes time.

Buyers Feedback

 2. Sample Preparation: After doing the

necessary calculations, merchandiser
first
checks whether such sample in stocks
or not?
In case of sample already present in
finished
stocks in the right quantity and quality,
then he
can informed the buyer about the dispatch
date in
this regards

 In case, Merchandiser does not have any

sample
available, he will forward the sample
request to
the relevant department.

 3. Evaluating results: merchandiser gets the

results
from the Quality Control lab and compares it
with the
standards specified by the buyers. If the
sample results
are consistent with the desired results, the it
can be
sent to the buyer.
4. Sample packing and dispatch: the sample is
properly
packed for its safe arrival at the destination.
For the

sample dispatch, the merchandiser sends the

sample
via courier and puts complete detail along- with
the
sample for buyer reference.

5. Seeking buyers comments: Once the

sample
reaches the buyer, merchandiser gets
the
comments from the buyer and keeps
records
of it.
If sample is approved, then he go for bulk
production.
If reject , required rework according to buyer

comments.

Types of Samples

Prototype sample
Fit sample
Size-Set sample
Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample
Approved samples
Pre- production sample: (PP sample)
Production Samples
GPT sample (Garment Performance Test)
Photo Samples
Counter Samples

 Prototype samples: These are samples

developed during the preliminary stages of
product development. They are made by
similar
but not always exact fabrics & trims. But
must be
made as per buyer sketch, specification
sheet.
Size-Set Samples: A sample of each size
is
required by the buyer after giving
comments on

Prototype Samples. Size-Set samples are

requested to check the accuracy of each
size
pattern.

 Fit sample: Fit sample is made and

send to
conform the fit of the garment on live
models
or on dummy and for approval of
construction
details.
Sales man / Marketing /Showroom
sample: :
These are the samples used by the
buyer for
promotion or sale of their product. It is a

special order from buyer. These are

required
in exact fabrics, shades and
accessories. More
quantities are required in this case and
payments are made by the customer.

Approved samples: Upon approval of

the preproduction samples by the buyer, they
will be
sealed and tagged with comments if
necessary. The approved pre-production
samples is called approved samples.
Pre- production sample (PP
sample): Must be
in actual fabrics, trims and accessories.
Bulk

fabric cannot be cut until these samples

are
approved by the buyer.

Production Samples: Representative

samples taken
from a production line on random basis by
buyers
representative is called production sample.
A production samples approved and accepted
by buyer
may represent shipment samples.
GPT sample (Garment Performance Test):
The main purpose of GPT is to perform the
physical
and chemical testing on garment to ensure the
performance of the garment.
The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage,
Color

Fastness, Seam performance etc. Garments for

GPT
sample can be done along with Size Set
sample.
Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party
inspection
and results are sent to both factory as well as
buyer.

 Photo Samples: These samples are

photographed for making brochures,
catalogs,
etc for distribution to stores and for
end-use.
Counter Samples: Sometimes required
approved samples in different
departments
but there is only one approved samples.
So

merchandiser can reproduce a number

of
samples against the available approved
samples.

Requirement of Sample Submission

Sample type
Color
Prototype
Any Color
available
Size-Set
Any Color
Available
Salesmen
Requested Color
Pre-production &
Actual Color
Testing
Product/Shipment
All Colors

Fabric
Closest
Closest
Actual
Actual
Actual

Types of Samples (Fabric)

Fabric Samples are also required by the
buyers
and are to be approved prior starting
the
production. Below are the phases of
fabric
samples:
New Development swatches
Testing Samples
Pre-production samples

Production Samples

1. New Development Swatches:

a.
b.
c.
d.

New Shade
New Fabric
Specialty Product &
Specialty Finishes

2. Testing Samples: Testing fabric

samples are
required to be approved from an
external lab
recommended by the buyer. The bulk

production is not allowed to be stared

unless
the fabric is approval by that lab.

 3. Pre-Production Samples: Pre-Production

Samples are required to be approved from
first
bulk lots of each fabric and shade. The
bulk
production is not allowed to be until preproduction samples are approved. These
samples
are also asked by the buyer to be tested
by the
external recommended lab.
4. Production samples: Production
samples are

required by the buyer to see what he/she

is going
to get in the actual shipment. These are
sent as
the shipment is ready for dispatch.

Requirement of Sample
Sample Type

Quantity

New Development

A4 Swatch

Testing
Pre-Production
Production/Shipment

02 Yards
01 yard
01 Yard

Sample Display
The samples are usually displayed in the
following ways:
Garments Hangers
Swatch Books for fabrics

Sampling Documents
There are some reports along-with the
sample
to be sent to the customer.
A. Covering letter
B. Specification sheet
C. Sample tag

 Covering letter: In covering letter,

Merchandiser mentions the below
details:
The name of company which asks the sample
Contact person
Phone no of destination
The brief description of the sample
The weight and quantity of sample

Specification sheet: In specification sheet,

Merchandiser
mentions the technical aspects of the sample with
quality
lab results. Example- Knitted Garments T-Shirt:

GSM of Fabric
Fabric Type
Dimensional stability
Color Fastness
Pilling
Half chest
Garments length
Sleeve length
Armhole
Shoulder with etc.

 Sample Tag: The sample Hang-tag is

attached
to the fabric/garments. It can contain
the
following information:

Sample Number
Garment style #
Composition
Fabric/Garments type
Shade
GSM
Price

Trims and
accessories

Trims and accessories

To fulfill the design objectives we need
different kind
of materials. Fabrics are the main material,
which
used for garment manufacturing. We need
other
materials also, which make the garments
aesthetic,
functional and commercially required. Usually
other
than fabrics these material used for making
garments

are called trims and accessories.

Trims
The raw materials used in sewing room
other
than fabric are called Trims. On the
other
hand materials are directly attached
with the
fabric to make a garment are called
trims.
Like: Threads, buttons, lining,
Interlining,

zippers, labels, care labels, etc.

(Interlining is
used as shape forming / preserving
materials.)

Accessories
The materials, which are used to make a
garment
attractive for sale and packing, other than
fabrics
and trims, are called Accessories.

List of Trims and Accessories

Trims

Accessories

Labels

Poly bag

Buttons

Elastic bag

Zippers

Mini Poly bag

Padding

Master Carton

Interlining

Inner Carton

Down

Size Clip

Elastic

P.P.Band

Thread

Tag Pin

Twill Tape

Brass Pin

Stopper

Collar Stand

String/Draw Cord

Safety Pin

Trims
Piping Cord
Emblem
Logo Print
Swivel Hook
Eyelet/ Grommet
Collar Stay
Cord Bell
Buckle
Rivet
Weaving Belt
Hook and Eye

Accessories
Gum Tape
Arrow Sticker
Scotch Tape
Barcode
Defect Indicator
Tissue Paper
Back Board
Neck Board
Butterfly
Numbering Stickers
Hanger

Finishing Accessories
Main Label
Size Label
Wash care label
Polybag
Carton
Sewing Thread
Gum Tape
Flag Label

Trims, Closures, Accessories

Buttons
Buttons are small plastic or metal disc
shaped, usually round, object. They are
generally attached to an article of clothing
.
Types of buttons:
1 According to line no .There are various
types of buttons.Ligne is the measuring
unit of button diameter .To maser the
outer diameter of button we use ligne no
1 ligne = 0.025 or 0.0635 mm
The button sizes are
a16 L b.18L c.24L d.12L e.28L f .32L g.36L

2. According to the no of holes:

There are three types of button.

A) 2-hole button
B) 4-hole button
C) Special button (a) shank button (b) snap button (c) decorative
button used in
sleeve.

3According to material:

According to the manufacturing material there are the following types

of button
Plastic button:
This button are made of polyamide, polyester,polyacrylonitrite etc.they
are cheap,
not glossy and widely used in shirt.
Metal button:
They are used in denim pants, trousers etc.
Wooden button:
They are used in decorative and functional purpose
Horn button:
They are made up of horns of animals used in shirt, pants. Artificial
horns are also
used which are made up of nylon ,plastic and additives.
Chalk button:
It is used to make plastic glossy, used in shirt.
Printed button:
They are used only in decorative purpose.

Zippers
Zippers are devices for temporarily
joining two
edges of fabric or other material. They
are
used in clothing , luggage and other
bags,
sporting goods, camping gear such as
tents
and sleeping bags and many other daily
use

items. They are made of various

materials
including metal, plastics, nylon etc..

Types of zipper
Tooth zippers
Teeth are equally visible on both sides of the
zipper tape. Every tooth is separate. They are
perfect for most straight applications like jackets garment bags
and
totes.
Coil zippers (nylon)
Flat on one side with teeth on the other. Each
tooth is connected to the next and bend easily.
Use for backpacks, sleeping bags and tents. Shorter
lengths can be used in purses and totes.
Invisible zippers
Hidden in a seam with only the pull tab showing. They
are flexible and strong. Use an invisible zipper foot to
insert.Use in skirts, blouses, dressesanywhere you
need an invisible closure with a smooth finish.

Slider in Zipper
It is move up and down. Function of
slider is
to engage or disengage the teeth of
opposite sides of chain.
Slider mainly three types they are:1. Non locking.
2. Semi-looking.
3. Full or auto locking.

Lace
Lace is an openwork fabric which is
patterned
with open holes. It can be made by
machine
or by hand. Originally linen, silk, gold,
or silver
threads were used for making laces.
Nowadays, lace is generally made with
cotton

and synthetic thread. Needle lace is

made by
using a needle and thread.

Webbings
Webbings are strong woven fabrics made in a
shape
of flat strip or tube in variety of widths. They
are often
used in place of rope. These days, webbings
are made
from high-strength material such as Dyneema,
Nylon,
Polyester, and Kevlar. Other materials used for
making
webbings include cotton, polypropylene and
flax.
Webbings are both, light and strong. As such
they are

used in variety of applications including

climbing,
slacklining, furniture manufacturing,
automobile
safety, auto racing, towing, parachuting,
military
apparel, transportation and many other
applications.

Elastic
Elastic (Elastic band) is a longitudinal
elastic
elongation properties flat with narrow
pieces
of fabric, also known as wide-tight
elastic
band. English name translation elastic:
elastic
band. It refers to a stretchy material or
an

item made with this pliable substance.

Types of elastic
Waistband elastics
When applying elastic in a casing, preshrink it before
measuring. If
elastic is stitched on, it does not require preshrinking.
No-Roll or non-roll
An elastic that does not roll or twist. It is a woven elastic with
lateral
ribs. Use it in casings.
Knit non-roll:
A mono filament elastic that does not roll and shows minimal
shrinkage. Use it in waistline casings.
Skirt waistband elastic
An elastic that is designed for a gathered waistline finish. The
lower
edge has a 1/4 inch stitching guid.
Underwear and pajama elastic

An elastic that has a soft stretch and texture to make it

comfortable to
wear against the skin. It is stitched directly to the wrong
side of the
fabric.

Label
Label is an attached component of garment on which
important information regarding the garment are
written or printed. No garment can be sold
without some kind of label attached to it .
There are mainly 3 types of label .
1. Main label
Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer
which is
registered by the buyer .For example Levis ,polo,lee etc.
2. Size label
Size label Indicates the size of garment I e L, M, XL, XXL or
collar
length of shirt 15,16,17,18 etc.
3. Care label
It indicates the care instruction of the garment by some
internationally recognized signs. It shows the washing,
drying,

dry-cleaning, and ironing conditions of garments. The all

other
labels are called sub labels.

Motif
The special component which is attached outside of the
garement for decorative purpose is called motif.
Company name,
trademark or other symbols can be written on the motif.
Hangtags
Hangtags are designed to draw attention to the
garments and are
hung on the side of the garments and sometimes in
front of
button line so that the customers can see them
easily .Hangtags
are printed paper tags hung from the garments by
plastic staple
or string. They usually show the brand name, style no,
etc. It is

regarded as finishing accessories, not sewing

accessories.
Linings
Linings are joined to main garment by sewing and for
this
purpose normal plain swing machines are used. Lining
are widely
used in jackets coats overcoats pockets flaps children
wear etc
.Genaraley cheap fabrics are used as lining material.

Interlining
They may be sewn into the garments or they may be
attached by
the fusing .Nowadays sewn interlining are hardly used and
usable
interlinings are widely used.
Interlining is available in a wide variety of weights and
constructions
to mach the fabric of garment. They can be woven non
woven
product .Woven interlining are most commonly of plain
weave
construction, whereas non-woven interlining are made
directly
from textile fibers and are held together by mechanical
,chemical
,thermal or solvent means or combination of these.

Swing interlining is made by swing .Some plies of fabrics

together
by swing densely then it is joined with main garments by
swing.
Where fusible interlines have coating of thermoplastic
material on
them and are joined to the garment by adhering them with
the help
of pressure and heat. Fusible interlining give better result
then that
of sewn ones.

Buckles
Buckles are clasps used for holding two things
together, such as the ends of a belt. They are
sometimes used to fasten boots and other
shoes or
sandals. They can also be found on backpacks,
watches
and other wrist jewelry, or for decorative
purposes on
other objects. Buckles are usually made of
metal or
plastic. The fashion of custom buckles is on a
rise and
people mostly like to have their name or
nicknames on

buckles. These buckles are prepared with great

care
giving them various finishes like chrome,
rhinestone,
gold color etc.

Rivets
Rivets are mechanical fastener. They consist of a smooth
cylindrical
shaft with a head on one end. The end opposite the head is
called
the buck-tail. For using a rivet, it has to be placed in a
hole. Then
the tail is usually deformed so that it expands to about 1.5
times
the original shaft diameter and holds the rivet in place. To
distinguish between the two ends of the rivet, the original
head is
called the factory head and the deformed end is called the
shop
head or buck-tail. Different types of rivets such as solid
rivets, blind
rivets, multi-grip rivets, grooved rivets, peel type blind
rivets, self-

pierce rivets, plastic rivets, tubular rivets, etc are

manufactured and
are used in various industry. In textile industry, they have
find an
important application in the manufacturing of jeans.

Velcros
Velcros are kinds of hook-and-loop fasteners.
They
consist of two layers. One of its portion is
called
"hook" side, which is a piece of fabric and is
covered
with tiny hooks. The other portion is the
"loop" side,
which is covered with even smaller and
"hairier"
loops. When the two sides are pressed
together, the
hooks catch in the loops and hold the pieces
together.

Velcro can be made of cotton, nylon or

polyester.
Velcro is extensively used in products like
jackets,
gloves, shoes etc. Velcro made of Teflon loops,
polyester hooks, and glass backing is used on
space
shuttles.

Shoulder pad
Shoulder pad is a standard item in
tailored
garments both for women and for men.
Linings are used on the top and bottom
of the
shoulder pad.

Quality of trimmings
Trimmings may be of textile materials or non-textile materials. They should be
selected
carefully to get desired performance. The quality of trimmings are described
below1. Lifetime:
The life time of garments and that of the trimming should be equal .Otherwise
the trimming
will be faded or spoiled by washing, pressing, ironing, rubbing.
2. Shrinkage:
The appearance of the garment may be hampered if the accessories shrink due
to ironing,
washing or pressing. Fore example seam pueker will be result in if the sewing
thread shrinks.
So the shrink ability of the dress material and the trimming should be checked
earlier.
3. Color fastness:
The fastness properties of accessories should be good. The color of trimming
should not be
faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight. The appearance of garment will be
hampered if
the trimming materials are faded.
4. Rust:

Where items are made from metal, the main construction is the problem of
rusting. The
button, clamp, rivets etc may be made up the metals like iron, brass, steel etc .If
rusting occurs they will create spot on garment. So to avoid this problem the
metal trimmings
should be electroplated or they should be made up of non-rusting materials.
5. Comfortability:
Trimming should not create any uncomfortable felling to the wearer .They should
be hygienic
also as to cause no skin disease.

Bands and grommets

beaded

braid

Cords

Eyelet & flowers

Fringe & gemstones

Piping & webbing

Rick rack & venice

Ruffle & lace

Thank you