TABLE OF CONTENTS

Section Title Page

1 Forcible Entry History . 1

2 The Beginning

3 Responsibility

4 Tools
Conventional tools
Thru-the-lock tools
Hydraulic tools
External lock tools
Power tools
Specialty tools
Modified tools

5 Types of Locks
Key-in-the-knob lock
Tubular lock
Rim lock
Mortise lock
Magnetic lock

6 Types of Doors
Wood and glass panel door
Wood door
Metal door
Multi-lock door
Tempered glass door
Aluminum frame glass door
Replacement door
Sliding door
Pocket door

7 Additional Security Devices

Sliding bolt
Static bar
Angle iron
Cylinder Guards
Home-made locking devices
Lock box

8 Conventional Forcible Entry

Definition
Entry size-up
Steps for forcing a door
Striking the Halligan tool
Alternate methods to gap a door
Halligan tool gets stuck in a door
Drive the lock off the door
Angle Iron
Narrow hallways/recessed doors/tight spaces
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Section Title Page

8 (cont) Conventional Forcible Entry (cont)

Outward opening door
Difficulty gaining a purchase
Metal strip on the edge of the door

9 Hydraulic Forcible Entry Tools

Steps for forcing a door
Alternative methods to forcing a door
Angle iron on door
Magnetic lock
Multi-lock door

10 Hinges
Types of hinges
Forcing hinges
Batter the door
Standard hinge
Self-closing hinge
Pin hinge

11 Chocking the door

12 Thru-the-Lock Entry
Introduction
Size-up
Key-in-the-knob lock
Outward swinging door
Tubular locks
Rim locks
Forcing a rim lock
Special types of rim locks
Mortise locks
Forcing a mortise lock
Pivoting dead bolt
Forcing a pivoting dead bolt

13 Padlocks
Introduction
Categories of padlocks
Padlock size-up
Light duty padlocks
Heavy duty padlocks
Special padlocks
Gate locks
Associated hardware
Power tool techniques for forcing padlocks
Other tools for forcing padlocks

14 Roll-Down Doors/Gates
Introduction
Fireground Problems
TABLE OF CONTENTS

Section Title Page

14 (cont) Roll-Down Doors/Gates (cont)

Types of doors/gates
Sliding scissor gate
Manual roll-down gate
Mechanical roll-down gate
Electric roll-down gate
Open grill/designer gate
Airplane hanger/bi-fold door
Residential garage door
Locking devices
Cutting the roll-down
Additional locks and shield

15 Miscellaneous Security Problems

Window bars
Window gates
Iron gates
Child guard gates
Window/door barriers
Plywood covered window/door
Warehousing
Bulkhead doors

16 Tips and Techniques

The Halligan Tool
The Axe

17 Definitions
SPECIAL THANKS & ACKKNOWLEDGEMENTS

A special thanks to FDNY for their dedication and commitment that has made this forcible entry chapter.

The effort to complete this manual is dedicated to the sons of Captain John Vigiano, Firefighter John T.
Vigiano II (Ladder Company 132) and Detective 2nd Grade Joseph V. Vigiano (NYPD Emergency
Services Truck 2) and all of the first responders who gave their lives on September 11, 2001
-FDNY

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Captain John Vigiano (Ladder Company 176, retired)
Robert Morris (Rescue Company 1)
Lt. Mickey Conboy (Squad 41)
Captain Bill Youngston (Ladder Company 133, retired)
Captain Dennis Murphy (Squad 288, retired)
BC Stephen Geraghty (Battalion 50)
FF Kenneth DiTata (Ladder Company 111)
Firefighter James Cody (Ladder Company 24)
Firefighter John Faracco (Ladder Company 28, retired)
Included illustrations Zack Herman (Bridgeport FD) & Joe Fisher
Section 1

Forcible Entry History

Section 2

The Beginning
Section 3

Responsibility
RESPONSIBILITY
It is important to understand that for search, rescue and fire attack cant be achieved until entry
is made. Ladder companies are most often given the assignment of forcible entry, assisting en-
gine companies to make entry. Ladder companies can successfully obtain forcible entry and
forcible exit with a wide variety of tools and techniques. Some techniques are basic and others
are more difficult, but all are achievable with proper training and proficiency.

Proficiency
Firefighters need to be proficient in the basic entry skills.
Fast Entry. Most firefighters start at the front door or main entrance of the structure. Entry,
and often forced entry, must be achieved before an interior search, rescue, and firefight can
occur.
Reduce damage. Techniques to force entry on a door need to match the urgency to gain en-
try. There is no need to destroy a perfectly good door for a situation that is not a true emer-
gency. With training and techniques, we can rapidly force a door with minimal damage.
Professionalism. Pride in our work will be a direct reflection of the City in which we work
it. Leaving a door in still condition of which it still functions enables us to secure it after
the fire, preventing the chance of vandalism.

Jimmying
The technique of jimmying a door (spreading the door away from the jamb without damaging
the lock) can seldom be accomplished with todays building construction. Doors are now con-
structed with stronger doors and jambs as well as multiple locks on each door.

The primary motivations for forcible entry should be firefighter safety in both forcible entry and
forcible exit, followed by customer service. The firefighter needs to be skilled, and knowledge-
able in techniques and equipment to obtain forcible entry both rapidly and efficiently.

For non-emergency situations such as slow water leaks, fire alarm indication with no visible
signs of fire, etc, consider forcible entry techniques in gaining entry. In many instances, fire-
fighters can gain entry through a window or a thru-the-lock method of entry. Also consider
what will be done to secure the house after the incident is done.

In order to become proficient at the skill of forcible entry, the firefighter should have a mixture
of:

Hands on training this is the primary way firefighters learn and keep their skills sharp.

Experience actual calls where forcible entry is used..

Knowledge may be gained by experience, reading, classes, and sharing experience within the
Ladder Committee to exchange information and ideas.

Common sense trust your instincts, they are usually correct.

Size-up

Size-up begins with the call and does not stop until the fire is under control and all firefighters
are safely exited the structure. Size-up with regards to forcible entry is the ongoing evaluation
of the problems confronted with the fire situation. It needs be continually be evaluated and re-
evaluated. It is imperative that ladder companies assigned to forcible entry also consider forci-
ble EXIT in case interior crews need to bail out of the structure quickly.

When sizing up the structure, firefighters must consider the reason for entry. The tactical objec-
tive and severity of the incident must be considered. The goals are to save lives, extinguish the
fire, and stop further damage from an incident.

As firefighters get off the truck, the following questions should be considered:
Where is the fire?
How many floors are in the structure?
What type of occupancy?
What type of building?
In conducting a size-up, the following should be considered:

Occupancy knowing the structures in your first due, both residentially and commercially, will
help determine the types of doors and locks that may be encountered. It will also help assist in
knowing if any specialized tools will be required.

Door knowing the type of door and its components will assist in proper tool placement and
method of entry. This includes:

1. Direction of door opening: most residential doors open into the occupancy and
are considered inward swinging doors, while most commercial structures the
door opens out of the occupancy and are considered outward swinging doors.

2. Door frame: the structural member into which the door is hung. It may be made
out of either wood or metal.

3. Hinges: There are many types of hinges used today. The types most commonly
found which will be discussed in this chapter are (a) standard, (b) self-closing,
and (c) pin type.

4. Replacement door: a new pre-hung door and jamb that has been placed into an
existing door frame.

Locks to determine the degree of difficulty in forcible entry, a working knowledge of the vari-
ous types of locks, as well as a basic understanding of how they operate and are installed. The
number of locks and where they are placed on the door should also be determined.

The easiest type of door to make entry on is one that is already unlocked, always remember to
TRY BEFORE YOU PRY!
Section 4

Tools
CONVENTIONAL FORCIBLE ENTRY TOOLS
Axe (6 & 8 pound): A FLAT HEAD axe
should be used and a striking tool. Flat head
axes are either 6 or 8 pounds, and the 6
pound axe can be easily married up to the
Halligan tool for easy carrying. The 8 pound
axe has a larger blade and may not fit into
the Halligan tool unless it has been notched
(section 16). Using an 8 pound axe will de-
liver more power to the object it is hitting.
Axes should be dressed and the striking
part of the axe should be filed and kept square. Avoid having the crown of the axe from mush-
rooming over.

The axe with the Halligan tool forms a set of irons which are the basic forcible entry tools.
The axe can also be used to:
Chock open a door.

Be a backstop for the Halligan of hydraulic tool.

 Hold the purchase when repositioning the Halligan.

Halligan Tool: There are many different brands and styles of this popular tool. They are most
commonly 30 in length, with a beveled fork, tapered adz and pike.

Notch in Axe Blade: An 8 pound axe head may be notched so that the Halligan tool may be
married to it.
Maintenance of the Irons
Proper maintenance of tools and equipment is the first stop in tool safety. Tools should always
be inspected and cleaned an a regular basis. Tools and equipment must be checked for wear
and damaged, and if any is found, be removed from service until it is repaired or replaced.
Proper care of forcible entry tools with increase their service life and reliability.

Metal Parts
Remove any dirt or ruse with steel wool or an emery cloth.
Use a metal file to maintain the proper profile and cutting edge.
Sharpen edges and remove and burrs with a file.
Do not keep the blade edge to sharp to prevent it from chipping.
Do not use a grinder on the blade, it may overheat the metal causing it to lose
the temper.
Do not paint the metal parts, but keep them lightly oiled if desired.
Never apply oil to the striking surface of the axe or Halligan.
Dress the edges to keep them square and free of burrs which may splinter off
when being struck.

Wood & Fiberglass Handles

Clean with soap and water; rise and dry completely.

Check for damage and sand off any splinters.
Do not paint or varnish the handle. A small band of paint may be used for tool
identification.
Ensure that the head of the tool is securely fastened.
Sledge Hammer: This tool comes in a variety of sizes, but the most common and versatile is
the 10 pound model. This striking tool may be used in place of the axe to form the set of
irons. It may also be used to strike directly on the door or to remove cinder block as well as
many other building materials.

THRU-THE-LOCK TOOLS

K-Tool: This tool was developed for pulling a lock cylinder (thru-the-lock entry) on a door. It
is used with an axe/sledge and Halligan tool.

The K-Tool is forced behind the ring and face of the cylinder until the wedging blades take a
bite into the cylinder body. Light strikes with the axe are used to set the K-Tool.

The Halligan tools adz end is place into the slot on the face of the K-Tool and pride upwards,
pulling the cylinder from the door.

The Officers Tool/A-Tool: The Officers Tool/A-tool is placed forked end over the cylinder
and lightly struck with an axe. Once the forks are behind the cylinder, the tool is moved up-
ward and the cylinder is pulled.
Shove Tool: This tool is made out of a flexible, 10 gauge sheet steel. The device is slid be-
tween the door and the doorframe above the spring latch. Once the hook end catch the latch,
the tool is pulled toward the firefighter, which then depresses the spring latch opening the door.
This tool will only work on outward swinging doors.

Vice Grips: These locking pliers can be used to unscrew a mortise cylinder from the lock
housing or to simply hold a lock while it is being cut with a circular saw. A short chain may
also be attach to the end, with the vice grips attached to a door handle. During a forcible entry
operation, the firefighter can keep control of the door even after it has been forced open.
HYDRAULIC TOOLS

These tools are used for forcing inward swinging doors. They work best on doors mounted on
metal frames and have also been used to force the sliding doors found on elevators. More infor-
mation will be covered in Section 9: Hydraulic Forcible Entry Tools.

Rabbit Tool: This is a portable, two-piece unit that is connected by a high-pressure hose. The
large jaw will spread force over a greater area. In exerts more than four tons of force with a jaw
spread over approximately 6 inches. The pump is designed to be operated in the horizontal po-
sition, but may be used vertically if the hose is facing downward.

Hydra-Ram: This is a one-piece unit similar to the Rabbit Tool. The maximum force exerts
over five tons over a spread of approximately 4 inches.
EXTERNAL LOCK TOOLS

Bam-Bam Tool: Also known as a slap hammer or dent puller, this tool was primarily used
to auto body shops to pull dents out of automobiles. This is a successful took is pulling lock
cylinders from padlocks. It requires a good quality self-tapping screw. More on the tool will be
covered in Section 13: Padlocks.

Duckbill Lock Breaker: This tool was derived from the pick-axe and modified to be used
solely for forcible entry. It is used to drive the body of the padlock off of the shackle. The ta-
pered head is placed into the shackle of the padlock and driven down with a flat head axe or
sledge hammer.

Bolt Cutters: These tools can be used for cutting hasps, light-duty padlocks and chains. It is
limited to the spread of the blade and is not recommended for cutting case hardened shackles as
it may damage the blades. If possible, cut the staple holding the padlock, if you have to cut the
padlock, cut both sides of the shackle.
Pipe Wrench and Cheater Bar: This is a large pipe wrench with the ability to slide a cheater
bar over the handle for added leverage. Adding the cheater bar drastically increase the torque
that is applied to the locking device.

POWER TOOLS

Circular Saw/K-12: The power saw improves forcible entry efficiency by facilitating cutting
operations at fires, especially when roll-down doors and security gates are present. These saws
come in a variety of models and require a metal cutting blade when cutting padlocks and/or roll
-down security doors. More will be covered in Section 14: Roll-Down Security Gates.
Cordless Drill: This drill operates off of a battery. It may be used as a method of thru-the-lock
entry causing minimal damage to the door.

Reciprocating Saw: This saw operates off of a battery. It is a versatile tool good for removing
gates and bars, and is also very useful in vehicle extrication.

SPECIALTY TOOLS (Squads)

Cutting Torch: Squads utilize Petrogen, a mix of gasoline and oxygen, that are utilized for
cutting metal and iron. Cutting torches may be used to cut gates, locks, and other metal locking
devices.
MODIFIED TOOLS

Modified tools are standard tools and/or devices that have been modified for use in the fire ser-
vice. Shown are the most common types out in the field.

Channel Lock Pliers: modified commercial Channel Locks into two Key Tools for the Rim
and Mortise type locks.

Key Tools: Eyebolts and standard 10-Penny nails modified as Key Tools.
Section 5

Types of Locks
TYPES OF LOCKS

Key-in-the-Knob Lock: The locking mechanism is part of the knob. These doors are mostly
found residentially, but may also be used in commercial building, especially on internal doors.

Tubular Dead Bolt: This is the most common locking device found in homes. It may be sin-
gle or double key activated. It is a cross between the mortise lock, rim lock, and key-in-the-
knob lock.
Rim Locks: These locks are usually installed as an added lock. They are installed on the in-
side surface of the door (with the cylinder extended through the door.) Only the cylinder is
visible from the outside of the door. The types of rim locks are; deadbolt, night latch, and verti-
cal dead bolts.

Deadbolt unlike a spring latch, this

device must be manually thrown to
engage the bolt into the keeper. With
the bolt extended, this lock can not be
engaged by slamming the door.

Night Latch- the latch is beveled to

allow the door to be slammed shut.
Some of these spring latches have an
inside button to prevent the latch
from returning within the lock to pre-
vent sliding open.

Vertical Dead Bolt this rim lock has

a bolt which drops down and through
the keeper. This device must also be
manually engaged and has a jimmy
proof lock.
Mortise Locks: These locks are designed and manufactured to fit into a cavity in the edge of
either a metal or solid wood door. They have a solid, threaded key cylinder, which is secured in
place by set screws. The two most common types are; mortise/latch key and mortise/door
know.

Dead Bolt and Latch: This commonly used lock today contains both a latch and a bolt in a sin-
gle unit. It is distinguishable by the proximity of the lock cylinder to the door knob.

Mortise/Latch Key Deadbolt and Latch Mortise/Door Knob

Magnetic Lock: A magnetic strip holds the door secure. Found mostly in commercial build-
ings and city facilities. These doors are opened up with a key card. Placing a common nail
across the magnetic strip will prevent the door from relocking behind firefighters that have
made entry.
Section 6

Types of Doors
TYPES OF DOORS

Wood and Glass Panel Door: This type of door is found in older buildings. It provided light
to the public hall in multiple dwellings. The original plain glass panels were changed to wire
glass. Some wood and glass doors may contain plate glass. The glass has significant weight to
it, and when broken, can cause serious injuries.

Wood Door: There are two types of wood doors; Hollow Core and Solid Core.

Hollow Core: These doors are made up of an assembly of wood strips or cardboard that
are formed into a grid. These strips are glued together within the frame forming a stiff
and strong core. Over this framework and grid are layers of plywood veneer paneling.
 Solid Core: In these doors, the entire core is constructed of solid material, such as
tongue and groove boards that are glued within the frame. Other solid core doors may
be filled with a compressed material that is fire retardant. In both cases, the door is side
with a plywood veneer covering.

Kalamein Door: In older buildings, a main problem with multiple dwell-

ing structures was the burn through time with wood doors. To overcome
this problem and increase the burn through time, these wood doors were
covered with metal and known as Kalamein Doors.

Metal Door: Constructed of metal, these doors are usually set in hollow or
metal doorframes. When set in a metal door frame and surrounded by ma-
sonry construction, they hold their form and hold back considerable fire.
Metal doors are found most commonly in a commercial structure.
Multi-Lock Door: One of the most advanced locking systems that utilizes a key a multiple
bolts and keepers. Built into the door are four rods, which extend out from the keyway toward
all four edge of the door. The throw of each rod is approximately 1 into the frame. It is de-
signed to prevent any rod from moving separately. Originally built as a deterrent against terror-
ism, it is used today in occupancies where security is important. From the exterior, this door
can be identified by the keyway in the center of the door.

Multi-Lock Door (add-on): With the popularity of the multi-lock door came the less expen-
sive version which is mounted on the inside surface of the door. Similar to the Rim lock, at-
tached to the inside of the door are four bars, which extend out from the keyway toward all four
edges of the door. The throw of each bar is approximately 1 into the frame or keeper. It is de-
signed to prevent and rod from moving separately. When properly installed, it is as effective as
the Multi-Lock Door.
Tempered Glass Door: These doors are recognized by the lack of a full frame with little or no
trim. The door handle is usually mounted through the glass and the lock may be installed in
either the top of bottom stile. These doors are commonly referred to as a Glass Door.

The breaking characteristics of tempered glass are different than ordinary plate glass due to the
heat treatment give to the glass during tempering. This process results in high-tension stress in
the center of the glass and high-tension compression stress in the exterior surfaces. These ten-
sion and compression stresses balance each other. The heat treatment also increases the
strength and flexibility as well as the resistance to shock, pressure, and temperature increases.

Approximately four times stronger than plate glass, when broken, tempered glass disintegrates
into relatively small pieces.

Aluminum Frame Glass Door: These are the most popular doors found in commercial occu-
pancies. It is not uncommon to have the plate glass replaced with tempered glass, lexon, or
plexi-glass.
Replacement Door: A relatively new door application where the existing doorframe is cov-
ered with a pre-hung steel door and a new metal pre-assembled doorframe is attached to it.
This replacement assembly is screwed into the old frame. It is to recognize a replacement door
and the forcible entry tools must be placed between the new doorframe and the door, NOT be-
tween the old doorframe and the replacement doorframe. The door with the frame is laid in
over the existing frame.

Sliding Doors: These doors are most often found

leading to the backyard of a residence. These doors
may travel either left or right of their opening. They
are supported on a metal track and their side move-
ment is made easier by guide wheels. A bar is
sometime laid into the track to prevent breaking in. BAR

Pocket Doors: These doors are found interior and slide

into a partition or wall when pushed open. These doors
may be forced similar to a swing door, except that they
must be pried straight backward from the lock. The
pockets for these doors create a hidden space for fires.
Section 7

Additional Security Devices

ADDITIONAL SECURITY DEVICES

Sliding Bolt: A device that travels in a track which locks into a recessed hole or hardware.
Padlock may pass through the rear of the bolt and make the bolt secure. These slide bolts may
be made of case-hardened steel and are installed with screws or carriage bolts. These screws or
carriage bolts may be exposed or guarded.

Static Bar: A fastening device that can be mounted across the door at any point. Generally
they are in pair and held in place by brackets which may be fastened to the doorframe. These
devices can be identified by the outside of the door by the four carriage bolts that hold the
brackets.

Note: With the sliding bolt or static bar in place, firefighters will know that occupants did not
exit through that door. There is either another means of egress or the occupants are still inside
of the structure.
Angle Iron: A device secured to the door and occasionally the doorframe. It can be found on
both inward and outward swinging doors. It may be partial length or run the full vertical length
of the door. It represents another form of security that is added on by the owner.

Shielded Angle Iron: A device that is mounted to both the

door and frame and interlocks on itself. It many be partial
length or fun the full length of the door. It is two separate
pieces mounted, one to each surface. By adding this inter-
locking piece of angle iron, additional security is added to the
occupancy.

Note: The arrow points out a lock cylinder located

near the bottom of the door. This simple set-up pre-
vents most push-in forcible entries.
Cylinder Guards: A raised rectangular metal plate over the lock cylinder that is held in place
with four carriage bolts. These bolts may be exposed or hidden in the body of the guard.

Home Made Locking Devices: A method of securing a door is a modification called the
chain lock. In this application, the occupant bolts a length of heavy chain to the inside of the
door. Generally, the carriage bolt and washer are secured within one foot from the edge of the
door and one foot above the door knob. The other piece of chain is attached to the door frame.
A padlock adjoins the two pieces of chain.

This application is sometimes overlooked due to the presence of a single carriage bolt in an ob-
scure location of the door. If a single carriage bolt is noticed in the door, suspect a chain like
and cut/drive the bolt through the door BEFORE forcing the door. This can be done with the
pike of the Halligan or sharp blows with the axe or sledge hammer. If the bolt on this door is
missed, entry may be delayed.
If the bolt is missed and the door is forced open, lock the fork of the Halligan around the chain
at the frame side and attempt to pull it out of the frame. While doing this, maintain pressure on
the door in the open position.

If accessible, cut the chain with the circular saw.

If fire comes out of the door, shut the door until a charge hose line is in place and continue the
operation.

Lock Box: This method of security not only protects the property, but limits the damage to
many locks and doors. It is required by most cities in the Valley on commercial occupancies,
and may also be found in residence of the elderly that frequently need assistance from the fire
department.

Only the local fire departments carry a master key which cannot be duplicated. When respond-
ing to a call, opening the lock box and obtaining a key is usually the quickest and most effective
way to gain entry to a structure, while maintaining a high level of customer service.
Section 8

Conventional Forcible Entry

CONVENTIONAL FORCIBLE ENTRY

Definition

Conventional Forcible Entry is the oldest and most versatile method of entry. Usually made
of a two-man team, using a flat head axe or sledge hammer and a Halligan tool. It requires skill
and technique to master and at times may have to be accomplished by one person. When forci-
ble entry is required, it should be started immediately. A door should be forced in such a man-
ner as to preserve its integrity. Once a firefighter has mastered the skill of using their irons,
most doors, even those that are well secured, can be forced quickly. Forcible entry is a matter
of technique and leverage.

Entry Size-Up
The fire ground is a stressful place to work in, especially for first due units trying to complete
an array of tasks. Among the most important tasks is gaining rapid entry into the structure.
This can only be accomplished by rapid and accurate entry size-up.

Prior to forcing a door, the forcible entry team should

TRY THE DOOR, it may be unlocked.
Take note of the door and locking devices involved.
Note the condition behind the door (any smoke, fire, heat).
Check for resistance on the door; push in at the top, center and bottom. This may help de-
termine where locking devices are located.

To master this skill, a firefighter should have a basic knowledge of the types of doors and secu-
rity of which they will encounter, in addition to the skill gained through hands-on experience.
Also, the firefighters must have the confidence in their skills that will allow them to work
through any situation under extreme pressure.
Steps to Forcing a Door
Most conventional forcible entry involves several moves in order to accomplish the goal. In
order to make it understandable, the conventional forcible entry method has been broken down
it to three separate steps. Each step may have additional maneuvers, but once the firefighter
understands the basic principles, it is easy to follow and move quickly through the steps.

The recommended steps for force a door are:

GAP
SET
FORCE

Steps for Forcing Inward Swinging Doors

1. GAP the door this step will make an opening in the door and/or frame to create a purchase
point. It may also force open a poorly secured door.
Work the ADZ end into the stop of the doorframe approximately 6 above or below
the lock. The tool can be set into the frame with a baseball type swing and driving the
ADZ end into the frame.
If there are 2 locks close together, go between them (unless they are stacked locks)

Note: The reason for the 6 rule is to avoid the Halligan from striking the lock. The fork of the
Halligan is about 3 wide and most lock bodies are also 3 wide.

Technique Tip: You will lose power when pushing down of the pick hits the door, you will in-
crease power by move the tool up.
2. Set the tool This step requires the most skill. This involves working the fork of the Halli-
gan tool into the gap to spread the door away from the frame. The Halligan tool is consid-
ered SET when the fork is locked in to the inside of the doorframe.
Position the Halligan tool fork approximately 6 above or below the lock cylinder.
If the tool is too close, the fork may hit the lock and will not be able to lock in
the frame. If the fork is too far away, the door may flex and the lock will not fail.
Place the fork of the Halligan tool (bevel to the door) and angle the Halligan to
work around the doorstop. This is considered the ideal position since it produces
the most spread of the door and frame and puts the most stress on the locking de-
vice. It is important that the firefighter using the Halligan to walk the tool
around the doorstop and frame.
This method give a greater range of motion to the Halligan tool since the adz end
will be facing away from the door and not strike the door while forcing it.
It also offers a better striking position for another firefighter to hit with an axe or
sledge hammer.

Note: When there are multiple locks closely spaced on the door (stacked locks), position the
tool above the upper lock or below the lower lock. The 6 rule is a general rules and should
allow the fork to clear the inside of the lock.

The forcible entry firefighter should be between the door and the tool. Generally,
the forcible entry firefighter should have their should in contact with the door.
This position gives a good view of the area where the tool is being driven in and
also gives a full range of motion for the tool as it is pushed away from the door as
it is being driven in.
The forcible entry firefighter should keep his eyes on the FORK end of the Halli-
gan tool where it is being driven into the GAP.
Keep moving the Halligan tool away from the door as it is being driven in (struck).
Set the Tool

Technique Tip: As soon as the tip of the fork is past the edge of the door, sharply push the tool
away from the door. Spring the door away from the frame and maintain pressure on the tool
to prevent the tips from striking the frame.
When the Halligan is nearly perpendicular to the door, drive it in forcefully. The
FORK end of the tool is driven past the inside of the frame. This will ensure the
tool being locked into the position and not slipping when pressure is applied.
The tool is SET when the ARCH of the FORK is even with the inside of edge of the
door/doorstop.
Striking the Halligan Tool
Coordination and communication must be maintained between the members of the forcible en-
try team.

The firefighter holding the Halligan tool controls the operation.

The firefighter with the axe/sledge strikes the Halligan PERPENDICULAR to the
ADZ.
The firefighter with the axe/sledge may have to stand, crouch, or kneel to obtain the
best position.
The firefighter with the axe/sledge only strikes when told.
The commands HIT and STOP must be understood.

To Maintain Control
Short chopping blows.
Perpendicular to the adz end.
In-line with the shaft.

Note: As the tool is SET, more powerful strikes may be delivered.

3. FORCE
When the Halligan is set, force is applied to the tool creating leverage against the door.
The forcible entry member change position to face the door. This gives them a better
position to apply pressure.
Ensure everyone is ready.
The other firefighter of the team should try to control the sudden opening of the door
by holding onto the doorknob or attaching a tether to the knob.

Push in sharply to create maximum force.

If strong resistance is met, a second firefighter may be used to assist.
As the door opens, the second firefighter MUST MAINTAIN CONTROL OF THE
DOOR.

Note: In the above method, as the door is flexed from pressure, note the presence of fire behind
the door. If fire is present, make sure there is a charged hose line in place to protect the forcible
entry team.
ALTERNATE METHODS TO GAP AN INWARD SWINGING DOOR

Pike or Adz into the Frame

Driving the PIKE or ADZ into the doorframe with either the axe or sledgehammer, or simply by
taking a baseball swing, should give the tool enough bite to ensure a purchase. Try to bury the
PIKE into the frame as close to the door and lock as possible. This procedure is very quick and
simple for a one-man operation. This procedure may even force the door open. It works best
on wooden doors with wooden frames.

Place the PIKE between the door and the doorstop, on or near the lock.
Drive (set) the pike with the axe.
Push down or pull into the door (gap) with the Halligan tool.
Bevel to the Frame
Place the BEVEL of the Halligan
tool against the frame and with the
axe or sledge, drive the fork end in.

This is usually done when there

is a very tight door with stiff
resistance:

-Usually a metal door with

a metal frame.
-An obstruction is in the
way making it difficult to
strike the tool.

As the tool is driven in, it must not be

driven into the frame. This will take a
feel of the tool to do so correctly.

Note: This method does not give full range of motion to the tool. The adz will strike the door
as the firefighter pushes towards the door.

Batter the Door

A few sharp blows with the Halligan tool, axe, or sledge may loosen the door enough to slip the
adz end in. When doing this method, the firefighter must hit the rail of the door since it is the
strongest area of the door. Striking the door in other areas many only weaken the doors integ-
rity or knock out panels allowing smoke or fire furthering the difficulty of forcible entry.

Technique Tip: If the door is set in a weak frame, several sharp strikes to the door right on the
lock may split the frame. This is especially true of the door has a mortise lock. The mortise
lock is set into a cavity made in the door that may compromise the doors integrity.
Batter the Door Frame

Batter the door frame by striking it with an

axe, sledge, or Halligan tool approximately
6 above or below the lock and driving it
away from the door to allow entry of the Hal-
ligan tool. Occasionally steel framed are
filled with concrete and may not crush.

Remove the Doorstop

Remove the doorstop on wood and/or

Kalamein doors with the adz or fork end of
the Halligan tool. This is a simple way to
open a door with minimal damage. This
method works best on wood doors with wood
frames.
The Halligan Tool Gets Stuck
Problem: The fork is in contact with the doorframe.

Solution:
Increase the angle away from the door.
Rock the tool to free it.
Re-gap the door; reverse the tool (bevel to frame)
Move further away from the lock.

Problem: The fork is hitting the bolt or lock.

Solution:
Reposition the Halligan tool above or below the lock.
The Halligan Tool Gets Stuck

Problem: The fork is wedged in a tight door.

Solution: Springing the door.

Move the Halligan tool side to side to free up the tool.
Push sharply and hold until the tool is driven further in.

Problem: The fork is wedged in a tight door.

Solution: Slipping the Lock.

Move the Halligan up and down. This may allow the tool to slip past the bolt of the lock.
The Door Does Not Open During the Initial Operation

Problem: The door flexes and does not open.

Solution: Method A - Using the Adz

Maintain the purchase point with the axe.
Slip the adz inside and behind the doorframe.
Both firefighters push and pull on the Halligan.
If the doorframe collapses and the adz gets stuck between the door and the frame, use the
axe to wedge open the space, then push or pull the Halligan away from the door to release
the adz.

Front View Top View

Note: This method greatly increases the range of motion of the Halligan tool and will break
most locks.

Problem: The door flexes and does not open.

Solution: Method B - Using the Adz

Extra push may be obtained by placing the head or blade of the axe between the Halligan
and the door.
Place either the blade or head of the axe into the door seam.
Push in sharply with the Halligan.

Blade Into Door Seam Head Into Door Seam

Problem: Door only opens partially due to strong locks.

Solution:
Place the Halligan tool directly on the lock and drive it off the door. Driving the lock off
the inside of the door takes sharp blows with the axe/sledge. Remember that you are trying
to drive out the screws that hold the lock onto the door.

Note: If the firefighter can crush the door enough to see the locking device (especially the ver-
tical deadbolt type), they may be able to shear off the striker with the Halligan tool.
Angle Iron Inward Opening Door
Usually bolted to the door, may be partial or full length.
The angle iron may be flat stock or shielded (interlocked with J channel.)
Place the BEVEL towards the angle iron and the tool PERPENDICULAR to the door be-
tween the angle iron (shield) and the frame.
Lock the tips of the fork into the doorstop and push in sharply, (GAP) the door with the fork
between the angle iron and the frame.
Reset the tool and drive in (SET).
Using the angle iron under the tool, force the door open. (FORCE).

Forcing the J-Chanel Inward Opening Door

A newer type of device that is screwed into the door frame.
The technique is modified by driving the fork end of the Halligan between the shield and
the door frame.
Drive the fork un until the tips hit the door.
Push the tool toward the door, popping the shield off of the frame and bending it out of the
way.
Re-set the tool and drive it in until it is set.
Force the door.
Narrow Hallway or Recessed Door
When there is little room and/or limited visibility to swing an axe or sledge, an alternate method
of striking the Halligan would be:
Slide the head of the axe/sledge along the shaft of the Halligan tool and strike the shoulder
of the fork end.
Bevel to the frame may give better results due to easier entry and better angle to strike the
tool.

Note: The shoulder of the fork end must be squared

off to strike it. To do this, see Section 16.
FORCING OUTWARD OPENING DOORS

Using the Adz End

Place the ADZ between the door and the frame.

GAP the door by rocking the tool up and down to spread the door from the frame.
SET the tool, and pry the door out by pulling on the Halligan so the ADZ can be driven in.
Be careful not to bury the tool into the doorstop (see Section 16).
FORCE the door, set the ADZ end around the inside of the door.

Note: The firefighter faces the door at all times.

FORCING OUTWARD OPENING DOORS

Using the Fork End

GAP the door by placing the bevel side of the FORK toward the frame, just above or below
the lock.
SET the tool, pry the door by pulling out the Halligan so the fork can be driven in past the
inside frame. Be careful not to bury the tool into the doorstop (see Section 16).
FORCE the door, set the FORK end around the inside of the door and by pulling or pushing
the Halligan tool away from the door.
In order to use this method, the Halligan must have sufficient room to allow the movement
of the tool away from the door.

Note: These methods will be dictated by the configuration of the building or any obstructions
near the door.

PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN FORCING

Problem: Recessed door or obstruction.

Solution: To allow the ADZ to be driven in and

around the door stop to provide sufficient space for the
ADZ end to move away from the door.
Make a hole in the wall (if possible), for the move-
ment of the tool.
GAP - SET - FORCE the door.
PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN FORCING OUTWARD SWINGING DOORS
Problem: Difficulty getting a purchase point (tight seam between door and frame).

Solution:
Use the blade of the axe
Use the fork or adz end of the Halligan.
- Tilting the adz up or down may start the purchase point easier.

Blade of the Axe Adz of the Halligan

METAL STRIP ON THE EDGE OF THE OUTWARD OPENING DOOR

Additional security may be installed on these doors by bolting a metal shield to protect the
space between the door and the frame. It may be full or a partial length shield. Dealing with
the shield will require an additional step before proceeding to Gap- Set - Force.
METAL STRIP ON THE EDGE OF THE OUTWARD OPENING DOOR
Drive the ADZ end under the edge of the metal strip and push the tool toward the door.
Work the ADZ between the door and the frame and drive in to establish a gap.

Drive the FORK end under the edge of the metal strip and push the tool back toward the
door.
Work the FORK between the door and the frame. .

Note: Reverse the tool of necessary.

METAL STRIP ON THE EDGE OF THE OUTWARD OPENING DOOR

Drive the ADZ end between the door

and the shield, bending the shield away
to allow entry of the Halligan FORK.

Shear the bolts and pry, bend or remove the

shield as a last resort.

Note: At time, if the angle iron is well secured, it may assist you in opening the door, if not,
you may have to completely remove it to open the door.
Section 9

Hydraulic Forcible Entry Tools

HYDRAULIC TOOLS
These tools are designed for doors that open inward and are also successful for opening sliding
elevator doors. These effective tools work best on doors with strong metal frames.

These tools are simple to use. The Rabbit Tool is a two piece unit made up of a spreader and a
pump. The Hydra-Ram is a one piece unit that combines the pump and spreader together.

Hydra-Ram Rabbit Tool

RECOMMENDED STEPS FOR FORCING A DOOR

GAP THE DOOR - Using the ADZ end.

SET THE TOOL - Insert the jaws between the door and the frame midway between the
knob and the lock. The jaws must be in the CLOSED position.
FORCE THE DOOR - The door should open within several pumps of handle.

GAP SET FORCE

Note: When there are multiple locks, insert the jaws between the knob and lock and move to
the proximity of the next lock.
THE DOOR DOES NOT OPEN DURING THE INITIAL OPERATION
Problem: THE TOOL IS FULL EXTENDED AND THE DOOR DIDNT OPEN.

Solution: Reposition the tool on the lock.

Locate the locking device
Wedge the door open with the head of the axe of Halligan tool.
Reposition the hydraulic tool directly on the lock and extend.

Solution: Drive the lock off the door.

Maintain the opening with the hydraulic tool.
Drive the lock off the door with the axe and the Halligan.
THE DOOR DOES NOT OPEN DURING INITIAL OPERATION
Problem: The tool is fully extended and the door still does not open.

Solution: Reposition the tool inside the doorframe.

Maintain the opening with the hydraulic tool.
Slip the axe or Halligan into the gap while maintaining the purchase.
Reposition the hydraulic tool INSIDE THE DOOR FRAME.
Pump the handle to extend the tool.

Reposition Extend

Note: This technique may only work with the Rabbit Tool.

Problem: The door is nearly forced, but needs a little more.

Solution: Use the axe head to extend the spread.

Maintain a purchase point with the Halligan.
Place the head of the axe between the door and the jaw, then extend.
ANGLE IRON INWARD OPENING DOOR

Usually bolted to the door, may be partial or full

length.
The angle iron may be flat stock or shielded
(interlocked with J channel).

Partial Angle Iron

GAP the door by placing the hydraulic tool above or
below the angle iron and open to full extension.
Maintain this purchase point with the axe or Halli-
gan.
Reposition the hydraulic tool between the door stop
and the edge of the angle iron (on the angle iron)

Full Length Angle Iron

GAP the door by driving the FORK end of the Halligan between the angle iron and the
frame, pushing the Halligan towards the door.
Reposition the hydraulic tool on the angle iron and extend.

MAGNETIC LOCK

These types of locks are usually installed on outward swinging doors. This is the exception to
the use of the hydraulic forcible entry tool, which is primarily used for inward swinging doors.
Place the Halligan through the door handle with the ADZ end towards the firefighter.
Place the jaw of the hydraulic tool behind the ADZ end of the Halligan.
Pump the tool using the door frame as the base and pull the door from the magnetic lock.

Note: The hydraulic rams have enough power to overcome the force of the magnetic lock.
CUTTING THE MAGNETIC LOCK
Many times, from the exterior of the building, a carriage bolt will be visible at the top of the
door. Cut this bolt at an angle and open the door. The magnet will stay attached to the mag-
netic pad, but the door will swing freely. This will also prevent the door from re-locking behind
crews going interior.

The carriage bolt can be seen from the ex-

terior of the building. Cut the carriage
bolt at an angle with the circular saw.

Exterior Door View

Jamb View Interior Door View

Note: If the door is forced open and not cut, the firefighter can put a magnet over the magnetic pad to prevent the
door from re-locking.
MULTI-LOCK DOOR

These types of doors, as described in Section 6, are formidable doors. Listed is the suggested
order of tool placement in forcing these types of doors.
Force the lock side pin first (door knob side).
Force the top pin second.
Force the bottom pin third (may be forced by placing the hydraulic tool at the bottom corner
of the knob side).
If necessary, force the hinge side fourth.
Section 10

Hinges
HINGES

TYPES:
There are many types of used both residentially and commercially today. The most common
types that will be covered in this sections are:

Standard
Self-Closing
Pin Type

STANDARD HINGES
Most common type of hinge found in residential
occupancies. May find two or three mountain on
a door. The center pin connects the two pieces

SELF CLOSING HINGE

This hinge is found most often in commercial
buildings. It is a seal, spring-loaded hinge.
These hinges are mounted in sets of two or three
per door.

PIN TYPE HINGE

These hinges are mounted on the exterior of
commercial occupancies. The pin is secured
to the frame and the hinge is secured to the door.

Forcing a door at the hinge should NOT be a primary means of gaining entry.
Once the door is forced this way, the door will lose integrity.
The primary means of entry should be the lock side.
Forcing a door at the hinge side should be done when all attempts at the lock side have
failed.
STANDARD HINGE - INWARD OPENING DOOR

USING THE HALLIGAN

Force the door enough to expose the hinge so work can be done directly on the hinge.
Create a gap between the door and the jamb using the ADZ or FORK end of the Halligan.
Place the working end of the tool just below the hinge.
- ADZ end apply force up and down.
- FORK end apply force toward and away from the door.
Using the PIKE end as a fulcrum point, separate the hinge from the door frame.

USING A HYDRAULIC TOOL

Create a GAP on the hinge side of the door by battering the door with a sledge or axe
striking on the solid part of the door adjacent to the hinge.
SET the hydraulic tool above or below the hinge.
FORCE the door using the hydraulic tool in the same manner as from the lock side.
STANDARD HINGE

REMOVING A DOOR
With the door partially open, slip the ADZ between
the door and the frame just below the hinge, then pry
up and down.

Note: Always attack the upper hinge first and work

down. This will keep the door from pinching on to
the tool

STANDARD HINGE - OUTWARD OPENING DOOR

USING THE HALLIGAN

Place the FORK end of the Halligan over the
exposed hinge and pry up or down
On stronger hinges, drive the Halligan over
the hinge and twist side-to-side to break or
loosen the mountain screws, then pull out.
Remove the pin if possible to separate the
hinge
Note: Always attack the upper hinge first and work
down. This will keep the door from pinching on to
the tool

USING A CIRCULAR SAW/K-12

Starting with the top hinge and working
down, cut the pin portion of the hinge off of
the door.
SELF CLOSING HINGES
These hinges may be found in a variety of structures, but are often found on bulkhead doors.
They usually have a threaded rod with two cap nuts, which can be easily unscrewed with a pair
of channel lock or, a snap-on cap which may be pried off.

SCREW OR SNAP ON CAPS

Remove the top cap
- If it is threaded, use the channel locks
- If it is a snap-on, use the FORK end of the Halligan
Pull on the bottom cap downward and out of the cylinder.

USING A CIRCULAR SAW/K-12

Starting with the top hinge and working
down, cut the pin portion of the hinge off of
the door.
PIN HINGES

These types of hinges are usually found on shutters. They can also be found on commercial
structures and places of public assembly. The pin is attached to the window or doorframe,
and the shutter or door holds the corresponding hinge.

USING A CIRCULAR SAW/K-12

Cut across the metal flange part of the hinge

USING A SLEDGE HAMMER

Break the brick or masonry around where the
hinge is anchored into.

USING A HYDRAULIC TOOL

Make a GAP between the doorframe and the
door below the hinge.
SET the hydraulic tool in the gap below the
hinge.
FORCE the door hinge away from the frame.
Section 11

Chocking the Door

CHOCKING THE DOOR
This is a very basic and important task that must be addressed during fire operations. Many
doors are self-closing and self-locking that could delay other firefighters from making entry as
well as trapping other firefighters operating interior.

When chocking a door, it is important to use something that will not be knocked out easily or
create a trip hazard.

The following tools can be used when chocking doors:

WEDGE

AXE UNDER THE DOOR

AXE IN THE DOOR JAMB

HOOK CHOCK
Section 12

Thru-the-Lock Entry
THRU-THE-LOCK ENTRY

The Thru-the-Lock approach is a means of gaining entry by attacking the locking device and
opening the door with little or no damage to the door or frame. Making entry with this means,
under the right conditions, creates excellent customer service and promotes good public rela-
tions.

This method of entry would only be used when time and incident conditions are not urgent or
where conventional methods of forcing entry would create more damage than the fire itself.

Security devices on doors are constantly changing to provide added security. This section will
address the most common types of locks that firefighters are faced with in the Valley. This sec-
tion will outline some basic principles, methods, and techniques used in Thru-the-Lock Entry.

SIZE-UP

Size-up is an important function that is performed for all functions on the fire ground. It is criti-
cal that a proper size-up is done before we begin our forcible entry operation.

Though it is impossible to know for sure what type of lock is securing the occupancy by look-
ing at a solid door from the exterior of the structure, we can make an educated guess based on:
Type of occupancy
Type of door
Location of the lock cylinder
Direction of the door travel (inward/outward opening)
What we see on the door other then locks (carriage bolts)
Anything unusually (cylinders out of line)
Knowledge of the type of lock
Let the fire condition dictate the method of entry

Combine all the information with past experience and proceed in attacking the lock, not the
door. The cheaper the lock, the more difficult it may be to force. Cheaper locks have a ten-
dency to break causing delays, and may require an alternative means of pulling the cylinder.

The skill of thru-the-lock entry methods needs to be practiced and studied.

THRU-THE-LOCK

KEY-IN-THE-KNOB LOCK
As the name implies, the locking mechanism is part of the knob. These devices are found on
both inward and outward swinging doors. The spring latch on the majority of these locks enters
the striker approximately 1/2 inch.

FORCING THE KEY-IN-THE-KNOB LOCK - Using the Officers/A-Tool

The doorknob can be removed simply and quickly with the Officers Tool, without damaging
the stem assembly.

If the door is hollow, an axe can be placed behind the tool to give the fulcrum a substantial
base to pivot off.

After the doorknob is removed, insert the stem of the Key Tool into the slot (if present) or into
the back of the spring latch and pull or twist toward the hinge side of the door to activate the
latch.

FORCING THE KEY-IN-THE-KNOB LOCK Removing the Center of the Knob

There are some locks where the center of the knob can be removed (example, Kwikset type
lock) with a knife-like tool or slotted screw driver.

By using the Bam-Bam Tool you can pull the face of the lock to expose the stem slot inside
the knob where the correct Key Tool can be inserted.
FORCING KEY-IN-THE-KNOB LCOKS - OUTWARD SWINGING DOORS

Key-in-the-Knob locks on outward swinging

doors have a simple spring latch which can be
slipped back (opened) with a flat tool such as a
Shove Tool.

At times there is a simple device known as anti-loitering pin, which may be added to the latch.
This pin prevents the insertion of the shove tool without moving this pin first.

Pin Engaged Pin Pushed Back

TUBULAR DEAD BOLT
This is a very popular locking device. It may be single or double key activated. It is a cross
between the mortise lock, rim lock, and the key-in-the-knob lock. These locks may be recog-
nized by their position on the door and/or the shape and size of the cylinder.

These locks have become more sophisticated as the demand for greater security has increased.
They may have a hardened steel rod through the center of the locking bolt. The length of the
bolt has been increased to the point that it may take two full rotations of the key to remove
the bolt from the keeper.

The lock face is usually held in place by a hardened steel mounting. The cylinder is either too
deep or too wide, which prevents the K-Tool from being used. In order to use the Thru-the-
Lock method, the cylinder needs to be removed to enable the use of a Key Tool to trip the lock.
If the K-Tool is unable to remove the cylinder, then an alternate method of removal would be
needed in order to use this method.

If the cylinder is unable to be removed then you will have to resort to conventional forcible en-
try methods to force the lock.

The stem of the tubular deadbolt, which

retracts the locking bolt, can be various
shapes

FORCING THE TUBULAR DEAD BOLT

Remove the cylinder by pulling it out with ei-
ther the Officers/A-tool or K-tool.
Insert key tool.
Rotate to open.

Technique Tip: Place the Officers Tool at an angle to start the operation.

Note: Using the Officers Tool would be the preferred method on most of these locks due
to its ability to get a better bite behind the cylinder.

These locks may be found below the normal entry lock and door knob to prevent someone
from kicking in the lock.
FORCING THE TUBULAR DEAD BOLT

Problems Encountered When Using the K-Tool

Cylinder too deep Cylinder too wide

RIM LOCKS

These locks are usually installed as an add-on lock. They are installed on the inside surface of
the door (with the cylinder extended through the door). Only the cylinder is visible from the
outside of the door. See Section 5 for types of rim locks.

PRINCIPAL OF OPERATION RIM LOCK

The back of the rim cylinder has a stem, which is inserted into the backside of the lock. As the
key is rotated in the cylinder, the stem on the back end of the cylinder rotates the latch or bolt,
which locks or unlocks the lock.
FORCING A RIM LOCK

Using A Lock Puller (Officers Tool / K-Tool)

Set the lock puller behind the cylinder getting a secure purchase.
Pry up on the lock puller, pulling the cylinder from the door.
The back plate is either pulled through the opening or the set screws are ripped from the back
plate.
Insert correct Key Tool and turn, unlocking the lock.

Note: The cylinder is held in place by two set screws through a back plate. It is the back plate
being pulled through the cylinder hole that determines the difficulty.

Set the tool Pry up on the cylinder

Back plate pulled through Turn the key tool

Note: Once the lock cylinder has been pulled, be sure to use the proper end of the key tool.
FORCING A RIM LOCK

Lock cylinder removed Proper end of key tool

On some rim locks, a shutter may be installed over the lock mechanism. This will prevent the
insertion of a Key Tool. The lock may have to be driven off the door with the tool inserted in
the cylinder hole.

DRIVING OFF THE LOCK

Pike end Officers Tool

SPECIAL TYPE RIM LOCKS

POLICE LOCK (Vertical Bar Lock) Only on Inward opening doors

This rim lock is very popular in tenements. It utilizes a removable steel bar which it fits into a
slide in the lock and extends into a socket in the floor. The bar usually stays in the slide in the
unlocked position. Its presence is indicated by the amount of resistance met at the lock. Also,
the cylinder may not line up vertically with the other cylinder locks on the door since it does not
have a bolt "throw" like other rim locks. The lock, door and bar arrangement is that of a right
angle. It provides resistance to any forward pressure applied by someone trying to force the
door inward.

Note: If trying to open from the inside, you will have to slide the bar toward the middle of the
lock. A tool may be required to knock the bar from the keeper.

FORCING THE POLICE LOCK Using Officers Tool /

K-Tool

Recognize the lock that you are dealing with. Generally it

will not be in line with the other cylinders since it has no bolt
or latch (throw) into a keeper. The key in forcing this lock is
the recognition of the type of lock.
FORCING THE POLICE LOCK - Using Officers Tool/K-Tool
Pull the cylinder
Insert and turn the correct Key Tool. The Key Tool is turned in the same direction as the
key.

Pull the cylinder Turn the Key Tool

Note: The Key Tool is turned the same as a key. As the Key Tool is turned, the cam slides
over moving the bar out of the slot.

Conventional Forcible Entry Police Lock

If the Thru-the-Lock method does not work, you will have to resort to a conventional forcible
entry method. This may not be an easy task.

Force any and all other locks first, e.g. rim and mortise locks.
Sharply Batter the Police Lock with the Halligan Tool or axe, attempting to bounce the
bar out of the floor slot.
Conventional Forcible Entry Police Lock

Pull the knob toward you and strike the bottom panel of the door causing the bar to jump
out of the floor slot.
After removing the cylinder, drive the lock off the door with the pike of the Halligan Tool
or the Officers Tool.
As a last resort, knock the panel out of the door, but make sure there is a charged line in po-
sition.
Forcing the Hinge Side of the door. Make sure there is a charged line in position, and try to
keep the lock side open as far as possible to make it easier to force the hinge side. Force the
upper hinge first.
BARGE the door in with your shoulder to bend the bar. This will take considerable force
and should be done with at least two firefighters.

Note: The last two methods destroy the integrity of the door and a charged hose line must be in
place.

FOX LOCK (Double Bar Lock)

This rim lock is easily recognized from the outside of the door by the location of the lock cylin-
der in the center of the door. The cylinder is usually shielded by a rectangular metal plate,
which is held in place with four carriage bolts.

Two sets of carriage bolts near the outer edges of the door will indicate the location of the cra-
dles, which guide the locking bars.

The handle in the center of the lock must be pulled toward the operator to engage the clutch in-
side the lock to move the bars.
DOUBLE BAR LOCK (FOX LOCK)

Outside View

Inside View - Locked Inside View - Unlocked

Points to consider:
The rotation of the key turns a gear between the sliding steel bars. This slides the bars in and
out of the doorframe. These bars can penetrate up to two and one-half inches inside the
doorframe or into brackets mounted on the frame itself.
The position of the bolts, which guide the bars into the doorframe, will show you which
way to turn the key. Usually turning toward the lower set of bolts will unlock the device.
The most effective tool to pull the cylinder is a K-Tool. Also the ADZ of the Halligan can
be notched to catch the inside rim of the cylinder to pull the cylinder, see Section 16.
DOUBLE BAR LOCK (FOX LOCK)

The cylinder of this lock is generally recessed or flush mounted, which initially makes the K
Tool ineffective for pulling the cylinder. The door may have to be battered and dented
slightly to make a purchase. At times, by using the PIKE of the Halligan Tool, you can pry
the cylinder out.
After pulling the cylinder, and inserting the Key Tool, exert a little inward pressure on the
Key Tool. This will push the gear into the teeth of the locking device, thus engaging the
drive gear. Maintain this pressure and turn the "Key Tool" to unlock the device.
To open this device from the inside the thumb knob must be pulled toward the operator to
open the lock.

FORCING THE DOUBLE BAR LOCK (FOX LOCK)

Recognize this lock.
Shear three of the bolts holding the cylinder guard (plate) and PIVOT the plate to expose
the cylinder.
Remove the cylinder, using the K-Tool, Officers Tool, modified adz end or pike end of
Halligan.
PUSH and TURN the Key Tool (5/32-inch square stem) IN to engage the clutch, usually
toward the lower bolts holding the bar, same as a regular key.
FORCING THE DOUBLE BAR LOCK (FOX LOCK)

Prop Key Tool is the 5/32 Square

MORTISE LOCKS

These locks are designed to fit into a cavity in the edge of the door (either metal or solid wood).
They have a solid, threaded key cylinder which is held in place by two set-screws. There are
various types and styles of these locks available today.
PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION MORTISE LOCKS

As the key is rotated in the cylinder, it turns a cam on the back of the cylinder. This cam makes
contact with a lever inside the lock box removing it from the strike. Although the key will cause
the cam to make a complete revolution, the actual work of opening the bolt is usually accom-
plished between 5 and 7 oclock or 7 and 5 oclock of that revolution depending on which side
(right or left) of the door the lock is mounted.

FORCING THE MORTISE LOCK:

Set the K-Tool firmly on the cylinder and
remove the cylinder by pulling up.
Insert the correct Key Tool.
Rotate the Key Tool. If the mechanism is
found at 5 oclock, rotate toward 7
oclock, if found at 7 oclock, rotate to-
ward 5 oclock.
If mounted with a doorknob, it may have a
latch that may be connected to a second
assembly. This may necessitate a second
revolution of the cam to remove the cam
from the keeper.

Note: This second revolution may start a little

higher in the opening, e.g. 9 oclock or 3
oclock.

Note: Once the cylinder is pulled, be sure to

use the proper end of the Key Tool.

Lock Cylinder Removed Proper Key Tool

PIVOTING DEADBOLT

This is a very popular lock found on aluminum and glass panel doors with narrow stiles. It is
also found on solid glass (tempered glass) doors with the frame on the top and bottom edges
only. These locks are found most often on commercial buildings.

PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION PIVOTING DEADBOLT

These particular locks usually have a laminated bolt, which may extend up to 1-3/4 inches. The
tripping mechanism is slightly different than other mortise locks, which requires the correct
Key Tool to be used to depress the locking pin, which rotates the dead bolt. The pivoting bolt
allows forward throw to be the entire depth of the frame channel.

Pin Away Bolt Pivots Pin Forward

Door Locked Into Frame Door Unlocked

The above is a narrow stile, pivoting deadbolt showing the 1 inch laminated bolt. The locking
pin is AWAY from the leading edge of the door. The door is locked when the pin is in this di-
rection. As it is depressed the bolt pivots into the frame. When the locking pin is FOR-
WARD, the bolt is inside the frame and the door is unlocked.
FORCING THE PIVOTING DEADBOLT - Using The K-Tool

Place the K-Tool over the cylinder and set by driving down over the face of the cylinder to
lock onto the cylinder.
Pry UP with the ADZ end of the Halligan, removing the cylinder.
Using the bent end of the Key Tool, DEPRESS the pin and SLIDE the pin forward, pivot-
ing the deadbolt down into the housing.
As the locking pin slides forward, the bolt is retracted, unlocking the door.

Note: The pin will be located at either the 5 oclock or the 7 oclock position. Move the pin
from 5 oclock to 7 oclock, or from 7 oclock to 5 oclock to retract the bolt, unlocking the
door.
FORCING THE PIVOTING DEADBOLT Using The Visegrips

The cylinder may be able to be turned out of the lock by using a pair of visegrips. Since all cyl-
inder are held in place with set-screws, a quarter turn clockwise may bend the set screw just
enough to allow you to turn the cylinder counter-clockwise and remove it. After entry is accom-
plished, the cylinder may be screwed back into the lock box.

This method may work on most mortise locks.

If the cylinder guard is beveled or rotates freely, pulling the cylinder is a difficult, if not impos-
sible, task.

Note: At no time do we recommend breaking the glass in the door. The reason is safety. If it is
Plate glass, the broken pieces may be quite large and very heavy. If they are in
front of the doorway, they can become a tripping or slipping hazard. Glass and water
make for a very unsafe combination when on the ground.

If a glass piece hangs up in the frame it may become dislodged and strike a member causing a
severe cut or laceration. This is quite common since the smoke coming from the occupancy
may cover the upper portion of the doorframe obscuring any fragments left in the door.
ALTERNATE MEANS OF FORCING Using The Saw

If the occupancy has center opening double doors, take the forcible entry saw with the metal
cutting blade and cut the bolt between the doors. There is enough room between the doors be-
cause of the door swing and the space is usually covered with only weather stripping. This may
work with a single door if there is clearance for the saw to get in.

Note: some bolts have a ceramic insert making it more difficult to cut through.

ALTERNATE MEANS OF FORCING - Using the Halligan

Place the ADZ end of the Halligan between the door and the jamb, with the Halligan in line
with the cylinder and parallel to the ground. Strike the Halligan with the axe or sledge down-
ward on the ADZ end. This may snap the pin holding the bolt and pivot the bolt out of the
keeps.

This may work with both single and double doors, and there is usually play between the doors
to easily insert the ADZ end.
Section 13

Padlocks
PADLOCKS
Padlocks are detachable locking devices having a sliding and pivoting shackle that pass through
fixed or removable hardware and then made secure.

This chapter provides information and recommended procedures and tools used for forcible en-
try of padlocks. Like any fire or emergency, operational procedures and conditions on arrival
will dictate the course of action. Is it a tactical response - Fire and/or life threatening emer-
gency or is it a routine response - Non-life threatening emergency.

Padlocks are used in all types of occupancies, e.g. multiple dwellings, commercial, private
dwellings, vacant buildings and even subways and railroads.

Padlocks are used on both the exterior and interior of occupancies. They are found in the places
you least expect and you may have to force one with only the tools you carry. Therefore, mem-
bers should be able to identify the various types of padlocks and their attachment hardware and
means of installation.

For the purpose of this manual, the names of the locks used by the author are street names
and not the manufacturers product name.

CATEGORIES OF PADLOCKS

For the purpose of size-up and the understanding of padlocks, they are place in three (3) catego-
ries:
Light duty
Heavy duty
Special purpose

PADLOCK SIZE-UP
Type of padlock
Hardware and installation (attachment device)
How many padlocks and their location Shackle/Bow
Accessibility

PARTS OF A PADLOCK
Shackle or bow Body
Body; solid or laminated
Keyway

Keyway Laminated Solid

LIGHT DUTY PADLOCK

Shackle or bow is usually 1/4 inch or less

Shackle or bow is usually not case hardened
Body of lock is solid or laminated
Keyway (type may vary)

HEAVY DUTY PADLOCK

Shackle or bow is usually 1/4 inch or larger

Body of lock is solid or laminated
Made of case hardened steel
Toe and heel locking
Guarded keyway

Hockey Puck / American 2000 Series

Round padlock, American 2000 is the most com-

mon. May also be called a doughnut lock.

No exposed shackle.
Locking device fits over the staple.
Removable pin.
May be case-hardened.
SPECIAL PADLOCKS
Fasco Lock
This is a heavy-duty, surface mounted slide bolt that is locked with an American 2000 lock. The
Fasco has a built-in guard to protect the lock. It is bolted to the door with inch carriage bolts,
which makes shearing the bolts impractical. This lock is usually found on doors in maintenance
rooms in housing developments.

HORSESHOE PADLOCK
U shaped body made of brass of case hardened steel
Exposed straight traversing shackle
Guarded keyway

WRAPPED LOCK

Constructed on site and is not produced in bulk. Each unit

will vary in size and strength.
Heavy gauge steel weld to the lock
Limited access to the keyway
GATE LOCKS

These are devices made specifically for securing roll-down security gates. There are a few va-
rieties of gate locks that are becoming very popular in urban areas. Here are a few of the most
common the authors have encountered.

Bolt Lock (Medeco)

This case-hardened, tubular steel device goes through the gate and rail securing the occupancy.
When secured properly it is very effective.

Mushroom Lock
This device is secured in the bottom rail of a security gate.

Tank Lock
An extreme method of protecting the padlock. This
is made on site and is a steel housing the surrounds
the padlock
ASSOCIATED HARDWARE USED WITH PADLOCKS

Hasps
Manufactured in many different sizes and
strengths. They may be in-stalled with
screws or bolts, which may be guarded by

Slide Bolts
A device that travels in a track, which locks
into a recessed hole or hardware. Padlocks
pass through rear of bolt and are made se-
cure. These slide bolts may be made of case-
hardened steel. They are installed with
screws or carriage bolts which may be
exposed or guarded.

Note: An alternate means of forcing a slide bolt is to

place the FORK or PIKE end of the Halligan
Tool inside the shackle and twist the entire lock
to break the hardware (slide bolt) holding the
lock.
FORCING PADLOCKS - USING THE CIRCULAR SAW/K12

Use the aluminum oxide blade for cutting padlocks. This should be the primary tool to remove
padlocks, hardware, and attachment devices. It offers speed and is safer than striking tools.

Padlock with an EXPOSED shackle

Rotate the padlock to the cutting position (this
may be done with channel locks attached to a
chain)
Cut through both shackles at the same time.

Padlock with SHIELDED Shackle

This could be the American 747 series or a
wrapped lock.
Rotate the padlock; confirm that the shield
covers both front and rear of the lock.
Cut through both shields at same time.
Apply two vertical cuts through the shackle if
accessible.

Hockey Puck Lock (American 2000 Series)

Cut through the body of the padlock 3/4 up from the keyway. If lock remains engaged after be-
ing cut through, strike the side of the padlock with a sharp blow. This will usually remove the
lock. Some of the newer 2000 series have a shielded keyway which must be cut to open the
lock.
FORCING PADLOCKS - USING THE CIRCULAR SAW/K12

Note: The firefighter MUST cut 3/4 inches up from the keyway to clear the internal hasp.

Horseshoe Padlock
Cut through the body of the lock and the shackle.
At times it may be necessary to make two cuts, one at each end of the shackle.

FASCO LOCK
METHOD I - Cutting the Slide Bolt
Cut through the slide bolt.
Hold saw at an angle to cut a wedge out of the
guard.

METHOD II - Cutting the Lock

The lock can be forced by cutting the body of
the lock up from the key cylinder.
Cut the lock until the key cylinder slides out of
the body of the lock.
Remove the lock, slide the bolt.
If the key cylinder does not slide out, cut until
the lock is in two pieces. Push the pin out and
remove.
FORCING PADLOCKS - USING THE CIRCULAR SAW/K12

FASCO LOCK - Method I: Cutting the Slide Bolt

FASCO LOCK - Method I: Cutting the Lock

Note: The location and the position of the padlock may not allow the circular saw to be used.
FORCING PADLOCKS Using the Duckbill Lock Breaker and Pike of the Halligan Tool

DUCKBILL LOCK BREAKER

Place the Duckbill point between the shackle and the body of the padlock. Keep the tool in line
with the padlock. The position and location of the padlock will determine the difficulty of the
operation, e.g. padlock is too high or too low. Strike Duckbill with an axe or sledge hammer.

Members Holding the Duckbill Tool Should:

Keep both hands on the tool with a firm grip.
Keep the Duckbill tool as vertical as possible.
Keep their eyes on the tool.

Members With the Axe or Maul Should:

Position themselves where they can deliver the maximum force to lock.
Strike the Duckbill perpendicular to the head.
Start with short chopping blows until head is set into the shackle.
More powerful blows are delivered until the lock body and the shackle are separated.

Note: During this operation, firefighters should be aware that once the lock is broken, it may
become a projectile.
FORCING PADLOCKS Using the Duckbill Lock Breaker and Pike of the Halligan Tool

PIKE OF THE HALLIGAN TOOL

The PIKE of the Halligan Tool may be more effective on padlocks with short shackles.
Place the pike into the shackle opening, keeping the Halligan Tool as horizontal as possible.
Maintain pressure on the lock body.
Deliver sharp blows with a maul or axe.

FORCING PADLOCKS Using the Bolt Cutters

BOLT CUTTERS
Bolt cutters are excellent for cutting light duty pad locks, light duty chains, cable and hardware.
As a last resort they can also be used to cut heavy-duty padlocks, but when used this way, they
may damage the jaws of the bolt cutter.

If they must be used for a heavy-duty padlock:

If possible, cut the chain closest to the lock, this allows the gate to be re-secured.
Open the bolt cutter to the maximum.
Position the bolt cutter so one handle is securely against a substantial object (wall, ground,
etc.).
Push with both hands on handle to cut the hardware.

Cutting the chain Cutting the lock

Note: Most heavy duty locks have heel and toe locking, both shackles may need to be cut or
twisted to remove the lock.
FORCING PADLOCKS Using the Pipe Wrench

Secure the jaw of the wrench over the body of the

lock.
Apply force downward.

Note: This will only work on the American Series 2000 lock. This method of forcing will not
work if there is any type of shield present.

FORCING PADLOCKS Thru-the-Lock

If you are able to remove the keyway (cylinder), you might expose the lock mechanism and
possibly trip the lock using a modified Key Tool or screwdriver. Two methods that have been
used with some success are the Bam-Bam tool, which will remove the keyway, and prying off
of the guard, (protecting the keyway), allowing the cylinder to possibly drop out.

BAM-BAM TOOL
This tool requires technique, patience and hardened sheet metal self-tapping screws.

Screw the hardened sheet metal screw

into the keyway of the padlock (do not
over tighten).
Give the Bam-Bam tool a sharp
blow rearward.
Re-tighten the screw.
Strike sharp blows until the keyway is
removed.
Insert Key Tool or screw driver and
turn to unlock.
May work with limited success in a
guarded keyway.

Note: This tool will not work on Laminated padlocks.

FORCING PADLOCKS Thru-the-Lock
Hockey Puck / American 2000 Series Lock
Remove keyway (Bam-Bam tool) or pry off shield exposing keyway.
Once the keyway is removed, insert rubber tip of Key Tool (modified) into the hole where
keyway was.
Secure onto pin.
Take a quarter turn and remove the pin.
Section 14

Roll-Down Security Gates

ROLL-DOWN SECURITY GATES

Roll-down security gates are becoming quite common throughout many cities. These gates pro-
tect storefronts, factories, warehouse and residential occupancies. They are also used to secure
occupancies inside buildings, vacant buildings and roof bulkhead doors in vacant buildings.

Adjacent to the opening (window or door) two channel rails are secured to the exterior wall.
These are known as the guide rails. Above the guide rails is a drum which houses the cur-
tain (interlocking slats of metal or fiber glass). The slats ride up and down in the guide rail cov-
ering the opening. The curtain may be raised manually, mechanically (with a chain assist) or
through electricity. All roll-down gates are constructed the same, except for the opening mecha-
nism.

FIRE GROUND PROBLEMS

Designed for security, they have added to our fire ground problems by:
Delayed discovery.
Intense fire upon arrival.
Extension of fire throughout.
Very high heat and heavy smoke condition.
Potential for back draft.
Ventilation delayed and limited.
Potential for wall collapse.
Difficulty in locating the seat of the fire.
Time consumed in extended forcible entry.
Need for power saws to gain entry.
Difficulty in determining the exact entrance door, when numerous gates are present.
May block entrance to sidewalk cellar door, upper floors and FD Siamese connection.
Gates may be secured from the inside, and occupants use another exit to leave building or
worse yet, lock themselves inside.

TYPES OF GATES:

Sliding Scissor Gate.

Manual Roll-Down Gate.
Mechanical Roll-Down Gate.
- Chain Operated
- Gear Operated
Electric Roll-Down Gate.
 Manual doors are the least expensive, making them common in poorer areas or on doors
that span small openings. The roller assembly on top of this door is spring loaded and the
hood covering the roller unit will have no other assemblies attached to it. There is a handle
attached to the last slat on the door. It is hinged and will lie flat on the sidewalk. The
owner removes the locks, grasps the handle and lifts the door. So do you.

Mechanical roll-down doors are the most common installation in the United States. This
door is operated by a chain and pulley. The chain and pulley are located on one side of the
roller assembly, enclosed within an open bottom metal box. The exposed chain is pinned in
place and protected by hinged angle iron that is locked over the hanging chain with one or
two padlocks. There is no manual handle on these doors, and it can be secured with multi-
ple padlocks. The owner arrives, remove the locks from the door and the chain assembly
and pulls up the door with the chain.. Chain assemblies may be inside or hidden behind
small hatches and doors that look like part of the door framing. If there is no exposed hoist-
ing assembly, look on both sides of the door for a small hatch, force it open and operate the
chain hoist to open the door.

Electrically driven doors, the metal curtain being raised by a motor driven pulley. The
motor is enclosed in a metal box to one side of the roller assembly. Inside is the chain hoist
assembly you are unable to see from the street. The motor is controlled by a keyway set at
street level. Like the stores owner, if we remove the locks and pins and have the correct
key, we can raise the door with its motor drive. In reality, that key is never available on the
fireground. The key assembly can be pulled and its three wires exposed and all shorted to-
gether to operate the door. However, if that fails or if the power to the building has been cut
off, you must use the mechanical fail safe to get that door up. At the bottom of the motor
assembly box, you will see a small cover plate held in place by machine screws. Remove
that cover and inside are a cable or rope and a chain. One firefighter pulls on the rope or
cable. This releases the clutch on the motor assembly. A second firefighter can then oper-
ate the chain and raise the door. This type of door can be installed with the entire mecha-
nism inside the structure also.

You may find roll-down door assemblies that are constructed of rods instead of steel slats.
These are installed so that night time strollers will be able to see into the store front windows.
While the grill looks weak, it isnt. Dont make the mistake of thinking you can pry these
doors, that they are only jammed in place blocking access. Treat them as you would any solid
metal door, otherwise your entry attempt will fail and you will be forced to fight the fire from
the sidewalk.
SLIDING SCISSOR GATE

This is the oldest type of security gate. These are among the first barriers that owners put in
place to discourage vandalism and break-ins. Unlike the more common gates found today,
these gates slide horizontally in a track to open.

Construction Features

The bottom of the track usually picks up

and secures the gate in the open posi-
tion, some pivot ninety degrees to
achieve maximum opening.
These gates are commonly secured with
padlocks.
These locks will be located in the center
of the opening of the gate, or off to one
side, attached to the frame.

Forcible Entry Operations

Locate and remove all padlocks and / or other locking devices.
Slide the gate manually.
Lift the bottom track and secure in open position. If possible, rotate gate ninety degrees to
achieve maximum opening.
MANUAL ROLL-DOWN GATE

Usually found on the front of smaller occupancies. These gates can cover an entire storefront or
just a doorway.

Construction Features
Gates ride up and down a channel rail on each side of the gate.
The slats may be wider on the older gates.
The gate is attached to a winding drum.
At the top of the gate (on larger manual gates), the drum may have a spring counter-balance
to assist in the opening.
The winding drum is concealed behind sheet metal housing or inside the building wall.
These gates are secured with metal pins that pass through the channel rail and the gate.
These pins are secured to the channel rail with a padlock that attaches to a metal clip or sta-
ple welded to the channel rail.
Each gate may be secured with numerous padlocks.
The manual gate is easily recognized by the absence of a raising mechanism housing on the
side of the winding drum (top of the gate).
Lifting handles are usually attached to the bottom rail of the gate.
Slide bolts may be attached to bottom rail and may be secured into the channel rail with a
padlock.
The curtain may be constructed of:
- Inter-locked, solid sheet metal slats (18-22 gauge steel)
- Open grill metal bars, connected with metal tabs.
- Fiber glass.
MANUAL ROLL-DOWN GATE
Forcible Entry Operations
Locate and remove all padlocks and/or other locking devices.
Pull (slide) all metal pins and slide bolts out.
- Most padlock points will have removable pins.
- Bottom rail usually has a slide bolt to disengage.
Raise gate with the life handle or by the bottom bar.

MANUAL ROLL-DOWN GATE

Forcible Entry Operations

Locate and remove all padlocks and/or other locking devices.
Pull (slide) all metal pins and slide bolts out.
- Most of the padlock points will have a removable pin.
- Bottom rail usually has a slide bolt to disengage.
Raise gate with lift handle or bottom bar.

MECHANICAL ROLL-DOWN GATE (CHAIN HOIST)

All of the same features as the manual gate. These types of gates are generally found on wider
openings.

Construction Features
Gates ride up and down a channel rail on each side of the gate.
The slats will be narrower, span a wider opening.
On gates mounted on exterior walls of buildings, the chain hangs from a narrow metal hous-
ing attached to the side of the winding drum housing. The chain is secured behind a hinged
piece of angle iron. The chain is attack to a hold-down device such a s bolt to prevent pull-
ing the chain out from the top of the angle iron. The angle iron is secured to the channel rail
with one of more padlocks.
On gates mounted with the winding drum concealed in the building wall, the chain will not
be visible. The chain will be secured in a small access panel on the building wall adjacent to
the channel rail. A key operated latch type lock will secure the access panel.
The hoisting chain is secured behind a piece of angle iron and usually secured with pad-
locks.
Each gate may be secured with numerous padlocks and slide bolts similar to the manual
gates.
The gate is usually larger, hence heavier.
MECHANICAL ROLL-DOWN GATE (CHAIN HOIST)

Forcible Entry Operations

Locate and remove all padlocks and/or other locking devices.
Pull (slide) all metal pins and slide bolts out.
Free the chain hoist from its hold-down device and raise the gate with the chain.
- The angle iron covering the chain hoist is usually hinged and has to be pivoted out and
away from the rail to access the chain hoist.
- If the angle iron is not hinged you may have to it pry open to access the chain.
If the gate cannot be raised with the chain hoist assemblies, cut the chain near the top and
raise it manually.

Different style housings for the pull chain

MECHANICAL ROLL-DOWN GATE (GEAR OPERATED)

All of the same features as the manual gate, this is another version of a mechanical gate. The
difference in this gate is in how it is raised. The size of the opening is not necessarily an indica-
tion if this version of mechanical gate is present.

Construction Features
Same construction features as the other gates.
These gates are raised by turning a gear
assembly with a crank handle.
The gear assembly will be located at the top
of the hoisting drum, in the same area as the chain
hoist version.
This version of mechanical gate will be able to be
determined by what appears to be an eye bolt visible
at the bottom of the housing assembly, off to one side.

Forcible Entry Operations

If the crank handle is not readily available, or housed in the side rail assembly, similar to the
chain, cut the gate.

ELECTRIC ROLLDOWN GATE

Same basic features as the other types of gates with the exception that it is operated electrically.
It can be found in any occupancy, but usually is found on occupancies with large openings such
as department stores and commercial buildings.

One gate may be used to cover multiple levels of an occupancy.

Construction Features
Similar to mechanical roll-down but are usually recognized by a large metal motor housing
adjacent to the winding drum.
There may be a key switch located on the building wall on either side of the gate. This
switch may also be located in a remote location inside the building. This key switch panel
may contain a stop button; others stop with the switch in the center position of the key
switch.
All electrical operated gates are equipped with an auxiliary chain hoist to be used in case of
a power failure. This chain will be located in the motor housing and may not be visible from
the outside.
Either a bottom hatch or a front panel, which is secured with sheet metal screws, may access
this chain hoist.
The chain hoist assembly may have a clutch cable or chain that must be pulled first to en-
gage the assembly to open the gate. This electrical gate has now been converted to a me-
chanical one.
ELECTRIC ROLL-DOWN GATE
These gates may also be secured with padlocks, pins and slide bolts similar to manual and
mechanical gates.

Forcible Entry Operations

Locate and remove all padlocks and/or other locking devices.
If power is ON, operate the electric switch to open the gate.
- This may be possible in the early stages of the fire.
Pull the cover off the box to expose the control lever on the back of the switch.
- Even when the screws are removed, the inner plate must be pried off.

Note: This box may have to be broken to gain access.

These methods of gaining entry may only work if there is not a large fire or high heat behind
the gates. Once the gate is exposed to high temperatures it may begin to distort and jam as it
rides up the winding drum.
ELECTRIC ROLL-DOWN GATE

There is no one, simple method of gaining entry through these obstacles. Each operation has to
be treated accordingly. Size-up and the correct tools will dictate the method of entry.

OPEN-GRILL OR DESIGNER GATE (Variation of a Roll-Down Gate)

Same basic design as the other types of roll-down gates. The variation is that sections of the
gate, either all or partial, are constructed of small, tubular pieces of metal or metal bars, con-
nected with metal tabs. This type of gate is open so that you may see what is behind it.
.
This type of gate is generally used where high security is not vital or where the owner wants the
public to view the display and also provide some security.

Construction Features
All the same construction features of the other style gates.
The curtain may be all or partial of a grid like design.
Operation of gate will be the same as any other. It can be manually, mechanically or electri-
cally operated.
OPEN-GRILL OR DESIGNER GATE
Construction Features
Each gate may be secured with numerous
padlocks.
Slide bolts may be present at the bottom.

Forcible Entry Operations

Locate and remove all padlocks and /or
other locking devices.
Pull (slide) all metal pins and slide bolts
out.
Operate gate based on the type of design,
either manual, mechanical or electric.

LOCKING DEVICES FOUND ON ROLL-DOWN GATES

There are many ways to secure these gates. Having some knowledge as to how the locking de-
vices are installed will aid you in removing them.

Generally there is some kind of opening made into the channel rail and the curtain. Through
this opening a pin may be inserted which prevents the curtain from moving up.
There could also be an eye buried into the sidewalk to secure the bottom rail.
LOCKING DEVICES FOUND ON ROLL-DOWN GATES

Steps for removal

Cut or open padlock and remove.
Remove the pin.
Raise the gate.

GATE LOCK (BOLT LOCK)

Another popular device for securing roll-down gates, fire doors, counter doors ad shutters.

Features
No hasps
No shackle
No pin
Resists cutting and
drilling
Pick proof
GATE BOLT (BOLT LOCK)

FORCIBLE ENTRY

Go to the weakest point of this lock, which is the brass pin which rotates the cam. One
way to force this device is to apply pressure outward and try to snap the brass pin.

Note: With many of these locks being shielded

with steel, another method would be to try and
cit the body of the lock on an angle between the
rail and the door.

EXTERNAL SHIELDS
Most any type of padlock can be found with an external shield. They are used to protect the
padlock and to make forcible entry more difficult.

Types of Shielding For Padlocks

Wrapped shield welded to padlock.
Fixed shield to padlock attachment point.
Removable shield.
Welded box.
EXTERNAL SHIELDS

Forcible Entry Operations

Utilizing a circular saw/K12, cut through the shield and lock
Cut the gate
ROLL DOWN-DOOR SIZE UP PRIOR TO CUTTING

Forcing entry into a roll-down door is never easy. The techniques you can use have varying
degrees of success depending on your size-up of the door, its lock, its operations, the time you
have, fire conditions, and the potential life hazards.

It is important to remember, that if locks are visible from the exterior of the door, the quickest
method is to cut the locks. If there are no locks visible or they are multiple and/or highly se-
cured locks, cutting the door may be in option.

It is also important to remember, most roll-down doors have man-doors next to them, the
quickest way to open multiple roll-down doors is to make access through the man-door
and manually roll up the roll-down doors. This is not only quick, but it provides for cus-
tomer service.

The effective way to get through a roll-down metal door is to cut the door open with a saw.
You should cut the door under the following conditions. If the life exposure above the fire indi-
cates that a protective stream is needed immediately to prevent auto exposure, to get portable
ladders to victims, or to protect firefighters searching above the fire, cut the door. If the door is
deformed by explosion or warped by heat, it wont be able to be operated even if you have the
keys to the locks. Cut the door. If there are too many padlocks, if they are too strong, or if they
inaccessible to attack, cut the door. If the door is operated from the inside, you must be able to
get there quickly and safely. When getting to that position is impossible due to fire or other
threat, cut the door.

An effective door size-up technique Look at the guides. At night, a

is to push on the door and consider flashlight can be used to get a good
the resistance that the door may look at any evidence that the slats
have. are locked together.
CUTTING THE ROLL-DOWN CURTAIN

There are many ways to cut roll-down doors to gain access. The following cuts are the most
common that are both quick and effective.

It is important during the size-up to determine which cut will be made.

TRIANGULAR CUT

A triangular cut is one option to cut a roll up door. It is

quick and dependable, but requires the operator to be able to
operate to support the weight of the saw. The cut allows
entry teams to make quick access, but must be opened up
bigger by pulling the slate in case a quick egress is need.

Note: Do not cross cuts at the top until the second cut is complete and the door is ready to be
opened.
CUTTING THE ROLL-DOWN DOOR

TRIANGULAR CUT

Making the means of egress large

After entry is gained, the roll up door slats in the triangle cut can be removed. This will cause
the door above where the slats have been pulled to go up. The slats can be grabbed with chan-
nel locks or insert the PIKE into the metal and pull the slat out.

Drive the pike of the Halligan or grab the slat with channel locks to remove the metal slats.

CENTER CUT (Roll-Down door WITHOUT windlock)

The rolling steel door is constructed of interlocking slats. Because of this construction, entry
revolves around sliding the interlocking slats apart. The most efficient method is by cutting a
single vertical cut down the center of the door and then pulling the slats.

Most rolling steel doors are constructed with a guide on every other slat. Slats without guides
are easily pulled free. However, some doors have guides on every slat. Slides with guides can-
not be pulled free.

Make a cut down the center Continue down the door until the After the slats are
of the door starting at about bottom of the door is reached. pulled free, all the slats
head height. below will fall, and the
door will roll up
INVERTED L (Roll-Down door WITH windlock)
Some larger spanning doors have a device called a windlock that is essentially a metal bar
that travels down all the guides. This prevents firefighters from being able to pull the slats out.
When this occurs, a Box Cute/Barn Door Cut needs to be completed.

In this situation, the door must be cut from around the guides and pulled open.

INVERTED L: Method 1: This cut sequence is conducted when the original

operation calls for a Box/Barn Door Cut.

1 5

4
CUT SEQUENCE

1 1st cut horizontal just above head level, going 2/3 the width of the door.
2 2nd cut starts 6 inches below the 1st and goes down towards the rail. (do not overlap to pre-
vent the door from falling in prematurely.
3 3rd cut angles from the 2nd towards the inside of where the opening will be (this will allow
saw to penetrate deep enough to cut the angle iron at the bottom of the door.)
4 4th cut goes through the angle iron utilizing the triangle created with cuts 2 and 3.
5 5th cut connects 1 and 2, completing the cut.
INVERTED L (Roll-Down door WITH windlock)

INVERTED L: Method 2: This cut sequence is to complete a box/barn door cut when the
operation began with an unsuccessful attempt with the center cut.

2 5

CUT SEQUENCE

1 1st cut down the middle in attempt to do a center cut and pull the slats.
2 2nd cut starts just above head level and stop about 6 inches from the first cut.
3 3rd cut angles from the 2nd towards the inside of where the opening will be (this will allow
saw to penetrate deep enough to cut the angle iron at the bottom of the door.)
4 4th cut goes through the angle iron utilizing the triangle created with cuts 2 and 3.
5 5th cut connects 1 and 2, completing the cut.
OPEN-GRILLE OR DESIGNER GATE
These doors are commonly found in malls securing the individual stores. These doors may be
manual or mechanically lifted. If the door is manually lifted, the firefighter may cut a section
out large enough to fit their hand in and unlock the door. If the door is mechanically lifted, a
variation of the Inverted L cut could be utilized.

MANUALLY LIFTED GATE

Exterior view: small section can be cut out above Interior view: The firefighter will have to
the lock so the firefighter can reach in to unlock first unlock the bolt, then unlatch the gate to
and unlatch lift.

MECHANICALLY LIFTED GATE

The firefighter can use the same cut sequence as an Inverted L cut. It may help to have
another firefighter keep pressure on the gate to keep it from moving.
SHEET CURTAIN DOORS
Sheet curtain doors look similar to rolling steel doors, but they are constructed of thin steel pan-
els instead of steel interlocking slats. The panels are joined together to form a continuous panel
which operates by rolling around a spring loaded, manually or mechanically operated drum at
the top of the door. This type of door can be forced by using the Inverted L.
GARAGE DOORS/RESIDENTIAL SECTIONAL DOOR

Sectional doors are comprised of steel or wood sections that are hinged to each other and open
and close by traveling vertically and horizontally in tracks mounted in the door jamb and in
tracks mounted in the ceiling. This type of door can be forced by using Inverted L tech-
nique. Usually, there is metal bracing on the back of the door that is difficult to reach with the
depth of cut of the circular. Also, each section has hinges that should be avoided. The hinges
are located between sections; therefore cut through the middle of a section (the field), not in
between sections.

The following methods demonstrate different ways to force entry into a garage door. It is im-
portant during initial size-up to determine which method will best support the fire attack, while
providing customer service.
Method 1: This method is simple and creates little or no damage to the garage door being
opened. It requires that the garage has a garage to opener installed with a release latch. Not
only does this method create minimal damage, it enable the firefighters to easily secure the ga-
rage door once the incident is over. This method can be achieved with the basic lock-out kits
that we carry (Slim Jim and/or Big Easy kit).

The latch release is located A wedge and/or inflatable bag create a

through the window gap between the door and jamb

The rod or Slim Jim is inserted to the The rod or Slim Jim is hooked on the
gap release latch and pulled downward

The garage door is lifted into the open position.

ALTERNATES TO METHOD 1
If unable to utilize the lock-out kit to create a gap in the door, the following are additional ways
the latch release can be pulled with still creating minimal damage to the door and being able to
secure the door once with incident is over.

The window closest to the latch can be broken and the

firefighter can easily reach in and pull the latch release.

Once the door has been confirmed having a

door opener (key pad on the outside), a hole
can be made in the middle of the door. If the
pick head is used, a rod can be inserted. A cir-
cular saw may also be use cutting a small trian-
gle, large enough for the firefighter to reach
their arm into.

Note: The firefighter must know the condition of the garage before reaching in and pulling
METHOD 2: INVERTED L

Determine what condition is behind the Start the horizontal cut just above head level
door. cutting between the panel to avoid the
hinges.

Create a triangle so the saw can cut through

the angle iron at the bottom of the door.
Make a downward cut about 6 below the
horizontal cut to prevent to door from fal-
ling until the firefighter is ready.

Note: The final cut should be where cut 1 and cut 2 meet. This allows the firefighter to control
at what point the door opens.
GARAGE DOORS/RESIDENTIAL TILT-UP DOOR
Tilt-up doors are single piece doors constructed of wood or thin metal and hinged at the middle
to swing up and down. This type of door can be forced by using the Inverted L cutting tech-
nique, but try the lock first. Similar to the sectional door, this door has metal bracing on the
back of the door that is difficult to reach with the depth of cut of the circular saw.

If the springs or hinges on an overhead door have been exposed to heat or fire, they may be
weakened to the point of being incapable of supporting a door. In such a case, the door must be
supported in the open position with a pike pole, vice grips or similar tool. Cutting a door com-
pletely out of the way is a viable option if supporting the door is difficult to do safely.
AIRPLANE HANGAR DOORS
Airplane hangar doors usually cover a large span opening and can be framed with heavy gauge
metal and skinned with a thinner gauged insulated metal. This section will cover the most com-
mon hangar doors that will be found in the Valley. The following are the types of airplane han-
gar doors that are most commonly found:

Bi-fold
Sliding
- Mechanical
- Manual

BI-FOLD HANGAR DOORS

This is the most common hangar door is use. It is framed of thick tubular steel and skinned
with light gauge metal that is usually insulated. The door is lifted utilizing anywhere from one
to multiple motors depending on the size of the door. Newer doors are lifted with straps while
older doors use approximately 1/4 inch metal wire.

These doors MUST BE OPENED USING THE MOTORS and many airports have back up
generators to lift these doors in case of a power outage.

It is imperative to know that these doors will close VIOLENTLY if the strap or wires holding
the door up fail.

If a fire is involved in a hangar with the Bi-Fold in the open position, EXTREME CAUTION
must be utilized when operating in the structure.

Most aircraft hangars are constructed of light gauge metal that is not safe to operate on the roof
of. The ladder companys best bet for ventilation is through these large doors. IF POSSIBLE
AND COORDINATED WITH COMMAND, DOORS SHOULD BE MECHANICALLY
OPENED PRIOR TO SECURING UTILITIES.
HANGAR DOORS

Many hangars today also have offices in the back of the hangar. The back of the hangar may
even be two stories and require a search and rescue. The quickest, most efficient way to gain
access to a hangar is through a side door. Doors are located inside of the hangar door or in
close vicinity.

Multiple doors built into the bi-fold hangar doors.

Side door next to the hangar door

Offices both upstairs and downstairs inside the hangar.

COMPONENTS OF A BI-FOLD HANGAR DOOR

NEWER DOOR OLDER DOOR

Motor mounted on the lower portion of the Motor mounted to the upper portion of
door. the door.

Motor turns a spindle the wraps the strap Motor turns a spool causing the
causing the door to lower and raise. wire to pull up or down on the
lower portion of the door.

Automatic lock mounted high on the door Manual lock located about chest level

Heavy gauge metal steel frame grid Heavy gauge metal steel frame grid
SLIDING HANGAR DOOR: MECHANICAL
It is common to find large sliding hangar doors that run off of a motor system. Although these
doors are easiest to open while the power is on, when the power is off, these doors will be able
to be opened manually.

These doors come in a variety of size and may open from one end, or from the middle. They
slide in guides on the ground that are staggered at different distances that allow the door to stow
away in a smaller area in the hangar.
MANUALLY OPENING A SLIDING HANGAR DOOR

Shut off the power to the motor,

this will release the motor lock.

Push one section of the

door starting with the
door closest to the inside
of the hangar.
MANUAL SLIDING HANGAR DOORS
Manual sliding doors are house smaller aircraft and are reasonably easy to force open. They are
most commonly found to slide from side to side, but also may be found accordion style. They
are generally locked from the outside with padlocks. Once the locking mechanism is opened,
the door can be opened manually with ease.

Force the padlocks and

slide the doors open.

If locks are high security, the tabs that hold the

lock in place may be cut.

Accordion style door may have padlocks or a keyway from

the outside. Normal thru-the-lock entry methods may be
utilized.
ADDITIONAL TYPES OF LOCKS AND WAYS TO SECURE AND PROTECT
Section 15

Miscellaneous Security Problems

MISCELLANIOUS SECURITY PROBLEMS

WINDOW BARS

As a rule, bars are fixed and permanent. Gates are designed to open, but may be fixed.

Window Bars
These obstacles come in a variety of sizes, shapes and strengths. They may be mounted to the
window frame with screws or bolts, or set into the mortar. Bars and gates are used primarily for
security and leave very little room for error in the case of fire.

Attacking and removing these obstacles during a fire situation takes time. If fire is being vented
through the window being worked on, it becomes more of a challenge. Anyone trapped behind
them has little chance of survival.

Forcing Window Bars

Bars are usually secured to a window at four points. The mounting point may be a lag bolt into
the mortar or brick, or the mounting point may be part of the brickwork.
WINDOW BARS

Forcing Window Bars

Bars are attacked at the weakest point. Striking the mortar or brick work where the bar is
mounted, may dislodge the anchor point. Dislodge two and bend the bars away, or pry out using
the Halligan.

Using a Halligan, the firefighter may

be able to pry the bar away from its
mount.

Using a power saw, cut the mounting

bracket and remove the entire bar as-
sembly, or cut two sides and bend the
bars away.
WINDOW BARS

Forcing Window Bars

Place the hydraulic tool between the angle iron outer edge of the window bar and the exterior of
the building, as close as possible to the lag bolt, and spread.

If the spread is not sufficient, the tool can be repositioned directly at the point of attachment.

After forcing the attachment points on one

side, push the gate to the side (while still at-
tached with a hook), allowing an unob-
structed opening. Pushing the gate to the side
still attached will cause the gate to break
free, dropping it to the ground. Keep this
area clear to prevent any one from getting hit
by the falling gate.

Note: Start this operation from the bottom

and work up to stay out of the path of the
gate if it should fall.

Window Bars: Various Types and Mountain

WINDOW BARS

Window Bars: Various Type and Mountings

WINDOW GATES

Gates come in a variety of types. They vary in size and strength. From the Scissor type to the
more formidable Jail-House type gates.

Gates are usually attacked at the hinge side, since the swing side is usually secured with a pad-
lock. Using the Halligan Tool, the frame of the gate is pulled away from the window frame. The
window gate is usually held in place with screws.

In doing this, the window must be broken. This will complicate the action because we have
vented the area we want to access. In gaining access, the entire gate should be removed, as
well as the window sash and any window decorations (curtains, verticals, etc.).

Note: When entering via a window with a gate, you have to ensure your way out. Other
windows may be similarly fortified.
WINDOW GATES

Approved Type Window Gate

Most people are very concerned about their security and will use any method it takes to guaran-
tee it.

In many municipalities, approved gates may be used. This is to eliminate the need for padlocks
or other entrapment devices. These approved gates usually have a locking device that is in the
form of a lever enclosed behind a small door, thereby eliminating the need for a padlock.

There is no one way to remove these obstacles. Like everything else in fighting fires, you
have to take what is given you and make the best of it.

Forcing Approved Type Window Gates

The following are suggested methods:

Using the FORK end to pry the hinge away

from the frame. You will get more leverage
this way, but you may be restricted
due to a fire escape.
WINDOW GATES

Forcing Approved Type Window Gates

Use the ADZ end, if there is no Pry off the hinge using the
room, use the FORK end FORK end.

Swing Bar Gate (Jail-House Type)

This type of gate is more formidable as it is made of heavy gauge iron bars.

The locking devices are part of the problem as this is not an approved type gate. There is no
way to prepare yourself for what may be securing these devices.
WINDOW GATES

Forcing Swing Bar Gate

IRON GATES

Usually found at the main entrance. They are mounted like a standard door with hinges on one
side and a lock on the other. What makes them formidable is the inability to spread the jamb.
They are generally mounted in a metal frame.

If used on a secondary entrance, they are usually more fortified than a simple locking device.

Attacking the lock side in a conventional manner is usually sufficient to gain entry.
LIGHTWEIGHT SECURITY SCREEN DOORS

These doors are found on the residences to protect the front door. They are mounted on the out-
side of the door with hex bolts or carriage bolts. The locks are usually made of a deadbolt and
may have a standard deadbolt latch or be double keyed. These doors can easily be overcome by
several simple techniques.

The screen mesh can be hit with an

axe or a sledge. Once the screen
separates from the door, the fire-
fighter can reach in and unlatch the
deadbolt and knob.

With the ADZ end of the Halligan, the

frame can be pried away from the house
where the bolts are lagged in. PHOTOS
The lock complete locking assembly can
be cut out. It is important to note that the
cuts should be made ABOVE the plate
TO
metal and only cut though the bars and
the frame. This will save time.

BE
With the ADZ end of the Halligan, go
above the deadbolt and move the Halligan
downward to force the bolt out of the hous-
ing in the frame.
PLACED
Use the circular saw to cut through the
deadbolt at a 45 degree angle. HERE
CHILD GUARD GATES

Child guard gates come in a variety of weights and sizes. There usually are three to four hori-
zontal bars, which inter-lock and slide to the prescribed opening. The device is secured across
the lower sash of the window to prevent children from falling out.

They are usually secured on the outside of the sash to the window frame. They can also be
mounted to the inside of the window.

In most cases, screws are used to secure them.

Removing Child Guard Gates

Removing them under non-fire situations is
usually not a problem. Striking the vertical
frame away from the mounting screw will
generally be sufficient. In a fire situation, with
heat and possible flames, the member may not
be able to stand up and swing the tool.

If the gate is larger than the window it was de-

signed for, the vertical frames will be too close
to the side of the window frame, preventing
placement of the prying tool.
CHILD GUARD GATES

Removing Child Guard Gates

Metal frame windows will be more difficult to

force than wood frame windows. Another method
of forcing them open would be to strike the hori-
zontal bar where it joins the upright that is screwed
into the frame.

Cutting the horizontal bars is another option, but

that calls for a different tool such as a power saw
or reciprocating saw. Bolt cutters may not work.
WINDOW/DOOR BARRIERS

HUD WINDOWS/DOORS

When buildings and occupancies become vacant, the owner will secure the premises with barri-
ers to prevent vandalism and trespassing. These barriers need to be removed when firefighters
are interior.

One or two sheets of plywood over a window opening secured with two or four, 2 x 4s. The
2x4s are wider than the window opening and hold the plywood in place. One or two bolts go
through the 2x4s and secure the plywood in place.
Forcing A HUD Window

To remove this obstacle, using the PIKE of the Halligan Tool or a SLEDGE HAMMER strike
and split the 2x4 at the bolt. Splitting one side and rotating the other is usually sufficient. This
would have to be done to both of the 2x4s.

Another method to remove these barriers is to use the circular saw. In this method, the bolt
head would be cut at an angle. Once the bolt heads are removed, you can drive the bolt
through and remove the barrier.
BULKHEAD DOORS
Security of bulkhead doors can vary. Some may be quite formidable and others may be secured
by a simple locking device (sliding bolt or hook and eye). The simple device is usually not a
problem. It is important to open this door because victims may attempt to flee the fire by going
up to the roof.
Section 16

Tips and Techniques

TIPS

Halligan Tool

Marking the Halligan Tool for judging depth of the door when setting the tool.

Mark the adz and the fork with a notch approximately 1 inches up from the end to denote the
depth of the door. When trying to lock the tool in, this will give you assurance that you are in
deep enough.

Squaring the Shoulder

By squaring the shoulder of the fork end, it allows another striking surface in tight spaces and
when the tool is recessed.
TIPS

Notching the Adz

This may give you the option of pulling a cylinder, getting a lock on, or shearing a bolt or
screw. The edge is filed to a clean edge.
Section 17

Definitions
A Tool A lock puller (Officers Tool).

Adz The axe-like tool with a curved blade at right angle to the handle
(shaft).

Arch The inside curve on the fork end of the Halligan Tool where the two
blades of the fork are joined.

Bam-Bam Tool A dent puller adapted for pulling lock cylinders.

Batter the Door Striking the door, doorframe, with an axe, maul or Halligan Tool.

Bevel Side The curved side of the fork end of the Halligan Tool.

Bolt A fastening device that is square or round that slides into a notch
(keeper).

Chocking the Door A means of keeping a door open.

Claw Tool A forcible entry tool.

Cylinder Guard A metal security plate mounted over the lock cylinder.

Door Flexes Door bends but does not break or open.

Door Frame A structural boarder into which a door is hung, also known as a doorbuck
or doorjamb.

Door Rail The outer edge of a door, usually the strongest part of the door.

Door Stop That portion of the doorframe that prevents the door from winging past
the frame.

Doughnut Lock American 2000 series lock Hockey Puck.

Duckbill Breaker A tool designed for forcing padlocks.

Fasco Lock American 2000 series lock used for securing maintenance rooms in
public housing developments.
Fox Lock A double bar lock.

Gap the Door The initial opening made in the door and or frame to create a purchase
point.

Glass Door A tempered glass door.

Guarded Keyway A device over the keyway to prevent the keyway from being removed.

Halligan Tool Forcible entry tool.

Hockey Puck American 2000 series lock Horseshoe Padlock type of heavy-duty lock.

HUD Window/Door A method of securing an opening with plywood and 2 x 4s horizontal

to the opening securing the plywood.

Hydra-Ram A hydraulic forcible entry tool.

Inward Swinging Door swings AWAY from you.

Irons Set of forcible entry tools, usually an axe and Halligan Tool.

Jimmying a Door Separating (spreading) of the door away from the jamb.

K-Tool A tool designed for pulling lock cylinders.

Kalameine Door A door covered with metal.

Kelly Tool A forcible entry tool.

Key Tool A set of tools used in conjunction with K-Tool to open locks.

Latch A fastening device that is angled to slide into a notch (keeper).

Lock In Getting the Halligan Tool or lock puller tool behind the doorframe.

Lock Puller A tool designed to pull lock cylinders.

Mortise Lock A locking device that is designed to fit into the cavity in the edge of

the door.

Multi-Lock Door A door with an integrated lock system which has four pins locking the
door into the jamb at four different points.

Officers Tool Lock puller or A tool.

Outward Swinging Door swings TOWARD you.

Pivoting Deadbolt A fastening device that is square and pivots into a notch (keeper).

Pocket Door An interior sliding door that slides into a partition or cavity in the wall.
Police Lock A vertical bar lock.

Purchase Point The opening made in the door / door frame for forcing the door.

Rabbit Tool A hydraulic forcible entry tool.

Rail of the Door The outer edge of a door, usually the strongest part of the door.

Replacement Door A pre-hung door and jamb installed into an EXISTING frame

Rim Lock A surface mounted lock.

Set the Tool Driving the Halligan Tool into the GAP until the arch of the fork is
even with the door and or the door stop.

Shoulder The topside of the fork end at the shaft.

Slipping the Door Moving the Halligan Tool up and down to free the tool that may be
stuck.

Springing the Door Moving the Halligan Tool side to side (in and out) to free the tool that
may be stuck.

Stacked Locks A series of locks placed close together on a door.

Static Bar A fastening device which can be mounted across the door.

Stem On a rim lock, that portion of the lock cylinder that locks or unlocks
the mechanism.

Thru-the-Lock Gaining entry by attacking the locking device and opening the door
with little or no damage to the door and or frame.

Tubular Dead Bolt A cylinder lock that is a cross between a mortise lock, rim lock and a
Key-in-the-Knob lock. May be double-keyed.

Wrapped Lock Padlock with steel welded to the lock