Fold 2

Best for relaxing

Benaulim
Much of the accommodation is
in family guesthouses in this
peaceful village in southern Goa,
which gives on to a long stretch of
largely empty beach. Benaulim is
the location for the very plush Taj
Arambols Kalacha Exotica hotel, set in 56 acres of
Beach is backed by a tranquil gardens, with a Jiva spa
sweetwater lake offering traditional Indian holistic
treatments by qualified Ayurveda
MINI GUIDE doctors and therapists (tajhotels. West-facing beaches such as
Arambol enjoy beautiful sunsets
com; rooms from 180).

Coastal POLEM
Goas southernmost beach is set
ARAMBOL
This former 1960s hangout still

Goa
around a small bay by the village has a laidback traveller vibe, with
of Polem. Its a wonderfully a curved beach thats great for
isolated and distraction-free area swimming. Best of all is the
thats escaped development so Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre
The swaying palms, white sands and warm theres little else to do but stroll by the sand dunes. In the winter
the seashore, have a picnic on the months its the base of the
waters of this Indian state justifiably draw sand and enjoy the sound of the Iyengar yoga school, offering
plenty of visitors, but on its less-beaten waves. Fishermen return to shore five-day courses in hatha vida
at the northern end of the beach; as well as shorter courses
paths youll discover an altogether different enjoy their catches for lunch combining yoga with ayurvedic
side to Goan life. among the palms at the Kamaxi
shack bar (00 91 934 136 7429;
treatments (hiyogacentre.com;
Arambol Beach; open mid-Nov
NovMay; fish curry 1.80). mid-Mar; five-day courses 35).

Best for food Best for local culture Fold 1

PANAJI OLD GOA
Slung along the banks of the On the banks of the Mandovi
Mandovi River, the easy-going River in northern Goa lies the old
state capital is the base for Rome of the East the former
Holiday on the Menu, which principal city of Portugals eastern
offers a range of Goan cooking empire. A handful of its imposing
holidays. Try a morning session churches and convents remain
and learn the art of creating a from its glory days, the highlight
sofiani biryani and a Goan fish of which is the S Cathedral
curry, or sign up for a full-week Asias biggest church. Visit on a
programme, with a trip to a spice weekday morning, when you can
plantation (holidayonthemenu. Fresh ingredients laid out in the join locals in attending Mass and Old Goa was largely abandoned
market in Goas capital Panaji in the late 18th century
com; morning courses from 60). explore the cathedral.

CALANGUTE SIOLIM Anjuna DIVAR ISLAND

Former hippy hangout Calangute This village is often overlooked by Wednesdays flea market is as Ferries leave from Old Goa to this
arguably provides the greatest travellers, due to its riverside much a part of the Goan beautiful riverine island, which
Tear out page here then fold along dotted lines

concentration of dining options location some way from the experience as a day on a deserted feels like a land that time forgot.
in Goa, with everything from nearest beach. It makes for a beach. The market sprawls on and Piedade is the largest settlement,
stalls selling bhelpuri a Mumbai pleasant stay if youre seeking a on, hawking so many mirrored filled with old Portuguese palaces
snack of puffed rice and mango break from the sea and sand, and bedspreads and floaty Indian- and ladies gossiping at the
to restaurants dishing up bhindi is home to a daily fish market near cotton dresses thatll you never roadside. In January, the men
jaipuri (crispy fried okra). Try the the ferry landing on the banks of want to see one again. Its a great who have left the island to work
main beach strip, which is thick the Chapora River. Tours of the place for people watching, and if elsewhere return for the Festa das
with vendors serving breakfast market are available as part of you trawl carefully you can find Bandeiras, or Flag Festival, taking
favourite pav bhaji (a buttery classes operated by the Siolim some interesting one-offs. to the streets for singing, dancing
bread roll dipped in curry). The Cooking School, which offer an Bargain hard and take plenty of and, bizarrely, firing peashooters
market area is filled with local insight into Goan culture and stamina and patience. at one another.
chai and thali joints that do veg faith (cookingclassesgoa.com;
lunches (thalis around 45p). Siolim-Assagao Rd; classes 20). Turn over for map and number locations

January 2013 Lonely Planet Traveller 123

 mini guide
Coastal Goa
Shopping Sights & Activities Eating Where to stay

Goan essentials The know-how

TRANSPORT CAUSES FOR CELEBRATION
Dabolim in central Goa has the Goa plays host to religious and Top Tip
In non-Western restaurants

Compiled by Jason Riley, with contributions from Amelia Thomas. photographs: yoko aziz/superstock, paul
states only airport, with charter cultural events all year round:

bigland/getty images, franco cogoli/sime/4corners, dennis cox/alamy, simon reddy/alamy, shutterstock

flights (mostly November to in Goa, eat only with your
Reis Magos Festival
March) departing from London The journey of the three wise right hand; the left is
and Manchester (from 560; men to Bethlehem is re- considered unclean and for
the purposes of ablution
thomson.co.uk). Alternatively, enacted every 6 January.
only. If youre invited to dine
travel to Mumbai (from 540; Shigmotsav (Shigmo)
with a family, always take
virgin-atlantic.com), and fly on to Spring is ushered in around
off your shoes and wash
Goa with domestic airlines such March with parades and
your hands before eating.
as GoAir and Indigo (from 65; revellers flinging huge
goair.in). Goa is ideal for cycling: Panjim Peoples is typical of Goas quantities of water and
Portuguese colonial architecture
rent or buy a good-quality bike coloured tikka powder at one Further reading
(rentals from 90p, second-hand another (pictured below). Lonely Planets Goa &
cycles 11). It also has a bus Within an atmospheric Feast of St Anthony Mumbai (13.99) contains
network serving most towns and 19th-century mansion, Panjim On 13 June, if the monsoon has everything you could
villages (singles from 25p). Peoples has elegant rooms with yet to appear, Goan families possibly wish to know about
mosaic-covered bathrooms, deep will lower a statue of the saint the state. Individual
Where to stay bath tubs, and lots of antiques. into their well to bring it about. chapters from the guide are
Palolem Beach was largely Theres also a luxury tent and Easter available to download
undiscovered 15 years ago, and self-contained cottage (from Churches fill up statewide for (2.99) from lonelyplanet.
although thats no longer the 120; Panaji; panjiminn.com). High Mass and family feasting. com. The official state
case, it is still a good base for Noi Varo is an understated, tourism website is at
exploring southern Goa, including luxurious Portuguese mansion. goa-tourism.com. Goan TV
Polem. Sevas is one of the better Hang out in its river-view chef and cookery writer
beach hut hotels here, with well- treehouse, consult its gourmet Odette Mascarenhas can be
maintained cottages set in pretty chef and float the afternoon away found blogging about Goas
gardens, and it also offers daily in the water lounge (villa rental distinctive cuisine at
yoga classes (sevaspalolemgoa. 300, two-night minimum; odettemascarenhas.com.
com; Palolem; huts from 10). Siolim; shunyachi.com).

124 Lonely Planet Traveller January 2013