Accuracy

As anyone who has taken one of my classes can attest I am very accuracy oriented. My classes
always stress a high degree of accuracy. That is because in a gunfight accuracy will almost
always suffer. There are many reasons for this not the least of which is you may very well be
receiving fire from your assailant. In addition there is a high likelihood that you will be moving,
your enemy may be moving, and it could be in an environment of limited visibility.

All of these factors and countless others will have a negative affect on accuracy. The hope is that
if you strive for a high degree of accuracy in your training that when your accuracy suffers in a
gunfight, it will still be enough to get the job done. This approach has been used with great
effectiveness in Tier One special operations units for years. I am a product of that school of
thought, and I have trained a great many of these soldiers with that approach uppermost in my
mind.

Whenever I teach drills, I always tell my students to shoot as fast as they can, but not at the
expense of a reasonable accuracy standard. One of the techniques I use frequently is to place a 25
yd pistol bullseye center target on the chest area of an IPSC or IDPA target. I then tell the
students to shoot as fast as they can on each and every drill but always strive to keep the shots in
the black of the bullseye. On drills such as shooting on the move this is opened up to keep your
shots on the replacement center paper. This is commonly known as the “aim small, miss small”
approach. Part way through the first day I will peel off the bullseye and show the students the
large ragged hole that inevitable results from this drill. This reinforces the teaching point that
speed is fine, but accuracy is final – words that I live by.

Another question I get frequently asked is what is the acceptable mechanical or intrinsic
accuracy for a service pistol or carbine. Meaning what should the weapon/ammo combination be
capable of producing from a shooting device or rest that eliminates shooter error. Keep in mind I
come from a surgical accuracy oriented special operations background with little margin for
error. Based on this and years of experience I have concluded that a service pistol should be
capable of head shots at 25 yds and a service carbine should be capable of the same at 100 yds –
basically 5 inch groups. However there is a catch; I have found that under conditions of stress a
shooter will only be able to shoot to within roughly 50 % of the accuracy potential of a given
weapon. And that is only for the best shooters; the majority will not even be close to that. That
means in order to achieve my standard of head shots (5 inch groups) at a given distance the
weapon/ammo combination needs to be capable of at least 2.5 inch groups. I personally measure
that accuracy standard with 10 shot groups. Many quality service pistols and carbines with good
ammo will achieve this but there are many other factors involved such as sights and trigger pull
characteristics. By these criteria it is not hard to see why a tuned 1911 pistol is so popular in
selected spec ops units. Keep in mind that any effort to make a weapon more accurate almost
always means tightening tolerances which can lead to a less than acceptable reliability standard
for a combat weapon. A balance between accuracy and reliability has to be achieved.
Surprisingly there are many pistols and carbines that do a good job offering an acceptable blend
of both. In addition weapons of this type will require a higher degree of end user maintenance to
keep them running. Don’t expect a pistol to shoot like a custom 1911 but be as forgiving about
maintenance as a Glock 17; it just doesn’t happen that way.

In closing always strive to maintain a high degree of accuracy in your training sessions. It will
serve you well in case you ever have to use your weapon for real. Remember the motto of this
website: Speed is fine – Accuracy is final.

Battle Rifles
I frequently get asked which battle rifle is my choice for a preferred 7.62mm weapon. I have one
of about every type ever made in my personal reference collection, and some are better than
others in a given area, but the one I have always liked the best is the FAL. The M14 can be tuned
to a higher degree of accuracy and the G3 I would consider the most rugged, but all things
considered the FAL as a 7.62mm battle rifle or carbine is, in my opinion, the all around best
choice.

I currently own 14 FAL style rifles of different flavors, mostly original Belgian made guns, but I
would recommend a buyer look hard at DS Arms offerings if you find yourself shopping for a
7.62mm rifle or carbine vs paying the high price for a pre ban Belgian FAL. In addition DS
Arms deserves the lions share of credit of keeping the FAL viable in this day and age and
offering more options and varieties than Fabrique Nationale ever dreamed of. I own 3 DS Arms
FAL style rifles and I find them well made, more than adequately accurate, and reliable if you
know how to treat an FAL. Make no mistake the FAL is not an AK; you cannot abuse it like an
AK and expect it to work. If you treat it with the respect it deserves however it will serve you
quite well. Jeff Cooper said it well; “The AK is the rifle for the masses and the FAL is the rifle
for the classes”. As he so often did Jeff summed up the situation perfectly; and make no mistake
the FAL is the rifle for the classes.

Featuring excellent engineering the FAL has always been a weapon that holds a special place in
my heart. In addition it features attention to detail and quality construction throughout. I find
serious firearms enthusiasts almost always love the FAL for the sake of the remarkable design
characteristics. For a serious use FAL my favorite is the tactical carbine offered by DS Arms.
With an aluminum alloy lower receiver and 16.25 inch barrel it makes for a very handy 7.62mm
carbine. For my particular version I used an Israeli mag release, a Norwegian AK4 style
modified FAL bolt carrier with forward assist scallop, and DSA scope mount. I also mounted a
Surefire flashlight with a Vltor clamp to a short piece of picatinny rail to the handguard. I topped
it off with an excellent Schmidt & Bender Short Dot II scope with a 7.62 mm M118LR BDC.
The S&B scope is heavy duty so to keep the weight down I opted against a DSA modular rail
system. After I did a radiusing of all sharp edges DSA black Duracoated all the metal and I
installed one of my VCAS slings. The end result is a superb general purpose battle carbine. It
would be my first choice in a .30 caliber carbine to take into harms way.

There are countless spare parts and accessories available for the FAL on the market. Many of the
parts interchange with other FAL variants so customizing your 7.62mm rifle is easier than with
any other long gun save the AR family. DS Arms not surprisingly is an excellent source for FAL
parts and a simple Google search will reveal several others also.

A few end user tips on the FAL: keep it reasonably clean and well lubed, learn how the gas
regulator functions and how to adjust it, and only load 18 rds in the magazine. In my experience
if you abide by these rules the FAL will serve you well.

I can recommend the FAL as a weapon and DS Arms as a vendor of guns, parts, and accessories
for the FAL. If you are in the market for a serious 7.62mm rifle or carbine, give them a call.

Binoculars
As my friends know one of my passions in life is high end optics. I have an extensive collection
of WW II binoculars and optics as well as post war optics or various types. I don’t consider
myself an expert by any means but I definitely know quality when I see it. I have a real weakness
for binoculars in particular and after owning, using, and studying over 20 pairs of binos in my
growing collection I feel I can pass on some of my “observations”.

1) Best kept secret in binoculars; Post War East German Carl Zeiss Jena. I own several different
types of Carl Zeiss Jena binos and for the money they are hard to beat. The birthplace of high
quality coated optical glass as we know it is Jena, Germany and the Zeiss name was made
famous from the superb optics coming from this region. The East Germans kept up this tradition
from behind the Iron Curtain. Some of the features are a bit dated but the overall quality and
clarity of the glass is superb. When the wall was up G.I.’s stationed in Germany and Berlin could
go into East Germany on pass and buy binoculars and Carl Zeiss Cameras for peanuts. Those
days are long gone but Carl Zeiss Jena binoculars can be purchased on eBay regularly for very
reasonable prices. I have a total of nine pairs of Carl Zeiss Jena binoculars so I feel safe
revealing my secret. For the money, they represent the best value in binoculars today.

2) Best quality binoculars at any price; Leica. I have a total of four different pairs of Leica
binoculars/laser rangefinders and without a doubt in my mind they are the best that money can
buy. The overall quality of construction, attention to detail, and optical quality is second to none.

My personal favorites at this time are the compact 8 x 20 BCA Trinovid and the magnificent 8 x
42 Geovid. The very compact Leica 8 x 20 binoculars have better overall performance than most
full size 8 x binoculars from other makers. Normally compact binoculars suck big time but these
Leicas are truly in a league of their own. My good friend Larry Bullock before he passed away
turned me onto these superb little binos and I am forever indebted to him for it. If you have never
looked through a pair do yourself a favor and try them; trust me you will be impressed. Leica has
recently introduced the Ultravid series. Other than at trade shows I have yet to seriously shake
out any binos from this new line. From what I have seen and heard they take Leica Binocular
excellence to an even higher level. I look forward to an extensive T&E with a pair.

In my opinion the most impressive binoculars/laser rangefinders I have ever had the pleasure of
using are the new Leica Geovid Series. I have the 8 x 42 version in yards and if I could only own
one pair of binoculars this would be it. As is the Leica standard overall quality and attention to
detail is impeccable. Hell, even the box and packaging it comes in reeks of quality. With only a
very slight weight and size penalty compared to standard 8 x binos they double as an excellent
laser rangefinder with an effective range of approx 1300 yards or 1200 meters depending on the
version. In addition they have the Leica range finding scan feature that allows the user to move
the laser from one target to another and get updated ranging information every couple seconds.
They are only available in black at this time. I am hoping Leica will offer them in different
tactical colors (OD Green and Coyote Brown for starters) and I would also like to see a
ranging/mildot reticle for a backup to the laser rangefinder. These two items would put this
binocular over the top. They sell in the $1900 – $2000 range and they are worth every penny.

If you can only buy one pair of binoculars in your lifetime this is it. Absolutely top of the line.

There you have it – a Reader’s Digest version of the world according to me regarding binoculars.
Enjoy.

Carbine Slings
With the introduction of my quick adjust two point sling design by Blue Force Gear, I felt it was
time to share my thoughts on carbine slings. For those who have had my carbine classes this will
be old news but those who haven’t may enjoy reading this.

1) Single Point Slings – As many of you know I am not a fan of this design. In my opinion it has
far too many negatives for very few positives. The one big plus of the single point design is it is
very easy to switch from shoulder to shoulder for weak side barricade shooting. It is a big
advantage in that situation. However I honestly cannot think of another attribute it has;
everything else in my opinion is negative. It tends to make the rifle dangle and hang off of you
like a dead cocker spaniel. When you are shooting on the move after a transition it tends to
interfere with your movement as the carbine wants to hang in front of your body. It also likes to
hang up on kit as it is tight around your upper torso. When you take a knee it is guaranteed you
will muzzle strike the ground unless you control it. Also if you are trying to climb anything it
wants to hang in front of your body and prevent you from climbing efficiently. Single point
slings are great if you are static at the 7 yd line and play bullet hose but other than that, in my
humble opinion, they suck. As far as I am concerned all the negatives greatly outweigh the sole
positive feature.

2) Three Point Slings – I very rarely see these in classes anymore as I think everyone has gotten
the word on them. With an AR style carbine they are about the worst possible choice. They offer
none of the advantages of an adjustable two point with almost every negative in the book. They
tend to hang up on kit big time. For a right hander they can interfere with controls and for a left
hander they interfere with ejection. If you are standing around with no body armor on they may
be cool (I don’t think so) but with any gear on shooters quickly figure out they are lame beyond
belief. Like I said fortunately most people have gotten the word on three point slings so they are
scarce in the circles I run in.
3) Two Point Slings – Non adjustable two point slings like a standard USGI M16 sling offer real
advantages in the ability to transition easily and keep the sling from hanging up on kit but suffer
from the fact they are rarely the ideal length for any given task. They are generally too long or
too short depending on a shooters position. Enter the quick adjust two point sling; in my opinion
the best all around choice for a carbine sling and the overwhelming favorite in the Spec Ops
circles I run in. It offers the best features, all things considered, with one negative vs. a single
point design. Most of the time you will have to unsling one shoulder to do weak side barricade
shooting. This of course depends on how you wear it and the kit you have on at the time. I used a
two point quick adjust sling for nearly two decades with excellent results.

In later years I realized the sling I used was in serious need of updating, so I set about refining
the design, all the while searching for a vendor to make my idea of the best two point quick
adjust sling available. Luckily for me, I had Ashley Burnsed of Blue Force Gear in a recent
carbine/pistol class. I was impressed with not only his open-minded attitude, but the superb
quality of his products. We put our heads together, and after a short time, the Vickers Tactical
Combat Applications Sling was the result. In my obviously biased opinion, it is the best
adjustable two point design to date. Ashley did a great job turning my ideas into hardware. Initial
feedback from some very experienced end users has been overwhelmingly positive. The VCAS
has been a runaway success beyond our own high expectations. Needless to say, we are both
very excited about this project.

A version with a wider padded strap for heavier rifles is now available. For added strength, we
developed the VCAS Cobra with the Cobra quick release buckle and all metal hardware. We
have also developed a version for the SAW and M240. Soon we are going to put our heads
together to design a purpose built special cutaway version. Stand by for updates.

In closing, I recommend you try a quick adjust two point sling; if not mine then another vendor’s
design. I think eventually you will agree with me in it is the best choice given all the factors
involved.

Weapon Magazines
Magazines are the single most critical component of the weapons system; a properly designed
and fabricated magazine can enhance a weapons reliability dramatically whereas a poor
magazine can make it non functional. After using modern small arms on nearly a daily basis for
over 20 years and having first hand knowledge of what it takes to make a reliable magazine I
have come up with some key things to live by;

1.) Baby them. Treat your magazines as gently as you can within the realm of realistic training.
Don’t drop them fully loaded during a mag reload drill as that is very abusive and does not
reflect reality. Don’t drop them on hard surfaces such as concrete and gravel as a matter of habit.
If it is necessary to do this due to range restrictions then put down something to cushion the
dropped magazine.
2.) On tough to seat mags, download at least 1 round. If a fully loaded mag is difficult to seat
with the slide or bolt assembly in battery then download the mag by at least 1 round as a matter
of habit. USGI aluminum M16 magazines are a good example of this as they are really only
properly designed to take 28 rounds, not 30 as advertised.

3.) Leave loaded only when necessary and rotate with fresh magazines monthly. This will
increase the longevity of your magazines.

4.) Attempt to keep them clean particularly in sandy and salt water environments. Do not
oil the magazine internals as this tends to attract debris.

5.) Use OEM mags as a general rule. Original manufacturer mags tend to be the best choice
across the board. An exception would be magazines for 1911 and AR15 magazines. 1911
manufacturers as a general rule supply a cheap low bid magazine with their pistols as they realize
most serious shooters will buy higher quality aftermarket magazines. Wilson 1911 magazines are
some of the finest on the market. For the AR, Magpul magazines are worth a hard look.

6.) They require periodic replacement. I know this will come as a shocker for some of you but
believe it or not after awhile you need to trash your mags and buy new ones if they are used a lot.
They take a lot of abuse and are expected to work 100% of the time with no exceptions yet be
reasonably priced. This is a tall order and it means that after awhile they have simply have met
their service life and need to be replaced. I know it is a radical concept for some people but it is
the truth.

I have lived by these guidelines for years and have had exceptionally good luck with my
magazines. Those who know me also know my weapons tend to work very reliably and a major
reason is I treat my magazines with the respect they deserve. I would recommend you do the
same.

Shooting on the Move

All you have to do is watch the dash cam videos of law enforcement traffic stops to realize when
bullets start flying no one is standing still. The static range training most people do is great for
building fundamentals but don’t think that is where combat marskmanship begins and ends.
Simply put you have to develop a skill set that allows you to shoot on the move effectively and
practice it often. Your life may very well depend on it.

What follows is some key points of consideration about shooting on the move as I see it.
Students in my classes know I always include a comprehensive shooting on the move segment in
every class and I consider it absolutely essential training each and every time you go to the
range. You need to train to a realistic standard and apply key principles to allow you to meet that
standard. Here goes;

1) Make your lower body do its job; the most critical aspect to shooting on the move is
minimizing vibrations that transfer above the pelvis (belt line) that in turn affect accuracy. You
can’t eliminate vibrations, just dramatically reduce them. This is done by laying your feet down
in a ‘rolling’ fashion such as heel to toe roll, bringing your feet closer together when walking
to mitigate the side to side sway many people display, and most importantly make your knees
absorb the shock of each step. Frankly you can half ass the first two principles and if you do a
great job using your knees like torsion suspension you can still effectively shoot on the
move. Using a visible laser at home as a training aid walking around your house (to the dismay
of your significant other) to practice your movement techiques has value as the laser provides
excellent feedback as to what is working and what is not.

2) Bend the elbows and stay flexible; Being rigid or tense does not work well in shooting and
never more so than when doing mobile shooting. You have to stay loose and allow your joints to
absorb the vibration so as to allow your weapon to almost seem like it is ‘floating’ in front of
you. If you are moving and your weapon is doing alot of sharp ‘dips’ during movement as
perceived through the sites then your doing something wrong (often times the knees are the
culprit; remember don’t just bend your knees, take the shock of each step out with your knees –
big difference) . Remember to stay loose.

3) Train to a realistic standard; Accuracy will suffer somewhat while moving – no way around it.
A good rule of thumb is you want to be able to cover your shots with your hand – roughly a 6
inch circle in the center of the chest. Of course you will occasionally throw some shots out of
that circle but never more than 2 to 3 out of 10 shots fired. If so you need to dial back in on the
basics. By this standard shooting on the move is approx a 15 yd and in exercise with a handgun
and 20 yds and in with a carbine. You can put shots on target farther out than that but accurate
upper torso hits become much more difficult and the shooting will turn into suppressive fire
instead of surgical shots on target. Remember the bad guy ain’t gonna stand still either so you
need to keep it real when training for this critical skill.

4) Practice shooting on the move in all directions; Of course moving straight toward an opponent
or straight back is not ideal but may not be avoided. The fact of the matter is you need to be able
to shoot on the move in any direction as despite what some instructors teach when and where
you have to engage a threat cannot be accurately predicted in the real world unlike in an IPSC 3
gun match. Remember the hostile action of the threat is what dictates your actions not the beep
from a shot timer.

5) Practice trigger control; Most shooters who have bad shots with a handgun on the move do so
because they jerk the trigger NOT because they are moving. This occurs because the brain
exaggerates the movement of the pistol in relation to the target and this causes many shooters to
ambush the trigger instead of cleanly breaking the shot within an acceptable wobble zone. A Red
Dot sight on a carbine definately makes this task easier but I have found the better you become at
mobile shooting with a pistol the skill set transfers nicely to the same drill with a long gun.

6) The more you do it the better you get; Make it a goal to practice this skill every time you go to
the range. In this case literally practice makes perfect as like with many other difficult shooting
skill sets the better you become at mobile shooting the better you will become in other aspects of
combat marksmanship. Some ranges won’t allow it but make no mistake it is a potentially life
saving skill so seeking out a range that does allow it is critical. You can certainly practice the
moving aspects at home with dry fire but at some point you have to get to the range and bust
some caps while moving.

A closing thought is to remind readers that many of the static range drills are very useful for
building a solid grasp of the fundamentals but at some point you have to take it to the next level
and apply yourself at mastering those same skills on the move.

Weapon Lights
I have a lot of experience in low light/night time tactical scenarios due to my time in the military,
specifically in US Army Special Operations. This experience has led me to uncover some truths
about fighting in low light situations and the use of white light in general. I have discovered that
there are almost as many cons to the use of white light at night as there are pros. White light is
without peer as a tool to identify threats and target discriminate; however it can also be used
against you by illuminating your position for the enemy. This potentially fatal flaw is often
overlooked or not fully understood in the world of tactical training as we know it today.

There are a couple of rules I live by when it comes to the use of white light.
They are as follows:

1.) Use only when necessary. Do not fall into the bad habit of wanting to turn night into day by
turning your light on and leaving it on. This gives you a false sense of security and let’s
everyone know exactly where you are located – including the enemy.

2.) Use it extremely sparingly. There is no better way to announce to the world your exact
location during periods of low light than turning on a white light. It gives the enemy an exact fix
on your whereabouts and can turn your white light into a bullet sponge.

Night Vision Goggles are a tremendous asset that should be used instead of white light when
outside or in areas such as warehouses or aircraft hangers. These large open areas are unique in
that any white light self illumination will serve to put you at risk without any of the benefit of
white light for the end user. This is due to the high likelihood of an enemy being outside the
effective range of the white light. NVG’s with an IR cover for the white light is a better solution
in these scenarios. Minimal use of IR light is also a good rule of thumb with the increasingly
wide spread use of Night Vision devices worldwide.

Some law enforcement trainers and agencies teach once you have a subject illuminated you
should keep it illuminated. That technique works well if you only have one threat; however if
there are other threats nearby it is good way to become a human bullet trap. My attitude would
be to use your white light conservatively until you have a definite handle on who you’re up
against. You can always use more white light if needed – it is much more difficult to teach
yourself to use less.

Ken Hackathorn and I have developed a unique approach to the use of white light at night. We
both are now teaching it with excellent results from students in our classes. It is called the
Hackathorn/Vickers Flashbulb Technique or HV Technique for short. It incorporates movement
along with a distinct flashbulb effect for illumination and target discrimination. The basic
premise behind the technique is only use a minimal amount of white light to identify your target,
then if needed another “flashbulb” application to determine if it is a threat. After that, engage if
necessary to eliminate the threat. The entire time continue to move so if the target begins to
return fire it is directed at where you just left, not where you are located now. It requires practice
but the results tend to be dramatically better than any other technique that Ken or I are aware of.
These courses will focus on proper use of white light using the HV technique as well as the
tactical applications of Crimson Trace lasergrips and lasers in general. All things related to
shooting and fighting at night with a carbine and pistol will be covered in detail including night
sights, point shooting, equipment selection, and house clearing.

Weapon Lubrication
Far and away the most common problem I see when instructing is lack of proper
lubrication. This goes for civilians, LE, and military. Of the groups I train on a regular basis
military Spec Ops definitely understands the importance of lube the most but it is still common
to find weapons not lubricated properly. And what I mean by properly is having lube in/on the
working parts of the weapon.

Many weapon systems will not tolerate lack of lubrication and continue to function for any
length of time. The US military M16/M4 family and M9 pistol are prime examples of two
weapons that do not work well or for long without lubricant. Another example is tightly fitted
custom or semi custom 1911 pistols. Simply put these weapons and others REQUIRE lubricant
to function reliably – no way around it.

There are weapons that do not require alot of lubricant to function reliably. The AK family and
Glock pistols come to mind. Also HK does extensive testing for reliable function with little or no
lube so by and large HK weapons are very forgiving to lack of lubricant by design. However too
many shooters rely on that as standard operating procedure and don’t assess the situation
correctly; these guns are designed to continue to function without lube in EXTREME (not daily)
conditions but every weapon works better with lubricant.

The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and
dry. Truer words have never been spoken about weapons lubricant. Guns always work better the
cleaner they are but most modern designs are far more forgiving about carbon fouling than they
are about lubrication. Remember to keep it lubed always and clean it when you can and you will
be much better off over the long haul.

The topic of keeping a weapon dry in desert environments comes up quite often. Sand is the
ultimate enemy of guns and can wreak havoc with modern small arms. I have been part of
extreme weapons testing and can tell you that I have no doubt in my mind that in sandy
environments you are much better of with a gun that is wet than one that is dry. Having sand coat
your small arm like a sugar cookie with some lubricant still in place is a better situation than a
completely dry weapon in a sandy environment. Your weapon may still malfunction but not
anything like it would if it was bone dry. It is unbelievable how non functional a dry weapon can
become in an extreme sandy environment. It will become manually operated at a bare minimum.
Your best bet for a functional weapon in extreme conditions is to keep it lubed and keep it
covered. It may take longer to employ the weapon depending on the cover used but it will most
likely work when you need it to.

Last thing I will cover is choice of lubricant. First off any lube is better than no lube. Just
because you don’t have your favorite synthetic gun oil doesn’t mean you don’t lube your
weapon. With that being said in my experience the thin light lubes like WD40 and RemOil are to
be avoided. They will provide a rust barrier and that is about it; they are not suitable for moving
parts lubricant. There are alot of lubes on the market but I still like TW25B for a grease type lube
and Militec for a wet lube. My friend Ken Hackathorn swears by aircraft grade Lubriplate and
has used it for years as a grease type lube. The grease type lubricants require more effort to apply
but tend to stay put longer. TW25B is superb for crew served weapons like belt feed machine
guns and is the best lubricant I have ever seen for sandy or wet environments. In my old unit we
affectionately call it ‘desert jizz’ because once we started using it the reliability of our belt fed
weapons increased dramatically in extreme environments such as the desert. Highly
recommended.

There are times where applying a grease lubricant is a pain such as high volume range fire
sessions. For those applications as well as general purpose use I have used and like Militec wet
lube. From my experience it works well even in temperature extremes and is the right balance
between being too thin to do the job and so thick it gums up when cold. Keep in mind it is easy
to apply so it is easy to come off also. With wet lubes like Militec you have to lubricate your
weapon more frequently than with a grease like TW25B.

Please don’t get your panties in a bunch since I did not mention your pet lubricant. I am sure
there are dozens of excellent lubricants on the market I am not aware of that do a great job; I am
simply stating what has worked for me with very good results for many years. In parting I would
remind you to remember two key points about weapons lube; any lube is better than no lube and
you can run a gun dirty and wet (or lubed) but you cannot run one dirty and dry. Abide by these
two rules and they will do you right