Open Access

Advance Research in Textile Engineering

Research Article

Sustainable Approach to Modify the CPD Process for Knit

Garments and Analysis the Effect of Curing Treatment on
CPD
Ali A1*, Hossain D1, Shahid MA1, Prasad RK2 and
Abstract
Miah S1
1
Department of Textile Engineering, DUET, Bangladesh The purpose of the study is to minimize the energy load of Cold pigment
2
Department of AMM, BUFT, Bangladesh dyeing (CPD) process by minimizing the process steps. As a representative
*Corresponding author: Ali A, Department of Textile effort in this direction, the current paper describes the effect of curing treatment
Engineering, DUET, Bangladesh on Cold pigment dyed garments considering different properties .Samples
pretreatment were done in the same bath and same method followed for both
Received: April 26, 2018; Accepted: July 11, 2018; samples. In case of dyeing, two different methods i.e. existing (Pad-dry-cure)
Published: July 18, 2018 and experimental (pad-dry) were used to develop the samples. Prepared
samples were evaluated in terms of CMC∆E value, color fastness properties,
drape co-efficient, GSM, fabric strength and surface morphology respectively.
Results of the study evinced that experimental process is better than existing
process by considering process time and energy savings. Color fastness value
of the experimental sample offer comparatively better values than the existing
process while other results are within range. Experimental process can reduced
up to 6% processing time along with 2.35 Kw power savings for each batch.
The experimental (pad-dry) process of CPD will provide a strong economical
benchmark for the garments dyeing industry to adopt this sustainable process.
Keywords: Garments dyeing; Cold pigment dyeing (CPD); Curing; Color
fastness properties; Drape co-efficient

Introduction variation on shade range shall be expected and a special hangtag to

inform customer this is not a defect is recommended [12]. When
In the fast fashion world when time to market is paramount, the
such process is carried out, it leads to a loss of many resources such
concept of garment dyeing post make up is increasingly adopted
as water, energy, chemicals and dyestuff, time, man-hour, etc. The
by manufacturers [1]. Garment dyeing can be defined [2] as the
concept of cleaner production has been practiced for many years
“application of color to fully fashioned apparel articles, may be in the
in different countries [13]. Such activities include measures such as
form of garments cut and sewn either prepared or unprepared knitted
pollution prevention, source reduction, waste minimization and eco-
fabrics and then dyed, garments and / or components knitted from
efficiency. At its heart, the concept is about the prevention rather than
either prepared or unprepared yarn and then dyed, The benefits of
the control of environmental pollution and minimizes the carbon
processing good through garment dyeing procedure revolve around
footprint also [14]. In this work, the concept of cleaner production
quick response with minimize lead time and improved inventory
including the process modification was carried out by eliminating the
control [3]. It is also increased the challenges of achieving the unique
curing stage at the experimental process. However, conventionally
,fashionable & value added products, while remaining comparative in
price similar to reduction in operating margins, the dyeing process this process was done in three stages namely pad-dry-cure process
should be more economical while producing high value product which is available in most manufacturing unit. But it is possible to
[4]. Pigments are kinds of insoluble colorants used for fibers, yarns complete the process by two stages i.e. pad-dry, keeping the garments
and garments very commonly, which can retain stable chemical fastness and other properties acceptable. Hence the later process can
structure throughout the coloration process in its dispersed solution be effective than existing process as one step is going to be eliminated
[5]. Water-based pigment systems, are eco-friendly pathways. which means reduction in processing time along with power and
Pigments are dispersed into water with the assist of auxiliaries, such cost savings. Experimental result shows that sample developed in
as dispersants, emulsifiers, anti-setting agents, etc. Water-based pad-dry process posses good properties in comparison with existing
pigment has been widely applied in coloration for textiles, paints, process (pad-dry-cure). Thus the experimental process can be used in
architecture, and wood and so on [6,7]. The Cold pigment dyeing is a manufacturing unit to perform cold pigment dyeing. The purpose
one kind of garments dyeing process which give an uneven look at low of this study is to establish a norm using experimental process which
temperature [8].This process is also referred to as wave dyeing, top will lead to reduce cost and power in manufacturing unit. Therefore,
dyeing, oil wash and random dyeing. It is a simple and eco-friendly the processes optimization and modification are the alternative
pigment dyeing process obtained by the usage of a binder, fixer along procedures to get the better cold pigment dyeing (CPD) efficiency
with pigments (any color) [9-11]. The specialty of this process is wide and environmentally friendly as the cleaner production concept.

Adv Res Text Eng - Volume 3 Issue 3 - 2018 Citation: Ali A, Hossain D, Shahid MA, Prasad RK and Miah S. Sustainable Approach to Modify the CPD Process
ISSN: 2572-9373 | www.austinpublishinggroup.com for Knit Garments and Analysis the Effect of Curing Treatment on CPD. Adv Res Text Eng. 2018; 3(3): 1029.
Ali et al. © All rights are reserved
Ali A Austin Publishing Group

process where the former one comprises of fast wash → drying

→padding→ drying → curing→ softening respectively and the later
one followed fast wash → drying → padding → drying → softening
respectively. Existing process usually known as pad-dry-cure method
where curing is done for fixation of pigments through binder. On
the other hand, the experimental process known as pad-dry method
follow padding and drying stages only.
Conventional process for Cold pigment dyeing (CPD) (Table 1)
Experimental process for Cold pigment dyeing (CPD) (Table 2)
Figure 1: Analysis of Color fastness to rubbing. Testing and analysis
Treated samples were tested using Universal testing machine
(Brand: Testometric, Model-M250-3CT, Origin: India); Fabric
drape tester (Model-M213, Brand –SDL ATLAS, Origin-UK); Fabric
drapeibility was tested according to Cusick Drape test (BS 5058)
method, Color fastness to rubbing (Test Method: ISO 105x12), Color
fastness to washing (Test Method: ISO 105C06C2S) and CMC∆E value
was determined by spectrophotometer (Brand: Data color Spectrum,
Origin: USA, Model: 650)
Results & Discussion
Measurement of color difference Value at 470nm
Figure 2: Analysis of Color fastness to washing.
CMC∆E value between two different processes was estimated from
the knit dyed garments. CIE color coordinates include color qualities
in terms of L* (lightness and darkness), c* (chroma) and H (hue) of
the fabrics are shown in (Table 3). ∆E value contains the information
of color depth, shade, and the hue of a sample. ∆E value is calculated
by using the CIE L*, a*, and b* values with the equation ∆E = (∆L*2
+ ∆a*2 + ∆b*2)1/2 where ∆L*,∆a*, and ∆b* values were the difference
between L* ,a*, and b* values of a pair of color standard and sample
(Rashid et al., 2014). The larger the ∆E value, the greater will be the
color difference between the pair of color standard and sample. The
experiment was carried out under light source of D65 at 100 and the
result shows the satisfactory result remarked as “pass”. The acceptable
Figure 3: Change of Drape-co efficient.
range of CMC∆E value is always less than one. So the experimental
process is within the acceptable range.

Methodology Color fastness to rubbing

Raw materials Color fastness to rubbing assessment was done for both samples
prepared by existing and experimental process. This test indicates the
The investigation has been carried out with 100% cotton knit
resistance of color fading during rubbing in wet and dry condition
fabric with under mentioned specifications-Fabric type: Single
where wet rubbing for a sample remain always less than dry rub.
jersey, GSM: 150-160, Yarn type: Combed, Yarn count: Ne-30/1s,
Figure 1 shows the increased values of the sample prepared in
Composition: 100% cotton, GG: 28, Form: RFD (Ready for dyeing).
experimental process which means color resistance to rub both in dry
Chemicals and wet condition of the experimental sample is much higher than
Imarol PCLF. Primafast gold RSL, Acetic acid, Printofix Orange existing process. This happens when shade become deeper during
HR, Printofix Red TN, Nk binder R-5HN ,Fixarez Resin FS-465E, curing process. There were no significant changes observed between
Sun-softener (A-300), Ultra-196, Citric acid etc. the existing and experimental process results. However the color
fastness for wet condition is lower than the dry process as always
Pre-treatment procedure pigments shows low in rubbing fastness results.
Samples were scoured and bleached in the single bath. Recipe
Color fastness to washing
followed to pre-treat the samples was H2O2 @ 4 g/l, NaOH @ 4 g/l,
Na2CO3 @ 3 g/l, wetting agent@ 1 g/l, sequestering agent@ 1g/l, M:L- During experiment, color fastness to wash properties of the
1:8, time-55 minutes and temperature 950C. prepared sample was determined which indicates the resistance of
a color during washing. This is assessed by color staining and color
Process steps of cold pigment dyeing (CPD) change principles where sample is treated with a tertiary fabric
Samples were developed by following existing and experimental constructed with multiple fibers. This test shows (Figure 2) good wash

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Table 1: Process Time and Energy for Conventional process.

Processing stage Temp(oC) Process Time(min)

Fast wash 55 30 min

Hydro-extracting Room 3 min

Drying 90 30 min

Padding Room

Hydro-extracting Room 3 min

Drying 90 40 min

Curing 130 10 min

Figure 4: Measurement of fabric weight (gm/m2). Softening Room 10

Hydro-extracting Room 3 min

Drying 90 40 min

Total Time= 169 min

Table 2: Process Time and Energy for Experimental process.

Processing stage Temp(oC) Process Time(min)

Fast wash 55 30 min

Hydro-extracting Room 3 min

Drying 90 30 min

Padding Room

Hydro-extracting Room 3 min

Drying 90 40 min

Softening Room 10

Hydro-extracting Room 3 min

Drying 90 40 min
Figure 5: A1) Face side of experimental sample; A2) Back side of
Total Time = 159 min
experimental sample; B1) Face side of conventional sample; B2) Back side
of conventional sample.
Table 3: CMCΔE value analysis of CPD process.
Process L* C* H* CMCΔE Comments
fastness for color changed and staining of the experimental process
compared to the existing process. Existing 73.92 39.14 41.86
0.48 Pass
Experimental 74.16 39.77 42.43
Effect on drape co-efficient values
Drape co-efficient value of the samples prepared in existing and Table 4: Measurement of bursting strength for experimental process.
experimental process were measured. Four samples from each side No of Trial Bursting strength (N) Stress @ Break (N/mm2)
were measured during testing. Results shows that existing process 1 151.89 0.096
sample posses lower drape co-efficient value than experimental process
2 177.11 0.111
sample which means the former one more flexible and drapeable than
the new one. This may happens due to curing operation where high Min 151.89 0.096

temperature is applied to garments results softer garments. But the Mean 164.50 0.103
average drape co-efficient value of both samples is close to each other
Table 5: Measurement of bursting strength for existing process.
(Figure 3) with a variation 0.6% which is acceptable.
No of Trial Bursting strength (N) Stress @ Break (N/mm2)
Effect on GSM value after dyeing
1 167.89 0.106
GSM value of the samples were determined which indicates that
2 163.65 0.103
after dyeing gsm has increased in existing process as dye molecules
added during dyeing process (Figure 4) results increase in fabric min 163.65 0.103

weight per unit area. On the other hand GSM value of the sample mean 165.77 0.105
prepared in experimental process get down which may be the cause
of bio-polishing or enzyme wash. it may also happened due to the Bursting strength
contractions of knit loops due to the effect of curing as a results the From (Table 4,5), it can be seen that average bursting strength
experimental process samples shows minor variation of GSM value is 164.50 N for experimental process where as in the conventional
to the existing process . As the variance between the results was 1.9% process the sample valued 165.77N Also the stress at break keep
which is less than the standard tolerance limits (5%) increasing trend. In this analysis the samples of conventional process

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shows slightly higher strength .This can be explained that the value of Acknowledgement
conventional process samples for strength due to the contraction of
loops contributing compact structure of the fabric surface. However, Thanks to Unique Washing & Dyeing Limited and Unique
the extent of change is not very significant. This reveals that the Designers Limited for giving all support regarding sample preparation.
physical properties of experimental samples are not affected by curing References
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better result for GSM, Drape co-efficient values whereas experimental

process values are within tolerance for which these are acceptable so
far. For shades both samples CMC∆E value are within accepted limit.
But considering color fastness properties to rubbing and washing it
can be clearly stated that experimental process is better than existing
one. Besides, the later one requires less power and processing time
which is an indicator for cost reduction.

Adv Res Text Eng - Volume 3 Issue 3 - 2018 Citation: Ali A, Hossain D, Shahid MA, Prasad RK and Miah S. Sustainable Approach to Modify the CPD Process
ISSN: 2572-9373 | www.austinpublishinggroup.com for Knit Garments and Analysis the Effect of Curing Treatment on CPD. Adv Res Text Eng. 2018; 3(3): 1029.
Ali et al. © All rights are reserved

Submit your Manuscript | www.austinpublishinggroup.com Adv Res Text Eng 3(3): id1029 (2018) - Page - 04