Shoe Construction and

Modification

Shoe Construction and Modification

Shoe anatomy
Shoe construction
Shoe component
design properties
Shoe modification
Effects of
modifications.

Shoe Construction Types

Although there are many
different shoe construction
types we are going to
examine the five most
common types used today
We will also identify all the
shoe upper components

1
 Construction Types

Cement Process
Goodyear Welt
Stitch-down Process
Genuine Moccasin
Heat-Sealing Process

The Last comes First!

The fit of a shoe depends

on the design, shape and
volume of the Shoe Last.
The shoe last must
represent the anatomical
information of the foot, at
the same time giving the
finished shoe a pleasing
and fashionable
appearance.

Shoe Style

Each "shoe last " is

designed for a
particular heel height,
toe shape, and type of
footwear.

2
 Types of Lasts

Manufactured Lasts can be

made of wood or plastic.
Custom made lasts are
most commonly made of
plaster.

Cement Process

Most simple type.

The sole is bonded or
cemented on.
Easy and Economical
Common in inexpensive Cement Process
shoes

Goodyear Welt

This construction type is

more complicated.
What is the welt? The welt
is a narrow strip of leather
sewn to the insole and
holds it all together.
Acts as a gasket between
the upper and sole

3
 The Welting Process
The welt is attached by
sewing through the welt,
vamp, vamp lining to the
insole. So when the four
layers are sewn together it
creates the inseam
It is called the inseam
because when the outsole
is attached you can no
longer see it.

Types of Welting
There are several types of
welt as shown here. The
Ridge welt is sometimes
called a Storm welt or
Goodyear welt. It is
designed to make a shoe
more water resistant.

Attaching the Outsole

Notice here the two seams; the

chain stitch inseam we looked
at before and now the
Lockstitch outseam is
attaching the outsole by
sewing through the extended
welt
This is normally achieved with
a Curved Needle Stitcher

4
 Welted Shoe Bottoms

Once the welt is attached a

filler material is put in place
to fill the void created by
the welt. It will also serve to
make the shoe more
comfortable by providing
some cushion and
insulation.
Filler is often made of cork
or a foam material.

Welted Shoe Bottoms

A shank or shankpiece is
utilized to reinforce the
Shank
bridge from the shoes heel
to the ball of the foot. It is
not there to be an arch
support but rather it is a
technical part of the shoes
construction. Shankpiece

Stitchdown Process

The Stitchdown is the only

construction type where
the uppers turn out instead
of under the shoe.
The uppers are turned out
and are sewn down to the
midsole.
This is not a true welt on
this shoe

5
 Single Sole Stitchdown
This childs shoe has the
upper turned out and sewn
directly to the outsole.
There is no midsole making
this a single sole
stitchdown

Two sole Stitchdown

In this shoe the uppers are

turned out and sewn to the
midsole then the outsole is
bonded on concealing and
protecting the stitching.

Genuine Moccasin Construction

A genuine Moccasin simply

means the vamp creates
the insole.
The vamp wraps under the
foot creating the insole with
no other insole needed.

6
 Moccasin Style
Not all genuine moccasins are
made the same. This shoe is a
true moccasin.
The vamp creates the insole is
the deciding factor. This style
is also called a McKay.

Heat-Sealing Process
There are several ways of
making this construction
type. Many of the
Orthopedic shoes are made
this way for comfort, light
weight and cost effective.
Soling materials will
include polyurethane,
thermo plastic rubber, PVC
and Latex.

Injection Molded & Vulcanized

Each of these types are
heat molded to the uppers.

7
 Orthopedic Footwear

Each of these shoes are of

a Heat Sealing Process

Shoe Uppers
The uppers are only the
parts you see, not internal Vamp
parts. They are not present Quarter
on all shoes, various styles Heel
use different upper parts as Foxing
you will see Toe Cap
Saddle
Backstay
Tongue
Vamp Plug

Vamp

The front part of the shoe. Vamp

All closed toe shoes have a
vamp

8
 Quarter

The back part of a shoe or Quarters

boot

Heel Foxing
Foxing goes over the
quarter and can be
decorative or plain
Sometimes it will have
perforations or a different
colors creating a two tone
shoe

Foxing
The foxing can be over the
quarters or the quarters
can be cut away and the
foxing in its place.

9
 Toe Caps
A toe cap is to the toe what
foxing is to the quarter.
It can be plain or
decorative.
Toe caps normally go over
the vamp but the vamp can
be cut away and the toe cap
in place of it.

Toe Caps

The most well known toe

cap would be the wing tip.
In a true wing tip the toe
cap goes all the way back
to the quarters

Toe Caps

This would also be called a

wing tip

This would be a straight tip

10
 Saddles
A piece of leather that goes
over the instep
A saddle can be the same
color as the shoe but it is
normally a contrasting
color

Backstay

A narrow strip of leather

that covers the seam where
the quarters come together

Conventional
Backstay

Backstay

This backstay is
decorative. More commonly
they are a straight strip of
leather.

11
 Tongues
There are several types of
tongues to explore

Tongues
The dress tongue is most
common.
The apron tongue is often
called a Kiltie. Kilties were
popular on golf shoes to
keep the grass out of the
shoe.
Today Kilties are more
commonly used as
decoration.

Bellows Tongue
The Bellows tongue is
required in some trades as
a safety tongue.
It is stitched up the sides of
the tongue so objects such
as metal shavings can not
get inside the boot.

12
 Vamp Plugs
A piece of leather sewn into
the top of a vamp.
A vamp plug is often used
on moccasin style shoes.

Other Shoe parts and Terms

What makes a shoe a Depth
Shoe?
The shoe must have at
least 3/16 removable inlay.
Some shoes today have
removable inlay or have
two removable layers.

Removable Inlay

Internal Stiffeners
The Counter is the stiffener
in the heel area to provide
grip for the heel and to
retain the shape of the shoe

The Toe Box is the stiffener

in the toe of the shoe. It
retains the shape and
provides protection for the
toes.

13
 Oblique Toe
Anatomically shaped toe
style.
Oblique toes are often used
to provide more room for
the forefoot and
accommodate toe
deformities.

Heels

Heels come on all different

styles and sizes
The breast of the heel is the
front area
The toplift is the part that
hits the ground

Heel Pitch
Heel pitch is the vertical
line of the heel.
Correct pitch is vital for the
shoe to tread or walk
correctly.

14
 Topline / Outsole

Notice the Topline in this

illustration.
The sole that hits the
ground is the Outsole.

Midsoles

Midsoles are in between the

insole and the outsole.
Midsoles are common in
wingtip shoes, work boots
and athletic shoes.

Insole Verses Inlay

The insole is a technical
part of the shoes
construction. It is glued,
stapled or sewn into place.
The Inlay goes on top of the
insole and is removable.

15
 Heel Pads / Sock Linings
Some shoes especially if
they have a nailed on heel
will have a heel pad glued
on top of the insole to
protect the foot from the
nails.
If it is full length it is then
called a sock lining.

Balmoral

The Bal as it is sometimes

referred to is when the
vamp over laps the
quarters.
This produces a smaller Balmoral
opening for donning and
doffing.

Blucher

Blucher

In Blucher the quarters

overlap the vamp creating a
wide opening shoe.
Often prescribed for
patients with limited
Balmoral
dorsiflexion and limited
foot flexibility

Blucher

16
 Shoe Modifications
Basic rocker sole
Stabilizers, Flairs &
Wedges
Elevations & Lifts

Basic Rocker Soles

Forefoot Rocker
Mild Rocker
Heel to Toe Rocker
Negative Heel Rocker
Severe Angle Rocker
Double Rocker
Rocker Bar

Basic Rocker Soles - Forefoot Rocker

Designed to load the weight
bearing area of the foot proximal to
the metatarsal heads so there is
less time spent on them.
Provides a stable midstance and
reduces shock on toe-off.
Indications:
Hallux Rigidus
Post-op, surgical fusion of MP or IP
joint.
Extreme metatarsalgia
Offloading of healing ulcer occurring
distally to the metatarsal heads
Relieve callous on distal portion of toes
(claw, hammer etc)
May include an extended steel
shank if required.

17
 Basic Rocker Soles - Mild Rocker
Provides metatarsal relief, reduce
forces at the ankle and midfoot and
increase propulsion.
Many manufacturers have build this
mild rocker into the shoes.
The design will assist gait and reduce
energy expended during ambulation.
Indications:
Simple metatarsalgia
Maintenance of healed ulcer
Pes Cavus foot
Minor ankle pain
Toe amputation
Painful flat foot
With an AFO
Hallux Limitus
May be used with extended steel
shank if required.

Basic Rocker Soles - Heel to Toe Rocker

Most common variation. This
design replaces lost motion at
ankle and will determine
midstance time.
The floor reaction forces on the
calcaneous are reduced and it
increases propulsion at toe off.
Indications:
Fusion or limited motion at ankle, knee
or hip
Calcaneal fracture, ulcer, skin graft or
muscle flap
Severely painful arthritic ankle or foot
Rigid claw or hammer toe deformity
Pes cavus foot
Midfoot amputation

Basic Rocker Soles - Negative Heel Rocker

The negative heel rocker will
unload the midfoot and forefoot.
Distal toe ulcers will benefit from
the heel weight-bearing. This style
is not recommended for ladies
used to pumps, the achilles tendon
will be too short.
Indications:
Forefoot ulcers
Prominent metatarsal heads
Extreme callusing
Ankle fixed in dorsiflexion
Patient must be able to dorsiflex the
foot and tolerate the transfer weight
bearing to mid and hindfoot.
Discontinue if there is discomfort in
achilles tendon.

18
 Basic Rocker Soles - Severe Angle Rocker
The severe angle rocker will
eliminate weightbearing
forces on the metatarsal
heads.
Indications:
Extreme relief of ulcerated or high-
risk metatarsal heads
Not indicated for problems at distal
ends of toes, shock on toe off is
increased. This rocker
decreases stability, changes gait
and is not recommended for the
patient with proprioception
problems.

Basic Rocker Soles - Double Rocker

The double rocker will relieve a

specific problem area or
prominence on the plantar surface
of the foot.
This rocker increases propulsion at
toe off and reduces shock at heel
strike.
There will be a shortened
midstance.
Indications:
Mid-foot prominence maintenance
Nodules on bottom midfoot (arthritis) to
de-weight.
Charcot joint

Basic Rocker Soles - Rocker Bar

The rocker bar transfers body
weight during locomotion and
shortens gait cycle.
This style is a longer metatarsal
bar with a convex shape that is
added to the sole bottom.
For metatarsal or tarsal bone
fractures: the rocker should begin
closer to the anterior portion and
continue forward to stiffen the sole
with a long rocker effect.
The neuropathic or hypersensitive
foot requires the high point
proximal to the metatarsal head to
shorten gait and provide a quick
toe off.

19
 Stabilizers
Stabilizers are additional
pieces of crepe or foam
material that is add to either
the medial or lateral side of
the shoe in order to increase
the base of support and
provide a reinforcement
against the foot rolling over
the side of the shoe.
Stabilizers are indicated for
severe pronation or
supination

Sole Flairs
Sole Flairs are additional pieces of
crepe or foam material that is add
to either the medial or lateral side
of the outsole in order to increase
the base of support
It does not provide a reinforcement
against the foot rolling over the
side of the shoe
Sole flairs are indicated for lateral
or medial ankle instability without
severe pronation or supination

Heel & Sole Wedges

Heel & sole wedges are used
to compensate for rearfoot
and forefoot valgus and varus
deformities
A wedge of material is place
either on the bottom of the
outsole or the outsole is split
and the wedge placed inside
the outsole
This modification may also be
indicated for over pronation
and over supination

20
 Elevations & Lifts
The heel lift is a common addition
for a mild pump bump, tight
achilles tendon, irritation of the
malleoli and or less of a leg
length discrepancy. Following an
achilles injury a heel lift will be
decreased as the patient can
tolerate the stretching.

Elevations are used to

compensate for leg length
discrepancies greater than inch.
Elevations can be put between the
sole and shoe or under the sole.
They are usually made from crepe
or two part foam to reduce weight

21