Principles of Design

Balance Proportion/Scale Emphasis Rhythm

Introduction
The principles of design are essential to the development and production of clothing used
by individuals and families around the world. Each principle has a specific role in creating an
aesthetically pleasing garment or ensemble. The principles of design consist of: balance,
proportion (also referred to as scale), emphasis, and rhythm. When a garment or ensemble uses
the elements and principles of design to create a visual unity, harmony is achieved. Garments
often integrate more than one principle, while drawing from the elements of design to create a
cohesive look. The following discussion will present background information on each of the
principles of design and applications to clothing design and construction.

Balance
According to Wolfe (2011) balance implies that there is an
equilibrium or uniformity among the parts of a design (p. 205). To achieve
balance, a garment or ensemble should have equal visual weight
throughout the design. The use of structural features, added
embellishments, or decorations to a garment contribute to the
appearance of a garment or ensemble being balanced or not. A
clothing designer can utilize surface designs on fabric to construct a
garment creating visual balance. Further, color, line, and texture can
impact the balance of a design. For example, cool and light colors
have less visual weight than dark, warm colors. If an individual is wearing
a small amount of a dark, warm color it can be balanced out with a
larger amount of cool, light colors.
 Balance used in clothing design can be categorized into two groups: Formal and
Informal Balance. When a garment or ensemble has equal visual weight on either side, or is
symmetrical, formal balanced is achieved. The presence of identical details
placed equal distance from the center, such as pockets, seams, pleats, or
tucks are good examples of how formal balance is used in uniforms, blazers,
blue jeans, and other common garments. Formal balance is the most
common and inexpensive application of the
principles of design (Wolfe, 2011).

To achieve informal balance, a garment is

created using asymmetrical features such as
line, color, shapes, and textures. The most
common use of informal balance is when a
garment is constructed using fabric that has a
diagonal line design or closures that are off-centered such as a
zipper or neckline. Accessories used in an ensemble can create
informal balance that brings interest to a solid color garment.

Proportion/Scale
Proportion is defined by Wolfe (2011) as the spatial, or size
relationship of all parts of a design to each other and the whole
garment or ensemble (p. 206). The design of clothing for the human
body requires unequal parts or garments to
be used. A good illustration of this is a dress.
The bodice of a dress can be smaller than
the portion of the dress that goes from the
waist to the knee, calf, or ankle. In order for
clothing to have visual appeal on the human
body, it is recommended that it flatter the
natural shape of the body of the wearer.
The design details found in clothing can
contribute to the overall proportion of an
ensemble. Details such as yokes, collars, pockets, accessories, buttons,
and trimmings should be in proportion to the overall size of a garment.
The picture to the left shows a woman in sunglasses. When the size of
the sunglasses is relative to the face of the wearer, proportion is
achieved. Some trends encourage the use of oversized sunglasses
which makes the face appear to be visually smaller. Overall, when all of
the parts of a garment or outfit work well together the result is a well
proportioned look.
Emphasis
Emphasis is used to create interest in a garment or to draw
attention to a certain part of an ensemble. When emphasis is used by
an individual or a designer, one feature of the ensemble is visually more
prominent in a design than others. For example, a bright necktie that is
contrasting to the color of a men’s dress shirt draws the eye to the tie
rather than the shirt. Therefore, the eye is drawn to an item of emphasis
first rather than other features in the garment or outfit. Examples of items
used to create emphasis are: a bow, appliqué, a monogram,
accessories, belts, scarves, neckties, jewelry, decorative trimmings, tucks,
gathers, ruffles, and buttons. Color, line, and texture can also be used to
draw attention to parts of the body such as the waist, chest, arms, one
shoulder, etc. (Wolfe, 2011).

Rhythm
Rhythm creates a sense of movement in a design. The eye moves from one feature on
the body to another with the use of this principle. Further, a pattern or texture is created with
the application of rhythm to the surface design of fabrics used in the construction of clothing
items or products. Specific applications of rhythm are classified in the following categories:
Gradation, Opposition, Radical Arrangement, Repetition, and Transition.
Gradation refers to a design pattern that gradually increases
or decreases in size, shape, or color. An example is when designers
use a gradient-dying technique called ombre that uses a gradual
change in color from light to dark across the textile. Opposition is
rhythm that is created with multiple lines converging to form a right
angle. One of the most common uses of this form of rhythm is
found in a plaid shirt or other plaid or check pattern (Wolfe, 2011).
Radial Arrangement is created when a pattern has a central
starting point. Wolfe (2011) suggests that this form of rhythm can
be created with the use of tucks, seams, darts, flowing lines, or
colors that fan out from a central area (p. 210). Tie Dye is an Opposition Rhythm
example of creating a radial arrangement design on fabric using
color. Repetition is when a specific pattern, line, shape, color, or texture is repeated in a
garment. Transition is a technique used to move the eye between different parts of a design at
a more gradual pace rather than an abrupt change in direction (Wolfe, 2011, p. 209). An
example of this would be a continuous line created by a scarf, ruffles, or gathers.
Rhythm in a garment or ensemble is distorted when a surface design, such as a plaid, is
not matched accurately at the seams. When this occurs, the movement of a garment stops at
each seam confusing the rhythm of the look and the overall harmony of the design.
Harmony
Harmony occurs when the overall design, garment, or ensemble achieves visual unity.
Wolfe (2011) asserted that when the elements of design (color, shape, line, and texture) are
used effectively within the parameters of the principles of design (balance, proportion,
emphasis, and rhythm) harmony is created. Another consideration of the designer or individual
when creating or choosing clothing is the shape and form of the body. Harmony cannot be
achieved unless the clothing or dress complements the wearer. All parts of the ensemble need
to work together to achieve the desired look. Whether an ensemble is harmonious or not
depends upon the subjective opinion of the observer.

Conclusion
The principles of design serve as guidelines for applying the elements of design to a
design-related task. Clothing and fabric designers utilize these guidelines in order to achieve a
visually pleasing or harmonious design that the consumers will integrate into their personal
wardrobes. Whether designing clothing or mixing and matching clothing in a personal
wardrobe, the principles of design can be a useful tool to simplify the process of looking one’s
best.

References

Nielson, K.J., & Taylor, D.A. (2011). Interiors: An introduction. New York: McGraw Hill.

Wolfe, M. (2010). Fashion! Tinley Park, IL: Goodheart-Wilcox.

Elizabeth Hale, USU Extension Intern

Joanne Roueche, CFCS, Associate Professor, USU Extension
Lindsey Shirley, PhD, Clothing and Textiles Extension Specialist
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