How to Build

How to Build a Shipping Container Cabin

I have tried to summarize my construction posts here to make it easier for someone to get an
overview of what was done. I consider this a living document and will try to make additions
and changes as my cabin progresses.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional builder, engineer, or architect. What I have written here is strictly a
description of what I have done and not advice. I make no assurances that this will work, meet code,
or be safe to inhabit for you. Building with shipping containers can be dangerous and may injure (ask
me how I know) or kill you. If you attempt anything similar to this you do so at your own risk.

1. Design your cabin

Before you buy any containers or do anything else, you should have some idea how you want
to live in your shipping container cabin. Figure out how much space you want, or really need,
and start working up a floor plan. For the most part you will be limited to standard shipping
container dimensions of 8′x20′ or 8′x40′ and multiples of these. The simplest arrangement of
containers is to line them up as I did, but you are really only limited by your imagination and
checkbook.

A great tool to design your shipping container cabin is Google SketchUp. You can get
detailedshipping container models for Google SketchUp from ISBU News, and almost
everything else you might need from Google’s 3D Warehouse. If you are looking for some
inspiration, take a look at the tiny house websites Tiny House Design and Tiny House Blog.

The pics below show the exterior and interior design of my shipping container cabin.

Related posts:
The Initial Design
My Favorite Tool
An Alternate Design

2. Consult an engineer

If you are thinking about removing any walls or other structural components of a shipping
container, it would be best to consult with a qualified engineer. Removing structural
components of a shipping container, without the proper reinforcement, could make the
structure unsafe. A few openings for doors and windows will probably not affect a containers
structural integrity, but large scale modifications like mine definitely will.

One of the more well known engineers in this field is George Runkle of Runkle Consulting. He
was very helpful with my small project, and I recommend him without reservation.

3. Purchase your containers

Depending on where you obtain your containers, you may need to plan for this well in
advance. My containers were special ordered from China and took over four months to
arrive. Used shipping containers are more readily available, but then you don’t really know
what’s been inside them during their service.

There are too many places to buy containers to list them here, but a quick search on the net
will turn up more than you need. Another option is to search craigslist for containers that are
nearby. Buying them locally will allow you to inspect them before you buy, which is critical
when shopping for used containers.

Related posts:
Buying the Containers

4. Build a foundation

A foundation can range anywhere from some concrete or wooden supports on the ground for a
single container all the way up to a full basement for multiple containers. Your decision will
need to consider both what is structurally required and your own personal preferences. It’s
probably best to consult with a qualified builder or engineer to design a proper foundation for
your container cabin.

If you decide on some type of poured concrete foundation, then you should plan on embedding
steel plates into the concrete where the container corner blocks will rest. This will allow the
containers to be welded directly to the concrete foundation. My steel plates were 10″x10″x1/4″
with lengths of angled rebar welded to each of them. These were then inserted into the
foundation right after the concrete was poured.

The foundation below was designed to support three connected 8′x20′ shipping
containers. While this could have been accomplished with piers instead of walls, I much
preferred the look of walls. Take note of the two piers in the center of the foundation. These
were required to add additional support to the floors since I was removing all of the walls
between the containers. This type of support may or may not be required depending on how
much, if any, of the walls you remove.
If you need a cheap and easy do-it-yourself foundation, piers are probably the best
choice. They also have much less impact on the site if that is important to you.

Related posts:
Foundation Plans
Excavation and Footings
The Finished Foundation

5. Place the containers

The easiest way to place shipping containers on your foundation is with a crane. I have seen a
lot of different methods on the web, but nothing beats the ease, speed, and safety of a
crane. Not having a crane myself, I hired out the task to a local builder. He had a small crane
that he uses for setting sections of prefab houses, which worked very well.

If you don’t have access to a crane, there are other ways to move containers, especially 20
footers. Some container suppliers have Swing Thru trucks that can not only deliver, but also lift
and set containers a short distance from the truck. If your container supplier has one of these
and can get close to your foundation, you’re set. Another option is to rent a rough terrain
forklift for a few hours. 20′ shipping containers have forklift pockets built into them specifically
for this type of handling. Forklift capacities vary greatly, so make sure you get one that can
handle the ~5,000 pound weight of a 20′ container.

Once your containers have been placed on the foundation, it’s relatively easy to make any final
adjustments with a large crowbar. As you can see in the picture below, a single person can
easily adjust a container with just one crowbar.
Related posts:
The Containers Arrive

6. Connect the containers

Containers can be connected using bolts, specialized clamps, or through welding. The easiest
method for DIYers, but not necessarily the most secure, would be with sets of large bolts and
drilled/punched metal plates. The metal plates would need to fit inside the corner fittings, and
would act as heavy duty washers for the bolts. I had some of these made for me, and while
they would have worked, we finally decided to just weld them together since the welder would
be there attaching the containers to the foundation plates anyways. I would still consider using
bolts, however, if I ever thought I would want to disassemble the structure someday.

A really slick alternative, although usually very expensive, would be to use clamps specifically
designed to connect containers together. An excellent example of these are
the TANDEMLOCHorizontal Connectors. These would be an excellent choice if you needed
some type of quick assembly and disassembly built into your container structure.

The most secure method, and probably not that difficult for a handy person, would be to simply
weld the containers together. As long as you never plan to disassemble the containers this is
probably the best option. Since I have never welded anything myself, I can’t really give any
advice here on welding containers. Just be sure to let your welder know that they will be
welding Corten steel. Something very simple that I never thought of, but fortunately my
contractor did, was to use come-alongs to pull the containers tightly together for welding. It
was easy, worked very well, and I would definitely do it again.

The pictures below show the come-alongs used to hold the containers together, a container to
foundation plate weld, and a container to container weld. While I’m not an expert, the welds
did look a bit rough to me. Maybe there’s just a different standard I need to get used to in the
boonies of northern Wisconsin.
7. Add reinforcement

Before any structural components (i.e. walls) are removed, and before the roof goes on, it’s
time to add any structural reinforcement that may be necessary. As mentioned in section two
above, I highly recommend that you consult a qualified engineer to spec out any structural
reinforcement you may need.

While I can’t make recommendations for any other shipping container cabin, I can tell you what
was done for mine. Since I was removing all four of the interior container walls, considerable
reinforcement would be needed to replace the support being lost. My engineer for this project,
George Runkle of Runkle Consulting, determined that two 6″x3″x1/4″ steel box beams would
be required to strengthen the roof of the containers where the four walls were removed. The
box beams were stitch welded to each of the container box beams that ran the length between
each set of containers. The beams were 18′ 7″ in length to fit between the top plates in
addition to being angle cut to fit under the rafters.

The picture below shows one of the box beams welded to the roof between two of the shipping
containers.

8. Build a roof
Depending on where you build, and how/if your containers are combined, you may not even
need a roof. If you do need a roof, or just want one for appearance sake, it’s really not that
hard to build one. A simple low pitched (3:12 or 4:12) shed roof, if you like that look, is
probably the easiest and cheapest to build. Be sure to keep in mind how you are going to
insulate the roof, and whether of not you will need access under the roof to do it.

My roof was a variation of the typical pole shed found around here with rafters and purlins
covered with galvanized metal roofing. A simple roof like mine can be completed in just a
couple of days with three moderately skilled people. If you’re interested in the details of my
roof, I recommend you read my Roof Plans post.

Related posts:
Roof Plans
Raising the Roof

9. Cut out openings

Removing metal from your containers is only necessary if you need passage between the
containers, or you plan to add window and/or door openings to the container walls. There are
lots of ways to cut through container steel, including a plasma cutter, cutting torch, grinder, and
even a jig saw. Don’t laugh at the last suggestion as I easily cut my chimney pipe opening with
one. I wouldn’t want to remove an entire wall with one, but for small openings they work well.

For removing an entire wall I highly suggest a plasma cutter or cutting torch. While my walls
were removed with a cutting torch, I would have much preferred a plasma cutter. A plasma
cutter will make much cleaner cuts in the steel, which is nice if you want to re-purpose the
steel, and also not char the wood floors if that’s important to you. Since I have absolutely no
experience welding or cutting steel, I hired this out to a local welder. The cost was very
reasonable and only took two of them about 3 1/2 hours to do.
A reminder before you start removing metal, please read sections two and seven above about
consulting with an engineer and reinforcing your containers. Removing structural components
of a shipping container can quickly create a dangerous structure to be in and around.

Related posts:
Removing the Walls

10. Remove or encapsulate the flooring

Unfortunately, the wooden floors of nearly all shipping containers are treated with various
pesticides. Some “experts” act as if it’s nuclear waste and needs to be removed in every case,
and the uninformed simply ignore it completely and use it as is. I think it’s something that
needs to be decided on a case by case basis depending on the container’s initial chemical
treatment and usage history, but this is a decision that each person will need to make for
himself.

For my shipping containers I chose to encapsulate the floor with epoxy, and create an
additional physical barrier by building a subfloor on top of it. The floors were first solvent
washed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, to remove any surface oils and aid adhesion, and then
coated with Low V epoxy from Progressive Epoxy Polymers. The epoxy not only acts as a
physical barrier to the wooden floors themselves, but also as a barrier to to any vapors from
the treatment chemicals.

Related posts:
The Floor Dilemma

11. Seal the cracks

If you remove any of your interior walls, you create large gaps between the containers that
need to be sealed from the elements. One solution I have seen, that is probably the most
rugged, is to weld steel strips on the side gaps. If you removed the walls, the roof would
already have a beam welded across each gap for structural support. Not being a welder
myself, I chose an easier route using backer rod, spray foam, and caulk. Even if you chose to
weld steel strips to the outside you would still want to fill the gaps behind them with spray foam.

The first step is to get several different sizes of foam backer rod. I found that, in my case at
least, different gaps needed different sizes of backer rod. I tried to insert the backer rod to a
uniform depth that was about half way into the gaps. I then foamed the gaps from the inside
using Great Stuff insulating foam sealant. There was no need to use backer rod on the ceiling
as the welded on support beams provided the backing.
From the outside I decided to start with a layer of course steel wool to prevent any determined
mice from chewing through the foam insulation. On top of that was another layer of Great Stuff
foam followed by some backer rod to be a consistent base for the caulk. After a fair amount of
research I felt that OSI Quad caulk would be the best option for the final layer. It’s a synthetic-
rubber caulk that can stretch without breaking, be repaired (unlike silicone), and can be painted
– which I may do someday. I will also keep a close eye on this caulk and report back if I have
any failures.

Related posts:
Sealing the Gaps

12. Enclose the openings – frame, sheath, and weatherproof

This phase of construction is actually pretty easy, especially if you’ve had any rough framing
experience, as you’re just creating separate 8′x8′ framed walls to fit into the container
openings. A couple of things that are different from standard framing are how the walls are
connected to the containers, and that they are not load bearing.

My walls are attached to the containers using a combination of screws, bolts, and even some
J-B Weld. The bottom plate is attached to the plywood floor of the shipping container with 2
1/2″ treated deck screws. Treated screws are necessary here since the treatment chemicals in
the plywood would corrode and weaken ordinary screws over time. Each outside stud is
attached to the steel container wall using three 5/16″ bolts. The bolts that are exposed to the
outside are galvanized with bonded washers to prevent any water infiltration through the
drilled holes.

The top plate was a bit more complicated as I did not want to drill a hole in the top of the
container to run a supporting bolt through. Since it only needed a small amount of support, I
thought I would try some J-B Weld to hold it in place. I used a small galvanized steel bracket
screwed to the front of the top plate and glued to the container ceiling. This seemed to work
well and eliminated the small amount of movement that was present.
For sheathing I used 7/16 OSB applied vertically to the framing. The sheathing was then
covered with 30# roofing felt with double coverage on the bottom half. While I personally like
felt as a sheathing wrap, I’m sure most other types would be fine as well.

Related posts:
Exterior Walls

13. Add doors and windows

Just about anything goes here. You can choose to have a traditional door with windows as I
did, or sliding glass or french doors for the entire container opening. While I’m not a fan of
sliding glass doors, I would consider them if I were building in a warmer climate. They do let in
a lot of light, which is an advantage when you only have openings on a single side.

Related posts:
Exterior Walls

14. Frame the inside

If you are intent on saving as much interior space as possible, consider using 1 1/2″ steel
studs. They do a fair job of securing drywall, and are stiff enough IF spray foam is applied to
the walls and studs. In areas that the foam did not connect the wall and studs, such as my rear
wall, the steel studs are only adequate. An extra layer of drywall, or more narrow spacing of
the studs, would definitely help here.

If I were to do it over again, I would just use 2×4 or 2×3 wood studs. The amount of space that
I saved using steel studs was minimal, and the extra effort to build the walls with steel instead
of wood just wasn’t worth it.
Whichever method you choose, try to include a thermal break between the studs and the metal
walls of the container. This is especially important when using steel studs as they readily
conduct heat from the interior spaces. I used 1/2″ foam board between the upper container
box beam and the top plate of the stud wall.

Related posts:
Interior Framing

15. Install a subfloor

This is an optional step, especially if you replaced the floors in your containers. If you want to
provide an additional physical barrier to the treatment chemicals, or you need to get above
some structural remnants of the containers, then add a subfloor.

An interesting option I have seen in container houses is to pour a concrete floor inside the
containers on top of the plywood. It could even be the finish floor with some dyes and/or
patterning added. Personally, I would only consider this for a full time residence or for a
southern climate. I’m not sure I would want to try and warm up a concrete floor when arriving
at my cabin on a Friday night in the middle of winter.

My subfloor allowed me to get above the remnants of the removed walls in addition to
providing a bit more insulation. It consists of a layer of 1/2″ foam insulation covered by another
layer of 1/2″ OSB. The foam does not cover the wall remnants, which allows the OSB to
straddle that space and lay flat. The 1/4″ hardware cloth and insect screen across the gaps
are insurance against any mice that might try to chew their way through the spray foam
insulation underneath the containers, although I would consider that unlikely.
Related posts:
Installing the Subfloor

16. Electrical

Now is the time to wire your cabin for electricity. Even if you’re not sure you want it, it’s easy
and inexpensive enough that you should wire it now because it would be much harder to do
later on. The only difficulty in wiring my containers was getting the wire past some remnants of
the removed container walls. I tried drilling a hole through the steel, but was having a difficult
time even with cobalt bits. I finally chose to run the wire around the steel and make a custom
nail protector as seen below. This was easy, cheap, and won’t be seen when the trim boards
are in place.

Related posts:
Power System
Electrical Wiring

17. Insulate the containers

If you live in a cold climate, like I do, you will need to insulate your containers. Failing to do so
will allow condensation to easily form on the interior steel walls, resulting in a host of other
problems such as corrosion or mold. You can insulate the containers on the inside or the
outside, just as long as you do insulate it. Deciding which side to insulate really depends on
what you want your shipping container cabin to look like.

Insulating the outside of the containers is usually done when you want to have a more
traditional appearance to your cabin. Cedar, vinyl, and even log siding can be applied over the
insulated exterior of a shipping container. Having the insulation on the outside also allows you
to utilize the full space of the containers, as long as you like the look of corrugated steel walls
in your interior. I have also heard that insulating the outside of the containers is a better choice
for cold climates.

Insulating the inside of the containers allows you to have a rugged and low maintenance steel
exterior with a more traditional interior. My cabin is a hybrid of these two approaches as I
insulated the interior walls and the exterior ceiling of the shipping containers. My reasoning for
this is that I wanted a low maintenance steel exterior with as much headroom as possible in the
interior. Keep in mind that the only reason I was able to do this is because I built an additional
roof over all of the containers that would protect the exterior insulation. There was some
concern that the metal ceiling might allow condensation to form around the edges, but that has
not happened even in the coldest weather.

When it comes to what type of insulation to use, I believe the only one to consider is spray
foam. Even though it’s the most expensive route, I feel the benefits far outweigh the financial
disadvantages. A minimum 2″ layer of spray foam will create a seamless vapor barrier against
the metal walls of the container, add structural support to the walls and framing, and allow for
thinner side walls and greater interior volume. If I were insulating the inside of a container I
wouldn’t trust any other method to prevent condensation from forming behind the walls.

Related posts:
Foundation Plans
8 Replies

The foundation is one of the few things that I needed to get professional help in designing. I
wanted to make sure it was done correctly and safely, especially when the internal walls were
going to be completely removed. After looking high and low for an engineer that could help me
with shipping container construction, I found George Runkle at Runkle Consulting, Inc. He has
a lot of experience in this area, and has even developed his own computer programs to
analyze the structural integrity of shipping containers when they are modified. These programs
were specifically used on my cabin to spec out the steel box beams that would be welded to
the top of the cabin for support when the walls were cut out.

Proposed cabin foundation

The first foundation George designed was a series of piers to support all of the container
corner blocks. Each pier had a metal plate on top with welded rebar embedded into the
concrete pier. When the container was set into place on the foundation, the corner blocks
could be welded to the metal plates. This would definitely be the most cost effective
foundation, and would also be the easiest for the do-it-yourselfer to build. In fact, most of the
container cabins you see online use some sort of pier foundation. Unfortunately, I really don’t
like the look of pier foundations, and have actually had some trouble with them in the past.
Final cabin foundation

I then asked him for a foundation with 1′ thick walls in the front and back to support the
containers. To me at least, this was much more aesthetically pleasing, and gave the cabin a
more substantial and rugged appearance. I also have the option to easily enclose the
foundation with treated plywood on the sides if I ever wish to. This could give me a bit more
storage space protected from the weather if I ever need it.

The two center piers are to support the floors when the four inside walls are completely
removed. The piers are 6-8 inches below the height of the outside walls, and will be shimmed
with treated lumber to the correct height when the containers are in place. The top of the
containers will be reinforced with two 6″x3″x20′ steel box beams welded to the containers.

final cabin foundation in SketchUp

This entry was posted in Construction, Design on August 1

Excavation and Footings

4 Replies
Excavating one of the foundation walls

The excavation and footings were completed on September 21st 2009. As you can see in the
pics below it was a beautiful day – Fall in Northern Wisconsin is one of my favorite seasons.

Here is the back wall trench just getting started. The excavator is actually my next door (1/2
mile away) neighbor. I’ve got to say it’s nice to have a neighbor with earth moving equipment.

Backfilling the Sonotube forms just a bit for support.

The back wall trench with the footing forms. The trenches are about 6 feet deep and well below
the frost line for this area. The footings are 6 inches high with 8 foot walls on top. The walls will
stick out about 2 1/2 feet above the ground when it is all done.
A closeup of the Sonotube forms.
Getting ready for the footer forms for the front wall.
Pouring the front wall footer from a ready mix concrete truck.
Another view of the front wall footing being poured. My son taking a day off from school to
come and watch.
Yet another front wall footing shot.
The ready mix truck finished and cleaning up.
The leftover carnage from the day.
The Finished Foundation
7 Replies

Completed foundation
I wasn’t able to be there when they poured the concrete for the walls, so I only have pictures of
the finished product. I’m usually a little worried when I’m not there to supervise, but everything
worked out OK. I had come this day to lay down landscape fabric and stone around the
foundation. Unfortunately, this turned out to be a mistake.The soil had not settled all the way,
and several weeks later what once sloped away from the foundation sloped toward it. We had
to redo much of the work. Anyways, here’s a few pictures from that day.

Here’s a view to the southwest.

This is one of the steel plates embedded into the concrete wall. These is where the shipping
container corner blocks will be set and welded.
Landscape fabric and rock are being placed around the foundation. You can also see my
neighbors dump truck and skid steer – very convenient.
This is a view to the south, and will be the view out of the picture windows in the cabin – minus
the dirt pile of course.
This entry was posted in Construction on August 16, 2010.

The Containers Arrive

9 Replies

Container being lifted onto foundation

The containers arrived on December 7th 2009. It was a bit later than I wanted, but my
contractor said they wanted the ground to be frozen before they brought in their crane. I also
think they wanted to wait until after deer season was over. They felt the containers were light
enough for just nylon straps, although I would have been a bit more comfortable with chains
myself.

Just a quick comment on shipping. It was closing in on December, and I was getting a bit
worried whether or not I would actually get the containers delivered before the snow really
started to fall. The Chicago based shipping company that I was referred to by my container
dealer was afraid to deliver to my rural property with even a light covering of snow on the
ground. I could store the containers in Chicago over the winter for a dollar per day per
container – not a bad price, but I did want to start work on the cabin as soon as
possible. Fortunately, I ended up calling a local trucking company that had lots of experience
in the area. They said they actually preferred driving on the fields that time of year since the
ground was hard and relatively dry, and their trucks would not get stuck.

With a crane and a few people, the initial placement of the containers is pretty easy.

For final adjustments, large crowbars were used. It was amazing how easy it was for a single
person to precisely move these with just a crowbar. The smooth metal plates that the corner
blocks rested on probably helped a lot in this respect.
Come-alongs were used on the top and the bottom to tighten the containers together before
welding them in place.
More pictures:
Roof Plans
18 Replies

Cabin roof

I guess the first roof related decision for a shipping container builder is whether or not to even
have one. Considering that I have three connected containers, am in Wisconsin with ~50 psf
snow loads, and that the inner walls are removed, I felt a roof was a good idea. In designing
the roof I needed to consider the style, pitch, overhang, roofing material, and structure.

Style:

A flat roof is tempting with shipping container buildings, and that’s what you see a lot of, in
addition to no roof, in artists drawings of them. A flat roof in Wisconsin just doesn’t seem right
though, and would be somewhat out of place in the country. Shed roofs are attractive, at least
to me, easy to build, and would definitely fit in around here. Unfortunately, even with a
minimum 3:12 pitched roof, I would not be able to get the amount of shading I wanted with the
roof peak on the southern side. This left the gable roof, which is OK with me since it fits in well
around here – I was looking for a steel pole barn sort of appearance anyways. It’s also nice to
have room under a roof to run wires, install stacks, store stuff, whatever.

Pitch:

I would love to have a 12:12 roof pitch. There would be a LOT of space underneath, my solar
panels could be mounted flat to the roof, and any snow would just slide right off. Unfortunately,
I also need enough overhang to completely shade my south facing windows in the summer as I
don’t plan on having any air conditioning. A 12:12 pitch would not extend out far enough and
still have clearance for the doors – at least not in the style of roof I wanted. The best I was
able to accomplish was a 4:12 pitch which will be adequate.

Overhang:

SketchUp shadows

I’m going to bring up my favorite tool again – Google SketchUp. SketchUp has a great feature
that enables you to design the perfect overhang for your specific building and location. If you
set the coordinates and orientation of your building, you can see the shadows as they will
appear for any date and time. For the hottest months of the year, almost no direct sunlight will
enter the south facing windows of the cabin. Conversely, the coldest months will allow all of
the sunlight, and warmth, to come in. The overhang I needed to accomplish this was right
around 3 feet.

Roofing Material:

This wasn’t too hard of a decision, as a metal roof just seemed appropriate for a shipping
container cabin. A metal roof has so many advantages over shingles, especially in regards to
the ease of framing and installation. I did choose to go with galvanized panels mostly from an
appearance standpoint, although coated steel would probably be more durable.

Structure:
Roof framing

Since I was using metal panels, a combination of rafters and purlins would be an efficient
choice. Several friends tried to talk me into trusses instead of rafters, but I really don’t like the
look of them, access under the roof can be difficult, and the steel support beams that are in the
way would have required some expensive custom trusses that would not have saved me much
money.

The rafters themselves are dual 2×8′s four feet on center. Note that for the snow loads this
cabin could experience I needed to use Doug Fir lumber which just barely meets the
limits. Any more snow load, or a lesser grade of lumber, would have required dual 2×10′s. If I
had chosen dual 2×10′s I could probably have increased the spacing to eight feet, although
that would have required the purlins to be oriented vertically either on or between the
rafters. As it is, the purlins are 2×4′s laid flat every 2 feet. I could also have used single 2×8
rafters every 2 feet, but I like the more substantial appearance of the dual 2×8 beams.

Rafter attachment

I probably/hopefully over-designed the roof just a bit, but with a cabin this small the extra cost
will be minimal. Each set of rafters is connected at the top by two 5/8″ plywood gussets, and
connected to the top plate with four steel angle plates that have eight 1/4″ SPAX lag screws
each. Two of the middle rafters have 2×4 rafter ties on each side to help prevent any possible
rafter spread. The top plates at the eaves are dual 2×8′s attached to the containers with
welded angle plates, while the top plates at the gable ends are dual 2×4′s.
Two additional roof details are the chimney opening and protection from animals. I,m planning
for the chimney to be at the peak of the roof, and I hope this will minimize the amount of
flashing that is necessary – we shall see. To protect the “attic” of the cabin from nesting birds,
red squirrels, and insects, there will be blocking between the purlins on the gable ends in
addition to insect screen on the gables and eaves. There are also foam closures between the
end purlins and the metal panels, and ridge vent material at the peak under the ridge
cap. Aside from protecting the attic space, this should also provide for adequate ventilation in
the summer months.

Opening for chimney

Sealing of roof

Raising the Roof

4 Replies
Metal roof on containers

The roof was finished on December 21, 2009 – talk about cutting it close. Aside from a little
snow, the weather was very nice for that time of year. I actually prefer working in the cold
weather for this type of thing – definitely better than doing it in August. It took three to four
people two full days to both frame and panel the roof.

The metal roofing I ended up using wasWheeling Corrugating Paneldrain 29 gauge galvanized
panels. They had several different styles to choose from, but the Paneldrain had a more
angular design that matched the walls of the container very well. The panels went up very fast,
especially since they are cut to the exact length of the roof. The only cuts that needed to be
made to the roof itself were two lengthwise ones on the trailing gable end.

Installing the the first panel.

Closeup of the rafter and top plate connection. You can also see one of the 6″x3″ steel box
beams that was welded the length of the containers as support for when the walls are
removed.
Gable end showing the blocking between purlins to seal off the roof. You can also see one of
my bigger mistakes here. I forgot to account for the height of the locking bars above the doors
and they don’t clear the rafters. I plan to router out a place for them in each rafter where they
will be held in place with a latch of some sort. It will hopefully look like a planned custom
feature when I’m done.
One half of the roof done. You can see the ridge vent material applied to the top of the panels.
Steel roofing was applied to the gable ends. This may get changed out someday depending
on how the cabin is eventually finished, but it was an easy thing to do for now.
Closed up tight for the winter.
More pictures:
Removing the Walls
11 Replies

Removing the walls

This was kind of a disappointment for me. I had arranged to have the internal walls removed
with a plasma cutter, but there was a problem. The welder I hired could not find a large
enough generator that could produce clean power for his plasma cutter, so he just showed up
with cutting torches instead. I really wanted to have the clean cuts a plasma cutter makes for
both the cabin interior and the resulting leftover steel panels. I’m not going to complain too
much since his fee was very reasonable, and I really did not want to do this myself. In the end
it probably doesn’t matter since everything that was cut will be covered up in some way.

The open interior.

Another interior shot.
A view of my recently plowed field to the south.
The Floor Dilemma
89 Replies

I fully intended to replace the original floors in my shipping containers with new plywood,
although I was not looking forward to the work involved. I had read of the chemicals used to
treat the plywood floors and the potential health risks to humans, so I really didn’t think I had a
choice. Everything that I had read though focused on Basileum SI-84 as the chemical of
choice for plywood in shipping containers. When my containers arrived, I was surprised to find
that they were treated with Radaleum FHP-60 instead of Basileum – not that I knew what
Radaleum FHP-60 even was.
Container data plate

To find out what the plywood flooring has been treated with, you need to look at the container
data plate. This should be attached to a door of the container, although they could be missing
from containers that have been removed from service. The plate will have a section called
“timber component treatment” with three parts separated by forward slashes. The first part
“IM” stands for immunity, the second is the treatment chemical, and the third is the date of
treatment.

The active ingredient in Basileum SI-84 isPhoxim, an organophosphate compound. Phoxim

seems to be commonly used against ants and termites, and can be found under the brand
name of Baythion produced by the Bayer Corporation. The active ingredient in Radaleum
FHP-60 is theta-Cypermethrin, a 2nd generation synthetic pyrethroid. According to
Wikipedia, Cypermethrin is found in many household ant and cockroach killers, including Raid
and ant chalk.

Both Phoxim and Cypermethrin are considered moderately hazardous (Class II) by the World
Health Organization. What differentiates these two chemicals for my purposes is their vapor
pressures. Phoxim has a vapor pressure of 2.63 mm Hg at 20° C, while Cypermethrin has a
virtually nonexistent vapor pressure of only 0.0013 mm Hg at 20° C – more than 2,000 times
lower. Why is the vapor pressure important? It’s easy to encapsulate the contaminated floors
of a shipping container to eliminate physical contact, but it’s very difficult to block their vapors,
if present, and their subsequent inhalation.

With the walls removed between my containers, I think it’s necessary to install some kind of
subfloor on top of the existing container floor. While this would provide an excellent physical
barrier from the treated plywood, I wanted an additional chemical resistant barrier between me
and the Cypermethrin just to be safe. I just don’t trust that Cypermethrin is the only hazardous
ingredient present in the plywood – it is made in China after all.

After a lot of research, I decided to seal the plywood with epoxy. In theory, the epoxy should
be both a physical and vapor barrier to the chemicals. The epoxy I chose to use was Low
V fromProgressive Epoxy Polymers. Progressive is not a big company, but they have a good
reputation among the boat building community. They offer a wide range of high quality epoxies
for a very reasonable price. Low V is a solvent free, 100% solids epoxy that they recommend
for penetrating and sealing wood surfaces. The only reservation they had with me using this,
or any other epoxy, is that it might not bond to the wood due to the pesticides or any oil
staining. BTW, there is an absolute wealth of information about epoxies on their website – IF
you can navigate through the poor design of their site.

Before applying the epoxy, I chose to solvent wash the floors with 91% isopropyl alcohol. I did
this to remove any surface chemicals or oils that would prevent the epoxy from penetrating and
adhering to the wood. I used about one gallon of isopropyl per container to wash the
floors. Be sure to have plenty of ventilation if you attempt this, as the alcohol vapors can be
strong. You will also need to choose your mop carefully, as two different mops that I tried
came apart in the isopropyl in short order.

Dried epoxy on plywood floor

I applied two separate coats of epoxy to the plywood using a paint roller on an extension
pole. The first/primer coat was thinned with 25% Xylene to aid in penetrating the plywood
floor. The second coat was applied full strength a week later. It takes several hours to dry to
the touch depending on the temperature, and after the second coat it dries to a very hard,
almost wet looking smooth finish. I doubt anything of significance is going to get

Sealing the Gaps

13 Replies
Finished gaps between containers

This is a task that has spanned more than a year and a half. It’s not that it had to, it’s just that
there always seemed to be something more pressing to do. I did finish the interior portion of
this in April of 2010 right after I had the interior container walls removed. That worked OK for
the first winter, but I really needed to finish it before this winter to avoid any cold spots on the
few metal wall remnants that are just behind the drywall. There was a small amount of
condensation on them last winter, and I’m sure it was due to the cold air reaching deep into the
gaps.

The most common method I have seen to seal the gaps between containers has been to weld
steel plate on the outside. Not being a welder, I wanted to figure out something that I could do
myself. I also had new containers in a decent color that I wanted to keep as original and
attractive as possible. My plan was to use a combination of backer rod, spray foam, and caulk
to seal everything up. The picture above shows the finished product on the back side of the
cabin, and I must admit it looks better than any welding job I could have done.

The first thing I did when the walls were removed was to install some foam backer rod between
the containers. I recommend getting a variety of sizes since the gaps can vary. I tried to place
the rod at a consistent depth using a marked plastic drywall knife. This was in place by itself
for a couple of months in the spring, and it did at least keep the bugs out of the containers.
The next step was to seal the inside gaps with some Great Stuff foam in a can. As you can
see in the picture below I didn’t have to be too careful since it was going to be covered with
more spray foam in addition to the drywall. You can see the metal wall remnants here that
come right up to the back of the drywall.

A few weeks ago I was able to finish the outside gaps. After some research on foam insulation
and mice, I felt it would be prudent to include some sort of barrier in the gaps just in case. I
decided on a layer of coarse steel wool over the original backer rod I had installed from the
inside. I don’t think mice would have made their way through the foam, but it was only a few
dollars for the steel wool and 30 minutes more time. Better to err on the side of caution when it
comes to mice.

After the steel wool was in, I added another layer of Great Stuff foam. This was the hardest
part of the project since I had to keep the foam at a consistent depth for the final layer of
backer rod and caulk – I had to continually scrape away the foam as it expanded and dried.
I then placed another layer of backer rod on top of the foam as a base for the caulk. The rod
was probably unnecessary, but I thought it might help me create a more consistent base.

The final finish was a layer of OSI Quad caulk. While this is great caulk, I found it a bit harder
to get a smooth finish than others. It’s also a pain to get off your skin. Here’s a closeup of the
finished gap on the backside of the cabin. I could have gotten a better color match with the
caulk, as Quad is available in hundreds of colors, but I would have had to special order an
entire case. Since I only needed four tubes, I used a stock beige color which actually looks
OK.
Exterior Walls
4 Replies

I finished the exterior walls a few weeks ago, and everything went together fairly well. I
decided to use standard 2×4 wood studs for the exterior walls since I’m comfortable framing in
windows and doors with them. For the interior framing I am using 1 5/8″ steel studs mainly for
the space saving aspect, although I will be discussing that separately in an upcoming post.

The first step was to take the frame wall and fit it into place. I held off on the internal 2×4′s so I
could more easily drill through the outer studs and container walls for the attaching bolts. I also
made sure there was at least a couple of inches between the framing and the closed doors to
account for the sheathing, and window and door protrusions.
The upper corners of each wall needed a notch cut out to accommodate the side box beams.

The lower corners fit fine as is.

Each side is held in place with three 5/16″ bolts. The holes for the bolts were drilled with a
5/16″ Cobalt drill bit. The bolts that pass through the exterior walls of the cabin are galvanized
with bonded washers to prevent any moisture infiltration, while the interior bolts are just
standard zinc coated ones.

You might have noticed that the framing looks somewhat incomplete compared to conventional
construction. Keep in mind that these are non-load bearing walls and as such it’s not
necessary to include double top plates, headers, or even jack studs under the windows. It’s
also not that adding these would have been a great burden, but I would rather have insulation
than framing members on an exterior wall. Here’s an article on Advanced Framing
Techniques that gives an overview of reduced framing for non-load bearing walls.
Here’s one side that shows the three galvanized bolts that pass through the container. These
bolts, along with the three on the other side, should be the only penetrations of the container
sides.
Here’s a closeup of a bolt with a bonded washer.

This is a completed framed wall for one of the two large windows.
This is one of the framed walls covered with 7/16″ OSB before the window opening is cut
out. BTW, don’t try to apply the sheathing horizontally as it cannot get past the doors – vertical
is the only way it will work. Fortunately I was able to salvage my first panel when I tried to do
just that.
The sheathing is covered with 30 pound roofing felt with double coverage on the bottom, and
the Anderson 200 window is sealed around the perimeter with a butyl flashing tape. I’m not
sure how necessary the tape is on this cabin since the container doors will be closed and
protecting the windows most of the time. It also has a 3 foot roof overhang which should keep
most of the rain away even if the doors are open. I guess overkill never hurts in construction.
Here’s the view out of the two window openings. When I get a chance to router out the rafters
for the locking bars, the doors should swing out wider and not be visibly in the way as much.
Here’s a view of the entire southern wall. It’s actually much brighter inside than the camera
shows.
The cabin is almost fully enclosed. I still have to wait for a few extra guys to help me with the
large windows as they are very heavy. My son and I were able to spend the night in it over
labor day with the doors closed on the unfinished walls. It dipped down to the upper 30′s that
night, and I have to tell you it was very cold in those containers without insulation.
This entry was posted in Construction on September 15, 2010.

Interior Framing
24 Replies

The interior framing is mostly done, except for

a couple of the partition walls. As mentioned previously, I chose to use 1 5/8″UltraSTEEL steel
studs from Dietrich Metal Framing for the space saving aspect over traditional wood studs. In
retrospect, I’m not so sure I would do it again. I only saved about 2″ on two sides of the cabin,
which worked out to be just six square feet of floor space.While building the steel walls is not
that difficult, it is time consuming when you have to clamp and screw each stud in four
places. Building a traditional wood framed wall is so much easier, especially when you have a
power framing nailer.

Before I set the stud walls in place, I affixed

1/2″ foam sheathing on the upper box beam to create a thermal break between the steel studs
and the shipping container. Since steel conducts heat so well, a direct connection between the
studs and the container would cause heat loss through the walls. The cold studs could also
cause formation of condensation on the finished drywall. This additional step would probably
not have been necessary with wood studs, and is yet another reason to just stick with wood
studs.

The upper track is secured into the box beam

with #10 thread cutting screws from Fastenal. I pre-drilled the screw holes using a 5/32″ drill
bit – the steel is fairly hard so plan to use a cobalt bit if you do this. I also left a 1/2″ space
above the upper track to add some spray foam insulation between the studs and container. If
you’re wondering what the group of nine holes are in the picture, they are part of two ventilation
ports that were in each container. There are only two left since combining the containers, and I
do plan to keep them functional for added ventilation. They are already screened and
protected from the weather on the outside, and I plan on attaching PVC pipe to them on the
inside to pass through the drywall.
 The bottom track is just simply attached to the
wooden floors using 1 1/4″ coated decking screws. Coated screws should be used to resist
any treatment chemicals that might be present in the plywood floors.

This entry was posted in Construction on September 27, 2010.

Installing the Subfloor

10 Replies

Several people have already asked me why I

bothered installing a new subfloor over the existing plywood. The primary reason has to do
with the removed side walls. When the sidewalls are removed, in my case with a cutting torch,
there are remnants of the side wall that stand up about 1/4″ from the bottom rail of the
container. Even if you could eliminate this remnant, the bottom rail itself is about 1/8″ higher
than the surrounding plywood – at least on my containers. There is also the issue of sealing
up the gap that exists between the containers.

I couldn’t find any ideas on the web, that I liked at least, on how to deal with this issue. My
thoughts ranged from grinding down the metal to routering out a channel in the subfloor –
neither of which would be an easy task. I started asking around to my more handy friends and
acquaintances, and a builder who was working on my home at the time had the best and
simplest idea of all. He told me to use two layers of subfloor with the lower layer away from the
bottom rail and wall remnants, and the upper layer spanning that area. I took it one step
further by using 1/2″ foam sheathing for the bottom layer to get some additional insulation and
possibly sound isolation as well. I found out later that this is similar to methods used to add a
subfloor and insulation to basements in cold climates.

Before I installed the subfloor, I covered the gaps with insect screen, 1/4″ hardware cloth, in
addition to four metal plates at the ends. The insect screen probably isn’t necessary, and was
really just a remnant from some temporary bug proofing while I was working on the cabin. The
1/4″ hardware cloth is required, at least where I live, to keep any mice or rats from chewing
their way into the cabin. There will also be 3″ of foam insulation sprayed directly underneath
the gaps between each pair of bottom rails. The rest of the container bottoms will only have 1″
of spray foam, although that’s the subject for a later post.

Here’s the 1/2″ foam sheathing on either side of the bottom rails. I did make the gap a bit
wider in later rows to reduce a slight rise in the subfloor that occurred over the gap. The
screen and hardware cloth probably added enough height in that area to cause the OSB to
slope up over the gap. Additional screws in this area can also reduce the tendency of the OSB
to rise.
The foam sheathing was then covered with 1/2″ OSB and screwed into the container floors
with 2″ coated deck screws. The coated screws are necessary since the plywood floors of the
shipping container are treated. The OSB is staggered each row so that any spanning panel
overlaps the center of the gap by two feet. 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood or OSB would
probably be better, although the 1/2″ seems to be more than adequate when walking around
on it. Something that I forgot to use that couldn’t hurt would be panel edge clips (H-clips)
between the panels of different rows over the gap.
This entry was posted in Construction on September 27, 2010.

Power System
13 Replies
Power System

I just finished installing most of the electrical outlets and switches this past weekend, and
thought it would be a good time to discuss the power system. It’s an off-grid system, mostly
out of necessity, as I’m about 2/3 of a mile away from the nearest power line. As convenient
as it would be to have grid power, for me at least it’s not worth the considerable cost of running
a line that distance.

The main source of power for the system will be several solar panels, which will be installed
this summer, in addition to a generator for backup and power tools. Running just from the
battery, the system can output a continuous 300 watts of 115 VAC. While that’s not a lot of
power, it’s more than adequate for my needs. I figure I’ll be running maybe three to four 9 watt
CFL lights at any one time, and maybe recharging a laptop or cellphone now and then. Some
planned future loads, such as the water pump and Coleman Stirling power cooler, will run
directly off 12VDC to avoid the inverter losses. If I need more power, or have to top off the
battery bank, I’ll use my portable Honda eu2000i generator I usually bring along.

Aside from designing the cabin itself, I probably spent more time designing the power system
than anything else. Having little to no electrical experience, designing a properly sized solar
system was difficult. I’m not sure I would have been able to do it correctly without the Solar
Electric Power Discussion Forum and Northern Arizona Wind & Sun who hosts it. The
members of the forum, and the people at NAWS, were extremely helpful to a solar newbie like
me. NAWS also carries most everything needed for an off-grid solar setup like mine, and
offers excellent technical support to boot.

The specific components I used are as follows:

Uni-Solar US64 solar panels. These are 64 watt flexible thin-film photovoltaics mounted on a
steel backing plate. There’s no glass on these and it’s beneficial in that if a single cell is
damaged, say from hail or vandalism, the rest of the cells in the panel will continue to
function. Unfortunately these are now discontinued and are still relatively expensive, on a
dollar per watt basis, if you can find them. I only have two of these, which is probably not
enough, so I will have to find some old stock somewhere or buy another brand.

Morningstar SS-10-L solar charge controllers with low voltage disconnect. While these are
very good units, I would not necessarily have chosen them except for the fact that I got a great
deal on two new units in an eBay auction. I do recommend the low voltage disconnect feature
though if you plan to have any 12VDC loads hooked up to them.

Morningstar SureSine 300 watt sine wave inverter. This is the best small sine wave inverter
you can get in my opinion. It has the lowest stand-by power usage, at 55mA, of any inverter
I’m aware of. A similar 300 watt unit from Samlex, at half the cost, uses 700mA – that’s a lot of
wasted power for standby mode. Don’t be tempted by the cheap modified sine wave inverters
as they can damage certain electronic devices.

Concorde SunXtender 104 Amp-Hour AGM (absorbed glass mat) deep cycle battery. Since I
really can’t do justice to a battery discussion here, I strongly recommend reading the
excellentBattery FAQ at NAWS. What I will discuss though is the use of AGM batteries. The
main advantage to AGM batteries, for my purposes at least, is that they are resistant to
freezing. Since my cabin is in northern Wisconsin, and unheated most of the winter, I wanted
the peace of mind that my batteries would not freeze. Another benefit is that they do not
release hydrogen in the amounts that flooded batteries do and can be kept indoors without a
vented battery box in small numbers.

Iota DLS-30M battery charger. While a battery charger is not a necessity, it is useful if you
have a generator tied into your system. If you’re going to be running your generator anyways,
you might as well be charging your batteries at the same time. It’s also useful in winter for
those short or sunless days. Make sure to choose the proper amperage charger based on the
size and type of your battery bank. The IQ4 Smart Charger, either integrated or as an add-on,
is also nice to have for a more complete charging process.

Iota ITS-30R transfer switch. This device automatically switches power between the inverter
and the generator, and is only necessary if you have a generator hooked up to your
system. You’ll notice that I included a couple of switches between the generator and the power
system. The right switch allows me to control when the transfer switch receives or loses power
from the generator. This is most useful when turning off the generator to prevent questionable
power from being fed into the system before it switches to the inverter. The left switch allows
me to disable the battery charger in case the generator needs to run and the battery doesn’t
need to be charged.

All of my 12VDC fuses, breakers, and switches are made by Blue Sea Systems for the marine
industry. Unfortunately, the online company I purchased these from does not carry Blue Sea
anymore, but I will provide the links to the products I used on the Blue Sea site.

m-Series Battery Switch

ST Glass Fuse Block with Negative Bus
PowerBar Common BusBar
187 Series Thermal Circuit Breaker
MAXI Fuse Block
Terminal Fuse Block
DC Analog Voltmeter
Electrical Wiring
8 Replies

Electrical wiring

I realize this post is out of sequence, but I hadn’t planned on talking about the electrical
wiring. It seemed so routine to me that I thought no one would be interested, but I did have a
reader ask about it the other day so here it is.

It was a fairly simple wiring project with about 250 feet of 14-2 Romex wire, 22 electrical boxes,
16 outlets, 5 switches, and other miscellaneous items. Some might question the exclusive use
of 14 gauge wire, especially with outlets, but this is just a cabin with a small solar power
system and a 300 watt inverter. 14 gauge is much easier to work with, and the wires are
protected with a 15 amp breaker for the few times I might be running my Honda
eu2000i generator. I had thought about using conduit in case I ever wanted to change or
upgrade the wiring, but I just couldn’t justify the extra time and expense for a cabin. If this were
my home with spray foam insulation in the walls, I would definitely want to have the electrical
wiring in conduit.

The interior electrical boxes needed to be thin enough to fit in the 1 5/8″ steel stud walls, and
also not conduct electricity through the steel framing and container walls in case of any wiring
mishaps. The best one I found was the Carlon A52151D 2 gang box. The only problem with
these boxes is that they are not designed for steel studs. To attach them to the steel studs, I
had to use wooden backers in the studs to screw the boxes into. At first I used some 2×2′s,
but I had to bend the back side flanges of the steel stud to make them fit. After wasting my
time with a few of those, I switched to 1×2′s which press fit perfectly into the steel stud
channels.

You can see in the pictures below that I used nail plates on some of the steel and wood
studs. The ones available at my local stores didn’t work too well on the steel studs, so I looked
online and found the ERICO CADDY Press-On Protection Plate, which worked great for both
wood and steel. I didn’t need to use these on the exterior wall steel studs since I just cable tied
the Romex to the backside of the studs. The last picture in the gallery shows a custom nailing
plate I made to protect the Romex that went around some remnants of the interior steel
walls. I originally tried to drill through those steel sections to run the wire through, but it was
too thick for my drill even with Cobalt bits. The custom plates work just fine and will eventually
be hidden by the trim.

All of this electrical in the cabin will be a real luxury for me. For the first 15 years or so my old
hunting shack had no electricity, and I relied on kerosene lanterns and flashlights for all of my
lighting needs. I’ll still keep the lanterns around for those nights when I don’t have enough
solar power saved up, and also for a little nostalgia now and then too. Another benefit of
kerosene lanterns is that they’re nice to bring to the outhouse at night. They not only light your
way there, but they provide some welcome heat during the winter months.

Electrical wiring
nsulation Troubles
95 Replies

This has been the biggest hassle of the entire

project. The contractor I hired to insulate with spray foam started the job on September 25th,
and just got around to finishing it on October 22nd – 4 weeks later! There are still some issues
with the work he did, but I am done with him now.

It all started on 9/25 when he showed up to do the spraying and the generator he rented was
not big enough to do the job. He got about 15′ of wall space done before the generator started
having problems. He then told me he would get a different generator that week and have it
done by Friday. So, I show up at my cabin the next Weekend and nothing was done. I tried
calling him on his cell and he would not return my calls, and did not return my many calls until
later the next week when he said it was done.

On October 9th I went to the cabin to start hanging the drywall assuming the insulation was
done. At first glance it looked as if everything was OK. I then started looking at it a little closer
and thought the foam was a little thin. I got a nail and started probing the foam depth and
found the newly sprayed foam was consistently less than an inch thick, and even as low as 3/8
of an inch in many places. BTW, the signed contract for the job specified 2″ of foam on the
interior wall. After tracking him down I brought him out there to see what was done. He
admitted that it was done incorrectly and told me it was one of his employees who had sprayed
it. He said he would personally fix it and make it right that week. Needless to say, it took him
another two weeks to finish the job and there were still some things he did not spray correctly.

OK, I’m done complaining about the insulation and will actually start talking about it. I had
chosen to use a closed cell spray foam insulation to prevent any condensation from forming
behind my walls. Since the steel walls of the container are a perfect vapor barrier, any water
vapor that can get behind insulation in the cold months will readily condense on the steel
walls. Two inches of sprayed closed cell foam insulation is not only a good insulator (R13), but
it is also a seamless vapor barrier and will not allow any water vapor to travel behind it to the
steel walls. I had them spray 2″ on the interior walls, 1″ under the containers, and 2″ on the
outside top of the containers. While this is not a lot of insulation, keep in mind that this is
mostly a three season cabin with a capable wood stove (Jotul 602) and very cheap wood.

I recognize that insulating the outside top of the containers is probably somewhat of a
gamble. The conventional, and safe, choice would be to insulate the interior ceiling, although
being 6’2″ tall I really did not want to lose any interior height. I also kind of like the look of the
corrugated steel roof inside. The potential problem here would be the loss of heat at the edges
of the ceiling causing condensation to form inside. If I do get some condensation, I plan on
using ananti-condensation coating from Mascoat Industrial. This stuff is very different from the
insulating paint scams that abound, and has been used successfully by boating enthusiasts to
eliminate condensation in their boat hulls.

I will try and post a follow up sometime this spring to let everyone know how the external
ceiling insulation worked.
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