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Photography Posing Secrets by Malcolm Boone

Photography Posing Secrets is a fantastic guide written by Malcolm Boone revealing some of the most powerful techniques you can apply to your photography for instant approval. A quick look at the contents will tell you just what is in the book: -SEVEN TIPS FOR BETTER PORTRAITS -THE IDEAL KIT -TYPES OF PORTRAIT -FORMAL PORTRAITS -LIFESTYLE PORTRAITS -ENVIRONMENTAL PORTRAITS -GROUP SHOTS -BABIES AND CHILDREN -POSING YOUR MODEL -IMPROVE YOUR PORTRAITS WITH PHOTOSHOP -PRINTING YOUR PORTRAITS -USING PHOTOSHOP -USING A PHOTO LAB -ALTERNATIVE PRESENTATION METHODS -FRAMING Please download this free book and recommend it to all your photography friends.

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Geoff Beattie
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© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
50% found this document useful (2 votes)
1K views25 pages

Photography Posing Secrets by Malcolm Boone

Photography Posing Secrets is a fantastic guide written by Malcolm Boone revealing some of the most powerful techniques you can apply to your photography for instant approval. A quick look at the contents will tell you just what is in the book: -SEVEN TIPS FOR BETTER PORTRAITS -THE IDEAL KIT -TYPES OF PORTRAIT -FORMAL PORTRAITS -LIFESTYLE PORTRAITS -ENVIRONMENTAL PORTRAITS -GROUP SHOTS -BABIES AND CHILDREN -POSING YOUR MODEL -IMPROVE YOUR PORTRAITS WITH PHOTOSHOP -PRINTING YOUR PORTRAITS -USING PHOTOSHOP -USING A PHOTO LAB -ALTERNATIVE PRESENTATION METHODS -FRAMING Please download this free book and recommend it to all your photography friends.

Uploaded by

Geoff Beattie
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 25

Secrets of Better

Portraits
By

Malcolm Boone

http://www.photographyposingsecrets.com

Proudly brought to you


by Geoff Beattie
http://www.creativephotoshop.co.uk/
Secrets of Better Portraits

Please Read This First

You do have permission to pass this book on to others as long as you


a) do not change the contents
b) do not misrepresent the book
c) do not attempt to distribute the book using SPAM.

Important Disclaimer

The author, publishers and marketers of this information disclaim any


loss or liability, either directly or indirectly as a consequence of applying
the information presented herein, or in regard to the use and application
of said information. No guarantee is given, either expressed or implied, in
regard to the merchantability, accuracy, or acceptability of the
information.

Although the ideas given in this book are offered in good faith and after
extensive research, no responsibility can be accepted for any
consequences arising out of the use of this book or from any inaccuracies,
omissions or errors.

Reading beyond this point constitutes acceptance of the above.

Secrets of Better Portraits is © 2010 Malcolm Boone

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Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION......................................................................................4
SEVEN TIPS FOR BETTER PORTRAITS..........................................5
THE IDEAL KIT........................................................................................7
TYPES OF PORTRAIT ...........................................................................9
FORMAL PORTRAITS.................................................................................9
LIFESTYLE PORTRAITS ............................................................................10
ENVIRONMENTAL PORTRAITS .................................................................11
GROUP SHOTS .....................................................................................12
BABIES AND CHILDREN....................................................................15
POSING YOUR MODEL.......................................................................17
IMPROVE YOUR PORTRAITS WITH PHOTOSHOP.....................19
PRINTING YOUR PORTRAITS ..........................................................21
USING PHOTOSHOP.................................................................................21
USING A PHOTO LAB ..............................................................................22
ALTERNATIVE PRESENTATION METHODS ..............................................23
FRAMING ................................................................................................24

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Introduction

There are over six billion people in the world. Each could be a subject for
a portrait photographer. Of all the photographs taken each day, the vast
majority include images of people. Yet only a small fraction of these are
true portraits.

A good portrait is described as a picture with a quality image that


captures both the physical features and character of the subject. To
produce a good portrait you have to be familiar with your camera and the
other equipment you need to produce a good image. You have to know
the techniques of producing a good portrait. You have to be able to
interact with people so that they will reveal some aspect of their character
for the camera.

This may suggest that only photographers with a long list of skills and
abilities are capable of good portraiture. However, there are some easy
steps any photographer can take to improve the quality and range of their
portraits.

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Seven Tips for Better Portraits

1. If there is not enough light indoors for your portrait shot change
location, wait until it’s brighter, or use professional studio lighting.
Do not use your camera’s pop-up flash as this can destroy
atmosphere. Only use your cameras built in flash for exterior fill-
in.

2. Focus your camera on your subject’s eyes. When people look at a


person, even in a photograph, they tend to look at the eyes. Focus
on the nearest eye when taking a three-quarter shot.

3. Even if your camera is locked to a tripod your stationary subject


can still move. Use at least 1/60sec shutter speed and preferably
1/125sec for a blur-free portrait. If you need a slower shutter speed
either open the aperture or increase the ISO rating.

4. Make sure the background is not too cluttered or busy. The subject
should be the focus of the picture. Keep distractions to a minimum.
Also check that there is nothing behind the subject that could ruin
the shot. No one looks their best with a lampshade apparently
balanced on the top of their head or with a tree growing out of their
shoulder. Also check the background if the subject is holding an
object. I once saw a school textbook photo of a girl holding a test
tube with a distant pupil’s head lined up with the top of the tube.
They don’t really do experiments on shrunken heads do they?

5. Crop the shot above or below body joints. Cropping at neck, knees
or waist looks unnatural. If you are shooting digitally you could

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sort this out with software, but doing it before you press the shutter
button will save pixel memory and time.

6. Unless your subject has to be in the center of the shot try placing
them to one side of the frame. It makes a more interesting picture.

7. The photo shoot should start when the subject is comfortable and at
ease with his or her appearance and surroundings. Never shoot if
the subject is tense or uneasy, because it will reflect in the pictures.
There is no rule that says a conversation should stop when shooting
starts; it can still continue especially if it makes the subject open up
more to the photographer. Remember that the subject does not need
to smile to make the portrait look good. Oftentimes, a thoughtful or
a serious expression is preferred since it reveals more of the
subject's character.

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The Ideal Kit

Firstly let me point out the title of this chapter. We are talking about the
ideal kit for taking portraits. If you use a film camera or a digital compact
you can still produce great results. However a digital SLR gives you
excellent control over depth of field, shutter speeds and ISO settings. This
gives you flexibility in focus and different lighting levels.

Ideally you should have two lenses. One with a focal length of about
50mm is ideal for half and full-length shots. You also want another lens
of focal length 75-135mm for head and shoulders portraits. Please note
these focal lengths are for 35mm film. A digital SLR will have a
converter value. Multiply the focal length by the converter value to get
the focal length you need. The converter value for Minolta, Nikon and
Pentax is x1.5, Olympus is x2, and the converter for Canon cameras
depends on the model, but varies between x1 and x1.6. Essentially you
need a lens between 50mm and 100mm on the zoom after converting.

Most compact cameras have the correct range of focal lengths for
portraiture. If you have a basic point and shoot model with some scene
modes, use the portrait settings and turn the flash off. If you can, switch
your compact to aperture priority and reduce the aperture to the lowest f
number.

A tripod reduces the possibility of camera shake and releases you from
behind the camera. This enables you to move around more, perhaps
stepping forward to adjust your sitter or group, or making your subject
feel more at ease. A tripod also keeps the subject accurately framed while
you adjust lighting, backdrop, or other elements.

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Another piece of useful kit is the reflector. Ideally you want a double-
sided circular 20in collapsible model with white and silver or gold
surfaces to reflect light where you need it. There are stands for clamping
the reflector in place, but the model can hold the reflector if you just need
some light from below for head and shoulder shots. A correctly
positioned model and reflector can make all the difference to your
portraits and are definitely worth the investment.

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Types of Portrait

Whatever type of portrait you are shooting, remember you are in charge.
You should have a particular effect in mind and be able to direct the
subject in terms of background, posing, and props. You should also be
ready with answers if your subject asks about different locations, lighting
effects, clothes and accessories, etc. Show your subject you have thought
this through and you will start gaining their confidence and enable them
to relax a little. Ideally your camera should be set up in advance, or at
least you should have a very good idea of the apertures, shutter speeds
and other technical variables you are going to use so you can concentrate
on arranging the subject.
There are essentially three styles of portrait shot. Each shows something
different about the subject.

Formal Portraits

Usually this is a head and shoulders or half-shot with a simple


background that does not distract you from your subject. Lighting is
usually diffused and hits the subject at about 45 degrees. If you are using
light from a window and it seems too harsh, try placing sheets of tracing
paper over the panes to diffuse the light.

Seat or stand your subject facing to one side of the camera and turn their
head so the face is about three-quarters on. Now have your subject move
their eyes so they look straight into the lens. Set up your camera so it is
focused on the eyes and the shot is cropped just above the head.

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Check that clothing looks right and that jewelry is hanging correctly.
Sometimes clothes pegs are useful for arranging clothing.

If your subject looks a bit tense ask them to breathe out and take the shot
as they relax.

Lifestyle portraits

A lifestyle portrait is usually shot as if the subject it not aware of the


camera’s presence. This candid, reportage look is a fresh, natural
alterative to formally posed shots. They are often taken outdoors with the
subject in casual clothing.

Ideally you need a location to provide a simple background that says


something about the subject. Look at fashion adverts and flick through
clothing catalogues to get some ideas.

Avoid the harsh light of sunny days. Shoot on an overcast day or pose
your subject in the shade. You can control the light by positioning a
reflector outside the shaded area to bounce diffuse light towards your
subject. If you have to shoot when it’s sunny, place your subject in front
of the sun. This means they will not have to squint and if you can position
yourself right you can even achieve rim lighting around their hair. Use a
lens hood to shield your lens and avoid flare.

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Environmental portraits

This style of portrait uses location and props to reveal more about the
subject’s interests, livelihood and attitude. A picture of a teenager
listening to his i-pod, wearing his favorite top and pants while holding his
skateboard tells you much more about him than his formal school photo.

Firstly your subject needs to decide what they want the photograph to
show. Hobbies, pastimes and jobs are topics you can build a shot around.
You can easily take a job related shot without being allowed into their
place of work. Just include what they do, not where they do it.

Next decide how you can use location and props to convey what is
required. Simple often works best. If a job or hobby demands the use of
many pieces of equipment just pick one that can convey the activity.

The environmental shot often has strong eye contact and it is not even
necessary for your subject to be holding the prop. Placed to one side and
defocused, an object can still convey a message.

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Group Shots

Perhaps the most overlooked but critical aspect of taking a group shot is
timing. Not only do you have to keep your subjects enthusiastic and
responsive but you also have to compose and capture the best possible
image. Take a shot too quickly and you don’t give yourself or your
subjects time to prepare, take too long and the boredom or frustration will
show through in the final image.

Plan what you are going to do before the people assemble and let them
know your plan when they arrive. A group shot should capture the
group’s identity and the relationship between its members. If there is a
hierarchy within the group make the senior person the focal point. This
does not necessarily mean putting them in the middle of the group. The
focal point can be nearer the lens, higher than others or to one side. If
there is no senior person you could use a prop that is related to the group
instead. Try to avoid uneven gaps between members of the group. This
can suggest a lack of bonding between some members.

Direct each person courteously, clearly, and with a businesslike pace


before you get your finger on the shutter button. Ensure that the face of
each person is seen clearly and that shadows cast by one member of the
group do not fall across another’s face.

Forewarn them you will take a few shots to account for the ones where
someone blinks, make sure they are all ready and take the shots.

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Try to avoid the obvious when composing a shot. Instead of standing face
on to the camera have your subjects stand side-on and turn their heads to
the camera. Try to arrange them in a crescent instead of a straight line
then pull some people out of the curve to make it less obvious. Consider
introducing different heights by having people stand on different levels of
the landscape, or arrange some sitting, standing, kneeling and even lying
propped up on elbows. Try using the different heights of faces to form a
triangular or ‘M’ shape. Just experiment. Try positioning the camera to
one side of the group or above them.

As well as arranging the group around a prop you can also use props for
your subjects to hold or lean on.

Another thing you can try is to take some shots just before the group is
completely arranged and just after you have finished the last arranged
shot. These can produce more revealing and enjoyable images as the
group relaxes and interacts.

Plan ahead and try to be inventive. It should make the shoot more
enjoyable for you and your subjects, and produce a much more interesting
image.

If a group is big enough it becomes a crowd. The challenge when


photographing a crowd is picking out something of an individual to
prevent the image being one of an anonymous mass of people. Try to
break up the crowd or show a section of people that represents what the
rest of the crowd is doing. Place a small group dancing in the foreground
in a field of revelers; shoot along a row of graduates waiting to collect

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their certificates; shoot down onto a crowd from a high vantage point and
include an unusual costume or banner.

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Babies and Children

Newborn and very young babies should be made comfortable on a safe,


flat surface or cradled by a parent. Use natural light for a softer result. If
you have to use a flash bounce it off a reflector or ceiling.

Tiny feet and hands are often the subject of some of the first pictures of a
baby. Try to give a sense of scale by having an adult hand in the same
shot.

As the child grows you will need to be familiar with your camera and
keep it nearby so it is quickly available for a number of ‘firsts’. These
sitting, crawling, wobbly first step shots can be taken at low level to give
a new perspective. If possible have the camera ready the first time your
child sees their reflection in a mirror, or realizes that arm waving around
in front of them is under their control. You can also take shots that show a
typical behavior like sucking fingers, or sleeping in a certain position.

As children grow they become aware of the camera but can still be
spontaneous and uninhibited. They may be able to follow simple posing
instructions, but some of the best shots come from everyday situations
like dressing, playing and eating. Many pictures are taken of special
outings and events, but don’t forget the trip to the shops, getting the hair
cut or watching TV. Each can capture different emotions and aspects of
their lives.

Most childhood shots tend to focus on the joys of being young, but don’t
be reluctant to capture those moments of frustration, irritation and tears.

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Also don’t try to force a shy child to show their face. A picture of them
hiding behind their hands is an honest image of their character.

Older children may be more willing to dress up and show off for the
camera. They will make more friendships and become involved in team
or group activities. These give more opportunities for photography.

If you want to freeze the action as the child runs about use a shutter speed
of 1/125sec or 1/250sec. Shots of children running about indoors will also
mean a wide aperture. Slower shutter speeds will blur the subject and
convey the motion of the child.

Many teenagers would do almost anything to avoid posing for a camera


held by their parent, but are much more willing if a friend is wielding the
equipment.

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Posing Your Model

The first step to posing a model is to plan before they arrive at the
location or studio. You must have in mind the style of portrait you want
and the mood of the shot. Think of your model as a shadow or silhouette.
If you have a chance to spend some time practicing poses try shooting
against a bright background so the images produced are silhouettes. With
figures devoid of any surface detail it is easier to concentrate on the
positioning of the torso, limbs, head, etc.

Imagine a line running from the top of the head to the tip of one foot. If
you want a pose to express strength, masculinity, or regality it is best to
pose the model so the line is straight. For an impression of femininity and
grace, curve the body so the line forms a C shape.

Having decided on the general shape the body is to make you need to
consider the legs. Often a standing pose will require one leg (known as
the basic leg) to take more of the body’s weight than the other. Position
this leg first, and then you can position the foot of the other leg at any
point around the basic leg, rather like positioning the minute hand of a
clock. The positioning of this leg can suggest many qualities including
grace, movement, strength, and confidence.

Having positioned the legs and feet you need to consider the arms and
hands, then the head and lastly the expression of the face.

People are probably more aware of the positioning of their limbs when
standing in front of a camera than at any other time. A prop is a good way

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to position the limbs naturally. Try a jacket slung over a shoulder, or a


table or chair to lean on.

If you want your subject seated, give some thought to the type of chair to
use. Low chairs raise the knees and hide the figure. High seats and stools
allow a clear view of the torso and encourage correct posture. Armrests
provide a surface for the forearms or elbows to rest on.

One way to get posing ideas is simply to look at adverts, magazines and
catalogues that use models. Look at how the different aspects of the body
are used to convey certain moods and qualities. Pick the ones that impress
you most, get hold of a volunteer model and see if you can reproduce, and
then vary, the images you have selected.

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Improve Your Portraits with Photoshop

There is not a camera on the market that is ideal for every type of shot.
The great thing about digital cameras is the software that can address this
problem. The most popular image manipulation software is Photoshop.
There are so many things this software can do that there are books,
manuals and even workshops dedicated to revealing its capabilities. Here
I am going to look at four basic ways you can use Photoshop to improve a
digital portrait.

I mentioned earlier that cropping a shot before pressing the shutter button
could save you time, but the Photoshop Crop tool can give you further
variations to your image. With the image on-screen, hit the crop icon or C
on the keyboard to select the Crop tool. Click and drag the tool to crop
the image. Once you have cropped the image the unwanted portion is
usually hidden behind a black area. However, if you want to see what you
have not selected you can change the opacity of the shield area by
selecting the opacity on the top tool bar and use the drop down slider to
select opacity of about eighty per cent. To rotate the cropped area simply
click near a corner handle and move the mouse to rotate. The rotation will
happen about the target symbol in the center of the cropped area, but you
can move this symbol by simply clicking and dragging. Now the crop
will rotate about the symbol’s new location. These simple techniques can
make a great difference to the image. However, if you do not like the
changes you have made and want to return to the original image, just hit
the Esc key on the keyboard.

You can adjust the range of tones in your image by hitting Ctrl+L to open
the Levels palette. This displays the Histogram for the picture. This

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shows the number of black and white pixels in your picture, as well as the
number of pixels between those two colors. To improve the tone of your
picture, move the outside black and white pointers to below the edges of
the histogram. You may notice the darker areas of your picture becoming
darker and the lighter areas lighter. Then move the middle slider to
lighten or darken the mid-tones in the picture.

If you don’t like what your changes have produced move the pointer over
the palette’s Cancel button and press Alt on the keyboard. The Cancel
button changes to a Reset button, which you can press to undo the
changes you have made.

You can also adjust the color balance from the Levels palette. Select the
middle eyedropper icon and click on any part of your image. For best
results click on a neutral gray in the image. Check out any shadows in
your picture if such an area is not obvious. Click around in your image
until you find a balance you like, and then click OK. This is an easy way
to adjust the skin tone of your model.

Lastly, try changing the tone of your picture to see how you can adjust
the character of the portrait. Hit Ctrl+U to open the Hue/Saturation
palette. Tick the Colorize box and move the Hue and Saturation sliders to
obtain different effects. To get an idea of what is possible type in the
following: 238 Hue and 25 Sat will give you a cool blue tone effect,
while 30 Hue and 25 Sat will produce a warm sepia tone.

Select an image and just try some of the techniques I have mentioned.
It’ll be fun and you may find something you’ll want to use more often to
enhance your shots.
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Printing Your Portraits

Using Photoshop

What use is a portrait stored as a string of binary code? You want a


classy, ready to frame print that your subject can share and you can
proudly add to your portfolio.

Once you are happy with the Photoshop image, go to the File menu, then
hit New and create a document that matches your paper size at 240-300
pixels per inch. Make sure Contents is set at White. Click on the portrait
and use the Move tool to drag it onto the canvas while holding down the
Shift key. This will place the image in the center.

If you need to enlarge or reduce the image size, press Ctrl+T then drag a
corner handle while holding down Alt+Shift until you are happy with the
resizing.

Apply a thin black border to your image to improve its appearance. Open
the Window menu and select Layers. Click on the Create a New Layer
icon. Hold down the Ctrl key and click on the layer that has the portrait.
Select D to set the foreground layer to black. Then go to Edit, then Stroke
in the dialog box. Set Width to 10 or 12 px and set Location to Inside.
Click OK and then Ctrl+D. You can compare the image with and without
the border by clicking the ‘eye’ icon. If you want to resize the image and
border click the link icon beside the eye icon and follow the resizing
instructions above.

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As a final visual check before printing, hit Enter and the software will
show you a print preview. The last thing to check before printing is the
quality of your paper. Make sure it is between 280 and 290 gsm.

Using a Photo Lab

But is printing your own the cheapest option? Many large chains have
jumped into the printing market, and this competition has been reducing
prices. A typical 4x6 print from a big chain is cheaper than the retail cost
of the do-it-yourself paper that the same chain sells in their photography
center. And at home you still have to pay for the ink!

Here are 6 things to consider when getting a photo lab to print your
digital pictures.

1. Price. All the major players have priced their 4x6 size very
competitively. The larger sizes though, like 5x7 or 8x10, are
usually higher in cost than you can do it for at home.

2. Drop off. Can you upload your digital pictures to them via the
internet (very convenient) or do you have to deliver them on a
floppy or CD?

3. Delivery. Does your photo lab let you pick them up in the store, or
do you have to wait for the mailman or courier? Picking them up at
the store should be a no-cost option. If you pick them up, is the
location easy to get in and out of?

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4. Timing. How fast do they work? One photo lab may have a
reputation for having most orders ready in one business day, while
another may be a bit cheaper, but takes a week.

5. Quality. You may have to talk to relatives, friends, and co-workers


about this one. Find others who have already tried various printers.
Find out if the photo lab will refuse to print a picture with too law a
resolution. This should assure you of a quality print.

6. A standard picture for a photo album is 4x6 in size. That is a ratio


of 1.5. Most new cameras have a ratio of 1.33! What happens if
you send a 1.33 picture to a photo lab and ask for a 4x6? They crop
part of the picture you took, making it shorter on its longest side.
You may want the part they cut off! The best internet upload
systems for photo labs allow you to indicate what can be cropped.
Alternatively, use an image manipulation program to make the
digital picture the correct size and ratio before uploading.

Alternative Presentation Methods

As technology has progressed a variety of alternative ways to display


photographs have developed. Your subjects may want to attach their
portraits to an email to relatives or friends on the other side of the world.
They may want to view the pictures on their TV. They may even want
their images uploaded to a family website, or saved to CD for viewing on
their PC or laptop.

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Framing

A correctly selected frame can enhance a picture. The most common


frames are made of wood, and often unpainted. Black frames can work
well with black and white photography. Metal frames work well if they
match a color in the photograph.

If you are going to frame a picture it always pays to consider using a


photo-matt too. This will add depth and can emphasize colors in your
image if chosen correctly. The best effect will be achieved by
considering the photo, frame and matt together.

When it comes to selecting color combinations try to imagine the colors


of a rainbow. These are, in order, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo,
and violet. Now imagine these colors pulled round to form a circle. The
colors that work best will be opposite each other on the circle. So yellow
works well with blue, green works with red, and so on.

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Also by Malcolm Boone

Posing Secrets – The


Photographer’s Essential
Guide Vol. 1
Take your portraiture to another level. In this 120-page book Malcolm
Boone shows you how to produce the right pose every time. He explains
how to focus on the body to aid posing and gives you the key to
duplicating or creating any pose. This practical resource for creative
posing will quickly show you clear and comprehensive steps to produce
and communicate a perfect pose for any situation.

www.PhotographyPosingSecrets.com

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