136 * Patterns How to spread a pattern to increase size + Cut pattern pigce along alteration line + Secure cut edge of main section to a piece of tis- sue paper (3). With pencil and ruler, extend all straight lines across tissue (grain line, center line, center of dart. ‘© Measure on tissue amount to be added. To mark amount, draw a line either parallel with cut edge or fon a slant (II, next page), as necessary. + Secure remaining pattern section to tissue, with ‘cut edge on marked line (4), matching at vertical lines drawn in. + Redraw all lines to connect smoothly and main- tain pattern shape. IP inset tapers, this means that, on the smaller pattern section, lines must be redrawn as ‘continuation of the orginal line, before section was cut off, and that side edges will be trimmed on one side and added to on the other (II, next page). How (0 make a new cutting line after dart alteration If a dart coming from a scam has been altered in size or direction, cuting line must be redrawn. Pin altered dart together (5) and fold (down at side, toward center at waist). Redraw and cut cuting line across fold (S), with ruler for a straight seam, Tree- hhand for a curved seam (waistline). Remove pins (6).SHORTENING AND LENGTHENING Bodice (Measurements 4and5) If there is no printed altera- tion line, draw one 2” to 3” ‘above waistline, at right angles to center front and/or back 8). Nore: When making an al- teration in length on bodice front, take into account any alteration needed in Mea surement 6, ‘An alteration line placed above the bust dart will take care of at least part of the alteration in length (all of it, if alterations needed for Mea- surement 5 and Measurement 6 are the same). See Method II under Bust Darts, on p. 139. Follow How-To instructions on pp. 135-136. Matching seamlines will automatically ‘continue to match if altera- tion is the same for Measure- ment 4 and Measurement 5 (back and front), and fold or spread will go straight across back and front. If, however, the alteration is made only on front or only ‘on back, or in both but in dif- ferent amounts, the fold ot the tissuc inset, as the case ‘may be, must taper or widen at the seams (9-10, 11-12), ‘depending on which is needed, if you are to keep seam edges matching. Follow How-To's for straight- ening lines. Patterns + 1374138 + Patterns ‘Skirt (Measurement 11) A skirt is shortened or lengthened at hem- line (13). If there is kick pleat, however, draw an alteration line above kick pleat as shown (14), and follow How-To instructions on pp. 135-136. ‘Sleeve (Measurement 8) ‘On a long sleeve, if there are no printed alteration lines, draw lines about 5” below tinderarm and $” above bottom edge, as shown (15), ‘Nore: See Sleeve Darts on p. 140, and check Mea- surement 9. Any alteration in placement of sleeve darts may be taken care of while altering length of sleeve, Using one or both alteration lines, as necessary, fol- low the How-To instructions which you will ind on pp. 135-136, On a straight, short sleeve, make alteration at the bottom edge.LOWERING AND RAISING DARTS Darts correctly placed are essential to the ft of @ ‘garment. Bust Darts (Measurement 6) For a smooth it, underarm dart should point di- rectly toward point of bust. Moving an underarm Gart is « simple alteration which can be done by titer of the two methods that follow if bodice length needs no change; or by Method IT if it is done in combination with an alteration in bodice length Merion 1. If dart is horizontal (16), point can be raised as much as 1”, but eannot be lowered; if dart is slanted upward (17), it can be lowered 1" but ‘can't be raised, Mark new point of dart; using ruler, connect point with the two base points at seamline, fas shown, Correct cutting line as directed in last How-To on p. 136, Raise or lower point of waist dart Gf any) the same amount. Metiopt May be used in combination with shorten ing or lengthening bodice front (sce that heading), in which case the lower alteration line would be tither omitted or the amount taken out or added ‘would be changed as needed. As described here, the ‘method preserves original bodice length. Patterns * 139 + Draw two alteration lines: one 2” to 3” above ‘waistline, the other above bust dart—both at right fangles to center front. See How-To instructions on pp. 135-136, "Po lover dart, cut pater on upper alteration ne ‘send aan ede: pater over ‘eption inking nthe sae amount (18,140 + Patterns ‘To raise dart, fold pattern on upper alteration Tine, taking in amount needed; cut on lower alteration fine and spread to the same amount (19). + On waist dart, if any, draw new lines from point ‘to two base points. ‘Sleeve Darts (Measurement 9) See Shortening and Lengthening Sleeve (Mcasure- ment 8). Middle dart, or mid-point between notches, Should be directly at bend of elbow (Measurement 9), REDUCING and INCREASING WIDTH Hip (Measurement 3) ‘A hip alteration must be carried all the way to the hem. ~ For an alteration of 2" or less ‘Ad or take off at side seams. One-fourth the amount of alteration (14” for 2”) added to or taken off each ‘edge will add up to total, Measure down from waist- Tine to point of hip measurement. Mark alteration at that point; then, using yardstick, zedraw line down to hem, parallel to old line. Above altered point, (draw a line tapering to waistline, as shown (20). For an increase of more than 2”: ‘Add 2” as above, Then, with yardstick, draw an flteration line through dart to hem, on back and front sections (if there are two darts, go through dart nearest side seam), Spread each piece one-fourth the total amount needed. Adjust waistine by taking deeper darts Waist (Measurement 2) ‘A waist alteration must be made on both bodice and skirt |. For an alteration of 2” or less ‘Add or take off at side seams. One-fourth the amount (H" for 2°) added to or taken off each edge will fadd up to total, Then draw new cutting lines: on ‘Skint, taper to join existing cutting line at hip; on bodice, pin up bust darts, if any, and use ruler to draw new cutting line from underarm to waist, For an alteration of more than 2”: ‘Alter side seams as above to take out or add 2”. Divide remaining amount by number of waist darts ‘Then draw new stitching lines for darts: inside ex- {sting dart for an increase in size (21), outside exist- ing dart (22) for a decrease (a change of "at each Ww added to each dart—will make ‘on a garment with 4 darts).Patterns + 141 Bust (Measurements 1 and 7) ‘A bust alteration is generally divided equally be- ‘ween front and back of bodice. If you are either full: busted or flat-chested, alteration may need to be ‘made entirely on the front. If your back is very broad fr very narrow (Measurement 7), it may need to be ‘made entirely on the back. Or it may be divided ‘unequally between front and back. Nore for both Front and Back: After completing alteration below... + Restore original waist measurement by measuring the amount that pattern has been overlapped oF spread at waistline level: then add or trim away an ‘equal amount at side seam and draw new cutting Tine with ruler. + Redraw waistline to conform with original line, shortening pattern when there was a decrease in ‘width, lengthening for an increase. Front-Using ruler, draw lines as shown (23) . from point of waistline dart (a, to from point of underarm dart [b, then to armhole seamline near roth [e}. through center of underarm dav, if not printed fon pattern (d-e), Cut up along outer line of waistline dart (nearer side seam) and along drawn line to points a-bic. Do not ‘cut beyond armhole seanuline.142 + Patterns To reduce size, measure one half of total front ‘iteration out from cut, just above point 6; lap edge with waistline dart on it over as far as mark, Smooth out pattern carefully, and secure overlap at this point. Cut through center of underarm dart (d-). Shift bottom section of pattern so that bust dart and waist are altered about the same amount, Secure overlaps (24), Restore original waist measurement fand waistline. Waistline dart remains original size while bust dart is decreased. To increase size slip tissue paper under pattern. ‘Spread out cut, measuring on tissue, just above point ‘bone half the total alteration for front. Secure cut edges to tissue at this point. Cut through center of ‘underarm dart (d-e) Shift bottom section of pattern 50 that bust dart and waist are altered about the Same amount (25). Secure all cut edges to tissue. Restore original waist measurement and waistline. Waistline dart remains original size while bust dart is increased. Back—Using ruler, draw a line from point of dart to center of shoulder (26). Cut up along outer line of waistline dart (nearer side seam) and along drawn line to shoulder seamline, Make sure that you do rot cut beyond seamline. ‘Amount of alteration is measured at a level 1” below top of underarm seam.