GAP INC.

PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS

REVISION DATE: DECEMBER 18, 2009

TABLE OF CONTENTS
WOVEN (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (W-A) .................................................................................................................................. 1
a(W-A) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; BELT LOOP ATTACH; SNAP/UNSNAP; BUTTON ATTACH .......................................................................................
1 (W-A) SNAP ATTACH; SMALL PARTS ATTACH; DURABILITY TO REPEATED LAUNDER ..................................................................................................................
2 (W-A) DURABILITY TO REPEATED DRY CLEAN; TOP STOP ATTACH FOR ZIPPERS .........................................................................................................................
3 (W-A) GENERAL APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDER; TORQUE ..........................................................................................................................................................
4 (W-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ...................................................................................................................................................................................................
5 (W-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEAN; TENSILE STRENGTH; TEAR STRENGTH ..............................................................................................................
6 (W-A) SEAM SLIPPAGE; SEAM STRENGTH; PILE RETENTION; ABRASION; PILLING; PH; STRETCH & RECOVERY ...........................................................................
7 (W-A) C/F TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO ACCELERATED LAUNDER .....................................................................
8 (W-A) C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRATION; C/F TO BLEACH ......................................................................................................................................................
9
(W-A) C/F TO WATER; C/F TO BURNT GAS FUMES; C/F TO POOL WATER; C/F TO SEA WATER; C/F TO OZONE........................................................................ 10
WOVEN (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (W-C) .......................................................................................................................... 11
(W-C) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; BELT LOOP ATTACH; SNAP/UNSNAP .................................................................................................................. 11
(W-C) GENERAL APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDER; TORQUE ........................................................................................................................................................ 12
(W-C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 13
(W-C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEAN; TENSILE STRENGTH; TEAR STRENGTH ............................................................................................................ 14
(W-C) SEAM SLIPPAGE; SEAM STRENGTH; PILE RETENTION; ABRASION; PILLING; PH; STRETCH & RECOVERY ......................................................................... 15
(W-C) C/F TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO ACCELERATED LAUNDER ................................................................... 16
(W-C) C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRATION; C/F TO BLEACH .................................................................................................................................................... 17
(W-C) C/F TO WATER; C/F TO BURNT GAS FUMES; C/F TO POOL WATER; C/F TO SEA WATER; C/F TO OZONE ........................................................................ 18
ADDENDUM TO WOVEN ADULTS AND WOVEN CHILDREN’S PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS (W-ADD) ........................................................................................... 19
(W-ADD) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS ................................................................................................................................................................... 19
(W-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS (FABRICS 1100 THROUGH 1130) .............................................................................................................................. 20
(W-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS (FABRICS 1140 THROUGH 1260) .............................................................................................................................. 21
(W-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS (FABRICS 1270 THROUGH 3020) .............................................................................................................................. 22
(W-ADD) TENSILE STRENGTH SPECIFICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1100 – 1151) ....................................................................................................... 23
(W-ADD) TENSILE STRENGTH SPECIFICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1170 – 3020) ....................................................................................................... 24
(W-ADD) TENSILE STRENGTH SPECIFICATIONS BY GARMENT GROUP ....................................................................................................................................... 25
(W-ADD) TEAR STRENGTH SPECIFICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1100 – 1151) ........................................................................................................... 26
(W-ADD) TEAR STRENGTH SPECIFICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1170 – 3020) ........................................................................................................... 27
(W-ADD) TEAR STRENGTH SPECIFICATIONS BY GARMENT GROUP............................................................................................................................................ 28
(W-ADD) SEAM SLIPPAGE SPECIFICATIONS BY FABRIC & GARMENT GROUP ............................................................................................................................ 29
(W-ADD) SEAM STRENGTH SPECIFICATION FOR FABRIC & GARMENT ...................................................................................................................................... 30

i Contents: Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
DENIM (ADULT) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (D-A) ..................................................................................................................................... 31
(D-A) FABRIC WEIGHT; FABRIC CONSTRUCTION; PH; SKEW MOVEMENT; TORQUE; GENERAL APPEARANCE; DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ................................. 31
(D-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; DURABILITY ............................................................................................................................................................................. 32
(D-A) STRETCH & RECOVERY; SEAMS; POCKETS; SNAPS; BUTTONS; SMALL PARTS ...................................................................................................................
33 (D-A) TENSILE & TEAR FOR FABRIC STAGE .................................................................................................................................................................................
35 (D-A) TENSILE & TEAR FOR GARMENT STAGE, SEAM STRENGTH, PACK POCKET ATTACHMENT STRENGTH
............................................................................. 36
(D-A) COLORFASTNESS PROPERTIES .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 37
(D-A) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE FOR ADULT’S DENIM ................................................................................................................................................................. 38
(D-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 38
DENIM (CHILDREN) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (D-C) ................................................................................................................................ 39
(D-C) FABRIC WEIGHT; FABRIC CONSTRUCTION; PH; SKEW MOVEMENT; TORQUE; GENERAL APPEARANCE; DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ................................. 39
(D-C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; STRETCH & RECOVERY; SEAM STRENGTH; POCKET ATTACH; BELT LOOP ATTACH; SNAPS ..................................................... 40
(D-C) DURABILITY TO REPEATED LAUNDER OR DRY CLEAN ....................................................................................................................................................... 41
(D-C) TENSILE & TEAR FOR FABRIC STAGE ................................................................................................................................................................................. 42
(D-C) TENSILE & TEAR FOR GARMENT STAGE ............................................................................................................................................................................ 43
(D-C) COLORFASTNESS PROPERTIES ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 44
(D-C) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE FOR CHILDREN’S DENIM ............................................................................................................................................................ 45
(D-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 45
KNIT (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (K-A) ..................................................................................................................................... 46
(K-A) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; PH; TORQUE ......................................................................................................................................................... 46
(K-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 47
(K-A) GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO ACCELERATED LAUNDERING .................................................................................................................... 48
(K-A) COLORFASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING, BLEACH, & PERSPIRATION ...................................................................................................................................... 49
(K-A) COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT, CROCKING, & WATER ........................................................................................................................................................... 50
(K-A) COLORFASTNESS TO FUMES, OZONE, POOL WATER, & SEA WATER; BURSTING STRENGTH ............................................................................................ 51
(K-A) PILLING; PILE RETENTION; STRETCH AND RECOVERY ........................................................................................................................................................ 52
(K-A) SEAM STRETCH; ATTACHMENT STRENGTH FOR POCKETS, BELT LOOPS, BUTTONS, SNAPS, & SMALL PARTS; SNAP/UNSNAP ........................................ 53
KNIT (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (K-C) ............................................................................................................................... 54
(K-C) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; PH; TORQUE ......................................................................................................................................................... 54
(K-C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 55
(K-C) GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO ACCELERATED LAUNDERING ..................................................................................................................... 56
(K-C) COLORFASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING, BLEACH, & PERSPIRATION ...................................................................................................................................... 57
(K-C) COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT, CROCKING, & WATER ........................................................................................................................................................... 58
(K-C) COLORFASTNESS TO FUMES, OZONE, POOL WATER, & SEA WATER; BURSTING STRENGTH ............................................................................................ 59
(K-C) PILLING; PILE RETENTION; STRETCH AND RECOVERY ........................................................................................................................................................ 60
(K-C) SEAM STRETCH; ATTACHMENT STRENGTH FOR POCKETS & BELT LOOPS; SNAP/UNSNAP ............................................................................................... 61

ii Contents: Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
ADDENDUM TO KNIT ADULT’S AND KNIT CHILDREN’S PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS (K-ADD) ...................................................................................................... 62
(K-ADD) ADULT AND CHILDREN’S KNITS - EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ............................................................................................................................... 62
(K-ADD) ADULT AND CHILDREN’S KNITS - SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS .................................................................................................................................. 63
SWEATER (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (S-A) ............................................................................................................................. 64
(S-A) WEIGHT; APPEARANCE; TORQUE; BUTTONS; SNAPS; SMALL PARTS; PILE; STRETCH; PH ................................................................................................. 64
(S-A) C/F TO ACCEL LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO LIGHT .................................................................................... 65
(S-A) C/F TO LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO GAS FUMES; C/F TO OZONE; C/F TO WATER; C/F TO PERSPIRE ............................................................... 66
(S-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; BURSTING; SEAM STRETCH; PILLING ....................................................................................................................................... 67
SWEATER (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (S-C) ........................................................................................................................ 68
(S-C) WEIGHT; APPEARANCE; TORQUE; BUTTONS; SNAPS; SMALL PARTS; PILE; STRETCH; PH ................................................................................................. 68
(S-C) C/F TO ACCEL LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO LIGHT ..................................................................................... 69
(S-C) C/F TO LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO GAS FUMES; C/F TO OZONE; C/F TO WATER; C/F TO PERSPIRE ................................................................ 70
(S-C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; BURSTING; SEAM STRETCH; PILLING ........................................................................................................................................ 71
ADDENDUM FOR ADULT’S SWEATERS AND CHILDREN’S SWEATERS PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS (S-ADD) ................................................................................. 72
(S-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ................................................................................................................................................................................... 72
(S-ADD) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 72
TRIM PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (TRIM) .................................................................................................................................................. 73
(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ALL TRIMS (1/1) .................................................................................................................................................................................... 73
(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (1/3) .................. 73
(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (2/3) .................. 74
(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (3/3) .................. 75
(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO SNAPS, EYELETS, AND RIVETS ............................................................................................................................................................... 76
(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO BUTTONS & BEADS ............................................................................................................................................................................... 76
(TRIM) BUCKLE, HASP & SLIDER, HOOK & EYE ........................................................................................................................................................................... 77
(TRIM) ZIPPERS ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 78
(TRIM) GARMENT SIZE STICKERS ................................................................................................................................................................................................ 78
(TRIM) POMPOMS AND TASSELS (1/2)....................................................................................................................................................................................... 79
(TRIM) POMPOMS AND TASSELS (2/2)....................................................................................................................................................................................... 80
(TRIM) FILL MATERIAL AND PRE-MADE PADS (PERFORM ON ENCASED FILL ONLY) .................................................................................................................. 80
(TRIM) HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 81
(TRIM) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 81
(TRIM) ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (1/2) .................................................................................................................................................................... 82
(TRIM) ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (2/2) .................................................................................................................................................................... 83
LEATHER (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (L-A) .............................................................................................................................. 84
(L-A) COMPONENT PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS ................................................................................................................................................................ 84
(L-A) WHOLE PRODUCT PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS ............................................................................................................................. 85

iii Contents: Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 (L-A) SPECIAL CLAIM/PURPOSE (ADDITIONAL TESTING REQUESTED DEPENDED ON STYLING) ................................................................................................. 86
(L-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 86
(L-A) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 86
LEATHER (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (L-C) ......................................................................................................................... 87
(L-C) COMPONENT PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS ................................................................................................................................................................. 87
(L-C) WHOLE PRODUCT PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS ............................................................................................................................. 88
(L-C) SPECIAL CLAIM/PURPOSE (ADDITIONAL TESTING REQUESTED DEPENDED ON STYLING) ................................................................................................. 89
(L-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 89
(L-C) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 89
SOCKS (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (SOCK-A) ...........................................................................................................................
90
(SOCK-A) FIT; DURABILITY; SMALL PARTS; CROCKING ............................................................................................................................................................... 90
(SOCK-A) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER .............................................................................................................................. 91
(SOCK-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ................................................................................................................................................................................. 91
(SOCK-A) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS .................................................................................................................................................................................... 91
SOCKS (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (SOCK-C) ...................................................................................................................... 92
(SOCK-C) FIT; DURABILITY; CROCKING ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 92
(SOCK-C) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER .............................................................................................................................. 93
(SOCK-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ................................................................................................................................................................................. 93
(SOCK-C) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 93
TIGHTS (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (TIGHT-A) ......................................................................................................................... 94
(TIGHT-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; PILLING; DURABILITY; CROCKING ..................................................................................................................................... 94
(TIGHT-A) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER; SMALL PARTS ..................................................................................................... 95
(TIGHT-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ................................................................................................................................................................................ 95
(TIGHT-A) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS ................................................................................................................................................................................... 95
TIGHTS (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (TIGHT-C) .................................................................................................................... 96
(TIGHT-C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; PILLING; DURABILITY; CROCKING ..................................................................................................................................... 96
(TIGHT-C) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER ............................................................................................................................. 97
(TIGHT-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ................................................................................................................................................................................ 97
(TIGHT-C) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS ................................................................................................................................................................................... 97
GAP BODY KNITS – ADULT PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (GB-KNIT) ............................................................................................................ 98
(GB-KNIT) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; PH; TORQUE ................................................................................................................................................. 98
(GB-KNIT) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 99
(GB-KNIT) GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT .............................................................................................................................................. 100
(GB-KNIT) GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT, NON-CHLORINE BLEACH, CHLORINE BLEACH, & PERSPIRATION ......................................... 101

iv Contents: Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 (GB-KNIT) COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT, CROCKING, & WATER ................................................................................................................................................. 102
(GB-KNIT) COLORFASTNESS TO FUMES, OZONE, POOL WATER, & SEA WATER; BURSTING STRENGTH .................................................................................. 103
(GB-KNIT) PILLING; PILE RETENTION; STRETCH AND RECOVERY .............................................................................................................................................. 104
(GB-KNIT) SEAM STRETCHABILITY ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 105
(GB-KNIT) GAP BODY - EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS .......................................................................................................................................................... 106
(GB-KNIT) GAP BODY KNITS - SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS ................................................................................................................................................... 107
(GB-KNIT) BRA PARAMETERS FOR APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING .................................................................................................................................... 108
GAP BODY TRIM PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (GB-TRIM) ........................................................................................................................ 109
(GB-TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ALL TRIMS (1/1) ............................................................................................................................................................................. 109
(GB-TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (1/2) .......... 110
(GB-TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (2/2) .......... 111
(GB-TRIM) APPLICABLE TO SNAPS, EYELETS, AND RIVETS ........................................................................................................................................................ 112
(GB-TRIM) APPLICABLE TO BUTTONS & BEADS ........................................................................................................................................................................ 113
(GB-TRIM) BUCKLE, HASP & SLIDER, HOOK & EYE ................................................................................................................................................................... 114
(GB-TRIM) ZIPPERS ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 115
(GB-TRIM) GARMENT SIZE STICKERS ........................................................................................................................................................................................
115 (GB-TRIM) POMPOMS AND TASSELS (1/2)
............................................................................................................................................................................... 116
(GB-TRIM) FILL MATERIAL AND PRE-MADE PADS (PERFORM ON ENCASED FILL ONLY) .......................................................................................................... 117
(GB-TRIM) HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS ................................................................................................................................................................................. 117
(GB-TRIM) FUNCTIONAL HOOKS AND CLASPS-METAL, NYLON COATED METAL AND CLEAR NYLON PLASTIC /RINGS AND SLIDES-METAL/NYLON ............... 118
(GB-TRIM) HOOK AND EYE TAPE .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 118
(GB-TRIM) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS ............................................................................................................................................................................. 118
(GB-TRIM) ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (1/2) ............................................................................................................................................................ 119
(GB-TRIM) ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (2/2) ............................................................................................................................................................ 120
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – SCARVES (230) ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 121
(230) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR SCARVES .................................................................................................................................................................... 121
(230) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 124
(230) CARE INSTRUCTIONS ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 124
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – GLOVES (231)......................................................................................................................................................................................... 125
(231) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR GLOVES...................................................................................................................................................................... 125
(231) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE
................................................................................................................................................................................................. 128
(231) CARE INSTRUCTIONS ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 128
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES- HATS (232) .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 129

v Contents: Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 (232) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR HATS (TEXTILE & NON-TEXTILE) ................................................................................................................................ 129
(232) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE
................................................................................................................................................................................................. 132
(232) CARE INSTRUCTIONS ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 132
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – TIES (235 & 236) .................................................................................................................................................................................... 133
(235) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR TIES ............................................................................................................................................................................ 133
(235) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE
................................................................................................................................................................................................. 134 (235) CARE
INSTRUCTIONS ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 134 (236)
CLIPS FOR CLIP-ON NECK TIES ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 135
(236) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 135
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – BIBS (250) .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 136
(250) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR BIBS (FOR INFANTS UNDER 36 MONTHS) ................................................................................................................. 136
(250) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 139
(250) CARE INSTRUCTIONS ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 139
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – SCREEN PRINTS ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 140
(168) SCREEN PRINTS ............................................................................................................................................................................................................... 140
MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 141
SWEATER YARN - GUIDELINES FOR SAMPLING AND PRODUCTION YARN TESTING (280) ........................................................................................................... 142
SPECIAL CLAIMS (SPC) .................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 143
(SPC) ANTI-MICROBIAL CLAIM ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 143
(SPC) UV PROTECTION CLAIM .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 143
(SPC) DELAMINATION .............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 144
(SPC) MOISTURE MANAGEMENT CLAIM .................................................................................................................................................................................. 144
(SPC) ABSORBENCY FOR BATHROBES CLAIM ........................................................................................................................................................................... 145
(SPC) WATER REPELLENCY CLAIM ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 145
(SPC) WATER RESISTANCE CLAIM ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 146
(SPC) STAIN REPELLENT CLAIM (OIL & WATER REPELLENCY) [1 OF 2] ..................................................................................................................................... 146
(SPC) STAIN REPELLENT CLAIM (OIL & WATER REPELLENCY) [2 OF 2] ..................................................................................................................................... 147
(SPC) DURABLE PRESS & WRINKLE FREE CLAIMS ..................................................................................................................................................................... 148
(SPC) FEATHER AND DOWN CLAIMS ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 149
(SPC) WIND RESISTANCE CLAIM ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 150
(SPC) THERMAL TRANSMITTANCE............................................................................................................................................................................................ 150

vi Contents: Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
WOVEN (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (W-A)

(W-A) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; BELT LOOP ATTACH; SNAP/UNSNAP; BUTTON ATTACH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Fabric &
Fabric weight. ASTM D3776 Option C 3  ≥10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 3.0% from claim
Garment
 < 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 5.0% from claim
Pick Glass; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Fabric construction. Fabric ASTM D3775 (2003) 3  ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 3.0% from claim
 < 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 5.0% from claim
Analytical balance; Outside 10% variation, take 2 more readings
Yarn size. Fabric ASTM D 1059 – 2001 2
 Requirement: ± 5.0% from claim
Test one from the side, front and back.
Belt loop attachment strength. Garment ASTM D1683 mod 3  Thread Belt Loops - 13 lbs.
 All other Belt Loops - 25 lbs.
CRE, Test one of each type of patch pocket and seam pockets.
Decorative  10 lbs.
Functional
Pocket attachment strength. Garment GAP INC. S1027 1
 ≤5.0 oz/yd2: 13 lbs.
 >5.0 oz/yd2: 17 lbs.

CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test light duty snaps (12-16Ligne)/Hand
Sewn Snap.
Snaps - snapping/ unsnapping. Garment ASTM D4846 All
Snapping / unsnapping
 2.0 lb. min – 8.0 lb. Max
CRE or Chatillon + Suitable clamping device {record ultimate failure and nature
of failure}
Button attachment strength. Garment GAP INC S1023 All Attachment strength
 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds

1 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

SNAP ATTACH; SMALL PARTS ATTACH; DURABILITY TO REPEATED LAUNDER

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
CRE or SafQ Pulling Tester Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male & female
components) Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
Snap attachment strength. Garment ASTM D7142 Option 2 All
Attachment strength
 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds
CRE or Chatillon. Includes all functional/non-functional trims, including soft
16 CFR 1500 Section 51-53
decorative trim items .
Small parts attachment strength. Garment (Modified) / ASTM F963 All
Attachment strength. Record ultimate failure and nature of failures.
Section 4.6-4.7 & 4.9
 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds
Automatic washer/dryer. Check for durability through 20 wash for
development & production testing. Rate with AATCC evaluation procedure 1
and/or 2
Record results and mount one sample to report.
Color Change
 3.5 min
Self Staining
Durability to repeated laundering.
Garment AATCC 150 All  4.0 min
[Heat transfer & fragile trim.]
Continue washing samples to check for durability through 20
wash cycles during development & production stage.
 Heat transfers that do not detach, lift, or noticeably change in appearance
after the completion of the last required cleaning cycle are considered
acceptable.
 Heat transfers that do not meet
wash requirements are not allowed.

DURABILITY TO REPEATED DRY CLEAN; TOP STOP ATTACH FOR ZIPPERS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

2 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

Professional D.C/Coin Op. Check for durability through 5 dry cleaning cycles
during development, 1 dry cleaning cycle if for Production testing. Dry
Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan
Destination/EU destination. Dry Clean 1 time. Rate with AATCC evaluation
procedure 1 and/or 2. Color Change
 3.5 min
Self Staining
 4.0 min
Durability to repeated dry cleaning.
Garment AATCC 158 All Record results and mount one sample to report.
[Heat transfer & fragile trim.]
Continue dry cleaning additional samples to check for durability through 5 dry
cleaning cycles during development & 1 drycleaning cycle for production
stage.
 Heat transfers that do not detach, lift, or noticeably change in
appearance after the completion of the last required cleaning cycle
are considered acceptable.
 Heat transfers that do not meet dryclean requirements are not
allowed.

Test should be performed regardless of age range. Report individual findings,

not the average. Results should be marked as pass/fail based on the
Top stop attachment strength of open end requirements listed in the Universal Specification.
zippers. Garment GAP INCS1047 3 Fastener Class 1 - 4: 
[Open end zippers only.] 15.0 lbs for 10 seconds
Fastener Class 5 - 10:
 17.0 lbs for 10 seconds

GENERAL APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDER; TORQUE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

3 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product

performance/appearance.
Report all observations inclusive of CF to actual laundering/actual dry
cleaning, rate with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both Fabric &
As per Care label. Garment stages:
General appearance before and after
Fabric &  Color: AATCC Evaluation Color Change:
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Procedures 1 and 2. 1
Garment  Color fabric: 3.5
laundering or 1 dry clean).  Use UV Suppressor to
 Pigment/print/indigo: 3.0
evaluate color change.
Self Staining:
 4.0
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan
destination/EU destination.
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products/Japan destination/EU destination.
Fabric:
Fabric:
 Use AATCC 179
 AATCC 179 - 2004
Fabric & Method 2, Option 3 Garment:
Torque. 1
Garment  Measure side seam displacement; calculate % torque as: [Displacement
Garment
(in.)/garment length (in.)] X 100.
 Manual Measure
Specification for both Fabric & Garment:
 Torque: ≤ 3%

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

4 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

Shrinkage to Laundering, expressed as warp x fill or length x width

Shrinkage: General woven fabrics
 Washed 2.0% x 2.0%
 Non-washed 3.5% x 3.5 %
Shrinkage: Chambray (Rigid )
 5.0% X 5.0%
Shrinkage: Corduroy (100% Cotton)
 4.0% X 4.0%
Shrinkage: Flannel
 Washed : 3.0% X 3.0%
 Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
Shrinkage: Velvet and Terry (Rayon & Cotton without spandex); Seersucker,
Voile & Madras checks
 Washed : 3.0% X 3.0%
Fabric: Fabric:  Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
 AATCC 135 Option 2  3 Each Shrinkage: Silk
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3- Fabric &
(2004) Direction
home laundering. Garment  Washed : 3.0% X 3.0%
Garment Garment  Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
 AATCC 150 - 2003  1 Each Shrinkage: Wool
Direction
 Washed: 3.0% X 3.0%
Shrinkage: Rayon
 Washed: 3.0% X 3.0%
Shrinkage: Linen and Linen Blends
 Washed: 3.0% X 3.0%
 Non-washed : 4.0% X 4.0%
Shrinkage: Stretch Woven With Spandex
 Washed: 3.5% X 3.5%
 Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
Shrinkage: Coated Fabric:
 Non-washed: 3.5% X 3.5%
Maximum allowable growth
 All fabrics & garments: 1.0% x 1.0%

5 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

Lining compatibility to shell (max. allowable deviation in dimensional change)

 All fabrics and garments with lining: 1.0% x 1.0%

6 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEAN; TENSILE STRENGTH; TEAR STRENGTH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Professional D.C./Coin op.; all linings must show compatible shrinkage to shell
fabric ≤1.0%. Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan
Fabric: Destination/EU destination.
 3 Each Shrinkage to Dry cleaning (max) :
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 1-dry Fabric & Direction
AATCC 158  All wovens: 2.0% x 2.0%
clean. Garment Garment:
Lining compatibility to shell (max. allowable deviation in dimensional change)
 1 Each
 All fabrics and garments with lining: 1.0% x 1.0%
Direction
Growth To Dry Cleaning (max.)
 All Wovens: 1.0% x 1.0%
CRE record all and report average.
Tensile strength specification for all woven fabrics
All measurements:  Please refer to the table in the wovens addendum for tensile strength
 ASTM D5034-1995 specifications by fabric type or garment type..
Fabric & (2001) 3 Each All sulfur dyed programs - Perform AATCC -26. Use CRE, record all and report
Tensile strength.
Garment Sulfur dyed program only Direction both the average in lbs and the percentage loss for each direction.
 AATCC 26, procedure  The strength loss of aged specimens should not exceed 20%.
7.1- Oven Test.  Accept if strength of fabric after steam ageing is more than the required
fabric spec even if the % strength. loss is more than 20% Please refer TB #
114a for Sulphur dyed programs.

7 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

Use CRE for fabrics > 10 oz./sq.yd. Report average. Record 5 highest peaks
(eliminate 1st), report average in lbs and percentage loss.
Fabrics ≤ 10 oz Use Elmendorf for fabrics ≤ 10 oz.
Tear strength specifications for all fabrics
 ASTM D 1424- 96 (2004)
 Please refer to the table in the wovens addendum for tensile strength
Fabrics > 10 oz
Fabric & 2 Each specifications by fabric type or garment type.
Tear strength.  ASTM D 2261
Garment Direction All sulfur dyed programs, determine tear strength loss after ageing per AATCC
Sulfur dyed program only
26.
 AATCC 26, procedure
 The strength loss of aged specimens should not exceed 20%.
7.1- Oven Test.
 Accept if strength of fabric after steam ageing is more than the required
fabric spec even if the % strength loss is more than 20% Please refer TB
#114a for Sulphur dyed programs.

8 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

SEAM SLIPPAGE; SEAM STRENGTH; PILE RETENTION; ABRASION; PILLING; PH; STRETCH & RECOVERY

9 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

10 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

C/F TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO ACCELERATED LAUNDER

11 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

12 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRATION; C/F TO BLEACH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Use Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter. Run and report at 10/20 AFU unless otherwise
stated and determine pass/fail based on full duration.
Silk/intimate/lining/pocketing: 5/10 AFU
Indigo : 10/20 AFU
Swim Wear : 10/20 AFU
General ratings at @10 AFU
 Colors: 3.0
 White and Neon: 2.5
General ratings @ 20 AFU
 Color: 3.0
Fabric &  White and Neon: 2.5
Colorfastness to light. AATCC 16-2004 Option 3 1
Garment  Leather: 3.0  Suede: 2.5
Indigo @ 20 AFU
 Rating: 3.5
Swimwear @ 20 AFU
 Rating: 3.5
Definition of “Neon“ colors:
 Refer to colors defined as “Neon“ or “SuperBright” as, for example, can be
found in highlighter felt pens (yellow/lime/pink…), bright children's
clothes, cycling apparel. Do not use neon parameters to evaluate colors
that do not correspond to the above description, even if they have optical
brightener/fluorescent additives.

13 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

Perspir-o-meter: All fabrications

Color change
 Fabric: 3.5
Fabric &  All pigment/print/indigo: 3.0
Colorfastness to perspiration. AATCC 15- 2002 1
Garment Multi-fiber staining
 All: 2.5
Self staining
 All: 4.0 [ Min]
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Fabric & Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Gap S-1003 1
[Except for fabrics with spandex.] Garment  Class 3.5

14 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-A)

C/F TO WATER; C/F TO BURNT GAS FUMES; C/F TO POOL WATER; C/F TO SEA WATER; C/F TO OZONE

Color change
 Fabric: 3.5
 All pigment/print: 3.0
Multi-fiber staining
Fabric &  All: 2.5
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). AATCC 107- 2002 1
Garments Self staining
 All: 4.0 [ Min]
Self-staining required on swimwear, outerwear, lining fabrics and fabric being
used, on color-blocked (multiple fabric), garments only. Also applicable for
yarn-dyed and, printed fabrics
Fume Chamber, white fabrics, 1-cycle.
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes. Fabric &  White fabrics after 1-cycle: 3.5
AATCC 23- 2005 1
[White colors only] Garment "White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been treated
with an optical brightener.
Dry cleaning cylinder. Test on Swimwear only
Color change
Fabric &  Fabric: 3.5
Colorfastness to chlorinated pool water. AATCC 162- 2002 1
Garments  All print: 3.0
Self staining:
 All: 4.0 [ Min]
Perspir-o-meter. Test on Swimwear/beachwear only
Color change
 Fabric: 3.5  Print: 3.0
Colorfastness to sea water. Fabric & Multi-fiber staining
AATCC 106- 2002 1
[Swimwear/beachwear only] Garments  All: 2.5
Self staining
 All: 4.0 [ Min]

15 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

All indigo dyed wovens. 2 Cycles

Fabric &
Colorfastness to ozone. AATCC 109-2005 1 Requirement:
Garments
 3.0 Rating

WOVEN (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (W-C)

(W-C) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; BELT LOOP ATTACH; SNAP/UNSNAP

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Fabric &
Fabric weight. ASTM D3776 3  ≥10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 3.0% from claim
Garment
 < 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 5.0% from claim
Pick Glass; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Fabric construction. Fabric ASTM D3775 (2003) 3  ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 3.0% from claim
 < 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 5.0% from claim
Analytical balance; Outside 10% variation, take 2 more readings
Yarn size. Fabric ASTM D 1059 - 2001 2
 Requirement : ± 5.0% from claim
Test one from the side, front and back.
Belt loop attachment strength. Garment ASTM D1683 mod 3  Thread Belt Loops: 13 lbs.
 All other Belt Loops: 25 lbs.
CRE, Test one of each type of patch pocket and seam pockets.
Decorative  10 lbs.
Functional
Pocket attachment strength. Garment GAP INC. S1027 1
 ≤5.0 oz/yd2: 13 lbs.
 >5.0 oz/yd2: 17 lbs.

16 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test light duty snaps (12-16 Ligne)/Hand
Sewn Snap.
Snaps - snapping/ unsnapping. Garment ASTM D4846 All
Snapping / unsnapping
 2.0 lb. min – 8.0 lb. Max
GENERAL APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDER; TORQUE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
performance/appearance.
Report all observations inclusive of CF to actual laundering/actual dry
cleaning, rate with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both Fabric &
As per Care label. Garment stages:
General appearance before and after
Fabric &  Color: AATCC Evaluation Color Change:
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Procedures 1 and 2. 1
Garment  Color fabric: 3.5
laundering or 1 dry clean).  Use UV Suppressor to
 Pigment/print/indigo: 3.0
evaluate color change.
Self Staining:
 4.0
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan
destination/EU destination.
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products/Japan destination/EU destination.
Fabric:
Fabric:
 Use AATCC 179
 AATCC 179 - 2004
Fabric & Method 2, Option 3 Garment:
Torque. 1
Garment  Measure side seam displacement; calculate % torque as: [Displacement
Garment
(in.)/garment length (in.)] X 100.
 Manual Measure
Specification for both Fabric & Garment:
 Torque: ≤ 3%

17 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

18 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

Shrinkage to Laundering, expressed as warp x fill or length x width

Shrinkage: General woven fabrics
 Washed 2.0% x 2.0%
 Non-washed 3.5% x 3.5 %
Shrinkage: Chambray (Rigid )
 5.0% X 5.0%
Shrinkage: Corduroy (100% Cotton)
 4.0% X 4.0%
Shrinkage: Flannel
 Washed : 3.0% X 3.0%
 Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
Shrinkage: Velvet and Terry (Rayon & Cotton without spandex); Seersucker,
Voile & Madras checks
 Washed : 3.0% X 3.0%
Fabric: Fabric:  Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
 AATCC 135 Option 2  3 Each Shrinkage: Silk
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3- Fabric &
(2004) Direction
home laundering. Garment  Washed : 3.0% X 3.0%
Garment Garment  Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
 AATCC 150 - 2003  1 Each Shrinkage: Wool
Direction
 Washed: 3.0% X 3.0%
Shrinkage: Rayon
 Washed: 3.0% X 3.0%
Shrinkage: Linen and Linen Blends
 Washed: 3.0% X 3.0%
 Non-washed : 4.0% X 4.0%
Shrinkage: Stretch Woven With Spandex
 Washed: 3.5% X 3.5%
 Non-washed : 5.0% X 5.0%
Shrinkage: Coated Fabric:
 Non-washed: 3.5% X 3.5%
Maximum allowable growth
 All fabrics & garments: 1.0% x 1.0%

19 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

Lining compatibility to shell (max. allowable deviation in dimensional change)

 All fabrics and garments with lining: 1.0% x 1.0%

20 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY CLEAN; TENSILE STRENGTH; TEAR STRENGTH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Professional D.C./Coin op.; all linings must show compatible shrinkage to shell
fabric ≤1.0%. Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan
Fabric: Destination/EU destination.
 3 Each Shrinkage to Dry cleaning (max) :
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 1-dry Fabric & Direction
AATCC 158  All wovens: 2.0% x 2.0%
clean. Garment Garment:
Lining compatibility to shell (max. allowable deviation in dimensional change)
 1 Each
 All fabrics and garments with lining: 1.0% x 1.0%
Direction
Growth To Dry Cleaning (max.)
 All Wovens: 1.0% x 1.0%
CRE record all and report average.
Tensile strength specification for all woven fabrics
All measurements:  Please refer to the table in the wovens addendum for tensile strength
 ASTM D5034-1995 specifications by fabric type or garment type.
Fabric & (2001) 3 Each All sulfur dyed programs - Perform AATCC -26. Use CRE, record all and report
Tensile strength.
Garment Sulfur dyed program only Direction both the average in lbs and the percentage loss for each direction.
 AATCC 26, procedure  The strength loss of aged specimens should not exceed 20%.
7.1- Oven Test.  Accept if strength of fabric after steam ageing is more than the required
fabric spec even if the % strength. loss is more than 20% Please refer TB #
114a for Sulphur dyed programs.

21 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

Use CRE for fabrics > 10 oz./sq.yd. Report average. Record 5 highest peaks
(eliminate 1st), report average in lbs and percentage loss.
Fabrics ≤ 10 oz Use Elmendorf for fabrics ≤ 10 oz.
Tear strength specifications for all fabrics
 ASTM D 1424- 96 (2004)
 Please refer to the table in the wovens addendum for tensile strength
Fabrics > 10 oz
Fabric & 2 Each specifications by fabric type or garment type..
Tear strength.  ASTM D 2261
Garment Direction All sulfur dyed programs, determine tear strength loss after ageing per AATCC
Sulfur dyed program only
26.
 AATCC 26, procedure
 The strength loss of aged specimens should not exceed 20%.
7.1- Oven Test.
 Accept if strength of fabric after steam ageing is more than the required
fabric spec even if the % strength loss is more than 20% Please refer TB
#114a for Sulphur dyed programs.

SEAM SLIPPAGE; SEAM STRENGTH; PILE RETENTION; ABRASION; PILLING; PH; STRETCH & RECOVERY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fabric
Fabric  3 Each Sewing machine 14 stitches per inch; CRE
Fabric &  ASTM D434- 1995 Direction Seam slippage specifications for all fabrics
Prototype seam slippage.
Garment Garment Garment  Please refer to the table in the wovens addendum for tensile strength
 ASTM D 1683  Across specifications by fabric type.
each seam
Fabric
Seam strength specifications for all fabrics
Fabric &  ASTM D434-1995 Across each
Seam strength.  Please refer to the table in the wovens addendum for tensile strength
Garment Garment seam
specifications by fabric type.
 ASTM D 1683 mod
Fur or Faux fur garment or Trim only
Pile retention. [fur/faux fur only] Fabric GAP INC. S1029 3
 Face and Back: -1.5%
Velvet & Corduroy only. Use Taber Abrader.
Abrasion resistance. [velvet & corduroy] Fabric ASTM D4685 3
 Face & Back: Class 3.5

22 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

Use elastomeric pad. 300 cycles for all items. Report average rating. Pilling
resistance is not required for flannel fabrics All woven but flannel:
Pilling resistance. Fabric ASTM D3514 2
 Rating: 3.0

pH meter: all color ways tested ( Must be tested when colorfastness test only
are requested)
Fabric &  White fabric (except nylon/protein) : 5.5 - 7.0
pH value. AATCC 81 1
Garment  Nylon / protein fibers : 4 – 7
 Sulfur dyed : 7 – 9
 Others: 5.5 - 8.5
Measure in stretch direction only.
Elastomer of 1 – 5%:
 Measure Time Dependent Growth and Recovery using 30 minutes. Report
both growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
 Growth: 7% Maximum
Stretch & recovery.
Elastomer above 5%, but less than 10%:
[Woven textiles with spandex. Exclude
Fabric ASTM D3107- 2007 3  Measure Time Dependent growth and Recovery using 30 minutes. Report
fabrics that do not withstand the 4 lbs
both growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on growth.
weight]
 Growth: 5% Maximum
Elastomer equal to or greater than 10%:
 Measure Instantaneous growth and Recovery using 30 seconds. Report
both growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on recovery.
 Recovery: Minimum 85%

23 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

C/F TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO ACCELERATED LAUNDER

24 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

25 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRATION; C/F TO BLEACH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Use Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter. Run and report at 10/20 AFU unless otherwise
stated and determine pass/fail based on full duration.
Silk/intimate/lining/pocketing: 5/10 AFU
Indigo : 10/20 AFU
Swim Wear : 10/20 AFU
General ratings at @10 AFU
 Colors: 3.0
 White and Neon: 2.5
General ratings @ 20 AFU
 Color: 3.0
Fabric &  White and Neon: 2.5
Colorfastness to light. AATCC 16-2004 Option 3 1
Garment  Leather: 3.0  Suede: 2.5
Indigo @ 20 AFU
 Rating: 3.5
Swimwear @ 20 AFU
 Rating: 3.5
Definition of “Neon“ colors:
Refer to colors defined as “Neon“ or “SuperBright” as, for example, can be
found in highlighter felt pens (yellow/lime/pink…), bright children's
clothes, cycling apparel. Do not use neon parameters to evaluate colors
that do not correspond to the above description, even if they have optical
brightener/fluorescent additives.

26 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

Perspir-o-meter: All fabrications

Color change
 Fabric: 3.5
Fabric &  All pigment/print/indigo: 3.0
Colorfastness to perspiration. AATCC 15- 2002 1
Garment Multi-fiber staining
 All: 2.5
Self staining
 All: 4.0 [ Min]
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Fabric & Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Gap S-1003 1
[Except for fabrics with spandex.] Garment  Class 3.5

C/F TO WATER; C/F TO BURNT GAS FUMES; C/F TO POOL WATER; C/F TO SEA WATER; C/F TO OZONE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Color change
 Fabric: 3.5
 All pigment/print: 3.0
Multi-fiber staining
Fabric &  All: 2.5
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). AATCC 107- 2002 1
Garments Self staining
 All: 4.0 [ Min]
Self-staining required on swimwear, outerwear, lining fabrics and fabric being
used, on color-blocked (multiple fabric), garments only. Also applicable for
yarn-dyed and, printed fabrics
Fume Chamber, white fabrics, 1-cycle.
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes. Fabric &  White fabrics after 1-cycle: 3.5
AATCC 23- 2005 1
[White colors only] Garment "White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been treated
with an optical brightener.

27 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-C)

Dry cleaning cylinder. Test on Swimwear only

Color change
Fabric &  Fabric: 3.5
Colorfastness to chlorinated pool water. AATCC 162- 2002 1
Garments  All print: 3.0
Self staining:
 All: 4.0 [ Min]
Perspir-o-meter. Test on Swimwear/beachwear only
Color change
 Fabric: 3.5  Print: 3.0
Colorfastness to sea water. Fabric & Multi-fiber staining
AATCC 106- 2002 1
[Swimwear/beachwear only] Garments  All: 2.5
Self staining
 All: 4.0 [ Min]

All indigo dyed wovens. 2 Cycles

Fabric &
Colorfastness to ozone. AATCC 109-2005 1 Requirement:
Garments
 3.0 Rating

28 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
ADDENDUM TO WOVEN ADULTS AND WOVEN CHILDREN’S PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS (W-ADD)

(W-ADD) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

Textile
 Minimum sample size: 3 yards of 1 color; 1 yard for each additional color.
 Spray Test or Oil Repellency: 1 additional yard.
 Additional Dry Cleaning tests for Banana Republic: 1 additional yard.
Garment
 Minimum sample size: 4 garments for adults, 6 if for children and infants or small garments; plus 1 per additional color;
 Swimwear: 6 garments for adults, 8 if for children and infants; plus 1 per additional color
 Spray Test or Oil Repellency: 1 additional garment or 2 additional small garments;
 Sulphur Dyed: 1 additional garment;
 Dry Cleaning tests for Banana Republic: 1 additional garment
 Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing: 1 additional garment
Textile development testing:
 Minimum sample size: 2 yards.
For the Special Claims, please refer separate protocol

CTIONS (FABRICS 1100 THROUGH 1130

FABRICS NO WASH CARE REMARK

*This specification also applies to lining and pocketing fabrics; and regular, non-sanded
Plain Weave (Chief value cotton) 1100 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
poplin fabrics

Cotton Sheeting 1101 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium (Same yarn size and construction in both warp and fill)

Oxford 1102 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium (2 warp end to 1 fill)

Pinpoint Oxford 1103 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium (2 warp ends to 1 fill; warp yarn is 2-ply yarn, 80/2 range)

29 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRU )

Basket weave 100% cotton 1104 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Chambray (Rigid) 1105 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Chambray (Bleached/Enzyme) 1106 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Corduroy (100% Cotton) 1110 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Corduroy ( Cotton / Polyester Blend) 1111 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Twill (Rigid,Ring/Ring,Chief value cotton) 1120 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Rigid Twill (Ring/Open end) 1121 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Rigid Twill ( Open End / Open End) 1122 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium

*Note 1. Use this specification for all Nano-Care treated twill fabrics and garments. If the
Wrinkle Resistant, Rigid Twill (Pre-Cure Machine wash warm, permanent press fabric’s weight is outside of the provided weight range above, lab should contact SF
1123
Resin-Barrier Finish) cycle, tumble dry medium, permanent press Product Integrity for the appropriate standards.
Noie 2. The standards for Du

*Note 1. Do not use this specification for enzyme washed Nano-Care wrinkle resistant
Twill (Enzyme Finished) 1124 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
twill.

Twill (Sueded /Stone /Sandblasted) 1125 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium

Plain Weave (Enzyme Wash) 1126 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium

*Note. This specification also applies to lining and pocketing fabrics, twill and
Flannel 1130 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
basketweave of flannel construction.

CTIONS (FABRICS 1140 THROUGH 1260

FABRICS NO WASH CARE REMARK
Poplin (Sanded, Including Peach Finsh) 1140 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium

30 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRU )

Wrinkle Resistant Garments (Dipped/Post- Machine wash warm, permanent press

1150
Cured) cycle, tumble dry medium, permanent press

Wrinkle Resistance Garments ( Pre-Cure Machine wash warm, permanent press Note. The standards for Durable Press are located in the Universal Specification, located
1151
Barrier Finish) cycle, tumble dry medium, permanent press at beginning of this chapter.

Velvet and Terry (Rayon With or Without

1170 Machine wash warm, tumble dry low
Spandex)
Velvet and Terry (Cotton With or Without
1180 Machine wash warm, tumble dry low
Spandex)
Worsted wool 1190 Dry clean only
Machine wash cold, tumble dry low; or Dry
100% Linen 1200
clean only
Machine wash cold, tumble dry low; or Dry
Linen blend with over 50% Linen 1201
clean only
Silk 1210 Hand wash cold, line dry; or Dry Clean Only
Wool {Woolens) 1220 Hand wash cold, line dry; or Dry clean only
Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, tumble dry
Rayon 1230 low; or
Hand wash, line dry; or Dry clean only
Pocketing (Chief value synthetic) 1240 N/A
Lining (Chief value synthetic) 1250 Machine wash cold, tumble dry medium
Satin (Chief value synthetic) 1251 Machine wash cold, tumble dry medium
Chief Value Cotton and Synthetics: Machine
wash cold, tumble dry low; or Hand wash,
Stretch with spandex [ Chief value Cotton line dry; 2] Rayon/Cotton/Spandex blends: (For all fibers except those with raised surface fibers covered by specifications 1170 and
1260 Hand wash cold, line dry; Hand wash cold,
/Synthetic) 1180)
dry flat; Dry Clean Only; 3] Chief Value Wool
or Rayon/Wool/Spandex blends: Dry Clean O

31 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRU )

CTIONS (FABRICS 1270 THROUGH 3020

FABRICS NO WASH CARE REMARK
Swim wear (Chief value cotton) 1270 Machine wash cold, tumble dry low

Synthetic ( Chief Value Synthetic, No Rayon, Specification applies to normal apparel (tops, bottoms), swimwear and outerwear
1271 Machine wash cold, tumble dry low
Non Coated ) but does not include categories covered by Specification 1310 (Lightweight Shells).

Specification applies to normal apparel (tops, bottoms), swimwear and outerwear but
Synthetic (Chiffon & Georgette) 1272 Machine wash cold, tumble dry low
does not include categories covered by Specification 1310 (Lightweight Shells).

Machine wash cold, tumble dry low, retreat

Coated, Laminated -Synthetic/ Blend Fabric 1300 water repellent finish periodically. Do not
dry clean.
Machine wash cold, tumble dry low, retreat
Coated, 100 % Cotton Fabric 1301 water repellent finish periodically. Do not
dry clean
Machine wash warm, tumble dry low,
Rainwear ( Lightweight Shells) 1310
retreat water repellent finish periodically
Indian Madras Textile 3010 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium

Indian Cambric 3011 Machine wash warm; tumble dry medium *Applicable to 60/1 and 50/1 100% cotton fabrics.

Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, tumble dry

Gauze and Voile (Chief value cotton) 3012
low; or Hand wash cold, line dry
Seersucker (Cotton) 3015 Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium
Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, tumble dry
Textile Accessories (Scarves /Hat /Gloves low; or
3020
/Ties) Hand wash, line dry; or
Dry clean only

32 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRU )

33 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TENSILE STRENGTH SPE

CIFICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1100 – 1151)

FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS (MIN, LBS; WARP X WEFT)

FABRICS NO <1.0 1.1-2.0 2.1-3.0 3.1-4.0 4.1-5.0 5.1-6.0 6.1-7.0 7.1-8.0 8.1-9.0 9.1-10 10.1-14.0

Plain Weave (Chief value cotton) 1100 25x20 30x20 35x25 45x30 55x35 65x45 70x55 75x55 90x65

Cotton Sheeting 1101 30x20 35x25 40x30 45x35 50x30 50x40

Oxford 1102 50x35 60x45 60x50 65x50

Pinpoint Oxford 1103 60x35 65x45 70x50 70x50

Basket weave 100% cotton 1104 40x25 45x25 45x30 50x35 50x45

Chambray (Rigid) 1105 45x30 50x35 55x35 60x40

Chambray (Bleached/Enzyme) 1106 35x25 40x25 40x30 45x35

Corduroy (100% Cotton) 1110 40x30 45x35 50x35 50x40 55x40 60x45 60x50

Corduroy ( Cotton / Polyester Blend) 1111 45x35 50x40 55x45 60x45 65x45 65x50 70x50

Twill (Rigid,Ring/Ring,Chief value cotton) 1120 50x30 50x35 80x45 90x45 100x60 100x70 125x70

Rigid Twill (Ring/Open end) 1121 70x50 80x50 110x55 115x60

Rigid Twill ( Open End / Open End) 1122 70x50 80x50 80x55 90x60

Wrinkle Resistant, Rigid Twill (Pre-Cure Resin-Barrier Finish) 1123 65x40 70x45 75x45 75x50

Twill (Enzyme Finished) 1124 45x25 45x30 65x35 65x40 75x45 80x50 80x50 85x55

Twill (Sueded /Stone /Sandblasted) 1125 55x40 60x45 65x45 70x50 75x50

Plain Weave (Enzyme Wash) 1126 25x20 30x20 35x25 45x30 55x40 65x50 70x50 75x55

Flannel 1130 30x20 35x25 40x30 50x35 55x40 60x40

Poplin (Sanded, Including Peach Finsh) 1140 35x20 40x25 45x30 50x30

Wrinkle Resistant Garments (Dipped/Post-Cured) 1150 35x30 40x30 45x35 50x40 60x40 65x50

34 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TENSILE STRENGTH SPE

Wrinkle Resistance Garments ( Pre-Cure Barrier Finish) 1151 50x30 55x35 60x35 65x35

CIFICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1170 – 3020)

FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS (MIN, LBS; WARP X WEFT)

FABRICS NO <1.0 1.1-2.0 2.1-3.0 3.1-4.0 4.1-5.0 5.1-6.0 6.1-7.0 7.1-8.0 8.1-9.0 9.1-10 10.1-14.0

Velvet and Terry (Rayon With or Without Spandex) 1170 25x20 30x25 30x25 35x30 40x30 45x35 45x40 50x40

Velvet and Terry (Cotton With or Without Spandex) 1180 35x20 35x25 40x30 45x35 45x40 50x40

Worsted wool 1190 25x20 30x25 40x35 45x35 50x40 55x45 60x45 60x50

100% Linen 1200 35x25 40x30 45x40 50x40 55x45 70x60 70x65 80x70

Linen blend with over 50% Linen 1201 30x25 35x30 40x30 45x35 50x40 55x45

Silk 1210 20x20 30x25 35x30 40x30 45x30 45x35 50x40 55x40 55x45 60x50

Wool {Woolens) 1220 25x20 30x25 30x25 35x30 40x30 40x35 45x35 50x40

Rayon 1230 25x20 25x25 30x25 35x25 40x30 45x35 50x45 55x50 55x55

Pocketing (Chief value synthetic) 1240 60x45 65x50 75x55 80x60 85x60 90x60

Lining (Chief value synthetic) 1250 25x25 30x30 35x35 40x40 45x40

Satin (Chief value synthetic) 1251 25x25 30x30 35x35 40x40

Stretch with spandex [Chief value Cotton /Synthetic] 1260 40x20 40x20 50x25 50x25 60x30 60x30 75x40 75x40 80x50 80x50

Stretch with spandex [ Chief value Wool / Silk] 1260 35x20 35x20 40x25 4x25 45x25 45x25 55x30 55x30 65x40 65x40

Swim wear (Chief value cotton) 1270 25x25 25x25 30x30 35x35 40x40 55x45 60x50 65x55 70x60

Synthetic ( Chief Value Synthetic, No Rayon, Non Coated ) 1271 65x40 85x50 90x50 90x55 90x60 95x65 100x70

Synthetic (Chiffon & Georgette) 1272 40x35 40x35 40x35 40x35

35 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TENSILE STRENGTH SPE

Coated, Laminated -Synthetic/ Blend Fabric 1300 25x25 30x30 35x35 40x40 55x45 60x50 65x55 70x60

Coated, 100 % Cotton Fabric 1301 25x20 30x25 30x25 40x35 40x40 50x45 55x50 60x55

Rainwear ( Lightweight Shells) 1310 25x25 30x30 35x35 40x40 55x45 60x50 65x55 70x60

Indian Madras Textile 3010 25x25 30x30 35x35 40x40 55x45 60x50 65x55 70x60

Indian Cambric 3011 30x25 35x30 40x30 40x30 40x35

Gauze and Voile (Chief value cotton) 3012 25x20 30x25 30x25 30x30 35x30

Seersucker (Cotton) 3015 30x30 30x40 40x45

Textile Accessories (Scarves /Hat /Gloves /Ties) 3020 15x15 15x15 20x20 25x20 25x20 25x25 35x30 40x30 45x35 60x55

CIFICATIONS BY GARMENT GROUP

TOPS [SHIRT /BLOUSE / DRESS / LINING…..ETC.] –
Fabric Weight (oz./sq. yd) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)
Length x Width = 20x20
Length x Width = 25x20
Length x Width = 30x25
Length x Width = 35x30

BOTTOM [PANTS / SHORTS / SKIRTS……ETC.] -

Fabric Weight (oz./sq. yd) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)
Length x Width = 25x20
Length x Width = 30x20
Length x Width = 35x25
Length x Width = 45x40

OUTER WEAR -JACKETS / COATS / BLAZERS …….ETC. -

Fabric Weight (oz./sq. yd) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)

36 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TENSILE STRENGTH SPE

Length x Width = 25x20

Length x Width = 30x20
Length x Width = 40x35
Length x Width = 55x45

37 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TEAR STRENGTH SPECIF

ICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1100 – 1151)

FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS (MIN, LBS; WARP X WEFT)

FABRICS NO <1.0 1.1-2.0 2.1-3.0 3.1-4.0 4.1-5.0 5.1-6.0 6.1-7.0 7.1-8.0 8.1-9.0 9.1-10 10.1-14.0

Plain Weave (Chief value cotton) 1100 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.0 2.5x2.0 3.0x2.5 3.5x3.0 3.5x3.0 4.0x3.5

Cotton Sheeting 1101 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.0 2.5x2.0

Oxford 1102 3.5x3.0 4.5x3.5 5.0x3.5 5.0x3.5

Pinpoint Oxford 1103 5.5x3.0 6.0x3.5 8.0x5.0 8.0x5.5 9.0x6.5

Basket weave 100% cotton 1104 5.0x2.0 5.5x2.5 6.0x3.0

Chambray (Rigid) 1105 2.5x2.0 3.5x2.5 3.5x2.5 4.0x3.5

Chambray (Bleached/Enzyme) 1106 2.0x2.0 3.0x2.0 3.5x2.5 3.5x3.0

Corduroy (100% Cotton) 1110 2.5x2.0 2.5x2.0 3.0x2.5 4.0x3.0 4.5x3.0 5.0x3.0

Corduroy ( Cotton / Polyester Blend) 1111 2.5x2.5 3.0x2.5 3.0x2.5 3.0x3.0 3.5x3.5 4.0x3.5

Twill (Rigid,Ring/Ring,Chief value cotton) 1120 3.0x2.0 3.5x2.5 3.5X2.5 4.5x3.5 5.0X4.0 5.5x4.5 6.0x5.0

Rigid Twill (Ring/Open end) 1121 4.0X3.0 4.5x3.5 6.0x4.5 6.5x5.0

Rigid Twill ( Open End / Open End) 1122 3.5X2.5 4.0X3.0 5.5x4.5 6.0x5.0

Wrinkle Resistant, Rigid Twill (Pre-Cure Resin-Barrier Finish) 1123 3.0X2.5 3.5X3.0 4.0x3.0 4.0x3.5

Twill (Enzyme Finished) 1124 2.5x2.0 3.0x2.5 3.0x2.0 3.5x3.5 4.0x4.0 4.5x4.0

Twill (Sueded /Stone /Sandblasted) 1125 3.0x2.5 3.0x3.0 3.5x3.5 4.0x4.0

Plain Weave (Enzyme Wash) 1126 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5 3.5x2.5 3.0x3.0

Flannel 1130 3.0x2.0 3.5x2.0 3.5x3.5 4.0x3.0 4.0x3.5 5.0x3.5 5.0x4.0

Poplin (Sanded, Including Peach Finsh) 1140 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5 3.0x3.0

Wrinkle Resistant Garments (Dipped/Post-Cured) 1150 2.0X2.0 2.5x2.5 3.0X2.5

38 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TEAR STRENGTH SPECIF

Wrinkle Resistance Garments ( Pre-Cure Barrier Finish) 1151 3.0x3.0 3.5x3.0 4.0x3.5

ICATIONS BY FABRIC GROUP (FABRICS 1170 – 3020)

FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS (MIN, LBS; WARP X WEFT)

FABRICS NO <1.0 1.1-2.0 2.1-3.0 3.1-4.0 4.1-5.0 5.1-6.0 6.1-7.0 7.1-8.0 8.1-9.0 9.1-10 10.1-14.0

Velvet and Terry (Rayon With or Without Spandex) 1170

3.0x2.0 3.5x2.5 3.5x2.5 4.0x2.5 4.0x3.0
Velvet and Terry (Cotton With or Without Spandex) 1180
3.5x2.5 4.0x2.5 4.0x2.5 4.0x3.0
Worsted wool 1190
2.0x2.0 2.5x2.0 2.5x2.5 3.0x2.5 3.5x3.5 4.5x3.5 4.0x4.0 5.0x5.0
100% Linen 1200
4.5x4.5 5.0x5.0 6.0x6.0 7.0x7.0 8.0x8.0 9.0x8.0 9.0x9.0 10.0x10.0
Linen blend with over 50% Linen 1201
3.5x3.5 4.0x4.0 4.5x4.5 5.0x5.0
Silk 1210
1.5x1.5 2.0x1.5 3.0x2.0 3.0x2.5 3.5x3.0
Wool {Woolens) 1220
2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5 2.5x2.5 2.5x2.5 3.0x3.0 3.0x3.0
Rayon 1230
2.5x2.0 3.0x2.5 3.0x2.0 3.0x3.0 3.5x3.0 4.0x3.0 4.0x4.0 4.5x4.0 5.0x4.0
Pocketing (Chief value synthetic) 1240
2.5x2.0 3.5x2.5 4.0x3.0 6.5x5.0 6.5x5.5 7.0x5.5
Lining (Chief value synthetic) 1250
1.5x1.5 2.5x2.0 3.0x2.5 4.0x2.5
Satin (Chief value synthetic) 1251
2.5x2.0 3.0x2.5 3.5x2.5
Stretch with spandex 1260
2.5x2.5 3.5x2.5 3.5x3.0 4.0x3.0 4.5x3.5 5.0x4.0
Swim wear (Chief value cotton) 1270
2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5 2.5x2.5 3.0x3.0

39 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TEAR STRENGTH SPECIF

Synthetic ( Chief Value Synthetic, No Rayon, Non Coated ) 1271

2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5 3.0x2.5 3.0x3.0 3.5x3.0 3.5x3.5
Synthetic (Chiffon & Georgette) 1272
2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0
Coated, Laminated -Synthetic/ Blend Fabric 1300
2.5x2.5 2.5x2.5
Coated, 100 % Cotton Fabric 1301
1.5x1.5 2.0x2.0
Rainwear ( Lightweight Shells) 1310
1.5x1.5 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5
Indian Madras Textile 3010
1.5x1.5 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5
Indian Cambric 3011
1.5x1.5 2.0x2.0
Gauze and Voile (Chief value cotton) 3012
2.0x1.5 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5
Seersucker (Cotton) 3015
2.0x2.0 3.0x2.0 3.0x2.0
Textile Accessories (Scarves /Hat /Gloves /Ties) 3020
1.5x1.5 1.5x1.5 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.0x2.0 2.5x2.5

ICATIONS BY GARMENT GROUP

TOPS [SHIRT /BLOUSE / DRESS / LINING…..ETC.] –
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)
Length x Width =1.5x1.5
Length x Width = 2.0x1.5
Length x Width = 2.0x2.0
Length x Width = 2.5x2.0

BOTTOM [PANTS / SHORTS / SKIRTS……ETC.] -

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)
Length x Width = 1.5x1.5
Length x Width = 2.0x2.0
Length x Width = 2.5x2.0
Length x Width = 3.5x2.5

40 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD) TEAR STRENGTH SPECIF

OUTER WEAR -JACKETS / COATS / BLAZERS …….ETC. -

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)

Length x Width = 1.5x1.5

Length x Width = 2.0x2.0
Length x Width = 2.5x2.5
Length x Width = 3.0x3.0

41 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD)

SEAM SLIPPAGE SPECIFICATIONS BY FABRIC & GARMENT GROUP

SEAM SLIPPAGE SPECIFICATIONS FOR FABRIC GROUPS

Fabric Weight Seam Slippage, prototype seam (lbs/ in@1/4” separation)

≤ 3.0 oz/sq yd Length x Width = 15 x 15 [lbs... Min]

3.1- 5.0 oz/sq yd Length x Width = 15 x 20 * lbs… Min+
≥ 5.1 oz/sq yd Length X Width = 20 x 20 [Lbs ..Min ]

SEAM SLIPPAGE SPECIFICATIONS FOR GARMENT GROUPS

Garment Group Seam Slippage, prototype seam (lbs/ in@1/4” separation)

Tops *Shirt /Blouse / Dress / Lining…..etc.+ Length x Width = 15 x 15 [lbs... Min]

Bottom *Pants / Shorts / Skirts……etc.+ Length x width = 20 x20 [ lbs.. Min]

Outer Wear [Jackets / Coats / Blazers..etc] Length x width = 20x20 [ lbs.. Min]

42 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 SEAM STRENGTH SPECIFICATION FOR FABRIC & GARMENT
TOPS [SHIRT /BLOUSE /DRESS /LINING…ETC.]

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Fabric Specifications (min, lbs.) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)

≤ 2.0 Seams: 15 [lbs... Min] Seams: 15 [lbs... Min]

2.1 to 5.0 Seams: 30 [lbs... Min] Seams: 25 [lbs... Min]
5.1 to 9.0 Seams: 30 [lbs... Min] Seams: 25 [lbs... Min]
≥ 9.1 Seams: 40 [lbs... Min] Seams: 35 [lbs... Min]

BOTTOM [PANTS /SHORTS /SKIRTS…ETC.]

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Fabric Specifications (min, lbs.) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)
≤ 2.0 Seams: 20 [lbs... Min] Seams: 20 [lbs... Min]
2.1 to 5.0 Seams: 30 [lbs... Min] Seams: 30 [lbs... Min]
5.1 to 9.0 Seams: 35 [lbs... Min] Seams: 35 [lbs... Min]
≥ 9.1 Seams: 40 [lbs... Min] Seams: 40 [lbs... Min]

OUTER WEAR [JACKETS /COATS /BLAZERS…ETC.]

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Fabric Specifications (min, lbs.) Garment Specifications (min, lbs.)
≤ 2.0 Seams: 20 [lbs... Min] Seams: 20 [lbs... Min]
2.1 to 5.0 Seams: 25 [lbs... Min] Seams: 25 [lbs... Min]
5.1 to 9.0 Seams: 35 [lbs... Min] Seams: 35 [lbs... Min]
≥ 9.1 Seams: 40 [lbs... Min] Seams: 40 [lbs... Min]

Bartack reinforcement
 30% less than above seam requirements for the weight category
Shoulder strap to body
 ≤5.0 oz/sq yd: 10 lbs
 > 5.0 oz/sq yd: 15 lbs

43 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(W-ADD)

Side Slit
 ≤5.0 oz/sq yd: 10 lbs
 >5.0 oz/sq yd: 15 lbs
Felled Seam
 5 lb more than normal seam requirements

DENIM (ADULT) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (D-A)

(D-A) FABRIC WEIGHT; FABRIC CONSTRUCTION; PH; SKEW MOVEMENT; TORQUE; GENERAL APPEARANCE; DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & Balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings.
Washed Fabric ASTM D3776 Both Washed & Non-Washed Fabric:
Fabric weight. 3
& Garment (2002-option C) < 10.0 oz/sq yd: ±5%
≥ 10.0 oz/sq yd: ±3%
Pick Glass; outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings.
Washed Fabric Both washed and Non-Washed Fabric.
Fabric construction. ASTM D3775 3
& Garment  < 10.0 oz/sq yd: ±5%
 ≥ 10.0 oz/sq yd: ±3%
pH meter: all color ways tested
 White fabric (except nylon/protein) : 5.5 - 7.0
Washed Fabric
pH value. AATCC 81 1  Nylon / protein fibers : 4 – 7
& Garment
 Sulfur dyed : 7 – 9
 Others: 5.5 - 8.5
Rigid denim only,
Skew movement. Fabric Gap Method S1048 1
 ± 3.0% maximum skew movement
Measure side seam displacement and calculate % torque as: [Displacement
Torque. Garment Manual Measure 1 (in.)/garment length (in.)] X 100.
 3.0% torque maximum

44 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 As per Care label. Dry cleaning is required on all BR product and all Japan/EU destination
General appearance before and after  Color: AATCC Evaluation product. Dry clean 1 time, as per care label.
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Garment Procedures 1 and 2. 1 As per care label.
laundering or 1 dry clean).  Use UV Suppressor to  Report all obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
evaluate color change. performance/appearance and label legibility.
Test at fabric stage if not from an accredited mill.
Fabric
Shrinkage to Laundering (Max)
 3 Each
AATCC 135 (2004) for fabrics  Non-stretch (Washed): 2.5% x 2.5%
Direction
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3- Fabric &  Non-stretch (rigid): 4.0% x 4.0%
Garment
home laundering. Garment AATCC 150 - 2003 (Garment)  Stretch (rigid): 4.0% x 7.0%
 1 Each  Stretch (washed): 3.0% x 3.0%
Direction
Growth
 1.0% x 1.0% maximum

45 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; DURABILITY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fabric Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan or EU. Test
 3 Each at fabric stage if not from an accredited mill Shrinkage:
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 1-dry Fabric & AATCC 158 Direction  All fabrics: 2.5% x 2.5%
clean. Garment [Fabric]/[Garment] Garment Growth
 1 Each  All fabrics: 1.0% x 1.0% maximum
Direction
Automatic washer/dryer. Check for durability through 20 wash for development
& production testing.
Rate color properties with AATCC evaluation procedure 1 and/or 2.
Color change 
Class 3. 0 min.
Self Staining
Durability to repeated laundering.  Class 4.0 min.
Garment AATCC 150 All Record results and mount one sample to report.
[Heat transfer & fragile trim.]
Continue washing samples to check for durability through 20 wash cycles during
development & production stage.
 Heat transfers that do not detach, lift, or noticeably change in
appearance after the completion of the last required cleaning cycle
are considered acceptable.
 Heat transfers that do not meet wash requirements are not
allowed.

46 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A)

Professional D.C./Coin Op. Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and

products for Japan or EU. Dry Clean 1 time
Rate color properties with AATCC evaluation procedure 1 and/or 2.
Color change 
Class 3.0 min.
Self Staining
Durability to repeated dry cleaning.  Class 4.0 min.
Garment AATCC 158 All
[Heat transfer & fragile trim.] Record results and mount one sample to report.
Continue dry cleaning additional samples to check for durability through 5 dry
cleaning cycles during development & 1 dry-cleaning cycle for production stage.
 Heat transfers that do not detach, lift, or noticeably change in appearance
after the completion of the last required cleaning cycle are considered
acceptable.
 Heat transfers that do not meet dryclean requirements are not allowed.

STRETCH & RECOVERY; SEAMS; POCKETS; SNAPS; BUTTONS; SMALL PARTS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Modifications:
1. Pre-wash fabric through 3 home laundries, at a wash water
temperature setting of 140 degrees F, AATCC ‘very hot’ designation).
Stretch & recovery. Follow AATCC recommendations for “Standardization of Home
[All stretch denim containing spandex, Laundry Test Conditions”
Fabric ASTM D3107- 2007 (mod) 3
polyester filament yarns, or other 2. Use 5 lbs load to determine maximum stretch %
elastomeric fibers]
Measure in stretch direction only.
 Measure Time Dependent Growth and Recovery using 30 minutes. Report
maximum elongation, growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
 Growth Specification: 5% Maximum
Modifications:
1. Use 5 lbs of load to determine maximum stretch %
2. Use 6-inch gauge length, sampled from back rear leg panel below rear
Stretch & recovery.
pocket. If sample must be taken elsewhere, note as information on
[All stretch denim containing spandex, report.
Garment ASTM D3107- 2007 (mod) 3
polyester filament yarns, or other
Measure in stretch direction only.
elastomeric fibers]
 Measure Time Dependent Growth and Recovery using 30 minutes. Report
maximum elongation, growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
 Growth Specification: 5% Maximum

47 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 
Test from the side, front and back
Belt loop attachment strength. Garment ASTM D1683 mod 3  Thread Belt Loops: 13 lbs
 All other Belt Loops: 25 lbs
CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test light duty snaps (12-16Ligne)/Hand
Sewn Snap.
Snaps - snapping/ unsnapping. Garment ASTM D4846 All
Snapping / unsnapping:
 2.0 lb. min - 8.0 lb. max
CRE or Chatillon + Suitable clamping device. Record ultimate failure and
nature of failure.
Button attachment strength. Garment GAP INC S1023 All
Attachment strength:
 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds
CRE or SafQ Pulling Tester Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male & female
components) Record ultimate failure and nature of failure Attachment
Snap attachment strength. Garment GAP INC. SAFQ All
strength:
 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds
CRE or Chatillon. Includes all functional/non-functional trims, including soft
decorative trim items . Record ultimate failure and nature of failures.
Small parts attachment strength. Garment GAP INC. S1023 All
Attachment strength
 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds

48 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A)

TENSILE & TEAR FOR FABRIC STAGE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Test at fabric stage (unwashed state) if not from an accredited mill. Test sulphur
dyed programs before and after steam ageing. Minimum strength specifications
before steam ageing as follows (warp x weft in lbs.).
OE/OE:
 <10.oz/sq yd: 105 x 60 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
130 x 80 (lbs)
All measurements: Ring/OE:
 ASTM D5034  <10.oz/sq yd: 115 x 60 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
Sulfur dyed program only 140 x 80 (lbs)
Tensile strength. Rigid fabric 3
 AATCC 26 Ring/Ring:
 Please refer TB #114a for  <10.oz/sq yd: 115 x 60 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
Sulphur dyed programs 140 x 80 (lbs)
Stretch Denim:
 <10. oz/sq yd: 145 x 75 (lbs)
 >10. oz/sq yd: 170 x 90 (lbs)
Strength results after steam ageing
 Sulfur-dyed fabrics must meet the appropriate
above specification after steam ageing
Test at fabric stage (unwashed state) if not from an accredited mill. Test sulphur
dyed programs before and after steam ageing. Minimum strength specifications
before steam ageing as follows (warp x weft in lbs.).
OE/OE:
 <10 oz/sq yd: 7.0 x 5.0 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
9.0 x 7.0 (lbs)
All measurements:
Ring/OE:
 ASTM D2261
 <10 oz/sq yd: 8.0 x 5.0 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
Sulfur dyed programs only: 10.0 x 7.0 (lbs)
Tear strength. Rigid fabric 2
 AATCC 26 Ring/Ring:
 Please refer TB #114a for
 <10 oz/sq yd: 8.0 x 6.0 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
Sulphur dyed programs
10.0 x 8.0 (lbs)
Stretch Denim:
 <10 oz/sq yd: 9.0 x 6.0 (lbs)
 >10 oz/sq yd: 11.0 x 8.0 (lbs)
Strength results after steam ageing

49 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
  Sulfur-dyed fabrics must meet the appropriate
above specification after steam ageing

50 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A)

TENSILE & TEAR FOR GARMENT STAGE, SEAM STRENGTH, PACK POCKET ATTACHMENT STRENGTH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Test before and after steam ageing. Strength before and after steam ageing
All measurements: must meet minimum strength requirements in sulphur dyed programs.
 ASTM D5034 All washes:
Washed Fabric & Sulfur dyed programs only:  <12.0 oz/sq yd: 60 x 50 (lbs)
Tensile strength. 3
Garment  AATCC 26  >12.0 oz/sq yd: 95 x 70 (lbs)
 Please refer TB #114a for Strength results after steam ageing
Sulphur dyed programs  Sulfur-dyed garments must meet the appropriate above specification after
steam ageing
Test before and after steam ageing. Strength before steam ageing must meet
All measurements: minimum strength requirements in sulphur dyed programs.
 ASTM D2261 All washes:
Washed Fabric & Sulfur dyed programs only:  <12 oz/sq yd: 4.5 x 4.0 (lbs)
Tear strength. 2
Garment  AATCC 26  >12 oz/sq yd: 6.5 x 6.0 (lbs)
 Please refer TB #114a for Strength results after steam ageing
Sulphur dyed programs  Sulfur-dyed garments must meet the appropriate above specification after
steam ageing
Seam strength of pocket fabric. Garment ASTM D1683 2  30-lb. minimum for all seam types
Back pocket attachment strength. Garment Gap Inc. S-1028 2  30% below original warp tensile standard.

51 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A)

Test side seam, front rise seam, back rise seam, inseam at thigh area, zipper
stress area, and back yoke.
Seam strength of denim garment. Garment ASTM D1683 1
 All Seam Types: 35 lb. minimum
 Bar tacks, reinforcements: 20 lb minimum

COLORFASTNESS PROPERTIES

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Test both base fabric and prints or any other surface ornamentation present.
Washed Fabric & Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only.
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). AATCC 8 / 116 1
Garment Dry: Class: 2.5
Wet: Class: 1.5
Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Color change
 Class 3.5
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to actual laundering. AATCC 150 1 Multifiber Staining
Garment
 Class 2.5
Self- staining
 Class 4.0

52 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A)

Xenon-Arc Fade-o-meter
White and light areas
Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Class 3.0 at 10/20 hours
All other areas
 Class 3.5 at 10/20 hours
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Washed Fabric & Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Gap S-1003 1
[Except for fabrics with spandex.] Garment  Class 3.5
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes . AATCC 23 1  Class 3.5 (1 Cycle)
Garment
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to ozone. AATCC 109 1  Class ≥ 3.0 (2 Cycles)
Garment
Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Gap S-1004 1 Color change
Garment
 Class 3.5

MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE FOR ADULT’S DENIM

Fabric (rigid denim)

 3 yards
Garment
 3 Garments for adults plus 1 per additional color/wash

53 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A)

Sulphur Dyed:
 1 additional garment;
Additional Dry Cleaning tests for Banana Republic:
 1 additional garment
Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing:
 1 additional garment

(D-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

WASH EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTION ABBREVIATION MEANING

Sand Blasted MWW, TDM MWW Machine Wash Warm
Stone Washed MWW, TDM MWC Machine Wash Cold
Antique Wash (Ring/Ring) MWW, TDM HW Hand Wash
Antique Wash (Ring/OE) MWW, TDM HWC Hand Wash Cold
Bleached White Denim MWW, TDM
TDL Tumble Dry Medium
MWW, TDM, Wash with like colors, Wash before
Black, Colored, Over-Dyed TDL Tumble Dry Low
wearing
MWC, TDM, Wash with like colors, Wash before LD Line Dry
Black, Rinsed
wearing DF Dry Flat
MWC, TDM, Wash with like colors, Wash before DC Dry Clean
Rinsed (OE/OE, Ring/OE, Ring/Ring)
wearing GC Gentle Cycle

54 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-A)

55 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
DENIM (CHILDREN) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOL AND SPECIFICATIONS (D-C)

(D-C) FABRIC WEIGHT; FABRIC CONSTRUCTION; PH; SKEW MOVEMENT; TORQUE; GENERAL APPEARANCE; DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Washed Fabric ASTM D3776 Both washed and unwashed fabrics
Fabric weight. 3
& Garment (2002-option C) ≥10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 3.0% from claim
< 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 5.0% from claim
Pick Glass; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Washed Fabric Both washed and unwashed fabrics
Fabric construction. ASTM D3775 3
& Garment  ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 3.0% from claim
 < 10.0 oz/yd2 THEN ± 5.0% from claim
pH meter: all color ways tested
 White fabric (except nylon/protein) : 5.5 - 7.0
Washed Fabric
pH value. AATCC 81 1  Nylon / protein fibers : 4 – 7
& Garment
 Sulfur dyed : 7 – 9
 Others: 5.5 - 8.5
Rigid denim only,
Skew movement. Fabric Gap Method S1048 1
 ± 3.0% maximum skew movement
Measure side seam displacement and calculate % torque as: [Displacement
Torque. Garment Manual Measure 1 (in.)/garment length (in.)] X 100.
 3.0% torque maximum
As per Care label.
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan or EU. Dry
General appearance before and after  Color: AATCC Evaluation clean 1 time, as per care label.
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Garment Procedures 1 and 2. 1
 Report all obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
laundering or 1 dry clean).  Use UV Suppressor to
performance/appearance and label legibility.
evaluate color change.

56 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-

Test at fabric stage if not from an accredited mill.

Fabric
Shrinkage to Laundering (Max)
 3 Each
AATCC 135 (2004) for fabrics  Non-stretch (Washed): 2.5% x 2.5%
Direction
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3- Fabric &  Non-stretch (rigid): 4.0% x 4.0%
Garment
home laundering. Garment AATCC 150 - 2003 (Garment)  Stretch (rigid): 4.0% x 7.0%
 1 Each  Stretch (washed): 3.0% x 3.0%
Direction
Growth
 1.0% x 1.0% maximum

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; STRETCH & RECOVERY; SEAM STRENGTH; POCKET ATTACH; BELT LOOP ATTACH; SNAPS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fabric Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan or EU. Test
 3 Each at fabric stage if not from an accredited mill Shrinkage:
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 1-dry Fabric & AATCC 158 Direction  All fabrics: 2.5% x 2.5%
clean. Garment [Fabric]/[Garment] Garment Growth
 1 Each  1.0% x 1.0% maximum
Direction
Modifications:
3. Pre-wash fabric through 3 home laundries, at a wash water
temperature setting of 140 degrees F, AATCC ‘very hot’ designation).
Stretch & recovery. Follow AATCC recommendations for “Standardization of Home
[All stretch denim containing spandex, Laundry Test Conditions”
Fabric ASTM D3107- 2007 (mod) 3
polyester filament yarns, or other 4. Use 5 lbs load to determine maximum stretch %
elastomeric fibers]
Measure in stretch direction only.
 Measure Time Dependent Growth and Recovery using 30 minutes. Report
maximum elongation, growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
 Growth Specification: 5% Maximum

57 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-C)

Modifications:
1. Use 5 lbs of load to determine maximum stretch %
2. Use 6-inch gauge length, sampled from back rear leg panel below rear
Stretch & recovery.
pocket. If sample must be taken elsewhere, note as information on
[All stretch denim containing spandex, report.
Garment ASTM D3107- 2007 (mod) 3
polyester filament yarns, or other
Measure in stretch direction only.
elastomeric fibers]
 Measure Time Dependent Growth and Recovery using 30 minutes. Report
maximum elongation, growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
 Growth Specification: 5% Maximum
Seam strength of pocket fabric. Garment ASTM D1683 2  30-lb. minimum for all seam types
Back Pocket attachment strength Garment Gap Inc. S-1028 2  30% below original warp tensile standard.
Test from the side, front and back
Belt loop attachment strength. Garment ASTM D1683 mod 3  Thread Belt Loops: 13 lbs
 All other Belt Loops: 25 lbs
CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test light duty snaps (12-16Ligne)/Hand
Sewn Snap.
Snaps - snapping/ unsnapping. Garment ASTM D4846 All
Snapping / unsnapping:
 2.0 lb. min - 8.0 lb. max

C) DURABILITY TO REPEATED LAUNDER OR DRY CLEAN

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

58 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-

Automatic washer/dryer. Check for durability through 20 wash for development

& production testing.
Rate color properties with AATCC evaluation procedure 1 and/or 2.
Color change 
Class 3. 0 min.
Self Staining
Durability to repeated laundering.  Class 4.0 min.
Garment AATCC 150 All Record results and mount one sample to report.
[Heat transfer & fragile trim.]
Continue washing samples to check for durability through 20 wash cycles during
development & production stage.
 Heat transfers that do not detach, lift, or noticeably change in
appearance after the completion of the last required cleaning cycle
are considered acceptable.
 Heat transfers that do not meet wash requirements are not
allowed.
Professional D.C./Coin Op. Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and
products for Japan or EU. Dry Clean 1 time
Rate color properties with AATCC evaluation procedure 1 and/or 2.
Color change 
Class 3.0 min.
Self Staining
Durability to repeated dry cleaning.  Class 4.0 min.
Garment AATCC 158 All Record results and mount one sample to report.
[Heat transfer & fragile trim.]
Continue dry cleaning additional samples to check for durability through 5 dry
cleaning cycles during development & 1 dry-cleaning cycle for production stage.
 Heat transfers that do not detach, lift, or noticeably change in
appearance after the completion of the last required cleaning cycle
are considered acceptable.
 Heat transfers that do not meet dryclean requirements are not
allowed.

59 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-C)

TENSILE & TEAR FOR FABRIC STAGE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Test at fabric stage (unwashed state) if not from an accredited mill. Test sulphur
dyed programs before and after steam ageing. Minimum strength specifications
before steam ageing as follows (warp x weft in lbs.).
OE/OE:
 <10.oz/sq yd: 105 x 60 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
130 x 80 (lbs)
Ring/OE:
All measurements:  <10.oz/sq yd: 115 x 60 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
 ASTM D5034-1995 (2001) 140 x 80 (lbs)
Tensile strength. Rigid fabric 3
Sulfur dyed program only Ring/Ring:
 AATCC 26  <10.oz/sq yd: 115 x 60 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
140 x 80 (lbs)
Stretch Denim:
 <10. oz/sq yd: 145 x 75 (lbs)
 >10. oz/sq yd: 170 x 90 (lbs)
Strength results after steam ageing
 Sulfur-dyed fabrics must meet the appropriate
above specification after steam ageing

60 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-C)

Test at fabric stage (unwashed state) if not from an accredited mill. Test sulphur
dyed programs before and after steam ageing. Minimum strength specifications
before steam ageing as follows (warp x weft in lbs.).
OE/OE:
 <10 oz/sq yd: 7.0 x 5.0 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
9.0 x 7.0 (lbs)
Ring/OE:
All measurements:  <10 oz/sq yd: 8.0 x 5.0 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
 ASTM D2261 10.0 x 7.0 (lbs)
Tear strength. Rigid fabric 2
Sulfur dyed programs only: Ring/Ring:
 AATCC 26  <10 oz/sq yd: 8.0 x 6.0 (lbs)  >10 oz/sq yd:
10.0 x 8.0 (lbs)
Stretch Denim:
 <10 oz/sq yd: 9.0 x 6.0 (lbs)
 >10 oz/sq yd: 11.0 x 8.0 (lbs)
Strength results after steam ageing
 Sulfur-dyed fabrics must meet the appropriate
above specification after steam ageing

TENSILE & TEAR FOR GARMENT STAGE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Test before and after steam ageing. Strength before and after steam ageing
must meet minimum strength requirements in sulphur dyed programs.
All measurements: All washes:
Garment, Washed  ASTM D5034  <12.0 oz/sq yd: 60 x 50 (lbs)
Tensile strength. 3
fabric Sulfur dyed programs only:  >12.0 oz/sq yd: 95 x 70 (lbs)
 AATCC 26 Strength results after steam ageing
 Sulfur-dyed garments must meet the appropriate above specification after
steam ageing

61 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-C)

Test before and after steam ageing. Strength before steam ageing must meet
minimum strength requirements in sulphur dyed programs.
All measurements: All washes:
Garment, Washed  ASTM D2261  <12 oz/sq yd: 4.5 x 4.0 (lbs)
Tear strength. 2
fabric Sulfur dyed programs only:  >12 oz/sq yd: 6.5 x 6.0 (lbs)
 AATCC 26 Strength results after steam ageing
 Sulfur-dyed garments must meet the appropriate above specification after
steam ageing

62 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-C)

COLORFASTNESS PROPERTIES
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Test both base fabric and prints or any other surface ornamentation present.
Washed Fabric & Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only.
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). AATCC 8 / 116 1
Garment Dry: Class: 2..5
Wet: Class: 1.5
Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Color change
 Class 3.5
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to actual laundering. AATCC 150 1 Multifiber Staining
Garment
 Class 2.5
Self- staining
 Class 4.0
Xenon-Arc Fade-o-meter
White and light areas
Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Class 3.0 at 10/20 hours
All other areas
 Class 3.5 at 10/20 hours
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Washed Fabric & Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Gap S-1003 1
[Except for fabrics with spandex.] Garment  Class 3.5
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes. AATCC 23 1  Class 3.5 (1 Cycle)
Garment
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to ozone. AATCC 109 1  Class ≥ 3.0 (2 Cycles)
Garment
Test at washed fabric stage for care instruction only
Washed Fabric &
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Gap S-1004 1 Color change
Garment
 Class 3.5

MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE FOR CHILDREN’S DENIM

Sample Size, Rigid Denim (Fabric)
 3 yards

63 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(D-C)

Sample Size, Garments

Minimum sample size
 6 for children & 1 per additional color.
Banana Republic Dry-cleaning
 1 additional garment
Heat & Fragile Trim testing
 1 additional garment
For infants styles
 Japan destinations garment samples must be sent to
Japan lab as per sampling plan S-2 for testing

(D-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

WASH EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTION

nd Blasted MWW, TDM ABBREVIATION MEANING
Stone Washed MWW, TDM MWW Machine Wash Warm
Antique Wash (Ring/Ring) MWW, TDM MWC Machine Wash Cold
Antique Wash (Ring/OE) MWW, TDM HW Hand Wash
Bleached White Denim MWW, TDM HWC Hand Wash Cold
MWW, TDM, Wash with like colors, Wash before
Black, Colored, Over-Dyed TDL Tumble Dry Medium
wearing
MWC, TDM, Wash with like colors, Wash before TDL Tumble Dry Low
Black, Rinsed
wearing LD Line Dry
MWC, TDM, Wash with like colors, Wash before DF Dry Flat
Rinsed (OE/OE, Ring/OE, Ring/Ring)
wearing DC Dry Clean
GC Gentle Cycle

64 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
KNIT (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (K-A)

(K-A) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; PH; TORQUE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & Balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings. Both
Washed & Non–Washed Fabric:
Fabric weight. Fabric & Garment ASTM D3776 Option C 3
 < 10.0 oz / sq yd & Drop Needle Fabric: +/- 5%
 ≥ 10.0 oz/ sq.yd: +/-3%
Pick Glass; outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings. Both
washed and Non-Washed Fabric.
Fabric construction. Fabric ASTM D3887 (2004) 3
 < 10.0 oz / sq yd & Drop Needle Fabric: +/- 5%
 ≥ 10.0 oz/ sq.yd: +/-3%
Analytical balance; Outside 10% variation, take 2 more readings
Yarn size. Fabric ASTM D 1059 2
 +/- 5% maximum
pH meter. All colors tested at fabric stage. Must be tested when additional
colorfastness tests are required. Test at garment stage when is washed program.
 Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 7.0
 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
pH value. Fabric & Garment AATCC 81 ( 2006) 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5
"White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been treated
with an optical brightener. Includes fabrics, which have up to 50% white.
Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products and Japan/EU destination products.
Fabric: Fabric
 AATCC 179 Method 2  Requirement: 5% (Max)
Torque. Fabric & Garment Option 3 (2004) 1 Garment
Garment:  Manual Measure the side seam displacement, calculate % torque as:
 Manual Measure [Displacement / Garment Length from HPS] x 100 
Requirement: 5% (Max)

65 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Automatic washer / dryer; all linings must show compatible shrinkage to shell.
Shrinkage, All Fabric or Garment Washed Programs
 General: 3.5% x 3.5%
 Rayon (incl Modal & Lyocell): 6.0% x 6.0%
 Other CVS (Poly,Nylon, TC,etc): 2.0% x 2.0%
Fabric: Fabric :
Shrinkage, Non-Washed Programs Only
 AATCC 135 Option 2  3 Each
 General: 6% x 6%
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3- (2004) Direction
Fabric & Garment  Rayon (incl Modal & Lyocell): 8% x 8%
home laundering. Garment: Garment:
 Other CVS (Poly/Nylon/TC,etc) : 3.5% x 3.5%
 AATCC 150 (2003)  1-Each  Others (includes CVC, Fleece/French Terry, Pique/Thermal, Rib,
Direction
Mesh/Lace/Tricot/Raschel): 8% x 8%
Lining compatible with Shell:
 1% x 1%
Growth:
 2% x 2% Maximum
Professional D.C. / Coin op. All linings must be compatible to shrinkage to shell
fabric. Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products and Japan/EU destination
Fabric: products.
 3 Each Shrinkage:
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to Direction
Fabric & Garment AATCC 158 (2005)  2% x 2% (max.)
1dry clean. Garment:
Lining compatible with shell:
 1-Each
 1% x 1%
Direction
Growth:
 +0% x +0% maximum

GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO ACCELERATED LAUNDERING

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

66 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products and Japan/EU destination products.

Fabric
 General assessment, before and after laundering & ironing. No obvious
defects/observations affecting the end product performance & appearance.
Garment
 Evaluate the appearance of both outside & inside of the garment before and
after laundering & ironing.
As per Care Label;  Report comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
AATCC Evaluation  Report any foreign objects or matter (such as tacky or sticky feel on the
General appearance before and after
Procedures 1 and 2. Use inside of a screen print t-shirt or transfer paper left after a heat transfer has
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Fabric & Garment 1 been applied), etc, including exactly what was discovered.
UV Suppressor when
laundering or 1 dry clean).
evaluating for Color  List all observations.
Change
Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness To 3-Home Laundering, rate
with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both Fabric & Garment stages:
Color Change:
 Color: 3.5;
 Pigment/Print/Indigo: 3.0
Self Staining:
 4.0
Launder-o-meter. To replicate Hand laundering and Machine Wash Cold
laundering use AATCC61-1A (40°C); To replicate Machine Wash Warm laundering
use AATCC61- 2A (49°C).
Fabric stage unless Color Change:
garment dyed.  All fabrics: Grade 3.5
Colorfastness to accelerated  Pigment/Print & Indigo: Grade 3.0
For garment dyed, AATCC 61 (Modified) 1
laundering.
test at Garment Color Staining: 
stage All: Grade 3.0
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0

67 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

COLORFASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING, BLEACH, & PERSPIRATION

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products and Japan/EU destination products.

Fabric stage unless Launder-o-meter.
garment dyed. Color change:
Colorfastness to dry cleaning. For garment dyed, AATCC 132 (2004) 1  Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
test at Garment  Grade 3.0 – all pigment/Print & Indigo
stage Self- staining:
 Grade 4.5
Fabric stage unless
garment dyed.
Spot test: Sodium Perborate Bleach
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. For garment dyed, GAP INC. S1004 1
 Grade 4.0 – all color
test at Garment
stage
Fabric stage unless
garment dyed. Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach.
For garment dyed, GAP INC. S1003 1 All fabric except Textile with Spandex and functional finishing.
[Except for fabrics with spandex.]
test at Garment  Grade 4.0
stage
All fabrications. Perspir-o-meter.
Daywear, shape wear, active sports apparel, shirts, and adult sleepwear - check
fabric, straps, bottom band, hook and eye tape, lining (including inner waistband
linings), channeling components / intimates.
Color Change:
Colorfastness to perspiration. Fabric & Garment AATCC 15 (2002) 1  All Fabrics: Grade 3.5
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment, Print & Indigo
Color Staining:
 Grade 2.5
Self Staining:
 Grade 4.0

68 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT, CROCKING, & WATER

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter 10/20 hours;

Lining/Pocketing 5/10 hours; Swimwear 10/20 hours.
Fabric stage unless
garment dyed.  Colors: Grade 3.0 @20 hours
Colorfastness to light. For garment dyed, AATCC 16 Option 3 (2004) 1  White & Neon: Grade 2.5 @20 hours
test at Garment  Swimwear: Grade 3.5 @20 hours
stage  Lining/Pocketing : Grade 3.0 @10 hours
Pass/fail determination is based on full duration. Report the rating at half time
also.
Use AATCC 8 for solids and large prints and use AATCC 116 for prints < 6" to ID
problem color.
Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding Hi-Density and puff prints):
 Dry: Grade 3.5
 Wet: Grade 2.5
AATCC 8 (2005) /
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Fabric & Garment 1 Dry & 1 Wet Raised surface (including sanded, peached or emerized), Pigment, Indigo, sulfur
AATCC 116 (prints) (2005)
black, over-dyed fabric, and hi-density and puff prints):
 Dry: Grade 2.5
 Wet: Grade 1.5
For non contract color combinations
 1.5 with additional care “wash and dry separately”

69 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

Perspir-o-meter. Required on swimwear, outerwear lining fabrics; fabric being

used on color-blocked (multiple fabric) garment only, Yarn Dyed and printed
fabrics.
Color change: 
Color - Grade 3.5 
Print – Grade 3.0
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). Fabric & Garment AATCC 107 (2002) 1
Color Staining:
 Grade 2.5
Self Staining, for Swimwear, Color-blocked (multiple fabric), yarn-dyed and
printed garments only
 Grade 4.0

70 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

COLORFASTNESS TO FUMES, OZONE, POOL WATER, & SEA WATER; BURSTING STRENGTH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fume chamber.
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes.
Fabric & Garment AATCC 23 (2005) 1 White Color only - 1 cycle
[White colors only]
 Grade 3.5
Indigo Dyed - 2-cycles
Colorfastness to ozone. Fabric & Garment AATCC 109 (2005) 1
 Grade 3.5
Dry cleaning cylinder. Test on Swimwear only.
Color change: 
Colorfastness to chlorinated pool Color - Grade 3.5
Fabric AATCC 162 (2002) 1
water.  Print – Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.0
Perspir-o-meter. Test on Swimwear/beachwear only.
Color change: 
Color - Grade 3.5 
Colorfastness to sea water. Print – Grade 3.0
Fabric AATCC 106 (2002) 1
[Swimwear/beachwear only] Color Staining:
 Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.0

71 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

Mullen Burst Tester. Record all and report a average

General:
 < 4.0 oz / sq yd (135gm/m²): 40 PSI
 ≥ 4.0 oz / sq yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
Most Knits: Special Knit (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, Tricot):
 5  20 PSI
Bursting strength. Fabric ASTM D3786 (2001) Lace & Special Strength loss during ageing. For Sulfur Dyed only. Use procedure 7.1 - Oven Test
Knits in AATCC26. Mullen. Record all and report average in lbs and percentage loss.
 10  Accept if the strength loss after steam ageing is within 20% of above fabric
spec.
 Do not accept if the original fabric itself does not meet the required strength
spec and the Labs.
 Should only report % loss due to ageing.

PILLING; PILE RETENTION; STRETCH AND RECOVERY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Random Tumble Pilling - 30 minutes. Report average.

Regular Finished Fabric and all BR products:
 Grade 3.0
Special Finished Fabric (Including Sueded, Brushed, Peached finished fabric;
Pilling resistance. Fabric ASTM D3512 1
Rayon & Rayon Blended Yarns):
 Grade 2.5
Others (Polar Fleece/Sherpa):
 Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test results)
Pile retention. Fur or Faux Fur garment or trim only. Face and back.
[knit velvet, fur, or faux fur only] Fabric GAP INC S1029 1
 1.5%

72 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

For Knitted Fabrics having low-power stretch properties.

Refers to procedure 7.2 on Laboratory Sampling Unit; Apply 5 lbs load.
Measure in stretch direction only.
< 10% Spandex Content:
Stretch & recovery.  Growth - 5% maximum
[Knit textiles w/ spandex. See below for Fabric ASTM D2594 3  Measure Time Dependent Growth & Recovery using 60 minutes. Report both
swimwear and intimates] growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on Growth.
≥ 10% Spandex Content:
 Recovery - 80% Minimum
 Measure Instantaneous Growth and Recovery using 60 seconds. Report both
growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on Recovery.
For Knitted Fabrics with highly stretchable (high-power stretch) properties.
ASTM D4964-96 Modified CRE; Measure & Report Modulus, Elongation and Recovery.
Modification include: 1. Elongation - elongate the specimen to a load of 10 lbs, 3 cycles.
1. Elongate the specimen 2. Recovery - refer to method S1030 to calculate Recovery. Allow the samples
Stretch & recovery. to a load of to relax for 4 hours, measure and report.
10 lbs 3. Load @20%, 40% & 60% elongation.
[For swimwear & intimates with Fabric 3
spandex - all brands] 2. Calculation of
In stretch direction only.
Recovery
Specifications:
3. Calculation of load in
pounds force @ 20%,  Elongation: +/- 10%
40% & 60% Elongation  Recovery: 80% min (after 3-cycles)
 Modulus (lbf @20%, 40% & 60%): +/- 25% of mill specs

SEAM STRETCH; ATTACHMENT STRENGTH FOR POCKETS, BELT LOOPS, BUTTONS, SNAPS, & SMALL PARTS; SNAP/UNSNAP

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

73 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

CRE; Along each seam

All Seams :
 7 lbs or 50% elongation
Side slits:
 10lbs (min)
CPSD-SL-31051-MTHD /
Seam stretchability. Garment All Seams Shoulder Strap to body:
ASTM TS-015
 ≤ 5.0 oz/yd² - 10.0 lbs
 > 5.0 oz/yd² - 15.0 lbs
Bartack, reinforcement, stress points:
 15.0 lbs

CRE, Test one of each type of patch pocket and seam pockets.
Pocket attachment strength. Garment GAP INC S1027 1  Functional: 10 lbs (min)
 Non-Functional: 5 lbs (min)
Test one from the side, front and back
Belt loop attachment strength. Garment ASTM D1683 mod. 3  Thread Belt Loop 10 lbs (min)
 All other Belt Loop: 20 lbs (min)
CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test Light Duty (12-16 Ligne) & Hand-sewn
Snaps - snapping/unsnapping. Garment ASTM D4846 All snap.
 2.0 lbs (min) - 8.0 lbs (max)
CRE or Chatillon + suitable clamping device 
Button attachment strength. Garment GAP INC S1023 All Record ultimate failure and nature of failure 
15.0 lbs for 10 sec.

CRE or SafQ Pulling Tester Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male & female
components)
Snap attachment strength. Garment ASTM D7142 option 2 All
 Record ultimate failure and nature of failure.
 Requirement: 17.0 lbs for 10 sec.

74 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-A)

CRE or Chatillon. Includes all functional/non-functional trims, including soft

decorative trim items
Small parts attachment strength. Garment GAP INC. S1023 All
 Record ultimate failure and nature of failure.
 Requirement: 15.0 lbs for 10 sec.

75 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
KNIT (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (K-C)

(K-C) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; PH; TORQUE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & Balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings. Both
Washed & Non–Washed Fabric:
Fabric weight. Fabric & Garment ASTM D3776 Option C 3
 < 10.0 oz / sq yd & Drop Needle Fabric: +/- 5%
 ≥ 10.0 oz/ sq.yd: +/-3%
Pick Glass; outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings. Both
washed and Non-Washed Fabric.
Fabric construction. Fabric ASTM D3887 (2004) 3
 < 10.0 oz / sq yd & Drop Needle Fabric: +/- 5%
 ≥ 10.0 oz/ sq.yd: +/-3%
Analytical balance; Outside 10% variation, take 2 more readings
Yarn size. Fabric ASTM D 1059 2
 +/- 5% maximum
pH meter. All colors tested at fabric stage. Must be tested when additional
colorfastness tests are required. Test at garment stage when is washed program.
 Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 7.0
 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
pH value. Fabric & Garment AATCC 81 ( 2006) 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5
"White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been treated
with an optical brightener. Includes fabrics, which have up to 50% white.
Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products.
Fabric: Fabric
 AATCC 179 Method 2  Requirement: 5% (Max)
Torque. Fabric & Garment Option 3 (2004) 1 Garment
Garment:  Manual Measure the side seam displacement, calculate % torque as:
 Manual Measure [Displacement / Garment Length from HPS] x 100 
Requirement: 5% (Max)

76 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-

C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Automatic washer / dryer; all linings must show compatible shrinkage to shell.
Shrinkage, All Fabric or Garment Washed Programs
 General: 3.5% x 3.5%
 Rayon (incl Modal & Lyocell): 6.0% x 6.0%
 Other CVS (Poly,Nylon, TC,etc): 2.0% x 2.0%
Fabric: Fabric :
Shrinkage, Non-Washed Programs Only
 AATCC 135 Option 2  3 Each
 General: 6% x 6%
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3- Fabric and (2004) Direction
 Rayon (incl Modal & Lyocell): 8% x 8%
home laundering. Garment Garment: Garment:
 Other CVS (Poly/Nylon/TC,etc) : 3.5% x 3.5%
 AATCC 150 (2003)  1-Each  Others (includes CVC, Fleece/French Terry, Pique/Thermal, Rib,
Direction
Mesh/Lace/Tricot/Raschel): 8% x 8%
Lining compatible with Shell:
 1% x 1%
Growth:
 2% x 2% Maximum
Professional D.C. / Coin op. All linings must be compatible to shrinkage to shell
fabric. Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products and EU Japan destination
Fabric: products.
 3 Each Shrinkage:
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to Direction
Fabric & Garment AATCC 158 (2005)  2% x 2% (max.)
1dry clean. Garment:
Lining compatible with shell:
 1-Each
 1% x 1%
Direction
Growth:
 +0%

C) GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO ACCELERATED LAUNDERING

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

77 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-

Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products.

Fabric
 General assessment, before and after laundering & ironing. No obvious
defects/observations affecting the end product performance & appearance.
Garment
 Evaluate the appearance of both outside & inside of the garment before and
after laundering & ironing.
As per Care Label;  Report comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
AATCC Evaluation  Report any foreign objects or matter (such as tacky or sticky feel on the
General appearance before and after
Procedures 1 and 2. Use inside of a screen print t-shirt or transfer paper left after a heat transfer has
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Fabric & Garment 1 been applied), etc, including exactly what was discovered.
UV Suppressor when
laundering or 1 dry clean).
evaluating for Color  List all observations.
Change
Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness To 3-Home Laundering, rate
with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both Fabric & Garment stages:
Color Change:
 Color: 3.5;
 Pigment/Print/Indigo: 3.0
Self Staining:
 4.0
Launder-o-meter. To replicate Hand laundering and Machine Wash Cold
laundering use AATCC61-1A (40°C); To replicate Machine Wash Warm laundering
use AATCC61- 2A (49°C).
Fabric stage unless Color Change:
garment dyed.  All fabrics: Grade 3.5
Colorfastness to accelerated  Pigment/Print & Indigo: Grade 3.0
For garment dyed, AATCC 61 (Modified) 1
laundering.
test at Garment Color Staining: 
stage All: Grade 3.0
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0

78 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-

79 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-C) COLORFASTNESS TO

DRY CLEANING, BLEACH, & PERSPIRATION

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Dry Cleaning required on all BR Products and all EU/Japan destination products.
Fabric stage unless Launder-o-meter.
garment dyed. Color change:
Colorfastness to dry cleaning. For garment dyed, AATCC 132 (2004) 1  Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
test at Garment  Grade 3.0 – all pigment/Print & Indigo
stage Self- staining:
 Grade 4.5
Fabric stage unless
garment dyed.
Spot test: Sodium Perborate Bleach
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. For garment dyed, GAP INC. S1004 1
 Grade 4.0 – all color
test at Garment
stage
Fabric stage unless
garment dyed. Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach.
For garment dyed, GAP INC. S1003 1 All fabric except Textile with Spandex and functional finishing.
[Except for fabrics with spandex.]
test at Garment  Grade 4.0
stage
All fabrications. Perspir-o-meter.
Daywear, shape wear, active sports apparel, shirts, and children sleepwear -
check fabric, straps, bottom band, hook and eye tape, lining (including inner
waistband linings), channeling components / intimates.
Color Change:
Colorfastness to perspiration. Fabric & Garment AATCC 15 (2002) 1  All Fabrics: Grade 3.5
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment, Print & Indigo
Color Staining:
 Grade 2.5
Self Staining:
 Grade 4.0

LIGHT, CROCKING, & WATER

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

80 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-C) COLORFASTNESS TO

Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter 10/20 hours;

Lining/Pocketing 5/10 hours; Swimwear 10/20 hours.
Fabric stage unless
garment dyed.  Colors: Grade 3.0 @20 hours
Colorfastness to light. For garment dyed, AATCC 16 Option 3 (2004) 1  White & Neon: Grade 2.5 @20 hours
test at Garment  Swimwear: Grade 3.5 @20 hours
stage  Lining/Pocketing : Grade 3.0 @10 hours
Pass/fail determination is based on full duration. Report the rating at half time
also.
Use AATCC 8 for solids and large prints and use AATCC 116 for prints < 6" to ID
problem color.
Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding Hi-Density and puff prints):
 Dry: Grade 3.5
 Wet: Grade 2.5
AATCC 8 (2005) /
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Fabric & Garment 1 Dry & 1 Wet Raised surface (including sanded, peached or emerized), Pigment, Indigo, sulfur
AATCC 116 (prints) (2005)
black, over-dyed fabric, and hi-density and puff prints):
 Dry: Grade 2.5
 Wet: Grade 1.5
For non contract color combinations
 1.5 with additional care “wash and dry separately”
Perspir-o-meter. Required on swimwear, outerwear lining fabrics; fabric being
used on color-blocked (multiple fabric) garment only, Yarn Dyed and printed
fabrics.
Color change: 
Color - Grade 3.5 
Print – Grade 3.0
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). Fabric & Garment AATCC 107 (2002) 1
Color Staining:
 Grade 2.5
Self Staining, for Swimwear, Color-blocked (multiple fabric), yarn-dyed and
printed garments only
 Grade 4.0

81 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-C) COLORFASTNESS TO

FUMES, OZONE, POOL WATER, & SEA WATER; BURSTING STRENGTH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fume chamber.
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes.
Fabric AATCC 23 (2005) 1 White Color only - 1 cycle
[White colors only]
 Grade 3.5
Indigo Dyed - 2-cycles
Colorfastness To ozone. Fabric AATCC 109 (2005) 1
 Grade 3.5
Dry cleaning cylinder. Test on Swimwear only.
Color change: 
Colorfastness to chlorinated pool Color - Grade 3.5
Fabric AATCC 162 (2002) 1
water.  Print – Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.0
Perspir-o-meter. Test on Swimwear/beachwear only.
Color change: 
Color - Grade 3.5 
Colorfastness to sea water. Print – Grade 3.0
Fabric AATCC 106 (2002) 1
[Swimwear/beachwear only] Color Staining:
 Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.0

82 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-C) COLORFASTNESS TO

Mullen Burst Tester. Record all and report a average

General:
 < 4.0 oz / sq yd (135gm/m²): 40 PSI
 ≥ 4.0 oz / sq yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
Most Knits: Special Knit (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, Tricot):
 5  20 PSI
Bursting strength. Fabric ASTM D3786 (2001) Lace & Special Strength loss during ageing. For Sulfur Dyed only. Use procedure 7.1 - Oven Test
Knits in AATCC26. Mullen. Record all and report average in lbs and percentage loss.
 10  Accept if the strength loss after steam ageing is within 20% of above fabric
spec.
 Do not accept if the original fabric itself does not meet the required strength
spec and the Labs.
 Should only report % loss due to ageing.

83 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-

C) PILLING; PILE RETENTION; STRETCH AND RECOVERY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Random Tumble Pilling - 30 minutes. Report average.

Regular Finished Fabric and all BR products:
 Grade 3.0
Special Finished Fabric (Including Sueded, Brushed, Peached finished fabric;
Pilling resistance. Fabric ASTM D3512 (2005) 1
Rayon & Rayon Blended Yarns):
 Grade 2.5
Others (Polar Fleece/Sherpa):
 Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test results)
Pile retention. Fur or Faux Fur garment or trim only. Face and back.
Fabric GAP INC S1029 1
[knit velvet, fur, or faux fur only]  1.5%
For Knitted Fabrics having low-power Stretch Properties.
Refers to procedure 7.2 on Laboratory Sampling Unit; Apply 5 lbs load.
In stretch direction only.
< 10% Spandex Content:
Stretch & recovery.  Growth - 5% maximum
[Knit textiles w/ spandex. See below for Fabric ASTM D2594 (2004) 3  Measure Time Dependent Growth & Recovery using 60 minutes. Report both
swimwear and intimates] growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on Growth.
≥ 10% Spandex Content:
 Recovery: 80% Minimum
 Measure Instantaneous Growth and Recovery using 60 seconds. Report both
growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on Recovery.

84 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-

ASTM D4964-96 Modified For Knitted Fabrics with highly stretchable (high-power stretch) properties.
(2004) CRE; Measure & Report Modulus, Elongation and Recovery.
Modification include: 1. Elongation - elongate the specimen to a load of 10 lbs, 3 cycles.
1. Elongate the specimen 2. Recovery - refer to method S1030 to calculate Recovery. Allow the samples
Stretch & recovery. to a load of to relax for 4 hours, measure and report.
[For swimwear & intimates with Fabric 10 lbs 3 3. Load @20%, 40% & 60% elongation.
spandex - all brands] 2. Calculation of In stretch direction only.
Recovery
Specifications:
3. Calculation of load in
 Elongation: +/- 10%
pounds force @ 20%,
 Recovery: 80% min (after 3-cycles)
40% & 60% Elongation
 Modulus (lbf @20%, 40% & 60%): +/- 25% of mill specs

C) SEAM STRETCH; ATTACHMENT STRENGTH FOR POCKETS & BELT LOOPS; SNAP/UNSNAP

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

CRE; Along each seam

All Seams :
 7 lbs or 50% elongation
Side slits:
 10lbs (min)
CPSD-SL-31051-MTHD /
Seam stretchability. Garment All Seams Shoulder Strap to body:
ASTM TS-015
 ≤ 5.0 oz/yd² - 10.0 lbs
 > 5.0 oz/yd² - 15.0 lbs
Bartack, reinforcement, stress points:
 15.0 lbs

CRE, Test one of each type of patch pocket and seam pockets.
Pocket attachment strength. Garment GAP INC S1027 1  Functional 10 lbs (min)
 Non-Functional 5 lbs (min)

85 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Test one from the side, front and back
Belt loop attachment strength. Garment ASTM D1683 mod. 3  Thread Belt Loop 10 lbs (min)
 All other Belt Loop 20 lbs (min)
CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test Light Duty (12-16 Ligne) & Hand-sewn
Snaps - snapping/unsnapping. Garment ASTM D4846 All snap.
 2.0 lbs (min) - 8.0 lbs (max)

ADDENDUM TO KNIT ADULT’S AND KNIT CHILDREN’S PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS (K-ADD)

(K-ADD) ADULT AND CHILDREN’S KNITS - EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

FIBER CONTENT EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTION

General MWW, TDL
Cotton / Synthetic MWC, TDL
Synthetic Fleece MWC, TDL, Do not Iron
Synthetic Fibers (with & without Spandex) (MWC, TDL, GC) OR (MWC, LD) OR (HW, LD)
Warp Knit with Spandex (Raschel, Tricot, Lace, Mesh) (MWC, TDL, GC) OR (HW, LD) OR (DC only)
Rayon (with & without Spandex, inc. Modal and Lyocell) (HWC, LD) OR (HWC, Reshape, DF) OR (DC only)
Swimwear (CVC & CVS) (MWC, LD) or (HW, LD)

ABBREVIATION MEANING
MWW Machine Wash Warm
MWC Machine Wash Cold
HW Hand Wash
HWC Hand Wash Cold
TDL Tumble Dry Low
LD Line Dry
DF Dry Flat
DC Dry Clean
GC Gentle Cycle

86 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-

ADD) ADULT AND CHILDREN’S KNITS - SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

The sample size requirements assume the required number will be sent in one color. For styles with multiple colors, please send the additional samples as noted per color.
Sample size requirements may vary depending on garment construction or type of testing requested.
The vendor is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, representing bulk production, in all styles and all colors purchased, to an approved Testing Laboratory for
evaluation accompanied by the completed appropriated Gap Inc Test Request Form (TRF).

PRODUCT GROUP REQUIREMENTS

Minimum
 3 yards of 1 color; 1 yard for each additional color
Spray Test or Oil Repellency:
Textile Testing
 1 additional yard
Additional Dry Cleaning tests for Banana Republic:
 1 additional yard

Minimum
 4 garments for Adult, 6 garments for Children & Infants or small garments plus 1 per additional color.
Swimwear
 6 garments for Adult, 8 garments for Children & Infants; plus 1 garment for each additional color.
Spray Test or Oil Repellency:
 1 additional garment or 2 additional small garments.
Garment Testing
Suplur Dyed:
 1 additional garment
Additional Dry Cleaning tests for Banana Republic:
 1 additional garment
Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing:
 1 additional garment

87 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Minimum
Children's Sleepwear  6 garments; plus 1 per additional color.
Garments Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing:
 1 additional garment

SWEATER (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (S-A)

(S-A) WEIGHT; APPEARANCE; TORQUE; BUTTONS; SNAPS; SMALL PARTS; PILE; STRETCH; PH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Garment weight. Garment Std. Measure 1  As Claimed (+/- 5%)
Fabric weight. Garment ASTM D3776 Option C 1  As Claimed (+/- 5%)
 No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
General appearance before and after performance/appearance, satisfactory performance of the components and
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Garment As per Care Label 1 trims and even distribution (no matting/shifting) of fill material for quilted
laundering or 1 dry clean). garments.
 List all observations.
AATCC 179
Torque. Garment 1  5.0% max
Method 1, Option 1
Button attachment strength. Garment GAP INC. S1023 1  17.0 lbs for 10 sec. Minimum
Snap attachment strength. Garment ASTM D7142 option 2 1  17.0 lbs for 10 sec. Minimum
All Incl. all functional / non-functional trims, soft decorative trim items)
Small parts attachment strength. Garment GAP INC. S1023 components  17.0 lbs for 10 sec. Minimum
Fastener Class Requirement
Top stop attachment strength of open end
Garment GAP INC. S1023 3  Class 3 or below - 15.0 lbs for 10 seconds
zippers (open end zippers only).
 Above Class 3 - 17.0 lbs for 10 seconds
Pile retention.  Face = Grade 3.5 min
Garment ASTM D 4685 1
[Knit velvet, fur, or faux fur only]  Back = Grade 3.0 min

88 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(K-

Stretch & recovery.  < 10% spandex: report growth and recovery after 60 min. Growth < 5%
[Only for fabrics containing more than 5% Garment ASTM D 2594 1  > 10% spandex: report growth and recovery after 60 sec.
elastomeric yarns (contracted basis)] Recovery > 85%

 Whites (except Nylon & Protein): 5.5 - 6.5

 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 – 7
pH value. Garment AATCC 81 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5

89 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 A) C/F TO ACCEL LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO LIGHT

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Color Change:
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Color Staining: 
Grade 3.0 (for all)
Colorfastness to accelerated laundering. Garment AATCC 61 (modified) 1
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0
Self staining specification applies to color block and prints
Use AATCC 61-1A (40°C) for Hand Wash & Machine Wash Cold and 2A (49°C)
for Machine Warm Wash
Color change:
 Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
Colorfastness to dry cleaning. Garment AATCC 132 1
 Grade 3.0 – all pigment/print & indigo
 Grade 4.5 – pigment prints
Color change :
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach.
Garment Gap S-1003 1  Grade 4.0 – all colors
[Except for fabrics with spandex.]
Spot test: Sodium Perborate Bleach
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Color change :
[All fabric except textile with spandex Garment Gap S-1004 1  Grade 4.0
and/or functional finishing] Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach
Most Fabrics
 Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
 Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Garment AATCC 8 / 116 1 EXCEPTIONS: Pigment dyes, peached, microsand, sueded, prints regardless of
Dyestuffs/Fabrication and dyes
 Dry: Grade 2.5 minimum
 Wet: Grade 1.5 minimum

90 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(S-

 Colors : Grade 3.0 @20 AFU

 White / Neon : Grade 2.5 @20 AFU
Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Swimwear: Grade 3.5 @ 20 AFU
 Silk : Grade 3.0 @ 10 AFU
 Lining : Grade 3.0 @ 10 AFU

(S-A) C/F TO LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO GAS FUMES; C/F TO OZONE; C/F TO WATER; C/F TO PERSPIRE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Color Change :
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Colorfastness to laundering or hand wash.
Color Staining: 
[Exclude foils prints/glitter prints or similar Garment As per care label 1
Grade 3.0 (for all)
fabrics]
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0
Self staining specification applies to color block and prints
Color change:
 Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
Colorfastness to commercial dry clean. Garment As per care label 1
 Grade 3.0 – all pigment/Print & Indigo
 Grade 4.5 - Pigment prints
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes.
Garment AATCC 23 1  Grade 3.5 (1 Cycle)
[White colors only]
Colorfastness To ozone.
Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Grade 3.5 (2 Cycle)
[Indigo dyed only]

91 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Color Change:
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). Garment AATCC 107 1 Color Staining: 
Grade 3.0 (for all)
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0 (Test at Garment Stage for Color-blocked program only)
Color Change:
 Grade 3.5 – all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Colorfastness to perspiration. Garment AATCC 15 1 Color Staining: 
Grade 3.0 (for all)
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0 (Test at Garment Stage for Color-blocked program only)

A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; BURSTING; SEAM STRETCH; PILLING

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Shrinkage Specifications
 Cotton : 5.0% x 3.5%
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3-  Delicate fibers/rayon : 5.0% x 5.0%
Garment AATCC 150 1  Wool : 5.0% x 5.0%  Others : 3.5% x 3.5% Growth :
home laundering.
 2.0% x 2.0% maximum

Shrinkage : 
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 1-dry 2.0% x 2.0%
Garment AATCC 158 1
clean. Growth:
 1.0% x 1.0% maximum

92 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(S-

 Cotton : 50 psi
 Delicate fibers (silk/lambs' wool/cashmere) : 35 psi
Bursting strength. Garment ASTM D3786 5  Wool and animal hairs : 45 psi
 Synthetic fibers : 70 psi
 Lace/mesh : 20 psi
Seam stretchability. Garment ASTM D1683 mod 1  7.0 lbs or 50.0% elongation
Pilling resistance. IWS 152
[Only sweaters containing 50% or more Lambs Wool/Cashmere :
All products:
animal fibers (excluding silk). See below for Garment  2 hrs - 7,200 rev. All colors
 Grade 3.0
method for other fabrics. ] Others :
 4 hrs - 14,400 rev.
Pilling resistance.
All products:
[All Other Fiber Types (including sweaters Garment ASTM D3512 (30 mins) 3
containing less than 50% animal fibers)]  Grade 3.0

SWEATER (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (S-C)

(S-C) WEIGHT; APPEARANCE; TORQUE; BUTTONS; SNAPS; SMALL PARTS; PILE; STRETCH; PH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Garment weight. Garment Std. Measure 1  As Claimed (+/- 5%)
Fabric weight. Garment ASTM D3776 Option C 1  As Claimed (+/- 5%)
 No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
General appearance before and after performance/appearance, satisfactory performance of the components and
laundering or dry cleaning (3 home Garment As per Care Label 1 trims and even distribution (no matting/shifting) of fill material for quilted
laundering or 1 dry clean). garments.
 List all observations.
AATCC 179
Torque. Garment 1  5.0% max
Method 1, Option 1
Pile retention.  Face = Grade 3.5 min
Garment ASTM D 4685 1
[Knit velvet, fur, or faux fur only]  Back = Grade 3.0 min

93 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
Stretch & recovery.  < 10% spandex: report growth and recovery after 60 min. Growth < 5%
[Only for fabrics containing more than 5% Garment ASTM D 2594 1  > 10% spandex: report growth and recovery after 60 sec.
elastomeric yarns (contracted basis)] Recovery > 85%

 Whites (except Nylon & Protein): 5.5 - 6.5

 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 – 7
pH value. Garment AATCC 81 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5

C) C/F TO ACCEL LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO CROCKING; C/F TO LIGHT

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Color Change:
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Color Staining: 
Grade 3.0 (for all)
Colorfastness to accelerated laundering. Garment AATCC 61 (modified) 1
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0
Self staining specification applies to color block and prints
Use AATCC 61-1A (40°C) for Hand Wash & Machine Wash Cold and 2A (49°C)
for Machine Warm Wash
Color change:
 Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
Colorfastness to dry cleaning. Garment AATCC 132 1
 Grade 3.0 – all pigment/print & indigo
 Grade 4.5 – pigment prints
Color change :
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach.
Garment Gap S-1003 1  Grade 4.0 – all colors
[Except for fabrics with spandex.]
Spot test: Sodium Perborate Bleach

94 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(S-

Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Color change :

[All fabric except textile with spandex Garment Gap S-1004 1  Grade 4.0
and/or functional finishing] Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach
Most Fabrics
 Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
 Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Garment AATCC 8 / 116 1 EXCEPTIONS: Pigment dyes, peached, microsand, sueded, prints regardless of
Dyestuffs/Fabrication and dyes
 Dry: Grade 2.5 minimum
 Wet: Grade 1.5 minimum
 Colors : Grade 3.0 @20 AFU
 White / Neon : Grade 2.5 @20 AFU
Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Swimwear: Grade 3.5 @ 20 AFU
 Silk : Grade 3.0 @ 10 AFU
 Lining : Grade 3.0 @ 10 AFU

95 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(S-

C) C/F TO LAUNDER; C/F TO DRY CLEAN; C/F TO GAS FUMES; C/F TO OZONE; C/F TO WATER; C/F TO PERSPIRE

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Color Change :
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Colorfastness to laundering or hand wash.
Color Staining: 
[Exclude foils prints/glitter prints or similar Garment As per care label 1
Grade 3.0 (for all)
fabrics]
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0
Self staining specification applies to color block and prints
Color change:
 Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
Colorfastness to commercial dry clean. Garment As per care label 1
 Grade 3.0 – all pigment/Print & Indigo
 Grade 4.5 - Pigment prints
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes.
Garment AATCC 23 1  Grade 3.5 (1 Cycle)
[White colors only]
Colorfastness To ozone.
Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Grade 3.5 (2 Cycle)
[Indigo dyed only]
Color Change:
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). Garment AATCC 107 1 Color Staining: 
Grade 3.0 (for all)
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0 (Test at Garment Stage for Color-blocked program only)

96 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(S-

Color Change:
 Grade 3.5 – all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Colorfastness to perspiration. Garment AATCC 15 1 Color Staining: 
Grade 3.0 (for all)
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0 (Test at Garment Stage for Color-blocked program only)

C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; BURSTING; SEAM STRETCH; PILLING

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Shrinkage Specifications
 Cotton : 5.0% x 3.5%
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3-  Delicate fibers/rayon : 5.0% x 5.0%
Garment AATCC 150 1  Wool : 5.0% x 5.0%  Others : 3.5% x 3.5% Growth :
home laundering.
 2.0% x 2.0% maximum

Shrinkage : 
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 1-dry 2.0% x 2.0%
Garment AATCC 158 1
clean. Growth:
 1.0% Maximum
 Cotton : 50 psi
 Delicate fibers (silk/lambs' wool/cashmere) : 35 psi
Bursting strength. Garment ASTM D3786 5  Wool and animal hairs : 45 psi
 Synthetic fibers : 70 psi
 Lace/mesh : 20 psi

97 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
Seam stretchability. Garment ASTM D1683 mod 1  7.0 lbs or 50.0% elongation
Pilling resistance. IWS 152
[Only sweaters containing 50% or more Lambs Wool/Cashmere :
All products:
animal fibers (excluding silk). See below for Garment  2 hrs - 7,200 rev. All colors
 Grade 3.0
method for other fabrics. ] Others :
 4 hrs - 14,400 rev.
Pilling resistance.
All products:
[All Other Fiber Types (including sweaters Garment ASTM D3512 (30 mins) 3
containing less than 50% animal fibers)]  Grade 3.0

ADDENDUM FOR ADULT’S SWEATERS AND CHILDREN’S SWEATERS PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS (S-ADD)

(S-ADD) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

FIBER CONTENT EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTION

Cotton Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, tumble dry low

Delicate Fibers (silk / lambs' wool / cashmere / rayon) Hand wash, reshape and dry flat, or, dry clean

Wool and animal hairs Hand wash cold, reshape and dry flat, or, dry clean

Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, or, hand wash, reshape and
Synthetic (acrylic / nylon / spandex)
dry flat, or, Dry clean

(S-ADD) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

Minimum sample size:

 4 garments; 6 for smaller cuts or vests; plus 2 per additional color Sulphur Dyed:

98 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(S-

 1 additional garment; Additional Dry Cleaning tests for Banana Republic: 1 additional garment Heat
Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing:
 1 additional garment

99 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
TRIM PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (TRIM)

(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ALL TRIMS (1/1)

See below requirements for sample size by trim type. If any confusion about sample size, contact your local Gap approved laboratory for advice.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
All BR products and all products for EU or Japan markets need dry cleaning.
General appearance before and after
 No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
laundering or dry cleaning (5 home Trim 1
PER CARE LABEL performance/appearance, color change/staining, satisfactory performance
laundering or 1 dry clean).
of the components and trims. List all observations
Colorfastness to chlorinated pool water. Dry cleaning cylinder (test on swimwear only)
Trim AATCC 162 All
[If applicable]  Color change : 3.5
Colorfastness to sea water. Perspir-o-meter (test on swimwear only) 
Trim AATCC 106 All
[If applicable, swimwear/beachwear only] Color change : 3.5

(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (1/3)
Minimum sample size for ELASTICS: 5 yards plus 3 additional yards per additional color. | Minimum sample size for WOVEN LABEL: 50 labels. Mount all specimens on report. | Minimum sample size
for TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, & WEBBING: 3 yards plus 1.5 yards per additional color. | Minimum sample size for APPLIQUÉ, EMBROIDERY, & PATCHES: 30 pieces per color plus 2 production
quality samples with factory applied transfers/components. For paper transferred flock, submit 2 square feet of sample per color plus 2 production quality samples with factory applied paper
transferred flock.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 5-home
Trim AATCC 135 1  5% maximum change in length only
laundering.
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 1-dry
Trim AATCC 158 1  3% maximum change in length only
clean.
Non-functional trim
Tensile strength. Trim ASTM D5034 3
 15 lbs

Stretch & recovery.  Recovery: 85% minimum

Trim Modified ASTM D4964 3
[Elastics only]  Record tension at 20, 40, 60 and 80% elongation

100 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

Model C:
 20 PSI minimum
Bursting strength. If no burst in Model C, apply the penetrating rod for reporting the rupture of lace
Trim ASTM D3786 5
[Optional for lace/open construction laces.] in loose/dense portion of laces, report 5 readings and pass/fail based on lowest
result,
 Requirement : 20.0 lbs minimum

APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (2/3)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Color Change :
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Color Staining: 
Grade 3.0 (for all)
Colorfastness to accelerated laundering. Trim AATCC 61 (modified) 1
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0
 Self staining specification applies to color block and prints
Use AATCC 61-1A (40°C) for Hand Wash & Machine Wash Cold and 2A
(49°C) for Machine Warm Wash
Color change:
 Grade 4
Colorfastness to dry cleaning. Staining:
Trim AATCC 132 1
[If applicable]  Grade 3
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.5

101 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

Color Change:
 Grade 3.5 - all fabrics
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment / Print & Indigo
Colorfastness to laundering or hand wash. Color Staining: 
[Exclude foil prints/glitter prints or similar Garment PER CARE LABEL 1
Grade 3.0 (for all)
fabrics.]
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0
Self staining specification applies to color block and prints
Color change:
 Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
Colorfastness to commercial dry clean. Garment PER CARE LABEL 1
 Grade 3.0 – all pigment/Print & Indigo
 Grade 4.5 - Pigment prints

APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (3/3)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Color change:
Trim BV S-1003 1
[Except for fabrics with spandex.]  Grade 4
Color change:
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Trim BV S-1004 1
 Grade 4
Dry:
Trim &  Grade 4
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). AATCC 8 / 116 1
Garment Wet:
 Grade 3
Color change
Trim &
Colorfastness to light. AATCC 16,Option 3 1  General: Grade 3.5 @ 20 hours
Garment
 Neon, white, Silks: Grade 3.0 @10 hours

102 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

Color change:
 Grade 4.0
Trim & Staining: 
Colorfastness to perspiration. AATCC 15 1
Garment Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.5
Color change:
 Grade 4.0
Trim & Staining:
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). AATCC 107 1
Garment  Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.5
 Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 6.5
 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
pH value. Trim AATCC 81 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5

103 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

APPLICABLE TO SNAPS, EYELETS, AND RIVETS

Below is in addition to the testing for all trim types. Components must be submitted attached to bulk fabric in the same manner as in production. Minimum sample size of 72 per color plus 72 sets
of applied snaps.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
 Withstand 24 hours in 1% salt spray (fog) with no major corrosion or visual
Resistance to corrosion.
Trim ASTM B117 (Modified) 1 change.
[Metal components only]
 Modification = 1% salt (fog) spray.
Attachment Strength (Snaps) Trim /
[Performance for Adult Only] Garment ASTM D 7142, option 2 All  17.0 lbs Minimum

Snapping / Unsnapping Force (Light duty

Trim /  Minimum: 2.0 lbs
snap only) BV S 1045 2
Garment  Maximum: 8.0 lbs
[Performance for Adult Only]

(TRIM) APPLICABLE TO BUTTONS & BEADS

Below is in addition to the testing for all trim types. Submit 3 dozen of each color/ size. Buttons must be submitted attached to bulk fabric in the same manner as in production.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sublimation. BV S 1056 (EMSIG method) Color Staining: 
[Dyed buttons] Trim 30 sec 3 Grade 4.5

Mold Count. Bacteriological analytical

[Wooden trim only] Trim method 1  ≤1000 CFU

Moisture Content.
Trim Oven Dry Method 1  8-12%
[Wooden trim only]
Attachment Strength Trim /
BV S-1023 All  15 lbs Minimum (Adult)
[Performance test for Adult Only] Garment

104 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

CRE; insert break strength / Record all readings / Report highest, lowest
and average. Pass or fail should be based on lowest result. Requirement by
Ligne Size:
Button Center Strength
Trim BS 4162 Sec. 4.0 mod. 15  <20: 17.0 lbs.
[Performance for Adults]
 20 to 25: 20.0 lbs.
 26 to 36: 25.0 lbs.
 >37: 30.0 lbs.

BUCKLE, HASP & SLIDER, HOOK & EYE

Below is in addition to the testing for all trim types. Minimum sample size of 40. Mount specimens on report.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

 Withstand 24 hours in 1% salt spray (fog) with no major corrosion or visual
Resistance to corrosion.
Trim ASTM B117 (modified) 1 change.
[Metal components only.]
 Modification = 1% salt (fog) spray.
 15 lbs
Hook pull out strength. Trim ASTM D1683 (modified) 1  Modification: Expanded scope to cover component

 30 lbs
Hook and eye tension. Trim ASTM D1683 (modified) 1
 Modification: Expanded scope to cover component
 Metal buckle – 40 lbs
Lateral tension strength. Trim Gap Inc S1011 3  Plastic buckle – 25 lbs
 D-Rings and Suspender clip - 75.0 lbs

CRE; Record all readings, Report highest / lowest / average;

Pull test (Rings and Sliders)
Trim /  Plastic Rings and Sliders: min 20 lbs (pass or fail should be based on the
[Performance test for Adult Only] GAP INC. S1011 10
Garment lowest result, not the average)
 All other Rings and Sliders: min 40 lbs., average

105 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

ZIPPERS
Below is in addition to the testing for all trim types. Minimum sample size: 35, plus an additional 10 for each additional color. Add 30 more samples if heavy metal testing is needed. See end of TRIM
section for specification chart “#zipper 4000” referenced in these tables.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Open / close strength
Zipper operability. Trim ASTM D2062 5  Should follow the test requirement as per #zipper 4000
 Shall not be accessible without two actions to operate

Slider lock hold. Trim ASTM D2061 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.

Single element strength. Trim ASTM D 2061 10  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.

Chain crosswise strength. Trim ASTM D2061 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.

Top Stop Strength ASTM D2061

Trim 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.
[Performance for Adult Only] Section 22.2
Bottom Stop Pull Off
Trim ASTM D2061 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000
[Performance for Adult Only]
Zipper Tab Pull-Off Strength (90°) ASTM D2061  CRE; Record all readings, Report highest / lowest / average.
Trim 5
[Performance for Adult Only] Section 68.1  Should follow the test requirement as per #zipper 4000
Zipper Tab Twist-Off Strength –
 CRE; Record all readings, Report highest / lowest / average.
Zipper Tab Twist Method Trim GAP INC. S1046 5
 Should follow the test requirement as per #zipper 4000
[Performance for Adult Only]

(TRIM) GARMENT SIZE STICKERS

Minimum sample size: 6 stickers with fabric/garment.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

106 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

48 hours @ 95% rh and 140°F

(3) fabric specimens  No adverse effects or visual change
Effects of extreme heat and humidity. Trim GAP Inc S-1044
with stickers for 48 hrs.  Report amount of visual and non-visual adhesive residue and changes in
physical appearance of the sticker and fabric substrate.

POMPOMS AND TASSELS (1/2)

Minimum sample size: 20 per color plus 6 per additional color. Mount all test specimens on report.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Launder-o-meter. To replicate machine wash cold use Test 1A. To
replicate machine wash warm use Test 2A. Color Change
 4.0 Rating
Color Staining
Colorfastness to accelerated laundering. Trim AATCC 61 All
 3.0
Self Staining
 4.5

 Wet: Class 2.5

Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Trim AATCC 116 All  Dry: Class 3.5 minimum

Attachment Strength (Whole pompom/ 5 Pieces, 1

Trim / CRE.
tassel) GAP INC. S1023 Pull Per
Garment  Must withstand pull force of 17 lbs. / 10 seconds.
[Performance test for adult only] Piece

107 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

POMPOMS AND TASSELS (2/2)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. [All Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite bleach
except for pompons and tassels with Trim GAP INC. S1003 All Color change
spandex.]  4.0
Spot test: Sodium Perborate bleach
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Trim GAP INC. S1004 All Color change :  4.0

(TRIM) FILL MATERIAL AND PRE-MADE PADS (PERFORM ON ENCASED FILL ONLY)
Minimum sample size: 2 yards of 1 color; 1 yard for each additional color or 12 pads.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and all products for EU or Japan
Appearance after laundering or dry markets.
Trim Per care label All
cleaning. Specification:
 No bunching, fusing, tearing; check fiber migration through the fill’s cover.
Fume chamber (Whites and Colors): 1 cycle; Test all colors
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes. Trim AATCC 23 1 Color change
 3.5
Effect of heat aging. Conditions: 170 F for 6 hours
[Foam Pads Only] Trim GAP INC. S1025 1
 No visual change

HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS

Minimum sample size: 50 per color.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

108 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM)

Sew one pair of hook and loop on plain muslin. Fasten components before
washing.
After first machine wash and
Lint and grab resistance. Trim 1  Check each component after washing (Machine wash warm, tumble dry
dry clean cycle
medium) and dry cleaning (1 commercial dry cleaning) for detachment
during cleaning and if it gathers lint.
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. [All Spot test Sodium Hypochlorite bleach
except for pompons and tassels with Trim GAP INC. S1003 All Color change:  4.0
spandex.]
Spot test Sodium Perborate bleach
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Trim GAP INC. S1004 All Color change:  4.0

Perspir-o-meter Color
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). Trim AATCC 107 All change:
 3.5

(TRIM) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

For all trims: Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium

109 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(TRIM) ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (1/2)

FASTENER CLASS 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10

Closed Chain Width (in) .125-.180 .125-.180 .180-.310 .180-.310 .310-.390 .320-.500

Tape Width (in) 7/16-9/16 7/16-9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0

Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 14.1

Brass/Nickel 66.0 121.0 132.0 143.0 165.0 165.0

Aluminum 52.8 77.0 77.0 88.0 110.0 110.0

Plastic 52.8 59.4 77.0 77.0 110.0 132.0

CEF 66.0 77.0 132.0 154.0 176.0 220.0

Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 30.3

Brass/Nickel 15.4 19.8 22.0 33.0 48.4 48.4

Aluminum 15.4 15.4 26.4 33.0 48.4 48.4

Plastic 15.4 19.8 26.4 26.4 50.6 50.6

CEF 15.4 17.6 26.4 37.4 44.0 50.6

Single Element Pull-Off Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 14.2

Brass/Nickel 6.6 12.1 13.2 17.6 24.2 24.2

Aluminum 5.3 7.7 7.7 11.0 16.5 16.5
Plastic 5.3 5.5 9.9 9.9 17.6 19.8

Single Element Slippage (lbf, min) ASTM D2 061; 14.3

110 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
Brass/Nickel 5.3 8.8 9.9 9.9 18.7 18.7
Aluminum 5.3 5.5 6.2 9.9 16.5 16.5
Plastic 5.3 7.1 11.0 11.0 15.4 22.0

Slider Lockhold (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 87.1

Brass/Nickel 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4

Aluminum 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Plastic 3.5 5.5 7.7 13.2 13.2 15.4
CEF 4.4 4.4 11.0 13.2 15.4 15.4

Tab Pull-Off Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2 061; 68.1

Brass/Nickel 22.0 22.0 33.0 44.0 66.0 66.0
Aluminum 22.0 22.0 39.6 44.0 66.0 66.0
Plastic 22.0 22.0 39.6 39.6 44.0 66.0
CEF 17.6 17.6 39.6 44.0 55.0 66.0

(TRIM) ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (2/2)

FASTENER CLASS 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10

Tab Twist-Off Strength (in-lbs.)-Zipper Tab Twist Method GAP INC. S1046
STANDARD PULL-TAB

Brass/Nickel 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8

Aluminum 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Plastic 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
CEF 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8

DECORATIVE PULL-TAB

111 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Brass/Nickel 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Aluminum 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Plastic 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
CEF 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8

Operability (open/close) (lbf, max) ASTM D2 062; 16

Brass/Nickel 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.6 1.8 1.8
Aluminum 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.6 1.8 1.8
Plastic 1.1 1.1 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.0
CEF 1.1 0.9 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.0

Top Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D20 61; 22.2

Brass/Nickel 15.4 19.8 22.0 28.6 39.6 39.6
Aluminum 15.4 17.6 22.0 22.0 22.0 22.0
Plastic 17.6 17.6 22.0 26.4 44.0 44.0
CEF 13.2 13.2 26.4 28.6 50.6 39.6

Bottom Stop Strength – Stringer separation (lbf, min) ASTM D2 061; 22.5
Brass/Nickel 8.4 17.6 17.6 22.0 33.0 33.0
Aluminum 7.7 12.1 15.4 15.4 22.0 22.0
Plastic 11.0 11.0 19.8 22.0 22.0 22.0
CEF 6.6 8.8 19.8 22.0 55.0 39.6

LEATHER (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (L-A)

(L-A) COMPONENT PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

112 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Xenon-Arc Fade-O-Meter, 10/20 hours
Finished Hide/
Colorfastness to light. AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Leather: Class 3.0 @20hrs
Whole Product
 Nubuck/Sued: Class 2.5 @20hrs
Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints <6" to
ID problem color Plain surface
 Dry: 2.5
1 Dry;  Wet: 2.0
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Finished Hide AATCC8/116
1 Wet Raised/Distressed surface (Suede, Nubuck, splits)
 Dry: 2.0
 Wet: 1.5

CRE record all-report average

Specifications by thickness:
Finished  Less than 0.6 mm: 2 x 2 lbs
2 Each
Tear strength. Hide/Whole ASTM D 4704-00 (2005)  0.6 to 0.8mm: 3 x 3 lbs
Direction
Product  0.81 to 1.0mm: 4 x 4 lbs
 1.01 to 1.2mm: 5 x 5 lbs
 1.21 to 1.4mm: 6 x 6 lbs

Perspir-o-meter: lining (including inner waist band lining) If applicable. Color

change:
Colorfastness to perspiration.  Fabric: Class 3.5  Prints: Class 3.0
Whole Product AATCC 15 1
[Lining only.] Multi-fiber staining:
 Class 3.0

pH meter: all colorways tested. Must be tested when colorfastness tests only are
pH value. Finished Hide AATCC 81 1 requested.  4.0-7.0

After drying the 0.15 ml water on the leather on the room temperature, check
Water spotting.
Finished Hide AATCC 104 1 the color change
[For aniline only.]
 Color change: Class 3.5
Flex resistance.
Finished Hide ASTM D 6182-00 1  20,000 cycles - No cracking
[Pigment only.]

113 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(L-A) WHOLE PRODUCT PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Shell Seam
 Top: 25 lbs  Bottom: 30 lbs
Lining Seam:
 20 lbs
Pocket attachment strength
ASTM D 1683
Functional seam strength. Whole Product 1  Functional: 20 lbs
Gap S 1027
 Decorative: 15 lbs
Belt Loop Attachment strength
 Thread Loop : 10 lbs
 General: 20 lbs

Professional leather cleaning:

1 Each
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning. Whole Product Professional Leather Cleaning  Shell: -2% max
Direction
 All linings should be compatible with shell fabric with ± 1%
Professional assessment:
 Color Change: Class 4.0
 Self staining: Class 4.5
General appearance after dry cleaning. Whole Product Professional Leather Cleaning 1
 General Appearance: Satisfactory
Observations:
 Record text comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test light duty snaps (12-16 ligne)
Snaps – snapping/unsnapping. Whole Product ASTM D4846 All  2.0 to 8.0 lbs

CRE or Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male & female components). Record
Snap attachment strength. Whole Product GAP INC. SAFQ SOP All ultimate failure and nature of failure.
 17 lbs for 10 sec.
CRE or Chatillon + suitable clamping device 
Button attachment strength. Whole Product Gap INC S1023 All Record ultimate failure and nature of failure 
17 lbs for 10 sec.

114 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 16 CFR 1500 Section 51-53 CRE or Chatillon. Includes all functional/non-functional trims, including
soft decorative trim items (record ultimate failure and nature of failure). 
Small parts attachment strength. Whole Product (Modified) / ASTM F963 All
17 lbs for 10 sec.
Section 4.6-4.7 & 4.9

(L-A) SPECIAL CLAIM/PURPOSE (ADDITIONAL TESTING REQUESTED DEPENDED ON STYLING)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Corrosion resistance of metal components.  Withstand 24 hours in 1% salt spary(fog) with no major corrosion or visual
Component ASTM B 117 (Modified) 1
[Only if requested.] change.

Peel & shear strength of hook & loop ASTM D 5169-98  Peel = 0.4 lbs/inch
Component 1 Set
fasteners. ASTM D 5170-98  Shear = 10.0 X 5.5 lbs/in2 test at original

ASTM D 2061-03
Zipper performance. Ref: Test
Component ASTM D 2062  Must comply with standards
[Only if requested.] Method
Gap Inc. S1046

(L-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Professional leather clean only.

(L-A) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

 Adult & Kids: 2 pieces/1piece for additional color
 Baby : 4 pieces/2 pieces for additional color

115 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
LEATHER (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (L-C)

(L-C) COMPONENT PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Xenon-Arc Fade-O-Meter, 10/20 hours
Finished Hide &
Colorfastness to light. AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Leather: Class 3.0 @20hrs
Whole Product
 Nubuck/Sued: Class 2.5 @20hrs
Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints <6" to
ID problem color Plain surface
 Dry: 2.5
1 Dry;  Wet: 2.0
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Finished Hide AATCC8/116
1 Wet Raised/Distressed surface (Suede, Nubuck, splits)
 Dry: 2.0
 Wet: 1.5

CRE record all-report average

Specifications by thickness:
 Less than 0.6 mm: 2 x 2 lbs
Finished Hide & 2 Each
Tear strength. ASTM D 4704-00 (2005)  0.6 to 0.8mm: 3 x 3 lbs
Whole Product Direction
 0.81 to 1.0mm: 4 x 4 lbs
 1.01 to 1.2mm: 5 x 5 lbs
 1.21 to 1.4mm: 6 x 6 lbs

Perspir-o-meter: lining (including inner waist band lining) If applicable. Color

change:
Colorfastness to perspiration.  Fabric: Class 3.5  Prints: Class 3.0
Whole Product AATCC 15 1
[Lining only.] Multi-fiber staining:
 Class 3.0

pH meter: all colorways tested. Must be tested when colorfastness tests only are
pH value. Finished Hide AATCC 81 1 requested.  4.0-7.0

116 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Ater drying the 0.15 ml water on the leather on the room temperature, check
Water spotting.
Finished Hide AATCC 104 1 the color change
[For aniline only.]
 Color change: Class 3.5
Flex resistance.
Finished Hide ASTM D 6182-00 1  20,000 cycles - No cracking
[Pigment only.]
(L-C) WHOLE PRODUCT PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Shell Seam
 Top: 25 lbs  Bottom: 30 lbs
Lining Seam:
 20 lbs
Pocket attachment strength
ASTM D 1683
Functional seam strength. Whole Product 1  Functional: 20 lbs
Gap S 1027
 Decorative: 15 lbs
Belt Loop Attachment strength
 Thread Loop : 10 lbs
 General: 20 lbs

Professional leather cleaning:

1 Each
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning. Whole Product Professional Leather Cleaning  Shell: -2% max
Direction
 All linings should be compatible with shell fabric with ± 1%
Professional assessment:
 Color Change: Class 4.0
 Self staining: Class 4.5
General appearance after dry cleaning. Whole Product Professional Leather Cleaning 1
 General Appearance: Satisfactory
Observations:
 Record text comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test light duty snaps (12-16 ligne)
Snaps – snapping/unsnapping. Whole Product ASTM D4846 All  2.0 to 8.0 lbs

117 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(L-C) SPECIAL CLAIM/PURPOSE (ADDITIONAL TESTING REQUESTED DEPENDED ON STYLING)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Corrosion resistance of metal components.  Withstand 24 hours in 1% salt spary(fog) with no major corrosion or visual
Component ASTM B 117 (Modified) 1
[Only if requested.] change.

Peel & shear strength of hook & loop ASTM D 5169-98  Peel = 0.4 lbs/inch
Component 1 Set
fasteners. ASTM D 5170-98  Shear = 10.0 X 5.5 lbs/in2 test at original

ASTM D 2061-03
Zipper performance. Ref: Test
Component ASTM D 2062  Must comply with standards
[Only if requested.] Method
Gap Inc. S1046

(L-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Professional leather clean only.

(L-C) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

 Adult & Kids: 2 pieces/1piece for additional color
 Baby : 4 pieces/2 pieces for additional color

118 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
SOCKS (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (SOCK-A)

(SOCK-A) FIT; DURABILITY; SMALL PARTS; CROCKING

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fit properties. 1 pair each Subjective evaluation on all sizes after wash.
Garment GAP INC. S1043
[After wash only.] size range  Ability to fit NAHM Form

Tagless labels:
 With care instruction: Production – 20 home laundering  Without
care instruction: Production – 10 home laundering
Durability to repeated laundering.
Garment Per care label All Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.
[Tagless labels only.]
 Color Change = Class 3.0;
 Cross Staining = Class 4.0;
 Appearance = no cracking, peeling, etc., text must be legible.
CRE or Chatillon & suitable clamping device (record ultimate failure and nature
All of failure)
Small parts attachment strength. Garment Gap Inc. S1023
components  17 lbs. For 10 sec.

Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2. Check for self-staining
and fading, shade changes between parts must be compatible.
Color change:
 Fabric: Class 3.5
 All Print/Pigment: Class 3.0
Durability to actual laundering. Garment Per Care Label 1 Self-staining:
 Class 4.0
Color Staining:
 Class 3.0 ( Check the color staining to the multiple fabric)
General Assessment:
 Check for surface changes, seam durability, record all observations

119 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints < 6” to ID
problem color.
Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding hi density and puff prints)
 Dry: Class 3.5
1 Dry;
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Garment AATCC 8 / 116  Wet: Class 2.5
1 Wet
Raised surface (including sanded, peached, or emerized), pigment, indigo, sulfur
black, over-dyed fabric, leather, and hi density and puff prints:
 Dry: Class 2.5
 Wet: Class 1.5

(SOCK-A) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach:

Garment Gap Inc. S1003 1
[All except for socks with spandex.]  Class 4.0

Spot test: Sodium Perborate bleach:

Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Garment Gap Inc. S1004 1
 Class 4.0

Xenon-Arc Fade-O-Meter. Run at 10/5 hours, base pass/fail on 10 hours.

Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Colors: Class 3.5
 White/Neon: Class 3.0
Perspi-o-meter
Color change: 
Fabric: Class 3.5 
Colorfastness to perspiration. Garment AATCC 15 1
Prints: Class 3.0
Multi-fiber staining:
 Class 3.0

120 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Perspi-o-meter
Color change: 
Fabric: Class 4.0, 
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). [As Prints: Class 3.5
requested on yarn-dyed and printed Garment AATCC 107 1
Multi-fiber staining:
socks.]
 Class 2.5
Self-staining:
 Class 4.0

(SOCK-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

 General: Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium.
 Cashmere Machine wash cold, tumble dry low.

(SOCK-A) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

 All ages: 6 pairs + 3 additional pair per additional colorway  For flammability:
7 pairs

SOCKS (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (SOCK-C)

(SOCK-C) FIT; DURABILITY; CROCKING

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fit properties. 1 pair each Subjective evaluation on all sizes after wash.
Garment GAP INC. S1043
[After wash only.] size range  Ability to fit NAHM Form

Tagless labels:
 With care instruction: Production – 20 home laundering  Without
care instruction: Production – 10 home laundering
Durability to repeated laundering.
Garment Per care label All Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.
[Tagless labels only.]
 Color Change = Class 3.0;
 Cross Staining = Class 4.0;
 Appearance = no cracking, peeling, etc., text must be legible.

121 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2. Check for self-staining
and fading, shade changes between parts must be compatible.
Color change:
 Fabric: Class 3.5
 All Print/Pigment: Class 3.0
Durability to actual laundering. Garment Per Care Label 1 Self-staining:
 Class 4.0
Color Staining :
 Class 3.0 ( Check the color staining to the multiple fabric)
General Assessment:
 Check for surface changes, seam durability, record all observations
Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints < 6” to ID
problem color.
Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding hi density and puff prints)
 Dry: Class 3.5
1 Dry;
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Garment AATCC 8 / 116  Wet: Class 2.5
1 Wet
Raised surface (including sanded, peached, or emerized), pigment, indigo, sulfur
black, over-dyed fabric, leather, and hi density and puff prints:
 Dry: Class 2.5
 Wet: Class 1.5

(SOCK-C) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach:

Garment Gap Inc. S1003 1
[All except for socks with spandex.]  Class 4.0

Spot test: Sodium Perborate bleach:

Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Garment Gap Inc. S1004 1
 Class 4.0

Xenon-Arc Fade-O-Meter. Run at 10/5 hours, base pass/fail on 10 hours.

Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Colors: Class 3.5

122 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
  White/Neon: Class 3.0

Perspi-o-meter
Color change: 
Fabric: Class 3.5 
Colorfastness to perspiration. Garment AATCC 15 1
Prints: Class 3.0
Multi-fiber staining:
 Class 3.0
Perspi-o-meter
Color change: 
Fabric: Class 4.0, 
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). [As Prints: Class 3.5
requested on yarn-dyed and printed Garment AATCC 107 1
Multi-fiber staining:
socks.]
 Class 2.5
Self-staining:
 Class 4.0

(SOCK-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

 General: Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium.
 Cashmere Machine wash cold, tumble dry low.

(SOCK-C) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

 All ages: 6 pairs + 3 additional pair per additional colorway  For flammability:
7 pairs

TIGHTS (ADULT’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (TIGHT-A)

(TIGHT-A) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; PILLING; DURABILITY; CROCKING

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3-
Garment Per Care Label 1  Must Fit Labeled Size Range
home laundering.

123 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
Pilling resistance. Garment ASTM D 3512 3  Class 2.0

Tagless labels:
 With care instruction: Production – 20 home laundering  Without
care instruction: Production – 10 home laundering
Durability to repeated laundering.
Garment Per care label All Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.
[Tagless labels only.]
 Color Change = Class 3.0;
 Cross Staining = Class 4.0;
 Appearance = no cracking, peeling, etc., text must be legible.
Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2. Check for self-staining
and fading, shade changes between parts must be compatible.
Color change:
 Fabric: Class 3.5
 All Print/Pigment: Class 3.0
Durability to actual laundering. Garment Per Care Label 1 Self-staining:
 Class 4.0
Color Staining :
 Class 3.0 ( Check the color staining to the multiple fabric)
General Assessment:
 Check for surface changes, seam durability, record all observations
Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints < 6” to ID
problem color.
Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding hi density and puff prints)
 Dry: Class 3.5
1 Dry;
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Garment AATCC 8 / 116  Wet: Class 2.5
1 Wet
Raised surface (including sanded, peached, or emerized), pigment, indigo, sulfur
black, over-dyed fabric, leather, and hi density and puff prints:
 Dry: Class 2.5
 Wet: Class 1.5

(TIGHT-A) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER; SMALL PARTS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

124 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach: 
Garment Gap Inc. S1003 1
[All except for tights with spandex.] Class 4.0
Spot test: Sodium Perborate bleach: 
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Garment Gap Inc. S1004 1
Class 4.0
 Xenon-Arc Fade-O-Meter. Run at 10/5 hours, base pass/fail on 10 hours.
Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Colors: Class 3.5
 White/Neon: Class 3.0
Perspi-o-meter Color
change:
 Fabric: Class 3.5
Colorfastness to perspiration. Garment AATCC 15 1
 Prints: Class 3.0
Multi-fiber staining:
 Class 3.0
Perspi-o-meter Color
change:
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). [As  Fabric: Class 4.0,  Prints: Class 3.5 Multi-fiber staining:
requested on yarn-dyed and printed Garment AATCC 107 1  Class 2.5
tights.] Self-staining:
 Class 4.0

 CRE or Chatillon & suitable clamping device (record ultimate failure and
All
Small parts attachment strength. Garment Gap Inc. S1023 nature of failure)
components
 17 lbs. For 10 sec.

(TIGHT-A) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium; or Machine wash cold, tumble dry low or Hand wash, line dry

(TIGHT-A) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

 For all ages: 5 pairs + 3 additional pairs for each additional colorway 
For flammability: 3 pairs for adult or kids, 4 pairs for baby

TIGHTS (CHILDREN’S) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (TIGHT-C)

(TIGHT-C) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY; PILLING; DURABILITY; CROCKING

125 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 3-
Garment Per Care Label 1  Must Fit Labeled Size Range
home laundering.
Pilling resistance. Garment ASTM D 3512 3  Class 2.0
Tagless labels:
 With care instruction: Production – 20 home laundering  Without
care instruction: Production – 10 home laundering
Durability to repeated laundering.
Garment Per care label All Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.
[Tagless labels only.]
 Color Change = Class 3.0;
 Cross Staining = Class 4.0;
 Appearance = no cracking, peeling, etc., text must be legible.
Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2. Check for self-staining
and fading, shade changes between parts must be compatible.
Color change:
 Fabric: Class 3.5
 All Print/Pigment: Class 3.0
Durability to actual laundering. Garment Per Care Label 1 Self-staining:
 Class 4.0
Color Staining :
 Class 3.0 ( Check the color staining to the multiple fabric)
General Assessment:
 Check for surface changes, seam durability, record all observations
Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints < 6” to ID
problem color.
Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding hi density and puff prints)
 Dry: Class 3.5
1 Dry;
Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Garment AATCC 8 / 116  Wet: Class 2.5
1 Wet
Raised surface (including sanded, peached, or emerized), pigment, indigo, sulfur
black, over-dyed fabric, leather, and hi density and puff prints:
 Dry: Class 2.5
 Wet: Class 1.5

(TIGHT-C) C/F TO BLEACH; C/F TO LIGHT; C/F TO PERSPIRE; C/F TO WATER

126 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach: 
Garment Gap Inc. S1003 1
[All except for tights with spandex.] Class 4.0
Spot test: Sodium Perborate bleach: 
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Garment Gap Inc. S1004 1
Class 4.0
 Xenon-Arc Fade-O-Meter. Run at 10/5 hours, base pass/fail on 10 hours.
Colorfastness to light. Garment AATCC 16 Option 3 1  Colors: Class 3.5
 White/Neon: Class 3.0
Perspi-o-meter
Color change:
 Fabric: Class 3.5
Colorfastness to perspiration. Garment AATCC 15 1
 Prints: Class 3.0
Multi-fiber staining:
 Class 3.0
Perspi-o-meter
Color change:
Colorfastness to water (static wetting).  Fabric: Class 4.0,  Prints: Class 3.5 Multi-fiber staining:
[As requested on yarn-dyed and printed Garment AATCC 107 1  Class 2.5
tights.] Self-staining:
 Class 4.0

(TIGHT-C) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium; or Machine wash cold, tumble dry low or Hand wash, line dry

(TIGHT-C) SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

 For all ages: 5 pairs + 3 additional pairs for each additional colorway 
For flammability: 3 pairs for adult or kids, 4 pairs for baby

GAP BODY KNITS – ADULT PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (GB-KNIT)

(GB-KNIT) WEIGHT; CONSTRUCTION; YARN SIZE; PH; TORQUE

127 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Pick Glass; outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings.
ASTM D3776 Washed & Non–Washed regular fabric:
Fabric weight. Fabric & Garment 3
 < 10.0 oz / sq yd & Drop Needle Fabric: +/- 5%
 ≥ 10.0 oz/ sq.yd: +/-3%
Pick Glass; outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings. Both
Fabric Construction. washed and Non-Washed Fabric.
Fabric ASTM D3887 2
(Thread Count/Stitch Density).  < 10.0 oz / sq yd & Drop Needle Fabric: +/- 5%
 ≥ 10.0 oz/ sq.yd: +/-3%
Analytical balance; Outside 10% variation, take 2 more readings
Yarn Size. Fabric ASTM D 1059 2
 +/- 8% maximum
pH meter. All colors tested at fabric stage. Must be tested when additional
colorfastness tests are required. Test at garment stage when is washed program.
Fabric & Garment
 Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 7.0
(Conduct garment
 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
pH Value. stage testing in AATCC 81 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
garment dyed
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5
programs only)
"White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been treated
with an optical brightener. Includes fabrics, which have up to 50% white.
Fabric
Fabric:
 Requirement: 5% (Max)
 AATCC 179 Method 2
Option 3 Garment
Torque. Fabric & Garment 1
Garment:  Manual Measure the side seam displacement, calculate % torque as:
[Displacement / Garment Length from HPS] x 100 
 Manual Measure
Requirement: 5% (Max)

128 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

KNIT) DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Shrinkage, Garment or Fabric Washed Programs
 General: -3.5% x -3.5%
 Rayon (incl Modal & Lyocell): -6.0% x -6.0%
 Other CVS (Poly,Nylon, TC,etc): -2.0% x -2.0%
Shrinkage, Non-Washed Programs
 General: -6% x -6%
 Rayon (incl Modal & Lyocell): -8% x- 8%
Fabric :
Fabric:  Other CVS (Poly/Nylon/TC,etc) : -3.5% x -3.5%
 3 Each
 AATCC 135 Option 2  Others (includes CVC, Fleece/French Terry, Pique/Thermal, Rib, Mesh )-
Dimensional Stability: Direction
Fabric & Garment Garment: 8% x
Shrinkage to 3-Home Laundering. Garment:
 AATCC 150 -8%
 1-Each 
Direction  Warp Knit with Spandex ( including tricot, raschel, lace (non-washed) )
 Synthetics with or without elastics - 3.5% x -3.5%  Cellulosic based
blends without elastic -5.0% x -5.0%
Lining compatible with Shell:
 -1% x -1%
Growth:
 2% x 2.0% maximum
Professional D.C. / Coin op. All linings must be compatible to shrinkage to shell
Fabric: fabric.
 3 Each Shrinkage:
Dimensional Stability: Direction  2% x 2% (max.)
Fabric & Garment AATCC 158
Shrinkage to 1-Dry Clean. Garment: Lining compatible with shell:
 1-Each  1% x 1%
Direction Growth:

129 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

 +0% x +0% maximum

KNIT) GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and products for Japan or EU.
Fabric
 General assessment, before and after laundering & ironing. No obvious
defects/observations affecting the end product performance & appearance.
Garment
 Evaluate the appearance of both outside & inside of the garment before and
after laundering & ironing.
 Report comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
As per Care Label;
 Report any foreign objects or matter (such as tacky or sticky feel on the
AATCC Evaluation inside of a screen print t-shirt or transfer paper left after a heat transfer has
General Appearance:
Procedures 1 and 2. Use been applied), etc, including exactly what was discovered.
After 3-Home Laundering (As per Care) Garment 1
UV Suppressor when
or 1-Dry Clean.  List all observations.
evaluating for Color

Change
 For bra’s please see Table 1 at the end of the protocol for a list of
parameters

Report all observations inclusive of Colorfastness To 3-Home Laundering, rate

with AATCC evaluation test procedures at both Fabric & Garment stages:

 Color Change: 3.5

 Pigment/Print/Indigo: 3.0
 Self Staining: 4.0

130 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

Launder-o-meter. To replicate Hand laundering and Machine Wash Cold

laundering use AATCC61-1A (40°C); To replicate Machine Wash Warm laundering
use AATCC61- 2A (49°C).
Color Change:
 All fabrics: Grade 3.5
Colorfastness To Accelerated  Pigment/Print & Indigo: Grade 3.0
Fabric/Garment AATCC 61 (Modified) 1
Laundering.
(Including linings) Color Staining: 
All: Grade 3.0
Self- Staining:
 Grade 4.0

KNIT) GENERAL APPEARANCE; COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT, NON-CHLORINE BLEACH, CHLORINE BLEACH, & PERSPIRATION

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Launder-o-meter.
Color change:
 Grade 4.0 – all fabrics
Colorfastness To Dry Cleaning. Fabric AATCC 132 1
 Grade 3.0 – all pigment/Print & Indigo
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.5
Spot test: Sodium Perborate Bleach
Colorfastness To Non-Chlorine Bleach. Fabric GAP INC. S1004 1
 Grade 4.0 – all color
Colorfastness To Chlorine Bleach. Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach
[All fabrics except for textiles with Fabric GAP INC. S1003 1 All fabric except Textile with Spandex and functional finishing.
spandex and functional finishes.]  Grade 4.0

131 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

All fabrications. Perspir-o-meter.

Daywear, shape wear, active sports apparel, shirts, and adult sleepwear - check
fabric, straps, bottom band, hook and eye tape, lining (including inner waistband
linings), channeling components / intimates.
Color Change:
Colorfastness To Perspiration. Fabric AATCC 15 1  All Fabrics: Grade 3.5
 Grade 3.0 – all Pigment, Print & Indigo
Color Staining:
 Grade 3.0 (for all)
Self Staining:
 Grade 4.0 (Test at garment stage for color blocked programs only)

KNIT) COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT, CROCKING, & WATER

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter 10/20 hours;

Lining/Pocketing 5/10 hours; Swimwear 10/20 hours.

 Colors: Grade 3.0 @20 hours

 White & Neon: Grade 2.5 @20 hours
Colorfastness To Light. Fabric AATCC 16 Option 3 1
 Intimates: Grade 3.0@ 10 hours
 Swimwear: Grade 3.5 @20 hours
 Lining/Pocketing : Grade 3.0 @10 hours
Pass/fail determination is based on full duration. Report the rating at half time
also.
Use AATCC 8 for solids and large prints and use AATCC 116 for prints < 6" to ID
problem color.
Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding Hi-Density and puff prints):
 Dry: Grade 3.5
AATCC 8 (2005) / AATCC
Colorfastness To Crocking (Dry/Wet). 1 Dry & 1 Wet  Wet: Grade 2.5
Fabric & Garment 116 (prints)
Raised surface (including sanded, peached or emerized), Pigment, Indigo, sulfur
black, over-dyed fabric, and hi-density and puff prints):
 Dry: Grade 3.0
 Wet: Grade 1.5

132 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

. Required on swimwear, outerwear lining fabrics; fabric being used on

colorblocked (multiple fabric) garment only, Yarn Dyed and printed fabrics.
Color change:
 Color - Grade 3.5
 Print/Indigo – Grade 3.0
Colorfastness To Water (Static 
Fabric & Garment AATCC 107 1
Wetting).  Color Staining:
 Grade 3.0 (for all)
Self Staining, for Swimwear, Color-blocked (multiple fabric), yarn-dyed and
printed garments only
 Grade 4.0 (Test at Garment Stage for Color-blocked program only)

133 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-KNIT) COLORFASTNESS TO FUMES, OZONE, POOL WATER, & SEA WATER; BURSTING STRENGTH

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Fume chamber.
Colorfastness To Burnt Gas Fumes. Fabric AATCC 23 1 White Color only - 1 cycle
 Grade 3.5
Indigo Dyed - 2-cycles
Colorfastness To Ozone. Fabric AATCC 109 1
 Grade 3.5
Test on Swimwear only.
Color change: 
Colorfastness To Chlorinated Pool Color - Grade 3.5
Fabric AATCC 162 1
Water.  Print – Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.0
Perspir-o-meter. Test on Swimwear/Beachwear only.
Color change:
 Color - Grade 3.5  Print – Grade 3.0
Colorfastness To Sea Water. Color Staining:
Fabric AATCC 106 1
[Swimwear/beachwear only]  Grade 3.0
Self- staining:
 Grade 4.0

134 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

Mullen Burst Tester. Record all and report a average

General:
 < 4.0 oz / sq yd (135gm/m²): 40 PSI
ASTM D3786 Most Knits:
 ≥ 4.0 oz / sq yd (135gm/m²): 50 PSI
Perform Mullen first, if  5
Special Knit (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, Tricot wider than 2 1/2”):
Bursting Strength. Fabric the fabric doesn’t burst, Lace & Special
 25 PSI
perform the puncture rod Knits
test. Puncture rod test: (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, Tricot less than 2 1/2” in width.
 10
 ≥ 13 lbs
 Rate the lace (Low,moderate,high risk, fail)

KNIT) PILLING; PILE RETENTION; STRETCH AND RECOVERY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Random Tumble Pilling - 30 minutes. Report average.

Regular Finished Fabric:
 Grade 3.0
Special Finished Fabric (Including Sueded, Brushed, Peached finished fabric;
Pilling Resistance. Fabric ASTM D3512 1
Rayon & Rayon Blended Yarns):
 Grade 2.5
Others (Polar Fleece/Sherpa):
 Satisfactory / Unsatisfactory (Use replica to evaluate the test results)
Pile Retention. Fur or Faux Fur garment or trim only. Face and back.
[Knit Velvet, Faux Fur or Fur only] Fabric GAP INC S1029 1
 1.5%

135 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

For Knitted Fabrics having low-power Stretch Properties.

Refers to procedure 7.2 on Laboratory Sampling Unit; Apply 5 lbs load. In
stretch direction only.
< 10% Spandex Content:
Stretch and Recovery.  Growth: 5% maximum
[For non-swimwear & Intimate Knit Fabric ASTM D2594 3  Measure Time Dependent Growth & Recovery using 60 minutes. Report
Textiles with Spandex] both growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on Growth.
≥ 10% Spandex Content:
 Recovery: 85% Minimum
 Measure Instantaneous Growth and Recovery using 60 seconds. Report
both growth and recovery. Pass or Fail based on Recovery.
Gap Inc. S1033
Modification include:
1. Elongate the
specimen to a load of For Knitted Fabrics with highly stretchable (high-power stretch) properties.
10 lbs, 3 cycles
Stretch and Recovery.
2. Calculation of Specifications:
[For Swimwear & Intimates with Fabric 3
Recovery (after 4  Elongation: +/- 10%
Spandex - All Brands]
hours of relaxation  Recovery: 90% min
time)  Modulus (lbf) +/- 25% of mill specs
3. Calculation of load in
pounds force @ 20%,
40% & 60% Elongation

KNIT) SEAM STRETCHABILITY

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

136 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

CRE; Along each seam

All Seams :
 7 lbs or 50% elongation (daywear, shape wear, active sports
apparel)  7 lbs or 35% elongation (other garments)
Side slits:
Seam Stretchability. Garment ASTM D1683 mod. All Seams  10lbs (min)
Shoulder Strap to body:
 ≤ 5.0 oz/yd² - 10.0 lbs  5.0 oz/yd² - 15.0 lbs
Bartack, reinforcement, stress points:
 20.0 lbs

137 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

KNIT) GAP BODY - EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

FIBER CONTENT EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTION
100% Cotton & with blends (cotton brief) Machine wash warm, tumble dry low
Cotton spandex Machine wash cold, tumble dry low
Machine wash cold, tumble dry low,
Synthetic / synthetic with spandex
do not dry clean, do not iron
Hand wash cold, reshape and dry flat,
Wool & with blends (wool chief)
or Dry clean only
Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, tumble
dry low;
Warp Knit (Raschel, Tricot, Lace, Mesh)
or Hand wash, line dry; or
Dry clean only
Hand wash cold, line dry; or Hand
Swimwear
wash, line dry
100% Rayon & with blends / Hand wash cold, line dry;
Rayon with spandex or Dry clean only

ABBREVIATION MEANING
MWW Machine Wash Warm
MWC Machine Wash Cold
HW Hand Wash
HWC Hand Wash Cold
TDL Tumble Dry Low
LD Line Dry
DF Dry Flat
DC Dry Clean
GC Gentle Cycle

KNIT) GAP BODY KNITS - SAMPLE SIZE REQUIREMENTS

1. The sample size requirements assume the required number will be sent in one color. For styles with multiple colors, please send the additional samples as noted per color.
2. Sample size requirements may vary depending on garment construction or type of testing requested.

138 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

3. The vendor is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, representing bulk production, in all styles and all colors purchased, to an approved Testing Laboratory for
evaluation accompanied by the completed appropriated Gap Inc Test Request Form (TRF).

PRODUCT GROUP REQUIREMENTS

Minimum
 3 yards of 1 color; 1 yard for each additional color
Spray Test or Oil Repellency:
Textile Testing
 1 additional yard
Additional Dry Cleaning tests for Banana Republic:
 1 additional yard

Minimum
 4 garments for Adult plus 1 per additional color.

Bras
 Minimum sample size: 6 garments; plus 2 additional per color, Size 34B preferred

Bras in Camisole or full slip

 Minimum sample size: 6 garments; plus 2 additional per color, Size 34B preferred

Garment Testing Panties

 Minimum sample size: 6 pieces; plus 2 per additional color

Swimwear
 6 garments for Adult, 8 garments for Children & Infants; plus 1 garment for each additional color.

Spray Test or Oil Repellency:

 1 additional garment or 2 additional small garments.
Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing:
 1 additional garment

139 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-KNIT) BRA PARAMETERS FOR APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING
No change in fabric appearance * No Wire protrusion/under-wire poke through*

No change in lining appearance* No Rusting, chipping, pitting or corrosion (metal parts)

Color Change: Min 4 (AATCC EP-1) No Change in Elastic appearance*

Pilling: Min 4 (ASTM 3612 Random Pilling) No Fraying or Unraveling

No Migration in filling material Operability of all the hardware attached*

No Change in hand-feel Obvious strength failures of straps*

No Cross-Staining No Cracking or deterioration of printed label*

No Peeling No Glue Marks / Stickiness*

No Curling (pad) No deterioration of fragile trim / sequins / beads

No Orange Peel / Crack Marks (pad)

GAP BODY TRIM PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS AND SPECIFICATIONS (GB-TRIM)

(GB-TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ALL TRIMS (1/1)

See below requirements for sample size by trim type. If any confusion about sample size, contact your local Gap approved laboratory for advice.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

140 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
  No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product
General Appearance After Laundering or
Trim PER CARE LABEL 1 performance/appearance, color change/staining, satisfactory performance
Dry Cleaning (5 HL or 1 DC).
of the components and trims. List all observations.
Dry cleaning cylinder (test on swimwear only)
Colorfastness to chlorinated pool water.  Color change : 3.5
Trim AATCC 162 All
[If applicable]  Color Staining: 3.0
 Self Staining:4.0
Perspir-o-meter (test on swimwear only)
Colorfastness to sea water.  Color change : 3.5
Trim AATCC 106 All
[If applicable, swimwear/beachwear only]  Color Staining: 3.0
 Self Staining:4.0

141 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM) APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES (1/2)
Minimum sample size for ELASTICS: 5 yards plus 3 additional yards per additional color. | Minimum sample size for WOVEN LABEL: 50 labels. Mount all specimens on report. | Minimum sample size
for TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, & WEBBING: 3 yards plus 1.5 yards per additional color. | Minimum sample size for APPLIQUÉ, EMBROIDERY, & PATCHES: 30 pieces per color plus 2 production
quality samples with factory applied transfers/components. For paper transferred flock, submit 2 square feet of sample per color plus 2 production quality samples with factory applied paper
transferred flock.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Dimensional stability: shrinkage to 5-home
Trim AATCC 135 1  5% maximum change in length only
laundering.
Non-functional trim
 15 lbs
Tensile strength. Trim ASTM D5034 3
Functional Trim
 40 lbs

 Recovery: 85% minimum

 Modulus +/- 25%
 Elongation
 Spec’d elastic < 100%:(+/- 10 pts)
 Spec’d elastic ≥100:(+/- 10%)

Gap Inc. S1031-2008 (ref to
Stretch and Recovery (Elastics only). Trim/Garment 3 Apply specified load to the width of elastics
LTD 06)
Width 3 cycles load of
1mm to 15 mm 3.3 lbs
16mm to 50 mm 9.35 lbs
Over 50 mm 16.5 lbs

 Record modulus at 20, 40, 60 and 80% elongation

142 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Model C:
 25 PSI minimum
If no burst in Model C, apply the puncture rod for reporting the rupture of lace
Bursting strength. Trim ASTM D3787 5
Puncture rod test: (Lace, Mesh, Raschel, Tricot less than 2 1/2” in width.
 ≥ 13 lbs
 Rate the lace (Low,moderate,high risk, fail)

143 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)

APPLICABLE TO ELASTICS, WOVEN LABEL, TAPING, DRAWSTRING, CORD, WEBBING, TEXTILE APPLIQUÉ/ EMBROIDERY/ PATCHES

144 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)
Below is in addition to

145 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)

APPLICABLE TO SNAPS, EYELETS, AND RIVETS

Below is in addition to the testing for all trim types. Components must be submitted attached to bulk fabric in the same manner as in production. Minimum sample size of 72 per color plus 72 sets of
applied snaps.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
 Withstand 24 hours in 1% salt spray (fog) with no major corrosion or visual
Resistance to corrosion.
Trim ASTM B117 (Modified) 1 change.
[Metal components only]
 Modification = 1% salt (fog) spray.
Attachment Strength (Snaps) Trim /
[Performance for Adult Only] Garment ASTM D 7142, option 2 All  17.0 lbs Minimum for 10 seconds

Snapping / Unsnapping Force (Light duty

Trim /  Minimum: 2.0 lbs
snap only) BV S 1045 2
Garment  Maximum: 8.0 lbs
[Performance for Adult Only]

146 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)
Below is in addition to
APPLICABLE TO BUTTONS & BEADS
the testing for all trim types. Submit 3 dozen of each color/ size. Buttons must be submitted attached to bulk fabric in the same manner as in production.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sublimation. BV S 1056 (EMSIG method) Color Staining: 
[Dyed buttons] Trim 30 sec 3 Grade 4.5

Mold Count. Bacteriological analytical

[Wooden trim only] Trim method 1  ≤1000 CFU

Moisture Content.
Trim Oven Dry Method 1  8-12%
[Wooden trim only]
Attachment Strength Trim /
BV S-1023 All  15 lbs Minimum for 10 seconds
[Performance test for Adult Only] Garment

Button Impact Resistance (32 mm height) All

Trim ASTM D 5171  No fractures, cracks or chipping. Maximum 10 % breakage allowed.
[Performance test for Adult Only] (garment)

CRE; insert break strength / Record all readings / Report highest, lowest and
average. Pass or fail should be based on lowest result.
Requirement by Ligne Size (Light duty, e.g. plastic and natural):
 <20: 17.0 lbs.
 20 to 25: 20.0 lbs.
Button Center Strength  26 to 36: 25.0 lbs.  >37: 30.0 lbs.
Trim BS 4162 Sec. 4.0 mod. 15
[Performance for Adults] Ligne Size: (Heavy Duty, e.g. metal & die cast) 
<20: 30.0 lbs.
 20 to 25: 35.0 lbs.
 26 to 36: 40.0 lbs.
 >37: 45.0 lbs.

147 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)
Below is in addition to
BUCKLE, HASP & SLIDER, HOOK & EYE
the testing for all trim types. Minimum sample size of 40. Mount specimens on report.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

 Withstand 24 hours in 1% salt spray (fog) with no major corrosion or visual
Resistance to corrosion.
Trim ASTM B117 (modified) 1 change.
[Metal components only.]
 Modification = 1% salt (fog) spray.
 15 lbs
Hook pull out strength. Trim ASTM D1683 (modified) 1  Modification: Expanded scope to cover component

 30 lbs
Hook and eye tension. Trim ASTM D1683 (modified) 1
 Modification: Expanded scope to cover component
 Metal buckle – 40 lbs
Lateral tension strength. Trim Gap Inc S1011 3  Plastic buckle – 25 lbs
 D-Rings and Suspender clip - 75.0 lbs

CRE; Record all readings, Report highest / lowest / average;

Pull test (Rings and Sliders)
Trim /  Plastic Rings and Sliders: min 20 lbs (pass or fail should be based on the
[Performance test for Adult Only] GAP INC. S1011 10
Garment lowest result, not the average)
 All other Rings and Sliders: min 40 lbs., average

148 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)
Below is in addition to
ZIPPERS
the testing for all trim types. Minimum sample size: 35, plus an additional 10 for each additional color. Add 30 more samples if heavy metal testing is needed. See end of
TRIM section for specification chart “#zipper 4000” referenced in these tables.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Open / close strength
Zipper operability. Trim ASTM D2062 5  Should follow the test requirement as per #zipper 4000
 Shall not be accessible without two actions to operate

Slider lock hold. Trim ASTM D2061 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.

Single element strength. Trim ASTM D 2061 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.

Chain crosswise strength. Trim ASTM D2061 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.

Top Stop Strength ASTM D2061

Trim 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000.
[Performance for Adult Only] Section 22.2
Bottom Stop Pull Off
Trim ASTM D2061 5  Should follow the test requirements as per #zipper 4000
[Performance for Adult Only]
Zipper Tab Pull-Off Strength (90°) ASTM D2061  CRE; Record all readings, Report highest / lowest / average.
Trim 5
[Performance for Adult Only] Section 68.1  Should follow the test requirement as per #zipper 4000
Zipper Tab Twist-Off Strength –
 CRE; Record all readings, Report highest / lowest / average.
Zipper Tab Twist Method Trim GAP INC. S1046 5
 Should follow the test requirement as per #zipper 4000
[Performance for Adult Only]

(GB-TRIM) GARMENT SIZE STICKERS

Minimum sample size: 6 stickers with fabric/garment.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

149 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)

48 hours @ 95% rh and 140°F

(3) fabric specimens  No adverse effects or visual change
Effects of extreme heat and humidity. Trim GAP Inc S-1044
with stickers for 48 hrs.  Report amount of visual and non-visual adhesive residue and changes in
physical appearance of the sticker and fabric substrate.

POMPOMS AND TASSELS (1/2)

Minimum sample size: 20 per color plus 6 per additional color. Mount all test specimens on report.
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION
Launder-o-meter. To replicate machine wash cold use Test 1A. To
replicate machine wash warm use Test 2A. Color Change
 4.0 Rating
Color Staining
Colorfastness to accelerated laundering. Trim AATCC 61 All
 3.0
Self Staining
 4.5

 Wet: Class 2.5

Colorfastness to crocking (dry/wet). Trim AATCC 116 All  Dry: Class 3.5 minimum

Attachment Strength (Whole pompom/ 5 Pieces, 1

Trim / CRE.
tassel) GAP INC. S1023 Pull Per
Garment  Must withstand pull force of 17 lbs. / 10 seconds.
[Performance test for adult only] Piece
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. [All  Spot test: Sodium Hypochlorite bleach
except for pompons and tassels with Trim GAP INC. S1003 All Color change 
spandex.] 4.0
 Spot test: Sodium Perborate bleach
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Trim GAP INC. S1004 All Color change :  4.0

150 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)
Below is in addition to

151 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)

FILL MATERIAL AND PRE-MADE PADS (PERFORM ON ENCASED FILL ONLY)

Minimum sample size: 2 yards of 1 color; 1 yard for each additional color or 12 pads.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Dry Cleaning required on all BR products and all products for EU or Japan
Appearance after laundering or dry markets.
Trim Per care label All
cleaning. Specification:
 No bunching, fusing, tearing; check fiber migration through the fill’s cover.
Fume chamber (Whites and Colors): 1 cycle; Test all colors
Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes. Trim AATCC 23 1 Color change
 3.5
Effect of heat aging. Conditions: 170 F for 6 hours
[Foam Pads Only] Trim GAP INC. S1025 1
 No visual change

(GB-TRIM) HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS

Minimum sample size: 50 per color.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sew one pair of hook and loop on plain muslin. Fasten components before
washing.
After first machine wash and
Lint and grab resistance. Trim 1  Check each component after washing (Machine wash warm, tumble dry
dry clean cycle
medium) and dry cleaning (1 commercial dry cleaning) for detachment
during cleaning and if it gathers lint.
Colorfastness to chlorine bleach. [All Spot test Sodium Hypochlorite bleach
except for pompons and tassels with Trim GAP INC. S1003 All Color change:
spandex.]  4.0
Spot test Sodium Perborate bleach Color
Colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach. Trim GAP INC. S1004 All change:
 4.0
Perspir-o-
Colorfastness to water (static wetting). Trim AATCC 107 All meter Color
change:  3.5

152 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)

FUNCTIONAL HOOKS AND CLASPS-METAL, NYLON COATED METAL AND CLEAR NYLON PLASTIC /RINGS AND SLIDES-METAL/NYLON

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Trim /
Strength Performance LTD 17 3 10 lbs Plastic / 25 lbs Metal
Garment
Manufacturing Quality Trim /Garment Visual ALL No sharp edges or points
Trim /
Pitting Visual ALL No deterioration - Visual Rating
Garment

(GB-TRIM) HOOK AND EYE TAPE

Check when new supplier is used.

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Hook to Eye Pull Out Strength
(NonIntimates) (Hook not Attached) Trim ASTM D1683 (modified) 3  20 lbs. Minimum

Hook to Eye Tension (Non Intimates) Trim ASTM D1683 (modified) 3  35 lbs. Minimum

Bra Hook to Eye Attachment Strength

(Intimates Only) Trim LTD 16 3  20 lbs Minimum for 1 Hook & Eye Bras

Manufacturing Quality Trim /Garment Visual ALL  No sharp edges or points

Pitting Visual ALL  No deterioration - Visual Rating

153 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)

(GB-TRIM) EXPECTED CARE INSTRUCTIONS

For all trims: Machine wash warm, tumble dry medium

ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (1/2)

FASTENER CLASS 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10

Closed Chain Width (in) .125-.180 .125-.180 .180-.310 .180-.310 .310-.390 .320-.500

Tape Width (in) 7/16-9/16 7/16-9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0

Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 14.1

Brass/Nickel 66.0 121.0 132.0 143.0 165.0 165.0

Aluminum 52.8 77.0 77.0 88.0 110.0 110.0

Plastic 52.8 59.4 77.0 77.0 110.0 132.0

CEF 66.0 77.0 132.0 154.0 176.0 220.0

Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 30.3

Brass/Nickel 15.4 19.8 22.0 33.0 48.4 48.4

Aluminum 15.4 15.4 26.4 33.0 48.4 48.4

Plastic 15.4 19.8 26.4 26.4 50.6 50.6

CEF 15.4 17.6 26.4 37.4 44.0 50.6

154 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-TRIM)

Single Element Pull-Off Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 14.2

Brass/Nickel 6.6 12.1 13.2 17.6 24.2 24.2

Aluminum 5.3 7.7 7.7 11.0 16.5 16.5
Plastic 5.3 5.5 9.9 9.9 17.6 19.8

Single Element Slippage (lbf, min) ASTM D2 061; 14.3

Brass/Nickel 5.3 8.8 9.9 9.9 18.7 18.7
Aluminum 5.3 5.5 6.2 9.9 16.5 16.5
Plastic 5.3 7.1 11.0 11.0 15.4 22.0

Slider Lockhold (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 87.1

Brass/Nickel 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4

Aluminum 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Plastic 3.5 5.5 7.7 13.2 13.2 15.4
CEF 4.4 4.4 11.0 13.2 15.4 15.4

Tab Pull-Off Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2 061; 68.1

Brass/Nickel 22.0 22.0 33.0 44.0 66.0 66.0
Aluminum 22.0 22.0 39.6 44.0 66.0 66.0
Plastic 22.0 22.0 39.6 39.6 44.0 66.0
CEF 17.6 17.6 39.6 44.0 55.0 66.0

155 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(GB-

TRIM) ZIPPER SPECIFICATION CHART #4000 (2/2)

FASTENER CLASS 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10

Tab Twist-Off Strength (in-lbs.)-Zipper Tab Twist Method GAP INC. S1046
STANDARD PULL-TAB

Brass/Nickel 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8

Aluminum 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Plastic 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
CEF 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8

DECORATIVE PULL-TAB

Brass/Nickel 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8

Aluminum 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
Plastic 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8
CEF 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 7.8 7.8

Operability (open/close) (lbf, max) ASTM D2 062; 16

Brass/Nickel 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.6 1.8 1.8
Aluminum 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.6 1.8 1.8
Plastic 1.1 1.1 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.0
CEF 1.1 0.9 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.0

Top Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D20 61; 22.2

Brass/Nickel 15.4 19.8 22.0 28.6 39.6 39.6
Aluminum 15.4 17.6 22.0 22.0 22.0 22.0
Plastic 17.6 17.6 22.0 26.4 44.0 44.0
CEF 13.2 13.2 26.4 28.6 50.6 39.6

156 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
Bottom Stop Strength – Stringer separation (lbf, min) ASTM D2 061; 22.5
Brass/Nickel 8.4 17.6 17.6 22.0 33.0 33.0
Aluminum 7.7 12.1 15.4 15.4 22.0 22.0
Plastic 11.0 11.0 19.8 22.0 22.0 22.0
CEF 6.6 8.8 19.8 22.0 55.0 39.6

TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – SCARVES (230)

(230) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR SCARVES

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Fabric Weight ASTM D3776 1
Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Construction/Workmanship Garment Visual 1 As approval sample; no major defects
Material Qualities Garment Visual 1 As approval sample; no major defects
pH meter. All colors tested at garment stage. Must be tested when additional
colorfastness tests are required.
Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 7.0
 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
pH Level Garment AATCC 81(2006) 1  Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5
 "White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been
treated with an optical brightener. Includes fabrics, which have up to 50%
white.
Automatic washer/dryer or dry clean.
Dimensional Stability of Fabric - 3 Washes /1
AATCC 150/158 All  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Dry Clean Garment
Cleaning required on all BR products.
Text comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
Appearance After Laundering/Dry Cleaning Garment Per Care Label 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Cleaning required on all BR products.

No failure after designated washings.

Seam Durability in Laundering/Dry Cleaning Per Care Label All Seams
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.
Garment

157 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Each seam across the seam
Seam Strength (lbs.) - woven Garment ASTM D1683 1
 Refer to woven specifications (Tops) as appropriate to product

CRE record all - report average

Tensile Strength (lbs./in.) - woven Garment ASTM D5034 3 Each Direction
Refer to woven specifications as appropriate to product
CRE (fabrics > 10 oz.) record 5 highest peaks (eliminate 1st) - report average.
Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven ASTM D2261 2 Each Direction Only test if Tensile Strength fails.
Garment
 Refer to woven specifications as appropriate to product

Elmendorf (fabrics <10 oz.)

Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven Garment ASTM D1424 2 Each Direction
 Refer to woven specifications as appropriate to product

Along each seam

Seam Stretchability (lbs.) - knit Garment ASTM D1683 mod 1  Elastic yarns < 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 35.0% elongation
 Elastic yarns > 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 50.0% elongation

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Mullen (lace - 10 readings), record all - report average
Bursting Strength (psi) - knit Garment ASTM D3786 5
 Refer to knits specifications as appropriate to product
IWS 152
Pilling Resistance (Scarves made from sweater Lambs
Wool/Cashmere : Products made from sweater yarns :
yarns only) –
 2 hrs - 7,200 4
Containing 50% or more animal fibers
Garment rev. Others :  Grade 2.5
(excluding silk)*
4 hrs - 14,400 rev.

Random Tumble Pilling - 30 minutes. Report average Sweaters

and products made from sweater yarns :
Pilling Resistance (Scarves made from sweater  Cotton : grade 3.0 (BR) / grade 2.5 (Gap/ON/Outlet)
yarns only) –
ASTM D3512 3  Wool blends/viscose : grade 2.5
All Other Fiber Types (including these scarves
Garment  Synthetic fibers : grade 2.0
that contain less than 50% animal fibers)*
.

Pile Retention (Fur or Faux Fur garment or trim Face and back.
Garment GAP INC. S1029 3
only)  1.5%

158 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering/Dry
Garment Per Care Label 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Cleaning
Cleaning required on all BR products.

Launder-o-meter; To replicate hand laundering use Test 1A; To

AATCC replicate machine laundering use Test 2A.
Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering 1
61(Modified)  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment

Launder-o-meter.
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Garment Cleaning required on all BR products.
Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter;
 Colors: Grade 3.0 @5/10 hours
AATCC 16
Colorfastness to Light Garment 1  Lining/Silk: Grade 3.0 @5 hours
Option 3 (2004)
 White & Neon: Grade 2.5 @10 hours

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Plain surface fabric and all prints (excluding hi density and puff prints)
Use Method 8 for Solid & larger print & use method AATCC 116 for prints
< 6.0 inches to ID problem color General Requirements:
 Dry – 3.5
 Wet – 2.5

Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry/Wet) AATCC 8/116 1 Dry; 1 Wet Raised surface (including sanded, peached, or emerized), pigment, indigo,
Garment sulfur black, over-dyed fabric, leather, and hi density and puff prints
 Dry – 2.5
 Wet – 1.5
For non contract color combinations, 1.5 with additional care “ wash and dry
separately” for adults programs only

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach (All except for  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
GAP INC. S1003 1
scarves with spandex.) Garment
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach GAP INC. S1004 1
Garment
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) AATCC 107 1
Garment

159 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Perspir-o-meter. Check fabric, straps, bottom band, hook and eye tape, lining,
Colorfastness to Perspiration channeling components.
AATCC 15 1
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment

Fume chamber.
Colorfastness To Burnt Gas Fumes Garment AATCC 23 (2005) 1 White Color only - 1 cycle
 Grade 3.5
CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test Light Duty (12-16 Ligne) & Hand-sewn
snap.
Snap - Snapping / Unsnapping Garment ASTM D4846 All  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Snapping / unsnapping
 2.0 lb. min – 8.0 lb. Max
CRE or Chatillon + Suitable clamping device. Record ultimate failure and nature
Button Attachment Strength Garment GAP INC S1023 All of failure.
 Attachment strength: 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds
CRE or SafQ Pulling Tester Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male & female
components) Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
Snaps - Attachment Strength Garment GAP INC SafQ SOP All
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
 Attachment strength: 17.0 lbs. for 10 seconds
CRE or Chatillon. Includes all functional/non-functional trims, including
soft decorative trim items Record ultimate failure and nature of failure 
Small Parts / Button Attachment Strength Garment GAP INC S1023 All
Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Top Stop Attachment Strength of Open End  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment GAP INCS1047 3
Zippers (Open End Zippers Only)

*CHARGEABLE
Revised: June 2006

(230) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

 Minimum sample size: 4 scarves; plus 2 per additional color

 Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing: 1 additional scarf

 Refer to either Knit or Woven Protocols for specifications, as appropriate to product.
160 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(230) CARE INSTRUCTIONS
 Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low; or Hand wash, line-dry; or Dry-Clean only

161 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – GLOVES (231)

(231) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR GLOVES

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Fabric Weight ASTM D3776 1
Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Construction/Workmanship Garment Visual 1 As approval sample; no major defects
Material Qualities Garment Visual 1 As approval sample; no major defects
pH meter. All colors tested at garment stage. Must be tested when additional
colorfastness tests are required. Test at garment stage when is washed
program.
 Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 7.0
pH Level Garment AATCC 81 1  Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5
"White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been treated
with an optical brightener. Includes fabrics, which have up to 50% white.
Automatic washer/dryer or dry clean.
Dimensional Stability of Fabric - 3 Washes /1
AATCC 150/158 All  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Dry Clean Garment
Cleaning required on all BR products.
Text comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
Appearance After Laundering/Dry Cleaning Garment Per Care Label 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Cleaning required on all BR products.

No failure after designated washings.

Seam Durability in Laundering/Dry Cleaning Per Care Label All Seams
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.
Garment

Each seam across the seam

Seam Strength (lbs.) - woven Garment ASTM D1683 1
 Refer to woven specifications (Tops) as appropriate to product

CRE record all - report average

Tensile Strength (lbs./in.) - woven Garment ASTM D5034 3 Each Direction  Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product

162 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 CRE (fabrics > 10 oz.) record 5 highest peaks (eliminate 1st) - report average.
Only test if Tensile Strength fails.
Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven ASTM D2261 2 Each Direction
Garment  Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product

Elmendorf (fabrics <10 oz.)

Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven Garment ASTM D1424 2 Each Direction  Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Along each seam
Seam Stretchability (lbs.) - knit Garment ASTM D1683 mod 1  Elastic yarns < 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 35.0% elongation
 Elastic yarns > 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 50.0% elongation
Mullen (lace - 10 readings), record all - report average
Bursting Strength (psi) - knit Garment ASTM D3786 5  Refer to knits specifications as appropriate to product

IWS 152
Lambs
Pilling Resistance (Scarves made from sweater Wool/Cashmere :
yarns only) –  2 hrs - 7,200 Products made from sweater yarns :
4
Containing 50% or more animal fibers rev.  Grade 2.5
Garment
(excluding silk)* Others :
 4 hrs - 14,400
rev.
Random Tumble Pilling - 30 minutes. Report average Sweaters
and products made from sweater yarns :
Pilling Resistance (Scarves made from sweater  Cotton : grade 3.0 (BR) / grade 2.5 (Gap/ON/Outlet)
yarns only) –
Garment ASTM D3512 3  Wool blends/viscose : grade 2.5
All Other Fiber Types (including these scarves
 Synthetic fibers : grade 2.0
that contain less than 50% animal fibers)*
.

Face and back.

Pile Retention (Fur or Faux Fur garment) Garment GAP INC. S1029 3
 1.5%

Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.

Colorfastness to Actual Laundering/Dry
Garment Per Care Label 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Cleaning
Cleaning required on all BR products.

163 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Launder-o-meter; To replicate hand laundering use Test 1A; To
replicate machine laundering use Test 2A.
Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Garment AATCC 61 1
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

Launder-o-meter.
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning Garment AATCC 132 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Cleaning required on all BR products.
Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter;
AATCC 16  Colors: Grade 3.0 @10/20 hours
Colorfastness to Light Garment 1
Option 3  White & Neon: Grade 2.5 @10 hours

Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints <6” to ID
problem color
Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry/Wet) AATCC 8/116 1 Dry; 1 Wet
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach (All except for  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
GAP INC. S1003 1
gloves with spandex.) Garment
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach GAP INC. S1004 1
Garment
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) AATCC 107 1
Garment
Perspir-o-meter. Check fabric, straps, bottom band, hook and eye tape, lining,
channeling components.
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 1
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment

CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test Light Duty (12-16 Ligne) & Hand-sewn
Snap - Snapping / Unsnapping Garment ASTM D4846 All snap.
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
CRE or Chatillon + suitable clamping device
Button Attachment Strength Garment GAP INC S1023 All  Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
CRE or SafQ Pulling Tester Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male & female
GAP INC SafQ components)
Snaps - Attachment Strength Garment All
SOP  Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

164 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 CRE or Chatillon. Includes all functional/non-functional trims, including soft
decorative trim items
Small Parts Attachment Strength Garment GAP INC. S1023 All
 Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Test should be performed regardless of age range. Report individual findings,
not the average. Results should be marked as pass/fail based on the
Top Stop Attachment Strength of Open End requirements listed in the Universal Specification.
Garment GAP INCS1047 3 Fastener Class 1 - 4:
Zippers (Open End Zippers Only)
 Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

(231) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

 Minimum sample size: 4 gloves; plus 2 per additional color

 Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing: 1 additional scarf

 Refer to either Knit or Woven Protocols for specifications, as appropriate to product.

(231) CARE INSTRUCTIONS

 Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low; or Hand wash, line-dry; or Dry-Clean only

165 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES- HATS (232)

(232) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR HATS (TEXTILE & NON-TEXTILE)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more readings
Fabric Weight ASTM D3776 1
Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Construction/Workmanship Garment Visual 1 As approval sample; no major defects
Material Qualities Garment Visual 1 As approval sample; no major defects
Adjustable Strap Anchoring Strength Garment ASTM D1683 2  Each side of strap.
pH meter. All colors tested at garment stage. Must be tested when additional
colorfastness tests are required.
 Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 7.0
 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
pH Level Garment AATCC 81 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5
"White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has or has not been treated
with an optical brightener. Includes fabrics, which have up to 50% white.
Automatic washer/dryer or dry clean.
Dimensional Stability of Fabric - 3 Washes /1
AATCC 150/158 All  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Dry Clean Garment
Cleaning required on all BR products.
Text comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
Appearance After Laundering/Dry Cleaning Garment Per Care Label 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Cleaning required on all BR products.
No failure after designated washings.
Seam Durability in Laundering/Dry Cleaning Garment Per Care Label All Seams
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.

Each seam across the seam

Seam Strength (lbs.) - woven ASTM D1683 1
Garment  Refer to woven specifications (Tops) as appropriate to product

CRE record all - report average

Tensile Strength (lbs./in.) - woven Garment ASTM D5034 3 Each Direction  Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product

CRE (fabrics > 10 oz.) record 5 highest peaks (eliminate 1st) - report average.
Only test if Tensile Strength fails.
Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven ASTM D2261 2 Each Direction
Garment  Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product

166 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Elmendorf (fabrics <10 oz.)
Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven Garment ASTM D1424 2 Each Direction  Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Along each seam
Seam Stretchability (lbs.) - knit Garment ASTM D1683 mod 1  Elastic yarns < 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 35.0% elongation
 Elastic yarns > 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 50.0% elongation
Mullen (lace - 10 readings), record all - report average
Bursting Strength (psi) - knit Garment ASTM D3786 5  Refer to knits specifications as appropriate to product

IWS 152
Pilling Resistance (Scarves made from sweater Lambs
Wool/Cashmere : Products made from sweater yarns :
yarns only) –
Garment  2 hrs - 7,200 4
Containing 50% or more animal fibers  Grade 2.5
rev. Others :
(excluding silk)*
4 hrs - 14,400 rev.

Random Tumble Pilling - 30 minutes. Report average Sweaters

and products made from sweater yarns :
Pilling Resistance (Scarves made from sweater
 Cotton : grade 3.0 (BR) / grade 2.5 (Gap/ON/Outlet)
yarns only) –
Garment ASTM D3512 3  Wool blends/viscose : grade 2.5
All Other Fiber Types (including these scarves
that contain less than 50% animal fibers)*  Synthetic fibers : grade 2.0
.

Face and back.

Pile Retention (Fur or Faux Fur garment) Garment GAP INC. S1029 3
 1.5%

Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.

Colorfastness to Actual Laundering/Dry
Garment Per Care Label 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Cleaning
Cleaning required on all BR products.
Launder-o-meter; To replicate hand laundering use Test 1A; To
replicate machine laundering use Test 2A.
Colorfastness to Laundering AATCC 61 1
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment

167 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Launder-o-meter.
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Garment Cleaning required on all BR products.
Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter;
 Colors: Grade 3.0 @10/20 hours
AATCC 16  Indigo: Grade 3.0 @10/20 hours
Colorfastness to Light Garment 1
Option 3  Lining: Grade 3.0 @5 hours
 White & Neon: Grade 2.5 @10 hours

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints <6” to ID
problem color
Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry/Wet) AATCC 8/116 1 Dry; 1 Wet
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach (All except for  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
GAP INC. S1003 1
hats with spandex.) Garment
Bacteriological
Mold Count (Straw Hats Only)* Garment 1  < 1000 CFU
Analytical Method
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach GAP INC. S1004 1
Garment
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) AATCC 107 1
Garment
Colorfastness to Ozone Garment AATCC 109 1 Ozoniter: All indigo (Denim/yarn dyed/chambray)- 2 cycles
Perspir-o-meter. Check fabric, straps, bottom band, hook and eye tape, lining,
Colorfastness to Perspiration channeling components.
AATCC 15 1
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product
Garment

CRE or Chatillon push gauge. Only test Light Duty (12-16 Ligne) & Hand-sewn
snap.
Snap - Snapping / Unsnapping Garment ASTM D4846 All
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

CRE or Chatillon + suitable clamping device

 Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
Button Attachment Strength Garment GAP INC S1023 All
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

168 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 CRE or SafQ Pulling Tester Chatillon + suitable clamping device (male &
female components)
GAP INC SafQ
Snaps - Attachment Strength Garment All  Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
SOP
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

CRE or Chatillon. Includes all functional/non-functional trims, including soft

decorative trim items
Small Parts Attachment Strength Garment GAP INC. S1023 All  Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

Test should be performed regardless of age range. Report individual findings,

not the average. Results should be marked as pass/fail based on the
requirements listed in the Universal Specification.
Top Stop Attachment Strength of Open End Fastener Class 1 - 4:
Garment GAP INCS1047 3
Zippers (Open End Zippers Only)
 Record ultimate failure and nature of failure
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

*CHARGEABLE Revised: June 2006

(232) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

 Minimum sample size: 4 hats; plus 2 per additional color

 Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing: 1 additional scarf

 Refer to either Knit or Woven Protocols for specifications, as appropriate to product.

(232) CARE INSTRUCTIONS

 Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low; or Hand wash, line-dry; or Dry-Clean only

169 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

170 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for prints <6” to ID
problem color
Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry/Wet) AATCC 8/116 1 Dry; 1 Wet
Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

Launder-o-meter.
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product Dry
Garment Cleaning required on all BR products.

*CHARGEABLE
Revised: June *

(235) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

 Minimum sample size: 2 ties for adults, 8 ties for infants and children clip-on ties/1yard fabric plus
1 yard per additional color; plus 2 per additional color

(235) CARE INSTRUCTIONS

 Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low; or Hand wash, line-dry; or Dry-Clean only

171 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(236) CLIPS FOR CLIP-ON NECK TIES

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Durability to Laundering* Machine wash / 5  Machine wash warm / Tumble dry medium  Launder 5 clips.
(5 Home Launderings) Tumble dry  Evaluate performance after 5home launderings.
 Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2. Color Change:
 Class 4.0, minimum.
 Note any changes in appearance other than color change or staining in
text format

Durability to Dry Cleaning . Dry Clean 5

(1 Dry Cleaning)  Dry clean 5 clips
 Evaluate after 1 dry cleaning cycle
 Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2. Color Change: 
Class 4.0, minimum.
 Note any changes in appearance other than color change or staining in
text format

Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.

Small Parts Attachment Strength* CRE or Chatilon & Suitable cclaping device (record ultimate failure and nature
Gap Inc. S1023 8
of failure)
Drop Test ASTM F963-03 3
Section 8.7.1  No Hazards (as per Table 5 F963-03)

Clasping Durability Actual use 3

 Adequate For Use/No Failure after repeated use (100 times
cycling:Open/Close)

(236) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

 Minimum sample size: 50. Mount all tested specimens on report.

 Clip-on ties should be sold for ages 12 months and above.

172 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
TEXTILE ACCESSORIES – BIBS (250)

(250) PERFORMANCE PROTOCOLS FOR BIBS (FOR INFANTS UNDER 36 MONTHS)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Sample cutter & balance; Outside 5% variation, take 2 more
Garment readings
Fabric Weight ASTM D3776 1
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
product
Material Qualities Garment Visual 1 As approval sample; no major defects
Garment pH meter. All colors tested at garment stage. Must be
tested when additional colorfastness tests are required.

 Whites (except Nylon and Protein): 5.5 - 7.0

 Nylon and Protein Fibers: 4 –7
pH Level AATCC 81 1
 Sulfur Dyed: 7 – 9
 Others : 5.5 - 8.5
 "White" refers to white colored fabric, whether it has
or has not been treated with an optical brightener.
Includes fabrics, which have up to 50% white.
Automatic washer/dryer or dry clean.
Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
product
Fabric - 3 Washes /1 Dry Clean AATCC 150/158 All
 All linings must show compatible shrinkage to shell
fabric 1%.
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.
Text comments on surface appearance, label legibility, etc.
Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
Appearance After Laundering/Dry Cleaning Per Care Label 1
product
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.

173 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 No failure after designated washings.
Seam Durability in Laundering/Dry Cleaning Per Care Label All Seams
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.
Garment
Each seam across the seam
Seam Strength (lbs.) - woven Garment ASTM D1683 1 Please refer to the below table.

Garment CRE record all - report average

 .Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product
Tensile Strength (lbs./in.) - woven ASTM D5034 3 Each Direction

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

CRE (fabrics > 10 oz.) record 5 highest peaks (eliminate 1st) -
Garment report average. Only test if Tensile Strength fails.
Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven ASTM D2261 2 Each Direction  Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product

Garment Elmendorf (fabrics <10 oz.)

 Refer to wovens specifications as appropriate to product
Tear Strength (lbs.) - woven ASTM D1424 2 Each Direction

Garment
Along each seam
Seam Stretchability (lbs.) - knit ASTM D1683 mod 1  Elastic yarns < 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 35.0% elongation
 Elastic yarns > 5.0% : 7.0 lbs or 50.0% elongation

Bursting Strength (psi) - knit Garment ASTM D3786 5 Mullen (lace - 10 readings), record all - report average
Rate with AATCC evaluation test procedure 1 and/or 2.
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering/Dry Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
Per Care Label 1
Cleaning product
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.
Launder-o-meter; To replicate hand laundering use Test 1A;
To replicate machine laundering use Test 2A.
Colorfastness to Laundering Garment AATCC 61 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
product

174 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 Launder-o-meter.
 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 1
Garment product
Dry Cleaning required on all BR products.
Garment Xenon Arc Fade-o-meter;
AATCC 16  Colors: Grade 3.0 @5/10 hours
Colorfastness to Light 1
Option 3  Lining: Grade 3.0 @5 hours
 White & Neon: Grade 2.5 @10 hours
Use method 8 for solids and large prints; use method 116 for
prints <6” to ID problem color
Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry/Wet) Garment AATCC 8/116 1 Dry; 1 Wet  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
product

 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach (All except for
Garment GAP INC. S1003 1 product
bibs with spandex.)

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Garment GAP INC. S1004 1 product

 Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to

Colorfastness to Water (Static Wetting) Garment AATCC 107 1 product

Garment  Ozoniter: All Indigo (Denim/yarn dyed/chambray)- 2

cycles
Colorfastness to Ozone AATCC 109 1  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
product

 Fume Chamber: White 1 cycle

Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to
AATCC 23 1
Garment product

*CHARGEABLE
Revised: June 2006

175 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(250) MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

 Minimum sample size: 4 Bibs; plus 1 yard per fabric

 Heat Transfer and Fragile Trim Testing: 1 additional scarf

 Refer to either Knit or Woven Protocols for specifications, as appropriate to product.

(250) CARE INSTRUCTIONS

 Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry Low; or Hand wash, line-dry; or Dry-Clean only

176 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
177 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Perspir-o-meter. Check fabric, straps, bottom band, hook and eye tape, lining,
channeling components.
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 1
Garment  Refer to woven or knit specifications as appropriate to product

*CHARGEABLE
Revised: January 2006

MINIMUM SAMPLE SIZE

 Minimum number of samples is dependent on size of screen print.

 The protocol is for use on its own or in conjunction with appropriate full product protocol (i.e garment ,backpack etc)
 Refer to either Knit or Woven Protocols for specifications, as appropriate to product.

178 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
SWEATER YARN - GUIDELINES FOR SAMPLING AND PRODUCTION YARN TESTING (280)
Sampling – test one color way – 100gm of yarn in cone
Bulk – test maximum 3 color ways (Light/Medium/Dark) – 200gm of yarn in cone per each color
Minimum sample size: 1,000 meters of yarn per yarn packages and 1 standard construction knit down

EVALUATION CITATION/METHOD CRITERIA RESULTS BRAND INTRODUCED

Physical Performance

*Fiber Content Report Actual (3% Maximum Tolerance

AATCC 20 / 20A US FTC requirements All Existing
- Blends – FTC)
*Fiber Content
AATCC 20 / 20A Report Actual (0% Tolerance – FTC) US FTC requirements All Existing
-Single Fiber
In Nm and tex, Report actual Or
Yarn Size (Count) ASTM D1907 Industry standard All Fall 09
(+/-5%) if claimed
Report the Average, Lowest/Highest
Yarn Twist (Single/Plied ASTM D1423-02
and SD for single/plied yarn in TPM/TPI Mills’ specification All Fall 09
yarn) ASTM D1422 and twist ratio for the reference)
AWI’s recommendations for wool
Report the Average, Lowest/Highest for
Single Yarn Strength ASTM D2256-97 products, Mill’s specification for All Fall 09
strength (cN) / elongation (%)
other yarn blends
Pilot selected yarns from
Yarn Hairiness ASTM D5647 Report the Average Mill’s specification Selected
Fall 09
Yarn Irregularity –
ASTM D1425 / MTL Pilot selected yarns from
evenness / thick & thin / Singles Mill’s specification Selected
neps Italy T004 Fall 09

Report the Average, Lowest/Highest Pilot selected yarns from

Fiber diameter AATCC 20 / 20A Mill’s specification Selected
and SD Fall 09
Oil Content – for yarns
Pilot selected yarns from
containing 50% or more IWS TM136 Max.:1.5% AWI’s recommendations Selected
wool Fall 09

Wool Tops Report the Average for each tops Pilot selected yarns from
ASTM D1575 Mill’s specification Selected
Mean Fiber Length sample Fall 09

SPECIAL CLAIMS (SPC)

179 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 (SPC) ANTI-MICROBIAL CLAIM
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

A. Width of Clear Zone of Inhibition 1

(measured in millimeters) Fabric/Garment AATCC 147  Original A.
B. Growth of bacterial activity  After 30  Staphylococcus Aureus: ≥ 0 mm
home  Klebsiella Pneumoniae: ≥ 0 mm
launderings B.
 No Growth of Staphylococcus Aureus/ Klebsiella Pneumoniae is
observed directly underneath the tested specimen.

Rating: PASS
Sample Swatch needs to be submitted to the lab in a tightly sealed bag or
aluminum foil to avoid it from getting contaminated.

(SPC) UV PROTECTION CLAIM

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

*UPF (Ultra Violet Protection Factor)
Fabric/Garment AATCC 183 /ASTM D6544 / For USA/Canada/Japan
ASTM D6603 Rating
(USA/Canada/Japan) 1  15-24: Good UV protection
 25-39: Very good UV protection
 >39: Excellent UV Protection

BS EN 13758-1&2 For EU
(EU) Rating
 ≥ 40

US ASTM method can also be used for EU based on voluntary information

provided and the UPF rating should be ≥ 40. Please refer to Chapter 1 for
detailed labelling requirements.

(SPC) DELAMINATION
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

180 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 ASTM D2724/ 3135 AATCC 1
Delamination Resistance (Coated Fabric) Fabric/Garment 124 5 Test all coated fabrics-test all colors
Washes  Fabric Appearance: Pass
 Appearance after Laundering: Pass

(SPC) MOISTURE MANAGEMENT CLAIM

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Water Absorbency Test Fabric/Garment AATCC 79 1  ≤ 5 seconds

Home
Laundering All colors must be tested. Use for fabrics with high absorbency claims.
 Original Report average time of absorption in seconds.
 After 3
 After 30

Vertical Wicking Fabric/Garment GAP INC. S-1045 3 Each  ≥ 7.0 cm after 5 minutes
Direction  ≥15.0 cm after 30 minutes

All colors must be tested.

Report individual results for all specimens in both warp and weft directions.
When one specimen fails in either one of the directions, the overall results
should be marked as “fail”.
Do not report the test result average.

Water Vapor Permeability Fabric/Garment ASTM E 96-95 3 All colors must be tested.
Procedure D Home  ≥ 800 gr/m2/ 24 hours
Laundering
 Original
 After 3
 After 30

181 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(SPC)

(SPC) ABSORBENCY FOR BATHROBES CLAIM

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Total 6
Fabric/Garment ASTM D4772  3 Face Report results. No current requirements.
Absorbency (Textiles used for Bathrobes  3 Back
Only)

( SPC) WATER REPELLEN CY CLAIM

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Spray Test (Rainwear/ Outerwear/ Water Fabric/Garment AATCC 22 1 Outerwear

Repellent: As Claimed) Washes  Original: ISO 90
 Original  Washed (3x) : ISO 70
 After 3
 After 30 Water Repellent Treated Cotton:
 Original: ISO 90
Dry-Clean  Washed (3x): ISO 90
 After 3  Washed (30x): ISO 70

Water Repellent Knits (except sweaters):

 Original: ISO 90
 Washed (3x): ISO 80
 Washed (30x): ISO 70
 Dry Clean (3x): ISO 70

Record all-Report Average.

Water Drop (Water Repellent Knits-except Fabric/Garment DuPont Method 3

sweaters) Washes  Original: 5.0
 Original  Washed (3x): 4.0
 After 3  Washed (30x): 4.0
 After 30  Dry Clean (3x): 4.0

Dry-Clean Record all-Report Average.

 After 3

182 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 WATER RESISTANCE CLAIM
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Rain Test Fabric/Garment AATCC 35 1 <1 gram

(Rainwear & Outerwear: As Claimed)
Impact Penetration 2ft. for 2 minutes record all-report average; All colors
must be tested.

Hydrostatic pressure test (mm. min) Fabric/Garment AATCC 127 1  > 500 mm.min
(Water Resistance)

(SPC) STAIN REPELLENT CLAIM (OIL & WATER REPELLENCY) [1 OF 2]

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Oil Repellency (min.) Fabric/Garment AATCC 118 3 A. For Stain Repellent:

A. Stain Repellent Washes (per  Original: 5.0
B.Stain Repellent Knits (except sweaters): care label)  Washed (3x): 4.0
 Original  Washed (30x): 3.0
 After 3
 After 30 B. For Stain Repellent Knits (except sweaters):
 Original: 5.0
Dry-Clean
 Washed (3x): 4.0
 After 3
 Washed (30x): 3.0
 Dry Clean (3x): 3.0

Per test method, must be performed 2x to constitute 1 reading.

To Claim Stain Repellent, the product needs to pass water and oil repellency.
Report all data points collected.

183 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(SPC)

(SPC) STAIN REPELLENT CLAIM (OIL & WATER REPELLENCY) [2 OF 2]

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Spray Test (Rainwear/ Outerwear/ Water Fabric/Garment AATCC 22 1 Outerwear

Repellent: As Claimed) Washes  Original: ISO 90
 Washed (3x) : ISO 70
 Original
 After 3
 After 30 Water Repellent Treated Cotton:
 Original: ISO 90
 Washed (3x): ISO 90
Dry-Clean  Washed (30x): ISO 70
 After 3
Water Repellent Knits (except sweaters):
 Original: ISO 90
 Washed (3x): ISO 80
 Washed (30x): ISO 70
 Dry Clean (3x): ISO 70

Record all-Report Average.

Water Drop (Water Repellent Knits-except Fabric/Garment DuPont Method 3

sweaters) Washes
 Original
 After 3  Original: 5.0
 After 30  Washed (3x): 4.0
 Washed (30x): 4.0
 Dry Clean (3x): 4.0
Dry-Clean
 After 3 Record all-Report Average.

184 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
 DURABLE PRESS & WRINKLE FREE CLAIMS
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Stoll Flex Abrasion (Wrinkle Resistant: As Fabric/Garment ASTM D3885 2 Each Test only on textiles claimed as Wrinkle Resistant.
Claimed) Direction
 Stoll 1.0 lb.
 Top load weight; 4 lbs. (length and width)

185 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(SPC)

Durable Press (Wrinkle Resistance) (min.) Fabric/Garment AATCC 143 1

For fabric/garments with pre-cure durable laundering Check at:
press resins.   Fabric
After 1  Side
&5 Seam
washes  Inseam
 Pocket
 Zipper

 Washed (1x) 3.5

 Washed (5x) 3.0

186 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(SPC)

FEATHER AND DOWN CLAIMS

TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Content Analysis  IDFB 3 1 As specified (for labeling, follow the USA( ADA) Textile Labeling Guidelines for
 JIS L-1903 6.1 Feather and Down)
 EN 12131

Fill Power  IDFB 10 1  In3/oz. –As per claim

 IDFB 32 Fill material conditioned for 72 hours at 70oF, 65% RH. Finished product must
undergo tumble dry conditioning prior to this 72-hour temperature/humidity
conditioning.

1
Turbidity (Home Textiles Only) IDFB 22  250
1
Oxygen Number IDFB 21  < 10

Air Permeability (Shell, Lining and Baffle Fabric/Garment ASTM D 737 1 Original and after wash
fabric, if present)  ≤5 cfm max record all,
report average
WIND RESISTANCE CLAIM
TEST CATEGORY TEST STAGE METHOD REPS SPECIFICATION

Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics Fabric/Garment ASTM D-737 1  ≤ 10 cfm

Home Frazier Air Permeability tester. All colors must be tested.
lauderings 
Original
 After 3
 After 30

187 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009
(SPC)

Water Vapor Permeability Fabric/Garment ASTM E 96-95 3 All colors must be tested.
Procedure D Home  ≥ 800 gr/m2/ 24 hours
Laundering
 Original
 After 3
 After 30

188 [Click to Return to ToC] Gap Inc. Performance Protocols and Specifications December 18, 2009