4pt, 10pt System
4pt, 10pt System
1.0 PURPOSE
This procedure describes the processes involved in the inspection of Textile Fabrics.
Responsibility: All management, administrative, and technical staff involved in the inspection of consumer products are
responsible for understanding and implementing these procedures.
3.0 REFERENCES
SOP GP005 Basic Workflow for Inspection of Consumer Products
SOP GP010 Inspection Materials
SOP GP014 Inspection Report Preparation
SOP SD034 Inspection Report - Fabric
4.0 TERMINOLOGY
IR Inspection Report
COP Client Operating Procedure
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 2 of 12
5.0 PROCEDURE
Note: It is the responsibility of all parties involved (SO, HO, OO) to review the COP for each inspection order to
determine where special requirements exist. Client specific or product specific inspection criteria that are stated in
a COP, Product Specification and/or Inspection Protocol for the inspection in concern will always REPLACE the
BV Standard Inspection Criteria that appears in a General SOP.
Note: The terms roll and piece are used interchangeably throughout this document.
When Lot size < 10,000 yards: Sample Size = 1,000 yards
When Lot size < 1,000 yards: Sample Size = Lot Size
Example: Total yardage in an order is 12,000 yards.
Sample Size = (Square Root of 7500 12000yards) x 10 = 1095 yards
5.1.3.2 In place of the Sample Size calculation above, certain clients may request that a specific percentage of
the total fabric is inspected (5%, 10%, 20%, etc.)
5.1.4 Roll Selection / Piece Selection = The number of rolls or pieces from where the Sample Size is selected.
5.1.4.1 The required Sample Size will be selected at random from the rolls present in the shipment. The entire
length of each roll or piece selected will be inspected until the required Sample Size is completed.
5.1.4.2 A minimum of 1 roll per color should be selected.
5.1.4.3 Sample Size and Roll Selection for shipments containing more than 1 style and/or color of fabric should
be discussed and agreed with client.
If rolls are in cartons, performed the same as Final Random Inspection - Section 5.1 of SOP GP011.
Performed the same as Final Random Inspection - Section 5.2 of SOP GP011.
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 3 of 12
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 4 of 12
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 5 of 12
5.8.3 Unless otherwise agreed upon by buyer and seller, fabric is to be examined for defects only on the face side.
5.8.4 All holes are scored 4 points regardless of size.
5.8.5 No single yard shall be penalized more than 4 points.
5.8.6 5.8.1.3.4 Any defect of a continuous nature such as dye streaks, barre', needle lines, etc. is penalized four (4)
points for each linear yard. If the defects running continuously for more than 10 yards, the roll will be considered
as rejected.
5.8.7 Defects appearing within 1 inch / 2.5 cm of either edge (overall width) shall be disregarded.
5.8.8 Color shading within a dye lot may not vary within a roll/piece or between rolls/pieces. The shade must match
the approved sample standard (swatch card).
5.8.9 Roll to roll and lot to lot shading must be no less than 4, on the AATCC Gray Scale.
5.8.10 Full width ( 6 10 wide ) shade bands will be taken from each roll during the fabric inspection process. The
inspector will use these bands to compare shading within a roll and roll to roll.
5.8.11 Primary light source for color shade checking is D65, and secondary light sources are TL84 /CWF & F / INCA.
5.8.12 Every selected roll will be cut 6 x full width both at the beginning and end for color verification.
5.8.13 Every color and dyelot will be collected in A4 size x 2 sets as shipment samples. (1 set for client, 1 set for office).
Upon client specific request, full width (10 x full width) samples may be collected and send for client reference.
5.8.14 Rolls with side to side, side center side, or end to end shading, must be no less than 4-5 Gray Scale rating
according to the AATCC Gray Scale. Four points shall be assigned to each yard of the inspected roll that
contains this type of shading defect.
5.8.15 If the shade of greige fabric being inspected does not match the provided approval sample, must be no less
than 4-5 Gray Scale rating, the shipment will fail the inspection. No penalty points will be assigned to the rolls for
the off shade condition. The inspection of greige fabric will continue, all rolls will be graded accordingly.
5.8.16 If the shade of finished fabric being inspected does not match the provided approval sample, must be no less
than 4-5 Gray Scale rating, the shipment will fail the inspection. No penalty points will be assigned to the rolls for
the off shade condition. The inspection of finished fabric will continue, all rolls will be graded accordingly.
5.8.17 Any roll having shade discrepancy below specified standard shall be graded as B, but penalty points must also
be count for weaving or knitting defects found in roll.
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 6 of 12
5.8.18 Irregularities normal to the existing state of the art or beyond reasonable control of the manufacturer or inherent
in any specified type of construction shall not be classified as defects and shall not be assigned any penalty
points.
PlainJersey/Interlock/Lacoste/Rib
4 Basic Knit Fabric (Carded Cotton) 40 points / 100 sq.yds. 32 points / 100 sq.yds.
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 8 of 12
10 inches < Defect < 36 inches 10 points Half width < Defect < Full Width 10 points
5 inches < Defect <10 inches 5 points 5 inches < Defect < Half Width 5 points
1 inch < Defect < 5 inches 3 points 1inch < Defect < 5 inches 3 points
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 9 of 12
5.9.3.4 Bowing
For both woven & knit fabric, no rolls shall be accepted as first quality that exhibit bow or bias or
more than 2% for print or check fabric & 3% for solid fabric. A bow is an uneven deviation of a
weft or course line from a line drawn perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric. A bow can have
many different forms. Therefore each section of a bow must be calculated individually.
Single Bow (over whole width of fabric):
Calculation: % Bow = Maximum deviation from perpendicular line x 100
width of fabric
Each bow is calculated individually. The larger variation of the two is counted.
5.9.3.5 Skewing
For woven fabric, no rolls shall be accepted as first quality that exhibit skewing more than 2% for
print or check fabric & 3% for solid fabric.
The skew is straight line variation of a weft or course line from a line drawn perpendicular to the
selvedge of the fabric.
Calculation: % Skew = Maximum deviation from perpendicular x 100
Width of fabric
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 11 of 12
DEFECT DESCRIPTION
Abrasion Mark Area damaged by friction.
Band, stripe, streak, or bar characterized by a visible difference in texture, color, or luster of
Barre' adjoining picks. A repetitive and patterned unevenness of appearance in the course or widthwise
direction of a fabric.
Wovens: Filling yarns are not square to the warp ends.
Bias (or Skewness)
Knits: Courses are not square to the wales.
Wovens: Filling yarns lie in an arc across the width of the fabric.
Bow
Knits: Courses lie in an arc across the width of the fabric.
Broken End Wovens: Space in warp direction due to broken yarn.
Broken Pick Wovens: Space in filling direction due to broken yarn.
Bruise Area damaged by impact or pressure.
Burl Mark Mark left by removal of slub or extra piece of yarn that has been woven into a fabric.
Crease Mark Visible streak in fabric caused by folding.
Cut Selvage Cuts or breaks in the selvage area only.
Draw-back Excess tight and slack areas in the same warp yarn.
Dropped Stitch Knits: Unkitted stitch.
Dye Streak Irregular streak caused by uneven dye absorption.
End Out Thin line or space caused by missing warp yarn.
Fly Waste fibers or fuzz unintentionally woven into a fabric.
Misprint Colors and/or patterns in printed fabrics that are incorrectly positioned ("Out of Register")
Mixed End Wovens: Warp yarn different in color, size, or type than the rest of the fabric.
Mixed Filling Wovens: Filling yarn different in color, size, or type than the rest of the fabric.
Pin Hole Very small hole.
Pin Mark Series of pin holes along the selvage caused by a holding device.
Reed Mark Crack between groups of warp ends.
Run Series of dropped stitches.
Seam Mark Mark or crease caused by sewn seam pressing against adjacent fabric.
Selvage Mark Lengthwise crease near selvage caused by folding or doubling of fabric edge.
Wovens: Filling yarns are not square to the warp ends.
Skewness (or Bias)
Knits: Courses are not square to the wales
Slub Abruptly thickened place in a yarn.
Snag Yarn or piece of yarn pulled from the surface of a fabric.
Small discoloration on surface of a fabric. Can be caused by dying, foreign matter (dirt, oil, water)
Spot
etc.
Stain Discoloration that penetrates the surface of a fabric.
Streak Extended narrow stripe, often a single yarn.
Small area of closely spaced and/or thicker diameter yarns when compared to the average
Thick Place
construction of the fabric.
Small area of loosely spaced and/or thinner diameter yarns when compared to the average
Thin Place
construction of the fabric.
Warp Streak Narrow band or stripe running lengthwise.
Wrinkle A short and irregular crease.
5.12 Reporting
5.12.1 Utilize the IR format of SOP SD034.
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc
BV CPS-I STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES
Title: FABRIC INSPECTION (INTERNAL USE ONLY)
Date Revised:
SOP No: PS002 Revision No: 51 Date Created: 08APR04
19NOV10MAY04
Prepared by: Dave Downie Approved by: CPS-I Committee Page 12 of 12
"BUREAU VERITAS PROPRIETARY- copyright Bureau Veritas [2004] - DO NOT DISCLOSE OUTSIDE YOUR ORGANISATION WITHOUT
BUREAU VERITAS PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT".
351524650.doc