interior

Do-It-Yourself
Home Energy Audit
green home renovation
healthy homes for a healthy environment
Green How Audit
Energy is a resource Improve performance The whole house energy
audit
You can save money on utility costs, By making energy efficient upgrades
have a more comfortable home to your home, you will: The first step toward increasing your
and decrease your impact on the home’s energy efficiency and comfort
environment - all by improving the • Save Money is to conduct a whole house energy
energy efficiency of your house. Many homes see as much as a 30 audit.
per cent cut in energy bills. That’s
Climate change, caused by greenhouse money in your pocket. A diligent tour of your home with
gas emissions from burning fossil fuels, this booklet, and its tear-out checklist
is one of the biggest problems facing • Add Comfort to record your notes, will help you
us in the 21st century. The energy used Cutting drafts, keeping surfaces determine how well your home
to heat and cool our homes, as well warmer, and balancing air circulation currently operates and what upgrades
as the electricity we use for lighting with air heating makes for a cozier are needed to improve its energy
and appliances, contributes to 20 per home. performance.
cent of greenhouse gas emissions
that cause global warming. • Make a healthier Home Once you assess what needs to be
A tighter home with good ventilation done, the guide will help you with
Metro Vancouver is a leader in provides better indoor air quality. the second step - determining which
developing and promoting green or upgrades will give you the biggest
sustainable building strategies as well • Reduce Ecological Impact bang for your energy efficiency buck.
as renewable energy resources. Do you Improving your home’s energy
want to help to solve the problem of efficiency will help it work better for The guide’s payback section provides
global warming and realize great you and for the environment. information to help prioritize your
benefits in the bargain? Make your upgrades; the resources section has
home as energy-efficient as possible. references to the information needed
The greenest resource available to to accomplish your goals.
us is the energy we save through
efficiency. We can all take part in the
solution.

Cover photo: Graham Winterbottom Photography

green home renovation | energy audit
Contents
1 Introduction
Why conduct an energy audit.

3 How To Use This Guide

What you will need before you start your audit.

4 Tear-Out Checklist
Use this tear-out form to take notes as you conduct your audit.

6 The Building Enclosure

Understand the components of a building enclosure, how to
6

investigate your own home, and what to do to improve its

effectiveness.
• Air Leaks
• Insulation
• Moisture Control

14 Space and Water Heating

Understand your home’s mechanical systems, how well they are
operating, and what improvements should be made.
• Space Heating
• Water Heating

17 Paybacks
Identify the most cost effective means to make your home
energy-efficient.

18 Terms to Know
Definitions of common terms used throughout the guide.

19 Deep Green Considerations

New energy technologies and products.

20 Resources
Get more information about creating your own high-efficiency
home. 19

green home renovation | energy audit

 Before starting your audit,
get free resource profiles
from your local utility. For
customers of BC Hydro,
log on to your account at
www.bchydro.com to view
the consumption history
of your home's electricity
use. You can also view
BC Hydro’s Buyer Guides
for information on
your home's resource
Introduction
At its most basic, your home is a big box that protects you from the weather and
use and suggestions for maintains a comfortable temperature throughout the year. Two components - the
building enclosure and the heating system - are at the heart of what makes your
improvements. Terasen’s home operate efficiently while providing maximum comfort.
natural gas customers This booklet will show you how to conduct a basic inspection of your home’s
can view their account enclosure and heating system in order to make informed decisions about energy
efficiency upgrades. It is not meant to be a substitute for a professional audit or for
information online at professionally installed efficiency upgrades. But there are many tasks that even a
novice homeowner can easily accomplish, and we focus on those activities.
www.terasengas.com.
After you complete your audit, develop a master plan for improvements. Start with
Increasing numbers low cost and no cost measures you can do yourself; then ask yourself if you are
capable of performing more extensive work that may involve time in attics and
of homes in the Lower crawl spaces. Consider hiring a professional to complete the more complicated
work. A good master plan can be implemented over time to help you reach your
Mainland are installing
goals.
water meters to measure
their water usage and
lower their bills. The City
of Vancouver offers online
billing information at
vancouver.ca.

1 green home renovation | energy audit Thermal images above provided courtesy of Fluke Corporation
Professional Inspections and Audits
A professional energy audit comes with a fee, but gives you the benefit of a
building performance expert’s experience and judgment. Be sure to hire an
independent auditor, one who doesn’t represent a specific product or system.
Professional tools, including test equipment for air leakage and infrared
camera scans, allow you to ‘see’ energy losses in new ways. Here are some
examples of home performance services available:

• Blower door test - by depressurizing the home with a large fan and then
measuring airflow into the home, the overall air leakage of the entire home
can be measured. The test can also be used to determine the location of
leaks (pictured to the right).
• Duct pressure test - will identify the area and location of leaks in the duct
system. A related ‘balance’ test of the heating ducts determines if the right
amount of air is flowing to each room for comfort and efficiency. Other tests
confirm combustion safety and ventilation fan flows.
• Heat pumps and A/C commissioning - a set of tests that confirm the systems
have the correct air flow and refrigerant charge. Equipment may have been
sized using only rules of thumb, which can mean poor performance and
durability.
• Thermal Imaging - measures surface temperatures using infrared cameras
and creates a visual image of heat loss. The cameras detect radiation in the
infrared range of the electromagnetic spectrum. Typically, warmer surfaces
appear brighter, and cooler surfaces appear darker. The images can reveal
where walls, ceilings or floors are inadequately insulated or where windows
and doors aren't well sealed (pictured above).

Thermal images above provided courtesy of Fluke Corporation green home renovation | energy audit 2
Photo top right: Conservation Services Group
 How to Use
This Guide
Preparing for the Audit
• Read through this entire guide first to understand the audit process and any
safety and health concerns
• Plan to spend a couple of hours to conduct the inspection
• Assemble tools and appropriate clothing - see below
• Fill in your audit checklist as you go

Tools and Materials

• Dust mask, eye protection, coveralls and gloves
• Pen or pencil and this guide
• Calculator to calculate the size of attic and crawl space vents
• Ruler or tape measure to determine insulation depths
• Screwdriver to remove electrical outlet and switch plate covers
• Plastic knitting needle, wooden chopstick or wood skewer to probe for
insulation
• Incense stick or candle to detect air leaks
• Flashlight
• Ladder

Safety
Crawl spaces may contain a variety of dusts and animal droppings. You will want
to wear appropriate clothing and safety equipment for the audit as well as make
sure you are physically up to inspection tasks. Ladders and step stools should be
secure. Get help with ladders if needed.

Items of Particular Concern:

• Asbestos - still common around pipes, air ducts, old heating equipment and
in vermiculite insulation. It may look like a light grey or white fibrous material.
Asbestos is dangerous, but particularly so when particles become air-borne. Do
not touch or vibrate anything you suspect contains asbestos. If you suspect
asbestos, consult the WorkSafe bulletin on asbestos in renovation projects at
www2.worksafebc.com/i/posters/2003/WS%2003_03.htm.
• Fibreglass - use goggles, a dust mask, gloves and long sleeves to protect lungs
and skin from irritating particles.
• Wiring - Turn off electricity at the breaker before probing for insulation or
checking in the vicinity of any wiring. Consult an electrician if you see bare wires
or connections not contained within covered boxes.

You can search Light House Sustainable Building Centre’s service provider directory
for Energy Audit companies in the Lower Mainland www.sustainablebuildingcentre.
com. Go to page 18 for definitions of terms used throughout this guide.

3 green home renovation | energy audit Photo top right: Conservation Services Group
 Tear-Out Checklist
Use this form to make detailed notes as you inspect the various areas of your home. The checklist is set up by location
so you don’t have to visit one area more than once. For each area, you will be checking for insulation, air leaks, moisture
problems and the heating system components.

Ceiling Above Heated Area Comments/Concerns

Attic hatch  insulated  weatherstripped ______________________________________________
Attic floors  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
Attic roof (sloped)  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
Dropped ceiling  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
Cathedral ceiling  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
Flat roof  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
Wall top plates  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
Attic side walls  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
 blocked  sealed ________
Chimney chase  sealed ______________________________________________
Duct penetrations  sealed ______________________________________________
Pipe & wire penetrations  sealed ______________________________________________
Recessed lights  sealed  insulated ______________________________________________
Tear along dotted line

 baffled if not IC rated

Exhaust fan 1  working  vented to outside ______________________________________________
Exhaust fan 2  working  vented to outside ______________________________________________
Ducts  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
 joints sealed
Hot water pipes  insulated  R-Value________ ______________________________________________
Vents  vents-high #____________  total net free area _ ____________  cleared/baffled_ __________________
 vents-low #_ ___________  total net free area _ ____________  cleared/baffled_ __________________

Heating System (in Attic or Basement/Crawl Space)

Furnace  filters clean  size/type _ ______________ _ _____________________________________
 sealed combustion  flame retention
Boiler  pipes insulated  R-Value _ ______________ _ _____________________________________
 sealed combustion
Water  insulated shell  water temperature _______ _ _____________________________________
heater  pipes insulated  R-Value _ ______________ _ _____________________________________
 sealed combustion  heat traps

Floor Below Heated Area (Basement or Crawl Space)

Floor joists  insulated  R-Value_ _______________ __________________________________________
Rim joists  insulated  R-Value_ _______________ __________________________________________
Ducts  insulated  R-Value_ _______________ __________________________________________
 connected  sealed
Hot water pipes  insulated  R-Value_ _______________ __________________________________________
Ground cover (crawl space)  fully covered __________________________________________

Floor Below Heated Area (Garage and/or Cantilevered Floors)

Floor joists  insulated  R-Value_ ______________ _ __________________________________________
Rim joists  insulated  R-Value_ ______________ _ __________________________________________

green home renovation | energy audit 4

Walls (Inspected From Inside) Comments/Concerns
Between interior/  insulated  R-Value ___________ _ ___________________________________________
exterior
Between heated/  insulated  R-Value ___________ _ ___________________________________________
unheated
Pipe & wire penetrations - baths  sealed _ ___________________________________________
Pipe & wire penetrations - kitchen  sealed _ ___________________________________________
Switches & outlets  gaskets _ ___________________________________________
Baseboards/wall fans  dusted  12” from furniture/ _ ___________________________________________
combustibles
Thermostat(s)  working  automatic setback _ ___________________________________________

Doors/Windows
Front door(s)  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
 threshold weatherstripped
Back door(s)  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
 threshold weatherstripped
Door(s) to unheated  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
area(s)  threshold weatherstripped
Dog/cat door  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
Windows - LR/DR  weatherstripped  sealed ______________________________________________
Windows - kitchen  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
Windows - bath  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
Windows - den/office  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
Windows - BR 1  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
Windows - BR 2  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________
Windows - BR 3  weatherstripped  sealed _ _____________________________________________

Fireplace
Damper  tightly sealed when closed _________________________________________
Firebox  heat exchanger or fireplace insert  insulated panel _________________________________________
Chimney through ceiling  sealed _________________________________________

Exterior of House
Gutters and eaves  sealed  cleared of debris __________________________________________
Downspouts  connected  sealed __________________________________________
Window/door flashings  sealed __________________________________________
Trees or bushes  trimmed back __________________________________________
Crawl space vents #:__________  total net free area_______ cleared/baffled________ ______________________
Windows - LR/DR  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Windows - kitchen  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Windows - bath  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Windows - den/office  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Windows - BR 1  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Windows - BR 2  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Windows - BR 3  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Front door trim  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Back door trim  sealed  insulated glass __________________________________________
Pipe & wire penetrations - baths  sealed __________________________________________
Pipe & wire penetrations - kitchens  sealed __________________________________________
Foundation to walls  sealed __________________________________________
Chimney to wall  sealed __________________________________________
Small cantilevered areas (bay/garden window/bump-out)  insulated  R-Value____ _ _____________________
The Building
Enclosure
The first step in an energy audit is to understand where the
boundary is between the heated and unheated spaces in
your home. This boundary is called the building enclosure,
envelope or shell. It includes the walls, ceilings and floors
between the inside and the outside, as well as those
between heated and unheated spaces, such as a garage
or basement. In a simply shaped home it may include
just four walls, a ceiling and floor, but most homes are
more complex. A heated floor becomes a porch floor, or a
side attic connects to a wall. Bay windows have tops and
bottoms, and skylight wells must be insulated, too. It may
help to make a sketch similar to the one shown, identifying
the specific configuration of your home.

1. Air Leakage
What It Is
We often think of insulation as the primary means
to create an energy-efficient building enclosure.
However, like a sweater with a windbreaker, insulation
must work with an air barrier to be effective. The air
barrier prevents the movement of air between the
interior and the exterior (or unheated spaces). Where
there are gaps in the air barrier, air leakage occurs.
Cold air from the outside enters the home and warm
air from the interior escapes. Since warm air rises,
a heated home in winter acts like a big chimney.
As the warm air rises and escapes through ceiling
penetrations, cold air is pulled in from the basement,
garage, or crawl space. The cold air can bring dust
or pollutants with it, as well as make our homes
more dry. This occurs when moisture escapes with
the warm air and the cold air coming in lowers the
humidity in the space.

Any penetration in the building shell will result in air

leakage. Along with doors and windows, obvious
places where cold outside air enters a home are
penetrations for heating ducts, water pipes, sewer
stacks, wiring, lighting fixtures, electrical switches
and outlets, chimneys, ventilation fans, attic hatches,
fireplaces and pet doors. Air leakage can be responsible for up to 1/3 of the
heating cost, so it’s a very good investment to tighten up your home.

How To Look For It

Identifying air leakage involves two approaches: (1) taking a visual inventory
of potential problem areas, and (2) noting actual air movement. You will want
to move around the interior of your home and look for leaks in the building
enclosure, checking exterior walls, ceilings and floors. You will also investigate the
unheated side of your ceilings and floors by looking in your attic and crawl space
or unheated basement. By checking the unheated side of ceilings and floors you
can find problem areas not evident from the inside.

Use the diagram you created of your building enclosure to help identify areas to
investigate. An efficient method would be to go to each room in your house, first
looking for specific problem areas and then using your incense stick to identify air
movement. You can note air leakage points on the checklist and/or mark those
locations with tape. (Blue painters tape, available in hardware stores, won’t leave
a tape mark.)
green home renovation | energy audit 6
 Air Movement. You can often feel air leaks, especially on a windy day, by
simply placing your hand in front of potential leakage spots. You can dampen
your hand to feel the air flow better. A more effective method is to use an incense
stick, and negative pressure in your home, to actually visualize where there is air
movement. First, close all exterior doors, windows, and fireplace flues. Second,
turn off all combustion appliances such as the water heater and furnace. Third,
turn ON all exhaust fans and even the dryer on a no heat setting. This will create a
small amount of negative pressure in your home - drawing more air from outside
to the interior and making the leaks more apparent. Smoke from the incense stick
will show air movement, swirling or even rushing in. Keep a damp cloth below the
burning ash and keep well away from combustibles. You can also try thin strips of
bath tissue taped to the end of a kitchen straw or skewer to show air movement.

Windows. Look for any missing or cracked caulking or weatherstripping, broken

latches and cracked window panes. Sometimes, there is leakage around the inside
of windows where the glass meets the frame or the frame meets the wall.

Doors. Check each door that opens to the outside or to an unheated space,
such as a garage, shop, mud room or enclosed porch. Be sure to include any dog
and cat doors. Check for cracked or missing weatherstripping at the top and sides,
and look for a door sweep at the bottom. The door threshold is also a common
place for leaks.

Electrical Outlets and Light Switches. Check that those on outside walls
or walls next to unheated areas have rubber or foam gaskets.

Exhaust Fans. Pull the cover down and note if there are large gaps where the
fan housing meets drywall or plaster.

Pipe and Wire Penetrations. Where sinks are located at exterior walls, or
adjacent to unheated spaces, look under the sink. Gaps are often left in the wall
where pipes and wires pass through the wall.

Recessed Lights. These are notorious for air leakage. Note whether they are
‘Air Loc’ models and/or rated for insulation contact. Rated fixtures should have a
sticker on the inside that says “IC”.

Joints Between Different Types of Construction. This includes brick

chimneys to wood walls, vertical joints where foundations step up, and where roof
beams meet drywall or trim.

Main Attic. In the attic, you are essentially looking for holes in the ceiling. First,
note if you can see light coming up from below. Next, look for dark markings on
insulation, over pipes or at wall top plates, which indicate that there is an air leak
and dust is being drawn through. Lastly, identify all of the items that penetrate the
ceiling - chimney, pipes, recessed lights, wires - and check for gaps around them.
If there is insulation, pull it away to get a clear view. Chimneys and soil stacks can
often be the most serious air leaks in a home. Note whether the attic hatch has
good weatherstripping.

Side Attic. Check between the floor joists under a side attic wall. Is there solid
blocking between the joists? Are any gaps in the blocking sealed? If not, you will
have heat loss from the floor on the heated side of the wall into the attic space.

Crawl Space or Unheated Basement. The space under your first floor
is much like the attic. Note light coming from above and look for gaps at all
penetrations, pulling away insulation when needed.

Heated Basement. A common area of air leakage is where the wood frame of
the house rests upon the concrete or block foundation. Outside air can be drawn
in under the mud sill, the horizontal board that forms the base of the wood frame.
Another leaky area is at the rim (or band) joist. The rim joist forms the perimeter of
the floor framing above, and the floor joists butt into it, creating multiple cavities
along the length of the wall and many opportunities for air leakage.

7 green home renovation | energy audit Photo left top © Conservation Services Group
Photo left bottom © Amanda McCuaig
What To Do About It
Once you’ve identified where air leakage is occurring, you’ll want to seal off these
gaps. Depending on location, you can seal air leaks with caulk, sealant or spray
foam. Apply caulk where you need a flexible seal at narrow joints; weatherstripping
is used where two surfaces move against each other, like at a window; and spray
foam is an excellent choice for irregular shaped gaps because it will expand to fit
any opening. Before you seal gaps, review the ventilation section in this guide and
the Caulking Options section in the accompanying Bath & Laundry Renovation
Guide available for download from vancouver.ca/sustainability

Windows. Weatherstrip around the window sash (the sash is the part that
moves) and apply caulk between the window frame and trim and between the
trim and the wall.

Doors. Install weatherstripping at the tops and sides and a sweep at the base of
the door. Install a door threshold if one doesn’t already exist and caulk or replace
those that leak.

Electrical Outlets and Switches. Install foam or rubber gaskets behind the
outlet and switch plate covers on all exterior walls.

Exhaust Fans, Pipes and Wires. Seal all gaps with spray foam.
Fireplace
Recessed Lights. These should not be caulked or foamed tight unless they
are IC rated. Older cans that are not IC rated could overheat. If there is space, you What It Is
can build a box out of 3.5cm (1 inch) rigid foam insulation leaving a 10-15cm (4-6 A fire burning in an open fireplace is the least
efficient way to heat your home because 90 per
inch) air space around the light. Seal the box at all joints and to the back of the cent of the fire’s heat goes up the chimney with
ceiling material. The best solution is to replace the light with a new IC ‘Air Loc’ the smoke. A roaring fire takes combustion air
model. These come with a gasket that seals the light fixture where it meets the from the house and can pull all the heated air out
drywall, minimizing air leakage. in less than 30 minutes. Even when not in use,
the fireplace can be a big cause of heat loss if the
damper does not seal well.
Joints Between Different Types of Construction. Use caulk or spray
foam to seal leaks. The damper is the metal plate in the chimney
above the fire box used to regulate the draft.
Attic/Crawl Space/Basement. Use spray foam to seal irregular gaps Dampers should be kept closed when the fireplace
is not in use (and any previous fire is completely
around pipe and wire penetrations. Caulk is effective for small holes. In attics, out). Leaving your fireplace damper open when
crawlspaces and basements that have existing insulation, pull back the insulation there is no fire is like leaving your front door wide
during the sealing and then put it back when done. open and will dramatically increase heat loss.
The City of Vancouver’s Green Homes Program
includes new standards to increase efficiency for
Side Attic. Install wood blocking between open floor joists below the knee wall gas-fuelled fireplaces: electronic ignition, estimated
and seal any gaps with spray foam. to save around $120 in natural gas every year over
pilot-lit fireplaces; and direct venting, ensuring
Fireplace and Duct Penetrations. If there is a large gap in the attic or that the fireplace only consumes outside air and
basement next to a brick chimney, or ductwork, you’ll need to use a fire-rated eliminating the need for a chimney.
sealant. If the gap is large, first install fitted sheet metal or cement board pieces to How To Look For It
cover the opening and then seal the joints. Use a bright flashlight to check your fireplace
damper. The damper should have a tight seal
For a detailed air leakage control guide refer to the publication ‘Keeping the Heat when closed. If you cannot tell if it’s tight, close
the damper on a day or evening when there is
In’, available free from: Energy Publications, Office of Energy Efficiency, Natural
a breeze. Hold a lighted incense stick under the
Resources Canada, c/o SJDS, Ottawa ON K1G 6S3. damper. If the flame or smoke sways or moves, the
seal needs tightening. A professional mason can
do these repairs.

What To Do About It
Install tight-fitting glass doors to increase the
overall efficiency of an existing fireplace. Or
consider installing one or more fireplace devices
such as a flue top damper, air vents, heat
exchangers and/or fireplace insert. In some cases
an ash cleanout passage can be modified to
bring outside air to the fire. Some people make a
decorative panel with foam insulation on the back
to fit snugly in the opening when not in use. If
your fireplace is no longer used, you may wish to
engage a chimney repair service to permanently
seal off the chimney.

green home renovation | energy audit 8

 Insulation Options
INSULATION R-VALUE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE COMMOM APPLICATIONS

Fibreglass Batts 2X4 = R-11 Pink or yellow blankets. Can be Install in open wall, floor or ceiling cavities. Must
2X6 = R-19* unfaced, paper or plastic faced, or be carefully installed avoiding gaps, voids or
2X10 = R-30 encapsulated for ease of installation. compression. Considered to have little or no
2.9-3.8/inch negative impact on indoor environmental quality.

Cotton-Fibre Batts 2X4 = R-13 Light blue to dark blue fluffy cotton, Non-toxic. Non-irritating during installation. Easy to
2X6 = R-19-21 made from blue jean manufacturing install and does not offgas. Can be used in place
2x10 = R-30 cut-offs. of other batt insulation products. A newer product
3.0-3.7/inch not typically found in older homes.

Rockwool Batts 2X4 = R-13 Dark gray or black batts with paper Gaining popularity in residential application, but
2X6 = R-22 facing. most commonly used for industrial and commercial
2x10 = R-33 construction. Extraction and processing of mineral
2.8-3.7/inch wool (a by product of steel processing) may still be
an environmental concern.

Fibreglass Loose 2.2-2.7/inch Pink, yellow or white fluffy material Good choice for blowing into attics. Important
Fill (varies based that comes compressed in bags. that contractor set blower correctly to establish
on density) correct thickness and density. Most now contains
some recycled content, and some manufacturers
have replaced the traditional-but-toxic phenol
formaldehyde binder with other more benign
alternatives – or no binder is used at all. Loose fill
is associated with black mould and health hazards
similar to those associated with asbestos such as
lung disease.

Cellulose Loose 3.0-3.7/inch Gray finely chopped up newspaper Excellent choice for blowing into attic or
Fill with fire retardant added - usually closed wall cavities. Be sure to seal any air gaps
borate salts which inhibits mould first so dust does not blow into home. When spray
and fungus. applied this is quite dense and provides a good
barrier against air infiltration from the outside. Due to
the spray in nature of the installation, performance is
less likely to suffer from installation errors.

Vermiculite Loose 2.4/inch Looks like kitty litter or very small No longer used today.
Fill mica flakes. May contain asbestos.

Extruded 5.0/inch Blue or pink rigid board. Waterproof. Excellent for exterior sealing or insulating
Polystyrene basement walls. Can be applied directly to concrete.
(ExPS or XPS) Must be protected from sunlight.
Rigid Foam

Expanded 3.6-4.4/inch Usually white - also know as ‘bead Low cost but not as sturdy or moisture resistant as
Polystyrene (EPS) board’ ExPS. Must be protected from sunlight. Of the two
Rigid Foam main types of rigid polystyrene (XPS or EPS) EPS is
more environmentally benign.

Rigid 6.0-6.5/inch Foam boards with foil facing. 4x8, Thermax or R-max are common trade
Polyisocyanurate 4x9 and 4x10 foot sheets. names. Best R-value overall. Best choice for
maximum insulation in a thin area such as
rafters in a cathedral ceiling.

Low Density Spray 3.8/inch Yellowish, white foam that goes on Excellent for sealing irregular gaps. Expands to fill the
Foam wet and dries quickly. Expands cavity, including the smallest cracks. Products range from
as it is applied. those with a high content of toxic substances, to those
that are water-blown and do not offgas, such as Includes
“Icynene" and soy based foams.

High Density 6.5/inch Yellowish, white foam that goes on Excellent for sealing irregular gaps. Includes
Spray Foam wet and dries quickly. Expands “Corbond” and urethane.
as it is applied.

For more on selecting insulation materials, see the City of Vancouver’s Passive Design Toolkit for Homes, available
for free download at vancouver.ca/sustainability

9 green home renovation | energy audit

2. Insulation
What It Is
Insulation slows the transfer of heat from the warm side to the cold side of a wall,
ceiling or floor. Its purpose is to keep heat in during the winter and out during the
summer. Placing insulation between living spaces and unheated areas produces a
protective shell around your home. Insulation products are rated by their resistance
to heat flow, called R-Value. The higher the number, the more effective the
insulation and the lower your energy bills. Most homes in the Canada built before
the 1970’s are poorly insulated, if at all. Modern energy codes require minimum
levels of insulation; in BC the BC Building Code specifies insulation values and
energy performance, while the City of Vancouver has additional by-laws which in
many instances exceed the provincial code (see side bar).

How To Look For It

To see if and how well your home is insulated you will be going to each area of
your home’s envelope areas - walls, floors, ceilings - and looking at both the type
of insulation installed and its thickness. Some areas may be easy to see, such as
insulation in an attic space. In other areas such as walls, you will need to probe
The City of Vancouver Green
behind the surface.
Homes Program specifies
If you are unable to determine the insulation type and/or depth, such as in a flat roof
or cantilevered ceiling, professional insulation contractors and energy raters will be
able to investigate further with laser thermometers or an Infrared scanner. If your attic insulation requirements for
has no opening, you should make one yourself or have a contractor do it for you.

WALLS residential construction:

Living Areas
You can often check for wall insulation by looking inside wall cavities behind
outlet or switch covers. Make sure you choose walls next to the outside or next • attic – R-40
to an unheated area and not walls between heated rooms. You can expect
insulation to be different in renovated areas, so be sure to include these as well. • roof joist assembly – R-28
Before you begin, turn off electricity at the circuit breaker or fuse box. At each
of the exterior walls you will be investigating, use your screwdriver to remove the
cover plates from an electrical outlet or light switch. • exterior wall – R-22
1. Shine a flashlight into the opening between the electrical box and the edge of
the wallboard or plaster to see if you can detect insulation. • full height of basement
2. If you are not sure if the wall is insulated, use a non-metal knitting needle, wood
chopstick or wood skewer to gently and carefully probe the opening between
the plaster and the long edge of the electrical box. This is an optional step
wall – R-22
as you can cause damage to electrical wiring if you probe improperly. There
may be a small gap between the electrical box and the insulation, so be sure • under slab – R-12
to check slightly away from the box. If any insulation is present, then the wall
cavity is probably full.
3. Determine the type of insulation, whether it’s batt or loose fill, and its thickness. • framed suspended floor –
Use the insulation chart on page 9 to determine the R-Value.
4. Replace the cover plates and turn power back on.
R-28
Note: You may be able to determine whether your walls are insulated by checking
from the outside. If you have wood siding, look along the siding for evidence of
drilled and plugged holes. These holes suggest that insulation was blown in after
• concrete slab suspended
the house was built, with either loose fill fibreglass or cellulose. If you know the
depth of the wall, then you can use the insulation chart to estimate its R-Value. floor – R-12
Attic
If you have a heated room on your top floor, check to see if you have an unheated • windows – max U-2
attic space to either side. The wall between the heated space and the cold attic
to the sides (called the knee wall) should be insulated. If there is an access door
to the side attic, you can check for insulation (and determine the depth) from • radiant heating suspended
the attic side. If the side attics are inaccessible, check from the inside using the
method for walls, identified above, or cut out an access door. floor – R-12
Basement
If your basement is heated, the exterior walls should be insulated.; the City of
Vancouver now requires R-22 for the full height of basement walls.

green home renovation | energy audit 10

Photo right top © Owens Corning
 Concrete walls can be insulated from either the exterior or interior. On the
exterior of the wall, the insulation will typically be rigid foam. Rigid foam is also
sometimes used on the interior of the wall. If you find rigid board insulation, poke
a cocktail skewer through it to measure thickness and use the insulation chart
to estimate its R-Value. More typically, the interior will have a wood framed wall
(built to the inside of the concrete wall) filled with batt insulation and finished
with wallboard. A pony wall has similar construction, but is located above the
concrete wall instead of beside it. In both cases, use the method for checking at
electrical outlets or switches, identified above, to determine the insulation level.

Where the basement wall - either concrete or a wood framed pony wall - meets
the structure of the floor above, you’ll find the rim joists. These spaces should be
checked for insulation as well.

Note: The interior face of basement walls should not have plastic vapour
barriers. Plastic on an existing wall may cause extensive moisture build up in
the insulation and framing members. Remove plastic and check for any signs of
water damage.

Windows and Doors

What It Is
Windows and doors are a major source of heat loss in the a budget, install insulated shades or plastic storm windows. If
building enclosure. While the wall may have an R-Value of installed without air gaps, temporary do-it-yourself plastic film
21, even the most energy-efficient windows will only achieve is another inexpensive means to improve the insulating value of
an R-Value of 3 or 4. Older, single-paned windows will have your windows.
R-Values as low as R-1. On the other hand, windows do provide
energy benefits. Daylight entering through windows helps A Note About Window Ratings
reduce our reliance on electric lighting. In winter, solar heat The overall quality of a window is key to its performance and
enters through the windows and contributes to space heating. can be determined by the thermal quality of the glass and the
For more information on the power of the sun to passively heat frame. Further considerations are the solar heat gain coefficient
and light your home, download the Passive Design Toolkit for of the glass and of the spacer material. In contrast to insulation,
Homes, available from vancouver.ca/sustainability. windows are rated by their U-Value, which is the reciprocal of
R-Value (U = 1/R). U-values for windows can refer to the centre
How To Look For It of glass or edge of window ‘whole frame’ measurements. The
If you have single-pane windows, upgrading to efficient double- value will change with the size of the window because the ratio
paned windows is your most effective option. Even the small of window to frame will increase as the window gets bigger.
increase in R-Value from R-1 to R-3 can make a noticeable Most manufacturers provide the U value of the glass and the
difference in your utility bills and comfort, not to mention the frame separately – proper analysis must assess the U value of
benefits in noise reduction, superior weatherstripping and the entire system.
advanced framing of newer windows. Replacing windows can be
quite costly and have a long payback period. If you are on

CEILINGS
Attic
1. Find the attic spaces in your house. A one story house usually has just one. If there
have been one or more additions or you have several levels, you may have two or
more different attic spaces with separate access holes. Access holes are often in
the ceiling or side wall of a closet, hallway, laundry room or staircase. If you can’t
find an access hatch to your attic, you may want to make one. Look into each
attic space to check for insulation.
2. Once your head and shoulders are inside the access hole, shine your flashlight
beam over as much of the attic as you can. Look for potential hazards in case
you need to enter and move around in the space, such as electrical wiring or nails
coming through the roof sheathing.
3. If you need to move around in the attic, always step on the wood beams (ceiling
joists) and not between them. Stepping between joists can disrupt electrical
wiring and/or damage ceilings - or injure you if you break through the ceiling.
4. Look for insulation that should be on the attic floor. It might be in the form of
batts (fluffy rolled-out blankets) or loose fill. If the insulation is evenly spread, you
do not need to enter the attic. Measure its thickness from the access hole. Some
attics have more than one layer of insulation. Measure the total thickness and
check the insulation chart to get an approximate R-Value. If you notice varying
levels of insulation, measure the depth in a several places and average them
together. Also look for soffits or dropped ceiling areas where insulation may have
been missed.
11 green home renovation | energy audit
 Cathedral Ceiling or Flat Roof
Sloped or vaulted ceilings and flat roofs are difficult to check for insulation. You
may find that removing a light fixture allows you to probe for insulation in the same
manner as probing at electrical outlets worked at walls. It may be possible to remove
a recessed can fixture to see inside the cavity. If you are unsure how to remove
the fixture, you may want to seek the help of an electrician. If you determine that
there is insulation in the ceiling, but can’t assess the depth from the interior, you
can measure the depth of the rafters at the exterior eaves to determine it’s likely
thickness. Note that the full depth of the rafters may not be filled with insulation
and a properly insulated roof will have a 2.5cm (1 inch) air space between the top of
the insulation and the top of the rafters. Sometimes you have to make an estimate
based on the date of construction and the codes at the time.

FLOORS
Unheated Basement
If your basement is unheated, the ceiling becomes part of the shell that encloses
your heated space. If the ceiling is exposed, checking the insulation type and depth
is straightforward. If there is a finished ceiling, look for any small exposed area or
crack where you can insert your non-metal probe to check for the presence of
insulation and measure its depth. As with a cathedral ceiling, you may be able to
remove a light fixture to access the ceiling/floor cavity.

Heated Basement
If the basement is heated by the same system that heats the rest of the house, the
basement ceiling does not need insulation. However, basement ceiling insulation
is recommended if there is a separate heating system just for the basement. By
insulating between the two different heating zones, the basement can be kept at a
different temperature than the remainder of the house or the heat to be turned off
entirely when the space isn’t being used.

Crawl Space
A crawl space is similar to an unheated basement with the ceiling acting as the
building enclosure. To check the insulation, you’ll need to access the crawl space.
Many homeowners have never entered their home's crawl spaces. It often involves
crawling into a low dark place that may be a hiding place for bugs or rodents or
their droppings. The ground may be wet and ducts and pipes may obstruct your
view. But not knowing what is in your crawl space could be costing you hundreds
of dollars a year.

Start by locating the access opening. It may be in the floor of your home in a closet,
on the outside foundation wall or both. Be sure you have found all the access doors
or ways to see unheated crawl spaces.
1. Measure the insulation depth between floor joists above you. Floor insulation
material is usually fibreglass batts. Some homes have aluminum foil attached to
the floor joists. This material alone does not provide adequate insulation. Make
sure you probe for insulation under any covering. If the batt insulation has a
paper or foil facing you, the batts have been installed backwards and should
be reversed. (Moisture created inside the home can condense in the batts, and
damage them).
2. Check to make sure there are no gaps in insulation coverage. Even small gaps can
increase heat loss significantly.
3. While in your crawl space, you may also want to check items identified in the
Moisture Control and Space Heating sections.

Cantilevered Floors
Cantilevered floors are a part of the home that jut out past the foundation wall. They
are most common for bay windows, window seats or small bump-outs in living/
dining rooms, kitchens or even a garage. Floor insulation for these areas is often
overlooked. Check cantilevered areas for insulation and air leaks. At a cantilevered
floor over a porch, garage or basement you may find a light fixture you can remove
to probe for insulation.

What To Do About It
You can increase the levels of insulation in any or all parts of your home by hiring a
professional insulation contractor or by doing the work yourself. If you choose to do it
yourself, see the resources section for information and how-to-guides and be certain
that you are well informed on proper installation techniques.
green home renovation | energy audit 12
NOTE: Seal leaks before you insulate - sealing is more cost-effective than installing insulation.
 3. Moisture Control
What It Is
Excessive moisture is a precursor to mould and mildew. Excessive moisture shows up
on windows that “sweat” and as mould on walls. Moisture can enter from the exterior,
from roof leaks, cracked foundations, uncovered dirt flooring in the crawlspace,
blocked gutters, exhaust fans that are vented into the attic, vegetation too close to
the house or poor attic or crawl space ventilation. Moisture is also generated inside
the home from cooking, bathing and breathing - normal daily household activities.
This moist air can then enter walls and ceiling cavities through unsealed cracks.

If your house does not have eaves, it is especially prone to having wet walls. In the
40's, homes were often built without eaves. Gutters were installed where the wall and
roof intersected, allowing rain to easily pass behind the gutter and drip directly into
the wall cavity, causing mould and mildew and making the home harder to heat.

Proper attic or crawl space ventilation is critical for keeping air circulating in your
attic and crawl space areas. It may seem counter-intuitive to encourage cold air to
enter attic or crawl spaces, but good venting removes water vapour before it has the
opportunity to condense and ruin insulation and the wood structure of your home.

How To Look For It

Inspect the outside of your home, along with your attic and crawl space, for possible
moisture problems.
1. Check roof, gutters and foundation for cracks and leaks.
2. Note trees and bushes that touch walls or roof or hang over the gutters. They will
need to be trimmed back.
3. Look in your attic to ensure that any fans are ducted to vent to the exterior, NOT
into the attic itself.
4. Look around the entire perimeter of your crawl space foundation for vents. Count
the number and measure their openings in square inches. As a rule of thumb you
need one square foot of net free area for every 300 square feet of crawl space.
Net free area refers to the size without the interference of screens or louvers.
Subtract about half the total opening size to get an approximate net free area.
5. Check to see if there is a plastic ground cover in your crawl space. It should cover
every inch of dirt. Even small gaps can contribute to moisture problems inside
your home.
6. While in the crawlspace, check to see that all vents are clear of debris, blocking
or insulation.
7. Look on your roof, under your eaves or on the gable ends for attic vents. As a rule
of thumb, attic ventilation should be at least one square foot of net free area for
every 300 square feet of attic area when half the vents are placed low and half
the vents are placed high. Double that amount if you do not have a combination
of high and low vents. Examples of low vents are soffit and eave vents covered
with louvers or screens. High venting includes roof jacks, gable vents and ridge
vents.

Inspect the inside of your home for possible moisture problems or leaks.
1. Check all exterior walls from the inside for any sign of mould or mildew. Don't
forget closets where there may be poor air circulation.
2. Check plumbing fixtures, clothes washers and water heaters for evidence of
leaks: swollen materials, rust, cracked or missing caulk or blistered paint.
3. Check your exhaust fans to see if they work. With your fans on, hold a light plastic
bag over each one to see if it pulls the bag upwards.

What To Do About It
1. Seal all leaks in the building envelope. Before adding wall insulation to an older
home, first repair all gutter, roof, and wall flashings.
2. Bring crawl space and attic ventilation up to code. Repair broken vent screens
and clear away anything blocking airflow. Never add insulation without providing
adequate ventilation at the same time.
3. Where they don't already exist, install ventilation fans - vented to the exterior - at
baths and ranges.
4. If existing fans are vented into the attic space, install ductwork to vent them
through the roof to the outside.
5. Use your kitchen and bath exhaust fans whenever you are cooking or bathing.
13 green home renovation | energy audit
Space and
Water Heating
1. Space Heating
What It Is
An estimated 40 per cent of home energy use is for space heating. If your
heating system is not working efficiently, as much as 30 per cent to 50 per cent of
this energy is wasted. The following information will help you assess your heating
system’s efficiency.

Heating System Types:

A Central System is one in which air or water is heated in one area and then
distributed by a fan or pump to each part of the home. The temperature for the
spaces served by the system is usually controlled by one thermostat centrally
located. These systems include furnaces and heat pumps that push heated air
through ducts (central forced air), and boilers that pump heated water through
room radiators or pipes in baseboards, or within floors or ceilings. Common fuels
are gas, oil or electricity.

A Zone System is one in which the heating units are contained in each room
or space, and the temperature is controlled by its own thermostat. The most
common types of zone systems are electric baseboard heaters, wall fans and
radiant floor pipes (such as in a bathroom). Zone units are most commonly
electric resistance, but may also use circulating water heated by gas or oil.

Combustion Appliances
Gas and oil combustion appliances require air to burn fuel. Appliances with a
sealed combustion system have a separate air intake vent (a sealed duct or pipe)
which supplies air from outdoors. However, some combustion appliances use air
from inside the house to support combustion. In a well air sealed house, kitchen
hoods, bath exhaust fans and clothes dryers can create negative pressures
within the house that can cause dangerous back drafting in which combustion
gases are pulled back into the living space. Before performing any air sealing,
ensure that you have either sealed combustion appliances, or that there is an
alternate means (e.g. wall vents) for the appliance to draw outside air. In all cases,
combustion appliances must exhaust their combustion gases to the outdoors via
an exhaust vent. Call a furnace or water heater professional if you suspect that
any combustion appliance is not properly exhausting to the outdoors, or if you
see any damage to the vent pipes.

How To Look For It

Central Forced Air (ducts in attic, basement and crawl spaces)
1. Determine when your furnace was last inspected and cleaned. Look for a
record of inspections on the side of the equipment.
2. Check to see if air filters are clean.
3. If your ductwork runs through unheated spaces (such as an unheated
basement or crawlspace), check for insulation and determine its depth and
R-Value.

NOTE: If you suspect that ducts or pipes are insulated with asbestos, do not
touch it! Call a professional for an assessment. It must be removed by certified
asbestos contractors who know how to contain it so no particles escape into your
home.

green home renovation | energy audit 14

 4. Check the joints between each piece of ducting to ensure they are properly
sealed. Joints between duct pieces should be sealed with mastic, NOT duct
For any type of heating tape which becomes brittle with heat and age. Mastic usually looks white or
grey, and is painted or spread over the seams. Note any damaged or open
system, it’s a good idea joints. If your ductwork is insulated, use gloves, a dust mask and goggles to
protect yourself, and then pull aside any insulation to inspect all joints. Check
to install programmable all ductwork runs for any constriction or damage.
5. Check for air leaks around each floor vent (register). Very often the holes cut
thermostats. These will into the floor to install the heating vents are not sealed and can be a major
source of air leakage.
allow you automatically 6. Check to make sure holes no longer used by the duct system are sealed.
adjust the temperature Central Hot Water/Radiant Heat (in-room radiators, baseboards or
settings and schedule pipes in-floor)
1. Check pipes for insulation.
your heating system to 2. If there is a radiant floor slab, check to see if it is insulated around the edges.
You may be able to probe where the slab meets the foundation wall.
provide heat when you 3. Check for the presence of an insulated or reflective panel behind radiators.
These reflect heat back into the room and prevent higher heat loss at the
need it, but reduce it when wall.

you are gone or at night. Zone (baseboards or wall fan units)

1. Check for dust on baseboard or wall unit heaters.
Programmable thermostats 2. Check for automatic set-back thermostats for electric baseboard or wall fan
heaters.
are now available for zone 3. Check for potential air leaks at wires coming from the floor or wall.

systems such as baseboard What To Do About It

The chart shows the differences in average efficiencies between gas and oil-
heaters and wall fans. fired central heating units. The numbers represent combustion efficiencies -
how much useable heat is produced as opposed to what goes up the chimney
- not distribution losses - heat loss from ducts or pipes. (Note: Since electricity
is not a fuel with combustible by-products, it is not included on this chart.)

Gas-Fired Oil-Fired If you are considering ways to increase the efficiency of your
Variable Speed Furnace 95% Condensing Furnace/ 90-95% heating system, look first to reducing losses in your distribution
Boiler (plastic vent pipes) system (ducts or pipes). Poorly insulated or un-sealed ducts
Condensing Furnace/Boiler 90-95% Furnace/Boiler with flame 80% can transfer up to half the heat produced by your heater into
with fame (plastic vent pipes) retention burner - not unheated areas of your home! To assess the cost-effectiveness
maintained of changing fuels, replacing your heating unit or tuning up your
Standard Furnace 5-10 years 75% Furnace/Boiler with flame 60-75% existing unit, talk to a certified heating professional. Also, the
old retention burner better insulated your home, the smaller the heating system
Standard Furnace 20+ years 68% Standard Furnace 55% needed and the less energy it will use.
old

Central Forced Air

1. Oil furnaces should be replaced with high-efficiency, sealed combustion units
that include a flame retention burner. Gas furnaces with over 90 per cent
efficiency are a good investment and add to the resale value of a home.
2. Have your furnace inspected and cleaned regularly. Oil burning equipment
should be checked yearly, gas equipment every other year.
3. Seal all joints in the ductwork with mastic. Repair any seals that have been
damaged.
4. Insulate ducts to a minimum of R-8 wherever they pass through unheated
areas such as garages, crawl spaces, unheated basements or attics. Insulating
to R-16 or R-30 will be even more effective.

Central Hot Water/Radiant Heat

1. Oil boilers should be replaced with high-efficiency, sealed combustion units
with a minimum efficiency of 85 per cent.
2. Have your boiler inspected and cleaned regularly. Oil burning equipment
should be checked yearly, gas equipment every other year.
3. Install insulation at hot water pipes. Foam pipe insulation is available for various
pipe sizes. Be sure that joints and corners are thoroughly covered. Seal around
any pipes that penetrate the floor.
4. If there is no insulation at the slab edge of a radiant floor, consider adding
insulation to the outside of the foundation.
5. Old radiators can have new zone valves installed, improving performance.
15 green home renovation | energy audit
 Zone
1. Keep furniture at least 12” away from baseboards and wall unit heaters and keep
them free of dust for more effective heat flow.
2. Seal any holes or gaps around wires coming from the floor or wall.

Space Cooling
When it’s hot outside, heat will enter a home through windows, walls, the roof and air leaks. The
chimney effect can reverse and pull hot air in at the top as the heavier cool air “falls out” of leaks
at the lower part of a home. In Metro Vancouver, if your home is well insulated and adequately
sealed, and there is good ventilation, you generally do not need air conditioning. If you do have a
room that is hot, try to control the problem by reducing the heat gain rather than buying a room
air conditioner. Air conditioners use a lot of power!
1. Use deciduous trees and shrubs to shade sunny walls, windows, and walkways. Vegetation not
only creates shade, but its constant evapouration helps cool the surrounding air, so try to bring in
ventilation air from below or near trees.
2. Add overhangs to south windows. If designed correctly, they will allow the sun’s rays to enter in
the winter but block them in the summer.
3. Shades can also be used on south and west windows to keep heat out, but only if installed on
the exterior of the window. Mesh shade cloth can block heat, but still allow a view. Another option
is roll down bamboo shades hung from the eaves.
4. If your roof is black, it will absorb the heat of the sun and re-radiate it into your home. If possible,
install a radiant barrier, a shiny foil surface, to the bottom side of rafters on a south roof. There
are roofing materials available that are certified by EnergyStar as high albedo, or reflective, roofs.
Be sure there is good air flow through the air space in front of the foil. Proper attic ventilation,
discussed in the Moisture Control section, can also greatly increase summer comfort by allowing
the warm air in the attic to exhaust to the exterior before it enters the interior spaces below.
If you must use an air conditioner replace any model older than 2000 with an ENERGY STAR®
unit.

2. Water Heating
What It Is
Heating water for bathing and washing accounts for as much as 15 per cent to 30
per cent of your household energy use.

How To Look For It

1. Check your water temperature. It should be around 60 degrees Celsius (140
degrees Fahrenheit) (this also prevents scalding). Water heater thermostat
settings are often inaccurate. Run hot tap water over a candy or meat
thermometer to verify temperature.
2. Most water heaters manufactured in the last 10 years have adequate insulation
under the shell however, older units may not. Put your hand on the shell. If it feels
warm, it should have an insulating blanket around it.
3. Look at the hot and cold water pipes. All exposed hot water pipes and the first
five feet of the cold water pipe should be insulated. Foam pipe insulation is
available for various pipe sizes.
4. Check to see if showerheads and kitchen and bath faucet aerators are low-flow
models. The litre per second (gallons per minute) rating may be on the side of
the aerator. Models are available that use as little as 6 litres or 1 1/2 gallons per
minute.

What To Do About It
1. Install new faucet aerators and low-flow showerheads to save on both energy
and water. The following new, lower flow-rate products are readily available
and deliver excellent results - most folks don’t notice a difference. The City of
Vancouver provides residents with Water Saver Kits that can help your bathroom
use 15 to 20 per cent less water. vancouver.ca
• Showerheads — 6 litres or 1.5 gallons per minute
• Kitchen faucet aerators — 8.3 litres or 2.2 gallons per minute
• Bathroom faucet aerators — 4 litres or one gallon per minute are sufficient for
most lavatory tasks.
2. Install heat traps and an insulation blanket if you have an electric water heater
that is more than 15 years old.
3. Replacement tanks should have an EF (Energy Factor) rating of over .62 for
gas and .93 for electric. Gas-heated tankless water heaters can save about 20
per cent. Check with BC Hydro or Terasen Gas for efficiency rebates. Consider
installing solar hot water - some homeowners are getting up to 60 per cent of
their water heat from the sun - even in Vancouver! See www.solarbc.ca for more green home renovation | energy audit 16
details.
 Return on Investment

A 1925 home in
Paybacks
Washignton State had a Payback is an estimate of how long it will take to save enough energy to pay for the
cost of a conservation measure. A payback calculation will help you decide which
new high efficiency boiler upgrades to prioritize. Sealing up air leaks and duct-sealing are low cost measures
and usually come in first place for payback. Air infiltration can be up to a third of a
but needed significant air home’s heating load. Insulation, especially in walls or basements that have none, is
sealing in the floor, attic an excellent investment.

and on the windows to a When looking at how much an investment may save, consider the source of
information. Someone selling a product may overestimate the savings of that
glassed-in porch. It had product or miss lower cost measures. Information from your local utility or engaging
the services of a professional can help you with unbiased information.
no wall insulation and
floor insulation was very We recommend doing those improvements first that cost the least and save the
most energy. The following list of energy conservation measures are arranged in the
limited. In addition, there order of their payback.

was asbestos material in

A. Energy Measures that • Tune up heating and cooling
the unheated basement Save a Lot and Have Little equipment.
or No Cost • Insulate and air seal rim joist area in
left when the old boiler basement.
• Keep your home at or below
was removed. This made 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees
C. Energy Measures with an
F.arenheit)
air sealing the floor • Lower heating thermostat to 15
Estimated Two to Five-Year
degrees Celsius (60 degrees Payback
very important for air Farenheit) at night and when home • Insulate walls in a heated
quality. Replacement was is unoccupied. basement, and the rim joist of an
• Close fireplace damper when unheated basement or crawl space.
recommended for the fireplace is not in use. • Install attic insulation to achieve a
• Replace furnace air filters regularly. minimum R-38.
front door and several of • Lower water heater thermostats to • Install underfloor insulation to
60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees achieve a minimum R-30.
the largest old windows. • Install fireplace modifications such
Farenheit).
Energy modeling • Insulate electric based hot water as glass doors, flue top damper
pipes and install heat trap fittings and outside combustion air.
predicted a 33 per cent at flex connections. Insulate the • Install do-it-yourself insulated
first five feet of cold line. window shades or shutters.
savings for the investment • Install low flow efficient • Install wall insulation in un-insulated
showerheads and faucet aerators. exterior walls.
of about $7000 in this • Install do-it-yourself solar hot water
• Install gaskets behind electric
package - about a 13 per outlets and switch plates on preheat.
exterior walls.
cent return on investment. • Seal air leaks to attic and crawl D. Energy Measures with an
The south exposure was space with spray foam. Estimated Payback of More
• Caulk and weatherstrip windows, Than Five Years
excellent and hot water doors, cracks and holes.
• Install commercial storm windows.
• Dust baseboard and wall heaters.
• Replace existing single-pane
use fairly high, so the windows with new double, or even
B. Energy Measures with an triple-pane, windows.
audit recommended Estimated One to Two-Year • Replace older furnace or boiler
adding solar hot water Payback with a 90 per cent+ condensing
• Install programmable thermostats. unit.
as well. This brought the • Have a blower door test conducted • Install a fireplace insert into an
to assist with air sealing. existing fireplace.
total savings to about 40 • Install an energy efficient hot water
• Install do-it-yourself plastic storm
per cent with a $13,000 windows. tank or tankless hot water heater.
• Repair fireplace damper seal. • Replace conventional oil furnace
investment - a return of • Install compact fluorescent lights in burner with a new flame retention
all fixtures. burner.
about 7 per cent. • Install dimmer switches, photocells, • Install active solar hot water
timers and motion detectors. system.
• Install do-it-yourself insulated panel
or cover to seal fireplace when not
17 green home renovation | energy audit
in use.
 Case Study
Terms to Know A 1956 brick-faced
R-Value is the resistance to heat loss. It indicates how well insulation resists heat
movement. A bigger number means better insulation. home in Seattle was

U-Value is how a material transmits heat - simply the inverse of R-Value (U = purchased by a new
1/R). In this case, a lower number is better. U-Values are found on windows and
some doors. buyer in 2007. It had

AFUE (Annual Fuel Use Efficiency) measures how much of the only about 3” of attic
energy in the natural gas or oil is coming into the home as useful heat. A 94
per cent efficient furnace loses only 6 per cent of the energy in the gas or oil insulation and no wall
up the chimney vent. Old systems may run at 65 per cent AFUE with almost
35 per cent wasted heat. You will notice how much cooler the vent pipe of insulation. Floors over a
a modern furnace is. Boilers and some fireplaces also have AFUE ratings.
partial crawl space were
SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) is the standard for air
conditioning efficiency. It is the ratio of the cooling capacity to the power input. insulated with R-19,
The higher the number the more cooling is achieved for each watt of electricity.
This has improved substantially in recent years. SEER 19 or higher units are now but the concrete walls
available.
of the heated basement
HSPF (Heating Season Performance Factor) is the most important
measure for heat pumps. Heat pumps also have a SEER for their air conditioning had none nor did some
function, but in Vancouver AC is often unnecessary, so the focus is on HSPF.
short walls separating
EF (Energy Factor) is the measure for the overall efficiency of water heaters.
It includes the pilot light and standby loss from a tank. Standard gas hot water the crawl space from the
tanks have been about EF .58 - or about 58 per cent efficient. Tankless water
heaters range from .79 - .86 EF, while some condensing boilers and water tanks heated basement. The
reach above .90 EF.
furnace was relatively
Litres or Gallons Per Minute is the water flow rate for faucet aerators and
showerheads. new, a standard model

Heat Traps – valves or loops of pipe – allow water to flow into the water heater about 80 per cent
tank but prevent unwanted hot-water flow out of the tank. The valves have balls
inside that either float or sink into a seat, which stops convection. These specially efficient. Air sealing in
designed valves come in pairs. The valves are designed differently for use in either
the hot or cold water line. the attic and floor along
with sealing/insulating
the air ducts in the
crawlspace were judged
a high priority. Analysis
showed this home could
see a 46 per cent savings
for an investment
under $6,000--a return
of nearly 20 per cent.
Rising energy prices in
the future would only
improve these numbers.

green home renovation | energy audit 18

 Deep Green
Considerations
Drain Water Heat Recovery
If your family takes a lot of showers, these simple devices are a good investment.
A simple copper tube wrapped heat exchanger fits on your vertical main drain
line, where it picks up wasted heat and feeds it back to the water heater. www.
power-pipe.us

Heat Recovery Ventilators / Energy Recovery Ventilators

Required by Vancouver's Green Homes Program, these fan systems quietly bring
in plenty of fresh air that is pre-warmed by outgoing stale air. Most units are
from 60 per cent to 90 per cent efficient at recovering heat. A central ventilation
system is an especially good option for a tightly sealed home and allows you to
add filtration and control the sources of fresh air to improve the air quality in your
home. www.teca.ca.

Laundry Spinner
A wastebasket sized gadget that can spin wet clothes at 3200 rpm, quickly taking
out nearly half of the water. This reduces dryer run time up to 50 per cent and
adds convenience.

Solar Hot Water

Solar is back as a hot item again and is cost-effective in Vancouver. Some
Vancouver residents are getting 50-70 per cent of their hot water needs met
through solar hot water heating. Since hot water can be 15 per cent of our home
energy (and greenhouse emissions), that’s a big warm contribution to reducing
climate change! www.solarbc.ca

The City of Vancouver Green Homes program requires that every new house be
pre-piped with two 50 mm (2 inch) pipes to allow for the future installation of roof-
mounted solar energy generating equipment without needing to tear open walls
and ceilings. www.bcsea.org.

Photo top left: Jon Alexander

Photo top right: Grace Huang
19 green home renovation | energy audit
Photo bottom left: Power-PipeTM
Resources
Energy Waste
BC Hydro provides many incentives and grants to improve Metro Vancouver provides a directory of recycling and salvage
energy efficiency through their Powersmart program. The businesses at www.MetroVancouverRecycles.org. There is also
website provides useful tips for homeowners to reduce more information about recycling available from the Recycling
electricity cost throughout the home: www.bchydro.com/ Council of BC at rcbc.bc.ca.
powersmart

Energy: Appliances and Fixtures

Natural Resources Canada website is very comprehensive and For further details on the EnergyStar and EnerGuide labelling
includes all the information required for the homeowner to programs and energy efficiency of household appliances,
take advantage of the EcoEnergy Program: oee.nrcan.gc.ca/ visit Natural Resources Canada, oee.nrcan.gc.ca (click on
Residential).
Renovating your home is an exciting process. The following
site will help you make the right choices and develop a clear
map to reach your renovation goals: www.myhomereno.com/.
Incentives & Funding
For a comprehensive list of incentives available, visit the Metro
Vancouver BuildSmart website at www.metrovancouver.org/
CMHC has Energy Efficiency Renovation fact sheets that can buildsmart. Incentives and funding are available from:
help you plan your project. You can download these at www.
cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/renoho/refash/
• BC Hydro www.bchydro.com
• Solar BC www.solarbc.ca
For tips on harnessing the natural power of the sun for heating
and cooling, see the City of Vancouver’s Passive Design Toolkit • Terasen www.terasen.com
for Homes downloadable at vancouver.ca/sustainability. • CMHC www.cmhc.ca
• Vancity www.vancity.com
For assistance with selection of environmentally friendly • Federal Eco Action program oee.nrcan.gc.ca
building materials, see CMHC’s ‘Building Materials for the
Environmentally Hypersensitive’, available to purchase from
www.cmhc.ca.

For details on various green building products and for product

and service provider directories, see Metro Vancouver’s
BuildSmart website at www.metrovancouver.org/buildsmart,
as well as Light House Sustainable Building Centre at www.
sustainablebuildingcentre.com.

green home renovation | energy audit 20

The Do-It-Yourself Home Energy Audit guide was originally created
by the Seattle Department of Planning & Development’s City
Green Building Program and Seattle City Light. The Vancouver
Sustainable Development Program acknowledges the City of Seattle
for permission to revise these guides for use in Vancouver, B.C. The
City of Seattle, and all other named contributors to the original
document on which this guide is based, are not liable and the City of
Vancouver takes all responsibility for any errors, omissions or other
defects contained in this guide.

vancouver.ca/sustainability

© 2010 City of Vancouver. Printed in Canada.

* Vancouver Green Capital is a registered trademark of the City of Vancouver.