Textile Internship Alok Industries
Textile Internship Alok Industries
PROGRAM
NIFT KANNUR
CONTENTS:
About ALOK industries Ltd
Acknowledgment
Grey fabric manufacturing
Warping
Sizing weaving
Inspection
Fabric processing
Finishing
Inspection
Quality assurance
Final inspection
Dispatch
Conclusion
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ABOUT ALOK INDUSTRIES:
Alok was incorporated in the state of Maharashtra as a private limited company on 12 th
march 1986 in the name of “Alok Textile Private Limited”. On 17th November 1992 the
company was converted into a public limited company and name of the company was
subsequently changed to Alok industries limited on 11 th February 1993.
Alok is well established professionally managed textile company. The company has
integrated manufacturing facilities for:
Home Textiles
Apparel Fabrics (woven and knits)
Garments
Alok industries is India's largest fully integrated textile company with a dominant presence in
the Cotton and Polyester segments.
Their strategy for attaining this position was indeed simple: They focused on world class
infrastructure, best-in-class technology, uncompromising quality standards and dynamic
product innovation.
Added to these has been their constant desire to surpass customer expectations.
Location
Weaving- silvassa
Woven processing - Vapi & Navi Mumbai
Capacities
170 million meters per annum (In width 112cms to 160cms)
Twills, voiles, cambrics, poplins, Lycra poplins gabardines, jacquard, satins, matte, canvases,
buta dobby, lawn, yarn dyed and many more
Fashion and Functional fabrics - Bottom weight
Yarn Dyeds, Blouse weights, shirt weights
Fibre specifications
100% conventional cotton, 100% organic cotton, 100% viscose and various blends.
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ACKNOWLEDGMENT:
I would like to thank all the employees of Alok Industries for their kind cooperation. We were
supported and emphasized by really great person whose efforts have altogether given shape
and that really make a difference.
We would also like to thank staff members of Alok Industries Ltd. Who constantly guided us
throughout the project and spare their precious time us in discussing our problem and
providing various ways to the solution.
All the members of Alok Industries Ltd. Who were involved in the development in the system
directly or indirectly were very helpful right from the start.
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GREY FABRIC MANUFACTURIG
DEPARTMENT:
In grey fabric manufacturing department raw yarns are converted into unprocessed fabric
.The first process which is followed in this department is warping. But before warping is done
grey yarns are taken from the Grey Storage. Whose storage capacity is 1500-1250 tones,
these grey yarns are not stored for more than 2-4months.
WARPING:
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to a
common package (warp beam) is called warping.
MACHINE USED:
Direct warping machine:
Main features of these machines are the uniform yarn tensile forces and the high efficiency
during the subsequent processing in weaving. The high user friendliness of the operator
interface (Touch Screen) ensures easy handling.
In this machine 680 reels of yarn can be warped at a time.
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IMPORTANCE OF WARPING:
SIZING:
Size is a gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion form, applied normally
to warp yarns. It can sometimes be applied to weft yarns. Sizing is the process of applying
the size material on yarn. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to
bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving.
Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene,
polyacrylic acid, and polyacetates are employed.
OBJECTIVE OF SIZING:
To protect the yarn from abrasion
To improve the breaking strength of the yarn
To increase smoothness of yarn
To increase yarn elasticity
To decrease hairiness
To decrease the generation of static electricity
The speed of the sizing machine is 100mter per min.
Size paste consist of:
Arkofil- CP
Arkofil –UCF-4
The concentration of size paste vary from 2.5% to 8%.
Hand Refractometer is used to check the concentration of size paste in the water before
transferring it into the sizing machine.
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In sizing machine first step is to segregate the yarns from the different beams and dip them
into the hot size paste (temperature 160-140degree centigrade) and immediately rolled
over a hot Teflon coated roller then slowly it is taken down to the normal temperature.
WEAVING:
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving.
The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. Weaving is an art that
has been practiced for thousands of years. The earliest application of weaving dates back to
the Egyptian civilization. Over the years, both the process as well as the machine has
undergone phenomenal changes. As of today, there is a wide range of looms being used,
right from the simplest hand loom to the most sophisticated loom.
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion
performance and are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to
medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibers (sheets,
shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple yarns of man-made fibers); it has
anyway to be pointed out that technically positive results are obtained at present also with
heavy weight fabrics (denims) and that some manufacturers produce also machine models
for terry production.
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These machines are the ideal solution for those who want to produce bulk quantities of
customized fabric styles. The weaving widths range generally from 190 to 400 cm. As
regards the multicolor weft carrier, up to 8 different wefts can be fed. It has however to be
considered that the air jet weaving machines require a high energy consumption to prepare
the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely with increasing loom width
and running speed. The reduction in the energy consumption is in fact one of the main
concerns of the manufacturers, and builds for the user an important selection criterion.
LOOMS-80 machines
JAQUARD-28 machines
AIR-JET-52 machines (20mts per min) 700-800rpm
Dobby -12 machines (15mts per min) 500-600rpm
MAINTANENCE DEPARTMENT:
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GREY FABRIC INSPECTION AND
PACAKAGING:
In inspection department 100%of the grey fabric is inspected with the help of an inspection
machine. In which the flow or the speed of the fabric depends upon the type of fabric to be
inspected.
Some of the common defects detected while inspecting the grey fabric are:
• Slub
• Hole
• Daghi
• Kala kandi
• Reed marks
• Missing threads
• Double picks etc.
In this department fabrics are categorised into different grade according to their quality. 4-
point American system is used to grade the fabrics.
4 Point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel industry for fabric quality
inspection.
Calculation method of total penalty points for total defects found in a fabric roll or thān
Knowledge of different types of defects (how a defect looks and its appearance)
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Criteria for giving penalty points:
In the following table the penalty evaluation points has been given for different length of
fabric defect and dimension of holes.
Table
Defects up to 3 inches 1
1 inch or less 2
Over 1 inch 4
Points / 100 sq. yd. = (Total points in roll * 36 * 100)/ (Fabric length in yards * Fabric width
in inches)
Normally fabric roll containing 40 points per 100 square yard are acceptable.
After the inspection is done the fabric is packed and dispatched to the fabric processing
unit.
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Fabric Processing:
GREY INSPECTION and WINDING:
In this department fabric is again inspected while the fabric role is winded again. Fabric is
opened and winded with the help of a grey opening machine. The fabric is winded at an air
pressure of 75-80 pounds per inch square.
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PRODUCTION MACHINERIES IN PROCESSING PLANT:
Monfort’s stenter 5
Monfort’s sanforizer 4
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SINGEING and DESIZING:
Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber
ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled
fabric surfaces, and pilling results .Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure
Protruding fibre ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics.
DESIZING:
Previously, in order to remove the size, textiles were treated with acid, alkali or oxidising
agents, or soaked in water for several days so that naturally occurring microorganisms could
break down the starch. However, both of these methods were difficult to control and
sometimes damaged or discoloured the material. But by using enzymes, which are specific
for starch, the size can be removed without damaging the fibers.
It represented great progress, therefore, when crude enzyme extracts in the form of malt
extract, or later, in the form of pancreas extract, were first used to carry out desizing.
Bacterial amylase derived from Bacillus subtilis was used for desizing as early as 1917.
Amylase is a hydrolytic enzyme which catalyses the breakdown of dietary starch to short
chain sugars, dextrose and maltose.
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OSTHOFF SINGING CUM DESIZING MACHINE:
MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
Name of the machine osthoff singing m/c
No. of m/c Three
Machine maker osthoff (Germany)
Speed of the machine 100-120mtrs per min
Working speed 60-80mtrs per min
Working flame intensity 10-12mtrs bar
No. of burners Two
Machine working width 2mtrs
Fabric temperature 139-140 degree centigrade
Gas to air proportion 1:4
Working width of the roller 75 inches
Burner positions 1, 2, 3
DESIZING CONDITIONS:
PH of the bath 5.5-6.5
Temperature 60-65 degree centigrade
Time of contact 1 min (max)
Speed of the machine 60-80 mtrs/min
Width of the roller 85inches
Working width of the roller 75inches
Expression %age average 80-85%
Heating system indirected by steam coils
%age of size material 8-10%
Batch time 8-12 hrs
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COMBINED SCOURING AND BLEACHING:
After batch rotation of 8-12 hours batch is brought to pretreatment range for combine
scouring and bleaching.in this industry all processes are carried out continuously on
continuous machines. For the bleaching process continuous pretreatment range is used
which is known as continuous bleaching range where combine scouring and bleaching takes
place.
SCOURING:
Scouring (the process of removing natural waxes, pectins, fats and other impurities from the
surface of fibers), which gives a fabric a high and even wet ability so that it can be bleached
and dyed successfully. Today, highly alkaline chemicals (such as caustic soda) are used for
scouring. These chemicals not only remove the non-cellulosic impurities from the cotton,
but also attack the cellulose leading to heavy strength loss and weight loss in the fabric.
Furthermore, using these hazardous chemicals result in high COD (chemical oxygen
demand) and BOD (biological oxygen demand) in the waste water. Recently a new
enzymatic scouring process known as ‘Bio-Scouring’ is being used in textile wet-processing
with which all non-cellulosic components from native cotton are completely or partially
removed. After this Bio-Scouring process, the cotton has an intact cellulose structure, with
lower weight loss and strength loss. The fabric gives better wetting and penetration
properties, making the subsequent bleach process easy and giving much better dye uptake.
BLEACHING:
When bleaching cotton, a lot of chemicals, energy and water are part of the process. The
company Huntsman has developed a wetter/stabilizer that maximizes the wetting and
detergency of the bleaching process and a one-bath caustic neutralizer and peroxide
remover in order to shorten the bleaching cycle, reduce energy and water required and
deliver more consistent bleaching results. They have developed surfactants that are
environmentally friendly (in that they do not contain Alkylphenol ethoxylates), and the
system is both Oeko-Tex and GOTS approved. After fabric or yarn bleaching, residues of
hydrogen peroxide are left in the bath, and need to be completely removed prior to the
dyeing process, using a step called bleach cleanup. The traditional method is to neutralize
the bleach with a reducing agent, but the dose has to be controlled precisely. Incomplete
peroxide removal results in poor dyeing with distinct change of color shade and intensity, as
well as patchy, inconsistent dye distribution. Enzymes used for bleach clean-up ensure that
residual hydrogen peroxide from the bleaching process is removed efficiently – a small dose
of catalase breaks hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen. This results in cleaner waste
water and reduced water consumption.
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PRETREATMENT RANGE SPECIFICATION:
No of machines three
Speed of the machine 120-125mtrs per min
Working speed of the machine 60-80mtrs per min
Total roller width 85inches
Useful width 65inches
Water pressure required 2 Bar minimum
(over pressure) maximum 4 Bar
Saturated steam pressure required 4.5Bar
Length of the machine 86.5mtrs
Width of ptr 2mtrs
Bleaching production 45000mtrs per 12 hrs
MERCERIZATION:
Mercerization is a process in which the cotton material is treated with 25 to 30% NaOH
solution under tension at room temperature .Tension during mercerization is essential to
improve the luster. It produces a permanent change in the structure of the fibre.
It causes the flat, twisted, ribbon-like cotton fibre to swell into a round shape and to
contract in length. The fibre becomes much more lustrous than the original fibre. Tensile
strength is increased by as much as 20%.
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CHAIN MERSERIZING MACHINE:
The machine consists of two 3-bowl padding mangles containing NaOH solution, first one at
40°C and second at room temperature. The time of reaction with alkali may vary from 1 to
1.5 minutes, depending on the speed of the machine. From the second padding mangle, the
fabric reach the stenter unit. The function of the stenter is to pull the cloth to its original
width and then washed by counter current principle. The length of the stenter is 50 to 75
feet. The stenter frames hold the selvages tightly. The first 20 feet is used to stretch the
cloth to its original width and then washing takes place. Washing is done by counter current
principle, i.e., by means of decreasing the strength of alkali to fresh water. Fresh water is
introduced at the delivery end of the machine and the first wash liquor that the cloth meets
in the stenter is of significant alkali concentration. The washed alkali is used for kier boiling
and other purposes.
After washing, the cloth reaches the recuperator. The function of recuperator is to remove
any NaOH present in the fabric by the use of steam .It is a cast iron chamber and contains
two sets of guide rollers, the top row being driven. Low pressure steam is admitted into the
chamber, which impinges on the fabric, gets condensed and removes the alkali efficiently.
The fabric leaves the recuperator through the nip of a pair of squeeze rollers .Then the
fabric is given a hot wash .Souring treatment is given by using dilute HCl or sulphuric acid, to
neutralize the excess alkali.
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MERCERIZER SPECIFICATION:
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DYEING DEPARTMENT:
TWO TYPES OF DYEING PROCESS ARE PERFORMRD IN THE DYEING DEPARTMENT
• BATCH WISE DYING
• CONTINIOUS DYING
COLOUR PREPARATION:
Colour is prepared near the colour room in a dissolution tank according to the recipe after
preparation of colour, it is transferred to the mobile tank and then this mobile tank is
brought near to the padding mangle.
Reactive dye + acetic acid-0.2gpl-for reactive dyes
-1.2gpl-for vat dyes
BATCH SPECIFICATION:
Maximum quantity of one batch : 5000mtrs
Batch time :12-16hrs
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PRINTING DEPARTMENT:
All screens fit in perfectly, independent of the movement of the fabric or the blankets, so
that a perfect fitting of the design is obtained consistently. Speed of the machine can be
adjusted from 10 to 100 m/min .Printing is effected on a conveyor blanket, significantly
shorter than the one used for flat-bed printing. Printing machine is provided with a feed
arrangement, a selvage alignment unit and a continuous gluing unit for gumming down the
fabric. Nowadays, vacuum principle is used for holding the fabric tightly, without any
movement and creases .For cleaning, each rotary screen can be dismantled and washed.
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PRINTING PASTE PREPARATION FOR DIFFERENT DYES:
For pigment dyes –washing is not required-pigment dye printed fabrics are passed through
Ager and Curing machine
For discharge dyes-all three process Washing, Curing and then passed through Ager to
develop.
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FINISHING DEPARTMENT:
It is the last department in the processing house. In this industry some mechanical as well
as some chemical finishes are carried out.
CHEMICAL FINISHES:
• Normal finish
• Easy care finish
• Wrinkle free finish
• Oil repellent finish
• Soil release finish
• Water repellent finish
• Teflon finish
• Anti -bacterial finish
MECHANICAL FINISHES:
• Raising
• Peaching
• Calendaring
• Zero-zero finish
NO. Of machines 5
Manufacturer monforts
Working width 150cm
No. of chambers 8-10
Temperature range 100-210degree centigrade
Speed 120mtrs per min
Working speed with mangle 60-70 and without 80- 90mtrs/min
Blower circulation lower and upper
No. of exhaust 2
No. of clip 650aprox
No. of pins in one clip 25
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RECIPE FOR THE NORMAL FINISH:
FOR POPLIN:
SILICONE=20GPL
CATIONIC SOFTNER=20GPL
FOR SUITING:
SILICONE=30GPL
CATIONIC SOFTNER=30GPL
SANFORIZING PROCESS:
Lengthwise shrinkage is given in this machine. When the mechanical stresses, strain, tension
are applied during spinning and weaving etc...are released cause the fabric to shrink.
To overcome from this problem there is one mechanical finish known as sanforizing. Where
the amount or percentage of shrinkage depends on the following factors:
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MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF SANFORIZING MACHINE:
NO. Of machines 4
Manufacturer monforts
Working width 150cm
Rubber thickness 55mm
Felt temperature 120degree centigrade
Machine working speed 40mtrs per min
Length wise shrinkage given 4-6%
CALENDARING MACHINE:
Two calendars are in this factory:
To upgrade the fabric handle & to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric
To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness
To improve the opacity of the fabric
To reduce the air permeability of the fabric
To impart different degree of luster to the fabric
To reduce yarn slippage
For luster and feel
For shining
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QUALITY ASSURANCE (QA) IN INDUSTRY:
Q.A possess strong role in the production procedure. It has vital role in each and every step
of manufacturing process starting from spinning, raw material to weaving. It ensures the
quality of the product as well as the quality of the production procedure of the product to
achieve highest quality specification which is given by client.
Weaving: The samples that are made before finalizing order are also sent to the QA
Department for checking the basic parameters and the parameters that the buyer demands.
Various quality procedures are followed during the production so as to achieve quality
product.
The key parameters for the fabric:
1) EPI
2) PPI
3) GSM
4) Fabric Width
5) Strength
6) Warp and Weft Material
Other parameters could be:
7) Tearing Strength
8) Tensile Strength
9) Evenness
The costing of a product depends on the quality of material have and the process used to
receive that quality. Hence, QA follows a major role costing of the final product.
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Elongation is also determined at the same time i.e. Extension of the specimen held
between the grips during the tensile test. The machine consists of a sturdy metal plate base
with load.
Testing capacity is 3000 N.
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USTER TENSOJET 4
To measure single yarn strength, elongation percentage.
• Use for precise forecasting of yarn „run ability‟ in high-performance processes, with
a test speed of 400 m/min.
• 1 yarn goes 500 times for checking •23 types of fault can classify by it.
• Measurement of tensile strength and elongation of staple fiber yarns.
• Collection, evaluation and storage of measurement values and diagrams.
• Automatic check of all measured values.
• Measuring principle: Constant rate of extension CRE
TEAR TESTER
• Measuring the tearing strength.
• Testing Capacity- 640 gram
• Elimatear Digital Tear Tester
• Grading: A- 8.90N , B-19.00N, C-32.00N, D-64.00N •It follows ASTM and ISO quality
standards.
USTER CLASSIMAT QUANTUM
• To check the seldom occurring faults/100 km in yarn.
• Testing Speed is 400-800mts/min
• Used for measuring thick and thin places
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FINAL SAMPLING DEPAETMENT:
In this department samples are taken from the final lot of the finished product and inspect
the quality of the fabric. In this department there are few responsible officials whose duty is
to check for any kind of defect in the finished product and then consult the defect to the
responsible person or the department.
This department cut the sample of the defects they find out
Everyday there is a meeting at 12noun in which a person from every department is present
the defective samples are shown to the people. And the department responsible for the
defect is told to take care of defects next time.
After checking the fabric rolls are placed on a convare belt which brings the fabric roll to the
TESTA PACAKAGING machine from ITLAY which is a fully automatic pacakaging machine
which packs the fabric roll and delivers it to the dispatch unit.
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DISPATCH DEPARTMENT:
This department is a direct link between the marketing department and the pacakaging
\4epartment. Marketing department prepares A DO (delivery order) and inform it to the
dispatch department than the dispatch department checks it with the pacakaging
department weather the order is packed or not, if packed it dispatches the order according
to the capacity of the truck.
Generally the delivery of an order can be made in three parts if not prepared by the
company in time. In first part maximum quantity of the order should be dispatched.
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CONCLUSION:
In this internship module I have learnt lot of things. I have gone through three departments
that are weaving, garments and knitting in this time period. At the end of the internship we
come to know about industry and how it works. I learnt manufacturing and planning process
of the industry. Under this internship schedule, all the qualified appointed people helped
and guided us in understanding and learning different aspects of the industry.
In weaving division, we checked the PPC department, QA department, raw material
department, warping department, sizing department, auto drawing department, production
department, inspection and folding department, and also utility and maintenance
department.
In knitting division, I checked the production department.
In garments division, I checked merchandising department, PPC department, industrial
engineering department, CAD department, sampling department, fabric store department,
cutting and spreading department, printing and embroidery department, sewing
department, QA department, and finishing and packingo9q and dispatch department.
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