f048m ForagingCalifornia Tut2u
f048m ForagingCalifornia Tut2u
A field Guide
FALCON
GUIDE® CALIFORNIA
Finding, Identifying, and Preparing
Edible Wild Foods in California
Foraging California
From field to table: finding, identifying, preparing,
and cooking wild edibles in California
From acorns, cactus, and yucca to mesquite, manzanita, and lamb’s quarter— Foraging
California guides readers to the edible wild foods and healthful herbs of the Golden State.
Organized by plant families, this book is an authoritative guide for nature lovers, outdoors
enthusiasts, and gastronomes. This guide also includes:
Christopher Nyerges, cofounder of the School of Self-Reliance, has led wild-food walks for thousands
of students since 1974. He is the author of ten books on wild foods, survival, and self-reliance, and he
has written numerous newspaper and magazine articles. He teaches and lives in Los Angeles County.
Visit him at ChristopherNyerges.com.
falcon.com
FalconGuides® is an imprint of
Globe Pequot Press
CHRISTOPhER NYERGES
Foraging california
i
ii Foraging California
Christopher Nyerges
iii
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any
means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and
retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the publisher. Requests for permission
should be addressed to Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights and Permissions Department, PO Box 480,
Guilford, CT 06437.
ISBN 978-0-7627-8684-8
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
The identification, selection, and processing of any wild plant for use as food requires rea-
sonable care and attention to details since, as indicated in the text, certain parts are wholly
unsuitable for use and, in some instances, are even toxic. Because attempts to use any wild
plants for food depend on various factors controllable only by the reader, the author and
Globe Pequot Press assume no liability for personal accident, illness, or death related to these
activities.
SEAWEEDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Marine Green Algae (Chlorophyta); Brown Algae (Phaeophyta); Red Algae
(Rhodophyta) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
FERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Bracken Family (Dennstaedtiacea) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
GYMNOSPERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Ephedra Family (Ephedraceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Mormon Tea (Ephedra spp.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Pine Family (Pinaceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Pine (Pinus spp.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
MAGNOLIIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Laurel Family (Lauraceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
California Bay (Umbellularia californica) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
EUDICOTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Muskroot Family (Adoxaceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Elderberry (Sambucus spp.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Fig Marigold Family (Aizoaceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Amaranth Family (Amaranthaceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Carrot Family (Apiaceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Sunflower Family (Asteraceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Chicory (Cichorium intybus) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Prickly Lettuce (Lactuca serriola and others) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Sow Thistle (Sonchus oleraceus and others) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
viii Contents
MONOCOTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Century Plant Family (Agavaceae) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Yucca (Hesperoyucca whipplei) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Contents ix
x Contents
After I had already spent several years learning botany and ethnobotany in high
school and college, books and lectures, often very piecemeal and second-hand,
I had the very good fortune in approximately 1974 to meet Dr. Leonid Enari,
the senior biologist at the Los Angeles County Arboretum, who was teaching his
course on “Edible, Medicinal, and Poisonous Plants.” His knowledge was astro-
nomical, and after I took several of his courses, he always allowed me to come to
his office where he would identify the various plants I brought him and tell me
their stories. Never once did I bring him a plant that he didn’t know. In most
cases, he knew several stories about each plant. He eagerly worked with me on
my first book, and he assisted me in compiling lists of safe and primarily edible
plant families. His unique background in botany and chemistry made him ide-
ally suited as a primary source of information. He acted as my teacher, mentor,
and friend, and he always encouraged my study and teaching in this field. I felt
the great loss when he passed away in 2006 at age eighty-nine. Thus, it is to Dr.
Enari that I dedicate this book, Foraging California.
I also had many other mentors, teachers, and supporters along the way. These
include (but are not limited to) Dr. Luis Wheeler (University of Southern Cali-
fornia botanist), Richard Barmakian (nutritionist), Dorothy Poole (Gabrielino
“chaparral granny”), Richard E. White (founder of the nonprofit WTI, who
taught me how to teach, and how to think), John Watkins (a Mensan who “knew
everything”), Mr. Muir (my botany teacher at John Muir High School), Robert
Tally of the Los Angeles Mycological Association, William Breen (also of the LA
Mycological Association, who taught
me to cook with mushrooms), and
Pascal Baudar and Mia Wasilevich,
both wild-food cooking experts.
These individuals all imparted valu-
able information to me, and they
have all been my mentors to varying
degrees; I also thank them for their
influence. Euell Gibbons also had a
strong impact on my early studies of
wild food, mostly through his books;
I met him only once.
Of course, there have been many
others who taught me bits and pieces
along the way, and I feel gratitude for Christopher with Euell Gibbons in 1975
xi
xii Acknowledgments
Organization of Guide
The plants in this book are organized according to the system used by botanists;
we will be following The Jepson Manual: Vascular Plants of California (2012).
1
2 Introduction
The state of California is a complex place. Biology texts will show the state with
lines delineating one biotic zone from another, and sometimes you can find clean
and distinct biotic zones. Studying these zones helps us get an idea of the biologi-
cal diversity of the state. But urban sprawl, farming, fires, grazing, and perhaps
other factors have continued to blur the clean distinctions from one zone to the
other. Transition is everywhere, and plants often choose to live outside the zone
where we expect them to be. Thus, the categories listed below are broad biologi-
cal zones that you will find in California, with lots of overlap. These categories
help you to understand the state, but their borders are not hard and fast.
1 5 REGIONS
1 Northwestern California
2 Chaparral & Mountain Zones
3 Sierra Nevada
4 Central Valley
5 Modoc Plateau
6 Eastern Sierra
2 7 Mojave Desert
3
8 Sonoran Desert
9 Traverse Ranges
Sacramento
San Francisco
Modesto
6
N E VA D A
4
Fresno
7
Bakersfield
PA C I F I C CALIFORNIA
OCEAN
Los Angeles 9
Desert
8
Chaparral
San Diego
Mountains
MEXICO
Riparian—The riparian zone refers to the areas along rivers or streams and
around lakes. The plants in this zone require good amounts of water, so you
won’t generally find them far from a water source. Most that we’ve included here
are natives. Although the riparian regions are estimated to be about 1 to 2 per-
cent of the total landscape, all fauna relate to and largely depend upon that very
small percentage of land.
Cattails, 209
Mint, 128
Monkey flower, 145
Veronica, 147
Watercress, 70
Wild grape, 184
Because more and more people want to learn how to “live off the land” and use
wild plants for food and medicine, please practice sustainable collecting and
harvesting methods.
Always make sure it is both legal and safe for you to harvest the wild foods.
Legality can usually be determined simply by asking a few questions or making
a phone call. Don’t be surprised if you are then asked what you intend to pick.
Because many of the plants listed in this book are often regarded as “nuisance
weeds,” most property owners will allow you to come in and remove the plants
that they do not want.
In some cases, when we’re dealing with public lands, the issue of legality may
be a bit more difficult to ascertain.
You also want to be safe, making sure there are not agricultural or commer-
cial toxins near and around the plants you intend to harvest. Again, it pays in the
long run to carefully observe the surrounding area and to ask a few questions.
Unless it is the root that you are using for food, you should never need to
uproot a plant, especially if it is only the leaves that you intend to eat. I have docu-
mented in my book Extreme Simplicity how I was able to extend the life of many
annual weeds by carefully pinching back the leaves that I wanted to eat, and then
allowing the plant to grow back before picking again. Even when I believe that
someone else will pull up the plant later, or plow the area, I still do not uproot the
plants on general principle. The root system is good for the soil and, if the plant’s
roots are left alone, it will continue to manufacture oxygen. Various insects and
birds might eat the bugs on the plant or its seeds. Let life continue.
When you are harvesting greens, snippers can be used, but usually nothing
is needed but your fingernails—maybe a sharp knife. Cut what you need, don’t
deplete an area, and move on.
Harvesting seeds is done when the plant is at the end of its annual cycle, but
there is still no reason to uproot the plant. When I harvest curly dock or lamb’s
quarter seed, I carefully try to get as much into my bag as possible. I know that
some seed is being scattered, and that’s a good thing for next season. I also know
that a few seeds are still on the stalk, and that’s a good thing for the birds in the
area. I nearly always harvest in an area of abundance. If there are very few speci-
mens there, my usual course of action is to simply leave them alone.
You will note when you read this text that I advise foragers to leave the wild
onions in the ground and to eat the greens. In cases of abundance, your thinning
10
12
Foraging_CA_3pp.indd 13
Amaranth 36 3.5 0.5 267 67 3.9 — 411 6,100 0.08 0.16 1.4 80 Leaf, raw
Carob 4.5 352 81 2.9 35 827 14 0.4 1.89 0.2 Pods
Cattail 8% 2% Rhizomes
Chia 20.2% 631 860 7.72 16 407 54 0.62 0.17 8.8 1.6 Seed
CHICORY TRIBE
Chicory 20 1.8 0.3 86 40 0.9 — 420 4,000 0.06 0.1 0.5 22 Leaf, raw
Dandelion 45 2.7 0.7 187 66 3.1 76 397 14,000 0.19 0.26 — 35 Leaf, raw
Sow thistle 20 2.4 0.3 93 35 3.1 — — 2,185 0.7 0.12 0.4 5 Leaf, raw
Chickweed
Dock 28 2.1 0.3 66 41 1.6 5 338 12,900 0.09 0.22 0.5 119 Leaf, raw
Fennel 28 2.8 0.4 100 51 2.7 — 397 3,500 — — — 31 Leaf, raw
Filaree — 2.5 — — — — — — 7,000 — — — — Leaf
300–500 2,000 to 300 to 700
Grass Leaf, raw
IU 2,800 IU mg
Lamb’s quarter 43 4.2 0.8 309 72 1.2 43 452 11,600 0.16 0.44 1.2 80 Leaf, raw
Mallow 37 4.4 0.6 249 69 12.7 — — 2,190 0.13 0.2 1.0 35 Leaf
Milkweed — 0.8 0.5 — — — — — — — — — — Leaf
Miner’s lettuce 10% RDA 22% RDA 33% RDA Leaf
MUSTARD FAMILY
Mustard 31 3 0.5 183 50 3 32 377 7,000 0.12 0.22 0.8 97 Leaf
Shepherd’s purse 33 4.2 0.5 208 86 4.8 — 394 1,554 0.08 0.17 0.4 36 Leaf
Watercress 19 2.2 0.3 120 60 0.2 41 330 3,191 0.12 0.2 43 Leaf
Nasturtium
Nettle 65 5.5 0.7 481 71 1.64 4 334 2,011 — 0.16 0.38 76 Leaf
New Zealand
19 2.2 0.3 58 46 2.6 159 795 4,300 0.04 0.17 0.6 30 Leaf, raw
spinach
65%
Oak (acorn flour) 6% 18% 43 103 1.21 0 712 51 0.1 0.1 2.3 0 Nut
carbohydrates
4/4/14 11:28 AM
Foraging_CA_3pp.indd 14
Plant Calories Protein Fat (g) Calcium Phosphorus Iron (mg) Sodium Potassium Vitamin A Thiamine Riboflavin Niacin Vit. C Part
(g) (mg) (mg) (mg) (mg) (IU) (mg) (mg) (mg) (mg)
ONION FAMILY
Chives 28 1.8 0.3 69 44 1.7 — 250 5,800 0.08 0.13 0.5 56 Leaf, raw
Garlic 137 6.2 0.2 29 202 1.5 19 529 — 0.25 0.08 0.5 15 Clove, raw
Young leaf,
Onion 36 1.5 0.2 51 39 1 5 231 2,000 0.05 0.05 0.4 32
raw
Passion fruit [per
31 151 3.8 66 831 1,650 71 Fruit
pound]
Pinyon 635 12 60.5 604 5.2 1.28 Nut
Prickly pear 42 0.5 0.1 20 28 0.3 2 166 60 0.01 0.03 0.4 22 Fruit, raw
Leaf &
Purslane 21 30 1.7 0.4 103 39 3.5 — — 2,500 0.03 0.1 0.5
stem, raw
Rose 162 1.6 169 61 1.06 4 429 4,345 0.16 1.3 426 Fruit, raw
SEAWEED
Dulse — — 3.2 296 267 — 2,085 8,060 — — — — — Leaf
Leaf
Irish moss — — 1.8 885 157 8.9 2,892 2,844 — — — — —
4/4/14 11:28 AM
Seaweeds
Seaweeds 15
Brown Algae
Phaeophyta (Approximately 1,000 species, including all kelps, rockweed, etc.)
Red Algae
Rhodophyta (The most abundant seaweed of the world, with over 4,000
species, including Irish moss, dulse, laver, etc.)
Use: Food (depending on species, some are eaten dried, cooked, raw, or pickled), nutri-
tion, utility
Range: Restricted to the ocean
Similarity to toxic species: See Cautions
Best time: Available year-round
Status: Relatively common
Tools needed: Bucket, gloves
16 Foraging California
Uses
Seaweeds are not only tasty (when prepared properly), but they are also very nutritious.
When I was originally researching seaweeds, I spoke with botanists, marine
biologists, and even a seaweed specialist. Some believed that all seaweeds—all
Seaweeds 17
Cautions
Here are some of the commonsense precautions you should take if you’re going
to try some seaweeds: Never eat any seaweed that has been sitting on the beach,
rotting and attracting flies. Examine the seaweed; never eat seaweed that has
some sort of foreign growth on it. And perhaps the hardest part of all this is that
you should not consume seaweed from polluted waters; unfortunately, much
of the Southern California coastline south of Malibu should be considered pol-
luted. This means that you have to use some common sense when collecting
seaweed for food, and you should thoroughly wash any seaweed that you intend
to eat.
18 Foraging California
Ferns 19
Bracken leaf.
BRACKEN
Pteridium aquilinum
Properties
Bracken can apparently be found worldwide. Ours can be found throughout
the state, in pastures, hillsides, wooded areas, and even in full sun. You’ll find
it most commonly on the north, shady side of hillsides or shady hillsides
where water seeps and little sun gets through the canopy of whatever larger
trees grow there.
20 Foraging California
Uses
The young shoots are the edible
portion, and they have the appear-
ance of the head of a fiddle, which
is where the common name “fid-
dlehead” comes from. The young
shoots will uncurl and grow into
the full fern fronds. These are
picked when young and can be
eaten raw or cooked. I like to toss
a few fiddleheads in salads when
they are in season; they impart a Bracken fiddlehead. Barbara Kolander
nutty flavor.
More commonly, fiddleheads are boiled or steamed and served with butter
or cheese. They are easy to recognize and have gained a resurgence of popularity
as more people are rediscovering wild foods. Bracken is also a good vegetable
to add to soups and stews and mixed dishes. Just carefully pinch off the tender,
unfolding top, and you can gently rub off the hair. Use as a nibble or cook it.
Do not eat the fully opened ferns.
Cautions
Researchers have identified a substance called ptaquiloside in bracken fern, a
known carcinogen. So is it safe to eat? It has been a food staple of Native Ameri-
cans for centuries, if not millennia, and the Japanese also enjoy bracken and
consider it one of the delicacies of spring. Although actual scientific data are
inconclusive, there is a higher rate of intestinal cancer among Native Americans
and Japanese, and this could be linked to the use of bracken fern. Livestock
have been known to be mildly poisoned by eating quantities of the raw bracken
ferns. Cooking is known to remove some of the toxins, though not necessarily
the ptaquiloside.
Despite this, there are many who are not so concerned about such incon-
clusive studies. For example, Steven Brill in his book Identifying and Harvesting
Ferns 21
22 Foraging California
Gymnosperms 23
MORMON TEA
Ephedra spp.
Use: Beverage
Range: The high and low deserts of Southern California
Similarity to toxic species: None, but be careful. Mormon tea looks like leafless sticks. Be
attentive. While we aren’t aware of a toxic look-alike, there very well could be a toxic plant
that has lost its leaves and therefore resembles Mormon tea.
Best time: Year-round
Status: Relatively widespread
Tools needed: Clippers
24 Foraging California
Properties
Mormon tea grows in the desert, often in the driest soils where there are few
other plants growing. It grows in sand drifts, in sand flats, amid the creosote and
the mesquite. It’s a real survivor.
And when most folks look at this very unassuming plant that rises only 1'–2'
out of the ground, they think they’re looking at some sticks of a dead plant. But
the plant is all sticks! It’s a gymnosperm, which makes it akin to the pine trees
and conifers. The plant produces tiny little cones, which actually flower, but you
have to look close—and at the right time—to see them. You’ll see 1–5 of these
cones per node.
There are 7 species of Ephedra in California, and frankly, after you’ve seen
one Ephedra, you’ll recognize them all, even though there is some variety between
the nuances of color, the overall size, and the way the “sticks” grow. A Mormon
tea aficionado will easily see those differences, but to the average person passing
through, they are all the same.
Uses
Often when camping out in California’s deserts where the Mormon tea is ubiq-
uitous, we have cut a handful of the stems and brewed them in a kettle over the
fire. It’s best when the kettle is covered so you don’t boil away all the flavor. The
resultant tea has a slight pinkish color and a subtle flavor. It can be compared to
a mild green tea, though without stimulants. It makes a good evening beverage,
which I prefer unsweetened so I can taste its subtle flavor. For those who prefer
sweetened teas, just a half teaspoon of honey is sufficient.
Gymnosperms 25
The name of this plant came from early Mormon settlers who drank a tea
from this plant because they scrupulously avoided stimulating drinks like coffee
or tea. But it turns out that Mormon tea may make you feel slightly stimulated.
And for generations before that, the Native Americans of the desert also made
a drink from this unassuming plant. Our desert species contains pseudoephed-
rine, a much weaker form of ephedrine found in species of Ephedra found in
China and elsewhere. I always liked the aroma of the tea, which reminds me
of the desert. Plus, if you drink it from a glass, you can observe the tea’s subtle,
pink color.
At home, I just put a small handful of the twigs into a stainless steel pot, add
about 2 cups of water, cover and boil. I let it cook for about 5 minutes and turn
off the heat. I pour the water into my cup, sometimes drinking it to alleviate
some allergies or minor breathing problems. Though I enjoy the subtle flavor of
just the Mormon tea, sometimes I will sweeten it with honey, sometimes with
date sugar.
26 Foraging California
PINE
Pinus spp.
Properties
Pines are fairly widespread trees, most commonly found in the higher eleva-
tions, but also throughout the desert regions (such as the pinyon pine). Not
counting subspecies, there are 19 species of Pinus in California (94 species in
the Northern Hemisphere).
Gymnosperms 27
Uses
Though there are a few potential foods with the pines, it is mostly the seeds that
will provide you with a good food. The pinyon pines are arguably the best, and
some of the other species have cones that yield flat seeds, or seeds too small to
bother with.
The cones mature and open in the fall. As the scales open sufficiently, the
seeds drop to the ground, where they can be collected if you’re there at the right
time and beat the animals to them. The seeds may drop over a 2–4 week period.
One of the best methods to harvest them is to lay sheets under the trees to catch
the seed so they’re not lost in the grass. The seeds are then shelled, eaten as a
snack, added to soups, or mashed and added to biscuits or pancakes.
As some suggest, I have taken the not-fully-mature cones and put them into
the fire and carefully watched them so they don’t burn. The idea is to open the scales
and then get the seeds; however, I do not recommend this method. It’s too easy to
burn the cone, the seeds, and maybe yourself, for seeds that are not really mature.
The tender needles can also be collected and brewed into a tea. Put the
needles in a covered container, and boil at a low temperature for a few minutes.
The tea is rich in vitamin C and very aromatic and tasty—that is, if you enjoy
the flavor of a Christmas tree, which is what you’ll smell like after drinking it.
It’s very good.
Yes, we have all heard of eating the cambium layer of pine trees. I once read
an article entitled “Spaghetti That Grows on Trees,” and it showed a woman who
had peeled off the cambium layer of the bark (the inner layer) and had suppos-
edly cooked strips of it to make a wild spaghetti. She was actually smiling in the
picture, which was my clue that she hadn’t actually eaten any of this “spaghetti.”
I regard this as a “survival food,” meaning it is really not worth all the work
involved unless you’re actually near starving. You most likely would not break
into a smile if you were eating such a fibrous and resinous food.
28 Foraging California
CALIFORNIA BAY
Umbellularia californica
Properties
California bay is primarily a riparian tree, though it can be found as a shrub in
the chaparral and occasionally in the urban areas as a landscaping tree.
30 Foraging California
The leaves are very reminiscent of a lanceolate eucalyptus leaf, except bay
leaves are darker, and their aroma (especially when crushed) is quite distinctive.
The young wood has a darker hue, and the bark becomes smoother and lighter
as the plant matures.
The nuts are first green, and then they darken before they fall to the ground,
somewhat resembling an olive. Once the mushy flesh is removed, there is a thin
shell and then the meat inside.
Uses
Collect the nuts from the ground in the autumn. Remove the flesh and thin
shells and dry or roast to make them more palatable. You could also try boiling
the shelled nuts. Author Paul Campbell bakes the bay nuts until they are dark.
The flavor is a bit bitter, but reminiscent of chocolate!
The nuts could also be dried and ground into flour and used in various pas-
try products.
The leaves can be used fresh or dried to make a pleasant drink. Add a leaf
to your canteen of water, shake it, and enjoy. Or add a leaf to your cup, fill
with hot water, and then drink when it’s cool enough. It’s a delicious tea. The
Magnoliids 31
Cautions
This is not the same leaf as the European bay more typically sold in the spice sec-
tions of stores. California bay is much stronger, and some people have a negative
reaction (e.g., headaches) to using the leaves for tea. Try just a little at first to
make sure you have no reaction.
There are people who have reported headaches after crushing a fresh leaf and
holding it close to their nostril to smell the fragrance. Be cautious even when
smelling the leaf.
32 Foraging California
ELDERBERRY
Sambucus spp.
Use: Flowers for tea and food; berries for “raisins,” jam, jelly, juice
Range: Elder can be found throughout the state in chaparral, mountains, desert, urban
fringes, and generally in most environments.
Similarity to toxic species: See Cautions
Best time: Early spring for flowers; early summer for fruit
Status: Common
Tools needed: Clipper for flowers, clippers and good sturdy basket or bucket for berries
Forager note: If you don’t want your fruit to get all smashed and
crushed, collect in a basket or bucket (instead of a bag), and don’t
pack too many into the bucket.
34 Foraging California
RECIPE
Elder Flower Vinegar
Fill a jar with elder flowers (remove as much of the green stems as you can), then pour
in apple cider vinegar or rice vinegar until you reach the top. Close the lid tightly and
shake a couple of times daily. Taste after a couple of weeks. Makes a wonderful vinegar
with floral flavors.
—recipe from Pascal Baudar
Eudicots 35
Uses
The dark purple berries, rich in vitamin A with fair amounts of potassium and
calcium, can be eaten raw (but see Caution below), or mashed and blended with
applesauce for a unique dessert, especially if you are using wild apples. The ber-
ries can also be used for making wines, jellies, jams, and pies. (The red berries are
not recommended for food, some having toxic qualities.)
Fellow forager and wild food experimenter Pascal Baudar likes to dry and
powder the fruit, and sprinkle it over ice cream!
The whole flower cluster can be gathered, dipped in batter, and fried, pro-
ducing a wholesome pancake. Try dipping the flower clusters in a batter of the
sweet yellow cattail pollen (see Cattail) and frying it like pancakes. It’s delicious!
Another way to use the flowers is to remove them from the clusters and the
little stems, and then mix with flour in a proportion of 50-50 for baking pastries,
breads, biscuits, and more.
The flowers also make a traditional Appalachian tea that was said to be useful
for colds, fevers, and headaches.
36 Foraging California
This simple sauce goes well with any game (such as duck), but feel free to try it with
chicken too!
1 pound elderberries (freeze the clusters first, crush them lightly with your hands, and
the berries will fall easily)
1 large sweet onion or 7–8 scallions
2
⁄3 cup red wine vinegar
3
⁄4 cup sugar or honey
1 teaspoon grated ginger
A couple of cloves
1
⁄2 teaspoon of salt, or to taste
Place the berries in a pot and squeeze them with your hand first to release the juice.
Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil for 10 minutes. Strain the liquid
through a sieve.
Return the liquid to the pot, bring to a simmer, and reduce until you have achieved
the right consistency (like a commercial steak sauce). You can prepare it in advance
and keep it in the fridge for many days.
—recipe from Pascal Baudar
The long straight stems of elder have a soft pith, and have historically been
hollowed-out and used for such things as pipe stems, blow guns, flutes, and
straws for stoking a fire.
Cautions
Be sure to cook the fruit before eating it, and avoid the red berries entirely. While
not everyone will get sick from eating the dark purple or black berries raw, they
can cause severe nausea in some people. Therefore, cook all fruit before using for
drinks or other dishes.
Do not consume the leaves, as this will result in sickness.
Eudicots 37
Properties
Though there are 50 species worldwide of Tetragonia, this is the only species that
you’ll find in California. It is not a native, but comes from the Southern Hemisphere.
In the wild, you will find New Zealand spinach along the Pacific Coast in
the sand, mostly in sandy dunes. These beach plants often grow beyond the
38 Foraging California
high-tide line. The alternate leaves are fleshy and succulent and resemble com-
mon spinach or lamb’s quarter, though the plant is weak stemmed and sprawls
in the sand, rarely rising more than a few inches off the ground. The individual
leaves are rarely more than 2" long.
There are sessile flowers, but they are inconspicuous. The little nutlike seeds
fall on the ground around the plant. These can be collected for propagation.
Because the plant is easily cultivated, it can also be found in yards and
old gardens throughout the state. The plant survives fairly well even when left
alone, assuming the soil is at least of average richness, with some shade and
some moisture.
Uses
New Zealand spinach is one of Forager note: If you allow the
those highly versatile plants with New Zealand spinach to grow in
mild-tasting leaves that can be your garden, it will produce spinach
used in a broad selection of dishes. greens forever. To harvest it, just
Think of it as a perennial spinach pinch off the new growth.
with leaves more succulent than
Eudicots 39
regular spinach. The leaves are a bit stronger than regular spinach, though most
people will even enjoy it as a trail nibble.
The tender leaves are great in a simple salad or mixed with other greens. They
can be used in stir-fries, soup dishes, and cooked with eggs. If you try cooking
the leaves like spinach, try drinking the water. It’s a tasty broth and can be used
as the basis for a soup stock.
If you don’t live right on the coast, you can still get the seeds or live plants
(from a nursery) and grow this in your self-sufficiency garden. Unlike regular
spinach, the New Zealand spinach is a perennial that grows and spreads and
reseeds itself. If you’re someone who wants a food-producing garden that more
or less takes care of itself, this is the plant to have. Plant it once, take care of it,
and have food for decades.
RECIPE
The Moon Sets in the Malibu Lagoon
Finely chop 1 cup of New Zealand spinach leaves. Add 1 tablespoon tuna fish. Top with
an oil-and-vinegar dressing to taste.
40 Foraging California
AMARANTH
Amaranthus spp.
Use: Seeds for soup or pastry and bread products; leaf can be used raw or cooked
Range: Amaranth is widespread. Though it is most common in the disturbed soils of farms,
gardens, fields, and urban lots, you can usually find some amaranth in the deserts and in
open areas where there is some moisture, even if that moisture is seasonal.
Similarity to toxic species: Some ornamentals resemble amaranth. Some toxic plants super-
ficially resemble the amaranth plants. Individual jimsonweed leaves have been confused
for amaranth leaves. Generally, once the amaranth begins to flower and go to seed, this
confusion is diminished.
Best time: Spring is best for the leaves; late fall for the seeds.
Status: Common
Tools needed: You’ll need a tight-weave bag for collecting the seeds.
Eudicots 41
Uses
Amaranth is a versatile plant with edible parts available throughout its grow-
ing season.
The young leaves and tender stems of late winter and spring can be eaten
raw in salads, but because there is often a hint of bitterness, they are best mixed
with other greens. Young and tender stems are boiled in many parts of the world
and served with butter or cheese as a simple vegetable. Older leaves get bitter and
should be boiled into a spinach-like dish or added to dishes like soups, stews,
and stir-fries.
In Mexico, leaves are sometimes dried and made into a flour, which is added
to tamales and other dishes.
42 Foraging California
Historical note: The seed and leaf of this plant played a key part of the diet in preco-
lonial Mexico. The seeds were mixed with honey or blood and shaped into images of
their gods, and these images were then eaten as a communion. Sound familiar? After
the Spanish invaded Mexico, they made it illegal to grow the amaranth plant, with
the justification that it was a part of “pagan rituals.”
Eudicots 43
FENNEL
Foeniculum vulgare
Use: Leaf and stalk raw or cooked; seed for tea or seasoning
Range: Widespread as an invasive species along the coast, and common locally in urban
lots and fields
Similarity to toxic species: Fennel has needlelike leaves and smells like licorice, so you really
shouldn’t confuse it with anything toxic. However, this family contains some poisonous and
toxic members, so be certain you’re picking fennel before eating it.
Best time: Spring is best for the young shoots; collect the seeds in summer or fall.
Status: Widespread and common in certain localities
Tools needed: None
44 Foraging California
Properties
Fennel is the only species of the Foeniculum genus.
Fennel is a perennial from Europe that is very common along the Pacific
Coast and in wet areas. It is very abundant in certain places and generally con-
sidered invasive.
The plant begins to produce its leaves in the spring. The finely dissected
leaves give the plant a ferny appearance. The base of each leaf clasps the stalk with
a flared base, similar to the base of a celery stalk. The unmistakable characteristic
is the strong licorice aroma of the crushed leaf.
In winter and early spring, the plants begin to appear. They first establish
a ferny, bushy 2'–3' broad base. By spring and early summer, the flower stalks
rise to a height of 6' (higher in ideal conditions). The entire plant has a slightly
bluish-green cast due to a thin waxy coating on the stalks and leaves.
The yellow flowers form in large, distinctive umbels.
Uses
Young fennel leaves and peeled stalks are great to eat as a trail snack when you’re
thirsty and hungry. When the plant first sprouts up in the spring, you can eat
Eudicots 45
46 Foraging California
Chicory
Cichorium intybus
Eudicots 47
Properties
There are 6 species worldwide in the Cichorium genus. Chicory is one of only 2
species of Cichorium in California; the other is endive, which is not common and
is typically found near gardens or farms where it goes wild.
The chicory plant grows upright 3'–5' tall typically with prominent sky-blue
flowers. Look carefully at the flower—the tip of each petal is divided into 5 teeth,
typical of the Chicory Tribe of the Sunflower family. Each leaf will produce a bit
of milky sap when cut. The older upper leaves on the stalk very characteristically
clasp the stem at the base. This is a perennial from Europe that is now widespread
in parts of California, mostly the north. It is found in fields, along roadsides, in
gardens, in farms, and in disturbed soils.
Uses
This is another of those incredibly nutritious plants with multiple uses. The
leaves, preferably the very young leaves, can be added to salads; if you don’t
48 Foraging California
Eudicots 49
prickly Lettuce
Lactuca serriola and others
Properties
Though there are about 100 species of Lactuca worldwide, we have only 7 spe-
cies in California, and only 2 are native (L. tatarica and L. biennis). L. serriola, a
European native, is probably the most abundant and widespread.
50 Foraging California
Prickly lettuce is actually a very common annual plant that you can find just
about anywhere, hidden in plain view. Yes, you’ve seen it, but it likely blended
into the landscape. It’s mostly an urban “weed,” though occasionally you’ll find
it in the near wilderness surrounding urban areas. It’s originally from Europe.
Prickly lettuce rises with its erect stalk to generally no more than 3'. The young
leaves are lanceolate with generally rounded ends. They are tender; if you tear a leaf,
you’ll see white sap. The plant grows upright with a straight stem that develops
soft spines as it gets older. As the plant matures, you’ll note that there is a stiff line
of hairs on the bottom midrib of the leaf. The leaf attachment is either sessile or
clasping the stem. And the leaf shape can be quite variable, from a simple oblong
lanceolate leaf to one that is divided into pinnately lobed segments. Despite this,
after you’ve seen a few prickly lettuce plants, you should readily recognize it.
The flowers are small and dandelion-like, pale yellow, with about a dozen ray
flowers per head. As with dandelion, these mature into small seeds attached to a
little cottony tuft.
Uses
Prickly lettuce sounds like something you’d really like in a salad, but, in fact, you
need to find the very youngest leaves for salad, or they get too tough and bitter.
Eudicots 51
Very young leaves (before the plant has sent up its flower stalk) are good added
to your salads and sandwiches.
The leaves can also be collected and mixed into stir-fries, or added to soups
and any sort of stew in which you can add wild greens.
But let’s not be fooled by the name “lettuce.” Yes, it’s botanically a relative
of the cultivar you buy in the supermarket, but the leaves are significantly bitter
as they age. And the rib on the underside of each older leaf develops these stiff
spines that make any similarity to lettuce very distant. This means you’ll be using
this plant raw only when it’s very young; and when it’s flowering and mature, you
probably won’t be using it at all.
Still, it’s food, it’s edible, and it grows everywhere. You should get to know
this plant and its relatives, and learn to recognize it early in the growing season.
I’ve used it when very young in sandwiches, salads, soups, stews, and egg
dishes. I’ve even used the small root when I was experimenting with coffee sub-
stitutes. Because this is related to dandelion and sow thistle, I figured it would
work well as a coffee substitute, and it does, but there’s very little root to this
plant.
52 Foraging California
SOW THISTLE
Sonchus oleraceus and others
Use: Mostly the leaves, raw or cooked; root can be cooked and eaten; flower buds pickled
Range: Most common in urban areas, gardens, and farms, but also found in most
environments
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring is best, though the older leaves of late summer are still useful.
Status: Common
Tools needed: Trowel for digging
Properties
There are 55 known species of Sonchus worldwide. Four of these species are
found in California, and all are originally from Europe. Though the common
sow thistle (S. oleraceus) is most often used for food, the other 3 look very similar
and can be used likewise. However, when you see S. asper, the prickly sow thistle,
Eudicots 53
Uses
Though sow thistle may not be quite as nutritious as dandelion, it’s definitely
tastier, and the leaves are more tender. You can take the leaves of sow thistle and
include them in salads; and even when the plant is old, there is only a hint of
bitterness. The flavor and texture are very much like lettuce that you might grow
in your garden.
The leaves and tender stems are
also ideally added to soups and stews,
or simply cooked by themselves and Forager note: Sow thistle
served like spinach greens. They are is one of our most common wild
tasty on their own, or you can try dif- foods. It is so widespread that
ferent seasonings (peppers, butter, it can be found in nearly every
cheese) that you enjoy. environment, even in the cracks
The root can be eaten or made into
of the urban sidewalks.
a coffee substitute, as is commonly
54 Foraging California
For a dish that resembles asparagus, take just the tender sow thistle stems in the
springtime (the leaves can be removed and added to other dishes). Boil or steam them
until tender—it doesn’t take long—and then lay the stems on your plate like aspara-
gus. Add some cheese or butter, and it will make a delicious dish. But this is a dish that
you’ll only enjoy in the spring—timing is everything.
done with two of its relatives, dandelion and chicory. To eat the roots, gather the
young ones and boil until tender. Season as you wish and serve. The roots could
also be washed and added to soups and stews.
For a coffee substitute, gather and wash the roots, and then dry thoroughly.
Grind them into a coarse meal, roast to a light shade of brown, and then percolate
into a caffeine-free beverage. Is it good? It’s all a matter of personal preference.
Eudicots 55
DANDELION
Taraxacum officinale
56 Foraging California
Properties
The Taraxacum genus has 60 species worldwide. In California, there are 4 spe-
cies of Taraxacum; 2 are native, and 2 are from Europe. The common dandelion
(T. officinale) is from Europe. California dandelion (T. californicum) and horned
dandelion (T. ceratophorum) are our native dandelions.
Even people who say they don’t know how to identify any plants can prob-
ably identify a dandelion in a field. The characteristic yellow composite flower
sits atop the narrow stem, which arises directly from the taproot. There is one
yellow flower per flower stalk. These mature into the round puffy seed heads that
children like to blow on and make a wish.
These grow in fields, in lawns, in vacant lots, and along trails. They tend to
prefer disturbed soils, though I have seen them in the wilderness.
The leaves are dark green, toothed on the margins, and each arises from the
root. The name “dandelion” actually comes from the French dent de leon, mean-
ing “tooth of the lion,” for the jagged edges of the leaves.
Uses
My first exposure to dandelion was at about age 7 when my father would pay me
a nickel to dig them out of our front-yard lawn and throw them into the trash.
Eudicots 57
58 Foraging California
Young Brassica
Mustard
Brassica spp.
Use: Leaves raw or cooked; seeds for spice; flowers for garnish
Range: Fields, urban areas, and chaparral hillsides
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring for greens and flowers
Status: Widespread
Tools needed: None
Eudicots 59
Uses
Mustard is one of the first wild foods that I began to eat, partly because it is so
common, and partly because it is so easy to identify. I recall seeing a line drawing
of it in Bradford Angier’s Free for the Eating book, which didn’t look anything
like the green plant with yellow flowers that I was seeing all over Southern Cali-
fornia. Angier used a picture of the mature plant gone to seed, and I was seeing
the young spring plant. They were both right, but it demonstrated the need to
always learn plants by seeing them in the field.
I began with the young mustard greens, chewing the raw leaves and enjoy-
ing the spicy flavor, despite the fine hairs covering the leaves (not all Brassicas
are hairy). I then moved on to
chopping them up and add-
ing to salads, which was good. Forager note: This is a hardy plant.
I then began to boil the leaves I have managed to find some mustard
and serve to my family, with greens even during droughts when no
butter. Everyone enjoyed it, other greens are available.
even my father.
60 Foraging California
Eventually, I found that I could add mustard greens to just about any dish:
soups, mixed salads, omelettes, stir-fries, potatoes, you name it! The fact that I
could collect these greens year-round in California was also a big plus.
The flower buds and flowers have also been a good trail treat, and make a
good colorful garnish to salads and soups. I give them to children and tell them
that they taste like broccoli, and most of the children say they enjoy the flowers.
The tender tops of the stems with the flower buds can also be snapped off
the upper parts of the plant, steamed, and served with some sauce or cheese. The
flavor is just like the Chinese broccoli that you buy at the farmers’ markets.
Lastly, you can come back to this annual plant in late fall, when the leaves
are dried up and the tops are just tan-colored stems with small seedpods. Collect
the pods in a bag (a pillowcase is ideal), and break them all up. The seeds go to
the bottom of the bag, and you can discard the pod shell. The seeds are then used
as a seasoning for various dishes calling for mustard, or you can try making your
own mustard from the brown seeds.
RECIPE
Pascal’s Mustard
Fellow forager Pascal Baudar takes the pungent flowers of regular black mustard and
grinds them while fresh, adding white wine and vinegar to taste. He thus produces a
mustard condiment from the flowers, not the seed as is the usual custom.
Eudicots 61
Sea Rocket
Cakile edentula and C. maritima
Use: Greens, sprouts, and flowers; ideally cooked, but can be used raw sparingly
Range: Restricted to the sandy beaches along the entire California coast
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring, but can be picked year-round
Status: Somewhat common
Tools needed: None
Properties
There are 7 species of Cakile worldwide, found on the beach shores of North
America, Africa, and Europe. On California’s west coast, we have 2 species of
Cakile, both introduced.
In California, sea rocket is widespread along the coast, growing in the sand
in the upper areas of the beach, usually just beyond high tide in the dunes.
When you see how well these plants have naturalized, it is hard to believe that
they are not natives. C. maritima is the one that you see most commonly on the
California beaches, and it is native to Europe. C. edentula is also found in and
is native to the East Coast of the United States. The leaves are very much like a
62 Foraging California
Uses
The leaves are strongly flavored
like horseradish, and generally
you would not want to include the
mature leaves in a salad. But boil-
ing tones them down quite a bit
so they are then tastier and more
palatable. The boiled leaves can be Sea rocket pods and flowers. Rick Adams
added for flavor to soup broths or
to dishes of mixed greens. In gen-
eral, you’d probably not want to serve them alone as a cooked green unless you
changed the water once and then served them with some onions and probably
a savory sauce.
Still, they can turn an otherwise bland meal into quite a treat. They will help
to flavor clam chowder as well as other soups and stews. They will really liven up
stale old MREs.
RECIPE
We have finely diced the sea rocket leaves into nearly a paste and mixed in a very small
amount of oil and vinegar, creating a passable “wasabi.”
Eudicots 63
64 Foraging California
Indian cabbage
Calanthus inflatus
Properties
There are 17 species of Calanthus in the Southwest and Mexico. In California,
we find 16 species, all native.
Indian cabbage, also called desert candle, is a distinctive plant when you
encounter it in the open sandy areas of the desert and in the dry hillsides. Most
often you will find it in the Mojave Desert in the spring after a winter of average
to above-average rain. In years of drought, you will not see this plant.
Eudicots 65
Uses
The desert Indians were known to
have used the leaves and tender
stems for food. I have nibbled the
young leaves and, though they were
certainly edible, they were not ideal
for salads unless they were collected
very young in the year.
The flavor is improved by cook-
Indian cabbage flower. Otto Gasser, San Emigdio
ing. I have added the younger leaves Mountains Region of California
to cooked soups and stews and
found them delicious, though some
of my camping partners said the leaves were just “tolerable.” The leaves should
be rinsed of sand, diced, and then cooked with egg dishes, stir-fries, and other
vegetable dishes.
Both the leaves and the tip of the flower stalk can be used.
66 Foraging California
Though this may seem like a marginal food, you should keep in mind that
food is not always very common or widespread in the desert. It’s good to know as
many foods from the desert as possible. And with this one, timing is everything.
You will find the plant in the greatest abundance after a wet winter and spring.
Then, once the heat of summer is upon us, the plants quickly dry up and disap-
pear. In some seasons, you may not see any of this plant at all.
Eudicots 67
Shepherd’s Purse
Capsella bursa-pastoris
Properties
There are 4 species of Capsella worldwide, and only this species is found in
California.
Shepherd’s purse is most easily identified by its flat, heart-shaped seedpods.
They are unmistakeable! The stalks rise about 1' or so tall. The little clusters of
white flowers, sometimes tinged with a bit of purple, are formed in racemes
along the stalk. These then mature into the heart-shaped pods. Trouble is, by the
68 Foraging California
Uses
The flavor of shepherd’s purse leaves are mild
and could be used in just about any recipe,
such as salad, sandwiches, soup, eggs, etc.
However, they seem best when used in salads.
Dr. Enari used to poll his students on
which plant tasted the best of the many wild
plants he let them try. Consistently in his
polls, shepherd’s purse was rated the best. It Heart-shaped seed pods of shepherd’s
is actually somewhat bland and peppery, but purse
not too peppery, and the texture is mild. Even
finicky eaters will like these leaves.
It’s also very nutritious. About a half cup of the leaves (100 g) contains 208
mg of calcium, 86 mg of phosphorus, 40 mg of sodium, 394 mg of potassium,
36 mg of vitamin C, and 1,554 international units (IUs) of vitamin A.
Additionally, some Native Americans ground the seed into a meal and
used it in drinks and as a flour for
various dishes.
Dr. Enari told his students that
this was the best plant to stop nose-
bleeds. Boil the plant, put a cotton
ball into the water, and then apply it
to the nose. It turns out that many
people have used this plant medici-
nally, especially to stop internal or
external bleeding.
Eudicots 69
Watercress
Nasturtium officinale
Use: Leaves raw or cooked in salads, stir-fries, soup, etc.; can be dried for use as a seasoning
Range: Restricted to the edges of lakes and streams
Similarity to toxic species: None! However, in one case of death by poison hemlock, 2 camp-
ers in the Santa Cruz area cooked and ate poison hemlock. Both became sick quickly, and
one managed to walk out and get help; the other camper was found dead when rescuers
returned. The survivor said that they thought the plant they ate was watercress. Though
watercress and poison hemlock can grow in the same wet areas, they are very different-
looking plants. Never eat any plant until you have made positive identification.
Best time: Although the plant can be collected at any time, it’s best in summer before the
plant flowers.
Status: Somewhat common along streams
Tools needed: None
Properties
There are 5 species of Nasturtium worldwide. Two of these species are found in
California, and both are considered natives.
70 Foraging California
Uses
Watercress was one of the very first wild plants that I learned how to identify and
began to use. It is not only common throughout waterways in California but
throughout the world.
I have always enjoyed making a salad of mixed greens, including watercress.
But I don’t usually make a salad with only watercress because it’s a bit too spicy
for my taste. A few raw watercress leaves are also tasty in sandwiches.
For soup, just chop the entire plant (tender stems and leaves) fine, and add
it to a water- or milk-based soup. Or you can add chopped watercress leaves to a
miso base. Watercress makes a delicious soup.
Eudicots 71
Cautions
If you have doubts about the purity of the water where you get your watercress,
you should not eat it raw, but boil it first and then use it in a cooked dish.
Always wash the watercress before using. It grows right in the water, and you
want to remove any dirt or other undesirables that may be clinging to the plant.
RECIPE
Saturday Night Special
Gently sauté half an onion bulb in a skillet with butter; you could substitute a handful
of wild or garden onion greens. Quickly add at least 1 cup chopped watercress leaves
and stems, and cook gently until all is tender. Add a dash of soy sauce and serve.
72 Foraging California
Radish, Wild
Raphanus sativus and R. raphanistrum
Use: All tender portions of this plant—leaf, stems, pods, flowers—can be used raw, pickled,
or cooked. Roots generally are not used.
Range: Fields, wet areas, farmlands, vacant lots, disturbed soils
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring into summer is best.
Status: Common
Tools needed: Clippers
Properties
There are 3 species of Raphanus. Two are found in California, and both are
natives of the Mediterranean area.
Each young leaf of wild radish is lyrately pinnately divided, meaning that
there is one large end lobe and smaller side lobes or segments to the leaf: It
resembles a guitar! When the young leaves of wild radish are newly emerging,
it would be easy to confuse the leaves with those of mustard (Brassica spp.).
Eudicots 73
74 Foraging California
RECIPE
Pickled Radish Pods
Pickled radish pods were very popular in the Victorian era. It’s a neat way to preserve
them, and they’re wonderful in salads, sandwiches, or side dishes. It’s also very easy
to make.
For this recipe, we use 1⁄2-pint jars. Simply fill up the jar with as many (clean) radish
pods as you can, and in each jar place the following:
2 garlic cloves
1
⁄2 teaspoon Italian or French spice mix (you can also use dill or other spices of your liking)
1 medium-spicy dehydrated chile (just because I like some heat)
1
⁄3 California bay leaf (or 1⁄2 regular bay leaf )
1
⁄2 teaspoon sea salt
In a small saucepan, make a pickling solution composed of 3 parts raw apple cider
vinegar and 2 parts white wine. Bring the solution to a boil and pour it into the jars
over the radish pods and spices. Close the lids and place the jars in the fridge. Wait 2–3
weeks before consuming.
If you know how to can and want to preserve them outside the fridge (shelf sta-
ble), use the water-bath method and boil for 15 minutes.
—recipe from Pascal Baudar
Eudicots 75
Hedge Mustard
Sisymbrium irio (also called London rocket) and S. officinale
76 Foraging California
RECIPE
Screaming at the Moon
Simmer the leaves and garlic with the water in a covered pot. When tender, add the
miso and cook another 5 minutes. Serves 2–3.
Eudicots 77
Obviously, this hose hasn’t been used much! Sisymbrium grows through it.
78 Foraging California
Prickly Pear
Opuntia spp.
Use: Young pads for food, raw or cooked; fruits for desserts and juices; seeds for flour
Range: Typically found in the desert regions, but also commonly found in chaparral, dry
fields, along the coast, and commonly cultivated
Similarity to toxic species: Occasionally people have experienced sickness after eating cer-
tain varieties. In some cases, this is due to a negative reaction to the mucilaginous quality;
there may be other chemical reasons as well. So despite this being a very commonly used
food for millennia, we suggest you start with very little and monitor your reactions.
Eudicots 79
Properties
There are 12 species of Opuntia in California, not counting varieties; all but 2 are
native. We are mostly concerned with the prickly pears—the oval-shaped flat-
padded cacti—because these are the easiest to harvest, prepare, and eat.
The prickly pear cacti are by no means the only variety of cactus commonly
observed in California, but they are probably one of the most common cacti in,
and on the fringes of, the urban areas. The prickly pear cacti are readily recog-
nized by their flat oval pads, called nopales in Spanish, with their spines evenly
spaced over their surface. The cacti flower by summer, and the fruits mature by
August and September in a variety of colors, ranging from green (less common)
to yellow, orange, red, and purple. Each of these fruits has a different flavor and
was traditionally used in different recipes.
Nearly all species of Opuntia have a long history of being used for food. The
key to using this plant is to find a way to harvest and clean it without getting
the spines—and the finer glochids at the base of each spine—in your fingers.
The pads are generally easier to harvest, though I still recommend using metal
tongs. The very young, still glossy-green pads can be scraped with a sharp knife
to remove the spines and glochids, then rinsed before using in a recipe. There
is a variety with recessed spines that I simply leave alone. The fruits tend to
have more spines, and I collect them with metal tongs. Still using the tongs, I
turn each fruit over in a flame—about 10 seconds—to burn off the spines and
glochids. Then I cut them in half, remove the fruit inside, and eat, preserve, or
process it in some way.
Uses
There are several ways to get a meal from the prickly pear cactus: young pad, old
pad, fruit, or seed.
80 Foraging California
Whether you pick your pads from the wild or grow cactus in your backyard,
the new growth of spring offers one of the more readily available foods with the
least amount of work. Remember, the cacti all have some spines and the tiny
little glochids, so you’ll need to be careful whether you have the very young or
the very old pads. And some varieties are less spiny than others; these are the
ones I choose.
When you get the very young pads of spring, they are still bright green and
the tough outer layer hasn’t yet developed. Carefully pick, and then you can
quickly burn off the young spines, or thoroughly scrape each side to remove
all spines and glochids. Then you can slice or dice, and sauté them to remove
much of the liquid and sliminess of the cacti. Cook off the liquid produced by
the cooking cacti, and then add eggs, potatoes, or even tofu for a delicious stew.
Older pads are also edible, but their flavor and texture are different. If you sim-
ply cut a large prickly pear pad in half, you’ll see that the fiber is all toward the
surface. You can carefully slice off the outer fiber layer and use the insides. The
flavor and texture resemble squash, and you can use these older cactus pads in
soups, stews, or the more traditional manner of cooking with eggs.
Eudicots 81
82 Foraging California
Chickweed
Stellaria media
Use: The leaves are best raw in salads but can also be cooked in various dishes, or dried and
powdered to make into pasta.
Range: Scattered widely where the conditions are ideal: moist and shady areas in the urban
setting, mountain canyons, and along rivers
Similarity to toxic species: Also growing with chickweed is scarlet pimpernel, which looks a
lot like chickweed except that it has orange flowers and lacks the line of hairs on the stem.
You may also find young common spurge (Euphorbia peplus) in chickweed patches, which
superficially resembles the chickweed, but spurge doesn’t have the line of white hairs, its
Eudicots 83
Properties
There are 190 species of Stel-
laria worldwide, with 13 of those
found in California, 9 of which are
native; the other 4 are introduced
from Europe. Common chick-
weed is one of the 4 introduced
species of Stellaria that is now very
common in California. In fact, it
can now be found worldwide. Young chickweed. Note flower buds.
Chickweed is common in
urban yards, in shady fields, and
in mountain canyons. It is a short-lived annual that shrivels up by summer when
the soil is dry.
Chickweed is a low-growing, sprawling annual that first arises after the
winter rains. The thin stem will grow up to 1' long, and, upon close inspection,
you’ll see a line of fine white hairs along one side of the stem. The oval-shaped
leaves, arranged in pairs along the stem, come to a sharp tip. The flowers are
white and 5-petaled, though it may appear to have 10 petals because each
flower has a deep cleft.
Uses
Chickweed is probably best used as a salad plant. In a thick patch of chickweed,
one can cut off a handful of the stems just above the root. Then you just rinse the
leaves, dice, and add salad dressing.
The plant can also be cooked in soups and stews. For those who are more
adventurous, the entire aboveground chickweed plant can be dried, powdered,
and mixed 50-50 with wheat flour, and then run through a pasta machine. The
result is a green pasta with the flavor of chickweed.
84 Foraging California
Although chickweed is found in common city sidewalks, it’s best to gather it in the
wild, away from pesticides. As homage to its humble origins, I call this my Sidewalk
Soup. It’s simple and low-fat (you can omit the pancetta or bacon, and it’s still amazing)
and has a surprising depth of flavor reminiscent of spring peas and pea shoots. This is
my version of “wild split pea soup.”
4–5 tablespoons diced pancetta (or you can use bacon)
1 medium onion, diced
1 stalk celery
1 carrot
1 teaspoon olive oil, or as needed
4–5 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 small California laurel bay leaf
1 small California white sage leaf
2 teaspoons French or Italian herbs (I like oregano, thyme, parsley)
1 small potato, cubed
6 cups packed washed and chopped chickweed
1 teaspoon raw apple cider vinegar (to keep mixture green)
Olive oil, salt, and pepper to taste
In a heated stockpot, sauté the pancetta or bacon until crisp then add onion, celery,
and carrots and sauté until translucent. You may need to add a bit of olive oil to the
bottom of the pan; start with 1 teaspoon. Add the garlic and spices and continue to
sauté until just fragrant. Add the cubed potato; it will serve to thicken the soup once
pureed. Add the chickweed (save a handful for garnish) and add enough water to
cover the chickweed with an inch of water. Cover and bring to a boil. Add the vinegar,
then reduce to a light simmer for about 20–30 minutes.
Once slightly cooled, transfer to food processor and puree the mixture. Serve with
tender, crisp chickweed as garnish. Delish!
—recipe from Mia Wasilevich
Because chickweed grows close to the ground with its fine stems, it is com-
mon to find other plants growing in chickweed patches, so you need to make
certain you are only collecting chickweed. We’ve seen poison hemlock growing
within chickweed patches.
86 Foraging California
Orach
Atriplex californica
Use: Leaves can be used raw, if palatable, or cooked; dried for seasoning
Range: Restricted to the California beaches; can be cultivated
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring
Status: Somewhat common
Tools needed: None
Eudicots 87
Properties
The Atriplex genus has about 250 species worldwide, all generally known as salt-
bush or orach. There are 43 species of Atriplex in California, not including vari-
eties. Most are native.
When most folks see orach for the first time, they think it is a lamb’s quar-
ter plant with pointy leaves. Orach
really does resemble lamb’s quarter,
except that it is pretty restricted to
the coastal regions. Look closely at
each leaf. The color is very much
like lamb’s quarter, except that the
leaf has 2 bottom barbs that make it
look very much like an arrowhead.
Also, look closely at the young
leaves, and you will note that the
very edge of the leaf has the red tint
that you often see in the stems of
lamb’s quarter.
The plant is found along the
beaches and in the back bays. It
grows about 2' tall and has incon-
spicuous flowers. Orach leaf. Rick Adams
88 Foraging California
Eudicots 89
Use: Leaves used raw or cooked; seeds added to soups or bread batter; leaves dried for
seasoning
Range: Prefers disturbed soils of farms, gardens, hillsides, fields, along trails, etc.
Similarity to toxic species: Western black nightshade leaves can be confused with lamb’s
quarter leaves when very young. Be sure to look for the white mealy (and “sparkly”) under-
side of lamb’s quarter and for the streak of red in the axils.
Best time: Spring for the leaves; late summer for the seeds
Status: Common and widespread
Tools needed: None
Forager note: Everyone should get to know lamb’s quarter. Not only
is it widespread in California, but it can also be found throughout the
world. I once spent a week in the mountains eating only lamb’s quarter
(salad, soup, fried, boiled). It is a plant that I can find even during a
drought when nothing else is available.
90 Foraging California
Uses
Lamb’s quarter is a versatile plant that can be used in many recipes. The young
tender leaves can be cut into small pieces and used in a salad. The leaves and
tender stems can be cooked like spinach and seasoned for a tasty dish, and the
cooking water makes a delicious broth. The leaves can also be added to soups,
egg dishes, quiche, and even stir-fries with other vegetables.
In California, lamb’s quarter will go to seed by late summer, and seeds from
the dead plant are harvestable for several months. The seed is an excellent source
of calcium, phosphorus, and potassium, according to the USDA. Collect the
seeds by hand and place in a large salad bowl, then rub them between your hands
to remove the chaff. Next, winnow them by letting handfuls drop into the salad
bowl as you gently blow off the chaff. The seeds are then added to soup and rice
dishes and bread batter.
Eudicots 91
Cautions
Older leaves may cause slight irritation to the throat if eaten raw without dressing.
Though the common Chenopodium species are fairly easy to recognize, there
is one called soaproot (C. californicum) whose leaves are very unpalatable, even
when cooked, and whose root is a great source of soap. Though you could make
wonderful soap by shaving the root and mixing it with water, you’d not want to
eat this. Let your taste buds be your guide, in this case.
92 Foraging California
Glasswort or Pickleweed
Salicornia spp.
Properties
There are 50 species of Salicornia worldwide. Five species are found in Califor-
nia, and all are native.
Glasswort is typically found in the back bays and sand flats above the high
tide areas of the Pacific Ocean. I have seen acres of nearly all glasswort in such
Eudicots 93
places. But it will also grow somewhat solitary and in some of the fields and wild
areas not too far from the beaches.
The plant stems—about 1⁄4" thick—sort of have the appearance of swollen
fingers, but not so thick, with distinct joints. The stalks are a pale green color—
almost translucent—and then turn red in the fall. The entire plant rises no more
than a few inches high. There are no apparent leaves. There are flowers and seeds,
but these are usually very inconspicuous. The overall appearance of the plant is
of small swollen stalks.
Uses
Glasswort makes a great beachside nibble—a little here, a little there. It’s also
good added to salads, but not too much. Just gently pinch the tender tips and
add it sparingly to salads because in volume it may be a bit too strong and over-
power your salad. Plus, you need to gather it young enough before it begins to
get woody and largely inedible.
Cooked, glasswort’s flavor is just right when added to soups, chowder, and
even omelettes. I suggest you taste a little first and experiment before adding a lot
to your dishes. In some cases, you might find that the flavor is greatly improved
94 Foraging California
by boiling the tender stems, pouring off the water, and then adding the glasswort
to your various cooked dishes.
I have enjoyed very simple pickled glasswort, too. Just collect the tender
young sections of the stems, before they get woody on the inside. Pack them
loosely in a jar, cover with raw apple cider vinegar, and put in your refrigerator.
In about a month, they will make a great garnish and side for various dishes.
You could also make your glasswort pickles a bit milder by boiling them briefly,
rinsing them of the water, and then putting them into a glass jar with vinegar.
Eudicots 95
Russian Thistle
Salsola tragus (formerly S. kali)
Use: The very young new growth can be cooked and eaten.
Range: Though seemingly a stereotypical plant of the desert, Russian thistle is somewhat
widespread in valleys, fields, disturbed soils, and the fringes of the urban sprawl.
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring
Status: Can be common locally and seasonally
Tools needed: None
Forager note: This plant is native to Central Asia and eastern Rus-
sia. The United States purchased flaxseed from Russia in 1874, and the
Russian thistle seed was in the flax. Russian thistle thus made its first
appearance in North America in Scotland, South Dakota.
96 Foraging California
Uses
Our main source of food here are the young, tender leaves. Collect them indi-
vidually so you know they are still tender. I usually simply boil and serve with
butter. They can also be served plain or with cheese.
Once boiled, taste the juice. It’s actually a pretty good broth. You can drink
it plain or use it as a soup base.
Eudicots 97
Cook 1 cup of rice (use some good rice, like wild rice or long-grained brown rice)
according to the package instructions. Separately cook about 2 cups of tender Russian
thistle leaves, and about 1 cup of hedge mustard leaves. When all is cooked, blend
them together while still hot. Give it a bit of garlic powder to taste, and top with shred-
ded Jack cheese before serving.
98 Foraging California
Live-Forever
Dudleya spp.
Properties
The Dudleya genus contains about 46 members, 26 (not counting subspecies) of
these are in California, all of which are native. Some are common, but there are
some that are not common, at least 3 are rare, and 1 is an endangered species. So
do your homework before eating any of these. One is called D. edulis. How do
you think it got that name? Because it’s edible! This little succulent plant is typi-
cally found growing right out of the cracks in rock hillsides and cliffs. This seems
like a harsh environment, but that’s where the Dudleya prefers to call home.
Eudicots 99
Uses
Though I’d nibbled on the succulent and sometimes astringent leaves of Dudleya
many times, the first time I’d taken the plant seriously was when a friend took
me on a “short hike” to do some exploring. I didn’t bring along water because I
was told it would be “only a mile.” Well, the hike was more than a mile, and it
was entirely downhill with at least 1,000' elevation decline over rocky boulders. I
knew I would not be going back the way I came. I took the long way back to my
car, about 8 miles. There was no water; there was no cactus. I found and began to
pick the Dudleya leaves. I chewed one and it was fleshy and succulent, not astrin-
gent. I kept many in my pocket. Though they did not quench my thirst, they did
give my body needed moisture, and I got back feeling OK, without dehydration.
The leaves and the tender flowering stems were eaten by the Cahuilla of
Southern California in the springtime and were regarded as a delicacy.
I’ve occasionally added a few of the leaves to salad. The palatability of these
leaves depends on the soil and the amount of rainfall during the previous winter.
Sometimes the leaves are a bit too astringent to eat raw in salads, and they are
improved when cooking. Once cooked, the leaves are usually very mild, even
bland, and will take on the flavor of whatever spices you use.
Dudleya
Manzanita
Arctostaphylos spp.
Properties
In California, there are at least 62 species (not counting subspecies) of Arcto-
staphylos that we refer to as some sort of manzanita. All are native. They typically
have characteristic dark red or maroon-colored bark, often with a shredded look.
They have the appearance of small trees or bushes. At least one is vining.
The leaves are alternate, evergreen, generally round- to ovate-shaped, a bit
leathery, and stiff. The flowers are like little white lanterns or urns that hang from
the plant, and the flower parts are usually in fives. The flowers mature into the
round reddish fruits; they actually vary slightly in color from an orange-yellow
Eudicots 101
to a darker maroon color. Some have a very sticky surface, and some are very dry
on the surface.
They can be found in a broad array of environments: rocky slopes, upper
chaparral, throughout parts of the desert, in woodlands, etc.
Uses
Though the manzanita berries are only available seasonally, generally peaking
around September, sometimes they are found in abundance and can also be
dried for later use.
There are some species whose berries are sticky on the surface, and others
that are not. I prefer those that are not sticky because less dirt sticks to them, and
less cleaning is needed.
There are several ways to enjoy the manzanita berries. The ripened berries
can simply be brewed in warm water to make a pleasant lemonade-ish drink.
While there’s sugar content, it’s sour, too, and you can enjoy this drink hot or
cold—while sitting around the campfire, or with a few fruits in your canteen for
a trail drink.
Traditionally, the mature and dried berries would be gently ground on a rock
or in something like a molcajete (traditional Mexican stone grinding bowl). The
flour, strained from the seeds, can then be used in many ways: added to other
bread products (like acorn flour) as an emulsifier or smoothener, added to vari-
ous batters, or just added to water for a drink.
Eudicots 103
Acacia
Acacia spp.
Properties
The Acacia genus includes about 960 species worldwide, with 7 species in Cali-
fornia. These are generally called acacia or wattle, and most are originally from
Australia. The native catclaw plant had formerly been classified an Acacia, but
has been recently reclassified by botanists as a Senegalia greggii.
Various acacia shrubs and trees are typically planted as park, street, and yard
trees, and many have gone wild.
The tree’s leaves are bipinnately divided, giving the tree an overall ferny look.
The bright yellow flowers appear to form balls or globes and make the tree very
conspicuous when in flower. In the summer, the flat pods can be seen hanging
from the trees. Small black seeds fall to the ground as the pods mature.
Uses
Not widely known is that the seeds from the pods were once good food back
home in Australia. The Aboriginal people considered the larger seeds, which they
called mulga, a great source of food. Mulga seeds are at least as large as a green
pea, maybe a bit larger. The mature seeds would be dried and ground into a flour
that could be used a variety of ways; one traditional way was to add water and
form a large pancake, which was cooked right on the coals of a campfire. Such a
pancake is known as “damper,” and so mulga damper was a regular staple back
in old Australia.
Unfortunately, we don’t have the larger mulga seeds in California. Among
others, we have the black wattle acacia, also sometimes called silver wattle
Eudicots 105
Carob
Ceratonia siliqua
Properties
Carob is from the Middle East, but tens of thousands have been planted in
Southern California as a street and park tree. They get large, nearly as large as a
coast live oak, with a large trunk as it matures.
This is an evergreen tree with pinnately divided leaves, each leaflet more or
less round. In the flowering stage, the tree is very aromatic, and sometimes (once
you know the smell) you can detect carob trees while driving down a street.
Eudicots 107
Uses
Mature carob pods are delicious
just picked off the tree or ground
and eaten. When you pick a fruit,
break it open and make sure it is
entirely ripe with no green inside.
The ones that aren’t entirely ripe
will be a bit astringent. Clean
them and discard any that have
been eaten by animals or are
already very wormy inside. Carob leaf
The ripe carob pod is prob-
ably the closest thing to the ulti-
mate survival food that you’re likely to ever find. Rich in natural sugar, palatable,
high in the B vitamins for protein, rich in calcium—good for you and tastes
good too!
The pods can be eaten raw with no particular preparation besides cleaning,
and they will last for years, so you can just fill your pack with carob pods and eat
them when you’re hungry.
But what if you want some carob milk shakes or carob candy? Well, then
you should just go to the store and buy some! It’s quite an ordeal to make a carob
milk shake with the carob pods, unless you have a way to grind the pods into a
very fine meal. Most home processors just won’t do it. First, you need to crack
open the pods and remove the very hard seeds. Then you grind the pods, usually
several times, until you get the finest meal. The best I was ever able to do at home
was to get a brownish milk with all the carob meal settling to the bottom of the
glass without dissolving. As for carob candy, most that you buy is just another
junk food to which a bit of carob has been added. However, you can remove
and discard the seeds, grind the pods into a flour, and add that sweet flour to
cake, bread, cookies, muffins, and even pie fillings. I have seen whole cookbooks
describing how to process the mature carob pod into dozens of products.
But at the end of the day, I just like to eat the pods as they are, with seeds
removed. They are tasty, nourishing, nutritious, and make a very easy snack.
Caution
Be sure to bite carefully and to spit out the very hard seeds.
Eudicots 109
Palo Verde
Parkinsonia microphylla and P. florida
Use: Seeds are eaten green, or dried and ground into flour
Range: Southeastern part of the state; sometimes cultivated
Similarity to toxic species: Some pods or pea-like capsules from this family can be toxic.
Always make sure you have accurately identified any member of this family that you intend
to eat.
Best time: Green pods in early summer; mature pods in late summer to fall
Status: Scattered within its range
Tools needed: None
Properties
There are 11 or 12 species of Parkinsonia worldwide. Three species are found in
California, and the 2 listed above are native.
These plants range from a large shrub to a smallish tree; it is deciduous, with
bark that is somewhat green, which is where the name comes from. The alter-
nately arranged bipinnately divided leaves are long and graceful, giving the plant
a very feathery appearance. There are thorns in the leaf axils. The conspicuous
flowers are divided into 5 yellow petals with 10 distinct stamens. It’s a good bee
attractor. The multiseeded pods hang from the trees. One easy way to tell the dif-
ference between these 2 species is that the pod of P. florida (blue palo verde) is of
an even thickness and sometimes slightly narrowed between the seeds; however,
the pods of P. microphylla (yellow
palo verde) are distinctly narrow
between the seeds. The tree is not Forager note: Because these
particularly common but is used trees are both beautiful and
more and more for landscaping as drought tolerant, we are seeing
it’s drought tolerant and beauti- more of them in the urban and
ful when it flowers. In the wild, it’s suburban areas in drought-tolerant
found in the southeastern deserts of landscapes. This provides an
California, into Arizona, and down
opportunity for the urban forager.
into Baja.
Eudicots 111
Mesquite
Prosopis glandulosa and screwbean (P. pubescens), both natives
Eudicots 113
These rich, molasses-like cakes were used as travel food by Indians, pieces broken off
and eaten or reconstituted in water to make drink, hot or cold.
I am not a doctor or biologist, but I have read that mesquite digests slowly and
helps maintain stable blood sugar, important for diabetics. It’s also high in protein and
fiber. Note: Everything in these recipes must be taken at your own risk. As always, do
your research or consult your physician.
Mix ground, whole-bean, dried mesquite flour (I get mine from the Seri Indians)
into boiling water, reduce heat, and stir into a thick mush (or atole). Simmer and stir
a few minutes longer to tenderize (especially if the flour is coarsely ground) and then
blend in additional flour until the mixture thickens and stiffens enough to hold shape.
Form into cakes 2"–4" in diameter and about 1⁄2" thick on cookie sheet or tinfoil and
dry in sun or on rocks near fire. As an alternative, I generally place them in a preheated
oven at 300°F for 2 hours, until the cakes have dried a bit, then I reduce heat to 150°F or
less for 3–4 hours. Once removed from the oven, I leave them out for even more time to
dry more thoroughly. One cup flour makes a large cake for about 4.
—recipe from Paul Campbell, author of Survival Skills of Native California
Properties
There are 44 species of Prosopis worldwide, with 3 found in California.
Mesquite is very common throughout the low desert; screwbean, a close
relative, is not so common. You’ve driven past mesquite if you’ve traveled around
Palm Springs. If the plant isn’t in flower or fruit, it’s somewhat inconspicuous,
and you may not have known it was mesquite. The leaf is even-pinnately divided
into smaller round or linear segments, giving the plant a ferny look. There are
little spines on the stems, generally 2 per node.
The mesquite fruits that appear in the summer are pale yellow, dry, and
maybe 6" long. They look like slightly withered green beans, except they are yel-
low when mature.
When not in flower or fruit, mesquite and screwbean are very hard to dis-
cern. But when in fruit, the screwbean is just as the name implies: a bean that
looks like you twisted it. It’s somewhat shorter than the mesquite fruit, and round
in the cross section. It’s one big spiral screwed-up bean! (No offense intended.)
Uses
The yellow pods of mesquite are the main prize of this desert shrub or tree. They
are harvested when ripe, which is typically sometime in the summer. There are
a number of ways in which the pods have been used for food over the centuries.
Perhaps one of the simplest is to just pick the mature pods, chew it, and spit out
the seeds. (The screwbean is used similarly.)
Traditionally, the whole pods would be ground into a flour that could be
used alone or mixed with other flours to make breads and cakes.
Eudicots 115
Oak Tree
Quercus spp.
Use: Acorns used for food once leached; miscellaneous craft and dye uses
Range: Some oaks can be found in nearly every environment of California.
Similarity to toxic species: The tannic acid in acorns is considered toxic, but it’s so bitter that
you’d never eat enough to get sick or cause a problem.
Properties
Some oak trees are deciduous and some are evergreen, and the leaf shapes vary
from simple to pinnately lobed. Some are bushes, but most are massive. To know
your local oaks, you should go to an arboretum or a plant society walk. Oak trees
are very common. They are ubiquitous, and they epitomize the native landscape
of California.
The fruit of all oak trees is the acorn, which every child can recognize. Some
acorns are fat, some long and thin, and the caps can vary significantly. Still, the
nut set in a scaly cap is universally recognized as the acorn. You should have no
trouble recognizing acorns wherever you live.
Uses
The nut from the oak tree is the acorn, and the acorn is a wonderful source of a
starchy food. Though I have 3 sepa-
rate cookbooks devoted entirely to
using acorns in the modern kitchen,
I generally only use acorns for cook-
ies, pancakes, and bread.
In the old days, acorns were
an important source of food for
Native Americans. Acorns were
typically collected and dried, and
then stored. For use, the acorns
were shelled; guess what—they’re a
bit easier to shell when dried. They
were ground and then placed on a
sloping rock with a lip at the lower Coast live oak acorns. Rick Adams
Eudicots 117
RECIPE
Tongva Memories
Use processed acorn flour (with tannic acid removed), mixed half-and-half with wheat
flour, and an appropriate amount of water. The dough is then formed into small loaves
and cooked on a soapstone slab.
Eudicots 119
Filaree
Erodium spp.
RECIPE
If you have a wheatgrass juicer, you can process some of the filaree leaves and then
enjoy the sweet green juice.
Eudicots 121
Currant leaf
Use: The fruits are eaten raw, dried, or cooked/processed into juice, jam, and jelly.
Range: Species are found in the mountains, in the chaparral, in flat plains, along rivers, etc.
Similarity to toxic species: When seeing currants for the first time, some folks think they’re
looking at poison oak—they’ve heard the saying “leaflets 3, let it be.” But the currant has 3
lobes per leaf, not 3 distinct leaflets as does poison oak.
Best time: The fruits are available in mid-spring.
Status: Common locally
Tools needed: None
Properties
Currants and gooseberries are both the same genus, and so we’ll treat them together.
Both are low shrubs with mostly long vining shoots that arise from the base. The
gooseberries have thorns on the stalks and fruits; the currants do not.
The leaves look like little 3- to 5-fingered mittens. The fruits of both currants
and gooseberries hang from the stalks, with the withered flower usually adhering
to the end of the fruit.
You will find currants or gooseberries throughout the diverse ecosystems of
California.
Uses
Though the straight shoots of the currants make excellent arrow shafts, currants
and gooseberries are mostly regarded as a great fruit, either eaten as a snack,
dried, or cooked into various recipes.
Gooseberries are a bit more work to eat because they’re covered with tiny
spines. I have mashed them all together and then strained the pulp through a
sieve or fine colander, using it as a jelly for pancakes. Boy Scout leader Richard
Toyon, a 14th generation Californian, descended from the Parra clan of the
Acjachemem nation, has reported that he found succulent gooseberries in the
Eudicots 123
higher elevations of the Angeles National Forest, which his Boy Scouts mashed
and used for pancake topping.
Currants require no preparation, and so they can be picked off the stalks
and eaten fresh. But make sure they are ripe; they’ll be a bit tart otherwise.
In the old days, the currant was a valuable fruit; it was dried, powdered,
and added to dried meats as a sugar preservative. Today, you can just dry the
fruits into simple trail snacks, or you can collect a lot and make jams, jellies,
or even delicious drinks.
And though the currant leaf is not usually regarded as an important food
source, some can be eaten in salads or cooked dishes for a bit of vitamin C.
They are a bit tough as they get older, however.
Cautions
Be sure you’ve identified currant or gooseberry and that you can tell the differ-
ence between these and poison oak.
Black Walnut
Juglans californica and J. hindsii
Use: The nutmeat is eaten. The green walnuts are used as fish stunner and the black hulls
used for a dye.
Range: Common in lower elevation canyons and valleys
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Nuts mature in mid- to late summer.
Status: Common
Tools needed: Gloves suggested
Eudicots 125
Eudicots 127
Mint
Mentha spp.
Uses
Not primarily a food, the wild mints are excellent sources for an infused tea. Put
your fresh leaves into your cup or pot, boil your water, and then pour the water
over the leaves. Cover the cup and let it steep a bit. I enjoy the infusion plain, but
you might prefer to add honey, lemon, or some other flavor.
We’ve had some campouts where we had very little food and relied on fish-
ing and foraged food. Even in off-seasons in the mountains, we were able to
find wild mint and make a refreshing tea. The aroma is invigorating and helps
to open the sinuses. To me, the flavor and taste of mint tea seems even more
enjoyable when camping. Also, you can just crush some fresh leaves and add
them to your canteen while hiking. It makes a great cold trail beverage and
requires no sweeteners.
Sometimes, we add the fresh leaves to trout while it is cooking. It adds a
great flavor.
If used sparingly, you can dice up the fresh leaves and add them to salads
for a refreshing minty flavor. Of course, they can be diced and added to various
dessert dishes, like ice cream, sherbet, etc. Or you can try adding a few sprigs of
mint to your soups and stews to liven up the flavor. And if you really want to
try something special for your doomsday parties, add a little fresh mint to your
favorite pouch of MREs.
Eudicots 129
Chia
Salvia columbariae
Use: Primarily the seeds are used in drinks and other foods.
Range: Prefers the desert flats but can be found in other environments
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Seeds mature around early July.
Status: Somewhat common locally in a good season
Tools needed: A tight-weave bag
Properties
Though there are about 900 species of Salvia in the world, only 19 (not counting
varieties) are found in California. Of these, 17 species are native and generally
go by some variation of the name “sage.” The leaves of most Salvias are prized for
Eudicots 131
Mallow leaves
Mallow
Malva neglecta
Use: Leaves raw, cooked, or dried (for tea); “cheeses” eaten raw or cooked; seeds cooked and
eaten like rice
Range: Urban areas such as fields, disturbed soils, gardens
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring
Status: Common and widespread
Tools needed: None
Eudicots 133
Properties
There are 30–40 species of Malva worldwide. In California, there are 7, but only
1 is a native.
The plants resemble geraniums with their rounded leaves. Each leaf ’s margin
is finely toothed, and there is a cleft to the middle of the leaf to which the long
stem is attached. If you look closely, you’ll see a red spot where the stem meets
the leaf.
The flowers are small but attractive, composed of 5 petals, generally colored
white to blue, though some could be lilac or pink. These flowers are followed by
the round flat fruits, which gave rise to its other name, “cheeseweed.”
These are indeed widespread,
mostly in the urban terrain and
on the fringes. In the desert and
other areas of California, there are
other related genera of the Mallow
family like the bush mallow (Mal-
acothamnus sp.) and the checker
mallow (Sidalcea sp.).
Uses
When you take a raw leaf and
chew on it, you will find it a bit
mucilaginous. For this reason, it
is used to soothe a sore throat. In
Mexico, you can find the dried leaf
under the Spanish name malva at
herb stores, sold as a medicine.
Though the entire plant is
edible, the stalks and leaf stems
tend to be a bit fibrous, so I just Mallow with round seed clusters
Eudicots 135
Miner’s Lettuce
Claytonia perfoliata
Use: Entire aboveground plant can be eaten raw, boiled, steamed, sautéed, or added to
soup, eggs, etc.
Range: Mostly found in moist canyons below 3,000'
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring
Status: Common seasonally
Tools needed: None
Uses
It seems that everyone in California knows miner’s lettuce. This is probably
because the plant is so distinctive—when it’s in flower, you really can’t confuse
it for something else. Plus, it tastes good, it often grows very abundantly, and it’s
Eudicots 137
easy to work with. Think of the plant as a somewhat succulent lettuce that is also
good cooked, and you’ll get some idea how versatile this plant can be.
Flavor- and texture-wise, this is perhaps one of my favorite wild foods. My
brother, Richard, always regarded it as his favorite. We have used it in many
recipes—just think of all the diverse ways in which we use common spinach!
To give some examples of the many ways in which we can eat miner’s let-
tuce, consider a weekend survival trip I once led for a dozen young men. Our
only food was what we fished or foraged, and there was very little growing in the
area besides miner’s lettuce. We had miner’s lettuce salad, miner’s lettuce soup,
fried miner’s lettuce, boiled miner’s lettuce, miner’s lettuce cooked with fish, and
miner’s lettuce broth! If we were in a kitchen with all sorts of condiments, we’d
have had miner’s lettuce omelettes, soufflés, stir-fries, and green drinks.
In other words, in any recipe—raw, cooked, or juiced—that calls for greens,
you can use miner’s lettuce.
RECIPE
Richard’s Salad
4 cups rinsed miner’s lettuce leaves
Dressing of equal parts olive oil (cold-pressed) and raw apple cider vinegar, to which
he added a dash of garlic powder and paprika, to taste
—recipe from my brother, Richard, who made miner’s lettuce salads whenever possible in the spring
Use: Everything can be used. Aboveground leaves and stems can be used raw, cooked, or
pickled. The tiny tubers can also be cooked and eaten.
Range: Some are very common in the urban setting, and others are found in mountains,
meadows, and fields.
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Generally spring
Status: Common in urban areas
Tools needed: None
Properties
Sour grass is widespread, and most gardeners hate it because it is such a successful
plant. It spreads and spreads, and if it grows in your yard, there’s probably much
Eudicots 139
Eudicots 141
Passionflower
Passiflora caerulea and P. tarminiana
Use: Fruits eaten raw or processed into jams, etc.; leaves and flowers for a medicinal tea
Range: Urban areas, around riparian areas, often invasive; doesn’t survive freezing
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Fruit is available in early to midsummer; leaves can be gathered year-round.
Status: Common and invasive in certain areas
Tools needed: None
Properties
Though there are 540 reported species of Passiflora worldwide, there are only 2
wild species in California. Many varieties are grown in gardens.
Both of our wild California passionflowers are native to South America.
They are a good source of food and medicine, and also reportedly have served as
a mnemonic tool to teach about the Passion of the Christ.
RECIPE
Lemon and Wild Passion Fruit Marmalade
3 cups sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Place all the ingredients into a pot, bring to a boil, and stir from time to time. Supervise
until the solution reaches the exact temperature of 220°F.
Pour into jars, close the lids, and place in the fridge.
If you know how to can, use the water-bath method for 15 minutes.
—recipe from Pascal Baudar
Eudicots 143
Uses
Passionflower fruit matures in early summer, with the orange egg-shaped fruits
hanging from the plant’s vines in the willows and oaks and whatever trees the
vine is growing on. Split open the ripe fruit and eat the red seeds. It’s a little
mucilaginous and sweet, but not overly sweet. It makes a good trail snack. I
enjoy them while hiking, as well as chilled and eaten out of hand.
I’ve had fruit leather made from the red seeds, crushed and laid flat on a
cookie pan until it dried. It had a good texture, and the flavor was improved by
drying. This is a great way to make food for storage and for trips.
The fruit also makes a good jam or jelly, usually with a bit of honey added.
You can brew the red seeds into a tasty drink, though again it’s improved with a
dash of honey.
The leaves are often infused into a tea, though they have a very mild fla-
vor, so mint or other aromatic herbs can be added. The herb contains a very
weak sedative, and if you have trouble getting to sleep, this is just the tea for a
bedtime drink.
Common Mimulus
Mimulus guttatus
Properties
Members of the Mimulus genus are generally referred to as monkey flowers.
There are about 100 species worldwide, and 62 species in California, all of which
are natives.
Eudicots 145
Uses
Because the common monkey flower grows in slow-moving waters, make sure
that the water is clean if you plan to use it in salads.
I’ve used the leaves and tender stems in salads many times, and I just pinch
off the tender above-water sections. The texture is good, and the flavor is mild,
so it makes a good addition to salads, either alone or mixed with a variety of
other wild greens for a balanced flavor. Add some tomatoes and avocado, too. Of
course, I nearly always add salad dressing to make it tasty.
The greens also lend themselves well to various cooked dishes. You can
simply boil them like spinach, or you can try stir-frying them with other
greens and vegetables.
Of course, common monkey flower is mild and can always go into any soup
or stew pot.
Use: The entire plant (tender stems and leaves) above the root
Range: Grows in slow-moving waters in the same environment as watercress
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring and summer
Status: Somewhat common
Tools needed: None
Properties
The Veronica genus has about 250 species worldwide, 11 of which are found in
California; of those, 7 are native, and 4 are introduced.
Veronica americana is a native and is frequently confused with watercress
because they both grow in water. And I admit to the superficial resemblance,
but there really are some obvious differences. The veronica has a simple leaf
Eudicots 147
California Buckwheat
Eriogonum fasciculatum
Use: Seed heads are used for flour (for pancakes, etc., or porridge)
Range: Chaparral zone mostly, fringes of the desert
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Harvest the seeds from approximately August through Februrary
Status: Widespread within its niche
Tools needed: Bucket or bag
Properties
In the California chaparral region and in parts of the desert, you will find this
buckwheat growing prolifically. The plant forms low bushes with its rosemary-
like leaves, though the edges of the California buckwheat are rolled over on the
Eudicots 149
edges. While the leaf is nearly identical in size to rosemary’s needlelike leaf, there
is none of the sweet fragrance of rosemary. In the spring, the plant sends up
flower stalks with flowers formed in what appears to be a ball. The flowers balls
are white in the spring; by summer the seeds ripen, and the balls turn a shade of
chocolate brown.
Of California’s 119 species of Eriogonum, only this species of buckwheat is
the most abundant in seed, is the most common overall, and contains seeds that
are easily harvested.
Uses
Buckwheat is an amazing grain. It is abundant in the fall and requires no leach-
ing to produce meal from it. The seed heads are easily harvested in the fall when
they are ripe. Just use your hand to pick them off and place in a bucket or bag.
Where the plant grows thickly, it is
not difficult to collect 5 gallons of the
seed heads in under an hour.
I used to try winnowing out the
seeds from the wings surrounding them.
This proved to be a lot of work to rub
them between the hands to free the seed,
and then to gently blow off the chaff.
While researching how the California
Native Americans processed the buck-
wheat, I learned that winnowing was not
the norm, so then my processing became
a lot easier. I just collect the seed heads,
rub them between my hands to produce
a coarse meal, pick out the stems, and
then mix this 50-50 with conventional
flours. I use this mix to produce bread,
biscuits, pancakes, and cookies. Buckwheat with the new white flowers of spring
Curly Dock
Rumex crispus
Use: Young dock leaves used raw or cooked; seeds harvested and added to various flours;
stems used like rhubarb
Range: Prefers wet areas, but can be found in most environments
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: The leaves are best gathered when young in the spring. Seeds mature in late
August and may be available for months.
Status: Common and widespread
Tools needed: None
Properties
Rumex has between 190 and 200 species worldwide; 23 are found in California,
15 of which are native—but not curly dock.
Curly dock is a widespread, invasive perennial plant in most of California. It
is originally from Europe, and though it has many good uses, it is often despised
and poisoned because it not only survives well but often takes over entire areas.
The root looks like an orange carrot, and the spring leaves arise directly
from the root. The young leaves are long and linear, and curved on their
Eudicots 151
Uses
You can make various dishes from
both the leaves and the mature
seeds of curly dock. Let’s start
with the leaves.
Pick only the very youngest
leaves for salad, the smaller ones
before the plant has begun to
send up its seed stalk. These will
be not too tough, and the flavor Mature dock seed stalk
will be sour, somewhat like the
French sorrel. You can just rinse
them, dice them, and add them to salads. I’ve had only these for salad, with
dressing and avocado, and it was good, but only because the leaves were young.
Older leaves are best boiled like spinach, or—ideally with the midrib
removed—sautéed with potatoes and onions. You can also add some to soup
and stews. The leaves change color and darken a bit upon cooking, and the
cooking softens up the tougher older leaves, but you really want to cook the
tougher, bitter, and astringent older leaves. All these qualities are reduced
somewhat by cooking.
I have seen the brown seed spikes sold in floral supply shops as fall deco-
ration, and they are very attractive. Those little seeds can be stripped off the
stalks and then rubbed between your hands to remove the wing from the
seed. You don’t have to be too picky here as it can all be used. I blow off
the wings, and then mix the seed half-and-half with flour for pancakes and
sometimes bread. You could also toss some seed into soup to increase the
protein content.
I’ve seen some folks who go to the trouble of winnowing and then further
grinding the seeds in a mill to get a fine flour. I never bother, but some folks
prefer the finer flour, which is a bit more versatile than the seeds. For example,
a fine flour can be mixed 50-50 with wheat, blended, and put through a pasta
machine to make a curly dock seed pasta, which tastes really good.
The stems are tart and sour, but often make a good nibble. Young stems can
be processed and used like rhubarb for pies.
RECIPE
Curly Dock “Nori” (Vegetable Chips)
Dehydration is a neat way to make some interesting and flavorful ingredients for wild
food dishes. This one is easy to do. You will just need a silicone sheet.
100 g (about 3.5 oz) chopped curly dock
1 garlic clove
1
⁄2 cup water
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1
⁄4 teaspoon salt
Eudicots 153
Sheep Sorrel
Rumex acetosella
Use: The raw leaves are good in salads and can also be added to various cooked dishes.
Range: Found in the higher elevations, often around water, and frequently near disturbed
soils and in urban areas
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring to early summer
Status: Can be abundant locally
Tools needed: None
Properties
Sheep sorrel is not native to California, but is to Europe and Asia.
Sheep sorrel is common and widespread, and the plant is recognized by its
characteristic leaves, which are generally basal, lance to oblong shaped, with a
hastate or sagittate tapered base; in other words, it looks like an elongated arrow-
head. When the seed stalk matures, it is brown, reminiscent of the curly dock
seed stalk, but much smaller.
RECIPE
Shiyo’s Garden Salad
Rinse a bowlful of young sheep sorrel leaves. Add at least 1 ripe avocado and 1 ripe
tomato, both diced. Add some oil-and-vinegar dressing; my preference is Dr. Bronner’s.
Eat it outside where the wind can blow your hair.
Eudicots 155
Wild Rhubarb
Rumex hymenosepalus
Use: The youngest leaves and stems are used in salads, older leaves can be cooked, and
stems used like rhubarb.
Range: Most common in the Mojave Desert, but found in low valleys and chaparral regions
as well
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring
Status: Not widespread; appears singly or in patches
Tools needed: None
Properties
This plant is also known as canaigre. Though this plant seems to largely be
restricted to the low and high deserts, it does grow outside this zone on occasion.
If you know curly dock (Rumex crispus), which is actually found worldwide, you
will automatically assume you’re looking at curly dock when you see the wild
rhubarb. But the wild rhubarb doesn’t just spread its seed and grow everywhere,
as does the dock; you will typically find patches of the wild rhubarb, here and
there. Sometimes you’ll encounter isolated patches.
Uses
In general, you can think of the uses
of wild rhubarb as the same as curly
dock’s, but the wild rhubarb gener-
ally contains more oxalic acid. This
means it’s more sour and more bit-
ter and thus requires more cooking
to make it palatable. Wild rhubarb beginning to flower
You might disregard this alto-
gether, thinking it’s too much work,
but in some parts of the desert, this is one of the few common plants that you
can use to make a meal.
Gently boil the stems and the leaves (separately or together) and change the
water. When they are no longer too bitter and are palatable, you can use them
in soups, stews, sautéed dishes, or simply served with butter, cheese, or other
seasonings.
I’ve had “rhubarb” pie made with just the stems of this plant and liked it
more than garden rhubarb. But just like garden rhubarb, cooks usually add way
too much sugar to make rhubarb pie. Health-oriented cooks can tweak the rec-
ipe just so and use honey to create an excellent healthful pie. By the way, it makes
a green pie, not a red pie like garden rhubarb.
The seeds could also be collected when mature, ground, and added to soup
or pancake batter, as you could also do with the seeds of curly dock. Try it spar-
ingly at first, as the seeds are a bit stronger in flavor than curly dock seeds.
Eudicots 157
Young purslane
Purslane
Portulaca oleraceae
Desert Portulaca
P. halimoides
Use: Entire aboveground plant can be used raw, cooked, pickled, etc.
Range: Prefers disturbed soils of gardens and rose beds; also found in the sandy areas
around rivers
Similarity to toxic species: Somewhat resembles prostrate spurge; however, spurge
lacks the succulence of purslane. Also, when you break the stem of spurge, a white
milky sap appears.
Best time: Spring into summer
Properties
Purslane starts appearing a bit later
than most of the spring greens,
typically by June or July. It is a very
common annual in rose beds and
gardens, though I do see it in the
wild occasionally, typically in the
sandy bottoms around streams.
The stems are succulent, red
colored, and round in the cross
section. The stems sprawl outward
from the roots, rosette-like, with
Young purslane
the stems lying on the ground. The
leaves are paddle shaped. The little
yellow flower is 5 petaled.
If you know purslane, you’ll probably recognize the similarity to desert por-
tulaca in the sandy washes and open flats. The leaves are succulent, like purslane,
but more elongated. The flower petals are red. You’ll only see this one in the
spring following wet winters. Also, desert portulaca is nowhere near as common
as purslane.
Eudicots 159
RECIPE
Purslane Salsa
2 cups chopped tomatoes
21⁄2 cups chopped foraged purslane
3
⁄4 cup chopped onions
3 garlic cloves
1 cup raw apple cider vinegar
1
⁄4 cup sugar
1 large California bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste
1
⁄2 cup chopped cilantro and some herbs from the garden (such as thyme)
Place all ingredients, except cilantro and other herbs, into a pot, bring to a boil, then
simmer to the desired consistency (light or chunky). Add cilantro and other herbs.
Pour into jars, close the lids, and place in the fridge. It should be good for at least
a month.
—recipe from Pascal Baudar
Properties
There are 50 species of the Frangula genus, with 3 species found in California.
F. californica and its 6 subspecies are most common in Southern California; F.
purshiana and its 3 subspecies are found more commonly in the northern part
of California. These are small shrubs to large trees, depending on location and
species. F. californica is typically no more than 8' tall, whereas F. purshiana is
significantly taller, very treelike. The leaves are alternately arranged, 1"–2" in
Eudicots 161
Uses
You could pick a few of the nearly
black ripe fruits around August and
eat them as trail nibble, but don’t
eat too many. The plant is a known
laxative, and the ripe fruit can have Coffee berry with red fruit. Helen W. Nyerges
that effect.
I have had some jam prepared
from the ripe flesh of the coffee berry fruits. It was uniquely flavored; it didn’t
appeal to me, but some folks really love it.
Most of the time, it is the seeds of this plant that foragers collect. Harvest the
fruit when mature. You could quickly squeeze the seeds out of each fruit—that’s
the long way. You could also just mush them all up between your hands to get
all the fruit separated from the seed, wash it well, and the lay it in the sun to
dry. When dry, you can further rub the seeds between the hands to get rid of all
remaining flesh.
The seeds are then dried,
ground, roasted, and percolated
to make a caffeine-free coffee-
tasting beverage. It really smells
like coffee, and more or less tastes
like coffee. Serve it plain, or with
honey and cream, as with regu-
lar coffee. You could also use it
as a coffee extender, mixing half-
and-half with coffee.
Caution
Try this beverage sparingly at
first; a small percentage of peo-
ple will vomit after trying it. Coffee berry with green fruit. Rick Adams
Toyon
Heteromeles arbutifolia
Properties
The toyon is the only species of the
Heteromeles genus. (Heteromeles is
Greek for “different apple.”)
Toyon can grow to a medium-
sized tree and is probably most
conspicuous in the winter when it’s
covered with its clusters of orange-
red fruits, which are pomes.
The tree is found in the chap-
arral zones and often planted on Toyon in flower. Rick Adams
Eudicots 163
Uses
I have one Native American friend
who likes to pick the fresh toyon ber- Collected fruit of the toyon before the stems are
ries from the tree and eat them raw. removed, being prepared for drying. Rick Adams
He says he likes them, and I believe
him; everyone has a different sense
of taste. In general, I find them a bit too dry and astringent for a raw snack.
I prefer to collect a gallon or so of the fruit and roll them gently between my
hands to remove all the stems. Then I put the berries into a dishpan with warm
water and clean the fruit. Next, I dry them—in the sun or in the oven with just
the pilot light on. The dry fruits then make a good nibble, or they can be used
in a variety of ways: One is to grind the dry fruit into flour, and add that flour to
bread and pancake mixes. It adds a mild sweetness to the mix. You can add the
dried toyon berries to wild-nut mixes, or soak them in water a bit before adding
them to bread or pancake batter. Or, finally if you add the fresh berries to water,
boil them gently, rinse the water, and add fresh water again, they can be eaten as
is, sweetened, or added to other dishes
A cider can also be made from these fruits. Clean and boil the fruits, and
sweeten to taste.
RECIPE
Chumash Winter
Boil 2 cups fresh toyon berries in water for a minute or so, and pour off the water. Add
a little fresh water, and cook gently. Add 2 tablespoons honey and stir. Add some flour,
stir, and cook until you have a thick dessert, with almost an oatmeal-like consistency.
Wild Cherries
Prunus spp.
Use: The flesh of the fruit in jams and jellies; process the meat of the large seed into a flour
Range: Chaparral, coastal ranges, riparian, urban fringes
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Fruits mature around August.
Status: Common
Tools needed: None
Properties
There are about 400 species of
Prunus worldwide, whose common
names generally include cherry,
almond, apricot, and plum. In
California there are 11 species of
Prunus (but we’re only concerned
with the cherries here). There are 4
wild cherries in California. The first
2 listed below are evergreen trees or Ripe wild cherry
Eudicots 165
bushes in California; the leaves are stiff and shiny, with teeth on the margins
(depending on species). The second 2 are deciduous.
One way to identify the plant is to crush these leaves, wait a few seconds,
and then smell them. They will have a distinct aroma of bitter almond extract,
your clue that the leaf contains cyanide (hydrocyanic acid).
The fruits are very much like cultivated cherries, except the color is darker
red, almost maroon, sometimes even darker. The flesh layer can be very thin in
dry years and thicker in the seasons following a good rain. Like domestic cher-
ries, under the flesh, there is a thin shell and the meaty inside of the seed.
Uses
The fruit of our wild cherries makes a great trail nibble. I usually see them when
they ripen in August and the trail is hot and dry, and the fruit make a refreshing
treat. But don’t eat too many of the raw fruit, or diarrhea might result.
The wild cherry has a hint of bitterness. The fruit can be cooked off the seeds
and the pulp made into jellies, jams, and preserves. You can also make a fruit
leather by laying the pulp on a cookie sheet and drying it.
In the old days, the native people enjoyed the flesh of the cherry, but they
considered the seed to be the more valuable part of the fruit. The seeds were
shelled and the inside meat was cooked and leached to reduce the cyanide. The
cooked seeds, once ground into mush or meal, were then used to make a sweet
bread product or added (like acorns) to stews as a gravy or thickening agent.
Caution
If you crush the leaf, it will impart a sweet aroma like bitter almond extract used
in cooking. That’s the telltale aroma of the cyanide, so don’t use the leaf for tea.
Eudicots 167
Wild Rose
Rosa spp.
Use: Fruits eaten raw, cooked, made into jam or tea; wood useful for arrow shafts
Range: Typically riparian but found in many areas; cultivated roses are common in urban
areas.
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Fruits mature in summer.
Status: Common
Tools needed: Clippers, possibly gloves
Properties
There are about 100 species of Rosa worldwide, which hybridize freely. There are
12 species in California, not including subspecies. Nine of these 12 are natives,
including the common Rosa californica.
Wild roses are more common than most people think. They are typically found
in wet areas, though this is not a fast rule. The wild rose flowers are 5 petaled, not
Uses
For food, we have the flower and the fruits. The flowers have long been
used to make rose water and can also be used to make a mild-flavored infu-
sion. The petals make a flavorful, colorful, and nutritious garnish to soups
and salads.
Eudicots 169
The rose hips are one of the richest sources of vitamin C. The fruits can
be eaten fresh, but you first should split them open and scrape out the fibrous
insides. They are typically a bit fibrous, with a hint of bitterness. More com-
monly, the fruits can be infused into a tea or made into jellies.
Some of the old-school archers (such as Alton “Longbow” Safford) consider
the rose shaft one of the finest woods to use for making arrows, assuming you cut
the new straight shoots. To remove the thorns, you need to then ream the shaft
through a rock with a hole in it.
Caution
Before you eat the petals or fruit, make sure the plants have not been sprayed
with any pesticides.
Blackberry
Rubus spp.
Use: Berries used for juices, jams, dessert; dried leaves used for medicine
Range: Riparian and many other areas where sufficient water is supplied
Similarity to toxic species: Somewhat resembles poison oak, though poison oak lacks thorns
Best time: Fruits mature in the summer
Status: Common
Tools needed: None, but clippers can help
Properties
There are about 400–750 species of Rubus worldwide. There are 11 in California
(not including varieties), and 7 are native. The natives include thimbleberry (R.
parviflorus). Some are known as raspberries.
Even nonbotanists can usually identify the vine and fruit of the very com-
mon blackberry. In the northern part of the state and into Oregon, wild black-
berries are so common that many just go uneaten.
The leaves are palmately divided (like a hand) into 3, 5, or 7 segments.
The vines are twining on the ground or over low hedges and are charac-
terized by their thorns, which make it difficult to wade too deep into any
Eudicots 171
Uses
A blackberry is easily recognized, and everyone who sees the ripe ones ven-
tures to eat them. I’ve picked them deep in the chaparral and mountains
and along roadsides. The key is to avoid the thorns and to make sure they
are not immature and tart. If the fruit is black, soft, and easily picked, it’s
ripe! You can eat it right away, or pick a bunch and mash them for a topping
for pancakes, biscuits, or cake.
Even better, add them to vanilla
ice cream. (Yes, we know that
chocolate ice cream is better for
you, but the flavor of blackber-
ries clashes a bit with chocolate.)
You could also make a conserve,
a jam, a jelly, a pie filling, or a
juice. It’s very versatile. And
though I rarely have ripe black-
berries around long enough to
dry them, they can be dried in
any food dryer and will keep for
quite a while. The dried fruits can
then be eaten as is or reconsti-
tuted for juices or desserts.
An infusion of the leaves has
long been used among Native
Americans for diarrhea and child-
birth pains. Fruiting blackberry
Jojoba
Simmondsia chinensis
Properties
Jojoba (pronounced “hoe-hoe-buh”) is an evergreen shrub found throughout the
Southwest and into Mexico, especially in arid areas and washes. There is smooth
bark and opposite leaves that are leathery, ovate, and dull green. The nutlike fruit
is obtusely 3 sided.
Uses
When my friend Nathaniel used to work in the Anza-Borrego area, we’d visit during
the summer and pick the fruits off the jojoba bush and eat them. We ate lots of them,
and we liked them. We ate them raw, we ate them dried, we ate them roasted.
Eudicots 173
The jojoba seeds taste a bit better when dried and lightly roasted. We’ve
made many snacks from bowls of these seeds. Yet I hear constantly that you can’t
eat the seeds “because they make car wax from the seeds.” Well, maybe car wax
is made from the seeds, but they’re certainly edible.
Like so many conventional or wild foods, everything should always be con-
sumed in moderation until you know how your body reacts to it. Jojoba is no
different in this regard. Try a little, see how you like them, and see how your
body reacts.
The Cahuilla of the low desert ground the seeds into a powder and made a
beverage that was said to be similar to coffee. The Yavapai parched the seeds and
ground them into a powder, which had a peanut-butter consistency, and then ate
it. Others mashed them into
small cakes, which were then
boiled and eaten. Though
the Indians did eat the fruit,
they were not regarded as
being highly nutritious
because much of the fruit is
an indigestible wax.
The oily seeds were also
ground into a paste or poul-
tice and applied to sores by
the Papago.
Properties
There are approximately 1,500 species of Solanum in the world, with 18 found
in California.
Eudicots 175
Uses
The fruit of this plant seem to peak around August, when the plant can be pro-
lifically in fruit, if the season’s rain and heat have been just right. Regardless, I
have found ripe fruit of the western nightshade during every month.
Don’t eat these fruits while they are still green, as it could result in a stom-
achache and minor sickness. That is, you shouldn’t eat the green fruits unless
they are boiled, fried, or otherwise cooked.
I will try a few of the dark purple ripe fruits when I see them while hiking. I
like the fresh tartness. It’s very much like eating a tomato, but a bit spicier. They
are great added to salads—just like adding tomatoes! But just like tomatoes,
there are many other ways to enjoy the western nightshade fruit. We’ve smashed
them and added to pizza dough. They taste like tomatoes, but turn nearly black
when cooked. They are good added to soup, too. And because they are so small,
you don’t need to cut or slice; just toss them into your soup or stew.
Also, just like sun-dried tomatoes have a unique flavor, you can let the west-
ern nightshade berries dry in the sun (or in your food dryer), and then eat them
as is, or reconstitute them later into various recipes. Though it isn’t absolutely
necessary, I find that they dry quicker if you gently smash them first—such as on
the cookie sheet where you’ll be drying them.
Cautions
While there may be other ripe nightshade fruits that could be eaten, we don’t
advise you eat any but those listed above. Also, do not eat the green berries; only
eat the fully ripe, dark-purple berries. Otherwise, sickness could result. Green
berries should only be consumed if boiled, fried, or otherwise cooked. Anyone
with any tomato sensitivity or sensitivity to other members of this family (e.g.,
eggplant, chiles, peppers) should not consume these fruits.
Eudicots 177
Nasturtium in flower
Nasturtium
Tropaeolum majus
Use: All tender parts can be eaten raw, pickled, or cooked; this includes stems, leaves, flow-
ers, tender seeds.
Range: Originally found along the coast and near the coast; now widely cultivated through-
out the urban areas
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring
Status: Somewhat common, abundant locally in season
Nasturtium leaf
Eudicots 179
RECIPE
Nasturtium “Brain Food” Capers
I keep the pickling process very simple: Just wash the tender still-green seeds, pack them
into a canning jar, and cover with raw apple cider vinegar. Put into your refrigerator for
at least 3 weeks before you start serving them. Let your guests know they are “capers.”
Stinging Nettle
Urtica dioica
Use: Leaves used for food (cooked) and for tea; stalks made into fiber
Range: Riparian, urban fields, edges of farms, disturbed soils, etc.
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Collect the greens in the spring.
Status: Common
Tools needed: Gloves and snippers
Eudicots 181
I created this hot sauce through experimentation and really enjoy it. It has a mild “wild”
flavor and is really liked by those who taste it. It’s extremely simple to make. This is a
very basic recipe and you can include some of your favorite flavors and ingredients,
such as Italian herbs or bay leaves.
Supplies
Latex gloves
Jars or bottles
Metal pot
Ingredients
5 ounces jalapeño peppers, stemmed and chopped with seeds (make sure they’re not
too hot though)
6 garlic cloves
Combine all the ingredients and blend until smooth. Strain for a thinner sauce, or keep
it as is. Transfer to jars and cover. Refrigerate at least 2 weeks then enjoy.
—recipe from Pascal Baudar
Properties
This perennial generally sends up a single stalk in the winter or spring that can
reach around 5' tall if undisturbed. The leaves are oblong with toothed margins,
and taper to a point. Both the leaves and stalks are covered with needles or
bristles that cause a stinging irritation when you brush against them.
Uses
The young, tender leaf tips
of nettle are the best to use,
though you could also col-
lect just the leaves later in
the season (the stems get too
tough). These tender tops can
be steamed and boiled, which
removes the stingy-ness of net-
tles. They are tasty as a spinach
dish, alone or served with but-
ter, cheese, or other topping.
Also try the water from the
boiling—it’s delicious!
We’ve also made tasty
stews and soups, which we
began by boiling the nettle
tops. Then we quickly added
diced potatoes, some red Nettle leaves
onions, and other greens.
Often miso powder was added, or not. Cook until tender and serve, or add
Braggs Liquid Amino Acid for some great flavor and nutrition.
This is a vitamin-rich plant, so you’ll be getting your medicine when you
eat it.
Cautions
As you will probably learn from personal experience, you get “stung” when you
brush up against nettle. This is due to the formic acid within each “needle” or
“bristle” that causes a skin irritation. So be careful when you gather nettle greens
and wear gloves or other protection. And if you do get the nettle rash, you can
treat it with fresh aloe vera gel, or with the freshly crushed leaves of other plants
such as chickweed or curly dock.
Eudicots 183
Wild Grape
Vitis spp.
Use: Fruits eaten raw or cooked; leaves used in Middle Eastern cooking
Range: Prefers riparian areas and moist shady canyons
Similarity to toxic species: Wild cucumber (Marah spp.) could be confused for wild grapes
when young. However, once they begin to fruit, wild cucumber fruits (which are large and
oval-shaped, about 4" long) bear no resemblance to grapes.
Best time: The fruits mature in the summer; leaves are best collected in spring.
Status: Widespread
Tools needed: None, but clippers can be useful.
Properties
Though there are 65 known species of Vitis, it is only represented in Califor-
nia by 3 species, one of which (V. vinifera) is the introduced cultivated grape.
Uses
I first learned about our native
grape when reading the accounts
of the first Spanish explorers to
come into Southern California’s
Indian territory. They wrote that
the natives were eating acorns,
wild grasses, and wild grapes. The
more I observed, the more I real-
ized that our wild grape was very
widespread.
My first use of this plant was
when my friend Talal was getting
married. He’s from Lebanon, and
he wanted to make some Middle
Eastern grape leaves for the wed-
ding reception. We went up into Wild grape with green fruit
the local mountains and collected
Eudicots 185
Yucca
Hesperoyucca whipplei ( formerly Yucca whipplei )
Use: Immature flower stalk, flowers, fruits, and seeds can be used for food; the leaves are an
excellent fiber and soap source.
Range: This yucca is found mostly in the desert and chaparral regions of the southern part
of the state.
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: The food sources are available from mid-spring to about midsummer; leaves can
be gathered at any time.
Status: Relatively common
Tools needed: Clippers (I always use Florian ratchet clippers) for the leaf; sharp knife for
other parts
Properties
Though there are 3 species of Hesperoyucca, there is only H. whipplei in Califor-
nia. This very common yucca had formerly been classified as part of the Yucca
genus, which includes banana yucca (Y. baccata), Joshua tree (Y. brevifolia),
and Mojave yucca (Y. schidigera).
Yuccas are a somewhat ubiquitous plant in many locales, including the
deserts, the chaparral, and the lower elevations of the mountains. The leaves
are long, lance shaped, and very fibrous with a sharp tip. Some varieties have
sharp edges.
The white to cream-colored flowers are produced when the plant is in its
final season.
Yucca looks like a giant pin-
cushion of leaves that are up to 2'
long and 1"–2" wide.
The plants will grow for 20
years or more, then flower one
spring, and die that season. The
beginning of the flower stalk
appears like a huge asparagus,
somewhat red in color. As this
flower stalk grows taller in April
or May, it begins to flower with
its clusters of creamy-white flow-
ers. There are 6 perianth segments
(sepals and petals) of the flow-
ers. By summer, the green fruits
develop. The fruits are capsules
that have a few chambers. When
the fruits mature, the flat black
seeds will develop in these cham-
bers, stacked like sliced bread. Yucca plant in the forest
Monocots 189
I’ve pickled Hesperoyucca whipplei shoots for several years now, and they’ve even been
served in some of the top restaurants in Los Angeles. The recipe is very simple.
For this recipe, we use 1⁄2-pint jars.
Peel and slice the fresh yucca shoot into small 1⁄2” squares. Fill up the jar with as
many squares as you can, and in each jar place the following:
1 garlic clove
1
⁄4 California bay leaf (or 1⁄3 regular bay leaf )
1 small- to medium-size spicy dehydrated chile (just because I like some heat)
Make a pickling solution of 2 cups raw apple cider vinegar and 2 cups white wine (or
water), 1⁄2 cup sugar, and 2 teaspoons sea salt. Depending on how many jars you’re
making, you may need to make more. Bring the solution to a boil and pour it into the
jars, covering the yucca.
Close the lids and place the jars in the fridge. Wait 2–3 weeks before consuming.
If you know how to can and want to preserve them outside the fridge (shelf sta-
ble), use the water-bath method and boil for 15 minutes.
—recipe from Pascal Baudar
Uses
Though yucca was probably one of the most important fiber plants of the South-
ern California Indians, let’s first look at the food uses.
In the spring, when you find a yucca plant that is beginning its flowering
death dance, it will begin by sending up its asparagus-like immature stalk that
can be cut, peeled, and eaten raw, though it’s better boiled, or sautéed, or cooked
into a mixed vegetable dish.
Next, assuming you didn’t cut down the stalk, the plant begins to flower
with these beautiful creamy-white flowers. The flowers have traditionally been
eaten in a number of ways, perhaps the most common is to first boil them (to
remove the soapiness), drain, add flour, form into patties, and then sauté. They
could also simply be boiled and seasoned.
Monocots 191
Use: Bulbs and greens eaten raw or cooked. However, I strongly advise readers to leave the
bulbs in the ground and only pick the greens for food.
Range: The habitat of the 52 species of wild onions found in California represents collec-
tively just about every type of environment.
Similarity to toxic species: Wild onions were once categorized in the Lily family because
these 2 groups are so similar, and the flowers of most are nearly identical. There are deadly
members of the Lily family, so never eat any member of this group unless you are absolutely
certain you have made positive identification.
Best time: The leaves and flowers are most noticeable in the spring and early summer.
Status: Though in certain areas you will not find wild onions, they can be common locally.
Tools needed: None
Properties
In California, 52 species (not including varieties) of Allium can be found. Most
are natives.
Uses
When you find wild onions, you’ll be tempted to pull up the plant so you can
eat the bulb. That’s what you do in your own garden, but that’s not the only
way you can use these. Generally, I only pick the green leaves for consumption.
If there are a lot of the wild onions, I might take some of the bulbs to eat, break
up the cluster, and replant some. The reason that I generally only eat the greens
is that I’ve seen some patches of wild onions disappear entirely due to foragers
uprooting the whole plant.
I used to hike with a man who always uprooted the wild onions to eat in
his sandwiches and other dishes. One time, as we walked by what had been
his favorite patch, he noted aloud that there were not many wild onions there
anymore. Guess what? He picked them! Two years later, he noted with dismay
Monocots 193
Monocots 195
Use: Fruits are edible fresh or dried. Dried fruit (minus the seed) is used in many dishes.
Leaves are used in many utilities, such as fire making, shelter, etc.
Range: California fan palm is restricted in the wild to the low desert, but cultivated palms
are found everywhere.
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Fruits in the summer
Status: Scattered, common locally
Tools needed: Usually you pick the fruit off the ground. If you can’t wait, you’ll need a ladder.
Properties
There are only 2 species of Washingtonia, and W. filifera is the native species. The
other is the Mexican fan palm (W. robusta), native to Baja California.
Though not widespread, the California fan palm is very common in cer-
tain locales, such as Palm Springs. The main trunk arises 60'–65', and the
dried fronds are often seen hanging down the stalk. The leaves are like fans,
with the outstretched leaflets arising from a common stem. The fruits are
small and black.
Native palms near Palm Springs. Note the dried fronds hanging down the stalk. Rick Adams
Monocots 197
Uses
The little fruits can be collected and eaten as is, spitting out the seed. The local
Indians ground the fruits, sometimes seed and all, into a sweet flour that was
then used for a sweet gravy or a drink. The powder can be added to other foods
as a sweetener, just as you’d add white sugar in the modern diet.
Note: Because various parts of palms can be used in the same way, the
following comments can be applied somewhat generically to all of the palms
and don’t necessarily apply exclusively to the California fan palm.
When the tree is cut down, the inside heart can be cut out and eaten.
Yes, you will need saws and/or machetes to do this effectively. The white,
edible part is at the base of the leaves, in the very middle of the plant. If it is
not very tender, it won’t be good to eat. The hearts can be eaten raw, boiled,
or stir-fried, and they can be pickled as well. It’s a delicious food from the
palm tree.
The dried leaves of most palms have multiple craft uses. They are good
for making baskets, hats, sandals, and other woven goods. They can be used
as the thatching for homes as they were by the desert Indians in days gone by.
The stem of the fan palm is of the ideal balance between softness and
hardness for a hearth for making fire with the hand drill or bow drill.
Monocots 199
Wandering Jew
Tradescantia fluminensis
Wandering Jew
Properties
This is a trailing ground-cover plant with succulent stems and leaves that are
alternately arranged on the stem. The parallel-veined leaves are forest-green, with
a sheath at the base of the leaf that clasps the stem and comes to a sharp point.
Sometimes they are streaked with lighter green stripes.
The little white 3-petaled flowers appear in clusters at the stem tips from
spring through fall.
This is native to Brazil and Argentina, where it is regarded as an agricultural
pest. It creates a quick ground cover in urban areas and generally takes care of
itself with no help from the homeowner. It has also been spotted sprawling
in mountain areas, typically where there was once a cabin where ornamentals
were planted.
Uses
Same as for Tropical Spiderwort (see next page).
Monocots 201
Tropical Spiderwort
Commelina benghalensis
Properties
Tropical spiderwort is very similar to wandering Jew, though the leaf edges are
often wavy or wrinkly. The flower is blue, and though there are 3 parts, 2 are
larger and showy.
Uses
Because this plant is so common, I was happy to learn that I could use it in vari-
ous dishes. My first awareness of its use as food came from a Filipino friend who
told me that he ate it in a stew back home. Cooked alone (like spinach), spider-
wort leaves and tender stems are bland, but otherwise they make a good cooked
green. I have added the leaves in moderate amounts to stews, soups, mixed sau-
téed dishes, and egg dishes. Because the leaves are not strongly flavored, they go
well with most dishes. Blending it with other more strongly flavored wild leaves
makes a tastier dish.
The tender parts of this plant can also be added to most cooked dishes,
such as stews and soups. Make a broth (miso, chicken broth, whatever) and add
maybe a half cup of the leaves along with a half cup of other wild greens; a blend
is always better. You can also just cook up the greens, drain, and serve seasoned
with butter or cheese.
I have had salads that were primarily spiderwort (either one of the two
described), to which we added avocado and dressing. This makes a good salad,
but, again, you get a better salad by adding a variety of greens.
I have a wild food friend who likes to make many variations of kimchee.
One variation includes a lot of the green spiderwort leaves, stems, and flower
buds. The vinegar makes this a tasty treat. My friend has also used the purple
wandering Jew flowers and tender stems in his wild kimchee, and though he says
it’s OK, it’s not my favorite dish.
The only downside we’ve noted is that when consuming good portions of
these greens, loose bowels can result.
The tropical spiderwort is used medicinally in China and to feed animals in
Pakistan, Africa, and Southeast Asia. It is eaten by people in Pakistan and Nepal,
and regarded as “famine” food in India.
Monocots 203
Rush
Juncus textilis et al.
Use: Tender white growth at base of shoots edible raw or cooked; seeds cooked in pastry
or porridge
Range: Riparian areas
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Spring for the shoots; fall for the seed
Status: Common locally
Tools needed: None
Uses
Though this plant and its close relatives are thought of as great weaving and fiber
plants, there are at least 2 good food sources as well.
In the fall, there will be a small tassel of seeds on the top portion of the
rushes. If you’re there at the right time, you can put a bag under the tassel and
shake out the seed. These seeds are then used in the 2 ways in which most grains
can be used: mixed in with pastry products or as a cooked cereal.
In the spring you can gently pull up the long leaves and note that the bottom
of the plant is white and tender. There’s not a lot of food here, but it’s good, and
you can get a lot in a short period of time. You can eat them raw on the spot, or
save them to add to salads, stir-fries, or soups.
Harvesting the shoots seems to make the rush patches grow better, but you
still shouldn’t just pick these for the tender base and then discard the rest because
you really only get a nibble from each shoot. The upper part of the plant—the
long leaves—are great for making traditional baskets. So if you’re going to eat
some of the young bases, you should really collect the shoots and use them for
weaving, or give them to someone who makes baskets. Unless of course, you’re
lost and starving, which is a wholly different situation.
Forager note: Properly prepared, these leaves are ideal for many
of the traditional basketry done by California Indians. One of the best
how-to descriptions of this is found in Paul Campbell’s Survival Skills
of Native California.
Monocots 205
Use: Leaves for food (sprouts, juiced, etc.); seeds for flour or meal
Range: Grasses are truly found everywhere.
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Somewhat varies depending on what grass we’re talking about, but generally
spring for the greens and summer to fall for seed.
Status: Very common
Tools needed: None
Uses
The edibility of the wild grasses, generically, can be summed up in 2 categories:
the young leaves and the seeds.
You may have had some of the leaf when you went to a health-food store
and ordered wheatgrass juice. That’s perhaps one of the best ways to eat various
grass leaves—juice them. You can purchase an electric or a hand-crank juicer.
I have juiced various wild-grass leaves and found the flavor to be quite diverse.
Some have the flavor of wheatgrass juice and are good added to drinks or to soup
broth. Some are very different, almost like seaweed, and these are typically better
in soup. However you do it, get the grasses as young as possible. They are most
nutritious at this stage, and they are less fibrous. You will discover that grasses
contain a lot of fiber once you start to crank a hand juicer, watching the green
liquid gold come out one end and the strands of fiber come out the other end.
If you don’t have a juicer, you could eat the very young grass leaves in sal-
ads or soups, though you may find yourself chewing and chewing, and spitting
out fiber.
Monocots 207
Cattail
Typha spp.
Use: Food (inner rhizome, young white shoots, green female spike, yellow male pollen);
leaves excellent for fiber crafts where high tensile strength is not required
Range: Wetlands
Similarity to toxic species: None
Best time: Generally, the shoots and spikes are best collected in the spring. The rhizome
could be collected at any time.
Status: Common in wetlands
Tools needed: Clippers, possibly a trowel
Monocots 209
Uses
Euell Gibbons, author of Stalk-
ing the Wild Asparagus and many Green cattail spike. Rick Adams
other wild food books, used to
refer to cattails as the “supermar-
ket of the swamps,” which is a good description of this versatile plant.
There are at least 4 good food sources from the cattail, which I’ll list in
order of my preference.
In the spring, the plant sends up its green shoots. If you get to them before
they stiffen and the flower spike has started, you can tug them up, and the
shoot breaks off from the rhizome. You then cut the lower foot or so and peel
off the green layers. The inner white layer is eaten raw or cooked. It looks like
a green onion, but the flavor is like cucumber.
The spike is the lower part of the flower spike, technically the female part
of the flower. You find the spike in spring when it’s entirely green and tender.
Though you could eat it raw, it’s far better boiled. Cook it, butter it, and eat
it like corn on the cob. Guess what? It even tastes like corn on the cob. You
could also scrape off the green edible portion from the woody core and add
to stews or stir-fries, or even shape into patties (with egg or flour added) and
cook like burgers.
The pollen is the fine yellow material that you can shake out of the flower
spikes. The flower spike is divided into 2 sections—the lower female part,
described above, and directly on top, the less-substantial male section, which
produces the fine yellow pollen. If you’re in the swamp at the right time, typi-
cally April or May, you can shake lots of pollen into a bag, strain it (to remove
twigs and bugs), and use it in any pastry product.
The rhizome is also a good starchy food. Pull out the long horizontal roots
from the mud, wash them, and then peel off the soft outer layer. You could just
chew on the inner part of the rhizome if you need the energy from the natural
sugar, or you could process it a bit. One method of processing involves mash-
ing or grinding up the inner rhizome and then putting it into a jar of water. As
the water settles, the pure starch will be on the bottom, and the fiber will be
floating on the top, so you can easily scoop it out and discard it. The starch is
then used in soups or in pastry and bread products.
Monocots 211
Do you have a favorite California wild food that isn’t listed here? Remember, it
was our intent to include those California plants that are the most widespread,
readily recognizable, and those that would make a significant contribution to
your meals. We also wanted to have plants that represented most of the biologi-
cal zones in our state. But as you continue your study of ethnobotany, you will
discover that there are many more wild plants that could be used for food. Some
are marginal, and some just aren’t that great.
I have eaten California ragweed, various species of Phacelia and Bidens, tele-
graph weed, and many others that I never found described in a wild food or eth-
nobotany book. Yes, they are edible, but after trying them, I realized why ancient
people never used them, or only used them when nothing else was available.
Yes, there are many wild animals and ocean life that could be used for food.
We have deliberately chosen to
stick to the plants.
Also, some of the other books
in this Foraging series have included
wild mushrooms. And yes, there
are a dozen or so common wild
mushrooms that could be used
for food. However, I am periodi-
cally reminded of the challenges of
mycology and mycophogy when I
read about someone—often a life-
long expert—who ate the wrong
mushroom and became very ill
or died.
For those of you who are seri-
ously interested in identifying and
eating wild mushrooms, I encour-
age you to enroll in a mycology
course at a local college or join a
local mushroom group. There are
many such groups nationwide,
and many such groups in the state
of California. (If you cannot find
one, contact me and I will try to
find one close to you.) You owe Yucca plant. helen w. nyerges
213
215
• Don’t worry about trying to know everything at once. That idea just
clutters up your mind. Find a skilled naturalist or botanist to go on
a walk with you in your own backyard or neighborhood, somewhere
close to where you live. Take lots of notes and photos for your review,
but get out into the field with a knowledgeable person.
• Regularly review the plants you saw in your neighborhood walk.
Observe their changes throughout the seasons so you know what they
look like as a sprout, as an adolescent, as a mature and flowering plant,
in fruit, and when dead. This is the sort of awareness that you cannot
get from a book; it can only be gained by experience. And don’t worry
about all those seemingly exciting plants that you heard about from
the rain forest or from China: Learn about what you see every day.
Even 20 miles away is too far. Get to know the plants in your own
backyard, in your own neighborhood. Get to know them like friends.
Ask questions regularly of whomever is teaching you. Begin to use
one plant at a time in your meals—one plant that you absolutely,
unequivocally know is an edible wild plant. You don’t need to make
When you discover that we have ruined the planet Earth in the name of
“modern agriculture” that produces inferior food, you will understand the mean-
ing of Pogo’s comment, “We have met the enemy, and he is us.”
Here is a simple test that I use in my classes. Take the test for plants and mush-
rooms and see how you do.
1. ❒ True. ❒ False. Berries that glisten are poisonous.
2. ❒ True. ❒ False. White berries are all poisonous.
3. ❒ True. ❒ False. All blue and black berries are edible.
4. ❒ True. ❒ False. If uncertain about the edibility of berries, watch to see if
the animals eat them. If the animals eat the berries, the berries are good for
human consumption.
5. Would you follow this advice? State yes or no, and give reason.
According to Food in the Wilderness authors George Martin and Robert
Scott, “If you do not recognize a food as edible, chew a mouthful and keep
it in the mouth. If it is very sharp, bitter, or distasteful, do not swallow it. If
it tastes good, swallow only a little of the juice. Wait for about eight hours.
If you have suffered no nausea, stomach or intestinal pains, repeat the same
experiment swallowing a little more of the juice. Again, wait for eight hours.
If there are no harmful results, it probably is safe for you to eat. (This test
does not apply to mushrooms.)”
6. ❒ True. ❒ False. “A great number of wilderness plants are edible but gener-
ally they have very little food value.” (Martin and Scott, ibid.)
7. ❒ True. ❒ False. Bitter plants are poisonous.
8. ❒ True. ❒ False. Plants that exude a milky sap when cut are all poisonous.
9. ❒ True. ❒ False. Plants that cause stinging or irritation on the skin are all
unsafe for consumption.
220
11. What is the value of being able to identify the Mustard family?
12. ❒ True. ❒ False. Mustard (used on hot dogs) is made by grinding up the
yellow flowers of the mustard plant.
13. ❒ True. ❒ False. Yucca, century plant, and prickly pears are all members of
the Cactus family.
14. ❒ True. ❒ False. There are no poisonous cacti.
15. ❒ True. ❒ False. Plants that resemble parsley, carrots, and fennel are all in
the Parsley or Carrot family and thus are all safe to eat.
16. ❒ True. ❒ False. Only seventeen species of acorns are edible; the rest are
toxic.
17. To consume acorns, the tannic acid must first be removed. Why?
18. If you are eating no meat or dairy products (during a survival situation, for
example), how is it possible to get complete protein from plants alone?
19. ❒ True. ❒ False. There are no toxic grasses.
20. ❒ True. ❒ False. Seaweeds are unsafe survival foods.
21. ❒ True. ❒ False. All plants that have the appearance of a green onion and
have the typical onion aroma can be safely eaten.
22. List all of the plant families (or groups) from this quiz that we’ve identified
as entirely or primarily nontoxic:
Others to consider Mesquite, palo verde, peas, Millet, rye, oats, various wild
carob, etc. grasses, etc.
19. True, however, be certain that the seeds are mature and have no mold-like
growth on them.
20. False. Seaweeds are excellent. Make certain they’ve not been rotting on the
beach, and don’t collect near any sewage treatment facilities.
21. True. But be sure you have an onion!
22. All members of the Mustard family, all palatable cacti, all acorns, all cattails,
grasses, seaweeds, onions. There are many other “safe” families, but you will
need to do a bit of botanical study to identify those families. Begin by reading
the descriptions of each family in this book. Also consider reading Botany in a
Day: The Patterns Method of Plant Identification by Tom Elpel.
224
225
Foraging_CA_3pp.indd 226
Acorns Fruit of the oak Acorns (nuts) Flour, pickles, Leach out tannic Similar to Mountains, Fall
tree mush acid first, then potatoes valleys
grind
Cacti Succulent desert 1. Tender parts; 1. Salad; cooked 1. Carefully Pads said to Dry desertlike Young green pads
plants of various 2. fruit vegetable; remove spines; be good for environments; in spring and
shapes omelette; 2. dice or slice as diabetics; fruits Mediterranean summer; fruit in
2. dessert; drinks needed rich in sugar zones summer and fall
Cattail Reedlike plants; 1. Pollen; 1. Flour; 1. Shake out Widespread, Wet areas, e.g., Spring through fall
fruit looks like hot 2. green flower 2. cooked pollen; versatile roadside ditches,
dog on a stick spike; vegetable; 2. boil; marshes
3. tender shoots; 3. salad; 3. remove outer
4. rhizome 4. flour green fibrous
parts;
4. remove outer
parts and crush
Chickweed Weak-stemmed, Entire tender plant Salad or tea Rinse and add Good diuretic Common and Spring and
opposite leaves, dressing; or make widespread summer
5-petaled flower infusion when moisture is
present
Curly Dock Long leaves with 1. Leaves; 1. Salad; cooked 1. Clean; Richer in vitamin Common in fields Spring through fall
wavy margins 2. stems; vegetable; 2. use like C than oranges and near water
3. seeds 2. pie; rhubarb;
3. flour 3. winnow seeds
Dandelion Low plant, 1. Roots; 1. Cooked 1. Clean and cook; Richest source Common in lawns Best harvested in
toothed leaves, 2. leaves vegetable; coffee- or dry, roast, grind of beta carotene; and fields spring
conspicuous like beverage; 2. clean and make very high in
yellow flower 2. salad or cooked desired dish vitamin A
vegetable
4/4/14 11:31 AM
Grasses Many widespread 1. Seeds; 1. Flour and mush; 1. Harvest and 1. Easy to store; Common in all 1. Fall;
varieties 2. leaves 2. salad; juiced; winnow; 2. rich in many environments 2. spring
Foraging_CA_3pp.indd 227
cooked vegetable 2. harvest, clean, nutrients
and chop
Lamb’s Quarter Triangular leaves 1. Leaves and 1. Salad; soup; 1. Harvest; clean; Rich in vitamin A Likes disturbed, Spring through fall
with toothed tender stems; omelettes; 2. winnow and calcium rich soils
margins, mealy 2. seeds 2. bread; mush
surface
Mustard Variable leaves Leaves, seeds, Salads; cooked Gather, clean, and Said to help Common in Spring through fall
with large some roots dishes; seasoning cut as needed prevent cancer fields and many
terminal lobes; environments
4-petaled flowers
Onions Grasslike Leaves, bulbs Seasoning; salad; Clean, remove Good for reducing Some varieties Spring is best
appearance; soup; vegetable tough outer high blood found in all
flowers with dishes leaves pressure and high environments
3 petals and 3 cholesterol levels
sepals
Purslane Low-growing All tender portions Salad; sautéed; Rinse off any soil Richest known Common in Summer
succulent, paddle- pickled; soup; plant source of parks, gardens,
shaped leaves vegetable dishes omega-3 fatty disturbed soils
acids
Seaweeds Marine algae of Entire plant Depends on Use dried, raw, Excellent source Oceans Year-round
many shapes and seaweed: salad, or cooked, of iodine; great
colors soup, stew, broth depending on salt substitute
species
Latin Names: Acorns = Quercus spp.; Cacti = Cactacea (Cactus family); Cattail = Typha spp.; Chickweed = Stellaria media; Curly Dock = Rumex crispus; Dandelion =
Taraxacum officinale; Grasses = Poaceae (Grass family); Lamb’s quarter = Chenopodium album; Mustard (Mustard family Brassicaceae) = Brassica spp.; Onions =
Allium spp.; Purslane = Portulaca oleracea; Seaweeds = brown, red, and marine green algae (Phaeophyta, Rhodophyta, Chlorophyta).
4/4/14 11:31 AM
Staff of Life:
Best Wild-Food Bread Sources
The baking of bread goes back to the most ancient cultures on the earth, back
when humankind discovered that you could grind up the seeds of grasses, add
a few other ingredients, let it rise, and bake it. There are countless variations,
of course, but bread was once so nutritious that it was called the “staff of life.”
Most likely the discovery of bread predated agriculture, because the earth
was full of wild grasses and a broad assortment of roots and seeds that could
be baked into nutritious loaves. Most grains store well for a long time, which
allowed people the time to pursue culture, inner growth, and technology. The
development of civilizations and the development of agriculture go hand in
hand, and bread was right there from the beginning.
Today, we are at another extreme of a very long road of human develop-
ment. We started with the struggle for survival, and with the surplus of the
land allowing us the time to develop more fully in all aspects. That good bread
from the earth was heavy, rich, extremely nutritious. It was a vitamin and
mineral tablet.
We produced so much grain that the United States called itself “the
breadbasket of the world.” And this massive volume resulted in losses from
insects in the fields and also due to spoilage. Then came the so-called Green
Revolution where chemical fertilizers replaced time-honored fertilizers such
as animal manures, straw and hay, compost, bonemeal, and other such natu-
ral substances that the modern farmer was too busy and too modern to use.
Crops increased while the nutritional values dropped. And though this is a
gross oversimplification, bread from the supermarket is no longer the staff
of life. The mineral content of the once-rich soils of the United States has
steadily declined. Producers process and refine “white flour” and then add
certain minerals back in to the flour itself. We sacrificed quality as we thought
it would bring us security, and we knew it would bring big bucks. Now the
great irony is that we lost the quality of the food, of the soil, and ultimately
we are no more secure than ever before. Why? Because a soil rich in natural
organic matter can withstand floods and droughts and the ravages of insects.
It is the folly of man that causes the droughts and plagues of modern times.
There is much—very much—that we need to learn about modern agri-
culture or “agribiz” as it is more appropriately called. We should not put our
heads into the sand, ostrichlike, and pretend the problem does not exist.
228
RECIPEs
Beginner Wild Bread
3 tablespoons honey
1 egg
1 cup milk
3 tablespoons oil
Mix all ingredients well and bake in oiled pans for about 45 minutes at 250ºF or in your
solar oven until done.
Follow the above recipe, add extra milk or water until you have a pancake-batter con-
sistency. Make pancakes as normal.
Curly dock
Foraging_CA_3pp.indd 231
soaking or boiling and grind into meal
Agave Seeds and fruits Seeds boiled and ground; fruits boiled Southwest US, Mexico, and dry Good if cooked Very good
and mashed environments
Amaranth Seeds Collect and winnow seeds Worldwide as a weed of disturbed soils Good Very good
Cactus Seeds Mash ripe fruits, pour through Throughout US, though most common Good Good
colander to extract seeds in Mediterranean climates worldwide
Cattail Pollen and rhizome Shake the top of cattail spikes into Worldwide in wet and marshy areas Very good Good
bag to collect pollen; mash peeled
rhizome and separate out fiber
Dock Seeds Collect brown seeds in fall, rub to Worldwide in wet areas and disturbed Acceptable Very good
remove “wings”; winnow soils
Grass (most species) Seeds Generally, simply collect and winnow; Worldwide, some found in nearly every Generally very good Very good to excellent
difficulty depends on species environment
Lamb’s Quarter Seeds Collect when leaves on plant are dry; Worldwide in disturbed soils and farm Acceptable to good Very good
rub between hands, winnow soils
Mesquite Entire pod The entire pod is ground into flour Widespread throughout Southwest Excellent Very good
Wild Buckwheat Entire seed heads Collect entire mature head, pick out Western US and Mediterranean Very good Very good
stems, grind climates
Yucca Seeds and fruit Collect black seed from mature fruit Southwestern US and northern Mexico Good to very good Very good
and grind; mash up fruit when insides
are still white
Note: This chart is intended only as a general guideline to compare sources for “wild bread” ingredients. There may be many other wild plants that can be used for bread.
Never eat any wild plant that you have not positively identified as an edible species.
Latin names: Acorns = Quercus spp.; Agave = Agave spp.; Amaranth = Amaranthus spp.; Cactus = primarily Opuntia spp. and other Cactaceae; Cattail = Typha spp.; Curly Dock
= Rumex crispus; Grass = Poaceae (family); Lamb’s quarter = Chenopodium album; Mesquite = Prosopis glandulosa; California buckwheat = Eriogonum fasciculatum;
Yucca = Hesperoyucca spp.
4/4/14 11:31 AM
Sweet Tooth:
Best Wild-Food Sugars and Desserts
When people speak of sugar today, they are almost always speaking of the highly
refined, nutritionless white substance made from sugarcane or sugar beets.
Unfortunately, modern sugar is a foodless food. It is the cocaine of the modern
human’s dinner plate. It is not good for the body, and it offers no nutrients what-
soever. It has not always been so.
Just a few generations ago, it was common for people to make their own
sugars. Every culture had their favorite sources for their sugars, depending on
what was found in the wild or what was grown in that particular location. In
most cases, they simply collected, dried, and ground up sugar-rich fruits. Most
such fruits will naturally crystallize with time and then could be further ground.
The advantage of these sugars over white cane sugar is that these sugars had their
own individual flavors, and they contained many valuable minerals.
Some sugars are quite simple to produce, such as honey. Its main obstacles
are to find a way to house the bees—something modern beekeepers do quite
well—and to keep from getting stung. And tapping maple trees (and several
other trees) was so simple that even the North American Indians did it. They
simply cut narrow slashes into the tree, inserted hollow tubes made from elder
branches, and collected the sap in whatever containers they had. Raw maple
sap is usually boiled down to get a syrup of the desired consistency and sugar
content. Sometimes you boil off about forty gallons of water for each gallon of
syrup. You do not do this indoors.
People have always sought ways to make foods more flavorful, and sugar is
certainly useful in that regard. But sugar is also valuable as a preservative. Both
sugar and salt help to preserve foods and keep them from spoiling. This was
especially important in the past when there was no electricity or refrigerators.
It’s amazing how fast a modern culture forgets things. Probably not one in a
thousand urbanites knows these simple details about sugar. Our culture has sunk
to such ignorance in this matter that we somehow believe that the only choice is
between white sugar, the pink container, or the blue packet. Rather than produce
nutritious sugars as we had in the past, the trend is to produce high-tech sweet
substances that not only have no nutrients but have no calories either, as does
white sugar. The wonders of science never cease!
232
RECIPE
Appalachian Brickle
1
⁄2 gallon ripe toyon berries
Begin by gently cooking the washed berries in just enough water to cover them. When
they are cooked, pour off the water, add fresh water, and cook a little longer. Then add
just a little water, add the honey, and stir. After the mixture thickens, add the biscuit
mix, little by little, and stir. The mix will be very thick when it is ready to serve.
This makes a heavy, sweet dessert. In the old days, what wasn’t eaten of this
would be put into a bread pan and baked until dry so it would store. It would then
last a long time until reconstituted. The dried shape looked like a brick, which is the
source of the name.
Foraging_CA_3pp.indd 234
Apples, Wild (including Whole fruit Use fresh, or slice, dry, and grind Entire US Very good; collect when Very good
crab apples) to flour ripe
Berries (black-, rasp-, Whole fruit Use fresh, or dry and grind Entire US Excellent Very good
thimbleberries)
Carob Whole pod Remove seeds, grind entire pod; Southern half of US, Good; rich source of Very good
use fresh or dried Mediterranean climates calcium
Currants Whole fruit Use fresh, or dry and store Entire US Good Very good
Elderberry Whole fruit Use fresh if cooked first; or dry Entire US Contains sugar but tart Good
and store
Gooseberries Whole fruit Remove spiny layer, then use fresh Entire US Good Very good
or dried
Grape, Wild Whole fruit Use fresh or dried Most of the US Sometimes tart; collect Very good
ripe fruit
Manzanita Whole fruit Dry and grind the pulp around the Southwestern US A bit tart; used like Good
seed, but not the seed aspic
Maple Sap Cut bark on tree, capture sap; use Entire US, but flows best Excellent Excellent
fresh; crystallizes naturally where there is snow
Prickly Pear Cactus Fruit Remove stickers, use inner pulp Entire US, but most common in Excellent Good
fresh or dried, with or without seed Southwest
Toyon Fruit Cook and use fresh, or dry for Southwest Good, a bit tart Very good
storage
Note: There are many sugars found in nature, usually in the fruits. Honey is a traditional sugar, made indirectly from plant nectars. Other traditional sugars
include dried and powdered dates, dried pomegranate juice, and beets. This chart compares a few wild sugar sources that are the most widespread
throughout North America. There are many plants that are either marginal sugar sources or available in very limited locations. Never use any wild plant for
sugar or food until you have positively identified it as an edible plant.
Latin names: Apples = Malus spp.; Berries = Rubus spp.; Carob = Ceratonia siliqua; Elderberry = Sambucus spp.; Currants and Gooseberries = Ribes spp.;
Grape, wild = Vitis spp.; Manzanita = Arctostaphylos spp.; Maple = Acer spp.; Prickly pear cactus = Opuntia spp.; Toyon = Heteromeles arbutifolia.
4/4/14 11:31 AM
Useful References
Anderson, M. Kat. Tending the Wild: Native American Knowledge and the Man-
agement of California’s Natural Resources. Berkeley: University of California
Press, 2005. A fantastic reference on how Native Americans used fire and
other means for passive agriculture.
Angier, Bradford. Free for the Eating. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 1996.
Baldwin, Bruce G., et al., eds. The Jepson Manual: Vascular Plants of California.
Berkeley: University of California Press, second edition, 2012.
Bean, Lowell John, and Katherine Siva Saubel. Temalpakh: Cahuilla Indian
Knowledge and Usage of Plants. Banning, CA: Malki Museum Press, 1972.
A wonderful original sourcebook on how the Indians around Palm Springs
traditionally used plants. A great section on mesquite and acorns.
Brenzel, Kathleen Norris, ed. Sunset Western Garden Book. New York: Time Home
Entertainment, 2013. By the editors of Sunset Books and Sunset magazine,
yes, this is about plants in your garden, but there’s a lot of relevant, useful
information in this book!
Campbell, Paul Douglas. Survival Skills of Native California. Salt Lake City, UT:
Gibbs Smith, 1999. A treasure trove of information about how people in
California actually did things, and a large section on plant uses.
Clarke, Oscar. Flora of the Santa Ana River and Environs. Berkeley, CA: Heyday
Books, 2007.
Cornett, James. How Indians Used Desert Plants. Palm Springs, CA: Nature Trails
Press, 2002. A slim book with good photos and good treatments of the com-
mon desert plants.
Doyle, Harrison. Golden Chia: Ancient Indian Energy Food. Vista, CA: Hillside
Press, 1973.
235
Elpel, Tom. Botany in a Day: The Patterns Method of Plant Identification. Pony,
MT: HOPS Press, 2000.
Garcia, Cecelia, and Dr. James Adams. Healing with Medicinal Plants of the West:
Cultural and Scientific Basis for Their Use. La Crescenta, CA: Abedus Press,
2005. An excellent summary of the common edible and medicinal plant
uses found in California.
Gibbons, Euell. Stalking the Blue-Eyed Scallop. New York: David McKay, 1964.
A good description of many of the foods found on the Pacific Coast.
Kane, Charles. Herbal Medicine of the American Southwest: A Guide to the Medici-
nal and Edible Plants of the Southwestern United States. Tucson, AZ: Lincoln
Town Press, 2006. Good descriptions and photos of plants found widely
throughout the Southwest.
Kirk, Donald. Wild Edible Plants of Western North America. Happy Camp, CA:
Naturegraph, 1970. Though you generally cannot positively identify plants
with this book, it does contain more edible and useful plants than any other
single book on the subject that I’m aware of.
Knute, Adrienne. Plants of the East Mojave, 2nd ed. Barstow, CA: Mojave River
Valley Museum Association, 2002. Good photos of the desert plants.
237
F I
Fabaceae, 104 Indian cabbage, 65
Fagaceae, 116 Insulation, 212
Fan palm, California, 197
Fennel, 44 J
FERNS, 19 Jojoba, 173
Jojoba family, 173
238 Index
Index 239
240 Index
Index 241
243