Fabric science

assignment 1
ON “HEMP” & “BAMBOO”
COHESIVENESS PROPERTY
SUBMITTED TO:
MS. ABOLI NAIK
SUBMITTED BY:
PRACHI (BFT/16/170)
AMRITA (BFT/16/1610)
 HEMP
Hemp is a coarse, long, lustrous bast fibre obtained from inner bark of the hemp plant
(Cannabis sativa), an annual of the family Moraceae found in many parts of the world. This
venerable fibre has always been valued for its strength and durability. Ancient records
describe the use of hemp in China since 2800 B.C. During the early Christian era, production
of hemp spread to countries of Mediterranean Europe, and since then the fibre has come
into widespread use throughout the world. Hemp had been an important industrial fibre for
centuries, but its importance began to decline in the late 1940’s because of competition
from synthetic fibres and regulations’ controlling the production of drugs-hemp is a close
relative of marijuana. Because of comfort and good absorbency, hemp is used for some
apparel and furnishings. In fact, its combination of ruggedness and comfort were utilized by
Levi Strauss as a duck canvas for their first pair of jeans.

Production and Processing: The hemp plant is harvested and processed in a

manner similar to that used for flax. The plants are cut at 2 to 3 cm above the soil and left
on the ground to dry. Fibre is freed from woody matter by water retting whereby the
bundled hemp floats in water or dew retting whereby the hemp remains on the ground and
is affected by the moisture in dew moisture, and by moulds and bacterial action, followed
by breaking and scutching. The fibre is softened by pounding it mechanically or by hand.
Modern processes use steam and machinery to separate the fibre, a process known as
thermo-mechanical pulping.

Structure: Hemp is coarser fibre than flax. It is darker in colour and difficult to bleach.
Like flax, the cells of hemp fibre are thick-walled, they are polygonal in cross-section. The
central canal or lumen is broader than that of flax, however at the ends of the cells are
blunt. Strands of hemp can be 2m (6 ft.) in length. The individual cells, are on average, 13-
26mm (1/2-1 in) long. They are cylindrical in shape, with joints, cracks, swellings, and other
irregularities in the surface. The hemp fibre is more lignified than flax, and is consequently
stiffer.

Properties:
Length: The strand length varies from 4 to 10 ft. The mean diameter is 17µ.

Colour: The colour of the fibre may be naturally creamy white, brown, grey, almost black
or green.

Strength: Hemp fibre is one of the strongest and most durable of all natural textile fibres.
Products made from hemp will outlast their competition by many years. Not only is hemp
strong, but it also holds its shape, stretching less than any other natural fibre.
Density and Tenacity: Density of the fibre is 1.45g/cm3. Tenacity of fibre is 5.8 to 6.8
g/d.

Lustre: Hemp fibre have an attractive lustre similar to that of flax.

Elasticity: Elasticity of the fibre is low but it can be treated to improve.

Heat Conductivity: The heat conductivity of hemp fibre is high. The porous nature allows
hemp to “breathe”, so that it is cool in warm weather. Furthermore, air which is trapped in
the fibre is warmed by the body, making hemp garments naturally warm in cooler weather.

Absorbency: Due to the porous nature of the fibre, hemp is more water absorbent.

Cleanliness and Washability: Hemp is resistant to rotting when exposed to water. It

can be machine washed and dried.

Reaction to Bleaches: Hemp fibre is difficult to bleach and when bleached will weaken.
It is to be used with care.

Reaction to Heat: Hemp fibres will scorch and burn.

Effect of mildew: Hemp fibre is highly resistant to mildew.

Effect of Sunlight: Hemp is naturally resistant to mold and ultraviolet light. This prevents
the garment from deterioration.

Reaction to Alkalis: Hot concentrated alkalis dissolve hemp whereas cold concentrated
alkalis don’t. Alkalis and dilute alkalis don’t damage it.

Reaction to Acids: Acids reduce the strength and eventually destroy it. Cool dilute
mineral acid do not harm the fibre, but hot dilute acids and concentrated acids harm the
fibre.

Affinity to dyes: Hemp is very largely used in its natural state. Basic dyestuffs provide
bright shades, the fibre being mordanted with antimony and tannin.

Environment Friendly: Hemp is environmental friendly. It resists weeds and requires

little application of pesticides and insecticides or agro chemicals. Large root system aerates
the soil it grows in. Hemp does not exhaust the soil. Hemp plants shed their leaves all
through the growing season; adding rich organic matter to the topsoil and helping it retain
moisture.

Uses: Hemp can be used in 25,000 different products, from clothing to food to toiletries.
Until the nineteenth century, hemp was used in 90% of ships' canvas sails, rigging, and nets.
The plant produces three types of fibres. The bast fibres from the outer region of the stalk
are the longest and finest. These fibres are most often used in 100 per cent hemp and blend
fabrics with cotton, linen, or silk for apparel and furnishings. The inner two fibres are shorter
and most often used in nonwovens and other industrial applications. The innermost woody
core fibres are used for mulch and pet and animal bedding.

Today, hemp fibre is being used as a replacement for fiberglass in automotive components
and made into cloth for window dressings, shower curtains, and upholstery. Also used for
coarser products such as strong twine and other cordage, fish nets, cordage and better
quality of burlap. It is also used in rug and carpet manufacturing.

Leading producers of Hemp: Leading producers of hemp are the Soviet

Union, Yugoslavia, Romania, Hungary, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Thailand, Switzerland, Turkey
and Ukraine.

Manufacturers of Hemp Fabrics:

 Bombay Hemp Company (BOHECO)
 Indian Industrial Hemp Association (IIHA)
 Be Hemp India
 Uniform Express, Mumbai
 Amratlal Dhirajlal& Company
 Siddhshila export Fabrics, Delhi
 Bhupendra Textiles

Brand Names for Hemp Clothing

Boho Hemp, The Hemp Couture, Hemptique, Hempy’s, Hemp Clothing, Brain Tree, Eileen
fisher, Rawganique, Paramshuddha
Global and Indian Market for Hemp:
The hemp and cannabis markets span across almost all sectors and industries; building
materials, human and animal food, textiles, energy, industrial materials, medicine and
more.Internationally, hemp production is estimated to be around 0.1 million tonnes
annually.It is estimated that the United States imports 60% of hemp produced worldwide,
which would indicate that the global hemp market is well over $800 million. More than 30
industrialized nations already produce legal hemp, with China being the number one
producer and Canada number two. For over half a century now, Indian hemp or cannabis
has been outlawed in India because of the intoxicating substances contained in the plant's
flowers and resin. Legalising the plant could create an industrial hemp textile market in India
that could be worth Rs 240 million. BOHECO and IIHA are some of the Indian companies
which have been encouraging production of hemp fabric and lobbying the textile ministry to
create a regulatory framework for industrial hemp cultivation and draft an industrial hemp
policy.
 Bamboo
Bamboo fibre is a regenerated cellulose fibre, which is produced from bamboo pulp,
processed from bamboo culms. Bamboo fabric has been growing in popularity because it
has many unique properties and is more sustainable than most textile fibres. It looks like
cotton in its un-spun form. Bamboo fibre is light and strong, has excellent wicking
properties, and is to some extent antibacterial. The use of bamboo fibre for clothing was a
20th century development, pioneered by several Chinese corporations. In recent years a
range of technologies have been developed allowing bamboo fibres to be used in a wide
range of textile and fashion application. Bamboo textiles are cloth, yarn, and clothing made
out of bamboo fibres while historically use only for structural elements, such as bustles and
the ribs of corsets. Modern bamboo clothing is made from either 100% bamboo yarn or a
blend of a bamboo and a cotton yarn. The bamboo yarn can also be blended with other
textiles fibres such as hemp or even spandex.

Processing of Bamboo Fibre:

Two types of processing are done to obtain bamboo fibres- Mechanical Processing and
Chemical Processing. However, in both the processes, the raw bamboo has to be split to get
bamboo strips. After that, bamboo fibre is extracted either through chemical or mechanical
processing.
Chemical Processing: It is basically hydrolysis alkalization. The crushed bamboo is "cooked"
with the help of Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) which is also known as caustic soda or lye into a
form of regenerated cellulose fibre. Hydrolysis alkalization is then done through carbon
disulphide combined with multi-phase bleaching. Although chemical processing is not
environmental friendly but it is preferred by many manufacturers as it is a less time
consuming process.
Mechanical Processing: In this method, the crushed bamboo is treated with biological
enzymes. This breaks the bamboo into a mushy mass and individual fibres are then combed
out. Although expensive, this process is eco-friendly.

Properties of Bamboo Fibre: Bamboo fibre has a thinness degree and

whiteness degree close to normal finely bleached viscose and has a strong durability,
stability and tenacity. It stands abrasion and possesses the qualities that make it perfect to
spin. The yarn and cloth made by bamboo fibre are labelled first-class quality in all aspects
of quality standards. Bamboo fibre is naturally anti-bacterial, UV protective, green &
biodegradable, breathable & cool, strong, flexible, soft and has a luxurious shiny
appearance.
Texture: Bamboo fibre can be softer than even silk fibre when spun into yarn. It has a basic
round surface which makes it very smooth and to sit perfectly next to the skin. It is softer
than cotton, with a texture similar to a blend of cashmere and silk.
Lustre: Bamboo fibre has a luxurious shiny appearance.

Durability: Bamboo is extremely resilient and durable as a fibre. Comparing it with cotton
and polyester, it is found to have a high breaking capacity.

Absorption Ability: Bamboo fibre absorbs and evaporates sweat very quickly. Because
the cross-section of the fibre is filled with various micro-gaps and micro-holes, it has much
better moisture absorption and ventilation. Moisture absorbency is twice than that of
cotton with extraordinary soil release. Its ultimate breathability keeps the wearer
comfortable and dry for a very longer period. It is 3-4 times more absorbent than cotton
fabrics.
Temperature Adaptability: Fabrics made from bamboo fibre are highly breathable in
hot weather and also keep the wearer warmer in cold season. Bamboo is naturally cool to
the touch. The cross-section of the bamboo fibre is filled with various micro-gaps and micro-
holes leading to much better moisture absorption and ventilation. It is also very warm in
cold weather, because of the same micro structure as the warm air gets trapped next to the
skin.
Antibacterial: Bamboo is naturally antibacterial, antifungal and anti-static. Bamboo has a
unique anti-bacteria and bacteriostatic bio-agent named "bamboo Kun" which bonds tightly
with bamboo cellulose molecules during the normal process of bamboo fibre growth. This
feature gets retained in bamboo fabrics too. This makes bamboo fabrics healthier, germ free
and odour free.

Environment friendly: Bamboo is also very sustainable to grow as it does not require the
use of pesticides and grows very quickly in favourable conditions. Bamboo fibre may have
an anti-bacterial property that is maintained in fabric, meaning that bamboo fabric does not
require the use of chemical antibacterial agents. Bamboo fibre is bio degradable in soil by
microorganisms and sunlight. Having reached the end of its useful life, clothing made from
bamboo can be composted and disposed of in an organic and environmentally friendly
manner.

Hypoallergenic: Bamboo clothing has a luxuriously soft fabric that is naturally

hypoallergenic, moisture- absorbent and quick drying. The fiber is naturally smooth and
round without chemical treatment, meaning that there are no sharp spurs to irritate the
skin.

Elasticity: Bamboo fibres show a great elasticity i.e. nearly 20%.

Affinity to Dyes: Bamboo fabrics need less dyestuff than cotton, modal or viscose. The
absorption of dyestuffs is remarkably better. Bamboo absorbs the dyestuffs faster and
shows the colours better.
Effect of Sunlight: Anti-ultraviolet nature of bamboo fibre has made it suitable for
summer clothing, especially for the protection of pregnant ladies and children from the
effect of ultraviolet radiation.
Applications of Bamboo Fibre:
After gaining popularity as a green fibre, bamboo has found place in significant fashion
circles. So it is used for making different kinds of apparels and home furnishings.
Bamboo Clothing:
The inherent anti-fungal and antibacterial properties of bamboo fabrics
make it suitable for such clothing as underwear’s, t-shirts, socks. It is
especially preferred for making summer clothing as it gives protection
against UV rays and for being naturally cool. The softness, sheen and
drapabaility of bamboo fabric make it suitable for fashion clothing and fashion accessories
as scarves. As it has good absorption and is breathable, it can be used in making any type of
garments especially like sportswear and inner wears. In fact, some manufacturers use a
blend of 4% Lycra with bamboo to make sportswear. The softness of bamboo fibre also
makes it ideal for making infant wear.
Home Furnishings Fabrics:
Bamboo fabric has also come to occupy important place in manufacturing of home
furnishings due its many qualities including, softness, strength, & durability among others. It
is used in making cushion covers, curtains, beddings and pillow, etc. Wallpapers and curtains
made from bamboo fibre can absorb ultraviolet radiation very well. Upholstery fabrics are
usually made with bamboo blends.
Bathroom Textiles:
Bamboo fabric is increasingly being used in making bathroom furnishings. Bamboo bath
towels and bath robes have soft and comfortable feel and excellent moisture absorption
capability. The natural antibiotic property provides hygienic conditions as well as prevents
bad odour. They are also suitable for making bath mats due to good absorbency.

Non-woven fabrics:
Bamboo pulp is also used for making non-woven fabrics that are then used in making
hygiene products such as sanitary napkin, masks, mattresses, absorbent pads, food-packing
bags. Again, they are preferred for such products due to anti-bacteria and absorption
properties.
Medical and Hygienic Clothing & Products: Apart from nonwoven, bamboo fabric
itself is also used in the production of such items as textiles for surgical practices including
masks, bandage, gowns etc. apart from linens, towels sand drapes in hospitals.

Manufacturers of Bamboo Fabrics:

 TATREEZ INDIA PVT LTD
 Bamboo Technologies
 Centre for Indian Bamboo Resource & Technology
 Swan Tools and Handicrafts Pvt. Ltd.
 RAJPUT BAMBOO PRODUCTS
Brands for bamboo Clothing: Tanboocel, Bhusattva, BAM (Bamboo Clothing),
Bambrotex

COHESIVENESS
Cohesiveness is the ability of the fibre to cling together during spinning. It may also be
termed as the spinning quality of fibre. It is the property of an individual fibre by virtue of
which the fibres hold on to one another when the fibres are spun into yarn.

Natural Fibres- Linen: The short staple flax fibres are used for the spinning of irregular
linen yarns.

Wool: The woollen yarns are short staple and slack twisted whereas worsted yarns are long
staple and tightly twisted.

Silk: Spun silk fabric tends to become fuzzy after wearing because the yarn is made of short
staple.

Man-made fibres- Nylon: The nylon staple fibre is usually crimped and spun on a cotton
system.

Polyester: In polyester fibre crimp may be developed to achieve crepe effects. Polyester
fibre has a resistance to ravelling.

Acrylic: Acrylic fibre is crimped.

Spandex: Spandex is blended with other yarn to produce sufficient elasticity and holding
power for woven and knitted fibres.

REFERENCE

1. Textiles Fibre To Fabric By Corbman

2. Textiles By Kadolph S J
3. Understanding Textiles by Tortora P.G.
4. Handbook of Textile Fibres Vol I- Natural fibres by J. Gordon Cook
5. Fabric Science by Price C J
6. Textile Science by Hudson P B and Clapp A C
7. Dictionary of Textiles by Tortora Merkels