Fashion

Merchandising

Assignment: Buying Cycle and time &

action calendar at max fashion
(landmark group) & forecasting

Submitted by,
Devpriya Singh(kol13ap32)
Sumit Mahato(kol13ap14)
Sushmita Verma(kgr13ap15)

DFT Semester-V

INTRODUCTION
Landmark Group is a multinational conglomerate based in Dubai, UAE headed by Micky Jagtiani,
who is the Founder & Chairman of the company. The group is involved in retailing of apparel,
footwear, consumer electronics, cosmetics & beauty products, home improvement and baby
products. The group also has interests in hospitality & leisure, healthcare and mall management.
The group has several in-house brands and also works with other brands, acting as a retailer.
Landmark Group is mainly focused on the MENA region. It also has a large presence in India.
Listed below is the list of countries where the group has a presence (either directly or via
franchisees) UAE (Global Headquarters- Dubai), India, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Bahrain, Oman,
Qatar, Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Pakistan, Libya, Turkey, Yemen, Tanzania, Sudan, Nigeria, Kenya.
The buying Cycle refers to the key events & the processes in which the fashion buyer is involved
in order to buy a garment range for retail or a mail order company. The length of the buying cycle
varies between company to company usually takes a year between reviewing the current seasons
sale and delivering into stores. The fashion industry traditionally splits the year into 2 main
seasons: spring/summer (Feb to July) and autumn/winter (August to January). The figure below
shows the buying cycle followed for a merchandize

The Main Events in Buying Cycle (autumn/ winter)

Sl. No.

Actions

Time Period(approx.)

Review of current season sale

Mid-August

Budget planning

End August

Comparative Shopping

August to September

Directional shopping

August to October

Sourcing for product development

October to November

Range planning

October to December

Garment samples souring for range

November

Pre selection of garment sample

Early December

Price negotiation with supplier

November, December

10

Final range selection

Mid December

11

Placing order for ranges

December , January

12

Pre-production sampling and approvals

January to April

13

Bulk garment manufacturing

April to July

14

Delivery of products to retailer

June , July

15

Purchase by customer

July to September

Description of various Stages in buying cycle:

Fashion Forecasting: Fashion forecasting is the prediction of mood, behavior and buying habits
of the consumer.
Color Forecasting: Color grabs the customers' attention, makes an emotional connection and
leads them to the product. Even when the basic product stays the same, changing the color gives
a sense of something new.
Yarn & Fabric Forecasting: It is not surprising that news about which fabrics are "in" or "out"
plays such a prominent role in forecasting fashion.

Comparative shopping: it is undertaken at the beginning of each season by the buying or the
design team. In this the team looks at the current merchandise in the stores of the competitors
which sell comparable ranges.
Directional shopping: it is the term used for trips to gain inspiration for design concepts for a new
season. Buyers visit cities such as Paris, London, Milan and New York for directional shopping
trips depending upon the companys travel budget.
Garment Sample sourcing for range: Garment samples are bought from different stores as
during directional shopping which resemble the product range of the buyer or some new trend.
Range planning: It is a stage where buyers
define the detail of the range that is to be offered
to the customer in terms of styling, fabric, design,
suppliers and prices.
Pre-selection of garment samples: It is done
after the range planning stage where buyers
present garment samples for the range to their
buying, merchandising and QC teams.
Final range selection: It is done immediately
after pre-selection and buyers usually have
about two weeks for this. It is the busiest time of
the year. Most of the work involves contacting
suppliers to explain changes in the range.
Price negotiation with suppliers: After the final
range is selected, buyers contact the suppliers
and tell them that some garments have been
removed from the range, others added, and existing styles amended so the prices may need to be
re- negotiated if garments have been shortened, fabric changed or trims removed.
Confirmation of order to suppliers: After the price negotiation is done, the supplier is selected
and the buyer issues the master L/C to the concerned supplier as confirmation of order.
Proto-sample approval: These samples are to be
made after getting the order sheets. These samples are
needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So
they can be made in available similar fabrics/substitute
fabric in same count and construction but in the actual
measurements and specifications.
Fit Sample Approval: Buyers will ask us to make the fit
samples according to the given measurements. So it is
important to strictly adhere to these measurements. It
can be made in any colour but the fabric should be
same/ substitute fabric in same count and construction.
It is send to the buyer to approve the fit and fall of the
garment.

Size-set Sample Approval: These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims if
available. If the order is for 3 colours and the
sizes are S, M, L then the buyer can ask for
each size in one colour i.e. one size-one colour
or samples in any one colour and swatches
(fabric bits) in other colours.
Pre-Production Sample Approval: They have
to be made in actual production fabric with
actual bulk trims. They will represent that the
production will be like these samples. Vendor
needs to get the approval of these samples from
the buyer before starting the bulk production.
Bulk Garment Manufacturing: After the
approval of pre-production samples bulk
manufacturing starts.
Production Sample: These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyers
confirmation for shipment. Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer
may check these samples for everything or anything.
Shipment of order: Vendor prepares the shipping documents and gives booking to the freight
forwarder for the shipment of garments.
Receiving of product in warehouse: After the garments are ex-factory from vendor they are:

Delivery of product to retailer: After the garments reach buyers warehouse, then from there
garments are sent to respective distribution centres of the buyer in every region then from there to
the retailers warehouse.
Final Product in Store: From retailers warehouse the garments are then sent to the respective
stores for sale to the customers.

Buying cycle at max fashion

Export Order Information
Buyer

Max fashion

Style

Full sleeve Mens Shirt

Order quantity

1,00,000

Lead Time

3 Months

Master L/C receiving date

1th May

Ship Date

1th August

Fabric Production details

Fabric sourcing

Shahi, Gaziyabad.

Production capacity

10,000 meters /day

Consumption of fabric

1.25 meter/garment

Fabric needed

100000 * 1.25 = 125000 meters

Time needed for fabric production

125000/10000 = 12.5 days

Company Production details

Total sewing machines

200

Clock time

8 hours

Total number of machine per line

40

Production in each line

80 pieces/hours

Number of lines

200/40 = 5

Production per line each day

80 * 8 = 640

Total production each day

640*5 = 3200

Time needed for production

100000/3200= 31.25

Time and action calendar for production (Month wise)

SL. No.

Time period

1
2

Action
Colour Forecasting

July August (2014)

International Colour authority (ICA), London

Yarn Forecasting
August- September

6
7
8
9

Yarn Expo- 2014, Beijing, China

Craft Yarn Council of America

Till August End

Till September End

Forecasting Team

Pantone Fashion Colour report, Summer-2014

Related Dept.

Fabric Forecasting

Forecasting Team
Textile Designers
and
Textile
Engineers
Forecasting Team

ITMA ShowTime, USA

Design Forecasting

Forecasting Team

10

CBI fashion Forecast

11

Print Source, Summer 2013, New York

12

Review of current season sale

Commercial Dept.

13

Review of Season sale for the month of

February

Accounts
Dept.
and
team
of
Chartered
Accountants

14

October End

Review of Season sale for the month of March

15

Review of Season sale for the month of April

16

Review of Season sale for the month of May

17

Budget planning

Commercial Dept.

18

Competitive/ Comparative shopping

Buying Team And

Designers

19

Comparative shopping Report Of Flagship

store of Polo Ralph Lauren, next, m&s

20

November/December

Garment
Analysts

Design

Trend Variation Analysis

PROMOSTYL

21

Trend Variation Analysis

PROMOSTYL

22

Comparative Shopping Report Of Flagship

store of Calvin Klein, New York

23

Trend Variation Analysis

24

November to December

Directional shopping

25

November to
January(2015)

Trend Variation Analysis

26

Mid-January

Garment sample sourcing for range

27
28
29

Range planning
January February

Final Decision of the Merchandise to be

Prepared - T-shirt With Hood and Embroidery

Till January end

Pre selection of garment samples

30

Final range selection

31

Full Sleeve T-shirt With hood in Sizes(S,M,L,XL,XXL) In 3 Different Colours,

Brown, Beige And Green

February

34

Design

PROMOSTYL
Buying Team and
Merchandisers
Buyers
Buyers
Designers

February End

Price negotiation with suppliers

Received Export order BID from Buyer.

And

Buyers
Buyers
And
Merchandisers
Merchandising
Dept. ( Buyer)

Full Sleeve T-shirt With hood and An

Merchandising
Embroidery in Sizes From (S,M,L,XL,XXL) In Dept. ( Buyer)
3 Different Colours, Brown, Beige And Green

32

33

Garment
Analysts

Merchandising
Dept. ( Buyer)
Merchandising
Dept.

(Manufacturer)
35

Fixed Price Contract

36

Review of styles, files

37

Graded Marker for average

38

System entries

39

Fabric booking

40

Fabric for sampling

41

Thread Lab dip

42

Closures on styles; design., trims

43

Received fabric sampling yardage from

supplier

44

Received few trim samples for sampling

program Of Garments

45

Submission of proto sample to buyer

46

Will get sample of fabric from fabric supplier

for the approval

47

Will receive. comments from buyer on proto

samples

48

Testing approval of fabric & trims on their

quality

Merchandising
Dept. consisting of
a
group
of
merchants
including
Senior
merchandisers and
his assistants at
export House Carry
these activities

Time and action calendar for production (Date wise)

Date

Action

Related Dept.

1.

01 May 2014

Received order (Buyer)

Buying Dept.

2.

04 May 2014

Received Master L.C(Buyer)

Buying Dept.

3.

05 May 2014

Send P.I(Buyer)

Merchandising
Dept.

4.

06 May 2014

Received sign P.I(Buyer)

Buying Dept.

5.

09 May 2014

Send P.O to Fabric & Trims Supplier

Buying Dept.

6.

13 May 2014

Received P.I from Fabric & Trims supplier

Fabric dept.

7.

13 May 2014

PROTO SAMPLE SUBMISSION

Sampling Dept./
Merchandising

Sl. No.

Dept.
8.

14 May 2014

BASE FABRIC QUALITY SUBMISSION

Merchandising

9.

14 May 2014

TESTING OF FABRIC IN TESTING LAB

Testing Dept.

10.

14 May 2014

PROTO SAMPLE APPROVAL / COMMENT

Quality dept./
Merchandising
Dept.

11.

15 May 2014

BASE FABRIC QUALITY APPROVAL

Planning Dept./
Merchandising
Dept.

12.

18 May 2014

FIT SAMPLE SUB

Sampling Dept./
Merchandising
Dept.

13.

18 May 2014

FIT SAMPLE APPRL

Quality Dept.

14.

20 May 2014

LAB DIP/STRIKE OFF SUB

Sourcing Dept.

15.

21 May 2014

PACKAGNG ORDER DATE

Trims Dept./
Merchandising
Dept.

16.

22 May 2014

LAB DIP/STRIKE OFF APPRL

Quality Dept./
Merchandising
Dept.

17.

27 May 2014

bulk fabric (initial in-house date) start date

Fabric Dept.

18.

29 May 2014

SIZE SET submission DT

Sampling Dept.

19.

27 May 2014

SIZE SET APPRL DT

Quality Dept.

20.

28 May 2014

LAB TEST SUB AND REPORT DT

Testing Dept.

21.

28 May 2014

Processing (Emb, Printing, Finishing etc) start

date

Merchandising

22.

5 June 2014

Processing (Emb, Printing, Finishing etc)

Initial in-house date

Fabric Store Dept.

23.

5 June 2014

Processing (Emb, Printing, Finishing etc)

complete date

Fabric Store Dept.

24.

13 June 2014

PP SAMPLE SUB DATE

Sampling Dept./
Merchandising
Dept.

25.

14 June 2014

BULK FABRIC (IN-HOUSE

DATE)COMPLETED

Fabric store dept.

26.

15 June 2014

PP APPRL DATE

Cutting Dept.

27.

17 June 2014

CUT ORDER PLANING FOR PILOT

PRODUCTION

Production
Planning Dept.

28.

18 June 2014

PILOT PRODUCTION WILL START(100150 PCS)

Production Dept.

29.

18 June 2014

PILOT RUN INSPECTION DATE

Quality Dept.

30.

5 July 2014

PHOTOSHOOT SAMPLE SUBMISION

DATE

Production Dept.

31.

12 July 2014

STITCHING START DATE

Merchandising

32.

15 July 2014

IN-LINE INSPECTION DATE

Commercial dept.

33.

23 July 2014

MID-LINE INSPECTION DATE

Commercial Dept.

34.

31 July 2014

TOP SAMPLE SUBMISSION DATE

Production Dept.

35.

2 August 2014

TOP SAMPLE APPROVAL DATE

Production Dept.

36.

2 August 2014

STITCHING COMPLTE DATE

Production Dept.

37.

3 August 2014

START MAKING SHIPPING DOCMENTS

Logistics Dept.

38.

4 August 2014

PACKING & FINISHING START DATE

Finishing Dept.

39.

5 August 2014

CARGO BOOKING DATE

Shipping Company

40.

10 August 2014

PACKING & FINISHING COMPLETE DATE

Finishing Dept.

41.

12 August 2014

FINAL INSPECTION DATE

Quality Dept.

42.

27 August 2014

EX-FACTORY DATE

Shipping Dept.

43.

28 August 2014

SENDING SHIPMENT SAMPLE TO

BUYER

Merchandising
Dept.

44.

30 August 2014

WILL HANDOVER THE GOODS TO

FREIGHTFORWARDER

Distribution
Network

Forecasting
Steps in forecasting process:
Many forecasting methods are available to health care managers for planning, to estimate future
demand or any other issues at hand. However, for any type of forecast to bring about later
success, it must follow a step-by-step process comprising five major steps:
1) Goal of the forecast and the identification of resources for conducting it;
2) Time horizon;
3) Selection of a forecasting technique;
4) Conducting and completing the forecast;
5) Monitoring the accuracy of the forecast.
Identify the Goal of the Forecast
This indicates the urgency with which the forecast is needed and identifies the amount of
resources that can be justified and the level of accuracy necessary.
Establish a Time Horizon
Decide on the period to be covered by the forecast, keeping in mind that accuracy decreases as
the time horizon increases.
Select a Forecasting Technique
The selection of a forecasting model will depend on the computer and financial resources
available in an organization, as well as on the complexity of the problem under investigation.
Conduct the Forecast

Use the appropriate data, and make appropriate assumptions with the best possible forecasting
model. Health care managers often have to make assumptions based on experience with a given
situation, and sometimes by trial and error. In forecasting, analyzing appropriate data refers to
a) The availability of relevant historical data;
b) Recognizing the variability in a given data set.
Monitor Accuracy
Since there is an arsenal of techniques available, appropriate for different situations and data
representations, health care managers must examine their data and circumstances carefully to
select the appropriate forecasting approach. Be prepared to use another technique if the one in
use is not providing acceptable results.
Forecasting the future demand for particular styles, fabrics and colors is an important aspect of the
fashion industry. Textile specialists work two years ahead to determine the general guidelines for
each fashion season. Fashion forecasting is an important activity to ensure that the process of
observation related to short and long term planning can be based on sound and rational decision
making and not hype. Forecasting can bridge the gap between ambiguous, conflicting signs and
the action taken by the design team. "Fashion forecasting combines theories of fashion changes
with the process of organizing and analyzing the information and synthesizing the data into
actionable forecasts." (Brannon 2000) Forecasting is a creative process that can be understood,
practiced and applied. Forecasting provides a way for executives to expand their thinking about
changes, through anticipating the future, and projecting the likely outcomes. (Lavenback and
Cleary 1981)
Long term forecasting (over 2 years ahead) is used by executives for corporate planning
purposes. It is also used for marketing managers to position products in the marketplace in
relationship to competition.
Short term forecasting is used by product developers, merchandisers and production managers
to give style direction and shape collections. For short term forecasting most apparel companies
subscribe to one or more services, whose job is to scan the market and report on the
developments in color, textiles and style directions.
Forecasters reflect the earliest views on trends some eighteen months in advance of the season.
At this stage, color is a crucial consideration of yarn mills. It is also the focus of discussion among
others who are interested in very early trend decision-making. Fashion forecasters combine the
views emerging about color and fabric from the early yarn and fabric trade shows with their socioeconomic and cultural analysis. Major trends in lifestyles, attitude and culture in particular music,
sport, cinema and television are used to predict changing consumer demands.
Fashion forecasting involves the following activities such as studying market conditions, noting the
life style of the people, researching sales statistics, evaluating popular designer collections,
surveying fashion publications, observing street fashions etc.
The direction of fashion change:
Observation is not enough if the trend forecaster has to take advantage, he needs a framework
explaining how the trend began and its likely path within a social system. The directional theories
of fashion change trickle down trickle up and trickle across to make prediction easier by pointing to

the likely starting points for a fashion trend, the expected direction that trend will take and how
long the trend will last.
Some trend watchers visualize the dynamics of fashion as a pyramid of status level. In some
theories, fashion trickles down from highly visible elite. In others, fashion trickles up from street
once it is discovered by the fashion elite and introduced to mainstream audiences in an edited
version. If a fashion look is promoted by the media and manufactured rapidly enough, the look can
trickle across all levels of the market simultaneously for denim, introduction of an unusual color
range, a modification in a silhouette or detail, a different way to wear an accessory or a mood
expressed in a distinctive style. The pattern of acceptance (or rejection) can be mapped in time.
The Look; Design Concept
As fashion insiders and forecasters have a mental map of the marketplace, the locations where
innovations are likely to be glimpsed early, the supply chain of the textile/apparel industry and the
retail conduct to consumers. Fashion insiders also have another mental map - the map of seasons
and shows. When consumers shop for winter coats or summer swimsuits, fashion insiders are
seasons ahead in their thinking.
Forecasters use these mental maps to organize their observations of directional information. Since
innovations rarely apply to the entire marketplace, information must be tagged for the appropriate
price point, category and classification. In this way, forecasters turn random bits of data into useful
information for decision support, points and style directions

The fashion forecasting process

a) Trend forecasting businesses
French companies based in Paris have traditionally dominated fashion forecasting. Although a
number of larger ones are still based in Paris, many with satellite offices around the world, a
number of new niche forecasters have emerged offering their own specialties of product and
services.
Some better-known trend forecasters include:

SachaPacha
Peclers Trend Union
Line Creative Partners
Au Studio Promostyl
Promostyl

Forecasting is more than just attending runway shows and picking out potential trends that can be
knocked off at lower prices (although that is part of it). It is a process that spans shifts in color and
styles, changes in lifestyles and buying patterns and different ways of doing business. What
appears to be near random activity is in fact a process of negotiation between the fashion industry
and the consumer, and between the various segments in the supply side chain.
b) Consumer research

Manufacturers and retailers may ask consumers directly about their buying preferences.
Consumer reactions are compiled and tabulated to find preferences for certain garments or
accessories, colors or sizes and so on ,or products to fit specific consumer tastes.
c) Colour Forecasting
Stimulating sales is the driving force behind color forecasting. Color grabs the customers'
attention, makes an emotional connection and leads them to the product. Even when the basic
product stays the same, changing the color gives a sense of something new. Color consultants
help companies decide on the right color story to sell the product. Some consultants specialize in
advising on color. Others develop color forecasts as part of their overall product development
function. Some large companies have departments dedicated to setting color directions for
multiple lines. Professional color organizations bring together experts to collaborate on forecasts
for industries like women's wear, men's wear, children's wear and residential and non-residential
interiors.
d) Textile Development
Frequently, the development of a completely new product is the result of a particular functional
need, but often it is driven by the benefits offered by a new fabric. Specialist forecasters make the
point that the technology is changing the range of product, as through the ranges of benefits that
designers can build into garment product through the textiles used in construction.
Fabrics range from slick surfaces like leather and futuristic plastic to softer surfaces like cashmere,
from flat weaves to heavy textures like boucle and from the solid structure of flannel to the weblike open structure of crochet. Clothing has been called "the second skin" in recognition of its
intimate connection with a person's physical and psychological comfort (Horn, 1975). So it is not
surprising that news about which fabrics are "in" or "out" plays such a prominent role in forecasting
fashion. Newness in fabrics comes from the introduction of new fibers, the manipulation of yarn
and fabric structures, variation in pattern and prints and innovative finishing processes. These
innovations are introduced in trade shows and exhibitions held in the fashion capitals of the world.
e) Range of shows
The fashion shows: The word here is its widest possible interpretation to refer to the range of
organised textile and fashion garment trade shows, operating over the 16 months preceding
season. Trade shows, whether yarn, fabric or product have a basic function, which is to sell
products.
Visitors vary according to the nature of the show. A yarn show will attract a range of people
including fabric manufacturers, some retail buyers and designers. The fabric show performs a
more balanced role with great emphasis on then sales of the fabric, but with more retail designers
and buyers attending, as the product on the show has a greater relevance to garment design.
Garment design shows are much more diverse, ranging from the products trade shows through to
the high profile Ready -to-wear Designer shows like London Fashion week and then the exclusive
Couture shows.
Continuing this sequence, specialist product trade shows are held after the fabric shows. These
shows are segmented according to broad sector like men's wear or women's wear, and by
specialist product categories, like sportswear or lingerie. These shows are a good indicator of
color, fabric, styling and new products.

f) Sales Forecasting
Forecasting is relatively easy, straightforward and accurate for products with long lifetime and
steady sales. However, the fashion apparel business is one of the most volatile, because it creates
products that are new, highly seasonal or have short lifetimes. In such situations forecasts become
increasingly inaccurate. Errors in sales forecasting result in two kinds of losses:

Markdowns, when retailers have unwanted goods remaining at the end of a selling period,
such goods then must be sold, even at a loss.
Lost sales on more popular items because of stock outs (merchandise not available in stock
at the time when consumers request it).

f) Introducing Innovation
While attention is showered on the most exciting and extreme runway fashions, the mechanisms
of fashion change work in the background to create patterns familiar to the most experienced
fashion watchers. When an innovation arrives on the scene, individuals consider it for adoption.
The cumulative effect of those decisions can be tracked in sales and visually on the street. In
fashion terms, the innovation may be the invention of a new fibre or a new finish.
g) Cultural Indicators
In the apparel field, companies need an early warning system so that specific product categories
can be fine-tuned to trends within a market segment. While timing is important, an agile and
responsive company will be able to capitalize on trends whenever they are spotted; sometimes
just as a glimmer far in the future and sometimes as a phenomenon in the building stage. Waning
trends are another signal. When some avocation, interest or lifestyle loses cultural power, it is a
good time to survey the information landscape for the next big thing.
h) Final Stage of fore casting
The 'Fashion look' for the season is therefore the result of a process of development that
combines the evolved views of textiles and product trade show, forecasters, designers buyers and
ready to wear shows. Like collage, the final picture emerges after various layers have come
together. Even though these shows have an impact on some last minute high street fashion buys,
their major impact is mainly on reflecting the final views on trends close to the season. Crucially,
the media coverage of the shows is another important dimension in the trend development
process, as it highlights fashion trends that fashion editors believe will be strong for the forth
coming season. Such 'authoritative' coverage of the media, focusing attention on aspects of
fashion, including the 'must-have' looks, colors and products influences the consumers'
acceptance of hot trends for a season.
The Future of Forecasting
For apparel executives, hitting the target requires a balancing act between anticipation of future
developments and improvisation in the face of change.
The marketplace locks into one pattern, holds it briefly and then cascades into a new configuration
with the slightest jar to the equilibrium. In the marketplace, those shifts may correlate with

Changes in taste or lifestyles.

Immigration.

Technological developments.
Shifts in the prices of raw materials.

Thus Fashion forecasting is used within the fashion/textile industry as a means of directing
companies into new ideas of color/fabric/theme/mood and yarn developments for different product
types and levels. Knowledge of trends and future market requirements is increasingly important to
the industry. While there is no definitive fashion story, accessing the right color palette, researching
fabric and styling trends to suit a particular niche and customer profile is essential. The degree and
quality of information available to designers and its interpretation, given an effective marketing
strategy, effectively dictates their success.