Lonely Planet Publications

125

Victoria
Australias smallest mainland state covers just 3% of the country but it is the proverbial
good thing in a small package. Whatever your walking mood, Victoria will almost certainly
cater to it: alpine experiences, razorback ridges, peachy-postcard beaches, moody cliffs and
forests both thick and thin. You can camp alone on alpine summits or you can snuggle

VIC TORIA
into the freshly pressed bed sheets of a B&B at the end of a day. About the only thing you
cant do is suggest that Victoria lacks a diversity of walking experiences.

The Great Dividing Range ends its east-coast journey in Victoria, and though you wont
find the ranges highest peaks here, you will find its greatest array of walks. At the very tail
of the range, rising from the agricultural plains of the Wimmera, there is the rocky heaven
of the Grampians, standing like a sandstone wave.

Along the coast, the Great Ocean Road is only now burgeoning into the sort of walking
destination such beauty demands. And while you might expect the coast between Australias
two largest cities Sydney and Melbourne to be a sprawling mass of humanity, it is as
green on the ground as it is on a map. This coast is lined with national parks, including
a pair of Victorian parks that are among the countrys finest coastal showpieces: Wilsons
Promontory and Croajingolong National Parks offer wilderness and wildlife on tap.

Even close to Melbourne you will find surprisingly dramatic landscapes: Werribee Gorge
cut deep into the land, Mornington Peninsula bays battered by Bass Strait, and the sharp-
ened ridge of the Cathedral Range.

HIGHLIGHTS
Witnessing natures resilience as Wilsons Promontory (p175) sprouts anew from the ashes of
a bushfire
Balancing atop the knife-sharp ridge of the Cathedral Range (p135) as you head for the
lyrebird-inspired Farmyard
Emerging from farmland and bush onto castaway Milanesia Beach (p143) on the Great
Ocean Walk Highlight
Watching sunset light from atop Mt Difficult (p152) in the Grampians
Conquer the highest mountains in the Victorian Alps (p155) with their exposed peaks, pretty
snow plains, rocky crags and tall forests
Seeing wildlife and a wild coast as you walk the beaches of Croajingolong National Park (p180)

TELEPHONE CODE: 03 www.parkweb.vic.gov.au www.visitvictoria.com

 126 V I C T O R I A E n v i r o n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A I n f o r m a t i o n 127

ENVIRONMENT in the highlands and eastern coastal areas. found only in the mallee country, outside Maps
Victoria is like greater Australia in micro- The wetter forests of the south contain the of the areas covered in this chapter. State-wide road maps are easily obtained at
cosm, with desert-like landscapes in its west, tallest hardwoods in the world a tree on specialist map shops, bookshops and news-
extensive stands of temperate rainforest in the Watts River, a tributary of the Yarra, INFORMATION agents. Topographical maps for walkers are
the east, mountains in between and strings was measured at 132.6m in 1872, and is still When to Walk published by the state governments map-
of beaches along the length of the coast. listed by Guinness as the tallest tree ever Like much of southern Australia, the most ping agency, Geospatial Information, in the
The southern reaches of the Great Divid- recorded (the area is now closed as catch- comfortable walking times are spring and Vicmap series. All but the far northwest
ing Range, which runs east to west through ment, so the tree may still be standing). autumn, though Victoria is a perennial corner is covered at 1:25,000, while several
Victoria, buffer the north of the state from Victoria has a decent share of the national there is a walking track somewhere here Outdoor Leisure Map sheets (also Vicmap)
rain and cold southerly winds, producing wildlife, with pretty much all of the pin-up that beckons at any time of year. In summer focus on popular areas (at various scales)
drier and warmer conditions and places creatures found here. Koalas are common the Victorian Alps are at their best, yet it such as the Grampians, Wilsons Promon-
such as Big Desert and Little Desert. in some of the heavily wooded areas of is almost too hot in the states other great tory, Cathedral Range and the Great Ocean
Sixteen landform and vegetation regions the south, while platypuses and wombats range, the Grampians. In winter the rugged Road. These usually contain some natural
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
are recognised in Victoria, ranging from the are widespread throughout the state. Grey coast is at its most powerfully impressive, history and walking information.
semiarid mallee in the northwest, to grassy kangaroos are common in cleared lands ad- with storms in Bass Strait lashing the coast. For details of maps covering individual
woodlands on the western plains, to tall, wet jacent to bushland, and especially around You might get wet, and it might be windy, walks, see the Planning section in the in-
forests with pockets of temperate rainforest the Grampians, though red kangaroos are but it will be a scene worth witnessing. troduction to each walk.

Victoria 0
0
100 km
60 miles
Books
Lonely Planets Victoria will be a handy

Wentworth Victoria Maps guide as you skip between walks. Victorias
To Adelaide Mur 39
ray 1 Werribee Gorge p131
(230km) Mildura
2 Bushranger Bay p134
National Parks, published by See Australia
Renmark
A20
Hay
3 Cathedral Range p137 Guides, makes for good planning material,
4 Surf Coast Walk pp1423
A79
with sections on each national and state
Riv

Robinvale Balranald 5 Great Ocean Walk Highlight pp1467

er

B400
20 Narrandera 6 Mt Stapylton p152 park in Victoria.
MurraySunset Hattah 7 Mt Difficult p154
National Park HattahKulkyne 8 Prom Southern Circuit p178
State walking guides include Take a Walk
National Park Wagga
Wagga 9 Croajingolong Coast Walk pp1845 in Victorias National Parks by John and Lyn
Mu

Ouyen 75
Daly, which contains more than 200 walks
rra

NEW SOUTH 39 WALES

y

Lake To Sydney
B12
Tyrrell Swan Hill (360km) in 35 national parks; Tyrone Thomas 120
Wyperfeld Ri Deniliquin 31
Walks in Victoria; Weekend Walks Around
ve
Big National r Finley Melbourne and Day Walks Around Mel-
AUSTRALIA

Desert Park AUSTRALIAN

Hopetoun A79
bourne by Glenn Tempest; and Day Walks
SOUTH

Wilderness Lake Kerang Cohuna Tocumwal 58 See Victorian Alps

Map (p156) CAPITAL
Park Albacutya Cobram
River

Rainbow B400
Moama Numurkah
Murr
ay River
TERRITORY Victoria and Day Walks Melbourne by John
To Sydney
Lake
Lake Wycheproof Echuca
Gou
l
Albury
Yarrawonga Rutherglen Corryong 23 (430km) and Monica Chapman and John Siseman.
Hindmarsh Khancoban
Loddon

Wodonga
bu

Warracknabeal Buloke Charlton B400

rn

B75 Wangaratta Beechworth Mt Kosciuszko Cooma

To
Bordertown
A8
Nhill
Wedderburn Inglewood Elmore Waranga
Shepparton Glenrowan O
ven
(2228m) Information Sources
Jindabyne
Adelaide
(220km) Little Desert
Dimboola Basin Benalla sR
v Dartmouth Thredbo 1 For general information on Victoria, its
St Arnaud Murchison Myrtleford Reservoir
National Park A79 Bendigo Bright 18 parks and its walks, the following will be of

River
Mt Bogong
Mt Arapiles Horsham Nagambie Mt Buffalo Mt Feathertop Alpine Sn Bega
(369m)
6 Maldon
Euroa National Park National
ow
y some assistance:
Falls Creek Park
Naracoorte
Mt Difficult A8
Stawell
Maryborough
Heathcote
Castlemaine
Seymour Mansfield
Mt Buller Mt
Delegate Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs (%9455
River Omeo Snowy
Edenhope
Halls Gap
7 Avoca
Mt Macedon Kyneton M31
Lake Hotham River Errinundra
Eden 1876; http://home.vicnet.net.au/~vicwalk) Peak body for
Yea Eildon Mt Howitt National National Coopracambra
Grampians
National
Mt Ararat Daylesford Wallan 3 Eildon Park Park National Park more than 70 walking clubs in Victoria.
William Kinglake Cathedral Range Alpine
Park Lerderderg National Park State Park Buchan Parks Victoria (%13 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au)
Gl

To Adelaide
(1167m) M8 National Dargo Genoa
State Park Werribee Gorge
en

Ballarat Park Cann River

(400km) Mt Abrupt Marysville Manages Victorias parks; the website has details of all parks
elg

State Park Licola A1

Lake Bolac 1 Orbost Mallacoota
Mt
1 Mt
Gambier Hamilton Dunkeld Lake Brisbane Ranges Bacchus
MELBOURNE Baw Baw
Baw Baw
National
Bairnsdale Lakes
Entrance
9 in the state, with links to printable park notes. Phone queries
River

National Park Marsh Point

Bolac
You Yangs M1
Dandenong Ranges Park
National Park Maffra
Marlo Cape
Conran Hicks Croajingolong about any park in the state should be directed here first.
A1 Heyfield
La

Regional Park Port

M1 h National Park Tourism Victoria (%13 28 42; www.tourism.vic.gov.au)
tro

Lower Glenelg Mortlake Lake Geelong Phillip be River Sale ac

National Park Be
Nelson
Port A1
Corangamite Warragul Moe Traralgon Information on general travel around the state.
ile

Dromana
Fairy Morwell
Victorian National Parks Association (%9347 5188;
M

Torquay
Portland Colac
Anglesea 2 Korumburra I T
A
4

Bass
y

Warrnambool Port
www.vnpa.org.au) A leading conservation organisation with
et

Cape Aireys Inlet Meeniyan R

in

Lorne Phillip T
Campbell
N
Spirit

Bridgewater
(To D

Peterborough Yarram S
Lavers Hill
Island Inverloch
Foster a very active walks program.
Port Campbell Apollo Bay
Mornington S
ev on
of T rt)

National Park 5 Peninsula S

Great Otway National Park
Park Fees & Regulations
A

Cape National Park Wilsons

asm
po

Promontory
B

SOUTHERN OCEAN Otway 8

ani

National Entry fees apply only to three national parks

a

Park
featured in this chapter Mornington
 128 V I C T O R I A M e l b o u r n e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A M e l b o u r n e 129

Peninsula, Wilsons Promontory and Mt about the city and has a Greeter Service, matching visitors Victoria Hotel (%9653 0441; www.victoriahotel Jetstar interstate flights also arriving at
Buffalo which makes the National Park to volunteer guides for a half-day walking tour of the city. .com.au; 215 Little Collins St; s $50-95, d $70-120; ai) Avalon airport (% 5227 9100; www.avalonairport
Pass ($67.60) useful only if you are plan- There is also an information booth (Bourke St Mall) in the is a Melbourne institution and remark- .com.au), about 55km from Melbourne. Qantas
ning to visit these particular parks a few city centre. ably good value for the location, just off (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au), Virgin Blue (%13
times. Annual passes are also available for Swanston St. Rooms have shared or private 67 89; www.virginblue.com.au) and Jetstar (%13 15
each of these three parks. SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT bathroom. 38; www.jetstar.com.au) operate flights between
See the Planning sections of individual Most of Melbournes outdoor equipment Hotel Y (%8327 2777; www.hotely.com.au; 489 Eliza- Melbourne and cities across the country.
walks for details of fire restrictions; for in- stores are clustered on Little Bourke St, beth St; d from $119; ai) could redefine your Skybus (%9335 2811; www.skybus.com.au) oper-
formation of Total Fire Bans, see the boxed between Elizabeth and Queen Sts, where image of the YWCA. Newly renovated, each ates a 24-hour shuttle service between the
text p24. boots briefly replace briefcases. In this small floor has a different (very bright) colour. It city and Melbourne airport ($15, 20 min-
stretch you will find Paddy Pallin (%9670 is comfortable and chic and one of the best utes). Sunbus (%9689 6888; www.sunbusaustralia
Guided Walks 4845), Mountain Designs (%9670 3354), Snowgum midrange options in the city. Guests get free .com.au) runs between the city and Avalon
Anaconda Adventures (%03-8720 4013; www (%9600 0099), Bogong Equipment (%9600 0599), use of the gym and pool at the Melbourne airport ($16, one hour).
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
.anacondaadventures.com.au) Walks at Wilsons Promon- Platypus Outdoors (%9602 3933) and Pinnacle City Baths.
tory, the Victorian Alps and the Great Ocean Walk. Outdoors (%9642 2955). Kathmandu (%9642 Atlantis Hotel (%9600 2900; www.atlantishotel Bus
Auswalk (%03-5356 4971; www.auswalk.com.au) A 1942; cnr Bourke & Elizabeth St) is nearby. If you .com.au; 300 Spencer St; d from $140; a) has smart Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99; www.greyhound
selection of walks along the Great Ocean Road, Grampians, are in a thrifty mood there are clearance rooms on the west side of the city. There is .com.au) buses leave from the Melbourne Transit
Mornington Peninsula, Croajingolong and the Victorian Alps. stores for Kathmandu (421A Smith St) and Moun- a coffee bar at reception, and deluxe rooms Centre (58 Franklin St) for Adelaide ($55, nine
Bothfeet (%1300 767 416; www.bothfeet.com.au) tain Designs (412 Smith St) in the inner suburb ($160) have great views over Docklands. hours), Sydney ($70, 12 hours) and Bris-
Walking tours along the Great Ocean Walk and around of Collingwood. Mountain Designs also has Melbournes ethnic diversity is reflected bane ($180, 22 hours). Firefly Express (%1300
Daylesford. a clearance centre upstairs from its Little in the exhaustive variety of its cuisines. 730 740; www.fireflyexpress.com.au; 261 Spencer St)
Epicurious (%0407 261 510; www.epicurioustravel.com Bourke St store. Food is a local obsession and there are buses depart from its offices and travel to/
.au) Sections of the Great Ocean Walk and Great South Coles (Melbourne Central, 203-245 La Trobe St) and people who believe that Melbourne is one from Sydney ($65, 12 hours) and Adelaide
West Walk. Safeway (cnr Lonsdale & Swanston Sts) supermarkets of worlds great eating cities. Because Mel- ($55, 10 hours). Buses leave from the Fire-
Parktrek (%03-9486 7070; www.parktrek.com) Walks are both central, while it is almost com- bourne revolves around its CBD less than fly Express office. V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline
in Croajingolong, Wilsons Promontory, the Victorian Alps, pulsory to rummage through the produce most other cities, some of the best options .com.au) is the main operator for destinations
Great Ocean Road and Grampians. section at the Queen Victoria Market (513 Eliza- are away from the centre, but there are also within Victoria. V/line buses depart from
Walk 91 (%03-5237 1189; [email protected]) beth St; h6am-2pm Tue & Thu, to 6pm Fri, to 3pm Sat, some excellent choices inside the city. Southern Cross Station (Spencer St).
Two-and three-day guided and self-guided walks on the 9am-4pm Sun). Hardware Lane, near the outdoor stores,
Great Ocean Walk. is full of good little eateries: Invita (32 Hardware Car
SLEEPING & EATING Lane; mains $9-12) specialises in organic vegetar- Airport Rent-A-Car (%1800 331 033; www.airportrent
GATEWAY Ashley Gardens Big 4 Holiday Village (%1800 ian, and is the spot for nibbling on brown acar.com.au) is based at Melbourne airport.
Melbourne 061 444; www.big4ashleygardens.com.au; 129 Ashley St, rice balls and vegetarian lasagne; while aloi The following companies, except Apex
%03 / pop 3.6 million Braybrook; camp site $31-37, cabins $70-146; s) has a na! (59 Hardware Lane; mains $10-21; hlunch Mon- and Rent-a-Bomb, also have offices at the
Australias second-largest city prides itself, spacious area 9km northwest of the city. It Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) ostensibly serves rich Thai airport.
among other things, as being the nations is reached by bus No 220 from Queen St in food but dabbles in other Asian favourites Apex (%1800 777 779; www.apexrentacar.com.au; 11
sporting capital, which usually means sit- the city; get off at stop 33. such as tandoori and nasi goreng. Mareno Rd, Tullamarine) Five kilometres from the airport.
ting and watching somebody else compete. Friendly Backpacker (%9670 1111; www.friendly To sample Melbournes Middle East you Avis (%9663 6366; www.avis.com.au; 2/8 Franklin St)
It helps keep the numbers down on walk- group.com.au; 197 King St; dm $28, d & tw $78; i) is should conversely head west, to the new Budget (%9203 4844; www.budget.com.au; 398
ing tracks, at least. Food is the citys other large but far from institutional, and is a good Docklands precinct and mecca bah (55a New- Elizabeth St)
passion, making it an oasis if you have been place for a hungry walker there is free quay Promenade; mains $16-20; hlunch & dinner) for Europcar (%8633 0000; www.deltaeuropcar.com.au;
out on the track eating dried stodge for a breakfast, free pancakes on Sunday morning warming tagines and the house speciality 89 Franklin St)
few days. and free dinner on Tuesday night. Each bed of Turkish pizzas. If you want to glam up Hertz (%9663 6244; www.hertz.com.au; 97 Franklin St)
has a locker and individual reading light. a little, head for the sister restaurant mecca Rent-a-Bomb (%9335 6777; www.rentabomb.com.au;
INFORMATION Greenhouse Backpacker (% 9639 6400; www (% 9682 2999; mid-level, Southgate; mains $28-40; cnr Mickleham & Freight Rd, Tullamarine) Near the airport.
Information Victoria (%1300 366 356; 356 Collins .friendlygroup.com.au; 228 Flinders Lane; dm/s/d $29/65/78; hlunch & dinner). Thrifty (%8661 6000; www.thrifty.com.au; 390
St) State government bookshop with a good section of i) is nearer to the city centre with simi- Chocolate Buddha (Federation Sq; mains $15-20; Elizabeth St)
bushwalking titles and topographic maps of Victoria and lar offerings. It has a large, open rooftop hlunch & dinner) specialises in noodles not
Australia (with laminator). Upstairs, there is a computer for area; there are no views but there are sun chocolate (alas) and appeals for its com- Train
printing out park notes on national parks around the state. lounges. munal Japanese-style dining room. Long-distance trains operate out of Southern
Map Land (%9670 4383; www.mapland.com.au; 372 If you want something without any frills Cross Station (Spencer St). Great Southern Railway
Little Bourke St) Set among the outdoor stores, with maps or pretensions (and prices to match), try GETTING THERE & AWAY (%13 21 47; www.gsr.com.au) runs the Overland
of all Victorian walking areas. Kingsgate Hotel (%9629 4171; www.kingsgatehotel Air to/from Adelaide (seat/sleeper $65/149, 10
Melbourne Visitor Centre (%9658 9658; www.visit .com.au; 131 King St; economy/standard d $99/129). Youll Melbourne airport (%9297 1600; www.melair.com.au) hours) three times a week. CountryLink (%13
melbourne.com; Federation Sq) Good source of information find discounted rates on the website. is 22km northwest of the city, with some 22 32; www.countrylink.info) connects Melbourne
 130 M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N W e r r i b e e G o r g e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N W e r r i b e e G o r g e 131

to Sydney (economy/first class $75/105, 11 ENVIRONMENT THE WALK left, continuing above the Werribee River for
hours, two daily). Victorias rail network is The oldest rocks exposed in the gorge are Begin north (past the toilet) from the in- about 10 minutes before descending to its
operated by V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au). sediments deposited in a sea bed about 450 formation shelter, climbing through an old bank (one hour from the start). High on the
Services are of limited use to walkers, but million years ago. These were folded and quarry to a disused vehicle track. Turn right right you will see the Falcons Lookout cliffs,
they can get you near some walks. bent by upheavals in the earths crust, evident here and walk up to the car park at the a popular climbing wall.
in the anticlines (arch-shaped fold in rock park entrance. Follow the bank, first through rock fall
in which rock layers are upwardly convex) Go along the sealed road for about 25m and then along narrow rock ledges, to the
MELBOURNE REGION and synclines (basin-shaped fold in rock in
which rock layers are downwardly convex)
and then turn left through a small gate.
Follow the clearly defined track through
second river bend. Rounding this, you come
to sandy Needles Beach, the best swimming
The High Country, Grampians and Wilsons you will see along the route. About three to open woodland, climbing onto a ridge and hole along the river. At the next bend there
Promontory may be Victorias walking dia- four million years ago, lava from nearby vol- passing the turn-off to the Short Circuit is a low bluff to negotiate before the river
monds, but you dont need to go far from canoes spread across the surrounding lands, walk. About 100m on, there is a turning meanders past Lions Head Beach, where there
Melbourne to find a few fantastic walking creating basalt plains. Unrest along a fault to the right to Eastern Viewpoint. This look- is the prospect of another swim if the one
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
options. Within 100km of the city you will in the earths crust opened the way for the out gives expansive views across the brown 15 minutes ago hasnt satisfied you.
find a beach that can only be accessed by Werribee River to slice through. hills to the north, and east towards distant Past the beach you come to a trickier
walkers, a deep, rugged gorge and a knife- Stringybarks and box gums are the domi- Melbourne. Back on the main track, con- scramble around a bluff, though a hand
point range more akin to something in the nant trees of the 250 native species found tinue through open forest before swinging cable has eliminated much of its challenge.
Victorian Alps. Public transport links to in the park. Along the river you will find left into ridge-top grassland (the You Yangs After this it is a stroll beside (and in) a water
walking destinations around the city are manna gums, with smooth grey-white bark are visible to the east). From here the ridge channel that was built in 192629 to sup-
not great so you had best plan on driving. look out for koalas. The cliffs provide ideal begins to fall away to the west; follow it ply water to Bacchus Marsh. After about 15
nesting sites for wedge-tailed eagles and down to the turn-off to Western Viewpoint for minutes, pass the Short Circuit walk turn-
peregrine falcons, most likely to be seen a peep into the gorge entrance. off to the left and bear right down some
WERRIBEE GORGE during the August to November breeding Return to the main track and turn right, steps to Meikles Point picnic area (45 minutes
Duration 23 hours season. Platypuses also inhabit quiet pools descending along a narrow spur. Veer left from Needles Beach). Go through to the far
Distance 8km in the river. around a rocky point and continue descend- end of the picnic ground, then left up some
Difficulty easymoderate ing. Nearing the river, the track U-turns steps, walking to the right of the toilets to
Start/Finish Quarry car park PLANNING
Nearest Town Melbourne (p128) When to Walk Werribee Gorge 1 : 30,000 0
50m Contour Interval 0
1 km
0.5 miles

Transport private The spring display of wildflowers, especially ek 300

300
g Cre
wattles, makes this the best season for this

on
Summary Dip into one of the most rugged 250

ni

Pen
park. Throughout summer, the pools in the W er

Myr
bits of country near to Melbourne, following a ribee

tlan
River
dry ridge down to swimming holes and some gorge are just right for refreshing swims.

dH
We
Camping is not allowed within the park. Rd

ills
st
300
easy scrambling along the river. rs

ern
ye

Rd
350 M

Fre
Maps & Books

ew
Werribee

ay
Blackwood Gorge
Western
If you are driving west from Melbourne Meridian Productions 1:35,000 topographic Pool
Viewpoint State Park
towards the Grampians, you will notice a map Lerderderg & Werribee Gorges also has Eastern
Viewpoint
gash of rock to the left of the highway just a selection of background information. To Melbourne
beyond Bacchus Marsh. Hidden beneath (50km)

is Werribee Gorge, which is up to 200m NEAREST TOWN 30

0
START/
deep and is one of the most dramatic land See Melbourne (p128). rge Needles FINISH
Ironbark Go
features near to the city. The major walk Beach 300

in 575-hectare Werribee Gorge State Park GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK Lions

250
Head
Beach
crosses a dry ridge to then meander back Werribee Gorge is around 60km west of Short
Circuit
through the gorge. The route through the Melbourne. Leave the Western Fwy at the W
250

gorge involves some rock hopping and ru- Pentland Hills Rd exit, 5km west of Bacchus er
ri

We
dimentary scrambling, though a recently in- Marsh, andS turn right at a T-junction along b

rri
ee Aq
ue 200

be
du
stalled hand cable has made it a more simple the Pentland Hills Rd, which goes under the Ri

e
ver ct
Iro

0
passage. The name Werribee is believed to freeway. Turn left immediately beyond the 15
nb

300
ark

0
be derived from an Aboriginal word mean- overpass. Follow this road for about 2km to

25
Rd

G
0

o
35

rg
ing swimming place and it is a fitting title, another underpass (Werribee Gorge is vis- e Meikles Point
with a number of swimming holes to be ible to your left), turning left along sealed Picnic Area

found along the walks river stretch. You Myers Rd and continuing steeply downhill
will find it welcome in a place where the past the park entrance to the Quarry car
heat can seem greatly magnified. park (6km from the freeway).
 132 M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N M e l b o u r n e M e a n d e r s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N B u s h r a n g e r s B a y 133

join a marked track that angles steeply up a Maps

MELBOURNE MEANDERS spur. Bear left on the crest, then left again to Vicmaps 1:25,000 topographic map, Cape
Melbourne is blessed with good walking almost all the way along its edges. Werribee Gorge, Bush- cross a gully and continue on to a sharp road Schanck, covers the area of the walk and
rangers Bay and the Cathedral Range are the pick of the walks, but they are in no way the only bend. Follow the road for 100m into Quarry shows most walking tracks. The Melway
options. If you wish to do a bit more walking near to the city, consider the following areas. car park (30 minutes from the river). street directory also shows most of the
route, barring the final wander into Cape
Dandenong Ranges Schanck, and is sufficient for such a well-
Only 35km from the city, the Dandenong Ranges are one of Melbournes most popular escapes, BUSHRANGERS BAY marked track.
cherished for their magnificent forests of towering eucalypts and luxuriant fern gullies. Five areas Duration 34 hours
make up the 3215-hectare Dandenong Ranges National Park Sherbrooke Forest, on the southern Distance 13.7km Permits & Regulations
slopes, is the best of them, with its mountain ash forest, fern gullies and plenty of lyrebirds; it Difficulty easy Though there is a $4.10 vehicle entry fee
can be accessed on foot from Belgrave train station, on the suburban train network. Start Baldry Crossing to Mornington Peninsula National Park it
is not payable if you park at Baldry Cross-
VIC TORIA

Finish Cape Schanck (right)

VIC TORIA
Macedon Ranges Nearest Town Melbourne (p128) ing or Boneo Rd. If you leave a vehicle at
Block-like Mt Macedon is one of the more striking mountain vistas from Melbourne, and also a Transport private Cape Schanck you will need to pay the fee
good walking drawcard. For one of the longest day outings near the city you can stride out on Summary Combines much that is great about (disguised as a parking fee).
the Macedon Ranges Walking Trail, which begins in the town of Macedon and makes a 30km Mornington Peninsula: a secluded beach, Cape
loop over Mt Macedon, the Camels Hump and Mt Towrong, easing off in the middle to make a Schanck lighthouse and remnants of native NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
gentle loop around Sanatorium Lake. Macedon can be reached from Melbourne by train. bush. See Melbourne (p128).

Woodlands Historic Park Cape Schanck

Plane spotters and bushwalkers unite in this area of eponymous woodland and grassland at The Mornington Peninsula National Park For some moody pre- or post-walk accom-
Melbourne airports edge. Walks here can take in Woodlands Homestead, city views from Gel- covers a narrow strip of coast between modation you can stay in former lighthouse-
librand Hill and mobs of grazing eastern grey kangaroos. A full circuit of the main features will Point Nepean and the town of Flinders. keeper cottages at Cape Schanck lighthouse
take about half a day, and you will need your own transport. Along Main Creek it also arrows inland to (%03-5988 6251; www.austpacinns.com.au; d/cottage
incorporate Greens Bush, one of the few $120/165), with the lighthouse as your bed
Brisbane Ranges remaining sections of native vegetation lamp and Bass Strait as your backyard pond.
One of the few opportunities close to the city to set out for a few days of walking, the Burchell
on the peninsula. The walk described here The motel-style Inspectors Room is the
Walk extends for 39km through the dry bushland of the Brisbane Ranges. The walk begins in the
combines these two features of the park most modern option, while the oldest cot-
former gold-rush township of Steiglitz and meanders north for three days to Boar Gully. Koalas
bush and beach into a great day trip. tage, built in 1859, has an open fireplace.
are prolific in the ranges. A shorter option is to walk into Anakie Gorge on the ranges eastern
For most of the walks length you follow To reach Cape Schanck, turn left at the
side. There is no public transport to the ranges. Fires in February 2006 burned 7000ha around
the Two Bays Walking Track. This coast-to- end of the Mornington Peninsula Fwy and
the national park. Youll see much evidence of this as you walk.
coast route stretches 26km from Dromana follow Boneo Rd for 12km to Cape Schanck
to Cape Schanck, crossing Arthurs Seat en Rd. The car park is 4km along this road.
route. Its best section is described here.
You Yangs If you cant organise a vehicle shuttle at GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
An iconic landmark on the citys western horizon, the granite humps of the You Yangs top out at
each end of the track, an alternative to the The most direct approach from Melbourne
Flinders Peak (348m). The best walk circuits this peak, starting at Turntable car park and swinging
route described here is to begin at Boneo to Baldry Crossing is along Mornington Pe-
around a saddle before looping back. Conclude your walk by taking the track up to the summit of
Rd and walk into, and back out from, Cape ninsula Fwy. Near its end, take the Jetty Rd
Flinders Peak. The circuit route is 4.5km in length, with the summit climb adding another 3km.
Schanck. Compensation for the out-and- exit and continue south to Browns Rd, then
back nature of this walk is that you get to see Baldrys Rd. Baldry Crossing is about 2km
Cape Woolamai its best feature Bushrangers Bay twice. along Baldry Rd, 9km from the freeway.
At the southeastern tip of Phillip Island, Cape Woolamai is noteworthy for two things: the pink Dieback (see p47) is a problem in Greens If driving from Cape Schanck to Baldry
granite that forms the rugged point, and the migratory mutton birds (short-tailed shearwaters) Bush, so keep to the defined walking tracks. Crossing, turn right at Boneo Rd, then left
that arrive here in September each year. To see the best of the cape you can walk a 10km circuit, onto Meakins Rd shortly after passing the
beginning on Woolamai Surf Beach, and passing the Pinnacles sea cliffs to the cape. The return route PLANNING car park for the walk into Bushrangers Bay.
crosses inland through the mutton-bird rookeries to Safety Beach. Allow three or four hours. When to Walk Turn left at the roads end, then quickly left
Just about any time of the year is suitable again into Baldrys Rd. The car park is about
Coastal Art Trail for this walk; if you strike a hot summer 2km ahead.
The walk you can have without leaving Melbourne, following the shore of the citys exclusive bayside day you can always cool your feet at Bush-
suburbs. The Coastal Art Trail extends for 17km between Brighton and Beaumaris, and is showcased rangers Bay (while heeding the swimming THE WALK
by signboards highlighting the coasts influence on Heidelberg School painters such as Arthur Stree- warnings). Camping is not permitted in the Cross Baldrys Rd from the car park and
ton, Tom Roberts and Frederick McCubbin. The trail can be reached on the suburban train network; national park. There are no reliable sources follow the walking track into the open euca-
stations near the trail are Middle Brighton, Brighton Beach, Hampton and Sandringham. of fresh water along the walk, so carry all lyptus bushland of Greens Bush. Walk beside
you will need for the day. Main Creek for five minutes, then begin
 134 M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N B u s h r a n g e r s B a y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N C a t h e d r a l R a n g e 135

Bushrangers Bay 1 : 70,000 0

50m Contour Interval 0 1 miles
2 km
with the track crisscrossed by kangaroo Melbourne, although it doesnt come with-
superhighways, you emerge onto an open, out some effort. To walk the circuit that
grassed ridge. You will almost certainly see is described here, you must be confident

0
183m

15
To Dromana
(5km) 150 kangaroos. Boneo Rd is 800m ahead. about scrambling on rock while carrying
Cross Boneo Rd and continue south on a a backpack. If you are in any doubt about
START
Baldry wide, sandy track, passing through banksia your ability, consider abbreviating the walk
Crossing
thickets and clumps of wattle. After 1km to a circuit of the ranges northern end,

Rogers Rd
Greens
Bush 15
0
there are glimpses along Main Creek to following the Jawbone Creek Track west
Mornington the ocean; another 1km and you are star- from Cooks Mill to the Farmyard, and then

ck
Tra
Peninsula
National Park ing down onto Bushrangers Bay, which is following the Day 2 description here. Jaw-

ing
Baldrys R
d

alk
dominated by Elephant Rock. Thirty to bone Creek Track is steep but its in no

sW
45 minutes from Boneo Rd you come to a way technical.

y
o Ba
track junction. Turn left and descend to the The walk described here can be tackled in

Tw
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
beach at Bushrangers Bay. Although the surf either direction, though walking clockwise

Creek
may look inviting, bear in mind that cross is recommended since the descent from
rips (undertows or currents) can make Sugarloaf Peak is more problematic than

Main

0
15
50
swimming hazardous. To see the best of the ascent.
the bay, cross Main Creek and head to the

10
Lig
PLANNING

0
htwo beachs eastern end, where you can poke
about beneath Elephant Rock. From here When to Walk
150

od
Cr
ee k
there are also views across the bay to the Avoid midsummer as you will be in the full
Lon
gP Cape Schanck lighthouse. glare of sun all the way across the ridge.
100

oi n
tC
Rd ircu
it W
Back on the main track, cross Burrabong Because of this, you will invariably need
int alk
ng
Po
Kad
Creek and climb beneath a canopy of tea- to drink more water than you expect, and
Lo well
National
Gull
y
tree to the top of the 80m-high cliffs. Set there may be no resupply at Jawbone Creek,
150

Golf
Club
Bo
ne back from the cliffs, the track follows so ensure you have adequate supplies.
o
Rd their general line towards Cape Schanck. Spring and autumn are both excellent times
s Rd

Nearing the lighthouse there are a cou- to walk, while the Cathedrals can also be a
kin

ple of good viewpoints onto the tip of Cape good place on which to break the chill of
Mea

Schanck and back to Bushrangers Bay. The winter avoid the ridge, however, if there
Cape Schanck Rd

10
Mornington
Peninsula
0
track emerges at a car park; to the left is a is the likelihood of rain or mist.
National Park lookout platform with clearer views of the
Gunnamatta To Flinders
previous vantage points. Follow the road Maps & Books
Beach (10km) down to the main car park (45 minutes Vicmaps 1:25,000 topographic map Ca-
100

50 Boneo Rd
from Bushrangers Bay), where there is a thedral Range contains some basic walk
ek
Cre

50 Mornington 50 basic kiosk. Tours of Cape Schanck Lighthouse notes and is a good resource, though the
ong

Peninsula
National Park (adult/child $12/10), which has been operating trail from Cooks Mill to Jawbones car
rab

100
since 1859, leave on the half-hour. park is incorrectly marked. Pick up also
Bur

(95m)
FINISH Cape Schanck
the park notes from the Marysville visitor
50

Lighthouse information centre (p136); these show the

CATHEDRAL RANGE
50

Bushrangers
Bay 50 50
new trail.
Elephant Federation Day Walks, produced by Ma-
Rock Duration 2 days
roondah Bushwalking Club, may be dif-
Distance 18.6km
ficult to find but it contains more than 20
Difficulty demanding
Cape Schanck BASS STRAIT walks in the area, including a couple in the
Start/Finish Cooks Mill camp site (p136)
Cathedrals.
Nearest Town Marysville (p136)
Transport private
climbing above it. Pass a track junction to down to ferny Lightwood Creek (one hour Permits & Regulations
Summary Discover an isolated walking won-
the right, cross a bracken-filled side creek on from the start). Pass a track junction (out to Access to the ridge is not allowed on days of
der as you pick along the narrow and rocky
a boardwalk and continue the climb away Rogers Rd) on the right, then round a gully Total Fire Ban. Fires are not permitted at the
ridge of the Cathedral Range, where there is
from Main Creek. Nearing the ridge top, and amble above Lightwood Creek and the Farmyard (or anywhere along the range), so
always a view and a few superb lyrebirds.
turn left onto Two Bays Walking Track. deeper Main Creek valley once again. Cross carry a fuel stove. If you are camping at
Beyond a ridge-top swathe of bracken the the two ends of the Long Point Circuit Walk either Cooks Mill or Neds Gully, firewood
track heads back into woodland and some and pass through a stand of banksias to The Cathedral Range State Park offers the collection is banned, so bring any firewood
dense clusters of grass trees. Follow the ridge Kadwell Gully. About 1km beyond the gully, most rugged and rewarding walking near with you.
 136 M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N C a t h e d r a l R a n g e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N C a t h e d r a l R a n g e 137

400
NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES room or at the outside tables (where you 450
30
1 : 50,000 0 1 km

35
Cathedral Range 0

0
50m Contour Interval 0 0.5 miles
Buxton and Taggerty are marginally nearer probably will be among the parrots). Little
Cathedral To Taggerty
the trailhead, but Marysville offers a far bet- Crossways Country Inn (4 Woods Point Rd; mains (700m) Neds
Gully
(7km)
60
0

300
35
ter range of services. $18-25; h lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Fri-Sun) picks

350
0
45

55
up the yesteryear slack with fine-china Track 0

0
Marysville displays, framed Hollywood starlets and Gu
ll y Neds Gully
Cathedral ds
%03 / pop 625 candle lighting; a chintzy way to enjoy a North
(814m)
Ne
If you have been to the Cathedrals isnt chicken parma or roast-of-the-day. Blackwood

65
Lit

60
Flat

0
0
the obvious next stop Victorias one-time

tle River
500

750

L it tl e R
Blackwood
honeymoon capital? Marysville is still very GETTING THERE & AWAY Little Cathedral
Track
Flat

much a place people come to swing hands Marysville is 95km from Melbourne along

i v er
with a loved one. If not that, then for the the Maroondah Hwy (across the magnifi-

Rd
800
Cathedral
Peak
abundance of king parrots. cent Black Spur). McKenzies Tourist Services (840m)
Neds
VIC TORIA

550

VIC TORIA
Peak
The visitor information centre (%5963 4567; (%9853 6264; www.mckenzies.com.au) has a daily Neds

600
450
Saddle
www.marysvilletourism.com; Murchison St) can supply bus to/from Melbournes Southern Cross 600

you with maps and park notes. You will station ($14, 2 hours). The

Litt
Gorge
find basic camping supplies at Marysville

le
Ri

Cath
ver

400
Hardware & Auto (Murchison St). Cooks Mill Camp Site Tra
c k

edral
Set among manna gums (keep an eye out

P
Lowers

eak T
START/
SLEEPING & EATING for koalas) on the banks of Little River, FINISH
on Trac
k
Track

rack
Marysville Caravan & Holiday Park (%5963 3443; Cooks Mill camp site (per vehicle $11.50) is a large, rnards

C
Finger St B e

a
Buttress
1130 Buxton Rd; unpowered sites for 2 $27-31, powered well-spaced area central to everything in Cooks

the
Mill
ne
sites for 2 $29-33, cabins $60-105) is in the centre of the park. There are two approaches the bo rack

Li
North Jawek T

dra

ttle
40
0
town, with the Steavenson River running shortest is to take Buxton Rd 8km from Jawbone Cre

350

Ri
Mac
Peak(795m)

ve
k
Cree

l
right through it. Marysville (or 3km from Buxton), turning

r
one

Lenn
awb Cathedral
Blackwood Cottages (%5963 3333; www.black right into Mt Margaret Rd, then forking left J
Range

ans
Side Trip State Park
woodcottages.com.au; 38 Falls Rd; cottages $125-145, spa onto Cerberus Rd (Cooks Mill is 10km on). DAY 2

Gull
The Farmyard
cottages $160-180) come complete with washing This road might not be suitable to 2WD

700
Jawbone South Jawbone

y
Saddle Peak(798m)
machine, dishwasher and park notes on all at all times. Otherwise, head north from

450
50
650
the walking options around the area. Ask Buxton on Maroondah Hwy, turning right

Ra

Twe
Raz
the helpful and knowledgeable owners for into Cathedral Lane. Turn right again after

orb

e
ly

ng
Lightwood Gul

d S
a look at the house copy of Federation Day 3km into Little River Rd and follow this

ck Ri a
The

pu
e
Walks. There are tennis courts also, if you south to Cooks Mill.

rR
dge Tr
But

d
still have some puff left.

Ce
300

rb
THE WALK

tre

ac k
Maryton Park B&B Country Cottages (%5963

eru
700

s
sse
Day 1: Cooks Mill Camp Site to Farmyard

45

Rd
Th
600
3242; [email protected]; 36 Maryton Lane; d $135)

550
0

e R
s
are 5km out of town (towards the Cathedral 34 hours, 8.3km, 520m ascent, 170m descent Elevation

az
Range) and overlook a berry garden, nut Head off from the walking track at the west-

or
The
Cathedral

ba
Razorback
grove and a lake from which you can pluck ern end of the camp site, winding up St Sugarloaf
The
North

ck
1000 Peak 0
Farmyard Neds Saddle 65
your own trout for dinner. There is compli- Bernards Track until it enters Jawbones car

Can

80
800

75
0
mentary port and home-made chocolates park (about 30 minutes from Cooks Mill).

yon
Cooks Cooks

0
Mill Mill
Wells
600 Cave Wells Cave
in each cottage. The attached Cumquat Tree

Tra 850
Turn left and begin the road slog, and a Sugarloaf
Saddle
Cathedral
Peak
Track

ck
Jawbone Sugarloaf
400
Tearooms (mains $18-30; hlunch Sat & Sun, dinner climb of 300m, towards Sugarloaf Saddle Cerberus Rd
Saddle Little Cathedral
Mt Sugarloaf
Saddle

700
Fri, Sat, Mon & Tue) draws on the best of local (45 minutes to one hour from the car park). 200

Gre
(start)

800
Neds Gully

en
Tricky Scramble
produce, including rib-eye steaks as high as 0m

Hil
To

85 ack
with Backpack

l
Marysville

0
0km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

Tr
a Cathedral Range escarpment. (12km

Foodworks (Murchison St) has sufficient sup- WARNING

plies for a night out on the track, while Mar- The spring below the camp site at the Farm- There are good views of the Jawbone peaks Cave itself becomes extremely narrow and
ysville Country Bakery Cafe (cnr Murchison St & Pack Rd; yard is unreliable, especially in late sum- early on. you wont fit through wearing a backpack.)
h7am-5.30pm) is parrot central and an insti- mer and autumn. You should carry enough At Sugarloaf Saddle turn right onto the Skirt a rock outcrop and ascend along the
tution worth walking up an appetite for. water for the full two days. If this makes walking track, forking almost immediately spur, which steepens as you climb. Scram-
Fragas caf (19 Murchison St; mains $17-25; hlunch your pack uncomfortably heavy, avoid the left onto the Canyon Track. (The right trail ble up through the next fractured line of
Thu-Tue, dinner Fri-Sun) has no parrots and no section of the walk from Sugarloaf Peak ascends through Wells Cave, a more techni- rock, then continue to the left of the main
olde-worlde gimmickry, just a modern across the Razorback to the Farmyard. cal route than the Canyon Track, making line of rock. Cut across this below the point
menu to be enjoyed in the art-filled dining the final climb along a flake of rock. Wells at which the rock becomes cliff, and funnel
 138 M E L B O U R N E R E G I O N C a t h e d r a l R a n g e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT O C E A N R OA D H i s t o r y 139

up a narrow break in the rock. This is the SIDE TRIP: SOUTH JAWBONE PEAK Sugarloaf but it still makes for an interest- walking among the waterfalls behind Lorne
most exposed section of the walk, though 20 minutes, 800m, 70m ascent ing rock hop. (see p186).
if you hold your balance it is not particu- From the centre of Farmyard a simple After crossing a run of high knolls, pass
larly difficult. Stay with the weak line in the track eases up the hill to the rocky summit by a second turning to Neds Saddle (about HISTORY
rock until it angles to the left of the main of South Jawbone Peak (798m). From here, 45 minutes from North Jawbone Peak). The idea for the Great Ocean Road was sug-
outcrop. Here, you drop down to a track all of the principal features of the ridge Climb on for five minutes to the summit gested in 1917 as a way to employ soldiers
behind the rock. Sugarloaf Peak, North Jawbone Peak and of Cathedral Peak (840m). Here, the track returning from WWI. A trust was estab-
About 100m on, an orange arrow on a Cathedral Peak look close. You can also drops away on the eastern side of the ridge, lished the following year and the first sur-
gum tree points you back up onto the rock. look down on the road you trudged up first although it continues to follow its general veys completed. Construction began near
Follow the reliable arrows as the track angles thing this morning; it looks much better line down and to the north. Just before Lorne in September 1919, though it would
up to the summit of Sugarloaf Peak. There from afar. a saddle you come to a third track junc- take 13 years to complete the road and re-
are some spectacular and airy views north tion (roughly 30 minutes from Cathedral quire the labour of around 3000 workers.
along the spiky line of the ridge what you Day 2: Farmyard to Cooks Mill Peak). Drop your pack again and make the The road was officially opened on 26 No-
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
see is what you will have to walk. Camp Site short climb onto Little Cathedral (700m), vember 1932.
Follow the ridge north its as knife- 34 hours, 10.3km, 270m ascent, 620m descent the end of the line so far as tracks go in the
sharp as the name Razorback suggests. The You can continue north along the ridge Cathedral Range. The view north along the ENVIRONMENT
route goes across the top of, and just in (follow the sign for Cathedral Peak), but ridge will confirm the knowledge that you The Great Ocean Road is a tale of two
behind, the rocky ridge top, making for the more interesting route is to begin along have been walking in rugged terrain. coasts. Along the Otway Range, at its east-
a slow, scrambly and enjoyable rock hop. Jawbone Creek Track (signposted to Jaw- Return to your pack and take the left ern end, the hillsides are blanketed in thick
Much of the way there are good views into bones car park). After about 100m turn fork, which contours across the ridge and forest and drained by waterfalls. At its
the agricultural Acheron Valley and, ahead, left, crossing the creek and heading up a into Neds Saddle. Take a hard left, onto western end, the road concludes in grassy
to the two Jawbones peaks in the middle small gully. In roughly five minutes youll the track that is signposted Neds Gully agricultural land and limestone cliffs and
of the ridge. come to a T-junction (and another small (the track to Neds Peak leads to a viewless stacks such as the Twelve Apostles. The
After about 30 minutes, as the trail camp site). Dump your pack here and take summit), and descend across the slopes difference is evidenced by rainfall figures
dips away slightly to the west, the going the right-hand track, crossing through of Neds Peak. After about five minutes Lorne receives around 200mm more rain
becomes a little easier and the rock dis- a small clearing and then climbing 50m the track begins a switchbacking descent. per year than Port Campbell. The two walks
appears from the ridge top. Dont panic; (steeply at the end) to the summit of North About one hour from Little Cathedral, the in this section are on the different sides of
it returns intermittently in about 400m, Jawbone Peak (795m), about 15 minutes track crosses Neds Gully, recrossing its the divide.
although you now walk below it through from Farmyard. Drop down to the obvi- various streams several more times until In December 2005, the former Otway
stringybark forest on the ridges western ous ledge below the summit for the best you reach a T-junction. Turn right the National Park and the Angahook-Lorne,
slopes. Soon afterwards, the track contours views you will get of South Jawbone and left turn heads a short distance into Neds Carlisle and Melba Gully State Parks, as
around South Jawbone Peak, before drop- Sugarloaf Peaks. Gully camp site (per vehicle $11.50) following well as some areas of state forest, were in-
ping into the open saddle of the Farmyard Return to your pack and continue the track along the bank of Little River. corporated into the new 103,000-hectare
(one to 1 hours from Sugarloaf), where straight ahead, climbing back to the ridge The valley will seem positively lush (except Great Otway National Park, increasing
you will find good camp sites, either shaded top, where you turn right. About 100m on, for the short section of pines) after your the national park area by around 60,000
or open. There is a spring below the camp a trail drops away to the right towards Neds hours on the ridge. Around thirty minutes hectares, and making it the largest coastal
site, at the head of Jawbone Creek, though Saddle stay on the ridge. At this end of away from the junction, you will arrive national park in the state.
it is not reliable (see p136). the range the ridge is more gentle than near back at Cooks Mill.
PLANNING
Information Sources
LIAR, LYRE Andrew Bain
The Farmyard takes its name for the resident superb lyrebirds that have taken to imitating the calls
GREAT OCEAN ROAD The Great Ocean Road visitor information centre
(%5237 6529; www.greatoceanrd.org.au; Great Ocean
of livestock from the surrounding farmlands. Around this camp site, especially beside Jawbone The aptly named Great Ocean Road, stretch- Road, Apollo Bay) is a good starting point. If
Creek and on the slopes of North and South Jawbone Peak, the lyrebirds are as visible as they ing between Torquay and Warrnambool, is you are driving along the road from Mel-
are showy. In five or six walking trips to the Cathedral Range, I have never failed to see one of the popular choice as Australias most sce- bourne to the Great Ocean Walk you will
these gregarious birds. Occasionally, such as one morning on the trail to North Jawbone Peak, nic drive. With two very different stretches pass right by it. The website has a heap
there has even been the treat of the ultimate mating display. of coast divided by the death throes of of basic, downloadable maps, including 15
This day I heard the lyrebird well before I saw it, mistaking it at first for a whipbird it was, the Otway Ranges, it attracts motorists in walking maps (the Surf Coast Walk among
after all, making the unmistakable cracking call of a whipbird. By the time I spotted it, the male herds, but there are a number of walking them).
lyrebird was mimicking a kookaburra, strutting about with its gorgeous tail up over its back and trails delightfully removed from the heavy
head like the fan of a society lady. A few metres away a seemingly uninterested female wandered tread of this holiday migration. Guided Walks
about the bush. Slowly the male employed every noise it knew cicadas, cattle, currawongs, other We have chosen the two prime coastal Each of the companies listed on p128 offers
birds. When I left it, the lyrebird had become the ultimate conservationists nightmare a bird walks in the region the Surf Coast Walk walking tours along the Great Ocean Road:
that knew the sound of a chainsaw. Hardly the thing to impress the ladies, you would think. and the Great Ocean Walk. For a taste of Auswalk on the Surf Coast Walk and all
the damp and lush hinterland theres good others on the Great Ocean Walk.
 140 G R E AT O C E A N R OA D S u r f C o a s t W a l k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT O C E A N R OA D S u r f C o a s t W a l k 141

SURF COAST WALK will find what is billed as the worlds largest of 1000 movies and 3000 books; and Aireys From the steps, an obvious trail heads
surf museum and an entire plaza filled with by the Light (%5289 6134; 2 Federal St; d $165-265; southwest along the cliff tops, climbing
Duration 2 days surf shops. Set into the Surfworld Australia a), located surprise, surprise by the slowly with the cliffs and offering views
Distance 32km Surfing Museum is the Torquay visitors centre lighthouse. All rooms have ocean view and ahead of sloping sandstone headlands. After
Difficulty easy (%5261 4219; Beach Rd). theres a central spa. 20 minutes the trail leaves Jan Juc, swinging
Start Torquay Of the three caravan parks, Torquay Public Aireys Inlet Hotel (%5289 6279; 45 Great Ocean inland through heath to meet Bells Blvd at
Finish Fairhaven Reserve (%5261 2496; Bell St; unpowered/powered Road; mains $15-22) has a beer garden and bis- a white, wave-shaped marker denoting the
Nearest Towns Torquay (below), sites for 2 $10/25, cabins $65-120) is nearest to the tro meals, while A La Grecque (%5289 6922; 17 entrance to the Bells Beach Surfing Recrea-
Aireys Inlet (right) start of the walk. Beach Rd; mains around $25; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner tion Reserve.
Transport bus Bells Beach Lodge (%5261 7070; www.bellsbeach Wed-Sun) is the creation of famed Lorne res- The path now stays beside the road
Summary Discover the cliffs, beaches and lodge.com.au; 51-53 Surfcoast Hwy; dm $20-25, d $50-65; taurateur Kosta Talihmanidis, offering fine into the car park, reached about 45 min-
lighthouse at the end of Australias most fa- i), with its faux bathing boxes, hires surf- but informal dining to celebrate the end of utes from Rocky Point. Take the first set
mous scenic drive its even better on foot. boards if you fancy strutting the waves as a fine walk. of steps to Bells Beach, which surfers know
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
well as the coast. The V/Line buses that serve Torquay (see as a nirvana, and others might know for
At the Great Ocean Roads eastern end, the Norfolk Cottage B&B (%5264 8182; 22 Island Dr; opposite) continue to Aireys Inlet ($10.40, its starring role in the movie Point Break,
Surf Coast Walk is unlike most other Aus- d $90-150; a) has stepped from the pages 1 hours from Geelong), also stopping at though for a beach with enormous raps it
tralian walks because it can be done in com- of B&B Weekly, with its English country the Fairhaven Surf Club. is surprisingly small.
parative comfort. Skipping between holiday garden, home-made biscuits and plump At low tide you can walk to the beachs
towns, it is a great chance to walk without quilts. The attic is all yours, including the THE WALK end and simply round the headland on its
the need to hump your home on your back. large spa. Day 1: Torquay to Anglesea rocky platform. Away from low tide, this
Passing over and across some of Austral- Growlers (23 The Esplanade; mains $15-26; hbreak- 45 hours, 18km route should not be attempted you could
ias most attractive cliffs and beaches, and fast, lunch & dinner) has an inventive menu and Begin by walking southwest along Torquay get more than wet, as this section of coast
taking in bushland the Great Ocean Road proximity to the beach. Near the Torquay Surf Beach, at the towns southern end. Past has a wrath that has claimed at least 19
largely ignores, there is much to recom- Surf Beach, Caf Splash (2/15 Bell St; burgers $9) the surf club, turn upstream on the true left ships. Instead, take the path (not the road)
mend the walk over the drive. does all-day breakfasts and a variety of (north) bank of Spring Creek to the foot- at the obvious gully, crossing the footbridge
The route described here varies slightly burgers, sandwiches and cakes. bridge, crossing it and following the wide and climbing back on to the cliffs.
from the Surf Coast Walk proper, but is V/Line (%13 99 36; www.vline.com.au) has five path to the tip of Rocky Point, where a set of At the Southside car park, five minutes
more scenic and more practical to public daily buses two on weekends from Gee- wooden steps leads down onto Jan Juc beach. from Bells, you will strike two paths. The
transport. Gone is the largely uninspiring longs Transport Mall to Torquay ($5.40, 40 Head west along the beach for about 15 sealed path heads down to Southside Beach.
climb from Fairhaven into Moggs Creek at minutes). Return buses run four times a day minutes, leaving it at the third set of steps, Follow instead the gravel track, which even-
its end; added as a taster of the coast to come (twice on weekends). marked 77W. (Avoid the temptation to tually meets Jarosite Rd near the crest. Walk
is the section between Torquay and Jan Juc. continue to the steps at the beachs end; on the road verge for about 200m, until just
Aireys Inlet these have been partly destroyed by land past a sign for Ironbark Basin, and turn left
PLANNING %03 / pop 1000 slips.) Despite the lack of signage, the head at the narrow path into the heath.
When to Walk Fairhaven, at walks end, is a residential ex- of these steps marks the official start of the Soon you will come to a vehicle track
This route can be walked at any time. Sum- tension of Aireys Inlet, a town as earthy at Surf Coast Walk. and a confusing web of paths. Go virtually
mer is most popular, with the mixed bless- least by Great Ocean Road standards as straight on, beside the sign for the Jarosite
ings of warm weather and cooling crowds. its unsealed roads. Pinned to the ground Track, and drop to an unexpected dam,
by the Split Point Lighthouse, it is not a TIME & TIDE its waters as brown and viscous as liquid
Maps place to come on a budget. The cheapest Given perpetual low tide it would be possi- chocolate. This is followed by another mess
Though the trail isnt marked, the 1:50,000 accommodation is at Aireys Inlet Holiday Park ble to walk almost the full length of the Surf of signs; stay with the Jarosite Track as it
Royal Australian Survey Corps topographic (% 5389 6230; www.aicp.com.au; 19-25 Great Ocean Coast Walk along the beaches. Though this heads uphill and inland.
maps titled Anglesea and Torquay cover the Road; unpowered/powered sites for 2 from $20/22, cabins isnt feasible, it is worth coordinating your Near the top of the hill, through grass
length of the walk. The free Surf Coast Of- $65-165; si). walk so that at least a part of each day cor- trees as prolific as lawn, you reach a T-
ficial Touring Map, available at the Torquay In Fairhaven itself there is quirky Ocean responds with low tide. The best places to junction. Turn left, following the Car Park
visitors centre (below), is a necessary com- Inlet at Fairhaven (%5289 7313; oceaninlet@bigpond aim for low tide are Bells Beach/Southside sign. Here, the vegetation thins, opening up
plement. It shows a basic outline of the walk .com; 34 Wybellenna Dr; d $200-250) with a gazebo- (Day 1), making it possible to walk below views across the top of the Ironbark Basin
and has inset maps of Torquay, Anglesea style bed-sit with floor-to-ceiling windows the cliffs from Bells to Point Addis; and Split to pencil-sharp Point Addis.
and Aireys Inlet. overlooking native gardens. A tiny cabin Point (Day 2), granting you close-up views Twenty minutes from the dam, and
next door contains your kitchenette and of Table Rock and its spread of rock pools. 100m before the Ironbark Basin car park,
NEAREST TOWNS bathroom. Tide times can be checked at www.bom turn left on to Ironbark Track, descending
Torquay On the walk, you will pass two B&Bs: .gov.au/oceanography/tides Anglesea back to the cliff tops through the epony-
%03 / pop 8000 Cimarron (%5289 7044; www.cimarron.com.au; 105 Gil- tides are 30 minutes earlier than at Port mous ironbarks with their furrowed bark.
The Surf Coasts major town is, shall we say, bert St; d $125-175, garden flat $150-200; ai), 1km Phillip Heads. At the cliff edge (a tiger snake breeding
a little obsessive about its surfing. Here, you east of Boundary Rd, with a free library ground) turn right, staying on Ironbark
 142 G R E AT O C E A N R OA D S u r f C o a s t W a l k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT O C E A N R OA D G re a t O c e a n W a l k H i g h l i g h t 143

100
1 : 150,000 0 2 km
Surf Coast Walk

150
50m Contour Interval 0 1 mile

d
(225m)

aR

y
Hw
(86m)

200

ese

st
50

oa
gl
An

fc
Great Otway

r
15

Su
0 National Park

An
Painkalac
Great Otway Dam

gle
National Park sea

Spri
50
Ri
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50 Open Cut r

ng
Anglesea
150

Whites Mine Rd re
ean

C
100 Power ek
Pain Track Mt Ingoldsby Station
t Oc
kal 50 (121m) mate Trac ea
a c (129m) Me
ss k Gr Torquay The Sands
Sub-station Torquay
t St Golf Torquay
Gilber (105m) Golf Course

10
50 Course Ja Golf Club

0
Harvey ro Jan Juc

Gully
Hutt
Sewage sit Caravan
Katalin Great O St Anglesea Caravan Treatment Ironbark
e
Park
Loutit Rd cean Rd Jarosite Coastal
R Park Works Track Track Reserve
Bay d Half START
Fairhaven

Rd
Boundary 50 d Moon Point Danger
Aireys
VIC TORIA

50

VIC TORIA
Coastal Blv Bay Jan Juc

di s
Rd Dam Be l l s Torquay
FINISH Inlet DAY 2 Reserve 50 Surf Beach

Point Ad
Eumeralla Beach
Soapy Track goes onto
Cairn Eagle Nest Rock Memorial Southside Bells Beach, then Rocky
Reef Scout Camp Bells off it at the gully Point
Split Point Beach Beach
Split Point
Lighthouse Point Track leaves
Ingoldsby
Table Eagle Roadknight
Reefs beach at Point
Rock Rock Bass this point Addis Bass
Strait Strait

Track and coming almost immediately to The Anglesea Motor Inn (%5263 3888; www After about 500m, the lines kink to the as the lighthouse became known, is open to
a lookout across unstable cliffs that resem- .angleseaoz.com; 109 Great Ocean Road; d $110-240; right. Take the smaller track to the left, then visitors just one day a year.
ble melted wax. as), overlooking the river, is only a few turn immediately right to join a narrow Round the lighthouse and follow the path
The track ascends behind these cliffs, metres off the trail, while you need only path contouring above Anglesea. This is signed Inlet & Beach, passing a cairn that
veering right at the Koori Cultural Walk, cross the river to find Anglesea Rivergums B&B one of the walks best stretches: ahead, you marks the graves of two settlers. Joining the
then left again after about 200m. This path (%5263 3066; [email protected]; 10 Bin- will see the road to Mt Ingoldsby your beach where it blocks Painkalac Creek, the
ends at Point Addis Rd; turn left and follow gley Pde; d $100-140; a), with river views and a guiding line and below, you might snatch final sandy stroll to the surf club at Fair-
the road to the point (45 minutes from the cloud-soft bed to prepare you for another glimpses of the golf courses kangaroos. haven takes about 15 minutes.
start of the Ironbark Track). day of walking. After 10 minutes you ascend to the Mess-
Point Addis offers views the virtual length Angahook Cafe & Stores (119 Great Ocean Road) mate Track, turning left amid less inspiring
of the walk, back to Jan Juc and west to Split is a combination restaurant/gourmet deli/ views of an open-cut coal mine. The Mess- GREAT OCEAN WALK HIGHLIGHT
Point Lighthouse. Take the track at the car grocer that will fit most catering needs. The mate Track climbs in ever-steeper steps to Duration 3 days
parks western edge, winding down to the salmon steaks at the Surfing Albatross (89 Great Mt Ingoldsby (121m), one hour from Angle- Distance 43km
beach, which is cleaved by a rocky spit. At Ocean Road; mains $16-21; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) sea, from where you will have a view of Difficulty moderate
the spit, turn up the creek to a set of steps, will make you forget you are supposed to Anglesea that is blotted by the mine and Start Johanna Beach car park
walking up and away from the coast and be doing it rough, while the menu at Rose the belching substation. Finish Glenample Homestead
into a stand of she-oaks. Follow the cliff Chinese Restaurant (65 Great Ocean Road; mains $17- Turn right at the summit onto unmarked Nearest Towns Lavers Hill (p144),
tops past the Eumeralla Scout Camp to the 25) resembles an electoral roll. Harvey St, veering left after 10 minutes Princetown (p145)
Anglesea River in Anglesea (1 hours from onto (also unmarked) Gilbert St, rejoining Transport shuttle service
Point Addis). Day 2: Anglesea to Aireys Inlet the power lines grow to like them, they Summary Sample the countrys newest long-
34 hours, 14km are with you until Aireys Inlet. distance trail, seeing some of the Great Ocean
ANGLESEA Finding the path out of Anglesea is about Gilbert St drops steeply into and out of Roads little-known beauties and ending be-
%03 / pop 2200 the Surf Coast Walks greatest difficulty. reedy Hutt Gully, then meanders towards side its showstopper, the Twelve Apostles.
The first point at which the Great Ocean Head upstream on the Anglesea Rivers true Aireys. At Boundary Rd, 1 hours from
Road actually touches the coast, Anglesea right (west) bank, crossing the Great Ocean Mt Ingoldsby, turn left, crossing the Great
stakes much of its celebrity on the kanga- Road and continuing into Coogoorah Park. Ocean Road and continuing to the car park By its very name, the Great Ocean Walk
roos that famously graze its golf course. When you draw level with the playgrounds at Boundary Rds end. makes clear its intention to become one of
The Anglesea Beachfront Family Holiday Park wrecked ship, go left up the embankment From the car park, you have a choice the most famous names among Australian
(%5263 1583; www.angleseafcp.com.au; Cameron Rd; (it wont feel right, but it is) to meet an between spectaculars. At low tide, you can walking tracks, coupling itself to the fame
sites $26-35, cabins $76-152; i) offers the most unsealed road. Take the sandy foot track descend to the beach and round Split Point of the Great Ocean Road.
practical camping it is the first thing (after straight ahead, following the power lines. from below, threading between the head- Completed in January 2006, the full
the sewage works) you come to in town. An- A wire fence will gradually separate you land and fez-shaped Table Rock. Otherwise, trail extends from Apollo Bay to Glena-
glesea Backpackers (%5263 2664; angleseabackpacke from the lines, but at the break in the fence, follow the cliff path, with its frequent views, mple Homestead, adjacent to the Twelve
[email protected]; 40 Noble St; dm $20-23, d $60-70; i) head through and back to the rubbly road to reach Split Point Lighthouse in about 30 Apostles, a distance of 91km. The section
is run by a surfer but welcomes walkers. under the lines. minutes. Built in 1891, the White Queen, described here covers the most remote and
 144 G R E AT O C E A N R OA D G re a t O c e a n W a l k H i g h l i g h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT O C E A N R OA D G re a t O c e a n W a l k H i g h l i g h t 145

dramatic piece of the track, along beaches to Glenample Homestead in this case. You www.vline.com.au) runs a Friday service be- acre property surrounding the Glenample
and cliffs that most people dont know exist must register your walking and camping tween Melbourne and Warrnambool that Homestead. It has a self-contained cottage
since they cant be seen from the Great intentions registration forms are available stops at Lavers Hill ($45, 5 hours). sleeping up to eight people. Access is from
Ocean Road. It is a section that the tracks on the Great Ocean Walk website (www Simpson Rd, east of the homestead.
creators have dubbed the wild side, in .greatoceanwalk.com.au). Great interest in Johanna
comparison to the eastern end of the walk, the walk is anticipated and you should try %03 GETTING THERE & AWAY
known as the mild side. to register around six weeks ahead. Set behind the dunes of one of the states Princetown is 30km west of Lavers Hill,
The walk begins on roads that loop in- Fires are banned along the track, so carry fiercest surf beaches, and right next to the just off the Great Ocean Road. The Fri-
land, but the coastal sections thereafter a fuel stove. trailhead, Johanna camping ground has day V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) service
more than compensate. You will wander grassy areas and toilets. At the time of writ- from Melbourne to Warrnambool stops at
gorgeous Milanesia Beach and climb almost NEAREST TOWNS & FACILITIES ing it was free to camp here, but this is likely the Princetown turnoff on the Great Ocean
continuously across coastal ridges for the A number of accommodation providers to change. There are a few self-contained Road ($50, 6 hours). The general-store
first two days (on Day 1 alone your ascents along the Great Ocean Walk will transport cottages tucked along the Red and Blue Jo- owners can also arrange transport to Mel-
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
total more than 800m) each with a subtle you to and from the trail each day. For a hanna Rds. Of these, the Boomerangs (%5237 bourne ($20).
variation on the view. As an alternative, selection of recommended places, log on 4213; www.theboomerangs.com; 3815 Great Ocean Road;
you can begin on Milanesia Track, park- to www.greatoceanwalk.com.au/search d $200) wins on novelty value for its shape GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
ing by the large gate near its end. While _accomm.asp. (boomerang), design (jarrah floors and Johanna Beach car park is reached along
this does cut out the first section of road, vaulted ceilings) and views (the Southern either sealed Red Johanna Rd (10km east
you will also miss some good early views Lavers Hill Ocean). Closer to the beach are Johanna Sea- of Lavers Hill) or unsealed Blue Johanna Rd
of Johanna Beach. %03 side Cottages (%5237 4242; www.johannaseaside.com (4km east of Lavers Hill) the car park is at
Lavers Hill is the high point of the Great .au; 395 Red Johanna Rd; d $185-200; s), each with the end of the roads. Glenample Homestead
PLANNING Ocean Road, at least geographically. De- spa and wood fires, though theres a mini- is on the Great Ocean Road, 5km west of
When to Walk spite the general feeling of abandonment, mum two-night stay. Princetown.
It is quite feasible to walk this track at any there are a couple of good sleeping and eat- Timboon Taxi Service (%0438 407 777) will
time of year. Winters can be fierce it is not ing options. Princetown transport you from Glenample Homestead
called the Shipwreck Coast for nothing Lavers Hill Roadhouse (%5237 3251; Great Ocean %03 to Johanna Beach (or vice-versa) for around
but also show this rugged coast at its most Road; unpowered/powered sites for 2 $12/17, d without Bypassed by the Great Ocean Road, tiny $50. Walk 91 (%03-5237 1189) also offers a
dramatic, if you can put up with the extra bath $48) is as basic as Lavers Hill itself. Hope Princetown is princely only in name. With shuttle for around $65. Both can transport
discomfort. This is also the season when for the unlikely a log-truck-free night as the air of a roadhouse stop, it can be a nice you between all accessible points along the
you might spot southern rights whales on it is right by the road. antidote to the frills and frenzy of other Great Ocean Walk.
their annual migration. The decor in the tiny rooms at Otway Great Ocean Road towns.
Junction Motor Inn (%5237 3295; Great Ocean Road; Apostles Camping Park (% 5598 8119; www THE WALK
Maps d $89-140) fancies that it is in Italy but the .apostlescampingpark.com; unpowered/powered sites for 2 Day 1: Johanna Beach Car Park to
Vicmaps 1:50,000 topographic map The views are all Otways. The attached Otway $18/22, cabins $50; i) is grass disguised as a Ryans Den Camp Site
Otways & Shipwreck Coast covers the area Junction Bistro (mains $18-30; hbreakfast, lunch & camping ground but has great views over 45 hours, 14.4km, 850m ascent, 750m descent
of the described route (and of the entire dinner) does pub-style meals in a Tuscan set- the lower Gellibrand River. The office is the At the northern end of the car park begin
Great Ocean Walk), though it doesnt show ting. As a bonus, there is a great selection general store, as is Do Duck in Caf (mains $5-7), west, through two farm gates. The farm
the track. Use it with Parks Victorias Great of biscuits. serving sandwiches, baked potatoes, nachos track climbs high onto the coastal hills,
Ocean Walk Information and Map Guide Southern Heights B&B (%5237 3131; Great Ocean and the like. with surprisingly good views of the farm-
brochure for the most complete resource. Road; www.southernheights.com.au; d $115-149) is 4km Theres also camping at the Princetown land below. In about 10 minutes you round
west of town and by far the pick of the litter. camping reserve (p148). the first hill, coming to a small saddle with
Information Sources Perched on an open hilltop, there are two Talk of the Town (%5598 8288; talkofthetown views back along Johanna Beach, invariably
Being the newest walking trail in the modern rooms the better one has a view [email protected]; motel r & cabins $100) wears more being assaulted by surf. If you turn back
country, it is not surprising that the Great along the coast to Point Flinders, near Cape hats than a milliner, being a tavern (mains $14- left and walk for 200m you will find the
Ocean Walk has its own website www Otway. Adults only. 21; hlunch & dinner), motel, greasy spoon and Johanna Beach walkers camp site.
.greatoceanwalk.com.au. You will find Foggy Hill Bistro (lunch $11.50, mains $15-23; pizzeria (pizzas $7-17; hdinner). There are two Stay high on the hillsides, ignoring gates
most details you might need on the site, hlunch & dinner) is attached to the roadhouse tiny motel rooms and a dorm-style cabin to the left signposted Management Vehicles
or check with Parks Victoria (p127). The and worth seeking out for a traditional bis- overlooking the river wetlands. & Walkers Only there is a good view west
Great Ocean Road visitor information cen- tro menu and an inventive specials list. Clifton Lodge (% 5598 8128; cliftonlodge@big along the coast from the first gate. Coming
tre (p139) is also well schooled in details pond.com; 1450 Great Ocean Road; d $60-100) is 3km to a fence-line the track turns inland, cross-
about the new walk. GETTING THERE & AWAY west of town just 2km from Glenample ing through a final gate and joining Old
Lavers Hill is around 240km from Mel- Homestead with spacious and quiet, two- Coach Rd. Climb on through intermittent
Permits & Regulations bourne along the Great Ocean Road, or bedroom pine cottages. bush to a junction with Milanesia Track
Parks Victoria requests that all walkers go along Hwy 1 to Colac, then across the range Glenample Farmstay (%5598 8237; www.glenample (1 to 1 hours from the start). Turn left,
east to west along the track Johanna Beach through Gellibrand River. V/Line (%13 61 96; .com.au; 2621 Great Ocean Road; d $100-120) is a 2000- skirting a pine forest.
 146 G R E AT O C E A N R OA D G re a t O c e a n W a l k H i g h l i g h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R E AT O C E A N R OA D G re a t O c e a n W a l k H i g h l i g h t 147

After about 45 minutes as the road with blackberries), heading up the hill to as- barks to emerge at Ryans Den. Cross carefully The vehicle track follows ridge lines past
swings south again cross through a large cend across the high ridge of Bowker Point over the creeks slippery rock to reach the Point Reginald a nice stretch of walking
gate into a private property. The track here there are fantastic views east to Cape Otway shore with its rocks smoothly rounded by without being spectacular. After 20 to 30
descends through some beautiful eucalypt lighthouse as you climb. time and the ocean. There are also some minutes the road rounds the top of a point
woodland before making a final, steep drop After crossing through a small saddle, fantastically eroded, knobbly boulders at for a good view across to Moonlight Head.
onto Milanesia Beach. The impressive white the track parallels the coast, swinging in the mouth of the creek. Return along the At a track junction soon after, veer right,
headland to the east is Lion Headland. and out of small gullies and climbing across same path. descending into a gully and then climbing
Walk west along the beach for 300m to another ridge to reach the junction with onto a low spur, which you follow inland.
a prominent spur. If it is high tide or large the Ryans Den Track (the Side Trip, below, Day 2: Ryans Den Camp Site to Look out for a narrow pillar of remnant
seas you will need to take the track below turns left here). Devils Kitchen Camp Site rock to the left of the track; just beyond
the spur, climbing steeply away from the Contour above Ryans Den (the small 56 hours, 15.2km, 500m ascent, 500m descent here, the track steepens considerably, turn-
beach onto the cliffs (this track rejoins the cove to your left) for 500m and begin a Return to the main track, turn left (west) ing back on itself above Moonlight Head to
main walk at the next creek). Look for the steep climb on steps to round a ridge. Ryans and descend to a seasonal creek before join a road (1 to two hours from camp).
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
decision point signs on the beach. Den camp site is visible among the trees on switchbacking up the slope of the next Follow the road inland, passing Moonlight
Outside of high tide and large seas, con- the adjacent ridge. In about 10 minutes turn ridge. The climb ends steeply, following a Retreat (%03-5237 5277; www.moonlightretreat.com;
tinue along the beach, below cliffs so pit- left at a junction and walk 150m into the line of fence poles, but it does offer among d $155-295), where the B&B rooms look out to
ted with rounded rocks they resemble an camp site (1 to 1 hours from Milanesia the best views of the walk, down onto Cape the distant Twelve Apostles bring binocu-
indoor climbing wall. At the beachs end, Beach). There are eight tent sites clinging to Volney and back beyond Johanna Beach. lars if you really want to see them. Dinner
beside a deeply cut creek, take the set of the narrow ridge. The track follows the fence poles around service is available. A few minutes beyond,
steps inland. Fork left after 30 metres (the the coast for 400m, leaving them to head you come to a junction with Moonlight
right turn is the end of the high-tide track SIDE TRIP: RYANS DEN across to an old vehicle track (30 to 45 Head Rd. Turn left, returning towards the
above Milanesia Beach) and cross the creek, 1530 minutes, 800m minutes from camp). Descend and climb coast.
climbing through vegetation for 800m to an At Ryans Den Track turn left and descend steeply as the track rounds Cape Volney Veer left at the next two intersections
old vehicle track. Turn left and after 100m along the wide track, which is steep and nearing the point of the cape there is a (if you are heading towards a high tide on
branch right (the left track leads down to sometimes slippery. At its end it narrows great viewpoint just off the track, looking Wreck Beach, turn right at the first inter-
sea-edge rock platforms and is overgrown to a foot track, burrowing through paper- east along the coast. section to follow the high-water alternative)
h)
100 Nariel
Creek 1 : 133,000 0 4 km
Great Ocean Walk Highlight 10
0
50
50m 3Contour Interval 0 Johanna
Heights 2 miles
Booring

G rea
To Lavers To Lavers
Si m p s o n R

Mount Wangerrip Hill (7km) Hill (7km)

Oc

t
Acland e a n Rd
350
a

Glenample
Rd

a Rd
nR

Farmstay 20
d

0
cea

Glenample Clifton

an n

0
tO

10
Homestead

d
FINISH Lodge 50

aR
300

oh
Gre Ge
Grea

The La

Run

nn
Brown at O llib 150

eJ
Twelve 300
Gibson 10 r

ha
Blu
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tro Roa

nin
Apostles Steps HillOl 0 Yuulong

Jo
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ea

Gr
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ea Ck

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0

Red
Old

Mi
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Clifton t O

Joh
Cr

ch ce Coa 50

100
s i a Tk
an R ch

lanesia Creek
Beach Rd Princetown
eek

Rd

a
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Ri v e r R
Gellibr oad

nn
Old
d

De

Knowledge C
st Princetown 250 e ep

aR
camping ilan Cr
Oce

ive
Side Trip reserve Bushland 100 ee START

and
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Reserve
an R

Ho Johanna

15

rn
Camping

es R
Ground
d

sand ee Sutherlands

r
d k Johanna
dunes Lower Beach
100

Point Beach
Ge

Gellibrand Telecom 100 Johanna

Ronald Slippery camp site
lli

Princetown Maudes
Tower 50 Beach
br

Beach Point Point

a nd

River 50 Milanesia Lion

10

50 R Beach
Ol

Headland
0

200
d

Coa

ya
Rivernook ch Head Rd Bowker

ns
Beach Rd Great Otway ht De Point
li g
Volne y
n
Oliver National oon Wattle
Side Trip
M

Tk
50 Hill Park Hill
Devils Moonlight
Kitchen Retreat Ryans Den
Tk
Pebble camp site
Point Ryans Den
Cemetery
DAY 2
50 DAY 3 100
Devils
Southern Kitchen Marie
10

Ocean Gabrielle 15
0

& Fiji Wreck 0 Cape Southern

50 Volney
Beach Ocean
The The
Gable Gable Barge Moonlight Point
Lookout Reginald
Head
 148 G R E AT O C E A N R OA D G re a t O c e a n W a l k H i g h l i g h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R A M P I A N S N AT I O N A L PA R K E n v i r o n m e n t 149

scrub, climbing to views ahead that culmi- western extremity of the Great Dividing
GREAT OCEAN WALK nate in the Twelve Apostles. The track now Range. They comprise a long central, al-
The idea for a Great Ocean Walk was born over a bottle of port in the early 1990s among ac- winds along the cliff top, crossing a wire most continuous spine of peaks through the
commodation providers in the region, though it would be more than a decade before the dream fence and a rough road. Walk straight on Mt Difficult, Serra, Victoria and Mt Wil-
became reality in 2006. (the Side Trip, below, goes left), joining a liam Ranges. Mt William (1167m) is the
The 91km walk begins in Apollo Bay and ends beside the famed Twelve Apostles, running boardwalk across the sandy cliff tops. highest summit in the Grampians.
mostly through the newly created Great Otway National Park. Unlike the Great Ocean Road, it The track stays atop the cliffs until just The greater part of the ranges is made up
adheres to the coast for most of its length, and offers tremendous variety: beaches, cliffs, rainfor- before the beach at Gibson Steps, and the of hard, quartz-rich, western-leaning sand-
est, lighthouse and farmland, with the Twelve Apostles as a finishing post. first of the Apostles. Here, the track veers stone beds, or cuesta landforms rocky
It can be walked in five days, though its promoted as an eight-day walk, which allows you inland, descending to the Great Ocean ridges with one side steeper than the other,
to settle into the slow rhythm of the coast. Seven walker camp sites have been created along Road. Turn left along the road, then right which are the result of differing rates of
the trails length (as well as four drive-in sites), each positioned at points of great beauty. Each after about 100m, following the entrance erosion of hard and softer rock. Outcrops
camp site has a composting toilet, and all but Blanket Bay have a shelter and table. There are road up to Glenample Homestead (h10am- of granite in the Grampians are most obvi-
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
also water tanks at each site be sure to treat the water before drinking. Tent sites are spaced 5.30pm). The entrance gate on the Great ous as narrow bands in the Wonderland
throughout the bush to create a sense of removal. Ocean Road will be closed outside of the area, where vegetation is taller and rela-
The trailhead in Apollo Bay can be accessed by a V/Line (%13 99 36; www.vline.com.au) bus homestead opening hours. tively luxuriant.
service from Melbourne, and there are dedicated shuttle services (see p145) to return you to The Grampians is renowned for its flora,
Apollo Bay or in between. SIDE TRIP: CLIFTON BEACH especially wildflowers. More than 85 flow-
2030 minutes, 1km ering plant species exist in the Grampians,
For an eye-level look at the most famous and there are 18 endemic plant species. The
and pass an old cemetery on your left. After track in about 50m. The tracks hairpins al- section of the Great Ocean Road, turn left diversity of the vegetation means a great
45 minutes you come to the Gable Lookout most immediately (this road can have some at the Clifton Beach road and then right at array of habitats, ranging from wet heath-
car park. Find the signposted walking track very boggy sections), heading inland. In five the grassed parking area at its end. Follow lands to woodlands on rocky outcrops, and
at its southern end and wander out to the minutes you come to Old Coach Rd (and a narrow track through a break in the cliffs a corresponding range of animal communi-
Gable Lookout, passing a turn-off to Wreck the high-tide track above Wreck Beach). and down to Clifton Beach. The stacks of the ties. Mammals are particularly easy to spot
Beach. The lookout is atop 130m-high cliffs, Turn left (west), walking through heath and Twelve Apostles look very close from here. in the Grampians, though it will be some
among the highest in mainland Australia. scrubland keep an eye out for echidnas, time before the full effect of the January
Return to the Wreck Beach junction and which are common along this section. As 2006 bushfires is known. The most easily
turn left (west), descending through she-
oaks, grass trees and heath into a gully.
you follow the sandy road west, along the
park fence-line much of the way, there are
GRAMPIANS seen animals are the eastern grey kangaroo,
which is abundant, and the swamp wallaby.
Beyond the gully, the track parallels the
coast to a T-junction. Turn left and descend
occasional views into the agricultural Gel-
librand Valley.
NATIONAL PARK Echidnas are often seen in healthy wood-
lands throughout the park.
a seemingly endless set of steps to Wreck After about one hour, as you bottom out The Grampians are a series of mountain
Beach. Walk west (right) along the beach for beside the Gellibrand Valley, merge with an- ranges clustered together to form one of PLANNING
about 500m and you will come to the rusted other 4WD track and continue west along Victorias most outstanding natural fea- When to Walk
anchors of the Marie Gabrielle resting in a the fence-line. Fifteen minutes on, the road tures, with sandstone escarpments that rise The Grampians season is almost year-
series of rock pools at high tide they may swings inland, dropping again toward the above the Wimmera Plain like petrified round, influenced by two factors: hot sum-
be underwater. About 300m further west is Gellibrand River and then climbing through waves. Cradled inside is a host of wildlife, mers and prolific spring wildflowers. Youll
the upturned (and less evocative) anchor of the vegetated dunes behind Princetown rock art, waterfalls, fantastic rock forma- probably want to avoid too much walking
the Fiji, embedded in cement. beach. Circuit a roundabout (a trail to the tions, wildflowers and myriad bushwalking in the former but will welcome it during the
Pick around the rust-coloured boulders left heads down to Princetown Beach) and opportunities along more than 150km of latter. Rainfall is not excessive at any time
at the next point and, five minutes on (mid- follow the road out, past Princetown camping tracks. of year nearby Stawell averages around
way to the next point), turn up a flight of reserve (unpowered/powered sites $14/18) and across In January 2006 a lightning strike on Mt 580mm annually though most falls be-
stone steps, leaving the beach. Climb Gellibrand River (1 to 2 hours from Lubra, 15km south of Halls Gap, started a tween May and October.
through paperbarks, continuing west along camp). Princetown (p145) is on the hill to bushfire that burned around 130,000 hec-
a ledge to begin with, then doubling back the right a boardwalk across the wetlands tares, including almost half of the national Maps & Books
to climb to a track junction. Turn right; the into town begins just beyond the bridge. park. The two areas covered in this section The Grampians are covered by two Vicmap
Devils Kitchen camp site is five minutes Follow the road on for another 500m to were not burned, though it could be years 1:50,000 topographic maps in the Outdoor
walk east. the Great Ocean Road, but take the sharper before other popular walking areas such as Leisure series: Northern Grampians and
left turn into Old Coach Rd West. Stay with the Wonderland Range and Major Mitchell Southern Grampians. Both walks in this
Day 3: Devils Kitchen Camp Site to the road as it bends right (ignoring a foot Plateau (p187) make a full recovery. section are covered by Northern Grampi-
Glenample Homestead track that goes straight on) and, 15 minutes ans, though its a little outdated it doesnt
34 hours, 13.4km, 200m ascent, 250m descent from the Great Ocean Road, break away ENVIRONMENT show all of the Mt Stapylton track or Stapyl-
Return to the track junction and continue left onto a foot track (signposted to Clifton The Grampians extend for about 100km ton camping ground, but is accurate for the
straight on (west), turning left along a 4WD Beach). Continue through dense tea-tree northsouth and 50km eastwest at the Mt Difficult walk.
 150 G R A M P I A N S N AT I O N A L PA R K H a l l s G a p www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R A M P I A N S N AT I O N A L PA R K M t S t a p y l t o n 151

Parks Victoria has produced a series of Wonderland Range, around Lake Wartook SLEEPING & EATING hbreakfast & lunch) is the place for kangaroo
three walking brochures: Northern Walks, and in parts of the Serra, Mt William and Halls Gap Caravan Park (%5356 4251; www.hallsgap steak sandwiches, emu kebabs and other
Southern Walks and Wonderland Walks. Victoria Ranges. caravanpark.com.au; Grampians Tourist Rd; unpowered sites bush treats.
Tyrone Thomas 80 Walks in the Grampi- for 2 $19-23, powered sites for 2 $22-26, on-site caravans
ans covers exactly what the title promises, Guided Walks $47-68, cabins $71-130) is as central as a GPO GETTING THERE & AWAY
while Discovering Grampians Gariwerd by Grampians Personalised Tours & Adventures but a little spartan. Parkgate Resort (%1800 Halls Gap is about 260km from Melbourne
Alistair and Bruce Paton is an all-round (%03-5356 4653; www.grampianstours.com.au) oper- 810 781; www.parkgateresort.com.au; Grampians Rd; un- via the Western Hwy to Ararat and then via
resource, featuring colour plates of wild- ates a selection of bushwalks in the Grampi- powered sites for 2 $25-31, powered sites for 2 $27-36, Moyston or Stawell. V/Line (%13 61 96; www
flowers and details of 48 walks. ans, ranging from half-day to four days. cabins $80-175; is) has more razzle-dazzle .vline.com.au) operates a daily train and coach
The Grampians in Flower by IR McCann with tennis courts, games room and nine service from Melbourne to Halls Gap ($48,
will help you pick one petal from another. ACCESS TOWN different types of cabin. Theres also a large four hours) via Ararat and Stawell.
The last two books can be ordered from Halls Gap grassy area to camp among the kangaroos.
the Victorian National Parks Association (www %03 / population 300 Of the hostels in town, Grampians YHA Eco-
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
.vnpa.org.au). The small town of Halls Gap is pinched Hostel (%5356 4544; www.yha.com.au; cnr Grampians MT STAPYLTON
between the Wonderland Range and the Tourist Rd & Buckler St; dm/s/d $24/54/60; i) leaves Duration 44 hours
Information Sources northern tail of the Mt William Range. A the smallest footprint, with solar water Distance 12.2km
For the most detailed information about the singular tourist town, it is unobtrusive and heating, grey-water toilets and scrap bins Difficulty moderatedemanding
Grampians pay a visit to Brambuk (right). likeable and a good base for all walks in the for the chooks and worms. There are fresh Start/Finish Stapylton camping ground
Friends of Grampians Gariwerd (http://home.vicnet national park. herbs and eggs in the kitchen each morning (below)
.net.au/~gariwerd; annual membership $5) Works to The visitor information centre (%1800 065 and pot-belly stoves in the two lounges. Nearest Town Halls Gap (opposite)
conserve the park, and runs regular bushwalks. 599; Centenary Hall, Grampians Tourist Rd) has a free The self-contained cottages at DAltons
Transport private
Grampians Marketing (www.visitgrampians.com.au) accommodation booking service and can Resort (%5356 4666; www.daltonsresort.com.au; 48
Summary An exciting and scenic walk, with
Regional tourism body. The site is most useful as a link to also book tours and activities. Brambuk the Glen St; standard/deluxe/2br $100/120/140; as) are
plenty of rock hopping, to a fine mountain
accommodation around the area. National Park and Cultural Centre (%5356 4452; ringed around a grassed area popular with
summit in the northern Grampians.
www.brambuk.com.au; Dunkeld Rd) is 2.5km south kangaroos. Deluxe rooms have spa, stereo
Permits & Regulations of town and has park displays, Aboriginal and dishwasher.
There are no entry fees to the park, and sites cultural displays and activities, and rang- Pinnacle Holiday Lodge (% 5356 4249; www There are many higher peaks than Mt
at the 13 campgrounds dotted around the ers are available for walking information. .pinnacleholiday.com.au; Heath St; s & d from $89; as) has Stapylton in the Grampians, but few offer
park cost $11 for two people. Bush camp- Theres also a good bookshop with some the wonderful knack of being both central such exhilarating and rewarding climbs.
ing is permitted anywhere except in the bushwalking titles. and well hidden, tucked away behind Stony Between sections of well-made walking
Creek Stores. The rooms are arranged to track, theres plenty of rock hopping, some
maximise views of the Wonderland Range. moderate scrambling and a close-up look
GARIWERD Mountain View Motor Inn (%5356 4364; www at one of the most imposing and colourful
The Grampians original inhabitants were two Koori (Aboriginal) peoples, the Djab wurrung and .mountainviewmotorinn.com.au; Ararat Rd; d $90-105, cliffs in the country. If youve ever dreamed
Jandwardjali, for whom the mountains were known as Gariwerd. In 1991 the national park was cottages $135-180; a) has a standard wing of that youd like to be a rock climber, this
even renamed Gariwerd, but was changed back to Grampians National Park the next year when motel rooms but well-spaced cottages for a place might just inspire you to give it a go.
a new state government came to power. camp-like sense of isolation.
The importance of the mountains as a Koori cultural site is evident in the number of art sites The general store (Grampians Tourist Rd) has a NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
among the escarpments. There are more than 100 rock-art sites in the Grampians or about good range of groceries and some camping See Halls Gap (opposite).
80% of all rock-art sites in Victoria. Five of these are promoted as tourist sites, two of which are gear; dont rely on it for anything useful.
located near Mt Stapylton. The small rock overhang of Ngamadjidj is reached along a 300m loop Halls Gap Hotel (Grampians Rd; mains $14-23; Stapylton Camping Ground
walk out of Stapylton camping ground and features a line of white human figures (Ngamadjidj hlunch & dinner) has a fairly unimaginative In view of the Mount of Olives, Stapylton
means white person). It is thought to be a place where people camped and repaired tools. A menu (barring the half-dozen things it can camping ground ($11) has toilets, an untreated
short drive away, reached on a 700m walk from the Hollow Mountain car park, is Gulgurn Manja, do with a chicken schnitzel) but is about the water source and a great location. Theres
which features hand prints of Koori children around eight to 12 years old. best value in town. Fall into step with the room for caravans. To reach the camp from
The most evident sign of Koori cultural influence is the presence of Brambuk the National Park Trekkers T-bone. Halls Gap, turn west onto Grampians Rd,
and Cultural Centre (above). The building is designed to reflect the contours of the Grampians Quarry (%5356 4858; Stony Creek Stores, Grampians travelling 43km to Plantation Rd. Turn
mountains and a cockatoo the totemic symbol of both the Djab wurrung and Jandwardjali Tourist Rd; mains $22-30; hlunch & dinner) overlooks right; Stapylton camping ground is 5km
people in flight. Stony Creek and the tips of the Wonder- along this road (the final 2km is unsealed).
Brambuk means belonging to the Bram brothers, key figures in the legendary creation of land Range, and has a menu that ranges If travelling from the Western Hwy, Planta-
the mountains. For the Kooris, Brambuk symbolises their renewal after nearly two centuries across the globe. Try the Razor Back Stack tion Rd is 25km along Grampians Rd.
under European domination. Here, Kooris teach visitors about their cultural practices, stories, for the visual equivalent of a sandstone pin-
beliefs and management of the land. You can also sample some bush food at the Brambuk nacle. Bookings advised. THE WALK
Bush Tucker Cafe (opposite). Brambuk Bush Tucker Cafe (Brambuk the Na- The walk starts at the western end of the
tional Park and Cultural Centre, Dunkeld Rd; mains $8-16; camping ground and immediately crosses
 152 G R A M P I A N S N AT I O N A L PA R K M t D i f f i c u l t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com G R A M P I A N S N AT I O N A L PA R K M t D i f f i c u l t 153

Mt Stapylton left along a wide sandstone ramp, round- The route described here can be varied Cross back over the creek and begin a
1 : 90,000 0 2 km ing the beautifully fretted sandstone cliffs. in a couple of ways. For a long day outing steep, winding climb through the lower

20
0
50m Contour Interval 0 1 mile
ap- F l at
Then comes a slightly awkward scramble you can beeline straight for the peak by escarpment. Cut back across a small creek
G Rd
Mt Zero ck up a 2m chimney, an airy traverse and a following the Day 2 description in reverse. to a second line of rock, mottled here like
Ro s

(391m)
ll

Hollow
Ha

Iskra
Mt Zero
Mtn car
park
Gulgurn Crag
Manja
final scramble up to the rocky summit of An equally popular approach is to climb the hide of an elephant. Briggs Bluff is the
picnic area
Hollow
Mt Stapylton. The view takes in Mt Zero and Mt Difficult from Troopers Creek camping tall, pointed peak ahead. Begin ascending

35
350
Hollow Mountain nearby, the Victoria and ground at its foot, spending the night in one this next section on the rock before funnel-
0
Mtn(388m)
Flat
Rock
Taipan
Mt Difficult Ranges and, to the west, Mt of the camp sites near Deep Creek. Both ling into a small, stony gully.
Bird-
shaped Wall Arapiles, looking like Uluru in miniature. these options can mean sacrificing sunset At the head of the gully the track swings
450

rock Mt Stapylton
Return to the last track junction and bear on Mt Difficult, which is the reward you south, climbing again to a wide ledge over-
450
right towards Mt Zero picnic area. In a cou- want for a day of walking effort. looking the cleft of Mud Hut Creek. Here, the
Mount of
Olives4
ple of minutes you begin a great descent Mt Difficult was untouched by the bush- track flattens, heading south atop the ledge
Grampians
down a broad band of rock hundreds of fires of January 2006 but was burnt back in (the trig point on Mt Difficult is visible
25

50
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
National
0

35
Park 0
Poh
ln er R
metres long, with the colourful Taipan Wall January 1999, when a bushfire burned more ahead). Follow the obvious track across
d 400
soaring above. This striped wall is among than 5000 hectares of the national park (as rock and sand for about 15 minutes before
d
the most challenging climbing walls in the well as surrounding areas). Theres little swinging east to cross a small gully and
rR
START/
FINISH M
illa Golton
Gorge
country. For those not into harnesses and sign of fire damage now. climb towards the cave-riddled cliffs. Pass-
To Grampians
karabiners its also one of the most attractive Navigation is fairly simple along this ing between a pair of giant boulders the
0

Stapylton Ngamadjidj
35

Rd (4km)
camping ground
bits of rock architecture in the land. Soon route with all track junctions marked by sil- track veers north, following the foot of the
youll pass a large remnant of sandstone ver plaques showing tracks and distances. cliffs to a track junction (one hour from
over narrow, unsealed Millar Rd. Follow shaped like a bird. Beehive Falls).
the track west through open bush popular Keep right of a deep ravine and re-enter PLANNING Turn right (the left turn goes to Briggs
with eastern grey kangaroos to Pohlner woodland. A few minutes on (30 to 45 What to Bring Bluff; see p155), walking east through eu-
Rd. Cross straight over and follow a clear minutes from the summit), turn left. (If There are no reliable water sources along calypt woodland. In about 200m you pass
path through bushland for about 100m to you have the time, its worth wandering the route of this walk so you will need to through a number of camp sites. Scram-
a junction. Bear right towards a break in straight on for about 400m to Flat Rock, carry your entire supply; allow at least 6L. ble through one line of rock and then edge
the ridge, climbing through it on a series of which offers the best views of Mt Stapylton around the base of the next to reach a track
short flights of sandstone steps. The track and Taipan Wall). The main track heads Permits & Regulations junction. Turn left, descending past some
reaches a broad ridge and swings north, through woodland below Mt Stapylton and All walkers on this route are required to camp sites to cross one arm of Deep Creek
climbing more gently through stringybark the Mount of Olives, with good views of their fill out a trip intention form at Brambuk (which will almost certainly be anything
woodland. classic Grampians cliffs. About 40 minutes (p150). You will be required to contact but deep) and then climbing steeply to the
Merge with a track coming in from the along this track you arrive back at the track Brambuk when you finish walking or a foot of the cliffs ahead. Swing first east and
southeast, veering left and continuing along junction above Pohlner Rd. Turn right and search will be initiated. The walk is also then west at their base, gradually climbing
the ridge. Soon you emerge onto a rib of retrace your steps to the camping ground. through a fuel-stove-only area (despite all through the cliffs. At the last line of cliffs,
rock (one hour from the start) with good the heavy camp-fire scars youll see), so no the track breaks left through a narrow gap
views of the rugged Mt Difficult Range to fires are allowed. in the wall, and you are rewarded with a
the south. Edge along the west side of the MT DIFFICULT view south along the Mt Difficult Range
rock rib and descend back into woodland. Duration 2 days NEAREST TOWN and across the plains to Mt Langi Ghiran.
For the next 15 minutes or so, the route Distance 22.6km See Halls Gap (p150). Cross two more inlets of Deep Creek
switches between the sandy track and seams Difficulty moderatedemanding (there is a good camp site at the first
of rock. At the edge of a deep cleft, descend Start/Finish Beehive Falls car park THE WALK crossing) and continue on south through
steeply to a gully. The path soon heads back Nearest Town Halls Gap (p150) Day 1: Beehive Falls Car Park to stringybark, banksias and grass trees. Soon,
out onto rock; about 50m on, look up to the Transport private Mt Difficult Saddle as you begin rounding Deep Creek Gorge,
right to spot a red triangle, indicating the Summary Climb through sandstone cliffs to 45 hours, 14.9km, 1050m ascent, 500m descent there are fleeting views of Lake Wartook,
line upwards for a short but steep scramble. the highest peak in the northern Grampians Begin south from the car park on a wide cradled in the centre of the Mt Difficult
Turn left along a wide rock ramp, dropping and arguably the ranges best viewpoint; a trail through open eucalypt woodland. The Range. Pass through another camp site,
away left again after about 50m. At the base sunset stunner. track soon comes to often-dry Mud Hut veering right at the large, worn boulder in
of the rock turn left. Quickly the track swings Creek, following it to a wooden bridge at the camp.
back right, generally skirting the cliffs. As- the base of the escarpment. Cross the bridge Soon after, you begin a gradual climb
cend to a track junction and turn right. True to its name, Mt Difficult doesnt yield and ascend on stone steps to the foot of through bush all but air-brushed orange
Climb back to the now-narrow ridge top, easily but its arguably the best long walk in Beehive Falls (20 to 30 minutes from the car with lichen. Thirty minutes from the last
dropping off the eastern side to the base the Grampians. Though its summit is just park). You will need to be here in winter camp site, turn right and descend through
of the summit cliffs. The track turns up 806m above sea level, its an indication of or spring to see the falls at anything more stringybark woodland to join a disused
into a gorge-like break in the cliffs. Cross the terrain that you will climb more than than a dribble, though its a beautiful and 4WD track. Veer left along the track (there
the gully above a rock fall and double back 1000m on the first day to reach it. cool spot at any time. is a decent camp site to the right) and, in
 154 G R A M P I A N S N AT I O N A L PA R K M t D i f f i c u l t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S 155

400 1 : 55,000 is relentless for about 20 to 30 minutes,

Mt Difficult
VICTORIAN ALPS
0 2 km
50m Contour Interval 0 1 mile
but then flattens out, contouring north.
ek
Turning west the track squeezes between
gs Cre two boulders and climbs more gently Rising about 100km northeast of Melbourne
Br i g
now up to a small saddle just below the and stretching for 250km right to the New
200
summit of Mt Difficult (about 45 minutes South Wales (NSW) border is a mountain-
START/
FINISH
from the Long Point Fire Line). There are a ous region of high ridges, plateaus and deep
300 Roses Grampians few good camp sites here; set up your tent valleys collectively known as the Victorian
Beehive Falls National
Gap
car park Park and then take the track north out of camp Alps. The Alps are home to the highest
0

k
Elevation
45

Cr
ee for about 100m. Turn left onto a path that mountains in the state; from the tallest
ut turns in behind the first line of rock and peaks, the views are almost limitless as range
H Mt Difficult
ud Saddle
M Briggs Briggs then winds easily up to the summit of Mt after range fades towards the horizon. The
Bluff (start) Bluff (start)
800
Difficult (806m). The view from here is a Great Dividing Range, which parallels the
350
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
Beehive Beehive
Beehive Falls Falls
600
whats-what of the Grampians: Mt Stapy- east coast of Australia from western Victoria
d
pR

Falls Mt Difficult

400
400
lton and Mt Zero to the north; and Mt right up to Cape York in Queensland, forms
Ga

Mt Difficult Mt Difficult
Range Range
450
s es

200
Rosea, Mt William and its tower, and the the backbone of the Alps, rising to a height
Ro

Beehive Falls Car Park Beehive Falls Car Park

eek

0m
trailing line of the Serra Range to the south. of 1986m at Mt Bogong.
Cr

0km 5 10 15 20
Its well worth getting here for sundown; Much of the region is contained within
rs
0

300
30

Mt
pe

Briggs
oo

Bluff
on a good night its one of the best sunset a number of national parks, the largest of

Ze
0

Tr
30

(619m)

ro
vantage points in the state. which, at 646,000 hectares, is the Alpine

Rd
Side Trip
National Park. (Other smaller but equally
400

50
0
SIDE TRIP: BRIGGS BLUFF important High Country parks are Baw
550

45 minutes1 hour, 2.4km return, 80m ascent Baw National Park and Mt Buffalo National
350

Dead

At the Briggs Bluff junction turn left and Park.) The Alpine National Park abuts Ko-
head north. The route is marked by small sciuszko National Park, creating a massive
Bu

350
550
llock

400 cairns and the polished line of years of zone protecting most of the countrys al-
Cr Mount Difficult eek
ee Cr walking use. Generally descend for about pine regions. Unfortunately, the boundaries
600

k Range Foot Track ep

De
800m, until you cross a wooded gully. From of the Alpine National Park have been crea-
500

here, ascend on bare rock to the summit of tively routed so that pockets of alpine ash
450
700
450

Briggs Bluff (619m). From the top, youll see and other mountain hardwoods still see the
ge

lumpy Mt Stapylton to the northwest, the frequent activity of timber getters. Another
an

450
distant bubble of Mt Arapiles to the west oddity is that cattle grazing has continued
R

0
300

35 0
lt 30
and the ramped summit of Mt Difficult in some sectors of the park for many years,
Trooper

cu
65

i
ff
i to the south. Return to the junction along though this practice seems likely to cease
650
0

D
75
s

t
the same path. beyond 2006 due to recent Victorian Gov-
Creek

M To Halls
Gap (24km)
400

Mt Difficult
(806m)
ernment legislation.
DAY 2
Day 2: Mt Difficult Saddle to The Victorian Alps are a tourist attrac-
500
550

600

Beehive Falls Car Park tion year-round. Pretty towns can be found
600

550
50

23 hours, 7.7km, 550m descent in the valleys around the area, each cater-
0

Take the track north out of camp again, ing for the traveller and offering a good
70
0
Mac

passing the turn-off to Mt Difficult, and base from which to explore the mountains.
int Fire Line
70

kenz
0

Tilwinda heading out across sandstone slabs and In winter, downhill skiers flock in large
ie

Falls 60
70

into woodland. Passing through a camp numbers to the major ski resorts of Falls
Rive

0
650

0
Po

site, after 600m the track climbs to the Creek, Mt Buller and Mt Hotham, and to
r

To Troopers Creek
Long

Grampians
700

camping ground (7km)

65

National edge of a large seam of rock. Walk along its smaller areas at Mt Baw Baw and Mt Buf-
0

Park
base, and then edge away to continue north falo. Rolling plains and rounded summits
across nicely smoothed slabs. After about make cross-country skiing popular, while
another 300m, turn right onto the Long A few minutes past the second crossing the 40 minutes you enter a beautifully sculpted bush camping, 4WD driving and fishing are
Point Fire Line, a management vehicle track hairpins south, crossing three streams section of rock, which is more reminiscent popular in the summer months.
track. Heading back north the track crosses to a junction with a foot track. Theres a of the Wonderland Range than Mt Diffi- But by far the best way to see the most
two arms of the Mackenzie River (look for camp site here that can be a good option as cult. A few minutes on you come to a junc- attractive, captivating and isolated parts of
beautiful coral ferns at both crossings). the stream beside it is the most likely of any tion, turning left to rejoin your outward the Victorian Alps is on foot. This huge
These tiny streams flow on to become one along the walk to contain water. route. Swing left at the Briggs Bluff turning area is well covered by a network of walking
of the Grampians most impressive attrac- Turn right and begin climbing beside the and descend back past Beehive Falls to the tracks and old 4WD roads, giving relatively
tions: Mackenzie Falls. fern-lined creek. The switchbacking climb car park. easy access to most of the scenic country.
 156 V I C T O R I A N A L P S H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S E n v i r o n m e n t 157

Victorian Alps 0
0
30 km
20 miles the heads of the valleys, then over the Alps Kosciuszko National Park in NSW, and ex-
Lake Walwa Pine at Mt Hotham, so that a large section of perience a similar climate (see p85).
NEW SOUTH WALES
Mulwala Murr
ay Riv
er
Mountain
(1062m)
the mountains became readily accessible
Yarrawonga
Albury
Talgarno Granya
Burrowa-Pine
Mountain National Tintaldra
to travellers. Bushwalking boomed in the PLANNING
Wodonga Bellbridge
y Valle
Park
Towong 1920s and was given further impetus by Its essential to be well prepared for a walk
rra C548
M31 B400 Tallangatta M u y
Corryong
the Great Depression of the 1930s and is in the mountains, as weather conditions
Stanley Forest Bullioh Hwy
State Red Bluff
Berringama Khancoban still a most popular pastime today, while can be severe at times, even in summer.
Yackandandah
Mt Burrowa NEW tourism has become one of the regions The Gearing up for the Mountains boxed
(1300m)
Devenish C543 SOUTH
Wangaratta Beechworth
C315
C531
C545 WALES most prosperous industries. text (p39) has further information.

M
Lake Ov
ens

ur
Mokoan Ri Gr Gapsted Tallandoon Mitta
eat

ra
ver
ENVIRONMENT When to Walk

Kie
A300 Oxley

y R
Milawa C527 Eskdale

Hw

itt
Glenrowan

wa

a
M31 Al Dartmouth
King Riv

C522 Riv

ive
y
Benalla pi Mitta Mitta er The flora and fauna of the Victorian Alps Winter is unsuitable for walking, not only

V
Myrtleford ne C534

alle

r
Omey
Rd

Hw
Lake
Midland

y Moyhu
varies little from what you can expect because of the deep snow that covers many

y
Dartmouth
VIC TORIA

Fw

VIC TORIA
B500

o
er

Mt Buffalo
me
Hu King
Valley
National Park Porepunkah
1 Mt Bogong
with Kosciuszko National Park; youre less parts of the walking areas described here,
Walking Track
Hw

Tatong 4 likely to see emus and feral pigs on any of but also because seasonal road closures af-

s
Alp
To (1986m)
y

Whitfield Bright Mt Beauty

B300 an
Euroa C526 trali the walks in the Victorian High Country, fect access to some places. For the most part,

ge
(15km) The Horn Mt Buffalo Bogong Falls Aus

n
(1723m) Chalet

Ra
Mt Samaria Creek
Harrietville
2 Glen Valley though deer (feral in Australia) are com- you can walk any time between October and
State Park Mt Feathertop
Wabonga
Plateau
(1922m)
C545
mon, particularly in the Mt Howitt area. April, though the most popular months are
Bonnie Dinner Anglers Rest Alpine
B300 Doon
Mirimbah
T r ack Plain
Benambra National More detailed information can be garnered January to March when the days are usually
g Park
Mansfield Mt Stirling lkin ng Mt Hotham Mt Hotham
from the Kosciuszko National Parks Envi- warm, the weather is generally stable and
s Wa i (1860m) Airport Tr ac k
d Walkin g
Lake Merrijig (1747m)
ust ra
lian Alp
D ivi Omeo Snowy River ronment section (p83). wildflowers put on their best displays.
Eildon Mt Buller 3 A Mt Speculation National Park
Alexandra Lake Eildon (1805m) Mt Buller Wo

Bu
Alpine Village nn
a

cha
Eildon National
Park Howqua
at
ng
att
Road
Closed in CLIMATE Maps & Books

n River
a
Gre
B340 Mt Howitt
Dar

Jamieson Winter Swifts Creek

Maroondah Hwy

The Victorian Alps are part of the same There are many good general maps cover-
River

Cathedral Gr
go River

o Alpine ea
G

Range Mt Torbreck ulbu t

State Park (1514m) rn National
Walking Track mountain range that forms the heart of the ing the Australian and Victorian Alps. One
Alpine Rd
Park
River

Lake Mountain Gaffneys

(1433m) Creek Dargo
Marysville Buchan
Woods Point AUSTRALIAN ALPS WALKING TRACK
Yarra Ranges To
National Park C511 Matlock Licola Mitchell River B500
Orbost
C608 (7km)
This challenging, and at times spectacular, Sydney
Mt Donna Upper Yarra Lake National Park
Buang Reservoir Thomson
C601
Nowa long-distance walk traverses about 680km
(1250m) Nowa
of alpine country and summits Australias N E W S O U T H W A L E S
Warburton Mt Baw Baw Mt St Gwinear
(1514m) Lake
A1 Tyers highest peaks. Starting from the tiny historic
To Yarra (1564m) Bairnsdale
C486
Junction Baw Baw Canberra
C425 C426 Baw Baw National H wy
ceEagleVictorian
s Point
Metung
Alps Maps Tyers Lake village of Walhalla in Victoria, it ends at the
Alpine Village Prin Raymond Lakes
Noojee Park
Maffra A1 1 Mt Paynesville
Bogong Entrance p160 Namadgi Visitor Centre on the southern out- V I C T O R I A Mt Bogong Mt Kosciuszko
Bunyip Island
Erica Walhalla Heyfield Stradford C106
State Park 2 Mt Feathertop & the Razorback p166
A1 Rotamah Island skirts of Canberra in the Australian Capital Mt Howitt
3 Mt Speculation & the Crosscut SawStraitp170
Bass
To Moe To Sale (18km); 4 Mt Buffalo Plateau p173 Territory (ACT). Melbourne Walhalla
Melbourne (241km)
(30km) When the original plan for a Victorian
Alpine Walking Track was mooted in the
HISTORY In the 1880s and 1890s, there was an in- 1940s it was met with much disdain by
Evidence suggests that this region was first flux of graziers and miners (after the discov- walkers who wanted to keep the mountains free of marked trails. However, in the 1950s and
visited by Aboriginal people at least 5000 ery of gold deposits). Prospectors pushed 60s, with logging and tourist roads pushing further into the Victorian mountains and slowly
years ago, and even earlier in the surround- far up the valleys, and some even high onto eroding the wilderness value of popular walking destinations, the idea of an Alpine Walking
ing lowlands. They gathered on the moun- the mountains. While most sources of gold Track became increasingly popular.
tain plains during the summer months to eventually ran dry, the Red Robin mine The 400km Alpine Walking Track was completed in 1976 and stretched from Walhalla to the
feed on the protein-rich Bogong moths, (near Mt Hotham), founded in 1941, re- Victorian border at Tom Groggin (near Thredbo), but it was not until the early 1990s that the
which they found in cracks and fissures in mains a viable, small-time operation. track was extended through the high country of NSW and the ACT as well, creating the Austral-
rocks. But it was not until the mid-1800s Locals, appreciating the scenic beauty of ian Alps Walking Track.
when European Australians first reached the mountains, began promoting the area The track, most of which is clearly marked, takes about eight weeks to walk in total, but
the Alps. One of the first visits to the highest with brochures and guided walks. Residents most walkers tend to complete sections of the track as shorter, less demanding tours. If you are
areas was made by two graziers, Jim Brown from the town of Bright formed the Bright interested in walking the entire track remember that no major towns are passed (only a few ski
and Jack Wells, who traversed the Bogong Alpine Club in 1887 and members led ex- villages), so it is necessary to store food caches at designated points beforehand.
High Plains in 1851. They named many of cursions to the mountains in both sum- The best source of information on the track is John Sisemans Australian Alps Walking Track.
todays well-known features, including Mt mer and winter; Mts Buffalo (p171) and This excellent guide includes detailed track notes, as well as background information on history,
Feathertop, Mt Fainter and Pretty Valley, Feathertop (p164) being two of their most environment, climate, flora and fauna, camping, and maps.
and cut the areas first stock routes. visited areas. Roads were gradually cut to
 158 V I C T O R I A N A L P S B r i g h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B o g o n g 159

of the better maps is High Country Victo- INFORMATION Theres no shortage of takeaway food altitude, but its gratifying nonetheless, and
ria, published by Hema Maps. It provides The Bright Visitor Centre (%5755 2275; www outlets in town, including two bakeries, the scenery more than compensates for any
a good overview of the area at a scale of .brightescapes.com.au; 119 Gavan St; h9am-5pm) has one in Gavan St and one at the top end of effort. The two side trips, to West Peak and
1:300,000. plenty of information for travellers and Ireland St. For self-caterers, there are two the cascading Howmans Falls, could easily
A few handy guidebooks with extensive has a helpful accommodation booking service supermarkets, both in Ireland St. be completed from a base camp at Cleve
walking notes include Bushwalks in the (%1300 551 117). Theres also a Parks Victoria Cole Hut, extending the trip to three days.
Victorian Alps by Glenn van der Knijff, a office (%5755 0000; 46 Bakers Gully Rd), which can GETTING THERE & AWAY
full-colour guide, and Victorias Alpine Na- offer advice on the condition of roads in the Bright is 306km northeast of Melbourne by PLANNING
tional Park by John Siseman. Both guides surrounding mountains. road, first along the Hume Fwy (M31), then It should be noted that this is a very ex-
include track notes to a number of walks along the Great Alpine Rd (B500). posed walk in sections and you must have
and plenty of photographs, as well as ample SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) operates a strong weatherproof tent, wet-weather
background and planning information. The shopping strip is on Ireland St, where a daily train/bus combination between Mel- gear, good sleeping bag, warm clothes and
Australian Alps Kosciuszko, Alpine & there are various shops, takeaway outlets, bourne and Bright (adult/child $49.20/24.60, a fuel stove. Cleve Cole Hut does have a
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
Namadgi National Parks by Deirdre Slattery cafs, supermarkets and Bright Disposals & 4 hours). number of bunk beds, but its often full and
has some track notes, but also contains loads Outdoor Centre (%5755 1818; 9 Ireland St) selling a shouldnt be relied upon. As well, theres
of other information on the environment, variety of outdoor and camping equipment. often no water available on the climb to Mt
history and development of the Victorian There are a few banks and a post office on MT BOGONG Bogong until you reach the camp site, so
Alps and Snowy Mountains region. Gavan St, just uphill of the visitor centre. Duration 2 days make sure you carry plenty of water (1.5L
Distance 26.5km to 2L should suffice).
Information Sources SLEEPING & EATING Standard moderatedemanding
The best places for information on the There is a plethora of caravan parks in and Start/Finish Mountain Creek Camping Maps
region, including accommodation, trans- around Bright. The largest is Bright Caravan Area (p161) Vicmaps 1:50,000 topographic map Bogong
port, maps and books, are visitor centres in Park (%5755 1141; www.brightcaravanpark.com.au; 1 Nearest Town Mt Beauty & Tawonga Alpine Area, part of the Outdoor Leisure
Bright, Mt Beauty and Mansfield. Cherry Lane; unpowered/powered sites for 2 from $20/24, South (right) Map series, is the best choice. It shows a
The Australian Alps National Parks (www cabins from $55), occupying a shady location Transport private good level of track detail with a 20m con-
.australianalps.deh.gov.au) website is a useful beside Morses Creek and only a short walk Summary A long ascent to Victorias highest tour interval.
source of background information on the from the town centre. summit along good tracks, then a panoramic
Alps region. Bright Hikers Backpackers Hostel (%5750 1244; ridge walk to Camp Valley. As well as great Permits & Regulations
www.brighthikers.com.au; 4 Ireland St; dm/s/d $21/30/44; views, the route passes an old stone hut and The walk falls within a fuel-stove-only area.
Permits & Regulations i) has a cosy atmosphere and a great an isolated mountain waterfall. No campfires are permitted, so you must
There are no camping fees for bush camp- veranda overlooking the main shopping carry a fuel stove for cooking.
ing in the Alpine National Park, although street.
there is a charge for using a camp site at the Elm Lodge Holiday Motel (%5755 1144; www A big brute of a mountain, accessible only NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
established camping ground in Mt Buffalo .elmlodge.com.au; 2 Wood St; s/d from $55/70; s) sits by long, demanding climbs, Mt Bogong was Mt Beauty & Tawonga South
National Park (p172). Mt Buffalo National amid pleasant gardens and is a popular for many years familiar only to local cattle- %03 / pop 1650
Park also charges a vehicular entrance fee place for backpackers. Nearby, the comfort- men. They drove their cattle to the moun- At the head of the Kiewa Valley, Mt Beauty
(p172). able John Bright Motor Inn (%5755 1400; www tain tops each summer to graze on the sweet (and its adjoining town of Tawonga South)
One major restriction to be aware of is .albury.net.au/~jbmotel/; 10 Wood St; s/d from $85/90) herbs and grasses that grow in profusion. is an excellent base for walks on Mt Bogong
that no campfires are permitted in the areas has motel-style accommodation and is only Over the years the cattlemen cut paths on and the Bogong High Plains. Confusingly,
surrounding the summits of Mts Bogong a few minutes walk from the shops. which they drove their cattle. By the early Mt Beauty is not a mountain, but a small
and Feathertop, as these are declared as Jackies (%5750 1303; 6 Ireland St; breakfasts $6-11, 1900s Mt Bogong had been discovered by country town that survives on tourism and
fuel-stove-only areas. mains $5-12; hbreakfast & lunch) offers a multi- bushwalkers and cross-country skiers, and a the nearby Kiewa Hydroelectric Scheme.
tude of good pre-walk breakfasts, as well as series of huts slowly appeared on the moun-
ACCESS TOWN a lunch menu including sandwiches, shep- tain. Summit Hut (now destroyed) and INFORMATION
Bright herds pie and nachos. Michell Hut were built as refuges on the two On the left as you approach Mt Beauty from
%03 / pop 1900 Close to the tourist office is Tin Dog Caf most popular access routes to the mountain, Tawonga South is the Alpine Discovery Centre
Within the upper reaches of the Ovens & Pizzeria (%5755 1526; cnr Gavan & Barnard Sts; piz- and the popular Cleve Cole Hut was built (%5754 1962; www.alpinediscoverycentre.com.au; 31 Bo-
Valley, Bright is a pretty town that thrives zas $14-20, mains $18-21; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner), in memory of a pioneer skier of the region gong High Plains Rd; h9am-5pm). It is open daily
on tourism and is increasingly a centre popular with outdoor enthusiasts at any who died on the mountain (p161). and has an accommodation booking line (%1800
for adventure pursuits, including cycling, time of year, but particularly in summer. Its the views, though, not the huts that 033 079). Also on the highway, but a little
walking, skiing, rockclimbing and hang Opposite the clock tower is the Liquid provide the highlights; from the sweeping further back in Tawonga South, is a Parks
gliding. It has a wide range of facilities Am-Bar (%5755 2318; 8 Anderson St; mains $14-25; upper slopes of Mt Bogong you can see to Victoria office (%5754 4693). There are two
and services, and is an excellent spring- hdinner Thu-Tue), a restaurant-cum-bar that the horizon in some directions, while the banks in the shopping centre in Hollonds
board for bushwalking in the surrounding exudes a relaxed ambience and offers a wide nearby hills fill the scene in others. Admit- St, while the post office is located back down
mountains. variety of meals. tedly, the climb is long, gaining 1400m in the highway in Tawonga South.
 160 V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B o g o n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B o g o n g 161

00

00
Mountain Creek Camping Area

12
Mt Bogong
750
1 : 90,000 0 2 km
Beauty is the shopping centre on Hollonds

50
50m Contour Interval 0 1 mile

10
St, where youll find a supermarket and a The closest camping option to the walk is at

12
few cafs and takeaway outlets. the Mountain Creek Camping Area, right at

50
900 800 Creek
800 ntain the trailhead. There are plenty of flat camp
Mo u
To Tawonga START/
0 (10km); FINISH
700 GETTING THERE & AWAY sites, a toilet and picnic tables, all beside a

90
850
Mt Beauty

k
Camp
Mt Beauty is 365km from Melbourne via fresh mountain stream.

ree
(14km)

105
110
Rd Creek
Creek

pC

0
Gap

0
ntain 700
M ou Mountain Creek Myrtleford, and just 25km from Bright

1200
m
Ca
Camping Area
1350
1
(p158). From Albury, 95km away, drive GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK

ur
through Wodonga then head along the Mountain Creek Camping Area is 15km

1250

Sp
11
00
Kiewa Valley Hwy. from Mt Beauty. Drive north for 4km from

ale
1050

St
900

V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) operates a

ai
Mt Beauty to the small town of Tawonga.

kd
rc
Bivouac
k

train/bus combination between Melbourne Turn east, opposite the Bogong Hotel, onto

Es
850

as
ree

Hut
r
1000

pu

e
Sodawater C

0
t S 120
and Mt Beauty (adult/child $55.70/27.80, Mountain Creek Rd, which leads to the

Sp
Do Fla
VIC TORIA

950

VIC TORIA
950

orw ite

ur
ay a n ong Branch
Cr
ee Michell Gr g o 5 hours), also via Bright, on Monday and camping area.
k Hut
e kB
Castor Friday. You could also take a train to Al- If you require a ride from Mt Beauty,

re
id ge

00
Pollux ax R
Aud bury (on the VictoriaNSW border), from contact the Mt Beauty Taxi Service (%5754 4739,

wy

10
Sno

50
Memorial Cairn where you can catch a bus; Pyles Coaches 0409 573 909).

14
Summit Hut (ruin) Eskdale Point
Little
Audax
1 (%5754 4024; www.pyles.com.au) runs a service
Mt Bogong
1500 (1661m)
Side Trip Mt Bogong
(1986m) Hell
Gap
Point between Albury and Mt Beauty (adult/child THE WALK
Stirling
Gap 19
00
Rocking Stone
1400 $25/18, 1 hours) Monday to Friday. Day 1: Mountain Creek Camping Area
1350 1550
to Cleve Cole Hut via Mt Bogong
17

0
165 1500
1200

Saddle
00

West Lendenfeld
Peak
Hooker
Plateau
Alpine
National
Point
17
Tawonga Caravan Park 57 hours, 12.5km, 1400m ascent, 200m descent

0
(1945m)

160
50
Park Closer to the trailhead is Tawonga Caravan The route follows a 4WD track east into
Tadgell
Waterfall Quartz
The ur Park (% 5754 4428; www.mtbeauty.com/tawonga the forest from the camping area. Within
1050

Point
Knob The Horseyards Bosseiae ong Sp
L
Elevation Camp Hill caravanpark; Mountain Creek Rd; unpowered/powered sites 15 minutes youll come to a grassy area
e
dg

110 Valley
0
for 2 from $16/22, cabins from $46), 1km east of the and gate; it is possible to drive 2WDs to
Ri

Ca
Maddisons

m
Mt Bogong Eskdale Point
small town of Tawonga (not to be confused this point, so you could start the walk here.
rse

pC
Hut site
e

Tadgell Tadgell
z Ridg

Cleve

ree
Point Granite Flat Spur DAY 2
9Point
with Tawonga South, 4km away). The park Continue along the track, negotiating five
Ho

2200 850 00 Cole Hut

k
0

2000
k
75

ek Hut Side Trip Howmans

ong Cre provides shady sites and fronts the Kiewa creek crossings, until you reach the sixth
Cairn Cree

Bivouac Michell
Bog
1500

1800 Falls
700Hut
Quart

r
u

1600 rackGap Camp Creek

River Fire THell River, a frequent destination for anglers. crossing. Fill your water bottles here as
p

B ig Hell Gap Gap

S

0
80
y

1400 Cleve Cole Hut

95

n
0

1200
ra

ur

0 T Spur
125
G

1000 Stairecase Spur Staircase Spur k Knob

ee
Sp

800
trail (start) Bogong
Trail Creek
Cairn 1 Cr THE DEATH OF CLEVE COLE
Creek

Saddle
ck

Creek 300
th

ur

6001000 1350 135

ra

11 0
In 1937 Cleve Cole Hut was constructed on Mt Bogong at the head of Camp Valley in memory of
Ba

50 Hut
ck

400 Mountain Creek Mountain Creek

Be

T S
le

mp

Camping Area Camping Area

Cleve Cole, who died after being stranded on the mountain during a blizzard in August 1936.
125
dd

200
Ca

Mount Cleveland Cleve Cole and his companions Percy Mick Hull and Howard Michell were nearing
155

Sa

0m 105 12
145

0 Arthur 00
0km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
0
0

(1677m)
the end of a ski tour from Mt Hotham, some 50km away. While ascending Mt Bogong, they were
Bi

greeted by driving snow and thick fog. Unable to find the summit, the route to Camp Valley,
SLEEPING & EATING Kiewa Sts; meals $4-8; h6.30am-6.30pm) serves the or even the spur theyd just ascended, they dug a snow cave. For the next two days they were
Carvers Log Cabins (%5754 4863; www.netstar.com usual pastry fare such as pies, sausage held captive by the blizzard. On the fourth day, with little food remaining and with their general
.au/carvers; Buckland St; cabins from $100; a) enjoys rolls and pasties but also a selection of condition worsening and having written farewell letters to their loved ones they made a final
good views of Mt Bogong from the pleasant sandwiches, cakes and antipasti. attempt to reach the top. Astonishingly, they found the summit cairn and thought they could find
gardens and offers self-contained cabins For a more upmarket meal try Rois Diner their way to the Staircase Spur and, therefore, a relatively easy route off the mountain.
sleeping up to six people. (%5754 4495; 177 Kiewa Valley Hwy; mains $18-25; Unknowingly, they followed a course onto the southern side of the mountain instead of the
The award-winning Braeview (%5754 4756; hdinner Thu-Sun), on the uphill side of the north. They battled for hours, finally reaching Big River below the snow line, but civilization was
www.braeview.com.au; 4 Stewarts Rd; B&B s & d from $120, road in Tawonga South, which serves a va- miles away. They followed the Big River downstream for two days, unable to light a fire and sleep-
studio apt s/d $205/225, cottage s/d $270; a) has well- riety of excellent modern Italian dishes. ing inside hollow logs for shelter. A week after reaching Mt Bogong, Howard, the fittest member
equipped rooms containing TVs and bar Good for a feed after the completion of of the group, struggled on in search of help. Mick set up a rough camp and nursed Cleve, who
fridges, and desirable views of the nearby the walk is the Bogong Hotel (%5754 4482; could no longer walk and was suffering from hypothermia. Howard eventually stumbled into the
mountains (for free!). The cottage, and 169 Kiewa Valley Hwy; mains $14-17; hlunch Sun, din- small gold-mining town of Glen Valley, and a rescue party was soon on its way.
some of the B&B rooms, have spa tubs, and ner Thu-Mon), in the small town of Tawonga, Mick and Cleve were rescued ten days after their ordeal began and were carried to the village
guests are provided with a complimentary 4km north of Tawonga South. Here you of Glen Valley. Cleves condition had deteriorated to such an extent that he later died from severe
food platter on arrival. can sit and admire the peak youve just hypothermia and frostbite.
Popular with locals and tourists alike, the climbed while enjoying a traditional The solid hut, built in his honour, still stands today.
Mt Beauty Bakery & Caf (%5754 4870; Hollonds & counter meal. Just off the main road in Mt
 162 V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B o g o n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B o g o n g 163

this is the last reliable water supply until views all along this high ridge. The track
BOGONG HIGH PLAINS SHORT WALKS you reach Cleve Cole Hut. then descends into the forest before reach-
The Bogong High Plains, 32km from Mt Beauty up the Bogong High Plains Rd, is a region of Ten minutes later, the signposted track ing the grassy camping area beside Cleve Cole
high rounded peaks, broad snow plains and shallow valleys, sporadically clothed in snow gum up the Staircase Spur leaves the main track Hut, 4km and one hour from the summit.
forest; and theyre a walkers paradise. Below are a few short walks that will give you a taste of on your right. The track climbs steeply With eight beds, a sink, running water and
what the area has to offer. over the series of flat sections that give the stove, the hut is luxurious compared with
The best take-off point for walks is Falls Creek, 30km from Mt Beauty and right on the edge spur its name, until you reach Bivouac Hut at most mountain huts but is often full with
of the plains. A thriving ski resort in winter, Falls Creek is quiet outside this time. Most of the 1440m and about two hours (5.5km) from walkers.
village shuts down after the snow melts, although a handful of lodges, cafs and bars remain the start. It is possible to camp by Bivouac If the camping area is crowded, consider
open. Hut, but you will have to rely on a rainwater camping about 300m north of the hut at
All walks are covered by the Vicmap 1:50,000 topographic map Bogong Alpine Area, available tank for drinking water. The hut itself offers the Horseyards, visible across the shallow
from the Snowland Centre in Falls Creek. shelter and has a small potbelly stove, but valley. The pleasant grassy camp sites, near
there are no bunks. some old yards, can be seen from the hut,
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
Ropers Lookout Continuing, the track soon climbs steeply and water can be obtained from a small
A short walk (4km) offering a good introduction to the region, the lookout provides expansive again. About an hour from the hut, the creek 100m before reaching the camp site.
views of Falls Creek and the surrounding terrain. track unexpectedly climbs out of the forest
Starting from the eastern end of the Rocky Valley Storage dam wall, follow a track alongside and onto the windswept grassy moors of SIDE TRIP: WEST PEAK
the Rocky Valley Aqueduct north for 25 minutes to where the aqueduct ends. A track climbs the upper mountain, where you get your 1 hours, 6km return, 40m descent
straight up the hill, then loops to the south to end at the interesting basalt outcrop of Ropers first good distant views. Snow poles now ac- From Mt Bogong, a faint track leads west
Lookout (1700m). Allow 1 hours. company the route. At times, with a gentle down the broad ridge and into a shallow
breeze, these poles emit an eerie sound; in a saddle. Here the track is poorly defined,
misty storm, the noise can be quite unnerv- but walk slightly south of west to the top of
Mt Nelse ing. Further up you will pass a memorial cairn Hooker Plateau. A few old snow poles are
As one of the tallest peaks on the Bogong High Plains, Mt Nelse stands well above the tree line
marking the place where three skiers died scattered along the route. From the western
and offers unlimited views in all directions.
in a 1943 blizzard. edge of Hooker Plateau, descend west into
While not particularly short (three hours, 11km), this walk is nonetheless quite easy with
A while later you may notice the scat- a saddle and locate a foot pad which will
good tracks for most of the route. Big River Fire Track leaves the Bogong High Plains Rd 5km
tered ruins of Summit Hut. (There is a bring you to West Peak (1945m). The Kiewa
east of Falls Creek.
small semi-permanent spring a few metres River valley and ranges to the west look
Follow the track northeast to the Park (a large snow plain), then generally north to where it
above the ruins.) Another 300m brings you particularly impressive from here.
levels off west of Mt Nelse. Leave the track here and walk across the grassy plain to the summit
to a T-junction at the top of the high, tree- Return to the summit along the same
of Mt Nelse (1882m).
less ridge that forms the summit plateau route. Note that this trip is not advisable in
of Mt Bogong. At this point, marked by a foggy conditions, beacuase it is easy to be-
Wallaces & Cope Huts snow pole and signpost, turn west and fol- come disoriented on the featureless Hooker
These two huts are among the oldest and most interesting on the Bogong High Plains, and low the track for five minutes to the huge Plateau.
are the legacy of some of the regions pioneers. Wallaces Hut, originally used by cattlemen, is cairn at the summit of Mt Bogong (1986m).
classified by the National Trust, while Cope Hut is the only hut on the plains built specifically It will take you about four to five hours Day 2: Cleve Cole Hut to Mountain
for ski tourers. to cover the 8.5km from the start of the Creek Camping Area
This two-hour, 8km walk starts where a 4WD track heads east away from the Bogong High walk. 45 hours, 14km, 200m ascent, 1400m descent
Plains Rd about 10km from Falls Creek. Follow this track east for 15 minutes to Wallaces Hut, Bogong, an Aboriginal name that loosely From the hut, return along the track to-
the oldest hut on the Bogong High Plains. Continue down the main track (east) as it descends translates as big fella, befits the title of wards Mt Bogong. At Hell Gap, a track
gently to meet Langford West Aqueduct. Turn right and youll soon reach Rover Lodge, a large Victorias highest peak; after the climb up, bears north and skirts the east side of Esk-
building used by the Rover Scouts, 25 minutes from Wallaces Hut. youll understand why. Soak in the 360- dale Point to join the Eskdale Spur, 500m
Beyond Rover Lodge, the route follows the aqueduct, then veers briefly onto a foot track degree panorama, including the Snowy away. The path heads down the spine of
before joining a 4WD track that leads west to Cope Hut. Past the hut, the track soon rejoins Mountains (Australias highest mountain the narrow spur to a track junction where
the Bogong High Plains Rd, which you follow north for 800m. Take the snow pole line (and ac- range) on the northeast horizon, while en- the spur flattens out. At the edge of the
companying track) northeast, which soon brings you back to Wallaces Hut. Retrace your steps joying a well-earned rest. West Peak, the tree line, this is your last opportunity to
back to your vehicle. obvious dome seen at the western end of savour the outstanding vista. The main
the summit ridge, can be visited with an track heads left (northwest) and soon ar-
Mt Cope easy side trip (right). rives at Michell Hut rebuilt in 2004 after
The prominent rocky summit of Mt Cope provides a great vantage point from which to admire Return to the T-junction mentioned being destroyed in 2003 by bushfire
the surrounding plains and, particularly, Pretty Valley. above and follow the track east to Hell Gap. which relies on a small tank for water.
The start of this 3km track is at a signpost (Mt Cope) on the Bogong High Plains Rd, 13km The route swings slowly round to the south Beyond the hut the route descends deeper
beyond Falls Creek. This faint track heads southwest over the plains before climbing to the then gradually east again as it passes over into the forest, crossing a small stream that
boulder-covered summit of Mt Cope (1837m). Rocking Stone Saddle, Lendenfeld Point is reliable in all but the driest of times, and
and Tadgell Point; there are exceptional eventually leads to the prominent Camp
 164 V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t Fe a t h e r t o p & t h e R a z o r b a c k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com VIC TORIAN ALPS Mt Feather top & the Razorback 165

Creek Gap about 45 minutes from Michell aloof at the head of the Ovens Valley, domi- You can gather further information from bottles here as there may be no water at
Hut. Here there is a track junction; take the nating the skyline. Snaking away from Mt the Harrietville Tourism Association website the trackside springs further up the moun-
route heading west into a gully. After only Feathertop to the south is the Razorback, a (www.harrietville.com). tain. The trail narrows and begins its steady
15 minutes you reach a scrub-free 4WD high bare ridgethats been a mecca for walk- ascent. After 2km you cross a major gully
track. Providing pleasant walking through ers and skiers since the 1930s and is one of SLEEPING & EATING that, during spring, carries a good supply
pretty forest, this track in turn leads in 6km Australias most scenic ridge walks. The Harrietville Cabins & Caravan Park (%5759 of water. Continue past the signposted Pic-
to the end of the walk at the Mountain In winter, cross-country skiers and bud- 2523; [email protected]; Camping Park Rd; unpow- ture Point (although there is nothing to see
Creek Camping Area. ding mountaineers are drawn to Feather- ered/powered sites for 2 $16/20, cabins from $80), backs here) and Tobias Gap, eventually reaching
tops snowy slopes, ridges and crags. Built onto the West Branch of the Ovens River the top of the spur at Wombat Gap (two
SIDE TRIP: HOWMANS FALLS as a base for these activities, the peculiar south of the Snowline Hotel. hours and 6km from the start).
1 hour, 4km return, 150m descent MUMC Hut (p167) can easily be visited Shady Brook Cottages (%5759 2741, 0438 050 Soon after entering alpine ash forest, you
The short trip to Howmans Falls, cascad- on a short side trip. While winter sees the 475; www.shadybrook.com.au; 2 Mountain View Walk; d pass a small spring (which is generally reli-
ing 50m over a series of three smaller falls, region at its most dramatic, the slopes are from $110; a) occupies a bush setting at the able for most of the year). Thirty minutes
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
is highly recommended. From Cleve Cole prone to ice and Mt Feathertop has claimed foot of Mt Feathertop. Theres a choice of further on you pass the ruins of the Feath-
Hut follow the walking track, and snow several lives, but in summer the mountain B&B rooms or fully equipped cottages with ertop Bungalow a large structure built in
poles, east into the snow gum woodland. is generally benign and makes for a perfect spas and verandas. the 1920s for use by skiers, but destroyed
The track descends to the treeless Camp walking destination. CasBak on the Ovens Holiday Units (%5759 by wildfire in January 1939 on your left;
Valley, then heads alongside Camp Creek, 2531; www.casbakalpineunits.com.au; 206 Great Alpine then within 200m you pass a side-track to
crossing it twice before swinging round to PLANNING Rd; cabins from $95; s) is in a pretty park-like a small creek a few hundred metres away
the south. The path ends at the top of the This is a very exposed walk in sections and setting dominated by European trees. The to the east. This is the last reliable water
waterfall. Of course, exercise caution when you must have a strong weatherproof tent, salt-water pool is ideal for easing post-walk point along the main track. There are some
viewing the falls from the nearby (unpro- wet-weather gear, good sleeping bag, warm pains and strains. flat, grassy camp sites at the water-point
tected) cliffs. clothes and a fuel stove. Be aware that there Motel-style accommodation can be turn-off.
If you have allocated a third day for your are few places to collect water, apart from found at the Snowline Hotel (%5759 2524; www About 10km from the start, the track
walk, this side trip can easily be made from the sources indicated, and the water tank .snowlinehotel.com.au; Great Alpine Rd; s/d from $65/75) breaks out from the forest to arrive at Fed-
the overnight camp near Cleve Cole Hut, at Federation Hut cannot be relied upon; where you can also arrange for a cooked eration Hut, where you get your first good
combining it with the West Peak side trip so make sure you carry plenty on each day breakfast and, ahhh, a cold beer! views since starting out. There are sheltered
for a long day walk. (2L should be enough). Federation Hut also Theres not much for foodies in Har- camp sites among the trees near the hut.
has a number of sleeping benches, but its rietville. However, the Snowline Hotel (mains The summit cannot be seen from the
popular and often full so you must be pre- $14-18, pizzas $7-15; hlunch & dinner), which has hut, but a short stroll of a few minutes to
MT FEATHERTOP pared to camp. For more details on clothing a sunny balcony where you can enjoy a re- a small knoll south of the hut provides a
& THE RAZORBACK and equipment, see the boxed text p39. freshing drink and meal, is a popular place fine view. There is a rainwater tank by the
Duration 2 days after a hard walk. The general store has a hut (although during dry periods this may
Distance 36km Maps limited range of takeaway food. be empty) and a spring 30 minutes to the
Standard demanding The most useful map for this walk, with east, though this is not as reliable as the
Start/Finish Harrietville (right) an excellent level of topographic and track GETTING THERE & AWAY one near the Feathertop Bungalow ruins.
Nearest Town Harrietville (right) detail, is the Vicmap 1:50,000 topographic Harrietville is 24km south of Bright (p159) Another generally dependable water source
Transport private map Bogong Alpine Area. along the Great Alpine Rd (B500). Although is on the west side of Mt Feathertop; see the
Summary Mt Feathertop, Victorias second- there is no public transport, the Bright Taxi side trip to the MUMC Hut (p167).
highest peak, rewards walkers with a superb Permits & Regulations Service (%0408 589 370) can take passengers It is worth making the two-hour re-
all-round panorama. An unusual hut, excellent Mt Feathertop and its immediate sur- to/from Harrietville. turn trip to the summit on the first day
views along the impressive Razorback ridge rounds, including the Razorback, have been to shorten the walk on Day 2. The track
and diverse eucalyptus forest are among the declared a fuel-stove-only area. This means GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK leads northeast from the hut to a track junc-
highlights. no campfires are permitted, and you must From Harrietville, turn east onto Mt Feath- tion in a saddle just to the east of Little Mt
carry a fuel stove for cooking. ertop Rd just north of the School Bridge Feathertop. Take the left-hand track then,
(near the small general store and riverside shortly afterwards where the track forks,
Named for the appearance of lingering NEAREST TOWN park). Follow this road for 1km to where the right-hand track (the track to the left
snowdrifts in spring and often dubbed the Harrietville the bitumen ends at a small information leads to the MUMC Hut, an interesting side
Queen of the Victorian Alps, Mt Feather- %03 / population 140 board and car park. trip). A steep climb up the narrow ridge
top has attracted walkers for decades. And At the foot of Mt Feathertop is the village ends on reaching the summit of Mt Feather-
for good reason: its one of Victorias most of Harrietville. Theres not much to do, but THE WALK top (1922m) where a sweeping panorama of
attractive and impressive mountains; its its a pretty spot and makes a good base for Day 1: Harrietville to Federation Hut the surrounding peaks and valleys is stun-
cut off from the High Country to the east walks to Mt Feathertop. Some maps can be 56 hours, 13km, 1360m ascent, 210m descent ning. With steep slopes dropping away in
by the deep valley of the Kiewa River; it bought at the small general store, but you A broad track heads into the forest and most directions, youll feel as though youre
boasts commanding views; and it stands will need to buy groceries in Bright (p158). crosses a small stream. Fill your drinking on top of the world.
 166 V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t Fe a t h e r t o p & t h e R a z o r b a c k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t Fe a t h e r t o p & t h e R a z o r b a c k 167

1 : 85,000 0 2 km
Mt Feathertop & the Razorback 50m Contour Interval 0
1250 1 mile
MT FEATHERTOP UFO

95
0
No
0 0

550
80 0 Elevation
70 To Bright The first geodesic structure of its kind built in Australia, the Melbourne University Mountaineering

rt h
650 50
11

1350
(20km)

1500
we

0
Rd
n 00

95
tS Club (MUMC) Hut was constructed in the 1960s by a group of active climbers keen to create a

950
0 e Mt Feathertop
lpi 5

s
60 pu

Kiewa River
West Branch
85 The
rW 0 MUMC Hut Razorback (start)
base from which they could practise their mountaineering skills in winter. Mt Feathertop was
Great A

a lk Side Trip (Start) 13 Bon Accord

0
in g 12 0 High Spur (start)

1100
1100 00 Knob
Federation Hut
their ideal choice; its steep, snowy slopes are prone to ice (especially on the mountains steep

Tr
2000 Bon Accord

a
Wombat

ack
ck
1800 Hill
southeast face) and there is plenty of terrain to hone telemarking, snow camping, cramponing

0
Gap

90
600 1600

Bun

b
Picture
1400 Ovens River and self-arrest techniques.

h Razor
Point Big Dipper

1200
1200 Federation

Stony Cree
Hut

gal
B500 1000
800
Old Feathertop Harrietville Tragically, a car accident on the way to the mountain during construction claimed the lives of
Hut Site

ow
three club members, and memorial plaques can be seen in the hut. So prominent was the huts
550
Ovens River

600

12 1350
Nort
400
Harrietville
shiny reflection that Ovens Valley residents, convinced it was distracting to drivers at certain

95
k

14
200
Spu

50
0
1050

00
110m
50
900

times of day, insisted that the club paint it; every few years the dark green paint job is stripped
115
700

1050 0km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36
r
0
0
500

700 away by the harsh alpine weather and must be renewed.

VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
Wombat
600 Gap MUMC
Tobias Hut
School Gap
Bridge Side Trip
Harrietville North

1800
the Big Dipper. A short but steep climb
00

Picture Old
Peak SIDE TRIP: MUMC HUT
Br er
ch

Point 13
st Riv

Feathertop Mt Feathertop
2 hours, 6km return to the head of the Bon Accord Spur fol-
an

START/ 50

Sto
Hut site (1922m)
y Spring
We vens

FINISH Spring

n
Bungalow Spur C
Little Mt reek A visit to MUMC Hut (see the boxed text lows, where youll be rewarded with exten-
O

Footbridge Walking Track 1400

Av
Feathertop
750 1750 1300 above) makes for a pleasant return journey sive views and the comforting knowledge

ala
Feathertop Spring

nc
Bungalow from the camp site. Walk along the track that the remainder of the walk is mostly

he
p eek
(ruin) DAY 2 erto Cr
15 ath

Gu
Alpine Federation Hut Spring
50
Fe from Federation Hut towards Mt Feather- downhill.

lly
National
60
0
0
Park top, but then take the left-hand track where Bear west from the top of the hill and
80
the trail forks 200m northeast of the saddle follow the Bon Accord Walking Track. It
1500

pur
na S
d

anti
Great Alp i ne Roa

70
0 1450 High Diam 1550 near Little Mt Feathertop. descends gently at first but then becomes
k

Knob
ee

The path initially cuts across the steep more steep as it moves into tall alpine ash
Cr

(1801m)
nket
0 Bla
Rock
Twin
1150 western face of Mt Feathertop (crossing a forest to reach the former site of Bon Ac-
0

Garden
65

Knobs reliable spring) before joining the North- cord Hut (torched in 2003 by bushfire) on
1250
pion
Spur west Spur for the final section to the hut, a large flat area 40 minutes from the head
Cham 1350
0
0

1400
165

which stands beacon-like where the spur of the spur.

80

0 00
85 12
1000

a River
begins its headlong descent to the Ovens The first 2km beyond the hut site is an
ti n
700

Bon Accord
Diaman

Footbridge
Walking Track River valley below. easy ramble. Soon another descent begins,
The Razorback

but the track is not unduly steep, and be-

00

0
130
13

Day 2: Federation Hut to Harrietville fore long you reach the depths of the val-
nch

0
165
50

1400
89 hours, 23km, 340m ascent, 1490m descent ley at the junction of the Ovens River East
East Bra

1
17

0
0

90
0

Red
120

155

Return to the first track junction above Branch and Washington Creek, about 7km
1350

Robin
Gap
1500

Federation Hut and follow the southeast from the Razorback. The river is crossed on
s River

(1312m)
Machinery Spur

1450 Red
track as it sidles round the west side of a a footbridge, and then a track heads down-
1600

50 Robin 1
Oven

10 Bon Accord Mine

Kangaroo Creek
Hill (1310m)
B 12
hill to the join the Razorback, a high ridge stream on the western side of the river, pro-
o 50
n
A
13
50 separating the Ovens and Diamantina viding relaxed walking for a while. Not far
cc
00 95
0 o
rd Wa
shi
River valleys. You will come to yet another from the river crossing, the track improves
11 ng
junction, where a track heading east leads and follows a course just above an old aq-
1850

S ton
16

p
00

0 u Cr
75 r ee
k Mt Loch to Diamantina Spur and a very steep de- ueduct for a while. While its not always
Bon Accord 50 (1874m)
Hut site 15 scent to the Kiewa River West Branch. Take obvious, the aqueduct was constructed by
1450

1800

Derrick the right-hand track, skirting around the gold miners around the turn of the 20th
Great Alpine Road

Col
800

Big Dipper western side of High Knob, and bypassing century.

850
De

r
Rive the summit, to arrive at a magnificent rock About 4km from the river crossing the
1050

Johnsons
ad

15
1650

Hut (ruin)
1200

50
a
1100

garden thats wedged into the side of the track joins a dirt road and this is followed
t in
Ti

1700
an
m

am

Twin Knobs. During summer, this area is west for a short distance to join a minor
be

k
Swindlers Cree
Di

100
r S

0 Derricks
Hut likely to be absolutely carpeted with wild- sealed road on the fringe of Harrietville.
0
p

B al
165
ur

dy
Cre
ek flowers. Turn right, then right again after another
1250

Mt Hotham
Spargos
(1860m) 1850
Hut Beyond Twin Knobs, the track gains the 100m and follow a foot pad beside the river
ad

Diamantina Hut
ridge again and generally follows the spine for 500m to a footbridge over the Ovens
e Ro
Mt

(no camping)
16
1050

Mt Little 16 Hotham 00
Sm

of the Razorback, at times passing through River. On the far side is Mt Feathertop Rd,
13

00
Alpin

Baldy(1725m) Heights
00
yth

e 15
50
Cr
ee
155
0
Gr e a t Mount To Omeo forested glades, for another 7km to even- which will lead you back east to the begin-
1600

k To Harrietville(20km); Higginbotham (50km)

Bright (45km)
1 tually pass into a deep saddle known as ning of the walk.
11

1
 168 VICTORIAN ALPS Mt Speculation & the Crosscut Saw www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com VICTORIAN ALPS Mt Speculation & the Crosscut Saw 169

MT SPECULATION passed. There is, however, a reliable water s/d from $75/80; a) is in a handy location in GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
& THE CROSSCUT SAW source near the camp on Mt Speculation. the main street and can provide a continen- There is no public transport from Mans-
In addition, there are numerous seasonal tal breakfast. Part of the same complex is field to the trailhead, so your best option is
Duration 2 days road closures between the wetter months the Mansfield Backpackers Inn (dm $25). Theres to use a private vehicle.
Distance 31.5km of June and October, and the access road a fully equipped kitchen, barbecue, laundry From Mansfield, follow the Mt Buller Rd
Standard moderatedemanding to the trailhead is closed to traffic at Tel- and drying room available for use by motel east for 40km (past the villages of Merrijig
Start/Finish Upper Howqua ephone Box Junction (near Mt Stirling). To and inn guests. and Sawmill Settlement) to a road junction
Camping Area (opposite) check road conditions before you set forth, In a beautifully restored bank building at Mirimbah. Turn left onto the Stirling
Nearest Town Mansfield (right) contact Parks Victoria Information Centre (%13 dating from 1866 is Tavistock House (%5775 Rd and this leads, in 8km, to Telephone
Public Transport private 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au). 1024; www.tavistockhouse.com.au; cnr High & Highett Box Junction. Follow the right-hand road
Summary Climb up to the Crosscut Saw, a Sts; d from $120) where all rooms have been (Circuit Rd) from the junction for 19km
narrow ridge providing stupendous views, and Maps charmingly decked out with Victorian- (over Howqua Gap) to an intersection
spend the night at one of the best camp sites Vicmaps 1:50,000 topographic map Howitt- style furniture and decor. Its smack-bang where Bindaree Rd leaves Circuit Rd on
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
in the mountains. An ascent of Mt Howitt, and Selwyn covers the entire walk and is the best in the middle of Mansfield, and the own- the south side.
views of impressive cliffs and crags, completes choice for geographic and contour infor- ers welcome you with a bottle of vino or Bindaree Rd zigzags its way down to
a great weekend walk. mation. The Victorian Mountain Tramping bubbly. meet the Howqua River, about 10km from
Club (VMTC) 1:50,000 topographic map The Mansfield Hotel (%5775 2101; www.mans the turn-off; avoid any minor side tracks
Since the 1920s the Wonnangatta Wilder- Watersheds of the King, Howqua & Jamieson fieldhotel.com.au; 86 High St; mains $15-20; hlunch & that branch from the main road. In the val-
ness, which includes the peaks of the Mt Rivers, specially produced for bushwalkers, dinner) dates from 1862, although the fully ley, the road is blocked at the Upper How-
Howitt area near the headwaters of the makes a useful additional reference. renovated interior is definitely 21st century. qua Camping Area and vehicular access
Wonnangatta River, has been one of the The large courtyard is a pleasant place to terminates here.
most sought-after walking areas in the Vic- NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES enjoy a meal while finalising your walk
torian Alps: the spectacular summits, ridges Mansfield plans. THE WALK
and spurs in the area have drawn walkers %03 / pop 2500 The Mansfield Regional Produce Store (%5779 Day 1: Upper Howqua Camping Area to
like moths to a flame. With such evocative A popular stopping-off point for campers, 1404; 68 High St; mains $7-15; hbreakfast & lunch daily, Mt Speculation via the Crosscut Saw
names given to the geographical features of walkers and 4WD enthusiasts, Mansfield dinner Fri) sells delicious home-made foods 56 hours, 15.5km, 1310m ascent, 490m descent
the area Mts Buggery and Speculation, the is a major gateway to the Alpine National for self-caterers, including breads, condi- Follow the closed road upstream for 3.5km,
Crosscut Saw and the Terrible Hollow, to Park. On weekends, Mansfield could well ments, ice cream and crepes. If you want crossing the river a few times, to a track
name just a few you can only wonder as to be regarded as the 4WD capital of Victoria, to eat in, or just relax with a coffee, grab a junction at the foot of Howitt Spur where
their origins. In 1982 the area was given the and you might feel feeble without one! seat at the communal table. the valley really starts to feel enclosed.
protection of national park status, but log- The Mansfield visitor information centre The trendy Sweet Potato (%5775 1955; 50 There is a small camping area here.
ging of the superb mountain forests in the (%5775 1464; www.mansfield-mtbuller.com.au; Maroon- High St; mains $10-18; hlunch & dinner Thu-Mon) is Cross to the north side of the Howqua
lower areas hasnt helped the aesthetics of dah Hwy; h9am-5pm) offers an accommodation a licensed caf offering good food with a River and follow the continuation of Upper
the once pristine river valleys. Fortunately, booking service (%1800 039 049). relaxed ambience. Howqua Rd, here called Queen Spur Rd, up
many of the old logging tracks are now High St has numerous cafs, takeaway the southern slopes of Stanleys Name Spur.
being reclaimed by nature and are becom- SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT outlets and a supermarket. Theres also a The track provides easy walking as it climbs
ing increasingly overgrown, although para- The Maroondah Hwy, named High St in supermarket on Highett St. steadily for 3.5km (one hour) to a saddle on
doxically a few major tracks remain, giving town, is the main road on which you will the crest of the spur. Turn right (east) at the
relatively easy access for bushwalkers. In find an array of shops including banks, a GETTING THERE & AWAY saddle and follow an old, indistinct, 4WD
the 1980s many of the peaks in this area, chemist, a post office, food and retail shops, Mansfield is 192km northeast of Melbourne track for 200m to where a yellow marker on
including Mt Howitt, were used for horse- and Outdoor Pleasure (%5755 2826; www.outdoor along the Melba Hwy (B300) to Yea, Goul- a tree indicates the faint walking track on
riding sequences in the popular Australian pleasure.com.au; 63 High St), a gear shop selling a burn Valley Hwy and Maroondah Hwy. If your right climbing to the crest of Stanleys
films, The Man From Snowy River and The wide range of camping, fishing and other coming from the north, leave the Hume Name Spur. The track undulates until it
Man From Snowy River 2. outdoor equipment. Fwy (M31) at the Midland Hwy exit near reaches a pleasant camp site in a saddle at
This really is a beautiful region in which Benalla and travel south to Mansfield. the foot of the Crosscut Saw. There is usu-
to spend a few days or longer. As you SLEEPING & EATING V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) operates ally water in a creek 100m to the north,
walk, youll be wondering whats over the The High Country Holiday Park (%5775 2705; www a daily bus between Melbourne and Mans- except in the driest times. Ahead of you
next hill, or round the next bend, and un- .highcountryholidaypark.com.au; 1 Ultimo St; bunkhouse field (adult/child $34/17, three hours). through the trees soars the jagged form of
less fatigue gets the better of you, you may $12, unpowered/powered sites for 2 from $20/23, cabins the Crosscut Saw, a narrow ridge lined on
find it hard to stop walking. Its perhaps the from $63; s) has a wide range of facilities in- Upper Howqua Camping Area its upper slopes with layers of rock, buckled
most scenic region in the Victorian Alps. cluding a childrens pool, games room and A number of bush camp sites exist at the and folded over the ages to create the im-
tennis courts, and occupies a shady location trailhead in the upper Howqua River val- pressive outline we see today.
PLANNING a short walk from the centre of town. ley. Water is handy, and this location is Continue east very steeply up the spur;
It is essential that you carry enough drinking The Mansfield Travellers Lodge (%5775 1800; convenient if you want an early start in the there are a few rocky bluffs to negotiate
water for each day as few water points are www.mansfieldtravellodge.com; 116 High St; motel rooms morning. that require a bit of scrambling and are not
 170 V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t S p e c u l a t i o n & t h e C r o s s c u t S a w www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B u f f a l o P l a t e a u 171

1 11

1300
150 1350 11 50 1 : 110,000 0 50 1250 2 km
Day 2: Mt Speculation to the Upper

1200
1
50
River and to the slanted A-frame Vallejo

12
Mt Speculation &10001the Crosscut Saw 0 0

50
0 0 120
050 130 50m Contour Interval 1 mile
Howqua Camping Area via Mt Howitt Gantner Hut, with space for four on a sleep-

Camp Creek
Mt Despair
Elevation 56 hours, 16km, 580m ascent, 1400m descent ing platform.

1500
Catherine (1464m) 140
950
Saddle 0
Rd

Return along yesterdays route to the saddle There are three camping options in the
85
1300

Ki
Crosscut Saw (top) Crosscust Saw (top)

0
Water
Circuit

ng
Mt Speculation Mt Howitt
where Stanleys Name Spur track joins the vicinity of Macalister Springs. The most
Ri
1800
1050

DAY 2
ve

1400
r
1600 Stanleys
Name
Mt Speculation
(1668m)
1100 southern end of the Crosscut Saw. From scenic (but also most exposed) sites are on

15
Spur Upper Won the saddle (2 hours from Mt Speculation), the ridge a few hundred metres northeast of

50

1
1400 Upper Howqua na
00

1200 ng
Howqua
continue walking along the Australian Alps the spring, while more protected camp sites
1100

Camping att
Camping a
1200 Area Area
1250
1150 Walking Track. It passes through another are just above the spring and near the hut.

Ri
No Kin
1250

Queen Spur Rd

ver
Upper Howqua Road 1050 900
1000 The Pimple
g Horrible Gap saddle, then climbs onto the exposed pla-

rth
R
12 (1391m) Br iver
800m
50 an
ch
Mt Buggery
(1605m) 9 teau northeast of Mt Howitt. Here youll
0km 10 20 30
Alpine find a track junction, the left (east) track MT BUFFALO PLATEAU
1250 National The
Kin heading to Macalister Springs and Vallejo

The Crosscu
Terrible
VIC TORIA

Park Duration 56 hours

VIC TORIA
Bindaree 14 gR 0
00 iver Hollow 80
Falls 0
13
00
South Branch
00 95
0 85 Gantner Hut, which can be visited on a side Distance 16km
00 10
St a
nleys Name Spur Tr 11 trip (below). Continue southwest over the Standard easymoderate

1200
Mt Thorn a ck
(1468m) Red Rock
Saddle (1705m) plains for 1km to Mt Howitt (1738m). Here Start/Finish Camp Plain
To Mansfield S ta n l e y s N a m e S p u r youre greeted by an outstanding panorama

t S
(65km) Nearest Towns Bright (p158)
Bi n

Devils
and one of the finest viewpoints in the Vic-

aw
13
Staircase Public Transport private
dar e

1100 rRd
Queen Sp u

50
N
ver orth Branch
e
Howqu
a River Ri 15
00
Side Trip torian Alps. Summary This is a wonderful day walk, with
Rd

a
START/
wqua
Rd Howqu
FINISH Upper Ho
Howitt Spring
The route now heads west and is less short climbs to three prominent lookouts, giv-
West Peak
Spur Vallejo obvious across the summit plateau. At a
95

(1725m)
Gantner ing an excellent overview of Buffalo Plateau.
0

Upper Howqua Mt Howitt 00

Camping Area How
qua 17
00
(1738m) 14 Hut T-junction, the Australian Alps Walking Highlights include attractive snow plains, snow
River
10 South B Track heads south, but keep right and fol-
He

50 ranch gum and alpine ash forests, and some shapely

145
Big Hill
low the minor track west as it descends to
lic

1600 00
granite tors.

0
(1658m) 16 550

1550
0
op

145 1
950

a slight saddle before climbing to the head

Ho
12

River
n Alps g Track 1600
alia Walkin
wi
te

50

str
tt

of Howitt Spur at West Peak (1725m). This

r

S
Au

Cr 125

M 1 00
p

ali 0

0
Mt Magdala

r
u
ee k

ac 20

145
00 1
ste
13
r Picture (1725m) 1350
15
00 13 prominent knoll provides an excellent look- Mt Buffalo National Park, one of Australias
1500

Point Clover
1250

140
0
Hells
13

Plain
Window out from which to view the curious geology first national parks, celebrated its centenary
00

of the nearby peaks. Differential weathering in 1998. Named by early explorers Hume
for the faint-hearted. After about 1km, the Beyond Horrible Gap the track ascends and folding of sediments has produced dra- and Hovell in 1824 (see the boxed text
track cuts to the left, sidling across the steep through thick forest to more open country matic bands of rock, and these tilted sedi- p105) because of its distinctive shape when
slope, and eventually tops out in a saddle near Mt Speculation. Higher up the route mentary layers can be seen to good effect viewed from the west, Mt Buffalo has argu-
at the southern end of the Crosscut Saw. climbs a few rocky bluffs before arriving at on the escarpment running west from near ably some of the most varied and attractive
Turn north here and follow the obvious the summit of Mt Speculation (1668m) and West Peak all the way to the Bluff. scenery found anywhere in Australia.
path, the Australian Alps Walking Track, one of Victorias most spectacular camp Howitt Spur plummets from West Peak; Formed by a geological uplift of molten
for about 15 minutes as it climbs to the sites. In a region where a surplus of striking the track negotiates the very steep upper rock many millions of years ago, the pla-
highest summit of the Crosscut Saw (1705m). peaks rise above the forests, Mt Speculation section by way of a series of short scrambles teau has since been eroded heavily along a
Spread around you are a number of stun- is one of the best. The view south from and zigzags. Once down in the forest, the series of weaknesses, or faults, leaving to-
ning peaks, although your eyes will likely be the summit, particularly in autumn when route eases off considerably and becomes a days high plateau; and some of the most
drawn to the rugged outlines of the Razor fog often fills the upper Wonnangatta Val- pleasant ramble all the way to the Howqua bizarre granite rock outcrops youre ever
and the Viking to the northeast. As you ley early in the morning, is wonderful. On River (about 1 hours from West Peak). likely to see.
continue, slopes drop away steeply on both the horizon, beyond the craggy summits of Continue along the outward route of Day Historically, Mt Buffalo has been popular
sides of the Crosscut Saw, into the tall for- the Razor and Viking, you can even make 1 to the end of the walk. with nature lovers and bushwalkers since
ests of the Terrible Hollow on one side, and out Mts Bogong and Feathertop and other it was first climbed by local miners and
into craggy slopes on the other. peaks of the Bogong High Plains. SIDE TRIP: MACALISTER SPRINGS farmers in the 1850s. So popular did the
The track undulates generally northwards There are lots of flat, grassy camp sites on 1 hour, 3km return, 50m ascent, 140m descent area become that in 1910 the Victorian gov-
over many of the knolls that make up the the summit ridge; if the weather is fine its The short trip to Macalister Springs pro- ernment built the large, rambling, Chalet
teeth of the Crosscut Saw, then descends best to overnight here. Further to the east, vides a different, and intriguing, perspec- (p172), which has provided accommoda-
through a saddle before a short climb brings and about 100m below the summit, there tive of the depths of Terrible Hollow and tion for thousands of visitors over the years.
you to Mt Buggery (1605m). There are some are more excellent camp sites (still with the Crosscut Saw. From the track junction Australias first ski lift was constructed on
pretty trees on the summit, although only stunning views), which offer more shelter in 1km northeast of Mt Howitt, a well-defined the plateau in 1936, creating an all-season
restricted views. The route certainly falls adverse conditions. Water can be found at foot track heads east along a narrow ridge, resort.
away quickly from the top to Horrible Gap, the head of Camp Creek, about 1km northeast providing fine views to the north. Leav- Mt Buffalos subalpine environment has
although its not nearly as bad as the names of the summit, along a well-defined track. ing the ridge the track contours round to a diverse range of flora and fauna, and some
Buggery or Horrible would suggest. Its about a 45-minute return trip. a spring the headwater of the Macalister plants are endemic to the park, including
 172 V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B u f f a l o P l a t e a u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B u f f a l o P l a t e a u 173

the Buffalo sallee, Buffalo wattle and fern- Buffalo Rd). The camping area is 2km from Mt Buffalo Plateau 1 : 70,000
50m Contour Interval 0
0
1 mile
2 km

leaf baeckea. Many creeks drain the plateau the start of the walk near the shore of Lake 14 0 Mt
Buffalo

14
00 1250 1 eek 15 To Porepunkah Rd

50
along a series of faults, before plummeting Catani. Anderson 00
12 alo Cr (23km); Bright
50
Peak(1510m) Buff (29km) The Gap 13 13
The
off the plateaus rim in a spectacular se- 12 130 0
50 Gorge
12 50 135 Waterfall
ries of cascades and waterfalls. Best viewed Mt Buffalo Chalet 00
0
C 1
rook a m350
9
tal B

1350
from the lookouts and tracks near the Cha- Dating from 1910 is the historic and rustic 11
50
C rys p
P Parks

10
la Chalet

Mt
let (see the boxed text, p174), Crystal Brook Chalet (%03-5755 1500, 1800 037 038; www.mtbuffalo 1100 in Victoria
Office

Re
M

50
and Eurobin Creek are two of these major chalet.com.au; en suite s/d from $70/125, guestroom per

se
cL
Sa

12
rvo
eo
r

n
Waterfall

1
watercourses. person incl shared bathroom $35) where there is an

i
dy
Cr Rd

Tk
The Monolith
ee k 13
00 START/ (1419m) 50
The described walk an easy days out- array of outstandingly scenic short walks Sout
h Branch Jessies
Mt Buffalo
National
FINISH 13
Lookout The
ing for most people encompasses many at your doorstep. Inside the large complex Reservoir
Park Lake
View Lake Catani

14
Camping Ground
of the plateaus diverse variety of scenic youll find a cosy bar, a games room with

50
Devils 00 Lake

k
View Point

rac
Couch 14 Catani
highlights. a full-sized billiard table and lounges with (1370m)

Creek T
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
Og, Gog Mt Dunn 130
& Magog
open fires, still adorned with early 20th-

50
(1510m)
1200

14
Eagle F i v e A c r e e k
C re
PLANNING ain

y
Point Chalwell
century fittings. Theres a variety of deals 00 Plain in

ck
14 (1470m) rob Pl Galleries 105
0

Ro
Eu o ng
Mt Buffalo soils are extremely fragile and on offer; prices increase according to the 1300 n s Th
e L
ai
prone to erosion, so please be careful not to standard of accommodation and some 125
0
00 g P
l
Dingo
8

14 Do Dell

1300
stray off the defined tracks. Remember, too, packages include breakfast, or both break- 120
0
W
ild 14
50
Lyrebird
Hill 8

that many of the lookouts on the plateau fast and dinner, in the charming old ball- To The Horn (5km)

9
are simply large boulders often perched room. The price also includes your park
precariously above formidable drops, and entrance fee. Return to the T-junction and proceed edge at the Gorge, where it dives in a fit of
youll need to exercise extreme caution in around the flanks of Jessies Lookout. Keen windblown spray over the lip creating a fine
some instances. GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK observers may notice wombats, or even the feathery waterfall; the tallest in the park.
There is no public transport from Bright elusive lyrebird, in the forested sections of Press on up the track, soon passing the
Maps & Books to Mt Buffalo, except during the winter ski this walk. The track soon descends to the side track to Devils Couch, which can be eas-
The Vicmap 1:25,000 topographic map Eu- season. If you dont have private transport, south and arrives at another T-junction. ily climbed if desired. A little further on,
robin covers the entire walk. However, if you could take a taxi to the plateau; contact The described walk will return to this point around 10 minutes from the Crystal Brook
you are interested in walking more of the the Bright Taxi Service (%0408 589 370). later, but now follow the right-hand track crossing, is the signposted turn-off (right)
park, you will need to get the 1:25,000 map From Bright, drive to Porepunkah along as it skirts around the northern extremity of to Mt Dunn.
Buckland and possibly the Dandongadale the Great Alpine Rd, then follow the Mt Five Acre Plain attractively littered with After strolling 1km southeast along this
and Nug Nug maps as well. Buffalo Rd into Mt Buffalo National Park. boulders which you can see sporadically well-trodden path passing drifts of alpine
Once on the plateau, 25km from Porepun- through the trees. Twenty minutes walking everlastings and pink trigger plants youll
Permits & Regulations kah, keep right at an intersection (the left- will bring you to an intersection and a sign- reach a T-junction just below Mt Dunn,
Walking permits are not required, but it is hand road leads to the Chalet) and continue post indicating the way 500m southwest to barely visible through the alpine ash forest.
a good idea to book a camp site if you wish for about 500m to Reservoir Rd and the Eagle Point (two hours, 7.5km from the The track climbs to Mt Dunn (1510m); again,
to camp on the plateau at the Lake Catani start of the walk adjacent to a snow clear- start). Like many other rocky lookouts in ladders are required for the ascent. The re-
Camp Ground (below), which is usually full ing depot. the park, Eagle Point (1470m) can only be turn journey will take about 30 minutes,
during holiday periods. There is also a park ascended by climbing a series of ladders. but is well worth the effort, particularly as
entry fee of $9.70 for a day, or $15.30 for THE WALK The view south from the top includes Mts Mt Dunns central location on the plateau
two days, per car, payable at the Entrance Reservoir Rd leaves the Mt Buffalo Rd and Cobbler, Howitt, Stirling and Buller. This is ensures extensive views in all directions.
Station. crosses Camp Plain before following the also a fine place to enjoy lunch. Allow plenty of time to savour the capti-
pretty valley of Crystal Brook upstream. Return to the T-junction south of Og, vating scene from this rocky roost.
NEAREST TOWNS & FACILITIES The walking is effortless, and the track al- Gog & Magog and head along the walk- Backtrack to the T-junction east of Mt
Although the small town of Porepunkah most flat, for a little over 3km (45 minutes) ing track pointing to Rocky Creek Track. Dunn, turn right and follow the main route
is close to the base of Mt Buffalo National to an intersection. Turn right (west) and Initially you feel as if youre heading back south towards Eurobin Creek and the Long
Park, Bright (p158), only 6km further away, follow Mt McLeod Track up the slope for a towards Eagle Point but soon the track veers Plain, keeping left when passing two sign-
has a wider variety of accommodation few hundred metres to a signposted walk- southeast past the grassy head of Five Acre posted side tracks along the way. Once
choices and loads of eateries. ing track on the left, which heads toward Plain before looping around the north side on the Long Plain the track swings to the
Og, Gog & Magog. The walking track leads of a hill to meet up with Rocky Creek Track northeast and stays close to Eurobin Creek,
Lake Catani Camping Ground above a small reservoir before climbing to a on Wild Dog Plains. Turn left and follow paralleling its south bank for a little over
The most convenient place to stay near the T-junction; turn left and walk 300m to the the track north to cross the headwaters of 1km before crossing to the north bank for
trailhead for campers is on the plateau at triple rock formations of Og, Gog & Magog Crystal Brook. Here, the tiny rivulet spits and the final section of track to the Mt Buffalo
the Lake Catani Camping Ground (sites for 2 $16.50). (1490m) for fine views of the surrounding coughs its way around boulders as it flows Rd. With the end in sight, though not visu-
Bookings are essential during holiday times; terrain and many of the high peaks of the down the plain. Remarkably, just 4km down ally, a 15-minute stroll north along the road
contact the Entrance Station (%03-5756 2328; Mt Victorian Alps. the valley, this stream reaches the plateaus brings you back to Camp Plain.
 174 V I C T O R I A N A L P S M t B u f f a l o P l a t e a u www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com W I L S O N S P R O M O N T O R Y N AT I O N A L PA R K H i s t o r y 175

In 1898, 36,800 hectares were set aside as

MT BUFFALO SHORT WALKS
There is so much to see in Mt Buffalo National Park that you should try and allow a little extra
WILSONS PROMONTORY a temporary national park. This was made
permanent in 1905, though logging, graz-
time you dont need much for some of its finest sights; here are a few suggestions. Youll
need the Vicmap 1:25,000 topographic maps Buckland and Eurobin.
NATIONAL PARK ing and tin mining all continued at various
times.
Known affectionately as the Prom, 50,300-
Eurobin Falls hectare Wilsons Promontory National Park ENVIRONMENT
These two attractive falls are best seen in winter or spring or after heavy rain when theres is almost a byword for bushwalking in Vic- Around 18,000 years ago, when ocean levels
a good flow of water. toria. Hanging from the coast like an after- were far lower, the Prom was the begin-
Framed by trees, Ladies Bath Falls, just a short walk from the road, is particularly attractive, thought, its granite mountains slope away ning of a granite land bridge that connected
while Eurobin Falls are more visually spectacular as torrents of water pour over huge rock slabs into secluded, sandy bays. Once the start Tasmania to the mainland. The Prom has
in a frothy race down the mountainside. The 2km foot track starts about five minutes drive from of a land bridge to Tasmania you see the more than 700 native plant species and 33
same lichen-smeared granite through the mammal species, while 230 bird species
VIC TORIA

the Entrance Station and takes about 45 minutes return.

VIC TORIA
Furneaux Islands and the east coast of Tas- about half Victorias total breed in or
mania the Prom now forms the southern- visit the area. If you come in spring, one
Rollasons Falls most point of mainland Australia. of the great sights is from the lighthouse,
Buffalo Creek, draining the northern portion of the plateau, rushes through a narrow gorge and
Wilsons Promontory is arguably the na- with thousands of short-tailed shearwaters
has carved the twin Rollasons Falls, two separate falls just a short distance apart. On a hot day,
tional park most cherished by Victorians, (mutton birds) skimming across Bass Strait.
the pool at the base of the lower falls makes a great swimming hole.
and certainly among the most used, receiv- Commonly seen mammals include eastern
The 4km (return) foot track to Rollasons Falls starts about halfway to the plateau from the
ing around 400,000 visitors a year. Great grey kangaroos, swamp wallabies, echidnas
Entrance Station. As the trail approaches falls, the route divides: left to the upper fall and right
numbers of bushwalkers have had their in- and wombats, which are about as common
to the lower fall, and its worth visiting both. Allow 1 hours.
troduction to overnight walking here, and as campers at Tidal River. Almost deci-
the Proms universal appeal means that mated by the 19th-century sealing trade,
The Gorge it continues to attract an eclectic mix of Australian fur seals are occasionally seen
Immediately in front of the Chalet stupendous cliffs fall away towards the Ovens Valley far below. walkers the person in the tent beside you on the coast and around the cliffs below
From the western edge of the car park a 3km (return) track leads to the point where Crystal Brook is just as likely to be carrying a guitar as the lighthouse.
plummets over the rim of the Gorge. Nearby are numerous excellent lookouts that will keep you they are gaiters.
awestruck; the views of the falls and distant ranges are exceptional. All tracks are well marked Visitors to the park will find an extensive PLANNING
and easy to follow. Allow one hour. network of well-maintained walking trails. When to Walk
Walks vary from short nature trails out of It is feasible to walk at the Prom year-round,
The Monolith Tidal River to overnight rambles to more though autumn (March to May) brings the
Opposite the Parks Victoria office on Mt Buffalo Rd, near the start of the Mt Buffalo Plateau remote areas. Sections of the Prom South- most stable weather, and summer (Decem-
walk (p171), is a 2km (return) track that ascends east to the balancing tor named the Monolith ern Circuit described here are among the ber to February) the most hours of sun-
(1419m), from where a brilliant all-round panorama unfolds. parks most popular walking areas, but a shine. In January the average maximum
The trail itself is not difficult and takes about 45 minutes there and back. Although the final carefully managed permit system manages daily temperature is 20.7C, but can reach
climb to the top is up a steep stairway, the perilous-looking tor is quite easily climbed. to control any sense of crowding. In 2005 into the high 30Cs; by July it is a less ap-
a fire swept through the park, but the flora pealing 11.8C. The greatest concentration
and fauna are on the road to recovery; see of rain is from May to August. Jutting into
The Hump
the boxed text p177. Bass Strait, the Prom can experience wild
As the second-highest peak in the Park, the Hump provides a grandstand outlook over the peaks
bursts of weather, with the prevailing west-
and plains of the plateau, and also affords a close-up view of the Cathedral, probably the plateaus
most prominent granite outcrop.
HISTORY erlies dragging in storms its worth com-
The original inhabitants of the Prom area ing here just to see natures fury.
At a high saddle about 1km north of the Cresta ski field, a track heads west away from Mt
were the Aboriginal Brataualung people, The summer school holidays (from just
Buffalo Rd and climbs to another saddle between the Hump and the Cathedral. Follow this
who called it Yiruk or Woomom. It was a before Christmas until about the end of
track south from the saddle to the Hump (1695m). Allow around 45 minutes for this 1.5km
place to retreat to from attackers, though January) can make the place very crowded,
(return) walk.
they also spent part of each year here. as can Easter.
The first European to sight the Prom
The Horn was George Bass in 1798. Returning later Maps & Books
As youd expect, the views from the Horn (1723m) the highest point of Mt Buffalo are not with Matthew Flinders, Wilsons Promon- The Vicmap 1:50,000 topographic map
just impressive but also the most extensive of any seen from the plateau. tory was named after a friend of Flinders. Wilsons Promontory National Park covers
The 1.5km (return) track begins at the very end of the road across the plateau, about 3km Sealers and whalers were the first to exploit all walking tracks in the park with accuracy.
south of the Cresta ski area, where there is a fine lookout. The prominent trail (45 minutes return) its natural resources; loggers, pastoralists Wilsons Promontory: Marine and National
climbs round the western and northern edges of the Horn, getting steeper near the top, where and tin miners followed. A timber mill was Park Victoria by Geoff Westcott has de-
the path is protected by wire fences. built at Sealers Cove (of which you will only tailed notes on the history, geology, and
notice the remnants of a pier). flora and fauna of the park. Discovering the
 176 W I L S O N S P R O M O N T O R Y N AT I O N A L PA R K P r o m S o u t h e r n C i r c u i t W I L S O N S P R O M O N T O R Y N AT I O N A L PA R K P r o m S o u t h e r n C i r c u i t 177

Prom by the Victorian National Parks Asso- second night is available in cottages at the
ciation is a very useful, pocket-sized guide lighthouse, and each one has a kitchen, BLACK BEAUTY
to the many walks around the promontory. heated lounge and joy of joys a hot In late March 2005, Wilsons Promontory park rangers conducted planned burns around Tidal
A Field Guide to Wilsons Promontory by shower. Bookings are essential. River. Ten days later, on 1 April, a fire reignited, burning south to within metres of the lighthouse.
David Meagher and Michele Kohout will Before setting out, check tide times at the Around 6200 hectares, or 13% of the national park, was burned, most of it in the area of the
get you up to speed on the flora and fauna Tidal River visitor centre; they are posted walk described here.
you will be wandering past. on a noticeboard outside. While never im- It was a publicity disaster, prompting a media rant against planned burns, but when the bulk
passable, the Sealers Creek crossing can rise of the walking tracks reopened six months later, spring had well and truly sprung from the ashes.
Information Sources to a chilling waist height at high tide. Tide Grass trees were thriving and wildflowers were making their return. Eucalypts were sprouting
The park visitor centre (%1800 350 552; Tidal tables can be checked in advance at www new growth and fresh wombat scat littered the paths.
River) is 30km south of the park entrance .bom.gov.au/oceanography/tides Port The contrast that already existed between the Proms east and west coasts had become a gulf.
along the access road. Walking-permit ap- Welshpool is the closest listing. The east coast between Sealers Cove and North Waterloo Bay was untouched by fire, while the
plications and accommodation bookings If you want to visit South Point (p180), west coast particularly behind Little Oberon Bay burned so intensely it looked like a preview
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
for the lighthouse should be made here. or just fancy a more leisurely return from of the apocalypse. Other contrasts had been created anew, with slopes of burned forest ending
the lighthouse, consider extending the in gullies still thick with rainforest.
Park Fees & Regulations walk to four days, with a night camped at It is these contrasts that are the new attraction of walking at the Prom. It is worth re-visiting
Entry to the Prom costs $9.50 per vehi- Oberon Bay. this walking wonderland even if you have been here many times before.
cle, though it is free if you have booked All camp sites have toilets and drinking
your permit. Overnight walks, such as that water channelled from creeks.
described here, require a permit. This can ing in Foster at 7.15pm (the Saturday bus There is no public transport to Tidal
be obtained from the park visitor centre NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES departs Melbourne at 6.50pm, and the Sun- River, but Prom Coast Backpackers Hostel
(p175); it is recommended that you book by Foster day bus leaves from Dandenong train sta- (p176) will drop you off and pick you up
phone as camp sites on the Prom Southern %03 / pop 1000 tion at 6.40pm). The return service leaves from the Prom ($15 per passenger) with
Circuit and especially the cottage at the The former gold-mining town of Foster, Foster at 7.49am daily except Sunday; the advance arrangement.
lighthouse can fill well ahead of time, on the South Gippsland Hwy, is a conven- Sunday bus departs Foster at 3.25pm. An
particularly during summer and Easter. ient place to break the journey to the Prom extra service departs Melbourne on Friday GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
Fires are banned throughout the park, so and buy supplies. It is the kind of town de- at 6.10pm. Tickets cost $27. In the main walking season November
carry a fuel stove. pendent on its nearby national park after to Easter the road to Telegraph Saddle
the April 2005 bushfires, supermarkets Tidal River is closed and a free shuttle bus operates
recorded a 20% downturn in sales. Parks The popularity of Tidal River camping ground between the Tidal River visitors car park
PROM SOUTHERN CIRCUIT Victoria (%13 19 63; 3a Main St) has an office (% 1800 350 552; camp sites for 3 peak/off-peak and Telegraph Saddle. If walking outside
Duration 3 days in town. $20/16.50, 4-bed hut peak/off-peak $56/54, 6-bed hut this season, the road is open, and you will
Distance 57.6km Prom Central Caravan Park (%5682 2440; 38 Nel- peak/off-peak $85/81, unit peak/off-peak from $106/93, either have to slog up it, a walk of around
Difficulty moderate son St; unpowered sites $18-26, powered sites $20-30; cab- cabin peak/off-peak from $147/134) has made it a an hour, or leave a car at Telegraph Saddle
Start Telegraph Saddle ins $60-85) has free barbecues, a camp kitchen virtual metropolis of Victorian camping. and Tidal River.
Finish Tidal River (p177) and laundry facilities. Such is the demand that a ballot system
Nearest Town Foster (p176) Prom Coast Backpackers Hostel (%5682 2171; is used to allocate sites over the summer THE WALK
Transport shuttle service 40 Station St; dm/d $25/60; i) is in a converted school holidays (from about Christmas Day 1: Telegraph Saddle Car Park to
Summary Spend a night in a lighthouse cot- and homely berry-coloured cottage with until the end of January). Applications for Refuge Cove
tage and wander the beaches and regenerat- free use of bikes and the washing machine. huts and cabins during this period are ac- 45 hours, 16.5km, 280m ascent, 480m descent
ing forests of one of Victorias most popular Next door, comfortable Warrawee Holiday cepted during May, with the draw taking From the car parks eastern end, follow the
walking tracks. Apartments (r $90-110) are owned by the same place on 1 June. Applications for camp Sealers Cove sign pointing east. The sandy
family. Transport to Tidal River can also be sites are accepted through June, with a 1 track heads out through eucalyptus forest,
arranged (see p177). July draw. A minimum stay of one week is contouring gently round Mt McAllister and
This wide-reaching circuit highlights the Foodworks (Main St) and IGA (Main St) super- required at this time. There is a small shop up the southern slope of Titania Creek val-
best of the Proms east and west coasts, markets are about 50m apart. with a limited range of groceries, camping ley. As you near Windy Saddle (45 minutes
and throws in a bit of the rugged south as Dining choices are limited. The Exchange supplies and takeaway food. from the car park) you leave the burned
a bonus. You will head out through pro- Hotel (43 Main St; mains $15-27; hlunch & dinner) is area and wont see it again until Waterloo
tected coves on the east coast, and wander open every day come Tuesday for a cheap GETTING THERE & AWAY Bay. A grassy circle in thick bush, Windy
back along wild and windswept beaches. chicken schnitzel while the Foster Golf Club To drive to Tidal River from Melbourne, join Saddle once had views but they are now
In between you will see forests that have (Reserve St; hdinner) has bistro-style meals and the South Gippsland Hwy in Dandenong blocked by trees.
begun their rebirth from a major fire (see doubles as the local Chinese takeaway. and continue until the signed turn-off for From here the track continues roughly
the boxed text (opposite). V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) has a Wilsons Promontory at Meeniyan (148km). east for the next 7km, descending 300m
This walk offers the opportunity for a weekday bus service departing Melbournes Tidal River is 73km from Meeniyan via Fish through sassafras, myrtle and beech to
bit of bush luxury. Accommodation on the Southern Cross station at 4.30pm, arriv- Creek. Allow about three hours. Sealers Cove. The last 2km of the walk is
 178 W I L S O N S P R O M O N T O R Y N AT I O N A L PA R K P r o m S o u t h e r n C i r c u i t W I L S O N S P R O M O N T O R Y N AT I O N A L PA R K P r o m S o u t h e r n C i r c u i t 179

200 450 30 50 Sealers2 300 0 125000

25 0 0 500 5450

40
150

100
Creek 50 20 1 : 180,000
Back on the main path, descend to North Almost immediately the alternative route

0
Prom
50 Southern
250
350 Circuit
300
10
0 Reference Area
50m Contour Interval 0
0 4 km
2 miles
To Foster Mt Bishop Sealers Swamp Sealers Waterloo Bay through shady stringybark (p180) turns west, but the main route contin-

600
(70km); Cove
Melbourne Wilso
ns
(319m) 50
0
woodland. Walk southwest along the beach ues south along the beach for 1.7km. Near-
(220km) Pro 35
tor
mo
n
Tita
nia
Creek
0 Mt Ramsay 450
(679m) kF
i sh
Horn
and, at its end, follow the track back above ing the end of the beach, about 40 minutes
Leonard Squeaky al River y Rd START ac Smith Point the rocks. This section of track has been from Little Waterloo Bay, the track turns
Point Beach Tid Bl reek

300
Windy Saddle 356m
Leonard FINISH C Cove
Bay
Tidal Mt Oberon
Mt McAlister
(453m) W
Hobbs Head rebuilt after the April 2005 bushfires; it up through the dunes and begins the steep
Pillar Refuge
Point River (558m) Telegraph il
so now climbs up onto the hillside and soon 300m climb onto the slopes of Mt Boulder.

400
Little Saddle Cove

35
Oberon n Brown
DAY 2
through areas burned in the fires. At the top of the climb you rise onto a

0
R

0
Head
450

30
200 an
ge 0
35
400 Descend onto the beach at Little Waterloo ridge of secondary summits, following the
Cove Creek

35
55

300 0
45

40
0
200
Kersop Peak

450
Norman 0 100
Point
Little Creek Wilsons (214m) Bay and cross the tannin-stained creek. Turn ridgeline south for a short time until you

Telegr a
Oberon er
wl Promontory Mt Wilson
Bay Gro National Park (705m) North
Waterloo
up into the bush to the camp site (1 to 1 come to a lookout on a large granite boulder.
p
Deer
hours from Kersop Peak). From here the The lighthouse now looks near and North
h
T Boulder Bay

0
Oberon Flats Little

10
Growler C Saddle Cape
rack
Bay reek Waterloo
Wellington track continues behind the beach (theres Waterloo Bay pleasantly far behind. From
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Bay
Oberon
Point Fr Waterloo Bay Walking Trac
k Waterloo
Bay no access to the track from the beachs here the track swings west, cutting across
as
ers
Creek Alternative
southern end). Continue south round the the ridge and descending in indirect fashion
Mt Norgate
(419m)
Route Waterloo headland, fording Freshwater Creek as you into the adjacent valley. Cross the rainfor-
Point
Halfway
Hut Mt Boulder come out onto Waterloo Bay beach. ested creek, then ascend the adjoining spur.
25

350 (501m)
15
0

Bould 450
0
30

30
0
400
Roaring Meg Creek

WILSONS PROMONTORY DAY WALKS

er Ra
BASS 350
STRAIT 0
nge

25
200

Sea BASS As one of Victorias prime weekend getaways, Wilsons Promontory has rightly acquired a network
150

Eagle South Peak

Bay Roaring (379m) STRAIT of short tracks that could extend your stay here beyond the three days it takes you to walk the
301m Meg Southern Circuit. The following trails are all easily accessed from Tidal River. Little Oberon Bay
South East
South
West Point Side Trip
Point and Sealers Cove can also both be reached on day walks.
100

DAY 3 Lighthouse
50
Anser
South Fenwick
Island
Wattle Point Bight Mt Oberon
100 Island From Telegraph Saddle, climb west to the summit of Mt Oberon (558m), ascending about 350m.
Though it is far from the Proms highest peak it is regarded as the best viewpoint. Allow two
hours for this 6.8km return walk.
through the primordial-looking Sealers beach for 50m, turning back onto the track,
Swamp, much of it along a boardwalk. The which continues above the foreshore rocks
water in Black Fish Creek (and the drinking to the next sandy bay at Refuge Cove. The Vereker Outlook
For a view of Corner Inlet the bite in the Proms northern edge drive to the Five Mile car
water at each of the camp sites) is rust- immediate camp site is reserved for boat
park, on Five Mile Rd, and climb past a rocky outcrop to this lookout at the northern end of the
coloured from the tannin leached from the campers, so walk down onto the beach and
Vereker Range. It will take an hour to complete this one-hour, 3km return walk.
surrounding tea-trees. along to its opposite end. Take the track
Once you hit the beach at Sealers Cove, back into the bush to reach the walkers
turn right and walk 500m to the Sealers camp site on the true left bank of Cove Tongue Point
Creek outlet for your first (and deepest) Creek. This is arguably the best-set camp From Darby Saddle (on the main park road) a 5.6km trail heads through eucalypt woodland and
wade. The Sealers Cove camp site is just site at the Prom. she-oaks, and past two minor summits with good views, to near the tip of narrow Tongue Point.
beyond, 1 to two hours from Windy Allow about 1 hours. If you have two vehicles, you can leave one at the Darby River car park
Saddle. Day 2: Refuge Cove to Wilsons and walk to it from Tongue Point to vary the route.
Walk directly through the camp site and Promontory Lighthouse
onto the signposted track to Refuge Cove. 56 hours, 17.9km, 580m ascent, 530m descent Mt Bishop
Climb for 45 minutes up and around the This day begins with a good heart-starter. Begin this 5.3km, two-hour route by climbing along the easy Lilly Pilly Gully walk (which can
headland to a lookout near Horn Point with Climb around the scrubby headland over be accessed from the Tidal River camping ground), then ascend to the summit of Mt Bishop
uninterrupted views of Five Mile Beach (one slabs of exposed granite with good views (319m) for a good look across Tidal River. Return part way along the ascent trail before turning
of the destinations for the Prom Northern back to Refuge Cove, turning south for a off southwest for a shorter and steeper descent.
Circuit, p188) to the north and the Seal Is- winding ascent to the side-track (on the
lands to the east. As you round Horn Point left) to Kersop Peak (214m), 30 to 45 minutes
Picnic Bay & Whisky Bay
there is a view ahead to Refuge Cove and, from Refuge Cove. The summit (10 minutes
The small beaches of Picnic Bay and Whisky Bay, north of Tidal River, can be reached on short
immediately behind it, Kersop Peak. return) is one of the best vantage points
tracks from nearby car parks, but a more interesting approach is to begin from Squeaky Beach,
Turning southwest, the path angles along the walk, with fantastic views south
crossing Leonard Point to Picnic Bay. Continue to this beachs northern end and cross Picnic Point
around Smith Cove, cuts across the neck to Waterloo Bay, the lighthouse and sharp-
to Whisky Bay. Return along the same route; the 4km return walk will take about 1 hours.
of Hobbs Head and descends to North Ref- tipped Rodondo Island, which is actually a
uge Beach. Turn right and plough along the part of Tasmania.
 180 C R OA J I N G O L O N G N AT I O N A L PA R K www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C R OA J I N G O L O N G N AT I O N A L PA R K H i s t o r y 181

Follow it south, with a few westerly veers, glimpses west to Oberon Bay, to reach the great attraction, and on the walk described have been recorded here more even than
until finally contouring around South Peak junction with Waterloo Bay Walking Track here you will see the greater part of it. It in Kakadu. Pelicans, lyrebirds, satin bower-
to a track junction (two to three hours (about two hours from Roaring Meg). Con- is also something of a treasure chest of birds, parrots, cockatoos, oystercatchers,
from Waterloo Bay). Turn left, and its a tinue straight on for 100m, turning left onto wildlife. On one visit here we encountered sea-eagles, hawks and migrating seabirds
15-minute walk, past some wind-sculpted the marked track to Oberon Bay. fur seals, snakes, sea-eagles, wedge-tailed are all present. There are also 52 mammal
tors, to the lighthouse cottages (Sun-Fri $43-69, Sat Pass by the camp site, with its warren of eagles, bats, crabs, a ring-tailed possum, and 26 reptile species, including the giant
$71-95). The concrete path to the lighthouse sites, and out onto the beach at Oberon Bay dolphin, lace monitor, wallaby and scorpi- lace monitor, a regular sight along the walk,
is the steepest climb of the day. (45 minutes to one hour from the track onsall in one day. even on the beaches. The Skerries, a set of
The managers offer lighthouse tours (h2- junction). Turn right onto the beach, which rock islands just off the coast at Wingan
4pm) but only to guests. is 2km long and bordered by an extensive HISTORY Inlet, support a colony of Australian fur
system of sand dunes. Cross Growler Creek Aboriginal occupation at Croajingolong seals. They can often be seen in the inlet
ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: WATERLOO BAY and turn upstream for 100m to the heavily dates back more than 40,000 years, and this or even on the beach beside the inlet
WALKING TRACK eroded track entrance. Contour around to area was a favoured residence of the Krau- do not approach them. If you are lucky you
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11 hours, 4.8km Little Oberon Bay. tungulung people the name Croajingo- may see migrating whales heading up and
If you are short on time or energy you can Round the headland to Norman Point long is a corruption of their name. Evidence down the coast.
slice off the southern half of this walk by lookout (its views will be pretty much ob- of their long occupation is visible in the
turning inland at Waterloo Bay beach. literated once the bush regenerates) before many shell middens that occur at various INFORMATION
Fifty metres past Freshwater Creek, turn descending the final 1km to Norman Beach. points along the sandy coast more than When to Walk
west (right), making your way up through You can reach Tidal River on the path 60 are known to exist. Croajingolong is enjoyable at any time of
wetlands and hakea-studded heathland to through the stand of tea-trees behind, or Point Hicks, about 2km west of Thurra the year, though severe storms and strong
the large boulders on Boulder Saddle. Mt you can give your feet a final flogging on River, was the first section of eastern Aus- winds are common, so be prepared for all
Wilson (705m) rises to the north. the concrete-hard beach to arrive at the tralian spotted by James Cooks Endeavour events, even in summer. Winter can be cold
Beyond the saddle is a series of giant camping ground two to three hours from crew in 1770, and George Bass also sheltered and wet (in June the average maximum at
granite tors. The path contours beneath Oberon Bay. in Wingan Inlet for 10 days in 1797. Sealers nearby Gabo Island is 14, with more than
them and descends through banksias, tea- had arrived by 1820, and went on to all but 100mm of rain). That said, the number of
trees and gnarled she-oaks to the junction SIDE TRIP: SOUTH POINT wipe out the local Australian fur seal popu- clear sunny days on this coast varies little
with Telegraph Track, rejoining the main 2 hours, 7.4km lation (happily seals have since returned). between summer and winter.
route as it returns from the lighthouse. The walk to South Point is one for the During WWII, the area that is now Mal-
logbook: this is the southernmost point of lacoota aerodrome was a strategic defence What to Bring
Day 3: Wilsons Promontory Lighthouse mainland Australia. Take the track heading base from which Hudson bombers pa- Carry a good stock of garbage bags as your
to Tidal River south from Roaring Meg camp site and con- trolled the waters of Bass Strait looking for pack may become immersed during a river
68 hours, 23.2km, 550m ascent, 600m descent tour round the hills before descending to Japanese submarines. The threat was taken crossing, or you may even need to float it
Return to the track junction 1km from the the rocky point. Ahead is only Bass Strait so seriously that all shipping was generally across at Wingan Inlet. Weather conditions
lighthouse, turning left and beginning the if you squint you still wont be able to see routed away from the strait and round the leading to flooded rivers and heavy seas can
climb west. Within five minutes, a side Tasmania. coast of Tasmania. Japanese sub crews are mean waiting at the source of the problem
track of just a few metres leads to a lookout known to have come ashore on the remote until conditions improve, so take an extra
back to the lighthouse. Continue climbing beaches to take on water supplies. The cur- day or two of food for emergencies.
to reach Telegraph Track, a management-
vehicle road, turning right. Follow this
CROAJINGOLONG rent Old Coast Rd, now used as part of the
coast walking track, was once a military Maps & Books
zigzagging road for 600m, watching for an
unmarked foot track to the left. Take this
NATIONAL PARK supply and telegraph line, connecting an
observation post on Little Rame Head with
Vicmaps 1:50,000 topographic maps Cann-
Point Hicks and Mallacoota adequately
track, which heads directly west to Roar- Croajingolonga difficult place to spell but the operations headquarters at Mallacoota. cover the route. Walking the Wilderness
ing Meg camp site, cutting out the meanders a great place to walk. This national park is Coast by Peter Cook and Chris Dowd is
of the road, though adding in a few steep one of 12 biosphere reserves in Australia, ENVIRONMENT an excellent book, covering the coast from
pinches as you climb in and out of three and protects a magnificent stretch of rug- The vegetation in Croajingolong is ex- Lakes Entrance to Pambula (NSW) about
creeks. Roaring Meg is reached 1 to two ged Victorian coastline, extending from tremely diverse, ranging from subtropical an 18-day walk if you are keen.
hours from the lighthouse. Bemm River in the west to Cape Howe vines, ferns, mosses, native orchids and
The side trip to South Point (p180) in the east, on the NSW state border. It is stands of warm temperate forest, to banksia Permits & Regulations
leaves from the southern end of the camp a wild, 87,500-hectare tangle of swamps, forest and heathland on the coastal fringe. A strict permit system applies to overnight
site, while the main track heads off west forests and heathlands, fringed by remote, Inland there are pockets of rainforest, as walkers in Croajingolong National Park. Be-
(left) about 20m before you reach the road. windswept beaches and tidal estuaries, and well as woodlands, plains and low-lying tween Thurra River and Wingan Inlet, and
Quickly it veers north, through a sea of grass is one of the last remaining untouched bits swamps. again between Wingan Inlet and Shipwreck
trees, before rejoining Telegraph Track. of coast in southeast Australia. The bird life is the parks most evident Creek, only 25 walkers are permitted to
Telegraph Track rounds Martins Hill and Despite being coated in magnificent and prolific natural feature. More than one- camp each night. You are allowed to camp
descends past Halfway Hut camp site, with bush, it is the coast that is Croajingolongs third (or 306) of Australian bird species a maximum of two nights in one spot, and
 182 C R OA J I N G O L O N G N AT I O N A L PA R K C r o a j i n g o l o n g C o a s t W a l k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C R OA J I N G O L O N G N AT I O N A L PA R K C r o a j i n g o l o n g C o a s t W a l k 183

the number of walkers in a group is limited or Cann River as to the current water situa- The eco-friendly, creative and comfortable and pit toilets. Advance bookings are re-
to eight. tion. Be certain to treat all drinking water. Adobe Mudbrick Holiday Flats (%5159 0329; www quired over summer and Easter school
In busy times, especially over the Christ- Almost one-third of Croajingolong is des- .adobeholidayflats.com.au; 17-19 Karbeethong Ave; cabins holidays.
mas holidays and Easter, the demand for ignated as wilderness area, meaning that it $55-135) are about 5km from town, with plen- If you want something a little more
permits exceeds the allotted number, so it is is being left to return to its natural state. tiful wildlife and gorgeous inlet views. Linen seductive, you can stay in former light-
wise to book well ahead. Bookings for Easter This walk passes through some of that wil- costs extra and kayaks are available for hire. house-keeper cottages at nearby Point Hicks
open on 1 January, and for Christmas on 1 derness area, particularly across Sandpatch The early-1900s timber Karbeethong Lodge Lighthouse (%03-5158 4268; www.pointhicks.com.au;
August. At other times of the year you can Point, and by its nature it is more wild and (%5158 0411; www.karbeethonglodge.com.au; d $75-180) up to 6 people $230-300), mainland Australias
book permits up to three months ahead. tangly than most tracks you will encounter. has small bedrooms but wonderful serenity tallest lighthouse. During the summer and
Permits cost $5 per person per night. Already there are some grumbles among on the broad verandas overlooking the inlet. Easter school holidays, there is a minimum
Permit forms can be obtained from Parks walkers that the signage on this route is not Rates include continental breakfast. seven-night stay; on long weekends it is a
Victoria (%13 19 63) and should be sent to sufficient, making route-finding difficult. In There are two supermarkets on Mau- minimum of three nights. Bookings for the
the Mallacoota Parks Victoria office (fax %03- light of this, walkers should be proficient in rice Ave in the centre of town for any last- camping ground can be made through the
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VIC TORIA
5161 9540; PO Box 179, Mallacoota 3892). bush navigation. minute supplies. Croajingolong Cafe (Allan Dr; lighthouse or Parks Victoria.
While it is possible for a fit and gung-ho mains $6.50-11; hbreakfast & lunch Tue-Sun) over-
walking party to traverse this route in good looks the inlet and is a perfect place to GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
CROAJINGOLONG COAST WALK weather in as little as three long days, it is linger and settle into walking speed. Great To drive to Thurra River camp site, take
Duration 5 days worth taking the time to absorb and explore smoothies; no credit cards. Tamboon Rd south from Cann River for
Distance 59km the region at a leisurely pace. Tide Restaurant (%5158 0100; 70 Maurice Ave; 15km, turning left onto Point Hicks Rd and
Difficulty moderate mains $15-25; hdinner) has a prime lakeside following it for 25km. Point Hicks Rd may
Start Thurra River camping NEAREST TOWNS & FACILITIES location, and serves quality food and wine. be closed after heavy rain.
ground (p183) Mallacoota The sunny outdoor deck is deservedly A car shuttle from Mallacoota to Thurra
Finish Mallacoota aerodrome %03 / pop 1040 popular. River can be arranged through Tony Gray
Nearest Towns Mallacoota (opposite), Abutting the NSW border, and completely (%0408 516 482, 03-5158 0472). He charges $200
Cann River (p183) surrounded by Croajingolong, Mallacoota is GETTING THERE & AWAY for up to six people. Your car is left at the
Transport shuttle service a one-road-in, one-road-out town with great Mallacoota is 23km off the Princes Hwy. Mallacoota aerodrome.
Summary Wander the wild, rugged coast of access to remote ocean beaches, an extensive V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) services
far-eastern Victoria, across some of the most estuarine waterway system, an abundance travel to/from Melbourne ($68, eight hours) THE WALK
unspoilt beaches in the state. Sweeping de- of bird life, surf and, of course, the national on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. Be sure Day 1: Thurra River Camping Ground to
serted stretches of sand, rocky headlands, park. Mallacoota Information Shed (%5158 0800; to inform V/Line that you are going to Mal- Gale Hill Camp Site
coastal dunes and tidal inlets are all features. Main Wharf, cnr Allan & Buckland Drs) is operated lacoota, as a shuttle bus meets passengers 4 hours, 10km
by friendly volunteers, while Parks Victoria at Genoa, on the highway, for the transfer Follow the dirt road from the camping
(%5161 9500; cnr Allan & Buckland Drs) has excellent into town. ground east, take a right turn at the fork
The coast around and in Croajingolong outdoor displays and information on Croa- and head out to the beach via several other
National Park often goes under the stage jingolong. Mallacoota Bait & Tackle (%5158 0050; Cann River camp sites. Head east along the beach and
name of the Wilderness Coast, and it is by 14 Allan Dr) has some very basic camping gear. %03 / pop 250 you will soon come to the outflow of the
far the wildest, most removed bit of coast A highway crossroads, small Cann River is Thurra River. This crossing is usually a
in the state. This walk follows the coast al- SLEEPING & EATING 40km from the walk start at Thurra River. fairly straightforward wade, though heavy
most unstintingly, wandering inland only All prices here are off-peak; work some You will find basic food supplies but you rains can increase the flow considerably.
when the coast becomes impassable, and overtime if you are coming in Christmas should pick up your walking provisions Occasionally, the flow will be blocked alto-
features a variety of scenery ranging from holidays, because prices shoot up. elsewhere. The Parks Victoria (%5158 6351; gether by a sandbar.
wide, open beaches to small coves with Mallacoota Foreshore Camp Park (%5158 0300; Princes Hwy) office is the main visitor infor- Continue east along the beach for 1.5km
rocky headlands, river estuaries and coastal [email protected]; unpowered/powered sites for 2 mation centre for Croajingolong collect to the mouth of the Mueller River if you
heathlands. $14/17.50, on-site caravans $35) has hundreds of your permits here. have waded the Thurra it is almost certain
Water can be an issue on this walk, par- grassy sites extending along the foreshore, Toss a three-sided coin to choose between you will be getting wet again. Water can be
ticularly at the height of summer. High with sublime views of the lake and its resi- Cann Rivers motels. If you are weary you can found behind the dunes on the eastern side
tides can inundate the river estuaries and dent black swans and pelicans. plump for one of the two spa rooms at Cann of the inlet, 300m up from the crossing.
make their water brackish and undrinkable At Mallacoota Hotel Motel & Backpackers Valley Motel (%5158 6300; cannvalleymotel@bigpond Continue along the beach, which pro-
for many kilometres upstream. In summer, (%5158 0455; [email protected]; 51-55 Mau- .com.au; Princes Hwy; s&d $80-120). vides great swimming in summer but can
water sources can dry up, so the nightly rice Ave; dm $22, motel s/d from $55/66; as) the The courtyard at Pelican Point Coffee Lounge be exposed to strong southerly winds in
stops may need to be varied from those backpacker rooms are a bit shabby but there (Princes Hwy) is great on a sunny day. winter. Head for the visible rocky section
given here, depending on water supplies. is a good shared kitchen and it is conven- of beach, cross this and a rocky promi-
Alternative water sources are detailed in the iently located next to the pub (and you get Thurra River Camping Ground nence soon becomes visible on the beach:
walk description, and you should always use of the motel pool). Simple motel rooms At the trailhead, Thurra River camping ground here lies the entrance between the dunes to
check with park authorities in Mallacoota overlook the lawn and pool. (sites off-peak/peak $13.50/15) has running water Gale Hill. Follow this track over the dunes,
 184 C R OA J I N G O L O N G N AT I O N A L PA R K C r o a j i n g o l o n g C o a s t W a l k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com C R OA J I N G O L O N G N AT I O N A L PA R K C r o a j i n g o l o n g C o a s t W a l k 185

across a small wooden bridge and into the cliffs of Rame Head. Rock hopping round attempt this crossing at low tide (see the of Red River across the beach. About 100m
tea-tree for five minutes to the camp site. Rame Head is not recommended as large boxed text p186); the current is strong, so past the river entrance, follow the Red River
Water is available from a small soak here, waves and tides may prevent access, and be careful. If the inlet is deep in summer, Walking Track left into the dunes.
though it may dry up in hot weather. rocks may be slippery or unstable. ask around and you may be able to arrange Climb steeply up and over the first and
In about one hour, a track junction to a lift across in a boat with anglers camped second dunes, descending wooden steps to
Day 2: Gale Hill Camp Site to Ram Head (a peak not the point) is marked. here. In winter, however, the place is a lit- the Red River camp site, perched above the
Wingan Inlet A brief but quite steep walk gets you to a tle deserted, especially mid-week. If, as a beautiful estuary and nestled among tea-
4 hours, 12km lookout here, and is worth visiting. Back on last resort, you are forced to swim or wade trees and banksias. The water here is brack-
Return to the coast and continue east along the track, which is marked by red arrows as across deep water, bag up your goods inside ish. An alternative water supply is about 30
the beach, heading towards rocky Petrel it continues northeast, the forest becomes a garbage bag (dont bother with the pack minutes away along the overgrown 4WD
Point. Continue over the rocks around the more dense and is very pretty. The track itself), pop it inside your pack and watch track (turning left at a junction). If the
point, keeping slightly inland towards the then drops into attractive Fly Cove, just be- out for deep holes. weather is windy you may prefer to camp
grassy patches in bad weather. If the wind fore Wingan Inlet. A small track the Easby Track con- here than at Benedore River.
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is really strong and the sea is raging, there Head northeast along the sand and pick tinues on the other side (another camp site Follow the overgrown 4WD track, head-
is a rough track through vegetation higher up the vague track visible on the lower sec- is located here) and heads up the hill. After ing right at the junction and walking north-
up the hill. tion of sand dunes. This leads to the camp 15 minutes it drops back down to the beach. east up a hill through progressively thicker
Drop down onto the second small beach site, along a wooden boardwalk around the Head towards Easby Creek with a lot of forest and sword grass to a second track
when the end of the rocks is reached and inlet lagoon. This camp site is accessible rock hopping, passing a small soak on the junction. Take the right fork (signposted
head east, passing many small rocky out- to car campers, but there is a designated way that is a good source of water. Water Sand Patch Track) and follow it through
crops for about 3km. A high dune here camping area for wakers, along with a sup- in Easby Creek in not suitable for drinking; thick forest to where the track narrows and
comes close to the sea, and can be an ob- ply of water. there is a camp site here, however. drops to the beach. Water can be found
stacle at high tide or in rough seas. Cross Continue rock hopping along the coast near where the track exits fill up here if
the rock bar and a signpost appears marked Day 3: Wingan Inlet to Benedore River for about 4km, after which Red River is possible. Continue for 15 minutes along the
with red arrows, heading left up into the 56 hours, 15km reached. The estuary here is wide and deep, beach to Benedore River. There are camp sites
sand hills. This section of track cuts over- Wingan Inlet is one of the larger estuaries but the crossing point near the sea is usually on both sides of the inlet, but the higher,
land through melaleuca scrub to avoid the on the coast and has a fast outflow. Only an easy wade across. Walk along the mouth less swampy west side is better.
v e rar W er 0
kC

ng
100
d

Ma
R 1 : 240,000 0 8 km
Lin

Croajingolong Coast Walk (110m)

d
100

50m Contour Interval

Genoa 0
Peak(0m) 5 miles

0
35
Wing 50
To Cann 15 an 300
River (20km) 0 L in

Doubl
k Rd
ver
Mt Everard 100 100 Ri

200
(345m)

15

50
(90m)

gan
k

e Cre
ree

0
20
100

150
0 eC

Win
200

50 rp ris

ek
Su
Thurra River

Wes t

250

Betka
50 ch 200
Braneek

250
Croajingolong
National Park W in Cr 200
P

oi

River
ive

50
ga
nR
rR
nt

Hic d 100 150

eek
lle
ks

100 100 0
Rd

ue

10

250

k Cr
M

150

200

o See
150

Mall
Hard T
100 10
0
River

aco o
Thurra River
Betka Pipeline Road

Shipwr
25
Point Camping Ground

ta
Cam Rd
Hicks thouse Tk 100
h Water pC

250
Lighthouse g
15

ree
Li

START

eck
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0

Cape
Point 2 00 FINISH
Everard re Rd

C
Hicks ek tka
River usually 150 Be

0
10
150

open to 200 Mallacoota Bastion

sea wade 50 Aerodrome Point
r
Creek

Rive
Quarry Beach
DAY 2
Track
Gale Hill Secret Beach
Red

ess
Easby

Spring r
ve dern
Wingan 10 Ri Wil
Gale Hill 50 Inlet 0 re atch ne
Camp Site 100 DAY 3 e do S a n d p Zo DAY 5
n
Be
Petrel 100 Seal Creek Coast
Point 50 DAY 4 Shipwreck impassable
Cove
Wingan Seal
Point Red River Cove
The Camp Site
Ram Fly
Head Rame Cove Skerries Coast
Head Little impassable
Deep crossing Sandpatch
Point Rame
often impassable Head
 186 M O R E W A L K S Le r d e r d e r g G o r g e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O R E W A L K S G r a m p i a n s N a t i o n a l Pa r k 187

From Cumberland River in the west to to Mt William, the highest peak in the
WARNINGS Cora Lynn or Erskine Falls in the east, it is Grampians, is the classic overnight outing
High seas, high tides and stormy, southerly weather can make walking over rocky points unsafe, a simple task to piece together a walk that in the Grampians. Major Mitchell Plateau
and crossing the many inlets difficult. Fast-flowing water can sweep you off your feet, pack and incorporates up to 13 waterfalls. Two days sits below, and south of, Mt William. As-
all, and push you into the breakers. As a general rule, if you are in any doubt about the safety of is a comfortable time to see all the water- cending along Fyans Creek, you summit Mt
a crossing, wait. Wingan Inlet can be particularly deep and difficult, and should only be tackled falls, and you can base yourself in Lorne or William before descending to the plateau,
as close to low tide as possible. Check tide times at www.bom.gov.au/oceanography/tides before camp the night at a small site beside Sharps where camp is made beside First Wannon
you set out tides are listed for Eden (NSW), though Point Hicks tides are only eight minutes Rd. Plan your route by scanning Vicmaps Creek (usually a reliable water source) on
later. Check also with Parks Victoria for information on the status of crossings. 1:50,000 topographic map The Otways & the plateau. The next day, you descend to
Snakes are very common throughout the park, so care is required (particularly near scrubby Shipwreck Coast. Lorne is serviced by the Jimmy Creek picnic area a vehicle shut-
areas around water courses where they may be foraging for food). Wearing gaiters can provide daily V/Line (%13 61 96; www.vline.com.au) bus tle will be needed to get you back to Fyans
a small measure of protection. between Melbourne and Apollo Bay. Creek. The route is almost entirely covered
Paralysis ticks are extremely common in this area, and it is wise to check yourself and your by Vicmaps 1:50,000 topographic map
VIC TORIA

VIC TORIA
companions each night for these tiny, unwelcome passengers see p384 for information on GRAMPIANS NATIONAL PARK Southern Grampians, though the first cou-
removing ticks. Wonderland ple of kilometres along Fyans Creek are on
The extraordinary Wonderland Range is the Northern Grampians map.
deservedly the most popular walking area
Day 4: Benedore River to You leave the forest quickly and continue in the Grampians. The best (and longest) GREAT SOUTH WEST WALK
Shipwreck Creek through heathland, skirting the cliffs of the approach to the range winds its way past the The Great South West Walk (GSWW), in
3 hours, 10km rocky coastline, with glimpses of small coves Elephants Hide, through Grand Canyon and the southwest of the state, is one of the
Cross the inlet. It can be a little deep, but is emerging through the heath. Head along the Silent Street and up to the protruding sum- finest long-distance walking tracks in Aus-
generally easy to wade across. Pick up the track until you reach an intersection with mit of the Pinnacle. Heading back, about tralia, featuring lovely eucalyptus forests,
track beside the lagoon that heads north for Centre Track, which leads to Secret Beach; 50m below the Pinnacle a track signposted pockets of cool temperate rainforest, the
150m to the camp site on this side. An old you are now outside the national park. Turn to Halls Gap leads to the right along the cliff limestone gorge along the Glenelg River
4WD track continues inland from here and right and follow the road north as it turns top for several hundred metres, then down and the nearly unbroken 60km-long beach
over the dunes behind Little Rame Head to to bitumen. Skirt Mallacoota aerodrome to the eastern flank of the Wonderland Range. of Discovery Bay. Although long, it is a
Seal Cove (about two hours from Benedore pick up your car if it was left here during Allow about four hours for this 9.6km walk. fairly easy walk, and can be completed in 12
River). Take the side track to the small Little the car shuttle. If you came to Mallacoota Vicmaps Northern Grampians map has a to 14 days. Beginning in Portland, the trail
Ram Head peak for an interesting diversion, by bus, just keep walking along the road; the 1:25,000 inset of the Wonderland Range distance is 225km along the Discovery Bay
though the junction can be hard to see. town is about 5km ahead. that shows the tracks. Beginning in Halls beach route, or 247km by a more-popular
Seal Cove has a pretty camp site right near Gap itself, this is one of the few Grampians inland route through Mt Richmond Na-
the beach, and the swirling patterns in the walks you can access without a vehicle. tional Park. There are 16 camp sites, spaced
pyramid-shaped rock at the beachs eastern
end are worth a look. On the west side of
MORE WALKS Mt Rosea
10km to 20km apart; you also pass through
the small town of Nelson. The Great South
Seal Creek, a track heads off into the scrub, LERDERDERG GORGE Mt Rosea (1009m) is the most rewarding West Walk, a booklet of 1:100,000 maps,
continuing uphill through forest towards Across the highway from Werribee Gorge of the Grampians high peaks. Mt William provides practical information and a basic
the west, then swinging east to cross Seal (p130), Lerderderg is deeper and longer and the DAlton Peaks are slightly higher, description of each stage. Friends of the Great
Creek. Head along an old 4WD track until and offers a more committing gorge walk. but the first is reached by walking along South West Walk (www.greatsouthwestwalk.com) is a
a gate marked Walkers Only is reached; Beginning at OBriens Crossing camping a sealed road, and the second is all but good first contact for walkers. Portland has
pass through the gate and continue on the ground, the way is obvious (follow the bed inaccessible. Mt Rosea, though, is reached air and bus connections to Melbourne.
track through heathland bordered by forest. of the Lerderderg River) even if the going is along marked tracks after a climb of around
The trail crosses a section of boggy ground not; at times over the three days you will be 400m. The track begins at Rosea camping VICTORIAN ALPS
for about 30 minutes before descending bush-bashing through the vegetated river ground on Silverband Rd and ascends to- Bogong High Plains Circuit
through the trees to pretty Shipwreck Cove. bed. There are no designated camp sites but wards a stand of Grampians gums found This six-day, 85km walk covers the best of
Walk up the steps and continue 500m to the there are some beautiful small beaches on nowhere else in the world. The view from the Bogong High Plains, including pretty
camp site in the forest, just to the south of which to roll out your mat. Ending at Mac- the summit extends from the rock-climbing plains surrounded by snow gum glades and
the numbered car-camping spots. Water is kenzies Flat picnic ground, you will need icon of Mt Arapiles in the west to the Langi easily accessible peaks. Mt Beauty (p159) is
available upstream in Shipwreck Creek. to organise a car shuttle. Meridian Maps Ghiran Range near Ararat in the east. a handy base from where the walk, start-
1:35,000 topographic map Lerderderg & Allow about three hours for the 7km return ing at Bogong Village, can be accessed. The
Day 5: Shipwreck Creek to Werribee Gorges 1:35,000 covers the gorge. walk. Vicmaps 1:50,000 topographic map route climbs to Mt Fainter and beyond to
Mallacoota Aerodrome Northern Grampians covers the area. the Niggerheads, before looping over the
4 hours, 12km GREAT OCEAN ROAD plains to Mt Nelse and onto Mt Bogong
Pick up the track marked To Heath Track Lorne Waterfalls Major Mitchell Plateau (p159) via T-Spur. Crossing the mountain
200m and follow it to the Old Coast Rd Above the tourist town of Lorne a series of Along with the Mt Difficult walk (p152), to the west side, the route passes Bogong
(its been closed to vehicles for some time). waterfalls tumbles out of the Otway Range. a traverse of the Major Mitchell Plateau Creek Saddle returning to Bogong Village.
 Lonely Planet Publications
188 M O R E W A L K S W i l s o n s P r o m o n t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com

The Vicmap 1:50,000 topographic map gon, Heyfield and Licola (260km from Mel-
Bogong Alpine Area is an excellent refer- bourne). The Vicmap 1:25,000 topographic
ence. Regarded as moderate standard, this map Tali Karng and 1:50,000 topographic
is an ideal longer walk in the Bogong High map Tamboritha-Moroka show the route.
Plains area.
WILSONS PROMONTORY
The Bluff Prom Northern Circuit
This short (13km) but spectacular day walk Infinitely less crowded than the Prom
traverses a panoramic craggy ridge high Southern Circuit, the circular, 57km walk-
above the Howqua River. You will need a ing track near the promontorys north-
good map (see p168) to guide you to the eastern tip crosses swampland to remote
start at the northern base of the Bluff, 60km Five Mile, Three Mile and Chinaman Long
southeast of Mansfield (p168), the nearest Beaches. There are five camp sites en route,
VIC TORIA

town. Drive towards Mt Buller, turn onto though the most likely itinerary is a three-
Howqua Track, then follow Brocks Rd day walk, camping at Five Mile Beach (or
and Bluff Link Rd to reach the Bluff car Johnny Souey Cove) and Tin Mine Cove.
park. For the walk you need the Vicmap The track from Tin Mine Cove back to the
1:50,000 topographic map Howitt-Selwyn trailhead at Five Mile Rd car park is over-
and 1:25,000 topographic map Buller South. grown with prickly heath, poorly defined
The route is steep for 1km, climbing up and with potentially deep creek crossings,
through broken crags which require a bit making this a route for experienced walkers
of scrambling. Once on the Bluff, the path only. A self-assessment form confirming
is easily followed over Mt Eadley Stoney your proficiency in such skills as compass
before reaching Bluff Hut. You can either use and navigation must be completed
retrace your steps, or circuit back to the before you walk. Vicmaps 1:50,000 topo-
starting point along Sixteen Mile and Bluff graphic map Wilsons Promontory National
Link Rds. Park shows the route.

Lake Tali Karng MITCHELL RIVER NATIONAL PARK

Formed by a massive landslide a few thou- The Mitchell River is well known among
sand years ago, Lake Tali Karng has the white-water paddlers but less so among
appeal of a mountain oasis hidden deep bushwalkers, which means you will see few
within a narrow valley; it is an inviting people as you wander the 18km stretch of
and special place. Starting on the plains at its banks through this national park north
McFarlane Saddle, 61km northeast of of Bairnsdale. Beginning at Angusvale, the
Licola, this moderate-grade two-day walk trail heads through the spectacular cliffs of
traverses the open Wellington Plains, pass- the Amphitheatre to the Den of Nargun
ing Mt Wellington itself, before descending and Deadcock Den, gorges rich in scenery
Riggalls Spur. Camp is made by the lake. and Aboriginal legend. There is camping
Climb up the steep Gillios Track, and across at Angusvale, or other accommodation in
the rocky Spion Kopje, to return to the car Bairnsdale. Carry Vicmaps 1:50,000 topo-
park. The walk is accessed through Traral- graphic map Cobbannah-Tabberrabberra.

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