The Rohtas Fort

By Bushra Naz
Recently I happened to visit the magnificient Rohtas Fort, 130 km on the GT road from
Islamabad to Lahore. Because of its marvellous strength and solidity, it won’t be wrong if
I declare it - the finest specimen of medieval architecture in Pakistan.
Occupying an uneven piece of land, the gigantic fort is founded on steep rocks jutting
into the river Ghan. Being protected on the west and north sides by the river and by high
hills from east and south, it was never taken by assault and survives intact to the present
day.

The fort was built in compliance with the orders of Sher Shah, grand son of Ibrahim
Lodhi. He was Afghan of the Sur section of the Lodhi tribe. It derives its name from
Rohtasgarh fort in Bihar, which Sher Shah Suri captured from the Raja of Rohtas Hari
Krishan Rai. Lying on the old GT road between the North (Afghanistan) and the Plains of
Punjab, the fort was constructed for dual purpose: to block Emperor Humayun\'s return to
India and to suppress the local Ghakkar tribes.

Humayun, son and successor of Zahiruddin Babur, had at the hands of Sher Shah suffered
devastating defeats in two battles, at Chaunsa and Qanaauj, both on the Ganges. He had
to retire to his younger brother Mirza Kamran who held Kabul and Ghazni under his
control. However suspecting deception on the part of his brother, he decided to fall back
on Persia.

The Gakkars tribes were Mughals’ alliance and could pave the way for the Mughal re-
entry. When Sher Shah summoned their boss, the Rai Sarang, who depended upon the
strength of his country in the Koh e Jud, he dispatched the skin of lions and tigers in
reply. This enraged Sher Shah so much that he decided to ravage the Gakkars, saying,
that he would drive such an imperishable spike into the breast of the Gakkhars as should
remain there till the end of time.
It took 8 years to complete the fort. Sher Shah Suri died before completion of this
magnificent structure and it was finished during the reign of Sher Shah’s son and
successor Jalal Khan. Ten years after Sher Shah’s death and the end of the Suri dynasty,
when Emperor Humayun returned to rule India for another 15 years, the Governor of
Rohtas, Tatar Khan Kasi fled. Ironically, Rohtas then became the capital of the Gakhars,
the very people it was designed to crush.
This fort is a successful amalgamation of Afghan and Indian architecture. The elements
of Hindu architecture are Haveli Man Singh, balconies on Sohail Gate and decorations on
Shahi Mosque. The elements of Afghan architecture are use of stone instead of bricks in
building wall and its utilitarian construction since it doesn’t have any living quarters and
has comparatively less decoration. Most of the fort was built with ashlar stones collected
from its surrounding villages.
The fort could hold a force of up to 30,000 men. Due to its location, massive walls, trap
gates and Baolis (stepped wells) it could withstand a major siege although it was never
besieged. The fortification has 68 bastions (towers) at irregular intervals. The terraces in
fort are linked by staircases. The topmost terrace has merlon-shaped battlements.
Muskets can be fired from these battlements. The wall had also machicolations.
Machicolations are small drains that are built into the walls and are used by the soldiers
on the inside to pour molten lead or other hot liquids on soldiers trying to scale the walls.

The fort also resided a mosque called Shahi (Royal) Mosque, the most decorated of the
original buildings of the fort. On the wall of the mosque are beautiful round designs in
which Islamic verses are written. These verses are surrounded by a Lilly going around the
script. The Lilly design was later used by Mughals in Tomb of Jahangir, Tomb of Nur
Jehan and the Shah Burj Gate in Lahore Fort.
There are no palaces in the fort except for a structure built by Raja Man Singh called the
Haveli of Man Singh. It is built on the highest point of the citadel. Near Haveli Man
Singh, there is another one storey structure called Rani Mahal (Queens’s palace). It
originally had four rooms used by Raja Man Singh’s widow sister but only one room
remains standing today. However, the foundation of the four rooms can still be seen
today. The dome like room still standing today is about 20 feet high and beautifully
decorated on the inside and outside. The roof of the room is like a flower. The inside of
the roof is decorated with flowers, geometrical patterns and fake windows.

Although built for purely defence purposes, yet a few of its twelve gates were
exceptionally fine examples of the architecture of that period. The Sohail Gate, deriving
its name after the Sohail Star which rises on this side of the fort, is in fair condition even
today. It houses a rest house, a visitors’ information center and a Museum. Its arches are
decorated with beautiful and simple motifs of sunflower which is repeated in all parts of
the Qila; Shishi Gate derives its name from the beautiful blue glazed tiles used to
decorate its outer arch.
These tiles are the earliest examples of this technique which was later refined in Lahore
Fort by Mughals; Talaqi Gate derives its name from ‘Talaq’ (divorce). According to a
legend, Prince Sabir Suri entered through this gate and had an attack of fever which
proved fatal.
This was regarded as a bad omen and the gate was shut off; Khwas Khani Gate, named
after one of Sher Shah Suri’s greatest general, Khwas Khan, was the original entrance to
the fort because outside the gate lies the old GT Road.
Shah Chandwali Gate was named after a Saint Shah Chandwali who refused to get his
wages for working on this gate. The saint died while still on work and was buried near
the gate; Gatali Gate, faces to the village Gatali Ford (ravine) which is called also Patan
Gatiali or Gatiyalian, was the important point to cross River Jhelum for the Kashmir
Valley; The other gates are Langar Khani Gate; Mori or Kashmiri Gate opening to the
north and faces Kashmir; Tulla Mori Gate, Pipalwala Gate, Sar Gate and the Kabuli Gate
facing Kabul.