Teaching American

Woodturning Association of
Woodturners
Basics

Phil Brennion
Kip Christensen
Bonnie Klein
Alan Lacer
Michael Mocho
 Teaching Woodturning Basics

Table of Contents American

Association of
Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Woodturners
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Teaching Motivations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Teaching Skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Keep it simple
2009
Visual Aids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Large drawing board
Large tool models and project examples
Labels
Using notes
Handouts
The authors and
publisher of this curriculum
The Learning Environment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 guide accept no legal
Class size liability for any
consequences arising from
One-on-one the use of this curriculum
2 or 3 students guide. Woodworking
presents numerous safety
4 to 6 students concerns. Some of these
7 to 10 students are: objects being thrown
Working with various personalities from a machine, cuts from
tools or materials, items
A good assistant need not be an expert that fall or pinch, etc. Take
One-on-one instruction all appropriate precautions
Medical considerations when preparing, turning, or
finishing wood. Always
Time management strategies observe all of the safety
The importance of breaks guidelines published in
the AAW Resource
Directory. Understand each
Set Up: Workshop Environment and Protocol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 project thoroughly before
Lathe arrangements you begin and ask for
advice from professional or
Lathe speeds experienced woodturners
Spindle height before doing a procedure
Floor mats that makes you
uncomfortable, or one you
Lighting never did before or that
Extension cords you are not completely
comfortable performing.
Eye protection
No portion of this
Tool Sharpening. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 publication may be
reproduced or transmitted
in any format without
Wood Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 specific, written permission
from the publisher.

Copyright © 2009
 Suggested Workshop Agenda (2-3 hours) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

1. Welcome students, brief introductions,

overview and purposes of the workshop. . . . . . . . . . . 11

2. Safety and introduction to the lathe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Safety

3. First demonstration — Mounting stock between

centers; using the spindle roughing gouge;
roughing out; feedback and questions. . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Drive center
Ball bearing tail center
Before turning on the lathe
Free rotation
On and off
Demonstrations Spindle roughing gouge (3/4" - 1")
Proper tool grip
And Stance
Work Sessions Roughing out

4. First work session — Guided practice;

roughing stock with spindle roughing gouge. . . . . . . 15

5. Second demonstration — Laying out the

exercises using a parting tool
Feedback and questions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Parting tool (1/8")

6. Second work session — Layout using

the parting tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

7. Third demonstration: Cutting beads with

a 3/8" spindle gouge / feedback and questions. . . . . .16
Spindle gouge (3/8")
First cuts: ABC’s
Anchor
Bevel cut
Direction of cut
Bevel contact
Stance

8. Third work session: Guided practice;

laying out beads using a parting tool;
cutting beads with a 3/8" spindle gouge . . . . . . . . . . . 17

9. Fourth demonstration: Cutting coves

with a 3/8" spindle gouge
Feedback and questions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
 10. Fourth work session: Guided practice;
cutting coves with a 3/8" spindle gouge . . . . . . . . . .18

11. Break . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

12. Fifth demonstration: First project (see handouts);

feedback and questions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

13. Fifth work session: Guided practice

making the first project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

14. Sixth demonstration: Second project (if time allows)

(see handouts); feedback and questions . . . . . . . . . 18

15. Sixth work session: Guided practice making

the second project (if time allows). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
16. Feedback and suggestions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

17. Clean up, goodbyes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Teaching Young Turners . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Safety
Project selection
Simple enhancements
Teaching techniques
Sharpening and drilling
Equipment and accessories

Handouts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
The Wood Lathe
Safety
How to Determine Safe Lathe Speeds
Tools and Accessories
Exercise Procedure: Bead and Cove Stick
Project Procedure: Ball and Cup Game
Project Procedure: Stick Pen Handouts
Project Procedure: Wooden Egg
Project Procedure: Honey Dipper
Project Procedure: Ice Cream Scoop
Project Procedure: Combination Screwdriver
Project Procedure: Finger Spinning Top
Teaching Woodturning Basics

Preface American
Association of

T
his instructional guide was written for AAW members who Woodturners
have intermediate or advanced experience in turning and
who are interested in sharing their enthusiasm for
turning, but who may not be particularly
experienced in teaching. In preparing these
materials it was at least as difficult to
determine what not to include as is was to
decide what material should be included. Our
intent was to provide a teaching guide that is
concise, practical, and project based.

There was consensus among the group that

the best introduction to woodturning in
general is through learning spindle
techniques. Learning cutting theory used in
turning spindle projects is broadly transferable
to other types of projects. As a result, we intentionally limited
ourselves to addressing spindle turning only. We have defined
spindle turning as having the grain direction run parallel to the
bed of the lathe. Furthermore, we have covered the use of
only three tools - the 3/4" spindle roughing gouge, 3/8"
spindle gouge, and 1/8" parting tool. For the sake of safety,
we caution you regarding teaching outside of the scope of this
guide.

There are significant responsibilities associated with teaching

any manual skill involving power equipment and sharp tools.
We strongly suggest you consider the implications that your
instruction will have in setting good examples for safe,
effective, and proper turning technique.

Although turning is great fun, THE LATHE IS NOT A TOY, and

serious injury can result from improper methods. Safety should
be of prime importance at every phase of instruction.

This guide includes a suggested schedule for a workshop 2-3

hours long. Participants should get an introduction to turning
that teaches safe practices and attitudes, includes straight
forward instruction on simple processes and projects, and
provides hands-on experience that gives quick and satisfying
results. Project sheets for a variety of simple spindle projects
are included. In addition, there is a section dedicated
specifically to teaching young turners.

1
 This guide is not intended to be an instructional manual for
woodturning, but rather a resource for experienced turners to
strategize their teaching efforts. We recommend that you
realistically consider your own turning abilities and awareness
prior to directing students.

Our hope is that this material will help you prepare to teach an
introductory woodturning workshop that will be a lot of fun and
This guide is . . . get people hooked on turning.
a resource for
experienced
AAW Curriculum Committee:
turners to
strategize their Kip Christensen, Chair
teaching efforts Phil Brennion
Bonnie Klein
Alan Lacer
Michael Mocho

Special thanks to those who

reviewed preliminary manuscripts:

Rex Burningham
Alan Leland
Richard Raffan
Robert Rosand
Cassandra Speier
Mark St. Leger

2
Introduction

W
oodturning is, by nature of the process, full of
discoveries, challenges, great joys and sometimes
wrenching frustrations, yet clearly one of the most
compelling of all crafts.

Although it can be intriguing and even mesmerizing

to watch, many people who attempt to learn the
craft of turning without the benefit of a teacher
quickly become frustrated, as the demanding nature
of the subtractive process combined with the seem-
ingly mysterious principals governing the behavior
of cutting tools takes time to comprehend. Even with
the help of modern instructional materials, many
self-taught turners remain unaware of the potential
for certain techniques and equipment, or the relative
ease with which the right tool used proficiently can
quickly produce the desired form with a crisp-cut
surface requiring little if any additional refinement.
“. . . the
Fortunately, the generosity and willingness to share hard-won demanding
technical insight are still the hallmarks of the contemporary nature of the
woodturning community, and remain one of its finest qualities. subtractive
process
Chances are if you are combined with
Teaching Motivations reading this guide, you are the seemingly
at least a little curious about the possibility of sharing your mysterious
enthusiasm for woodturning. Hopefully, this is due to your own principals
interest and involvement in the craft. We are living in an era
governing the
where the popularity of wood-turning and its creative possibili-
ties has never been greater, and this enthusiasm shows no behavior of
sign of waning. There are thousands of people interested in cutting tools
learning how to turn, and they can benefit from your help. takes time to
comprehend.”
Maybe you have been considering teaching for some time, or
have been asked to help a less experienced turner understand
why a particular tool seems to be misbehaving, or perhaps you
have a special technique that merits sharing . . . whatever
your motivation, this guide is intended to help in the
development of essential teaching skills.

Possessing turning ability does not automatically make one an

effective instructor. Just as in the practice of turning, raw
enthusiasm itself isn’t the only requirement for success; it
requires strategy and technique. The craft of teaching is a skill
that can be learned, and this book is intended to be a resource
for the process.
3
 Teaching Skills
As a turner, you can come to understand and appreciate what it
takes to create an object:
“Teaching • Inspiration & imagination
• Technical ability
others how to
• A working knowledge of materials
turn can be
• Empirical knowledge of the forces involved in the turning
very different process
than turning • The ability to visualize and develop the desired form within
for your own the wood through subtractive means, willingness to take
purposes, and risks, make subtle adjustments to details, and knowing
when to stop
requires a
different, Teaching others how to turn can be very different than turning
though for your own purposes, and requires a different, though
somewhat somewhat similar set of skills:
similar, set of • The ability to organize and present information in a logical
and incremental sequence
skills .”
• The perception and awareness to identify the contributing
factors involved in effective turning:
• The verbal skills to clearly
describe the process;
• The ability to anticipate, identify,
and respond to student
needs;
• The willingness to be observed,
questioned, and available for
clarification.

Essentially, becoming an instructor

requires more perception, and a
willingness to share than innate
talent or turning proficiency.

Keep it Simple
Present information that is relevant only to what you are
teaching at the time and add complexity in small increments.
Don’t bog down core concepts with superfluous technical details
such as differences in brand-name tools, sharpening variations,
lengthy stories from your turning experiences, too many
alternate methods, etc.

4
Visual Aids
Large Drawing Board
A chalkboard, white board, or large drawing pad set on
an easel can be great for clarifying some concepts. You
may even want to have some drawings prepared before
the session to save time. Don't worry about your ability
to draw. Make simple drawings that are large and easy
to read. Using two or three colors can quickly clarify
details on drawings.

Large tool models and project examples

Oversized tool models, or just a form representing the shape of
the first few inches of the cutting edge can be a great way to “Oversized tool
show concepts. It may also be useful to have partially and/or models . . . can
completed examples of projects prepared before the demo to be a great
illustrate the steps. Cutaways that show the actual cross-
section or longitudinal section of turnings can be very helpful. way to show
concepts.”
Labels
Small temporary stick-on labels placed on parts of the lathe, tools,
etc. are a simple way to help students remember terminology.

Using Notes
While you are initially becoming comfortable with the
teaching process it may be helpful to prepare a few key
words on note cards. Use small magnets to hold them on
the lathe to refer to while demonstrating.

Handouts
Prepared handouts help clarify turning strategies and help
students remember terminology, sequence and other important “Prepared
details, especially after the class session. New turners will handouts help
appreciate any information you can provide regarding wood- clarify turning
turning resources, such as information about AAW, local strategies and
chapters, and local suppliers. Please respect copyright ethics
help students
and laws when preparing handouts.
remember
The Learning Environment terminology,
sequence
Class size and other
We highly recommend your initial teaching experience be important
limited to teaching one or two students and then gradually details. . .”
increase the size of the group as you gain experience as an
instructor. Smaller class sizes are more enjoyable and
productive for both the instructor and the students. There
should be an instructor or capable assistant available for every
three or four students.

5
 One-on-One
This is by far the easiest teaching situation as you won’t have to
divide your time and attention among students.

2 or 3 students
Teaching two or three students can be quite manageable, but pace
becomes more of a concern. You will find that attending to the
“Working needs of three new turners will keep you plenty busy.
with group
4 to 6 Students
chemistry and
Teaching a class of new turners with up to 6 students is not recom-
individual mended without the aid of an assistant. Classes this size require
personalities more planning and preparation on the part of the instructor, and
can be a more patience on the part of the learner.
challenging
7 to 10 Students
aspect of
Keeping up with a class this size requires the aid of at least one,
teaching.” preferably two, capable assistants. A good assistant can make or
break the success of a class this large. It becomes more difficult to
provide individual instruction so you may need to stop the class in
order to clarify a relevant detail to the whole group
rather than having to repeat the same instructions
to each person.

Working with Various Personalities

Working with group chemistry and individual per-
sonalities can be a challenging aspect of teaching.
Having a student who is feeling ignored and frus-
trated creates an irritating experience for them, and
a tough teaching session for you. Some students
who are really in need of help may be hesitant to
ask for assistance and may need to be encouraged
to be more assertive in seeking your help. Others
may have a tendency to dominate your attention if you are not
careful. Occasionally, you may need to deal with one or more
students who are distracting the demonstration or work session.
This can be tricky, and it is important to respond in a respectful
manner to avoid misunderstandings and reactionary behavior. It is
best not to reprimand someone in front of others, but wait for a
moment when you can discretely speak privately.

A Good Assistant Need Not Be an Expert

When teaching multiple students, especially students who are raw
beginners, it is helpful to have an assistant at each lathe. It is not
necessary that every assistant be highly experienced at turning and
teaching, as long as they are familiar with safety issues and can
follow the lead of the primary instructor. Often, fellow club
members with even limited turning or teaching experience can
quickly become a great asset to a beginning class as they learn by
6 assisting an experienced turner.
One-on-one Instruction
When working with students one-on-one, don't take the tool out
of the student’s hand to demonstrate how to make a cut.
Instead, let the student hold the tool while you carefully grasp
the tool handle between the student’s hands and gently
guide and talk through the cut. Always stand to one side
rather than reaching around the student from behind which
is much less effective, restricts your view, and makes most
students rather uncomfortable. If done properly, slowly
letting go of the tool enables the student to gradually transi-
tion to taking full control of the cut. This way they will not
only see, but also feel the cut being made. In addition this
lets them feel they have helped make the cut rather than
simply watched someone else do it. When helping guide a
cut it is always important to avoid making the student
uncomfortable by getting too “up close and personal.”
Always take care to respect the student’s personal space.

Medical and Other Considerations

Be aware that some students may have specific concerns or
disabilities which should be factored in to their expected
level of participation in the class. These could include:
• Limited hearing or reduced vision
• Medical conditions or injuries that restrict movement
or limit their ability to perform certain tasks
• Wood allergies or other sensitivities to environmental
conditions
• Limited understanding of your language

Time Management Strategies “When working

Know the approximate time it will take you to teach the concepts with students
or projects you are covering. Pace yourself to stay on track as one-on-one,
much as possible. The natural inclination for most people is to don't take the
try to squeeze too much instruction into a limited time period.
tool out of the
student’s hand
The Importance of Breaks
As an instructor, you will soon discover that teaching and learn- to demonstrate
ing demands a surprising amount of energy, so it is a good idea how to make a
to take a break every couple hours. It is best to encourage cut. Instead . . .
everyone to get out of the workshop to clear their head, socialize gently guide
with each other, or just get off their feet for a while. Breaks also
offer a time for participants to talk among themselves about and talk
turning in general and to develop friendships with others who through the
have similar interests. While there is value in all students taking cut.
a break periodically, some students may want to use break time
to catch up with the remainder of the class. While this is not
recommended, it may be accommodated, if appropriate.
If not everyone takes a break at once, there should always be a
responsible party when any student is present in the workshop
and whenever any equipment is being used. 7
 Set Up: Workshop Environment
And Protocol
Lathe Arrangements
Being able to freely walk around each lathe has many
instructional advantages for both instructor and student.

Staggering the lathes or setting them at a slight diagonal to

a wall prevents a student from standing in the ‘throw line’ of
an adjacent lathe — this is less important with spindle work
than when bowl turning where there is a greater chance of
‘flying objects’ suddenly appearing. There are better ways of
making a turning session memorable than being clobbered
by a wooden projectile. In some turning schools each
turning station is divided by a screen, wall section, or tool
panel. Where a tool panel is not provided it is important to
have a small table or cart where students can place their in-
dividual tools. They should be encouraged to avoid placing
their tools on the lathe bed.

Lathe speeds
Check each lathe for appropriate start-up speed.

Spindle Height
“A good rule of Try to adjust the spindle height in relation to the student
who will be using that particular lathe. A good rule of thumb
thumb is that
is that the spindle height should be somewhere around the
the spindle same distance from the floor as a person’s heart. It should
height should be no lower than their elbow while standing in a relaxed
be somewhere position.
around the
Floor Mats
same distance
Having a good rubber mat to stand on instead of a hard
from the floor concrete floor helps reduce leg and back fatigue. A mat can
as a person’s also reduce damage to dropped tools.
heart.”
Lighting
Adequate lighting is important not only for seeing the work
but also for reducing eye fatigue and, over time, eye
damage. Ideally each station should have good overhead
lighting as well as a moveable work lamp to provide more
direct light on the project. Lights which have protective
shields are recommended.

Extension cords
Use of extension cords that cross traffic areas should be
avoided.

8
Protection for Eyes, Ears, and Lungs
Be sure to wear eye protection whenever demonstrating.
Safety glasses are often sufficient when turning relatively small
spindles. Full face shields provide the most protection but
make it more difficult to be heard while demonstrating. Face
shields should be worn whenever the workpiece is large
enough to cause injury that safety glasses alone won’t
prevent. Teach the students how to properly adjust the
head-band and how to lift the shield for talking. Face shields
should be kept clean and free of scratches.
• Hearing protection and dust protection should be
recommended and should be made available to
students. Mention that some people are particularly
bothered by dust from woods such as cocobolo and other
“Beginning
exotics and that precautions should be taken to avoid
breathing fine dust whenever possible. Breathing dust turners will
from spalted wood should also be avoided. have plenty
to challenge
Tool Sharpening them without
Beginning turners will have plenty to challenge them without complicating
complicating the first lesson with sharpening. This is especially the first
true with short-format classes. As a result, added preparation lesson with
may be required of the instructor to assure that the tools are sharpening.”
ready to use. Where time allows, sharpening should be
gradually introduced, starting with the easiest
tools to grind such as parting tools, scrapers,
and roughing gouges. The use of a good
sharpening jig system will help students get
much more consistent results than free-hand
sharpening, and will save both the instructor
and student time and frustration. It may be
helpful for the instructor to have extra
sharpened tools on hand.

Wood Selection
When teaching beginning students select a domestic hardwood
that has straight grain, is dry or nearly dry, and is free of knots
and defects. Woods such as poplar, alder, basswood, soft
maple, pine, and cherry are excellent. Woods with more even
density (diffuse porous) tend to yield better surface qualities
for beginners than variable density (ring porous) species such
as oak, ash, and elm. Exercise blanks should be relatively
small, about 2" square, and about an inch shorter than the
length of the toolrest. Green wood works well for the bead and
cove exercises.

9
 Suggested Workshop Agenda

2-3 hours
• Welcome students, brief introductions, overview and
purposes of the workshop (5-10 minutes)
• General safety; introduction to the lathe (5-10 minutes,
safety will be taught and reinforced throughout the work-
shop)
• First demonstration: Mounting stock between
centers; roughing out using the spindle roughing
gouge; feedback and questions (10-15 minutes)
• First work session: Guided practice; roughing stock
with spindle roughing gouge (10-15 minutes)
• Second demonstration: Laying out the exercises
using a parting tool; feedback and questions
(5-10 minutes)
• Second work session: layout using the parting tool
(10-15 minutes)
• Third demonstration: Cutting beads with a 3/8" spindle
gouge; feedback and questions (10-15 minutes)
• Third work session: Guided practice; cutting beads with a
3/8" spindle gouge (15-20 minutes)
• Fourth demonstration: Cutting coves with a 3/8" spindle
gouge; feedback and questions (10-15 minutes)
• Fourth work session: Guided practice; cutting coves with a
3/8" spindle gouge (15-20 minutes)
• Break (5-10 minutes, the end of the break should be no
later than the 2 hour mark)
(See project handouts for recommended projects.)
• Fifth demonstration: First project; feedback and questions
(15-20 minutes)
• Fifth work session: Guided practice making the first project
(30-45 minutes)
• Sixth demonstration: Second project; feedback and
questions (if the workshop is longer than three hours and
time allows)
• Sixth work session: Guided practice making the second
project (if the workshop is longer than three hours and time
allows)
• Feedback and suggestions (5-10 minutes)
• Clean up, goodbyes (10-15 minutes)

NOTE: Based on the shorter time frames, this workshop would take 2
hours 45 minutes without including the optional second project. The
time frames provided are estimated targets and will vary depending
on a variety of conditions. The instructor should adjust the time
frames as appropriate.

10
1 Welcome students, brief introductions, overview and
purposes of the workshop: Take a few moments to
briefly introduce yourself and have the students briefly
introduce themselves. It may be helpful to find out from the
students how they got interested in turning, what their skill level
is, what they hope to gain from the class, what kinds of projects
they are most interested in making, and what type of equipment
they have available to practice on. Wearing simple name tags or
posting the student’s name somewhere near the lathe they will
be using will help you and the other students become familiar “. . . it sets a
with one another. Even if the session is only part of a day, it tone of respect
sets a tone of respect to call each student by their name, and to call each
makes communication easier.
student by

2 Safety and introduction to the lathe: It is of utmost their name,

importance to teach through example proper respect for and makes
equipment and an attitude of safety. After discussing communication
safety concerns with the group, be sure to reinforce safety easier.”
principles as you provide individual instruction.

Safety
• As a minimum always wear safety goggles or safety glasses
that include side protectors. Use a full faceshield for bowl,
vessel or any turning involving chucks and faceplates.

• Tie back long hair, do not wear gloves, and avoid loose
clothing, jewelry or any dangling objects that may catch on
rotating parts or accessories.

• Always check the speed of the lathe before turning it on.

Use slower speeds for larger diameters or rough pieces, and
higher speeds for smaller diameters and pieces that are
balanced. Always start a piece at a slower speed until the
workpiece is balanced. If the lathe is shaking or vibrating,
lower the speed. If the workpiece vibrates, always stop the
machine to check the reason.

• Check that all locking devices on the tailstock and tool rest
assembly (rest and base) are tight before operating the lathe.

• Position the tool rest close to work, almost touching the

wood. Check tool rest position often and as wood is
removed, turn off the lathe and re-position the rest.

• Rotate your workpiece by hand to make sure it clears the

toolrest and bed before turning the lathe “on.” Be certain
that the workpiece turns freely and is firmly mounted. A
handwheel on the outboard side of the headstock simplifies
this process of spinning the lathe by hand before turning on
the switch.
11
 Be aware of what turners call the “red zone” or “firing zone.”
This is the area directly behind and in front of the workpiece —
the areas most likely for a piece to travel as it comes off the
lathe. A good safety habit is to step out of this zone when
switching the lathe to the “on” position. When observing
others turn stay out of this area.

• Hold turning tools securely on the toolrest, holding the tool

in a controlled and comfortable manner. Always contact the
tool rest with the tool before contacting the wood.

• It is safest to turn the lathe “off” before adjusting the tool

rest or tool rest base (banjo).

• Remove the tool rest before sanding or polishing operations.

• Never leave the lathe running unattended. Turn the power

off. Don’t leave the lathe until it comes to a complete stop.
Using the spindle
NOTE: These safety items have been selected from the 2007 revised
roughing gouge
safety guidelines of the American Association of Woodturners avail-
able from the AAW or published in their annual directory. There are
another 15 safety principles on the AAW list. You may wish to copy
all 26 and give special attention to the guidelines listed above.

3 First demonstration: Mounting stock between

centers; using the spindle roughing gouge;
roughing out; feedback and questions

Standard Spur Drive center

Drive Center The drive center is placed in the headstock and rotates with the
lathe to drive the wood while turning. The most common type
of drive center is the Spur Center which consists of a center
point and four spurs that penetrate into
the end of the spindle to provide traction.
When teaching beginning turners, some
instructors prefer to use a Cup Drive
instead of a spur drive. The cup drive has
a center point inside a supporting cup, but
no spurs. When turning with cup drive, if
the tool begins to catch the wood, the cup
drive acts similar to a clutch and allows
the wood to slip. This stops the rotation of
the wood rather than forcing the tool to
dig in and tear the surface.
Cup Drive Centers

12
Ball bearing tail center
The Ball Bearing Tail Center supports the wood on the tailstock
end of the lathe. The ball bearing action allows the tail
center to rotate freely with the wood.

Before turning on the lathes

A short checklist will assure that students are ready to
turn on the lathe:

• Eye protection on

• Blank properly mounted between centers: drive center

point engaged in the end-grain

• Tailstock base firmly locked

• Tailstock ram not extended too far out, and live center
pressed into the endgrain

• Tailstock ram locked Ball Bearing Tail

Center
• Tool rest base locked firmly in position

• Tool rest set at proper height and distance from the

wood to avoid contact

Free rotation
Instruct students to spin the outboard hand-wheel with their
left hand before turning on the lathe, just to confirm that the
wood won’t strike the tool rest. If this is always done before Exercise blank
they turn the lathe on, they will avoid problems after mounted on lathe
re-positioning the tool rest.

On and off
Direct the students to practice starting and stopping the lathe
a few times before actually taking any cuts. They should be
able to find the switch and quickly stop the lathe in a matter of
seconds. Teach them to listen for inappropriate or unusual
sounds.

13
 Spindle Roughing Gouge (3/4")
The Spindle Roughing Gouge is the most
efficient tool to remove the square corners
from a spindle and to do rough shaping of
gentle curves. The gouge bevel is typi-
cally ground rather flat across the cutting
edge with a bevel angle of about 50
degrees. The tool handle is held low
enough that when the handle is raised,
the edge produces a peeling or planing
cut which produces a relatively clean
Spindle surface.
Roughing
Gouge NOTE: The Spindle Roughing Gouge should only be used
where the grain of the wood is parallel to the lathe bed.

Proper Tool Grip

The simple over-hand grip is the easiest for roughing gouge
use:
• Right hand: grip near the end (butt) of the handle, thumb
pointing forward and on the top
• Left hand: grasp the steel within the first few inches
down from the cutting edge. The left hand should be in
contact with the tool rest.
Note: Left-handers: reverse positioning

Left hand grip Right hand grip

Stance
Proper stance and body mechanics are paramount in helping
students progress. Feet should be placed about shoulder width
apart and the body should be positioned to allow the turner to
shift their body weight from one foot to another as they lean
from side to side while making the cut. Student should be
shown the proper method of flexible body movement and
discouraged from simply moving their arms to follow the
progression of the cut.

14
Roughing out
Your example is critical in setting not just the sequence and
movements, but the pace as well, so move at the speed you
would want a beginning turner to proceed. As the roughing
process nears completion, teach students to check whether the
flat sections have been removed. The safest method is to turn
the lathe off and inspect the wood. A more efficient method is
to gently place the underneath side of the tool shaft on top of
the rotating wood and then feel and listen for flat sections
contacting the tool.

Left: Using the

spindle roughing
gouge

Right: Checking
for round

4 First work session: Guided practice;

roughing stock with spindle
roughing gouge

Parting

5 Second demonstration: Laying

out the exercises using a parting
tool; feedback and questions
Tools

Show how to cut shoulders and set depth.

Parting Tool (1/8") The Parting Tool

is a special purpose tool used primarily to
produce square shoulders and to turn wood
to a specified diameter. It is often used in
conjunction with outside calipers when
careful measuring is required. Parting tools
are available in a variety of cross-section
shapes. For general purposes, parting tools
are relatively easy to control and usually
produce a scraping cut. When making
parting tool cuts deeper than 1/2”, the cut
should be widened slightly to prevent the
tool from binding.

15
 6 Second work session:
Layout using the parting tool
Make a series of parting tool cuts about 3/4” apart
and 3/8” deep.

Spindle
Gouge 7 Third demonstration: Cutting beads
with a 3/8" spindle gouge;
feedback and questions

Spindle Gouge (3/8")

The 3/8" Spindle Gouge is a versatile tool used in turning
most of the detail work desired on a spindle. It can also
be used for turning details on bowls and other items. It is
most useful for turning detail when the bevel is ground to
a rather long angle of about 30 to 40 degrees and the
sides are ground back forming a "fingernail" grind.
However, it is easier to control if ground at about 45
degrees. The Spindle Gouge is used to turn beads, coves,
tapers, shoulders, ogee curves, and various combinations
of these shapes. When sharpened and used properly the spin-
“Every dle gouge will efficiently produce a clean cut.
student
should
First Cuts: ABC’s
remember One recommendation is that you have every student remember
‘the A B C’s’ - “the A B C’s”: Anchor, Bevel, Cut
Anchor,
Bevel, • Anchor — set the tool firmly on the tool rest — explain that
the forces of the cut must be taken by the tool rest in as
Cut.”
direct a manner as possible.

• Bevel — instruct the students to always begin with the

handle low, so that the bevel is the first part of the tool
steel that contacts the spinning wood.

• Cut — slowly raise the handle until the edge engages the
wood and begins to cut a shaving. Keep the
handle as low as is possible while still pro-
ducing a shaving.

Direction of Cut
When spindle turning, teach students to
cut “downhill” from large diameter to small
diameter.

16
Bevel Contact
Constantly bring their awareness to the importance of bevel
contact. The bevel being in contact with the wood is what
gives the turner control of the tool. When the bevel loses
contact with the wood a catch is likely to occur.

Stance
Proper stance and body mechanics are paramount in helping
students progress.

Demonstrate how to apply the above principles to cut beads.

8
Third work session:
Guided practice;
cutting beads with a
3/8" spindle gouge

9 Fourth demonstration: Cutting coves

with a 3/8" spindle gouge;
feedback and questions

Show how to use the 3/8” spindle gouge to cut coves by

cutting from each side down to the center.

When starting the cove cut, be aware

that the ABC rule will briefly be broken
because the cutting edge will come into
contact with the wood before the
bevel. When this happens, there is a
chance the tool will dig in and run
backwards. Explain that this can be
prevented by starting the cut with the
gouge rolled on its side with the flute
toward the center of the cove being cut.
It also requires a little extra support from
the hand that is holding the tool on the
tool rest.

17
 10 Fourth work session: Guided practice;
cutting coves with a 3/8" spindle gouge

NOTE: Once the students have done all three exercises:

rounding down the spindle blank with the roughing gouge,
setting diameters with the parting tool, and rolling beads and
coves with the spindle gouge; they will be ready to apply
these cuts to the first project.

11 Break

12 Fifth demonstration: First project

(select from project handouts);
feedback and questions

13 Fifth work session: Guided practice making the

first project

14 Sixth demonstration: Second project

(if time allows) (select from project handouts);
feedback and questions

15 Sixth work session: Guided practice making the

second project (if time allows)

16 Feedback and suggestions

18
17 Clean up, goodbyes

Begin cleaning up by putting away wood, tools, and “Encourage

supplies. Then brush down the upper surfaces (lathes, tables, the students to
workbenches, etc.), and finally sweep the floor. Encourage
students to wear safety glasses during clean-up.
take some
time within
It is not recommended that air hoses be used to blow off surfaces. the next few
However, if air hoses are used, take the following precautions: days to
• Safety nozzles must be attached to all air hoses practice
• Pressure should not exceed 30 psi
the basic cuts
• Air must not be sprayed directly at any person
they have
• Safety glasses must be worn
learned.”
Encourage the students to take some time within the next few
days to practice the basic cuts they have learned.

Teaching Young Turners

A
lthough the following suggestions are provided to
help in teaching young children in particular, you will
find that they apply to teaching children of all ages.

Since children have a short attention span and are inter-

ested in instant gratification, it is important that the in-
struction be brief so they can be on the lathe turning as
soon as possible. It is also important that they experience
success in a short period of time. It is more important
that they have fun than produce a high quality project.
However, with good instruction and appropriate project
selection, young turners should be able to have success
quickly making a simple useful project. Finishes should be
simple and quick to apply. Paste wax, mineral oil, or
friction polish work well.

Safety
Young children often have a heightened sense of invincibility, a
limited sense of danger and a propensity toward horse play.
Consequently, they will generally try things that more experienced
adults wouldn't consider. As a result it is important to remove
potential hazards and to give added emphasis to safety. It is of
course essential that the instructor model all the safety behaviors
you are trying to instill. It is also important to convey absolute
respect for the sharpened end of tools.

19
 Project Selection
Projects should have child appeal. Items that are useful (such as the
stick pen or ice cream scoop handle), or fun to play with (the
spinning top or ball and cup game), are particularly good for young
turners. Children also like to make projects they can give as gifts to
friends or family. Small projects that require a minimum amount of
wood to be removed are recommended. We have included
procedure sheets for several projects that may be appropriate.

Simple Enhancements
It is easy to add simple decorations or a touch of color to a
turning. After students have some basic experience, you
may want to demonstrate how to enhance their projects
with wire burn lines, colored pens and ink, or chatterwork.

“Use attached Teaching Techniques

handouts to Most all children are good visual learners. Anything you can show
plan varied them such as finished examples of projects, cutaways of projects
student showing a section view, and large wooden models of tools will help
you communicate a lot of information in a short period of time.
projects:
Here is an old model that works well with individual kids:
Bead & Cove
Stick, Step 1: The instructor demonstrates the cut or process, explaining
what, how and why as they do it.
Ball and Cup
Game, Step 2: The student teaches back to the instructor what to do, how
to do it, and why. If this is correct, the instructor again demonstrates
Stick Pen, the cut following the students' instructions (if wrong, go back to
Step 1).
Wooden Egg,
Honey Step 3: The student tells the instructor what he/she is going to do,
how, and why. If correct, the student makes the cut with the
Dipper,
instructor watching (if wrong, go back to Step 2).
Ice Cream
Scoop, To help students connect turning to the world around them, ask them
to identify items they see in everyday life that they think were proba-
Combination bly turned on a lathe.
Screwdriver,
Finger Sharpening and Drilling
Spinning Top.” Plan on sharpening the tools before each session and consider
periodic honing to keep the tools sharp during the session. All
sharpening is handled by the instructor. The instructor should also do
all drilling operations until you are confident the student is ready to do
this on their own. If students are using the drill press, safety
instruction should be given to assure safe use.

20
Equipment and Accessories
Use of smaller lathes with lower horse power is highly recommended.
For chucking purposes, it is preferable to use lathes with similar
tapers in the headstock and tailstock and with common threads so
that accessories can be interchanged between lathes if necessary.
Teach the students to catch the centers when they use the knock-out Two platforms are
bar. This prevents the points from being damaged when they hit the used to raise a
lathe bed or the floor. A belt drive has advantages over electronic young student
variable speed since the instructor can fix the speed and it is less to the proper
likely to be tampered or played with by the students. turning height.

The height of the lathe is a major consideration that is

often overlooked when teaching children. The spindle
should be at about elbow height. This may require some
work to accomplish. There are two approaches to address-
ing this concern. The best approach is to adjust the lathe
to be at the correct height of the child by using an adjust-
able stand (e.g. Jet mini lathe stand), cutting down the
height of the stand, or adjusting the height of the table.
The second method is to adjust the child to be at the
correct height for the lathe. This can be done by standing
the student on a wooden stage made from 2x4s and ply-
wood, or even stacking of mats. If a platform is built up,
it should be large enough to prevent the student from
accidentally stepping off it during normal turning
operations.

The lathe should be equipped with a headstock handwheel.

Some instructors prefer to use a dead center or cup drive

in the headstock to drive center work rather than a spur
drive. This allows the instructor to control the amount of
drive based on the abilities and/or fear level of the young
turner. If the turner is too aggressive with the tool, the
wood simply stops spinning rather than cause a catch.

For small projects that need to be supported only at one

end (such as a spinning top), secure the stock using a
wooden Morse taper driven into the headstock rather than
a scroll chuck. The Morse taper—turned from extra material
on the project blank— can be as short as 1.5” in length.
Use support from the tailstock as much as possible. Underside of
platform
Although they are a little harder to find, there are full faceshields
available for small heads (adjustable to small head sizes and only
about 8” in length for the shielded area). These are preferred
over goggles in order to offer full facial protection.

21
 Headstock Spindle

Toolrest

Handwheel Tailstock

Banjo
Bed Tailstock Lock

Knock-out Rod
Banjo Clamp
Lathe
HANDOUT

The Wood
1. As a minimum always wear safety goggles or safety glasses that
include side protectors. Use a full faceshield for bowl, vessel or any
turning involving chucks and faceplates.

2. Tie back long hair, do not wear gloves, and avoid loose clothing,
jewelry or any dangling objects that may catch on rotating parts or
accessories. HANDOUT
3. Always check the speed of the lathe before turning it on. Use
slower speeds for larger diameters or rough pieces, and higher
speeds for smaller diameters and pieces that are balanced. Always
Safety
start a piece at a slower speed until the workpiece is balanced. If the
lathe is shaking or vibrating, lower the speed. If the workpiece
vibrates, always stop the machine to check the reason. As a starting
point, consult your operator’s manual for recommended speeds for a
particular lathe.

4. Check that all locking devices on the tailstock and tool rest
assembly (rest and base) are tight before operating the lathe.

5. Position the tool rest close to work, almost touching the wood.
As wood is removed, turn off the lathe and re-position the rest.

6. Rotate your workpiece by hand to make sure it clears the toolrest

and bed before turning the lathe “on.” Be certain that the workpiece
turns freely and is firmly mounted. A handwheel on the headstock
simplifies this process of spinning the lathe by hand before turning on
the switch.

7. Be aware of what turners call the “red zone” or “firing zone.” This
is the area directly behind and in front of the workpiece — the areas
most likely for a piece to travel as it comes off the lathe. A good
safety habit is to step out of this zone when turning on the lathe.
When observing someone else turn stay out of this area.

8. Hold turning tools securely on the toolrest, holding the tool in a

controlled and comfortable manner. The tool should always be in
contact with the tool rest before contacting the wood with the tool.

9. It is safest to turn the lathe “off” before adjusting the tool rest or
tool rest base (banjo).

10. Remove the toolrest before sanding or polishing operations.

11. Never leave the lathe running unattended. Turn power off. Don’t
leave the lathe until it comes to a complete stop.

NOTE: These safety items have been selected from the 2007 revised
safety guidelines of the American Association of Woodturners
(available from the AAW or published in their annual directory).
There are another 15 safety principles on the AAW list. You may
wish to copy all 26 and give special attention to the above 11.
Appropriate lathe speed should allow the blanks to be turned with
little or no vibration. Vibration is usually caused by the wood being
HANDOUT
unbalanced in weight, and is particularly common before the wood
has been rough turned down to round. Low speeds are needed to
reduce the vibration until the work becomes balanced, then speeds How to
can be increased for more efficient turning. Determine
Suggested lathe speeds for various diameters of spindle stock are Safe Lathe
given below. If there is a question regarding whether a lathe rpm
is set too high, chances are it is. It is best to work on the side of Speeds
caution. A slower lathe speed may require more time to remove the
excess stock, but will allow for safer turning. Cutting principles
remain constant regardless of lathe speed.

Suggested lathe speeds:

Diameter of Stock Lathe Speed

1” or less 3,000 rpm

1.5” 2,500 rpm
2” 2,000 rpm
3” 1,500 rpm
Spindle Roughing Gouge (3/4")
The Spindle Roughing Gouge is the most efficient tool to remove the
square corners from a spindle and to do rough shaping of gentle
curves. The gouge bevel is typically ground rather flat across the
cutting edge with a bevel angle of about a 50 degrees. The tool
handle is held low enough to
produce a peeling or planning HANDOUT
cut when the handle is raised
and the cutting edge contacts
the workpiece. This produces a
relatively clean surface. If the
Tools &
tool is held at 90 degrees to the Accessories
wood the result will be a
scraping cut which leaves a
torn surface.

NOTE: The Spindle Roughing Gouge should not be use for turning
bowls or other objects where the grain of the wood is not parallel to
the lathe bed.

Spindle Gouge (3/8")

The 3/8" Spindle Gouge is a versa-

tile tool used in turning most of the
detail work desired on a spindle. It
can also be used for turning details
on bowls and other items. It is
most useful when the bevel is
ground to a rather long angle of
about 40 degrees and the sides are
ground back forming a "fingernail"
grind. With this grind it can be used
to turn fine details and work into tight corners. The Spindle Gouge is
used to turn beads, coves, tapers, shoulders, ogee curves, and
various combinations of these shapes. When sharpened and used
properly the spindle gouge will efficiently produce a clean cut.

Parting Tool (1/8")

The Parting Tool is a special purpose tool used primarily to turn wood
to a specified diameter. It is often
used in conjunction with outside
calipers when careful measuring is
required. Parting tools are available in
a variety of cross-section shapes. For
general purposes, parting tools are
relatively easy to control and usually
produce a scraping cut. Each bevel on
a parting tool is typically ground at
about 30 degrees making the angle
between the two bevels about 60
degrees.

OVER
 Drive Center
The drive center is placed in the headstock and rotates with the lathe
to drive the wood while turning. The most common type of drive
center is the Spur Center which consists of a center point and four
spurs that penetrate into the end of the spindle to provide traction.
Some turners prefer a Cup Drive. The cup drive has a centerpoint
Tools & inside a supporting cup, but no spurs. When turning with a cup drive,
if the tool begins to catch the wood, the cup drive acts similar to a
Accessories clutch and allows the wood to slip. This stops the rotation of the
wood rather than force the tool to dig in and tear the surface.

Spur Drive Center Cup Drive Center

Ball Bearing Tail Center

The Ball Bearing Tail Center
supports the wood on the tailstock
end of the lathe. The ball bearing
action allows the tail center to
rotate freely with the wood.

Ball Bearing
Tail Center

Morse Taper
The drive center, tail center, and several other accessories are
secured in the lathe using a morse taper. The taper on the end of the
accessory (drive, center, tail center, etc.) matches the taper on the
inside of the headstock and tailstock. The fit between the accessory
and lathe is a friction fit. These accessories are usually removed
simply by tapping on them with a knock-out rod that is fed through
the end of the headstock or tailstock. When removing an accessory
that is secured in a morse taper, hold onto the accessory while
tapping with the knockout rod so the accessory does not drop and hit
the lathe bed or the floor.
Brief Description of the Project and/or
Project Strengths:
• This is an exercise intended to help develop tool-handling skills
with the spindle gouge prior to using the techniques on the
projects.
• Turn the largest cylinder possible from the blank to start, next cut
the beads, then turn the beads into coves. Rough the blank down HANDOUT
to a smaller cylinder and repeat the exercise.

Estimated Time for Instruction:

• 10 to 15 minutes
Bead &
Cove Stick
Estimated Time for Participants to Complete:
• 15 to 30 minutes — can be repeated if time allows

Project Materials Needed for Each Participant:

• 1.75" x 1.75" x 9" straight grained wood

Tools and Accessories Needed for Each Participant:

• Drive center
• Ball-bearing tail center
• 3/4" spindle roughing gouge
• 3/8" spindle gouge
• Parting tool

Procedure for Making the Project:

1. Mount the turning blank on the lathe

Use a drive center in the headstock and a ball
bearing tail center in the tailstock.

2. Remove the square corners using a

3/4” spindle roughing gouge.

3. Layout the beads using a parting tool.

Lay out the width of several beads down the
length of the round turning blank. First use the
parting tool to set the small diameters at the ends
of the beads. This makes it easier to round over
the corner from large diameter to smaller with the
spindle gouge. It also reduces the tendency for
the wing of the gouge to be scraping into the
end-grain of the wood.

OVER
 4. Cut the beads using a 3/8” spindle gouge
Pay attention to the position of the tool at the start of the cut
(large diameter of the bead, gouge bevel rubbing, wing engaged
in the cut), and then at the outside of the bead (small diameter,
gouge flute rolled over to the side, tool nearly perpendicular to
the lathe axis and parallel to the floor).
Bead &
5. Cut the coves using a 3/8” spindle gouge
Cove Stick
Pay particular attention to the starting and ending position.
These are similar to the positions used on the beads but reversed:
the tool entry position for the cove is at the large diameter with
the flute rotated to the side, and it finishes the cut with flute up at
the lowest diameter.

If using the overhand grip, have the heel of the upper hand in
contact with the tool rest so that the base of the little finger can
help prevent the gouge from running back. If using the index-
finger-under-the-tool-rest grip the thumb provides the same sort
of backing for the gouge.

Overhand Grip

Underhand Grip
Brief Description of the Project and/or
Project Strengths:
• Fun to make and fun to use
• Inexpensive
• Good introduction for use of spindle roughing gouge and 3/8"
spindle gouge
• A particularly good project for children HANDOUT
Suggestions for Simple Decoration:
• Coloring with markers or dyes Ball & Cup
• Decorating with wire burners
Game
Estimated Time for Instruction:
• 20 to 30 minutes

Estimated Time for Participants to

Complete:
• 40 to 60 minutes

Project Materials Needed for

Each Participant:
• 1.75" x 1.75" x 9" straight grained wood
• String approximately 18" long
• 1" wood ball (available at most craft stores)

Tools and Accessories Needed for Each

Participant:
• Drive center
• Ball-bearing tail center
• 3/4" spindle roughing gouge
• 3/8" spindle gouge

Materials and Accessories Needed for Use by the Group:

• 3/32" drill bit
• Thick CA glue
• Cordless or electric drill
• Toothpick or stiff paper clip
• Abrasive paper in various grits
• Finish, such as friction polish or oil
• Finish rag

Advanced Preparation Needed by the Instructor:

• Prepare the turning blanks by cutting straight grained wood 1.75"
x 1.75" x approximately 9" long. Using a 1.25" Forstner bit drill a
hole in one end that is 1.25” deep. (The easiest and safest way
to do this is on a drill press, but it can also be done on the a
lathe. If done on the lathe, mount the blank in a scroll chuck and
the drill bit in a drill chuck in the tailstock. Advance the rotating
wood into the drill bit.)

OVER
 Procedure for Making the Project:

1. Mount the turning blank on the lathe. Use a drive center in

the headstock centered in the bottom of the drilled hole. Use a ball
bearing tail center in the tailstock.

Ball & Cup 2. Remove the square corners. Use a 3/4" spindle roughing
Game gouge. A peeling or planing cut works well for this.

3. Shape the spindle as desired. Rough shaping can be done with

the spindle roughing gouge. Finish shaping and detailing should be
done with the 3/8' spindle gouge. Take care to not cut into the drilled
hole.

4. Sand and apply finish to the spindle as desired. The first

coat of finish should be applied while the lathe is stopped.

5. Drill the holes for the strings. Lock the spindle in place and
drill a 3/32" diameter hole about 1/4" deep near the base of the cup.
Also drill a 3/32" diameter hole about 1/4" deep in the 1" wood ball.

6. Remove the spindle from the lathe. Hand sand each end of
the spindle as needed.

7. Glue the ends of the string into the spindle and the ball.
Using a toothpick or the end of a stiff paper clip, apply a small
amount of thick CA glue into the 3/32" diameter hole in the spindle.
Then fold over about 1/4" of the end of the string and use the tooth-
pick to press the string firmly into the bottom of the hole. Allow the
glue to cure for 3-5 minutes. Repeat this process to secure the string
into the ball.

8. Have some fun. Your custom turned Ball and Cup Game is ready
to be enjoyed.
Brief Description of the Project and/or
Project Strengths:
• Useful project
• Very inexpensive

Suggestions for Simple Decoration:

• Coloring with markers or dyes HANDOUT
• Decorating with wire burners

Estimated Time for Instruction:

• 10-15 minutes
Stick Pen
Estimated Time for Participants to
Complete:
• 20 to 30 minutes

Project Materials Needed for

Each Participant:
• 5/8" x 5/8" x 7" straight grained wood
• Bic ballpoint pen

Materials and Accessories

Needed for Each Participant:
• 5/32" drill bit
• Cordless or electric drill
• Drive center
• Ball-bearing tail center with cone point
• 3/8" spindle gouge
• Abrasive paper in various grits
• Finish, such as, friction polish or oil
• Finish rag

Advanced Preparation Needed by the Instructor:

• Prepare the turning blanks by cutting straight grained wood
5/8" x 5/8" x 7" long. Using a 5/32" bit drill a hole in one end
that is at least 2" deep. (The easiest way to do this is on a drill
press, but it can also be done on the a lathe. If done on the
lathe, mount the drill bit in a drill chuck in the headstock, then
center the blank on the tailstock and advance the blank into the
rotating bit. Also, using a bandsaw or handsaw, make saw cuts
for the spurs of the drive center to seat into.)

OVER
 Procedure

1. Mount the turning blank on the lathe. Use a drive center in

the headstock centered on the blank with the spurs seated in the saw
cuts. With the cone point tail center in the drilled hole, apply light
pressure with the tailstock.
Stick Pen
NOTE: Another method of mounting the blank is to put a drill chuck in
the headstock with a 5/32” metal rod secured in the drill chuck. The
metal rod should be long enough to bottom out in the drilled hole and
allow about 1/4” of clearance between the end of the pen blank and
the drill chuck. A ball-bearing tail center is used in the tailstock. This
chucking method reduces the possibility of splitting the pen blank due
to excess pressure between the centers.

2. Remove the square corners. Use a 3/8" spindle gouge.

A peeling or planing cut works well for this.

3. Shape the spindle as desired. Shape the pen as desired.

Shaping and detailing can also be done with the 3/8" spindle gouge.
Light cuts work best.

4. Sand the apply finish to the spindle.

5. Remove the spindle from the lathe. Hand sand each end of
the spindle as needed.

6. Insert the Bic cartridge into the pen. If the drilled hole is not
as deep as the length of the cartridge, simply cut off the cartridge to
fit inside the hole.

7. Enjoy your simple but beautifully turned pen.

Brief Description of the Project and/or
Project Strengths:
• Inexpensive
• Good introduction for use of basic spindle turning tools
• Good for training the eye to see the classic egg shape
• A challenging project to do well, better for adults than children HANDOUT
Suggestions for Simple Decoration:
• Coloring with markers or dyes Wooden
Estimated Time for Instruction:
Egg
• 10 to 15 minutes

Estimated Time for Participants to

Complete:
• 20 to 30 minutes

Project Materials Needed for Each

Participant:
• 2" x 2" x 3.5" straight grained wood

Materials and Accessories Needed

for Each Participant:
• Drive center
• Ball-bearing tail center
• 3/4" spindle roughing gouge
• 3/8" spindle gouge
• Abrasive paper in various grits
• Finish such as friction polish or oil
• Finish rag

Advanced Preparation Needed by the Instructor:

• Prepare the turning blanks by cutting straight grained wood ap-
proximately 2" x 2" x 3.5" long.

OVER
 Procedure

1. Mount the turning blank on the lathe. Use a drive center in

the headstock and a ball-bearing tail center in the tailstock.

2. Remove the square corners. Use a 3/4" spindle roughing

Wooden gouge. A peeling or planing cut works well for this.
Egg 3. Shape the spindle as desired. Rough shaping can be done with
the 3/4" spindle roughing gouge. Finish shaping should be done with
the 3/8' spindle gouge. Work close to each end of the egg but leave
about 1/4" diameter of wood for support during sanding and finishing.

4. Sand the apply finish to the egg.

6. Remove the spindle from the lathe. Turn the wood at each
end of the egg to about 1/8" diameter and about 1/4" long, then
remove the egg from the lathe. Break off the waste wood on each
end or cut it off with a small hand saw.

7. Sand and finish the ends of the egg. Hand sand each end of
the egg and apply finish as needed.

8. Admire your turned wooden egg. It can be the beginning of

the a great collection of turned eggs.
Brief Description and/or Project Strengths:
• Very inexpensive
• Good practice for controlled use of the parting tool

Suggestions for Simple Decoration:

• Decorating with wire burners HANDOUT
• Coloring with dyes and markers

Estimated Time for Instruction: Honey

• 15-20 minutes
Dipper
Estimated Time for Participants to
Complete:
• 20-30 minutes

Project Materials Needed for

Each Participant:
• 1"x1"x7" straight grained wood (cherry, maple)

Tools and Accessories Needed for Each

Participant:
• Drive center
• Ball-bearing tail center
• 3/4" spindle roughing gouge
• 3/8" spindle gouge
• 1/2" parting tool

Materials and Accessories Needed for

Use by the Group:
• Abrasive paper in various grits
• Mineral oil
• Finish rag

Advanced Preparation Needed by the Instructor:

• Prepare the turning blanks by cutting straight grained wood
1" x 1" x approximately 7" long.

OVER
 Procedure for Making the Project:

1. Mount the turning blank on the lathe. Use a drive center in

the headstock and a ball-bearing tail center in the tailstock.

2. Remove the square corners. Use a 3/4" spindle roughing

Honey gouge. A peeling or planing cut works well for this.
Dipper 3. Shape the spindle as desired. Use the 3/8' spindle gouge. Pay
particular attention to the shape at the handle end and dipper end.

4. Cut evenly spaced slots in the dipper end. Use a narrow

parting tool. Leave a center core of about 5/6" diameter.

5. Add wire burn lines or other decoration if desired.

6. Reduce the diameter at both ends to about 1/8". A parting

tool works well for this.

7. Sand the apply finish to the spindle as desired. The mineral

oil finish should be applied while the lathe is stopped. Additional
coats should be added after the project has been removed from the
lathe.

8. Remove the spindle from the lathe. Finish parting off and
hand sand each end.
Brief Description of the Project and/or
Project Strengths:
• Fun to make and fun to use
• Inexpensive
• This is a simple handle into which is inserted the metal part of the
scoop
HANDOUT
Suggestions for Simple Decoration:
• Decorating with wire burners
Ice Cream
Scoop
Estimated Time for Instruction:
• 15 to 20 minutes

Estimated Time for Participants to

Complete:
• 20 to 30 minutes

Project Materials Needed for

Each Participant:
• An inexpensive plastic handled ice cream scoop.
These are usually available at Target, Wal-Mart
or similar stores and are usually under $3.
• 2"x2"x5" dry straight grain wood like cherry or
walnut

Tools and Accessories Needed for Each

Participant:
• Jacobs chuck with 3/8” bit (this size may vary
depending on the tang size of the scoop)
• Drive center
• 3/4” spindle roughing gouge
• Parting tool
• 3/8” spindle gouge
• Ruler (6” or 12”)
• Pencil or awl
• Small handsaw (such as a coping or Japanese pull saw)
• Ice cream and ice cream cones

Materials and Accessories Needed for Use by the Group:

• Epoxy
• Sandpaper in assorted grits
• Walnut oil or mineral oil finish
• Finish rag

Advanced Preparation Needed by the Instructor:

• Take the purchased ice cream scoop and break the plastic handle
off. This is best done with a hammer, laying the scoop on a firm
surface and giving it a sharp rap with the hammer.

OVER
 Procedure for Making the Project:

1. Have the student mark the centers of the block of wood using a
ruler and pencil or awl.

2. Mount the turning blank on the lathe. Use a drive center in

Ice Cream the headstock and use a ball-bearing tail center in the tailstock.
Scoop 3. Remove the square corners. Use a 3/4" spindle roughing
Handle gouge. A peeling or planing cut works well for this.

4. Shape the handle as desired. Rough shaping can be done with

the 3/4" spindle roughing gouge. Finish shaping and detailing should
be done with the 3/8' spindle gouge.

5. Sand the apply finish to the spindle as desired. The first

coat of finish should be applied while the lathe is stopped.

5. Drill the hole for the ice cream scoop. Place the Jacobs style
chuck in the headstock with the appropriate bit. Position the wood
with one end against the bit, the other held with the tailstock. Run
the lathe at a moderate to slow speed (under 700 rpm). Drilling
commences when you grip the spinning handle and rotate the tail-
stock handwheel. If working with kids, the instructor should do the
drilling. If working with a more experienced student, the instructor
may do the drilling with the student (one grips the piece while the
other cranks the handwheel).

6. Remove the spindle from the lathe and with a small handsaw
cut off the waste area. Hand sand as needed.

7. Glue the ice cream scoop into the turned handle. Mix
about a tablespoon of epoxy and place it down into the opening of
the handle. Insert the tang into the hole, being sure to bring the
shoulder of the scoop flush against the wood. Set the handle aside
in an upright position for the epoxy to dry.

8. After the epoxy has set, apply an oil finish.

9. After the epoxy has had sufficient time to cure, dip yourself a
refreshing scoop if ice cream.
Brief Description of the Project and/or
Project Strengths:
• A very useful project
• A bit more challenging as it requires fitting a metal ferrule

Suggestions for Simple Decoration: HANDOUT

• Decorating with wire burners

Estimated Time for Instruction:

Combination
• 20 to 30 minutes Screwdriver
Estimated Time for Participants to Complete:
• 30 to 50 minutes

Project Materials Needed for Each Participant:

• Purchase a 6-in-1 combination screwdriver with
plastic handle OR one of the available commercial kits
(such as the Rockler kit, available at 1-800-279-4441
or www.rockler.com)
• If using the plastic handled screwdriver as the source,
you will need a metal ferrule. A 1” copper coupling,
cut in half to create two ferrules works well.
• 2" x 2" x 5" dry, straight grained hardwood (cherry,
maple, ash, walnut)

Tools and Accessories Needed for Each

Participant:
• Drive center
• Ball-bearing tail center
• 3/4" spindle roughing gouge
• 3/8" spindle gouge
• Parting tool
• Jacobs style chuck
• 5/8” and 7/16” drill bits (these sizes will vary if you cut apart a
purchased screwdriver)
• 6" or 12” ruler
• Pencil or awl

Materials and Accessories Needed for Use by the Group:

• Epoxy
• Small handsaw (coping or Japanese pull saw)
• Abrasive paper in various grits
• Finish such as tung oil, walnut oil, or mineral oil
• Finish rag

Advanced Preparation Needed by the Instructor:

• If you are using a purchased screwdriver, place the handle in a vise and
saw out the metal insert. This can be done easily done with a hacksaw.
Cut on all four sides, then pull out the insert with pliers.
• To ensure that the metal inserts are well centered you will need to drill a
pilot hole. Measure the diameter of the insert (it is 5/8” for the Rockler
kit) and either drill, freehand with an electric power drill or on a drill

OVER
 press, to a depth of approximately 1”. Some turners prefer to do the
entire drilling first—either at the drill press or on the lathe. In teaching,
you will probably want to bring pre-drilled blanks to the class.
• Use a live center with a cone center to go inside of the drilled hole, or
simply turn a wood “cork” to fit the hole. (This is a tapered plug about
1” in length, smaller than the hole at one end and larger at the other.)
Combination
Screwdriver Procedure for Making the Project:
1. Mount the turning blank on the lathe. The end with the drilled hole
should be toward the tailstock. Use a drive center in the headstock centered
in the bottom of the drilled hole. Use a ball bearing cone center in the
tailstock.
2. Remove the square corners. Use a 3/4" spindle roughing gouge. A
peeling or planing cut works well for this.

3. Fit the ferrule. The first critical turning step is to fit the ferrule. Use a
parting tool to establish the diameter and length needed for the ferrule. Use
a second ferrule to drive the piece onto the wood. (Ideally it should be a
friction fit, but if a student slightly undersizes the wood, you can glue the
ferrule on with epoxy.)

4. Establish the critical dimensions. First, if using the kit, leave plenty of
wood in the metal insert region that holds the shaft and bits (about 1.5” in
length). Measure the length of the shaft with attached bit that will go into
the handle. This will determine a minimum length of the overall handle (for
the kit, it is 4”).

5. Shape the spindle as desired. With the critical dimensions in mind,

shape the handle. Encourage a discussion and even a drawing of a
proposed shape with the students. Rough shaping can be done with the
3/4" spindle roughing gouge. Finish shaping and detailing should be done
with the 3/8' spindle gouge.

6. Sand the spindle as needed.

7. Additional drilling. If further drilling is required, mount the Jacobs style

chuck in the headstock and complete the drilling. Either drill the 5/8” the
entire depth (about 4”) or only for the length of the metal insert (1 9/16”)
and the remaining depth with a 7/16” bit. Be especially mindful of drilling
accurately, especially for the area that will hold the metal insert.

6. Remove the spindle from the lathe and cut off the waste material on
the end of the handle. Hand sand the end of the spindle as needed.

7. Epoxy the metal insert into the opening. Place a light coating of
epoxy evenly inside the hole to a depth of about 1”. If using the kit be sure
the two grooves (that accept the shaft with bits) are pointing outwards of the
hole. You might find it necessary to run the 7/16” bit through the inside of
the insert to remove any glue and to be sure the shaft and bit with go easily
into the handle.

8. Apply the finish of your choice. Tung oil or walnut oil work well.

9. Once the epoxy has set your screwdriver is ready to use.

Brief Description of the Project and/or Project Strengths:
• An easy, quick project
• Requires minimal tooling
• Fun to use
• Inexpensive, requiring very little wood

Suggestions for Simple Decoration: HANDOUT

• Decorating with wire burners
• Coloring with dyes and markers
Finger
Estimated Time for Instruction:
• 10 to 15 minutes
Spinning
Top
Estimated Time for Participants to Complete:
• 15 to 25 minutes

Project Materials Needed for Each Participant:

• 1.5" x 1.5" x 5" dry hardwood cut with parallel ends

Tools and Accessories Needed for Each Participant:

• Drive center
• Ball-bearing tail center
• 3/4" spindle roughing gouge
• 3/8" spindle gouge
• Parting tool

Materials and Accessories Needed for

Use by the Group:
• Center punch
• Mallet
• Abrasive paper in various grits
• Friction polish
• Finish rag

Advanced Preparation Needed by the

Instructor:
• Prepare the turning blanks by cutting straight grained wood
1.5" x 1.5" x approximately 5" long.

Procedure

1. Mount the turning blank on the lathe. Draw diagonal lines

across the ends of block to find the center, then mark the center with
a punch. Mount the wood between the drive center in the headstock
and a ball bearing tail center in the tailstock.

2. Remove the square corners. Set the lathe speed at about

1500 RPM. Starting approximately 2" from tailstock, and using a
spindle roughing gouge, rough turn the blank into a cylinder shape.
Move the spindle roughing gouge towards the tailstock. Make sure
you explain the reason for the direction of cut and placement of tool
rest. The tool rest should allow roughing gouge to cut slightly above
center.
OVER
 3. Layout the sections of the top. While the lathe is running,
Finger mark a pencil line on the cylinder approximately ¾ inch from tailstock
Spinning Top end.

4. Turn a Morse taper to fit in the headstock. Using a Morse

taper drive center as a guide, shape a taper from the line on the tail-
stock end of the blank to the headstock end. This taper should match
the Morse taper used in headstock. This can be done easily by trial
and error, or use calipers for measurements and a parting tool. When
the taper is formed check the fit into headstock spindle. It should fit
snug with at least ½ inch of contact into spindle.
Spinning top
blank with 5. Mount the top blank for final turning. Bring the tailstock
turned Morse forward and align the live center with the center point of the blank.
taper secured in Knock out the drive center from headstock spindle and snug the taper
headstock of the cylinder into the spindle. Back off the tailstock and give a few
quick raps with a mallet to better secure the block. Turn on lathe and
check for trueness of cylinder, re-cut true cylinder if needed. Next,
mark a line on cylinder ½" up from tailstock end.

NOTE: An alternative method for holding small projects is to use a

faceplate with a glue block attached. Workpieces can be fastened to
the glue block with CA glue or regular wood glue. This can be safer
than a chuck and sometimes more secure. The tailstock may be
brought up for extra support.

6. Form the base of the top. Using the spindle roughing gouge
make downhill cuts to rough form base of the top.
Alternative
chucking method —
7. Turn the handle. Mark a pencil line ⅜" above the tapered base.
turning block glued
Using a ⅜"spindle gouge cut downhill toward the headstock and form
to waste wood
a vee groove to ¼" diameter. Mark a pencil line 1” above the groove
which is attached
and using a spindle roughing gouge tilted slightly toward tailstock, cut
to the faceplate
a tapered handle to intersect the v groove. Continue to taper this
handle until you have a pleasing proportion to the tapered base of the
spinning top.

8. Make the finish cuts and forming the tip. Cut a slight crown on
top of the handle. Back off the tailstock and using light cuts with 3/8
spindle gouge form a sharp point on the end of the base. The angle to
this cut may be 45 degrees or greater. This is the tip which the top
spins on.

9. Sanding the top as needed. Sand any sharp edges or round

over any desired surfaces except the very tip of the base.

10. Apply the finish. Friction polish applied while the lathe is
rotating works well.

11. Remove the top from the lathe. Separate the top from block
using a pull saw and sand off any nub, or separate it using a 3/8 inch
spindle gouge.

12. Give it a spin. The top should be ready to use.